How would you like to be a refugee for four weeks, fleeing from the
horrors and hardships of war? How would you like to be cut off all this
time by mail and cable from relatives and friends? How would you like to
be many thousand miles from home, with little money and no credit,
trying to meet your obligations and at the same time sharing the little
you have with those less fortunate than you are?
This is a brief summary of my experience won from the war. The situation
looked so hopeless because the war came like a thunderbolt out of a
clear sky. I was at Bad Kissingen in Southern Bavaria when the news came
that Austria was threatening Servia with war. Though some of the
alarmists were confident that this meant the beginning of a world war,
the German papers assured the nations that everything was being done to
confine the war to Austria and Servia. Even the Austrian Emperor had
said that his country had started the war and it was up to him to work
out his own salvation.
I was therefore more surprised when the word came on Saturday that
Russia had mobilized for the purpose of crossing the German frontier.
This mere threat seemed to paralyze most of the Americans who were busy
taking their cures in this Bavarian resort, for until then they had only
heard war spoken of at far range. Many of them went mornings and
afternoons to the Kurgarten and tried to drown their sorrows in the
beautiful strains of the Viennese orchestra, which they listened to in a
listless way. The thought uppermost in their minds was how would we get
out if Russia really declared war on Germany?
The most panicky and energetic got busy and left, but most of the
Americans tried to pull themselves together and to wait for further
developments. Our unsteady nerves and heavy hearts were reassured by the
articles in all the German dailies saying that they were doing their
level best to stay out of the fight and to keep the war confined to
Austria and Servia. The foreign diplomats, even of England, gave the
same reassuring reports. This promise of good faith and friendship was
given out on Saturday, so on Sunday when word came that Russia had been
mobilizing for three days to cross the German frontier, it came as a
shock. But Germany still tried to ward it off by granting Russia twelve
hours to give some sort of explanation for this work. This Russia did by
sending some of her forces across the German frontier.
By noon on Sunday our sanitarium was in a pandemonium of excitement, as
it became known that many German officers were being recalled and were
busy packing their trunks to catch the first afternoon train back to the
Prussian capital.
I tore down-stairs two steps at a time. In the hallway I met a German
countess weeping in real sorrow while her grandmother was trying to
console her. When I inquired the reason for all this grief the
grandmother said that her grandsons were officers and had been called to
their different regiments.
In the dining-room that noon there were one hundred and seventy-five
worried men and women of many different nationalities. They were
plotting and planning how they could escape the war, or at least get to
their homes. The Germans had soon decided to leave without any delay for
Berlin, Frankfurt, Munich and other German cities so they could tell
each other goodbye before the men started for war.
The Russian merchants and bankers were alarmed and they started for St.
Petersburg and Moscow to escape being made prisoners in Germany. There
were two Persian princes who hurried to the minister of war and obtained
permission to take out their auto-car and started for Lucerne that very
afternoon. Many Americans who had auto-cars with them made the same
move trying to get to Berlin, The Hague or London, but most of these
were shot at before they had gone very far. The two Persian princes
barely escaped being shot as Turkish spies.
In less than two hours only thirty-five guests were left in the
sanitarium; most of these were Americans and Russians who were wondering
if they had not made a mistake by staying. They were comforted when they
heard the next day that most of the people who had left had not gotten
very far.
The thought that we were living in a military country on the eve of one
of the world's greatest wars was just a little nerve-racking. That
afternoon we took a carriage drive through the woods to one of the
neighboring towns. It was a beautiful summer's day, and it was hard to
think that a terrible war was about to break over this placid scene. The
picture was made more attractive by the many peasants out for their
usual Sunday holiday in their large farm wagons. These carts were
crowded with German families of the usual size, children, parents and
grandparents. Though they did not look jovial, the expression of their
countenances never indicated that they realized that a great war was
pending.
It was after five when my mother and I returned to the sanitarium that
afternoon. I had been resting less than a half-hour in the large hall
when a head-waiter came and threw an extra bulletin in my lap, which
read that Germany had mobilized and declared war.
The men seated near me turned pale; they were too stunned to make any
comment on the situation. I waited until I had calmed myself and then I
bounded up to my room. My mother was resting at the time, and by the way
I tore into the room she must have thought a tiger was about to break
loose from the zoo.
"It's all up! It's all up!" I cried, as I sounded a bell for a porter to
come and help me pack my book-trunk. I cleared the bureau drawers and
the tables and he commenced to pack with as much enthusiasm as though we
were going off to join a regiment. Then I proceeded to take the dresses
out of the wardrobe and began to pile everything high on the beds.
"Have you gone crazy?" my mother said, only to get the determined
answer, "No, but we are off tomorrow," as I continued to add more
clothes to the great pile. I proceeded to explain that I had engaged a
Swiss man to take us across the frontier and then we would decide
whether to go to Holland, Belgium or England.
While talking and working, I failed to notice that one of the nurses had
been in the room giving my mother some medicine and had overheard the
conversation. I was also unaware of the fact that she had gone
down-stairs and told the head-doctor that I was informing the patients
that Germany had declared war. He sent up one of his assistants, who
said that I was creating a panic in his sanitarium. His remarks in
German, translated into English, were somewhat like the following:
"You are an egoist to create all this excitement; don't you know that
the maids are out in the hall crying?"
I answered that I was sorry if any of the women had been made hysterical
by the news but I was in no way responsible for the war.
