DESCRIPTION OF SABLE ISLAND; CAPE BRETON; LA HÈVE; PORT AU MOUTON; PORT
CAPE NEGRE; SABLE BAY AND CAPE; CORMORANT ISLAND; CAPE FOURCHU; LONG
ISLAND; BAY OF SAINT MARY; PORT SAINT MARGARET; AND OF ALL NOTEWORTHY
OBJECTS ALONG THIS COAST.
Sieur de Monts, by virtue of his commission [14] having published in all
the ports and harbors of this kingdom the prohibition against the violation
of the monopoly of the fur-trade accorded him by his Majesty, gathered
together about one hundred and twenty artisans, whom he embarked in two
vessels: one of a hundred and twenty tons, commanded by Sieur de Pont
Gravé; [15] another, of a hundred and fifty tons, in which he embarked
himself, [16] together with several noblemen.
We set out from Havre de Grâce April 7th, 1604, and Pont Gravé April 10th,
to rendezvous at Canseau, [17] twenty leagues from Cape Breton. [18] But
after we were in mid-ocean, Sieur de Monts changed his plan, and directed
his course towards Port Mouton, it being more southerly and also more
favorable for landing than Canseau.
On May 1st, we sighted Sable Island, where we ran a risk of being lost in
consequence of the error of our pilots, who were deceived in their
calculation, which they made forty leagues ahead of where we were.
This island is thirty leagues distant north and South from Cape Breton, and
in length is about fifteen leagues. It contains a small lake. The island is
very sandy, and there are no trees at all of considerable size, only copse
and herbage, which serve as pasturage for the bullocks and cows, which the
Portuguese carried there more than sixty years ago, and which were very
serviceable to the party of the Marquis de la Roche. The latter, during
their sojourn of several years there, captured a large number of very fine
black foxes, [19] whose skins they carefully preserved. There are many
sea-wolves [20] there, with the skins of which they clothed themselves
since they had exhausted their own stock of garments. By order of the
Parliamentary Court of Rouen, a vessel was sent there to recover them. [21]
The directors of the enterprise caught codfish near the island, the
neighborhood of which abounds in shoals.
On the 8th of the same month, we sighted Cap de la Hève, [22] to the east
of which is a bay, containing several islands covered with fir-trees. On
the main land are oaks, elms, and birches. It joins the coast of La Cadie
at the latitude of 44° 5', and at 16° 15' of the deflection of the magnetic
needle, distant east-north-east eighty-five leagues from Cape Breton, of
which we shall speak hereafter.
On the 12th of May, we entered another port, [23] five leagues
from Cap de la Hève, where we captured a vessel engaged
in the fur-trade in violation of the king's prohibition. The
master's name was Rossignol, whose name the port retained,
which is in latitude 44° 15'.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
PORT DE LA HÈVE.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. The place where vessels anchor.
B. A small river dry at low tide.
C. Places where the savages have their cabins.[Note: The letter C is
wanting, but the location of the cabins is obvious.]
D. Shoal at the entrance of the harbor. [Note: The letter D is also
wanting, but the figures sufficiently indicate the depth of the
water.]
E. A small island covered with wood. [Note: The letter E appears twice by
mistake.]
F. Cape de la Hève [Note: The letter F is likewise wanting. It has been
supposed to be represented by one of the E's on the small island, but
Cap de la Hève, to which it refers, was not on this island, but on the
main land. The F should have been, we think, on the west of the
harbor, where the elevation is indicated on the map. Vide note 22.]
* * * * *
On the 13th of May, we arrived at a very fine harbor, where there are two
little streams, called Port au Mouton, [24] which is seven leagues distant
from that of Rossignol. The land is very stony, and covered with copse and
heath. There are a great many rabbits, and a quantity of game in
consequence of the ponds there.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S EXPLANATION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
PORT DU ROSSIGNOL.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. A river extending twenty-five leagues inland.
B. The place where vessels anchor.
C. Place on the main land where the savages have their dwellings.
D. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide.
E. Place on the island where the savages have their cabins.
F. Channel dry at low tide.
G. Shore of the main land. The dotted places indicate the shoals.
NOTE. It would seem as if in the title Rossynol, on the map, the two dots
on the y instead of the n were placed there by mistake.
* * * * *
As Soon as we had disembarked, each one commenced making huts after his
fashion, on a point at the entrance of the harbor near two fresh-water
ponds. Sieur de Monts at the Same time despatched a shallop, in which he
sent one of us, with some savages as guides as bearers of letters, along
the coast of La Cadie, to search for Pont Gravé, who had a portion of the
necessary supplies for our winter sojourn. The latter was found at the Bay
of All-Isles, [25] very anxious about us (for he knew nothing of the change
of plan); and the letters were handed to him. As soon as be had read them,
he returned to his ship at Canseau, where he seized some Basque vessels
[26] engaged in the fur-trade, notwithstanding the prohibition of his
Majesty, and sent their masters to Sieur de Monts, who meanwhile charged me
to reconnoitre the coast and the harbors suitable for the secure reception
of our vessel.
With the purpose of carrying out his wishes, I set out from Port Mouton on
the 19th of May, in a barque of eight tons, accompanied by Sieur Ralleau,
his secretary, and ten men. Advancing along the coast, we entered a harbor
very convenient for vessels, at the end of which is a small river,
extending very far into the main land. This I called the Port of Cape
Negro, [27] from a rock whose distant view resembles a negro, which rises
out of the water near a cape passed by us the same day, four leagues off
and ten from Port Mouton. This cape is very dangerous, on account of the
rocks running out into the sea. The shores which I saw, up to that point,
are very low, and covered with such wood as that seen at the Cap de la
Hève; and the islands are all filled with game. Going farther on, we passed
the night at Sable Bay, [28] where vessels can anchor without any danger.
The next day we went to Cape Sable, [29] also very dangerous, in
consequence of certain rocks and reefs extending almost a league into the
sea. It is two leagues from Sable Bay, where we had spent the night before.
