The morning very cold indeed. Inasmuch as there is little grass for the
cattle, the camp started out at 5:40 and traveled till a quarter after
eight, six miles before breakfast. Soon after we started this morning
three buffalo were seen grazing on the bluff about six miles distance.
I could see them very plain with my glass. O. P. Rockwell, Thomas
Brown and Luke Johnson started on horseback to try to kill some. Soon
after they went, another herd of buffalo were seen to the northwest at
the foot of the bluffs about eight miles off. I counted with my glass,
72, and Orson Pratt counted 74. Three of the brethren went on their
horses after the latter herd. I watched the movement with the glass
and saw that sometime before the brethren got to them, the buffalo
fled and were soon after out of sight. We stopped for breakfast close
to Grand Island and at 10:15 proceeded again. After traveling four
miles we arrived at a small lake on our right at twelve o'clock which
evidently connects with the river in high water. A little previous to
this time the hunters returned and reported that Luke Johnson shot at
one and dropped him on his knees, but he got up again and ran after the
herd. They did not get any, but saw more farther west and went to give
chase to the latter herd. When they got near them, they turned down
under the bluffs and joined the herd chased by the last hunting party.
Luke lost his cap and could not find it again. Brother Higbee said he
could have shot one, but Woolsey told him to hold on and pick out a
good one. They being pretty near, selected a cow and designed both to
shoot at her, but while they were making their plans the herd started
and they missed their chance. About the time the hunters returned,
another still larger herd was discovered still farther west, also at
the foot of the bluffs. The President stopped near the above mentioned
lake and selected eleven men to go and give chase to the last seen
herd and he gave them their instructions. Although they were at least
eight miles from us, I distinctly counted 101 with my glass and amongst
them many calves. This being the first day buffalo has been seen on
our journey and in fact the first ever seen by any except about five
or six of the brethren, it excited considerable interest and pleasure
in the breasts of the brethren, and as may be guessed, the teams moved
slowly and frequently stopped to watch their movement. When the hunters
were within a mile or two from the herd, two of the dogs gave chase
to an antelope, which made directly towards the buffalo. One of the
dogs chased it till it went into the midst of the herd and when the
buffalo saw the dog, they commenced to canter into a closer huddle.
The dog, however, evidently frightened with their savage appearance,
stopped and retraced his steps. About this time Elder Kimball seemed to
get inspired with the idea of chasing the buffalo and he immediately
called for Egan's fifteen shooter and started with it on full gallop.
After the dog returned the buffalo did not move much from the place
and the hunters moved gently along till they got pretty near them, at
which time Heber joined, just as the herd discovered them and commenced
galloping off. The brethren's feelings who were left with the wagons
were now strung up to the highest pitch, a feeling of exciting interest
appeared to prevail throughout the camp, they having heard and read
so much of the mad ferocity of the buffalo when hotly pursued, and
knowing that all the hunters were inexperienced in regard to hunting
the wild buffalo. While they felt for the safety of the hunters, they
still desired to see as much of the chase as the distance would allow,
and were wishful that the chase might be successful as a number have
no meat and a piece of fresh meat would taste good to all men and save
our bread stuff, and the desire to taste the much famed buffalo meat
created a longing desire to see some of the herd fall. Soon as the herd
commenced galloping off, the hunters followed in pursuit at full gallop
and soon closed in with them. At this time I got my glass and rested
it on Brother Aaron Farr's shoulder, determined to see as much of the
chase as possible. I soon discovered O. P. Rockwell ride into
the midst of the herd which then appeared to number over 200, others
having come in sight when the herd commenced to run. Porter was soon
enveloped in the cloud of dust caused by the heavy tramp of the buffalo
on the dry sandy ground, but in a very short time the herd began to
separate and scatter in every direction, a small party coming down
the bluff again and some running west under the bluffs, others going
over. The hunters closed in on the first party and commenced their
fire, especially at one cow which they finally succeeded in separating
from all the rest, and determined to keep to her until they killed
her, except Porter, who as soon as he had wounded her, left her with
the hunters and pursued some of the rest. The cow was now in close
quarters and after she had been shot through two or three times, Elder
Kimball rode close to her with his fifteen shooter and fired over his
horse's head, she dropped helpless and was soon dispatched. At the
report of the gun which was very heavy loaded, Elder Kimball's horse
sprang and flew down the bluff like lightning and he having let go the
lines to shoot, her sudden motion overbalanced him and his situation
was precarious to the extreme. The other hunters saw his situation and
trembled for his safety but could render him no assistance. However,
being a good horseman, he maintained his position in the saddle and
soon succeeded in gaining the lines and by a vigorous effort succeeded
after some time in reining in his horse and returned to the rest
unharmed and without accident. All this movement passed about as quick
as thought, and as soon as they saw the cow dead and all right they
again followed in pursuit of the remaining buffalo. About this time
three of the herd separated from the rest and came in a direction
towards the camp on a gallop. President Young seeing this, ordered a
halt, and the wagons to get close together lest the buffalo should,
in their fury and excitement, venture to go between the wagons and do
much mischief. However, they were discovered by some of the hunters
nearer the camp and some foot men who gave chase to them changed their
course when within about a mile from the camp. At this time I had a
very good view of their shape, color and appearance when running which
I shall endeavor to describe hereafter. Elder Kimball arrived in time
to aid in the chase of these three which lasted some time. The hunters
made choice of a large and very furious bull, and worked with him
some time, shooting him through several times but all this did not
seem to impede his progress. O. P. Rockwell said he had heard it
said that a buffalo could not be hurt with a ball shot at his head.
Having a fair chance with this one, he determined to satisfy himself,
and (previous to his being wounded) gaining a little in advance came
right in front within about a rod of him and discharged his rifle
pistol which struck the center of his head, but with no other effect
than to make it smoke a little, some dust fly and the raving animal
shake savagely. The brethren, John S. Higbee and John Pack, soon after
succeeded in dropping him and laid him dead at their feet, John Pack
being the one that dropped him. During all this, other scenes were
passing of equal interest. One of the calves was discovered within a
few rods of the wagons, a shot fired at it and it was soon caught by
the dogs, killed and put into a feed box. Porter chased another calf
to within a mile of the camp previous to his chasing the bull. Some
of the footmen surrounded and dispatched it, and soon after brought
and put it in one of the wagons. Other brethren were still away at the
bluffs, but we had no certainty of their success until Elder Kimball,
John Pack, and several others came up to the camp after dispatching
the bull and reported two other cows killed and three calves. This
was a little before 5:00 p.m. When it was ascertained for a certainty
that one was killed, the revenue cutter was unloaded and sent to fetch
it to camp. It was reported that two other cows and three calves were
killed. When Elder Kimball and others came up to the camp, President
Young requested some of the brethren to unload their wagons and go and
fetch the others reported to be killed, while the wagons would strike
towards the river and camp for the night. The chase lasted from soon
after 1:00 until 4:00 p.m. Soon four wagons were unloaded, the brethren
having their loads on the ground in care of a guard, and were ready
to start out. Having a great desire to see a buffalo in his natural
state, my feet being very sore, and the distance to the bluffs being
over three miles, I got into Brother Aaron Farr's wagon, he being one
who unloaded to fetch in the meat, and we started for the one shot down
by Elder Kimball, he and O. P. Rockwell following on horseback.
On our route, we met Luke Johnson and two other hunters returning.
Luke had a calf tied on his horse, himself on foot. When we arrived at
the cow, we found that three of the brethren had come on foot and had
already got the hide off, except the head. She was soon cut in two, put
in the wagon with the rest of the meat, hide and head, and we started
for the next cow which was about three quarters of a mile distant. This
cow would probably weigh on foot, about 700 pounds. She was not very
fat, but the meat looked nice and clean. When we arrived at the next
cow, we found several of the brethren at work with her, they had got
her hide off and soon had her in the wagon. We then proceeded to camp
and got in soon after sundown. The meat was unloaded in the semi-circle
opposite the President's wagon and placed on the hide which was spread
on the ground for the purpose of keeping it clean. The brethren's
faces beamed with joy to see the meat begin to come into camp, and
with some astonishment to view the size and ferocious appearance of
the head, which still had the hide on. Soon after the other wagons
came in and each deposited its load in the same place. Joseph Mathews
came in about the same time and reported that he had killed another
calf after chasing it three miles, making the total number killed in
the first day's buffalo hunt by the Camp of the Latter-day Saints,
already reported as follows: one bull, three cows and six calves, a
circumstance far exceeding our expectations and best hopes, and all
without the slightest accident or loss to man or property, except Luke
Johnson's cap and a ramrod to a rifle. There is, however, one shade
of suspense caused by the intelligence that Joseph Hancock has not
returned to camp. He started out on foot when the three buffalo were
first discovered this morning and has not been seen or heard of for
sometime. Considerable fear is entertained for his safety from the fact
that he is lame, and it is evident, or at least considered so, that
there are Indians near because a large smoke as of prairie burning has
been seen all the afternoon within some six or eight miles to the west
and must have been set on fire by somebody and the probability is, it
is Indians, although none has been seen for several days. The meat was
cut up into quarters and distributed one quarter to each company of
ten, leaving some to be distributed in the morning, and in a short time
every fire was loaded with it, and the camp had a good feast on the
fruits of today's labors.
Soon after the hunters started out at noon we came to a long range
of dog towns and saw many of the little prairie dogs playing around
their holes. The extent of this dog town is yet unknown, for we have
traveled over, and parallel with it about five miles this afternoon,
and they seem to extend still farther west. In some places the town
is nearly two miles broad, in others not so much, and must contain
thousands of the little dogs. I could not get near enough to see their
form distinctly, for they are so quick into their holes when anything
approaches, you can only have a partial view of them. They appear to be
about as long as a common grey squirrel but more chunky, a larger body
and chubbed head. The tail is short, more resembling that of a dog,
their color light brown. Their bark resembles the chirp of an English
throstle, and something like the chirp of a squirrel. They appear to
live on grass as it is all eaten off close to the ground throughout
the extent of their dog town, and the ground looks naked and barren
as a desert. Several of the brethren shot at the dogs but failed in
killing any. We had a north wind this afternoon and cold weather, our
course being nearly west over a level prairie, not far distant from the
island. Since noon we traveled about eight miles, and the encampment
was formed at half past six o'clock near a small lake about a mile
above the head of Grand Island. The grass is not so good here as it
has been back, and but a poor chance for the cattle, etc., to fill
themselves.
The appearance of the wild buffalo at a distance is somewhat singular.
The color of the back and about half way down the sides is a light
brown, the rest is a very dark brown. The shoulder appears slightly
rounding and humped. When running, the large shaggy head hangs low
down, about half way in height between the ground and the top of
the shoulder. They canter like any ox or cow, but appear far more
cumbersome and heavy, especially about the fore parts, which look
larger than they really are on account of the long, thick matty hair.
They run tolerably fast, but a good horse will easily gain on them.
They will run a long time without diminishing their speed. Their meat
is very sweet and tender as veal.
This morning is fine but cold. Ice about half an inch thick. Sometime
in the night a buffalo and calf came within a short distance of the
wagons. The guard discovered them and shot at the calf, wounding it
in the hind leg. They caught it alive and tied it up near the wagons
but concluded finally to kill and dress it. About six o'clock we
were gladdened to see Joseph Hancock come into camp with a piece of
buffalo meat. He reported that he killed a buffalo yesterday back on
the bluffs, and there being no one with him he concluded to stay by it
over night. He made a fire and scattered a little powder around his
buffalo to keep off the wolves. Some visited him during the night, but
were awed by the fire. After he had told his story and taken breakfast,
Brother Hancock started in company with four or five other brethren to
fetch in the meat on horseback, as no wagons could get over the bluffs
to it. They found that the wolves had devoured much of it, but the
balance they brought along with them. They also killed two antelope and
brought them into camp. The total number of buffalo now caught is five
large ones and seven calves. Edmund Ellsworth killed one of the prairie
dogs, and brought it to camp. It looks much like a squirrel, only the
body is thicker and the tail short and no bush on it. The day grew
pleasant till about noon, when it became cloudy and cold. President
Young, Kimball and others started out to look out a camp ground where
better feed can be obtained for our stock. They returned a little after
two and gave orders to go on a few miles. There have been a number of
buffalo seen in different directions, one grazing within three quarters
of a mile from camp, but orders were not to hunt or shoot today. At
three-fifteen the camp started and traveled two miles over dog towns
as yesterday. At a little after four p.m. we camped beside a long lake
of shoal, clear water near the banks of the Platte. This lake is about
three rods wide and connects with the river. The Platte appears about
two miles wide at this place but very shoal and muddy. There is no
timber but plenty of grass, mostly last year's growth. The weather is
more temperate and the wind ceased. President Young, Kimball and others
went on to look out a crossing place over this lake, etc. On their way,
they fell in with a buffalo cow and calf and chased them some to get
a view of them but not to kill. On their return they said we should
tarry here tomorrow and have some blacksmith work done and probably
hunt some. Half of the hide off the bull's face was brought into camp.
On examination I found the mark where Porter shot at his head. The ball
made a small hole, barely cutting through the outer surface or grain
of the hide which was near an inch thick. The hair near the top of the
head is about a foot long.
This morning cold and ice in the water pails. The hunters are going
out on foot. Tanner and Davenport are fixing their forges to do some
repairing, shoeing, etc. At about nine the hunters, twenty in number,
started out with two wagons which had been unloaded for the purpose.
At the same time, fifteen of the brethren on horseback started west
to examine the route, etc. At two-thirty the party who went to look
out the route returned and reported that Brother Empey had discovered
a large war party of Indians while he was chasing an antelope. The
Indians are in a hollow about twelve miles distance and about three
hundred in number, some on their horses and some standing beside them
holding the bridle. The company also saw nearly twenty scattered
Indians about four miles from here. When this report was made, orders
were given to dispatch a number of the brethren on horses, well armed
to warn the hunters and tell them to come to camp. In about half an
hour, twenty-three men started out on this mission. Before they reached
the bluffs which are about four miles from here, some of the hunters
were on their way to camp, having seen only one buffalo during the day.
In a little time all the hunters were notified and were on their way
back. They arrived about six o'clock, having got three antelope, and
the horsemen who went after them got two calves which were all brought
in and the day passed without accident. Some of the brethren saw some
objects at a distance, which, by their motions they were satisfied were
Indians. The day has been fine but cool and cloudy, with occasionally
a few drops of rain. A number of wagon tires have been set and other
blacksmithing, washing, drying meat, etc., done. The wind near south.
The cannon was unlimbered at night and prepared for action in case it
should be needed.
The morning fine but cool, wind about southwest. Two horses ran east as
much as six or eight miles and were pursued by the brethren and brought
back. William Smoot was thrown from a horse and his senses knocked out
of him by the fall. He soon recovered and appears to have sustained no
injury.
