Carnarvonshire, one of the six
Counties of North Wales, is bounded on the West by the Irish sea,
on the North by the strait called Menai, which divides it from
Anglesey; Merionethshire extends along the Southern coast, and
Denbighshire limits the Eastern.
As Travellers generally enter this County either along the
Conway or Capel Curig Road, it may be more convenient, for their
sakes, to commence its History with a short account of the Town
and neighbourhood of
But before we proceed to a description of the Town, it may be
necessary to inform the stranger that there is a District of this
County, on the Denbighshire, or East side of the River Conway;
and whether he be a Botanist, a Mineralogist, a Naturalist, or
Antiquary, he may, if he have leisure, spend a few days on this
side of the water with pleasure and advantage. This detached
part of the County of Carnarvon is called Creuddin yn
Rhos, and is celebrated for producing very excellent wheat;
it contains three Parishes, Llangwstenin, Llan Rhôs, or
more properly Llanfair yn Rhôs, and Llandudno.—In and
about the ruins of old Diganwy, or Dingonwy, now called y
Faerdre, and in Gloddaith woods, the Botanist will find a
great number of rare Plants, while the Mineralogist will be
tempted to examine the Copper Mines at Llandudno, and the
Historian and Antiquary be induced to visit the curious
collection of old Books and Manuscripts, in the libraries of
Gloddaith and Bodysgallen, (Bod Caswallawn) two old family seats,
belonging to Sir Thomas Mostyn Bart. the former built in the time
of Queen Elizabeth, since which period it has undergone very
little or no alteration, and almost all the old furniture is
preserved in the same state. Marle has also been a fine old
house, but was nearly burnt down about seventy years ago; it was
at one time the property of the Hollands, then of Sir Gryffydd
Williams, of Penrhyn, and on the death of his grandson Sir
Robert, it devolved to Sir Thomas Prendergast, an Irish
Gentleman, in right of his Lady, Anne, sister to Sir Robert, but
at present this house, as well as the Ferry of Conway, art in the
possession of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow.
On the
very summit of the high Promontory of Ormshead, or Gogarth, is
situated the small Church of Llandudno, dedicated to St. Tudno,
whose rocking stone (Maen sigl or Cryd-Tudno) is not very far
distant. On the Western side of this Mountain is a
tremendous precipice, over-hanging the sea, and these rocks are
frequented in the summer season by great numbers of birds of
passage; the Gulls occupy the lowest range, above them are the
Razor-bills and Guillemots, over these croak the Corvorants, and
the Herons possess the uppermost projections and ledges of this
stupendous rock; the Peregrine Falcon also builds his nest in
these impending crags. In the days of Falconry these birds
were considered so excellent, that the great minister Burleigh, sent a letter of thanks to an
ancestor of Sir Thomas Mostyn’s,
for a present of a cast of Hawks from this place. The
British name of this hill, Gogarth, seems to be derived
from ogo, or gogo, a Cave, and Garth, a Promontory, for there are
several caves under this rock, and particularly one very large,
inaccessible except by water; not far from it are the ruins of an
old Palace, belonging to the Bishops of Bangor; there is also a
farm house near the spot, known by the above name, Gogarth.
Mr. Pennant says, (but upon what authority is not known) that
this tract of Land was an appendage of the Abbey of Conway.
The
Castle of Deganwy, or Dingonwy, called by the English, Ganoe, and
afterwards, by the fault of transcribers, corrupted into Gannock,
was celebrated in the wars, between the two nations; the small
remains of it are on two hills, not far from the shore of the
river, nearly opposite the Town of Conway, but nearer to the sea;
there is a house a little below it, which still bears the name,
and was lately inhabited by Lord Kirkwall; the walls of the old
Castle surrounded these two rocks, and on the summit of one of
them is the vestige of a round Tower;—In all probability
this, as well as most Welsh Castles, was originally constructed
of timber, as it is asserted in our Histories, that it was
destroyed by lightning, in the year 810, [12]—the founder of it is not
known. It was afterwards rebuilt, and was for some time in
the possession of the Earls of Chester, when it was again
destroyed by Llewelyn the Great;—Randle de Blondeville then
repaired it, and King John encamped under its walls in the year
1211, and was reduced to great distress by the skill and prudence
of Llewelyn, who contrived to cut off his supplies. Henry
III. suffered still greater calamities near this place, in the
year 1245, at which time John de Grey, of Wilton, was Constable;
one of his courtiers most pathetically describes their
miseries. At length Diganwy was in 1260 totally dismantled
by our last Prince, Llewelyn ap Gryffydd.
Not far from hence, on the top of a hill, is an ancient Tower;
its form is circular, its height about 20 feet, the diameter 12;
its walls compose only two thirds of a circle, the rest is
open. In all probability it was a Watch Tower, and
connected with Diganwy as a place of retreat. The name of
this District, Creuddin, seems to be derived from Creu, or Crau,
blood, or gore, and Din, or Dinas, a fortified place; and was so
denominated, in all probability, from the many bloody battles
fought here between the English and Welsh. The fine view of
Conway Castle and the Bennarth woods, from this side of the
river, is greatly and deservedly admired. The original name
of Conway was Caer Gyffin, and it probably was inhabited, and was
a place of some strength, prior to the establishment of a
Cistercian Abbey here, in 1185, by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, Prince
of North Wales, and it then no doubt increased in opulence and
respectability, as the privileges of the members of this
community, like many others of a similar description, were
very considerable; in the first place they were to be exempt in
all parts from Tolls and Pontage, and they had a right to a free
passage over the ferries of the Menai, Conway, Barmouth, and
Dyfi, (or Dôfwy) and it was endowed with Lands to a great
extent, both in this County and in Anglesey; Caput Wedva vawr,
(Snowdon) Crib Goch, near Llanberis, and Morfa Dinlle, are
mentioned. The Castle was built by Edward the first, about
the year 1284, who being apprehensive, probably, that he might
find these monks and their attendants very unpleasant and
troublesome neighbours, he removed them to Maenan, about 8 miles
higher up on the Denbighshire side of the river, and not far from
Llanrwst, where there is an old family seat belonging to Lord
Newborough, which still retains the name of the Abbey. The
town of Conway has four entrances: The upper Gate, the lower, or
that next to the River, a Portal between that and the Castle, and
another to the Creek called Porth y felin, or the Gate to the
mill. Mr. Pennant’s
observation with respect to this place is this, “a more
ragged Town is scarcely to be seen within, or a more
beautiful one without;” the form is nearly
triangular, surrounded with lofty Walls, and guarded by 24 round
Towers; the lower face of the triangle borders on the
River. The Castle is built on a lofty rock, at the S. E. corner, and
is generally considered (as the same Historian remarks,) a
structure of “matchless magnificence,” and a more
beautiful Fortress, perhaps, never arose. The Architect,
Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, (the person under whose direction
Carnarvon Castle was also built) seems to have exerted all his
skill here. It had two entrances, one up a steep rock from
the River, with winding stairs, and ending in a small advanced
work, before one of the Gates of the Castle, and protected by
small round Towers; at the other extremity is a similar work;
from which there was a drawbridge into the Town.—Over a
great Foss, in one of the great Towers, is a beautiful oriel
window. The form of this Fortress is oblong, one side is
bounded by the River, another by a Creek, full of water at every
tide; within are two Courts, and on the outside project eight
vast Towers, each with a slender one of amazing elegance issuing
from its top, within which was a winding staircase.
The great Hall was very magnificent, and was of a curved form,
conformable to the bend of the outward Walls, including one end
with a large window, which seems to have been the private Chapel;
it was one hundred and thirty feet in length, and thirty broad,
and of great height; the roof was supported by eight noble
Arches, six of which still remain there was a great fireplace at
one end, and another on the side, it had six windows
to the country and three to the Court, and beneath it were vast
Vaults and Cellars. The foundation of one of the Towers
next the Creek has been undermined, and it is now denominated the
Hanging Tower.
Edward the First made this Town a Free Borough, and ordered
that the Mayor (who was the Constable of the Castle for the time
being) should preserve its privileges. William Sikun was
appointed first to that honor. At present it is governed by
one Alderman, a Recorder, Coroner, Water-bailiff, and two
Serjeants at Mace, chosen annually. Its privileges extended
from Carnarvon to the River Clwyd, and no one could be convicted
of any crime within its limits, except by a Jury collected in
that District, and such was the case with all the other English
Garrisons in North Wales.
Conway is a Contributory Borough, with Carnarvon, Pwllheli,
Nevin, and Crickaeth, in returning a Member to Parliament.
The Great Sessions for the County were formerly held here,
alternately with Carnarvon, but the latter place being more
central, enjoys that privilege at present exclusively. The
resident population in this Parish in 1801 was 889. The
Market is on Friday. Conway is 232 miles N.W. from
London. The passage over the river is attended with many
inconveniences, and not many years ago a boat was upset, and
several lives lost. The ferrymen are said to be very uncivil, and are
accused of practising great impositions on strangers. [17] The regular charge ought to be
one penny for a foot passenger, two-pence for a man and horse,
and half a crown a wheel for a carriage, but they generally
demand more than double these sums, and then importune for
liquor.
It is to be hoped that when the improvements now executing on
the Shrewsbury road are completed, Government will pay the same
attention to the Chester line, and that a Bridge will be erected
here, over the Conway; as this is the principal communication
between Dublin and the North of England.
Plas mawr, (the great mansion) an old house in the centre of
the town, built by Robert Wynne, Esq. a branch of the Gwydir
family, in the year 1585, will be likely to attract the
traveller’s attention. Over the gateway are the words
Anechou, Apechou, sustine, abstine; and on the House these
capital letters, IHS. X.P.S. being the Ancient method of
inscribing our Saviour’s name. The Church, the ruins
of an old Abbey, and another old House, called the College, also
claim a visit from the stranger.