Thence we went to Cormorant Island, [30] a league distant, so called from
the infinite number of cormorants found there, of whose eggs we collected a
cask full. From this island, we sailed westerly about six leagues, crossing
a bay, which makes up to the north two or three leagues. Then we fell in
with several islands [31] distant two or three leagues from the main land;
and, as well as I could judge, some of them were two leagues in extent,
others three, and others were still smaller. Most of them are very
dangerous for large vessels to approach, on account of the tides and the
rocks on a level with the water. These islands are filled with pines, firs,
birches, and aspens. A little farther out, there are four more. In one, we
saw so great a quantity of birds, called penguins, [32] that we killed them
easily with sticks. On another, we found the shore completely covered with
sea-wolves, [33] of which we captured as many as we wished. At the two
others there is such an abundance of birds of different sorts that one
could not imagine it, if he had not seen them. There are cormorants, three
kinds of duck, geese, marmettes?, bustards, sea-parrots, snipe, vultures,
and other birds of prey; gulls, sea-larks of two or three kinds; herons,
large sea-gulls, curlews, sea-magpies, divers, ospreys, appoils?, ravens,
cranes, and other sorts which I am not acquainted with, and which also make
their nests here. [34] We named these Sea-Wolf Islands. They are in
latitude 43° 30', distant from four to five leagues from the main land, or
Cape Sable. After spending pleasantly some time there in hunting (and not
without capturing much game), we set out and reached a cape, [35] which we
christened Port Fourchu from its being fork-shaped, distant from five to
six leagues from the Sea-Wolf Islands. This harbor is very convenient for
vessels at its entrance; but its remoter part is entirely dry at low tide,
except the channel of a little stream, completely bordered by meadows,
which make this spot very pleasant. There is good codfishing near the
harbor. Departing from there, we sailed north ten or twelve leagues without
finding any harbor for our vessels, but a number of very fine inlets or
shores, where the soil seems to be well adapted for cultivation. The woods
are exceedingly fine here, but there are few pines and firs. This coast is
clear, without islands, rocks, or shoals; so that, in our judgment, vessels
can securely go there. Being distant quarter of a league from the coast, we
went to an island called Long Island, [36] lying north-north-east and
south-south-west, which makes an opening into the great Baye Françoise,
[37] so named by Sieur de Monts.
This island is six leagues long, and nearly a league broad in some places,
in others only quarter of a league. It is covered with an abundance of
wood, such as pines and birch. All the coast is bordered by very dangerous
rocks; and there is no place at all favorable for vessels, only little
inlets for shallops at the extremity of the island, and three or four small
rocky islands, where the savages capture many sea-wolves. There are strong
tides, especially at the little passage [38] of the island, which is very
dangerous for vessels running the risk of passing through it.
From Long Island passage, we sailed north-east two leagues, when we found a
cove [39] where vessels can anchor in safety, and which is quarter of a
league or thereabouts in circuit. The bottom is all mire, and the
surrounding land is bordered by very high rocks. In this place there is a
very good silver mine, according to the report of the miner, Master Simon,
who accompanied me. Some leagues farther on there is a little stream called
river Boulay [40] where the tide rises half a league into the land, at the
mouth of which vessels of a hundred tons can easily ride at anchor. Quarter
of a league from here there is a good harbor for vessels, where we found an
iron mine, which our miner estimated would yield fifty per cent [41]
Advancing three leagues farther on to the northeast [42] we saw another
very good iron mine, near which is a river surrounded by beautiful and
attractive meadows. The neighboring soil is red as blood. Some leagues
farther on there is still another river, [43] dry at low tide, except in
its very small channel, and which extends near to Port Royal. At the
extremity of this bay is a channel, also dry at low tide [44] surrounding
which are a number of pastures and good pieces of land for cultivation,
where there are nevertheless great numbers of fine trees of all the kinds
previously mentioned. The distance from Long Island to the end of this bay
may be some six leagues. The entire coast of the mines is very high,
intersected by capes, which appear round, extending out a short distance.
On the other side of the bay, on the south-east, the land is low and good,
where there is a very good harbor, having a bank at its entrance over which
it is necessary to pass. On this bar there is a fathom and a half of water
at low tide; but after passing it you find three, with good bottom. Between
the two points of the harbor there is a pebbly islet, covered at full
tide. This place extends half a league inland. The tide falls here three
fathoms, and there are many shell-fish, such as muscles, cockles, and
sea-snails. The soil is as good as any that I have seen. I named this
harbor Saint Margaret. [45] This entire south-east coast is much lower than
that of the mines, which is only a league and a half from the coast of
Saint Margaret, being Separated by the breadth of the bay, [46] which is
three leagues at its entrance. I took the altitude at this place, and found
the latitude 45° 30', and a little more,[47] the deflection of the magnetic
needle being 17° 16'.
After having explored as particularly as I could the coasts, ports, and
harbors, I returned, without advancing any farther, to Long Island passage,
whence I went back outside of all the islands in order to observe whether
there was any danger at all on the water side. But we found none whatever,
except there were some rocks about half a league from Sea-Wolf Islands,
which, however, can be easily avoided, since the sea breaks over them.
Continuing our voyage, we were overtaken by a violent wind, which obliged
us to run our barque ashore, where we were in danger of losing her, which
would have caused us extreme perplexity. The tempest having ceased, we
resumed the sea, and the next day reached Port Mouton, where Sieur de Monts
was awaiting us from day to day, thinking only of our long stay, [48] and
whether some accident had not befallen us. I made a report to him of our
voyage, and where our vessels might go in Safety. Meanwhile, I observed
very particularly that place which is in latitude 44°.
The next day Sieur de Monts gave orders to weigh anchor and proceed to the
Bay of Saint Mary, [49] a place which we had found to be Suitable for our
vessel to remain in, until we should be able to find one more advantageous.
Coasting along, we passed near Cape Sable and the Sea-Wolf Islands, whither
Sieur de Monts decided to go in a shallop, and see some islands of which we
had made a report to him, as also of the countless number of birds found
there. Accordingly, he set out, accompanied by Sieur de Poutrincourt, and
several other noblemen, with the intention of going to Penguin Island,
where we had previously killed with sticks a large number of these
birds. Being somewhat distant from our ship, it was beyond our power to
reach it, and still less to reach our vessel; for the tide was so strong
that we were compelled to put in at a little island to pass the night,
where there was much game. I killed there some river-birds, which were very
acceptable to us, especially as we had taken only a few biscuits, expecting
to return the same day. The next day we reached Cape Fourchu, distant half
a league from there. Coasting along, we found our vessel in the Bay of
Saint Mary. Our company were very anxious about us for two days, fearing
lest some misfortune had befallen us; but, when they saw us all safe, they
were much rejoiced.
Two or three days after our arrival, one of our priests, named Mesire Aubry
[50] from Paris, got lost so completely in the woods while going after his
sword, which he had forgotten, that he could not find the vessel. And he
was thus seventeen days without any thing to subsist upon except some sour
and bitter plants like the sorrel, and some small fruit of little substance
large as currants, which creep upon the ground. [51] Being at his wits'
end, without hope of ever seeing us again, weak and feeble, he found
himself on the shore of Baye Françoise, thus named by Sieur de Monts, near
Long Island, [52] where his strength gave out, when one of our shallops out
fishing discovered him. Not being able to shout to them, he made a sign
with a pole, on the end of which he had put his hat, that they should go
and get him. This they did at once, and brought him off. Sieur de Monts had
caused a search to be made not only by his own men, but also by the savages
of those parts, who scoured all the woods, but brought back no intelligence
of him. Believing him to be dead, they all saw him coming back in the
shallop to their great delight. A long time was needed to restore him to
his usual strength.
