UTOPIA YARN BOOK BEING A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON KNITTING AND CROCHETING
Transcriber’s Note:
New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.
FOURTEENTH EDITION
PUBLISHED BY THE MANUFACTURERS OF
UTOPIA YARNS
Copyright, 1919
By Henry E. Frankenberg Co.
New York
Introductory Remarks
3
In this, the Fourteenth Edition of the
Utopia Yarn Book, you will find
many exceptionally novel ideas for
Knitting and Crocheting, embodying
a carefully selected line of the very latest
creations of Sweater Coats. All the new and
most delightful garments and articles illustrated
throughout this book owe a great deal of their
charm to the fact that they have been worked
with Utopia Yarns. Their excellence lies
not only in their softness, elasticity and evenness
of thread, but in the variety of styles and
brilliant color lines as well. To secure the best
results in the Art of Knitting and Crocheting,
only the best yarns should be used. We therefore
recommend this book (for instructions)
and Utopia Yarns to attain this end. There
is a Utopia Yarn for every purpose.
The Recognized Manual of Knitting and Crocheting
4
To avoid committing the error so frequently
made of publishing a lot of directions that are
difficult to understand, or which involve an
amount of labor all out of proportion to the
result attained, we have employed a well-known
expert to write the instructions in the
Utopia Yarn Book.
Every one of the standard stitches is so
clearly illustrated and the directions are so concise
and to the point, that the novice will have
no difficulty in understanding them, while the
great number of novelties illustrated make the
book of unusual interest and value to the expert.
Full and explicit instructions are given right
from the making of the stitch to the completion
of the finished garment, while the styles selected
in every case are such as afford an excellent
return for the work involved.
List of General Abbreviations
5
St.—Stitch.
Sts.—Stitches.
Bor.—Border.
Cen.—Center.
W. L.—Waistline.
Inc.—Increase.
Dcr.—Decrease.
Dir.—Direction.
Dz.—Dozen.
E.—Each or Every.
Ex.—Extra.
Fol. Patt.—Follow Pattern.
Foll.—Follow.
Fr.—Front.
Edg.—Edge or edges.
Gr., Grp.—Group.
Grs. Grps.—Groups.
In.—Inch.
L., Lt.—Light.
Dk.—Dark.
Sk.—Skip or Skein as needed.
Pr.—Pair.
Pt.—Point.
Pts.—Points.
Sks.—Skeins.
Y.—Yarn.
W.—Wool.
Re.—Repeat.
Sl.—Sleeve.
Sls.—Sleeves.
Coll.—Collar.
Pct.—Pocket.
Sq., Sqr.—Square.
Sqrs.—Squares.
Wrk., Wk.—Work.
Sp.—Space.
Sps.—Spaces.
B., Bll.—Ball.
Blls.—Balls.
Str.—Stripe.
Strs.—Stripes.
Sc., Scal.—Scallop.
Str., Strt.—Straight.
Yd.—Yard.
Cir.—Circle.
Br., Brk.—Break.
Dr.—Draw.
S. L.—Single Loop.
Che.—Chenille.
Fld.—Fold.
No.—Number.
Bet.—Between.
Cor.—Corner.
Sm.—Small.
Abbreviations for Knitting and Crocheting — ABBREVIATIONS USED IN KNITTING — ABBREVIATIONS USED IN CROCHETING — ABBREVIATIONS FOR COLORS
K.—Knit.
Pl. K.—Plain Knit.
P.—Purl.
Rd., Rds.—Ridge, Ridges.
R.—Row.
Rs.—Rows.
Pl. St.—Plain Stitch.
Sl.—Slip a stitch.
N.—Needle.
Ns.—Needles.
N.—Narrow, decrease, or knit two together.
Sl. and B.—Slip and bind.
D. P.—Double Purl.
Ch.—Chain.
Cr., Cro.—Crochet.
Sl. St.—Slip stitch.
S. C.—Single Crochet.
D. C.—Double Crochet.
H. D. C.—Half Double Crochet.
Stk. St.—Stack-stitch.
Rib. St.—Ribbon Stitch.
L., Lps.—Loops.
L., Lp.—Loop.
Afg. St.—Afghan Stitch.
Tr. C., Tri. Cro.—Triple Crochet.
S. St.—Single Stitch.
L. C.—Long Crochet.
Pic., P.—Picot.
M.—Mesh; Ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c.
T. C.—Treble Crochet.
D. T. C.—Double Treble Crochet.
Col.—Color.
Bl.—Blue.
Blk.—Black.
Br.—Brown.
Gr.—Green or Grey.
Yel.—Yellow.
P., Pk.—Pink.
R. Anc.—Rose Ancienne.
Lav.—Lavender.
Wis.—Wistaria
Bt. Or.—Burnt Orange.
Wh.—White.
Pur.—Purple.
Kh.—Khaki.
Mex.—Mexique.
6These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the steel
and bone crochet hooks mentioned throughout this book.
Reduced Size
Bone Crochet Hooks
7These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the steel
and bone knitting pins mentioned throughout this book.
Steel Knitting Pins
Bone Knitting Pins
8These illustrations show the numbers and actual sizes of the amber
(celluloid) knitting pins and crochet hooks mentioned throughout
this book.
Celluloid Crochet Hooks
Celluloid Knitting Pins
Explanation of the Terms Used in Knitting — No. 1 To Cast on Stitches — No. 2 Another Way of Casting on Stitches — No. 3 To Knit — No. 4 1 Row Knit — No. 5 To Knit Back and Forth is Called a Ridge — No. 6 To Purl — No. 7 — No. 8 To Knit One Row — No. 9 Turn, Purl One Row — No. 10 To Slip a Stitch — No. 11 To Knit in Rib of K. 1, P. 1 — No. 12 To Increase a Stitch — No. 13 To Slip and Bind — No. 15. No Illustration To Bind Off — No. 14 — To Work a Corner in Knitting — To Narrow or Decrease a Stitch or to K. 2 Sts. Together — Knitted Button — Crocheted Button — Daisy — Roses and Leaves — Explanation of Terms Used in Crocheting — No. 1 Chain Stitch — No. 2 Slip Stitch — No. 3 Single Crochet — No. 4 Half Double Crochet — No. 5 Double Crochet — No. 6 Long Crochet — No. 7 Treble Crochet — No. 8 D. C. Around D. C. — No. 9 Picot Edge, No. 1 — Picot Edge, No. 2 — Picot Edge, No. 3 — No. 1a Afghan Stitch — No. 2a First Row of Afghan Stitch — No. 3a Second Row of Afghan Stitch — No. 4a To Increase an Afghan Stitch — No. 5a To Decrease an Afghan Stitch — To Bind Off the Afghan Stitch — Purled Afghan Stitch — Silk Edges, Nos. 1, 2 and 3 — Criss Cross Joining — Directions for Knitted Vamp and Foot for Baby’s Bootees — Large Flower and Leaves — Rose and Petals — Flower — Cherry on Stem with Leaves
9
Make a loop on the left-hand
needle, slip the right-hand needle
into this loop, * pass wool around
the point of needle, draw the wool
through and slip the loop forward
on to the left-hand needle, slip
right-hand needle into the loop just
made, repeat from * until the required
number of loops or sts. are
on left-hand needle.
Tie a slip knot with the wool
holding needle in right-hand, *
slip needle in loop just made, pass
wool around forefinger and thumb
of left-hand, holding wool underneath
fourth and fifth fingers in
palm of hand, insert needle under
wool of forefinger and over wool
between thumb and forefinger and
draw the wool which is now over
needle between thumb and forefinger
up through space, release
wool from thumb and forefinger,
drawing loop up on needle to form
the new loop or st., repeat from *
until required number of loops or
sts. are on needle, pass needle to
left-hand.
Having the required number of
sts. on left-hand needle, * slip right-hand
needle into front of st. on
left-hand needle, pass wool around
right-hand needle, and draw this
loop through to form the new st.
Leave the loop on right-hand
needle, dropping the st. from left-hand
needle, repeat from * until
all sts. are on right-hand needle.
10
Pass the wool in front of right-hand
needle, take up the st. on left-hand needle,
inserting the needle from right to
left, instead of usual way in knitting;
pass wool around the back of
right-hand needle.
Draw this loop through backward
instead of forward to form
the new st. Leave the loop on
right-hand needle, drop the st.
from left-hand needle, being careful
to carry the wool back of needle
after a purled st. before knitting a
plain st.
First Row—* Slip right-hand
needle into front of st. on left-hand
needle, pass wool around
right-hand needle, and draw this
loop through, leave the loop on
right-hand needle, drop same from
left-hand needle, repeat from *
until all sts. are knit on right-hand
needle.
Second Row—* Pass wool in
front of right-hand needle, inserting
the needle from right to left
instead of front of st. as in plain
knitting, pass wool around back of
right-hand needle and draw this
loop through backward instead of
forward, leave loop on right-hand
needle, drop st. from left-hand
needle, repeat from * until all sts.
are purled.
Repeat the first and second rows
alternately, the right side of work
will be plain knit, No. 8, and will
show the same results as when
knitting in rounds as on a stocking;
the left of work side is purled,
No. 9.
Take a st. from left-hand needle on to the
right-hand needle without knitting it.
11
Cast on an even number of sts., * slip
right-hand needle into front of st. on left-hand
needle, pass wool around right-hand
needle, and draw this loop through,
leave loop on right-hand needle,
drop st. from left-hand needle, pass
the wool in front of right-hand
needle, take up the st. on left-hand
needle, inserting needle from right
to left, pass wool around the back
of right-hand needle, and draw this
loop through backwards, leave
loop on right-hand needle, drop the
st. from left-hand needle, care
being taken to carry wool back of
needle after this purl st., repeat
from *.
K. the st. as usual, leaving it on
the left-hand needle, then k. the
back of same st., drop the st. from
left-hand needle; this makes two
sts. out of one.
Slip one st., k. the next st., pass
the slipped st. over the knitted one.
Note—Where it is necessary to
decrease the number of sts. the
slipped is passed over two or sometimes
three sts. knitted together.
Either slip or k. the first st., k
the next st., pass the first st. over
the second st. * K. the next st.,
pass the st. on right-hand needle
over it, repeat from * until as many
sts. are bound off as are required,
or that but one st. is left, draw
wool through this st., and break
off wool.
Another way to bind off is by
using a crochet hook, have all sts.
on the left-hand needle, insert hook
in the first st. on knitting needle,
wool over hook and draw through loop on
knitting needle, drop the st. from needle, *
insert hook in next st. on knitting needle,
over and draw through the st. on knitting
needle, and the loop on hook, drop the st.
from needle, repeat from * until all sts. are
bound off, ch. 1, break off wool.
12
First Row—Pick up the sts. from garment
with a steel knitting needle, after all
the sts. are picked up, k. with the needles
which are to be used in plain knitting, tie
a thread in sts. which are to be the corner
sts.
Second Row—K. to within one st., which
is to be the corner st., over, k. the corner
st., over, and k. the remaining sts.
Third Row—K. all the sts., also knitting
the wool over.
Repeat second and third rows for as many
rows as are required or ridges.
(No Illustration)
Insert right-hand needle into two sts., at
once, same as in k., over, and draw through
the two sts. as if they were one, drop the
sts. from left-hand needle or insert the
needle through the back of two sts., same
as in p., over, and draw through the two
sts., drop the st. from left-hand needle.
A Round—To k. once around the work,
when three or more needles are used, as in
a stocking.
To make a Buttonhole, when Knitting—K.
3 sts., bind off two or as many sts. as
the size of buttonhole desired, and in next
row cast on as many sts. as were bound off.
Cuffs—Start to k. all cuffs in center of
sleeve from seam.
With wool, cast on 6 sts., k. in ridges,
increase 1 st. on each end of needle every
other row until there are 12 sts. on needle,
k. 6 ridges, then decrease 1 st. on each end
of needle every other row until 6 sts. are
left, bind off, leave about 10 inches of wool,
and draw all sts. around knitted cover, as
illustrated, slip in mould, and draw firmly
together.
To make larger or smaller cover for buttons,
cast on more or less sts., k. until desired
width, then k. as many ridges as sts.
started, then decrease again, bind off.
Crocheted Buttons—Ch. 3 sts., turn, skip
1 st., 8 s. c. in next st.
* 1 s. c. in st., 2 s. c. in next st., repeat
from * until cover is large enough to cover
mould, slip in mould, then * * 1 s. c. in st.,
skip 1 st., repeat from * * until closed.
With white wool, or 2 threads of white
silk, ch. 6 sts., join with a sl. st. to form a
ring, * ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c.,
1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on the
9 ch. sts., 1 s. c. in ring, repeat from * 7
times, break off silk or wool.
With yellow wool or silk, ch. 5 sts., join
to form a ring, 10 s. c. in ring.
Sew neatly to center of daisy.
With colored or white wool, or 2 threads
13of silk, ch. 8 sts., join with a sl. st. to form
a ring, ch. 3, 15 d. c. in ring counting ch. 3
as 1 d. c., join with a sl. st. in top ch. st.
on ch. 3.
Second Round—Repeat ch. 5, skip 2 sts.,
1 s. c. in next st., 5 times.
Third Round—1 s. c., 5 d. c., 1 s. c. in
each of the 5 spaces.
Fourth Round—Repeat ch. 7, 1 s. c. in
s. c. of second round, 5 times.
Fifth Round—1 s. c., 7 d. c., 1 s. c. in
each of the 5 spaces, leave enough wool
or silk to sew on with.
Leaves—With colored or white
wool or silk, ch. 8 sts., turn, skip
1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c.,
1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on the 8 ch. sts.,
ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h.
d. c., 1 s. c. on the same 8 ch. sts.
on the other side, leave enough
wool or silk to sew on with.
To start the ch., tie a slip knot,
* insert the hook, pass the wool
over hook and draw through a
loop, repeat from *, drawing
through as many loops as are required.
Each loop being called a
ch. st.
Insert hook in ch. or st., over,
and draw a loop through ch. or st.
and the loop on hook.
Insert hook in ch. or st., draw
the wool through, over, and draw
through both loops on hook.
Over, insert the hook in ch. or
st., draw a loop through, over, and
draw through the three loops on
hook.
Over, insert the hook in ch. or
st., draw a loop through, over, and
draw through two loops, over, and
draw through two loops.
14
Over, insert the hook in ch. or st., draw
a loop through, over, and draw through a
loop, over, and draw through two loops,
over, and draw through two loops.
Over twice, insert the hook in
ch. or st., draw a loop through,
over, and draw through two loops,
over, and draw through two loops,
over, and draw through two loops.
Ch. an even number of sts., turn,
skip 3 sts., 1 d. c. in each of the
ch. sts., turn, ch. 3.
Second Row—Skip 1 st., * over,
insert hook in space before next
d. c. and out again next to d. c.,
over, and draw through a loop,
over, draw through 2 loops, over,
draw through 2 loops, repeat from
* to end of row.
Repeat second row for d. c.
around d. c.
1 s. c. in top of st., * ch. 3, draw
a loop through same st. where last
st. was made in, draw a loop
through next st., over, draw
through the 3 loops on hook, repeat
from *.
1 s. c. in top of st., * ch. 3, 1 s. c.
in next st., repeat from *.
(No Illustration)
1 s. c. in st., * ch. 4, insert hook
in first st. on ch. 4, draw a loop
through ch. st. and loop on hook,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat
from *.
Note—In making a picot edge care must
be taken to crochet edge so as to lay flat,
skipping one or more sts. at intervals or
crocheting looser or firmer.
15
Ch. as many sts. as are required,
turn, skip 1 st., draw a loop through
each st. on ch. until all the sts. of
ch. are on hook.
Over, and draw through one
loop, * over, draw through 2 loops,
repeat from * until there is 1 loop
on hook.
Draw a loop through each upright
st. until all loops are on hook.
Note—The first and second rows
crocheted alternately are always
counted as one complete row of
the afghan st.
Draw a loop through ch. st. between
the two upright sts., when
making the second row.
Over, draw through 3 sts., instead
of 2 sts., as in first row.
(No Illustration)
* Insert hook in next upright st.,
over, and draw through upright st.
and loop on hook, repeat from *
until all sts. are bound off, ch. 1,
break off wool.
16
Ch. as many sts. as are required, turn,
skip 1 st., draw a loop through each st. on
ch. until all the sts. of ch. are on hook, over,
and draw through 1 loop, * over, draw
through 2 loops, repeat from * until there
is 1 loop left on hook.
First Row—* Pass wool to right side of
work, draw a loop through upright st., repeat
from * until there is one loop on hook,
work back as in plain afghan st. Repeat
first row for the work.
Silk Edge No. 1—With steel hook, ch. 1,
* 1 s. c. in st., skip 2 sts., 5 d. c. in next st.,
repeat from * around neck of yoke, * * ch.
4, 1 s. c. in next st. around kimono and
sleeves.
Silk Edge No. 2—Ch. 1, 1 sl. st. in st., *
ch. 3, 1 sl. st. in next st., repeat from *
around kimono and sleeves.
Silk Edge No. 3—Ch. 1, * 1 s. c. in st.,
skip 1 st., 6 d. c. in next st., skip 1 st., repeat
from *, making 9 d. c. instead of 6 d. c. in
all corner sts.
Take the strips to be joined, ch. 1, slip
this ch. off the hook, take the 2 strips to be
joined, insert hook in first st. on one strip,
slip ch. st. on hook again and draw through
st. (this will bring wool on wrong side of
work), insert hook in second st. on other
strip, over, draw through a long loop, draw
this loop through loop on hook, cross back
to third st. on first strip, repeat crossing
back and forth drawing a long loop from
one strip then the other, care being taken
to skip only one st. on each strip in crossing
back and forth.
Vamp and Foot—K. 7 sts. on 1st needle,
slip the next 14 sts. on a second needle, slip
the next 14 sts. on a third needle, and the
remaining 7 sts. slip to the first 7 sts. on
first needle for vamp, there will be 14 sts.
on each of 3 needles, k. 1 round, p. 1 round,
k. 1 round, p. 1 round, on the 14 sts. on first
needle. K. 17 ridges for vamp or 19 ridges
from start of foot, leave the 14 sts. on
needle, break off wool. To the 14 sts. on
needle at side of boot, pick up 17 sts. for
side of vamp, having 31 sts. on needle, then
with a spare needle pick up 17 sts. from
other side of vamp and slip these 17 sts. to
the 14 sts. on side of foot, having 31 sts.
on needle.
Start at heel, k. 1 round, p. 1 round, k. 1
round, p. 1 round.
Fifth Round—K. 31 sts., n., k. 10, n., k.
31 sts.
Sixth Round—P.
Repeat fifth and sixth rounds alternately,
having 6 sts. between the 2 decreasing points
at toe.
K. 1 round, p. 1 round until there are 14
rounds or 7 ridges from start of foot.
Fifteenth Round—N., k. to end of round.
Sixteenth Round—P.
Seventeenth Round—K. up to the last 2
sts., n.
Eighteenth Round—P.
Nineteenth Round—Same as fifteenth
round.
Twentieth Round—P.
Fold in half and bind off together, or
bind off and sew feet together.
17
With white wool or silk, ch. 9
sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c.,
4 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in each of
the 9 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c.,
1 d. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in the same
ch. sts., where the first 8 sts. were
made in, ch. 1, break off wool or
silk.
Make 5 of these petals for one
flower, sew together in center.
Center—With yellow wool or
silk, ch. 4 sts., join to form a ring.
10 s. c. in ring, join, ch. 1, break
off wool, sew to center of flower.
Leaf—With green wool or silk,
ch. 14 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in
each of 2 ch. sts., 1 h. d. c. in next
st., 1 d. c. in each of 7 sts., 1 h. d. c.
in st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 sts., * ch.
1. repeat from * backwards in the
same 14 ch. sts.
Make 3 leaves for each flower
and sew on same.
With Rose Ancienne Wool No. 3692 or
rope silk, ch. 6, join with a sl. st. to form a
ring, ch. 3, 14 d. c. in ring, counting ch. 3 as
1 d. c., join to top of ch. st. with a sl. st.,
ch. 1, break off, fasten.
Second Round—With dark rose wool or
silk, ch. 1, 1 s. c. in st., * ch. 8, skip 4 sts.,
1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * around.
Third Round—1 s. c., 1 d. c., 7 L. d. c., 1
d. c., 1 s. c. in each of 3 spaces, ch. 1, fasten.
Make 4 of these flowers.
Leaves—With green wool or rope silk,
ch. 8 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 sl. st., 1 s. c.,
1 d. c. in each of 3 sts., 1 s. c., 1 sl. st. in
each of 7 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 sl. st., 1 s. c., 1 d. c.
in each of 3 sts., 1 s. c., 1 sl. st. in each of 7
ch. sts., where first sts. were made in, leave
about 10 inches of wool or silk to sew on
with, make 3 leaves for each flower and sew
on between petals.
With water blue wool or 2 threads of silk,
ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c.,
1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in
the 9 ch. sts., ch. 1, 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c.
in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. in same
ch. sts. where first 8 sts. were made in,
ch. 1, break off wool or silk.
Make 5 of these petals for one flower, sew
together in center.
Center—With green, ch. 4 sts., join to
form a ring, 10 s. c. in ring, join, ch. 1,
break off, sew to center of flower.
With red wool or 2 threads of silk, ch. 4,
join to form a ring, ch. 3, 15 d. c. in ring,
join with a sl. st. to top ch. st. on ch. 3.
Leaves—With green, ch. 1, 1 sl. st. in st.
on cherry, * ch. 15 sts., turn, skip 1 st.,
1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts.,
1 h. d. c., 1 s. c. on 9 of the 15 ch. sts., 1 sl.
st. in next ch. st., ch. 9, turn, skip 1 st., 1 h. d.
c., 1 d. c. in each of 4 sts., 1 h. d. c., 1 s. c.
in the 9 ch. sts., 1 sl. st. in sl. st., repeat
from * once more, ch. 10, break off wool.
Crochet Patterns
18
No. 1
Chain 30 sts.
First Row—Skip 5 sts., 1 d. c. in next st.,
* ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., repeat
from * to end of row, turn, ch. 5.
Second Row—Skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c.,
* ch 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c., repeat
from *.
Repeat second row for pattern.
No. 2
Chain 30 sts., 1 s. c. in 8th st., * ch. 5, skip
3 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * to
end of row.
Second Row—Turn, * chain 5, 1 s. c. in 3d
st. of 5 ch. of first row, repeat from *.
Repeat second row for pattern.
No. 3
Chain 35 sts., turn, 1 d. c. on 4th st., 6 d. c.
on next 6 sts., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on
next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next 7
sts., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 4, turn, 6 d. c. on next
6 d. c., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c.,
ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on 7 d. c., repeat
from * to end of row.
Third Row—Ch. 5, turn, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c.
on next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next
7 sts., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on next st.,
ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. on next 7 sts., repeat
from * to end of row.
Fourth Row—Same as third row; repeat
these 4 rows alternately for pattern.
No. 4
Chain 35 sts., turn, 1 d. c. on 6th st.,
1 d. c. on next st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 2 d. c.
on next 2 sts., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 3, 1 d. c. in m., * ch. 2,
skip 2 sts., 2 d. c. in m., repeat from *, repeat
second row for pattern.
No. 5
Chain 30 sts., skip 4 sts., * over, draw
loop through next st., over, draw through
1 loop, over, draw through 2 loops, over,
draw through 2 loops, repeat from * to end
of row.
Second Row—Ch. 3, * over, draw loop
through st. between the d. c. on wrong side
to keep chain st. perfect on right side, over,
draw loop through 1 loop, over, draw loop
through 2 loops, over, draw loop through
2 loops, repeat from * to end of row.
Repeat second row for pattern.
19
No. 6
Ch. 35, turn, skip 4 sts., 1 d. c. on every
stitch, ch. 3, turn.
Second Row—* Over, draw loop through
next st., over, draw through 1 loop, over,
draw through 2 loops, over, draw through 2
loops, 1 d. c. in next st., repeat from * to
end of row.
Third Row—1 d. c. in every stitch, ch. 3,
turn, repeat second and third rows for pattern.
No. 7
Ch. 28 sts., 1 s. c. in every stitch, break off
yarn at every row.
Second Row—Ch. 1, 1 s. c. in next 14 sts.,
ch. 3, 1 s. c. in first ch. st. for picot, 1 s. c.
in next 13 sts.
Third Row—1 s. c. in every stitch to end
of row.
Fourth Row—1 s. c. in next 12 sts., 1
picot, 1 s. c. in next 4 sts., 1 picot, 1 s. c.
in next 12 sts.
Fifth Row—1 s. c. in every stitch, to end
of row.
Sixth Row—1 s. c. in next 10 sts., 1 picot,
4 s. c. in next 4 sts., 1 picot, 4 s. c. in next
4 sts., 1 picot, 1 s. c. in next 10 sts.
Seventh Row—1 s. c. in every stitch to
end of row.
Eighth Row—1 s. c. in next 8 sts., 1 picot,
4 s. c. in next 4 sts., 1 picot, 4 s. c. in next
4 sts., 1 picot, 4 s. c. in next 4 sts., 1 picot,
1 s. c. in next 8 sts.
Ninth Row—1 s. c. in every stitch to end
of row.
Repeat these rows backwards from 8–1.
No. 8
Chain 38 sts., skip 5 sts., 1 d. c. in 6th
ch. st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st.
Repeat from * to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Second Row—Skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c.,
* ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on d. c. Repeat
from * to end of row, ch. 4, turn.
Third Row—1 d. c. in every stitch to end
of row, ch. 6, turn.
Fourth Row—Skip 2 sts., 1 t. c., * ch. 3,
skip 2 sts., 1 d. c., ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c.,
ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 1 t. c. Repeat from * to
end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Fifth Row—1 s. c. in center of 3 ch., ch.
3, skip 4 sts., 1 s. c. in next 3 sts., * ch. 3,
skip 4 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., ch. 3, skip 4
sts., 1 s. c. in next 3 sts.
Repeat from * to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Sixth Row—Skip 2 sts., 1 s. c. in next
5 sts., * ch. 5, skip 5 sts., 1 s. c. on next
5 sts., ch. 5, skip 5 sts., 1 s. c. on next 5 sts.
Repeat from * to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Seventh Row—1 s. c. on center of 5 ch.,
* ch. 3, skip 3 sts., 1 s. c. on next 3 sts.,
ch. 3, skip 3 sts., 1 s. c. on next st., ch. 3,
skip 3 sts., 1 s. c. on next 3 sts.
Repeat from * to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Eighth Row—Skip 1 st., 1 d. c. on next
st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 t. c. on next st., *
ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. on next st., ch. 2,
skip 3 sts., 1 d. c. on next st., ch. 2, skip 2
sts., 1 t. c. on next st.
Repeat to end of row, ch. 4, turn.
Ninth Row—1 d. c. on every stitch to end
of row.
Tenth and Eleventh Rows—Same as first
and second rows.
Knot Stitch Crochet Pattern
20
No. 9
Chain 35, turn.
First Row—* Work stitch on hook ¼ inch
long, take up thread and draw through this
loop; put hook under thread just drawn
through between it and the long st., take up
thread, draw through, take up thread, draw
through both sts. on hook; this is one knot
stitch; work one more same way; skip 4
sts., 1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * to end
of row.
Second Row—Same as first row.
Always make two knot stitches, then work
1 s. c. on each side of knot of previous row.
Repeat this row for pattern.
Knitted Patterns
No. 1
Cast on 25 sts., k. 1 st., * over, slip 1 st.,
k. 2 sts. together, over, slip 1 st., k. 2 sts.
together, repeat from * to end of row, ending
row k. 1 st.
Second Row—K. 1 st., * over, slip 1 st.,
k. 2 sts. together, repeat from * to end of
row same as first row. Repeat this stitch
for pattern.
No. 2
Cast on 29 sts., slip 1 st., k. 3, p. 3, k. 3,
p. 3, repeat to end of row, ending row
k. 4.
Second row—Slip 1st st., p. 3, k. 3, p. 3,
k. 3, repeat to end of row, ending row
p. 4.
Third Row—Slip 1st st., k. 3, p. 3, k. 3,
p. 3, repeat to end of row, ending row
k. 4.
Fourth Row—Slip 1st st., k. 1 row.
Fifth Row—Slip 1st st., p. 1 row.
Sixth Row—Slip 1st st., k. 1 row.
Seventh Row—Slip 1st st., p. 3, k. 3,
p. 3, k. 3, repeat to end of row, ending
row p. 4.
Eighth Row—Slip 1st st., k. 3, p. 3,
k. 3, p. 3, repeat to end of row, ending
row k. 4.
Ninth Row—Slip 1st st., p. 3, k. 3, p. 3,
k. 3, repeat to end of row, ending row
p. 4.
Tenth Row—Slip 1st st., k. 1 row.
Eleventh Row—Slip 1st st., p. 1 row.
Twelfth Row—Slip 1st st., k. 1 row.
Repeat these 12 rows for pattern.
No. 3
Cast on 30 sts., * k. 6, p. 2, k. 6, p. 2,
repeat from * to end of row, ending row
k. 6.
21Second Row—* P. 6, k. 2, p. 6, k. 2, repeat
from * to end of row, ending row p. 2.
Third Row—Same as first row.
Fourth Row—Same as second row.
Repeat these 4 rows alternately until there
are eleven rows altogether.
Twelfth Row—K. 1 row.
Thirteenth
Row—K. 2, p. 2, * k. 6, p. 2, k. 6, p. 2, repeat
from * to end of row, ending row k. 2.
Fourteenth Row—P. 2, k. 2, * p. 6, k. 2,
p. 6, k. 2, repeat from * to end of row,
ending row p. 2.
Fifteenth Row—Same as 13th row.
Sixteenth Row—Same as 14th row.
Repeat 13th, 14th, 15th, 16th rows alternately
until there are eleven rows altogether.
Seventeenth Row—K. 1 row. Repeat
these rows (1–17) alternately for pattern.
No. 4
Cast on 31 sts., * k. 7, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, repeat
from * to end of row, ending row k. 7.
Second Row—K. 1 row.
Third Row—*
K. 7, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, repeat from * to end of
row, ending row k. 7.
Fourth Row—K. 1
row. Repeat these rows for pattern.
No. 5
Cast on 30 sts., k. 6 rows, having 3 ridges.
Seventh Row—K. 1 st., * k. 2 sts. together,
k. 1 st., repeat from * to end of row, k. 4
rows, repeat 7th row.
Repeat these rows for pattern.
No. 6
Cast on 30 sts., 1st row, * k. 2, p. 2,
k. 2, p. 2, repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Same as first row.
Third Row—* P. 2, k. 2, p. 2, k. 2, repeat
from * to end of row.
Fourth Row—Same as third row.
Repeat these 4 rows alternately for pattern.
No. 7
First Row—* P. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 11, repeat
from * to end of row.
Second Row—* K. 1, p. 3, k. 1, p. 9, repeat
from * to end of row.
Third Row—* P. 1, k. 5, p. 1, k. 7, repeat
from * to end of row.
Fourth Row—* P. 5, k. 1, p. 5, k. 1, repeat
from * to end of row.
Fifth Row—K. 6, * p. 1, k. 3, p. 1, k. 9,
repeat from * to end of row.