I soon saw that it was as difficult to combat the egotistical in peace
as in war, so I decided to sit steady and await an opportunity. The next
morning I went down at six-thirty to see what the fifty thousand guests
were doing and how they took the situation. The place about the
music-stand was packed with Germans and German-Americans who were
listening to such strains as "Der Wacht am Rhein," "Deutchland über
Alles," intermingled with our own "Star Spangled Banner." The only
comment made on these strains were the cries of "Hoch! Hoch!" from time
to time. At the other end of the grounds was another mob of men and
women reading the extra bulletin that a Russian regiment had crossed the
frontier and Germany had declared war. The men had a worried look and
the women were pale and anxious, but all showed magnificent control.
There were no cries heard of "Down with Russia!" or "Down with France!"
Many of these Germans were still filled with hope that Sir Edward Grey
would bring these foreign powers to a satisfactory understanding.
It was not until Tuesday that the first men enlisted and martial law was
proclaimed. A large part of the promenade was roped off and guarded by
petty officers. Nobody crossed this plot of ground under penalty of
being shot.
The proclaiming of martial law was a new experience for me, so I stood
behind the ropes for hours at a time, seeing the young men come to the
front, take the oath and enlist. The first regiments were only boys,
still unmarried, living in romance rather than actuality. But I soon
decided that it was not as hard for them to bid their sweethearts
goodbye as it was a little later for fathers to bid their wives and
several clinging children farewell. A week later it was even harder to
see the old men, many of whom had served in the war of '70 and '71,
gladly come forth again to join the rank and file. More than twenty-five
thousand men enlisted in a week. They ranged from nineteen to forty-five
and came from all conditions of life; the richest and the poorest alike
were eager to go and fight and if necessary to die for their country.
They were impatient to change their civilian uniform for the
earth-color uniforms. It was pathetic to see some of them hand over
their old suits to their wives, for I wondered if they would ever use
them again. But they seemed hopeful as they moved on, singing their
favorite military strains. Each regiment had its favorite song; with one
it was "Der Wacht am Rhein," with another "Deutchland über Alles."
This continued for a week, until twenty-five thousand men had been
called out from Bad Kissingen and surrounding country. Most of these
were farmers who had to drop their work before the harvesting of their
grain. This work was turned over to women and children, while young boy
scouts came and volunteered to work on the farms. The men were called
into the different regiments mornings, noons and afternoons, until I
wondered if it would ever stop. They marched off only to form new
regiments. As I climbed the hill one day a middle-aged, kindly woman
said to me in a choked voice, "I am giving everything I have in this
world to this war, my husband and five sons. Four of them are to fight
against France and two against Russia." She controlled her grief as she
spoke, but it was not hard to see that her heart was broken. Many of the
men working in our place were called out without getting a chance to
tell wives or mothers goodbye, while one man confessed modestly that he
was to be the father of a first child in less than two months. In a
week's time the male population was so depleted that it was hard to find
a man walking in town or out in the fields. The few young men left were
so ashamed they had not been taken that they hastened to explain that
they belonged to the Landsturm and that they would be called out during
the next two weeks. That most of them went willingly is shown by the
fact that in a week's time Germany had over a million in arms. When a
young man was refused by one ministry of war he applied to another and
did not give up until he had been refused five or six times. Even the
tear-stained faces of mothers and sweethearts did not influence these
young men from rallying around their flag. These German women were
perfect Spartans and were glad when they had four or five sons to give
to their country. They are trying to do their best to fill the gaps made
by husbands and sons in homes, in the fields and in the shops, taking
their positions in stores, in banks and on street cars.
In a few days these peaceful Bavarian people settled down to their daily
routine. They were not surprised when France as well as Russia declared
war on them, for it was what they naturally expected. But the news that
England also had declared war came as a terrible shock. This news
fanned the fire into a terrible flame and goaded the Germans on to a
point where they felt they must lose all or win all.
Although the Americans were sympathizing with all this sorrow they had
plenty of worries of their own. By half-past eight in the morning and at
three in the afternoon, there were such crowds of people gathered before
the small banks and ticket agents that it was next to hopeless to get in
without being crushed, even if one wanted tickets or money. The Germans,
Russians and English were foremost in these crowds, for the Germans felt
they had to get home while the Russians or English wanted to escape
being taken prisoners. Being an American, I felt that I was well
protected until one morning I was stopped by a German and was accused of
being a Russian. One day two of these men stopped me and I understood
enough of what they were saying to know that they wanted to prove that I
was a spy. Fortunately I had my passport with me, and that was enough to
prove that I was an innocent American looking for friends and money
instead of working with bombs.
The Americans in our sanitarium were fairly quiet until the word came
that the banks were closed; at least, they would only give out money on
German letters of credit. This information was aggravated by the fact
that England had closed the cable in Germany. Paradoxical as it may
seem, it was strange to us that the days moved on just the same, the
days multiplied themselves into a week, and we had a board-bill staring
us in the face with no prospect of money. I thought our host might be
kind enough not to present us with a bill at the end of the week, but it
came in just as usual. I was so angry that I left it there for a week
without looking at it. I soon made up my mind if I could not get out of
Germany the best thing to do was to bring some money into Germany.
I had some friends living in Frankfurt to whom I confided our distress.
I do not know which was more difficult, keeping up a German conversation
over the telephone or assuring them I was hard pressed for money. After
a dozen serious conversations over the 'phone, backed up by a number of
German postals, I got two hundred and fifty dollars from one and
seventy-five dollars from another. I also got two letters from friends,
one from Berlin and the other from Dresden, asking if I needed help, and
I hoisted the signal of distress in a hurry. Only a small part of this
money could be kept as a reserve fund, as we now owed two weeks' board.
Fortunately the banks had opened again and our government had sent
instructions to give us money on our letters of credit, using their own
discretion. I had to wait all day until I could get near a bank, and
then the cashier said one hundred and fifty dollars was all we needed.