ENDNOTES:
14. Vide Commission du Roy au Sieur de Monts, pour l'habitation és terres
de la Cadie, Canada, et autres endroits en la Nouvelle-France,
Histoire de a Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat.
Liv. p. 431. This charter may also be found in English in a Collection
of Voyages and Travels compiled from the Library of the Earl of Oxford,
by Thomas Osborne, London, 1745, Vol. II. pp. 796-798; also in
Murdoch's History of Nova Scotia, Halifax, 1865, Vol. I. pp. 21-24.
15. The second officer, or pilot, was, according to Lescarbot, Captain
Morel, of Honfleur.
16. This was under the direction of De Monts himself; and Captain Timothée,
of Havre de Grâce, was pilot, or the second officer.
17. Lescarbot writes this name Campseau; Champlain's orthography is
Canceau; the English often write Canso, but more correctly Canseau. It
has been derived from Cansoke, an Indian word, meaning facing the
frowning cliffs.
18. The Cape and Island of Cape Breton appear to have taken their name from
the fisherman of Brittany, who frequented that region as early as 1504
—Vide Champlain's Voyages, Paris 1632, p. 9.
Thévet sailed along the coast in 1556, and is quoted by Laverdière, as
follows: "In this land there is a province called Compestre de Berge,
extending towards the south-east: in the eastern part of the same is
the cape or promontory of Lorraine, called so by us; others have given
it the came of the Cape of the Bretons, since the Bretons, the
Bisayans, and Normans repair thither, and coast along on their way to
Newfoundland to fish for codfish."
An inscription, "tera que soy descuberta per pertonnes," on an Old
Portuguese map of 1520, declares it to be a country discovered by the
Bretons. It is undoubtedly the oldest French name on any part of North
America. On Gastaldo's map in Mattiolo's Italian translation of
Ptolemy, 1548, the name of Breton is applied both to Nova Scotia and to
the Island of Cape Breton.
19. Winthrop says that Mr. John Rose, who was cast away on Sable Island
about 1633, "saw about eight hundred cattle, small and great, all red,
and the largest he ever saw: and many foxes, wherof some perfect
black."—Whinthrop's Hist. New Eng., Boston, 1853, Vol. I. p. 193.
Champlain doubtless obtained his information in regard to the cattle
left upon Sable Island by the Portuguese from the from the report of
Edward Haies on the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in 1583:
"Sablon lieth to the seaward of Cape Briton about twenty-five leagues,
whither we were determined to goe vpon intelligence we had of a
Portugal (during our abode in S. Johns) who was himselfe present, when
the Portugals (aboue thirty yeeres past) did put in the same Island
both Neat and Swine to breede, which were since exceedingly multiplied.
This seemed vnto vs very happy tidings, to haue in an Island lying so
neere vnto the maine, which we intended to plant vpon. Such store of
cattell, whereby we might at all times conueniently be relieued of
victuall, and serued of store for breed."—Edward Haies in Hakluyt's
Voyages, London, ed. 1810. Vol. III. p. 197.
20. "Loups marins," seals.
21. "The forty poor wretches whom he left on Sable Island found on the
seashore some wrecks of vessels, out of which they built barracks to
shield themselves from the severity of the weather. They were the
remains of Spanish vessels, which had sailed to settle Cape Breton.
From these same ships had come some sheep and cattle, which had
multiplied on Sable Island; and this was for some time a resource for
these poor exiles. Fish was their next food; and, when their clothes
were worn out, they made new ones of seal-skin. At last, after a lapse
of seven years, the king, having heard of their adventure, obliged
Chedotel, the pilot, to go for them; but he found only twelve, the rest
having died of their hardships. His majesty desired to see those, who
returned in the same guise as found by Chedotel, covered with
seal-skin, with their hair and beard of a length and disorder that made
them resemble the pretended river-gods, and so disfigured as to inspire
horror. The king gave them fifty crowns apiece, and sent them home
released from all process of law."—Shea's Charlevoix, New York,
1866, Vol. I. p. 244. See also Sir William Alexander and American
Colonization, Prince Society, 1873, p. 174; Murdoch's Nova Scotia,
Vol. I. p. 11; Hakluyt, Vol. II. pp. 679. 697.
22. This cape still bears the same name, and is the western point of the
bay at the mouth of a river, likewise of the same name, in the county
of Lunenberg, Nova Scotia. It is an abrupt cliff, rising up one hundred
and fifty feet above the level of the sea. It could therefore be seen
at a great distance, and appears to have been the first land sighted by
them on the coast of La Cadie. A little north of Havre de Grâce, in
Normandy, the port from which De Monts and Champlain had sailed, is to
be seen the high, commanding, rocky bluff, known as Cap de la Hève.
The place which they first sighted, similar at least in some respects,
they evidently named after this bold and striking headland, which may,
perhaps, have been the last object which they saw on leaving the shores
of France. The word Hève seems to have had a local meaning, as may be
inferred from the following excerpt: "A name, in Lower Normandy, for
cliffs hollowed out below, and where fishermen search for crabs."—
Littré. The harbor delineated on Champlain's local map is now called
Palmerston Bay, and is at the mouth of Petit River. The latitude of
this harbor is about 44° 15'. De Laet's description is fuller than that
of Champlain or Lescarbot.—Vide Novus Orbis, 1633, p. 51.
23. Liverpool, which for a long time bore the name of Port Rossignol; the
lake at the head of the river, about ten miles long and two or three
wide, the largest in Nova Scotia, still bears that appellation. The
latitude is 44° 2' 30".
24. "Lequel ils appelèrent Le Port du Mouton, à l'occasion d'un mouton
qui s'estant nové revint à bord, et fut mangé de bonne guerre."—
Histoire de la Nouvelle-France, par Marc Lescarbot, Paris, 1612,
Qvat. Liv. p. 449. It still bears the name of Port Mouton, and an
island in the bay is called Mouton Island.
25. Baye de Toutes-isles. Lescarbot calls it "La Baye des Iles:" and
Charlevoix, "Baye de toutes les Isles." It was the bay, or rather the
waters, that stretch along the shores of Halifax County, between Owl's
Head and Liscomb River.
26. The confiscated provisions taken in the vessels of the Basque
fur-traders and in that of Rossignol were, according to Lescarbot,
found very useful. De Monts had given timely notice of his monopoly;
and, whether it had reached them or not, they were doubtless wrong in
law. Although De Monts treated them with gentleness, nevertheless it is
not unlikely that a compromise would have been better policy than an
entire confiscation of their property, as these Basques afterwards, on
their return to France, gave him serious inconvenience. They were
instrumental mainly in wresting from him his charter of La Cadie.