Sixth Row—P. 7, * k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 11,
repeat from * to end of row.
Seventh Row—K. 8, * p. 1, k. 13, repeat
from * to end of row.
Eighth Row—P. 7, * k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 11,
repeat from * to end of row.
Ninth Row—K. 6, * p. 1, k. 3, p. 1, k. 9,
repeat from * to end of row.
Tenth Row—P. 5, * k. 1, p. 5, k. 1, p. 7,
repeat from * to end of row.
Eleventh Row—K. 4, * p. 1, k. 7, p. 1,
k. 5, repeat from * to end of row.
Twelfth Row—P. 3, * k. 1, p. 9, k. 1, p. 3,
repeat from * to end of row.
Thirteenth Row—K. 2, * p. 1, k. 11, p. 1,
k. 1, repeat from * to end of row.
Fourteenth Row—* K. 1, p. 13, k. 1, p. 13,
repeat from * to end of row.
Fifteenth Row—* P. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 11,
repeat from * to end of row.
Back—Ch. 128 sts., turn, skip 5 sts., 1 d. c.
in next st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next
st., repeat from * to end of row, having 41
spaces.
23Second Row—Turn, ch. 4, * 2 d. c. in
space, 1 d. c. in next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1
d. c. in next st., repeat from * to end of row,
having 21 blocks and 20 spaces.
Third Row—Ch. 6, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in
next st. * 2 d. c. in space, 1 d. c. in next st.,
ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., repeat
from * to end of row. Crochet 4 more rows
of this pattern (second and third row) 1
block and 1 space alternately.
Next Row—Ch. 6, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in first
st., 2 d. c. in space, 1 d. c. in next st., ch. 2,
skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., work 35 spaces;
to other side repeat same pattern (1 block, 1
space, 1 block). Work 19 rows to waistline
with pattern of blocks and spaces on both
sides; this is waistline.
Belt—With crochet hook No. 1 ch. 4, * 1
d. c. in every space, 1 d. c. over d. c., repeat
from * to end of row, this narrows beltline,
work 8 more rows of 1 d. c. in every st.
Next Row—Ch. 6, skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in next
st., * ch. 2, skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in next st.,
repeat from * to end of row, having 41
spaces. Work 17 rows from belt of spaces.
Ch. 108 sts. for sleeve, work 39 spaces,
work across back. With separate thread ch.
108 sts. for other sleeve, fasten with slip
st. to 1st of last row, continue with spaces
to end of row, work 14 rows of spaces. On
15th row work 53 spaces, then blocks, 4 d. c.,
1 space, until there are 7 of each; this is
back of neck; continue with spaces to end
of sleeve; work same pattern across back
for 2 more rows alternately, blocks and
spaces; at 17th row from where sleeve
started leave 3 blocks and 4 spaces for
neck; work other half of sleeve and down
front after the following direction: Work 3
rows of pattern, blocks and spaces alternately
down front of neck; increase 1 space
every other row towards sleeve above first
block, in which work 5 d. c., work 20 rows.
On the 13th row of sleeve from shoulder
skip 3 spaces at bottom of sleeve.
Fourteenth Row—Skip 4 spaces.
Fifteenth Row—Skip 4 spaces.
Sixteenth Row—Skip 4 spaces.
This narrows sleeve. On 17th row work
the last 25 spaces. This finishes sleeve (12
inches). From start work the 3 more rows
across front; work other side and sleeve,
then ch. 20 sts. at front, join to other side
and work pattern for 7 rows of blocks and
spaces in center of front; work sideseam
same length as back; then start belt with
fine needle, 1 d. c. in every space, 1 d. c. in
next st., repeat to end of row; work 9 rows
same as back; change to spaces; leave 1 st.
between each d. c., having 53 spaces, work
pattern down each side of front same as
back, 19 rows of spaces, then border same
as back.
Cuffs—1 s. c. in space, 1 s. c. in next sts.
for 6 times, 1 s. c. in the next 17 spaces, 1
s. c. in space, 1 s. c. in next sts. for 6 times.
Next Row—1 d. c. in every st.
Next Row—1 block of 4 d. c., in space of
2 ch., seven of each; work 5 rows. Sew
neatly together.
First Row—Skip 3 sts., 1 d. c. in every
st.; repeat to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 4., 1 d. c. in every st.
to end of row.
Third and Fourth Rows—Same sts., 119
d. c.
Fifth Row—Ch. 4., skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in
next st., * ch. 1, skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in next st.;
25repeat from * to end of row. 59 spaces
to row.
Sixth Row—Same as fifth row.
Seventh Row—Ch. 4, skip 1 st., 1 d. c.
in next st., work 4 more spaces, 3 d. c. in
next 3 sts., * work 11 spaces, 3 d. c. in next
3 sts., repeat from * to end of row, ending
row with 5 spaces.
Eighth Row—Turn, ch. 4, work 4 spaces,
* 3 d. c. in next 3 sts., 1 space, 3 d. c. in
next 3 sts., work 9 spaces, repeat from * to
end of row, ending row with 4 spaces.
Ninth Row—Ch. 4, 3 spaces, * 3 d. c. in
next 3 sts., 3 spaces, 3 d. c. in next 3 sts.,
7 spaces, repeat from * to end of row, ending
row 3 spaces.
Tenth Row—Ch. 4, 2 spaces, * 3 d. c. in
next 3 sts., 2 spaces, 3 d. c., 2 spaces, 3 d. c.,
5 spaces, repeat from * ending row 2 spaces.
Eleventh Row—1 space, 3 d. c., 2 spaces,
* 7 d. c., 2 spaces, 3 d. c., 3 spaces, 3 d. c.,
2 spaces, repeat from * to end of row, ending
row 1 space.
Twelfth Row—3 spaces, * 11 d. c., 2
spaces, 3 d. c., 1 space, 3 d. c., 2 spaces,
repeat from * to end of row, ending row
3 spaces.
This is center of pattern; repeat the last
5 rows backwards from 11th to 7th row.
Work in spaces for 12 rows (4 inches). This
is waistline.
Belt—First Row—Work * 5 d. c. over
first 3 spaces, skip 1 space, 5 d. c. in next
5 sts., skip 1 space, repeat from * to end
of row, work 9 rows, 1 d. c. in every st.
(3 inches). Work 17 rows of spaces. 50
spaces to row.
Ch. 105 sts. for sleeve, turn, skip 4 sts.,
work 50 spaces, work spaces across back,
ch. 105 sts. for other sleeve with separate
yarn, fasten to row below, then work spaces
to end of row. Work 6 inches, or 18 rows,
having 100 spaces for back and 1 sleeve;
work 67 spaces from start of sleeve; leave
16 spaces at back of neck; on other 67
spaces work 6 inches, or 18 rows, for other
half of sleeve, 12 inches altogether from
where sleeve started. Work 2 rows plain
at neck; increase 1 st. every other row
down front of neck for 18 rows; work other
side and sleeve to correspond.
Ch. 22 sts., join fronts together, work 3
rows of d. c. on the 22 ch. sts., work 3 rows
of spaces; at side seam increase 1 st. every
other row for 3 times.
Fourth Row—Work 33 spaces, 3 d. c.—this
is center of front—ending row 33
spaces.
Next Row—32 spaces, 7 d. c., then 32
spaces.
Next Row—31 spaces, 11 d. c., then 31
spaces.
Next Row—28 spaces, 3 d. c., 3 spaces,
7 d. c., 3 spaces, 3 d. c., 28 spaces.
Next Row—27 spaces, 7 d. c., 3 spaces,
3 d. c., 3 spaces, 7 d. c., 27 spaces.
Next Row—26 spaces, 11 d. c., 5 spaces,
11 d. c., 26 spaces.
Next Row—27 spaces, 7 d. c., 3 spaces,
3 d. c., 3 spaces. 7 d. c., 27 spaces.
Next Row—28 spaces, 3 d. c., 3 spaces,
7 d. c., 3 spaces, 28 spaces.
Next Row—31 spaces, 11 d. c., 31 spaces.
Next Row—32 spaces, 7 d. c., 32 spaces.
Next Row—33 spaces, 3 d. c., 33 spaces.
Two more rows of spaces.
Belt—Work * 5 d. c. in next 5 sts., skip
1 space, 5 d. c. in next 5 sts., skip 1 space,
repeat from * to end of row, work 9 rows
(3 inches) of d. c. same as back.
Next Row—Work 2 spaces, increase 1
space, work 2 spaces, increase 1 space, having
65 spaces, work 12 rows of spaces, then
start border, work 8 spaces, 3 d. c., 11
spaces, 3 d. c., 11 spaces, ending row 8
spaces.
Work same pattern as back (7 to 12
rows), ending with 4 d. c. rows.
Collar—Ch. 30, work 15 spaces.
First Row—3 spaces, 3 d. c., 11 spaces.
Second Row—10 spaces, 7 d. c., 2 spaces.
Third Row—1 space, 11 d. c., 9 spaces.
Fourth Row—10 spaces, 7 d. c., 2 spaces.
Fifth Row—3 spaces, 3 d. c., 11 spaces.
Sixth Row—15 spaces.
Repeat pattern from first to fifth row,
with 1 row of spaces between for 26 inches.
Sew neatly to sweater.
Cuff—Work * 5 d. c. over 2 spaces, skip
1 space, repeat from * all around, work 7
rows of d. c. in every st.
Next Row—Work 28 spaces around and
4 rows, then work same pattern as on collar.
4 blocks, 3 spaces, 3 d. c., * 6 spaces,
3 d. c., repeat from *.
Sew sweater neatly together to match
pattern at side seam.
Second Row—9 m. with 2 ch. between, 13
m. with 1 ch. between, 4 m. with 2 ch. between,
13 m. with 1 ch. between, 9 m. with 2
ch. between, start and finish every row with
9 m. with 2 ch. between, also the 4 m. which
run up in center of back, work 2 ch. between
each m. Throughout pattern work the m.
with 1 ch. between; this will not be referred
to again.
27Third Row—9 m., start pattern, 1 m., 3 d.
c., 3 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 2 m. * repeat
from * backwards to dash every row for
other half, work 4 m. with the 2 ch. between.
Fourth Row—9 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 1
m., 3 d. c., 5 m., * repeat backwards with 4
m. between.
Fifth Row—9 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c.,
7 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Sixth Row—9 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c.,
2 m., 9 d. c., 2 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Seventh Row—9 m., 3 m., 5 d. c., 1 m.,
13 d. c., 1 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Eighth Row—9 m., 4 m., 7 d. c., 3 m.,
7 d. c., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Ninth Row—9 m., 1 m., 3 d. c., 2 m.,
5 d. c., 5 m., 5 d. c., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Tenth Row—9 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c.,
2 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Eleventh Row—9 m., 7 d. c., 1 m.,
3 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c., * 4 m.,
repeat from *.
Twelfth Row—9 m., 2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m.,
5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Thirteenth Row—9 m., 4 m., 3 d. c.,
2 m., 9 d. c., 2 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Fourteenth Row—9 m., 1 m., 5 d. c.,
2 m., 3 d. c., 7 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Fifteenth Row—9 m., 9 d. c., 1 m.,
5 d. c., 6 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Sixteenth Row—9 m., 2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m.,
5 d. c., 3 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Seventeenth Row—9 m., 5 m., 3 d. c.,
1 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Eighteenth Row—9 m., 7 m., 5 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Nineteenth Row—9 m., 2 m., 9 d. c.,
2 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Twentieth Row—9 m., 1 m., 13 d. c.,
1 m., 5 d. c., 3 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Twenty-first Row—9 m., 7 d. c., 3 m.,
7 d. c., 4 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Twenty-second Row—9 m., 5 d. c.,
5 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Twenty-third Row—9 m., 5 d. c., 2 m.,
5 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., * 4 m.,
repeat from *.
Twenty-fourth Row—Work the 9 m. at
start and finish of each row, also the 4 m.
in center of back, with 1 ch. between each
m.; this narrows waistline; work the next
10 rows in this way.
Twenty-fourth Row—9 m., 5 d. c.,
2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., * 4 m.,
repeat from *.
Twenty-fifth Row—9 m., 1 m., 5 d. c.,
2 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Twenty-sixth Row—9 m., 2 m., 9 d. c.,
2 m., 3 d. c., 4 m., * 4 m., repeat from *.
Twenty-seventh Row—9 m., 7 m.,
3 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
Twenty-eighth Row—9 m., 6 m., 5
d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., * 4 m., repeat
from *.
This is the pattern to be repeated from
3d row to the 28th row throughout sweater,
up back, across shoulders, and down front;
after working the 10 rows for belt line, work
the 9 m. at start and finish of each row,
also the 4 m. in center of back, with 2 ch.
between each m., work 16 rows up the back
to sleeve. Ch. 90 for sleeve, work 28 m.
over this ch., work across back, with separate
yarn, ch. 90 for other sleeve, fasten
with slip st. to row below, work 28 m. on
this ch., then work 16 rows up the back to
neck, skip the 4 m. with 2 ch. between that
are in center of back, continue with pattern
over shoulder down front for 17 rows; this
finishes sleeve; work other side the same,
skip 28 m. for sleeve, then work 3 more
rows down the front, starting with 9 m. at
side seam, then ch. 20, fasten to other front,
work 6 m. over this ch. with 2 ch. between
each m., continue with pattern down
the front same as back, working 18 rows
to belt, work the 10 rows for belt same as
back, and 24 more rows to end of sweater.
Last row 1 d. c. in every stitch.
Model No. 855
Work following pattern on sleeve:
First Row—3 d. c., 5 m., 9 d. c., 5 m.,
9 d. c., 4 m., 7 d. c., 4 m., 3 d. c., 4 m., 9 d. c.,
3 m.
28Second Row—3 d. c., 4 m., 13 d. c., 4 m.,
9 d. c., 3 m., 9 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 4 m., 13 d. c.,
1 m., 2 d. c.
Third Row—5 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c., 3 m.,
5 d. c., 3 m., 9 d c., 5 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c.,
2 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 2 d. c.
Fourth Row—5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 5 m.,
3 d. c., 12 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 3 m.,
5 d. c., 5 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 2 d. c.
Fifth Row—3 d. c., 3 m., 5 d. c., 1 m.,
5 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 5 m., 15 d. c., 2 m.,
3 d. c., 3 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c.,
2 m., 3 d. c., 2 m.
Sixth Row—1 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c.,
1 m., 11 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 5 d. c., 4 m.,
7 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 11 d. c.,
2 m.
Seventh Row—5 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c.,
3 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 5 m.,
5 d. c., 4 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 2 m.,
3 d. c.
Eighth Row—3 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c., 4 m.,
5 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 9 d. c.,
5 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 4 m., 5 d. c.,
1 m.
Ninth Row—1 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 19 d. c.,
3 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c., 7 m.,
19 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c.
Tenth Row—6 m., 3 d. c., 4 m., 3 d. c.,
2 m., 5 d. c., 1 m., 5 d. c., 5 m., 3 d. c., 3 m.,
3 d. c., 5 m., 3 d. c., 4 m., 3 d. c., 2 m., 5 d. c.
Eleventh Row—3 m., 7 d. c., 4 m., 5 d. c.,
1 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 5 d. c., 5 m.,
7 d. c., 4 m., 5 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c.
Twelfth Row—3 m., 5 d. c., 4 m., 7 d. c.,
5 m., 13 d. c., 5 m., 9 d. c., 3 m., 7 d. c.,
3 m., 5 d. c., 1 m.
Thirteenth Row—4 m., 5 d. c., 5 m., 5
d. c., 6 m., 9 d. c., 7 m., 7 d. c., 4 m., 5 d. c.,
3 m., 3 d. c., 1 m.
Back—Ch. 125 sts., skip 5 sts., 1 d. c. in 6th
st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st.,
repeat from * to end of row, having 40 m.,
ch. 3, turn.
Second Row—3 d. c., * ch. 3, skip 2 sts.,
1 t. c., ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 4 d. c. on next 4
sts., 2 m., 3 d. c., repeat from * to end of
row, ch. 3, turn, having 4 d. c. between m.
stripe.
Third Row—3 d. c., * ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 3 s.
c. on next 3 sts., ch. 3, 4 d. c., on 4 d. c., 2 m.,
3 d. c., repeat from * to end of row, ch. 3,
turn.
Fourth Row—3 d. c., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 5 s.
c. on next 5 sts., ch. 2, 4 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c.,
repeat from * to end of row, ch. 3, turn.
Fifth Row—3 d. c., * ch. 3, skip 3 sts., 3 s.
c., ch. 3, 4 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., repeat from
* to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Sixth Row—Same as second row, having
14 d. c. stripes with 13 m. stripes between.
Repeat this pattern from 2d to 5th
row for 34 rows (10 inches); this is waistline.
Belt—Ch. 3, * 3 d. c., 2 m. with 1 ch.
between, repeat from * to end of row, work
1 ch. between each m.; this narrows waistline;
work 11 rows (4 inches).
Work 40 m. with 2 ch. between, work
20 rows (6 inches).
Chain 95 sts. for sleeve, work 31 m. on
chain, work across back, with separate yarn,
ch. 95 sts. for other sleeve, fasten with slip
st. to row below, work 31 m. on this ch.
work 13 rows across back and sleeves.
Fourteenth Row—Work 41 m., 3 d. c., *
ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 1 t. c., ch. 3, skip 2 sts.,
4 d. c., repeat from * 2 more times, having
7 d. c. in center, repeat same pattern 3 times
for other half of back, work 41 m. to end
of row.
Fifteenth Row—41 m., 3 d. c., * ch. 3,
skip 2 sts., 3 s. c., ch. 3, skip 2 sts., 4 d. c.,
repeat from *, work 7 d. c. in center and
other half the same pattern, 41 m. to end
of row.
Sixteenth Row—41 m., 3 d. c., * 2 ch.,
5 s. c., 2 ch., 4 d. c., repeat from * 5 times,
with 7 d. c. in center, work 41 m. to end
of row.
Seventeenth Row—Same as 15th row.
Eighteenth Row—Same as 14th row.
Nineteenth Row—Work 41 m., 4 d. c.,
ch. 3, 3 s. c., ch. 3, 4 d. c., continue with
stripe pattern down front at neck, work 35
d. c. on back of neck, work other side same
pattern, 41 m. to end of row, this is half
of sleeve; then work over shoulder and
sleeve down right side of front.
Twentieth Row—Work 41 m. before starting
the 4 d. c. of stripe pattern, increase
1 m. every other row for 7 times, work
down 13 rows, chain 45 for front, turn, skip
4 sts., 1 d. c. in every st., then work stripe
pattern and 48 m. to end of row.
29Next Row—Work 48 m., continue with
same pattern down front as on border, having
6 mesh stripes with 6 d. c. stripes between;
when there are 36 rows altogether
for sleeve, leave 31 m. for sleeve, work 17
m. with stripe pattern down front for 18
rows, work left side down front, start at
neck 4 d. c., ch. 2, 5 s. c., ch. 2, 4 d. c.,
with stripe pattern for 35 rows, increase 1
m. every other row from shoulder for 7
times same as right side, then work down
straight, join fronts together, work 8 more
rows. Then work belt same as back with
1 ch. between each m., work 11 rows—start
border with 2 m., work same stripes as on
back, having 18 mesh stripes with 18 d. c.
stripes between, work same length as back
34 rows (10 inches), last row finish with
56 m.
On sleeves, work same pattern, having
12 m. stripes with 12 d. c. stripes between,
work 14 rows, finish last row with 1 d. c. in
every stitch—sew neatly together.
Sew 6 buttons on left front, use mesh
for buttonhole.
Ladies’ Sport Sweater No. 857 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Back chain 120, turn, work 41 m. over
the ch., having 2 ch. between each m. and
4 d. c. for each block; work 3 rows of m.
Fourth Row—8 m., 4 d. c., 11 m., 4 d. c.,
11 m., 4 d. c., 8 m., ch. 5, turn.
Fifth Row—6 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 7
m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 7 m., 7 d. c., 1 m.,
7 d. c., 6 m., ch. 5, turn.
31
Model No. 857
Sixth Row—5 m., 22 d. c., 5 m., 22 d. c., 5
m., 22 d. c., 5 m., ch. 5, turn.
Seventh Row—5 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c.,
5 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 5 m., 10 d. c.,
1 m., 10 d. c., 5 m., ch. 5, turn.
Eighth Row—6 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1
m., 4 d. c., 7 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m.,
4 d. c., 7 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
6 m., ch. 5, turn.
Ninth Row—Same as seventh row.
Tenth Row—Same as sixth row.
Eleventh Row—Same as fifth row.
Then work 27 rows of m., 41 m. to each
row. Work 8 more rows of m. with a finer
needle for belt, to narrow waistline. Work
14 rows of m. with No. 3 hook, then decrease
1 m. at each side for 5 times, having
31 m. to row, work 8 rows with 31 m. to
row.
First Row—Starts shoulder, work 15 m.,
skip 1 m. for V shape at center of back,
work 15 m. for other shoulder, work down
front and other side to correspond.
Second Row—Work 14 m., ch. 5, turn.
Third Row—11 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., skip 1 m.
at neck.
Fourth Row—1 m., 4 d. c., 11 m.
Fifth Row—8 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m.
Sixth Row—3 m., 4 d. c., 9 m.
Seventh Row—7 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
2 m.
Eighth Row—4 m., 4 d. c., 8 m.
Ninth Row—7 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
2 m.
Tenth Row—3 m., 10 d. c., 7 m.
Eleventh Row—8 m., 4 d. c., 4 m.
Twelfth Row—5 m., 7 d. c., 6 m.
Thirteenth Row—6 m., 13 d. c., 3 m.
Fourteenth Row—3 m., 16 d. c., 5 m.
Fifteenth Row—7 m., 7 d. c., 4 m.
Sixteenth Row—Increase 1 m. at neck,
then work 6 more m., making 7 m., 4 d. c.,
6 m.
Seventeenth Row—6 m., 4 d. c., 3 m.,
7 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in last
d. c.
Eighteenth Row—Ch. 5, 1 m. over m., 16
d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 3 m.
Nineteenth Row—2 m., 10 d. c., 1 m.,
4 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c.
Twentieth Row—1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d.
c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 5 m.
Twenty-first Row—5 m., 4 d. c., 2 m.,
10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in last
d. c.
Twenty-second Row—2 m., 16 d. c., 3 m.,
4 d. c., 5 m.
Twenty-third Row—Increase 1 m. at arm,
8 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c.,
increase 1 m. at neck.
Twenty-fourth Row—Work all m., increase
1 m. at arm, having 19 m., work other
front the same, ch. 14, fasten to other side
of front.
First Row—Across front, 12 m., 4 d. c.,
6 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 6 m., 4 d. c.,
12 m.
Second Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first d. c.,
12 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
12 m.
Third Row—9 m., 4 d. c., 5 m., 10 d. c.,
2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 10 d. c.,
5 m., 4 d. c., 9 m.
Fourth Row—8 m., 7 d. c., 4 m., 7 d. c.,
2 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
2 m., 7 d. c., 4 m., 7 d. c., 8 m.
Fifth Row—10 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 13 d. c., 2 m., 4 d. c.,
3 m., 7 d. c., 10 m.
Sixth Row—11 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 2 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 2 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 11 m.
Seventh Row—12 m., 10 d. c., 3 m., 13
d. c., 1 m., 13 d. c., 3 m., 10 d. c., 12 m.
32Eighth Row—12 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
3 m., 7 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c., 3 m.,
4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 12 m.
Ninth Row—15 m., 10 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 10 d. c., 15 m.
Tenth Row—16 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 2 m., 10 d. c., 16 m.
Eleventh Row—16 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 16 m.
Twelfth Row—17 m., 4 d. c., 9 m., 4 d. c.,
17 m.
Thirteenth Row—18 m., 4 d. c., 7 m., 4
d. c., 18 m.
Fourteenth Row—Same as 13th row,
work 6 rows of m., having 45 m. to each
row, then work 8 rows for belt with fine
needle same as back, then work 27 rows of
m., having 45 m. to each row. Then work
pattern of pockets same as back.
First Row—Start with 2 m., * 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 7 m., repeat from * 3 times,
ending row with 2 m.
Second Row—1 m., * 22 d. c., 5 m., repeat
from * 3 times, ending row 1 m.
Third Row—1 m., * 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c.,
5 m., repeat from * 3 times, ending row
1 m.
Fourth Row—2 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 7 m., repeat from * 3 times,
ending row 2 m.
Fifth Row—Same as third row.
Sixth Row—Same as second row.
Seventh Row—Same as first row.
Eighth Row—5 m., * 4 d. c., 11 m., repeat
from * 3 times, ending with 5 m. Then
work 3 rows of m., turn up at 5th row below
the pattern for pockets, with blue join
the lower and top part together, work 2
s. c. sts. in each mesh with 1 ch. between
over the d. c. at both sides of the middle
m. between the pattern, 2 blue stripes between
each pocket, having 7 pockets around
the sweater, with blue work 2 s. c. in each
m. with 1 ch. between at top of pockets.
With blue work 2 s. c. in each m. around
neck and armhole.
Chain 130, work 47 m. over this ch., work
up straight for 42 rows.
Ch. 108 for sleeve, work 36 m. over this
ch., 47 m. across back, ch. 108 for other
sleeve, fasten to row below with slip st.,
work 36 m. over this ch., work 9 more rows.
Tenth Row—48 m., * 10 d. c., 1 m., repeat
from * 5 times more, ending with 48 m.
Eleventh Row—48 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., repeat
from * 10 times more, 4 d. c., 48 m.
Twelfth Row—48 m., 16 d. c., * 1 m., 4
d. c., repeat from * 5 times, 1 m., 16 d. c.,
48 m.
Thirteenth Row—50 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 10
d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 3 m., 4 d.
c., 50 m.
Fourteenth Row—48 m., 10 d. c., 2 m., 4
d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., 10 d. c., 48 m.
Fifteenth Row—48 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 10
d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10 d. c., 1 m., 10
d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 48 m.
Sixteenth Row—48 m., 13 d. c., 1 m.,
4 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 3 m.,
4 d. c., 1 m., 13 d. c., 48 m.
Seventeenth Row—51 m., 4 d. c., 15 m.,
4 d. c., 51 m.; this is half of sleeve.
First Row of Shoulder—48 m., 13 d. c.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., turn.
Second Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first st.,
10 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 48 m.
Third Row—48 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m.
Fourth Row—4 m., 4 d. c., 51 m.
Fifth Row—48 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m.
Sixth Row—1 m., 10 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c.,
48 m.
Seventh Row—48 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m.
Eighth Row—4 m., 4 d. c., 52 m., work
the extra m. over the 13 d. c. of last row
instead of 3 m., work 4 m., this will give
52 m. from end of sleeve, repeat fifth, sixth,
seventh, eighth rows 3 more times; always
increase 1 m. when repeating the eighth
row for 3 times.
Seventeenth Row—Finishes sleeve, skip
36 m.
Work fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth rows
down front 10 more times, increasing only
every other row at under-arm seam for 12
rows, then work straight down same length
as back; this is left front.
33Work right front same, down to sleeve
and 16 rows more, then start point, starting
from side seam.
First Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in last d. c.
Second Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first d. c.,
2 m., 10 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 25 m.
Third Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
4 m.
Fourth Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first d. c.,
6 m., 4 d. c., 28 m.
Fifth Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., 4 d. c., 2 m.
Sixth Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first d. c.,
1 m., 20 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 25 m.
Seventh Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m.
Eighth Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first st.,
4 d. c., 1 m., 20 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c., 25 m.
Ninth Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
2 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.
34Tenth Row—Ch. 5, 1 d. c. in first st.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 20 d. c., 3 m., 4 d. c.,
25 m.
Eleventh Row—25 m., 13 d. c., 1 m., 4
d. c., 2 m., 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., ch. 6, skip 6,
1 m., over last m. of last row; this is for
buttonhole.
Twelfth Row—Same as tenth row; this is
center of point; work the other half of
point the same, only decrease instead of
increasing, then work down straight, same
length as other side. Sew together.
Band—Work 1 d. c. on d. c., 1 d. c. in m.,
1 d. c. on d. c., to end of row, work 15 rows
with small needle to have band tight; at
second row work one buttonhole, again at
eighth row and 13th row, having 3 buttonholes.
Cuff—Work 1 d. c. over d. c., skip the
ch. sts., 1 d. c. over d. c., repeat to end
of row, work 5 more rows of d. c., then
work same pattern.
First Row—* 10 d. c., 1 m., repeat from
* 3 times more.
Second Row—* 4 d. c., 1 m., repeat from
* 7 times more.
Third Row—Same as second row.
Fourth Row—* 1 m., 10 d. c., repeat from
* 3 times more.
Back—Ch. 122 sts., turn, 1 d. c. in 5th
ch. st., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st.,
repeat from * to end of row, having 39 m.
to row.
Second Row—Turn, ch. 5, 1 d. c. on d. c.,
2 d. c. in m., 1 d. c. on d. c., work * 5 m.
by ch. 2, 1 d. c. on d. c., repeat from * for
6 times.
Third Row—2 m., 3 d. c., * 3 m., 3 d. c.,
1 m., 3 d. c., repeat from * 5 times, always
work the 3 d. c. on d. c.
Fourth Row—* 3 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c.,
repeat from * 5 times.
Fifth Row—4 m., 3 d. c., * 5 m., 3 d. c.,
repeat from * 4 times, 4 m.
Sixth Row—Same as fourth row.
Seventh Row—Same as third row.
Eighth Row—Same as second row.
Ninth Row—Same as third row.
Tenth Row—Same as fourth row.
Eleventh Row—Same as fifth row.
Twelfth Row—3 m., 3 d. c., 31 m., 3 d. c.,
3 m.
Thirteenth Row—2 m., 3 d. c., 33 m.,
3 d. c., 2 m.
Fourteenth Row—1 m., 3 d. c., 35 m.,
3 d. c., 1 m.
Fifteenth Row—3 d. c., 37 m., 3 d. c.
Sixteenth Row—Same as 14th row.
Seventeenth Row—Same as 13th row.
Eighteenth Row—Same as 12th row.
Nineteenth Row—Same as 11th row.
Twentieth Row—Same as 12th row.
Twenty-first Row—Same as 13th row.
Twenty-second Row—Same as 14th row.
Belt—Twenty-third Row—1 d. c. on d. c.,
1 d. c. in m., repeat from * to end of row,
work 4 more rows of d. c. on every d. c.
of previous row (2 inches).
35Twenty-eighth Row—Work 39 m., making
14 rows; on 43d row decrease 1 st. on each
side for the next 5 rows, having 28 m. across
the back, work 9 rows.
Sixtieth Row—14 m., 3 d. c., 14 m.
Sixty-first Row—13 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 3
d. c., 13 m.
Sixty-second Row—13 m., 3 d. c., 3 m.,
3 d. c., 13 m., increase 1 m. at both sides
of row.
Sixty-third Row—12 m., 3 d. c., 5 m.,
3 d. c., 12 m.
*Sixty-fourth Row—Work 13 m. for shoulder.
Sixty-fifth Row—Ch. 3, 3 d. c., 1 d. c.
on d. c., 12 m., repeat to end of row.
*Sixty-sixth Row—11 m., 3 d. c., 11 m.
Sixty-seventh Row—2 m., 3 d. c., 10 m.