Gyffin,
a Parish Church, about half a mile off, on the road to Llanrwst,
is a Stipendiary Cure, and is generally annexed to Conway.
The late Doctor Jones, Dean of Bangor, left £100. the
interest of which he directed to be applied to the keeping of a
School here. The Vicarage of Conway, as well as Gyffin, are
in the patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. On the summit of
the hill below the town, and nearly opposite to the bifurcated
rock, on which stood the Castle of Diganwy, are the ruins of an
ancient fortification, of a circular form, with only one
entrance, and this probably is the place mentioned by Leland, in
his Itinerary, and which he denominates Sinnodun, and where, he
says, there are the remains of a great work; it is described by
him as being a mile out of the town, but in what direction is not
mentioned. Camden also mentions a British Post, called Caer
Lleion, surrounded by Ditches and strong Ramparts, on a lofty
hill, near Conway marsh. The Castle of Sinnodun is also
represented as being situated near this place, in a Map of the
County, annexed to a very old edition of that Author’s
Britannia. As this small work is intended merely as a guide
to the Tourist, in his excursion through the County, it cannot be
expected to contain a very detailed or particular
account of every object, which may deserve attention; for this
reason the Compiler must pass over the siege of this Castle, during the
Rebellion, in Oliver Cromwell’s time, and merely observe,
that the custody of it was committed by the King to Archbishop
Williams, of the Penrhyn family, near Bangor, and after the
gentlemen and freeholders of the neighbourhood had placed a
number of valuable articles under his care, and for which he had
given them receipts, and thus became answerable for the property,
he was, in 1645, cruelly dispossessed by Prince Rupert, without
assigning any reason for this strange conduct; it was taken,
however, from the Prince in June, 1646, by General Mytton.
The Archbishop was buried in the Church of Llandegai, near
Bangor, where his Monument is still to be seen.
It would puzzle any one, unacquainted with the mistakes and
blunders of transcribers, to conjecture how Toisobius should become Ptolemy’s Conobius, or Conovius, (or
Conovium) but when we reflect a little, it may be supposed, that
the initial C, might be easily mistaken for T, and the v
converted into b, so as to form Toinobius, instead of Coinovius. The derivation of the word
Cynwy, seems to be, as Mr. Edward Llwyd conjectures, from
Cyn, chief or principal, and Gwy, or wy,
water; the prefix cyn, being augmentative, as cyn-gann,
very white; cyn-dynn, very stiff; or signifying first or chief,
as cynfyd, the old antediluvian world; cyn-ddydd, daybreak; and
Dr. Davies supposes cyn to be synonymous with penn, as
cyntaf, penaf, first or chief. Admitting
this, Cungetorix would be Cyntwrch, and
Cunobelinus, Cynfelyn, &c.
The River Conway has been celebrated for ages, for its
muscle-pearl fishery. Pliny informs us, that Julius
Cæsar dedicated to Venus Genetrix, in her temple at Rome, a
Breastplate set with British Pearls; and Suetonius alledges the
acquisition of these, as one motive for his invasion of the
Island. Mr. Edward Llwyd asserts that the pearls found in
this river are as large, and as well coloured, as any in Great
Britain or Ireland, and says that he saw several very fine large
ones in the possession of Robert Wynne, Esq. of
Bodysgallen. Mr. Pennant distinguishes this shell-fish by
the name of Mya Margaritifera. A vein of Burr, (a
species of Mill-stones) was discovered near Conway, about the
year 1800, but being inferior in quality to those brought from
France, there is no great demand for them.
The ancient Conovium, for some time the station of the
Tenth Roman Legion, was no doubt at Caer Rhun, about five miles
up the River, and near the Parish Church of that name; as a Roman
Hypocaust, a small Shield, and a great number of Roman Coins were
discovered there, by the late Rev. Hugh Davies Griffith, late
Vicar of the Parish, a gentleman of great worth and integrity,
highly esteemed and respected in his neighbourhood, and a person
who had a
great taste for the study of Antiquities. And what renders
this conjecture more probable is this, that there is a hill not
far distant, which is still called Mynydd Caer Lleon, or the Hill
of the Legion. The Rev. W. Brickdale, at that time Rector
of Llanrwst, saw several Roman bricks, dug up near the Church of
Caer Rhun, which were inscribed LEG. X. This Legion was
denominated Antoniana Augusta. The XXth, stationed at
Chester, (Caer Lleon Gawr, or Caer Lleion ar Ddyfrdwy) was distinguished
by the name Vicessima Victrix, and the
Second Legion, stationed at Caer Leon,
in Monmouthshire, or Caer Lleon ar
Wysc, was known by the title of Augusta Britannica. And there was (no
doubt) a Roman Road from hence to Segontium on the West, and to
Varium or Bodvarri and Caerwys, on the East, and another probably
through Dolyddelen, to Sarn Helen and Tommen y Mur, in
Merionethshire; Pen y street, Dolgelley; Castell y Beri, near Tal
y Llynn, to Penal near Machynlleth, where there was a Roman
encampment, and where very considerable remains were
discovered.
The admirer of picturesque and romantic Scenery would, no
doubt, consider his time well employed, and find his propensity
amply gratified, were he to deviate here, from the direct road to
Bangor and Carnarvon, and trace the Conway to its source, or at
least to its junction with the Lledr and Machno; he would
then pass very near Caer Rhun, the ancient Conovium, and in
proceeding along the banks of this beautiful River, would be able
to visit a great number of Water-falls, and he would find the
Scenery constantly changing, and new beauties presenting
themselves to his view, at almost every turn of the road.
My limits will merely allow me to enumerate some of the objects
which claim his attention, and ought to be visited, which are the
numerous Cascades on the right, between Llanbedr (near Caer Rhun)
and Trevriw; the old House of Gwydir, and its beautiful woods;
the town of Llanrwst, and particularly the old Monuments in the
Church, to the memory of the Wynne’s, the ancient
Proprietors of Gwydir, and the handsome Bridge over the Conway,
supposed to have been erected by the celebrated Inigo Jones, who
is said to have been a native of that neighbourhood. Near
this town are also several Lead Mines. The traveller will
then proceed through the Gwydir woods, up to the Village of
Bettws y Coed, and the new Iron Waterloo Bridge, over the Conway,
on the Great Irish Road; he will next visit the falls of the
Conway and Machno, and then return to Bettws, and proceed up the
river Lligwy; when about half way between that Village and Capel
Curig Inn, he will stop to view Rhaidr y Wennol, a tremendous
Cateract, and from the last mentioned Inn, he may either continue his rout
along the Irish road to Bangor, or direct his course to
Bethgelert Village, which is a stage of twelve miles, or turn off
on the right from that road, after he has proceeded about four
miles, for the Village of Llanberris, through its wonderful pass,
and from the new Inn, which we shall have occasion hereafter to
notice, he will be able to procure a guide to the summit of
Snowdon. But as most strangers will no doubt proceed from
Conway to Bangor, it shall be my endeavour to act as their guide,
and mention some of the particulars which are worth their
attention along this line of road: For the first two miles he
will proceed up hill, until he comes to an opening between two
rocks, near a place called Sychnant, when all of a sudden a most
magnificent scene presents itself: from hence he commands a full
view of Beaumaris Bay, generally covered with a number of small
vessels; the Puffin, or Priestholm Island, the Village of
Llangoed, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, and the Friars; the
former the beautiful seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, and the
latter that of his brother, Sir Robert Williams, Baronet, M.P.
all on the Anglesey shore;—On the Carnarvonshire side,
Bangor and Penrhyn Castle, and last, though not least, the huge
Pen-maen-mawr, protruding its rocky front into the sea, forming a
natural barrier, in such manner (to all appearance) as to cut off
every communication this way, and render any further progress impracticable;
the art of man has, however, at length conquered these
difficulties, and surmounted every obstacle, for about the year
1772 an excellent road was formed along the edge of this once
tremendous and dangerous precipice, under the direction of the
ingenious Mr. Sylvester, Parliament having generously voted a
grant for this purpose. Prior to this event several fatal
accidents had happened here, and one or two nearly miraculous
escapes are recorded in Mr. Pennant’s Tour through North
Wales. At that time no carriages passed this way, and
consequently all the travelling was either on foot or on
horseback. Dean Swift was generally a Pedestrian, and in
one of his rambles he left these lines, written on a pane of
glass at the old Inn, (now a Farm House) near this
Mountain:—
Before you venture here to pass,
Take a good refreshing glass;—
And when you are over, take another,
Your fainting spirits to recover.
Before the Traveller descends from the top of Sychnant, just
mentioned, to the little Vale of Dwygyfylchi, he should deviate a
little to the left, in order to examine some Antiquities, near a
place called Gwddw Glâs, in that Parish; here are several
circles of stones of various diameters, and large Carneddau, viz.
Barrows, or Tumuli, supposed to have been memorials of those
Heroes who fell in the field of battle, as Cistfaens, or
Stone
Coffins, are frequently discovered in some of these circular
heaps, or collections of stones. The principal Circle now
consists of ten upright stones, at unequal distances, the largest
is eight feet three inches high; on the ground is another, eleven
feet two; the diameter of this Circle is eighty feet. Near
this are four other smaller Circles, in the centre of one is a
flat stone, the remains of a Cromlech, from which it may be
conjectured that it was a Druidical or Bardic Circle. About
a quarter of a mile from these is a large Circle, composed of
small stones, and near it another of large stones; and not far
from these another Circle, composed of small ones.—Near the
last is a huge upright stone, called Maen y Campiau, or the Stone
of Games; and nearly contiguous is a Carnedd, and a small Circle
of twelve stones; adjoining to these are also a great number of
what are now called in this country, Cyttiau Gwyddelod, (Woodmen
or Irishmen’s Huts) being the foundations of small
buildings, made of rounded stones; and the vestige of a road is
still visible in a direction from hence towards the Conway.