27. Le Port du Cap Negré. This port still bears the name of Negro
Harbor. It is situated at the mouth of the Clyde, the small river
referred to in the text.
28. Near Cape Sable Island, at what is now known as Barrington Harbor.
29. This is still called Cape Sable, and is the southern point of Sable
Island, or, more properly, the cluster of rock, and islets that
surround its southern extremity.
30. Isle aux Cormorans. It is difficult to distinguish with certainty the
island here referred to, but it was probably Hope Island, as this lies
directly in their way in crossing the bay, six leagues wide, which is
now known as Townsend Bay. The bird here mentioned was the common
cormorant. Graculus carbo, of a glossy greenish-black color, back and
wings bronzy-gray; about three feet in length, and is common on our
northern Atlantic coast: eminently gregarious, particularly in the
breeding season, congregating in vast flocks. At the present time, it
breeds in great numbers in Labrador and Newfoundland, and in the winter
migrates as far south as the Middle States. They feed principally upon
fish, lay commonly two eggs, of a pale greenish color, overlaid with a
white chalky substance.—Vide Cones's Key to Nor. Am. Birds. Boston,
1872. p. 302.
31. A cluster of islands now known as the Tousquet or Tusket Islands.
Further on, Champlain says they named them Isles aux loups marins.
Sea-Wolf Islands. About five leagues south of them is an island now
called Seal Island. The four more which he saw a little further on were
probably in Townsend Bay.
32. This is the Auk, family Alcidae, and must not be confounded with the
penguin of the southern hemisphere, although it is described by the
early navigators of the Northern Atlantic under that appellation. In
Anthony Parkhurst's letter to Hakluyt, 1578, he says: "These birds are
also called Penguins, and cannot flie, there is more meate in one of
these then in a goose: the Frenchmen that fish neere the grand baie, do
bring small store of flesh with them, but victuall themselves alwayes
with these birds."—Hakluyt, London, ed. 1810, Vol. III. p. 172.
Edward Haies, in his report of the voyage of Sir Humphrey Gilbert in
1583, say's: "We had sight of an Island named Penguin, of a foule there
breeding in abundance, almost incredible, which cannot flie, their
wings not able to carry their body, being very large (not much lesse
then a goose), and exceeding fat: which the Frenchmen use to take
without difficulty upon that Island, and to barrell them up with salt."
Idem, p. 191.
The Auk is confined to the northern hemisphere, where it represents the
penguins of the southern. Several species occur in the Northern
Atlantic in almost incredible numbers: they are all marine, feed on
fish and other animal substances exclusively, and lay from one to three
eggs on the bare rocks. Those seen by Champlain and other early
navigators were the Great Auk. Alca impennis, now nearly extinct. It
was formerly found on the coast of New England, as is proved not only
by the testimony of the primitive explorers, but by the remains found
in shell-heaps. The latest discovery was of one found dead near
St. Augustine, in Labrador, in 1870. A specimen of the Great Auk is
preserved in the Cambridge Museum.—Vide Coues's Key to North Am.
Birds, Boston, 1872. p. 338.
33. The sea-wolf or loup marin of Champlain is the marine mammiferous
quadruped of the family Phocidae, known as the seal. Sea-wolf was a
name applied to it by the early navigators.—Vide Purchas's Pilgrims,
London, 1625. Vol. IV. p. 1385. Those here mentioned were the common
seal, Phoca vitulina, which are still found on the coasts of Nova
Scotia, vulgarly known as the harbor seal. They are thinly distributed
as far south as Long Island Sound, but are found in great numbers in
the waters of Labrador and Newfoundland, where they are taken for the
oil obtained from them, and for the skins, which are used for various
purposes in the arts.
34. The names given to these birds were such, doubtless, as were known to
belong to birds similar in color, size, and figure in Europe. Some of
them were probably misapplied. The name alone is not sufficient for
identification.
35. This cape, near the entrance to Yarmouth, still bears the same name,
from fourchu, forked. On a map of 1755, it is called Forked Cape, and
near it is Fork Ledge and Forked Harbor.—Memorials of English and
French Commissaries, London, 1755.
36. It still retains the name given to it by Champlain. It forms a part of
the western limit of St. Mary's Bay, and a line drawn from it to the
St. Croix, cutting the Grand Manan, would mark the entrance of the Bay
of Fundy.
37. The Bay of Fundy was thus first named "Baye Françoise" by De Monts, and
continued to be so called, as will appear by reference to the early
maps, as that of De Laet, 1633; Charlevoix, 1744; Rouge, 1778. It first
appears distinctly on the carte of Diego Homem of 1558, but without
name. On Cabot's Mappe-Monde, in "Monuments de la Géographie," we find
rio fondo, which may represent the Bay of Fundy, and may have
suggested the name adopted by the English, which it still retains. Sir
William Alexander's map, 1624, has Argal's Bay; Moll's map, 1712, has
Fundi Bay; that of the English and French Commissaries, 1755, has Bay
of Fundy, or Argal.
38. This strait, known by the name Petit Passage, separates Long Island
from Digby Neck.
39. A place called Little River, on Digby Neck.
40. Now known as Sandy Cove.
41. Lescarbot says of this iron mine, and of the silver mine above, that
they were proved not to be abundant.
42. This was probably near Rossway.
43. This was clearly Smith Creek or Smelt River, which rises near Annapolis
Basin, or the Port Royal Basin of the French.
44. He here doubtless refers to North Creek, at the north-eastern extremity
of St. Mary's Bay.
45. Now Weymouth Harbor, on the south-eastern shore of St. Mary's Bay, at
the mouth of Sissibou River, and directly opposite Sandy Cove, near the
iron mine mentioned above.
46. The distance across the bay at this point, as here stated, is nearly
accurate.
47. This is clearly a mistake; the true latitude at the Petit Passage is
44° 23'. It may here be remarked that Champlain's latitudes are very
inaccurate, often varying more than half a degree; doubtless owing to
the imperfection of the instruments which were employed in taking them.
48. They had been occupied in this exploration about three weeks, Lescarbot
says a month, but this is an overstatement. By a careful examination of
the text, it will appear that they departed from Port Mouton on the
19th of May, and that several days after their return, not less than
nine, they were again in St. Mary's Bay, on the 16th of June. They had
been absent, therefore, about twenty-one days. The latitude of Port
Mouton, stated a little below to be 44°, is in fact 43° 57'.
49. This bay, still retaining its ancient appellation, was so named by
Champlain on his first visit. "Ceste baye fut nommée la baye Saincte
Marie."—Champlain's Voyages, 1632, Quebec ed., Vol. V. p. 716.