Sixty-eighth Row—9 m., 3 d. c., 3 m.
Sixty-ninth Row—4 m., 3 d. c., 8 m.
Seventieth Row—Same as 68th row.
Seventy-first Row—Same as 67th row.
Seventy-second Row—Same as 66th row.
Seventy-third Row—Same as 65th row.
Repeat from *, increasing 1 m. at 1st arm
seam on the 77th and 80th rows.
Eighty-first Row—15 m., work other side
to correspond.
Eighty-second Row—14 m., 3 d. c., ch. 16,
1 d. c. on d. c. of other front, 3 d. c., 14 m.
Eighty-third Row—15 m., 3 d. c. in 1st 4
ch., 4 m. on ch., 3 d. c. in ch., 15 m.
Eighty-fourth Row—15 m., 3 d. c., 1 m.,
3 d. c., 2 m., 3 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c., 15 m.,
increase 1 m. at each end of row, also at
next row.
Eighty-fifth Row—17 m., 3 d. c., 1 m.,
6 d. c., 1 m., 3 d. c., 17 m.
Eighty-sixth Row—18 m., 3 d. c., 3 m.
over the 6 d. c., 18 m.
Eighty-seventh Row—19 m., 3 d. c., 1 m.,
3 d. c., 19 m.
Eighty-eighth Row—20 m., 3 d. c., 20 m.
Eighty-ninth Row—41 m. across the front,
work 12 rows more to belt. Work belt
same as back.
Work front below belt same as back,
having 41 m. in row, 1 m. more at each
seam.
Sew side seams together about 5 inches
above beltline.
Around armhole work 4 d. c., 2 m., 4 d. c.
alternately.
Second Row—1 m. over 1 d. c., 6 d. c.
in 2 m. all around.
9 large skeins Wistaria Utopia Shetland Floss.
½ small skein Dark Wistaria Shetland
Floss. 1 Crochet Hook No. 4.
Back—Ch. 125 sts.
First Row—Skip 5, ch. 3, 1 d. c. in every
st., repeat to end of row, ch. 5, turn.
Second Row—* Skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in
next st., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 7 d. c. in next
st., ch. 2, repeat from * to end of row.
Third Row—Same as second row.
Fourth Row—Ch. 3, * 6 d. c. in next 6
sts., ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st.,
ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 1 d. c. in next st., repeat
from * to end of row.
Fifth Row—Same as fourth row.
Repeat these last four rows (from 2 to 5)
for 24 rows, having 12 blocks from start
(10 inches).
Next Row—Ch. 3, turn, 6 d. c. on 6 d. c.,
* 1 d. c. in m., 1 d. c. on d. c., 1 d. c. in m.,
7 d. c. on 7 d. c., repeat from * to end of
row; this narrows waistline.
Next Row—Ch. 5, turn, skip 2 sts., 2 d. c.
on d. c., * ch. 2, skip 2 sts., 2 d. c. on d. c.,
repeat from * to end of row.
Next Row—Ch. 5, turn, 2 d. c. in m., *
ch. 2, 2 d. c. in m., repeat from * to end
of row.
36Continue this pattern for 23 rows (9
inches).
For shaped sleeve ch. 50 sts., turn, skip
5 sts., 2 d. c. on next 2 sts., ch. 2, skip 2
sts., 2 d. c. on next 2 sts., work pattern
across back. With separate yarn ch. 49 sts.,
fasten with slip st. to row below, work pattern
to end of ch., ch. 20 sts., turn, skip
5 sts., start pattern with 2 d. c., continue
pattern across back to other side of sleeve,
ch. 20 sts. With separate yarn fasten to
row, work pattern to end of ch., increase
in same way for 2 more times, having 26
m. with 2 d. c. between for each sleeve,
then work 17 rows (6 inches) for half of
sleeve.
Next Row—Work 34 m. with 2 d. c.
between, leave 7 m. with 2 d. c. between
for back of neck. On other 35 m. work
over shoulder, sleeve and down front after
the following directions, and other side to
correspond. Work 2 rows over shoulder,
on third row increase 1 m. at neck every
other row for 10 times.
On 29th row from start of sleeve at bottom
skip 5 m. with 2 d. c. between at each
end of sleeve for 3 times to shape same as
other side.
Work pattern down front for 9 inches,
same length as back, work 1 row of d. c.
in every st., then work border in blocks
same length as back, start pattern at side
seam with 2 m. to match back blocks, finish
last row with 1 d. c. in every st.
Collar—Ch. 35, turn, skip 4 sts.
Next Row—Work 5 blocks alternately
same pattern as border for 64 inches. Sew
collar to sweater, leave a 2-inch opening
for belt above border at waistline.
Cuffs—Work 2 d. c. in first 6 m., 1 d. c.
in next 12 m., 2 d. c. in last 6 m., work
1 d. c. on each d. c. for 4 more rows, then
work block pattern for 8 rows; this gives
4 blocks, last row 1 d. c. on each st.
Belt—Ch. 17 sts., work 2 blocks alternately
for 60 inches in length, on each end of
belt; with dark wistaria work 4 rows of
d. c., decrease at each side 1 st. every row
until there are 4 d. c. left.
For Picot Edge—With dark wistaria work
around collar, cuffs and belt the following
pattern: work 1 s. c. in 1st st., * ch. 2,
skip 2 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., ch. 3, 1 s. c.
in 1st ch., skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in next st.,
repeat from * all around.
5 skeins Yellow Utopia Shetland
Floss. 1 small skein Black Utopia
Shetland Floss. 1 Crochet
Hook No. 3.
Back—Ch. 135 sts., turn, skip 4
sts., 1 d. c. in every st.
Second Row—With black 1 s. c.
in every st.
Repeat these two rows alternately
for 4 times, last row 1 d. c. in
every st. with yellow.
Tenth Row—Ch. 5, skip 2 sts.,
1 d. c. in next st., * ch. 2, skip 2
sts., 1 d. c. in next st., repeat from
* to end of row, having 45 m.
Eleventh Row—6 m., * 4 d. c.,
1 m., 4 d. c., 7 m., repeat from * to
end of row.
Twelfth Row—5 m., 7 d. c., 1
m., 7 d. c., 5 m., repeat from to
end of row.
Thirteenth Row—7 m., * 4 d. c.,
9 m., 4 d. c., 9 m., repeat from *
to end of row.
Fourteenth Row—5 m., * 7 d. c.,
1 m., 7 d. c., 5 m., repeat from *
to end of row.
37Fifteenth Row—6 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d.
c., 7 m., repeat from * to end of row.
Sixteenth Row—All m.
Seventeenth Row—1 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4
d. c., 7 m., repeat from * to end of row.
Work the same pattern from 12th to 16th
row, work pattern once more, start from
11th row to 16th row, work 36 rows m.,
at 37th row decrease 1 m. every 5th row
at both sides 4 times, work 2 more rows.
Work 12 m., skip 13 m. for back of neck, on
other 12 m. work over shoulder and front,
decrease 1 m. at neck every other row
for 4 times, having 8 m., then increase 1
m. every other row for 4 times, having 12
m., work other shoulder the same way. Ch.
40 sts., join to other front, break off yarn,
work 3 rows of m., having 37 altogether.
Next row start pattern, work 7 m., *
4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 7 d. c., repeat from
*, having pattern 3 times altogether.
Next Row—6 m., * 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
5 m., repeat from * to end of row.
Next Row—8 m., * 4 d. c., 9 m., repeat
from * to end of row.
Next Row—6 m., * 7 d. c., 1 m., 7 d. c.,
5 m., repeat from * to end of row.
Next Row—Increase 1 m. at both sides
every fourth row, 8 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m.,
4 d. c., 7 m., repeat from * to end of row.
Next Row—M.
Next Row—13 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c.,
7 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., having pattern
twice; then work pattern once more in center,
keep increasing at both sides every
fourth row, until there are 55 m., work
side seam same length as back, then start
with border, having pattern 6 times, start
with 1 m., * 4 d. c., 1 m., 4 d. c., 7 m., repeat
from *, continue next rows same as back,
finish off with d. c. and black s. c. rows.
Collar—Work 1 s. c. in every m. and
1 s. c. on d. c. all around.
Next Row—1 d. c. in every st. for 3 rows,
at fourth row increase 1 st. every 8th st. all
around, work 1 row with black, 1 s. c. in
every st., next row with yellow, 1 d. c. in
every st., increase 1 st. every 8th st. all
around.
Next Row—With black 1 s. c. in every
st.
Next Row—With yellow 1 d. c. in every
st.
Next Row—With black 1 s. c. in every
st., finish with yellow 1 d. c. in every st.
Belt—Ch. 25 sts., skip 5 sts., 1 d. c. in
next st., work 3 rows of m., 7 altogether,
work pattern as described on border with
3 rows of m. between alternately until belt
measures 60 inches, work 1 row of s. c.,
2 sts. in each m. around belt.
Around arm work 2 d. c. sts. in every
m. all around opening; with black 1 s. c.
in every st., then 1 d. c. with yellow in
every st.
Crochet 12 black buttons, 6 on each side
of seam.
Sew seam together to arm opening, having
pattern and rows even.
Utopia Model No. 702—The Miami Slip-on — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
On No. 11 needles cast on 32 sts., work
pattern for flounce as follows: (a) Knit the
first row, p. the second, k. third, p. fourth,
k. fifth and sixth, p. seventh, k. eighth, p.
ninth and k. tenth. This forms two patterns,
one of 5 purled ribs and the other of 5 plain.
Continue (a) until there are 60 patterns in
all and bind off. Sew up. With No. 8
needles and seam for center back pick up 38
sts. at one end of 15 patterns on each side
of seam, 76 sts. in all for the back. (b)
Knit across line and purl back. Continue
(b) for 2 inches, then add 1 st. each end
every inch for 6 inches. Work (b) for 1
in. more and then to form back of armhole
decrease 1 st. every 2d row, each end,
for 6 times, leaving 76 sts. on needle. Knit
(b) for 4 ins. without decreasing. K. 25
sts. and put on safety pin for right shoulder.
Bind off 26 sts. for neck. (c) K. remaining
25 sts., purl back to within 6 sts. of
neck end, k. these 6 sts. very loosely to
form border. Continue (c), adding 1 st. at
neck end each row between plain part and
border, for 6 border ribs. Work (c) without
adding for 20 more rows (which is 10
border ribs). Then to form front of armhole
add 1 st. each row on opposite end of
needle for 6 times, also twice add 1 st. at
neck end every other border rib. Continue
(c), adding 1 st. each border rib at neck
end for 8 border ribs. Put on safety pin.
Return to other shoulder, work as before,
and when same as left side add 12 sts. and
put all on one needle. Work (c), being
sure to k. 6 border sts. on each side and
also the 12 sts. in center until there are
3 ribs. Then work as in (b). Continue until
front measures same as back. Bind off
and attach to front flounce with smooth
purled side for right side.
38Pick up sts. at back of neck to form
border, k. 2 ribs and bind off.
For sleeves pick up sts. for 5½ ins. down
the back (from point where sts. were decreased)
and 6½ ins. on front to point
where sts. were added—62 sts. in all. Work
(b) for 2½ ins., decrease 1 st. at each end.
Then decrease, as before, every 1½ ins. for
3 times, leaving 54 sts. K. (b) until work
measures 11½ ins. from shoulder, then decrease
every m. for 8 ins. K. back and
forth for 2 ribs without purling, and bind
off.
Collar—On No. 10 needles cast on 16 sts.
(d) K. first row, p. second, k. third and
fourth, p. fifth and k. sixth. This forms two
patterns similar to (a) but with three purled
ribs and three plain. Work until there are
78 patterns. Bind off. Attach to sweater
with seam at center back.
Cuffs—On No. 10 needles cast on 12 sts.
Work (d) once (2 patterns), then add 1 st.
39each row at 1 end only until 22 sts. in all.
Decrease same as increased and make two
more patterns. Bind off. Attach to sweater
with slip stitch, having cuff seam at sleeve
seam.
Outline flounce, collar and cuffs with slip
stitch.
Belt—On No. 8 needles cast on 15 sts.
K. for 60 ins. and bind off. Crochet balls.
With double yarn ch. 3, join and make 6
s. c. in ring. Second round 2 s. c. in each
st. Increase in every other st. until there
are 15 sts., work 8 rounds even, decrease as
increased to about 5 sts., fill ball with cotton,
draw up opening, and fasten off.
Sport Blouse Sweater No. 701 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 701
3 balls Utopia Shetland (colored). 1 skein
White Utopia Shetland. 1 pair No. 8
Bone Needles. 1 pair No. 5 Bone Needles.
Cast on 60 sts. on No. 5 needles. Knit
3 sts., purl 3 sts., for 3 inches. Then on
larger needles knit across one row, turn,
and purl back second row, knit the third
and fourth rows, purl the fifth and knit the
sixth. This forms the 2 patterns, one of
3 purled ridges and one of 3 plain ridges.
Repeat this until there are 6 patterns, then
add 1 st. each end every third row. (The
extra sts. should always be added after slipping
the first stitch on the needle and before
knitting the last stitch on the needle.)
Continue adding stitches for 10 patterns.
There should now be 80 sts. on the needle.
Make 10 more patterns and add 65 sts. on
each end for sleeves (210 sts. altogether
on needle). Make another 10 patterns.
Knit 90 sts. and put on safety pin, bind off
30 sts. for the neck, knit the remaining 90
sts. Make 2 patterns for the shoulder, then
9 more, adding 1 st. at neck end only on
every pattern. Bind off 65 sts. of the sleeve.
Knit 5 patterns, adding 1 st. at neck end
every other row; there should now be 45 sts.
on needle. Put these on safety pin. Break off
wool and attach to right shoulder and make
this side to correspond with left. When
completed slip all stitches on one needle,
knit 4 patterns, then decrease (knitting 2
sts. together) 1 st. on each end every third
row for 14 patterns. On the 14th pattern
decrease 2 more sts. in center of line. There
are now 60 sts. on needle. Knit 6 patterns.
Then with smaller needles purl 3 sts. k. 3
sts., for three inches and bind off loosely.
For Cuffs—Pick up stitches at end of
sleeves (35 sts.) with large needles. Knit
6 patterns and bind off. Sew up sides and
sleeves.
Pick up stitches around the neck loosely
with white floss and large needles. Knit 8
ridges (twice back and forth), then purl
8 on right side. Make collar roll. Bind off
loosely. If white stitches show where collar
is joined, crochet over them with the
colored wool.
On No. 5½ needles cast on 80 sts., k.
plain for 10 ribs, then k. across line and
purl back. Continue for 6 ins. Decrease 4
sts. by knitting first 2 sts. together and last
2 sts. together, also twice in center of line.
K and p. for 4½ ins. more. K. 12 sts. on
both ends of needles each time (instead of
purling) to form border. When there are 2
41ribs bind off 6 sts. on each end. Continue
to k. and p. as before, but always k. the
first and last 6 sts. very loosely. Work
until there are 22 ribs in the border. K. 22
sts. and put on pin. Bind off 20 sts. for
the neck. K. 22 sts. K. and p. these 22
sts., always knitting border at armhole only.
When there are 20 ribs in border add 1 st.
at neck end once. K. and p. for 4 more
border ribs, cast on 6 sts., k. these with
other 6 sts. for 3 ribs, then k. and p. without
making border. Continue until work measures
same as back. Put on pin. Return to
other side and make to correspond. Put
these sts. on pin and make panel as follows:
On No. 5½ needles cast on 33 sts.,
k. the first row, p. the second, on the third
row k. the first st., k. 2 together across
row, fourth row k. first st., knit a st. on
the thread between the sts., repeat across
the row. Repeat these 4 rows 22 times, or
until work measures 12 ins. With sts. still
on needle and at bottom of sweater add sts.
from pins on both sides. K. plain for 9 ribs
and bind off. Stitch in panel with top 8½
ins. from shoulder. Then pick up sts.
around neck with No. 4 needles, 2 sides at
a time. K. 2 ribs and bind off and seam.
Belt—On No. 4 needles cast on 16 sts.,
k. 25 ins. and make 2 buttonholes as follows:
K. 3 sts., bind off 3 sts., k. 4 sts., bind off
3 sts., k. 3 sts., turn, k. 3 sts., cast on 3 sts.,
k. 4 sts., cast on 3 sts., k. 3 sts., k. 2 ribs
and bind off. Attach other end of belt to
sweater at panel and waistline; finish with
2 crocheted covered buttons.
First Row—Purl 2, knit 6, purl 2, knit 6,
to end of row.
Second Row—Knit 2, purl 6, knit 2, purl
6, to end of row.
Third, Fifth, Seventh and Ninth Rows—Same
as first row.
Fourth, Sixth and Eighth Rows—Same
as second row.
Tenth Row—Knit straight across.
This completes 1 block of pattern.
Block 2 alternates the position of the
squares.
First Row—Knit 4, purl 2, knit 6, purl 2,
knit 6, purl 2, to end.
Second Row—Purl 4, knit 2, purl 6, knit
2, purl 6, knit 2, to end.
Third, Fifth, Seventh and Ninth Rows—Same
as first row.
Fourth, Sixth and Eighth Rows—Same as
second row.
Tenth Row—Knit straight across.
Knit 6 blocks, alternating as above.
With the steel needles knit 2, purl 2,
for 2½ inches.
With large needles knit 5 blocks of the
pattern. Add 74 stitches on each end for
sleeves and continue knitting these added
stitches as in the pattern for 3 blocks and
5 rows.
42Knit 111 stitches, as in pattern, bind off
32 stitches for the neck, knit as pattern
111 stitches.
Front—Continue knitting the 111 sts. to
finish the block. Alternate and knit 1 block.
Add 1 st. every other row (4 sts. to a
block) to the neck, knit according to pattern
3 blocks. Bind off 74 sts. for sleeve.
Knit 1 more block.
Knit the other side of the front the same
and, having added 16 sts. to each side, join
and continue straight across front. Continue
the same as the back. Bind off
loosely.
Cuff—On steel needles pick up 64 sts.
at bottom of sleeve. Knit 2, purl 2, for
2 inches. With large needles knit as pattern
1 block and then add 3 rows of angora.
Sew up under arm seams loosely.
Cast 90 sts. on steel needles and knit 5
rows for neck bands. Make 2 of these and
sew under neck fronts to make a tight
finish.
Collar—Cast on steel needles 100 sts.
Knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. With large
needles knit 2 blocks as above and add 4
rows of angora.
Tie—With crochet hook make chain about
30 inches and make a single crochet in
each chain, fasten a small ball crocheted
from angora on each end and tack in the
middle of the back of the collar.
7 skeins Sunset Utopia Shetland Floss. A
few threads Green, Blue and Red for
Darning Utopia Germantown. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 3. 1 pair of
Steel Needles, No. 8. 1 Crochet Hook,
No. 2.
Cast on 86 sts., k. 1 row.
First Row—K. 3, p. 3, repeat to end of
row, ending row k. 3.
Second Row—P. 3, k. 3, repeat to end
of row, ending row p. 3.
Third Row—K. 3, p. 3, repeat to end of
row, ending row k. 3.
Fourth Row—K. 1 row.
Fifth Row—P. 1 row.
Sixth Row—K. 1 row.
Seventh Row—P. 3, k. 3, repeat to end
of row, ending row p. 3.
Eighth Row—K. 3, p. 3, repeat to end of
row, ending row k. 3.
Ninth Row—P. 3, k. 3, repeat to end of
row, ending row p. 3.
Tenth Row—K. 1 row.
Eleventh Row—P. 1 row.
Twelfth Row—K. 1 row.
Repeat these 12 rows alternately for 8
inches; this is waistline.
For Belt—With steel needles k. 2, p. 2,
for 3 inches. With ivory needles k. in ridges
for 4 inches. On separate needle k. 30 sts.,
bind off 26 sts. and on other 30 sts. k. in
ridges, decrease 1 st. at front side every
4th row for 5 times, having 25 sts. on
needle, k. in ridges for 11 inches, k. other
side to correspond. K. the 25 sts. Cast on
30 sts. for back of neck. K. the other 25
43sts. on the same needle. K. back in ridges
for 12 inches. With steel needles for belt
cast on 20 sts. on each end of needle, then
k. 2, purl 2, for 3 inches, bind off 20 sts.
for side of belt, k. 80 sts. and bind off 20
sts. on other end, continue pattern (1–12
row) same as front for 8 inches. With
crochet hook crochet 1 s. c. all around
sweater, starting at belt line, crochet down
sides and lower edge for front and back,
the following pattern, 1 s. c., ch. 4, skip 1 st.,
1 d. c. in next st., ch. 1, skip 1 st., 1 d. c.,
repeat all around for 3 rows, increasing
1 st. at each corner, crocheting 2 d. c. with
1 ch. between for 3 times, 4th row, 1 s. c.
in every st.
Darning—Through the center of strap
start 2½ inches below neck of back with
French knot. With green pick up one
thread of ridge, skip 1 ridge, pick up thread,
continue down 2½ inches from belt line,
finish with French knot, one row of blue
at each side of green, then one row with red
on outside of blue, making each row 2
ridges shorter and ending with French knot.
At center of front darn same pattern, leaving
2 ridges from belt; 4 ridges apart repeat
same pattern on each side, leaving 4 ridges
from belt. Around lower part of sweater
(front and back) darn over first row 1 s. c.
with red, then 1 row with blue through
holes, then 1 row with green, 1 row with
blue, 1 row with red over s. c.
Ladies’ Coat Sweater with Black Trimming, No. 841 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Size 40
Model No. 841
12 balls Turquoise Utopia Alpaca Wool.
½ ball Black Utopia Shetland Floss. 1
skein Black Utopia Germantown. 1 pair
of Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4. 1
Crochet Hook.
Back—Cast on 110 sts., k. in ridges for
7 inches.
First Row—Slip 1 st., p. 3, k. 15, * p. 5,
k. 15, repeat from * to end of row, ending
row k. 6, always slip 1st st.
Second Row—P. 4, * k. 3, p. 1, k. 3, p. 13,
k. 3, p. 1, k. 3, p. 13, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row k. 3, p. 1., k. 1.
Third Row—K. 2, p. 3, * k. 11, p. 3, k. 3,
p. 3, k. 11, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, repeat from * to
end of row, ending row k. 4.
Fourth Row—P. 2, * k. 3, p. 5, k. 3, p. 9,
k. 3, p. 5, k. 3, p. 9, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row p. 3, k. 1.
Fifth Row—K. 4, * p. 3, k. 7, p. 3, k. 7,
p. 3, k. 7, repeat from * to end of row,
ending row p. 3, k. 2.
Sixth Row—K. 3, * p. 9, k. 3, p. 5, k. 3,
p. 9, k. 3, p. 5, k. 3, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row p. 5, k. 1.
Seventh Row—K. 6, * p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 11,
p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 11, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row p. 2, k. 1.
Eighth Row—K. 1, p. 13, * k. 3, p. 1, k. 3,
p. 13, k. 3, p. 1, k. 3, p. 13, repeat from * to
end of row, ending row p. 7, k. 1.
Ninth Row—K. 8, * p. 5, k. 15, p. 5, k. 15,
repeat from * to end of row, ending row
k. 16.
Tenth Row—K. 1, * p. 13, k. 3, p. 1, k. 3,
p. 13, k. 3, p. 1, k. 3, repeat from *, ending
row p. 7, k. 1.
Eleventh Row—K. 6, * p. 3, k. 3, p. 3,
k. 11, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 11, repeat from * to
end of row, ending row p. 2, k. 1.
Twelfth Row—K. 3, * p. 9, k. 3, p. 5, k. 3,
p. 9, k. 3, p. 5, k. 3, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row p. 5, k. 1.
44Thirteenth Row—K. 14, * p. 3, k. 7, p. 3,
k. 7, p. 3, k. 7, repeat from * to end of row,
ending row p. 3, k. 2.
Fourteenth Row—P. 2, * k. 3, p. 5, k. 3,
p. 9, k. 3, p. 5, k. 3, p. 9, repeat from * to end
of row, ending row p. 3, k. 1.
Fifteenth Row—K. 2, p. 3, k. 11, * p. 3,
k. 3, p. 3, k. 11, repeat from * to end of
row, ending row k. 4.
Sixteenth Row—P. 4, * k. 3, p. 1, k. 3,
p. 13, k. 3, p. 1, k. 3, p. 13, repeat from * to
end of row, ending row p. 1, k. 1.
Seventeenth Row—P. 3, * k. 15, p. 5, k. 15,
p. 5, k. 15, p. 5, repeat from * to end of
row, ending row k. 6.
This is pattern for squares; repeat from
2d row to 17th row until there are 3 full
squares (3½ inches), then decrease 1 st. at
each end of needle every 6th row for 5
times until there are 100 sts. on needle,
continue with pattern until there are 3 more
full squares (3½ inches), then k. in ridges
for 3 inches. Cast on 70 sts. for sleeves,
k. across back, cast on 70 sts. for other
sleeve, having 240 sts. on needle, k. in
ridges for 6 inches. On separate needle
k. 110 sts., bind off 20 sts. for back of neck
and on other 110 sts. k. front and sleeve
after the following directions: increase 1
st. every other row at front of neck for 10
times, then increase 5 times more every
3d row. Cast on 15 sts. for front lap, having
140 sts. on needle, k. until sleeve measures
6 inches from shoulder (12 inches altogether
from where sleeve started), bind
off 70 sts. for sleeve; on other 70 sts. k.
front same length as back (3 inches), continue
with pattern of squares (1st-17th row)
down front, leaving 9 sts. plain for buttonholes
and buttons on both sides, making
1st buttonhole 6½ inches from where lap
of front starts, next buttonhole after the
14th ridge, then 1 more, three altogether.
K. 6 full squares same as back, keeping pattern
at side to match back. K. in ridges
for 7 inches, bind off loosely, k. other side
to correspond.
Collar—With black cast on 30 sts., k. in
ridges for 25 inches, bind off 20 sts., on
other 10 sts. k. down front to 1st buttonhole,
other side same, sew neatly to sweater
to corner of lap and down front.
Belt—Cast on 3 sts., increase 1 st. at each
end of needle until there are 10 sts., k. in
ridges for 46 inches, decrease 1 st. on each
end of needle until there are 3 sts. left,
bind off.
Cuff—Pick up 64 sts. on right side, k. 23
sts., k. 2 sts. together for 7 times, k. 24
sts., having 54 sts. on needle.
First Row—* P. 5, k. 13, p. 5, k. 13, repeat
from * to end of row, continue same pattern
as described before (1st-17th row) until
there are 2 full squares, decreasing 1 st. at
each end of needle every 10th row for 2
times, having 50 sts. on needle, bind off
loosely, crochet 1 row of s. c. with black
at edge of cuff, sew up seam. With black
Germantown and darning needle make ch.
sts. on the purling of squares, making a
loop, insert needle, bring up to center of
loop, make another loop, insert needle, bring
up to center of loop, and repeat these same
sts. over the whole pattern of squares; make
3 crochet buttons with black center.
Slip-over Sweater with Panel-Front and Back, No. 842 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
7 skeins White Utopia Shetland Floss. 2
skeins Blue Utopia Shetland Floss. 1 pair
of Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4. 1
Crochet Hook, No. 5.
Back—Cast on 120 sts. (18 inches), k. in
ridges for 9 inches; this is waistline. K. 40
sts., k. 2 sts. together for 20 times, k. 40 sts.,
having 100 sts. on needle.
Belt—First Row—* K. 4, p. 4, repeat from * to
end of row.
Second Row—* P. 4, k. 4, repeat from * to
end of row.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until
there are 3 inches, k. in ridges for 6 more
inches. Cast on 100 sts. (16 inches) for
sleeve, k. across back, cast on 100 sts. for
other sleeve, having 300 sts. on needle, k.
in ridges for 6½ inches, k. 135 sts., bind off
30 sts. for back of neck, k. the other 135
sts. Next row—K. the 135 sts., cast on 70
sts. for front of neck, k. the other 135 sts.,
having 340 sts. on needle, k. 6½ inches more
for other half of sleeve, bind off 100 sts.
on each end of needle, having 140 sts. to be
knit same as back, including belt line, and
9 more inches below waistline so that side
seam measures same length as back. With
blue crochet 70 ch., skip 4 sts., 1 d. c. in
every st. for 3 rows, ch. 6, skip 3 sts., 1 s. c.
in next st., * ch. 5, skip 3 sts., 1 s. c. in
next st., repeat from * to end of row.
Second Row—Ch. 6, 1 s. c. in center of
5 ch., * ch. 5, 1 s. c. in center of next 5 ch.,
repeat from * to end of row.
Continue this pattern for 21 inches up to
45shoulder, crochet 5 spaces for 8 rows, leave
7 spaces for back of neck, on other 5 spaces
crochet 8 rows for other shoulder, ch. 29,
join to other side, having 17 spaces same
as back, crochet down front for 21 inches,
* ch. 3, 1 s. c. in space, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in
space, repeat from * to end of row.
Next Row—Ch. 3, 1 d. c. in every st. for
3 rows same as back, crochet 1 row of d. c.
on both sides of panel, 2 d. c. in space and
1 d. c. in the following s. c. st.
Collar—With blue 1 d. c. in every st.
around neck of white sweater.
Second Row—* 1 d. c. in 1st 3 sts.,
then increase 2 d. c. in next, repeat from *
all around.
Third Row—1 d. c. in every st. all around.
Fourth Row—1 d. c. in every st. around
front, increase at back of collar every 6th
st., turn over, tack at shoulder.
Cuffs—With blue 1 s. c. in every st. all
around.
Second Row—1 d. c. in every st. all
around.
Third Row—Leave 3 inches from seam
without cuff, crochet same pattern of spaces
for 3 inches.
To form point at each side of cuff—1 s. c.
in 1st st., ch. 5, 1 s. c. in next space, ch. 5,
1 s. c. in next space, repeat until there are
3 spaces.
Second Row—Slip the first 3 ch. sts., ch.
5, 1 s. c. in center of next loop, ch. 5, 1 s. c.
in center of next loop.
Third Row—Turn, slip the first 3 ch. sts.,
ch. 5, 1 s. c. in center of next space.
Work 2 rows d. c. all around cuff.
Cord—Ch. for 60 inches, crochet 1 s. c.
in every st. for 2 rows, slip through spaces
as desired, make 4 balls, 2 at each end of
cord, ch. 3, skip 1 st., 8 s. c. in next st.
Next Row—* 1 s. c. in first st., 2 s. c.
in next st., repeat from * 4 rows plain, decrease,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in next st. all
around, stuff with wadding, close by decreasing.
11 skeins Red Utopia Shetland Floss. 3
skeins Blue Utopia Shetland Floss. 1
pair of Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4.
1 pair of Steel Needles, No. 6. 1 Crochet
Hook, No. 2.
Back—Cast on 3 sts., k. in ridges, increase
1 st. every other row at front side until
there are 40 sts. on needle, increase 1 st.
every row until there are 50 sts. on needle,
k. other point to correspond. Cast on 20
sts., slip the 50 sts. of other point on one
needle, having 120 sts. altogether. K. in
ridges for 8 inches.
