a. Oasis
b. Moghreb
c. Ishmael and Israel
In the desert, night is reason; the day is magic and madness. This is a
law of the desert, and of the desert dwellers.
The light of the sun turns air into an incantation; it is dangerous to
man as the sharpest steel or the fire. And the air possessed makes
marvels of the land. The sky is opaque like a baking stone. The sterile
hills are in perennial motion. They are not hills docile and quiet for
the feet of man. They are enactments of geologic drama. By æons they
displace not man alone, but the first life that crawled. Each rim of the
hills is an age; they gyre in cosmic emotion.
Under a cloudless sky that is too still, earth veers; and under the
hills, sand by some magic teems with forms of flesh. The light on a dune
turns it into a thigh. Far off the waste becomes a sea, a snow-field.
But this exquisite flesh and snow and sea are aloof. Man is contemporary
only with the birth and with the death of worlds. And the hushed
counterpoise of life, which is his mortal span, is desert.
But with the night the world becomes a world that he can dwell in. The
evening star, sending its ray through opalescent dusk, is a sun he can
dwell with. The sky grows soft. The hills are shrouded like his body;
they are compounded like his soul of silences; they behold a sky that
does not sear and an earth he can walk. The moon strides like a master,
subduing the caravans of stars. The moon is male, and human.
The world of the day is a world of violence. It has no water and it has
no sweetness. It is the world of this life: best spent in marching,
passionate-shrewdly, toward dusk. Night is man’s kingdom, his dear
reality: it is a place of gardens under which flow waters: it is a place
of measurable fires: a place of shadows and of meditation: a place of
dew and of love.
Wonder therefore not at the triumph of Mohammed, master of lands of
desolation, who leads his peoples still across a day of flame to the
revealing sleep of his dusk paradise.
. . . . . .
This magic of the desert day is ironic; at odd places the irony turns
smile. Just enough welcoming the smile to tempt man to live on within
the toils of the desert. The name of the smile is Oued—whence our word
Oasis. The Oued is a spill of water from the breast of a mountain.
Hidden springs converge and burst the rusty slope; and there is a tiny
river till the sands have drunk it. Where it flows, the desert smiles:
smiles date-palms, fig trees, thickets of oleander. So the desert keeps
its perennial victims living.
At the bottom of the Oued is the town.
The mountains raise their convolutions in a great struggle, ere they
break and die under these southern sands. The heights grow steep. Water
falls through rock, pours through curtains of brush that hang upon the
gorges. There is verdure: cataracts of stone with silver veins of water,
flats of sand where the palms rise seeking the sun above a precipitous
gulch, water mills hid in orange-groves, terraced houses with many roofs
and every roof a place for looms, for women. The water broadens, is
caught into a hundred irrigating ditches. The date-palms thicken and
camp like an army; the town huddles with its white walls windowless.
The morning sun comes late to the Oasis, for it must rise above the
hills. But dawn dwells already on the desert. It is a subtle radiance of
decaying night. Infinitesimal browns and blacks fleck the dim waste:
these are the camps of nomads who use the Oasis as a trading center.
Their tents are of undyed camel wool, strung low so that they look like
camels crouching. The great slow beasts are at anchor by the tent. Dry
grass is piled for them; they turn their delicate heads on the arched
neck that fronts the body like the prow of a ship. Camel grass burns
within. The Arab, swathed in his white burnouse, squats at the mouth of
the tent and strikes his brow to the dust, saying his dawn-prayer.
Unveiled behind him is his wife over the flame of twisted grass, and
cooks and watches her children. On the horizon stand two caravans of
twenty camels, bulging with dates. Now the thread of their approach
writes upon the desert. It is market day in the Saharan center. There
will be many caravans. And the wide scatter of nomads will close in like
fragments of iron magnetized; making an irradiant design from the town
to the horizons.
The market place is a low square, on the edge of the town away from the
Oasis. One side of it is a mosque, a Koran school, a string of Moorish
cafés where already merchants huddle with their coffee. The corner
breaks into a labyrinth of streets strident with tiny shops. Upon a
third side, the desert road cuts into the breast of sand-dunes; far away
is the white solitary shell of a Marabout’s tomb.
The crowd is the town and the desert: an Arab world, drawn by hunger
from far gold slopes, to make this thick and hardy organism. Most of the
men wear burnouses of unbleached wool; their heads are covered by the
ample hood and the skirt falls low over the inner jacket, over the naked
legs, to the feet which are either bare or shod with sandal soles of
grass thonged to the ankle. Time has dyed the virgin wool and use has
torn it; the shreds and rents are fantasies in dirt. Within the hoods,
sun-baked faces stare. The hands are talonous; the legs are like the
tendoned legs of some great bird. And yet the dirtiest garment falls to
the dust with grace; and the most squalid head is high.
The merchants sit on straw mats: they bake round acorn cakes on
brasiers; they sell dates gold-dry, bronze-rich; they measure
thimblefuls of palm oil dripped from reeking goatskins; they cobble
sandals; they sell liver of camel and couss-couss, a staple dish of
wheat, flaked with vegetables or with meat. (Donkeys stand mournful,
charged with juniper from the distant Atlas.) They sell dust and
fragments of silver, potsherds, amulets against devils, halters, tea;
they sell the dry leaf of the favorite henna. The crowd sways,
bartering, laughing. The Arabic is vowelless and the burnouse is proud.
The Arab is shrewd; his eyes glint, his fingers snap, his voice pelts.
He is the survivor of countless children who have died.
Children not yet dead weave through the intricate clamor. The boys wear
a burnouse over a naked body; the girls are bound in a thick wool
garment that will announce to the men when the breasts bud. They beg,
they snatch a date, they nibble. Half of them are blind in an eye. For
Islam makes no answer to the Ophthalmia of Egypt: is not Allah good to
the blind son, giving him fortune as a beggar, as a ballad singer, as a
muedzin to call the prayer from the mosque tower? Blind eyes, ravaged
flesh, hard voices—most of the children will die. And their survivors
are these hooded men at barter.
Therefore, the men are strong: it is the law that they eat first and
what remains may go to the women and the brood. Women are here, too.
Ancients with foul rags to bind their bulging udders and their bony
legs; ancients almost bald with hands and faces splotched in the henna.
They sell wool or weave mats from the coarse camel grass that bunches in
the sand dunes like the hair on a mole. Younger women hold the veil so
that a single eye peers at the ominous world. They buy wood, slices of
liver, oranges from the East. In the weave of laughter, guttural and
fleshless, of bray of donkey, of rumble of camels like the ebbed roar of
a furnace, twines the call of children ... the call of begging, the
life-call. A hand plashes a drum, a strain of song rises and binds this
chaos.
He sits between a cobbler and a nomad ebon-black with the drooped tender
lip of the Semite. He is the blind singer. He wears a clean tunic of
white and his head is swathed in the turbash. His bare legs gleam like
metal. His hands are delicate as prayer within the market clamor. He
clasps the shallow drum; and his fingers fall like rain.
He sings the deeds of the warriors of Allah. From Mecca they came, and
Al-Medinah; they spread from Araby to Egypt and down to Sudan and east
to India. They brought the sword of the Prophet to the hand of the
world. Like the sun, they went west; like Gabriel they rose into the
Spanish north, bridging the sea with minaret and prayer....
Metal he sings: his song is sparse like shreds of grass on a sand hump.
Five notes, naked, timbreless, make this intricate weave. They start
like arrows, like catapulted stones, like horse-hoofs on the desert.
This music is stripped like war; and like war single-willed.
The blind bard’s face is gray beneath the sumptuous swathes of his
turbash. His lips twist like cord; his face like an engine discharges
the song of Islam—single of key, terrible in singleness.
. . . . . .
The sun stands beside the minaret that forms part of the west wall of
the town. The eastern mountain is gold and over it lies a pallid
crescent moon. There will be moon tonight upon the desert! From the
fondoukhs, camels are beaten forth. They are prodded to their knees
which are then bound so that they cannot rise. And the fragile humps are
heaped with the exchange of the mart. Great bags, here, oozed sugar of
the date: now there is wheat and wool. Fifteen camels, lashed and
hobbled, groan: then sway into the air like an armada moved by the wind
of guttural call and staff-blow. Fifteen camels swerve through a narrow
gate into the desert.
The town stands behind, low mosqued: the minarets rise from the flat
roofs like acrobats. Palms make a misty coronal to the east: thousands
of palms, mazed like a camel’s hair: and over all the sterile mountain,
a chart of ages, working to the sky. Now, from the minarets comes a
voice.
Alláh acbar.... Echhed en la ila ella Alláh.
Echhed en Mohammed Rasou Alláh.
Haï ala Elsalat. Haë ala Elfaláh.
Alláh Acbar.... La ila ella Alláh.
It is the call of the muedzin. Invariable his word, his key: invariable
the five points of the day ... dawn, noon, mid-afternoon, sunset and
dark ... when from all the minarets of town, in all the towns of the
land, in all the lands of Islam, the muedzin calls to prayer. The voice
is of iron. Myriad muedzin voices, like strokes of some intricate
machine, weave together, and bind Islam holy.
Allah is great.... I affirm there is no God save only Allah.
I affirm Mohammed is the Prophet of Allah.
Come ye to prayer. Come ye to adore him.
Allah is great.... I affirm there is no God, save only Allah.
Belal, first muedzin, crier for Mohammed, spoke these words. They are a
redolent poem: ecstasy was in them, and resolve. They have not changed
in syllable since Belal received them from his master, a year after the
Hegira, the year of our era 623. But they have hardened. They are a
terrible horizontal stroke upon a prostrate people. Harder than bells of
Christendom they are; harder than the Jewish plaint which Mohammed
hated, which Mohammed strove to wipe from the ears of the earth.
The caravan has halted. The camels stand docile, pathetic, shifting
their great loads; for it hurts the soft pads of their feet to stand
laden, it is easier to walk. The men scatter and squat, each by himself,
but each turned from the setting sun toward Mecca. The water of the
desert is the sand; and with the sand the men make their ablutions. They
place their sandals beside them; all that is unclean in the folds of the
burnouse they lay aside. Their mouths mutter fast; their hands perform
intricate gestures. To swerve from the immemorial forms, even by a
finger twitch, is to be in heresy and to be damned. Their brows touch
the sand....
... For man is earth. The brow is his highest and his noblest part.
Let his brow therefore, five times with each day, be lowered to
earth. This is ISLAM....
The camels fall into the rhythmic swing which will not swerve while the
moon swings over the sand and the sand swings under the night, and the
silent men round the ocean of the desert.
. . . . . .
From the town, as from a smoldering fire, smoke. There are no chimneys;
Allah takes care of the smoke. After the bright street, the house is a
cavern. The eyes, refocused to the dark, observe a long, high chamber,
its walls black with ages of grime, its ceiling stanchioned by wooden
posts that shine like ebony. There is no table, there is no chair, there
is no bed. Dry grass is piled in corners, and serves for sleeping. Four
families live in this lower half of the house. Four women squat in its
several quarters; about them nurslings, before them a little brasier to
which the children feed chips of wood, shreds of rush. The women cut
turnips, bake wheat for the couss-couss. There is a stair that is
scarce a stair: ages of feet have worn it to an incline. The upper story
has more light; there is a hole in the center of the ceiling which leads
to the roof. If it rains, the water falls through the heart of the
house; but light comes in, smoke rises out. Here, too, there is no
furniture. A chicken pecks in the crumbled floor; an old woman weaves at
a loom. Her hands know an immemorial process of weaving, like the mouth
of her husband praying.
The roof is the domain of the women. The street is for the men and all
that the street leads to. But the housetop is the street and the
playground of women. On sunny afternoons of the cool season, here is
their escape from the drudge and dark of their homes. This house is
high among the houses whose flat roofs move away in waving whiteness. A
minaret thrusts up ... there is a gap, a square ... then the packed
counterpoint of roof and turning wall and wall again to the green dense
at last of palms, to the gorge of the Oued, to the sand-stretch
southward where the sun lies in a mist as in a sea of opal.
The white roofs are gay with the color of women. Veils are put aside.
Babes suck at ruddy breasts. Red shawls and red babouches touch the
color of laughter. Women are carefree. Even the onus of prayer that sits
on Islam is not for them. Let them but bear children and hold the good
will of their men.[1] One woman, the rich blood clear beneath the bronze
of her cheek, presses to her bosom a child who will soon die. Children
come and often children go. The way of the child, to manhood or the
grave, is in the hand of Allah. A girl, candid and great-eyed with a
flinty note upon her luscious flesh, like steel on velvet, holds to her
lovely breast which motherhood has not distorted from its apple-rondure,
a babe whose eyes are already shut with pus. She will have a blind
son—perhaps a muedzin, perhaps a poet: certainly a Seer.
. . . . . .
When the sun is good, many women follow up the Oued, with their brood,
for a day’s washing. The river is gracious within its precipitous banks.
The winter sun, sweet like our sun of June, has yet the reverberant
Saharan weight. It strikes the top of the hills, it rolls down over the
clay-maze; it strikes the level sand, down once more it bounds into the
gorge, over drenched bushes, over hanging rock and fills the Oued. Here,
knee-deep, with their thin gowns lashed to the thigh and the rondures of
their bodies speaking, stand women: and the sun comes to them. Other
women lay the washed clothes on rocks and with bare feet dance on them,
mangling and rinsing in song. The sun and the vigil of the hills, and
the town distant, release the spirit of this flesh. Allah is far away,
and the pure violence of Mohammed. Women are pagans again, and the Oued
has gods. Children peal. Girls let fall their tunics and their breasts
dance with their feet. Old women have eyes hot with memories, as they
watch the crisp bodies of their daughters.
But beyond the Oued, beyond its walled mouth where the water disappears
in sand, and beyond the date-palms, lies another town. It is more drear
than its graveyard. So far, doubtless, in old days the river ran ere it
had clotted and shortened its way with silt. The town is almost a ruin.
A few children play, but the houses are silent. No windows break the
seared patched blocks of clay. The graveyard is higher, and it has a
wall. Here one can sit and watch the ruined town and the maze of gardens
by the Oued and the palms, and the present town and the desert sea. The
muedzin has thrust his call to sunset prayer. The muedzin is gone. The
sun is gone. The mountains are sapphires in a cornelian heaven. The
Sahara moves in copper from the town: grows argent: its dunes are
swathed in mist like women’s bodies in irradiant shawls. The desert
fades into a fume of opal under a bronze horizon.
Intricate designs stir in the graveyard chaos. Between the head stones
and the foot stones the thin earth is raised so that the body may
lightly rise to Heaven. (Jackals and dogs, as well as souls, find the
shallow graves to their taste.) And now, to meet this subtle stir of
dust, comes music. Common notes, sordid notes, between the sand and the
sky. Drone of men in prayer, sudden motley of boys who sit in a black
room and shout the Koran, girl laughter, donkey bray, banter—a music
secret as this world. It comes with the night, swift, like any
revelation. It fuses with the graveyard stones, with the world. The
labyrinth of walls, enclosing gardens down to the Oued, is one with it.
Fig tree, palm, volute Barbary cactus, winding path to the river, muddy
river stretch, litter of refuse, excrement, manure, fuse with the music
and the graveyard stones, rhyme in the oneness of Allah.
A late worker jogs past on a burro. A Caïd—Judge—swings with his
basket-saddle on a mule. Another worker sticks his rod into the open
sore on his burro’s haunch. On one side of the glimmering Oued is the
town—a wall with many breaks, cobbles on mud, that lead into alleys and
that grow into streets. The walls, within, flank out into a square from
which turn several streets. The houses here are open to the night, and
on the doorsteps before brasiers red with coal, sit women. Allah is one.
They wear gay shawls, striped skirts. They wear massive barbarous
bracelets, anklets, necklaces. Their faces, in the gloom, are heavy with
designs: brow, cheek, chin painted with henna or with kohl. From eye to
temple run delicate starry lines. And the hands are henna-splashed. When
man approaches they sing the song of invitation. Behind them crouching
on their brasiers, freshening their faces, gleams a room with a samovar
and a couch. Now, the classic song of lust from their still lips. The
crystal and the song of Islam! One note for all prayer, one note for all
begging, one note for lust. Allah is one.
The whole town has caught the day’s fair fever. A man sits with a metal
pipe whose saccade cadence flies ... splinters of steel ... into the
night. And women dance. They move in strange reply to the music. For it
is violent, swift and lean; it is the clang and charge of martial hoofs.
But the women are slow, almost imperceptible their feet; almost moveless
their thick bodies. The arms wave languid like branches of the willow.
The whole town in the dead day’s fever. Dance and laughter and flame
blossom in the shadows of the street. A ballad singer sits among the
girls: he sings of the chieftain whose head was left upon the field and
how the Prophet came and joined it to his body, for the Resurrection.
But girls dance in a rising tide of Spring. His hands upon the drum make
running of swift steeds, his voice is a javelin: the girls move like
their breathing breasts.
Here is a large blank house. The court is high, and all about ring
little doors of oak. Below is a hall. Its walls are muffled in rugs, its
floor is far under carpets. Before the divans are tables, and the tea is
spiced. Men in white squat and play upon pipes, and their black eyes
gleam. The music’s shrillness shrieks. Now come women. They are four.
Unminding loveliness moves within thick brocades and clashing gems. The
faces are exquisitely painted. Verdant and nervelessly, they dance. The
body is quiet as a tree, the hands are pliant and susurrous like leaves.
The male music works.... A stomach wrench, violent as childbirth,
shatters upon the mellifluous woman’s body. Above the music comes a cry
from her mouth; it is a piercing call made pulsant with the hand clapped
periodically to the open lips. It dies; the elemental bodies stir again
within the dress and a sleep. But the male music works. The women pause.
The musicians turn about, so that they cannot see. With unfeeling hands,
the dancers loose the bonds of their thick robes. They step from the
splendor fallen to their feet; they are naked. Only the jewels flash and
bite upon their musing flesh. They dance. The muscles of their thighs
flow upward toward their breasts; the arms twine sleepy. The male music
works. The stomach, sudden, as if in unseen violation, wrenches,
cascades, in passional response. The shrilling pipes are visited whole
upon the naked women. They shriek: their cry, overtoned, fluted,
pulsant, marries flesh and iron: blots out the music, and the music
falls.
The town is asleep. Swarming reeking streets of the town are gray and
are shells. The walls stand white under the sky, and over the depths of
brooding human darkness. The crescent moon, with the dark sphere visible
within its horns, sends scimitar rays into the sleep of Islam.
A semi-desert land holds well the squalors and the splendors of its
past. This edge of Africa is the western end of the world whence the sun
slides down to the sea. The bleak steppes, studded with sage and cactus,
rise to sudden mountains; snow fields balance palm groves. It was a
harsh place for a great world to grow in. But glories long since dust in
Bagdad and Damascus have still their form in the cities of Morocco.
The prehistoric source lives in the prehistoric mountains. The Moor here
is Berber. No one knows who is the Berber save that his speech is kin to
the speech of Abyssinia and Egypt. His villages are perched on the
slopes of the Atlas and in the stony fastness of the Rif, much as the
Roman found them—and the Phœnician. Squat rectangular houses with
thatch roof form a semicircle on the crest of a divide. Below is a
thousand feet of air and a torrent; above are the clouds. The houses are
of mud and grapple like goats to the earth. In the low, flat lands
between the tiers of mountain, the houses are round. Closer to them than
the houses of Europe are the huts of the Congo. They form a full circle
within which dwell the cattle at night and sleeps safety.
The archaic world lies whole in the stratified history that is the
Moghreb. Ages before Christ the Semite scattered markets on the coast
and Carthage grew great. Rome became a mere machine for periodic taxes.
Roman order and Vandal havoc left the Berber untouched. He is a hard,
dark, leathery man. His head is close-cropped. He is prone to silence.
Despite the myth of the Moroccan Sultanate—that feeble creature of the
French and Spaniard—he is still unconquered.
Between the coast and the valley of Meknes and Fez he has lived, sullen
and declining. The spark in his eye, the curl of his black lip tells
that as he has outlived a long parade of empires, he will outlive this
French one. In such mood, he dons his woolen tunic broidered red or
blue, loads his olives on his donkey’s back and goes down to effete Fez
or Marrakech for barter. Yesterday he bartered with the Arab, with the
Vandal, with the Roman. Earlier, he knew the men of Carthage, the silver
lords of Tartessos. He is a Berber.
Islam alone has won him. But not until Islam had passed him many times,
conquering half the Mediterranean world. The first Arabs converted some
Berbers and took them along, not loitering in these mountains. Berber
horsemen were soldiers and captains in Spain. But the Berber at home did
not stir from his stone somnolence. Córdoba and Toledo kindled fires
that warmed the monastic cells of Italy and England. Egypt awoke once
more. Mecca and Bagdad grew great. Morocco, halfway between the east and
the west, was invaded by new waves of Arabs. Hillalians and Idrissides
built fine towns in Algeria and Tunis. Morocco was surrounded by
splendors. The mountains remained mountains.
Three hundred years the streams of culture flowed through this frustrate
land, from Spain to the east and from the east to Europe. Now came a
Berber tribe from the southern desert: the Almoravides with their great
chieftain Yusuf. Twenty-two hundred years since the Phœnician had
builded in the Moghreb, and now the Moghreb in its own name grew great.
Fez, Marrakech, Rbat bloomed and their power spread to Tunis and to
Spain. Many ages did this stubborn world take to blossom; many ages has
it taken to die. The greatness of the Almoravides, of the Almohades, of
the Merinides lives still in Morocco.
. . . . . .
Fez is the metropolis of a world that is gone: the head of a missing
body. A hundred thousand Moors in Fez-el-Bali live in an age synchronous
with the Crusades and with the Gothic. The modern world is here like a
mirage—or like a curse of Allah.
A river, plenteous in water for Morocco, makes of the hills a single
grove for olive, fig and eucalyptus. The town lies solid, within them.
Most cities are a crust of houses split into streets and squares. Old
Fez is a solid carapace of roofs, its rise and fall like the
articulations of a body.
Underneath the roofs are the soukhs, intricate like the wrinkles on an
old man’s face. These are streets of myriad and tiny shops. In one
section there will be only goldsmiths—hundreds of men squatting before
their little bellows and their little gems. In another congregate the
sellers of fish, the vendors of soap and grease, the ironmongers, the
makers of leathern ware. The typical soukh is not more than three
paces wide; and each shop is an open box, slightly above the level of
the walk, and large enough for a single squatting man. Overhead, is a
roof of grapevine or of rush, joining the two sides of the street
together and letting in mere crevices of light.
Back and forth in this myriad-textured warren move the Fasi. The rich
swathe through on mules; asses laden with produce are led by uncouth
Berbers from the mountains or by black slaves from the south of the
Sahara. The human pigment is bewildering. The city Arab is pale as a
dweller of the northern towns of Europe: the Kabyl is dark-skinned,
blue-eyed: the Ethiop is black as the shadows in the tiny shops.