Some of these last might probably have been the summer
habitations or encampment of a small detachment of the Roman
legion, stationed at Caer Rhun or Conovium, for the purpose of
protecting their Cattle. Having mentioned Maen y Campian,
it may not perhaps be considered a digression to enumerate the
twenty-four Welsh or British Games, of which there were ten
Gwrolgampau, or manly games, viz. 1. To lift up
great weights; 2. Running; 3. Leaping; 4.
Swimming; 5. Wrestling; 6. Riding. These six
were stiled Tadogion, viz. pertaining to fathers, or grown
up persons, and required only bodily strength and activity; this
last, Marchogaeth, is supposed to have included
Charioteering, or the skilful driving and management of different
kinds of carriages. The other four were, 1. Archery;
2. Playing with the Sword and Buckler; 3. Playing
with the Cleddau deuddwrn, or two-handed Sword; 4. Chwarau
ffonn ddwybig, or playing with the two-end Staff or Spear.
Next to these were the ten Mabolgampau, or those more
peculiarly adapted to young men, viz. 1. Coursing; 2.
Fishing; 3. Fowling; the remaining seven were of the
domestic kind: 1. Barddoniaeth, or Poetical Composition;
2. Chwareu’r Delyn, or paying upon the Harp; 3.
Reading Welsh; 4. Singing with the Harp; 5. Singing
between three or four, most probably in alternate Stanzas, or
Pennillion; 6. Drawing or Painting, particularly Coats of
Arms; 7. Heraldry. After these were four
Gogampiau, or Minor Games, viz. 1. Chwarau
Gwydd-bwyll, a game similar to that of Draughts; 2. Chwarau
Tawl-Bwrdd, probably Back-gammon, as this word is supposed to be
derived from the Welsh Language, viz. Bach, little, and
Cammawn, or Gammon, Battle, and Tewl-Bwrdd, means the toss
on the table; 3. Chwarau Ffristeal, or the Game of the Dice
Box, in what manner it was played is not known at present;
4. Cyweiriaw Telyn, or the Tuning of the Harp.
After visiting these Circles, the traveller may either proceed
to the top of Pen-maen-mawr, or descend to the high road, near
Dwygyfylchi Church, not far from which, just at the foot of
Pen-maen-bach, is Pendyffryn, the seat of T. Smith, Esq.—In
the clefts of the rock, above the Turnpike-gate, near
Pen-maen-mawr, grows the Cratægus
aria, or White Beam Tree; Mr. Pennant observes that the
Swiss procure a good kind of Ardent Spirit from the
berries. The summit of this mountain seems to have been
fortified by two or three walls, one within the other; and there
are still visible the remains of a great number of Huts, or small
buildings, most probably at one time the habitations of Soldiers;
it was no doubt a strong military Post, and is supposed to have
been made use of by the Britons and Romans. The Roman Road,
from Segontium to Conovium, must have passed near it, probably on
the South side; and this high mountain, so conspicuous and so
easily distinguished at a distance, formed a kind of link, no
doubt, in the military chain of communication between this
County and Denbighshire, as it is very visible from Dinorwick,
(now called Pen Dinas) a Roman Encampment in the Parish of
Llanddeiniolen, near Carnarvon, on the West, and from many
fortified eminences in the other County, on the East. The
usual signals in ancient times were fires by night, and a
particular kind of flag by day. Having examined Braich y
Dinas, which is the name by which the fortified part of the
mountain is distinguished, we now proceed along the high road
through the Parish of Llanfair fechan, and leaving that small
Church on an eminence, a little to the left of the road, and on
the right Brynn y Neuadd, an old neglected family seat, at one
time the property of Humphrey Roberts, Esq. and afterwards
conveyed to the Wynne’s of Plas Newydd, near Denbigh, by
the marriage of his daughter to a son of that family, we soon
pass Gorddinog, (Mrs. Crawley’s) also on the left, and soon
reach the beautiful little Village of Aber, situated near a small
river, and at the entrance of a narrow Glenn. Near the
Bridge is a Circular Mount, seemingly artificial, which was the
foundation of a small Castle, probably constructed of timber, as
many of our Welsh Fortresses are stated to have been consumed by
fire. Several of the Welsh Princes resided occasionally at
this place, and David ap Llywelyn died here, about the year 1246,
and was buried in the Abbey of Conway.
Traces
of Buildings have been discovered near this spot, which were
probably the remains of the Prince’s Palace, as the
inhabitants still pretend to shew strangers the foundation of the
old kitchen. Several Memorials, &c. appear in our Welsh
Histories, dated Aber Garth Celyn, which is the ancient name by
which this place was distinguished. William de Breos, (son
of Reginald, a potent Baron in the Reign of Henry III.) who had
been taken prisoner by the Welsh Prince Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, was
detected in an intrigue with Joan his wife, (daughter to the King
of England). The enraged Prince, upon the discovery of her
infidelity, caused her paramour to be hung on the side of the
opposite hill; and there is a tradition, that the Princess going
out the next morning, and accidentally meeting the Bard of the
Palace, the latter (knowing that she was ignorant of the fate of
her lover) accosted her in the following poetical rhyme:
Diccyn, doccyn, gwraig Llywelyn,
Beth a roit ti am welad Gwilym?
that is, “Tell me wife of Llywelyn, what you would give
for a sight of your William?” to which she
answered:—
Cymru, Lloegr a Llywelyn,
Y rown i gyd am weled Gwilym!
i.e. Wales and England, and Llywelyn,
I would give them all to see my William!
The Bard, on receiving this answer, shewed him to her, hanging
on a tree, on the side of a hill, at a place now called Wern
Grogedig. It is added in Camden, “Tradition buries De
Breos in a Cave, in a field called Cae Gwilym Ddu.” [30] Nearly at the extremity of this
romantic Glenn, about a mile from the Village, the River forms a
noble Cataract, precipitating itself down the front of a bold
lofty rock, and making a double fall, the lowest of which is of
very considerable height. This Village is much frequented
in the summer season, and the accommodations at the Inn are very
good. The beach, at high water, is very convenient for
sea-bathing, and many strangers remain here some time for that
purpose. There is a road from hence, over the mountain, by
Bwlch y Ddau Faen, to Tal y Cafn ferry, Llanbedr and Llanrwst;
and another over the sands to Beaumaris, but this latter is not
to be attempted by a stranger without a guide. It is
remarked by Mr. Pennant that all the Passes between the mountains
were guarded by Forts and Castles, for besides this at Aber,
Craig y Gaer and Maes y Gaer were fortified; and there was a Fort
at Nant Ffranco; (or Nant Afangcwn) near Pont y Twr, another at
Dolbadarn, Nant Pevis; Castell Cidwm, Nant y Bettws; Craig y Dinas,
near Llanllyfni; a Fort near Dolbenmaen, and an old Cattle at
Dolydd Elen, and Dinas Emrys, in Nant Gwynant, near
Bethgelert. Lord Bulkeley is the proprietor of the greatest
part of the Parish of Aber, and he has been a great benefactor to
this Church, as well as to all the others in his Lordship’s
Patronage, having built a tower (or Steeple) to each, at his own
expence, and furnished them with Bells. The distance from
hence to Bangor is about five miles, and as the stranger proceeds
he cannot help admiring the ever-varying Scene, and the beauty of
the prospects which present themselves to his view: On the
Anglesey shore, the Town of Beaumaris, Baron Hill, The Friars,
Red Hill, &c. claim his attention; and directly before him,
on the Carnarvonshire side, he will perceive the Village and
much-admired Church of Llandegai, and near it Penrhyn Woods and
Castle, rising in Majestic grandeur. The Church of
Llandegai has lately been very much improved and beautified, by
means of a very handsome Legacy, left by the late Lady Penrhyn
for that purpose. The whole of the interior has been
renewed, viz. the Seats, Pulpit, Communion, Ceiling, Plastering,
and Floor, and the Tower raised, in order to admit a Peal of Six
Bells, a Legacy for which having been also left by Lady Penrhyn,
as well as one for the erection of a Monument to her deceased Lord, which
is now fixed up in the Church, and is a most superb and elegant
piece of work; it is made of Statuary Marble, and represents two
Figures, one a Quarryman, with an Iron Bar and Slate knife in his
hand, reading the inscription, and reflecting on the loss of his
benefactors, the other is a female Peasant Girl, weeping over the
loss of her deceased Lord and Lady; there are some other smaller
Figures, very descriptive of the progress of improvement amongst
the Peasantry, under the directing influence of his Lordship.