When I explained it was not enough he became angry and accused me of
calling him names. He made a terrible fuss in his bank and for a few
moments I thought he would have me arrested. The question of money was
only one of the many difficulties. Germany was so excited by the
presence of spies in her midst that she at times accused the twinkling
stars of being bombs thrown into the air. Determined to rid her country
of spies, she sent policemen accompanied by watchdogs to search the
Russians and to find out the whereabouts of the others. One morning we
were notified we must all present ourselves at the schoolhouse where we
were to exhibit our passports or other credentials. It was really a
funny sight to watch nearly two hundred thousand Russians and Americans
trying to force a way into a small schoolhouse. When the work first
started, the soldiers and first aides tried to arrange the throng in
single, double and triple files, but after half an hour's venture the
rope gave way and the people found themselves where they started. I was
soon tired with the overpowering mob and went home to begin all over in
the afternoon. After two hours hard work we had gone from the first step
to the inner door. The actual work went more quickly, for when the
recorder saw passports marked with the red seal of Washington, D. C., he
was satisfied and asked few questions.
When the German mail man did not appear for a week it gradually dawned
upon us that we were not getting our mail and we wanted to know the
reason for this. We soon found out that if England had closed the cables
Germany had closed the mail, and that we could not have our letters that
were marked U. S. A. until they had been opened and read. Some of the
more energetic Americans went to the German minister of war and
complained. This complaint was sent on to Berlin. After a week's fuming
and worrying they were told that they must go and have their pictures
taken. Every one who wanted his mail had to pay fifty cents for a small,
ugly-looking picture made payable in advance. They presented it at the
ministry of war and only a small number were allowed through the gates
at a time. The most daring of the soldiers teased the Russians about
their names, and even had the impudence to tease the unmarried girls
about their age. By the time they had pasted the pictures upon the
papers, the funny-looking scrawl looked like certificates worthy of a
rogue's gallery. After these minor details had been attended to the
question paramount in our minds was: "How could Uncle Sam bring all his
children home?" There was a rumor that one of our warships, "The
Tennessee," was to be dispatched to the other side to deliver money and
good cheer. We heard that she was also authorized to buy ships, but we
wondered if ships could be bought, and, if they could be, would not the
other nations raise objections. A group of successful business men in
our sanitarium delegated themselves as captains and pilots for an
unknown ship and began studying the map of Europe. There was a great
diversity of opinion as to which way we should go if we went in a body.
First they recommended Switzerland, only to find out that Switzerland
had closed her gates because she feared a food famine. Then they
suggested Italy, but this was vetoed because Italy is hard to reach from
Bavaria and the ships sailing from Italy are very small. One of their
happiest suggestions was Belgium, until they heard that Belgium had been
drawn into the war against her will. I think a few recommended England,
but this was promptly vetoed because England was at war and the channel
was choked with mines. Strangely, no one thought of Holland. In the
leisure moments they busied themselves taking up a collection for the
Red Cross and sending important messages to Gerard, our ambassador in
Berlin. He consoled them by saying there was no immediate danger and
recommended that we send for our consul in Coburg. After patiently
waiting a few more days our vice-consul appeared.
He was shut up for several hours with a delegation who had invited him
down. I have no idea what transpired at that important meeting, for no
new work was undertaken to get us out of Germany. He was busy telling us
about his hardships and that it had taken him thirty hours to make a
five-hour trip. He got busy looking after the passports of those who
were fortunate enough to have them and making a record of those who
wanted them. He promised to get them emergency passports signed with the
biggest red seals he had. As he spoke to each one of us in turn he asked
for the name of some relative or friend in the United States, adding
that if anything happened to us he could notify our friends at home.
When the Americans worried him about how we should get home, he assured
us that transports would be sent over in due time to get us all back
safely.
On hearing this, my mother brought me before the vice-consul and asked
him what he thought of our going to Holland by way of Berlin. The very
question seemed to frighten him, for he argued that if it took
thirty-two hours to make a five-hour trip, it might take weeks to go
from Bavaria to Holland. He was sure that some of the tracks had been
pulled up and that some of the rails and bridges might be laid with
bombs. He argued that even if we escaped these difficulties we might be
thrown out on the fields any time and might have to run miles crossing
the frontiers. He said that the small coupés were so crowded with people
that he had seen men and women stand at the stations for hours while the
more fortunate ones were crushed into third-class coupés or into baggage
cars. My mother was then resolved not to move until our government
should send transports to take us home and we should go home in a
private car. I said nothing, but had my eyes set on Holland as my goal.
A few days later I happened to go into the Holland American agency and
told the man to wire to Rotterdam and see if he could get us a room. To
my surprise and delight I was informed the following week that we could
have a whole cabin on the Rotterdam, sailing on the 29th of August. Then
my mother refused to pay the fifty dollars down, for she was confident
that the Holland American ships would not run. I kept her in the office
to hold the telegram while I tore up hill to consult a successful
business man from St. Louis as to whether I should pay fifty dollars
down on what seemed to be a good chance. He argued that woman's
intuition was often better than a man's reason and that I should follow
out my original plan. I won my mother over to our way of thinking by
telling her what she had still left in American Express checks and that
she could use them instead of money. When we had secured a cabin I felt
as rich as John Bull does since he has secured control of the English
Channel. Hardly a day passed but I looked at the ticket to see that it
had not been lost. Then I began to tell people at the sanitarium and
wired my friends in Berlin advising them how to get out of Germany.
By this time the first mobilization was over and there was an interim of
about ten days before the calling of the Landsturm, which meant the boys
from twenty-one to twenty-five and the men from forty to forty-five.