46Next Row—Start opening for belt, k. the
first 20 sts. for 4 ridges, break off yarn,
slip these 20 sts. on separate needle, k. the
next 20 sts. for 4 ridges, break off yarn,
slip these 20 sts. to the first 20 sts., k. the
next 40 sts. for 4 ridges, break off yarn, slip
these to the other sts., k. the next 20 sts.
for 4 ridges, break off yarn, slip sts. on to
the other needle, then k. the last 20 sts. for
4 ridges, having 4 spaces, slip all sts. on
one needle. K. in ridges for 8 inches, decrease
1 st. at each end of needle every
8th row for 10 times, having 100 sts. on
needle. Cast on 90 sts. for sleeve, k. across
back, cast on 90 sts. for other sleeve, k.
3 inches. On separate needle k. 95 sts., bind
off 90 sts. on back for yoke, on other 95
sts. k. 6 inches, cast on 20 sts. for front
yoke, increase 1 st. every other row for
10 times towards center front, then increase
1 st. every row for 10 times, bind off 90
sts. for sleeve, having 45 sts. on needle.
Cast on 10 sts. for front yoke, k. other side
of sleeve and front to correspond, slip the
45 sts. to the 55 sts., having 100 sts. on
needle, increase 1 st. at each end of needle
every 8th row for 10 times until there are
120 sts. on needle, k. side seam same length
as back, then k. the four spaces for belt same
way as on back, k. 8 inches. On separate
needle k. 50 sts., bind off 20 sts. for center
front, and on other 50 sts. k. down point,
decrease 1 st. every row at front side for
10 times, then decrease 1 st. every other
row until there are 3 sts. left, bind off. K.
other point to correspond. Sew side seam
together, leaving 8 inches open for lacing.
Yoke with blue. Cast on 20 sts., k. 5
ridges.
Next Row—K. 2 sts., * throw thread over
needle, k. 2 sts. together, repeat from * to
end of row, increasing 1 st. at shoulder seam
every 8th row, k. 5 ridges, repeat the openwork,
k. 5 ridges, repeat these stripes until
there are 4 of each up to neck, continue
this pattern throughout yoke, at lower edge
of yoke, having 3 inches straight from start,
increase 1 st. every other row until there
are 32 sts. on needle, bind off the first 10
sts. at neck of shoulder, then decrease 1 st.
every other row and increase 1 st. every
other row at lower edge, having 22 sts. on
needle, continue to increase and decrease
until you have 2 inches, then k. 3 inches
straight, decrease 1 st. every other row at
lower edge, at neck increase 1 st. every
other row, continue to k. this way until
you have 2 inches. Cast on 10 sts. at neck
of shoulder, having 32 sts. on needle, keep
on decreasing at lower edge until you have
25 sts. on needle, also decrease at shoulder
seam 1 st. every 8th row until there are
20 sts. left, bind off loosely, having 4 stripes
of each for shoulder.
Back Yoke—With blue cast on 20 sts.,
k. 5 ridges, k. openwork same as front, having
4 stripes of each, increasing at shoulder
seam every 8th row until there are 26 sts.
on needle, decrease 1 st. at neck every other
row for 6 times, having 20 sts. on needle,
k. straight for 7 inches, increase 1 st. every
other row at neck until there are 26 sts.
on needle, then decrease 1 st. every 8th
row at shoulder seam until there are 20 sts.
left, having 4 stripes of each, bind off
loosely, keep lower edge of back yoke
straight.
Cuffs—With steel needles pick up 65 sts.
on sleeve, k. 2, p. 2, for 2 inches, with
ivory needle and blue k. 12 ridges. Next
row—K. 2 sts. * throw yarn over needle,
k. 2 sts. together, repeat from * to end of
row, k. 3 ridges, k. openwork, k. 3 ridges,
bind off loosely.
Belt—With blue cast on 8 sts., k. in
ridges for 30 inches, draw through spaces.
With crochet hook and blue ch. 36 inches
for lacing at side of sweater.
With crochet hook start at lowest point,
crochet 1 s. c., * ch. 3, skip 1 st., 1 s. c.
in next st., repeat from * at both sides of
point for lacing.
Tassel—With blue cut 30 threads 5 inches
long, double over and tie firm, make 6.
With red and crochet hook ch. 3, skip 1
st., 6 s. c. in next st.
47Next Row—2 s. c. in every st., 4 rows
1 s. c. in every st. Next row—* 1 s. c.,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c., skip 1 st., repeat from *
all around. Fasten tassel into this heading.
Sew 2 tassels on belt and 2 at each lacing.
Sew 4 small bone buttons to each shoulder,
use openwork for buttonholes. Crochet 1
row s. c. around neck of yoke.
Utopia Red Cross Sweater No. 824 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Second Row—K. 6, p. 2, k. 6, p. 2, repeat
to end of row, ending row k. 6.
Third Row—P. 6, k. 2, p. 6, k. 2, repeat
to end of row, ending row p. 6.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 11 rows; this makes 1 block; k. 1 row
to form ridge on right side, start next
block.
Model No. 824
First Row—K. 2, p. 2, k. 6, p. 2, repeat
to end of row, ending row k. 2.
Second Row—P. 2, k. 2, p. 6, k. 2, repeat
to end of row, ending row p. 2.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 11 rows, k. 1 row to form ridge, continue
with this pattern throughout sweater,
k. 7 blocks; this is waistline.
With steel needles k. 2, p. 2, k. 2, p. 2,
repeat to end of row, ending row k. 2.
Second Row—P. 2, k. 2, p. 2, k. 2, repeat
to end of row, ending row p. 2.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 3 inches. K. pattern for 5 blocks above
waistline. Cast on 90 sts. for sleeve, k. 1
row, cast on 90 sts. for other sleeve, k.
same pattern until sleeve measures 6 inches
or 10 blocks from waistline. On separate
needle k. 130 sts., bind off 30 sts. for back
of neck and on other side 130 sts., k. 6
rows, increase 1 st. every other row towards
neck until 15 sts. are added, k. pattern
until sleeve measures 12 inches or 9
blocks, bind off 90 sts. for sleeve, having 55
48sts. on needle. Cast on 10 sts., make buttonhole
in second ridge and 12 ridges apart
another buttonhole until there are 8 buttonholes,
continue same pattern for 5 blocks
to waistline, including belt, k. 7 more blocks
same length as back, bind off, k. other
front to correspond.
Collar—With steel needles cast on 100
sts., k. 2, p. 2, for 2 inches, k. 1 row to form
ridge on right side, k. pattern for 2 blocks,
k. 5 ridges, bind off. Sew collar to back
of neck.
Cuffs—With steel knitting needles pick
up 64 sts., k. 2, p. 2, for 3 inches, k. pattern
for 2 blocks, k. 4 ridges, bind off.
Pocket—With steel knitting needles cast
on 25 sts., k. 27 ridges. With scarlet crochet
1 s. c. in every st. at top of pocket.
Sew neatly to left side of sweater above
waistline.
Cord—With crochet hook make 1 yard of
ch. st., 1 s. c. in every st., crochet 2 balls,
ch. 3, skip 1 st., 8 s. c. in second st.
Next Row—2 s. c. in every st.
Following Row—1 s. c., 2 s. c. in next st.,
crochet for 5 rows to desired size, stuff with
wadding, decrease until 3 sts. are left.
At each front side of neck pick up with
steel needles 70 sts., k. 4 ridges, bind off.
Utopia Surplice Sweater—Round Collar Trimmed with Black Flat Buttons without Moulds, No. 823 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Back—Ch. 110 sts. (21 inches), turn, skip
2 sts., 1 s. c. in next st., * ch. 1, skip 1 st.,
1 s. c. in next st., repeat from * to end of
row, having 57 s. c. with ch. 1 between each
s. c. in row (about 20 inches), turn, ch. 2.
Second Row—Skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in space
made by ch. 1, * ch. 1, skip 1 s. c., 1 s. c.
in space made by ch. 1, repeat from * to
end of row, turn, ch. 2, repeat second row
until there are 130 rows (22 inches) from
start of back, ch. 100 sts. (about 19 inches)
for one sleeve, do not break off yarn. With
an extra ball of yarn ch. 100 sts. for other
sleeve, join with a sl. st. to first st. made
in last row, ch. 1, break off yarn. Start
where yarn was left, turn, crochet following
pattern from start of back, having 50
s. c. with ch. 1 between on the ch. sts.
(about 17½ inches), ch. 1, crochet following
pattern across back, having 56 s. c.
with ch. 1 between each s. c. across back,
ch. 1, repeat directions from * in start of
back on the ch. sts., having 156 s. c. with
ch. 1 between each s. c. in row, turn, ch. 2.
Crochet following pattern until there are 34
rows (6 inches) from where sleeves started,
having 156 s. c. with ch. 1 between each s.
c. in row. Crochet following pattern on 68
s. c. over shoulder and sleeve, increasing 1
st. every other row towards neck for 22
rows, then increase 1 st. every 4th row until
there are 40 rows (6½ inches) from where
shoulder was started; this finishes sleeve.
On the next 30 s. c. with ch. 1 between
increase 1 st. towards front every 4th row
and on side seam increase 1 st. every 6th
row to waistline. On the following 32 s. c.
with ch. 1 between increase 1 st. every
12th row at side seam until side seam has
same length as back, work front line
straight. On 16 s. c. with ch. 1 between
(extension for front) at waistline increase
491 st. every 4th row on inside of extension
of front for 20 rows, decrease also 1 st.
every 4th row for 20 rows on lower edge,
make buttonhole on top front side, then
decrease on both sides 1 st. every other row
until 1 st. is left. Crochet other side to
correspond.
Collar—Start collar at buttonhole of right
side, crochet 1 row 1 s. c. all around front
and neck of collar up to waistline of left
side. Crochet 1 s. c. in every st., skip 2
s. c. at beginning and end of row for 2 rows,
skip 3 s. c. at beginning and end of row
on the next 6 rows, skip 4 s. c. at beginning
and end of row on the next 6 rows, skip
5 s. c. at beginning and end of row on the
next 6 rows, skip 6 s. c. at beginning and
end of row on the next 6 rows, then increase
2 sts. every row at different places around
back of collar to give the extra fullness.
Cuffs—Crochet 50 s. c. around sleeve for
23 rows, break off yarn.
Belt—Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every 1 s. c., increase
1 st. every other row on both sides
until there are 16 s. c. for 14 inches, then
decrease 1 s. c. every other row until there
are 3 s. c. left, break off yarn. Fasten to
under-arm seam.
Trimmings—With black crochet 2 rows
s. c. all around collar, extension of fronts,
lower edge of sweater, belt and cuffs.
Buttons—Make 20 large buttons without
moulds, crochet, ch. 3, skip 1 st., 12 s. c.
in next st. First Row—2 d. c. in every st.
Second Row—2 d. c. in every st. Third
Row—1 s. c. in every st.
Next Size—Ch. 3, skip 1 st., 12 s. c. in
next st. First Row—2 d. c. in every st.
Second Row—2 d. c. in every st.
Next Size—Ch. 3, skip 1 st., 12 s. c. in
next st. First Row—2 d. c. in every st.
Second Row—1 s. c. in every st.
Next Size—Ch. 3, skip 1 st., 12 s. c. in
next st., 2 d. c. in every st.
Next Size—Ch. 3, skip 1, 12 d. c. in every
st.
Next Size—Ch. 3, skip 1 st., 12 s. c. in
next st.
Sew 12 large buttons on bottom of sweater.
1 inch above, second size. 1 inch from
this size the next smaller size.
On belt sew one large button in center
and gradually 3 smaller sizes on each side.
Sew 4 different sizes on cuffs. Sew 5 large
buttons in back of collar, gradually reducing
size down front of the collar to smallest
size. Sew 2 buttons on each extension.
8½ skeins Tan Utopia Germantown.
3 skeins Lilly Green 3684
Utopia Germantown. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 8.
5 Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 3.
Back—With green and knitting
needles No. 8 cast on 100 sts., k. 2
ridges, change to tan, k. 8 ridges,
change to green, k. 2 ridges, change
to tan, * k. 1, p. 1, repeat to end
of row; next row p. 1, k. 1, repeat
to end of row, repeat from * these
2 rows alternately until there are
6½ inches, decrease 1 st. on both
sides every 8th row until there are
90 sts. on needle; this is waistline.
With green and knitting
needles No. 3 * k. 5, p. 5, repeat
to end of row. Next row p. 5, k. 5,
repeat to end of row, repeat from
* these 2 rows alternately until
there are 6 rows, change to tan, k.
same pattern 2½ inches, change to
green, k. same pattern 6 rows.
With tan and knitting needles No.
8 k. 1, p. 1, repeat to end of row,
next row p. 1, k. 1, same pattern
through the whole sweater for 9
50inches. Cast on 65 sts. for sleeve, k. 1
row. Cast on 65 sts. for other sleeve, having
220 sts. on needle. K. 6½ inches. On
separate needle k. 96 sts., bind off 28 sts.
for neck and on other 96 sts. k. over shoulder,
front and sleeves after the following
directions and the other to correspond. K.
14 rows (3 inches), k. 32 rows, increase 1 st.
towards neck every 5th row, bind off 65
sts. for sleeve, k. 34 more rows, continue
to increase 1 st. every 5th row until there
are 45 sts. on needle, k. other front. Slip
the 45 sts. to the other 45 sts., having altogether
90 sts. on needle, k. 20 rows. With
green and knitting needle No. 3 k. 5, p. 5,
repeat to end of row, then p. 5, k. 5, repeat
to end of row for 6 rows, change to tan, k.
same pattern for 2½ ins., change to green, k.
same pattern for 6 rows, change to tan,
k. 1, p. 1, repeat to end of row, then p. 1,
k. 1, repeat to end of row, increase 1 st.
on both sides every 8th row until there are
100 sts. on needle, change to green, k. 2
ridges, change to tan, k. 8 ridges, change
to green, k. 2 ridges, bind off loosely.
Cuffs—With green and knitting needles
No. 3 pick up 48 sts. around sleeve, * k. 1,
p. 1, repeat to end of row, next row p. 1,
k. 1, repeat to end of row, repeat from *
these 2 rows alternately until there are 2½
inches, change to tan, k. 4 ridges, change
to green, k. 2 ridges, bind off loosely.
Collar—With green and knitting needles
No. 3 cast on 64 sts., k. 1, p. 1, repeat to
end of row, next row p. 1, k. 1. repeat to
end of row, repeat these 2 rows alternately
until there are 7 inches. On separate needle
k. 19 sts., bind off 26 sts. for neck and on
other 19 sts. k. 3 ins., decrease 1 st. towards
outside of collar every 5th row until
there are 13 inches and 3 sts. left, bind off.
Take 5 knitting needles. With tan pick up
from point up to shoulder 73 sts. (1st
needle) on straight side, 38 sts. (2d needle)
and 63 sts. on back of collar (3d needle) on
straight side 38 sts. (4th needle) and 73 sts.
from shoulder to point (5th needle), k. in
ridges, increase 1 st. on first and last st. on
every needle every other row until there are
5 ridges, then k. 2 more green ridges, bind
off.
Button—K. one large green button and
sew on front at point of collar.
Sew sleeves and side seam neatly together.
Utopia Sleeveless Cutaway Sweater with Peplum and Popcorn Stitch, No. 825 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Peplum—With white ch. 75 sts. (13
inches), turn, skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in every st.,
turn, ch. 3, skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in every st.;
with yellow make popcorn st. after the following
directions: ch. 1, 1 s. c. in st., *
over, draw a loop through next st., over,
draw through one loop, over, draw through
2 loops on hook, 1 s. c. in next st., repeat
from * to end of row, turn; with white
make d. c. in every st. for 2 rows, change
to yellow popcorn st., repeat these rows
alternately until there are 47 white and 47
51yellow stripes (40 inches). With yellow
crochet 1 s. c. on both sides of peplum. At
waistline of peplum make with white 2 rows
of 1 s. c. in every white row, skip the yellow
st., crochet tight to draw in fullness,
having 140 s. c. in row, skip 30 sts. for
front.
Back—With white make 1 d. c. in the following
80 sts., turn, ch. 1, skip 1 st., make
2 rows of s. c. in every st., turn, ch. 3,
skip 1 st., 1 d. c. in every st.; repeat these
3 rows alternately until you have 15½
inches, continue pattern over shoulder and
front after the following directions and the
other side to correspond. Crochet 26 s. c.
(5 inches), leave 20 sts. for back of neck,
increasing 1 st. on every d. c. row down
front of sweater and increasing 1 st. on
every second d. c. row on armhole for 19
d. c. with 2 s. c. rows between (14 inches).
At the 19th d. c. row make buttonhole at
point, having 56 d. c. in row (11 inches),
then decrease on front side of sweater 1 st.
every other d. c. row and on under-arm
side of sweater crochet straight down for
7 d. c. rows with 2 rows s. c. between; this
is waistline; on other 30 sts. continue pattern
straight down front, decreasing 1 st.
on front side on every second d. c. row
until there are 20 sts. left. Crochet peplum
to front of sweater. Sew under-arm
seam together for 4 inches.
Trimmings—With white make ch. sts. for
72 inches, make 2 rows d. c. in every st.;
with yellow 1 row popcorn st., with white
2 rows d. c., and finish off on both sides
with yellow popcorn st., sew neatly up
fronts and around neck of sweater. Make
same trimming for armhole (about 23
inches).
Belt—Make same trimming for belt (27
inches) and fasten to sweater with one large
button on each corner of peplum.
Buttons—Make 3 large buttons.
With white crochet 1 row s. c. at lower
part of peplum and 2 rows s. c. around
armhole.
Ladies’ Utopia Knitted Sweater, with Border and Purled at Waistline on Back, No. 800 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Sizes 36–38
Model No. 800
9 balls Pink Utopia Llama Wool.
1 ball Green Utopia Llama Wool.
1 ball Golden Brown Llama
Wool. 1 ball Blue Utopia Llama
Wool. 1 pair Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 8. 1 pair Ivory
Knitting Needles, No. 6.
For back and both fronts cast
on No. 8 needles 260 sts. (60
inches), k. 4 ridges pink, 1 blue
ridge, 1 brown ridge, 1 green ridge,
1 brown ridge, 1 blue ridge, 2 pink
ridges, start first buttonhole in 12th
ridge and eleven ridges apart hereafter
until there are 5 buttonholes
in peplum. After the first ten
ridges decrease at the 70th st. on
both fronts 1 st. and then every
8th row 1 st. until there are 55 sts.
on each front; continue border with
2 blue ridges, 2 brown ridges, 3
green ridges, 1 blue ridge, 3 green
ridges, 2 brown ridges, 2 blue
ridges, 2 pink ridges, 1 blue ridge,
1 brown ridge, 1 green ridge, 1
brown ridge, 1 blue ridge; knit 28
pink ridges to waistline, altogether
5262 ridges (14 inches) from start. K. 55
sts. on separate needle for front, k. 10 sts.,
repeat n. 50 times, knit 10 sts., having 70 sts.
on needle for back, the other 55 sts. for
front, slip on a separate needle.
Model No. 800
To shape belt for back: First Row—*
K. 2, p. 2, repeat from *, ending row k. 2.
Second Row—* P. 2, k. 2, repeat from *,
ending row p. 2.
Repeat the last 2 rows alternately until
there are 20 rows (3 inches), k. 25 ridges
on 70 sts. (9 inches) from waistline. Cast
on 75 sts. for sleeve (16 inches), k. 1 row.
Cast on 75 sts. for other sleeve, having 220
sts. on needle, 30 ridges (6 inches), k. 98
sts. on separate needle, bind off 24 sts. and
on other 98 sts. k. over shoulder, front and
sleeves after the following directions and
53the other to correspond: K. in ridges, increase
first st. towards front every other
row until there are 35 ridges from where
shoulder was started and 35 sts. are added,
bind off 75 sts. for sleeve and on the 55 sts.
k. in ridges for 9 inches, making buttonhole
in second ridge and 11 ridges apart
until there are four buttonholes, k. front
and peplum together, taking 1 st. from
each needle, bind off.
Cuffs—With No. 6 needle pick up 65 sts.
around sleeve, starting on wrong side, k.
24, repeat n. 8 times, k. 24, having 55 sts.
on needle, k. 11 pink ridges, 2 blue ridges,
1 brown ridge, 2 green ridges, 1 brown
ridge, 2 blue ridges, 3 pink ridges, bind off,
sew up side seam and sleeves.
Collar—Cast on No. 6 needles 80 sts.,
k. 2 pink ridges, 2 blue ridges, 1 brown
ridge, 2 green ridges, 1 brown ridge, 2 blue
ridges, 30 pink ridges, k. 28 sts. on a separate
needle, bind off 24 sts. and on other
28 sts. k. 13 ridges, k. in ridges, decrease
first st. towards inside of collar every 6th
row until there are 35 ridges from where
shoulder was started, decrease every other
row until there are 3 sts., bind off, sew collar
to neck of sweater.
Pockets—Cast on No. 6 needles 20 sts.,
start with brown, k. 2 ridges, increase both
sides 1 st. every other row until there are
36 sts., k. 2 blue ridges, 2 pink ridges, 1
blue ridge, 1 brown ridge, 1 green ridge, 1
brown ridge, 1 blue ridge, k. 15 pink ridges,
bind off 20 sts., on the other 16 sts. k. 3
rows, decrease 1 st. every third row until
there are 11 sts., k. 35 ridges, decrease every
other row 1st st. on both sides until there
are 3 left, bind off, make 2 pockets, sew
one to each side to correspond with border.
Belt—Cast on No. 6 needles 20 sts. of
pink, k. 24 inches, then 2 blue ridges, 1
brown ridge, 2 green ridges, 1 brown ridge,
2 blue ridges, k. 2 pink ridges, decrease
every other row on both sides until there
are 3 sts. left, bind off, sew to under-arm
seam, draw through pocket.
Tassel—With green 5 ch. join * s. c. in
first st., 2 s. c. in next st., repeat from *
until desired size, stuff with cotton, * 1 s. c.
in st., skip 1, repeat from * until closed,
make 4 tassels, sew one to each end of sash
and collar.
Buttons—With pink, green in center.
Make 9 buttons.
NOTE—To avoid side seams on sweaters
with border, the back and fronts must be
knit in one piece up to waistline.
Utopia Norfolk Sweater with Band, Large Plaited Pockets and Belt, No. 820 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Back—With green and knitting needles
No. 6 cast on 118 sts. (26 inches), k. in
ridges for 5 inches, k. in ridges, decrease
1 st. on each end of needle every 6th row
until there are 86 sts. on needle (19 inches);
54this is waistline; k. in ridges until back
measures 9¼ inches from waistline, k. in
ridges, decrease 1 st. on each end of needle
every other row until 3 sts. have been decreased
on each end of needle, having 80
sts. on needle. Cast on 86 sts. for sleeve
(19 inches), k. 1 row, cast on 86 sts. for
other sleeve, having 252 sts. on needle. K.
in ridges for 6 inches. On separate needle
k. 111 sts., bind off 30 sts. for back of neck
and on other 111 sts. k. in ridges for 6 rows,
increase 1 st. towards front every other row
until 10 sts. have been added, k. in ridges
for 6½ inches, making sleeve 12 inches
wide. K. in ridges, making first buttonhole
in 3d ridge and 12 ridges apart another
buttonhole until there are 6 buttonholes.
K. in ridges until side seam measures 9½
inches from under-arm seam, k. in ridges,
increase 1 st. every 6th row until side seam
is same length as side seam on back. Sew
up side seam.
Collar—With tan and knitting needle No.
3 cast on 80 sts., k. 42 ridges. On separate
needle k. 25 sts., bind off 30 sts. for neck
and on other 25 sts. k. 5 ridges, decrease
1 st. every 5th row until there are 10 sts.
left, bind off. K. other side to correspond.
Sew collar neatly to neck of sweater.
Cuffs—With tan and knitting needles No.
3 pick up 46 sts. k. 15 ridges, decrease 1 st.
on each end of needle every row until 3
sts. are left.
Belt—With tan and knitting needles No.
3 cast on 20 sts., k. 23 inches, bind off. For
front belt cast on 3 sts., increase 1 st. every
other row until there are 20 sts. on needle.
K. in ridges for 8 inches, decrease 1 st.
every other row until 3 sts. are left, bind
off. Make 1 buttonhole in center of 6th
ridge from point.
Pockets—Cast on 50 sts., k. 35 ridges,
decrease 1 st. on each end of needle every
other row until there are 18 sts. left, bind
off. In center of pocket make 2 small plaits
to form a box plait.
Band over shoulder—With tan and knitting
needles No. 3 cast on 3 sts., increase
1 st. on each end of needle every other
row until there are 16 sts., k. in ridges for
37 inches, decrease 1 st. every other row
on each end of needle until there are 3
sts. left. Sew band over shoulder
below waistline on front and back,
slip belt under band at waistline.
Buttons—Make 30 buttons, center
red and outside green. Sew 6
buttons on front, 4 on each side of
pocket, 3 on each point of belt, 1
on point of cuff.
With crochet hook No. 1 crochet
with dark red 1 s. c. in every st.
around collar, cuffs, band, belt and
pockets.
Back—With rose and gray (2
threads) cast on 120 sts. on No. 6
needle (23 inches), k. 52 ridges (12
inches) up to waistline. K. 10 sts.,
repeat n. 50 times. K. 10 sts., having
70 sts. on needle, k. in ridges
8 inches. Cast on 65 sts. for sleeve
(12 inches), k. 1 row, cast on 65
55sts. for other sleeve, having 202 sts. on
needle, k. 28 ridges. On spare needle k. 89
sts., bind off loosely 24 sts. for back of
neck and on other 89 sts. k. over shoulder,
front and sleeves after the following directions
and the other to correspond: K. in
ridges, increase 1st st. towards front every
other row until there are 31 ridges from
where shoulder was started and 31 sts. are
added, 122 sts. on needle; bind off 65 sts.
loosely for sleeve and on 57 sts. k. in ridges
for 8 inches same length as back, making
buttonhole in 2d ridge and 12 ridges hereafter
until there are 5 buttonholes on front.
K. 12 sts., increase in next 35 sts. for peplum.
K. 10 sts., having 108 sts. on needle. K.
52 ridges (12 inches) same length as back
seam, bind off.
Cuffs—With rose and No. 4 needle pick
up on right side 61 sts., k. 7 ridges, decrease
on one side of needle alternately 1
st. every 4th row. After the 7 ridges with
rose, k. 3 gray ridges, k. 4 rose ridges, k. 3
gray ridges, k. 4 rose ridges until cuff measures
6 inches or 57 sts. on needle, bind off
loosely. Sew 3 buttons on side of cuff.
Collar—With rose and No. 4 needle cast
on 99 sts., k. 7 ridges with rose, * k. 3 gray
ridges and 4 rose ridges, repeat from * 3
times. K. 15 rose ridges, 46 ridges from
start (8 inches), k. 37 sts. on a spare needle,
bind off 25 sts. On other 37 sts. k. 6 ridges,
decrease 1st st. towards inside of collar
every 4th row until there are 40 ridges from
where shoulder was started, bind off 3 sts.
Belt—With rose cast on No. 4 needle 25
sts., k. 8 ridges, change to gray, k. 3 ridges,
k. 4 rose ridges, 3 gray ridges until there
are 4 gray stripes, k. in ridges with rose 54
inches, other side to correspond. With crochet
hook No. 1 crochet 1 s. c. in every st.
on both sides of belt.
Tassel—With gray wool and crochet hook
No. 1 ch. 3 sts., 10 s. c. in next st., 2 s. c.
in next st., 1 s. c. in each st. until there are
13 rows, decrease every other st., stuff with
cotton.
Ball Tassel—With rose ch. 3 sts., 8 s. c.
in next st., 2 s. c. in each st., * 1 s. c. in
next st., 2 s. c. in next st., repeat from *
until desired size. Stuff with cotton. * *
1 s. c. in st., skip 1 st., repeat from * * until
closed. Make 2 tassels and sew one to each
end of sash.
Tabs—With rose and No. 4 needle cast
on 25 sts., k. 7 ridges rose and 3 gray ridges,
decrease on every other row on both sides
of needle until there are 12 ridges, bind off.
9 skeins of Rose Color, 2 skeins White, 1
skein Black Yarn. 1 pair No. 7 Ivory
Needles. 7 Snappers to fasten.
With anc. r. cast on 85 sts., pl. k. 7 rds.,
1 rd. blk., 3 rds. wh., 1 rd. blk., 3 rds. r. col.,
fol. with blk. and wh. str., rose str., blk.
and wh. str., 1 rd. rose, which completes
border. Fol. r. k. 3, p. 3, to end of n.,
turn, p. over p. and k. over k., fol. this patt.
to have 3 rs. of p. and 3 rs. of k., which form
small sqrs. Next r. p. 3 rs. over k. sqrs.,
k. 3 rs. over p. sqrs. After 1st r. sqrs.,
icr. 1 st. e. end of n. e. 6th r. to w. l. about
18 in. from lower edge of sweater. Fol. patt.
on 9 in. to sl. with no dcr., inc. 1 st. e.
other r. 3 times for gusset, add 45 sts. on
e. end of n. for sls., fol. patt. and k. 10
sqrs. or 30 rs. to shoulder, counting sqrs.
upward from sl. edge. Fol. patt. and k.
82 sts., bind off 11 sts., k. remaining 82 and
trans. to ex. n., k. 6 rs. on 1st 82 sts. with
no inc., then inc. 1 st. e. 2d r. toward fr.
edge 15 times, now bind off 45 sts. to finish
sl. Fol. patt. with no further inc. on fr.
edge. Inc. 1 st. e. other r. 3 times to meet
gusset at back, 9 in. no inc., inc. 1 st. e.
6th r. to border on seam edge, exactly to
meet back, copy border correctly, adding 1
st. e. 6th r. to edge. Re. directions for
opposite fr., match seams perfectly and sew
firmly.
For Cuff—Pick up 15 sts. on either side
of center of sl. edge on right side, inc. 2
sts. among the 15 on e. side, to have 34
in all on n., leaving center open to form
point for tassel fin., pl. k. 1st r. with r.
anc., fol. patt. of border, but 2 rs. of wh.
and 2 rs. of rose col. between the blk. instead
of 3 rs., for smaller border, fin. edge
with ch. and sl. st. cro., also close point
in same manner, end with tassel of 3 colors.
Copy for opposite cuff, close seams after
cuff is done.
Collar—Cast on 60 sts. with anc. r., pl. k.
5 rds., fol. patt. of cuff border exactly, end
with 1 rd. of rose col., then fol. patt. of k. 3,
p. 3, straight across for 5 in., then k. and p.
24 sts., bind off 12 sts. for neck, w. last 24
on ex. n., fol. patt. and dcr. 1 st. e. other r.
until only 10 sts. are left, w. border patt.
just like cuff, bind off, w. opposite side of
collar to match, cro. fin. of ch. and sl. st.
56all around edges. Fit and sew firmly to
neck curve, leaving border ends loose for
lappets if desired.
Work small scallop of 3 ch. and 1 d. c.
all around fr. and lower edges.
For Vestee—Cast on 15 sts. of r. anc.,
pl. k. 12 rds., copy bor. of collar and cuffs,
pl. k. 25 rds., bind off, fin. top and lower
edge with scallop, sew 1 side to left fr.
under scallop from neck curve, and fasten
right fr. with snappers. Allow lappets to
fall over as they please. On edge of vestee
where it fastens, cro. 1 r. of h. d. c. to hold
it firm.