Whilst we are speaking of Llandegai Village and Church, we
must not omit here to notice a very great improvement, and
accommodation to the public, which has been effected, at very
considerable expence, through the liberality of Mr. Pennant, we
mean the new piece of road, to the left, made to avoid that
dangerous and ugly hill near the Church. This part of the
County has within the last thirty years been abundantly improved
by the late Lord Penrhyn, under the judicious management and
direction of Benjamin Wyatt, Esq. of Lime Grove, his
Lordship’s Agent, two individuals who were real benefactors
to the Country, and whose names have every claim to the grateful
recollections not only of the inhabitants of this neighbourhood,
but of all those whom business or pleasure may induce to enter
this County, by way of Capel Curig and Nant Ffrancon,
which is now the great Post Road from Shrewsbury to
Holyhead. At the former place, an Inn, upon a very
commodious and extensive scale, has been erected by the late Lord
Penrhyn; and his successor, Mr. Pennant, with the view of giving
greater facility and convenience to Travellers, has lately
erected there a Cottage and Stables near the road, in order to
give those who might find it inconvenient to go down to the Inn,
an opportunity of changing horses at the road, and also for the
better accommodation of the Mail and Stage Coaches; he has
likewise built new Stables at Tynymaes, and made the Inn there
into a Posting House, to divide that long and tedious stage,
which used to be from Capel Curig to Bangor-ferry. Capel
Curig is distant from Bangor about 15 miles, S.W.—The road
to it is carried up the romantic and stupendous Valley of Nant
Ffrancon. The formation of such a road, in so rude and
unfrequented a region, was one of the earliest and most important
improvements which the late Lord Penrhyn effected, in this part
of the Country; it has since undergone, in proportion to the
increase of pecuniary resources, and to the progress of other
local improvements, frequent alterations, and is now, from the
munificence of Government, who have lately taken this affair into
their own hands, one of the most perfect and magnificent roads,
in the kingdom. But, important as this work was, at its
commencement, under the public spirit of Lord Penrhyn, it is far
from being all which was accomplished or promoted by that
patriotic nobleman. The following extract from a memoir of
the late Mr. Wyatt, published in the North Wales Gazette for
January, 1818, will give us a more enlarged view of this
matter:—
“It was by so able an exercise of his
judgment and taste, that the domain of Penrhyn, at that period a
very wilderness, disregarded as a place of residence, and the
house in a state of venerable dilapidation, was heightened into
its present circumstances of dignified and stately
elegance—that a wild and unprofitable morass has since been
made to assume, in the admired situation and arrangements of Lime
Grove, the features of comfort, of profit, and of
ornament—that the agricultural properties of the Estate
were promoted into a condition of progressive improvement; the
cottage of the labourer, and the habitation of the tenantry, in
many instances, into dwellings of neatness and comfort to
themselves, giving animation, variety, and interest to the
scenery which surrounded them—that such excellent
facilities were effected for bringing into light and action, the
hidden and long neglected treasures of the slate rock on the
banks of the Ogwen; which, through a happy union of subsequent
commercial interests, and the spirited manner in which those
interests are conducted, are now so richly swelled into a
stream of affluence to the proprietor, and of honest industry and
subsistence to many hundreds of the poor.—Such are a few,
but far from being all the testimonies, which this country now
exhibits of the judgment and abilities of the late Mr. Wyatt; nor
ought we, indeed, to have omitted in this short catalogue, as
remarkable monuments of his well-cultivated taste, the noble
marine Baths at Penrhyn, the fascinating and graceful Villa at
Ogwen Bank, and the characteristic order and embellishments of
the Dairy farm at Pen-isa-nant.”
The Slate Quarry is distant about six miles from Bangor, on
the road to Capel Curig, and is in every respect worthy of a
visit from the Tourist; it exhibits a most interesting and
surprising display of art and industry, from 7 to 800 men being
in constant employment there, and the vast excavation, which from
near thirty years labour at it, is now made into the heart of the
mountain, presents to the view a variety of picturesque and
magnificent scenery, richly deserving the inspection of the
artist. Within half a mile of the Slate Quarry is Ogwen
Bank, an elegant and romantic little retreat—a perfect
bijou, designed by the late Lord Penrhyn, and still used
by the family, as an occasional resort for refreshment and
recreation, on paying a morning visit to the Quarry, or other
objects of curiosity in the vicinity. Near to this is
Pen-issa-nant, formerly intended as a Dairy and Poultry Farm
to Penrhyn Castle, for which purposes, the most ample, elegant,
and ingenious arrangements were made, and the house designed and
fitted up with peculiar simplicity and prettiness, perfectly
correspondent with the nature of its object. These two
places are accessible to all respectable visitors; the road to
them, from Bangor, abounds in grand and interesting
prospects.—Penrhyn Castle and Woods, at all times a rich
and remarkable feature in the Scenery—the Sea, bounded by
the distant Promontory of Ormes Head—the protruding
bulkiness of Pen-maen-mawr—the bold and mighty barrier of
Mountains, forming the most picturesque lines with the horizon,
and extending nearly all round the distant Scene—these are
the chief ingredients of this distinguished and beautiful
landscape. The present proprietor of Penrhyn Castle is G.
H. D. Pennant, Esq. to whom the property was left. This
gentleman seems to possess a spirit of improvement no less active
than his noble predecessor. The Park, which till within
these few years formed the domain to this stately residence, has
been very extensively enlarged by the present proprietor, who has
enclosed the same by a wall of considerable length, which is done
in a manner deserving the example of others, for its neat,
strong, and masterly work;—the coping of the wall is
peculiarly handsome, and characteristic of the county, being formed
of the waste ends of the Slate rock, fixed in a rough and uneven
manner, giving the whole a bold and substantial
appearance.—Within the precincts of this Park, and
protruding a considerable distance into the sea, is a very
handsome building, containing a large private sea-water bath,
with warm baths contiguous to it. This edifice is
understood to have cost the late Lord Penrhyn not less than
£4000. and perhaps not to be equalled for elegance and
commodiousness in the kingdom. Penrhyn Castle is itself a
modern building, (with the exception of one small circular Tower)
and was erected by Lord Penrhyn, from designs of the late Samuel
Wyatt, Esq., a brother of his Lordship’s Agent,
before-mentioned. The principal rooms are commodious and
elegant, particularly the Drawing-room, which is a very stately
and handsome apartment, but the Architecture of the house cannot
be said fairly to bear any technical character; being neither of
the Grecian, Roman, Gothic, nor English domestic stile, but an
insipid and unmeaning attempt at all. Rumour however says,
that the present proprietor contemplates some very important
improvements. The situation is one which has every claim to
a noble and distinguished edifice.
Lime Grove, the neat and appropriate residence of Mr. Wyatt,
the Agent of Mr. Pennant, (and son of the former Mr. Wyatt,
before alluded to) is situated in the lower part of Penrhyn Park, to
the West; this house was also planned by the late S. Wyatt, Esq.
and in point of chasteness and technical purity, is more
creditable to his taste than the greater work at Penrhyn
Castle. The grounds, and what may be called the rural
economy of Lime Grove, have ever been deservedly admired.
Contiguous to this part of Penrhyn Park, and to the North West
of it, is Port Penrhyn.—This is a very noble and commodious
arrangement, made for the accommodation of the Merchant Vessels,
employed for the conveyance of the Slate from the afore-mentioned
Quarry, to different parts of the Kingdom, and for receiving and
stowing the productions of that Quarry until they are lodged on
board the Vessels waiting to receive them. The vastly
increasing demand for these Slates, [38] necessarily requires
a proportionate scale of the means for supplying it, consequently
the Quay, at Port Penrhyn, has lately undergone very considerable
enlargement, by the present proprietor, G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.
which alike does credit to his liberal spirit in projecting it,
as to the builder in its masterly execution; it will accommodate
50 sail, in addition to the old Quay, and will greatly facilitate
the Trade
there. The beautiful Bridge too, which Mr. Pennant is now
building over the Cegin, at Port Penrhyn, will considerably
improve the communication between that place and the Town of
Bangor, and be a great public accommodation in other respects, at
the same time it makes a handsome finish to the Pier, which we
understand to be upwards of 300 yards in length, and we have no
hesitation in saying that when the whole is completed, it will
form one of the most complete Shipping places in the
Principality. The Slates are conveyed from the Quarry, in
Nant Ffrancon, to this Port, a distance of 8 miles, by means of
small waggons, linked together in succession, and running upon a
rail-road. The expedition and facility with which the
Slates are thus conveyed from the Quarry to the Ships is very
remarkable.
Proceeding from Port Penrhyn to Bangor, the situation of the
Inn, called the Penrhyn Arms, at less than a quarter of a mile
from the Port, on the brow of the hill, is well worthy of
observation. The view from the Bowling-green, attached to
this house, is very celebrated, and deservedly so. The
component parts of this fine picture need not be detailed to the
stranger, who visits and sees it—but in a word it may be
said to be a most majestic, impressive and interesting Scene.
From this rich and animating display of nature’s works, we
must now (as faithful pioneers through the County of Carnarvon)
turn our eyes to the works of Art in this neighbourhood; the
first that presents itself is the great Post Road, from
Shrewsbury to Holyhead, which has been lately much altered, and
in many places in this vicinity entirely diverted from the old
line. It has been found necessary, in order to render the
ascent near the Penrhyn Arms easier, to cut about 12 or 15 feet
deep, and one or two hundred in length, and to throw an Archway
over, to preserve the communication from the above Inn to the
Terrace, a handsome mansion, and in point of Scenery, beautifully
situated, but which, from the above-mentioned excavation, seems
to the passing Traveller, to rest on an insecure
foundation. But before we proceed farther, and that we may
preserve uniformity, it will be necessary to present our readers
with a short History of
So called from Bann and Cor, the great or lofty Choir, (and
not from Pen-chor, as Mr. Nicholas Owen supposes); it is an
episcopal See, and a small Market Town, situated in a narrow
defile, near a small brook called Tor onnen, (as Leland
informs us) opening gradually to the Sea, Eastward, which comes
within less than a quarter of a mile of the Town. St.