50. Nicholas Aubry, a young Parisian of good family, "vn certain homme
d'Église," as Lescarbot says, probably not long in holy orders, had
undertaken this voyage with De Monts to gratify his desire to see the
New World, though quite against the wishes of his friends, who had sent
in vain to Honfleur to prevent his embarkation. After the search made
by De Monts, with the sounding of trumpets and the discharge of cannon,
they left St. Mary's Bay, having given up all expectation of his
recovery. Some two weeks afterward, an expedition was Sent out to
St. Mary's Bay, conducted by De Champdoré, an experienced pilot, with a
mineralogist, to search for silver and iron ore. While Some of the
party were on a fishing excursion, they rescued him, as stated in the
text. The safe return of the young and too venturesome ecclesiastic
gave great relief to De Monts, as Lescarbot says a Protestant was
charged to have killed him, because they quarrelled sometimes about
their religion.—Vide Histoire de Nouvelle-France, par Mare
Lescarbot, Paris, 1612, Qvat. Liv. p. 453.
51. The partridge-berry, Mitchella, a trailing evergreen, bearing scarlet
berries, edible but nearly tasteless, which remain through the winter.
It is peculiar to America, and this is probably the first time it was
noticed by any historical writer.
52. He was on the western side of Digby Neck, at its southern extremity,
near the Petit Passage on the shore of the Bay of Fundy.
DESCRIPTION OF PORT ROYAL AND THE PECULIARITIES OF THE SAME.—ISLE HAUTE.—
PORT OF MINES.—BAYE FRANÇOISE.-THE RIVER ST. JOHN, AND WHAT WE OBSERVED
BETWEEN THE PORT OF MINES AND THE SAME.—THE ISLAND CALLED BY THE SAVAGES
MANTHANE.—THE RIVER OF THE ETECHEMINS, AND SEVERAL FINE ISLANDS THERE.—
ST. CROIX ISLAND, AND OTHER NOTEWORTHY OBJECTS ON THIS COAST.
Some days after, Sieur de Monts decided to go and examine the coasts of
Baye Françoise. For this purpose, he set out from the vessel on the 16th of
May,[53] and we went through the strait of Long Island.[54] Not having
found in St. Mary's Bay any place in which to fortify ourselves except at
the cost of much time, we accordingly resolved to see whether there might
not be a more favorable one in the other bay. Heading north-east six
leagues, there is a cove where vessels can anchor in four, five, six, and
seven fathoms of water. The bottom is sandy. This place is only a kind of
roadstead.[55] Continuing two leagues farther on in the same direction, we
entered one of the finest harbors I had seen along all these coasts, in
which two thousand vessels might lie in security. The entrance is eight
hundred paces broad; then you enter a harbor two leagues long and one
broad, which I have named Port Royal.[56] Three rivers empty into it, one
of which is very large, extending eastward, and called Rivière de
l'Équille,[57] from a little fish of the size of an esplan?, which is
caught there in large numbers, as is also the herring, and several other
kinds of fish found in abundance in their season. This river is nearly a
quarter of a league broad at its entrance, where there is an island [58]
perhaps half a league in circuit, and covered with wood like all the rest
of the country, as pines, firs, spruces, birches, aspens, and some oaks,
although the latter are found in small numbers in comparison with the other
kinds. There are two entrances to the above river, one on the north, the
other on the south side of the island. That on the north is the better, and
vessels can there anchor under shelter of the island in five, six, seven,
eight, and nine fathoms. But it is necessary to be on one's guard against
some shallows near the island on the one side, and the main land on the
other, very dangerous, if one does not know the channel.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
PORT AU MOUTON.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. Place where vessels lie.
B. Place where we made our camp.
C. A pond.
D. An island at the entrance to the harbor, covered with wood.
E. A river very shallow.
F. A pond.
G. A very large brook coming from the pond F.
H. Six little islands in the harbor.
L. Country, containing only copse and heath of very small size.
M. Sea-shore.
NOTE.—The wanting letter L should probably be placed where the trees are
represented as very small, between the letters B and the island F.
* * * * *
We ascended the river some fourteen or fifteen leagues, where the tide
rises, and it is not navigable much farther. It has there a breadth of
sixty paces, and about a fathom and a half of water. The country bordering
the river is filled with numerous oaks, ashes, and other trees. Between the
mouth of the river and the point to which we ascended there are many
meadows, which are flooded at the spring tides, many little streams
traversing them from one side to the other, through which shallops and
boats can go at full tide. This place was the most favorable and agreeable
for a settlement that we had seen. There is another island [59] within the
port, distant nearly two leagues from the former. At this point is another
little stream, extending a considerable distance inland, which we named
Rivière St. Antoine. [60] Its mouth is distant from the end of the Bay of
St. Mary some four leagues through the woods. The remaining river is only a
small stream filled with rocks, which cannot be ascended at all on account
of the small amount of water, and which has been named Rocky Brook. [61]
This place is in latitude [62] 45°; and 17° 8' of the deflection of the
magnetic needle.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP
PORT ROYAL
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. Our habitation. [Note: On the present site of Lower Granville.]
B. Garden of Sieur de Champlain.
C. Road through the woods that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made.
D. Island at the mouth of Équille River.
E. Entrance to Port Royal,
F. Shoals, dry at low tide.
G. River St. Antoine. [Note: The stream west of river St. Antoine is the
Jogging River.]
H. Place under cultivation for sowing wheat. [Note: The site of the
present town of Annapolis.]
I. Mill that Sieur de Poutrincourt had made.
L. Meadows overflowed at highest tides.
M. Équille River.
N. Seacoast of Port Royal.
O. Ranges of mountains.
P. Island near the river St. Antoine.
Q. Rocky Brook. [Footnote: Now called Deep Brook.]
R. Another brook. [Note: Morris River.]
S. Mill River. [Note: Allen River.]
T. Small lake.
V. Place where the savages catch herring in the season.
X. Trout brook. [Note: Trout Brook is now called Shäfer's Brook, and the
first on the west is Thorne's, and the second Scofield's Brook.]