Sash—Cast on 20 sts. of r. col., pl. k.
7 rds., w. border patt. of wider strs., pl. k.
27 in., re. border patt. for center of sash,
27 in., and border again to end of sash,
gather up ends, fin. with mixed tassel, cut
cone-shaped.
Cast on 65 sts. for back and pl. k. 1 rd.
(2 rs. make 1 rd.), 3d r. k. 5, p. 5, to end
of r., re. to have 5 rs., which will form
sqrs., 13 across n. Foll. r. p. over knitting
and k. over purling on 5 rs. to alternate
patt. Foll. patt. to have 12 rs. of sqrs. for
depth to w. l. Now pl. k. 4 rds., inc. 1 st.
at e. end of n. on foll. r., and e. 5th r. to
armhole, 32 rds. from w. l., bind off 3 sts.
at e. end of n., pl. k. 2 rds., dcr. 1 st. e.
other rd. 3 times, pl. k. with no inc. to
shoulder, 69 or 70 sts. across, 24 rds., to
count from armhole, k. 29 sts., bind off 12,
57k. 29, k. back, transfer first 29 sts. on extra
n. or large safety pin, pl. k. 4 rds., then inc.
1 st. e. other r. toward fr. edge 18 times and
add 10 sts. to last r., on which 2 sqrs. foll.
patt. of bor. should be wkd. to meet patt.
at w. l.; on armhole side pl. k. without inc.
22 rds., then inc. 1 st. e. other r. 3 times,
add 6 sts. for under arm, dcr. 1 st. e. 5th
rd. on seam to w. l. Now wk. patt. of sqrs.,
start from fr. edge to have them come out
even. Inc. 1 st. on seam side e. 5th r. This
will make 13 sqrs. on last group. Bind off
4 sqrs. on e. side and wk. on 5 center sqrs.
for extension pocket with fine ns., making
sqrs. smaller by using 4 instead of 5 sts.
for e. sq. After 5 grs. of these sqrs., attach
wk. fl., fol. patt., wk. 1 gr. of sqrs.
(4 k., 4 p.) 4 rs. e. gr., attach rose anc.,
pl. k. 1 rd., 1 rd. green, 1 rd. r. anc., 1 rd.
pl. k. wh. before beginning next gr. to prevent
broken line. Now fol. patt. of sqrs.
to have 3 grs. of sqrs., re. p. and gre. bor.
1 r. wh. pl. k., 1 gr. sqrs., and fol. patt.,
dcr. 1 st. at e. end of n. e. other r. to form
point effect. Fold wh. half of pocket over
gre. on right side of fr., tip point and sides
with ch. and sl. st., cover 1 mould, sew to
position to button to pt. with a loop. Trim
edge of pocket with small scallop if preferred.
Copy opposite fr. correctly from directions.
Pick up 60 sts. around armhole
for sleeve, k. 5, p. 5, to end of r. on right
side of wk., fol. patt. for 7 grs. of sqrs.,
pl. k. 4 rds., dcr. 1 st. in center of e. 5th
rd. 3 times. Wk. 15 rds. in all, fol. this with
7 grs. of sqrs. of 4 k., 4 p. on the fine ns.,
dcr. 1 st. at e. end of n. on e. gr., then wk.
cuff just like pocket with wh., rose anc.,
and gre., trim edge of pt. with gre. scallop
or tipping. Copy directions for opposite
sl., turn back and sew together carefully.
Pick up about 90 sts. around neck opening
with fine ns., k. 4, p. 4, 22 sqrs. across, on
5 gr. rs., then inc. 1 st. at e. end of collar,
fol. patt. to form deep ends in fr. Now wk.
the bor. patt. of rose anc., gre. and rose
in pl. k., 3 gr. rs. of sqrs., 1 more bor. pattern,
no inc., 1 gr. r. of sqrs., finish with
gre. scallop. Cover buttons with wh. cro.,
to fasten sweater down the front with loops
or buttonholes.
For Belt—Cast on 20 sts. with wh. fl. on
fine ns., wk. 5 sqrs. 3 times, insert little bor.
patt., narrow belt toward center if preferred
and wk. 3 grs. of sqrs. divided by
fancy bor. to make belt any length desired.
Finish with gre. scallop. Knot fringe into
e. sqr. of the different colors, close with
loops and buttons, attach to back.
Utopia Knitted Sweater with Short Jacket Effect and Japanese Sleeves, No. 818 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Back—With blue and green combined
cast on 88 sts., k. in ridges
for 9 inches. Cast on 30 sts. for
sleeve, k. 1 row, cast on 30 sts. for
other sleeve, k. in ridges for 8
inches. On separate needle k. 59
sts., bind off 30 sts. for neck and
on other 59 sts. k. over shoulder,
front and sleeves after the following
directions, and the other to
correspond, k. in ridges, increase
1 st. towards front every other
row until there are 44 ridges from
where shoulder was started, having
64 sts. on needle, bind off 30
58sts. for sleeve, k. in ridges, increase 1 st.
every 8th row at side seam, having 75 sts on
needle and 47 ridges. On separate needle k.
40 sts. and on the 35 sts. k. down front vest
(11 inches), making buttonhole in 3d ridge
from top and 14 ridges apart another buttonhole
until there are 7 buttonholes.
Peplum—With blue and green cast on 80
sts. (13½ inches), k. 8 ridges. With coralline
1 ridge, repeat these stripes with 2
threads until there are 30 coralline and 31
blue and green combined stripes (48 inches).
Pick up 250 sts. at top of peplum, k. 10 sts.,
repeat n. 25 times, k. 10 sts. for front, for
back k. 10 sts., repeat n. 45 times, k. 10 sts.
and for other front k. 10 sts., repeat n. 25
times, k. 10 sts., having 155 sts. on needle,
bind off. With crochet hook crochet s. c.
in every st. on top of peplum. Sew peplum
to waistline of jacket so that 3 inches of
back lap over peplum and half of front.
Sleeves—With blue and green cast on 100
sts., * k. 8 ridges, k. 1 coralline ridge, repeat
from * until there are 5 blue and 5
coralline stripes, then decrease 1 st. every
3d row until there are 60 sts. on needle,
having altogether 11 blue and 11 coralline
stripes, bind off loosely. Sew on with coralline
ch. st. neatly to the short sleeve, leaving
1 inch lap over. Sew seam together at
sleeve up to 6½ inches. Sew straight part
of one side to the bias. With coralline and
crochet hook crochet 2 rows s. c. in every
st. around opening of sleeve.
Collar—With blue and green cast on 66
sts., k. 4 ridges, k. 1 coralline ridge, k. 8
blue and green ridges, k. 1 coralline ridge,
repeat these stripes until there are 4 blue
and 5 coralline stripes, k. 3 blue ridges.
Cast on 20 sts. on separate needle, k. 18 sts.,
bind off 30 sts. for neck and on other 18
sts. cast on 20 sts., k. 5 more blue ridges,
k. 1 coralline ridge, decrease 1 st. every 6th
row until there are 30 sts. on needle and
52 ridges, same stripes as before, from
where shoulder was started. Decrease 1 st.
every other row on inside of collar until
there are 3 sts. left, having 9 blue and 9
coralline stripes from shoulder. Crochet
with coralline 1 row s. c. in every st. all
around outside of collar.
Straps—With blue and green cast on 125
sts., k. 4 ridges, bind off loosely. With
coralline and crochet hook crochet 1 row
s. c. in every st. all around on both sides.
Make 2 straps, sew one to each side on
under-arm seam 4 inches from waistline.
Slant down to side of front.
Buttons—Make 19 buttons, sew 4 to each
sleeve at bias seam, one on each strap end,
and 7 down the front.
The “Goldie” Golf Sweater of Utopia Golden Brown and White Llama Yarn, No. 587 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Design No. 587
7 balls of Golden Brown and 1½ balls White
Llama Yarn. No. 7 Knitting Needles and
No. 4 Needles. 9 old Ivory Buttons.
For Skirt Portion—Cast on 60 sts., pl. k.
8 rds. with br. y. on No. 7 ns., attach wh. y.,
wk. 4 rs. of k. 1, p. 1, patt.; 8 rds. br., 4 rs.
wh. patt., and so on, to have 17 grps. of
gold-br., and 16 wh. stripes, bind off, finish
all around 3 sides with 2 ch. and sl. st. tipping,
not too tight, so the pretty scallop
effect at lower edge may be noticeable.
For Upper Part, from w. l.—Cast on, for
back, working upwards, 50 sts., with br. y.,
pl. k. and inc. 1 st. e. end of n. e. 4th rd. to
30 rds., add 60 sts. at e. end of n. for sls.,
pl. k. 19 rds. straight across, k. off 84 sts.,
bind off 16 sts., k. 84, transfer 1 st. 84 to ex.
n., wk. 4 rds. with no inc., then inc. 1 st. e.
other r. towards fr. edge for neck curve
18 times, when there are 37 rds. on sl., bind
off 60 sts. to complete it, from neck to w. l.,
59bind off 2 sts. in e. 7th rd. for buttonhole,
add the 2 sts. when k. back, make 4 but. ho.
after 1 close to neck curve, 5 in all to w. l.,
copy 2d fr. without buttonholes, sew seams
neatly and firmly, finish lower edge with
close s. c. sts., for firm edge to sew flat to
skirt portion, which is to be fulled in to
fit body, front edges also finished with s. c.
It is advisable to sew 2 rs. of firm sts. about
½ inch apart for flat finish at w. l. Now
wk. 5 rds. of wh. on fine ns. at e. edge of
sls., turn back to have br. show about 1½
inch tack back under wh. bor. which forms
a ruffle, tip with br. 2 ch. and sl. st., and
fasten button to center of e. sl. for decoration.
Close fr. with the buttons, etc.
For Collar—With wh. llama cast on 30
sts., pl. k. 5 rds. on fine ns., wk. 2 rs. of
br., k. 1, p. 1, patt., pl. k. 5 rds. of wh.,
must have either 11 or 13 sections, whichever
fits best to size of neck required, bind
off, tip with the br. 2 ch. and sl. st., finish,
sew to position around neck curve, to roll
back.
For Sash—Cast on 20 sts., pl. k. about 2
yds. in length, tip on 2 edges and wk. fringe
into both ends of br. and wh. y., using
about 5 strands of e., tack belt to center
back and knot in fr. like 4-in-hand tie. For
pocket cast on 16 sts., wk. 16 pl. k. rds.,
finish like other parts of sweater and sew
to proper position at left side, decorate with
a button at e. upper corner. Very attractive
garment when nicely and correctly
made.
Ladies’ Utopia Knitted “Violet” Sweater of Wistaria Alpaca Yarn and Black and White Llama Yarn, No. 576 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Hat—Model No. 578 Sweater—Model No. 576
8 balls Utopia Alpaca Yarn, 1 ball each of
Black and White Llama, 1 pair No. 7
Knitting Needles, 1 pair No. 4 Knitting
Needles, Amber, 1 Crochet Hook, No. 4,
1 dozen Black and White Buttons.
For Back—With Wis. y. cast on 85 sts.,
pl. k. 1 r., turn; 2d r. k. 5, p. 1, and re. to
end of r.; 3d r. pl. k.; 4th r. k. 5, p. 1, to
end of r.; re. this patt. to have 7 rds. counting
bet. perpendicular lines on right side
of wk., attach wh. y., pl. k. 3 sts., with blk.
y. p. 3 sts., re. this to end of r., alternating
blk. and wh. as directed, turn, wk. next r.
p. wh., and pl. k. blk., to have all p. sts. on
the blk. and pl. k. sts. wh. on right side of
wk. 3d r. like 1st. r. This completes sqrs.
Now wk. wh. sqrs. over blk. sqrs., and blk.
over wh. sqrs., re. patt. to have * rs. of
sqrs. for bor. Be careful to reverse sqrs.
at end of e. 3 rs. to form effect of checks.
Now 1 r. pl. k. with Wis. col. y., start all
changes on right side of knitting; next r.
k. 5, p. 1, to end of r., re. patt. to w. l., no
inc., to have 25 rds., count patt. on right
side. With No. 4 ns. begin bor. patt. of
blk. and wh. checks and wk. 6 grp. rs. of
the sqrs., very carefully keeping y. on one
side, the wrong side of wk., so as not to
have stray strands to spoil wk. on right side.
Starting on right side with Alpaca y. on
No. 7 ns., wk. 1 r. pl. k., 1 r. k. 5, p. 1, to
have 24 rds. to armhole, dcr. 1 st. at e.
end of n. e. other r. 3 times, k. off 34 sts.,
bind off 16, k. 34, transfer 1st 34 sts. on
ex. n. after working back to neck sp., wk.
14 rds. of patt., no inc. or dcr., then 4 grp.
rs. of blk. and wh. sqrs., no change ns., for
small yoke, with Wis. y. wk. 18 rds. of
60patt. with no inc. on arm side, inc. 1 st. e.
other r. for neck curve at fr. edge 18 times.
Now inc. 1 st. e. other r. 3 times on under-arm
to curve for armhole, add 5 sts.
on for 4th inc., with no further inc., wk. 24
rds. of patt. to belt, on fine ns.; the 6 grp.
rs. of blk. and wh. sqrs., 25 rds. Wis. patt.
on the No. 7 ns.; 6 grp. rs. border on same
ns., 5 rds. of Wis. patt., bind off, copy correctly
on opposite from shoulder.
For Sleeve—With No. 1 k. ns. pick up
64 sts. around armhole, k. 2 rs., transfer to
No. 7 ns., wk. patt. as on body of sweater,
dcr. 1 st. e. end of n. e. 5 rs., to have 40
sts., then no dcr., to count 32 rds. from
shoulder. Now 2 grp. rs. of blk. and wh.
checks, 6 rds. of Wis. patt., 2 grp. rs. checks,
4 rds. patt., bind off, copy on 2d sl. exactly,
match seams neatly, and sew firmly
together, finish sl. edge with 1 r. blk. s. c.
sts., 1 r. wh. s. c. sts., and 1 r. sm. scal.,
of 3 ch. and 1 d. c. and sl. st. in e. other st.
For Collar—With Wis. Alpaca cast on
74 sts., wk. 4 rds. of patt. on No. 4 k. ns.,
then 3 grp. rs. of blk. and wh. checks or
sqrs., 10 rdgs. of Wis. patt. Now wk. 30
sts., bind off 16 sts., k. 30, fol. patt., dcr.
1 st. e. other r. on neck edge to 16 sts. on
n., 1 rd. no dcr., 2 grps. of blk. and wh.
sqrs., 4 rds. Wis. patt., bind off, copy other
side of collar, trim with like sl. edge with
1 r. e. of blk. and wh. s. c. and scal. Wk.
1 r. s. c. all around neck curve before sewing
collar to position to keep firm. Finish
all other edges with ch. and sl. st. of blk.
On right fr. at belt k. a 3 in. lap of 4 rds.,
to close a little beyond buttonhole lap. Wk.
3 buttonholes from belt to neck, finish, sew
buttons to correct position and 1 at e. pt.
of collar for trim.
For Pockets—Cast on 30 sts. with Wis.
Alpaca y. on No. 4 ns., wk. 16 rds. of patt.,
2 grps. of blk. and wh. sqrs., 4 rds. of patt.,
bind off. Wk. bor., finish on top of pockets
like collar edge, other 3 sides with ch. and
sl. st., finish, sew to convenient position,
trim with button at e. end on upper edge
of pocket above sqrs. This completes a
very fascinating Sweater-Coat even with
any other combination of color.
“Annette” Knitted Sweater of Utopia Alpaca Yarn, White and Black, No. 557 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Size 36
Model No. 557
1 box of White Alpaca Yarn. 4½ balls Black
Alpaca Yarn. 1 pair No. 7 Amber Knitting
Needles. 1 dozen Round Button
Moulds.
With white Utopia Alpaca y. cast on 70
sts. for back, pl. k. 1st r.; 2d r. k. 4 sts., p.
3 sts. to end of r.; 3d r. p. the 4 k. sts., k.
the 3 p. sts.; fol. this patt. with no inc. to
have ½ yd. from ed. Now inc. 1 st. e. end
of needle e. 6th r. 5 times to armhole, k.
2 rs., fol. patt., no inc., dcr. 1 st. e. end of
n. e. other r. 3 times to shape armhole, 5
inches no inc. to shoulder, k. off 28 sts.,
bind off 15 sts., k. remaining 28, wk. back
to neck, transfer 1st 28 to extra n., always
fol. patt., wk. 6 rs. no inc., inc. 1 st. toward
fr. ed. for neck curve e. other r. 12 times,
on fol. r. add 10 sts. from curve for small
sqr. effect, or button lap, and inc. 1 st. e.
3d r. on under-arm seam 3 times, no more
inc. on fr. ed., fol. r. add 6 sts. to armhole,
now 6 inches no inc., inc. 1 st. e. 6
rs. to within 12 rs. of lower ed. of sweater.
This will correspond to back ed. of sweater
from armhole. Attach blk. y., wk. 1 r.
k. 1, p. 1, next r. p. 1, k. 1, alternating in
this matter to have 10 rs. of a pretty knot
st. patt. Bind off, copy directions for opposite
fr., attach blk. y. to lower ed. of
61back, fol. patt. of border for 10 rs. to correspond
with fr., bind off.
For Sleeve—Pick up 60 sts. with wh. y.
all around armhole, fol. patt. of body of
sweater, k. 4, p. 3, etc.; use for right side
the 3 k. and 4 p. patt. of wk. Sl. to begin
on this side. Wk. 8 rs. no inc., then dcr.
1 st. on e. end of n. e. 8th r. to 20 inch
length, wk. 2½ inches same pattern with
blk. on No. 4 k. ns. and 3½ inches of border
patt. for turn-over cuff. Copy exactly for
opposite sl., and sew or cro. together neatly
fitted seams from sl. to lower ed. of garment.
For Collar—With fine ns. pick up 75 sts.
around curve of neck from straight line,
wk. k. 1, p. 1 patt. like border, inc. 1 st. at
fr. ends e. other r. to form pts., wk. 34 rs.,
counting 17 knots on perpendicular rs. Collar
of bl. like border, etc.
Pockets—With bl. y. on the fine ns. cast
on 20 sts., fol. border patt, 4 rs. no inc.,
1 st. e. 4 rs. 4 times, now inc. 1 st. e.
other r. on upper ed., and dcr. 1 st. e. other
r. 3 times at lower ed., and dcr. 1 st. e. r.
5 times. This makes pretty shaped pocket.
Finish all around with small scallop, sew to
position with higher pt. to fr. ed.
For Belt—Cast on 11 sts., wk. border patt.
to 1 yd. length, finish ed. all around with
ch. and sl. st., cro. or k. 2 small straps,
sew over seams at w. l., draw belt through
and fasten with bl. but. covered with bl.
cro., finish lower ed. of sweater, collar,
cuffs, pockets, with small scallop, fr. ed.
with ch. and sl. st., close with bll. but. and
cro. loops, 6 or more if preferred.
The “Coraline” Sweater—Made of Coral and Black Utopia Shetland Floss, No. 532 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
With coral color cast on 85 sts., pl. k.
20 rds., dcr. 1 st. on e. end of n. e. 6th rd.
5 times, 20 rds. even (2 rows 1 rd.), inc. 1
st. e. other r. 3 times to form gusset under
sl. Now cast on 45 sts. at e. end of n. for
sls., pl. k. 19 rds., k. 86 sts., bind off 12 for
neck, k. remaining 86 sts. and trans. to ex.
n., pl. k. 4 rds. no inc., on fol. 15 rds. inc.
1 st. e. other r. toward fr. edge to form neck
curve, bind off 45 sts. to fin. sl., inc. 1 st. e.
other r. 3 times for gusset, no further inc.
on fr. edge, pl. k. 20 rds., inc. 1 st. e. 6th
r. on seam edge 5 times, pl. k. 20 rds. to end
of garment, bind off, and copy opposite
fr. correctly.
With blk. pick up 80 sts. on e. fr., pl. k.
5 rds. on e. side, leave spaces for 6 buttonholes
on 3d rd. of right front, bind off, fin.
edges with ch. and sl. st. cro.
Cuff—Pick up 40 sts. on sl. edge, w. 6
inches of k. 1, p. 1 patt., fin. with picot shell
made by ch. 2, in 2d ch. w. 1 h. d. c., 2 d. c.,
1 h. d. c. and fasten in same ch., ch. 2, fasten
in e. 3d st. of cuff edge as e. shell is fin.
Collar—Cast on 75 sts., pl. k. 5 rds., k. 1,
p. 1 patt. for 10 in., but pl. k. 5 sts. at e.
end of n. on e. r. to make a small border on
three sides, cro. picot scallop on lower edge,
sew collar to position as far as the blk. border
at fr. Both collar and cuffs should be
of blk. y. Cro. seams together with ch.
62and sl. st., or sew if preferred. Cro. picot
shell all around the lower edge of sweater,
ch. 3 e. side of shell to form larger effect.
For Pockets—Cast on 20 sts. with blk. y.,
p. 1, k. 1 patt. for 5 in., 3 rds. pl. k., bind off,
fin. with ch. and sl. st. edge, sew into convenient
position, trim with pink button at
e. end on top (buttons of coral col. in close
s. c. st., bk., fr., knot center).
Sash—Cast on 25 sts. with blk., pl. k. 7
rds., 3 rds. coral, fol. patt. to have 3 blk.
stripes and 2 pink. Now wk. 2 yds. pl. k.
with cor., copy border, bind off, fin. with
large blk. tassels, small tassels on blk. cord
at collar, fin.
“Quaker Girl” Sweater of Gray Utopia Alpaca Yarn and White Thibet Yarn, No. 558 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Size 36
Model No. 558
8 balls Gray Alpaca Yarn of 1½ oz. size.
4 balls White Yarn. 1 pair No. 7 Ivory
Knitting Needles. 1 pair No. 4 Amber
Knitting Needles. 1 dozen White Buttons,
any preferred style.
With gray y. on No. 7 ns. cast on 76 sts.
for back, pl. k. 1 r.; 2d r. k. 1, p. 1 to end
of r.; 3d r. pl. k.; fol. patt. of 2d and 3d rs.
through entire wk. of this sweater. Both
sides of wk. make pretty patt., but the rough
or barley-corn st. is the one for right side
here. Wk. 8 rds. gray, attach wh. Thibet
y., wk. 6 rds. of patt. (2 rs. form rd.), 1 r.
pl. k., 1 r. k. 1, p. 1, 33 rds. gray to w. l.
Now inc. 1 st. e. 8 rs. to sl. on e. end of n.
5 times, add 50 sts. on e. end of n. for sls.,
wk. 17 rds. to shoulder, k. off 85 sts., bind
off 12 sts., k. remaining 85, fol. patt., wk.
back to bind off, transfer 1st 85 sts. to
extra n. or blanket pin, now wk. 4 rds. no
inc. on 85 sts., inc. 1 st. e. other r. at fr.
ed. for neck curve 12 times, 2 rds. no inc.,
then on right fr. inc. 1 st. e. 4th r. to w. l.,
for revere ed., after 16 rds. from shoulder,
bind off 50 sts. to complete sl. From w. l.
to wh. border, inc. 1 st. e. 6th r. on under-arm
seam. Now 6 rds. of wh., 8 rds. gray,
bind off, copy on left fr. correctly to end
of neck curve, then k. double ed. on 1st
4 sts.; for d. ed., sl. 1 st., k. 1, sl. 1, k. 1,
then follow patt., keeping ed. straight to
end of garment. Cro. seams together on
wrong side of wk. with sl. st., finish all
edges by tipping of ch. and sl. st.
For Cuff—With fine k. ns. and gr. y. pick
up 36 sts. on sl. edge, from right side of wk.,
pl. k. 1 r., fol. patt. for 5 rds., attach wh. y.,
wk. 4 rds., dcr. 2 sts. e. end of n. e. other r.
to pt., tip closely with ch. and sl. st., repeat
directions for opposite cuff.
For Collar—On fine ns. with wh. y. cast
on 64 sts., pl. k. 1 r., fol. patt. and wk. 20
rds. straight along, back and forth, k. off
26 sts., bind off 13 sts., k. remaining 26 sts.,
dcr. 1 st. e. other r. at neck to pt. of 2 sts.
Copy on opposite end of collar tip around
neck edge with sl. st. to prevent spreading,
and outside ed. with ch. and sl. st., 2 rs.
around the 3 ed. or sides with gray y.
63For Revere—On fine ns. with wh. y. cast
on 36 sts., wk. 2 rds., fol. patt., no inc.,
dcr. 1 st. e. other r. to pt., sl. st. bias ed.,
tip with gr. ch. and sl. st. all around. Fit
collar easily to neck curve and revere just
from under collar pt. along diagonal side
of fr. to w. l., sew firmly to position, wk.
may be arranged to have revere on either
side of sweater.
For Pocket—With gray cast on 20 sts. on
fine ns., wk. 15 rds. of patt., attach wh. y.,
wk. 3 rds., dcr. 2 sts. e. other r. on e. end
of n. to pt., tip as before, copy for 2d
pocket, sew button to e. pt., place in position
on e. fr. about 2 inches above wh.
border.
For Two Back Belts—Cast on 10 sts.,
wk. 30 rds. on lower belt, 35 rds. on upper
belt, tip all around 4 sides with gray, gather
back at w. l. to fit smaller strip, which is to
be sewed to w. l. and upper belt to meet
it at seams, and raised to 1½ inches above
it in center back. For fr. belt cast on 12
sts., wk. 40 rds. of patt., also wh., tip with
gr., place square ends to meet the 2 belts
at seams on one side and fasten with wh.
buttons and cro. loops to other ends. Close
fr. diagonally to w. l. with but. and loops,
and to ed. as required.
With yel. fl. on No. 7 ns. cast on 77 sts.,
use 2 threads of fl., wk. 4 rds. pl. k., br. off
1 thread and use single for all wk. but the
4 rds. on lower edge for firmness. Now
pl. k. 1 r., p. 1 r.; 3d r. p. 5 sts., pl. k. 3 sts.
to end of r.; 4th r. pl. k. 5 sts., p. 3 sts. to
end of r.; 5th r. pl. k. 7 sts., on 8th lift st.
under this to n. and p. both together to form
pretty knot, which later on gives effect of
alligator skin and gives that name to stitch:
“Alligator Stitch.” Re. the 7 pl. k. sts. and
1 double purl st. to end of r., then 1 r. p.,
1 r. p. 5, pl. k. 3 sts., 1 r. pl. k. 5, p. 3,
pl. k. 7, d. p. (d. p., double purl) 8th st. to
end of r., 1 r. p., 1 r. p. 5, pl. k. 3, 1 r.
pl. k. 5, p. 3, and so on, e. 4 rs. complete
patt., and if directions are carefully fol. it
makes a very beautiful st., which keeps the
purl and k. sts. alternating between the
pl. k. and d. p. columns on right side of wk.
Wk. this patt. to w. l., about 16 p. st. grps.,
counting on right side. Now with No. 4
ns. k. 2, p. 2 on 24 rs. for belt effect, with
No. 7 ns. resume patt., wk. 3 inches no inc.,
inc. 1 st. e. end of n. e. 5th r. to armhole,
not over 12 grps. of p. rds. from w. l., then
dcr. 1 st. e. end of n. e. other r. 10 times,
and no further inc. to shoulder, to be over
20 rds. from w. l. to neck. K. off 26 sts.,
bind off 17, k. 26, turn, k. 26, transfer opposite
26 to ex. n., wk. 20 rs. no inc., inc.
1 st. e. other r. on neck curve 10 times, and
on arm side 1 st. e. other r. 5 times with 3
ex. sts. added on 6th inc. to shape arm curve
under arm. On fr. edge add 10 sts. under
curve to give sqr. neck effect, fol. patt. and
k. to have 6 grps. of p. sts. no inc. at either
end of n., transfer to ex. n., copy directions
on opposite 26 sts. very correctly, now assemble
all sts. on 1 n., wk. straight across,
no inc. or dcr. on e. edge to w. l., re. belt
patt. on No. 4 ns. (from armhole to fr. w. l.
24 rds.), wk. 16 rds. of patt. on No. 7 ns.,
then 4 rds. pl. k. with 2 threads, bind off.
With 2 threads of Cymar Yarn and No. 1
64ns. or hat pin pick up 75 sts. around armhole,
pl. k. 1 rd., transfer to No. 4 ns., wk.
6 rs. of p. 1, k. 1 patt., pl. k. 1 rd., bind off,
tip with ch. and sl. st. cro. of gray Angora
y. Duplicate on opposite armhole, close
seams, match perfectly, and sew or cro.
firmly together.
For Collar—Cast on 60 sts. with 2 threads
of the Orange Cymar y., pl. k. 1 rd., wk.
k. 1, p. 1 patt. on No. 4 ns., inc. 1 st. e.
other r. on e. end of n. 8 times, wk. 30 rds.
to neck no inc., k. off 30 sts., bind off 15
sts., k. remaining 30 sts. and keep on same
needle if desired, wk. 50 rs. on 30 sts., bind
off 10 on neck edge, k. rest of sts., then bind
off 5 and then 3 on fol. rs. to make pt.
curve out to edge, copy on opposite end of
collar, make 4 pretty tassels and fasten 1
to e. of the 4 pts. on collar. Wk. s. c. sts.
all around neck and collar edges, sew col.
neatly around curve from sqr. cor. edge,
fit collar well before sewing. Tip sqr. neck
line with ch. and sl. st. of orange y., cro.
ch. cord to lace up straight edges, attach
tassel to e. end and tie bow knot, tip collar
with gray Angora y., and openwork cro.
belt also, with orange y. wk. 4 ch. st. 1 ps.
on r. back and forth to desired length and
finish into pt. shape. Fasten to center back.
The “Brownie” Tennis Pull-over Sweater of Brown and Tan Utopia Shetland Floss, No. 586 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 586
7 skeins of Brown and 2 skeins Tan Shetland
Floss. 1 pair No. 7 Amber Needles.
1 pair No. 4 Amber Needles. 1 dozen
pretty buttons.