Burnouse and turbans are pied. Vendors shout for the passers-by to stop.
And from time to time there is a break in the ceaseless lineage of
bazaars: the carved, closed shutter of a Koran school shields the
incessant coil of adolescent voices, strident, wild,
unmeditative—shouting the words of their Prophet. Along the bare walls
of the mosques and the medersas, beggars are posted. Their stintless
catch-word weaves with the beat of ass-hoof, with the thresh of human
feet, with the shop-calls, with the chanting of students.
Each beggar has his phrase. It invokes alms with the patronage and to
the glory of a particular saint. It guarantees to the almsgiver a
saint’s word in Heaven. He sits in the shadow of the holy buildings. The
carven door leads through a passage of mosaic to a court, gorgeous with
tile and woodwork laid perhaps with mother-of-pearl. The holy students
of the medersa live in cells, mounting in honey-comb mass to the
minaret.
From the crowded soukhs, streets toweringly high and sinisterly narrow
twist in all directions. A band of Moorish minstrels moves from dark
door to dark door. The voices of drum and pipe give forth a ghost of
music. The voices are shrill like the calls of mountain life. Arab music
was lean and violent, a gray fusion of thrusts. This song of the true
Moor is almost disembodied. It has accent, but no texture. It stands
against the intricate mellow noise of the city, enfolded in the liquid
sconce of hills, like a savage summons. A door opens, a copper falls in
a drum. The leader of the band gives his toned blessing; the slender men
move on, weaving with their song a pall on Islam.
On a hill stands the mosque of Bab-Guissa (one of the 785 mosques built
in Fez by the Almohades, exclusive of monasteries and medersas). By this
mosque is the north gate through which the Berber from the Rif passes
with donkey-charge of olive or of grain. Each donkey-load pays duty to
the Sultan; and each appraisal calls for threats from the custom
officer—degenerate Moors who are truly slaves of France. The Riffian
pays his pence in sullen silence. And his non-resistance maddens the
Fasi. Nearby is an olive market, Fondouk el lhoudi. The olives ripen
in winter. Vast rush troughs and baskets hold the black fruit in the
open Square, under the sun and the flies, and the sweating men and
donkeys. With the barter come blows. A negro catches a bargainer with
his teeth and is flung off with a ripped cheek. The crowd buzzes, deeply
unmoved. The open baskets of olives, black-gemmed in the air, give an
intenser note....
On the heights above Bab-Guissa are the ruined tombs—the koubbas—of
the Merinides. Their crumbled arabesques look down on the long valley of
Oued Fez. A spirit of those ancient rulers could still find his
Fez-el-Bali: know this shut and terracing carapace of stone, blue tile,
gold ceramic, fumy beneath the sun. The old walls are there, too,
although time and cactus have splintered them. And the mosques rise like
a thousand claws toward Allah—the hold of the pious town on the One
God.[2]
The sun is sinking on the Almohadian wall that forms a corner with the
mosque Bab-Guissa. Soon will come from myriad minarets, the call for
evening prayer. The mountain donkeys no longer lurch through the Gate;
and the slaves of the imprisoned Sultan are gone. This rocky height
studded with moldering tombs, this wall and this tower form a natural
amphitheater. It is crowded with Moors. They squat on the ground,
swathed in burnouses. Water-boys thread silently. All indeed is silent,
facing down to a central point within the wall where sits a man.
His beard is white and his voice is gentle: he is a man with exquisite
hands and manners of the Court. And he is speaking so quietly, that the
massed crowd must hold silent indeed, if it would hear him. He is the
Chronicler of Fez—poet, historian, journalist: one of the great sons of
the Moghreb. Each day at nightfall, for an hour, he bespeaks in his own
verse the glory of Islam. Each of his tales lasts three months: there
are four of them to the year. His unemphatic words give to the men of
Fez two realities of Islam: the splendor which was, and the splendor
which is eternal. He speaks, not without humor; his immobile body
radiates peace. He tells of the gardens underneath which flows
water—the Garden whither Islam somnolently moves through this demonic
hour of wireless, guns and rail-ways....
. . . . . .
The capital of the Sultanate is Rbat. From here, the Almohadian troops
set sail for Spain; and after the triumph of Alarcos in 1195,
Rbat-el-Fath—“Camp of Victory”—received its name. Fez, in hills, is
gold: Rbat is a dazzling white over the sea. The bou Regreg slopes down
within its sands, between two gentle promontories. On one of them Rbat,
on the other Sla—ancient cities, equally white above the sea, equally
proud, equally hostile. You can row from the soukhs of Rbat to the
palaces of Sla in a minute. But these are worlds kept separate in an
ageless confrontation. Time was when the two cities were independent;
blood stained the sands of the Regreg. Each town slants to the sea upon
a mighty dune; and this dune is a divided graveyard.
The ocean has opened Rbat. Its bright streets run with the breeze. Its
masonry is less delicate and more resolute than that of Fez. In its
soukhs is a tang of salt. The Moors themselves are less shut up. Though
their burnouses swathe them and the women walk as hidden in their veils,
an Atlantic rhythm has crept within these folds; the somnambulance is
brighter.
“We have lived fair days
In Granada, house of delight.
Among its roses and its roses budding
We have sped many a silver night.
Alas! no more for our enraptured use
The dwellings of Andalús.....
Hush! do not make me suffer more.”
We are the guests of a Cherif.[3] Two slave girls crouched on the
carpet sing for us. The house is modern. But in each detail it is a copy
of the classic Moorish style whose glory is Al-Hambra. These might be
the days when Al-Ahmar, king of Granada, was friend of the Catholic
Fernando; and when Christians were entertained in the Andalús even as we
in the Moghreb.
It is a long and narrow chamber, run round by a divan yielding with silk
cushions. To a man’s height, the wall is mosaic. Above, it is white
plaster exquisitely laced in arabesque. The ceiling is carved wood,
textured and painted like a maze of flowers, with mother-of-pearl and
gold within the toolings. Outside the door we see the court, and hear
the song of the fountain. The mansion rises to four stories: upon each
floor the balcony goes round and all the windows open in upon it. A girl
brings subtly painted goblets; tea fused with mint is poured. Another
slave places brasiers of sandalwood. The monotonous wail and rending
song has ceased. The singers go in silence, as if they had left with us
all that they had. We hear the pulse of the sea: an indeterminate murmur
of voice and feet. Two little slaves, with eyes too far to be either
friendly or hostile, linger and change our glasses, ere we have half
drained them.
“It is because we have disobeyed the Prophet.”
A young man speaks. He is the eldest son and his burnouse is white,
undecorated wool. He has laid aside his babouches and his feet are bare.
He reclines on the divan, resting his languorous head upon a hand more
exquisite than the lacework on the wall. The features are subtly virile.
There is fire in them, and cruelty. He is a man fine-drawn—but
altogether metal. He is twenty: not yet married. His life is the study
of Lore at his zaouïa and the writing of verse.
“In Al-Koran it is written that we should work—we have not worked. It
is written that all Islam should live in peace—we have fought each
other. It is written that we should shun luxuriance and vice, that we
should cultivate our soil and our minds. We neglect them. It is written
that we should raise up our women—we keep them down. Therefore our life
is disaster. Therefore the French are upon us. We have been the highest
of peoples. Islam and Culture were one. In the old days, among a
thousand men, there was not one who did not read. Within a thousand
homes, there was not one but had delicate rugs, handsomely carved walls.
Now, our houses are dark with smoke; our minds are dark with ignorance.
Like the pest unto the unclean body, the French have come.”
My host smiled, fearful lest the words of his too serious son should
bring discomfort.
“It is an evil hour: and it will pass.”
“Are you acting,” I asked, “to make it pass the quicker?”
“When we are ready, we shall act. Even as a child when it is ready to
walk.” The son spoke. And his friend, a philosopher from Tunis, nodded.
“Islam has been cursed with a new childhood. We are not decadent. I know
that your historians call us decadent. It is a lie. Measure us by the
Law of the Prophet. If it was ever good and great, it is still so today.
Perhaps you would find that it was never good. It has been studied by
intelligent men—the Jews—and found wanting. We can understand that.
But it is not changed: it is not decadent.”
I thought of the world fringing the Power of Rome, before Mohammed: a
chaos of repellent parts, giving no light. The Arab kindled this anarchy
and made it one. I thought of the reeking Kasbah of Algiers; of the
swarming, inert Marrakech and Fez. I thought of the Monastery city in
the Sahara and of the holy Marabout whose Word Arabs came weeks on
camel-back to hear. I had felt everywhere a Body, flaccidly receding
from its accumulate splendors.
“You are a poet,” I said. “Tell me about the forms and the spirit of
your verse.”
“We have sixteen forms,” answered the son. “We have but one Spirit.”
“Poetry,” said my host, “is more plentiful than trees, in Islam. It is
our water-bearer. It is our forest.”
“And your greatest poet?”
All three spoke as one: “The Prophet.”
The Tunisian explained:
“Amrolkéïs, Antsar, El Bassiri, the poets of El Hariri and El Hamadaín
were great. How could there be poetry like that which the Prophet
dictated unto his disciples? In those days, Zoheïr was the greatest poet
of Mecca. The Prophet had escaped to Al-Medinah. At the annual contest,
when all the poets posted their work on the outer wall of El Kaabah,
there was none to vie with Zoheïr. And Zoheïr was an idolater, a man of
the tribe of the Koreishites—deep haters of the Prophet. But a Sura of
the Koran came to the eyes of this man who had been crowned. And he read
it, and he tore his victorious poem. And he said: The crown belongs to
Mohammed, son of Abd-Allah, son of Abd-El-Motalleb.”
“Who are the great poets, now?”
“How, in a low age, can there be high poets? We follow the great humbly.
The best of today—whatever it is—in poetry and in philosophy—is found
in Egypt.”
Mine host led us to the roof of his palace.
“It is night,” he explained. “We are not indiscreet.” He referred to the
custom of Islam which gives the roof as the inviolate playground of the
women.
There was no moon. The stars were a swarm of golden bees within the deep
blue meadow of the sky. From a hundred open courts, hid lights of houses
were thrown up. Each house was a muffled lantern; Rbat was a cluster of
hidden lamps peering into the turbulence of stars. The sea slept. Beyond
the city walls, the ancient tower of Hassan mused, a gray ghost.
The man from Tunis spoke:
“It is said, O my friends, that Morocco is the tail of Islam. Let it
then be known that Islam is a peacock.”
Outside the inner city, in the direction of Hassan, there was a small,
low group of open lights. Here the houses were not dark lanterns; the
houses had windows out upon the street. A trill of horizontal fires came
against the upright monotone of Islam.
“It is the Mellah,” said mine host, “the Mellah of the Jews.”
We went into another chamber. Slave girls brought fresh glasses, candied
fruits, dainties from Arabia Felix. Through the open door, the wide
night air was a discord from this polyphony of silks and gems, of cedar
and spice and ceramic. And there arose the voices of distant women in
song. It was the women of the house, locked from the rooms where men of
the profane world might come and drink tea with the masters.
The song drifted palpitant and humble. My thought went out to the
Mellah—to the place where windows faced outward, where women showed
their faces....
Forty men, women, children fill the room with a voice. They are Jews,
Jews of the Moorish Mellah. The unveiled faces of the women are fertile,
less metallic, harder than the faces of their sisters. The eyes are
deeper, their consistency more solid. Gaunt determination holds the
warmth of these women like an armor. The men are more variant and less
harmonious. A burnouse or red fez in place of the black would pass most
of them as Arabs. In their eyes the same cunning, the same swift
hardness. Yet underneath dwells a distinction: an enduring spiritual
source—a quiet water—of which the agitation of their external lives is
tributary.
After the song of the Arab minstrels; after the singers of Fez beneath
the Merinidean tombs shouting to the twang of a string; after the fakirs
of the Socco in Tangiers who bounce and prance their monkey shines to
the lilt of an apish cry, to the crash of a scissors; after the mystic
monotone of the Darwish whirling his soul into the Absolute; after the
service of the Ouled-Naïl who sway like trees deep-rooted and who shriek
like Liliths—now, this Jewish music. Ten women step to the center of
the room and squat in a circle around a copper cauldron. They sing, and
as they sing they beat with open palms upon the upturned cauldron. Their
song is in Arabic; it has similitudes with Moorish songs: there are the
ceaseless verses, the narrative design with rhythm and note recurring.
But the women are ample-breasted, leoninely gay. The beat of palms upon
the copper drum rises like a copper wall about the women and the women’s
song.
As a mountain torrent carries the rigor of grim heights through a low
tropic zone, so this music moves through the Moorish Mellah with its
prophetic past. For all its tides of blood and wandering, it is still.
The music of Arab races like stripped steeds; that of the Moor jangles
like bone, snaps like sinew. Here is a song that dwells wide over
fields, tops the cedars of Lebanon, swings with the sun—and yet is but
a prayer. Its immobility has voyaged. The prophets are here; and Ruth
with her eyes fertile as the wheat; and Judith scabbarded in beauty. And
Babylon to which, as Tangiers now, the scum of peoples rose; where magic
parded with penury, coins glinted in blood. Spain is here, a
perpendicular starkness rising from the low tide of the music—Spain,
with her singing seers. And Araby has dropped her gold into a humble
song. As in the streets where the street women sing, here is the
cry—shrill, lithic: dangling but a moment on the plaint like a
barbarous dart upon a mother’s breast.
. . . . . .
Like the Jews, the Moslems are the People of a Book. The Bible is the
compiled and edited remnant of a literature ranging from epigram to
epic, into whose making went a thousand years. The Koran is the work of
a generation, and of a man. Whatever divergence from the prophetic mouth
is due to the disciples, Omar and Ali,[4] it is sure that before
Mohammed there was no Koran and after him his text has changed only
through processes of natural error. Before the Koran, the Arabs
possessed an anthology of verse, lapidic, utterly objective: poems
singing the loves and tribulations of the desert. These did not go, like
the ancestral heritage of the Hebrews, into their holy book. After the
Koran, this strain, celebrating passion, thirst, hospitality and war,
went on. The heightened activity of the Arabs enlarged their letters.
But the Koran, unlike what came after as before, is subjective. Pictures
of Paradise, explicit laws, ways of the wrath of Allah, pleadings and
campaigns, float in the swim of an inchoate exhortation. There is no
reason to doubt that the Prophet did dictate the Koran—and revised it
little. The book’s substance is an anarchic potpourri of what Mohammed
must have thought out for himself, together with what he heard in
synagogue and church. There is a canny set of laws: there is an endless
repetition of the delights of heaven “where are the gardens under which
flow waters” and of the miraculous nature of the virgins there, who are
never unclean, being perpetual lovers and perpetual virgins. There is
great harping on the unpleasantness of Hell. There are periodic
outbursts against the Jews and much gentle reproval of the Christians
whom Mohammed wooed with worshipful references to Jesus and to Mary.
There is, above all, ceaseless plagiary from the Old Testament tales,
whose beauty and significance are usually scrapped in Mohammed’s zest to
get to his main point. And the point, as a rule, is that Abraham, Moses
and Jesus were all true Moslems, that the Hebrews knew full well the
ultimate prophecy of Mohammed, that their Book tells them so, and that
only their wickedness keeps them from avowal. Finally, the book holds to
a running comment on contemporary events and neighboring peoples; and
the effect of this, within the holy Script, must have been vast since
here was virtually God himself dictating an editorial page on headline
stories.
Such matters lay in a great jumble in Mohammed’s head; for the Prophet
was too great and too busy a man to keep a clear literary mind. And in
such jumble they poured forth to make the verbose, extraordinarily
rhythmed mosaic of the 114 Suras of the Koran. The book is above all an
impressionistic portrait of Mohammed; in Mohammed, of the greatest
figure and of the greatest era of the Arabs. Even in translation, it
reveals the intense afflatus of a man who, from the age of forty till
his death at sixty-three, conquered a world, prepared successors to
conquer others, ruled savagely and wisely over a race as unruly as it
was naturally keen, won the love even of his foes and the submission of
almost countless maidens.
Mohammed was a great statesman, a great captain, a great lawmaker, a
great poet: he was not the creator of a great religion. Innumerable
mystic and religious men have worshiped Allah and performed the
ceremonials of the Prophet. But the Mohammedanism of Mohammed, of the
Koran, of the source is not essentially a religion at all. A religion
is a revealed experience of the relation between a man and his cosmos.
If it is not experience, it may be philosophy but it is less than a
religion. If it is not revealed, it may be an ecstatic or poetic state,
but it is less than a religion. Its conclusion may be suicide for the
human spirit, as in some religions of India; its field of consciousness
may be narrowly naturalistic or animistic as in the religions of the
savage. But no plan for life on earth, however exalted, is of itself a
religion; no scheme for reaching heaven. Nor is a system which exploits
an already existing sense of God as a means toward a determined human
goal a system of religion. This, moreover, is the system of Mohammed. It
employs the latent religiosity of the Arab world to a pragmatic end. It
exploits the idea of God as modern pragmatism the idea of progress.
Mohammed uplifted a race. Where, in this, is his equal? At his hand an
anarchy of tribes filling the desert with internecine blood: and from
this anarchy he prepared the force which mastered half Africa, half
Asia, Spain—which bound with great houses and great culture Bagdad to
Toledo. The religious energy of the Arabs had for ages straggled and
fumed in loss; creating but a variety of impotence. The religious energy
of the Jews had thrown forth light in the world, and left the Jewish
body desolate. Rome? The immense creature, camped about the Latin Sea,
accepted Christ in its senility. Its principle of growth had not been
Christ; Christ was to help to rot and to transform it. Mohammed studied
Rome. He observed this one live element in that immense decay. The
religious element. He took it, as the modern pragmatist takes the idea
of progress and of science, to express himself and to advance his
people.
He lived in a religious age. God for seven hundred years had made a
wrangling and a shambles of the marts of the east. God alone, in all
Rome, seemed alive. God served to energize Mohammed’s act. In the Koran,
Allah is a voice bearing no fresh body of eternity or love, bearing no
experience of Nature or of a spirit that transcends it: Allah is at best
the charged echo of past holy voices, here applied to spur the Arab on.
The quantity that gave Islam weight was the force of its leader and the
latent might of his race: God was the n by which the Prophet raised
this quantity to the pitch of action.
And Mohammed is the full rich presence in the Koran. Though God speaks,
Mohammed has the eye, the answer, the blessing and the curse for all the
ambient world. Mohammed tells the Arab about God chiefly that God is
telling the Arab about Mohammed. What else he says is not the crux of
the matter. Mohammed is Prophet, to obey him is good, to disobey him is
hell, the Jews are a bad lot, Allah is ruthless but to the believer
kind—such degradations from the old rationales of faith are not
dissonant from religion. Mohammed proceeds, after Moses, to instruct the
faithful in diet, in justice, in commerce, marriage, war. His plan of
success generates its power shrewdly from the normal appetites: man’s
dream of heaven, his fear of hell, his love of woman, his thirst for
water, his need of forgiveness whenever he has burned his fingers. Here,
too, there is no divergence from the usual theocratic Code. But the
Koran is distinguished by the relative place of God and of man’s
experience of God within the system.
Go back not to the Mishna, and the Prophets; but to the barbarous Torah.
Science and method are as demoded here as ethics. Blood and corporal
anguish are obsessive symbols. Justice is a matter of plagues and
trumpetings. Yet is God present. These old fathers would be abstract
save for the dwelling in them of a universal principle, called Jehovah.
It is He who moves these semi-savage tales. Hunger for a common
experience which, being both true and beautiful, is divine, informs the
acts of these men, directs their faltering passage. In the suicidal will
of the Buddhist, in the Dionysian dance of the Greek, in the metaphysic
of Paul or of Plotinus, dwells ever variant this single purpose: the
will to fuse (though it be to fuse with loss) man’s personal act and his
experience of the universal. This is religion. It is not in the
religious mechanics of Mohammed.
The Prophet invites Heraclius, emperor of Rome, to join or to
acknowledge him. He is denied, of course. But Islam is a “carry-all.” It
assimilates Mary and Jesus quite as it has garbled the Talmud. It places
Mohammed at the top of an agglomeration unified by him from the whirling
chaos of the east. Energy, thus drawn from a hundred confusions, thrusts
in a hundred directions.
. . . . . .
If classic Islam is not essentially a religion, it is an Idea. An Idea
in motion. Its motion is horizontal; and its premiss of departure is
success. The follower of the Prophet cannot lose. At the worst comes
death: death in holy warfare means beatitude and houris. But Mohammed
does not lean too heavily on so dim a guerdon. He has genius in the arts
of diplomacy and war. He fights innumerable battles, and nearly always
he wins. When he does lose, he turns defeat into a strategic triumph. In
his first lean years as a Prophet, he has garnered a rare capital for a
religious leader: that capital is material success. He loans out his
prestige at a usurer’s rates. It is clear, soon enough, that to follow
Mohammed means victory in arms, means booty, means fresh women.
Health in Islam became a state of profitable war. From the mobile chaos
of the desert was created this intent mobility of advance. Islam was a
perpetual raid. Its health meant war: and war meant expedition,
conquest, ultimate death. The contrary of war, of health, of Islam—was
then the dwelling in the present life, and was Peace.
What contrast to the Jew in these brother Semites! Their mobility of
steel to the chemic mobility of Judah! The Idea of Islam has indeed for
matrix the unrest, physical and spiritual, of the Roman world. Peoples
stirred, because the great People were broken. The interior displacement
acted like suction on the peripheries of Rome. Dreams of power, opiate
creeds went through the windy world, creating new currents, creating and
moving new masses. Araby was drawn, so: and awoke. But this Idea of the
Arab could not have lived so well within the womb of the world had it
been alien to the Arab soul. In the Arab, as in all desert people,
worked the impulse of expansion.
Here Arab and Jew are one. Who has seen the desert understands: this
indomitable urge born of the sand-sea, to be moving, to pass horizons,
to be moving forever. The desert impulse in the Hebrew was sublimated.
Not his body, but his god should pass horizons! When the Jews’ body
migrated, Jehovah became static. Only when the body took deep roots—in
Palestine, in Spain, in the Talmud at worst (in America perhaps
tomorrow)—could the transfigured Jewish God pass the horizons. But the
balance held: as the Jews’ spirit spread, their body remained an atom.
With the Arabs, it was the body that expanded. Before the Prophet, it
had expanded impotently in civil conflict. Mohammed brought this energy
to order. But even he knew of no principle of expansion higher than the
raid and the empire.
Arabia expanded. Persia, Abyssinia, India, Egypt, the Sahara, Spain
became parts of Islam that was Araby in motion. The Jew discovered that
to spread in the spirit was to be immobile in the life. Not so the Arab.