At seven-thirty the camp was called and received instructions from
President Young, especially in regard to leaving the wagons and
scattering off hunting without counsel. He strongly urged the brethren
not to do it any more and said if they did, some of them would be
caught by the Indians and if not killed would be severely abused. The
instructions and regulations given April 17th were read and enjoined
upon the camp to be observed more strictly. It was decided that the
cannon wagon should be unloaded, the box put on another wagon so
that the cannon can be always ready for action. An addition of ten
volunteers was made to the standing guard and ordered that all horses
and mules should be tied inside the circle at night, and the cattle
and cows outside within a few rods of the wagons. A guard to be placed
around the cattle when turned out to graze. It is thought best to
travel with the wagons four abreast and the cannon to go in the rear.
At nine o'clock the wagons commenced moving and passed over the lake
near its junction with the river, at which place it is about ten or
twelve feet wide.
After traveling about a half a mile the camp stopped some time, waiting
for some wagons behind. While stopping, three wagons were discovered on
the opposite bank of the river, considered to be traders going back to
Council Bluffs. The river is about two miles wide and no person here
acquainted with it, consequently no one attempted to go over, which
many desired. About eleven o'clock we proceeded, five wagons abreast
so as to be better prepared for defense should the Indians attack us.
After traveling about two miles, one of the men from the wagons on the
other side the river overtook us and we halted to see him. He said
there are only nine of them. They have been to Fort Laramie for furs
and are going to Council Bluffs. This is the sixteenth day since they
left the fort with ox teams. He says the road is good on the other
side and the river easily forded, being not more than knee deep in
the deepest place and a good bottom. He cheerfully agreed to carry
letters back for us but could not wait long. I wrote one to my family
and in about half an hour a pretty large mail was made up to send back
to Winter Quarters, and may the Lord grant that it may arrive safely.
Brother Johnson bought a buffalo robe of the man for about a pound and
a half of coffee, and another brother bought one for a pound of sugar
and a little pork. I feel my mind relieved by this unexpected privilege
of writing back to my dear family and hope they will have the pleasure
of perusing the contents.
At twenty minutes after one the bugle sounded for a march, and the
messenger is returning with the letters and a bag of provisions on his
shoulder which the brethren have given him for carrying the letters.
We traveled about four miles farther and at three-thirty, stopped to
let the teams feed on a small spot where the fire has not touched, the
rest having all been burned off within a few days. We have traveled
today only about six miles, having stopped much. The country is still
very level and nice traveling only for the dust. The wind south and our
course nearly west. When the trader went back over the river, Thomas
Woolsey, John Brown and John Pack accompanied him on horses to speak
with a person whom Brother Woolsey is acquainted with. They returned
soon after we stopped to feed and say that the river is very good to
cross, not being more than two feet deep in the deepest place, and the
bottom good. The horses broke through but very little. The traders
say furthermore, that if we continue on this side, we shall have to
cross the river twice where the water is much deeper and cannot be
crossed only in a ferry. There is a good traveled road also, which
would be an advantage we have not got on this side. During the time we
stopped to feed, a guard was placed around the cattle and horses to
keep them from straying far from the wagons. Then men were called out
and drilled with their loaded guns in the circle formed by the wagons.
Some objects are seen grazing about four miles west of us thought to be
buffalo. Thirteen in number. Some of the hunters are going out to give
them a chase, and try to kill some of them. At a quarter after five
o'clock, the camp was called together and Brother Brown reported what
the traders said about the route, etc., as above. The subject was then
talked over and when it was considered that we are making a road for
thousands of saints to follow, and they cannot ford the river when the
snow melts from the mountains, it was unanimously voted to keep on this
side as far as Fort Laramie at least. Soon after this we started on
again. Saw a lone buffalo but a short distance from us but it galloped
across the river. Saw also a number of antelope and some deer. About
seven o'clock we passed a spot where the Indians have camped and must
have been many of them. A while after sundown we arrived at a creek of
good water and camped for the night, having traveled about nine miles
today. The prairie level but all the grass burned off, except in small
patches. We have camped on a small spot which has escaped the fire.
Elder Kimball, who was one of the hunters who started out at four
o'clock, said the objects seen from camp were antelope, but he had seen
a herd of buffalo about a mile ahead of where we now are. He named this
creek, Buffalo creek.
The morning fine and very pleasant. Saw two small herds of buffalo a
few miles from camp. At seven-thirty continued our journey. I went
on foot about two miles and then stopped to count the horses, mules,
oxen, etc., and afterwards walked on again to the first wagons. Here
Elder Kimball offered me his horse to ride. I then went ahead with the
horsemen. We soon after came to a very bad slough and had to bear off
to the north to find a place to cross it. The prairie after we crossed
this slough about a mile wide from the river was very soft and it was
necessary to bear still farther to the north. The horses' feet cut
through the sod and the ground appeared wet under, although there has
been no rain for some time. At eleven-thirty we stopped to feed on a
small patch of unburnt grass, having come about nine miles, course
about west, with a very strong south wind. There were two buffalo
within about a half a mile from camp, grazing. Some of the brethren
went to view them, but the orders of the day are not to kill anything
which the men cannot carry to camp. There are no appearances of Indians
near except the prairie which is still burning ahead of us, supposed
to be set on fire by them. About one p.m. continued our journey and
traveled till three p.m., when some of the hunters came in, bringing a
live buffalo calf, also one they had killed. They reported that John
Brown, Jackson Redding and John S. Higbee, Luke Johnson had each killed
a calf, the one killed by Brother Higbee having previously been shot by
Amasa Lyman. Joseph Mathews killed a cow and Elder Kimball, O. P.
Rockwell and John S. Higbee chased the one brought in alive until a dog
seized it and Porter left his horse and caught it without shooting at
it and led it to camp. The revenue cutter was unloaded and sent after
the cow and calf left, they being about three miles off. We traveled on
about a half an hour and found the prairie all in a blaze. President
Young and Kimball thinking it unsafe to risk the wagons near the fire,
ordered the camp to go back a half a mile to an island where we can
have water for our teams and be secure from the fire. The prairie is
all burned bare and the black ashes fly bad, making the brethren look
more like Indians than white folks. There is some feed on the island,
and the cattle easily ford the stream to it. The calf is tied in the
circle. When a dog goes near it, it will attack the largest and they
flee from it, though not more than six or eight weeks old. About half
past six the revenue cutter arrived with the meat, which was fatter
than any we have had. They also brought in another calf which they
killed while out for the cow, making a total of one cow and six calves
brought into camp today. The meat was divided amongst the companies of
ten, each having either a calf or half a quarter of a cow.
This morning at five-fifteen, President Young called to the camp and
proposed to go on to where we can find feed for the teams. The brethren
assented and he gave orders to start as quickly as possible. However,
some must feed their teams a little corn, some milk their cows, etc.,
and it took till near six-thirty to get started. During the night the
Lord sent a light shower of rain which has put the fire out except in
one or two places and made it perfectly safe traveling. We have had a
strong southeast wind through the night but the morning is calm and
pleasant. We traveled about two miles and stopped on the unburned grass
to feed at a quarter to seven. Several antelope were surrounded by
the brethren and some shot at them, killing one. The rest made their
escape. We can see several large herds of buffalo within about two
miles of the camp and many calves amongst them. President Young and
Kimball rode ahead to find a place to stop for feed. The ground is
hard and good traveling. At a quarter to nine, proceeded on, President
Young and Kimball going ahead to point out the road. Our course about
northwest, the wind strong from west. We traveled near the river. Saw
thirteen elk together, also many antelope and numerous herds of buffalo
on both sides of the river. Jackson Redding shot an antelope which Luke
Johnson chased near the wagons.
A young buffalo calf followed Luke to camp, but the President advised
him to leave it as it is only a few days old. We stopped near the river
at a quarter to twelve, having traveled about six miles. We find a
little more grass here, but the numerous herds of buffalo keep it eaten
off close to the ground nearly all the way we have traveled today. The
President gave orders that no more game should be killed until further
orders. It appears we have got as much meat in camp as can be taken
care of. While we were stopping for noon, some of the cows moved off
towards a large buffalo herd, and when President Young and Kimball
started ahead after dinner they discovered the cows near the buffalo.
Brother Woolsey went to turn them back, but he had to run his mule
some distance before he could prevent the cows from mingling with the
buffalo. They brought the cows back to the wagons and then proceeded
ahead again. One part of the horsemen's business today has been to
drive the buffalo out of our track, judging it unsafe to risk them
between the wagons and the river. The camp proceeded on at one-thirty
and in about two miles distance found a lake of clear water. Here we
discovered the horsemen coming back, and found that the President had
lost his large spy glass, while chasing the cows from the buffalo herd,
a second time. He did not find it. We traveled slowly this afternoon,
some of the horses and oxen having given out in consequence of lack
of feed to sustain them. We traveled till six-thirty and camped near
some islands in the river, having traveled about seven miles this
afternoon and fifteen through the day, our course a little west of
northwest. Wind about west. Some think we have traveled eighteen, some
twenty and some even twenty-five miles today, but from the number of
times we stopped and the slowness with which the teams moved, I feel
satisfied that fifteen miles is plenty. About three quarters of a mile
back we saw a buffalo cow which appears to be sick. She fought the dogs
some time and then lay down, and the brethren went close to her, some
venturing to feel and handle her. I was within six or eight feet of her
and had a good view, as much as I wanted. She has lost all her hair
and looks very poor and weak. The President ordered that the brethren
leave her and not disturb her and she was left lying down, but it is
doubtful the wolves will kill and eat her before morning. When the
brethren went back to hunt the spy glass they found that the wolves
had killed the calf and nearly eaten it up. What they had not eaten,
they carried off with them. We have never been out of sight of herds of
buffalo today, and from where we are camped, I am satisfied we can see
over five thousand with the glass. The largest herd we have yet seen is
still ahead of us. The prairie looks black with them, both on this and
the other side of the river. Some think we have passed fifty, and some
even a hundred thousand during the day, or have seen them. It is truly
a sight wonderful to behold, and can scarcely be credited by those who
have not actually seen them.
This morning the wind northwest and almost as cold as winter. The
buffalo vastly numerous all around. About eight a.m. the camp was
called together and measures taken to raise more teams to put to the
canyon as some of the horses and even cattle have given out. The
President chastised Elder Snow for not attending to the cows yesterday
causing the President to lose his spy glass, it being Brother Snow's
turn to drive the cows according to his own voluntary agreement. At a
little before eleven o'clock, Porter Rockwell, Thomas Brown and Joseph
Mathews started back to hunt the spy glass, and soon after they left,
the camp proceeded onward. The day was cloudy and very cold. Our course
about northwest. We traveled about seven miles and camped at two-thirty
near several small islands, on the banks of the river. About four p.m.,
Porter and the others returned, having found the spy glass, which was
a source of joy to all the brethren. At six-thirty the companies were
called out to drill. I have been very sick all day with a complaint and
have suffered much.
Morning cold but fine. Started out at nine o'clock and traveled till
one p.m., distance seven and a half miles, course a little west
of northwest. The prairie on both sides of the river is literally
black with buffalo, and to try to say as to what number we have seen
this morning would be folly. I should imagine that at a moderate
calculation, we have seen over fifty thousand. They are more tame than
they have been, and will stand till the wagons come within two hundred
yards of them. Porter has shot one about two years old, the meat looks
nice. There is no difficulty in getting meat enough. It is with some
difficulty that the horsemen can drive them away from the track as
fast as the wagons come up. It is very warm today, and no wind. I have
counted the revolutions of a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
we have traveled. The reason why I have taken this method which is
somewhat tedious, is because there is generally a difference of two and
sometimes four miles in a day's travel between my estimation and that
of some others, and they have all thought I underrated it. This morning
I determined to take pains to know for a certainty how far we travel
today. Accordingly I measured the circumference of the nigh hind wheel
of one of Brother Kimball's wagons being the one I sleep in, in charge
of Philo Johnson. I found the wheel 14 feet 8 inches in circumference,
not varying one eighth of an inch. I then calculated how many
revolutions it would require for one mile and found it precisely 360
not varying one fraction which somewhat astonished me. I have counted
the whole revolutions during the day's travel and I find it to be a
little over eleven and a quarter miles, twenty revolutions over. The
overplus I shall add to the next day's travel. According to my previous
calculations we were two hundred eighty-five miles from Winter Quarters
this morning before we started. After traveling ten miles I placed a
small cedar post in the ground with these words written on it with
a pencil. "From Winter Quarters, two hundred ninety-five miles, May
8, '47. Camp all well. Wm. Clayton." Some have past the day's travel
at thirteen and some fourteen miles, which serves to convince more
strongly that the distances are overrated. I have repeatedly suggested
a plan of fixing machinery to a wagon wheel to tell the exact distance
we travel in a day, and many begin to be sanguine for carrying it into
effect, and I hope it will be done. Our course this afternoon has been
northwest, no wind and the prairie as bare as a poor English pasture,
the grass being eaten off by uncountable herds of buffalo. No pen nor
tongue can give an idea of the multitude now in sight continually, and
it appears difficult to keep them away from the wagons. Two calves
have been killed and brought to camp and multitudes would be killed
if the President did not prohibit the brethren from killing them only
as we need the meat. Truly, the Lord's cattle upon the thousand hills
are numerous. We are now camped on the banks of the river within a
quarter of a mile from where the range of bluffs, which have appeared
exceedingly ragged all day, strike the river, and when we move again we
have got to cross over them. President Young and Kimball have been back
on the bluffs on foot some distance and report that as far as they can
see the grass is eaten perfectly bare and the prospect for feed for our
teams is poor indeed. There are several buffalo lying dead around here,
whether dead from old age or by the hands of hunters or of starvation,
it is unknown. Many of the brethren have to cook their victuals on dry
buffalo dung, there being no wood near.
The morning very cold with wind southeast. At seven-fifty we proceeded
on three and a half miles, going a little around some of the bluffs
until we turned down on a low bottom and very sandy. We have camped
near some islands and can get wood and water, but poor feed for the
teams. We arrived here at nine-fifty and shall stay till morning.
Soon as the camp was formed, I went about three quarters of a mile
below to the river and washed my socks, towel and handkerchief as well
as I could in cold water without soap. I then stripped my clothing
off and washed from head to foot, which has made me feel much more
comfortable for I was covered with dust. After washing and putting on
clean clothing I sat down on the banks of the river and gave way to a
long train of solemn reflections respecting many things, especially in
regard to my family and their welfare for time and eternity. I shall
not write my thoughts here, inasmuch as I expect this journal will have
to pass through other hands besides my own or that of my family but if
I can carry my plans into operation, they will be written in a manner
that my family will each get their portion, whether before my death or
after, it matters not.