The ticket agent told us that we could go at any time, that the longer
we waited the worse it would become, and that by delay we were
considerably reducing our chances for getting away. He could sell us
tickets for a stretch but that there were no more through tickets to be
had. In contradiction to this statement, the doctor who had the
sanitarium said that he had been at a committee meeting of the railroads
and they admitted that there were many hardships in trying to get away
at present. Every day I noticed men and women hurrying to the station
carrying their hand luggage, and letting the maids from the pensions
carry their small trunks.
There was an Hungarian couple at our sanitarium who had been waiting
for weeks to get back to Budapest. One day the woman told me she had
bought provisions for five days and they were going to start the next
morning, for she thought they could make the trip in five days. This
gave me new courage, for I believed that if she could get back to
Budapest I could get to Berlin. At the same time I heard that
long-distance telephone connections with Berlin had been reopened. After
trying for some hours, I made a connection and got some friends who were
stopping there. To my surprise, they told me that our Embassy in Berlin
had chartered a special train and they were to be off in the morning.
Still, I did not give up hope that I would meet them in Holland. The
next morning I went off and bought two dress-suitcases and a straw
basket, which were to hold my most prized treasures. I put on my good
spring suit, jammed three good dresses and more than a dozen waists, set
aside one winter hat, and a cape to carry on my arm. Then I proceeded to
unpack the jewelry case and put the jewelry into satchels.
By the time I was ready to get my Swiss courier he was gone, so I had to
take a swarthy German, who had acted as interpreter at the post-office,
as a substitute. When the doctor called that afternoon and saw a
stranger in my mother's room he wanted to know what he was doing. I
admitted that we were planning to leave the next day and intended taking
him as our aide. Another storm broke on the calm, for the doctor argued
that neither was my mother strong enough nor I courageous enough to make
the journey alone. I said little but thought much, and was determined
that it must be now or never. I ate up in my room that evening, for I
did not want to talk it over with anybody and wanted to finish on my own
impulse. Our chambermaid, Marie, was both surprised and worried when she
heard that we were going, and said: "Think over it well, for the
geheimrath knows best." That night I was so feverish that I could not
sleep and I told my mother that she must decide for herself, but that my
advice was for her to go. In the morning there was another discussion as
to whether I should take my French books and notebooks. My mother and
maid said that if they were found on me I would be arrested as a spy,
but I was determined to take a chance and I am glad now that I did.
A strange incident occurred that morning when the Swiss man whom I had
at first secured returned, and the German appeared a few minutes later.
Our maid and a porter favored the Swiss man, so I compromised by paying
the other man five dollars for his trouble. I left my mother to pack
the odds and ends and to give the final decision that we were going
while I went back to the minister of war to get the permission to leave.
We took our luncheon in our room as we did not wish to be bombarded with
questions, but a number of friends heard that we were going and they
came to wish us Godspeed, brought us candy and cookies, and begged us to
take letters to friends across the sea.
When we reached the station we found it guarded and patroled by soldiers
and no one could pass the gate without showing both a ticket and pass.
It was even more difficult to get three seats in a coupé, for a Russian
family was taking care of a sick man and said they had only places for
their nurses. When we ventured into another compartment a German woman
with her grandson tried to keep us out. After we had become friendly she
admitted her reason was that I looked like a Russian and she refused to
ride in the same compartment with a Russian woman.
We only rode a short distance when we had to get down and wait for
another train going toward Berlin. We loaded up our compartment with six
bottles of strawberry selzer, as we were more thirsty than hungry. At
six o'clock we found ourselves seated in a small primitive station
restaurant crowded with people. Among them were several active officers
and a number of retired officers on their way to Berlin. After supper I
was talking with one of the petty officers, who said that they were
hopeful though they knew they had hard battle ahead. Moreover, they
would never forget the friendly attitude America had shown them in this
terrible world war. It was twelve o'clock before we were allowed to go
through the gates and another hour before our train pulled out. The
conductor explained that we would have to wait an hour until an Italian
train had passed. He suggested that we should take great care in
crossing the railroad tracks and when we got into our seats we should
not change, the reason I do not know. There were signs posted on the
window, "Keep your heads in and beware of bombs." This frightened my
mother so that she would not move, but I was too curious to see what was
going on outside to obey orders. For one hour a half-dozen guards went
over the tracks looking for bombs and then they came into our coupé
looking for spies. At one o'clock we were wondering if we would ever
reach Berlin without being blown up with bombs. I had a weird, strange
feeling, for I saw heads now and then bobbing up in the distance. I
thought they were ghosts at first, but finally discovered that they were
only cavalrymen riding in the baggage car. It was nearly four o'clock
when I became so exhausted that I could keep awake no longer and slept
for an hour and a half in an upright position. My travelling companions,
including my mother and a Norwegian woman going to Christiania, were
more fortunate in this respect. We had breakfast at Weimar, and I could
hardly think of this lovely Saxon city and the center of German culture,
the home of Goethe and Schiller, being disturbed by war. The large
station was crowded with soldiers watching for spies. As usual, one of
the soldiers believed that I was a Russian, and he was surprised to find
my passport identified me as an American. I should not have minded being
thought a Russian if they had not looked upon the most unsuspected
people of Russia as spies. We reached Erfurt, which is known as the
garden of Germany, for its beautiful flowers. Here my mother introduced
me to a handsome German boy, seventeen years old, who had volunteered
and was hurrying to Kiel to be accepted into the navy.
That day we counted thirty-two transports carrying German soldiers
toward France, and it was only after I had seen them that I knew what
German organization meant. In the baggage car was the cavalry—every man
to his horse, and all had been instructed that consideration for horses
came before themselves. The cannon and other field provision were on
tracks, but I was told that the powder and dynamite was carried at
night instead of in daytime. There were many automobiles with Red Cross
doctors and officers accompanied by chauffeurs, who were to carry them
into the enemy's country. Everywhere one met courage and enthusiasm.