Dubricius, (called by the Welsh Dufrig Ben eurog) who was
Archbishop of Caerlleon, upon Usk, in Monmouthshire, is said to
have consecrated Daniel ap Dunod, first Bishop of this See, about
the year 550. This Daniel or Deiniol, according to the
Welsh Records, was Abbot of Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire, from
whence he retired to this place, where he founded a College, for
the instruction of youth, and it is supposed to have continued a
Cell or Member of the other Bangor, until it was converted into a
Bishoprick by Prince Maelgun Gwynedd. The above St.
Dubritius is reported to have resigned in favour of St. David,
and to have retired to the Island of Bardsey, (Enlli) after
having assisted at the Synod of Brevi, (now called Llanddewi
Brevi, in Cardiganshire) which circumstance is commemorated in
the following Welsh lines:
Pan oedd Saint Senedd Brevi,
(Drwy arch y Prophwydi)
Ar ôl gwiw Bregeth Dewi
Yn myned i Ynys Enlli.
“When the Saints of the Synod of Brevi, after the good
sermon of St. David, were going (by the direction of the
Prophets) to the Island of Bardsey.”
The extent of this Diocese, at that time, is uncertain; but
the present comprehends all Anglesey and Carnarvonshire, except
the following parishes, situated on the East of the river Conway,
viz. Llysvaen, Eglwys Rhôs, and Llangwstenin, which are in
the Diocese of St. Asaph; in Denbighshire it has fourteen
Parishes; seven in Montgomeryshire, and the greatest part of
Merionethshire is also in this Diocese.
The Cathedral is a venerable Gothic building, spacious and
convenient, but, at present it may be considered, in some
measure, in a dilapidated state, as the Chapter have been waiting
some time for the Lord Chancellor’s decision as to the
quantum of Grant, which his Lordship may consider
necessary to allow, in order to put the Fabric in complete
repair. Its dimensions are as follows, the North and South
Cross Aisles are 30 feet 6 inches, North and South, and 25 East
and West, so that the whole length of the Cross Aisle, from North
to South, is 86 feet the inside. From the Arch which opens
to the Choir, to the East end of the Stalls, is 27 feet, from
thence to the East end of the Bishop’s Throne 6 feet, and
from thence to the Altar 21 feet, whole length of the Choir 54
feet, which added to the space of the cross Aisle 25 feet, the
Nave 110 feet, Steeple 19 feet, makes the whole length from East
to West, 208. The breadth of the Choir, from wall to wall,
is 26 feet 6 inches, the breadth of the Stalls 4 feet, 6 inches,
that of the Choristers seats nearly 3 feet; the height of the
Choir and Nave 34 feet, of the Aisle 24 feet; thickness of the
Walls which support the Arches in the North and South Aisles is 4
feet. The Chapter Room was repaired and partly rebuilt in Bishop
Moore’s time, and the Nave new roofed in that of
Warren. There are now belonging to this Cathedral, a
Bishop, (H. W. Majendie, D.D.) a Dean, (J. Warren, B.D.) three
Archdeacons, two of which were annexed to the Bishopric by Act of
Parliament, A.D. 1685, a Treasurer, and two Prebendaries,
endowed; a Precentor, [43] Chancellor, and
three Canons, not endowed; two Vicars Choral, an Organist, four
Lay Clerks, Choristers, and other officers.—About the year
975, King Edgar coming into North Wales, at Bangor confirmed the
ancient privileges of the Church, and bestowed Lands upon it, and
caused a new Church to be founded on the South side of the
Cathedral, dedicated to the blessed Virgin, which Church or
Chapel was, by Dean Kyffin, converted into a Chantry of singing
Priests; this place is supposed to have been the same which
afterwards became the residence of the Vicar. Anion, (or
Eineon) Archdeacon of Anglesey, became Bishop about the year
1268, and is reported to have held a Synod at St. Mary’s de
Garth Brannan, the ancient Parish Church of Bangor, now entirely
down, since the year 1291, but which is supposed to have been
about 400 yards from the Cathedral. He also christened
Edward the Second, in Carnarvon Castle, April 25th, 1284, and for
this and other services, had several Manors or Regalities
bestowed upon him and his successors, as the Manor of Treffos,
(said to have been afterwards the residence of the Bishops of
Bangor for some years) and some Cantreds in the Island of
Anglesey, the Ferries of Porthaethwy and Cadnant, over the Menai,
the Manors of Bangor, Castellmai and Garth Gogo, (now
Gogarth). In his time also the house in London was
given. The offices secundum usum Bangor, were recovered by
Bishop Humphreys, from a private library, and new bound, by the
direction and at the expence of the late Dr. John Jones; it was
compiled by Bishop Anian, (Eineon) or at least given by
him. The Cathedral was destroyed in the year 1071, and was
soon afterwards re-built, for we find that in 1212, King John
invaded the country, forced the Bishop (Robert of Shrewsbury)
from before the Altar, and obliged him to pay two hundred Hawks
for his ransom. In the year 1402, it was again reduced to
ruin, by the rage of Owen Glyndwr, and continued neglected for
ninety years, when the Choir was restored by Bishop Dean or
Deny. The present body and tower were erected by that
liberal Prelate Bishop Skeffington, as appears by the following
inscription, at the West end, “Thomas Skevington,
Episcopus Bangoriæ, hoc campanile et Ecclesiam
fieri fecit Ann. partus 1532.” The height of the Tower
is about sixty feet, it was to have been raised considerably
higher, but the death of the Bishop prevented the execution of
that design. The windows were made or glazed according to
the custom of the times, by the piety of different persons, among
whom may be reckoned Dean Kyffin, and some of the Griffiths of
Penrhyn. Bishop Lloyd gave the Bells. On the South
side of the Choir is a Mural Monument of Bishop Morgan, who died
September, 1673, aged 65, also another in memory of Anne,
daughter of Bishop Humphreys. The Busts of Bishops Vaughan
and Rowlands, which were decapitated, and otherwise disfigured in
the fanatical times of Oliver Cromwell, were removed in
1810. Bishop H. Rowlands erected the Monument in memory of
Bishop Vaughan, as a token of his affection; he died Bishop of
London, A.D. 1607. Bishop Edward Griffith is supposed to
have been buried near this spot. Bishop Rowlands died July
1616, and is here buried, ætatis 65; here also is
buried Bishop Lloyd ob. 15th Feb. 1688, ætat.
78. About the space of two stones off lie Bishop Nich.
Robinson and Bishop Robert Morgan, both in one grave; the stone
is or was partly covered by the rails; Morgan died September,
1673, aged 65. Bishops Bailey and Meyrick were buried on
the South of the Communion Table. One stone with a plate
upon it, is this inscription: “Gulielmus Glynn
natus in Insula Mona, &c.” he was Bishop of
Bangor in 1555. That wise and valiant Prince, Owen Gwynedd,
is supposed to have been buried beneath an Arch, with a flowery
Cross cut on a flat stone; he died regretted by his countrymen
and feared by his foes, in 1169. On the floor is a
mutilated figure, in brass, designed for Richard Kyffin, the
active Dean of the Cathedral, in the Reigns of Richard III. and
Henry VII. He was a strenuous friend to the house of
Lancaster, and when he was Prebendary of Llanddwyn, and resident
there as Rector of the place, he concerted, in conjunction with
Sir Rhys (or Rice) ap Thomas, of Dinevor, and other Welsh
Chieftains, a plan for the bringing in the Duke of Richmond, then
in Brittany, to whom they transmitted, by means of fishing
Vessels, all the necessary intelligence. He died the 13th
of August 1502. The place of his interment was till within
these few years (and probably may be so still) distinguished by
the name of Bedd y Deon Du, or the grave of the black
Dean, who was so called, in all probability, from his
complexion. It appears, from the Sebright MSS. that our
wise and brave Prince Griffith ap Cynan, was interred on the left
side of the great Altar, in the year 1137, and that an elegant
shrine was erected over his grave, of which however not a vestige
now remains. In the Parish Church of Llandegai,
before-mentioned, is still to be seen a mural Monument, with a long Latin
inscription, to the memory of the celebrated John Williams,
Archbishop of York, in the time of Charles the First; he is
represented in his episcopal Dress, kneeling at an Altar.
This great Prelate was born at Conway; his father, Edmund,
was sixth son of the neighbouring family of Cochwillan,
and a branch of that of Penrhyn; his life was written by Bishop
Hackett, and the late Rev. Sneyd Davies, after viewing the
Monument, wrote a beautiful little Poem, which is preserved in
Dodsley’s Collections. Here is also an Alabaster
Monument of an armed Man and his Lady, recumbent; they probably
belonged to the neighbouring House, but on the dissolution were
removed from the Friery of Llanvaes in Anglesey, where the
persons represented had been interred.
The Bishop’s Palace is an irregular building situate on
the side of the Hill, about one hundred yards to the North of the
Cathedral; it was partly re-built by Bishop Warren, and several
handsome and commodious apartments added to it, and it has been
in other respects greatly improved by the present worthy Prelate,
Dr. Majendie. The residence of the Dean is nearly adjoining
the Church-yard, at the N. W. end of the Cathedral.
Nearly on the same spot where the Bangor Free Grammar School
now stands, a House of Friers Preachers was founded, according to
Bishop
Tanner, about the year 1276, by Tudor ap Gronow, Lord of
Penmynydd and Trecastell, in Anglesey, who also enlarged or
rebuilt it in 1299, and was interred here in 1311.