The day is very warm and the wind has moved to the west. According to
my calculations, we are now 300 miles from Winter Quarters, lacking a
few rods. I got a small board and wrote on it: "From Winter Quarters
three hundred miles, May 9, 1847. Pioneer Camp all well. Distance
according to the reckoning of Wm. Clayton." This was nailed on a post
and in the evening I went and set it up about three hundred yards from
here on a bend of the river. Spent the afternoon reading and writing
in Elder Kimball's journal. At three p.m. a meeting was called and the
camp addressed by several. President Young took tea with Elder Kimball,
and afterwards they started out together with one or two others to
look at the country ahead of us. They went a few miles and found a
small stream which we shall have to cross. Here they saw multitudes of
buffalo coming to water. Porter and Phineas Young went within six or
eight rods of them to try to get one, but in the whole herd, they could
not find one fit to kill. They are very poor, for there is no feed for
them, and in fact they are so numerous that they eat the grass as fast
as it springs. There are, however, some good cottonwood groves and
good water at the stream. After sundown the wind blew strong from the
northwest and the evening was cold and chilly.
The morning fine but cool. The wind nearly ceased. Last night I
dreamed that I was in company with the camp which was stopping beside
a considerable river of deep water. Our horses and cattle were tied
to stakes all around the camp to the distance of a quarter of a mile,
some good timber thinly scattered around. I thought President Young,
Kimball and several others started up the river in a flat boat without
stating their object, leaving the brethren to guard the camp, cattle,
etc. in their absence. When they had been gone sometime I thought a
large herd of buffalo came on full gallop right amongst our horses and
cattle, causing them to break their ropes and fly in every direction.
The brethren seemed thunderstruck and did not know what to do. Seeing a
small skiff in the river, I sprang into it, and a paddle lying in it,
I commenced rowing in pursuit of the President. It seemed as though I
literally flew through the water passing everything on the way like a
railway carriage. In a few minutes I overtook the brethren in the flat
boat, took the skiff and threw it on shore and to my astonishment I
saw that the skiff was made only of barks and cracked all over, and
it seemed impossible to put it in the water without sinking it. The
paddle with which I had rowed proved to be a very large feather and I
had another feather in my left hand with which I steered the skiff.
When I got into the flat boat, I made known what had passed in the
camp, but the brethren seemed no ways alarmed. I awoke and behold, it
was all a dream. Dr. Richards is going to deposit a letter in a stick
of wood prepared for the purpose near this place in such a manner that
the next company will discover it. He fixed it on a long pole and being
assisted by President Young and others raised it and fixed it firm in
the ground. His distance from Winter Quarters three hundred and sixteen
miles. At nine five the camp proceeded onward. After traveling two
miles we crossed a small creek which Elder Kimball named Skunk creek,
easily forded, though the ground was soft on the west side. About this
time the brethren at the head of the camp discovered a strange horse
alone on the prairie. Porter and Thomas Brown gave chase to try to
catch it. Brother John Brown states that when the Mississippi company
passed on the other side last season, one of the brethren lost a mare
and two colts, and this is supposed to be the oldest of the two. When
Brother Woolsey and Tippets came through from the battalion last winter
they saw the same horse near here. We traveled till twelve five and
finding a little better feed stopped for dinner having traveled a few
rods over six miles. The last two miles was over very soft prairie and
although the last year's grass has not been burned, the wheels cut
through the sod frequently. At the creek four miles back, some of the
brethren shot a buffalo which was brought into camp in the revenue
cutter. The meat is said to be good and the fattest we have had. At
two we continued our journey. About the same time Porter and Brown
returned having failed to catch the horse. After traveling about half
a mile we crossed a very bad slough, and beyond that for a mile the
ground was wet and soft. The teams began to give out, and at half past
four o'clock, the President ordered the wagons to strike for the timber
which was a little out of our course, but necessary to favor the teams
and obtain wood and water. We arrived near the timber and camped at
four fifty, having traveled since my last guide post a little over
nine and three-fourths miles, the last two miles the ground being dry
and good traveling. Some of the hunters killed a deer and we had some
venison for supper. Our course a little north of west. Light wind from
northwest. The day warm and pleasant. We have a little better feed for
cattle, and on the island plenty of brouse for horses, better timber
than we have had for some time past. It appears plain that vast herds
of buffalo have wintered here, but have mostly left and gone eastward
sometime ago, and we have the full growth of this year's grass which
is small indeed. The grass evidently springs later the farther west we
travel, and nature seems to have taught the wild cattle this lesson,
hence their eastward progress. There are some scattering herds of
buffalo around, but not nearly so numerous as they were some thirty
miles back. The face of the country here is indeed beautiful, the soil
rich on the bottoms, the ragged bluffs on each side of the river have
a splendid appearance, and at about ten miles distance, west of where
we now are, they seem to circle around until they form a junction. It
appears evident also, that we are above the junction of the north and
south forks of the Platte, the north fork running nearly northwest and
the south fork southwest. Brother Woolsey says these are the forks
in reality, but are connected some miles higher up by a slough, and
consequently the land between is set down by travelers as the main land
rather than as an island.
The morning cold. Wind east; camp well. At 7:00 a.m. went with a number
of the brethren who were going to dig some wolves out of a hole about a
quarter of a mile from camp. They dug out four and brought them alive
to camp. They are probably six or eight weeks old and about the size
of an English hare, very vicious. At half past nine the camp moved
onward over a very nice level, dry prairie for five miles. Amongst the
timber on the island could be seen many small cedar trees. At the end
of five miles, we had to pass over a small ridge of low, sandy bluffs,
which extended to the river. After passing nearly over the bluffs we
stopped half an hour to water the teams and eat a little dinner, then
proceeded on three miles farther and passed over a creek of clear
water, but this could not be very good in consequence of so many dead
buffalo lying in it. We proceeded on half a mile, and finding tolerably
good feed, stopped for the night, having traveled eight and half miles
today. Weather fine, wind south and southeast; course a little west
or northwest. We have seen few buffalo today, but there are signs
of thousands having wintered in the neighborhood. The country looks
beautiful, soil rich, only lacking timber. After the camp was formed,
it being half a mile to water, the brethren dug two wells, and about
four feet deep found plenty of good water. One of the wells is reported
to run a pail full a minute. Brother Appleton Harmon is working at the
machinery for the wagon to tell the distance we travel and expects
to have it in operation tomorrow, which will save me the trouble of
counting, as I have done, during the last four days. Took supper on
some duck presented to Elder Kimball by George Billings.
Morning cool, weather fine. Brother Appleton Harmon has completed the
machinery on the wagon so far that I shall only have to count the
number of miles, instead of the revolution of the wagon wheel. We
started at 9:10, the first mile pretty soft, the rest tolerably hard
and very good traveling. We have passed over vast beds of salt, or
rather dust with a salt taste. It looks something like dirty flour.
Traveled eight miles in four hours and two minutes, and stopped at
12:48 to feed, nearly opposite two small islands. The feed tolerably
good. Our course northwest. Considerable strong wind from southeast
covering everything in the wagons with dust and sand. No timber on the
bank of the river and but little on the islands. The hunters report
that they have seen many dead buffalo between here and the bluff with
the hides off and tongues taken out, a strong proof that Indians have
been here very recently, as the flesh looks fresh and lately killed.
The range of bluffs on each side the river extend much farther apart,
and near the foot of the south range can be seen timber scattering
along, which is an evidence that the south fork ranges in that
direction, although some are sanguine that we have not yet arrived at
the junction.
At half past three we moved on again and traveled four miles, camped
at a quarter to six near a bunch of small islands, and a kind of bayou
projecting from the river. Our course this afternoon a little south of
west, having come around a considerable bend in the river. The land
good and good traveling. Wind southeast. Several of the brethren caught
a number of small fish in the bayou or lake. The feed here is rather
scanty. Heavy clouds are rising in the west and northwest, and a fair
prospect for some rain which is much needed. It is now certain that we
are about fourteen and a half miles above the junction of the north and
south forks of the Platte, and although we have to make a new road all
the way, we find no obstacles so far. Brother Woodruff reports that he
has been beyond the bluffs north of the camp and saw upwards of 200
wickeups where the Indians have camped very recently.
He found a cured buffalo skin and some pieces of other skins also. The
hunters killed a two year old buffalo and brought it to camp. Brother
Orson Pratt reports that when we were five and a half miles back, we
were in latitude 41° 9' 44".
This morning cold and cloudy, cold enough for overcoats and buffalo
robes. The buffalo which was killed yesterday was cut up and divided
this morning amongst the companies of tens. Some feelings are manifest
this morning between Brothers Thomas Tanner and Aaron Farr on account
of the former taking the latter prisoner and putting him under a
guard part of the night. Perhaps Aaron was a little out of order in
conversing loud after the horn blew for prayers, but I think Brother
Tanner's angry spirit more blameable. At 9:00 we moved onward nearly
a west course four miles and at 11:00 stopped to feed teams at a spot
which is a little better than we generally have. The wind strong from
north and northeast.
At half past twelve we proceeded on again and traveled till four
o'clock, distance six and three quarters miles. At this distance we
arrived at a stream about six rods wide which appears to come from
the northeast, the water in appearance like the Platte, the bottom of
the river quick sand. Water in the middle about two feet deep; at the
sides quite shoal. It appears that travelers have never discovered this
stream for it is not noticed in any works that we have seen. We crossed
it without difficulty and camped on its banks. The weather cloudy and
very cold, with a strong north wind. Presidents Young and Kimball rode
ahead as usual to look out the road. They report that the bluffs half a
mile west come clear to the river and are considerably high. They found
several ranges of them and finally found a valley running between some
of the ranges through which we can pass by going about a mile around
from our course. This stream according to measurement, twenty-five and
one quarter miles above the junction of the two forks and 341 miles
from Winter Quarters, by estimation. President Young named it the North
Bluff Fork. A while before we arrived here four of the brethren went to
chase a few buffalo which were lying down at the foot of the bluffs,
but they did not get any. Presidents Young and Kimball saw a very large
rattlesnake near the river. Brother Kimball says the largest he ever
saw in his life. I saw a small green snake today, very pretty, the back
light green and the belly a pale yellow. Presidents Young and Kimball
suffered severely with cold while riding over the bluffs to look for a
road. Had to use buffalo dung for cooking, there being no timber.
The morning cloudy and very cold. In the west could occasionally be
seen streaks of lightning and distant thunder heard. At 8:00 a.m. the
dark clouds having approached nearer, it commenced raining pretty
hard, accompanied by lightning and thunder. The President ordered the
horses got up just before the rain commenced; and after the storm
ceased, we started onward at a quarter past ten. After traveling about
a mile we passed among and around the high bluffs, our course lying
nearly in a north direction for some time, then turning south and
on again approaching the river, nearly southeast. When within about
three quarters of a mile from the river, we stopped to feed at twenty
minutes to two, having traveled six and a quarter miles. We have got
on the level bottom again and are probably not more than three miles
in a direct line from where we started this morning. Presidents Young
and Kimball went forward to point out the route, which is very good to
travel, although considerably uneven. Brother Higbee killed an antelope
and wounded another which made its escape while he was loading his
rifle. We have better feed here than we have had for some time. We had
a little more rain just as we came to a halt. We have not had much wind
this morning but it is now increasing from the north. It is somewhat
warmer than this morning. The atmosphere cloudy and looks as if we
might have more rain. The land between the two forks for about 25 miles
is perfectly flat and very level without timber.
The bluffs there rise suddenly, apparently in a line from fork to
fork. There are many buffalo back in the valleys between the bluffs,
and although there is no sign of the prairie having been burned, it
is evident the buffalo have kept it eaten clean off, but have moved
back and east, probably since the Indians have been hunting them. Some
of the brethren have discovered fresh tracks where the Indians have
gone up this north stream, evidently very lately. But we are satisfied
the Lord hears the prayers of his servants and sends them out of the
way before we come up to them. At three o'clock we proceeded on our
journey, keeping above the lower prairie, which appeared soft and
swampy. Our road was very uneven. We went two and a half miles and
at half past four stopped to learn the report of those gone ahead to
look out the road. There is another high range of bluffs about half
a mile west of us, extending to the river. Elder Kimball went across
the several ranges of bluffs to the west side, and hunted for a road
in various directions, but there did not appear to be any possibility
of finding a road between the bluffs, without going many miles around.
President Young and he concluded it would be best to camp where the
wagons are and in the morning cross right over the bluffs by doubling
teams. Accordingly the encampment was formed about five-thirty, the
train having traveled eight and three quarters miles today. Our course
this afternoon nearly west, wind southeast. The feed for our teams
grows much better, and on one of these high sandy bluffs I saw a large
bed of flowers, not unlike the violet, and very rich. The sand on the
bluffs in some places looks like large drifts of snow, and in other
places seems to have deep chasms as if wasted by heavy rains. The
atmosphere is still cloudy but not so cold as it has been. The hunters
have killed two buffalo, three antelope and one badger during the day,
which will be very acceptable. It was dark when the hunters returned to
give the information. The revenue cutter was sent after the meat which
was reported to be a mile and a half distant. It was late when they
returned. There was an alarm made by the guard in the night supposing
the Indians were near. The camp were aroused to secure their horses,
but we had no further trouble about them.
I discovered that Brother Appleton Harmon is trying to have it
understood that he invented the machinery to tell the distance we
travel, which makes me think less of him than I formerly did. He is not
the inventor of it by a long way, but he has made the machinery, after
being told how to do it. What little souls work.
This morning is very cloudy and very cold, more like a January morning
than a May morning. The wind blows strong from the northeast. The
brethren who killed the buffalo did not bring it to camp last night,
but put it in the boat and left it till morning. About half past seven
they brought it in and divided it to the captains of ten. At eight
o'clock it commenced raining again but abated a little before nine. At
nine o'clock we commenced moving and after traveling three-quarters of
a mile began to ascend the sandy bluffs. It commenced raining again and
it looks like rain for all day. It is very cold, the wind continues
strong. The road was much of a zig zag over the bluffs, but only about
a mile before we descended to the bottom. We traveled a piece farther
and at half past ten o'clock it was considered best to turn out the
teams until it ceases raining, after traveling two and a quarter miles.
We found it unnecessary to double teams while crossing the bluffs and
we got over without difficulty, much better than we had anticipated.