The Jew learned that only an unmoving and an unmoved God could pass
horizons. But in Islam, to expand still meant to move. The law of
balance between inner and outer energy was not transcended. The Idea of
Islam became all body: all moving, conquering body. Here went the
Moslem energy. The energy that dwelt in that hid precinct of creative
thought was sapped to a low ebb. In the person of Mohammed, there was
energy both for conquest and for the subtler dominance of law and
wisdom. He elected that the ideas, the forms, the rituals, the
experience, and truth which he created should suffice for all time for
his peoples. All their powers might hence be transformed into the
stupendous business of outward conquest.
Of course, this was not strictly to be. Many ideas of Islam were born
after the Prophet’s death. Even the Koran may have been amended. The
Moslem architectures, the Moslem philosophies both mystical and
materialistic, much of the Moslem ritual, would have been strange to
Mohammed. But independent growths of the spirit could not become organic
within Islam. For in the Idea, there was the law that only Body of Islam
could expand: its thought and vision were create, forever. In
consequence, the few new crystallizations called forth by the new needs
of Islamic empire became endowed at once with the old principle of
fixity, with the sanctity of intransigent stagnation. The body moved.
The forms of the body did not move. Wherefore, as soon as the body
ceased to add unto itself by outward conquest, it began to rot.
This is the tragedy of Islam. It is writ large in symbols of the
present. Fez and Rbat and Bagdad are fetid relics of gone loveliness.
Their life has no virtue of rejuvenation; there was in Islam no autonomy
of method for the creating of ideas whereby life is recreated. The Arab
literary language is identical with the Koran’s. Dogma declares that the
hodge-podge splendor of Mohammed’s script is perfection: who shall dare
change perfection? So Arabic literature today is an archaic grimace: a
spirit muffled by the masque of thirteen hundred years. And the spoken
language, as divergent from the classic as French from Latin, is noisy
and yet mute. Moslem architecture has not evolved. The mosque of today
is a faithful imitation of some antique model. Prayer has not changed.
Science has not changed. The Idea of Islam has forbidden its own growth.
But if this death from inanition is patent in modern Islam, it is
implicit in the source. The fruit, only, of the religious impulse lives,
for it alone holds the rounding of life’s circle. The religious act—be
it art or be it ethics—cannot exhaust itself, because each forward step
is an approach to the beginning. The man possessed of religion is
possessed of a universal principle; and what he does cannot die. The
forms and words of his activity may grow archaic—like the sculpture of
Egypt, like the gods of the Rig-Veda. But the activity itself is forever
an approach to the Source. The farther the religious man goes afield,
the closer he will come to the Primordial Fountain, since all his life
is plotted to a circle. And if he lose his life, then will he win it.
But with the unreligious will, each act is a severance from source. The
unreligious is the incomplete. And its symbol is the unreal straight
line which moves away from its beginning.[5]
Even in its classic mosque, Islam betrays its unreligious essence. The
mosque is a patchwork of details, a mosaic of finery for the senses. The
very character of the mosaic is unreligious. For it represents the
analytic, not the One. The minaret has no relation with the aspirant
Phallus, or with the sublimated Phallus of the Christian church. The
minaret is a down-tending structure upon which the muedzin stands, not
to send prayer to Allah, but orders to the people.
The religion of the Koran is a caricature of God drawn in the lying
lines of time and space.
The sun is hidden from this dawn. The snow range is a crest to the south
and east. Air, pouring over, cold and hard like pearls, is the dawn upon
Spain. Tidy huertas are green crystals in the dawn. Villages,
orange-marged, make a pied flash in it. Fig and olive march in armies up
the slopes of the Sierra, toward snow, toward dawn. When the sun stands
at last in the ridge, the day is hot.
This is the south. After Guadix, toward the eastern sea, the human world
grows dim. The carretera, at the entrance of a town, slides in a slough
of mud. Rain is rare and violent; it becomes a torrent from the
impervious mountain. Dark men in black grimed capes walk beside laden
donkeys. Women herd goats; the tuberous udders sticking on the mud.
Children are rhythms in a maze of rags. The eyes of humans are like the
eyes of burros.
The Sierras have disappeared behind the depopulous hills. The verdant
valleys of Granada are folded back. Villages here are hard like the
parched clay. The carretera is a swathe of dust, glittering in the sun.
The land is sere as if a flame dwelt on it. The eyes of humans are
velvet dark, like the eyes of a dream.
Murcia, now. Even the sparse irrigated huertas disappear. The barbarous
abruptness of the soil turns to desert. Villages are a single eyeless
street of houses, abject under the eye of the sun. The world is a
turmoil of yellow waste. The villages are splinters of the waste. Only,
to break the yellow, walls of cactus—a Maya-like green sculpture
matching its lush planes with the harsh planes of the clay. Goats, dusty
and crabbed, crop an invisible herb. The Barbary fig is the olive and
the grape of this land. Villages grow lower, sparser—merge with the
desert. Villages disappear.
Under the sky huge mounds of sterile hill rise now; and on their slopes,
red and advancing with the mirrored sun, are serried shadows. Caves.
Villages of caves. This is below Phœnicia in time. This is Iberia. A
Spanish folk still dwells here.
The hills are steep. There is a row of caves, horizontally curved. Above
each cave is a tiny aperture for smoke. Then comes another row. In the
foreground, the cactus is cultivated for its fruit. There is a hooded
well.
It is not yet noon. But the summer sun has turned the heaven into
irradiant steel. Light and heat strike like solids on the solid soil, on
the intricate levels of the hills. In their rebound, light and heat
become polyphonous, weaving the world into their image.
The sun, rising, faints into its own immensity of heat. And the cave
villages grow larger. Between them, the sterile hills leap in a monotone
against the day’s pressure. A cave town flings sheer to the ridge of a
pyramidal mountain. A hundred threads of smoke thresh the air like
filaments of wire. Caves are dark eyes that hide from the steel heaven.
The eyes of the dwellers are caves.
Shadow is cold. Here is a town with houses. Where the sun strikes the
street, horses, donkeys, moving forms of people gyre and funnel and
become a fume in the sun. Signs on shops, blue shutters, yellow parasols
of women tremble and swerve as if they were in flame. But shadow is
cold.
Outside, there is desert and the sky has melted. All the steel strokes
of the sun, beating down, beating up, are melted: heaven has fallen into
waves. Villages live in this fierce element. Men and women, donkeys and
goats live in this radiant sea.
Over the brow of a despoblado, the sun goes. The desert flattens, like
a sea after storm. The sterile hills are farther away, and on the even
plain there is grass. The desert becomes a moor. Salt wort suggests the
ocean. The road circles, catching the sun again. The sun splinters and
breaks on the moor. Huge masses of dried dung, the fuel of these people,
catch a last ray. There is a hill, dark-mottled. The hill is a city. At
the height, there are caves and dwellings cut in clay. At the base,
there is dust: and in the dust are streets.
Sordid wineshops, stores, squat in the dust. All is dust save the people
who are clay; clay black-baked in the sun.
a. El Andalús
b. The Eye
c. The Bowels
d. A Goddess and Don Juan
e. The Gypsies Dance
f. Spain Dances
In the year of Islam 89 and of Christ 711, an Arab host recruited with
proselytes from the pagan Berbers and the Christian Copts, and captained
by Târik whose name is a fossil in the rock Gibraltar (Jebel Târik)
crossed the strait from Africa to Europe. After seven summers, all
Spain, even to the Galician mountains, was in the sway of the Prophet.
To their new conquest the Arabs gave the name Andalús, which means the
land of the west.
Their first pause was in a smiling world. Southern Spain, roughly the
part which is Andalusia now, for many ages had drawn the wandering
hungers of the nations. Here had been Tartessos, the Tarshish of the
thunder of Isaiah, a realm near the present sites of Seville and Cadiz,
known as the Land of Silver and whose greatness was synchronous with
Crete. Here had been Phœnician Malaca and Gades, cities famous for their
gay vice. Here had been Bætican Rome, birthplace of Seneca and of the
Stoic mind which in reality was Spanish. Here, from Babylon, came the
urgent Jews among the indolent Visigoths. A smiling world. On the
breasts of the Sierras, groves of olive and of cork. In the valleys
rivers that were veins of wealth. Luxuriant crops, fat kine, orchards
and vineyards: shade: and by the alternance of sun and cool a natural
culture. Now within this mellowness, the harsh Idea born of the desert
dearth.
Historians will give you the facts: how Andalusia did not hold the Arab:
how he swarmed the mesas of Castile: how he fanned east to the Ebro and
west to the Asturias: how only stubborn knots of Basques withheld him:
how he scaled the abrupt wall of Spain and poured down the suaver
Pyrenees of France; and how at last, near Poictiers, he was stopped by
Charles Martel and driven back forever. The truth is otherwise. Not the
Franks, but the smiling south of Spain stopped Islam. When the Arabs
faced the French at “Tours,” they were turned back already. The desert,
the mountains, the incessant war could not weaken Islam. These were its
food and its health. But Andalusia was poison. A luxuriant land worked
on the spirit of the Arab, causing in the rear a flinching and
dissension. This, several years after the “defeat of Tours,” caused the
return from France.
Often is the question asked: what Islam did to Spain? The first response
must be another question: what did Spain make of Islam? Spain was there
when the Arab came. She was far older than Islam, far more populous.
This Celtiberian base which it is simple and safe to call the Spaniard
is a strange people. It is warlike,[6] yet submits to conquest: it is
indolent yet dwells in a harsh land: it is inarticulate and savage yet
transforms its masters. Carthage has come and gone. Rome has faded,
after creating in Spain a spirit that is not found in other parts of
Rome. The Visigoths make their easy conquest. They are touched by urban
Rome already ere they come; they are no longer the rude Germans of the
Rhine. Rome has annulled their savagery. Their nature is rural but their
will is urban. Their nature is the foray, but their will is Pax Romana.
They have no metaphysical hunger, yet they spend their might defending
Arianism against the cross-fires of North Africa and Europe. Their
history in Spain is their dissolution; their complete absorption in the
mute, indefeasible mass of Spain which they are supposed to rule. When
Târik defeats Roderick, last Visigothic king, the business is done. But
henceforth, German blood suffuses like a golden glow the flesh of
Iberia which has already drunk the Celt, the Semite, the Greek, the
Latin.
There has been no drama. This process is instinctive. Spain lives like a
tree with her roots close and her branches harboring the seasons. She
has taken to herself the nourishment of wind and rain, the steadfastness
of sun. All Spain takes in is Spain. In her own vague life, an Idea has
been born, expressive of her chaos. Now, she takes in an alien Idea to
work upon her.
The Arabs found their kingdom. In 755, but a generation after their
arrival, Abd-er-Rahman I who sits at Córdoba breaks with the Moslem
east. Almost at once, the Islam that came to Spain assumes a separate
being, grows into a body independent of Bagdad and Damascus. This
separation means a transformation. And the cause of it is Spain.
The nature of Islam, we have seen, is like the nature of the pioneer.
Pioneer values—motion, violence, acquisition, conquest—bear the Idea
of the desert race, moving toward horizons. The Idea is not the horizon
nor the water beyond it: it is the moving forever toward the
unmastered goal. Earth, in such psychology, takes on the delusive aspect
of a flying road. And mortal life is synonymous with earth. It is a
passing stretch. And it is close to death; for it is unreal and it is
dark. The true life, the life of the Idea is that forever unattained, is
that toward which our mortal days are an incessant moving. True life,
then, is beyond that death which this life truly is. And to attain it,
this life should be trampled like a road.
The Idea has its adornments: as in pioneering, they will be simplicity
of living and of thought; violence, cruelty, intolerance for all that
bars the goal; and the equally violent reflex from these—the narcotics
of sleep and sensual relaxation.
Islam’s Idea now comes in the land of Spain. And the Moslem hosts who
bear it and live to nourish it, settle in the south where settling is
easy. And having settled down, they build a culture whose like the
world sees seldom and whose causal spirit is essentially opposed to the
Idea of Islam. For the Idea of Islam cannot settle down.
Mohammed and his captains knew no such world as this that sends its
radiance from Córdoba. Nor would they have found it good. The Prophet
would have thundered: “This is blasphemy and failure. This is turning
from the commands of Allah. Rather than invent new forms of splendor for
your mosques, ye would do well to push on. What? Ye consort with the
Jew? Ye are tolerant with the Christian? suffering his monasteries to
abide in Islam? Ye turn a peaceful back on the Frank and leave to the
Christian Basques the holy labor of driving Charlemagne and Roland from
Roncesvalles? And ye study Aristotle? when the Koran holds all wisdom?
Ye tolerate schools who explain the creation of the world by natural
laws? when I have taught ye of the Hand of Allah.” Mohammed was wise. He
knew that the nature of the Arab, the Idea of Islam, the conduct of the
people must be one, else the Idea would fall. But if Mohammed was wise,
this kingdom of south Spain was luminous. Jews collaborated in
government, science, art. Christians brought their mysteries and their
music; and those who chose to pray in convents were not molested. An
architecture was developed. Poetry and thought flourished like grass of
the fields.
What had happened to Islam? The Idea born of the desert had become
detached from the life of the desert people, when it lay down in this
smiling southland. Life relaxed from the stern rigor of the Faith and
took unto itself new forms, consonant with its relaxation: Islam whose
health was war desired peace.
Meantime, Spain’s absorption of invading bloods went on. Christian,
Arab, Berber, Copt—each with a past mingling—mingled. There lived soon
again in southern Spain, one people: but there lived now three Ideas.
The Christian was the least self-conscious, the least active; the
Jewish was an insidious minority; the Moslem was dominant. These three
Ideas were fleshed in human beings; and the human beings were virtually
one. There were Moslem lords, whose ancestry counted Visigoths and Jews;
there were Christian bishops in whose veins flowed Yemen and Berber
blood; there were Jewish poets whose mothers had been reared in a Harem.
Under all, there was the immemorial base outnumbering the rest. It had
been pagan, Catholic, Arian, Catholic again. Now for a while, it was
Moslem. Within a hundred years of the African invasion, Spain was once
more inhabited by Spaniards.
Yet a new element had arisen, which was destined to grow tragic. The
Idea of Islam touched into new intensity the Ideas of Jew and Christian.
Jew, Christian, Arab, settled down and married. But the three Ideas,
grown virulent, did not marry. They made war.
. . . . . .
Islam, meantime, moves from Andalusia north. And as it conquers Spain,
the Catholic Reconquest which for near eight centuries holds Spain in
blood is cradled in the tiny mountain kingdoms of Asturias and Aragon.
Where the Moslem settles, the land becomes Moslem. Often it changes
hands in the long war’s tides. But the people, like a tree, stays with
its roots. Fresh Moslems may perhaps come to live in a province soon
reconquered by the Christian. They will become Christian, too. It is one
people. The struggle is between a Cross and a Crescent. And the hands
which bear them are of a single body.
Islam, battling in the desert north, has settled to peace in the south
and fallen from the Idea of Islam. But battling in the desert north it
takes its Idea along—its temper and its nature. And these, it gives
unto the Christian foe! Rigorous desert traits flourish in Christian
Aragon and Castile. For here is desert again, and violence as the matrix
of the world. So the Christians of the north, facing Islam in battle,
live ever closer to the Idea of Islam. War is an embrace fertile like
love. Traits of Christian and Moslem pass in osmosis. And there comes
the day when warlike Catholics from the north press on the gentled
Mussulmans of the south with true Islamic rigor. And the Moslem south
must look to Africa for Moslems close enough to the Idea of Islam to be
able to withstand these northern Christians. And the war has no cease,
being a war not of bloods but of souls.
We are still in the first scenes of the play whose tragedy begins only
when the clash of arms is over. Let us dwell awhile in Andalusia, first
home of the Moslem and his last in Spain.
There are places of earth like eyes. They have more than a proportionate
share of the light and the fire. They hold, within a fragile cup of
space, measures infinitely deep. Córdoba is an eye within the face of
Spain.
But Córdoba is dead? This whirl of houses is a husk of splendor, a strew
of ancient ash here and there speaking still in remnant eloquence of
arch or Square? Córdoba is not dead. Its life is impalpable like that
within an eye. Something has lived on in Córdoba. There was vision here:
that quickening of the nerves to the spheres of life which we call
vision. Here was an eye that saw; and it still sees despite the
catalepsy of the ages. Perhaps no eye that truly sees is ever blind.
Perhaps if within this cup of the Sierras there was today no Mosque, no
subtle nerve of house and street, Córdoba still would be an eye; and if
our sense were sharp enough to meet it, there would rise to us yet the
Word of its incarnate knowledge.
. . . . . .
The Mosque is open to a patio with orange trees, palms, fountains
whose pallid water runs in counterpoint with the fervor of mosaic and
tile. Women with their children stand about, filling their huge earth
water-jars, setting them down in the shade of a palm to talk. A girl
sings quiet and incessant: like the cool water over the stones her notes
diverge from the hard hot day. On the medieval Puerta del Perdón the
Christian saints and regal arms set up their theme against the Moslem
mass of the Mosque. To the sides are colonnaded cloisters. But to the
south under the blare of sun in the white sky is the Mosque itself.
Nineteen arched gates make way into its open forest.
Hundreds of columns various like trees. They are all low: from their
smooth shafts the arches of red and white rise agilely to the ceiling
which once was a maze of lace-like wood, inlaid. The movement of the
columns becomes horizontal. Pillars of many marbles, of jasper, of
porphyry, merge in the sweeping spread. There is no Gothic aspiration.
There is a maze of delicate shafts with their heads arched and
arabesqued, prancing in cohorts between a dull floor and a dull roof. In
the heart of this battalioned whirl, stands the Catholic Capilla Mayor
which the Cathedral Chapter placed there in the sixteenth century. It is
a formless embryon of gilt and marble. It replaces sixty Arabic columns
and its heavy flesh rises far higher than the legion of shafts about it.
It is perhaps the greatest monument in Spain of the inæsthesia of
Spanish consciousness. But with the worst intentions, it has not broken
the spirit of the Mosque. The dance of the pillars moves toward this
obtrusion, swirls before it to the right and left, sweeps graciously
beyond into the shadows. Svelte and exquisite columns with their
double-arched head-dress, with their fleet ankles and
shoulders—marshaled like an army—move with the undulance of earth to
the Mihrab of Abd-er-Rahman and Al-Hakim. The Mihrab is the cynosure
of prayer. Before it sits the Master to direct discourse with Allah. The
Mihrabs of Córdoba are gems so bright that they make a ghostly swirl of
the columns. Individual vibrancies of gem, of mosaic, of marbles frail
as sea-shells, fuse into fixity. The Mihrab is the goal of the columns.
So, within Córdoba, stands and lives today the Idea of Islam. Though the
Spaniards call it a Cathedral, it is still the Mesjid al-Jâmi, open to
the fountains and the naranjeros, open to the skies. It is a place
whose spirit in racing columns bespeaks the horizontal swarm of Islam to
the ends of Spain. Islam speaks; and Córdoba, which is far more than
Islam, answers. The Córdoban streets press and swerve to the north of
the Mosque. They are a compact of stresses doubly held together: the
Guadalquivir turning back upon itself and the rim of mountains in whose
heights still live the fertile prayers of hermits, hold the streets.
Córdoban streets are not like those of Fez, of the Kasbah of Algiers, of
Lisbon. Fez, within its translucent hills and vales, swarms like the
entrails of a body. Algiers mounts sinister from the gleaming sea, its
streets a blackened coil within the white sepulcher that strikes the
sun. Old Lisbon is explosive, gyrant, tragically repressed in its march
upward, losing the sky as it comes closer to it. Córdoba is proud. Its
pride is intricate as the Talmud; hard and abstruse as the mystic creed
of the Sufi; open as a page of Aristotle. This eye that is Córdoba is
neither secret nor flinching. And its pride is not willful. Córdoba is
unassertive. Its light speaks for it: Seneca the Stoic, Averroës the
Commentator, Moses ben Maimun first rationalist of the Jews, Lucan, and
Spain’s greatest lyric poet, Luis de Góngora ... such are the light of
Córdoba. It is the home of the most perfect Arab Knight, the quiet
Al-Mansor who, ruling Spain, decreed Sunday to be a day of rest in
deference to the Christians.
Córdoba lies within tumultuous mountains and a lazy river. It is a poise
of mountains and river. It is a kingly city within chaos; it is
masculine in a feminine land. The Christian Copts brought their woman
worship to Seville; the gypsies found haven in Granada for their Black
Sea spells. Córdoba forbids such fascinations. It is quiet as its river,
dense as its mountains, open as its mosque. The streets turn just enough
to throw shade to the patios. Ox-teams survive, yet splash no mud on the
immaculate walls. Here a miracle of life has overtaken the lunge and
death of Islam: here grew a kingdom of balance and of peace.
For Córdoba is not the rock of Seneca, not the intellectual play of
Averroës and Maimonides, not the deep current underneath of mystical
devotion. Córdoba is the balance, and the contemplation, of all its
parts.
. . . . . .
The summer night is cool as wisdom; it is a poise against day like that
of Seneca the Stoic against the fever of life. When the sun falls behind
the roofs, the town opens as northern towns with the dawn. Day indeed is
often fiery night on Córdoba. The good folk have gone to bed; houses
have been swathed to keep this white night out. Now, houses are opened
wide. Air from the world is permitted to come in to the shut courts
where geese patter and women seat themselves at looms.
The people are dark and silent like the dusk. The sky is pale with a
glow of convalescence. The houses, serried in the curving streets, are
hot. The evening has a magic, it throbs and swells with tacit fervors.
The whole of Córdoba is quick under the glow of night. The stone streets
are flesh, willfully rigid, of a spirit possessed with the desire to
dance. And in the dance are darker intimations: cries, ravage, conquest.
But the slow streams of men and women are the sole expression. Are they
puritans, then, these Andalusians? They wear easeful masks for faces.
The women are clad in black, and their soft flesh within the shrouds
seems not the flesh of lovers but of matrons. Even the girls, sinuous
walking lilies, promise a snare of momentary passion: their will of men
is not to be initiates of love, but to be mothers. All is easeful—the
masks on the faces, the dark women’s weeds. They have been worn so long!
They are like the streets whose stones are mellow and whose curves and
windings have the fatality of forest paths. If these be puritans, these
men and women, with their heritage of war, privation, pioneering—they
whose ancestry is Islam, the Cross, the promised Zion—long since has
the hard fruit ripened. They are firm and condignly whole within their
city whose maze of streets is whole within the mountains....
This evening, Córdoba, released from day, is going to the Bull-Ring.
There is no moon; the bowl of the arena holds a winey night in which the
stars are bubbles of effervescence. The seat tiers are deep. Men and
women clamber noisily from perch to perch. But the thousand voices and
footbeats are segregate and aloof within the Ring holding this wine of
the night. Upon one side, the seats have been roped off and are empty.
Below hang two electric lamps and cast their naked glare upon a stage
improvised with unpainted planks. The stage is a little tongue thrust
into the arena.
The crowd has come and paid for a good time. But it is
self-sufficient—the strong willed, resourceful crowd of Spain. Myriad
calls and shreds of laughter, play of hand and foot twine about the
Ring: agglutinate: the groups of clamor thicken and grow wider: the
entire Ring is joined in the enterprise of shouting, shuffling,
clapping. No Spaniards blackening the tiers, but this one sudden Spain!