Essential marks showed printed in chalk on trains—"We shall eat our
Christmas dinner in Paris" and "It is a short way from Berlin to Paris."
After luncheon I walked through the town down into the deep valley,
where hundreds of young men were lying in the grass waiting to be
enrolled that afternoon. At the end was a garden with a large house
which was being turned into a hospital for wounded soldiers, and I saw a
number of Red Cross nurses and doctors getting things into shape. At
three o'clock a military train came along carrying soldiers to Berlin.
There was only one coupé vacant and that contained a high officer and
another high official. The officer was kind enough to get out and make
room for us. It was long after twelve o'clock when we reached Berlin,
and we noticed that the big bridges connecting the city were well
protected with soldiers. Thousands of women and children were waiting to
see the American refugees hurrying to Berlin, or soldiers hastening to
spend a few hours with relatives before they went to war. Except for
these great crowds at the station there was no disorder, and it was hard
to imagine that the Prussian capital was in the throes of such a mighty
war. Our hotel was out in the Thiergarten, the loveliest part of Berlin,
and was cool even in summer weather. The hotel manager was a Dutchman,
and he had great sympathy with the American refugees. He was kind enough
to say that if he met any Americans he would keep them there as long as
they wanted to stay on credit. Next morning, bright and early, we
hurried off to the Embassy, which is a handsome and imposing building
near to the German Embassy. Though it was only half-past nine, there
were more than three hundred people waiting to get in. A number of young
officials were trying their best to line the people up in double files
and to keep order. Here again I had great difficulty in proving my
identity. It was only after I showed my passport that I was allowed to
enter. Within the doorway there was a jolly negro trying to keep the
women happy—his aide was a German who was doing his best to try and
keep order. This was no light task, as our Embassy was looking after the
affairs of the English, French and Russians along with its own. A number
of college boys waiting to be returned home had offered their services
and were assisting the clerks in their work. Our Embassy had been so
overburdened with work that Mrs. Gerard was there all day long helping
her husband. This work included giving out of passports, the O. K.-ing
of passports, selling of tickets on special trains and the giving out of
money to stranded Americans.
The expressions of the people waiting outside seemed to say I care for
nothing save "Home, Sweet Home" or "Take me back to Grigsby's station."
After getting our passports signed we were told to come back next day
for our tickets for the special train. In the meantime we had to turn
over our passports to the German minister of war and get them back at
our own Embassy. The rest of the time was put in visiting a few of the
galleries left open, watching the great crowds of people that surged
around the Emperor's house, trying to get a glimpse of him, and in
trying to get the latest news of war from our own papers. Sunday morning
I went up to the Dom Church, the great church of Berlin, which was
packed to the doors with German men and women bent in solemn prayer. For
the Landsturm had been called out that morning and thousands of men knew
that they would have to be off to the war in the morning. At noon, when
the many church doors were thrown open, thousands of people passed out,
the men with heads uncovered, the women pale and earnest, but all
resigned and willing to do their best. All eyes were bent to the palace,
for the lowered flag showed that the Emperor was at home making his
preparations for leaving that night. This was the first day for a week
that there had been quiet around the palace. Until Sunday thousands of
people were gathered all day long singing the Kaiser's favorite songs
and shouting "Hoch! Hoch!" every time they caught a glimpse of him, and
especially when he ventured out on the balcony to make a speech to his
people. That afternoon hundreds of people gathered with their children
in the Thiergarten to enjoy the animals and to listen to the military
band play many patriotic airs. This was the last peaceful Sunday that
hundreds of husbands spent with their families. Next morning many a
tired woman commenced to work to help the Red Cross, and to put the
different hospitals and royal homes that had been turned into hospitals
ready for the wounded soldiers. The Empress did her share, and the Crown
Princess gave one of her palaces for this work. On every street corner
there were young girls and women hard at work getting contributions for
the Red Cross. Berlin became so deserted of men that it was next to
impossible to find men salesmen in the shops, while they were even
trying the women out as conductors on the street cars. The banks were
more than half emptied of their clerks and the police work was being
done by the older men.
Our special train that was to take us to Holland left on Tuesday, so we
had to be at the Embassy on Monday for our tickets. Though the tickets
were not sold until eleven o'clock that morning, by nine many were
waiting patiently to put in their orders. There were first, second and
third class tickets sold, but these could only be bought by Americans. I
tried to get one for our Swiss courier, but I was told that this was a
special train for Americans, and so I had to leave him behind. As I look
back to those few days spent in Berlin, many pleasant incidents in the
midst of the Prussian capital in the throes of a world war recur to
mind. One of these was the approach of the Kaiser, accompanied by a high
government official, as they rode through the Brandenburger Thor along
Unter den Linden to the ministry of war. He was simply swarmed by his
people, who yelled, "Unser Kaiser! Unser Kaiser! Hoch! Hoch!" Although
he appreciated their loyalty and patriotism, his face showed great care
and worry and he seemed to have grown ten years older in a few weeks.
A pathetic incident was the great crowds of people who came and went out
of the Dom Church Sunday morning, where they went to pray for strength
and resignation. The crowd was so great that only Germans were allowed
to enter church that morning. It was an inspiring sight to see men of
all ages, accompanied by their wives, children or sisters, come out
with resolute faces, realizing the danger but determined to give their
all for the cause.