About noon it again ceased raining and the signal was given to harness
up teams. At half past twelve we proceeded and traveled till a quarter
to three, distance four and a half miles, then formed the encampment
in a circle about a quarter of a mile from the river. The road has
been level but soft and wet, however not bad traveling. The bluffs are
about half a mile to the north and several herds of buffalo grazing on
them. Some of the hunters are gone to try and get some meat. The wind
still keeps up, and is cold, damp and uncomfortable. The feed appears
better here than we have had for some days, and the cattle soon fill
themselves which is a comfort and blessing to the camp. Some of the
brethren have been lucky enough to pick up a few sticks and dead wood
but our chief dependence for fuel is dry buffalo dung which abounds
everywhere, but the rain has injured it some for burning. About two
miles back we passed a place where the Indians have lately camped
during their hunt. It is plain that whole families are amongst their
number as the foot prints and moccasins of children have several times
been seen. They evidently make use of the buffalo dung for fuel, and
for seats, they dig up sods and lay them in a circle around their
fire which is in the center. We have passed a number of these little
temporary camping spots this afternoon. The reason why we did not
travel farther was that Elder Kimball being gone ahead to look out the
road, etc., he found as he came near the next bluffs that the feed is
all eaten off by the numerous herds of buffalo and found also, that we
shall have to travel over the bluffs and they appear wide and would be
impossible for the teams to get over them tonight, hence the necessity
of stopping here where we have good feed. The soil on this prairie
looks good and rich but there is no timber. In fact there is none in
sight, except a small grove on the other side the river about two miles
west of the camp. Late at night Porter Rockwell came in and reported
that he killed a buffalo. The cutter was sent for it to bring it to
camp. Our course this afternoon nearly west.
Morning fine, but chilly and cold. Wind north. Eric Glines killed an
antelope near the camp which was cut up and distributed. Soon after
breakfast, President Young, Elders Kimball, Woodruff and Benson went on
horseback to look out the best road over the bluffs. They returned at
half past twelve and reported that we can pass through a valley between
and around the bluffs, which will be about four miles across them.
About 5:00 p.m. several buffalo were seen making their way from the
bluffs towards our horses, some of which were very near them. Brother
Eric Glines started out with the intention of driving the buffalo away,
and bringing the horses nearer camp. When he got near, the buffalo did
not seem much disposed to move and he shot at one of them and wounded
him. He moved a little farther and Brother Glines followed him and shot
three times more at him. The buffalo then ran about forty rods, fell,
and soon expired. I went to look at him. He is a large one, judged to
weigh about 700 pounds, and in pretty good order. I left the brethren
skinning him and returned to camp where a meeting had been called at
5:00 p.m., and the brethren addressed by Elders Richards, Markham,
Rockwood and Kimball, chiefly on the subject of obeying counsel, and
Elder Kimball remarked in regard to hunting on the Sabbath. He would
not do it even in case of necessity, but he did not feel disposed to
find fault with the brethren. The laws and regulations for the camp of
April 18th were then read by Brother Bullock and the meeting dismissed.
About noon today Brother Appleton Harmon completed the machinery on
the wagon called a "roadometer" by adding a wheel to revolve once in
ten miles, showing each mile and also each quarter mile we travel, and
then casing the whole over so as to secure it from the weather. We are
now prepared to tell accurately, the distance we travel from day to
day which will supersede the idea of guessing, and be a satisfaction
not only to this camp, but to all who hereafter travel this way. I
have prepared another board to put up here on which the distance from
Winter Quarters is marked at 356¾ miles. I have also written on it that
the last seventy miles are measured, and we shall continue to measure
and put up guide posts as often as circumstances will permit through
the journey. The whole machinery consists of a shaft about 18 inches
long placed on gudgeons, one in the axle tree of the wagon, near which
are six arms placed at equal distances around it, and in which a cog
works which is fastened on the hub of the wagon wheel, turning the
shaft once round at every six revolutions of the wagon wheel. The upper
gudgeon plays in a piece of wood nailed to the wagon box, and near this
gudgeon on the shaft a screw is cut. The shaft lays at an angle of
about forty-five degrees. In this screw, a wheel of sixty cogs works on
an axle fixed in the side of the wagon, and which makes one revolution
each mile. In the shaft on which this wheel runs, four cogs are cut
on the fore part which plays in another wheel of forty cogs which
shows the miles and quarters to ten miles. The whole is cased over and
occupies a space of about 18 inches long, 15 inches high and 3 inches
thick.
After the meeting was dismissed, the cutter was sent to fetch the
meat in, killed by Brother Glines. They soon returned and the meat
was distributed as usual. Presidents Young and Kimball have walked
out together towards the bluffs. After supper Elder Whipple made me
a present of a half a candle made from buffalo tallow, by the light
of which I continue this journal. Although, as may be expected, the
buffalo are generally poorer at this season of the year, yet Brother
Whipple has obtained sufficient to make two candles from his portion
of meat received yesterday morning. The candle burns very clear and
pleasant. The tallow smells sweet and rich. I imagine it has a more
pleasant smell than the tallow of domestic cattle.
The morning very cold and chilly, wind northwest. Dr. Richards left
another letter on the camp ground for the benefit of the next company.
The letter is secured from the weather by a wooden case, and placed so
that the brethren can hardly miss finding it.
We started on our journey at 8:13 a.m. After traveling a mile and a
half, we arrived at the foot of another range of bluffs which extend to
the river, and began to ascend about a quarter of a mile north from the
river, the road also turning to the north. A quarter of a mile farther,
we crossed a stream of spring water about three feet wide. The road for
a little distance on both sides the stream is rough, sandy and crooked.
We then turned westward, and passed over a number of bluffs as there
was no chance to go around them without going miles out of our course.
On these sandy bluffs, there are very many small lizards about four or
five inches long from nose to the end of the tail, which is an inch and
a half long. The body looks short and chunky and is of a light grey
color with two rows of dark brown spots on each side of the body which
make it appear striped. The head is shaped something like the head of
a snake. They appear perfectly harmless and are pretty in appearance.
After traveling two and a quarter miles beyond the last mentioned
stream, we arrived at the west foot of the bluffs. The last part of the
road very sandy and there are several very steep places of descent.
However all the teams got safely over without difficulty. At the west
foot of the bluffs, there appears more grass than anywhere we have
yet been, although the buffalo have eaten it off considerably. Within
a quarter of a mile from the bluffs, we crossed two small streams of
spring water and at a mile from the foot of the bluffs, we crossed a
stream of spring water about four feet wide with a very rapid current.
The whole of this bottom seems full of springs and we have to keep near
the bluffs to make a good road to travel, and in fact, we find it more
or less soft and springy even close to the bluffs. A mile and a quarter
west of the last mentioned spring is another small stream of very clear
spring water. The others are rather muddy by running over sandy land.
They all appear to have their rise in the bluffs a short distance from
our road. At 11:35 we stopped to feed having traveled this morning,
six and three quarters miles. Our course west, weather fine, warm, and
little wind. While we were resting, one of President Young's horses
(in care of Phineas) mired down in a soft slough. A number of men soon
collected and with a rope dragged it out, washed and rubbed it, and all
was well again. Latitude 41° 12' 50".
At two o'clock, we proceeded onward. After traveling a half a mile, we
arrived at a very shoal stream of clear water about thirty feet wide
but not over three inches deep in the channel which is about three feet
wide. We forded it very easily and then passed over a short range of
low sandy bluffs about a quarter of a mile wide and then entered on
level prairie again, but we found it very soft and springy. Within two
and a half miles from the last mentioned stream we passed two others,
one very small, the other about four feet wide. They both doubtless
rise from springs at the foot of the bluffs. About ten minutes after
three o'clock, word arrived that a buffalo was killed by the hunters
about a mile from the road. Two men were sent to skin and dress it.
About the same time the revenue cutter arrived with two more buffalo,
one said to have been killed by Luke Johnson and the other by John
Brown, also an antelope killed by Amasa Lyman. The wagons halted at
a quarter to four, took the meat out of the boat, which immediately
returned to fetch the other buffalo which was killed by Porter
Rockwell. The meat was cut in quarters and put into the wagons and at
half past four o'clock we again moved onward and traveled till 5:50
p.m. and camped on a nice dry bottom prairie where the grass is shorter
than that we have passed all day. We traveled this afternoon six miles
and during the day twelve and three quarters, about a west course. We
are some distance from water but several wells were soon dug and good
water obtained at about four feet deep. Soon after we camped the boat
came in with the other buffalo and the meat was all distributed equally
around the camp, but it appears that some have already got more than
they need and feel unwilling to take a good forequarter. The bluffs
on the opposite side the river project to the river for some distance
opposite this place. Latitude 41° 13' 20".
The morning fine and very pleasant. At seven o'clock the President
called the captains of tens to his wagons and gave them a pretty severe
lecture. He referred to some who had left meat on the ground and would
not use it because it was not hind quarter. Some would murmur because
a fore quarter of meat was alloted to them, etc., which is not right,
for God has given us a commandment that we should not waste meat, nor
take life unless it is needful, but he can see a disposition in this
camp to slaughter everything before them, yea if all the buffalo and
game there is on our route were brought together to the camp, there are
some who would never cease until they had destroyed the whole. Some men
will shoot as much as thirty times at a rabbit if they did not kill it,
and are continually wasting their ammunition, but when they have used
all they have got, they may have the pleasure of carrying their empty
guns to the mountains and back, for he will not furnish them. We have
now meat enough to last some time if we will take proper care of it. As
to the horsemen, there are none with the exception of Brothers Kimball,
Woodruff and Benson, that ever take the trouble to look out a good road
for the wagons but all they seem to care about is to wait till their
breakfast is cooked for them, and when they have eaten it, they mount
their horses and scatter away, and if an antelope comes across the
track, the whole of us must be stopped perhaps half an hour while they
try to creep up near enough to kill it, but when we come to a bad place
on the route, all the interest they have is to get across the best
they can and leave myself and one or two others to pick out a crossing
place and guide the camp all the time. Such things are not right, and
he wants them to cease and all take an interest in the welfare of the
camp, be united, and receive the meat as a blessing from God and not as
a stink offering from the devil. It is not necessary to preach to the
elders in this camp, they know what is right as well as he does, and he
will not preach to them all the time. Let the captains do the best they
know how and teach their men to do likewise. The meeting dispersed,
the meat was taken care of and at a quarter past eight we started out
again, and traveled three and a quarter miles nearly a west course
over a very hard prairie and good traveling and then arrived at a nice
stream, Rattlesnake creek, about twenty or twenty-five feet wide, a
foot or 18 inches deep and a very strong current. This stream must take
its rise some distance back in the bluffs or else is supplied from many
strong springs, for there is much water comes down it. We traveled on
from this near the bank of the river about a northwest course over
tolerably rough land till 11:10 and then stopped to feed having come
six and a half miles this morning, the weather very hot. Opposite the
stream last mentioned on the south side the river, are several pine
groves, or rather cedar groves. There is some little pine wood, such
as knots and dead branches that can be picked up on the banks of the
river. It has floated from above. This, with a little buffalo chips,
makes a good fire for cooking. Latitude noon 41° 3' 44". Rattlesnake
creek was so named from the following incident: President Young, as he
rode up to the banks of the creek discovered that his horse stepped
within a foot of a very large rattlesnake. He turned his horse away
without harming it. Soon afterward, one of the brethren came up on foot
and stepped within two feet and a half of it. It immediately coiled up
and sprang at him and would have struck him (as it sprang 2½ feet) had
he not jumped to one side. He took his rifle and shot the snake dead.
The head of Cedar Bluffs, as named by Fremont, is three miles west of
where we camped last night. At 1:05 p.m. we continued our journey.
Our route lay near the banks of the river which seems narrower here.
After traveling three and a half miles, we crossed a stream about six
feet wide, and three quarters of a mile farther another stream of
tolerably deep, clear water about five feet wide. This stream is very
crooked and seems to run from the bluffs to the river in a perfect
serpentine or zig zag direction. Soon after starting this afternoon, we
discovered some dog towns, the grass eaten perfectly bare all around.
The feed is growing worse again, evidently eaten up by the buffalo. At
noon, a heavy black cloud arose in the west and we had a little rain,
accompanied by lightning and distant thunder. After passing the last
mentioned creek about a mile, we had to change our course to nearly
northwest on account of a bend in the river. We traveled till 5:30
and formed our encampment on the west bank of a running stream about
eight feet wide and one foot deep which is five miles from the crooked
creek, making our afternoon's travel nine and a quarter miles and the
day's travel fifteen and three quarters. The bluffs and the river here
are about a quarter of a mile apart, the river very wide, feed poor,
plenty of float wood, pine and cedar, for fuel. The weather calm and
warm, though cloudy. After encampment was formed, went with Elder Orson
Pratt to Dr. Richards' wagon to enter into arrangements for making
a map of our route. The doctor wants me to do it, assisted by Elder
Pratt's observations. He handed me Fremont's map, and I retired to my
wagon to commence operations, but soon found that the map does not
agree with my scale nor Elder Pratt's calculations. I then proposed to
Elder Pratt to wait until we get through the journey and take all the
necessary data and then make a new one instead of making our route on
Fremont's. The subject is left here till morning. After supper I took
my candle and finished this day's journal. At dark Colonel Markham
called the camp together to tell the brethren their duty in regard
to traveling, guarding teams, and standing guard at nights. The old
laws of April 18th were talked over and additional by-laws added, but
not being present I did not hear them, neither can I learn anything
from those who were present, for they all say that there were so many
little matters touched upon, and so many resolutions passed that they
remembered only one--and that is, when any man goes out of the
sound of the horn to fetch in his team, and sees another man's horse
or mule or ox, a little beyond or near his, he shall drive it also to
camp, and if he neglect to do so, he shall be sent back to do it even
if it requires an escort to make him. About seven o'clock the wind
shifted around to the north and blew strong and cold.
It has rained a little most of the night and still looks gloomy, cloudy
and like for a rainy day. Inasmuch as the feed is not good here, it
was thought best to move on before breakfast a few miles and seek
better feed. We started out at 5:05, the second division having the
right to lead, but a part of the first division being ready a little
before all the second were ready, they rushed on their teams, drove
fast and those of the second division behind had to leave the track
and run their teams to take their places. We traveled two and three
quarters miles, our course eleven and one fourth degrees north of west,
and then crossed a stream three feet wide, and one quarter of a mile
farther crossed another four feet wide. Our route lay within about
one quarter of a mile from the bluffs and a mile from the river which
takes a bend south from where we camped last night and runs close to
the bluffs on the south side. We then turned our course to a little
west of northwest as the river bends again to the bluffs on this side,
and traveled a quarter of a mile farther and halted for breakfast at
6:20, having traveled three and a quarter miles. The main body of the
camp have stopped a quarter of a mile back, being three miles from
where we started this morning. The road is mostly sandy, tall grass of
last year's growth. The two streams we passed seem to form many ponds
of clear water extending at short distances from each other from the
bluffs to the river. Elder Kimball has been ahead over the bluffs to
look out the road. It continues to rain a little occasionally with
light north wind. Elder Kimball found that the bluffs project entirely
to the river and are very sandy, but we can cross them without going
out of our course. At twenty minutes to nine, we proceeded onward a
little and then waited till the rest of the wagons came up. At the
distance of nearly a mile and a half, we crossed a stream about twenty
feet wide, not very deep, neither very good to cross, and exactly at
the distance of a mile and a half, we arrived at the foot of the bluffs
and began to ascend without doubling teams. Some of the teams stuck by,
but by the assistance of the extra men, they all got up. The bluffs
are very high, sandy and rough, and the sand cuts down considerably,
making it heavy on teams. These bluffs are three quarters of a mile
from the east foot to the west foot following our trail which is nearly
straight. About 200 yards from the west foot of the bluffs, we crossed
another stream five feet wide. It has rained heavily all the time
since we started after breakfast and continues. Consequently at half
past ten the camp formed into platoons and then halted to wait for
more favorable weather, having traveled six miles today over the worst
road we have had from Winter Quarters, rendered worse, doubtless, by
the heavy rains. About half past two the weather looked a little more
favorable and orders were given to move on. We started at five minutes
to three, about which time it again rained heavily. We traveled two
miles and then formed our encampment in a semi-circle on the banks of
the river, having traveled two miles and through the day, eight miles.