It has many means of making itself live. Boys scurry over the laps of
matrons: men sing falling cadences to girls: babies shout. The aguero
with an earth-jar large as himself, the vendor of pastas and of Arabic
sweetmeats, weave through the mass. But still the Bowl holds its uncanny
silence. The night bubbles at its brim.
On the stage step forth two figures: the lamp-glare sharpens and deforms
them. A man, stout and short, clad in black broadcloth with a wide
purple sash and linen that is green in the electric glare: he carries a
guitar. A woman, slender and tall: her black mantón is like a subtle
fur over the angular brightness of her shoulders. She wears a large
sombrero ancho, black as the two black eyes in her white face.
They stand within the night, within the crowd. The man takes a chair:
the woman remains isolate beside him. The man’s hands brush the strings
of his guitar. The woman’s mouth opens, and her breast rises. Under the
laced clamor of the crowd she sings unheard—under the silent night....
A note, hard like silver, high and sharp as an arrow, rises above the
clamor and is heard. Far up, it soars, surrounded by the stars. It
falls. And as it falls, reaching the crowd, it links itself within the
vast confusion. This rough-hewn Spain falls along with the note: is
drawn by it down to the naked stage, down to the red mouth of the
singing woman. The crowd is transfigured. The woman’s voice fades into
rest, within an utter silence.
The hand of the guitarist is not lean: yet his fingers make a murmur
like a breeze: clear in the silence is the music’s breathing. The music
has conquered: it is the night’s silence, speaking; the night’s quiet,
moving. The woman’s body stands rigid, her heels beat a tattoo of subtle
restraining: her voice is confident and exultant.
Burden heavy with ages of flesh, bright with ages of dream. Plaint of
spirit, rush of blood miraculously woven. A body in dance, rigid as a
column; a voice in song, light and swift as a bird. Many Orients are
here. In the form, a slender mystic draughtsmanship—Byzantine; a clamor
of soul, a submissiveness of body with all its sweetness and its joys
merged in the ecstasy of an ideal—Jewish; an intensive thrust, lean,
fierce, hunting—Arab. Rising like revelation from the Córdoban Plaza,
this Andalusian song of many wills becomes the drama of Spain.
The woman’s body scarcely moves. Even as she circles the stage, her arms
slowly rising and falling, her heels in periodic showers of sharp
strokes, it is as if she did not move: rather the stage, rather the Ring
and the crowd move than this plastic fixity of dance. Torment, passion,
vision, ruthlessly compress in a thin body.
The music cadence is vertebral. There is a time counterpoint of two
adverse factors: a rising lilt, a falling plaint. And they become the
skeletal arabesque which is the backbone of the Spanish music. All the
voices of Spain’s world are laced. The Jew’s sensual mysticism, conflict
between his homely passions and his cosmic fate, rises in a line more
Arabic than Jewish. And the tendency of the music to transcend its scale
is Byzantine; it bespeaks the North African shores of Porphyry and
Plotinus, of Origen and Augustine. But the stress is more barbarous than
platonic. And the form is forever Spain. Its elements do not suffice
to make this music great. It is greatly moving, because its moving parts
become articulate, not in moments, not progressively, but all at once:
in restraint, in defeat—in the triumph of the artist’s will upon them.
The passion does not depart; a woman’s body holds it and we are moved
not by the passion but by the unmoved victory over passion. This cadence
is a plaint of agony. It does not bend her. This peal is pathos. The
high head, the arms crushing the breast, the torrent of heel-notes rivet
a triumph over pathos. The mouth sings languorous desire; but the body
is hard. Sudden the song flares like a vision from that mouth. But the
body circles the stage in a crisp gayety, the eyes smile, the knees dip
in courteous bestowal.
At the other end of Córdoba, the night lives among the columns of the
Mosque. With arched head and heel of arabesque, they dance their
mystery—a forest of willful movement under the will-less stars. This
woman is a column too; rigid, and stone-like and adance. But the dance
of the Arab columns is horizontal; it is an easeful running with the
earth. The dance of this woman which is a dance of Spain, is deep and is
high. It is not horizontal. So calm, it touches hell. So still, it
reaches God.
The Spanish is the fusion of the warring elements of Spain into dramatic
wholes. As the proportions of these elements change, the wholes change:
and yet are Spanish. Granada, then, is the least Spanish of the towns of
Spain; for, with all the elements there, they have remained disparate.
Even physically, Granada does not resolve its discords. It is cast in
confusion. Two steep spurs come down from the Sierra Nevada. They are
divided by the gorge of the río Darro. Smaller, arid gorges break them,
they expire in a plain. And within this broken sea of rock and ridge and
wood, Granada sits uneasily. One height is Al-Hambra, palace of kings.
From its towers the precipice cuts to the river; and in the west rises
Al-Baicín, a populous suburb. North, beside the river straggles a gypsy
village. And eastward, on another height, is the cascaded, terraced,
tawdry splendor of the Generalife. Physically chaos; culturally,
spiritually chaos.
For near five hundred years, Granada was the capital of a Moslem state.
After the fall of Córdoba, it was independent. And in 1492, when Boabdil
fled from Ferdinand and Isabel, there died the last political body of
Spanish Islam. For close three hundred years, Granada was the richest
and most populous state of Spain. Castile, Aragon, Catalonia were
rustics beside it. But the barbarous states spread; and Granada had
energy neither to spread nor to glow. The barbarous states had fused
their differences in the terrific lust of religious conquest. Castile
and León were closer then to the spirit of Mohammed than the Andalusian
Town in which the muedzins called his name and the people spoke his
tongue. Toledo, Valencia, Badajoz, Seville, Córdoba fell: Granada came
to be the last resort in Spain of the driven Moslems. A veritable city
state it was, going north to Baza, west to Málaga, east to Almería.
Meantime, Spain had converged into an austere camp. Her forests became
deserts, her towns were empty of men, her women suckled warriors, her
churches were the centers of recruiting. And Granada shone with ease. In
Granada, the wide lands were gardens; husbandry was an art. The cities
sang with ceramic and jewels. The mosques were models for the mosques of
Africa.
Córdoba had been the seat of Arab Spain. Granada was the heart of the
Moor. When the Arabs were too wasted by peace and thought and quarrel to
withstand the pressing Christians, they turned to the south whence four
hundred years before they too had come, clad only in the harsh will of
the Prophet. In the Moroccan mountains and the deserts, dwelt still
virgin tribes in whom the Idea of Islam worked with the virulence of
birth. This was the need of Spanish Islam. So the Moors came to Spain to
do what the Arabs had done and could do no longer. The Moors drove back
the Christians. Then they turned and subdued the Arabs. Arab Andalusia
was Moorish.
(And here we must digress for definitions.... The greatness of Granada
came with the Nazrite dynasty whose founder, Al-Ahmar, captured the town
in 1238 from the Moorish Almohades. And Al-Ahmar, born in Córdoba,
claimed descent from the pure Yemen Arabs of Kharzrej and Ansár. Which
is important, since it displays the dangers of speaking, biometrically,
of a race. The family that reigned in Moorish Granada was perhaps as
Arab as the dynasties of Córdoba and Seville! And of course, the very
first Arabs in Spain brought with them Berbers, negroes, Copts. Why then
was Córdoba Arab, and Granada Moorish?... We require the names, and for
them there are reasons. The first Moslem invasion was Arab: for its
impulse, its energy, its leadership came straight from the Arabs. And
that first Moslem culture which from Córdoba held all Spain north to
Toledo, south, west, east to the seas was also Arab for the identical
reason. Now come fresh leaders to defend Moslem Spain; and when they
have driven back Castile they disperse the Arab masters who bade them
in. These hosts come in two waves: the Almoravides—men of
religion—are Berbers from the Senegal, and the Almohades—men of the
Unity—are Berbers from the Atlas. It is right to call them Moors since
they rose to power in Morocco. And it is right to call their dominance
in Spain the Moorish epoch since, after their coming, the culture of all
Moslem Spain not only differed from that of Córdoba but was deeply
homogeneous within itself despite political chaos.) ...
In the towns of Spain lived still the Spaniard with his absorption of
Semite, African, Latin, German. But the difference of the Moor from the
Arab was a change in his Idea and in the ways of life begotten by it.
The Christian forces were vastly stronger than they had been. Their own
Idea had been enhanced by Moslem contact. They were come a long ways
from the invertebrate Christianity of the Visigoths. The first Moslem
sweep to Biscay and the Pyrenees had planted a germ of resistance which
with the ages grew to be this vital Christian body, a body stripped and
ruthless as ever had been Islam. So the Moor could not, like the Arab,
dismount from his saddle to invite his soul. The Moor did not become
tolerant under pleasant skies. He welcomed no Jewish thinkers and
statesmen, he housed no Christian convents. Under the benignity of peace
he made no introverted, rational culture. When the Moor rested, it meant
that he was weary; and then he invited his body. Arab refinement became
voluptuousness; Arab ease became prostration. The energy of the Idea of
Islam had by the Arab been transformed into a contrasting culture.
Under the Moor it became at best a reposing culture. And indeed, the
Idea did not change. Christian armies saw to that. But the need of
Islam—to expand—could not be fulfilled. The Christian armies saw to
that, as well. Here then was a warlike energy that could not spread and
yet could not transform. It turned against itself. Moor fought Moor.
Granada alone held long to the appearance of a dignified state. And the
appearance was false. Moorish Granada helped the Christian San Fernando
to march against Moorish Seville, as a century before Moorish troops had
helped the Cid win Moorish Valencia. A hundred years ere its fall,
dynastic quarrels had split Granada into a chaos of tiny states; the
Catholic Kings needed to take it piecemeal in a series of raids on petty
princes.
. . . . . .
The Idea of Islam is no more within this lovely world. But high and low,
strewn through the summits and the troughs of the Sierra, lives the
wreckage of the Moorish body. Across a gorge, Al-Baicín and Al-Hambra
face each other. Al-Hambra! all that may be said of the skill of the
goldsmith may be said of this Palace, with its scores of patios and
halls. It brings to mind, not other architectures but the triumphs of
the Cellinis of the Renaissance, the delicate perfections in Pompeii and
in Egyptian tombs. In minute and marvelous grace, it transcends them
all: and yet it is a building!
Within the patio de los arrayanes there is a pool enclosed in myrtle
as a sapphire within emerald. Overhead is the soft pale sky. Beyond the
sala de la barca, arched like a ship, is the Ambassadors’ Hall, its
dome an incessancy of carven woods, columns and walls so tooled that
they seem lace threaded with gems. Myriad patios on either side are
myriad surprises of wood, plaster, stone that flows with arabesques and
softens to the creaminess of linens.
Some architectures make one think of man; some make one think of God;
some, of the tragic struggle in men’s flesh between the man and the god.
Al-Hambra exiles both the earth and heaven. That a palace lacks high
poetry, movement of aspirance, is not amiss. But Al-Hambra lacks as well
the sense of being made for men to dwell in. It is cold as a jewel and
as a jewel hard. Yet unlike other jewels, it adorns no breast and no
altar. It is faëry. Yet unlike other visions of surprise, it does not
entice the mind. It is no outward form of the old dreams. Nor is it
strong, save as some stellar gem, fallen in the mud of our world, has
its impregnable strength. It is immaculate of men. It is too far from
man, too far from God. It is not strong, yet it is not poetic. Poetry
must pay its tribute. If it sing a blade of grass, a kingdom, a
divinity—yet it must make its tribute to the world: man in giving music
gives himself. Al-Hambra, for all its matchless grace, is incarnate of
no warmth, no joy, no agony, no love.... It is a jeweled monster; a sort
of dissociate birth of human will. Although its tints are magic, its
curves delicate as a woman’s mouth, its forms courteous, and its stuffs
transfigurations of the elements into the radiance of silk and the
sweetness of wool, yet it is but a fragment. Its rapture parts not from
itself. It is Narcissus. It is a Golem of the Moors.
. . . . . .
The rock of Al-Hambra falls into the river and on the farther side rises
Al-Baicín, antiphony of Al-Hambra.
In the days of the first Nazrites, here was a place of noble mansions.
But when the Moslems, exiled from conquered towns, poured into Granada,
Al-Baicín became what it is now—a swarming city. This is as near to the
Kasbah of Algiers, to the dense Attarine of Fez as you may come in
Spain. The town is a lay of alleys maggoting up the breast of the
Sierra. The throngs are dark, aburst with energy. Eyes are gentle and
give forth no light. Faces are locked as if in obscure struggle of
themselves. This folk is neither gay nor sad, savage nor kind. It
partakes of the ineffable nature of the houses. What it is, what it has
to say—as with the houses—is detached from the hour, is a minglement
of nostalgia and obsession. An incommunicable town, knowing no tongue
save an archaic one: its houses speak not to us but to their own old
shadows.
A patio stable with its mangy mules, a gigantic oven where bread in
memorial Moorish shapes is thrust at the end of a pole ... such are the
words of the streets. Beneath the language which the people speak, this
rhythmic word of the streets.
Al-Baicín has a soul. What Al-Baicín lacks is body! Groveling life
within an ancient molder of walls, patios, wine shops black as
warts—this life so halted, so disgraced, so blind is life that lacks a
body. And there, polished clean of the clamors of the spirit, shines the
body on the opposite hill—soulless Al-Hambra.
The air is spiced with murmur, throat call, peal, with stirring of feet,
clink of earth-jar; it is a weave through which the horse’s hoof, flick
of whip, ar-r-ra and shuh of driver make a swathe. Singing cry of a
girl, crying song of a girl cascade to church bells.... Silence.... A
little square (Castilians say patio, Andalusians say compás) holds
an alicatado fountain: thin water within a sapphire bowl wavers,
splinters, fades like stars at a dawn. All about, the wings of a vast
Church. Fortress-like they rise, rise in terrace, in forest of
sculpture, in buttresses that sweep out of sight. And straight above, a
tower. It is the old prayer tower of a mosque—al-minar: the muedzin
post which the Christians call Giralda.
In the compas, it is cool; high overhead within the well of the walls,
the heat of afternoon is writhing. Heat cannot pierce the eight foot
walls of the tower. A pavement, so gradual and wide that a coach could
follow it, climbs to the peak. There are windows to tell how you climb.
The Cathedral, resonant with statues; the stucco palace of the Bishop
beside a compas sleepy and cool like a virgin at dawn; a slant of street
with houses dodging sun.... Cathedral roof, a groined and columned
symphony with transepts trilling in overtones away; a knot of buttresses
that scale a higher wall you could not guess was there; a grove of
turrets against the town, green trees; a line of river; town itself keen
in the gyrant air ... guitar-like music under the voice of the sun. A
scarf of hill, treeless and red. A court within the sapphire day like
rubies and emeralds—the patio de los naranjos—a frame of creamy
walls holding the rows of orange trees. The top of Giralda.
Seville: No, this body is Isbilíya. Town of the Visigoths, the Yemen
Arabs and the Copts, alcázar of the Moorish Yusuf who built Giralda,
town whence Ferdinand of Castile with the aid of his friend the Moslem
of Granada drove countless Moslems in 1248, bringing in other men who
said Christ, not Allah—said it in the same Mosque rechristened, in the
same town, under the same sun, from the same Giralda.
The repeopling, the christening could not avail against the might of
this past. Christ dimmed again; Our Lady grew. Our Lady who was Isis ere
she was Mary: consort of Osiris, Horus, Khem, ere she sat with Jesus.
And in her hand, through Seville, through Andalusia, a lily that does
not grow in Spain but grows indeed on the Nile ... lily or lotus or more
simply still la flor in all heraldry, all holy craft of the land. For
Islam had passed to Egypt and won the Christian Copts who were in heresy
for that they adored a living Trinity and had no Christ on the Cross, a
trinity older than the Pyramids with the new Christian names. And now,
for an age, their trinity disappeared. But Our Lady became Fatima,
daughter of the Prophet and virgin although she bore miraculous sons.
And Arab and Copt march on to Spain. And the Christian saint comes
south. And the mosque of Seville is again the church of Our Lady. And
from Seville to Rome goes the first urgency to make a dogma of the
Immaculate Conception....
The town is so very thick with houses, where are the streets? Those
sharp cracks weaving through the roofs are streets? The roofs are live,
bewildering planes. White flat roofs under dominant chimneys. Roofs that
run with their walls. Roofs that are clusters of rush. Roofs that are
little gardens for goats and chickens. Roofs that are vineyards. Roofs
that are nurseries. Roofs that are streets on which stand huts of turf.
In a court, is a palm; its round head sends green star-rays to the sky.
The town is so very wide; solid it rings you. The breaks are breathings
for a palm, or a wide wall with crenellated top or a tiled dome like a
jewel in the breast of Seville. Thick town ... intricate, turning
roofs. Until the sudden stop! Seville does not linger. There is thick
town, then huerta. Country gardens are perfumed brasiers. A wandering
ribbon of low trees marks the sleepy river creeping down to the copper
wall of sunset....
It is cool now. They have drawn to the roof tops the canopies that
shield the streets. Now let you go down into Seville.
. . . . . .
Varying weathers fall upon Seville. In summer days, she smiles resilient
and cool within a fire that shrivels the river. In winter, under a
slatey sky with her streets drenched, she is smiling still. Weather and
invasions come upon Seville; she masters them all.
She is an Eastern goddess unknown of the Greeks, whose cult is sung with
cymbals and in blood. She is no Semite; she is the antistrophe in this,
as in all things, of her great brother of the north: Toledo. Within the
huddle of her streets, lives clarity; within her sudden and esconded
curves, glows coolness. She is immeasurably far from the hot Jew and
Arab. Seville is Pagan. But her pagan spirit is uniquely hers. It is not
dark and carnal like the Sumerian; not analytic, open-eyed like the
Greek; it lacks the Italic will. Nor is it Berber. This spirit has a
spirit; the Giralda. To see Giralda from the town is to see both the
tower and Seville. Everywhere al-minar follows. It is cool in the sun;
in the damp of winter it is gleam. On the river’s margin where vessels
coal, it is a yesterday when ships had sails. Its simple face is
strength above the prone complexity of life. Variant, it is constant,
sovereignly self-contained. It mirrors men’s perceptions, who can see of
it at each moment but a flash of time. It stands for Seville whose
traits and deeds are facets of a Crystal.
This fixity, this intricate appearance within fixity is the deep trait
of Seville. Her genius, her emotions, her religion are in fixity for
they are held unwavering to herself. She looks not at Spain nor the
world. Not like Venus does this goddess walk and give herself to men.
Not like Astarte, thirst for the blood of others. Not like Isis is she
concerned with the cycles of sun and planet. Seville loves only herself;
and the moon and stars are brilliants for her hair.
. . . . . .
The narcism of Seville is fecund. The gorgeous litany of the Semana
Santa is but the most famous of her arts. Religion is but the most
obvious pretext of her self-worship. Seville abounds in dramas and in
altars of her self-delight. Wander through her streets, commune with her
churches and cafés, watch her ample daughters dance to the splendor of
their own high breasts; read the legends—Don Juan, La Macarena. An hour
will come, perhaps at dusk in the park along the river, when she will
tell her secret:
“The Guadalquivir is my scarf of saffron; the orange blossoms sing
the chant of my flesh; the sky is a mantón of rose and purple on my
white shoulders. Church and God, love, blood and death are
castanets! I am Real. I am the dancer. I am Isbilíya.”
. . . . . .
Sierpes, chief street of the town, is a bit of a way with a crick in its
middle: too narrow for horses and mules: the lines of shops and clubs
face each other across a slender sidewalk. When the good weather comes
the doors open; the clubs and cafés pile chairs pell-mell upon the
street. And Seville sits down and looks at herself. Drinks coffee,
Manzanilla wine, and looks at herself. Eats mariscos and looks some more
at herself. Athwart the Sierpes, other streets are a maze of tiny shops:
shops small and delicate like toys, shops secret and uncommercial like
the good Majas[7] who keep them, shops with too deep modesty to display
their wares and too little will to have much wares to display. Reticent,
charming shops like the hearts of simple folk, so full they are of warm
darkness. In such a passage, crammed with stores (for these central
streets are merely passages), in the very heart of a world of dolls,
lottery tickets, pastries, newspapers, umbrellas, fans and pipes, is a
Chapel. It is open to the street and it reveals within a long recess its
garish bower of candles. The throng crowds by. Dark clad, the women;
drab, the men with wide stiff hats and a clank to their high heels. They
talk of little things; eyes hold to the unconscious rhythm of the
throng. And as they pass, they shift their talk an instant into prayer;
or they make the sign of the cross; or they kneel. So Seville prays to
herself.
In the Parish church of San Gil, there is the figure of a woman. Is it
some crude artisan’s idea of a prosperous Maja? The dress is modern on
La Macarena—idol of Our Lady. And La Macarena is the most vaunted, the
most puissant goddess in Seville. At Semana Santa, in her garish dress,
she parades the town. The Majas of Seville throw themselves before her;
and sing; and pray. And as the Doll, who is both Mary and Maja, moves
through Seville, the streets are paved with the breasts of the
Sevillanas, loving their own image.
The Gardens of Alcázar are a geometric maze of tiny verdant patios. Each
stands at its own level, a gradual step lowering with the flow of water.
Each is a little bower with tiled floor, an intimate garden holding to
its charm in the great sum of gardens. The patios make a mosaic. The
design is severe; it is a heritage of the analytic Moslems. But in
Seville, the mathematic form is snared into an idyll.
Hundreds of churches in Seville. Many of them are bleak rococo monsters
and their interiors gross piles of gilt and scarlet. They are not bad
taste in Seville. Murillo is not bad taste in Seville. They are parts of
a ceremonial. Seville’s love is great enough to hold and to transform
them. So, in the compas of the Convento de Santa Paula, a noble Gothic
portal stands with a palm tree; so the rococo dome of Santa Catalina
blazes to ceramic; so the Plaza Santa Cruz becomes a faëry quarter, its
rows of ancient houses painted like the flowers and the birds that hang
from the low casements; so, even the Casa de las Dueñas, home of the
bloody Dukes of Alba, winds behind its iron gates into quaint patios and
palms and archways.
Each street has its garland of self-praise. A color of façade, a jewel
of ceramic, a tiny unsuspected court elbowed between the blank backs of
two houses, from which oak doors lead into other courts—communities of
painters, artisans, teachers of the dance. And each season has its
pretext for self-song. The Semana Santa and the Feria are the most
famous rites: in Holy Week, the spirit of Seville meets Seville’s body
in orgasmic climax. But other seasons have not less typical embraces.