It was Tuesday afternoon that our special train was ready at five
o'clock to take us from Berlin into Holland. Though the train was not
ready much before five, hundreds of anxious Americans were on the
platform by three in the afternoon. Most of them had plenty to do in the
two hours before our train pulled out. Some had to look after their
trunks, make sure that they were being placed in the baggage car, while
those who were not fortunate enough to have trunks with them discussed
at length the probability or lack of probability of ever having their
luggage again. There were many people lost in the crowds; mothers had to
look for their children, wives for their husbands. A large delegation of
newspaper men and publishers appeared with high mounds of literature on
the war, begging the Americans to see that this reading matter should be
scattered broadcast in our country. Even more interesting were the
crowds of American women left behind, who brought all the way from one
to a dozen letters, asking us to post them when we reached New York.
Many had tears in their eyes as they asked this favor, and not a single
man or woman on that special train was hard-hearted enough to refuse.
Among the number of women who came to me with letters was a sweet-faced
brunette about thirty. She said that she had just made her début in
Berlin with much success as a singer. This was what she had told her
husband, along with the fact that she was living in a nice pension where
she had become acquainted with a well-known tenor and his family, who
were taking good care of her until she would be able to come home. She
gave me all this information because her letter was written in German,
and she feared I might not take it unless I knew its contents. In less
than a quarter of an hour's time she returned with a large bouquet of
roses, saying this was a mere expression of her appreciation.
Our train pulled out at five o'clock sharp with much yelling and waving
of handkerchiefs and fans. Out of this noise one heard the cry,
"Godspeed!" "Give my love to all the dear ones at home!" "Good luck!"
"Auf wiedersehen!" which was answered by the refrain of the song,
"Deutchland über Alles!"
This special train was packed with anxious-looking men, women and
children. They seemed so happy to get out of a land of war into one of
peace, that they never grumbled at the thought of sitting in a day coach
thirty hours without any sleep except what they got napping.
All along the line we saw beautiful fields waiting for the harvest to
be taken in by the women and children. They were doing their best to
supplement the work of their fathers and older brothers. Whenever they
noticed our train pass and realized that we were Americans they waved
their hands and shouted in friendly greeting. Our coupé had four seats,
so by taking turns every one got a chance to rest an hour or two.
It was not until two o'clock the next day that our train reached
Bentheim, which is on the Dutch frontier. Our train did not pull up to
the platform as usual, so all the passengers in turn had the pleasure of
taking a three-foot leap. This was the German side, so our luggage had
to be examined before we could pass over the Dutch frontier. There were
only two ticket windows for nearly three thousand people, so we were
wedged in like sardines. There were no porters to carry our hand
luggage, so we had to hoist it on as best we could. A short ride brought
us to the Dutch frontier, where we were all told to get down and have
our luggage, even to our hand luggage, examined again. As we could not
get any porters many of us refused to get down, with the plea that we
were refugees and not tourists.
When the custom officials saw that some of us stood firm, they boarded
the train and examined our things in a superficial way. The more
obedient, who did as they were told, fared badly by their obedience.
There was such a mix-up inside that many came back minus valises,
dress-suitcases, carry-alls, steamer coats, and even lost their seats in
their coupés. The passengers were divided between Amsterdam, Rotterdam
and The Hague. A large number of these were without steamer passage, but
they were hurrying to Rotterdam determined to get something, even if it
was steerage. There were plenty who had boarded our train without a
dollar in their pockets beyond a railroad ticket to help them out, and
they were trusting to good luck or what friendships they might make on
the way for help. Many were loud in their praise of Mr. and Mrs. Gerard
for the friendly advice and the financial aid they had been given by
them. In spite of the hardships endured by the financial embarrassment,
loss of trunks, lack of sleep, there was much humor and joviality, which
is so valuable to the American people in difficult situations.
It was after one o'clock when we reached Wassenaar, a small suburb of
The Hague. The hotel had been originally built for a golf club. It was a
large, red brick building, set in a beautiful garden with such wonderful
flowers as only Holland can grow. Surrounded by this splendid wealth of
scenery, it was hard to imagine ourselves in the midst of countries that
might be racked and ruined by war. The next morning we visited the
Palace of Peace, handsome but imposingly simple. As we looked upon its
splendid rooms, decorated with pictures dedicated to peace, it seemed a
blasphemy to God and man that such a building should remain if men are
to fight out their differences with the cruel weapons of modern warfare.
For a short time we abandoned these disquieting thoughts and visited
some of the lovely Dutch shops, where we found a few inexpensive
souvenirs for our friends who were anxiously awaiting us at home. We had
our luncheon in a quaint Dutch restaurant where dainty sandwiches and
Dutch cakes were served on the prettiest of Delft china.
Then we hurried to our Embassy to find out if the Tennessee had landed,
as we all expected letters and hoped for money from home. One of the
clerks said that the Tennessee was expected in England that day and
would probably reach the Dutch coast in a day or two. Our Embassy was
crowded with Americans asking for passports, money and information. Mr.
Van Dyke and his clerks, assisted by boy scouts, were working overtime
to gratify all these demands.
A number of our clerks looked anxious that afternoon, as gossip had it
that the German Consul had been called back to Berlin that day, and if
Holland were thrown into war she would flood her entire country in less
than twenty-four hours' time. Our men thought it was an exaggerated
rumor, but still they were advising people to leave Holland as early as
possible. As we hurried along the streets and past the vacant lots, we
saw hundreds of soldiers going through their daily exercises so that
they could join the regular army when needed.
There was a great crowd of people waiting before the palace, anxious to
see their Queen start off for a daily drive. Soon the automobile
appeared, carrying the Queen and a friend for a drive out in the woods.
Though she has grown older she is as sweet and girlish as ever. Her
friendly smile shows that she has the determination to meet cheerfully
the most difficult situations that may confront her before the war is
finished.