The first mile this evening was over very soft prairie, the last hard
and good. The rain still continues to pour down heavily and this has
been the most uncomfortable day we have had and the hardest on our
teams. The brethren, however, feel well and cheerful. The ox teams are
improving in their condition, but the horses do not stand it as well.
The stream at the east foot of the last mentioned bluffs was named
Wolf creek from the following circumstance: When Elder Kimball went
ahead this morning to search out a road, he went up the creek about a
mile and around over the bluffs to find, if possible, a better road
than the one close to the river. While he was searching, about a mile
north from the river he went down into a deep hollow surrounded by high
bluffs and as he was riding along at the bottom, he turned his head
to the left and saw two very large wolves at about five rods distance
gazing at him. One of them he said was nearly as large as a two year
old steer. When he saw these he looked around on the other side and saw
several others about the same distance from him, very large ones, and
all gazing fiercely at him. This startled him considerably, and more
especially when he reflected that he had no arms. He made a noise to
try to scare them away but they still stood, and he concluded to move
away as soon as he could. They did not follow him and he saw a dead
carcass near, which satisfied him that he had interrupted their repast.
On mentioning this circumstance to President Young, they named the
creek "Wolf Creek." He traveled back and forth over ten miles searching
out a road before breakfast. He also went out again afterwards and
got badly wet. He then concluded to change his clothing and remain
in his wagon. The evening is very cool and cloudy with wind from the
northeast. The rain had ceased about six o'clock, but it still looks
stormy.
The morning fair, but cloudy, light wind from northwest and cold. At
7:45 we started out again but had not traveled over a quarter of a
mile before the roadometer gave way on account of the rain yesterday
having caused the wood to swell and stick fast. One of the cogs in
the small wheel broke. We stopped about a half an hour and Appleton
Harmon took it to pieces and put it up again without the small wheel.
I had to count each mile after this. Three quarters of a mile from
where we camped, we crossed a creek eight feet wide and two and a half
feet deep. We then changed our course to about southwest a mile or so
following the banks of the river, as the ground was wet and swampy
nearer the bluffs. The river then winds around about three miles in a
bend and then strikes a little north of west. The bluffs on the north
appear to be about two miles from the river. We traveled till 11:15 and
then halted to feed, having traveled seven and three quarters miles
over tolerably good road, though at the commencement somewhat soft. On
the opposite side the river, the bluffs project near its banks. They
are rocky and almost perpendicular, beautified for miles by groves of
cedar. Opposite to where we are halted, we can see a ravine running up
the bluffs and at the foot, a flat bottom of about fifteen acres. At
the farther side of this bottom is a grove of trees not yet in leaf.
Brother Brown thinks they are ash and that the place is what is called
Ash Hollow and on Fremont's map, Ash Creek. We all felt anxious to
ascertain the fact whether this is Ash Hollow or not, for if it is,
the Oregon trail strikes the river at this place, and if it can be
ascertained that such is the fact, we then have a better privilege of
testing Fremont's distances to Laramie. We have already discovered that
his map is not altogether correct in several respects, and particularly
in showing the windings of the river and the distance of the bluffs
from it. I suggested the propriety of some persons going over in the
boat and Brother John Brown suggested it to President Young. The
boat was soon hauled by the brethren to the river, and Orson Pratt,
Amasa Lyman, Luke Johnson and John Brown started to row over, but the
current was so exceedingly strong the oars had no effect. John Brown
then jumped into the river which was about two and a half feet deep
and dragged the boat over, the others assisting with the oars. After
some hard labor they arrived on the opposite shore and went to the
hollow. They soon found the Oregon trail and ascertained that this is
Ash Hollow, Brother Brown having traveled on that road to near Laramie
last season with the Mississippi company and knew the place perfectly
well. They gathered some branches of wild cherry in full bloom, rambled
over the place a little while and then returned to camp. About the same
time the camp prepared to pursue their journey. The brethren arrived
and made their report, and at 1:45 p.m. we proceeded onward. From the
appearance of the bluffs ahead, our course this afternoon will be west
and northwest. A light breeze from northwest. Soon after we started,
one of the brethren killed a large rattlesnake within a rod of the road
made by the wagons and on the side where the cows travel. He killed it
to prevent its injuring the cows and threw it away from the road. In
the river one and a quarter miles above Ash Hollow, there are several
small islands on which grow many trees of cedar. One of these islands
is perfectly green over with cedar and looks beautiful. The bluffs also
on the south side the river continue to be lined with cedar apparently
for two miles yet and are very high and almost perpendicular, running
pretty close to the river. On this side the river, the bluffs seem to
bear farther to the north, being apparently about three miles from the
river, and a few miles farther west they are as much as five miles from
the river. After traveling three and a quarter miles from the noon
stop, we crossed a tributary stream running into the Platte, in a very
crooked direction, being from four to eight rods wide and two and a
half feet deep most of the way across, the bottom quick sand, current
rapid and water of sandy color like the Platte. Some had to double
teams to get over, but all got over safely. We proceeded on about four
miles farther and found that the river bends considerably to the north.
The bluffs also bend to the south, so that the low bluffs in front
almost reach the banks only barely leaving room for a road. We went
a little farther and camped for the night at half past five, having
traveled this afternoon eight miles, making fifteen and three quarters
miles during the day. Elder Kimball and several others went forward
on horses to pick out our road as usual. I have seen several kinds of
herbs growing today which appear new to me. One looks like penny royal,
smells almost like it, but tastes hot and like the oil of cloves.
Elder Kimball and others saw a very large wolf about half a mile west,
and he appeared to be following them to camp. They turned and rode up
to him and round him, struck their pistols at him, but they did not
go off, being damp. He finally made his escape. The large stream we
crossed this afternoon is named Castle Creek from the bluffs on the
opposite side which much resemble the rock on which Lancaster Castle is
built. The bluffs are named Castle Bluffs. We had a light shower this
afternoon, but the evening is fine though very cool.
The morning very fine and pleasant though tolerably cold. I put up
a guide board at this place with the following inscriptions on it:
"From Winter Quarters 409 miles. From the junction of the North and
South Forks, 93¼ miles. From Cedar Bluffs, south side the river, 36½
miles. Ash Hollow, south side the river, 8 miles. Camp of Pioneers May
21, 1847. According to Fremont, this place is 132 miles from Laramie.
N. B. The bluffs opposite are named Castle Bluffs." At 7:35 we
continued our journey. We found the prairie tolerably wet, many ponds
of water standing which must have been caused by a heavy fall of
rain, much more heavy than we had back. However, it was not very bad
traveling. We made a pretty straight road this morning at about the
distance of a mile from the river. The bluffs on the north appear to
be five miles or over from our road. At 11:15 we halted for dinner,
having traveled nearly seven and three quarters miles, course north
of northwest, very warm and no wind. Presidents Young and Kimball
rode forward to pick the road, and near this place they saw a nest of
wolves, caught and killed two with sticks. Four or five others escaped
to their hole. At half past one we proceeded onward and found the
prairie wet, and grass high of last year's growth. After traveling four
and three quarters miles we arrived at a range of low bluffs projecting
to the river, which at this place bends to the north. There is,
however, bottom of about a rod wide between the bluffs and the river,
but as it is wet and soft, it was preferred to cross over the bluffs by
bending a little more to the north. We traveled on the bluffs a little
over a quarter of a mile and then turned on the bottom again. The
bluffs are low and almost as level as the bottom. After we crossed the
bluffs we found the road better. We saw about a mile this side of the
foot of the bluffs, a very large bone almost petrified into stone. Most
of the brethren believe it to be the shoulder bone of a mammoth, and is
very large indeed. About this time a badger was brought to the wagons
which Brother Woodruff had killed. As I was walking along and looking
over the river, I heard a rattlesnake, and looking down saw that I had
stepped within a foot of it. It rattled hard but seemed to make away.
We threw it away from the track without killing it. At five o'clock
Elder Kimball rode up and stopped the forward teams till the last ones
got nearer saying that some Indians had come down from the bluffs to
the brethren ahead. When the rest of the wagons came up we moved on a
quarter of a mile farther and at half past five formed our encampment
in a circle with the wagons close together as possible, having traveled
seven and three quarters miles this afternoon, making fifteen and a
half through the day. As the camp was forming the two Indians came
nearer, being a man and his squaw. They represented by signs that they
were Sioux and that a party of them are now on the bluffs north of us
and not far distant. By the aid of glasses we could see several on
the bluffs with their ponies, evidently watching our movements. This
man was hunting when first seen and appeared afraid when he saw the
brethren. The squaw fled for the bluffs as fast as her horse could go,
but by signs made to them they gathered courage and came up. President
Young gave orders not to bring them into camp, and they soon rode off
to the bluffs. The man has got a good cloth coat on and appears well
dressed. The horses they rode are said to be work horses which makes
us suspect they have stolen them from travelers. The day has been
very warm and some of the teams gave out. We can see some timber on
the bluffs on the other side of the river some miles ahead which is
the first timber we have seen for more than a week, except some small
cedar and the timber in Ash Hollow, all on the south side the river.
We are nearly a mile from water and the brethren have to dig wells to
obtain a supply for cooking. The feed here is very poor, not much but
old grass. Our course this afternoon has been a little north of west.
Lorenzo Young shot two very large ducks with one ball and brought them
to camp. Elder Kimball proposed tonight that I should leave a number of
pages for so much of his journal as I am behind in copying and start
from the present and keep it up daily. He furnished me a candle and I
wrote the journal of this day's travel by candle light in his journal,
leaving fifty-six pages blank. The evening was very fine and pleasant.
The latitude at noon halt 41° 24' 5".
Morning beautiful, no wind and warm. We have not been disturbed by
the Indians; all is peace in the camp. At eight o'clock we continued
our journey, making a more crooked road than usual, having to bend
south to near the banks of the river. The prairie somewhat soft and a
little uneven. After traveling five and a half miles we crossed a very
shoal creek about twenty feet wide. The bluffs and river about a mile
apart, but on the other side, the bluffs recede two miles back from
the river and have lost their craggy and steep appearance, the ascent
being gradual, while on this side they begin to be rocky, cragged and
almost perpendicular though not very high. We traveled till half past
eleven and then halted for noon, having traveled seven and a quarter
miles, the road on this side the creek being better. Our course about
west of northwest with a light breeze from the east. Elder Kimball and
others ahead as usual. The creek above mentioned was named Crab Creek
because some of the brethren saw a very large crab in it. A mile east
of this creek is a dry creek, down which, from appearances, a heavy
stream runs at some seasons of the year, perhaps during heavy storms.
The water running from the bluffs swells it to a considerable height
and it is certain there are tremendous storms here. A while after we
halted, Porter Rockwell came in and said he had been on the high bluff
about a mile northwest of us and had seen the rock called Chimney Rock
which appeared a long distance off. We have been in hopes to come in
sight of it today and feel anxious in order to ascertain more certainly
the correctness of Fremont's distance. In order to satisfy myself,
although my feet were blistered and very sore, I determined to take my
telescope and go on the bluff to ascertain for myself whether the noted
rock could be seen or not. At half past twelve I started out alone. I
found the distance to the foot of the bluff a good mile, the ascent
gradual. From the foot the bluff looks very high and rough, many huge
rocks having broken from the summit from time to time and rolled down a
long distance. I found the ascent very steep and lengthy in comparison
to its appearance from camp. When I arrived on the top I found a nice
slightly arched surface of about a quarter of an acre in extent, but
barren and very little grass on it. Huge comparatively smooth rocks
peeped through the surface on one of which I wrote with red chalk:
"Wm. Clayton. May 22, 1847." On the highest point I sat down and took
a view of the surrounding country which is magnificent indeed. On the
south at the distance of two miles from the river, there is a range of
cedar trees on the bluffs which very much resemble some of the parks
and seats of gentry in England. East I could see where we camped last
night, the high grass still burning. Northeast, north, and northwest,
alternately, appeared high swelling bluffs and valleys as far as the
eye could see or the glass magnify. West, the course of the Platte for
ten or fifteen miles and at about four or five miles distance, a large
bend to the north brings it in contact with the bluffs on this side.
At the distance, I should judge of about twenty miles, I could see
Chimney Rock very plainly with the naked eye, which from here very much
resembles the large factory chimneys in England, although I could not
see the form of its base. The rock lay about due west from here. After
gratifying my curiosity, and seeing the men collecting their teams
for a march, I descended on the west side of the bluff. The descent
at this point looks more alarming than on the other. The side being
very steep and all along huge rocks standing so critically, that to
all appearance, a waft of wind would precipitate them to the prairie
below with tremendous force. In one place in particular, a ponderous
mass of rock appears to hang from the edge of the bluff without any
visible means of being retained in its position, and by gazing at it
a little while, it is easy to imagine you can see it move and ready
to overwhelm you instantly. At a little distance from the base of the
bluff, I turned to gaze on the romantic scenery above and was struck at
the appearance of a large rock projecting from one corner, which very
much resembled a frog's head of immense size with its mouth part open.
The thought was, those bluffs ought to be named and what name more
appropriate than Frog's Head Bluffs. After this reflection, I walked on
to where I thought the wagons would come which started out at half past
one. After traveling three and a quarter miles we crossed a dry creek
about six rods wide, and a quarter of a mile farther, another about
five feet wide and a half a mile farther, still another about six rods
wide on an average. These all appear to be the sources of heavy streams
of water at some seasons of the year. Soon as we crossed this last
one, I saw Elder Kimball wave his hat for the wagons to turn off to
the north in order to cross the bluffs which struck the river a little
farther. But a little to the west was a very high ridge and I concluded
to walk on to it. Found it to be a perfect ridge of gravel, very high
and rounding on the top, not more than four or five feet wide and from
north to south about 150 feet long. Elder Pratt names this Cobble
Hills, the gravel or cobbles varying in size of from fifty pounds in
weight to the smallest pebble. At the north foot of this hill is what
might be named a clay bank, being composed of a light colored kind of
sandy clay and forms a kind of large table. A little distance farther,
we crossed another dry creek about eight rods wide and then ascended
the bluffs. The ascent is pretty steep for nearly half a mile, but
hard and not difficult to travel. The wagon had to wind about some to
keep around the foot of the bluffs, crossing the dry creek three times
before we emerged from the bluffs to the banks of the river. We crossed
another dry creek pretty steep on each side and then found ourselves
once more on the prairie bottom. The bluffs are two and a quarter
miles from the east to the west foot following our trail. The wind has
blown from the southeast all day until lately, when a dead calm has
succeeded. In the west a heavy thunder cloud has been gathering for
two hours and vivid streaks of lightning observed in the distance. At
twenty minutes to five the wind struck suddenly from the northwest, the
blackest part of the cloud then lying in that direction. We had a few
drops of rain only. Then it seemed to turn off to the east. The scenery
after this was indeed sublime, the sun peering out from under the heavy
clouds reflecting long rays upwards which were imitated in the east.