The Velada de San Pedro comes in summer. There are no foreigners and the
rich townsfolk are north in the Basque country. Night follows a day’s
fever. And now the people open their doors, throw wide their canopies
and go into Seville. The servants carry great hampers of fiambres:
cold sea food, mostly, with jars of Jérez and Manzanilla. They proceed
to the popular squares, Alameda de Hiércules, Plaza de León, Plaza
Encarnación, near the Mercado where with cool night comes the stir of
odors ... greens, fruits, cheeses. They spread themselves, the good
folk: they eat and play.
La Plaza de San Juan Bautista de la Palma is not as large as it sounds.
A dozen families fill it: it is a pretty stage for the Sevillan drama.
Overhead are the crisp stars. The houses, painted cream, blue, pink,
fade in unlighted shadow. In the center is a pavilion cut into tiny
booths for churros, pasteles, bombones, patas, mariscos,
bocadillos, fiambres, vinos, cervezas, gaseosas—myriad
tidbits de media noche. Nearby sit three men and a woman. They play
the guitar, the mandolin, the fiddle; and the woman sings. She wears a
buff shawl that is caught tight over one shoulder and tighter still
under the other armpit. Rondures of breast and stomach press the lashed
silk. She is a gitana: she comes of an immodest race, but ere she goes
among the crowd for coppers she will place a black shawl over the
revealing buff one. Each of a dozen groups has its place in the Square.
They eat, drink, dance and court within their private precinct. They are
as unconcerned as if they were in their own private compas. But their
gayety is richer; this open sharing of a public place is the sharing of
a rite.
You have seen a young girl in some peasant road step endimanchée from
her house to the sun. The velvet bosom of her bodice rises. A jewel at
her neck, a ring on a finger, an eye gleam brighter than the jewel make
of her a song that runs with the Spring sun and the grass. You know that
the peasant girl loves and is loved. Love has wrought this miracle on
her flesh. And so, in Seville: the miracle of her streets is the same
alchemy. She is adance with the magic of fondness; she is gay in a
perpetual Spring of self-delight.
. . . . . .
Near the Guadalquivir and not far from the Torre de Oro, a dodecagonal
relic of the Moors who built their castle on the waterfront, there is a
baroque structure. It is the Hospital de la Caridad. In the
seventeenth century Don Miguel de Mañara was a caballero in Seville; a
knight so dissolute that legend makes him the Burlador, the true Don
Juan. This the nuns of the Caridad deny. But the day came when the Lord
miraculously spared his life from the assault of a noble seeking to
avenge the honor of his sister. Don Miguel avowed the will of God and
his sins; and caused to be built this Charity as witness, through
perpetual good works, of his atonement.
Above the chapel there is a chaste stone hall; a stair, spreading from
above like the train of a regal robe, leads to the carved door of the
Consistory. Here hangs the portrait of Don Miguel de Mañara. The face is
darkly sensual and brooding. The chin is obtrusive, the eyes have the
rigidity of a madman’s. He sits at a table, and behind him in the room
there opens a fantastic landscape. It is radiant and nubilous, a
landscape of vapors rather than of earth. And on the floor beside the
table and at Don Miguel’s feet, squats a boy and looks at him and
smiles. Pedro Salinas, the poet, has a theory about this portrait. Don
Miguel is mad, says he: the landscape, so amazingly like the “spirit
paintings” of our day, is his vision of madness. The boy is the sane
boy—the Sancho Panza—laughing at the madman.
Whatever the painter meant, whatever the historical connection of Don
Miguel with the legended Don Juan, here at least is his true
interpretation. Don Juan is the most conspicuous symbol of Seville.
Since Tirso de Molina in the seventeenth century made a play from the
old ballad and folklore sources of Don Juan, poets and playwrights of
many lands have retold his story.[8] The modern mood has freshened him
again with new psychology into a modish legend. But it is futile to
approach Don Juan save through the spirit of his town. The Don Juan of
Tirso, the first, remains the greatest. For Tirso placed his hero in the
proper setting. Tirso was no analyst, but he was a poet ... a great
dramatic poet. And his plastic presentation needs no analysis to reach
the truth.
Seville—auto-erotic, self-rapt goddess—has a god. Her streets, her
churches, her festivals bring you her lord. Don Juan is not the
full-grown lover. The true lover dwells within the spirit and body of
his woman as within a world holding heaven but earth too and hell: and
he enfeoffed to them all for that they all are the true world which he
loves. The true lover is constant; he has seen his woman so deep that he
has found infinitude within her; and how could he desire to transcend
it? What holds him to her is not pleasure: pleasure is but a moment in
this eternity of love. Anguish, anger, the black shades of
disappointment are also in his woman and he accepts them also. The true
lover is rare, rarer than genius. But Don Juan is one who loves in
woman his own senses, his own victory, and seeking ever these fleet
constants of himself moves ever on from breast to breast. The true lover
is rare because the full-grown man is rare. Don Juan is common because
infancy is common: the state of seeking only oneself, of taking life as
a flowered highway along which appetite and ease run gayly in pursuit of
their own image.
Like his mother Seville, Don Juan is restlessly pagan, hunting in
countless dramatic scenes a tribute to self-adoration. Each woman is a
mirror to himself; love of each woman is a pageant in which he enacts
his triumph. When the glance has been enjoyed, what is the mirror for?
When the pageant is past, what are its faded garlands? The real is Don
Juan! That he may be forever fresh, that his triumph may be forever
clear, undulled by custom, there must be new mirrors, new pageants—new
women.
Under Don Juan’s lyric words, there is coldness; under his exploits,
there is abstraction. His passion is but the spark, ere it has kindled
life and made life passion. And his deeds are fantasies, for only he is
real and the women whom he meets he never knows, knowing only his
desire. Therefore, his deeds like the landscape in the portrait of
Mañara are abstract.
All the elements of Don Juan are in Seville. But Seville is greater than
her son. His worship of himself in the white bodies of women is true
Seville. The constant shift of his deeds, like facets in the crystal of
desire, is true Seville. His orgiastic use of blood, of mysticisms, his
encounters with statues, necrophiles and ghosts—are Seville of the
Semana Santa. His ultimate sinking into the peace of self-absorption is
Seville. But the town is ampler, deeper. Don Juan conquers only women.
Seville conquers Spain.
This is her ultimate secret. She too—like Córdoba, Toledo, Greco,
Cervantes—is a living whole fused from the hostile elements of Spain.
But the peculiar chemic proportion of Seville makes all these worlds and
wealths the single gesture and the rite of her self-adoration.
She is the pagan goddess, ample limbed, with hair in which brood
darkness and the laugh of the sun. She leans over her Giralda. She stirs
her head and her arms in a half somnolent, half ecstasied dance, seeking
her own image in the water....
Below Al-Baicín the bodiless soul and Al-Hambra the soulless body, there
is a gypsy town. The sparse waters of the Darro run at the level of the
road. And on its other side the land mounts like a wall. Here, under the
hill are caves, the dwellings of gitanos.
Heavy women, their bare arms clinking with metal and stone ornaments,
their breasts slung in crass colors, call out for gain. The eyes are
shallow and sly; the mouth that smiles is like the straining of an
unsmiling substance; the oily hair throws off the glance of the sun. Men
are rigid and yet slender; they lack the easy harshness of the women.
Their bodies have melancholy and fatigue; as if an endless joust of
appetite and song had worn them.
The cave becomes, inside, an ample room, narrow, cool, long. Walls are
white plaster. Floors are fine-beaten clay. Chairs, tables, lamps, make
this modern ease fantastic against the crude stone mouth of a cave
within a hill. Men take tambours and sing; women dance.
It is a cave of storms. The blasts of many roads, the seas and forests
of untempered passions shriek in this music. Tambour, castanet, foot
stamp, hand-clap, raise the world in a maelstrom. And the Spanish
cadence gleams like a strip of sun upon the barbarous clouds.
The gitano music is impure, and heavy. It has crude curves and broken
surfaces. Its timbre is inexact, its form aimless. “Time” is the best of
it as if this race had its true ritual in the beat of feet upon the
endless highway. Time becomes a hurrying crescendo that splits, turns
back, gallops against itself so that it never really moves. The women
have an easy grace upon the easy floor. Full bodies swing and swerve in
a sensuous complacence. They step to the singing men. And the song of
the men swirls like a colored smoke about their hair, about the eyes of
the women.
Foot-beat under song ribs it, volumes it, controls its wild delight:
holds the gitanos together: is their soul. But this softness and
spirit of the music is within; it speaks soothing to the gitanos,
making their faces good. The outside of the music is coarse and motley.
We ... all the world ... know but the wrong side of the weave.
Andalusia is the youngest part of Spain. Its land came last from the
receding waters; its Christian culture came last from the receding
Islam. Its tongue is the youngest of the many forms of Spanish.
Galician, Valencian, Catalan, were sister languages of the Castilian:
like the dominant form, they sprang from the medieval Latin and for long
were rivals. Andalusian stems, not from the mother tongue, but from the
Castilian. It is of a later generation. Immigrants from the north gave
birth to the fluid, fresh speech which is still heard from Almería to
Cádiz. For in the days when writers like Rojas were consecrating
Castilian prose, much of Andalusia still spoke Arabic.
There is a reason therefore for the vigor of this land. The cells that
make the newborn body are old as the world. Youth inheres in the fresh
fusing. In new environment and combination, they are renewed. So
Andalusia, ancient of parts, has this organic youth. In this birth, the
great factor is Castile. Castile came down with its fanatic will to make
Spain one—to make Spain a theodicy in Christ. Castile turned Moor and
Jew into the sea: and replenished the fields with farmers from the
north. Coming down to make this youngest Spain, Castile caught the
rejuvenation.
The body of Andalusia is bright with morning. The ancient capitals
reflect this dawn. But the small town is its best image. Villages in
Andalusia are gems of white and orange on the green breast of the
huerta. Men and women live in a mirage of which their houses are the
crystal setting. They seem to know that any day their Saint (or Our
Lady) will lift them into heaven. (These villages would fit well into
heaven.) They live—and their stone world lives—in an expectant mood.
Life becomes a symbol and a pageant. Passion is the breath of a prayer;
blood is the paint of a picture. The pueblo entire is platform for the
Dance.
. . . . . .
Far worlds bespeak us, before the dancer herself. The music plays; and
in the distance, the click of castanets. These castanets are gypsy; they
came to Spain from regions of the Black Sea. The dancer walks quietly
forward, playing an obbligato with her castanets, not to the music (she
has not been married to the music), but to the march of her feet, to the
swing of her hips. She wears a yellow silk mantón: a mantón de Manilla
that went from China to the Philippines and thence to Spain to become
the Andalusian shawl. The bailarina bows and listens to the music. In
her hair, like the crest of a mythic bird, stands a peina of tortoise
shell. Most Andalusian—this arrogant Gothic comb. She hears a
cadence—Andalusian too—whose strain is of the Jews and Arabs. Her body
is still; the torso faintly turns and the arms wind upward to her head.
There is no mistaking this rigorous control. She has answered Semitic
song with a gesture of Castile!
Her dance begins as this response, almost this opposition to the music.
Sinew of the north confronts the fluid south. Two dominant forms embrace
in warfare: a music, limned like prayer, rhythmed like heartbeat, and
this fierce coldness on a woman’s body, which is the Word of Castile.
The dancer is a column, articulate of spirit: a live plasticity: with
the moods of eye and waving hand flung like a largess to our sense.
There is a pause. The two dominants of the dance (the north and the
south) fall momently apart and reveal a third. It is the personality of
the dancer herself. She is woman: very woman. She is large, almost
heavy. Her arms are full rounded; her head is poised; her bare shoulders
are a magnificent molding of firm flesh. From the waist, the skirt
thrusts almost at right angles. It is a cascade of gold down to the
ankles; and as the dancer whirls it flares out wide, revealing the gray
stockinged legs which are a minor almost girlish note within the
sumptuous dress. Her feet stamp; the skirt flows; the torso, lashed in
purple, stands heroically still, its silence an articulation not alone
of the tempest within but of the will to subdue it. The arms float
languidly to the head. The castanets click their dry commentary.
Purring, shrilling, silent, they are a gloss subtle as Talmud page, as
Arabesque, upon this whirl of sculpted fire which is the dance of Spain.
The castanet came, probably, with the gypsy from the ruined culture of
Byzance. It was known to the Greeks and Romans. In the hands of the
gitana, it is—as perhaps it was in the Dionysian rites—a heightened
bloodbeat to the music: simple, single dimensioned, metronomic. Here it
is an instrument subtle as a voice. It is a running, rhyming prose. Like
the arabesque—a decoration evolved from the written language—it
retains an intellectual power. The line and music of the castanets are
apart from the dance. While the arms flow like birds wheeling, while the
body becomes a throat of song, here is analysis forever present.
The action in the dance is drama. The bailarina moves in a tiny square.
She draws intensity from subtle signals of torso, shoulder, limb, hand:
this intensity she transposes to an undulous swing carrying her now far
about the platform. She is horizontal and relaxed. She turns her naked
shoulders forward; the castanets click almost silently beside her hips
that roll in a slow ruminance. She faces about; her caress comes full
and forward. The music tears with its down cadence against this mellow
mother. Plaint and passion weave a subtle net that draws her forward
(the castanets are still). Suddenly, she is held in rigor. The fertile
mother of the south is sacrificed to the harsh north. The gorgeous
breast, the hips, the arms like songs of love, are tortured in a vise of
passionate control. She is the drama of women giving up their sons to
the Reconquest, giving the man of their marriage bed to battle with the
Moor.... But the mood does not last. Castanets trip lightly. She dances
fluidly, widely; her heels strike high; her golden skirt rises and frees
her legs. The castanets are become as the chatter of children. From the
new relaxation of delight wells more energy, and comes again the tragic
transformation. With the emotion, rises the ruthless will locking at
last this pleasaunce in its hostile grip. The music is now a battle.
Song, body, castanets fuse in the war of passion and will, of nature and
of reason breaking on each other. And above this symphony, the dancer’s
face is silence.
So do all the motions of this drama converge into a plastic
movelessness. The dance itself is not drama; is less kin to the dances
of Europe than to the sculpture of Egypt. One thinks of the stones of
the Nile in whose unsubtle substance live flame and intricate vision.
One thinks of the Maya reliefs of Yucatan whose myriad planes twine to
harmonious flatness.
. . . . . .
Since the dance is a true classic art, the need of personal genius to
express it is reduced. The true genius here is the tradition. Spain
dances. Unlike the other dances of modern Europe, the dance of Andalusia
is a norm: and the true dancer is a normal woman.
The good bailarina conforms strictly to the type of the good andaluza.
She is handsomely stout, with broad pelvis, full-developed breast,
strong, regular features. She lacks sensual erethism. She is indeed the
matron, rather than the prostitute. And the matron is fitted for the
classic dance, precisely because of its normality, because it has been
purged of the romantic, the brilliant, the superficially sensual—the
accidental. A “romantic” Andalusian dance is nonsense.[9]
The classic bailarina is, then, a quiet woman. Her body is splendid
without obvious incitements. Her costume is lovely in form and color,
but it is too heavy and too complete to be sexually arousing. She
conforms to an ideal of plastic motion in which all the romantic
elements of the dance—lust, madness, nakedness—are sublimated into
social symbols: love, prayer, vision, sacrifice. And all her movements
(again unlike the dances of Europe) merge into an almost static mold
that has the ultimate finality of sculpture.
The true Andalusian dance is solitary; and except in the special case of
the cuadro flamenco it is an æsthetic error for more than a single
dancer to occupy the stage. The true Andalusian dancer (with the same
exception) is a woman. The true Andalusian audience is a man. The
relation, however, is not sexual, save perhaps in a remote Freudian
sense: it is matriarchal. And this too is normal, since psychologically,
Spain is matriarchal. The dancer is mother, teacher, priestess. She
holds the stage alone, and smiles on the men who sit beyond the music.
This smile is a physical caress, reticent, unconsciously restrained like
the caress of a mother. It must win her men, else her ultimate word as
teacher and as priestess of Spain’s mystery will go for naught. The men,
with the brutal candor of the Spaniard (and of the child) will turn from
her and make a clamor of talk to drown her out. But the true andaluza
wins her men; and gives her message which is the message of all Spain
and Spain herself: this quickened fusion of many hostile worlds into a
single Beauty.
. . . . . .
The cuadro flamenco is a brilliant dilution of the Andalusian dance.
Flamenco means Flemish, and is applied strictly to Andalusia. The use
harks back to the age of Carlos I and Felipe II when Flanders was part
of the Theodicy of Spain and the best will of Castile and the best blood
of the south went into the wars with the Low Countries. It became
Andalusia’s pride to share in this mad religious struggle.[10]
The cuadro is a “team” of perhaps two men guitarists, four women and
one man dancer. The men are clad in trousers that rise like cylinders to
a high black band above the waist. They wear white shirts and the coat
(which is often absent) is cut in the front like our evening dress, and
tailless. The women are soberly gowned. The shawl is brown or black.
Only the slippers give a flare of red. The hat is the stiff sombrero
ancho of the farmer whose more romantic, more flexible offshoot is our
“cowboy Stetson.” The group sit in a half circle. The guitars thrum
almost absently. The men and women seem to be examining one another. A
woman rises and goes to the center of the group. She dances. The other
women and the single man from their chairs with clapping of hand and
foot-beat mark a skeletal obbligato.
To the more pigmented music and more volumnear forms of the other
Andalusian dances, this dance bears the relation of a steel-engraving to
an oil painting. It is a climax of the bare Castilian motif: the
warrior will of the Reconquest which lived on, after the Moor had
disappeared from Spain, in the Inquisition, in the Holy War against the
Dutch, in the rapt butcheries of Mexico and Peru—in this flamenco. The
dance makes saccade angles against the lush weave of the music. It is
too graphic, too linear: it remains in the realm of draughtsmanship and
drama.
The dancer does not move from her central square. Feet beat intricate
tattoos, the body is poised stiffly, the head turns, arms swerve up and
down in a sort of wistful memory of ease, while the fingers click an
osseous pointillation that is a shadow of the castanets. The lyrical
release of the arms is held to the verge of vanishment. The guitars make
a music like dry wind in autumn trees. The maternal verdure of the
women, fixed in their chairs, is sacrificed wholly to the stripped will
of the dance. One thinks of fields turned into the desert of Castile.
The fertile and the pagan are almost gone. And the protagonist of the
flamenco is a man.
He comes from his chair only after each woman has danced and has
retired. He is short, neither stout nor slender; there is no gallantry
about him. His face and his dark body are stamped with seriousness. He
has watched the women through their arid figures with eyes like the eyes
of a master. He is no lover: he is the priest of a rite. Now, he stands
moveless within the weave of the music. Sudden, his feet break in a
shattering tattoo from which his body rises in subtle suppressed waves.
Even the lyric holiday of the arms is absent from his dance. They are
still at his side, or they are held in fixity near the shoulder. The
body is vised; the head does not swerve. Feet and legs make a dance,
perpendicular and juiceless: bereft of rhetoric and gesture, they
bespeak the hoof-beat of armies, the vigils of the desert, the absolute
symbol of the Arab Darwish. All of Spain that is not this male message
of Castile has been crushed out....
. . . . . .
The distinction of flamenco is only of degree. The Andalusian dance is
impersonal and abstract. All the movements of the soul and body of an
intricate race are essenced here into a ruthless form. The appolonian is
channeled; the dionysian is mastered; the dramatic is cleansed of
episode; the lyrical is exploited as a mere carrier of life to
sculptured unity.
The Andalusian dance is the converse of the art of the Russian ballet in
which the pure materials of plastic movement are exteriorized and
denatured into the melodramatic. In the Russian dance, the means is the
art; the end is the personal, the pathetic. The Russian dance is
analytic, episodic, realistic. The Spanish dance is organic and
essential. It is the one great classic dance surviving in our modern
world.
a. The Atom
b. The Way of the Atom
From the Mediterranean to the Atlantic, the north boundary of Spain is
mountain. To the east it is called the Pyrenees: a wall of snowy rock
that falls, save for a space above the fertile fields of Catalonia, into
the desert of Aragon and Navarre. Westward, the wall is lower and has
another name: Cantábrico. It too is wild, but the more moderate moisture
covers it with pine and its fall southward is but a step to the high
meseta of León and Castile. Within this barrier that like a jagged knife
cuts Spain from Europe lived the Christian Remnant before the Arabs. And
from two fastnesses of this wall—where the Arabs never gained a
foothold—went forth at once the Reconquista which for eight hundred
years, thrusting, expanding, retreating, made war upon the Moslem and at
last after innumerable shifts of fortune drove him out. The western
point of the Reconquest’s birth lies in the perpendicular rocks of the
Asturias. This is the cradle of the Kingdom of León, which, thrusting
from the Cantábrico, became Castile. To the east, the nucleus of the
long “push” south was in the bleakest and highest Pyrenees of Spain: the
Ribagorza and Sobrarbe whose hard squat Iberian chieftains were the
first kings of Aragon. Not till the last decades of the fifteenth
century, at the end of the long battle, did the two Christian forces
join and become Spain. During seven hundred years, they had waged war
against Mohammed; they had grown great in Spain; they had flung their
power northward across the mountains, eastward across the sea to Italy
and Greece: but they had lived—Castile and Aragon—separate from each
other and for the most part hostile.
Within the Pyrenees—the stratified chaos north of Huesca and
Barbastro—the atom of Aragon lives above the splendor it has given
forth. Here, if anywhere, is the aboriginal Spaniard—unchanged as his
mountains. The Iberians who were pushed north from the desert or south
from Acquitaine into the Sobrarbe and the Ribagorza found themselves in
a sort of Continental crow’s-nest, high above invasion. The Romans did
not tarry here, nor the Visigoths. The Arabs were beaten back, south of
Jaca, and had to veer to the east to enter France. For countless ages,
these primeval men beside the river Aragon lived uninvaded, until their
atomic energy grew to be explosive and they became invaders.
But they are still the atom. They live in the crannies of mountains, in
the steep stretches of valleys torn by torrents. The sky above them is
shut in by rock. Northward the Pyrenees stand ordered and columned upon
France. But in their southward march they become a delirium of broken
walls. They symbolize the cacophony of Spain. The little villages perch
on a precipitous bench of mountain or are lost within the immense sweep
of a moor. They too are stone. The houses are gathered fragments of the
heights. Often there is no wooden door. Windows are tiny apertures of
space. The houses huddle so close that they appear to be a single rock,
whence rise the blind walls of the church—fortress rather than
church—like an irregular edge. Another such obtrusion seems the entire
village upon the high face of the mountains. If it is low in a valley,
still the monotone is there. For the moor is gray and mournful like a
stone; and the furze of summer makes it but faintly fluid as if from the
blaze of the sun. The rushing river sends splinters of gray fume over
the teeth of its rapids. Stone....