For back—With br. fl. on No. 7 ns. cast
on 76 sts., pl. k. 1 r., k. 2, p. 2, on 2 rs.,
next 2 rs. p. the k. sts. and k. the p. sts.,
alternate e. 2 rs. This makes patt. for peplum
from lower edge to w. l., wk. 60 rs. or
15 grps. e. of p. and k. sts., counting perpendicular
lines. With No. 4 ns. wk. 24
rs. of pl. k. 2, p. 2 patt. for fitted belt effect,
with No. 7 ns. wk. 20 pl. k. rds. with no inc.,
inc. 1 st. e. end of n. 3 times, then add 6 sts.
at e. end of n. for epaulette sl., inc. 1 st. at
e. end of n. e. other r. 6 times, then k. to
exactly center of fol. r., transfer opposite
half to ex. n., dcr. 1 st. e. other r. from
center back and continue inc. on sl. to 19th
rd. This makes 12 dcr. rds. at back and
18 inc. on sl. to shoulder, 2 rds. no inc. or
dcr., then inc. 1 st. e. other r. to front edge
for neck curve and dcr. 1 st. e. other r. on
sl. back to 6 sts. or 18 rds. to complete sl.,
bind off the 6 sts., dcr. 1 st. e. other st. 3
times on sl. edge, inc. on neck curve this
far, copy opposite side correctly to same
place, assemble all sts. on 1 n., wk. 20 rds.
no inc. or dcr., with fine ns., wk. belt line
like back, then copy peplum to match back
at seams, bind off, tip lower edge with ch.
and sl. st., after sewing seams neatly together
pick up 70 sts. on e. side of neck
opening separately, making one-half of collar
at a time, wk. with tan y. on fine ns.,
1 rd. pl. k., then k. 1, p. 1 patt., inc. 1 st.
at e. end of n. e. 4th r. to 28 rs., bind off
and finish with small scallop all around 3
sides, inc. at pts. to accentuate. Copy other
half of collar carefully, make small tan tassels
of tan for e. end at 4 pts., 2 extra for
cro. cord ends to make bow knot for center
fr. This midi has pretty V at fr. and back
of neck opening. Now pick up 40 sts. from
seam to center of sl., wk. with tan y. on
No. 4 ns., 1 rd. pl. k., 7 rs. of patt., inc. 1 st.
e. 3d r. at center of sl. for pt., wk. opposite
half of bor. from center and copy exactly,
matching wk. for 2d sl., sew seams neatly,
copy scallop around 3 edges of sl. bor., attach
65a small tassel to e. pt. and sew but-
[Transcriber—this entire line is absent from the original text.]
at center between bor. pts. of sls. for decoration.
All small scallops on tan must be
br., of course.
For Medallion Belt—Cast on with tan y.
and fine ns. 12 sts. for center of 1st medallion,
to be used for button side to fasten
belt, wk. 10 rs. of k. 1, p. 1 patt., dcr. 1 st.
e. other r. at e. end of n. to leave 4 sts.,
wk. 3 rs. on 4 sts., inc. 1 st. e. end of n.
back to 12 sts., fol. patt. and wk. 16 rs. no
inc., dcr. again to 4 sts., and re. these directions
to have 6 complete ovals, and the one
with sqr. for opposite end to lap over and
close with buttonholes. Tack center medallion
to center of back, sew a pretty button
to e. center of 4 sts., also tack belt to seams
where required. Exact position for belt is
in middle of w. l. of course. Close with
buttons and buttonholes as directed.
For Pockets—Cast on 15 sts. with tan fl.
on fine ns., wk. 21 rs. of k. 1, p. 1 patt.,
pl. k. 6 rds. and dcr. 1 st. e. end of n. for
pt. on e. other r., bind off last 2 sts. and trim
with small scallop like rest of garment, tack
pt. to pocket with button, sew to convenient
position above belt and copy for another
pocket unless 1 pocket is preferred.
This is an unusual and very pretty design.
Golf Vest of Gr. Utopia Shetland Floss and White Utopia Llama Yarn No. 582 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
For Back—Cast on 77 sts. with gr. fl., pl. k.
1 rd., k. 3, p. 2 to end of r., turn, p. 3, k. 2 to
end of r.; fol. this patt. on 8 rs. with gr., 4 rs.
wh. llama y., 6 rs. gr., 4 rs. wh., 40 rs. gr.,
no inc. or dcr. to w. l., 3 rds. pl. k., 12 rs.
k. and p. patt., 3 k., 2 p. on one side, 2 k.,
3 p. on other side, carefully wk. so as to
have all upward rs. exactly above e. other
all through wk. when finished. From w. l.
inc. 1 st. e. 10th r. to armhole, fol. patt.
of 3 pl. k. rds. after e. 12 rs. of k. and p.
patt. throughout, excepting from w. l. to
lower edge. 3 grps. of pl. k. rds. to armhole
and 2 grps. of patt., now dcr. 1 st. e.
4th r. to shoulder, in all, 6 grps. of pl. k.
rds. and 5 patt., from w. l., k. patt. on 24
sts., bind off 16 sts., patt. on last 24 sts.,
wk. back to neck, transfer 1st 24 sts. on
ex. n., wk. 4 rs. no inc. at fr. edge, and 12
rs. no inc. on armhole side, on neck curve
inc. 1 st. e. 4th r. 12 times, and 1 st. e.
other r. 8 times, always fol. patt., from here
dcr. 1 st. e. other r. 12 times to form sharp
pt. for double breasted effect near w. l., then
continue to dcr. if more slant is desired,
then straight to lower edge. On arm side
after the 12 rs. no inc., inc. 1 st. e. 4th r.
8 times, 3 rs. no inc., dcr. 1 st. to w. l. e.
10th r. from w. l. to lower edge, inc. 1 st.
e. 10th r., matching patt. of back, with wh.
bor. stripes. Copy dir. on 2d fr. correctly.
For Edges—With gr. y. pick up sts.
around 2 fronts and neck on the No. 1
k. ns., very closely pl. k. 1 rd., attach wh.
llama y., k. 1, p. 1 back and forth on 2 rs.,
bind off, then tip with gr. ch. and sl. st.
cro. and be sure to widen e. r. of wk. at pts.
in fr. to accentuate them, pick up all sts.
around armhole very closely also, with gr.
pl. k. 1 rd., wk. 2 rs. k. and p. like fr. edges
66on fine ns., tip with the gr., copy on opposite
armhole, sew seams neatly together,
tip lower edge of vest also with gr. in same
manner (ch. and sl. st.), wk. 2 buttonholes,
1 at pt., 1 3 in. below, by cro. 3 ch. at start,
tack about ⅝ in. below, wk. s. c. back to make
firm buttonhole, sew buttons to meet in
correct positions.
For Belt—Cast on 20 sts., wk. k. 1. p. 1
patt. on No. 4 k. ns., wk. 10 rs. gr., 2 rs.
wh., 4 rs. gr., 2 rs. wh., 4 rs. gr., 2 rs. wh.,
16 rs. gr., repeat these dir. along full length
of belt, which should have 10 sections of
patt. or more if not long enough. Make 2
pretty pompom balls, attach to 9 in. cord,
draw through all sts. at e. end of belt,
fasten 2d end of cord to ball also, sew
center of belt to center back at w. l., tie
in fr. or on side lightly.
Sleeveless “Pansy” Sport Coat of Utopia Shetland Floss and White Llama Yarn, No. 585 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 585
7 skeins Raisin Color Shetland Floss. 1½
balls White Llama Yarn. No. 7 and No. 4
Amber Knitting Needles. ½ dozen Fancy
Buttons.
For Back—With raisin col. fl. cast on
75 sts., pl. k. 1 rd., for patt. wk. 1 r. k. 1,
p. 1 st., pl. k. 1 r., and wk. 12 rs. of this
patt., for bor. use barley-corn st. for right
side, there should be 12 rs. of barley-corn,
which really means 24 rs. in bor. Now wk.
8 rs. k. 1, p. 1 st., 1 rd. pl. k., this constitutes
1 section, dcr. 1 st. e. end of n. on e. pl. k.
rd. of e. section 4 times, there should be five
sections so far, 2 sections no inc. to indicate
w. l., then inc. 1 st. e. end of n. e.
4th r. on 3 sections to long armhole, 3 sections
no inc. to shoulder, k. off 24 sts., bind
off 14 sts., k. last 24 sts., pl. k. rd. is top
of shoulder, 3 sections no inc. on arm side,
inc. 1 st. e. 4th r. on neck curve to w. l.
on arm side, then inc. 1 st. e. 4th r. on fol.
4 sections, as fr. has 1 sec. more than back
for armhole, then no inc. or dcr. on 2 w. l.
secs., now inc. 1 st. e. 4th r. to border to
have more width for fr., copy patt. of bor.
to edge, bind off., foll. dir. exactly for opposite
fr., sew seams perfectly matched, after
making small bor. on armhole, picking up
sts. closely, wk. 1 rd. pl. k., 2 rs. wh. k. 1,
p. 1 patt., 1 rd. raisin col., tip with small
scallop of same shade.
For Belt—Cast on 18 sts., wk. 3 separate
strips of 5 sections each with the pur. y., 10
rs. patt. 1 rd. pl. k. for e. section of belt,
2 of the pieces should have wk. graduated
to a pt. at 1 end, this to lap over to center
back and tacked to position with pretty
button, and front ends close with 3 buttons
and cro. loops, after placing in position 2
inches beyond fr. edge to leave open sp.
all the way down fr.
For Revere Collar—Cast on 20 sts. on
fine ns. with wh. llama y., wk. 8 rs. of k. 1,
p. 1 patt., 1 rd. of pur. y. (2 pl. k. rs. 1 rd.),
8 rs. wh. patt., and so on to have 6 sections
no inc., then inc. 1 st. in e. pur. rd. on
outside edge of e. sec. to center back of
collar, 16 secs. or as many as required to
go easily around one-half of coat. At center
wk. only 12 sts. wh. on last r. of center
sec., 1 rd. pur., 1 rd. wh., add enough sts.
to match 1st half, copy exactly for opposite
fr., place center to center at neck, both
garment and coll. on wrong side, sew firmly
but lightly together, roll back over fronts,
tack occasionally, leaving sp. open for belt
to pass through at w. l., finish armholes and
collar with pur. scallop of 1 s. c., 3 ch., 1
s. c. in e. 3d st. all around edge, and lower
edge of coat with ch. and sl. st. finish, 1
button is for back of collar at intersection.
This makes a lovely sport coat for all
seasons.
“Princeton” or “Tiger-Lily” Golf Vest, Burnt Orange Utopia Cymar Yarn and Black Shetland Floss, No. 584 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
With B. Or. on No. 7 ns. cast on 35 sts.,
k. back 1 r., then for patt. k. 1, p. 1 st.,
wk. 20 rs. for ½ peplum, br. off thread, cast
on 35 sts. once more on same n., wk. 20 rs.
patt., now 4 rs. on the 70 sts., attach blk.,
pl. k. 1 rd., 2 rs. Or. patt., 1 rd. blk., 4 rs.
patt., 1 rd. blk., 2 rs. patt., 1 rd. blk. (all rds.
of course mean pl. k.), wk. patt. to armhole
with B. Or., inc. 1 st. e. 6th r. at e. end of
n. 5 times, there should be about 9 ins. to
armhole from belt or w. l., dcr. 1 st. e. other
r. e. end of n. 5 times, wk. 20 rs. patt. with
no inc. to shoulder, wk. 28 sts., bind off 14
sts., k. last 28 sts. forward and back, transfer
1st 28 to ex. n., attach blk. fl., wk. 1 rd.
on the 28 sts., 2 rs. patt. with B. Or., 1 rd.
blk., 2 rs. patt., 1 rd. blk., 2 rs. patt., 1 rd.
blk., this gives yoke effect, 4 rds. blk., 3 str.
Or., now wk. patt. with Or., 24 rs., inc.
1 st. e. other r. toward fr. edge for neck
curve, no inc. on arm side until 25th r.,
then inc. 1 st. e. other r. 5 times, on 26th
r. of fr. from neck curve pl. k. 6 sts. to form
button and buttonhole band to lower edge
of vest, dcr. 1 st. e. 6th r. on seam side to
w. l., copy belt effect to match back, with
blk. and Or., then 4 rs. patt. no inc., dcr.
1 st. e. other r. on fr. edge from here on,
and inc. 1 st. e. 6th r. on seam, wk. 30 rs.
from last r. blk. This gives a cutaway effect
to vest. Bind off 8 sts. on e. end of last r.,
wk. 14 rs. on the 24 remaining sts. between
them, turn up over vest fr. for pocket before
working bor. of 1 rd. blk., 2 rs. patt.,
1 rd. blk., two rs. patt., bind off, copy dir.
perfectly for opposite fr. pick up sts. closely
around armhole with blk. on No. 4 ns.,
wk. bor. like pocket, tip with blk. 2 ch. and
sl. st. finish, trim opposite armhole exactly
like it, pick up sts. around neck curve very
closely with blk. on No. 4 ns. from wrong
side of wk., pl. k. 1 rd., then wk. whole collar
of blk., k. 1, p. 1 patt., dcr. 1 st. e. end
of n. to any depth desired, then pick up
all sts. on either side of last r., wk. 1 pl. k.
rd. of the blk., trim with bor. like armholes,
only have 3 rs. of B. Or. instead of 2 before
blk. 2 ch. and sl. st. fin., inc. 1 st. e.
r. at e. end of corners, tip all around vest
with blk. 2 ch. and sl. st. edge, wk. 5 buttonholes
on right fr., sew buttons to position,
trim ends of collar and pockets with
buttons, also at center back over peplum
ends.
This makes a stunningly stylish vest if
correctly carried out.
Utopia Ladies’ Sport Sweater No. 907 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Note—This sweater is knitted with two
threads of yarn, one Gray, one Pink.
Back—Cast on 100 sts.
Increase 1 st. at neck end every other row
until 16 sts. have been added on. Now add
6 sts. at neck end all at one time. Knit 8
rows or 4 ribs. * Decrease 1 st. at neck
end of sweater. Knit 8 rows. Repeat from
* until there are 25 ribs for shoulder or 5
inches.
68Bind off 30 sts. for armhole, knit for 10
ribs, on next row add on 30 sts. at the top
end, knit 4 ribs, * increase 1 st. on next row,
knit 4 ribs, repeat from * until there are 25
ribs across shoulder, knit 12 ribs even. This
finishes one-half of sweater. Reverse directions
for the other half of sweater.
Sleeves—Cast on 12 sts., add on 4 sts. at
wrist end and 1 st. at top end every other
row for 12 times, then stop increasing at
the wrist, but continue to increase at top
10 times more. Sleeve should measure about
22 inches for length.
Knit 16 ribs even, decrease 1 st. at top
every other row 12 times. Now start and
decrease 1 st. at top and bind off 4 sts. at
bottom every other row 12 times. Bind
off remaining sts.
Cuffs—Pick up sts. with two threads of
gray wool, 1 st. between each rib at wrist,
knit about 4 inches, bind off, sew up sleeve,
and turn back cuff.
Bands—With two threads of gray wool
cast on 12 sts., knit 4 ribs and in next row
make buttonhole as follows: K. 3 sts., bind
off 6 sts., k. 3 sts., turn, k. 3 sts., cast on 6
sts., k. 3 sts. This makes the buttonhole.
Make buttonholes about 4 inches apart.
Knit band to fit sweater.
Omit buttonholes on left sidepiece.
Belt—With two threads of gray wool cast
on 2 sts., increase 1 st. in beginning of each
row until there are 18 sts. Knit even for
10 inches, decrease 1 st. in beginning of each
row until 2 sts. remain, cast off.
Straps for Belt—With two threads of gray
wool cast on 10 sts., knit even for 10 inches,
bind off two pieces like this. Sew under
points of belt and trim with a button.
Pockets—Two threads of gray wool, cast
on 24 sts., knit a square piece, bind off, pick
up stitches on top end, having ribs run the
same as sweater, and knit 4 ribs.
Decrease 1 st. at each end of needle every
other row until 1 st. remains, cast off, fasten
point back with button.
Collar—With two threads of gray wool
cast on 7 sts., increase 1 st. every other row
at 1 end only until there are 30 sts. on
needle. Knit even until collar fits across
neck to the other side, then decrease 1 st.
every other row until there are 7 sts left.
Bind off, sew straight side to sweater.
Buttons—With one thread of gray and
one of pink ch. 3 sts., turn, skip 1 st. 1 s. c.
in next st.
* 1 s. c. in st., 2 s. c. in next st., repeat
from * until work is large enough to cover
mould, slip in mould and draw together.
Leave enough thread to sew on with.
4 balls Robins Egg Utopia Cymar Yarn. 4
balls Shadow Lawn Utopia Cymar Yarn.
1 ball Golden Brown Llama Wool. For
Daisies take Yellow and Dark Brown.
For Leaves, Dark Green. 1 pair Ivory
Knitting Needles, No. 6. 1 Crochet Hook,
No. 3.
Model No. 806
With two threads, blue and green, cast
on 50 sts. (9½ inches), k. 2 ridges.
First Row—K.
Second Row—P.
Third Row—K.
Fourth Row—P.
Repeat these four rows until there are 7
inches for pockets; k. in ridges 12 inches,
increase first st. on side seam every 10th row
until there are 65 sts. on needle; k. in ridges
9 inches up to shoulder; k. other front up to
shoulder to correspond. Cast on 20 sts. for
69back of neck, k. 65 sts. of other front on
same needle, having 150 sts. on needle for
back; k. in ridges 6 inches, decrease side
seam every fourth row until there are 105
sts. on needle; k. in ridges 5 more inches,
bind off loosely. With golden brown and
crochet hook No. 3 turn up the 7 inches for
pockets, crochet together with 1 s. c. in
every st.; with s. c. crochet 2 rows all
around front, sleeves, side seam up to waistline
and back.
Belt—With blue and green cast on 12
sts., k. in ridges 63 inches. Crochet with
golden brown s. c. all around in every st.
Daisies—With yellow ch. 6 sts., join with
a sl. st. to form a ring, * ch. 9 sts., turn,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c.,
1 s. c. on the 9 ch. sts., 1 s. c. in ring,
repeat from * 7 times, break off wool. Fill
center with French knots, dark brown.
Leaves—With dark green wool ch. 14 sts.,
turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 ch. sts.,
1 h. d. c. in next st., 1 d. c. in each of 7
sts., 1 h. d. c. in st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 sts.,
* ch. 1, repeat from *. Make 5 leaves with
ch. sts. between.
Ladies’ Utopia Crocheted Hat No. 100 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS — FOR EVERY YARN USER
Model No. 100
1 ball Robins Egg Utopia Cymar Yarn. 1
ball Shadow Lawn Green Utopia Cymar
Yarn. ¼ skein Golden Brown Utopia
Llama Wool. For Daisies take Yellow
Wool. For Leaves take Dark Green. 1
Crochet Hook, No. 5. Poke Bonnet Buckram
Frame.
Crown—Ch. 6, turn, 1 s. c. in next 5 sts.,
2 s. c. in next st., 1 s. c. in next 5 sts.
Three rows increase 2 s. c. in every 5th st.
Four rows increase 2 s. c. in every 6th st.
Five rows increase 2 s. c. in every 7th st.
Eight rows increase 2 s. c. in every 8th st.
Eighteen rows plain s. c.
Every fourth row take back thread to
form ridge.
Brim—Raise 1 st. through each of the 5
successive sts., holding all the loops on the
needle and closing the cluster with 1 ch.;
repeat to end of row.
70Second row and all succeeding
rows * draw up a loop from last
ch., another from back of the loop
of last st. and 1 through each of
the next 2 sts., draw a loop through
all the loops on the hook together
and close with 1 ch., repeat from *.
After the second row increase
every 5th star by making 1 additional
star of 4 loops. The last
loop of star being raised in the
same place as the last loop of the
star just made; the last two rows
change to golden brown.
Inside of Brim—Ch. 120 sts., 2
rows s. c., skip 9 s. c. in back for
3 rows, next 4 rows increase every
11th st., 2 s. c. towards the front
of brim all around to back crochet
15 rows for front and 8 rows for
back of brim, taking back thread
every 4th row to form ridge. Sew
under and top part of brim together.
Cord—For making cord take 7
threads. Length of thread must be
twice the measurement around hat.
Put 7 threads on hook and pull and
twist at the same time as tight as
possible. Put end which you held
on finger on hook and the threads
will twist, making a heavy cord.
Daisies—With yellow wool ch.
6 sts., join with a sl. st. to form
a ring, * ch. 9 sts., turn, skip 1 st.,
1 s. c., 1 h. d. c., 4 d. c., 1 h. d. c.,
1 s. c. on the 9 ch. sts., 1 s. c. in
ring, repeat from * 7 times, break
off wool. Fill center with French
knots, dark brown.
Leaves—With dark green ch. 14 sts., turn,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 ch. sts., 1 h. d.
c. in next st., 1 d. c. in each of 7 sts., 1 h. d. c.
in st., 1 s. c. in each of 2 sts., * ch. 1, repeat
from * backwards in the same 14 sts. Make
6 leaves, crochet together with ch.
Instructions in knitting and crocheting
are of little use unless the explanations are
correct, simple and easy to follow. In the
UTOPIA YARN BOOK the whole subject
is systematically and thoroughly treated,
from the making of the stitch to the finish
of the newest yarn article. Every stitch
and article is carefully illustrated and explained
and directions are absolutely correct
in every detail. Order from your
dealer.
Ladies’ “Pansy” Hat Crocheted of Gray Utopia Alpaca and Gray and Lavender Chenille, No. 578 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
3 balls Gray Alpaca Yarn. About 1 skein of
various colors Shetland Floss. 3 skeins
Dark Green Chenille. 2 skeins Purple
Chenille. Round sailor hat shape and
green satin lining. Crochet Hook No. 4.
For top of hat (crown)—With gr. y. ch.
14 sts., wk. all around ch. with triple cro.,
made short to give twisted effect, inc. in e.
end to have 5 sts., wk. 3 in center and 2 on
either side of it, 9 single sts. on e. side,
makes 28 sts. all around. Second row, popcorn
71st., and for inc. wk. 4 ch. and 1 s. c.
in same sp., 1 s. c. in next st., and so on
to circle the r., close e. r. with tight sl. st.
Third row, tr. cro., no inc. Fourth row,
popcorn st., as described. Fifth row, like
third. Sixth row, like fourth, but popcorn
is closed in st. next to it with s. c., not in
same space, as no inc. is needed on fol. 5
popcorn rs. and 6 tr. cro. rs. 2 s. c. between
e. popcorn.
For Brim—Inc. on 6th popcorn r. in same
manner as top of crown, wk. to edge fol.
patt., inc. as required for frame used. For
under brim, ch. cir. as large as head size
of hat, wk. outward to edge. 1 r. pl. d. c.,
1 r. s. c. with No. 4 gr. chenille, re. pl. d. c.
and chenille s. c. rs. to edge., inc. as needed,
sew firmly over outer edge, dr. complete hat
over frame smoothly, first finish last r.
with che. (che.: chenille) s. c., sew over
under brim closely, tack around lower part
of crown.
For Trim—Wk. several different colored
pansies and leaves and dispose around hat
according to taste.
For Pansies—Ch. 3 for sm. cir., cro. 3 ch.
st. lps. into it, wk. 7 d. c. shells into e., then
2 4-ch. lps. back of these, wk. 9 d. c. in e.,
turn, cro. 1 h. d. c. in e. st. of last 2 petals
to enlarge, tip all 5 with lav. che. No. 2,
wk. yel. centers of ch. st. E. pansy may
be made with 2 col. of Shetland Floss.
Cast on 20 sts., k. 1 row, k. in ridges for
crown, increase 1 st. at each end of needle
every other row until there are 46 sts. on
needle; for back increase 1 st. every other
row until there are 50 sts. on needle. K. 1
row, p. 1 row, k. 1 row, decrease at back
1 st. every other row until there are 46 sts.
on needle, then decrease 1 st. on both ends
of needle every other row until there are
20 sts. left, bind off. On 3 needles pick up
36 sts. around crown, having 108 sts. on
needles, k. 4 inches, take 54 sts. on one
needle from half of front to half of back,
k. in ridges, after 7 ridges decrease 1 st. at
both ends of needle every row until there
are 24 sts. on needle, bind off. Other side
to correspond. Turn up both sides.
With crochet hook No. 3 crochet 1 s. c.
in every st. around sides of cap.
Crochet 2 buttons. Sew on front of cap.
Utopia Cape Sweater with Large Angora Collar and Belt No. 821 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Back—With blue cast on 4 sts.,
increase 1 st. at each end of every
row until there are 168 sts. on
needle, k. 3½ inches. On separate
needle for right end k. 41 sts., also
41 sts. from left end on separate
needle, having 84 sts. for center,
k. center: first row, k. 3, p. 3, repeat
to end of row; second row,
p. 3, k. 3, repeat to end of row;
repeat these 2 rows alternately until
there are 2½ inches, keep the 84
sts. on needle, k. 41 sts. of right
side 2½ inches, also 41 sts. of left
side 2½ inches, place all sts.—41,
84 and 41—on one needle, which
gives 168 sts. again, this forms the
opening for the belt. K., increase
1 st. at each end of every ridge
until there are 200 sts. on needle
k. 13 inches, k. 90 sts. on spare
needle, bind off 20 sts. for neck
and on other 90 sts. k. 14 inches.
On spare needle k. 42 sts. from left
side and the following 48 sts., first
row k. 3, p. 3, repeat to end of row;
second row p. 3, k. 3, repeat to
end of row, repeat these 2 rows alternately
until there are 2½ inches,
the 42 sts. on spare needle k. also
2½ inches, put the 42 sts. and the 48 sts.
on one needle, having 90 sts. on needle,
k. 3½ inches, decrease 1st st. at left end
of every row, coming to a point of center
front until there are 45 sts. left, bind off, k.
other front to correspond.
Collar—With white cast on 14 sts., increase
1 st. at each end of every row until
130 sts. on needle, k. 7 inches altogether,
k. 57 sts. on spare needle, bind off 16 sts.
for neck, and on other 57 sts. k. in ridges,
decrease 1 st. every ridge towards neck
until 3 sts. are left, bind off; other side to
correspond.
Belt—With white cast on 10 sts. (about
2½ inches), k. 32 inches, making buttonhole
at point.
Button—Make 1 button, sew on point of
belt.
Crochet 1 s. c. in every st. for 2 rows
around sweater.
Ladies’ Utopia Cape Sweater With Vest and Belt, No. 822 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
15 skeins Rose Bengal 3606 (Pink) Utopia
Germantown. 2 skeins Old Blue 3705
(Blue) Utopia Germantown. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 6. 4 pairs of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4. 1 Crochet
Hook, No. 2.
Center Back—With pink and knitting
needle No. 6 cast on 140 sts. (27 inches), k.
13 ridges, at neck increase 1 st. every 6th
row until you have added 6 sts., then increase
1 st. every other row, k. 25 ridges at
bottom of cape, decrease 1 st. every 10th
row, k. 54 ridges (14½ inches), having 183
73sts. on needle. On separate needle,
starting from the front, k. 49 sts.,
and on the other 134 sts. k. 19
ridges, decreasing 1 st. every 4th
row, k. 59 ridges, decreasing 1 st.
every other row, k. 6 ridges, decreasing
1 st. every row, having
163 ridges from the start; on other
49 sts. add 6 sts. towards the under-arm,
k. 85 ridges, making buttonhole
every 10th ridge from the
top on the right side, 8 buttonholes
altogether. With blue and knitting
needle No. 4 k. a strip 1½ inches
wide and 27 inches long). Baste
strip on wrong side of cape in the
back, showing ½ inch of blue on
the right side. Sew on with a blue
ch. st. With pink and crochet hook
make 5 rows of half sts. around
the neck and 1 row down each
front. With pink and 4 extra
needles, No. 4, pick up sts. on the
bottom of cape (in each rib and
between ribs), having 640 sts. on
needles. K. 3 ridges pink, 1 blue,
3 pink, 1 blue, 3 pink, bind off
loosely. With blue and crochet
hook make 1 row of half sts. on
inner edge of vest and cape, under-lap
the 6 sts. on vest, and finish
with a blue button.
Collar—With pink and knitting
needle No. 4 cast on 90 sts., k.
24 ridges, increasing 1 st. every
other row at each end. With 4
spare needles take up the sts. on each side
of collar and each half of back, having 24
sts. on each side needle and 45 sts. on each
back needle, increase last st. on each needle
and first st. on next needle on each row;
k. 4 pink rows, 1 blue, 3 pink, 1 blue, 3
pink, bind off loosely. Make a tassel of
blue, sew on point in back of collar.
Belt—With pink and knitting needle No.
4 cast on 200 sts., k. 3 ridges pink, 1 blue,
3 pink, 1 blue, 3 pink, make buttonhole in
2d ridge of center pink, bind off loosely.
Make 11 blue buttons.
Ladies’ Negligee Slippers of Pink Utopia Germantown Yarn and White Yarn, No. 560 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 560
1½ skeins Pink Germantown. ¼ skein
White Germantown Yarn. About 15 Pearl
beads. Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4.
With pk. y. ch. 12, wk. 8 stk. sts. on 1
side of ch., 7 on other side of ch., turn,
wk. as before, inc. 1 stk. st. in cen. of e. r.,
wk. 17 rs. back and forth, inc. 1 in e. cen.
stk. st., to have 12 sts. to cen. on 17th r.
Begin with 8 stk. sts. for 1st side, wk. 3 rs.,
inc. 1 st. e. other r. on top edge of slipper
for higher back to 15th r., break off y.,
copy directions on opposite side, leaving 5
stk. sts. on toe vamp, wk. to 15 rs., cro.
74back seam together with ch. and sl. st.,
wk. 1 r. of cord sps., 1 d. c. and 1 ch. in e.
other st. all around top of slipper, turn,
from wrong side wk. 3 rs. of loop sts., 1 r.
above the other, winding wh. y. 3 times over
finger to have nice full ruching, finish with
small scallop of pk. y., 3 ch. and 1 d. c. to
fasten down with tight sl. st., cro. wh. cord,
draw through ribbon sps., attach small pk.
tassels to e. end, wk. a flat rose of 5 petals
with wh. y., edge pk., sew pearl beads or
French knots to cen., place in desired position
on toe, sew firmly. Sew carefully to
No. 6 Madonna wool soles, either on outside
edge or inside, turning slipper over sole
from toe end.
Chain 3, 3 h. d. c. in ch., wk. h. d. c. on
every row, increase 1 st. at each end of row
until there are 29 h. d. c. to row, work 1
more point the same way. On 15th row
work 29 h. d. c., ch. 7, work 29 h. d. c. on
other point, then work 65 h. d. c. across the
row, work 14 rows with large hook and 8
rows with finer hook, with the large hook
work 54 rows more.
Next Row—Work 30 h. d. c., turn, work
another row of 30 h. d. c., decrease 1 st. at
each row for next 8 rows, this will shape
neck, then work 24 rows of 18 h. d. c. to row,
increase 1 st. at neck every third row, and
decrease at other side to have 18 h. d. c.
each row. At 21st row work in 2 buttonholes.
Skip 5 h. d. c. at front for neck, and on
the 30 h. d. c. work other side the same.
Belt—Ch. 5, work 5 h. d. c. to row to
length required, work 1 buttonhole at end.
Buttons—Ch. 3, join, work 10 d. c.
in ring, sew over mould and fasten to vest.
Six buttons at front, work 2 buttons at back
of neck and 2 for belt, 1 at each side.
Ladies’ Slumber Boots of White Utopia Germantown Yarn and Blue Shetland Floss, No. 569 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 569
¼ less than full skein of Germantown Yarn
and 2 skeins Blue Shetland Floss. 1 Crochet
Hook, No. 4. (Floss to be used
double.)