Leland’s words are “A Priory of White Freres, by
Bangor, dedicate to Jesu: there were once White Freres at Ruthin
Dyffryn Clwyd.” Edward VI. made a grant of this place
to Thomas Brown and William Bretton, and soon after it was
converted into a Free School, by Geffry Glynn, LL.D. an Advocate
in Doctor’s Commons, and brother to Bishop Glynn. By
his Will, proved July 21, 1557, he left the management of it to
his brother, and to Maurice Griffith, Bishop of Rochester; but
the settlement not having been completed prior to their decease,
they delegated the same power to Sir William Petre and others,
who agreed on the Statutes for the Master and Usher, with the
concurrence of the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter, and of Alexander
Nowel, Dean of St. Paul’s, who is said to have composed
them.—Mr. Pennant, in his Tour, informs us that over the
chimney piece, in the old School House, there was a fragment of
an ancient Monument, to one Gryffydd, with a long sword carved on
it, and on the staircase another stone, with the words ap Tudor,
probably part of the Tomb of the founder, Tudor ap Gronw ap
Tudor. A new School-room, together with a spacious and
convenient dwelling-house for the Master, adjoining, was erected
here in the time of Bishop Warren, and some new regulations made
with regard to the management of the School. Within the
last few years a new house has also been built, a little to the
East of the former, for the residence of the Usher. This
Seminary is at present extremely well conducted, and deservedly
held in great repute: From having been for many years the third
in eminence, (Beaumaris and Ruthin being long considered as
superior to it) this establishment is now the most flourishing
place of education in this portion of the principality.
Bishop Rowlands, born at Plas Myllteyrn, in Lleyn, founded
here an Hospital, or rather an Alms-house, for six poor men, and
also a Free School, at Bottwnog in this County, about the year
1616. The Dispensary, a most useful and benevolent
Institution was established in this City, October, 1809, being
the 50th Anniversary of our late good King’s Accession, and
the year of Jubilee, under the patronage of that excellent
Nobleman, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, the Lord Bishop of the Diocese,
the worthy Dean, and many other Noblemen and Gentlemen. It
is with heart-felt satisfaction we are able to add, that its
Funds continue on the increase, and every attention is paid to
the numerous patients, by Dr. Mason, the Physician; Mr. Roberts,
the Surgeon, and Mr. Pugh, the House Apothecary.
The
following tribute, to the memory of Mr. Edwards, the celebrated
blind Harper, who died at his sister’s, (Mrs. Jones, Pen yr
Allt, Bangor) on Friday, the 13th January, 1815, aged 65, may not
be unacceptable to the reader, the author is unknown:
Ah! quench’d is now that Minstrel’s
fire,
And mute those strings, whose magic tone
Could once e’en Cambria’s Rocks inspire,
And move to life her mountain stone.
Cold is the hand, that once could sweep
The native Harp, with Bardic sway;
Could lull each passion rude to sleep,
And drive the steps of care away.
Ah come ye kindred Minstrels here,
To kiss the Harp your master sway’d,
And o’er it drop the mournful tear,
And let it in his grave be laid.
For now like him ’tis mute and dead,
Its accents all are hush’d and still;
The power is gone—the spirit fled,
And every nerve in death is chill.
But shall that spirit rise no more,
And shall its powers no more revive,
And, on this “Muse deserted shore,”
Shall no such Bard hereafter live?
Oh! Cambria, scorn the hateful dream,
And raise thy drooping downcast head;
Nor longer drop the pearly stream,
Not longer mourn thy Minstrel dead.
For yet some Heaven-taught child of thine,
In ages yet unborn may rise;
Some sapling of this Minstrel’s line,
And lift thy glory to the skies.
A new Market House, Town Hall, &c. have lately been built
here, which is at once an improvement to the Town, and a
convenience to farmers and others of the neighbourhood; a good
Inn, on a commodious plan, adjoins it called the Waterloo
Tavern. Several mean unsightly dwellings, at the East end of the
Church-yard, have been taken down, and a new House erected for
the residence of one of the Vicars. In short, from the
speculative spirit of the inhabitants, and the increasing demand
for Slates at Port Penrhyn, which, as well as the Quay at Hirael,
is generally crowded not only with small craft, but with Ships of
considerable burthen, Bangor seems advancing rapidly into
consequence; it is also of late years become a place of
fashionable resort, particularly in the Summer season. The
population, according to the last Census, in 1811, was
2393, and it may now be stated at nearly 3000. The
principal Inns, are the Castle, near the Cathedral, Crown and
Anchor, and Waterloo Tavern in the Centre; the Penrhyn Arms at
the East, and the Vaynol Arms at the West end of the Town.
Hugh Lupus, in his barbarous inroads into Anglesey, founded a
Castle at Bangor, in order to carry on his ravages with greater
security; it was situated nearly a quarter of a mile Eastward of
the Town, on the ridge of hills which bound the S.E. side of the
Vale, and nearly the same distance from the Port. It was on
a rocky, and in many parts a precipitous hill. Three sides
of the Walls are easily to be traced: on the S.E. side, they
extended a hundred and twenty yards; on the S.W. sixty-six,
ending at a precipice; the N.E. may be traced forty yards, and
ends in the same manner. On the fourth side, the natural
strength of the place rendered a farther defence useless; Mounds
of Earth, tending to a semicircular form, with rocks and
precipices, connect the N.E. and S.W. walls. The precise
time of its demolition is not known, but probably as soon as the
Earl had effected his design it was suffered to fall to ruin.
In this Parish, about a mile and a half to the South of the
Town, was discovered about the year 1806, at a place called Ty
Coch, belonging to Captain Taylor, a Stone, with the following
inscription;
NVMNC
IMP CAESAR M
AVRELANTONINVS
PIVS TI IX AVG ARAB
IX
It is probable, that after the traveller has examined the City
of Bangor and its environs, he may be tempted to cross over to
the Island of Anglesey; and if he be a pedestrian, he would find
the passage over Garth, (formerly called Cadnant) Ferry
the shortest and pleasantest way to Beaumaris; but if the party
have a horse or carriage, the road to Porth Aethwy, (otherwise
called Bangor Ferry) where the new Iron Bridge is now erecting,
must be pursued. And here it may be proper, before we
proceed any further, to inform the stranger that there are six
ferries across the Menai, which I shall mention here in regular
order, beginning with Beaumaris, over the Lavan Sands, to Aber;
2. Garth, near Bangor, which is confined solely to foot
passengers; 3. Porth Aethwy, [53] before-mentioned,
the best, safest, and most convenient; 4. Moel y Donn, a
very safe good ferry, and sober careful boatmen; 5. Tal y
Foel, opposite Carnarvon; 6. Abermenai, at the extreme
Westerly end of the Straits, about three miles below
Carnarvon.—The best rout for any person who may be inclined
to make a tour of the Island, would be to proceed from Bangor
Ferry to Beaumaris, along the delightful new terrace road, made
at the sole expence of that munificent Nobleman, who is an honour
to his Country, Lord Viscount Bulkeley, which may justly be
pronounced one of the most grand and picturesque rides in the
kingdom, commanding a full view of Beaumaris bay, with its
winding Shores, projecting Capes and Promontories, together with
the vast and magnificent chain of Carnarvonshire Hills and
Mountains, towering in succession, in majestic eminence and
grandeur, and in variety of shapes, until their summits are lost
in the clouds. After visiting the Castle and other
Antiquities in and about this beautiful Town, the traveller is
recommended to proceed from Beaumaris to Red Wharf, and along the
Sea-coast to Amlwch, famous for its extensive and lucrative
Copper Mines, and which are well worthy the stranger’s
attention, and from thence to the town of Holyhead, where
Government has erected, at an immense expence, one of the finest
Piers in Great Britain; at the extremity is a very handsome
Light-House, which, together with the Lamps along the Pier, being
lighted up with Gas, renders the Scene, at night, brilliant and
imposing. He may then return into Carnarvonshire either
along the Post Road to Llangefni, and thence to Moel y Donn
ferry, or if he be curious enough to explore the whole of the
Island, along the Western Coast to Aberfraw and Newborough, and
re-cross either at Abermenai, Tal y Foel, or Moel y Donn.
As the Tourist may probably be desirous to know the names of
the gentlemen’s seats, which appear so conspicuous on the
Anglesey shore, from this side the water, and which seem to claim
his attention, as he proceeds along, I shall here for his
satisfaction describe them as they occur, beginning with the most
Easterly, viz. Friers, the seat of Sir Robert Williams, Baronet,
M.P. for the County of Carnarvon; which is situated a mile beyond
Beaumaris, near the Sea coast, not far from the site of a
Religious House of the Franciscan order,—next is Baron
Hill, the seat of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, embosomed in woods, and
commanding a most extensive and enchanting view, having
the Town, Castle, and Bay of Beaumaris in front,—near it is
Red Hill, the residence of Colonel Sparrow,—next in order
is Lady Bulkeley’s neat Cottage, on the Beaumaris new road,
and just below it Craig y Donn, the delightful Summer habitation
of Owen Williams, Esq. M.P. for Great Marlow, who is fond of
sailing, and has an elegant Cutter at anchor near his
house,—next is Cadnant, the seat of J. Price, Esq. in a
small recess on the side of a narrow dingle;—these are the
principal seats to the East of the great Irish road. But,
before we proceed any further, the stranger cannot avoid noticing
the singular situation of a small Church, on a barren rock,
forming a little Peninsula, about a quarter of a mile to the West
of Bangor-Ferry, called Llandissilio. [55] We then
proceed to another small Church, called Llanfair (or St.