From these stone towns come the creatures who have built them. Small
weazened men they are, with heads like nuts and eyes like iron. They
have no sensuality and no art. Indeed, they too are fragments of the
fragmented mountains: atoms of rock who have detached themselves and
learned to walk about. They are silent, impenetrable. They have the
mineral virtues. They are strong, they are steadfast, they are
inexpugnably honest, they are brave. To dislodge them from the inertia
of their world is as hard as to lodge an idea in their heads. And as
they walk about, their slow and clumsy gait perfects the sense that they
are walking stones: that this human venture is a masquerade: that
presently they will cast their uncouth manhood and go back into the
eternal mountain sleep.
They wear black leathern breeches slashed at the side and ending well
above the knee. In the split at the side and below, the drawers bulge
white or gray. The calf is enclosed in heavy leggings of white wool,
doubly lined with buttons. The feet are wrapped in a cloth and shod in a
sole of wood or wool that is thonged with leather, and bound about the
ankle. About the waist is a huge sash—faja—coming down thick on the
buttocks and serving as the pocket. The jacket is short. The aboriginal
Aragonese wears no hat: a handkerchief slanted athwart his head absorbs
the sweat of his labor and leaves the cropped crown free. When he wears
a hat, it is an adaptation either of the boina of the Basque or a
lumpish variant of the pie-shaped hat of Castile. His invention has not
gone so high as his head.
The effect of the costume is farce. It is elaborate, intricate, unmanly.
The bulging drawers, the sash so fat about the buttocks exaggerate the
shortness of the body. The man is lean, hard, small. And he drapes
himself in clothes that are centrifugal and fussy. The sense of
masquerade persists. This man is a stone—an atom of the horizons. With
his assumption of a soul, his body has felt cold and he has elaborated
this uncongenial mess of wool and leather. His head, however, is still
too mineral to need a hat.
His woman is not stone: rather she is the clayish soil that with the
stone makes up the slopes and moorlands. She is the earth—dark brown
and gray—from which the stone is hardened. She is the earth, the
earth-bed of her man. She is silent: when she is young, she has the
savage and swift mellowness of the mountain Springtime. Her dress is
black. On feast days, the black becomes vermilion, deep blue, green. The
thick, rough wool, dyed to one color, falls from below the armpits where
it is caught in a tight bodice: falls widely, unheeding the waist, into
a flaring skirt. It is a dress that has the dignity of the primeval
Springs: its mood is fecund; it is not human enough to be aware of
waist, of hips, of breast. Unluxuriant, unvaried, it has the bloom of
wholeness. The women of these mountains are the loam on the wastes.
Here is a better model for Adam and Eve, than the pretty Italians, the
mystic lovely Byzantines: this rudimentary pair, the man decking his
stone simplicity in a clownish gape of drawers and breeches, and the
woman, earth-mooded, earth-whole, chording her man and bearing him
along.
They have left paradise, and now the world works on them. Christianity
has come. They build monasteries—mountain fortresses for God. Strife
has come: invasion or threat of invasion. And for these, chieftains,
nobles have sprung up who are no longer content to shelter in the little
villages of stone. Walled towns make their appearance: such towns as
Jaca, pure Iberian name and indeed but a medieval structure for the
Iberian blood. Jaca looks up the valley of the Aragon toward France. It
sees the primordial hamlets clustered in the moors and on the heights.
But Jaca itself crowds sophistications within its turreted walls. The
walls themselves are the same gray granite and the streets, narrow and
high, are stylizations of the passes northward. But Jaca belongs to
history. These houses know of treaties and rebellions. Life has moved
into Sobrarbe: now Sobrarbe moves. The mountain citadel is the sign of
its moving. It will go south to the valley of the Ebro. It will flow
with the Ebro and be part of Spain. It will challenge the world....
The valley of the Ebro—Nile of Spain and historic artery of all her
bloods—is still below. The way from Jaca down is short but steep. The
wall of the Pyrenees, in a few miles, drops seven thousand feet: but
drops, not as northward upon smiling France—drops to desolation. Aragon
which began as mountain wall becomes a yellow waste: and save for the
narrow corridor of the Ebro, all Aragon is this. It is the bottom of
what was once a sea. The rocks of the Pyrenees, of Catalonia, of
Valencia and Castile are the rim of the dry bowl through which the Ebro
trickles. The soil is still subaqueous: marl, clay, gypsum, alkalis make
its sterile surface. Salt lies free on it. Even the heather and grass of
the upland moors do not live here.
But the Aragonese lives here: and here is the second stage of his
progression. Sere towns lie in the sere waste. The houses are clay.
There are wooden doors, but windows of glass are still rare. The peasant
chooses the desert bottom for his house. South and north rise the walls
of the Sierras, naked as flint: and the winds sweep through his narrow
passage, bringing the rigor of the rocks into the air he breathes.
This low tier of the world of Aragon has no clement weather. It has no
spring and no autumn. Winter is a rigid siege: summer is fire. When the
weather shifts between the seasons, the winds make a runway of the
valleys. Frost, flame, storm are the angry cycle. And its dwellers are
worthy of their weather. They are not degenerate like the inbred natives
of Las Hurdes between Extremadura and León. Nor are they spiced and
strained with eastern bloods, like the cave-dwellers of Murcia and
Almería. They are simple human stock extraordinarily coarsened.
Dull-eyed, crude-lipped, slow-moving, slow-talking: they lack the
mineral sheerness of the mountain men. The air that they breathe is not
snow-swept. Their flesh has no crystal tarn for neighbor. They live in a
roadway of unleashed elements. Dust, clay, salt, drug their air and clog
their pores. But there is something else. There is the roadway, and the
mobile spirit of the roadway. Movement and action infuse this brutish
people.
The men of the mountain and the desert store up great energy within
their core: the outer world harries, arouses: the virgin force grows
aggressive. East of Aragon are two rich and fluid lands: the Christian
Principality of Catalonia, the Moorish Kingdom of Valencia. Frankish
Barcelona rivals Marseilles and Venice, in ships. (Ramón Lull, Spain’s
most original schoolman, lived here: he wrote in Latin, Catalan and
Arabic, books on love and wisdom. Chasdai ben Crescas, Spain’s most
original Jewish thinker, lived here: he founded a new Prophetic lineage
which three centuries later grew to be Spinoza.) Farther down the coast
are the lush huertas of Valencia: a great port facing south as Barcelona
east, a seat of Moorish culture.
As Rome once the subtle nations to her east, tough Aragon comes to
control these affluent worlds. When in 1149 Ramón Berenguer IV of
Barcelona wedded the daughter of Ramiro II of Aragon, the mountainous
kingdom did not lose its sway. Catalonia became part of Aragon: and the
currents of its open life the veins of the uncouth inland realm. A
century later, Jaime I of Aragon with Catalonian help conquered
Valencia. Valencia had been in Christian hands before: El Cid had won it
rather by treachery than arms. But after the great freebooter’s death,
the Moors came back. Now that Aragon sits down within its valleys,
Valencia is Christian forever. It loses even its name of tributary
kingdom. It becomes simply part of Aragon. Catalan blood has helped win
it—for Aragon. Now Catalan, Valencian, and Castilian, led by the Great
Captain of Córdoba, win Sicily and Naples—in the name of Aragon again.
Aragon of the desert and the mountains has in its stone-like men an
energy which informed the mental mobility of the Catalan, the sensuous
fervor of the Valencian: prevailed upon them, dominioned them and made
them tools at last to its own activity in Europe, to its ultimate
partnership with Castile in Spain. Within itself, Aragon has little
else. It lacked the elements for the creating of an indigenous culture.
Aragon the core remained prehistoric: its history is its power to
accumulate forces about it.
But this elemental virtue through its very neutralness served to fuse
the diverse natures upon which Aragon worked. The initial urgency was
Aragon: and Aragon was the name of the amalgam which resulted. When at
the close of the fifteenth century the nation of Spain was born, its eye
toward Europe was Aragon. Isabel of Castile was the spirit and the
religious motor of that birth. Ferdinand of Aragon, with his infusion of
Frankish-Catalan and Jewish bloods, was the diplomat and politician who
turned the mystical Castilian dream into a European fact. Aragon took
its place in that polyphony of elemental fusions which was Spain. But
with this difference. That fusion, in Castile, Galicia, Portugal,
Andalusia, had a preponderance of parts native to these provinces. In
Aragon the fusion was of outer elements. Aragon was the port of Spain:
it had become a power in Europe. But its own integral rôle in the
cultural life of the Aragonese nation was that of a catalyst in a
solution.
. . . . . .
Although historic Aragon is dead, in the capital city, Zaragoza, the
process is revealed. Zaragoza is Spanish: yet its parts speak all of the
east, of the south, and of the north. The streets have a dark fluidity
which suggests Naples. They are not rigid and bright like the streets of
Castile. Their warmth is freeflowing like a blood under the swarthy
stones. They brood, they rot: they are not transfixed in contemplation
of their unity, nor in rapt service of their own high fate. They are not
noble, not inspired streets like the most sordid in Avila or Burgos.
Italy’s ageing paganism darklies them: and the Moor’s mobility which
lifts Valencia into a dance gives them an elusive charm, a play of light
and shadow which Naples lacks.
Upon the dusty shores of the Ebro where the trees bend in a gray burden
to the tawny waters, Spain speaks through Zaragoza. Here stand two
monsters, the cathedrals. Nuestra Señora del Pilar is a long pile, drear
as a Jesuit college, dull as a bull-ring: and from its mournful mass
rise suddenly, inappositely, the huge azulejo domes, their
hypertrophic rhetoric gleaming of Andalusia and Morocco. Within is a
church in the style of Louis XVI of France! The other cathedral is more
mellow, but not less hybrid. La Seo is Gothic. There is a Romanesque
window: the façade is rich in Moorish bricks and tiles. The columns are
Gothic; the walls are exuberant tissues of plateresque. Yet the whole is
harmonious, is impressive. It is Aragon. There is here something at once
pagan in mind and Christian in mood. The cathedral indeed is like the
Latin Sea: a converted heathen whose thought holds to the limits of
youth and from the Christian infinite has taken a boundless and vague
melancholy. This crossing of sun and shadow is Aragon. Light is here—in
eclipse: storm—sun-tinged. The immutable atomism of the Aragonese
shivers in contradiction. The sun of Italy breaks into motes, dancing on
a grave: the Spanish burden of death becomes the irrational refrain of a
gay song.
In La Seo, Aragon works its transformation upon elements chiefly of
France and the east. In the jota, the basic material is Spanish. What
is known as the first jota is a birth of the defense of Zaragoza in 1808
against the forces of Napoleon. It swears to the Virgen del Pilar that
the men and women of Zaragoza never will be French. Jota songs and
variants of its dance are legion throughout Spain, and its musical
elements hark back to Arab days. The formation of the jota is the
couplet; the music is an adaptation, in three-quarter time, of
Andalusian cante hondo. The classic southern song becomes romantic.
Its abstract lines, devoted to the elemental passions, become vehicles
for commentary verse in which religion, politics, wit and satire are
barbarously mingled. The tragic music of Spain is lightened, aerated and
then, by the ultimate twist of Aragon, it is once more sicklied with a
haunting gloom. But the gloom is pagan, not Christian. It is empiric.
Its fluidity is of the east, but its will is a release come from the
north.
The dance of the jota is a diluting, a quickening, above all a
flattening of the sheer pure figures of the southern dance. The body
loses all relationship with sculpture. It is given up to that easy
dynamism whose language is the leap, the skip, the pirouette. It has
abandoned the dynamism of the soul whose infinite motions conform into
an almost motionless figure. The classic dance of Spain, drenched with a
facile nervousness from Europe—this is the jota of Aragon.
. . . . . .
So the prehistoric atom begets this baroque romanticism of Aragon. There
is nobility here. These are the people who fought the establishment of
the Inquisition: the heroic defenders of their land against Roman,
Visigoth, Arab, Frenchman. But the toughness of Aragon is vulnerable, if
not to its invaders, to its own conquests. Valencia and Barcelona become
conduits through which a motley of elements pour in. The alliance with
Castile brings another bewilderment of forces. The primitive stuff of
Aragon has no organic response for these racy cultures. They overwhelm
it: they form an amalgam about the rigid core. And the harmony of
Aragon is indeed one of flashing dissonances: brilliant, appealing,
evanescent. It is a surface fusion, and its charm is flight from an
impenetrable center.
Triumphant Aragon disappears in the living peoples it absorbs, in the
great neighbor with which it is allied. As cultural beings, its vassals
all survive it. Its own primal core survives it....
These men of the Sobrarbe and the desert have been too ruthlessly
hardened by their world to receive the juices of spirit. Like a steel
mirror, they reflected for an hour the suns of Italy, of Araby and
Spain. This is the greatness of Aragon—a swift reflection in which
affluent worlds were fused in the reflector and took on the form of the
reflector’s contour. But the worlds swung past, life shifted: the light
no longer fell on Aragon. Its surface becomes dull once more, and
unillumined.
a. The Castle of the Cid
b. The Stones of Wisdom
c. The Water Bridge
d. The Miracle of El Greco
e. The Tomb
The valley of the Ebro is a vein of green, deep within wastes of earth
and tiers of mountain. Northward the Solana, sudden as a fort, stands
before the snow-clad Pyrenees. Southward the sierras of Aragon and
Castile are walls of flint upon a yellow floor. Slender and sinuous, the
Ebro leads up to the head of Spain.
This way came the Romans, met by the nut-hard Aragonese and the Basques
of Navarre. Here the Visigoths were fought and were absorbed. When the
Arabs faced north of Andalusia, they veered to the east: and the Ebro
was their path back to Spain’s center. Commerce and nurture went this
way: but were the servants of War. Signs of War still mark the valley
for its own. Encased in desert and rock, the towns rise above the
plethoric vineyards like parts of the stone world. War has brought the
desert ranges down and has made cities of them. The Valley, pressing up
through Aragon, through Navarre to Castile, is clad in armor of rock
towns. So weighted, it could not keep pace with the world. It was great
when mountains were barriers and when a river was a highway. It has
remained as the past sealed it. North of Zaragoza no great city lies
within the valley. It has become an agricultural, above all a
viticultural center. Haro, Logroño, are towns of the wine-growers. But
even when new houses are put up, they are made of the eternal rock—the
warlike rock of the past.
At Miranda the invader leaves the Ebro, and stands at the climax of
Castile. The south is a breakage of treeless moor. In the crevices of
heights, small towns hide, and church steeples are indistinguishable
from the rock. But the earth mellows. Angles are replaced by curves.
Wheatfields plaid the rolling slopes of hills. There are dingles,
copses. This is the head of Old Castile—the part of the hard land where
men lived best, and where they first united against the Moslem to call
themselves Castilians. This is Burgos: La cabeza de Castilla.
. . . . . .
Bristling castles, castle-like sierras exist everywhere in Spain. Why is
just this portion called Castile? Look at Burgos, nestling in the bosom
of a hill and green with springtime. The río Arlanzón has leaped from
the savage Pico de Lara. But when it reaches Burgos, it is gentled: it
is an idling pleasant little river. And the folk of Burgos have built
along its banks an esplanade, a park of meticulous shrubs and gravel
walks, a street of clubs and cafés where music, at nightfall, answers
the tripping water and the wheatfields bending in breeze.
The town goes up from a seven-sided Plaza. It is stone, but mellow. Its
streets are criss-crossed with surprising squares, irregular in shape
and level. Old houses bearing shields seem to stoop as if time-softened
in the mounting swirl. The cathedral stands waist-high among roofs. Its
grandiloquent splendor is town-bound. Only the loftiest windows catch
the free heaven for the nave. The doors of the cathedral open on many
levels. Far up in the transept is a golden window topping a stair of
carven oak: and this window is a door upon a street. Burgos begins to
terrace up less gently. Houses, streets, arched galleries over steps are
all one stone: but everywhere the gray walls crack: lilacs bloom in
every crevice. Windows are open: flowers wave in them. Black-gowned
women make shadows. In the gutters which are clean, play children, warm
like their mothers, lyric like the lilacs.... A running bloom in Burgos
mounts with the streets until they match the steeples of the churches,
until the harsh high churches are engulfed. A green hill dappled with
cherry is the height of Burgos. And here is a castle.
It is a famous Castle. It belonged to the first Counts of Castile, ere
Castile was a kingdom. It witnessed the marriage of Ruy Díaz de Vivar,
el Cid, to Ximena: and in its shadow stood the Cid’s solar, his
“city dwelling.” It dominates the town. But it is ruin. It appears to
have no importance. A paltry mass of rock it is, weeds in its cracks,
gashes in its sides, and its top agape with earth and shrubs. It stands
alone upon the top of the hill and crumbles into dust. Behind it are
shanties: asses, dogs, hens possess the theater of its glory. The walls
that once enclosed the city go down irrelevant now from the castle ruin:
their cubos and bastions droop into a row of modern tenements, one spot
of which is a tavern—a noisy mouth—filled with the red coats and red
calls of soldiers.
What is this castle in the life of Burgos? A disused memory. It stands
above a town whose fluent smile is turned away from it. Surely, it is no
symbol?
Nor does the Cid’s spirit, more than that of Burgos, appear to chime
with the ruin. The Cid lived in the eleventh century. Shortly after his
death, he was immortalized by the poet of El Cantar de Mío Cid,
probably a Christian menestral, residing in the Moor country of
Medinaceli. The romancero painted the Cid afresh. He was a mobile
scoundrel. His king, Alfonso of León, distrusted him and ordered him
forth from his seigneurial seat Vivar. Ruy Díaz was penniless: but he
possessed a trunk whose iron-thonged flanks you can still admire in the
chapel of Corpus Christi of the cathedral. He filled this coffer with
rock and sand, and sealed it. By his friend, Martín Antolínez, he caused
it to be carried to Raquel and Vidas, rich Jews of Burgos. “These are my
treasures,” he told the wily Jews. “I am exiled. Guard my wealth for me
as security and loan me six hundred marks. The contents of my coffer are
worth vastly more; but I am a simple knight and I need cash to pay my
people at Vivar, and to lodge my wife with the monks of Cardeña. Six
hundred modest marks.”
The Cid crosses into the Moor country of Aragon and begins his raid on
the Moslem. Like the Jew, the Moslem is free game—a wilder sort of
boar. God sent him into the world for Catholics to prey on. The Cid is
out for spoils. It does not occur to him to convert a Moor: he strips
him. But he is canny: he never quite strips him bare. He wants him for a
friend as he turns his back to go on other raids. At last, the Cid
captures Valencia, by guile rather than arms. He is a rich man now! He
has sent gifts to mollify Alfonso, and to Ximena and to the monks of
Cardeña. (Of course, he does not repay the Jews.) But he imports a
bishop to Valencia del Cid, one completely fitted out with all the
latest golden implements of worship—quite as a millionaire of
Pittsburgh imports a chef from Paris. Listen to mío Cid reflecting on
his luck.
All these winnings the Campeador made his.
“Thanks be to God who of the world is master!
“Before I was poor, today I am rich;
“I have money and lands, I have gold and wide possessions,
“And for sons-in-law I have the Counts of Carrión,
“All battles do I win, it is the will of the Lord.
“Muslim and Christian hold me in great fear.
“Yonder in Morocco where are the Muslim mosques,
“They might open to my attack. Who knows? perhaps they have
“The dread that I may come: but I am not so minded.
“I’ll not go seek the Moor; here in Valencia I’ll stay.
“And let them bring me their wealth: with the help of the Lord
“They’ll keep on paying me—or whomever I delegate.”
This is the constant temper of the first hero of Castile whom the
changing mood of Spain was to turn at the last into a fanatical
crusader. He has conquered another Moorish town:
“Hearken to me, Albar Fánez, and all my valiant knights!
“With this castle we have won great spoil;
“Many Moors have died; few do I see still living.
“As to survivors, both the men and the women, there’s no one who will buy them
“If we cut off their heads. Nary a bit would we gain.
“Let’s save them for ourselves; now that we are the masters.
“We’ll lodge in their houses; we’ll make them wait on us.”[11]
The Cid reminds us vividly how far his Spain was yet from the ultimate,
classic Spanish character, four hundred years after the battle had begun
between the Moor and Christian. In the Cid are all the elements of that
character—in their raw, chemically unfused state. But in the sense that
Isabel was Castilian, and that the Castle is Castilian, he is not
Castilian and he is not Spanish. His spirit is pagan and is European. No
such light-hearted, almost comic bellicosity exists among the Semites to
whom warfare was a solemn, religious matter. The Cid is the
knight-errant, the medieval sportsman, stripped, however, of the mystic
and amorous sentiment which Christianity later put upon the freebooters
of the northern forests. The Cid is cheerful and fluid as any pagan: but
he has a trait which no true Teuton knight possessed: his extreme
concern with money. The Cid fights like a Goth: but he figures like a
Phœnician. And, like an Arab, he keeps moving.
From time to time, the Cid is minded that he is fighting for the Lord,
that Christ is his captain, and that the Moor (aside passing alliances
and friendships) is his spiritual foe. He gets this notion from the
Moor himself: and it is well to realize how weakly the Christian has
adapted it after four centuries of fighting. Meantime, the Arab who had
crossed the Strait in a flame of religious passion, cooled and lost his
sectarian, desert ardor. Spain was become a simmering chaos with no
clear elements. Christian and Moslem were often in alliance. The Ideas
of Cross and Crescent resided unalloyed only in monasteries. The process
of osmosis whereby the Christian was to inherit the religious fanaticism
long lost by the Moslem did not reach its climax until the Age of
Isabel.
The Cid—gay, ambulant, fluid, mercenary pragmatist of arms—lived under
the shadow of no Castle. The Castle of Burgos had as yet no spirit for
its bristling body. It was not yet Castile. But though the Castle’s body
is a ruin over Burgos, and Castile is wrecked among the modern nations,
their spirit lives. It created a hard kingdom to tower over Spain, to
dominion the world, and stratify at last the Spanish soul.
. . . . . .
What is a castle?
It is a shut place that commands by its shutness the open place about
it. A castle is builded of the stone of its world: it rises from the
stone of its world: it is the stone of its world. A castle is austere
toward the world which it defends. It is invariable, forbidding: its
strength is that of a perpetual shutting-out of all which lies outside
it. Sun beats on the castle wall: inside it is dark. Moon melts on its
bastion and bathes its county blue: it is harsh and rigid. Water and
wind make song of the green hills: the castle is silent. It is lord of
its county because it is apart from it. A castle is hot in a cold land:
a castle is cold in a hot land: a castle is high in a low land: a castle
is full in a land of dearth: a castle is dry in a land of verdure.
Within the castle walls, anarchy may flame: the walls are law enough.
The walls are spirit and sanctity enough, so that within life may be mad
and fleshly. A castle draws on the affluence of its world to save its
world: it lifts itself into a desert peak, that the low lands may
flourish: and then it sucks the land.
Castile becomes a castle. The chaos of running passion and idea hardens:
Christian Spain, weary at last of ages of dissension, steals the
discarded fervor of the Moor: becomes one passion, permanent and
crystal, to withstand all others. Upon the crest of Spain forms this
stony essence of her will. The actual struggle dies: the Moslem world
droops away toward Africa. But the spirit of the struggle becomes rock.