Y. A lane that Sieur de Champlain had made.
* * * * *
After having explored this harbor, we set out to advance farther on in Baye
Françoise, and see whether we could not find the copper mine, [63] which
had been discovered the year before. Heading north-east, and sailing eight
or ten leagues along the coast of Port Royal,[64] we crossed a part of the
bay Some five or six leagues in extent, when we arrived at a place which we
called the Cape of Two Bays;[65] and we passed by an island a league
distant therefrom, a league also in circuit, rising up forty or forty-five
fathoms. [66] It is wholly surrounded by great rocks, except in one place
which is sloping, at the foot of which slope there is a pond of salt water,
coming from under a pebbly point, having the form of a spur. The surface of
the island is flat, covered with trees, and containing a fine spring of
water. In this place is a copper mine. Thence we proceeded to a harbor a
league and a half distant, where we supposed the copper mine was, which a
certain Prevert of St. Malo had discovered by aid of the savages of the
country. This port is in latitude 45° 40', and is dry at low tide. [67] In
order to enter it, it is necessary to place beacons, and mark out a
sand-bank at the entrance, which borders a channel that extends along the
main land. Then you enter a bay nearly a league in length, and half a
league in breadth. In some places, the bottom is oozy and sandy, where
vessels may get aground. The sea falls and rises there to the extent of
four or five fathoms. We landed to see whether we could find the mines
which Prevert had reported to us. Having gone about a quarter of a league
along certain mountains, we found none, nor did we recognize any
resemblance to the description of the harbor he had given us. Accordingly,
he had not himself been there, but probably two or three of his men had
been there, guided by some savages, partly by land and partly by little
streams, while he awaited them in his shallop at the mouth of a little
river in the Bay of St. Lawrence.[68] These men, upon their return,
brought him several small pieces of copper, which he showed us when he
returned from his voyage. Nevertheless, we found in this harbor two mines
of what seemed to be copper according to the report of our miner, who
considered it very good, although it was not native copper.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE MAP.
PORT DES MINES.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. A place where vessels are liable to run aground.
B. A Small river.
C. A tongue of land composed of Sand.
D. A point composed of large pebbles, which is like a mole.
E. Location of a copper mine, which is covered by the tide twice a day.
F. An island to the rear of the Cape of Mines. [Note: Now called
Spencer's Island. Champlain probably obtained his knowledge of this
island at a subsequent visit. There is a creek extending from near
Spencer's Island between the rocky elevations to Advocate's Harbor, or
nearly so, which Champlain does not appear to have seen, or at least
he does not represent it on his map. This point, thus made an island
by the creek, has an elevation of five hundred feet, at the base of
which was the copper mine which they discovered.—Vide note 67.]
G. Roadstead where vessels anchor while waiting for the tide.
H. Isle Haute, which is a league and a half from Port of Mines.
I. Channel.
L. Little River.
M. Range of mountains along the coast of the Cape of Mines.
* * * * *
The head [69] of the Baye Françoise, which we crossed, is fifteen leagues
inland. All the land which we have seen in coasting along from the little
passage of Long Island is rocky, and there is no place except Port Royal
where vessels can lie in Safety. The land is covered with pines and
birches, and, in my opinion, is not very good.
On the 20th of May,[70] we set out from the Port of Mines to seek a place
adapted for a permanent stay, in order to lose no time, purposing
afterwards to return, and see if we could discover the mine of pure copper
which Prevert's men had found by aid of the savages. We sailed west two
leagues as far as the cape of the two bays, then north five or six leagues;
and we crossed the other bay,[71] where we thought the copper mine was, of
which we have already spoken: inasmuch as there are there two rivers, [72]
the one coming from the direction of Cape Breton, and the other from Gaspé
or Tregatté, near the great river St. Lawrence. Sailing west some six
leagues, we arrived at a little river,[73] at the mouth of which is rather
a low cape, extending out into the sea; and a short distance inland there
is a mountain,[74] having the shape of a Cardinal's hat. In this place we
found an iron mine. There is anchorage here only for shallops. Four leagues
west south-west is a rocky point [75] extending out a short distance into
the water, where there are strong tides which are very dangerous. Near the
point we saw a cove about half a league in extent, in which we found
another iron mine, also very good. Four leagues farther on is a fine bay
running up into the main land;[76] at the extremity of which there are
three islands and a rock; two of which are a league from the cape towards
the west, and the other is at the mouth of the largest and deepest river we
had yet seen, which we named the river St. John, because it was on this
saint's day that we arrived there.[77] By the savages it is called
Ouygoudy. This river is dangerous, if one does not observe carefully
certain points and rocks on the two sides. It is narrow at its entrance,
and then becomes broader. A certain point being passed, it becomes narrower
again, and forms a kind of fall between two large cliffs, where the water
runs so rapidly that a piece of wood thrown in is drawn under and not seen
again. But by waiting till high tide you can pass this fall very easily.
[78] Then it expands again to the extent of about a league in some places,
where there are three islands. We did not explore it farther up.[79] But
Ralleau, secretary of Sieur de Monts, went there some time after to see a
savage named Secondon, chief of this river, who reported that it was
beautiful, large, and extensive, with many meadows and fine trees, as oaks,
beeches, walnut-trees, and also wild grapevines. The inhabitants of the
country go by this river to Tadoussac, on the great river St. Lawrence,
making but a short portage on the journey. From the river St. John to
Tadoussac is sixty-five leagues.[80] At its mouth, which is in latitude
45° 40', there is an iron mine.[81]
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
RIVIÈRE ST. JEHAN.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. Three islands above the falls. [Note: The islands are not close
together as here represented. One is very near the main land on one
shore, and two on the other.]
B. Mountains rising up from the main land, two leagues south of the
river.
C. The fall in the river.
D. Shoals where vessels, when the tide is out, are liable to run aground.
E. Cabin where the savages fortify themselves.
F. A pebbly point where there is a cross.
G. An island at the entrance of the river. [Note: Partridge Island.]
H. A Small brook coming from a little pond. [Note: Mill Pond.]
I. Arm of the sea dry at low tide. [Note: Marsh Creek, very shallow but
not entirely dry at low tide.]
L. Two little rocky islets. [Note: These islets are not now represented
on the charts, and are probably rocks near the shore from which the
soil may have been washed away since 1604.]