Mary’s) Pwll Gwyn Gell,—and near it, the Vicarage
House; and just below that Llanfair Hall, the seat of Colonel
Peacock. And here I must not omit noticing a very elegant
Column, situated on a high rock, behind Llanfair Church, erected
by subscription of £1 each person, (and which was soon
filled, so eager were the gentlemen of the neighbourhood to contribute), and
intended to commemorate the brave, skilful, and intrepid conduct
of that gallant Nobleman, the Marquess of Anglesey, at the Battle
of Waterloo. Not far from hence is that rocky or obstructed
part of the Straits or Channel of the Menai, called by the Welsh
Pwll Ceris, [56] and by the English the Swelly; the fury
of the tide, during ebb and flow, is almost inconceivable, except
by the navigator: here are great over-falls and violent
whirl-pools, but at high water all is still. This is a
great obstacle to the navigation of large vessels, which must
consult the critical season, and provide a good Pilot; and as the
Merchants of Carnarvon, and others, were very apprehensive that
the erection of a Bridge at Bangor Ferry, would materially injure
the Trade, Government has proposed to defray the expence of
blasting the Rocks, and to render every other practicable
facility to the improvement of the navigation in this part of the
Channel.
After this short digression, we now proceed to Plas Newydd,
the magnificent Seat of the Marquess of Anglesey, situated on a
beautiful curve of the Menai, and protected on three sides by
venerable Oak Trees, which reminds us of the Groves, in which the
Druids are represented by Tacitus to have concealed themselves
from the Roman Army, and also recalls to our remembrance the
ancient name of Anglesey, Ynys Dywyll, the Dark Island, on
account of the deep shade of its groves:
— These woods
Were tenanted by Bards, who nightly thence,
Rob’d in their flowing vests of innocent white,
Issu’d with Harps, that glitter to the moon,
Hymning immortal strains.
Mason’s
Caractacus.
It lies within 80 or 100 yards of the Menai, with a fine lawn
in front, sloping to the edge of the water; it commands a fine
view both towards Carnarvon and Bangor, which is rendered doubly
interesting when the tide is in, and the river covered with Ships
of various sizes, together with his Lordship’s Cutter, and
those of T. A. Smith, Esq. of Vaynol, and Owen Williams, Esq. of
Craig y Don, sailing up and down, and contending with each other,
thus rendering the scene more animating. On the contrary,
in boisterous weather, here you behold from your fire side, (if
you please,) the mariner exerting his strength to guide his ship,
and contending with the storm; sweet retreat! delightful
abode!
Suave mari magno, turbantibus æquora
ventis,
E terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.
“Pleasing from danger free, to hear on shore,
The tempests whistle and the billows roar.”
Behind the House are to be seen two vast Cromlechs, the
upper stone of one is twelve feet seven inches long, twelve
broad, and four thick, supported by five tell ones; the
other is but barely separated from the first, is almost a square
of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones. The
number of supporters to Cromlechs are supposed to be
merely accidental, and to depend on the size and form of the
incumbent stone. Dr. Borlase, in his History of
Cornwall, has shewn the improbability of these stones ever
being designed or used as Altars; the figure proves the
impossibility of making fires, or performing sacrifices on their
sloping summits, and almost all which I have seen (observes Mr.
Pennant) have an inclination. It is reasonable to suppose
them to have been sepulchral monuments, (probably of their Arch
Druids) and that the body might be lodged in the space beneath,
and near the monument divine honours might be paid, or sacrifices
performed to the manes of the dead.—This species of
monument is to be found in most parts of Europe, in Scandinavia,
in Holland and in France; in the last, the Pierre Levee,
near Poitiers, is a stupendous specimen; they extend even farther
South, for Mr. Armstrong gives a drawing of one of this nature in
Minorca. They vary in form, in many the space between the
supporters is closed up with stones of greater or lesser size,
and thus formed a sufficient security to the remains of the
deceased therein deposited. Probably all or most of those
which we see in our Island, might originally have been thus
closed up, and the stones since taken away, and applied to other
uses; others are again quite bedded in the Carnedd, as is
the case with that at Llanfaelog, in this Island. Not far
from the Cromlech is a large Carnedd, part of which
has been removed; within was discovered a Cell, about seven feet
long and three wide, covered at the top with two flat stones, and
lined on the sides with others. On the top of the stones
were two semicircular holes, of size sufficient to take in the
human neck; it is conjectured that above might have been another,
so that both together might perform the office of a
stocks.—It is indeed conjecture, yet not an improbable one,
that in this place were confined, the wretches destined for
sacrifice, as it is well known that they performed those
execrable rites, and often upon captives who had suffered long
imprisonment, perhaps in Cells similar to this, and the common
Welsh proverb “Bwrw caeth i Gythraul,” to
offer a captive to the Devil, seems to confirm this
opinion. After the tourist has examined the interior of
Plasnewydd, which he may easily do if he be so disposed, he is
recommended to pay a visit to Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful
Cottage, the Lodge, about a quarter of a mile to the East
of this Princely mansion, where his curiosity will no doubt be
amply gratified, as that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste
and judgment in the embellishment and decoration of that
singularly elegant and much admired residence. Half a mile to
the West, and within the Park, are the Farm and Parish Church,
Llan Edwen, and very near these, in the same direction, is
Plas Coch, a venerable old Mansion, built in the time of Queen
Elizabeth, and lately repaired and improved by the present
Proprietor, Sir W. Bulkeley Hughes, Knight. Next is
Porthamel, [60] late the seat of Mrs. Goodman, now of
W. Massey, Esq.; beyond which are Llanidan Church and Hall, the
latter the admired residence of the Hon. Mr. Ireby, eldest son of
Lord Boston, and nearly opposite Carnarvon, Tref-Arthen, Mr.
Bogue’s, and Maes y Porth, W. P. Lloyd, Esq.
We shall now return to Bangor, and conduct the stranger by
Bangor Ferry, (which, although about a mile further is by far the
most interesting road) to Carnarvon, and as he proceeds he will
find the views constantly changing, and he will frequently be
at a loss which most to admire,—the Sea, the Mountains, or
the landscape, up and down the Menai. Gorphwysfa, [61a] a modern handsome Villa, between the
Inn and the intended new Bridge, built by Lord Lucan, and now the
property and residence of O. A. Poole, Esq. is the first place
likely to attract his attention; this charming spot is much
admired—the grounds are laid out with great taste and
judgment. But before we proceed, the reader is to be
informed that £24,000. have been awarded by a jury, and
allowed by Government, as an indemnification to the Proprietor
for the loss of the profits of the Ferry, in consequence of the
erection of the Bridge. On his right, after he has passed
the ferry, and as he ascends the Hill, is Treborth, the seat of
G. Barlow, Esq. and about a mile further, on the same side of the
road, surrounded by fine woods, and thriving plantations, is
Vaynol, [61b] the occasional residence, at particular
times of the year, of T. A. Smith, Esq. during a month or two in
summer, to enjoy the pleasure of sailing in his Cutter, and a few
weeks in winter, for the amusement of sporting. His usual
abode is at Tedworth, near Andover Hants. This gentleman is
Proprietor of several excellent Slate Quarries, some of which are
considered the most productive of any in this part of the
Principality, next to those of G. H. D. Pennant, Esq.; but the
proper time for visiting these will be during an excursion from
Carnarvon to Llanberris. Vaenol was at one period the
residence of a branch of the Penrhyn Family, who were descended
from Ednyfed Fychan. They obtained a Baronetage June 15,
1622. Sir William Williams, the last of the line, disposed
of his property to Sir Boucher Wrey, with the remainder to King
William in fee, who made a grant of it to an ancestor of the
present proprietor. A curious Seal was discovered near this
place, about two or three years ago, supposed to be that of some
Convent or Monastery, with the image of the Virgin and child, and
bearing the following inscription: S. BEATÆ MARIÆ DE
SI. . . . NE BEC . . .
The next place which deserves to be noticed, in our progress
towards Carnarvon, is Bryn Tirion; the habitation of Thomas
Jones, Esq.; this house, which is nearly opposite Plas Newydd,
stands on a beautiful eminence, and commands an extensive view of the
Straits, as far as Abermenai.—In this neighbourhood, as
well as on the opposite shore, are considerable Lime-stone rocks;
and indications of Iron Ore have also been observed here, and, we
understand, in one instance, a late trial has been attended with
success. It is the general opinion, when these two are
found in considerable quantities, that Coal is not far distant,
and some attempts have been made, at different times, to discover
the vein, but hitherto without effecting that object. Near
this place is Aber y pwll, a Harbour belonging to Mr. Smith,
where his Slate are shipped off, and to which a good new road
has, within these few years, been made from his Quarry.
Half a mile farther is Moel y Don, a safe and commodious horse
Ferry, where no accident has happened in the memory of any person
now living. In the life of Gryffydd, ap Cynan, (one of our
Welsh Princes) it is said that a Castle was built here, by
Aeloedd, King of Dublin, his grandfather by the mother’s
side, and there are still some remains of a fortification, on a
small eminence, close upon the Menai, about three hundred yards
below the Ferry. This place was also rendered memorable on
account of a Bridge of Boats, erected here by King Edward the
First, A.D. 1282, [63] in repassing which, a detachment of his
Army, together with a number of Gascon and Spanish
troops, commanded by Luke de Tany,
were intercepted by the Welsh, who rush’d on them with
hideous shouts, slew numbers, and forced the remainder into the
sea. On this occasion perished the General himself,
together with Roger Clifford the younger, thirteen Knights,
seventeen young gentlemen, and two hundred soldiers.
William Latimer alone escaped by the goodness of his horse, which
swam with him to the Bridge. Even if we suppose that a
panic had seized the English forces at this time, yet a
considerable degree of praise is still due to the intrepidity of
my countrymen, as, when compared with the troops of other
countries, they fought nearly unarmed; in order to be convinced
of which, a person need only read a description of their weapons
and accoutrements, when they accompanied our valiant Prince
Richard Cœur de Lion into France, as given by William
Brito, in Camden’s Remains.