The romantic bluffs on the north and the lightning playing in the
southeast all tended to fill my mind with pleasant reflections, on the
goodness and majesty of the Creator and Governor of the universe, and
the beauty of the works of his hands. At 5:45 we formed our encampment
in a circle within a quarter of a mile of the banks of the river,
having traveled this afternoon, eight and a quarter miles and through
the day fifteen and a half, making the distance from Winter Quarters
440 miles in five weeks and three and a half days. The feed on the
lower bench of the prairie is tolerably good, while the higher land is
quite bare. We have noticed today a great many petrified bones, some
very large. All are turned into solid, hard stone, which proves that
the atmosphere is pure and the country would doubtless be healthy, but
is not adapted for farming purposes on account of the poor sandy soil
and no timber at all on this side the river. I have noticed a variety
of shrubs, plants and flowers all new to me today, many of which have
a very pleasant smell and in some places the air appears impregnated
with the rich odors arising from them. Among the rest are numerous
beds of the southern wood. There are also vast beds of flinty pebbles
of various colors, some as white as alabaster. About 6:30 I observed a
group of brethren standing together inside the camp. I went up and saw
a young eagle which had been taken out of its nest on one of these high
bluffs by George R. Grant and Orson Whitney. Although it is very young
and its feathers have scarcely commenced growing, it measures from the
tips of its wings when stretched, forty-six inches. Its head is nearly
the size of my fist and looks very ferocious. After this I went with
John Pack and Horace Whitney to the bluffs. On our way we saw a large
wolf about as large as the largest dog in camp. He was within a quarter
of a mile from camp. After traveling about a mile we arrived at the
foot of a stupendous mass of rocks almost perpendicular, with only one
place where it was possible to ascend. We went up with difficulty and
by using our hands and knees, gained the top. We had to walk over a
little space which was only about three feet wide and on the east side
a perpendicular fall of about sixty feet. Although from the camp this
peak looks only large enough for a man to stand upon we found it large
enough to seat comfortably about twenty persons. The top is composed of
large rocks and very uneven. The prairie below looks a long distance
under foot from this peak. Descending we viewed the surrounding scenery
which looks more like the ruins of an ancient city with its castles,
towers, fortifications, etc., on all sides, and a dry stream coming
through the center. We proceeded to the next high rock and found it
very difficult of ascent. The top is nearly level and very pleasant. We
discovered several other varieties of shrubbery, all smelling pleasant
and strong. We saw that a horse has sometime stood on the top, but how
he got there, we could not easily determine. At the east end there is
a cedar tree flat on the top and on the underside almost looks like an
umbrella. We made a calculation of the height of this bluff as well as
we could and concluded it must be at least 200 feet higher than the
river. The surrounding country can be seen for many miles from its
summit, and Chimney Rock shows very plainly. We descended at the east
end and arrived in camp at dark well satisfied with our journey. Some
of the brethren have discovered a cave in one of these bluffs, and one
went into it a little distance, but it being very dark and having no
torch, he did not venture far. Elder Pratt reports that he saw on the
top of one of the bluffs, a hole in a rock 15 inches in diameter and a
foot deep with five inches of very cold good water in it. He supposed
it to be a spring. Between the bluffs they also discovered a spring of
pure cold water of a very good taste. Dr. Richards names these bluffs
"Bluff Ruins" from their appearance being that of the ruins of castles,
cities, etc. A little to the left is a small perpendicular rock much
resembling Chimney Rock but smaller. The whole of the scenery around
is one of romantic beauty which cannot be described with either pen or
tongue. Last night a large black dog, half wolf, supposed to belong to
the Indians, came to the camp. He has kept within two hundred yards of
the wagons all day, and has followed us to this place. There have been
many rattlesnakes seen today and six or seven killed. In fact, this
place seems to abound with them. The evening was spent very joyfully by
most of the brethren, it being very pleasant and moonlight. A number
danced till the bugle sounded for bed time at nine o'clock. A mock
trial was also prosecuted in the case of the camp vs. James Davenport
for blockading the highway and turning ladies out of their course.
Jackson Redding acted as the presiding judge. Elder Whipple attorney
for defendant and Luke Johnson attorney for the people. We have many
such trials in the camp which are amusing enough and tend among other
things to pass away the time cheerfully during leisure moments. It was
remarked this evening that we have one man in camp who is entitled to
the credit of being more even tempered than any of the others, and that
is Father Chamberlain. He is invariably cross and quarrelsome, but the
brethren all take it as a joke and he makes considerable amusement for
the camp. Opposite the encampment there are quite a number of small
islands, but no timber on any of them.
The morning very fine and pleasant. Brother Egan commenced washing
very early on the banks of the river. He kindly volunteered to wash my
dirty clothing which I accepted as a favor. After breakfast President
Young, Elders Kimball, Richards, Pratt, Woodruff, Smith and Benson and
Lyman walked out to view Bluff Ruins and returned at half past eleven.
A while ago I went out a little distance to view an adder which George
Billings had discovered. It was a dark brown color about 18 inches
long and three quarters of an inch thick through the body. They are
represented as very poisonous. About eleven o'clock Nathaniel Fairbanks
came into camp having been bitten in the leg by a rattlesnake. He went
on the bluffs with Aaron Farr and Brother Rolf and as they jumped off
from the bluff, the snake bit him, the others having jumped over him
farther. He said that in two minutes after he was bitten his tongue
began to prick and feel numb. When he got to camp his tongue and
hands pricked and felt numb as a person feels their feet sometimes
when they are said to be asleep. The brethren immediately applied
some tobacco juice and leaves, also turpentine, and bound tobacco on
his leg which was considerably swollen. We laid hands on him and Luke
Johnson administered a dose of lobelia in number six after he had taken
a strong drink of alcohol and water. The lobelia soon vomitted him
powerfully. He complains much of sickness at his stomach and dimness
in his eyes. He appears to be in much pain. While the brethren of the
quorum of the twelve were on one of the high detached bluffs they found
the skeleton of a buffalo's head. Brother Woodruff wrote the names of
all the quorum of the twelve present and set it upon the southwest
corner of the bluff. John Brown also wrote his name on it. Elder Pratt
took the altitude of the bluff and found it to be 235 feet above the
surface of the river. He did not calculate the height above the sea,
owing to the state of the atmosphere. He, however, predicted wind from
the same cause. At twelve o'clock the camp was called together for
meeting, and after singing and praying we were addressed by Elder Snow,
followed by President Young. The latter said there were many items of
doctrine which he often felt like teaching to the brethren, but as
to administering sealing ordinances, etc., this is no time or place
for them, they belong to the house of God and when we get located we
shall have an opportunity to build a house, etc. He expressed himself
satisfied with the conduct of the camp in general. He is pleased to
see so much union and disposition to obey council among the brethren
and hoped and prayed that it may continue and increase. He wants the
brethren to seek after knowledge and be faithful to acknowledge God in
all things but never take his name in vain nor use profane language.
If all the knowledge in this camp were put together and brother Joseph
were here in our midst, he could comprehend the whole of it and wind it
around his little finger. And then think of the knowledge of angels,
and above that, the knowledge of the Lord. There is much for us to
learn and a faithful man who desires eternal glory will seek after
knowledge all the time and his ideas never suffered to rust but are
always bright. He will not throw away the knowledge of small things
because they are familiar, but grasp all he can and keep doing so and
by retaining many small things he will thus gain a large pile, etc.
He expressed his feelings warmly towards all the brethren and prayed
them to be faithful, diligent and upright, for we are now sowing seed,
the fruit of which will be plucked in after days whether good or
bad. G. A. Smith made a few remarks, also several others of the
brethren. The president then stated that on Sunday next he wants the
brethren to understand that there will be meeting at eleven o'clock and
the sacrament administered, and he wants the brethren to attend, all
that can, and not ramble off and fatigue themselves but use the Sabbath
as a day of rest. He enjoined it upon Bishops T. Lewis, S. Roundy,
J. S. Higbee and A. Everett to see that the proper necessities
were prepared for the sacrament. The meeting was then dismissed. A
while after meeting I walked out with Elder Kimball a piece from
the camp. We sat down and I read to him my journal of the last four
days, with which he seemed well pleased. We then knelt down together
and poured out our souls to God for ourselves, the camp and our dear
families in Winter Quarters. While we were engaged in prayer the wind
rose suddenly from the northwest, a heavy cloud having been gathering
from the west all the afternoon. A sudden gust struck Elder Kimball's
hat and carried it off. After we got through, his hat was nowhere in
sight, but following the direction of the wind we soon saw it at a
distance on the bottom of the prairie still flying swiftly. We both ran
and chased it about three quarters of a mile and caught it a little
from the river. While we were out together I remarked that the buffalo
gnat had bitten us very severely. Elder Kimball said they bit him very
badly last evening. Their bite is very poisonous, and although they
are extremely small, they punish a person very much with an itching,
aching pain like a mosquito bite. About five o'clock the wind blew a
perfect gale and continued till seven when it commenced to rain very
heavily, large drops descending, accompanied with hail, which however,
did not continue very long but the wind continued nearly all night.
The lightning and thunder continued some time but not very severe. We
saw the necessity of having good stout bows to our wagons, and the
covers well fastened down, for the very stoutest seemed in danger of
being torn to pieces and the wagons blown over. When the wind commenced
blowing so strongly it turned very cold and long before dark I went to
bed to keep warm. Brother Fairbanks seems considerably better. This
evening President Young, Kimball and Benson laid hands on him and he
seemed much better afterwards.
The morning very cold indeed, strong wind from northwest. At 8:25 we
continued our journey and traveled over level prairie ten miles, then
halted to feed at 12:45. The bluffs on the north about two miles from
us and the river one mile. About noon the weather began to moderate
and grow warmer. While we were resting two Indians came to camp, their
object evidently being to get the dog which has followed us to this
place. They tarried a little while and then went away taking the dog
with them. At 3:00 p.m., we again proceeded and traveled till 6:00
p.m., distance six and a half miles, during the day 16½. Several of
the horse teams gave out and they are evidently failing but the oxen
are gaining daily. The mules stand the journey well and in fact all
the teams, considering the scarcity of grass. About 5:30 we discovered
a party of Indians on the opposite side the river moving west. When
we formed our encampment they crossed over the river. Some of the
brethren went to meet them carrying a white flag with them. When the
Indians saw the flag, some of them began to sing, and their chief held
up a U. S. flag. It was soon ascertained that their object was to
obtain something to eat. A number of them came to the camp and were
conducted around by Colonels Markham and Rockwood. They were shown a
six and fifteen shooter also the cannon and the gunners went through
the evolutions a number of times which seemed to please them much.
They are all well dressed and very noble looking, some having good
clean blankets, others nice robes artfully ornamented with beads and
paintings. All had many ornaments on their clothing and ears, some had
nice painted shells suspended from the ear. All appeared to be well
armed with muskets. Their moccasins were indeed clean and beautiful.
One had a pair of moccasins of a clear white, ornamented with beads,
etc. They fit very tight to the foot. For cleanness and neatness,
they will vie with the most tasteful whites. They are thirty-five
in number, about half squaws and children. They are Sioux and have
two recommends certifying as to their friendship, etc. The brethren
contributed something to eat which was sent to them. Our course today
has been nearly west, with a cool wind. The evening fine but cold
enough to freeze clothing stiff when laid on the grass to dry. Elder
Kimball has been quite unwell all day and mostly kept to his wagon.
Opposite the camp on the south side the river is a very large rock very
much resembling a castle of four stories high, but in a state of ruin.
A little to the east a rock stands which looks like a fragment of a
very thick wall. A few miles to the west Chimney Rock appears in full
view. The scenery around is pleasant and romantic. After the Indians
had viewed the camp, they returned to their horses and the rest of the
party who have camped on the banks of the river about a quarter of
a mile west of us. Elder Sherwood returned with them and soon after
came back accompanied by the chief and his squaw who signified a wish
to abide with our camp tonight. The brethren fixed up a tent for them
to sleep under; Porter Rockwell made them some coffee, and they were
furnished with some victuals. The old chief amused himself very much by
looking at the moon through a telescope for as much as twenty minutes.
Brother Fairbanks is much better this evening. Last night Luke Johnson
discovered a very large petrified bone in the neighborhood of the
bluffs as much as two feet wide, but he could not ascertain the length
of it. After laboring sometime ineffectually to dig it up, he broke off
two pieces and brought them to camp. They are very white and hard. It
is now eleven o'clock. I have been writing in Elder Kimball's journal
since dark, and have but little chance to write as much as I want in
my own and his both, but I feel determined to do all I can to keep a
journal of this expedition which will be interesting to my children
in after days, and perhaps to many of the Saints. The evening is very
fine but cool and I retire to rest with the feeling: "God bless my dear
family."
The morning fine and very pleasant. Most of the Indians, men, women
and children came early to camp on their ponies and marched around
mostly trying to obtain something to eat. Several little barters were
made with them for moccasins, skins, etc. John S. Higbee traded ponies
with one of them. They have some good ponies and some inferior ones,
but both male and females are neatly dressed and very tidy. They look
cheerful and pleased to witness the camp, etc. At 8:20 we proceeded
onward. After we started, the Indians left us and went over the river.
One mile from where we started, we began to ascend a low range of
bluffs to avoid a large, high sandy ridge which projects to the river.
We traveled three quarters of a mile and descended again to the level
prairie. At 9:40 we halted to let the cattle and teams graze, the feed
being good and plentiful, having traveled two and a half miles, mostly
northwest around a bend of the river. The sun is very hot, the roads
sandy and hard teaming. The river is probably three quarters of a mile
wide here and on this side there are many small islands. At 11:15
continued our journey and traveled till half past one, distance four
and three quarters miles over a very soft, wet, level prairie. We then
halted to feed and rest our teams, as they have been hard drawn nearly
all day. We have seen no game for several days except a few antelope
and hares. The buffalo appear to have left this region and in fact
there are little signs of many having been here. The feed is poor,
mostly last year's growth and very short. One of the hunters killed
an antelope, which was brought to camp and divided to the captains of
tens. At 3:00 p.m. we started again and traveled till a quarter to
six, distance four and three quarters miles, and during the day twelve
miles. For three miles of the first of this afternoon we had a good
road, but the last part has been very wet and soft, numerous ponds
of water standing all around caused by heavy rains. We have camped
on a very wet spot, but the feed being poor where it was drier, it
was decided to stay for the benefit of the teams. Our course has been
about northwest, very little wind and the day very warm. Chimney Rock
shows very plain and appears not more than two miles distance but is no
doubt five miles distance or over. Another antelope has been killed and
brought in by the hunters. Elder Orson Pratt is taking an observation
to ascertain the height of Chimney Rock. The evening was very pleasant
and the brethren passed away their time till after nine o'clock
dancing. Porter Rockwell shot the two antelope spoken of above. He also
shot two wolves. Latitude six and a quarter miles back, 41° 41' 46".