We were about to take the 'bus up to our hotel when one of our friends
stopped us and said, "Are you willing to leave tonight if I can secure
passage for us four on the Ryndam?" I was so surprised by this question
that I thought our friend, who had been studying in one of the German
clinics, was losing his mental balance as a result of overstudy and war
talk.
"Go tonight!" I exclaimed. "Why, we only came at one o'clock this
morning. No, indeed; war or no war, I want one week of rest in this
lovely, peaceful country."
"This is no time to romance," he explained. "You can enjoy pastoral
beauties in our own U. S. A. There is talk that Holland may go to war
tonight. If she does she certainly will flood the country before she
stands for any nonsense such as Belgium has." With this he helped us
into the 'bus and boarded the five-o'clock train for Rotterdam, to take
his chance of getting four tickets at the eleventh hour.
When I got on to my splendid terrace window overlooking the garden I was
ready to sell out at any price. I argued that it was better to be shot
than to go crazy, and I knew that fifty-six hours without sleep or three
days and nights without sleep in a week was too much of a strain. The
beauty of these rosebeds and ponds seemed to comfort my jaded nerves
more than the happy thoughts of home.
So I took tea on the terrace and forgot all about an ocean voyage until
the face of my watch announced it was six o'clock and time to pack. By
seven our little party of three were ready for supper, but we had no
idea whether we were going to stay that night. We had two auto-cars for
our party of eight, in case the added four joined the two couples who
had passage secured on the Ryndam.
Our friends waited until nine and then they got ready to go, fearing
that they might miss their boat if they were detained any longer. They
suggested that they would give all the assistance they could, even to
besieging the captain to wait a little longer.
By ten the guests started to retire and most of the lights had been put
out. The doctor's wife, who was a young married woman, tried to read an
exciting story in one of the English monthlies, but she was so worried
about her husband I am confident she did not know a word she was
reading.
We tried to get the Holland American line at Rotterdam but the wires
were not working—were out of order. Shortly before twelve o'clock we
got a telegraph message sent over the telephone which said, "Tell the
Americans to come to the Ryndam at once." The message sounded so
strange, and, being unsigned, we feared it might be a plot to get us and
that we were being suspected as spies. This did not frighten the
doctor's wife, who insisted on going and looking for her husband. We
gave orders for the automobile to be called, and the man answered he did
not want to make an hour and a half trip at that time of night. I
answered that he must come around at once and set his price. It was
nothing more nor less than forty dollars, and he insisted on having
every gulden of it before he would turn the crank of the car. There were
a number of other delays, for we could not find a porter, and the room
waiter refused to carry our baggage to the car. Then the manager had
promised to take us to Rotterdam, but he said it was too late for him to
venture out in such times, and it was only when we offered the house
porter a five-dollar bill that he consented to sit on the box with a
revolver in his hip pocket.
Then our punctilious proprietor delayed us with our bill, for he was
more anxious that he should not charge us one cent too much or too
little than that we should catch our boat. We were even further delayed
by feeing the help, who still stood around for their tips while our
escort explained that money spoke in war times.
Finally we were off, and certainly this midnight ride compares favorably
with Paul Revere's famous ride. I do not know how many kilometers we
covered per hour, but I do know that if anything had bounced against us
or we against anything we would not have lived to tell the tale. We went
through deep woods, dark streets, through small villages and through
long, narrow dams at breakneck speed. We had the right of way except for
the tolls that had to be raised, for the soldiers watching at a distance
and for an occasional drunkard that tumbled into the streets. We went so
fast that every time our automobile took a bridge it flew several feet
into the air. It was only kind Providence watching over us that saved us
from being shot as spies—at least being taken prisoners. It was one
o'clock when we entered the Holland American office and gave up a good
cabin on the Rotterdam for two berths in the auxiliary cabin on the
Ryndam.
As we came on board we saw our ambassador, Mr. Van Dyke, tell some of
his friends goodbye and wish them Godspeed. We stopped to hear some
people exclaim, "My, that was a splendid speech—I guess he is sorry he
is not going home—well, if a man wishes to be an ambassador he must do
his duty and watch his people—I wonder how many of us will take his
advice and keep neutral in thought on this trip." As soon as we got on
board we found that ours was not a choice cabin. It was one of the forty
cabins made in a week in the hold of the boat usually made to keep the
trunks.
I decided not to go to our cabin that night, as it was nearly two
o'clock before the boat pulled out, and then we sat around and chatted
some time about the mines in the channel and the possibility of our boat
striking one and being blown to pieces. When we tired of sitting on deck
we went down into the dining salon and slept on benches in impromptu
manner. To tell the truth of the matter, we were reaching a point where
a few hours seemed a luxurious amount of sleep. Many who did not find
the early morning air too brisk camped out on steamer chairs outside.
Next morning my mother and I went down to see what our cabin was like.
After reaching the lower deck we had to climb down a small ladder to get
to our room. The company had tried to make the hold attractive by
arranging palms and flowers around the walls. The center of the hall was
usurped by trunks, for about one-third of the first-class passengers had
been fortunate enough to save their baggage. Some of the flat trunks
were useful, for they served as chairs and benches when our cabins
became too crowded during the day.
Much to our surprise, we found that our small cabin was designed for
four people, though it was only large enough for two during the day. I
gave my mother the lower berth, and then the question became pertinent
how was I to scramble into the upper one. I made many futile attempts
trying to bolt and then taking a turn at the ladder. I succeeded in
reaching the last step, but only went so far as bumping my head against
the ceiling when I tried to crawl in.
The lady who had the other lower berth soon saw that my efforts were
futile, and since she was extremely slight she kindly offered me her
lower berth. Unknown to the authorities, we sent the fourth occupant
into our friend's room and reduced the number to three. Thus we had one
less person in our room than the rest of the people in the auxiliary
cabin, but we found out that there were just two too many when rough
weather came.