M. A small pond.
N. Two brooks.
O. Very dangerous shoals along the coast, which are dry at low tide.
P. Way by which the savages carry their canoes in passing the falls.
Q. Place for anchoring where the river runs with full current.
* * * * *
From the river St. John we went to four islands, on one of which we landed,
and found great numbers of birds called magpies,[82] of which we captured
many small ones, which are as good as pigeons. Sieur de Poutrincourt came
near getting lost here, but he came back to our barque at last, when we had
already gone to search for him about the island, which is three leagues
distant from the main land. Farther west are other islands; among them one
six leagues in length, called by the savages Manthane,[83] south of which
there are among the islands several good harbors for vessels. From the
Magpie Islands we proceeded to a river on the main land called the river of
the Etechemins,[84] a tribe of savages so called in their country. We
passed by so many islands that we could not ascertain their number, which
were very fine. Some were two leagues in extent, others three, others more
or less. All of these islands are in a bay,[85] having, in my estimation, a
circuit of more than fifteen leagues. There are many good places capable of
containing any number of vessels, and abounding in fish in the season, such
as codfish, salmon, bass, herring, halibut, and other kinds in great
numbers. Sailing west-north-west three leagues through the islands, we
entered a river almost half a league in breadth at its mouth, sailing up
which a league or two we found two islands: one very small near the western
bank; and the other in the middle, having a circumference of perhaps eight
or nine hundred paces, with rocky sides three or four fathoms high all
around, except in one small place, where there is a sandy point and clayey
earth adapted for making brick and other useful articles. There is another
place affording a shelter for vessels from eighty to a hundred tons, but it
is dry at low tide. The island is covered with firs, birches, maples, and
oaks. It is by nature very well situated, except in one place, where for
about forty paces it is lower than elsewhere: this, however, is easily
fortified, the banks of the main land being distant on both sides some nine
hundred to a thousand paces. Vessels could pass up the river only at the
mercy of the cannon on this island, and we deemed the location the most
advantageous, not only on account of its situation and good foil, but also
on account of the intercourse which we proposed with the savages of these
coasts and of the interior, as we should be in the midst of them. We hoped
to pacify them in the course of time, and put an end to the wars which they
carry on with one another, so as to derive service from them in future, and
convert them to the Christian faith. This place was named by Sieur de Monts
the Island of St. Croix. [86] Farther on, there is a great bay, in which
are two islands, one high and the other flat; also three rivers, two of
moderate size, one extending towards the east, the other towards the north,
and the third of large size, towards the west. The latter is that of the
Etechemins, of which we spoke before. Two leagues up this there is a
waterfall, around which the savages carry their canoes some five hundred
paces by land, and then re-enter the river. Passing afterwards from the
river a short distance overland, one reaches the rivers Norumbegue and
St. John. But the falls are impassable for vessels, as there are only rocks
and but four or five feet of water.[87] In May and June, so great a number
of herring and bass are caught there that vessels could be loaded with
them. The soil is of the finest sort, and there are fifteen or twenty acres
of cleared land, where Sieur de Monts had some wheat sown, which flourished
finely. The savages come here sometimes five or six weeks during the
fishing Season. All the rest of the country consists of very dense forests.
If the land were cleared up, grain would flourish excellently. This place
is in latitude 45° 20',[88] and 17° 32' of the deflection of the magnetic
needle.
* * * * *
CHAMPLAIN'S DESCRIPTION OF THE ACCOMPANYING MAP.
ISLE DE SAINTE CROIX.
The figures indicate fathoms of water.
A. A plan of our habitation.
B. Gardens.
C. Little islet serving as a platform for cannon. [Note: This refers to
the southern end of the island, which was probably separated at high
tide, where a cannon may be seen in position.]
D. Platform where cannon were placed.
E. The Cemetery.
F. The Chapel.
G. Rocky shoals about the Island Sainte Croix.
H. A little islet. [Note: Little De Monts's Island, Sometimes called
Little Dochet's Island.]
I. Place where Sieur de Monts had a water-mill commenced.
L. Place where we made our coal.
M. Gardens on the western shore.
N. Other gardens on the eastern shore.
O. Very large and high mountain on the main land. [Note: This "mountain"
is now called Chamcook Hill. Its height is 627 feet. At the northern
end of the island on the right there is an extensive sandy shoal, dry
at low tide, of a triangular shape as formerly, and has apparently
changed very little since the days of Champlain.]
P. River of the Etechemins flowing about the Island of St. Croix.
* * * * *
ENDNOTES:
53. For May read June. It could not have been in May, since Champlain Set
out from Port Mouton on his exploring expedition on the 19th of May,
which must have been a month previous to this.
54. What is now called the Petit Passage, the narrow strait between Long
Island and Digby Neck.
55. Gulliver's Hole, about two leagues south-west of Digby Strait.
56. Champlain here names the whole harbor or basin Port Royal, and not the
place of habitation afterward so called. The first settlement was on
the north side of the bay in the present hamlet of Lower Granville, not
as often alleged at Annapolis.—Vide Champlain's engraving or map of
Port Royal.
57. "Équille." A name, on the coasts between Caen and Havre, of the fish
called lançon at Granville and St. Malo, a kind of malacopterygious
fish living on sandy shores and hiding in the sand at low tide.—
Littré. A species of sand eel. This stream is now known as the
Annapolis River. Lescarbot calls it Rivière du Dauphin.
58. This island is situated at the point where the Annapolis River flows
into the bay, or about nine miles from Digby, straight. Champlain on
his map gives it no name, but Lescarbot calls it Biencourville. It is
now called Goat Island.
59. Lescarbot calls it Claudiane. It is now known as Bear Island. It was
Sometimes called Ile d'Hébert, and likewise Imbert Island. Laverdière
suggests that the present name is derived from the French pronunciation
of the last syllable of Imbert.
60. At present known as Bear River; Lescarbot has it Hebert, and
Charlevoix, Imbert.
61. On modern maps called Moose River, and sometimes Deep Brook. It is a
few miles east of Bear River.
62. The latitude is here overstated: it should be 44° 39' 30".
63. On the preceding year, M. Prevert of St. Malo had made a glowing report
ostensively based on his own observations and information which he had
obtained from the Indians, in regard to certain mines alleged to exist
on the coast directly South of Northumberland Strait, and about the
head of the Bay of Fundy. It was this report of Prevert that induced
the present search.
64. Along the Bay of Fundy nearly parallel to the basin of Port Royal would
better express the author's meaning.
65. Cape Chignecto, the point where the Bay of Fundy is bifurcated; the
northern arm forming Chignecto Bay, and the southern, the Bay of Mines
or Minas Basin.
66. Isle Haute, or high island.—Vide Charlevoix's Map. On Some maps this
name has been strangely perverted into Isle Holt, Isle Har, &c. Its
height is 320 feet.
67. This was Advocate's Harbor. Its distance from Cape Chignecto is greater
than that stated in the text. Further on, Champlain calls it two
leagues, which is nearly correct. Its latitude is about 45° 20'. By
comparing the Admiralty charts and Champlain's map of this harbor, it
will be seen that important changes have taken place since 1604. The
tongue of land extending in a south-easterly direction, covered with
trees and shrubbery, which Champlain calls a sand-bank, has entirely
disappeared. The ordinary tides rise here from thirty-three to
thirty-nine feet, and on a sandy shore could hardly fail to produce
important changes.
68. According to the Abbé Laverdière, the lower part of the Gulf was
sometimes called the Bay of St. Lawrence.
69. They had just crossed the Bay of Mines. From the place where they
crossed it to its head it is not far from fifteen leagues, and it is
about the same distance to Port Royal, from which he may here estimate
the distance inland.
70. Read June.—Vide antea, note 53.
71. Chignecto Bay. Charlevoix has Chignitou ou Beau Bassin. On De Laet's
Map of 1633, on Jacob von Meur's of 1673, and Homenn's of 1729, we have
B. de Gennes. The Cape of Two Bays was Cape Chignecto.
72. The rivers are the Cumberland Basin with its tributaries coming from
the east, and the Petitcoudiac (petit and coude, little elbow, from
the angle formed by the river at Moncton, called the Bend), which flows
into Shepody Bay coming from the north or the direction of Gaspé.