The morning very fine and pleasant. I have spent the morning working
on Dr. Richards' map. At eight o'clock continued on our journey. Elder
Pratt taking observations to tell the distance our road lies from
Chimney Rock. Yesterday morning Stephen Markham traded a mule which was
foundered and unable to work to one of the Indians for a pony. They put
him in the harness a little towards evening and again this morning.
When crossing a very soft place the whipple tree unhitched and struck
against his heels. He ran full gallop towards the head teams and twice
through the line of wagons causing several teams, horses and oxen both,
to spring from the road and run some distance before the men could
stop them. After running nearly a mile some of the brethren caught
the pony, brought him back and put him to the wagon again without any
accident, except a little injury to the harness. After traveling four
and five-eighths miles, we arrived at a point directly north of Chimney
Rock which we ascertained by the compass, having traveled since it
was first discovered 41½ miles. We proceeded till twelve o'clock and
halted to feed, having traveled seven and a quarter miles, a northwest
course, the road very straight and hard excepting a few spots where the
water stands caused by late heavy rains. We turned south a little to
get to grass as the higher prairie is barren, and scarcely any grass on
it. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and John Brown one which
were brought into camp and are being divided amongst the companies as
usual. Elder Pratt found that Chimney Rock is 260 feet high from its
base to its summit and the distance from our road at the nearest point
three miles. The latitude at noon halt 41° 45' 58". At 2:25 resumed our
journey making our road nearer the river than this morning. The road
somewhat crooked but good traveling. After traveling five miles, turned
directly south to avoid a bad slough and went a quarter of a mile and
then formed our encampment at five o'clock on the banks of the river.
The last quarter of a mile was not reckoned in the day's travel which
exclusive of that is 12¼ miles, course north of northwest. The feed
here is good and sufficient to fill our teams well. Joseph Hancock
killed an antelope which was brought into camp and distributed. Soon
after we camped, walked out to the bank of the river with Presidents
Young and Kimball to read to them some of the minutes of the old
council. We were joined by Dr. Richards and tarried till seven o'clock,
at which time a heavy black cloud was fast approaching from the west
and was soon followed by a strong wind and a little rain which lasted
only a short time. The evening afterwards warm and pleasant though
somewhat cloudy. Carloss Murray has been trying to rear the young eagle
caught on Saturday. After stopping tonight, he put it under a wagon and
a while afterwards the men ran the wagon back, one of the wheels ran
over its head and killed it. I wrote in Heber's journal till half past
ten and then went to rest.
The morning very fine. We have seen a number of romantic spots on our
journey, but I consider our view this morning more sublime than any
other. Chimney Rock lies southeast, opposite detached bluffs of various
shapes and sizes. To the southwest, Scott's Bluffs look majestic and
sublime. The prairie over which our route lies is very level and green
as far as we can see. The bluffs on the north low, and about three
miles distant. The scenery is truly delightful beyond imagination. I
have finished making Dr. Richards' map to Chimney Rock. Elder Pratt
has measured the width of the river at this place by the sextant and
found it to be exactly 792 yards. At ten minutes to eight we continued
our journey and traveled near the banks of the river till 11:45, being
eight miles. The route very good, hard and good traveling, although
a little crooked. Porter Rockwell has killed two antelope and Amasa
Lyman one, which were brought to the wagons and distributed. There
are some heavy thunder clouds in the south and west and a nice breeze
from northeast. At two o'clock we continued our journey over the same
kind of dry level prairie, keeping not far distant from the banks of
the river and making a straight road. At the distance of four and an
eighth miles passed the meridian of the northernmost peak of Scott's
Bluffs being 19¾ miles from the meridian of Chimney Rock. These bluffs
are very high, steep, and broken like many others, resembling ancient
ruins. They are probably two miles from north to south extremity, but
not very wide. We traveled till 4:45 and formed our encampment in a
circle near the banks of the river which from this place seems to bend
for some distance to the north, having traveled this afternoon five and
three quarters miles and during the day thirteen and three quarters,
mostly northwest. Elders Kimball and Woodruff pointed out the road
this forenoon. Afternoon Elder Kimball rode with me in Johnson's wagon
while I read some of his journal to him. The evening is very cold, wind
northeast, and raining some. Feed is good and the camp generally well.
Another antelope was brought in by the hunters. The latitude of the
northernmost peak of Scott's Bluffs 41° 50' 52".
The morning cool, damp, cloudy and some rain. Wind northeast. At about
eight o'clock the brethren were called together and the question
asked: shall we go on in the rain or wait until it is fair? All agreed
to stay until it was fair. I went to writing in Heber's journal and
wrote till nearly eleven o'clock. Elder Kimball came to the next wagon
where some of the boys were playing cards. He told them his views and
disapprobation of their spending time gaming and dancing and mock
trying, etc., and especially the profane language frequently uttered
by some. He reasoned with them on the subject and showed them that it
would lead from bad to worse if persisted in until the consequences
would become serious. He exhorted them to be more sober and wise. It
growing fair, we started out at eleven o'clock, our first four miles
being north of northwest in consequence of a bend in the river. We
traveled beside a creek of very clear water about a mile. It rises
about four miles northwest of where we camped last night and runs in
a crooked direction till it empties into the river about a mile west
of the camp. It rises from springs as was proved by Horace Whitney
who traced it to its source where there is a spring rising out of a
circular kind of wet swamp about six feet in diameter. The creek is
about eight feet wide but not deep, the bottom is gravelly. Near where
it empties into the river, they discovered a number of large spotted
trout, suckers and dais of a good size. The water tasted very good and
cold. At the distance of four miles we arrived and traveled at the foot
of the bluffs, the road sandy and heavy on teams. We soon turned from
the bluffs on a level barren prairie, hard and good traveling. At nine
miles descended on a lower bench of prairie where we found it wet and
soft though not bad rolling. At 4:45 formed our encampment near the
river, having traveled eleven and a half miles, the last seven a little
south of west. The feed here is not very good. Driftwood tolerably
plentiful. We have seen a few small trees on the islands today but
none on the north bank. Vast quantities of southern wood and prickley
pear grow on these sandy prairies where there is no grass. The evening
cloudy and dull with cold northeast wind. While Thomas Brown and Porter
Rockwell were out hunting about five miles north of here, the former
saw five or six Indians about a quarter of a mile from him. They also
saw many new footprints of horses, which shows that there is a hunting
party near.
The morning cold, wet and cloudy with wind from northeast. We shall not
travel unless it grows fair and better weather. I spent the morning
writing in Elder Kimball's journal, but felt very unwell having
taken cold yesterday and been sick all night. About ten o'clock, the
weather looked a little better and at half past ten the bugle sounded
as a signal for the teams to be got together. After the teams were
harnessed, the brethren were called together to the boat in the circle.
President Young taking his station in the boat, ordered each captain of
ten to lead out his respective company and get all his men together. He
then called on the clerk to call over the names of the camp to see if
all were present. Joseph Hancock and Andrew Gibbons were reported to
be absent hunting. Brothers Elijah Newman and Nathaniel Fairbanks were
confined to their wagons but answered to their names, the remainder all
present. President Young then addressed the meeting in substance as
follows:
"I remarked last Sunday that I had not felt much like preaching to the
brethren on this mission. This morning I feel like preaching a little,
and shall take for my text, 'That as to pursuing our journey with this
company with the spirit they possess, I am about to revolt against it.'
This is the text I feel like preaching on this morning, consequently
I am in no hurry. In the first place, before we left Winter Quarters,
it was told to the brethren and many knew it by experience, that we
had to leave our homes, our houses, our land and our all because we
believed in the Gospel as revealed to the Saints in these last days.
The rise of the persecutions against the Church was in consequence of
the doctrines of eternal truth taught by Joseph. Many knew this by
experience. Some lost their husbands, some lost their wives, and some
their children through persecution, and yet we have not been disposed
to forsake the truth and turn and mingle with the gentiles, except a
few who have turned aside and gone away from us, and we have learned
in a measure, the difference between a professor of religion and a
possessor of religion. Before we left Winter Quarters it was told to
the brethren that we were going to look out a home for the Saints
where they would be free from persecution by the gentiles, where we
could dwell in peace and serve God according to the Holy Priesthood,
where we could build up the kingdom so that the nations would begin to
flock to our standard. I have said many things to the brethren about
the strictness of their walk and conduct when we left the gentiles,
and told them that we would have to walk upright or the law would be
put in force, etc. Many have left and turned aside through fear, but
no good upright, honest man will fear. The Gospel does not bind a good
man down and deprive him of his rights and privileges. It does not
prevent him from enjoying the fruits of his labors. It does not rob
him of blessings. It does not stop his increase. It does not diminish
his kingdom, but it is calculated to enlarge his kingdom as well as to
enlarge his heart. It is calculated to give him privileges and power,
and honor, and exaltation and everything which his heart can desire
in righteousness all the days of his life, and then, when he gets
exalted into the eternal world he can still turn around and say it
hath not entered into the heart of man to conceive the glory and honor
and blessings which God hath in store for those that love and serve
Him. I want the brethren to understand and comprehend the principles
of eternal life, and to watch the spirit, be wide awake and not be
overcome by the adversary. You can see the fruits of the spirit, but
you cannot see the spirit itself with the natural eye, you behold it
not. You can see the result of yielding to the evil spirit and what
it will lead you to, but you do not see the spirit itself nor its
operations, only by the spirit that's in you. Nobody has told me what
has been going on in the camp, but I have known it all the while. I
have been watching its movements, its influence, its effects, and I
know the result if it is not put a stop to. I want you to understand
that inasmuch as we are beyond the power of the gentiles where the
devil has tabernacles in the priests and the people, we are beyond
their reach, we are beyond their power. We are beyond their grasp,
and what has the devil now to work upon? Upon the spirits of men in
this camp, and if you do not open your hearts so that the Spirit of
God can enter your hearts and teach you the right way, I know that you
are a ruined people and will be destroyed and that without remedy,
and unless there is a change and a different course of conduct, a
different spirit to what is now in this camp, I go no farther. I am in
no hurry. Give me the man of prayers, give me the man of faith, give
me the man of meditation, a sober-minded man, and I would far rather
go amongst the savages with six or eight such men than to trust myself
with the whole of this camp with the spirit they now possess. Here is
an opportunity for every man to prove himself, to know whether he will
pray and remember his God without being asked to do it every day; to
know whether he will have confidence enough to ask of God that he may
receive without my telling him to do it. If this camp was composed of
men who had newly received the Gospel, men who had not received the
priesthood, men who had not been through the ordinances in the temple
and who had not had years of experience, enough to have learned the
influence of the spirits and the difference between a good and an evil
spirit, I should feel like preaching to them and watching over them
and telling them all the time, day by day. But here are the Elders of
Israel, men who have had years of experience, men who have had the
priesthood for years--and have they got faith enough to rise up
and stop a mean, low, groveling, covetous, quarrelsome spirit? No, they
have not, nor would they try to stop it, unless I rise up in the power
of God and put it down. I do not mean to bow down to the spirit that
is in this camp, and which is rankling in the bosoms of the brethren,
and which will lead to knock downs and perhaps to the use of the knife
to cut each other's throats if it is not put a stop to. I do not mean
to bow down to the spirit which causes the brethren to quarrel. When I
wake up in the morning, the first thing I hear is some of the brethren
jawing each other and quarreling because a horse has got loose in the
night. I have let the brethren dance and fiddle and act the nigger
night after night to see what they will do, and what extremes they
would go to, if suffered to go as far as they would. I do not love to
see it. The brethren say they want a little exercise to pass away time
in the evenings, but if you can't tire yourselves bad enough with a
day's journey without, dancing every night, carry your guns on your
shoulders and walk, carry your wood to camp instead of lounging and
lying asleep in your wagons, increasing the load until your teams are
tired to death and ready to drop to the earth. Help your teams over
mud holes and bad places instead of lounging in your wagons and that
will give you exercise enough without dancing. Well, they will play
cards, they will play checkers, they will play dominoes, and if they
had the privilege and were where they could get whiskey, they would
be drunk half their time, and in one week they would quarrel, get to
high words and draw their knives to kill each other. This is what such
a course of things would lead to. Don't you know it? Yes. Well, then,
why don't you try to put it down? I have played cards once in my life
since I became a Mormon to see what kind of spirit would attend it,
and I was so well satisfied, that I would rather see in your hands the
dirtiest thing you could find on the earth, than a pack of cards. You
never read of gambling, playing cards, checkers, dominoes, etc., in
the scriptures, but you do read of men praising the Lord in the dance,
but who ever read of praising the Lord in a game at cards? If any man
had sense enough to play a game at cards, or dance a little without
wanting to keep it up all the time, but exercise a little and then quit
it and think no more of it, it would do well enough, but you want to
keep it up till midnight and every night, and all the time. You don't
know how to control your senses. Last winter when we had our seasons of
recreation in the council house, I went forth in the dance frequently,
but did my mind run on it? No! To be sure, when I was dancing, my mind
was on the dance, but the moment I stopped in the middle or the end
of a tune, my mind was engaged in prayer and praise to my Heavenly
Father and whatever I engage in, my mind is on it while engaged in it,
but the moment I am done with it, my mind is drawn up to my God. The
devils which inhabit the gentiles' priests are here. The tabernacles
are not here, we are out of their power, we are beyond their grasp, we
are beyond the reach of their persecutions, but the devils are here,
and the first thing you'll know if you don't open your eyes and your
hearts, they will cause divisions in our camp and perhaps war, as they
did with the Lamanites as you read in the Book of Mormon. Do we suppose
that we are going to look out a home for the Saints, a resting place, a
place of peace where they can build up the kingdom and bid the nations
welcome, with a low, mean, dirty, trifling, covetous, wicked spirit
dwelling in our bosoms? It is vain! vain! Some of you are very fond of
passing jokes, and will carry your jokes very far. But will you take
a joke? If you do not want to take a joke, don't give a joke to your
brethren. Joking, nonsense, profane language, trifling conversation and
loud laughter do not belong to us. Suppose the angels were witnessing
the hoe down the other evening, and listening to the haw haws the other
evening, would they not be ashamed of it? I am ashamed of it. I have
not given a joke to any man on this journey nor felt like it; neither
have I insulted any man's feelings but I have hollowed pretty loud and
spoken sharply to the brethren when I have seen their awkwardness at
coming to camp. The revelations in the Bible, in the Book of Mormon,
and Doctrine and Covenants, teach us to be sober; and let me ask you
elders that have been through the ordinances in the temple, what were
your covenants there? I say you should remember them. When I laugh I
see my folly and nothingness and weakness and am ashamed of myself. I
think meaner and worse of myself than any man can think of me; but I
delight in God, and in His commandments and delight to meditate on Him
and to serve Him and I mean that everything in me shall be subjected
to Him. Now let every man repent of his weakness, of his follies, of
his meanness, and every kind of wickedness, and stop your swearing and
profane language, for it is in this camp and I know it, and have known
it. I have said nothing about it, but I now tell you, if you don't stop
it you shall be cursed by the Almighty and shall dwindle away and be
damned. Such things shall not be suffered in this camp. You shall honor
God, and confess His name or else you shall suffer the penalty. Most
of this camp belong to the Church, nearly all; and I would say to you
brethren, and to the Elders of Israel, if you are faithful, you will
yet be sent to preach this Gospel to the nations of the earth and bid
all welcome whether they believe the Gospel or not, and this kingdom
will reign over many who do not belong to the Church, over thousands
who do not believe in the Gospel. Bye and bye every knee shall bow and
every tongue confess and acknowledge and reverence and honor the name
of God and His priesthood and observe the laws of the kingdom whether
they belong to the Church and obey the Gospel or not, and I mean that
every man in this camp shall do it. That is what the scripture means by
every knee shall bow, etc., and you cannot make anything else out of
it. I understand there are several in this camp who do not belong to
the Church. I am the man who will stand up for them and protect them in
all their rights. And they shall not trample on our rights nor on the
priesthood. They shall reverence and acknowledge the name of God and
His priesthood, and if they set up their heads and seek to introduce
iniquity into this camp and to trample on the priesthood, I swear to
them, they shall never go back to tell the tale. I will leave them
where they will be safe. If they want to retreat they can now have the
privilege, and any man who chooses to go back rather than abide the law
of God can now have the privilege of doing so before we go any farther.