With wh. y. ch. 7, wk. 6 h. d. c. on 1 side
of ch. sts., 3 h. d. c. in last ch., 6 h. d. c.
on ch. opposite 6 sts., turn; 2d row, wk.
same st. through e. preceding st., with 3 sts.
in center for inc.; 3d r., attach 2 threads
of bl. y., wk. 1 r. s. c. in e. st., inc. in center
st. as before, turn, wk. 2d r. bl. in back ½
of top ch. in preceding r. of sts., to make
rd., no inc. in this r., attach wh. y., wk. 2 rs.
h. d. c., inc. in center st. on e. r., re. directions
for bl., and alternate the bl. and wh.
stripes (inc. in both rs. of wh. wk. and on 1
r. of bl.) to have 5 wh. and 5 bl. sections to
vamp end, 6th gr. of wh., wk. to center
st., ch. 24, wk. back h. d. c. straight along
to sole edge, now alternate bl. and wh. patt.
on 46 sts. to have 6 rds. bl., 7 grs. wh., 1 r.
of last gr. wh. on 46 sts., 1 r. 22 sts. Join
to vamp on inside of wk. with sl. sts. for
neat seam, trim boot with bl. scallop of 5
st. shells on top and fr. edges, tip with wh.
y., close fr. edges on right side with ch. and
sl. st. for pretty finish on seam, make furry
balls of bl. y., ch. ¼ yd. of wh. to e., sew 2
to top of boot and 2 at ankle.
For Sole—Wk. 12 d. c. exactly at center
back, cro. 12 rs. back and forth, dcr. 1 st.
e. end of r. on 5 rs. to shape toe, fit sole
carefully to boot top, cro. together on right
side with ch. and sl. st. all around, even
through back sts. Turn s. c. back over
edges to show attractively, copy 2d boot
carefully and tack pair together.
Girls’ Socks No. 856 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
76
Model No. 856
4 balls Utopia Scotch Heather. ½ ball Red,
same material. 5 Steel Knitting Needles,
No. 8.
With red cast on 96 sts., 24 sts. on each
of 4 needles, k. 1 row.
First, Second, Third and Fourth Round—K.
4, p. 4.
Fifth, Sixth, Seventh and Eighth Rounds—P.
4, k. 4.
Ninth, Tenth, Eleventh and Twelfth
Rounds—K. 4, p. 4.
Thirteenth Round—P.
Fourteenth Round—K. 2 sts. together, *
throw thread over needle, k. 2 sts. together,
repeat from * all around.
Fifteenth, Sixteenth, Seventeenth and
Eighteenth Rounds—Change to brown, k. 4,
p. 4.
Nineteenth, Twentieth, Twenty-first and
Twenty-second Rounds—P. 4, k. 4.
Twenty-third, Twenty-fourth, Twenty-fifth
and Twenty-sixth Rounds—K. 4, p. 4.
Twenty-seventh Round—P.
Twenty-eighth Round—K. 2 sts. together,
* over, k. 2 sts. together, repeat from * all
around.
Twenty-ninth Round—P.
Thirtieth, Thirty-first, Thirty-second and
Thirty-third Rounds—Change to red, k. 4,
p. 4.
Thirty-fourth, Thirty-fifth, Thirty-sixth
and Thirty-seventh Rounds—P. 4, k. 4.
Thirty-eighth, Thirty-ninth, Fortieth and
Forty-first Rounds—K. 4, p. 4.
K. 4 rounds. Change to brown, k. 2, p. 2,
for 4 inches, start pattern for leg, p. 5, k. 1.
Second Round—K.
Third Round—P. 5, k. 1, repeat these two
rows alternately for pattern to heel, after
knitting 4 inches of pattern decrease on 1st
needle, p. 1 for seam k. 1, k. 2 together,
k. around to last 3 sts. on 4th needle, slip
1 st., k. 1, draw slip st. over k. st., k. 1,
decrease in this way every 7th row for 10
times.
K. pattern until leg measures 10 inches.
Heel—Take 36 sts. on 1 needle for heel,
having 20 sts. on each of two needles for
instep; on the 36 sts. for heel, k. 1 row.
P. 1 row alternately for 30 rows, always
slip 1st st., turn heel as follows:
P. 20 sts., p. 2 sts. together, p. 1, turn,
slip 1, k. 4, k. 2 together, k. 1, turn, slip 1,
p. 5, p. 2 together, p. 1, turn, slip 1, k. 6,
k. 2 together k. 1, turn, continue working
in this way toward sides of the heel, decreasing
every row until all sts. are worked
up, having 20 sts. on needle.
Pick up and k. 15 sts. on left side of heel,
k. the 2 instep needles with same pattern as
on leg, pick up and k. 15 sts. on right side
of heel, divide the heel sts. on 2 needles,
25 sts. on each, k. 1 round, continue with
pattern on the two instep needles, then decrease,
k. to the last 3 sts. on 1st needle,
k. 2 together, k. 1, k. across instep, on last
77needle k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, draw slip st. over
k. st., decrease in this way every 2nd round
until there are 16 sts. left on each heel
needle, k. these 2 needles and the two instep
needles with pattern until foot measures 6
inches from heel. Toe, k. to the last 3 sts.
on 1st. needle k. 2 together, k. 1, on next
needle, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, draw the slip st.
over k. st., k. to end.
Third needle same as first needle.
Fourth needle same as second needle;
repeat this, narrowing every other row until
there are 8 sts. left, put 4 sts. on each of 2
needles, and sew together with joining st.
Girls’ Sweater No. 833 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
6–8-year Size
Model No. 833 Sweater
7 skeins Pink Utopia Germantown. 2 skeins
White Utopia Pompadour Wool. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 6. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4. 1 pair of
Steel, No. 3. 1 Crochet Hook,
No. 3.
This sweater is k. in Percale st.
Skirt—Cast on 220 sts.
First Row—K. 1 row.
Second Row—K. 9 sts., throw thread over
needle, slip 1 st., k. 2 sts. together, repeat
to end of row, k. last 9 sts., continue this
pattern for 17 inches.
K. 1 row, k. 20 sts., k. 2 sts. together 15
times, k. 25 sts. k. 2 sts. together 35 times,
k. 25 sts. k. 2 sts. together 15 times, k. 20
sts., bind off.
Back—With ivory knitting needle No. 4
cast on 65 sts., k. in ridges for 3 inches, cast
on 65 sts. for sleeve, k. across, cast on 65
sts. for other sleeve, k. in ridges for 5 inches.
On separate needle k. 89 sts., bind off 18 sts.
for neck and on other 89 sts. k. over shoulder,
front and sleeve after the following directions
and the other side to correspond.
K. 4 ridges, cast on 20 sts. for front of neck,
having 109 sts. on needle, k. until sleeve
measures 10 inches, bind off 65 sts. for
sleeve, k. 3 inches until side seam has same
length as back, bind off 23 sts. and on other
16 sts. k. down front panel for 17 inches,
bind off.
With white and crochet hook No. 3, crochet
1, s. c. all around waist, down front panels
and center fronts and side of skirt part.
Crochet another row 1 s. c. around waist,
then join panel and side of skirt with s. c.
Start from waist, crochet 5 s. c., then make
first loop, ch. 20, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in each of
the 19 ch. sts., 12 s. c. in next st., repeat loop
and s. c. until there are 9 loops. Other side
to correspond. For center front, starting
at lower part, make 7 s. c., 10 ch. (loop for
buttons), skip 4 s. c., going back in 5th st.,
fasten ch. with 1 s. c., skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in
the 9 ch. sts., 12 s. c. in next sts., repeat
loop until there are 9 loops up to neck.
Crochet 9 buttons. Sew on left front.
Collar—With ivory knitting needle No. 4
and white cast on 3 sts., k. in ridges, increase
1 st. every other row at outside of
collar until there are 30 sts. on needle, k.
in ridges for 7 inches, decrease 1 st. every
other row outside of collar until there are
3 sts. left, bind off, sew neatly around neck
of sweater.
Cuffs—With steel needle No. 3 and pink
pick up 56 sts. on right side of sleeve, k. 2,
p. 2, for 2 inches, k. in ridges for 2½ inches,
bind off loosely.
Girls’ Toque Cap No. 834 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
78
Model No. 833—Sweater Model No. 834—Toque
1 skein Pink Utopia Germantown. ½ skein
White Utopia Germantown. 1 pair of
Knitting Needles, No. 6. 1 Crochet Hook,
No. 3.
With pink cast on 100 sts., k. 1 row, throw
thread over needle, slip 1 st., k. 2 sts. together,
throw thread over needle, slip 1 st.,
k. 2 sts. together, k. this pattern throughout
cap. k. 1 inch, with white k. 1 inch,
with pink k. 11 inches.
Next Row—K. 1 st., k. 2 sts. together,
repeat to end of row.
Next Row—K. 2 sts. together, bind off,
draw cap together at top.
Sew seam together neatly. Turn band up
3 inches.
With white ch. 4, join with s. c., 2 d. c.
in every ch. st.
Next Row—1 d. c., 2 d. c. in each st., repeat
to end of row.
Next Row—1 d. c. in each of first 3 sts.,
2 d. c. in next st., repeat to end of row.
In each s. c. knot 2 threads for fringe.
Cut thread 5 inches long. Sew on top of
opening.
Button—With white ch. 3, skip 1 st., next
st. 6 s. c.
Next Row—2 s. c. in every st.
Next Row—1 s. c. in st. and 2 s. c. in
next st., continue the last row for 2 rows.
With red 1 s. c. in next 3 sts., 2 s. c. in
next st., repeat this for 3 rows. Sew button
on top of cap.
1½ skeins Blue Utopia Germantown Wool.
1 skein White Utopia Germantown Wool.
1 pair of Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 4.
5 Steel Needles, No. 6. 1 Crochet Hook,
No. 2.
With blue cast on 63 sts., k. 54 ridges
(9½ inches), decrease 1 st. at left corner,
k. 4 rows, decrease 1 st., k. 3 rows, decrease
1 st., k. 2 rows, decrease 1 st., k. 1 row, decrease
1 st., k. 2 rows, decrease 1 st., k. 3
rows, decrease 1 st., k. 4 rows, decrease 1
st., altogether 63 ridges, bind off loosely.
With white cast on 63 sts., k. 15 ridges, on
separate needle k. 24 sts., bind off 20 sts.,
and on the other 24 sts. k. in ridges, decrease
1 st. at circle every other row until
there are 15 sts., k. 20 ridges, increase 1 st.
every other row at circle until there are 24
sts., k. other side to correspond until there
are 24 sts. on needle. Cast on 20 sts., then
k. 24 sts. from other side on same needle,
having 63 sts. on needle. K. in ridges, on
left side decrease 1 st., k. 4 rows, decrease
1 st., k. 3 rows, decrease 1 st., k. 2 rows,
decrease 1 st., k. 1 row, decrease 1 st., k. 2
rows, decrease 1 st., k. 3 rows, decrease
1 st., k. 4 rows, decrease 1 st., having 63
ridges altogether from start.
Band—With blue and 4 steel needles pick
up 120 sts. around circle of cap, k. 1, p. 1,
for 2½ inches, bind off loosely. At front
of cap bend over corner 4½ inches.
Button—Cover 1 large button, sew on at
top corner of hat.
Crochet lower and upper part on 4 sides
with s. c., st. together.
3 skeins Blue Utopia Germantown. ½ skein
White Utopia Germantown. 1 pair of
Ivory Knitting Needles, No. 6.
Cast on 50 sts., k. in ridges for 3 inches.
With white k. 2 rows (1 ridge), throw
thread over needle, k. 2 sts. together, throw
thread over needle, k. 2 sts. together, repeat
to end of row, then k. 1 row, with blue k.
3 ridges, with white k. 1 stripe until there
are 4 white stripes with 3 blue ridges between,
k. with blue in ridges for 36 inches,
then k. same border, 4 white stripes as before.
Finish both ends with a 4-inch fringe.
Knot 2 strands into every st.
Back—With knitting needles No. 4 and
coral cast on 86 sts. (12 inches).
First Row—K. 1 row.
Second Row—K. 1, p. 1, k. 1. p. 1, repeat
to end of row, ending row k. 1.
Third Row—P. 1, k. 1, p. 1, k. 1, repeat
to end of row, ending row p. 1.
Fourth Row—K. 1, p 1, k. 1, p. 1, repeat
to end of row, ending row k. 1.
Fifth Row—P. 1, k. 1. p. 1, k. 1, repeat
to end of row, ending row p. 1.
Sixth Row—K. 1, p. 1, k. 1, p. 1, repeat
to end of row, ending row k. 1.
Seventh Row—K. 1 row with gray.
Eighth Row—K. 1 row with gray to form
ridge.
Repeat these 8 rows throughout sweater,
k. same pattern 8 times (7 inches).
Belt—With steel needles and gray k. 1,
p. 1, repeat to end of row, ending row
k. 1. Next row, p. 1, k. 1, repeat to end of
row, ending row p. 1.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately for 4
rows, change to coral 4 rows, change to
gray 4 rows, change to coral 10 rows, change
to gray 4 rows, change to coral 4 rows,
change to gray 4 rows, altogether 3 inches.
With ivory knitting needles No. 4 k. same
pattern 5 times (4½ inches). With coral
cast on 50 sts. for sleeve (7 inches), k. 1 row,
cast on 50 sts. for other sleeve, k. same pattern
806 times (5 inches). On separate needle
k. 83 sts., bind off 20 sts. for back of neck
and on other 83 stitches over shoulder, front
and sleeve after the following directions and
the other side to correspond. K. pattern
6 more times (5 inches), altogether 10 inches
for sleeve, increase 1 st. on front of neck
every 4th row, leaving 93 sts. on needle,
bind off 50 sts. for sleeve, k. 6 rows more,
k. the 43 sts. on a spare needle, k. the other
side to correspond. Slip the 43 sts. to the
other 43 sts., having 86 sts. on needle. K.
same pattern 5 times to belt. K. belt same
as back with steel needles. K front same
length as side seam on back, bind off.
Cuffs—With gray and steel needles pick
up 50 sts. on right side, k. 1, p. 1, for 4 rows,
change to coral 4 rows, change to gray 4
rows, change to coral 10 rows, change to
gray 4 rows, change to coral 4 rows, change
to gray 4 rows. With ivory knitting needles
and coral k. 1, p. 1, for 1 inch, k. 5 ridges
with gray, bind off loosely.
Collar—With gray cast on 40 sts., k. in
ridges for 2 inches. On separate needle k.
20 sts., and on other 20 sts. k. in ridges
for 8 inches, k. other side to correspond,
join together at back and sew neatly to
sweater.
Buttons—Ch. 3 sts., turn, skip 1 st., 6 s. c.
in next st. Next row, 2 s. c. in every st.,
altogether 12 sts. Make 15 buttons without
moulds. Sew around collar one inch
apart.
With gray cast on 90 sts., k. 1, p. 1, for
4 rows, with coral k. 4 rows, with gray k.
4 rows, with coral k. 10 rows, with gray k. 4
rows, with coral k. 4 rows, with gray k. 4
rows; this finishes band; then k. 2 inches.
With coral k. 6 rows, with gray k. 1 row,
p. 1 row, with coral k. 6 rows, with gray
k. 1, p. 1, continue pattern until there are
6 coral stripes (6 inches). With coral bind
off 45 sts., with gray k. 1 row, k. the other
45 sts., bind off. Sew cap together, turn
down point at each side and fasten with button.
Ch. 54 sts., turn, 53 s. c. in every ch. st.,
turn, 53 s. c. in the 53 s. c. of previous row,
work 25 rows without turning.
Twenty-sixth Row—12 s. c., 29 h. d. c.,
thread in front of needle, 12 s. c.
Twenty-seventh Row—10 s. c., 33 h. d. c.,
10 s. c.
Twenty-eighth Row—8 s. c., 37 h. d. c.,
8 s. c.
Twenty-ninth Row—6 s. c., 41 h. d. c.,
6 s. c.
Thirtieth Row—4 s. c., 45 h. d. c., 4 s. c.
Thirty-first Row—2 s. c., 49 h. d. c., 2 s. c.
Thirty-second Row—53 h. d. c. for 12
rows, decrease 1 st. every other row at center
back for next 10 rows and decrease 1 st.
every row of next 4 rows, having 44 h. d. c.,
work 19 rows straight, at 78th row increase
811 st. at center front and draw stitch tight at
back.
Seventy-ninth Row—Increase 2 sts. at
center front and tight at back.
Eightieth Row—Increase 2 sts. at front.
Eighty-first Row—Increase 2 sts. at front
and finish with 2 rows of s. c.
Boy’s Sweater No. 830 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
6-year size
Model No. 830
3½ hanks Utopia Scotch Heather Knitting
Yarn. ½ hank Red Utopia Scotch Knitting
Yarn. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 4. 1 Crochet Hook, No. 2.
Back—With khaki and ivory knitting
needle No. 4 cast on 71 sts. (14 inches),
k. 3 ridges, with red k. 1 ridge, with khaki
k. 2 ridges with red, k. 1 ridge with khaki,
k. 2 ridges. Next row—K. 5, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1,
repeat to end of row. Next row—K. 1, row.
Next row—K. 5, p. 1, k. 5, p. 1, repeat to
end of row. Next row—K. 1, row. Repeat
these last 4 rows alternately throughout
sweater, k. 56 ridges (14½ inches). Cast on
60 sts. for sleeve, k. across back, cast on
60 sts. for other sleeve, k. 25 ridges (5
inches). On separate needle k. 82 sts., slip
27 sts. for neck on spare needle to use for
collar; on other 82 sts. k. same pattern over
shoulder and front, cast on 18 sts. for front
of neck, k. 25 ridges (15½ inches), having
100 sts. on needle, bind off 60 sts. for sleeve,
k. 10 more ridges; the other 40 sts. slip on
separate needle. K. other front to correspond,
slip the 40 sts. to the other 40 sts.,
having 80 sts. on needle, k. front seam same
length as back with same border, bind off.
Cuffs—Pick up 40 sts. on right side of
sleeve, k. 8 ridges, then k. with red 1 ridge,
with khaki 2 ridges, with red 1 ridge, with
khaki 3 ridges.
Collar—On the 27 sts. on back of collar
pick up 5 sts. on both sides, having 37 sts.
82on needle, k. 13 ridges, with red k. 1 ridge,
with khaki k. 3 ridges, with red k. 1 ridge,
with khaki k. 3 ridges, with red crochet
1 s. c. in every st. for 2 rows around collar
front of neck and 3 inches down front, turn
over lap.
Belt—Cast on 12 sts., k. in ridges for 25
inches, make buttonhole in center and 6
ridges apart another buttonhole, decrease
1 st. on both sides of needle every other
row until there are 3 sts. left, bind off. With
red crochet 1 s. c. in every st. around belt.
Make 3 red buttons; 2 for belt, 1 for
front.
Pocket—Cast on 17 sts., k. 13 ridges,
with red k. 1 ridge, with khaki k. 2 ridges,
with red k. 1 ridge, with khaki k. 2 ridges,
bind off. Sew neatly on right side of
sweater.
Boy’s Sweater No. 831 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
8 to 10 year size
Model No. 831
3½ hanks Utopia Scotch Heather Knitting
Yarn. ½ hank Green Utopia Scotch Knitting
Yarn. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 6. 2 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 3.
Back—With gray cast on 100 sts., k. 4
ridges or 8 rows. Next row—K. 1 st., throw
thread over needle, slip 1 st., k. 2 sts. together,
throw thread over needle, slip 1 st.,
k. 2 sts. together, repeat this pattern (Percale
st.) to end of row. Continue Percale st.
throughout sweater for 20 inches. On separate
needle k. 38 sts., bind off 24 sts. for
neck, on other 38 sts. k. over shoulder and
front; increase 1 st. at front of neck every
other row until 17 sts. have been added,
the last 10 sts. k. in ridges for border. On
left front make first buttonhole in 4th ridge
and 5 inches apart another buttonhole, having
5 buttonholes altogether. Work other
front to correspond, without buttonholes.
K. side seam same length as back, including
4 ridges.
Sleeve—Cast on 60 sts., k. pattern for 4
inches, decrease 1 st. at each end of needle
every 6th row until there are 59 sts. on
needle, k. pattern for 12 inches. With No. 3
needle k. 2, p. 2 for 2 inches. K. 12 ridges
(2½ inches), with green k. 4 ridges, bind
off, turn over for cuff.
Collar—Cast on 3 sts., k. in ridges, increase
1 st. at one side every other row until
there are 20 sts. on needle, k. in ridges
for 9 inches, decrease 1 st. every other row
same as other end until there are 3 sts. left,
bind off. With green and 3 needles, No. 3,
pick up 20 sts. on slant side on first needle,
45 sts. on 2d needle and 20 sts. on 3d needle,
k. 1 row, next row increase first and last st.
every other row on the 3 needles until there
are 4 ridges, bind off. Sew neatly to sweater.
Pockets—Cast on 23 sts., k. same pattern
for 5 inches, k. 4 ridges, with green k. 4
ridges, bind off.
Sew sleeve in coat to seam at under-arm.
Sew on 5 buttons.
Boy’s Sweater No. 835 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
83
Model No. 835
4 skeins Utopia Scotch Heather Knitting
Yarn. ½ skein Brown Utopia Scotch
Knitting Yarn. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 6. 1 Crochet Hook, No. 3.
Back—Cast on 90 sts., k. 3 ridges, with
brown k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 2 ridges, with
brown k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 2 ridges, k. 2,
p. 1, repeat to end of row, then p. 2, k. 1,
repeat to end of row, then p. 1 row, then
k. 1 row, repeat these last 4 rows alternately
throughout sweater until there are 38 blocks
(15 inches). Cast on 75 sts. for sleeve, k.
across, cast on 75 sts. for other sleeve, k.
same pattern for 10 blocks (5 inches). On
separate needle k. 107 sts., leave 25 sts. on
separate needle for collar and on other 107
sts. k. over shoulder, front and sleeves after
the following directions and the other side
to correspond. Cast on 22 sts. at front of
neck, k. 1 block, make first buttonhole and
5 blocks apart another buttonhole until there
are 3 buttonholes. K. 10 blocks (5 inches)
for other half of sleeve, bind off 75 sts. for
sleeve; on the other 55 sts. k. 3 more blocks,
slip the 55 sts. on a separate needle, k. other
side, then slip the 55 sts. to the other 55 sts.,
having 110 sts. on needle, k. side seam same
length as back with same border.
Collar—Pick up 15 sts. on both front sides
of neck, slip the 25 sts. to the 15 sts., having
55 sts. on needle, k. 10 ridges, with brown
k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 2 ridges, with brown
k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 3 ridges.
Cuffs—Pick up 40 sts., k. 6 ridges, with
brown k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 2 ridges, with
brown k. 1 ridge, with gray k. 3 ridges,
bind off.
For Pockets—Cast on 20 sts., k. 22 ridges,
with brown k. 1 ridge, with gray decrease
1 st. on both ends of needle every other
row, k. 2 ridges, with brown k. 1 ridge,
with gray k. 4 ridges, until there are 2 sts.
left, bind off.
Buttons—With brown cast on 6 sts., increase
1 st. every other row on both sides
until there are 12 sts. on needle, decrease 1
st. every other row on both sides until there
are 6 sts. left. Make 7 buttons. Sew 1 to
each pocket lap and 3 down front.
With crochet hook crochet 1 s. c. in every
st. around collar, cuffs and pockets and
down front on buttonhole side.
1 hank Gray Utopia Scotch Knitting Yarn.
¼ hank Dark Blue Utopia Scotch Knitting
Yarn. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 4. 1 pair of Steel Needles,
No. 5. 1 Crochet Hook, No. 3.
Cast on 20 sts., k. 1 row, k. in ridges for
crown, increase 1 st. at each end of needle
every other row until there are 46 sts. on
needle; for back increase 1 st. every other
row until there are 50 sts. on needle. K. 1
row, p. 1 row, k. 1 row, decrease at back
1 st. every other row until there are 46 sts.
on needle, then decrease 1 st. on both ends
of needle every other row until there are
20 sts. left, bind off. For side cast on 15
sts., k. in ridges, increase 1 st. every 5th
row at top until there are 27 sts. on needle,
k. 3 ridges straight, decrease 1 st. every
5th row until there are 15 sts. on needle,
then increase 1 st. every 5th row until there
are 27 sts. on needle, decrease 1 st. every
845th row until there are 15 sts. on needle.
Crochet together crown to side with dark
blue. Crochet 2 rows s. c. in every st.
around top of cap, with gray crochet 1 s. c.
in every st. around lower part of cap.
With crochet hook ch. 30 sts., turn, skip
1 st., 1 s. c. in every st., turn, slip the first
3 sts., make 1 s. c. in every st., taking back
loop only, leave the last 7 s. c. sts., ch. 5,
turn, skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in every st., taking
back loop only to end of row, turn, slip 3
sts., 1 s. c. in every st. taking back loop
only, leaving 7 s. c., make 5 ch., turn, skip
1 st., 1 s. c. in every st. taking back loop
only, turn, slip 3 sts., 1 s. c. in every st.,
leaving 7 s. c., ch. 5 sts., turn, skip 1 st.,
1 s. c. in every st. to end of row. Sew on
to side of cap. Sew button at point.
Cast on 5 sts., k. in ridges until about 11
inches, make bow. Sew to back of cap.
Cast on 72 sts., 24 sts. on each of the
3 needles. K. 2, p. 2, for 3 inches.
First and Second Rows—K.
Third and Fourth Rows—P. 2, k. 1.
Repeat these 4 rows 15 times, then decrease
3 sts. always on the same needle,
k. 9 blocks, decrease 3 sts., k. 6 blocks,
decrease 3 sts., k. 7 blocks, decrease 3 sts.,
k. 7 blocks. Leg must measure 14 inches.
Heel—Slip 5 sts. from the 2 needles on
to the instep needle, having 15 sts. on each
of the 2 needles for the heel. Slip 1 st.,
k. 13 sts., pl. for seam, k. 14 sts., and slip
1 st.
85Second Row—Slip 1 st., k. 13 sts., p. 1 st.,
k. 14 sts., slip 1 st.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 2 inches, turn, slip 1 st., p. 17 sts., p. 2
sts. together, p. 1 st., turn work, slip 1 st.
k. 5 sts., k. 2 sts. together, k. 1 st., turn,
slip 1 st., p. 6 sts., p. 2 sts. together, p. 1 st.,
turn, slip 1 st., k. 7 sts., k. 2 sts. together,
k. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st., p. 8 sts., p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st., k. 9 sts.,
k. 2 sts. together, k. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st.,
p. 10 sts., p. 2 sts. together, p. 1 st., turn,
slip 1 st., k. 11 sts., k. 2 sts. together, k. 1 st.,
turn, slip 1 st., p. 12 sts., p. 2 sts. together,
p. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st., k. 13 sts., k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st., p. 15 sts.,
p. 2 sts. together, p. 1 st., turn, slip 1 st.,
k. 15 sts., k. 2 sts. together, k. 1 st., pick up
and k. 13 sts. on left side of heel, k. across
the front, then pick up and k. 13 sts. on
right side of heel, divide the 15 sts. on the
2 heel needles, having 20 sts. on one and
21 sts. on the other; k. 2 rounds. On next
round k. together the 2 last sts. and the 2
first sts. of the heel needle, decrease in this
manner on every 3d round until there are
15 sts. on each needle, k. around for 3 inches.
Toe—K. 6 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat
all around, k. 6 rounds plain, k. 5 sts., k. 2
sts. together, repeat all around, k. 5 rounds
plain, k. 4 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat
all around, k. 4 rounds plain, k. 3 sts., k. 2
sts. together, repeat all around, k. 3 rounds
plain, k. 2 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat all
around, k. 2 rounds plain, k. 2 sts., k. 2 sts.
together, repeat all around, k. 1 round plain.
Draw yarn through remaining sts. and fasten
on wrong side.
Cast on 60 sts., 20 sts. on each of the 3
needles, k. 2, p. 2, for 3 inches, k. 1 row
plain, at the end of the last round increase
1 st., k. 28 sts. plain for inside of hand and
on other sts. p. 2, k. 2 for 2 rows, then reverse
pattern, k. 2, p. 2 for 2 rows to form
a small block, k. this pattern on outside of
glove until fingers start. Next row—start
to increase for the thumb, k. to within the
last 5 sts. of the end of row, increase 1 st.,
k. the next 3 sts., increase 1 st., k. 4 rows
plain without increasing, k. to the last 7 sts.,
increase 1 st., k. 5 sts., increase 1 st., k. 4
rows plain, increase in this way every 5th
row until there are 16 sts. between the widening,
k. 30 rounds without increasing, slip
the 16 sts. and 2 more on each side of thumb
on a thread (20 sts. altogether for thumb).
Cast on 5 sts., continue the work and pattern
until there are 4 inches, k. from where
blocks start. First finger—k. 9, slip all the
sts. on a thread except the last seven. Use
3 needles, cast on 4 sts. to the 9 sts. knitted,
k. 7 sts., k. 26 rounds, then decrease, * k. 2
sts. together at the beginning of each needle,
next row plain, repeat from * until there are
6 sts. on needle, draw wool through these
sts. and fasten on wrong side. Second finger—pick
up the next 7 sts., cast on 3 sts.,
on separate needle take the last 8 sts. off
thread, pick up the 4 sts. cast on for first
finger, work 3 rows larger than first, then
decrease the same way, k. 2 sts. together
at the beginning of each needle every other
row. Third finger—take 7 sts. from inside
of hand, cast on 2 sts., take the last 8 sts.
off the thread, pick up 5 sts. from inside of
second finger, k. same as the first finger.
Fourth finger—pick up the remaining 16 sts.,
pick up 4 sts. from inside of third finger,
k. 1 round, decrease twice on the 4 sts., k. 22
rounds, then decrease as before.
Thumb—Pick up the 5 sts. which were
cast on for the hand, k. 22 rows, then decrease
same as before described.
Cast on 76 sts., 20 sts. on each of 2 needles,
18 sts. on each of two needles, join, k. 2,
p. 2 for 3 inches, k. plain for 2 inches, p.
the 1st st. on 1st needle for seam. On
1st needle p. 1, k. 1, k. 2 sts. together, on
4th needle k. to the last 3 sts., slip 1, k. 1,
draw slip st. over k. st., k. 1 st., decrease
in this way 4 times every 15th row. K. until
leg measures 8 inches.
Heel—Take 32 sts. on one needle, leave
18 sts. on each needle for instep, on the
32 sts. k. 1 row, p. 1 row alternately for
16 rows, always slip the 1st st., turn heel
on wrong side, slip 1 st., p. 18, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1, turn, skip 1, k. 5, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, turn, slip 1, p. 6, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1, turn, slip 1, k. 7, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, turn, slip 1, p. 8, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1 st., turn, slip 1, k. 9, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, turn, slip 1, p. 10, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1, turn, slip 1, k. 11, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, turn, slip 1, p. 12, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1, turn, slip 1, k. 13, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, turn, slip 1 st., p. 14, p. 2 sts.
together, p. 1 st., turn, slip 1, k. 15, k. 2 sts.
together, k. 1, until there are 18 sts. on one
needle. Pick up and k. 8 sts. on left side
of heel, k. the two instep needles, pick up
and knit 8 stitches on right side of heel,
having 17 sts. on each heel needle,
k. 1 round, on next round decrease every 2d
row, on 1st needle k. the last 2 sts. together,
work across instep needles on 4th
needle, k. 1, slip 1, k. 1, draw the slip st.
over the k. st., decrease in this way until
there are 15 sts. on each needle, k. plain
for 2 inches.
Toe—On 1st needle k. to the last 3 sts.,
k. 2 sts. together, k. 1; 2d needle, k. 1, slip 1,
k. 1, draw slip st. over k. st.