A castle to defend the soul of Spain; and Spain’s soul at last a castle.
The walls raised to minister to an open land grow higher, grow ever more
remote from the reason of their being. Become at last a reason unto
themselves.
See the castle now, stirred from its mooring in a fertile world! The
fertile world itself must turn into a castle! This will of service
destroys the served. This vision is so intense that it is blind. The
castle is become an unleashed monster, mobile as the Arab or the Cid. It
lives—to be a castle. And it devours the spirits and fields of men
which raised it up in order to protect them.
The castle, become Spain, moves through Europe: moves across the sea.
Its shut erectness is the measure of good. Its sunless cells are the
measure of light. Its turrets are the church. Its trampling march over
the pliant earth is music. Its dream is to make a castle of the House of
God.
The Province of Valladolid in Old Castile is fertile. The plain has the
aspect of a verdant sea swept by long tides, the hills. In Spring the
fields of wheat and barley unfurl their delicate green illimitably to
horizons where white clouds stand like enchanted caravels. In the soft
grass and the turf, velvety with rains, the flowers sparkle like myriad
splinters of sky. And on this vastness, under a solid Dome, towns stand
as sudden islands.
Such a town is Medina del Campo—City of the Field: a huddle of clay
huts about a bastioned castle where Isabel the Catholic loved to live
and where at last she died. The plains are at low ebb against the walls
of Medina. They recede with their lush rhythms from this ruined
arrogance which once housed Glory. Medina is like a penniless hidalgo.
The town’s pride—the Castle—is a molder within the walls. And the town
itself is a lay of sordid houses on mud streets, a conglomerate life of
stamping peasants and braying mules and women occult like the hidden
fires of their kitchens.
West of Medina del Campo lies the Province of Salamanca. It is the
southern spur of the kingdom of León which Castile absorbed in the
eleventh century, and it is contiguous with Portugal. It is less fertile
than Valladolid. That sea-like plain roughens and grows abrupt. The
Castilian borrico is less frequent; and likewise the crude carro
which it draws with the driver bouncing on its rump. Here is a land of
oxen. Slow and inevitable as the day, they swing and steam beneath their
wooden yokes, drawing the stone plow through the rocky loam or the cart
with axleless wheels on the harsh ruts of a road. The cool young
grain-shoot trills less in this land. It is a world of flocks. Sheep
fleck the hills; goats cast their jagged shapes like living stones
within the stony valleys. It is a world of ranches—of dehesas. Bulls,
reared for the bull-ring—toros bravos—browse in great sweeps of
meadow.
The ranch house is of stone. It is large and bleak; if the dehesa breeds
good bulls, it is rich. Toreros come to study their victims, for when
the bull is not “game” the espada is helpless. There are many bedrooms
for guests: the dining room is a long hall in mahogany or oak with
crystal candelabras, lofty leather chairs, sideboard glittering with
colored glasses, a bull’s-head over the door and portraits of great
toreros on the walls. But the house is cold; rustic and crude it is,
like the harsh earth of León. The livable room and the living room is
the kitchen. The owner, in zamarra and calzón, smokes his rank pipe
by a vast open fire. (There are few stoves in this land.) A medieval
spit, great enough for the whole side of a beef, stands in the
blue-black chimney. And through the Castilian winter, when the wind is
unbroken from the Cantábrico to the Sierra Morena, the ranch house is a
cavern, but the kitchen is warm.
The hidalgo has changed little from his ancestors who fought the Moor at
Zamora. With him is his son, who incites the savagery of the bulls as a
gardener incites the color of rare flowers; and his son’s wife, a mellow
creature, quiet as the low flame of encina that heats the garbanzo
jar upon the hearth; and her child, also, taking the breast of a nurse.
The other servants sit, too, before the fire in that equality which
alone a feudal sense of caste makes possible.
Salamanca is a land of little cities, of tight, insulate worlds with a
thousand or five hundred souls. A crude land and a people whose spirit
the land encases. A crustaceous people.... A tiny river is nearby, else
there could be no town. The houses ray out upon the turf like regimented
snails. Windows are spots in a chalky shell. The door, within a
triangular cut of the house (as if the reclusion made it less
penetrable) is massive oak impounded with iron or with copper. It is
divided horizontally, so that the housewife can open the upper half and
talk and trade, and yet be locked within her tiny castle.
She is locked ever within herself. Her garb is black. When she goes
forth to market in the village square (here bulls are fought on
holy-days), there is a black shawl over her black hair and very close to
her eyes. The face is beautiful. The skin, color of parchment, ages
silken soft. The jaw is round and unassertive. The nose is straight, the
mouth is thin and large. Passion, here, and right are not separate
claimants to her soul. All this peasant woman’s will and all her duty
unison from girlhood to the grave. Service to God and service to her
man, the sacraments of communion and of love, the tasks of household and
of motherhood ... are one and have one word in her plain mind. They are
life itself: like God a unity which miracle divides into three persons.
And she is like her hearthfire, this woman of Old Castile: fecund and
ensconced. She is the light of her shut home. She has jealous distrust
of sun and of the open air. They are her rivals and she bars them out
with her tiny windows and her divided door.
Her man moves slow through a strange outward world; for he is wholly
embraced by the close of his home and his woman. He wears knee-breeches
of hide that are tight as a skin and box his rump into a rigid square.
He wears a coat of raw sheepskin with a gap for the head and gaps for
the arms. For shoes, he has a bundle of rags cased in sandal-soles and
thonged. His hat is either the black skull boina of the Basque or the
true sombrero of Castile—pie-shaped, velvety black, with the center
pyramiding up to a peak. You see him best when he goes astride his ass.
A crude plaid muffler (tapabocas) stops his mouth. The woolen manta
regally folds from his shoulders to the flanks of his brute. The burro
trots sharp and perpendicular. The man is movelessly erect, untinged by
the mount’s rhythm. Even a peasant, even on an ass, he seems a
caballero. His head is sternly forward; his hands do not stir; he is
silent. His world is a coarse world. Winter is a blast and summer is a
blast; the short spring covers his field with mud more than with
flowers. This his encasement. And within, a balance like a tree’s of sun
and earth and weather. He wages an intricate but instinctive warfare
within the Hand of God. For God makes the sun a sear or a dim mockery;
and God makes foes of the men of the world. Unto the bloody Moor of
yesterday there has succeeded the bleeding Noble. Yet he has won of this
complexity a peace simple and deep. He lives in a profound seclusion.
Love and work are his hearthfire. And from their secret place he can
look out, his eyes old in understanding, his eyes bright with the irony
of distance.
. . . . . .
Within this land of unkempt fields studded with encina, land of wild
bulls, of towns shut from the sun and the wind, there glows a jewel that
has warmed the world. It is the city of Salamanca. It lies in treeless
mountains. Northward Zamora bristles warlike, westward Portugal turns an
unfriendly back: and all about, Castile. Sierra de Gata, Peña de
Francia, Sierra de Béjar, Sierra de Gredos ... from such wild quarries
has come the mellow stone to build a scholar city: the city of the
Wisdom and the Love of God within the crude dichotomy of Spain.
Salamanca is its University. Here in the first splendor of the
Reconquista, Christian kings foregathered wise men of Israel and Islam
and joined to them the aspirant scholars in Christ. The school was
founded by a king of León and chartered by a saint, San Fernando of
Castile. For two centuries, learning here was universalistic. Here, in
spirit, Ibn Gabírol the Jew became Avicebron, and his book Makor Hayim
the Latin Fons Vitæ which nourished Saint Thomas of Aquinas. Here the
teaching of Averroës the Moslem was absorbed for Rome. The Mussulman
Avempace and Tofaíl—Platonists—here went down before the Stagyrite
phalanx which included Ibn Ezra, Ben Maimun and Gersonides. Here was
prepared food that later fed Albertus Magnus; here were married east and
west as a thousand years before in Alexandria. For the body of Catholic
Europe was bone of Greek logic, flesh of Jewish faith and eye of Arab
science.
Here, ages later, when the medieval unity of Rome drooped and split,
when Protestant heresy was annexed by the new State wills of the north,
the Church of Rome was saved. From Salamanca came the theocratic polity
of the Catholic kings which fused the modern will of the State to the
old idea of the Church. From Salamanca spread the religious energy which
won all South America and part of North America to Roman Doctrine.[12]
For here above all, were nurtured the Spanish mystics who made possible
that last great conversion: Cristobal Colón, Pedro de Alcántara, Juan de
Avila, Luis de León, Luis de Granada, Juan de la Cruz, Teresa de Jesús,
Iñigo de Loyola—that various athletic group who by book or preachment,
by crusade or compass revived Rome. In Salamanca, at least in spirit,
the Medieval Synthesis was reborn: and in spirit has subsisted to our
day.
The earlier, more liberal Salamanca which had so immediate a share in
the real splendor of that Synthesis is not this town still glowing by
the River Tormes. The Salamanca of today is that of Isabel and
Ferdinand, of the sixteenth century—of the Jesuits and the fanatical
revivers.
Unlike most of the great cities of Castile, it rises gently from the
meseta. And heroisms of the mind, rather than of blood, speak in the
smolder of its ancient body. The River Tormes is urbane, almost
European. It passes waving willows and lush fruit trees; washes the
shaded soto where the monks met to platonize with Luis de León upon the
Names of Christ. A Roman bridge leads low to the city. Here once stood
a granite bull by means of which the wily beggar knocked wisdom into the
head of Lazarillo. And the streets climb up through the mud. Walls
crumble with the hillside under the town. An ancient church stands on
the bank surrounded by the mire; and houses, foul with age, their carved
seals moldered, limp like proud beggars up the sharp incline. The
Cathedral is a soft gold crest in the sun: at its feet are waves of
convents, consistories, churches, schools. The central streets are paved
with cobble stones. The houses are low and the glass of their windows is
out of place, so new it gleams within the soft senility of walls. Dogs,
children, refuse clutter up the streets. Everywhere one feels the
elemental base—a hill—on which this young culture of Christian Spain
has builded. In the churches, five centuries are confused. The Old
Cathedral is Romanesque; with its chaste columns and its nave a
petrified forest, it stands beside the scintillance of the plateresque
New Cathedral. Nearby is a Dominican convent in which a queer mariner
named Columbus found refuge and support in a scheme rejected by most of
the Crowns of Europe. The seventeenth century baroque of the
Churrigueras flaunts its high monstrosities beneath ornate ceilings.
Much of the gold arrogance of this convent is a result of that mad
scheme of Columbus. But the man himself is closer to the streets; for
here one still encounters at least in spirit the pícaro, the monk
half-saint, half-satyr, the immortal Celestina. A Jesuit convent rears
its chill harsh walls in the town’s heart: a symbol of the ruthless
might of the Company of Jesus, of its enormous logic. And everywhere,
the alleys limping up, limping down, between the homes of the Church.
This Salamanca, fixed in the eras of Isabel, Carlos, Felipe II, has
aged; has not changed. The dirty streets are the same; the low blind
precincts of the poor (Cervantes lived here once) and the dominant
recurrent periods of church and tower. Life’s anarchy is here controlled
by learning. Every crooked street is righted by a convent; every lurch
of alley is stopped by a square. And the whole town is mastered by the
Plaza Mayor—a square as correct as a schoolman’s syllogism. Its sides
are unvariant four-storied walls; it is colonnaded equally and equally
façaded; it is the noble, proper heart of a town which has argued unity
in Christ through seven rank chaotic hundred years....
The buildings of the university are the least of it. In the Library you
may find manuscripts by Alfonso the Wise, glosses by thirteenth century
Jews, Arabic illuminations of Gazali. You may sit in the same chill
lecture halls where once great masters taught humanities and where but
yesterday Miguel de Unamuno “explained” Greek after the universal
measure. But Salamanca is an ancient seer whose word has gone forth to
the world, while the body shriveled and the blood grew bleak.
More of the university is the tropical gold work of the Dominican
altars; is the stupendous grace of the two Cathedrals; is the immense
glower of the Jesuit on the hill. More, the sedulous symmetry of the
Plaza within the coil of gutters. More, the glow of the yellow mellow
stone within the desert fastness of Castile.
The æsthetic sense of Spain is social, instinctive, unconscious. Her
master works of art rise like isolate acts from the trammels of her
life. Her cities are among them: and none more perfect than the ancient
towns bristling upon rocks within the Castilian desert.
Choose your day well for visiting these communal works of Spain.
Salamanca needs sun: its warm gold stones speak graciously within an
azure sky. The Escorial is best in rain: its chill stones shrink from
the blue-gold of the Spanish day, but under the drift of breaking clouds
it glows like fossil fire. Segovia sings most clearly in a wind. Great
clouds like armies plunge from the Sierras and invest the Castle. The
sun makes sudden sallies on the Cathedral. Then gloom once more on the
town, like repentance after violence.
Castile, here, is a chaos of mountain and of desert. The Guadarrama is
steep over the lofty town. The desert leaps and dips in a cacophony of
planes. Elsewhere in Spain, it is Spring. But April in Segovia is
stormy. The mountains are still clad in winter. In the pockets of the
surrounding valley almond trees and cherry are in bloom, making little
perfumed furls of mist against the barren earth. The sky is neither
spring nor winter. A great wind rages. Momently, heaven changes. Titanic
mounds of cloud are flung like eiderdown from peak to peak: the sun is a
swift flash between dark purples. Rain in melted diamonds glances across
the valley in the oblique shaft of the sun: is gone: a copse of poplar
sings suddenly green and yellow under gray. The volumnear motions of the
hills seem to be waves of a seismic sea, swept by the wind and roaring
with its might.
. . . . . .
Segovia fills the height of a long rock shaped like a ship within this
stormy earth. Below one side pours the Eresma, with its melted snows.
The valley rises on the other beam, purple and bronze soil, blue sage,
rock ... rises to a village that lies flat like a dory on the breast of
a wave ... rises again to the sky where the clouds drive wildly.
Segovia’s ancient walls are bastioned, pierced with knotty towers and
gates, and topped with the typical round cubos which Rome gave to Spain.
The walls bind the precipitous rock which holds a park and the Alcázar,
the usual pile of tessellated towers that gave Castile its name.
This is one end of the town. The rock goes higher toward the center.
Houses are a clutter, unanimous like an army in the moment ere it comes
forth to attack. A romanesque church, a feudal tower rise from the stony
mob like leaders. And in the town’s heart, stands the Cathedral. Its
interior is intricate and cold. But in the façade of the city, it is
perfect. It is the climax of Segovia rising to meet it. To the right
Alcázar is alone, facing the waste of the meseta; alone above the river
and the rock like a lord of the city. But now, the streets mount, an
aspiration makes them one: their goal is the Cathedral. Its base is lost
in the streets. Rise free and clear only the two thick towers and the
crest of the gigantic nave. The Cathedral is a ship breasting the sea of
the town: even as the town is a ship, breasting the hills.
Down from the Cathedral in the direction away from Alcázar, once more
the city falls. No regular descent. There is no metric rhythm in
Segovia, save for the mind that stands outside of it. An Olympian eye
sees the vast bowl of the Guadarrama: and on the tide of turf and rock,
the city riding like a frigate: and in the town, this regular rise to
the Cathedral. But each of these general units is a chaos. The plateau
is an intricate context of heights, villages, farms and valley-spots
suddenly sweet with orchards. The wave on which Segovia rides is itself
broken into rising, falling crests. To make a hundred yards of
horizontal progress, the voyager must go up, go down: slipping through
alleys that swerve, climbing steps that lift him into hidden plazas
where an old church spreads its romanesque cloisters like wings, or a
palace with faceted walls stands aloof from a plebeian throng of houses.
So, laboriously the voyager makes his way to the other end of town.
There is a Square. The Aqueduct of Rome, immemorial and chaste, rises
from the Spanish market. Plaza del Azoquejo: it is a name that recalls
the soukhs and bazaars of Islam. Within its sordid taverns, fish-shops,
stands Rome.
Segovia’s chaos disappears. Segovia becomes a drama rigorously styled.
As the town bristles under the wind and the mountains, so has passion
run riot in this town. Here lived Juan Bravo, leader of the Communeros
who arose through Spain, in tragic presentiment of disaster, to oppose
the Austrian Karl who became Carlos the Great. Here lived the stubborn
burghers who shut their gates against the young Queen Isabel. Segovia is
crude, coarse, anarchic. But Spain’s unconscious art has made it
perfect, weaving the elements of its cross-grained will into a living
balance.
This is the work of the Roman Water Bridge. Two thousand years ago, the
Empire built it to carry from Fuenfría to a reservoir not far from La
Granja. The distance was great, so the Aqueduct was long. No aspirance,
here, no thinking about symbols. The pragmatic, confident Roman thought
not of miracle: the passionate Segovian, building his chaos beneath
these Roman arches, looked for miracle elsewhere. And the miracle is
born of the unwitting marriage of these wills....
Roman aqueduct and Spanish town offset each other and create, once more,
the complex unity of Spain. The Square is a boil of braying burros,
muddy motor-buses, lottery vendors, beggars, drinkers. Above it and
across it spans the double tier of arches. They are vast granite blocks,
pieced without clamp or mortar into a soaring lacework. Hundreds of feet
above, swings the upper rim. The town clambers after it on steps,
becoming at the top level a hidden maze of low houses. The Bridge,
dwarfed here, disappears into the wall of a convent. Its massive granite
shelters a patio with a pump, grapevines, geese—and a young girl
stringing red clothes on the branch of an encina. Upon the other height
from the Plaza del Azoquejo, the Bridge grows gradually less steep as
the town rises slowly. Rome’s cool stones run ever closer to the Spanish
streets, singing against sordid wineshops, almost touching a schoolhouse
dismal as death, skirting a square where boys play at pelota. Rome is
now a single-tiered, a stolid marching music. It turns at right angles
and runs along a road lined with indigent shops. A bodega opens its
dark fragrance as it passes: pigskins filled lifesize with wine sprawl
like bloated corpses in the shadow of this march of Rome. The town is
behind: the sedulous arched mass moves like a resistless army into the
ground that rises toward La Granja....
The Aqueduct of Rome is Segovia’s youngest life. Its stones are immense,
but its grace makes wings for them. Its tiers and terraces are an
ordered song. Horatian is the balance of these pragmatic blocks. The
mountains of Castile are old. The barren soil of Castile, stripped of
its loam, is old. Segovia is old. It is a spilling of energy, a thing of
chaos. Segovia comes to dark and tragic life within this Measure, sure
and at ease, of the cool will of Rome.
South of the Guadarrama lies New Castile. The world flattens to the vast
plain of La Mancha. Towns stand like tiny toys on a table. It is a calm
before storm: vineyards and wheatfields stop against the wildest pass of
Spain, Despeñaperros of the Sierra Morena. Here Don Quixote like his
idol Amadís went into penance and prayer; here the Arabs passed from
Andalusia to the high Plateau; here at Las Navas de Toloso they were
pushed back and down five centuries later. Within a land of fierce
extremities, none is more telling than this sudden chaos rocking to the
sky between two mellow plains. In the upper one, La Mancha, the eye is
lost between the infinites of earth and heaven: it ceases to feed logic
to the mind and the soul starves in a waste of vague realities or, like
Don Quixote’s, leaps to the realm of visions.
North of La Mancha, another climax. The Tagus flows lazily west,
carrying silt and loam from gradual hills serrated with the olive. The
land is wide-browed. Its lack of trees gives it essential peace, as if
it were in contemplation of its own fortunate ease among the embattled
mountains. Now, swinging westward with the river, the land catches a
spiritual fever. Fields grow rockier, hills abrupt. Rondure sharpens to
angle; horizons shut. Something like a geological convulsion takes the
body of New Castile and turns it into a steep, a tumultuous storm. The
land becomes a maelstrom, swirling into a single rock—Toledo. The Tagus
maddens too. Bending south, it cuts into a canyon, one of whose walls is
Toledo and the other a rocky world to rim it. The river circles; deep in
a notch of stone it becomes a purpling torrent. It cuts a precipice, it
leaps a rapid, it reverses northward seeking again the long plains that
lounge westward to rocky Portugal and to the sea.
Toledo is cold upon its sudden height. Across the gorge that makes it
almost an island, olive groves, symmetrical as in the ancient prints,
draw verdant stripes in the red face of the hills. The country houses
and the chapels mark the swift slopes like little steadfastnesses
nailing their chaos. But in this geologic gyre and husbandry, Toledo
stands unmoving.
To the north where the plains lead to Toledo and where alone there is no
fending water, are walls. So an unbroken rigor belts the high town. Here
is the ancient Puerta de Visagra, unchanged since the Arabs put it up
twelve centuries ago upon a Roman stronghold dizzily maintained by the
Visigoths Athanagild and Leovgild to capital all the land. Gigantic
stones not polished by time. Three separate tiers of bastion and of
turret. And within the Gate’s shadow like a womb of rock, delicate Arab
arches. Behind, the street leads with a promise of gentle curves into
the harbored city. Children gambol in these monstrous walls; their calls
are flowers suddenly alight in a bleak winter. Women sit before painted
doorways and send voices like velvet strands into the silent granite of
Toledo. But life cannot prevail against this protecting death. Nearby is
a new Visagra (a mere five hundred years). Arms of Carlos V and a statue
of San Antonio furbish its forbiddance. Through its round arch, you see
two pointed towers with their Mudéjar tiles aflash in the sun. But the
tiles are not verdant and skyey like the tiles of Granada and Seville.
They are colorless, and they are cold.
Toledo is a coil of streets, like the Tagus stormy and like the rocks
precipitous. Men and women live in Toledo. But they are void within the
intricate death of convent walls and church, and convent and convent
again. Rather than men and women of the sort who come together in the
ache of flesh, and of their ease bear fruitage, there seem to live here
creatures of prayer and dogma. Children indeed are scarce in these
streets that are the bodies of a Creed and a Rite. When there is open,
there is waste. When there is color, there is irony.
San Juan de los Reyes ... church, college, convent ... stands on the
westward buttress of the Toledan mountain. The rock cuts to the river.
The ancient bridge of San Martín loops high above the rapids, thrusting
its road away into a waste of dust. The Gate of San Martín stands in a
slanting square; and it is naked for the walls are gone. So desert comes
into Toledo. Within the city Gate, here is the face of mountain. The
streets stand on it, despite their ages, insecure and shallow. Desert is
not hostile to them, so they have let it in. Was it not there before
them? Let it come back to serve as the refrain of their bleak rigor—of
their denials. And the Church which the Catholic Kings projected and
then forgot—San Juan of the Kings—shrills with its painted statues in
this desert: Gothic, Arabic, and baroque against a hardier silence.
Farther on is the Judería—what is left of this Borough of Jews who
ruled Toledo when the Arabs came, and who throve thereafter in Toledo
for seven hundred years. The rigid mood goes on. The Castle of the Jews
has disappeared: but where it stood, beside the Paseo of a synagogue,
falls the escarpment, dark and sheer, into the rushing river. On the
farther side, the mountain is a wall. Water foams through the notch.