Here are the Elders of Israel who have the priesthood, who have got
to preach the Gospel, who have to gather the nations of the earth,
who have to build up the kingdom so that the nations can come to it,
they will stop to dance as niggers. I don't mean this as debasing the
negroes by any means; they will hoe down all, turn summersets, dance on
their knees, and haw, haw, out loud; they will play cards, they will
play checkers and dominoes, they will use profane language, they will
swear! Suppose when you go to preach, the people should ask you what
you did when you went on this mission to seek out a home for the whole
Church, what was your course of conduct? Did you dance? Yes. Did you
hoe down all? Yes. Did you play cards? Yes. Did you play checkers? Yes.
Did you use profane language? Yes. Did you swear? Yes. Did you quarrel
with each other and threaten each other? Why yes. How would you feel?
What would you say for yourselves? Would you not want to go and hide
up? Your mouths would be stopped and you would want to creep away in
disgrace. I am one of the last to ask my brethren to enter into solemn
covenants, but if they will not enter into a covenant to put away their
iniquity and turn to the Lord and serve Him and acknowledge and honor
His name, I want them to take their wagons and retreat back, for I
shall go no farther under such a state of things. If we don't repent
and quit our wickedness we will have more hinderances than we have
had, and worse storms to encounter. I want the brethren to be ready
for meeting tomorrow at the time appointed, instead of rambling off,
and hiding in their wagons to play cards, etc. I think it will be good
for us to have a fast meeting tomorrow and a prayer meeting to humble
ourselves and turn to the Lord and he will forgive us."
He then called upon all the High Priests to step forth in a line in
front of the wagon and then the bishops to step in front of the High
Priests, which being done, he counted them and found their number to
be four bishops and fifteen high priests. He then called upon all the
seventies to form a line in the rear of the high priests. On being
counted, they were ascertained to number seventy-eight. Next he called
on the elders to form a line in the rear of the wagon. They were eight
in number. There were also eight of the quorum of the twelve. He then
asked the brethren of the quorum of the twelve if they were willing to
covenant, to turn to the Lord with all their hearts, to repent of all
their follies, to cease from all their evils and serve God according
to His laws. If they were willing, to manifest it by holding up their
right hand. Every man held up his hand in token that he covenanted. He
then put the same question to the high priests and bishops; next to the
seventies, and then to the elders, and lastly to the other brethren.
All covenanted with uplifted hands without a dissenting voice. He then
addressed those who are not members of the Church and told them they
should be protected in their rights and privileges while they would
conduct themselves well and not seek to trample on the priesthood nor
blaspheme the name of God, etc. He then referred to the conduct of
Benjamin Rolfe's two younger brothers, in joining with the Higbees and
John C. Bennett in sowing discord and strife among the Saints in Nauvoo
and remarked that there will be no more Bennett scrapes suffered here.
He spoke highly of Benjamin Rolfe's conduct, although not a member of
the Church and also referred to the esteem in which his father and
mother were held by the Saints generally. He then very tenderly blessed
the brethren and prayed that God would enable them to fulfill their
covenants and then withdrew to give opportunity for others to speak
if they felt like it. Elder Kimball arose to say that he agreed with
all that President Young had said. He receives it as the word of the
Lord to him and it is the word of the Lord to this camp if they will
receive it. He has been watching the motion of things and the conduct
of the brethren for some time and has seen what it would lead to. He
has said little but thought a great deal. It has made him shudder
when he has seen the Elders of Israel descend to the lowest, dirtiest
things imaginable, the tail end of everything, but what has passed this
morning will make it an everlasting blessing to the brethren, if they
will repent and be faithful and keep their covenant. He never can rest
satisfied until his family is liberated from the gentiles and their
company and established in a land where they can plant and reap the
fruits of their labors, but he has never had the privilege of eating
the fruits of his labors yet, neither has his family, but when this is
done he can sleep in peace if necessary but not till then. If we will
serve the Lord, remember His name to call upon Him, and be faithful, we
shall not one of us be left under the sod, but shall be permitted to
return and meet our families in peace and enjoy their society again;
but if this camp continues the course of conduct it has done, the
judgment of God will overtake us. He hopes the brethren will take heed
to what President Young has said and let it sink deep in their hearts.
Elder Pratt wanted to add a word to what has been said. "Much good
advice has been given to teach us how we may spend our time profitably
by prayer, and meditation, etc." But there is another idea which
he wants to add. "There are many books in the camp and worlds of
knowledge before us which we have not obtained, and if the brethren
would devote all their leisure time to seeking after knowledge, they
would never need to say they had nothing with which to pass away their
time. If we could spend 23 hours out of the 24 in gaining knowledge
and only sleep one hour of the 24 all the days of our life, there
would still be worlds of knowledge in store for us yet to learn. He
knows it is difficult to bring our minds to diligent and constant
studies, in pursuit of knowledge all at once, but by steady practice
and perseverance we shall become habituated to it, and it will become a
pleasure to us. He would recommend to the brethren, besides prayer, and
obedience, to seek after knowledge continually. And it will help us to
overcome our follies and nonsense; we shall have no time for it.
Elder Woodruff said he remembered the time when the camp went up to
Missouri to redeem Zion, when Brother Joseph stood up on a wagon wheel
and told the brethren that the decree had passed and could not be
revoked, and the destroying angel would visit the camp and we should
die like sheep with the rot. He had repeatedly warned the brethren of
their evil conduct and what it would lead to, but they still continued
in their course. It was not long before the destroying angel did visit
the camp and the brethren began to fall as Brother Joseph had said. We
buried eighteen in a short time and a more sorrowful time I never saw.
There are nine here who were in that camp and they all recollect the
circumstance well and will never forget it. He has been thinking while
the President was speaking, that if he was one who had played checkers
or cards, he would take every pack of cards and every checker board and
burn them up so that they would no longer be in the way to tempt us.
Colonel Markham acknowledged that he had done wrong in many things.
He had always indulged himself, before he came into the Church, with
everything he desired and he knows he has done wrong on this journey,
he knows his mind has become darkened since he left Winter Quarters.
He hopes the brethren will forgive him and he will pray to be forgiven
and try to do better. While he was speaking he was very much affected
indeed and wept like a child. Many of the brethren felt much affected
and all seemed to realize for the first time, the excess to which they
had yielded and the awful consequence of such things if persisted in.
Many were in tears and felt humbled. President Young returned to the
boat as Brother Markham closed his remarks and said in reply, that he
knew the brethren would forgive him, and the Lord will forgive us all
if we turn to Him with all our hearts and cease to do evil. The meeting
was then dismissed, each man retiring to his wagon. And being half past
one o'clock we again pursued our journey in peace, all reflecting on
what has passed today, and many expressing their gratitude for what
has transpired. It seemed as though we were just commencing on this
important mission, and all realizing the responsibility resting upon
us to conduct ourselves in such a manner that the journey may be an
everlasting blessing to us, instead of an everlasting disgrace. No loud
laughter was heard, no swearing, no quarreling, no profane language, no
hard speeches to man or beast, and it truly seemed as though the cloud
had burst and we had emerged into a new element, a new atmosphere, and
a new society. We traveled six and three quarters miles about a north
of northwest course and then arrived at the foot of the low bluffs
which extend within about ten rods of the river, the latter forming a
large bend northward at this point. At the foot of the bluffs the road
was sandy and very heavy on our teams. Like all other sandy places,
it was perfectly barren, being only a tuft of grass here and there.
After passing over the sand we changed our course to a little north of
west, not, however, leaving the bluffs very far. The river bends again
to the south. We then found the ground hard and good to travel over,
but perfectly bare of grass for upwards of a mile. At five o'clock it
commenced raining very hard accompanied by lightning and thunder and
strong northeast wind. It also changed considerably cooler again. At
five thirty o'clock we formed our encampment on the edge of the higher
bench of prairie. The feed is tolerably good on the bottom but here
there is none at all. We have passed a small grove of fair sized trees,
all green, growing on the islands in the river which are tolerably many
near here, but there is no timber yet on this side of the river. The
brethren pick up drift wood enough to do their cooking. I spent the
evening writing in this journal till half past twelve o'clock, but felt
quite unwell. The distance we have traveled today is eight and a half
miles, during the week seventy-four and a half, making us 514½ miles
from Winter Quarters. There is a creek of clear water about 200 yards
to the south from which the camp obtains what they want.
The morning fair and somewhat more pleasant, although there is yet
appearance for more rain. I felt quite unwell through the night and
also this morning, having severe pain. At nine o'clock most of the
brethren retired a little south of the camp and had a prayer meeting,
and as many as chose to, expressed their feelings. At a little before
twelve they met again in the same spot to partake of the sacrament.
Soon afterwards all the members of the council of the K. of G. in the
camp, except Brother Thomas Bullock, went onto the bluffs and selecting
a small, circular, level spot surrounded by bluffs and out of sight,
we clothed ourselves in the priestly garments and offered up prayer to
God for ourselves, this camp and all pertaining to it, the brethren
in the army, our families and all the Saints, President Young being
mouth. We all felt well and glad for this privilege. The members of the
above council are Brigham Young, Heber C. Kimball, Willard Richards,
Orson Pratt, George A. Smith, Wilford Woodruff, Amasa Lyman, Ezra T.
Benson, Phineas H. Young, John Pack, Charles Shumway, Shadrack Roundy,
Albert P. Rockwood, Erastus Snow, myself, Albert Carrington and Porter
Rockwell. The two latter, having no clothing with them, stood guard
at a little distance from us to prevent interruption. When we started
for the bluffs, there was a heavy black thunder cloud rising from
the southwest, and from all appearance it might rain any minute, but
the brethren believed it would not rain till we got through and if
it did we chose rather to take a wetting than to be disappointed of
the privilege. It kept off remarkably till we got through and got our
clothing on, but soon after it began to rain and after we got to camp
it rained considerably, accompanied by strong wind. I never noticed
the brethren so still and sober on a Sunday since we started as today.
There is no jesting nor laughing, nor nonsense. All appear to be sober
and feel to remember their covenant which makes things look far more
pleasant than they have done heretofore. I spent most of the afternoon
in Elder Kimball's wagon with Elder Kimball, President Young, Lorenzo
and Phineas Young. Read the minutes of President Young's discourse of
yesterday. About five o'clock President Young, Kimball, Benson and
others walked out together to the bluffs. They invited me to go with
them but I was so afflicted with cramps I could scarcely walk, and
after drinking a cup of tea prepared by Ellen Sanders I went to my
wagon and retired to bed early. The evening more pleasant with a light
shower occasionally. Elder Kimball, President Young, and others saw the
Black Hills in the distance from a high bluff.
The morning fine but cool. I feel quite unwell yet and have been sick
all night. At a quarter past eight we proceeded onward, found good
level traveling, the day cool and pleasant. We soon struck a wagon
trail which evidently leads direct to Fort Laramie. At four miles,
passed some high sandy bluffs. Traveled till after twelve and then
turned off a little to the southwest and at half past twelve o'clock
halted for noon at the edge of lower land where there is some short
green grass for our teams. The land we have traveled over this morning
is naked and barren, course west of northwest, distance nine and a
half miles. A high wind from northwest. Latitude 42° 04' 30". Started
again at 3:00 p.m., weather warm and wind ceased. At 6:45 p.m. formed
our encampment on the east bank of a shoal stream about ten feet wide,
having traveled this afternoon seven and a quarter miles, and during
the day sixteen and three quarters. Our course this afternoon a little
north of west. About four miles back, passed some timber on this side
of the river which is the first since the 10th inst, being a distance
of 215 miles without wood for fire, except driftwood, and much of the
time nothing but buffalo chips. The last four or five miles have been
sandy, the ground uneven and very heavy on our teams. The country looks
perfectly barren; in some places there is nothing but a few weeds and
garlick. Some of the brethren picked considerable of the latter to eat.
The feed is very poor indeed, but a little better than four miles back.
John S. Higbee has killed a deer and some of the brethren wounded two
others. This deer which Brother Higbee killed is of the long tailed
species, having a tail more than a half a yard long, and is the first
one I ever saw of the kind. A while after we camped, President Young
and Kimball went to the bluffs and again saw the Black Hills in the
distance. They bowed before the Lord and offered up their prayers
together.
The month of May has passed over and we have been permitted to proceed
so far on our journey, being 531¼ miles from our families in Winter
Quarters, with the camp generally enjoying good health and good
spirits, and although some things have passed which have merited
chastisement, we have the privilege at the closing of the month of
seeing a better feeling, a more noble spirit, and a more general desire
to do right than we have before witnessed. I feel to humble myself and
give God thanks for his continued mercies to me and my brethren and
may His spirit fill our hearts and may His angels administer comfort,
health, peace and prosperity to all our families and all the Saints
henceforth and forever. Amen.