Third needle same as 1st needle.
Fourth needle same as 2d needle.
K. 3 rounds even, next round decrease, 2
rounds even, decrease next round, 1 round
even, then decrease every round until there
are 8 sts. left, divide the 8 sts. on two
needles and sew together with joining st.
Sleeves—Cast on 6 sts. on each end for
5 times, making 126 sts. in all. K. 20 ribs.
For Shoulder—K. 51 sts. on slip on safety
pin. K. 24 sts. for back of neck and slip
these sts. on safety pin, knit the remaining
51 sts. for 8 ribs. Take the 51 sts. off safety
87pin and knit 8 ribs. Then cast on 24 sts.
for front and knit all sts. on one needle.
Knit 20 ribs, then bind off 6 sts. at the
beginning of every needle for 5 times, having
66 sts. for front. Knit to correspond
with back and bind off loosely on wrong
side.
For Cuffs—With one size smaller needle
pick up 42 sts. and knit 3, seam 3 for 3
inches. Bind off loosely on right side.
For Neck—With large needles pick up 36
sts. on back. Knit 1 row, then make a row
of holes as follows: K. 1, * thread over,
k. 2 together, repeat from * across row.
K. 1 row and bind off loosely on wrong
side.
K. other half of neck to correspond and
sew together on the shoulder. Sew up under
arm seams.
Back—Cast on 60 sts., k. for 11 inches.
For sleeves cast on 6 sts. on each end for
5 times, making 120 sts. in all. K. 20 ribs.
For Shoulder—K. 48 sts. and slip on safety
pin. K. 24 sts. for back of neck and slip
these sts. on safety pin, k. the remaining
48 sts. for 5 ribs, then at neck end k. 18 sts.,
the remaining sleeve sts. slip on extra
needle. K. back, then decrease 1 st. at the
beginning and end of row every 4th row
or every other rib until there are 8 sts.
Make buttonhole as follows: K. 2, bind off
4, k. 2. In coming back cast on 4 sts. which
were bound off on previous row. K. 2 ribs.
Slip these on pin. K. other shoulder to correspond.
Take the sleeve sts. off extra needle, and
cast on 18 for shoulder, 24 sts. for neck,
and 18 for other shoulder, k. the remaining
sleeve sts., having 120 sts. in all. K. 20 ribs,
then bind off 6 sts. at the beginning of
every needle for 5 times, having 60 sts. for
front. K. to correspond with back. Bind
off loosely on wrong side.
For Cuffs—Pick up 42 sts. and k. 1, s. 1,
for 1½ inches. Then with smaller needles,
No. 3, k. in garter stitch for 3 inches. Then
with angora k. 1 row and bind off. With
angora pick up sts. around tabs and across
the back of neck, and around other tab, and
bind off loosely. Forming one rib across
front and also at bottom of sweater, taking
it up for 1 inch on sides.
1½ skeins Rose or Blue Utopia Shetland
Floss. 1 ball Angora. 1 pair of Ivory
Knitting Needles, No. 6. 1 pair of Ivory
Knitting Needles, No. 4.
Back—Cast on 65 sts. (8½ inches).
First Row—* K. 1, p. 1, repeat from *,
ending row k. 1.
88Second Row—* P. 1, k. 1, repeat from *,
ending row p. 1.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 28 rows or 4 inches.
Belt—Cast on 1 st., having 66 sts. on
needle.
First Row—* K. 2, p. 2, repeat from *,
ending row k. 2.
Second Row—* P. 2, k. 2, repeat from *,
ending row p. 2.
Repeat these 2 rows alternately until there
are 20 rows or 3 inches, decrease 1 st., k.
5 sts. to start border, then repeat first and
second row alternately to within. Cast on
5 sts. on the needle, which are k. for 58 rows
(8 inches) from waistline. K. following
pattern on 23 sts. for one shoulder, bind
off 21 sts. and on other 23 sts. k. following
pattern: * K. 5 sts., p. 1, k. 1 for 13
sts., k. 5 sts.
Second Row—K. 5, k. 1, p. 1, repeat from
*, ending row 2. Repeat these last 2 rows
alternately until there are 40 rows. Slip 23
sts. on a spare needle, start at neck of
shoulder on 23 sts., k. following pattern
and directions from other front, then cast
on 21 sts., taking up the other shoulder.
K. following pattern 18 sts., then k. 31 sts.
(starting square border in front), continue
following pattern to opposite side. Repeat
following pattern until there are 5 ridges
for front border, then make the rest of the
front to correspond with the back.
Collar—With angora and knitting needle
No. 4 cast on 15 sts., make 60 ridges. Sew
neatly to sweater.
Model No. 761—Cap Model No. 760—Coat Model No. 762—Bootees
Made in Two Fold Utopia Saxony Yarn. 2
skeins of Blue. 2½ skeins of White.
Pattern St.—Cast on an even number of
sts. Knit 1 row plain.
Next Row—* Knit 1, k. next st., taking
thread of previous row, * repeat to end of
row.
Third Row—Same as second row, taking
care that you do not take double thread or
rows together of previous row. The uneven
numbered st. should always be the
plain purl st., the even numbered st. should
always be the double row st. This is when
an even number of sts. are used. When
uneven number sts. are used it is the opposite;
therefore you will have to watch your
pattern that the chain and purl sts. are over
each other.
Sweater—Cast on 60 sts. for bottom of
sweater, k. pattern st. as above described
for 58 ribs or 11 inches.
Sleeves—Cast on 36 sts. on both sides, k.
pattern across for 52 rows or 26 ribs. K.
56 sts., bind off 20 sts. for back of neck,
k. on other side 10 rows or 5 ribs across
shoulder. Cast on 20 sts. for front, on these
74 sts. k. pattern for 42 rows or 21 ribs to
complete sleeve. Bind off 36 sts., on remaining
sts. k. front as long as back, finish
other side in same manner.
Border Across Bottom—Pick up sts. on
right side of sweater, k. 1, 0, k. 2 together,
* 0 k. 2 together, * repeat to end of row,
having an uneven number of sts. on needle.
K. 5 rows plain, k. 3 rows pattern sts., k.
3 rows plain, bind off on right side. Crochet
side seams and sleeves together on
wrong side, work slip st. down right and
up left side of front.
Cuff—Pick up 52 sts. on sleeve, k. 1, 0,
k. 2 together, * 0, k. 2 together. * Repeat
to end of row, k. 1 row plain, k. 18 sts.,
k. 2 together 8 times, k. 18, k. 2 rows plain,
89next 4 rows k. 1, p. 1, next row k. 1, 0, k. 2
together, * 0, k. 2 together, * to end of row.
Next 5 rows plain k. 3 rows pattern st.,
k. 3 rows plain. Bind off, sew up cuff on
right side as cuff turns back.
Collar—Pick up 20 sts. on each side of
front, 6 sts. across shoulder, 20 across back,
having 72 sts. on needle. Drop first and
last sts. of these 72 sts. This space is used
later for border around collar.
On the 60 sts. left on needle, using white
wool, k. 1, 0 k. 2 together, * 0 k. 2 together,
* k. plain for 18 ribs on both sides,
break wool.
Border—On right side of collar pick up
19 sts. on both ends of collar, then k. 1, 0
k. 2 tog., * 0 k. 2 tog. to corner (for mitring
corners), mark with different color wool
around next k. 1, 0 k. 1, 0 k. 2 tog., * 0
k. 2 tog., * to next corner, ending with
k. 2 tog., 0 k. 1, 0 k. 2 tog., * 0 k. 2 tog.
to end of row, ending with k. 1, k. 4 rows
plain.
Third and fifth rows being mitring or increasing
rows. Sixth, seventh and eighth
rows pattern st., keeping to mitring in seventh
row. The even numbered rows you
knit the thread over of previous row.
Put Picot edge (as described with cap)
around cuffs, collar and down front. For
collar start on up left side 4 inches down
around collar and 4 inches down right, break
wool. Around sweater start on left side
where you start for collar to right side
where you broke wool. Four buttons ½
inch in size, wooden moulds. Four ch.,
16 d. c., join with slip st., 1 s. c. in each st.,
decrease until mould is covered.
Cord—Four threads in ch. sts. Trim as
illustrated.
Eight ch., skip 1, ch. 1, 1 s. c. in each of
next 7 ch., 1 ch., turn.
Second Row—1 s. c. in first 3 s. c., 3 in
center st., 1 s. c. in last 3 sts., taking both
loops for entire lower part of bootee, 1 ch.,
turn.
Repeat 2 rows till 13 s. c. are on each
side of center 3 sts. (29 sts.) or 12 rows;
next row 1 s. c. in each of first 11 s. c., 1 ch.,
turn, repeat this row till 19 ribs or 38 rows
have been made.
Crochet sides together with slip st. without
breaking wool. Start upper part with
1 s. c. in first rib on right side of boot,
2 ch., 1 s. c. in same rib, 1 s. c. in next rib,
1 s. c. next rib, 2 ch., 1 s. c. in same rib,
* repeat to last rib, 2 ch., turn, * 1 d. c.,
1 ch., 1 d. c. in each space of 2 ch. of previous
rows.
Third Row—2 ch., turn, 1 d. c. between
first and second space, * 1 d. c., 1 ch., 1 d. c.
between each of following spaces, ending
with 1 d. c. on 2 ch. of previous row.
Fourth Row—2 ch., 1 d. c. between d. c.
and first space, * 1 d. c., 1 ch., 1 d. c. * between
each of following spaces.
Repeat fourth row 3 more times, work
down sides, 2 ch., 1 s. c. in second row, *
2 ch., 1 s. c. in next row, * repeat 4 times
more, slip st. across front part of shoe, repeat
2 ch., 1 s. c. up on other side.
Trim sides and top of shoe with blue as
follows:
Start on right side in corner, 1 s. c., 2
d. c. in first 2 ch., * 1 s. c. on next s. c. of
previous row, 2 ch., 2 d. c. in same st., skip
1 s. c., * repeat to top of shoe; work this
down on other side, top of shoe work in
each space 1 s. c., 2 ch., 2 d. c.
Make draw strings of both colors, 1
strand, fasten small tassels to each end.
Sole—7 ch., skip 1 ch., 1 s. c. next 6 sts.
Second row—2 s. c. in first and last st. for
next 2 rows, 10 in all, 4 rows even, next
row decrease first and last st. 8 sts., 6 rows
even, next row increase first and last st. 10,
12 rows even, decrease next 2 rows, leaving
6 in last row, always taking both loops.
Made of 1 skein White and 1 skein Utopia
Blue Saxony.
See description for pattern st. in directions
for sweater.
Cast on 77 sts., k. 5 rows plain, next 3
rows k. pattern st., next 4 rows k. plain.
Thirteenth Row—K. 1, 0 k. 2 tog., * 0 k. 2
tog., * repeat to end of row.
Fourteenth and Sixteenth Rows—K. 1,
p. 1, ending with k. 1.
Fifteenth and Seventeenth Rows—P. 1,
k. 1, ending with p. 1.
Eighteenth to Twenty-second Rows—K.
plain.
Twenty-third to Fiftieth Rows—K. pattern
st. (2¼ inches).
Fifty-first Row—K. pattern st. for 72 sts.,
leave 5 sts. on needle, turn.
Fifty-second Row—K. pattern st. for 67
sts., leave 5 sts. on other needle, turn.
Fifty-third Row—K. pattern st. for 72 sts.
to end of needle, turn.
Fifty-fourth Row—K. pattern st. for 77
sts. to end of needle, turn.
Fifty-fifth Row—K. pattern st. for 67 sts.,
leave 10 sts. on needle, turn.
Fifty-sixth Row—K. pattern st. for 57 sts.,
leave 10 sts. on other needle, turn.
Fifty-seventh Row—K. pattern st. for 67
sts. to end of needle, turn.
Fifty-eighth Row—K. pattern st. for 77
sts. to end of needle, turn.
Fifty-ninth Row—K. pattern st. for 62 sts.,
leave 15 sts. on needle, turn.
Sixtieth Row—K. pattern st. for 47 sts.,
leave 15 sts. on other needle, turn.
Sixty-first Row—K. pattern st. for 62 sts.,
to end of needle, turn.
Sixty-second Row—K. pattern st. for 77
sts. to end of needle, turn.
Sixty-third Row—K. pattern st. for 57
sts., leave 20 sts. on needle, turn.
Sixty-fourth Row—K. pattern st. for 37
sts., leave 20 sts. on other needle, turn.
Sixty-fifth Row—K. pattern st. for 57 sts.
to end of needle, turn.
Sixty-sixth Row—K. pattern st. for 77 sts.
to end of needle, turn.
Sixty-seventh Row—K. pattern st. for 52
sts., leave 25 sts. on needle, turn.
91Sixty-eighth Row—K. pattern st. for 27
sts.
Sixty-ninth Row—K. pattern st. for 52
sts.
Seventieth to Seventy-second Row, inclusive—K.
pattern st. for 77 sts.
Bind off 28 sts., k. 21 sts., bind off 28 sts.,
break thread. On center 21 sts. k. pattern
sts. for 2 rows, knitting last st. and first
bound off st. together, taking both threads
of the bound off st., also knitting first 2 sts.
plain, turn. Continue pattern st. for the
whole back of cap until all sts. are caught
together.
Bottom Border—Pick up sts. on side
pieces, 86 sts. in all. On these sts. k. 1, p. 1,
starting from right side of cap for 5 rows.
Sixth Row—K. 1, 0 k. 2 tog., * 0 k. 2 tog.,
* to end of row, ending with k. 1.
Seventh Row—K. 31 sts. plain, then increase
in every st. across back portion, k. 31
sts. plain. (Increase by k. back thread of
st. Do not slip st. from left into right
needle until you have also knitted front
thread of same st.)
Eighth to Twelfth Row—Knit plain 16 to
18 rows, k. plain, bind off, break thread,
13 to 15 rows pattern sts.
Turn front or face border back and pick
up every knitted st. and sts. down bottom
border. K. plain across border, then k. 1,
0 k. 2 tog., * 0 k. 2 tog., * to other side
or bottom border, then k. plain to end of
row.
Next 3 rows k. plain, bind off, break
thread.
When making Picot edge across bottom
of cap catch the part to turn back and cap
portion together. The Picot edge is made
all around cap and outside edge of turned-back
portion.
Picot edge is made as follows: 1 s. c. in
first st., 3 ch., 1 s. c. in s. c. just made,
skip 1 st., 1 s. c. in next 2 sts. At corners
do not skip st., but make the 2 s. c. in 1 st.
Trim with ribbon or cord and tassels as
illustrated.
Cord is made of 8 threads—4 of each
color.
Gentleman’s Sleeping Boots of Print Color and Blue Utopia Shetland Floss, No. 570 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Design No. 570
4 skeins Print Color Yarn. 1 skein Blue
(Alice Blue best). Crochet Hook, No. 4.
Work to be done with double thread.
With 2 threads of pr. col. ch. 7, wk. 15
h. d. c. all around, 6 on e. side and 3 sts.
in 7th ch., cro. through top ch. on e. st.,
wk. 13 rs. for vamps, inc. in center st. of e.
r., 14th r. wk. to 19th st., which should be
in center of r., ch. 21 sts. to make 40 sts.
for height of boot, wk. 19 rs. on 40 sts.,
last r. 20 sts., close seam at side, cro. small
scallop of double bl. w., 3 ch. and 1 d. c.
caught down with t. sl. st. e. 3d st., all around
top and sides, close boot with 2 sets of bl.
cords and tassels, sew to position at e. edge
as needed, tie into neat bowknots.
For Sole—Cro. 2 or 3 rs. of d. c. all around
lower edge of boot very closely, start from
center back and join there at end of e. r.,
fold on right side and cro. the 2 edges together,
copy dir. for 2d boot. Size may be
regulated as required.
Man’s Utopia Knitted Coat Sweater with Cuffs and Pockets No. 1009 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
92
Sizes 36–38
Model No. 1009
6½ hanks Brown Utopia Scotch Knitting
Worsted. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 4. 1 pair of Ivory Knitting
Needles, No. 2. 1 pair of Steel Knitting
Needles, No. 12.
This sweater is k. in ribs of k. 1, p. 1,
which is the pattern to be k. throughout
sweater. The band is k. separate and sewed
on to coat.
Back—Cast on 126 sts., k. following pattern
for 27 inches. On separate needle slip
38 sts., bind off the next 50 sts. for neck,
and on the other 38 sts. k. 1 front after
the following directions and the other to
correspond, increase 1 st. towards front
every other row until there are 64 sts. on
needle, then k. 2 rows, increase 8 sts. for
armhole, k. following pattern for 19 inches
until front seam is same length as side seam
on back.
Sleeves—Cast on 110 sts., k. following
pattern for 4 inches, decrease 1 st. every
8th row at each end of needle until there
are 82 sts. on needle, k. pattern until sleeve
measures 18 inches.
Cuffs—With steel needles k. 2, p. 2 for
5 inches, bind off loosely. Sew up sleeves.
Pockets—Cast on 32 sts., k. following pattern
for 4 inches, k. 14 ridges (2 inches) lap
over.
Band—With knitting needles No. 2 cast
on 13 sts., k. in ridges until band is long
enough to go up right front around neck
and where straight part of left front starts
make first buttonhole, and 3½ inches apart
another buttonhole until there are 6 buttonholes.
K. in ridges until band is long
enough for left front, bind off, sew band
to coat, sew on buttons.
Ear Laps for Army Use of Brown Mixed Scotch Utopia Yarn No. 568 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
½ skein Brown Yarn. 1 pair No. 1 White
Knitting Needles.
Cast on 14 sts., pl. k. 16 rds., inc. 1 st.
at e. end of n. e. other r. 10 times, this gives
34 sts., wk. 6 rds. no inc., dcr. 1 st. e. other
r. at e. end of n. on 10 rs. back to 14 sts.,
wk. 32 rds. on 14 sts., now copy opposite
earlap, and finish with 16 rds., join neatly
with ch. and sl. st.
Man’s Knitted Vest No. 909 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
First Row—K. 1, p. 1, k. 3, * p. 1, k. 1,
p. 1, k. 3, repeat from *, ending row with
p. 1.
Second Row—Same as first row.
Third Row—P. all across.
Fourth Row—K. 1, p. 5, end row with
p. 5.
Repeat these 4 rows for front sts. of vest.
Back—Cast on 120 sts., k. 1, p. 1, ending
row with p. 1. Repeat this row for 12
inches. Next row cast off 3 sts. at each end
of needle. Decrease 1 st. at each end of
needle for 3 rows more. K. even until
back measures 19 inches.
Now change to fancy st. for front. K.
42 sts., slip these on a pin, bind off 24 sts.
for neck. On remaining sts. k. 1 front after
following directions: K. for 1 inch even.
Increase 1 st. at neck end every other row
until there are 18 sts. added on. This finishes
increasing at neck end. On next 3
rows increase 1 st. at armhole.
Buttonhole—On next row make buttonhole
after following directions: K. 3 sts.,
bind off 3 sts. and k. across following pattern,
buttonhole should be made on purl
row.
Next Row—Cast on 3 sts. where the 3 sts.
were cast off. This makes buttonhole. Continue
to increase at armhole until 8 sts.
have been added on. There will be 66 sts.
on needle.
Next Row—K. 18 sts., slip the next 18 sts.
on a pin, with an extra ball of yarn follow
pattern on remaining sts. and cast on 18
sts. at armhole.
Pocket Lap—With an extra ball of yarn
cast on 18 sts. and k. plain for 5 ribs, join
this where sts. were slipped on pin and continue
knitting pattern for 5 inches more,
making buttonholes about 2 inches apart.
Make bottom pocket same as top pocket,
only 24 sts. instead of 18 sts.
K. following pattern for 4 inches more,
decrease 1 st. at front end every other row
6 times. Now k. 1 row plain.
P. 1 row, k. 1 row, p. 1 row, and bind
off.
Take the other 42 sts. from pin, make the
right front same as left, only omitting buttonholes
and top pocket.
Finish around neck and down front of
vest with a single crochet st., sew up side
seams and sew on buttons.
Cast on 64 sts. on 3 needles: 20–24–20.
K. 2, p. 2 for 4 inches, k. plain for 4 inches.
Narrow for ankle as follows: * K. 1 on
first needle, to be called “middle back” st.
K. next 2 sts. together (called “narrowing”).
K. plain to last 2 sts. of third needle, slip 1,
k. 1, slip the slipped st., k. 6 rows plain.*
Do this from * to * 4 times.
You now have 56 sts. on needles and are
ready for the heel.
Divide all sts. on 2 needles, to be called
“front” and “heel” needles respectively.
Have “middle back” st. in middle of “heel”
needle.
You are now to k. back and forth on
“heel” needle only, as follows:
Semi-double heel—* Slip 1, k. 1, slip 1,
k. 1 to end of “heel” needle, always slipping
first st. (If correct, last st. is knitted.)
Turn, slip first st. and purl all sts. to beginning
of “heel” needle.*
Turn, and repeat from * to * until “heel”
piece measures 2½ inches in length. You
have 13 or 14 loops.
K. 1 more than half of “heel” sts., slip 1,
k. 1, slip the slipped st. over the knitted one,
k. 1 more and turn. P. until you have one
more than half the original number of “heel”
sts. on right-hand needle. Slip 1, p. 1, slip
the slipped st. over, p. 1 more, and turn,
always slipping first st.
* K. to the st. before the “hole.” Slip
that st., k. 1, slip slipped st. over, k. 1, and
turn.*
Repeat from * to * until all stitches are
taken up.
Divide sts. on “heel” needle on 2 needles
designated right and left.
Pick up all sts. on right and left sides of
heel piece, always picking up loop on wrong
side of sock, usually 14 sts. on each side,
and k. once around to center of heel.
On “heel” needles narrow every other
row on ends of needles next to “front”
needle, as follows:
On “left” needle k. plain to last 3 sts.
K. the 2 together.
On the first end of “right” needle slip 1,
k. 1, slip the slipped st. over, and complete
row to middle of heel.
K. 1 row plain, and continue, alternating
1 narrowed row and 1 plain row until the
sts. on “heel” needles equal the number on
“front” needle, 56 in all. (The same number
always as the number after narrowing
for ankle.) K. plain until the foot measures
8 or 9 inches from tip of “heel” by
rule.
Narrow the toe as follows: K. 2 together,
k. 5, k. 2 together, k. 5, continue once around.
Then k. 5 rows without narrowing. Then a
row of narrowing with interval of 4 sts. and
4 plain rows; 3 sts. and 3 plain rows, and 2
sts. and 2 plain rows, until you have only
24 sts. left. After last narrowing k. 2 rows
plain, and then divide sts. on 2 needles, 12
on “front” needle, 12 on “heel” needle.
Break off wool thread length and use darning
needle.
Holding the knitting needles together
with “front” needle next to you, wool at
right end of “heel” needle, we are now ready
to finish the “Kitchener toe.”
With wool always under knitting needles
and at right of darning needle, slip darning
needle through the first “front” st. in the
95position of “knitting” and slip st. off the
knitting needle.
Slip darning needle through second
“front” st. in the position of “purling” and
leave st. on the knitting needle, making a
“prepared” st. Draw wool close as in knitting.
Slip darning needle trough first “heel”
st., as in “purling.” and slip st. off knitting
needle. Slip darning needle through second
“heel” st. as in “knitting,” and leave st. on
knitting needle as a “prepared” st. Now
slip darning needle through second “front”
st. in position of “knitting” and slip st. off
knitting needle. Slip darning needle through
third “front” st. in position of “purling” to
“prepare.”
Purl second “heel” st., slip it off knitting
needle, and knit third “heel” st. to prepare.
Continue until all sts. are slipped off, and
then weave thread lengthwise through the
sock for 4 inches. Also thread the 4-inch
length of wool at beginning of sock and
weave it into the leg lengthwise.
Next Round—K. 2 sts., * throw yarn over
needle, k. 2 sts. together, k. 2 sts., repeat
from * all around.
K. 1 round.
K. 2, p. 2 for 12 rounds.
96K. 4 rounds.
* K. 7 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat from
* all around.
K. 5 rounds.
* K. 6 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat from
* all around.
K. 35 rounds (5 inches).
* K. 5 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat from
* all around.
K. 12 rounds.
* K. 4 sts., k. 2 sts. together, repeat from
* all around.
K. 8 rounds.
Divide the 60 sts. on 4 needles, 15 on
each.
Toe—K. to the last 3 sts. on first needle,
k. 2 sts. together, k. 1 st.
On second needle k. 1 st., slip 1 st., k. 1 st.,
pass the slip st. over the k. st., k. to end.
On third needle k. to the last 3 sts., k. 2
sts. together, k. 1 st.
On fourth needle k. 1 st., slip 1 st., k. 1 st.,
pass the slip st. over the k. sts., k. to end.
K. 3 rounds, decrease next round as described
above.
K. 2 rounds, decrease next round.
K. 1 round, decrease every round until
there are 16 sts. left.
On 2 needles put 8 sts. on each, weave
the sts. together as follows: * Pass worsted
needle through first st. of front needle as
if knitting, slip the st. off, pass through second
st. as if purling, leave on needle, draw
yarn through first st. of back needle as if
purling, slip st. off, draw yarn through second
st. of back needle as if knitting, leave
st. on, repeat from * until all sts. are joined
and fastened, draw narrow tape through
holes to hold on protector.
Knit Bag for Hot Water Bottle Cover No. 850 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Cast on 38 sts. on each of 2 needles, 36
97sts. on third needle, having 112 sts. altogether,
k. 2, p. 2 until there are 3 inches,
k. 1 round plain.
Next Row—K. 2 sts., * throw thread over
needle, k. 2 sts. together, k. 2 sts., repeat
from * all around; this gives holes for draw
string; k. 1 round plain, next round k. 2,
p. 2 for 1 inch more, having 4 inches, then
k. plain until work measures 13 inches, divide
the sts. on 3 needles after the following
directions: On first needle k. 56 sts., on
second needle k. 28 sts., on third needle k.
28 sts., decrease on first needle * k. 1 st.,
k. 2 sts. together, k. up to the last 3 sts.
on needle, slip 1 st., k. 1 st., draw the slip
st. over the k. st., k. 1 st.; on second needle
k. 1 st., k. 2 sts. together, k. all sts. on
needle; on third needle k. all sts. but the
last 3 sts., slip 1 st., k. 1 st., draw the slip
sts. over the k. st., k. 1 st., repeat from *
all around every row until there are 16 sts.
on first needle, 8 on each of the other 2
needles, bind off and sew together with
joining st. Ch. 36 inches, 1 s. c. in every
st. for cord, draw through holes each end,
fasten a ring, work 1 s. c. all around ring.
Knitted Blanket No. 1000 — MATERIALS — DIRECTIONS
Model No. 1000
8 skeins of 3694 Utopia Shetland Floss. 8
skeins of 3695 Utopia Shetland Floss. 2
Amber Knitting Needles, No. 11.
Cast on 175 sts. and knit plain, not too
tightly, till 8 skeins of wool have been used.
Bind off very loosely.
The other piece is done exactly the same,
and when they are finished should measure
1¾ yards long and 1½ yards wide.
Baste these two sections together, being
careful to keep all edges straight and also
the correct size.
Bind all four edges with 6-inch satin ribbon
and mitre all four corners.
Feather-stitch both sides of blanket to
fasten ribbon firmly.
This size takes 8 yards of ribbon.
The feather stitching requires 12 skeins
of rope silk.
First Row—Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in next 3 sts.,
ch. 3, 1 s. c. in same st., 1 s. c. in next 2
sts., ch. 3, 1 s. c. in same st., 1 s. c. in next
2 sts., ch. 3, 1 s. c. in same st., 1 s. c. in next
st., 1 s. c. in 1st ch. st.
Second Row—* Ch. 3, skip 1 ch. st., 1 s. c.
in ch. st., 1 s. c. in next 3 sts., 1 s. c. in ch.
st., repeat from * for 3 more times, having
5 s. c. between ch. sts.
Third Row—* Ch. 3, skip 1 ch. st., 1 s. c.
in next ch. st., 1 s. c. in next 2 sts., ch. 3,
1 s. c. in first ch. st. for picot, 4 s. c. in next
4 sts., repeat from * 3 more times.
Fourth Row—Work 1 s. c. in every st. all
around with 3 ch. sts. at each corner, always
work 1 s. c. in first ch., skip center st.
and 1 s. c. in third ch. throughout square;
this increases pattern.
Fifth Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c.,
1 p., 4 s. c., repeat from * 3 more times.
Sixth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every st.,
repeat from * 3 more times, having 13 s. c.
between the 2 corners.
Seventh Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c.,
1 p., 4 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c., repeat from * for 3
more times.
Eighth Row—Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every st.
all around, having 17 s. c. between the corners.
Ninth Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c.,
1 p., 4 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c., repeat
from * 3 more times.
Tenth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every st.,
repeat from * 3 more times, having 21 sts.
between.
Eleventh Row—* Ch. 3, 7 s. c., 1 p., 4 s. c.,
1 p., 4 s. c., 1 p., 8 s. c., repeat from * 3
more times.
Twelfth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every st.,
repeat from * 3 more times, having 25 sts.
between.
Thirteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 11 s. c., 1 p.,
4 s. c., 1 p., 12 s. c., repeat from * 3 more
times.
Fourteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every
st., repeat from * 3 more times, having 29
sts. between.
99Fifteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 15 s. c., 1 p.,
16 s. c., repeat from * 3 more times.
Sixteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every
st., repeat from * 3 more times, having 33
sts. between.
Seventeenth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every
st., repeat from * 3 more times, having 35
sts. between.
Eighteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every
st., repeat from * 3 more times, having 37
sts. between.
Nineteenth Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., * * 1 p.,
4 s. c., repeat from * * 8 times, repeat from
* 3 more times.
Twentieth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in every
st., repeat from * 3 more times, having 41
sts. between.
Twenty-first Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., * *
1 p., 4 s. c., repeat from * * 9 times, repeat
from * 3 more times.
Twenty-second Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in
every st., repeat from * 3 more times, having
45 sts. between.
Twenty-third Row—* Ch. 3, 3 s. c., * *
1 p., 4 s. c., repeat from * * 10 times, repeat
from * 3 more times.
Twenty-fourth Row—* Ch. 3, 1 s. c. in
every st., repeat from * 3 more times, having
49 sts. between.
Twenty-fifth Row—Ch. 3, 1 d. c. in first
ch. st., ch. 1, skip 1 ch., 2 d. c. in third
ch. st., * ch. 1, skip 1, 2 d. c. on next 2 sts.,
repeat from * to corner, ch. 3, 2 d. c. in
first and third ch. st., continue with d. c.
as described.
Twenty-sixth Row—1 s. c. in every st.,
also at corners.
Sew squares neatly together on wrong
side, having 12 blue and 12 gray squares.
Border, with Blue—* 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 d. c.
in same st., skip 2 sts., 1 s. c. in next st.,
ch. 3, 1 d. c. in same st., skip 2 sts., 1 s. c.
in next st., repeat from * to end of row,
turn, ch. 3.
Second Row—With gray * 1 s. c. in ch. 3
of first row, ch. 3, 1 d. c. in same place,
repeat from * to end of row, make 3 more
rows same pattern, one blue, one gray, and
finish with blue.