There is a tower standing on a thrust of rock just above the waves.
Halfway between the river and the Jewish homes, this ancient prison has
survived and fronts with its bars the desolate interstice of stone.
Churches and chapels stud the variant heights. And all about, the rise
and fall of streets, shut in and clamorously silent, cold in the neutral
tint of the Sierra.
You must cross the river. The Puente de Alcántara is a bridge whose
subtle dichotomy of arch and gate marks in plastic terms the way from
Moslem Musa to Christian Philip. Best strike down from the Cathedral to
the ferry. These are the oldest and the poorest streets. And here are
children—naked children, and naked patches of rock and turf within the
filth of alleys. Dark, over-ripe, mute. These streets on the
mountainside are as the hive of some subterraneous bee whose honey is
bitter-black. The people are blind. They behold neither the river below
that flows to the sea, nor the Cathedral above that touches God. They
live compressed within the surging forces of Toledo. They live in a
limbo of balance. Their obscurity is poignant, within so aspirant a
world. The ferry is a round and ancient bark with a carved prow and two
unwieldy oars to pilot it, for better or for worse, athwart the current.
And above the precipice of the other side, is the rocky chaos where El
Greco sat to paint his city....
Rigor, rigor inflexibly holds. Toledo’s streets are stone veins
imbedded. The Alcázar is a higher rock above the rocky huddle of the
town: its rectangular loom is a peak of the mountain, polished by the
sun. At the summit bristles the Cathedral. Towers, turrets, crested
pediments, flying buttresses and chapel roofs are pressed aloft by the
Toledan wave, and rise from it like foam. All of the sharp volutions of
the streets, even the sheer Alcázar, converge and aspire into this jet
of granite. And over the Cathedral is the sky—God’s empty answer to
this blast of icy aspiration.
. . . . . .
This is one Theme of Toledo: the word of traditional Castile and of its
castle towns. The mountain is refuge of friend, menace to foe. The face
of the Christian warrior is set. Moor and Jew are driven out. And all
the Toledan world becomes a symbol of the mood that drove them. The soul
of the Spaniard becomes a castled mountain; masters its chaos by turning
it to stone. And what will not ply to immobility, it shuts without the
drawbridge.... One theme of Toledo. But a typical Castilian town—no
more—is not Toledo. Castile surpasses itself. Spain grows universal.
Color, flame, live too in the shut town. They are everywhere. And in
their protean form, they are one. Halfway up from the Puerta Visagra
stands Cristo de la Luz in a rough field of rocks. In 1085, the
conquering Castilians passed through the Arabs’ gate. Their titular head
was Alfonso VI. But Ruy Díaz de Vivar, the Cid, rode first. The streets
then were not different from now. Crude stone paved the steep, and the
gray houses hid their eyes about the inner verdure of their courts. The
Cid came to a little mosque. His horse fell to his knees and the
Campeador could not avail to budge him. At last, he dismounted from the
rapt steed and strode into the mosque. He beat away the gold-encrusted
Mihrab and disclosed a Visigothic chapel. In the altar place, before the
Christ, was a brass lamp; and it was burning even as it had burned three
and a half centuries before, when Musa walled it up to make his
mosque.[13]
The mosque stands first in the unkempt garden. Its entrance is
double-arched. Through the three columns topped by a lyric arabesque,
lies the round depth of the altar. Upon the walls are paintings of
ascetic Christians, lean with the Byzantine projection of their color
into the life of their forms. These paintings were recent when the Arab
came to Toledo in 711. They are recent today—in the Toledo of El Greco.
Cristo de la Luz is delicate. Its counterpoint of German, Byzantine and
Arab themes makes it a song wavering flute-like from the stiff music of
the Castilian town. On the other slope, in the Judería that leaned so
fatefully over the gorge of the Tagus, are other dissident jewels. Two
synagogues have survived. One of them consecrated as a church under the
tutelage of Santa María la Blanca, later became the asylum for penitent
prostitutes, later a barrack for cavalry and a stable. The other was
made over by the Catholic Kings to that most unjewish of cults—the
death (Tránsito) of the Virgin Mother. Builded by the Jews, the houses
speak across the stormy ages of the Jews, their builders. The sultry
masquerades to which they have submitted fade away. This is Toledo
indeed. The Toledo of Abraham Ibn Ezra, descendant of Gabírol and
forefather of Spinoza; of the munificent and tragic Samuel, treasurer to
Spain’s most cruel king; of Ibn Daud, Talmudist, and of his great foe,
Jehudah Ha Levi.
At the time of Paul, there were already Jews in Spain. Like the
Phœnicians and the Greeks before them, they became protagonists of
Spanish urban culture. The Visigoths who inherited the land upon the
Roman death, were an agricultural folk. Their will to control this
peninsula of cities failed, because they lacked the spirit of the city.
At the end, when disaster neared they oppressed the Jews—masters of
urbanity—for economic reasons. It was natural, that the oppressed
should welcome the Arabs: and that the Moslem captains, aware of the
possible ally in a hostile land, should overlook the chief hate of their
Prophet by welcoming the Jews. Jews were placed in control of Seville,
Málaga, Córdoba, Granada, Toledo. Under the Córdoban Caliphate, they
throve and Spain became their land. Jewish Wisdom crossed the sea from
Babylon and founded the first Academies of Europe.
During four centuries, the Jew was a master in Spain. But it is doubtful
if his number ever equaled half a million. He was a leaven and an enzyme
in the land. He was artisan, tradesman. No guild of the cities failed to
count him in. He was physician and teacher. He became scientist and
philosopher. The majority of Jews lived, of course, in the humble
circumstance of a farmer or a weaver. But a few grew great. Jews became
diplomats and statesmen for Moslem and for Christian princes. As the
modern economy gradually evolved, they became ministers of finance; they
waxed wealthy. And with their power they builded in the towns of Spain
centers of liberal, luxuriant culture whose like was not then in
Europe. They were masters of many tongues, masters of many
illuminations. When Arab Córdoba had rotted and the courts of Italy were
yet swarming knots of bandits, the Jews of Spain dwelt in a world which
embraced Asia, Africa, Europe. Indeed, they were among the eyes of
Portugal and Spain, yearning across the seas. They were cartographers;
they were promoters of trade. And from Gabírol who was born in Málaga in
1021 to Hasdai ben Crescas who died in Barcelona in 1410—a period of
time nearly as great as that which separates the Discovery of America
from our day—they traced an incessant thought in Spain.
The modern State sounded once again a Jewish doom. With the birth of its
fanatical will came persecution. The Jews’ internationalism was a
subtle, psychologic poison. The servants of royal unity became aware of
an enemy in their household—of an enemy in their blood. In 1391,
Spain—the liberal theater of ideas whose like had not been known since
Alexandria (for here argued men who believed, not in abstract gods, but
in flaming Prophets and in Incarnations)—lurched to one modern way of
progress. Massacre rose from Seville to Toledo. A century later, the
Jews were ordered to give up either their faith or their home. They had
been in Spain for centuries; their urban genius had helped build Spain’s
cities. They had kindled a fire to warm the world and to illumine
heaven. They were artisans in the body and in the mind of their land.
They were ordered to die. For to leave the home of Spain or the home of
Bible and Talmud was no mere uprooting. Probably not much more than a
hundred thousand left. The moiety stayed and were lost in the great
Catholic amalgam. Their organizations for action and for thought were
reft from them. They had no halls or synagogues. They had no language.
Worst of all, they had to abandon—those who stayed—the immemorial
forms of feeling which were Jewish and in which they were beginning to
mold (witness Crescas and Leon Hebreo) a new Enlightenment, a new
Naturalistic religion! An end ... not the first, not the last ... came
to Jewish Wisdom. And while Europe whose spirit they had nourished rose
in Renascence to the bloody dawn of our “liberal” age, the Jews sank
down into the very night of mumbled ritual and superstition from which
they had upraised their oppressors.
As they pass from the stern city or are lost within its rigorous stones,
the Jews give to it a color and a theme without which it would not be
Toledo. By their acceptance of death, they have won life unceasing: and
here in Toledo which once gave them death, they have bestowed a spirit
which has not died.
The house of Samuel Levy stands, gracious and simple, in its garden. (El
Greco lived here.) The arched columns of Santa Maria are unhurt. The
Tránsito still breathes, darkly, like a rose over-ripe. It is a
rectangular building, higher than wide. Its walls are white under the
cedar ceiling. Around runs a frieze, margined in Hebrew texts. Above are
arches in relief, rejas that suggest the Arab, and a higher line from
the Old Testament. But the base wall of the synagogue is its full glory.
It is a façade wholly of Hebrew. (Two Castilian seals thrust in to mar
it have no more effect than a spot on a sublime illumined page.) The
letters of stone make a warm intricate music. The æsthetic inspiration
is Arab. But how these Jews have deepened and dimensioned it! The
arabesque is a delicate, wavering line; without denseness, without
integration. It is like a silhouette, against a desert sky; it is like
the trail of life on desert sands. The Hebrew letters are slower, less
emphatic, more volumnear. They are far mellower in curves; they are far
deeper. They build, in this façade of a Toledan synagogue, a poem that
is history. They march on the stone surface of a wall, resolute,
self-effacing: symbols of a world whose spirit seems by miracle to
survive its body.
Color and aspirant light, throughout Toledo. How has it survived? Not
alone the Cristo de la Luz: not alone the Judería. Athwart the
Cathedral, in a little Square, is a building—the
Ayuntamiento—bright, warm, almost fancifully gay with towers. (El
Greco builded it.) There are Churches like San Vicente, Santo Tomé, in
which a wall grows suddenly glorious in color and sings above the
dolorous shadows. (Here, El Greco painted.) Even the Cathedral turns
traitor to its stones! The cloisters are a perfumed close. The choir has
rows of wood-carved stalls that shout their sensual delight against the
heavy columns. And in the Sacristía hangs an altar piece—an
Expolio—that is a sunny jewel. A genius—from across the sea—has
infused this conventional matter with prophetic spirit: space moves,
spirit grows manifest in flesh. A red-robed Christ becomes a ritual
flame, transfiguring the human shapes about him.
And this, in Catholic Toledo, the stone grim city! Because there came a
man to dwell here in whom dwelt the old Prophecies, and who resolved
them into shapes which Catholic Toledo could not deny. Color against
stone, fire against rigor—this had been the Argument in Toledo, until
Isabel and Cisneros put a stop to it, by blotting out the one in favor
of the other. A simple resolution. Moor and Jew go forth. Dogma and
Conventual remain. The Cardinals of Toledo—Popes of Spain—espouse the
iron purpose of Castile. And the long blank walls of the streets with
their hidden monks and nuns—these seem the victors of Toledo.
Comes, now, in the last quarter of the sixteenth century a young Cretan
painter to make his home in the town. His name is Doménico Theotocópuli.
He has studied in Italy with Tintoretto. He is a wanderer. He learns
that there is much gold to earn in Spain, and little talent to earn it.
A handy place in which to make a fortune. He comes and stays: and
although the fortune proves shy, Toledo becomes immortal.
The question of the actual blood which flowed in El Greco’s veins is of
no consequence. Child of the Mediterranean Völkerchaos, there must
have been echoes of many voices in his soul. Maurice Barrès[14] plays
with the unestablished notion that he was a Jew. The certainty is the
prophetic spirit of his work; the certainty is the vision of the East
with which he dowered Spain. He came to Toledo, disciple of a realist in
Florence; and he produced an art as opposed to the paganism of his
master as it is close to Isaiah.
The spirit of Israel and Byzantium does not die in Spain, because a
Catholic has come to make it flesh of the body. The Jew may go into his
alien ghettos; the Arab may rot in the Levant. Here is a man to blaze
their truth upon the walls of churches—and with a color so wise, that
the walls crumble ere his word grows dim.
The work of El Greco was misunderstood by his own age and scouted by the
criticism that came after. The wonder is, that it was tolerated—the
invasion in it of a world condemned. Manuel Cossío[15] has explained
this plausibly by the personal prestige of the man. His contemporaries,
failing to grasp his apocalyptic and “inaccurate” art, were moved by the
deep power of the man and by his own self-confidence. His work is the
crowning plastic of the West. More and more, as the walls of his stiff
world molder, El Greco is seen to express not alone Toledo, not Spain
alone, but the Christian Synthesis of Europe at its highest luminous
pitch.
His æsthetic is one of incarnation. He possesses an idea, dynamic,
mystical. He makes his figures immediate forms of that idea. Not
symbols, not representations—not even emanations in the separatistic
sense of the Brahmins. The spirit informs these heads and torsos, much
as the spirit informs the Substance of Spinoza. This is an æsthetic to
be found in Egyptian sculpture. The archaic Greeks knew it and the
classic Greeks, growing analytical, abandoned it. It has come closest to
the West in the word of the Hebrews. Isaiah, Hosea, Job, the Song of
Songs, the Psalms, and the Alexandrian Pseudepigraphia rose, all, from
a like æsthetic law. Byzantium rewon it wanly in its painting. El
Greco’s idiom is close to the Byzantine. In his essence, the fierce
passion of its flaming, he is far closer to the Hebrews. This does not
mean that Doménico Theotocópuli had Jewish blood. It proves rather that
Christianity had Jewish blood, so that the Toledan ambiance of Semitic
rhythm and Semitic thought could call forth for Rome a vision very close
to the old vision of the Prophets.
El Greco must be regarded as a partaker, crucially, in the Toledan
scene. Thus only can the mystical culmination of his work be understood.
In Toledo, two antithetic Themes: a will of rigor and a flame of the
East. What mystery shall fuse them? In El Greco, two dominant traits:
volumnear color, movemented form. The mystery is at hand! Color creates
plastic mass; mass, formed through configuration into bodies, creates a
flow. But the flow is not of fluid; it is of fire. Fire flows and is
steadfast; an essential object and an immutable circumambiance mold its
motions to immobility. So now the flowing of El Greco’s forms. Massing
colors, thrusting shapes, parabolas of expression round spherically into
a balance with no outlet. Ecstasy lies within itself. Life aspires—to
life. Here is the vision of a Mystery which like flame flows forth from
God, is held to God and is a form, in its commotion, of God’s immutable,
immobile essence. Here is a Mystery not transcendental, not
neo-platonic. But Dante and Spinoza would have hailed it. And Toledo’s
stones could be transfigured to express it, without loss of their own
nature.
Thus did the essence of El Greco’s art resolve the two themes of his
city. Once again, the God of the East upon the body of the West creates
a masterpiece....
The ultimate Word of Castile....
A gray rectangle on the bleak Sierras. Behind, upon three sides, the
immense mountains. Below, the rock and clay that join Madrid to Avila.
Four stories of gray granite. A delicately arched slate mansard roof.
Upon each corner a tower and three more tiers of windows tapering
through the slender roof to a ball and a cross. Within, sixteen patios,
making the design of a Gridiron: symbol of the gridiron upon which San
Lorenzo, patron of the Escorial, was roasted. This Gridiron is cold. A
mighty central patio, its walls of invariant granite broken by the
church façade which rises within the building like a prayer wrung from
the rigor of that stony life. Doric columns, gigantic and harsh figures
of the Hebrew kings standing upon the pediment. Two towers at the
corners, and within, a Dome lifting above the building like a Tomb and
making death the dominant of this invulnerable music.
The Escorial stands on a stone platform whose inelastic might is
emphasized by the severe cropped hedges. The green of the box, the green
of window-sills and shutters chimes faintly against the silence. To the
south, under the granite terrace, is a little pond. Its square surface
mirrors only granite: that of the monastery walls or of the Guadarrama.
Within also silence. A monastery with its cloisters and chapter halls, a
church, a college, a Palace ... in square stone rigor. Walls are thick
like fortress walls; rooms are vaults; floors are bare. Below ground is
an octagonal chamber of vermilion marble piled to the peaked ceiling
with coffins of kings. And beyond, like the streets of some lugubrious
town, are the vaults of the Infantas—a procession of marble mansions,
body-large. This city of the dead holds the Escorial.
Eastward slopes a little park, and south from the artificial pool there
is a lawn. It ends in a granite front flush with the grass. This brief
pleasaunce is like a spot of verdure within desolation. Against it rises
the Escorial, framed by the scoriant Sierras, based and topped by
death—the profoundly stylized and essential form of the bleak Coronal
of Castile.
It is the masterwork of Philip II. And Philip is a masterwork of Spain.
The Spanish will to forge a unity from the warring elements of its life
won no darker victory than his. He was the great grandson of the Most
Catholic Kings. He was the true heir of their impossible purpose. His
Empire spanned the world. Never has there been its like. Portugal,
Holland, Franche-Comté, Austria, the Americas were bulwarks of his
House. He strove to make of this delirious chaos a unitary Word to
bespeak Christ. He gave his country’s blood and his life. He took at
their full value the accoutered lists of his imperial titles. He was the
Catholic King; let his land express God. He was Monarch; let him know
his children. His personal correspondence immensely regarded every city,
every hamlet, every estate in his realms. Each curate of each parish was
invited by the King to send detailed reports of the persons of his
flock. But the curate might err in perspective. Each report was tested
and criticized by another. Philip lived in the scaffolding of a Dream.
The Dream was good, for it was to create and rule a unitary world. But
the scaffolding was warfare, intrigue, laborious documentation. For
peace, he went to war: for light, he plowed the dark. He spent his years
and his people: and at the end he felt death.
This was the hour when the Escorial shaped in his dark mind. The pretext
was the desire of his father Carlos I, that the kings of Spain possess a
worthy tomb; and was the victory over the French on San Lorenzo’s day.
But the work that grew was strangely different from the plan, and far
profounder.
The will to unity must come to this? Philip had dreamed of a monument of
Life: a Spain that was to be the symphony of continents and seas, of a
hundred peoples and a hundred tongues fused in the grace of Christ. Now,
in the ardor of his maturity and in the glamour of his bloody conquests,
Philip knows he has failed. Unity ... the health of Unity ... must be
sought elsewhere. Not in the piling up of worlds but in their giving up;
not in life but through death.
Many-mooded death. Death of the senses, death of the mind, death of
glory, death of the will to live. From his imperial splendor and from
the ranges of his kingly sway Philip steps forth an ascetic. He will
have his Solution within the ken of his eye—this master upon whose
realm the sun does not set. He is the lord of the earth; and lives with
one last mastering desire: to build a tomb for his glory.
Philip searches the waste fastness of Castile, until he finds his site:
this barren spur of the Sierra below whose rock spreads the desert. Now
he calls his slaves—they are the painters and the architects. Juan
Bautista de Toledo and his successor Juan de Herrera, builders of the
Escorial, are tools in the fever-cold hand of the king. Their plans are
studied, revised, rejected. Their ebullient moods are flayed, their
dignity is slurred. They are slaves—mere cutters of stone—they are
tools.
And so, in a land of bastard architectures, where the Gothic is
deformed, where Renaissance and baroque and Oriental forms are puddled
and hypertrophied and belied, rises this masterwork. In its brutal
chastity, speaks the tragic spirit of him who made it. The Escorial is
to unverdant, fanatically ordered Spain what the green tragedies of
Racine are to open, sweetly measured France.[16]
. . . . . .
Across the valley on a wooded height is a rocky bench known as the Seat
of the King. Here Philip comes each day and watches the Escorial grow
before him. He fears he might die ere it is done. He drives his slaves
the artists; imports whole corps of them from Italy and Flanders. And
when he is stricken with the illness which he thought his last, he is
carried in a litter from Madrid, eight dolorous days upon the bleak
meseta. He seeks the bare cell that is his Palace in the Escorial
basement; he lies in the bedroom built beside the Altar so that he may
hear Mass from his pillows. And so indeed he died. But still he sits
each afternoon upon the Silla del Rey, and watches.
Below him, the sun goes down and a cold moon rises. Below him a patch of
lawn and a flume float within this world splintered of granite and
twilight. A wood of encina stands like an army of cowled saints. They
are gnarled, gray-armored in moss, and their leaves are little
refulgences of prayer, holding the sunset above the sodden ground. They
look up, as Philip looks, toward the Escorial. It is matriced in jagged
rock; it is sheer from the sun and the moon light....
Spain, with face turned east away from the sun, takes her afternoon
siesta. She has dined well. Soup of seven meats, codfish, the seven
meats, cheese rich as manure, Galician greens, Toledan mazapan, Sevillan
dulces, wines from Málaga, Jérez and La Mancha, heroic tobacco from
the Canary Islands, fill her. She was hungry. For her day had been
active. She had served and fused the wills of many peoples: swift
Phœnicians, heavy-headed Romans, meteor Greeks, Goths with wild hair and
tender eyes, intricate introvert Jews, Arabs with convictions about the
materiality of Cosmos, Moors whose blood was fierce like Atlas
avalanche, sportsmen like the Cid whose charity was of the sword, whose
religion was of the moment, mystics of Castile parsing Christ with
Horace, Spaniards at last ... Torquemada, Isabela, Celestina ... makers
of the dominance of Castile. So Spain was hungry and heartily ate: was
weary and heavily slept. And her dream was a city of the eastern coast.
Its name Valencia. Its streets a Carnival. Its life a Masquerade.
Medieval towers stand over streets that shrill with modern shops. Great
Gates of Rome pinion the labyrinths of Orient. Arches of Islam throw
into shade white mansions built by American concerns of sewing machines
and fountain pens. All masquerade. The people speak a tongue close to
the French languedoc: they ride in Citroens and Fords. Put no trust in
this, they are not European. These open knots of barter, these entrail
alleys, murmurous and fluid, speak of Fez and Tunis. Fraud again: this
is not Africa. Islam puts a mockery on Rome. Judah redargues the
Castilian dogma. Moorish marts belie the modern measure. Avenues of
villas stretch straight from the town in gleams, and end in rice swamps:
near the bungalows toss galleys on the tide, with sails like the sails
of Carthage. Masquerade.
Here is the market place. Lonja de seda, the silk exchange, is Gothic.
(The mulberry trees are thick upon the huertas.) But the base from which
the Gothic rises is a Moorish palace. And from the noble height hangs
Arab ornament. The gargoyles indeed lean down like muedzins—fossil
muedzins with a frozen Allah on their lips. Under the holy walls, upon
the floor, squat merchants: they masquerade for Greece of the
Völkerchaos, for Talmudry of gain. And their commercial heads bathe in
the light of a fairer east—the Sun.
Outside are throngs. A church façade, rococo over-blown from the French
Renaissance, echoes the shouts of women at their sheds. Oranges in tons,
winesacks like human bodies, dates from Elche, potatoes, flowers,
donkeys towing tartinas ... all produce of the lush Valencian huerta.
The women wear great red aprons and have purple eyes....
Valencia in chaos is a masquerade. Greece, Carthage, Rome, Alexandria,
Mecca, Fez annul each other here. Turbulent Valencia does nothing, says
nothing. It is a dream of Spain, laden with her ages.
END OF PART ONE