Champlain mentions all these particulars, probably as answering to the
description given to them by M. Prevert of the place where copper mines
could be found.
73. Quaco River, at the mouth of which the water is shallow: the low cape
extending out into the sea is that on which Quaco Light now stands,
which reaches out quarter of a mile, and is comparatively low. The
shore from Goose River, near where they made the coast, is very high,
measuring at different points 783, 735, 650, 400, 300, 500, and 380
feet, while the "low cape" is only 250 feet, and near it on the west is
an elevation of 400 feet. It would be properly represented as "rather a
low cape" in contradistinction to the neighboring coast. Iron and
manganese are found here, and the latter has been mined to some extent,
but is now discontinued, as the expense is too great for the present
times.
74. This mountain is an elevation, eight or ten miles inland from Quaco,
which may be seen by vessels coasting along from St. Martin's Head to
St. John: it is indicated on the charts as Mt. Theobald, and bears a
striking resemblance, as Champlain suggests, to the chapeau de
Cardinal.
75. McCoy's Head, four leagues west of Quaco: the "cove" may be that on the
east into which Gardner's Creek flows, or that on the west at the mouth
of Emmerson's Creek.
76. The Bay of St. John, which is four leagues south-west of McCoy's
Head. The islands mentioned are Partridge Island at the mouth of the
harbor, and two smaller ones farther west, one Meogenes, and the other
Shag rock or some unimportant islet in its vicinity. The rock mentioned
by Champlain is that on which Spit Beacon Light now stands.
77. The festival of St. John the Baptist occurs on the 24th of June; and,
arriving on that day, they gave the name of St. John to the river,
which has been appropriately given also to the city at its mouth, now
the metropolis of the province of New Brunswick.
78. Champlain was under a missapprehension about passing the fall at the
mouth of the St. John at high tide. It can in fact only be passed at
about half tide. The waters of the river at low tide are about twelve
feet higher than the waters of the sea. At high tide, the waters of the
sea are about five feet higher than the waters of the river.
Consequently, at low tide there is a fall outward, and at high tide
there is a fall inward, at neither of which times can the fall be
passed. The only time for passing the fall is when the waters of the
sea are on a level with the waters of the river. This occurs twice
every tide, at the level point at the flood and likewise at the ebb.
The period for passing lasts about fifteen or twenty minutes, and of
course occurs four times a day. Vessels assemble in considerable
numbers above and below to embrace the opportunity of passing at the
favoring moment. There are periods, however, when the river is swollen
by rains and melting snow, at which the tides do not rise as high as
the river, and consequently there is a constant fall outward, and
vessels cannot pass until the high water subsides.
79. They ascended the river only a short distance into the large bay just
above the falls, near which are the three islands mentioned in the
text.
80. The distance from the mouth of the river St. John to Tadoussac in a
direct line is about sixty-five leagues. But by the winding course of
the St. John it would be very much greater.
81. Champlain's latitude is inexact. St. John's Harbor is 45° 16'.
82. Margos, magpies. The four islands which Champlain named the Magpies
are now called the Wolves, and are near the mouth of Passamaquoddy
Bay. Charlevoix has Oiseaux, the Birds.
83. Manan. Known as the Grand Manan in contradistinction to the Petit
Manan, a small island still further west. It is about fourteen or
fifteen miles long, and about six in its greatest width. On the south
and eastern side are Long Island, Great Duck, Ross, Cheyne, and White
Head Islands, among which good harborage may be found. The name, as
appears in the text, is of Indian origin. It is Sometimes Spelled
Menarse, but that in the text prevails.
84. The St. Croix River, sometimes called the Scoudic.
85. Passsmaquoddy Bay. On Gastaldo's map of 1550 called Angoulesme. On
Rouge's "Atlas Ameriquain," 1778, it is written Passamacadie.
86. The Holy Cross, Saincte Croix, This name was suggested by the
circumstance that, a few miles above the island, two streams flow into
the main channel of the river at the same place, one from the east and
the other from the west, while a bay makes up between them, presenting
the appearance of a cross.
"Et d'autant qu'à deux lieues au dessus il y a des ruisseaux qui
viennent comme en croix de décharger dans ce large bras de mer, cette
île de la retraite des François fut appelée SAINCTE CROIX."—His.
Nouvelle France par Lescarbot, Paris. 1612, Qvat Liv. pp. 461, 462.
It is now called De Monts's Island. It has been called Dochet's Island
and Neutral Island, but there is great appropriateness in calling it
after its first occupant and proprietor, and in honor of him it has
been so named with suitable ceremonies.—Vide Godfrey's Centennial
Discourse, Bangor, 1870, p. 20. The United States maintain a light
upon the island, which is seventy-one feet above the level of the sea,
and is visible twelve nautical miles. The island itself is moderately
high, and in the widest part is one hundred and eighty paces or about
five hundred and forty feet. The area is probably not more than six or
seven acres, although it has been estimated at twice that. It may have
been diminished in some slight degree since the time of Champlain by
the action of the waves, but probably very little. On the southern
extremity of the island where De Monts placed his cannon, about
twenty-five years ago a workman in excavating threw out five small
cannon-balls, one of which was obtained by Peter E. Vose, Esq., of
Dennysville, Me., who then resided near the island, and was conversant
with all the circumstances of the discovery. They were about a foot and
a half below the surface, and the workman was excavating for another
purpose, and knew nothing of the history of the island. At our
solicitation, the ball belonging to Mr. Vose has recently been
presented to the New England Historic Genealogical Society, of which he
is a member. It is iron, perfectly round, two and a quarter inches in
diameter, and weighs 22 oz. avoirdupois. There can be no reasonable
doubt that these balls are relics of the little French colony of 1604,
and probably the only memorial of the kind now in existence.
87. The description in the text of the environs of the Island of St. Croix
is entirely accurate. Some distance above, and in view from the island,
is the fork, or Divide, as it is called. Here is a meeting of the
waters of Warwig Creek from the east, Oak Bay from the north, and the
river of the Etechemins, now called the St. Croix, from the west. These
are the three rivers mentioned by Champlain, Oak Bay being considered
as one of them, in which may be seen the two islands mentioned in the
text, one high and the other low. A little above Calais is the
waterfall, around which the Indians carried their bark canoes, when on
their journey up the river through the Scoudic lakes, from which by
land they reached the river St. John on the east, or, on the west,
passing through the Mettawamkeag, they reached the Norumbegue, or
Penobscot River.
88. The latitude of the Island of St. Croix is 45° 7' 43".