Though everybody on board that boat had said the day before they were
willing to ride steerage and to suffer all conceivable hardships without
complaint, providing they could get away from warlike Europe, our
captain confessed that he never met so many complaining people at one
time in his life.
This was just a little annoying to him when he remembered that he had
already been placed as a naval officer on a Dutch man-of-war, and he had
only been recalled because he knew where the mines lay, and the company
felt he was competent to steer our ship safely out of the harbor.
Many of the passengers only muttered in a low voice as long as they were
in the channel, for they feared the floating mines, though not a single
mine broke loose and floated near our vessel. We were met by a number of
English naval war boats. The ugliest of these was a small torpedo boat
which stopped us before we were out of the English Channel. Our boat
cried "Halt!" as soon as we saw this little English racer coming toward
us with her guns leveled toward our bow. As soon as we were near enough
to hear her words one of her officers gave the following queries: "Where
do you come from?" "From Holland," was the prompt reply. "What have you
on board?" "A cargo of humans," answered the captain, loud and clear.
"Where are you bound for?" came the pertinent answer.
"For New York," they were told. Then came the fearless command:
"You may follow me to Scilly Island, where we will examine your papers,
and if they are satisfactory you may go on unmolested."
It was just luncheon time when our boat stopped and two of the English
officers came on board to examine our papers. Before going up to the
bridge he went down into the hold and looked at the baggage and into the
cabins. After examining our papers carefully they found the nearest
approach to German enemies were naturalized German Americans. With
English tact, they chatted with some of the men awhile and then went
down the side of the boat and were off.
We encountered a number of English men-of-war on our way out of the
English Channel but were only held up twice. As soon as they saw our
papers signed up by the first man-of-war they let us go very promptly.
As soon as we got out of the channel away from mines and men-of-war our
tired, jaded refugees began to nag the purser from early morning till
late at night. There were those who said that they consented to go
steerage because they thought steerage was fixed up like first cabin.
When they saw that their complaints were futile they sent over one
socialist leader to have it out with the overworked purser. The
passenger exclaimed: "I tell you it is an outrage, we are not immigrants
but good American citizens. I do not look like an influential man here
but I am a strong factor in the socialist party in New York, and I will
make this company look sick when I get there."
In marked contrast to this burly, rough man was the refined New England
woman, a professor in one of our leading girls' colleges. She begged the
purser to try and find three berths for her and two of her colleagues in
either the first or second cabin, and asked if he in the meantime would
see that the steerage was cleaned up and made a little more comfortable.
A few days later I saw this professor walking on the first promenade
deck telling some of her friends she felt like a culprit taking a
first-class berth while her friends were left behind. More than a
half-dozen worthies were brought over from the third cabin to the first.
A college girl was among this number, who had been travelling with her
brother. She had gotten into our cabin by mistake, and when I explained
to her that her room was around the corner she begged me to leave her
things in our room until she found her cabin, and she said: "I was in
hysterics for joy when my brother took me out of the third class, and I
know I shall die if I have to go back there."
There was a talented blind boy pianist who had been travelling with a
friend giving concerts abroad and a committee of wealthy men brought him
into the first class; he had such a sweet, kind face, I am sure he was
as uncomplaining among the steerage as he was after he had been provided
with a comfortable berth. Though there were not enough first-class
cabins for all the women and children found in the third, the committee
of wealthy men went down every day and saw that the steerage was kept as
clean as possible. But there were just as many complaints among the
first-class passengers, for those down in the auxiliary cabins tried to
get rooms on the promenade deck, or at least have the privacy of their
own rooms. Most of them who were at all comfortably placed found their
complaints useless.
Gradually these passengers became more resigned, for we had five days of
rough weather, and many of them were too seasick to worry about where
they could lay their heads. A few of the humorous people on board soon
discovered that the auxiliary cabins were all marked four hundred, so we
dubbed ourselves "The Four Hundred"; because of the flowers we dubbed
it the Palm Garden or the Ritz Carlton. As soon as the weather
moderated some of the enthusiastic women were busy getting up a Red
Cross collection for Germany. Then there was a petition gotten up by
some German Americans, thanking the Germans for the kindly treatment the
Americans had been accorded. The men in the meanwhile occupied
themselves wondering if the stock exchange had been closed, discussing
the merchants' marine and the duty of our increasing the navy.
One night we had a terrible electric storm which was a beautiful sight.
It was so strong it fairly lit up the rooms, but every time a crash came
we thought our end was near. The women, who were most afraid of the
storm felt doomed; they got dressed and went up into the upper cabin,
concluding that they would rather be shot at by cannon than to be
drowned at sea. The climax to all of our troubles was the making out of
our declaration and being held in quarantine at Ellis Island. Many
objected to this treatment and argued that they were good American
citizens and not immigrants. This was not much more than a form, for the
health officers only glanced at our papers. It is strange what an
influence this war had on women's consciences. There was not one woman
who had been born in this country, though she had lived abroad several
years, that wished to call herself a non-resident. In spite of heavy
luggage lost the women were so glad to get home that they made most
honest declarations. As our boat landed the dock was so packed it was
hard to distinguish our friends among the thousands standing on land
waving their hands and shouting a welcome home. Since we only had
dress-suitcases left our baggage was soon inspected, and in less than a
half-hour later we found ourselves in a comfortable New York hotel. It
only took a hurried breakfast and a refreshing bath to make me soon
forget my own hardships. Still, I shall never forget the suffering I saw
as I fled from the horrors of war, and I am now confident that the
expression "War is hell" is as sure and true as the fact that there are
stars in heaven.