When we have proceeded half a mile, we enter the beautiful
woods of Llanfair, the delightful seat of John Griffith, Esq. a
gentleman, who according the example of his ancestors, and the
custom of “those good old times,” resides constantly
in the country, and gives employment to a number of poor persons,
who would otherwise, in all probability, be chargeable to some
Parish; he does not dismiss from his service the super-anuated
domestic—relieves the wants of the indigent, and promotes
the comfort of the Cottager, by numerous acts of charity, and is
an indulgent and generous Landlord. The neatness of the
fences, the thriving state of the plantations, the rich
appearance of the land, and the judicious management of the
Home-stall, together with the improved method of farming, must
attract the attention of every passenger. Nearer Carnarvon,
on the banks of the Menai, is the small but neat Parish Church of
Llanfair Isgaer, partly re-built at the above gentleman’s
expence, and from which his mansion takes its name. Not far
from hence is Crûg, a house once the property of Sir W.
Williams Wynne, but which was purchased by J. Griffith, Esq. of
Llanfair; it deserves notice as being the place where Meredith ap
Jevan ap Robert of Cesail Gyfarch, ancestor of Sir John Wynne, of
Gwydir, was nursed, and from whence he removed to the
Castle of Dolydd Helen.—This Meredith (as Sir John Wynne
informs us, in the History of the Gwydir Family) married a
daughter-in-law of one Spicer, of Carnarvon, who had an
office in the Exchequer in that Town, and was a person of
£50. per annum, and his son, John Spicer, was a Justice of
the Peace, in the first Commissions after the new Ordinance of
Wales, as we learn from the same authority. Within a mile
of Carnarvon, and near the road, is a handsome modern-built
house, Ty Coch, the residence of the Rev. H.
Jones.—Near this place once stood an old Mansion, called
Plas Bretwn, belonging to the Breretons, a family who probably
came to this country with Edward the First, or soon after; and
nearly in this direction, a new Ferry was established within
these few years, and we lament to state that on the 5th of
August, 1820, owing to the very culpable negligence of the
Ferrymen, in over-loading the boat, and carrying too much sail,
(it being a very windy day) it was upset, and out of 26 persons,
one man only was saved.—A similar accident happened about
37 years ago at Tal y Foel, (the Ferry opposite Carnarvon) with
this difference, that in the former instance the boat sunk in the
day time, and the passengers instantly went down, to rise no
more, and in the latter, it struck on a Sand Bank, in the middle
of the Channel, during the ebb of the tide, where these
unfortunate people remained for many hours, calling for that
assistance, which, owing to the darkness of the night; and the
violence of the storm, it was impossible to afford them. [66] Proceeding along the road, the
traveller cannot but admire the singularly beautiful entrance
to
which is rendered more striking by the summits of the Castle
Towers, Coedhelen Summer-house, as well as the extensive Bay and
foaming Bar, being distinctly seen in the rear of the
Town.—Caernarvon is situated at the month of the Seiont, on
a small Peninsula, formed by that river and the brook Cadnant, on
the verge of the Straits of the Menai, which separate this County
from the Island of Anglesey; this Town is justly the boast of
North Wales, for beauty of situation—goodness of
buildings—regularity of plan, and above all for the
grandeur and magnificence of its Castle. Here an admirer of
nature may forget his cares, in contemplating the greatness of
her works, or rather the stupendous operations of His hand, whose
Almighty fiat, and creative energy, formed this
terrestrial Globe, and called into existence the
“everlasting mountains.” This place,
from its proximity to these wonderful and impregnable barriers,
and its central and salubrious situation, will be found to be a
most eligible station, from which the stranger may make various
and pleasant excursions, some of which will be pointed out at the
end of this article. The town is a square, inclosed with
embattled stone walls on three sides; the Castle defending it on
the South. In the West wall are two round Towers, and two
others protecting the Gate at that point, called by the
Welsh Porth-yr-aur, where there it a battery of 7 guns;
three on the North, one on the N.E.; two supporting the Eastern
entrance, or Porth-mawr, and two to the S.E. making in the
whole twelve Towers.
The town is well built, the streets being at right angles,
with the principal one, (the High Street). Near the Cross
formerly stood the old Town Hall, which continued many years in
ruins, but it has lately been re-built in a more specious and
handsome manner, and is converted into a commodious Market House,
containing Butchers’ Shambles, Fish Stand, and Corn Market;
over these is a large room, which is made use of for the boys of
the National School, until the building now erecting shall be
completed; another containing at present a Depot of Arms,
and a smaller one, where the gentlemen of the Savings Bank
Committee, together with their Clerk and Treasurer, sit from
twelve till two o’clock every Saturday, to receive the
weekly deposits; this is a most excellent institution, and ought
to be universally known and encouraged.
The Castle is founded on a rock, and is almost entire; the
enter walls are of dark grey hewn stone, (a species of lime
stone) with an edging of red ones at the corners and about the
windows, as also in several fascias, which gives it a
handsome appearance. Edward I. built this Castle in a
singular and elegant style, (and probably the Town
likewise, on the site, and out of the ruins of one more ancient,
and bearing the same name [69]) with the revenue of
the See of York, then vacant; a deep narrow foss or ditch, which
has been filled up some years, once defended it on the North
side, or in front, over which there was a drawbridge, leading to
the King’s or principal Gate, which had four Portcullises,
and was a grand and elegant entrance; above it stood the figure
of the Royal Founder, in the act either of drawing or sheathing
his sword, probably the latter, in allusion to the Welsh war
being ended,—under his feet is a defaced shield: this Gate
leads into an oblong Court, originally divided into two parts,
the lower, or that end containing the Regal apartments, seem to
have been again protected by another Wall and Gateway, now
demolished. At the West end of this area is a Polygon
Tower, with three hexagon Turrets issuing from its top, on whose
battlements were eagles, one of which only now remains, (which is
shamefully mutilated and disfigured) whence it was called the
Eagle Tower;—we have the authority of Mr. Pennant for
saying that the Eagle upon the top of this Tower is with good
reason supposed to be Roman, and that Edward found it at old
Segontium.—In a small room, within this Tower, eleven feet
by seven,
Edward the Second is supposed to have been born, April 25th,
1284; a passage separates it from a similar apartment, called the
nursery.—The correctness of this statement is
however doubted by many, for if we may be allowed to judge, from
the small dimensions, and present gloomy and uninviting
appearance of this apartment, it does not seem probable, that the
Queen of England would select it for the place of her
accouchement, when other parts of the Castle afforded much
superior accommodations; on the other hand it may be objected,
that she might have fixed upon it as the place of greatest
security and seclusion,—this however is certain, that
tradition, which is often correct, is in favor of the small
room.
From the top of the Eagle Tower, which most strangers ascend,
the traveller will be able to command a grand, varied and
extensive view, comprehending a great part of the Island of
Anglesey, the Straits of the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, St.
George’s Channel, with the whole range of Carnarvonshire
Hills, from the Peaks of the Rivals, on the S.W. to the huge
Pen-maen-mawr, on the N.E. being about 36 miles in extent.
On the South side, next the River Seiont, are three Hexagon and
three Octagon Towers, and others on the North. On the East
is a magnificent entrance, called the Queen’s Gate, and
through which she is supposed to have entered, with a lofty round
Arch and small Postern; leading to which also, there was, no
doubt, originally a draw-bridge, over the Moat, which formed the
communication between the Seiont and the brook Cadnant, or
present mill stream. These Towers communicate all round, by
noble galleries, and several of them are surrounded by smaller
Towers, peculiar to this and Conway Castle, which seem to have
been the Architect’s two Chef
d’œuvre. In the North East Tower is a deep
well, half filled up, and this, or some other is said to have
contained a dungeon, where it is pretended a man being once let
down to bring up a dog, found a hammer, and that he saw a wooden
door which he was afraid to open; the common people have a
tradition, that there was a subterraneous passage either from
this place or some other part of the Castle, to Coed Helen wood,
on the other side of the river. Some statements assert that
this immense Fortress was completed in one year; others, with
more probability, assure us that it was twelve years in
building. Henry Ellerton, or de Elreton, was appointed
master mason, and perhaps was the Architect, and under him must
have been numbers of other skilful workmen. The Welsh
peasants were employed, no doubt, in waiting upon them, and
supplying them with materials, great part of which was brought
from the ruins of Segontium, and tradition says that much of the
limestone, with which it is built, was conveyed from Twr Kelyn, near Plas
Newydd, in Anglesey, and of the grit stone from Vaenol.—The
Menai greatly facilitated the carriage from both places.
The exterior walls are in general about three yards in thickness;
and from its situation and strength, it seems to have been well
adapted to overawe the newly acquired subjects of its
founder.
This noble and venerable pile, from whatever point it is
contemplated, or at whatever distance it is viewed, forms a most
interesting object, particularly when it is considered that it
was once the residence of Royalty, and gave birth to the first
Prince of Wales, of the English line,—what wonder and
astonishment must it not have excited in the minds of the poor
peasants, dwelling at the foot of Snowdon, and unused to see any
other habitations than their own humble dwellings, when beholding
this vast and magnificent Castle, advancing by slow degrees, to
its present height and magnitude. When it is considered
that it has withstood the shocks of more than five hundred
winters, it seems wonderful that it should still appear so
perfect and entire; for what is there that does not at last fade
and decay, and yield by degrees to the war of elements, and the
siege of time:
— The Tower, that long hath stood
The crash of Thunder, and the warring Winds,
Shook by the slow but sure destroyer—Time
Now hangs
in doubtful ruins o’er its base;
And flinty pyramids, and walls of brass
Descend; the Babylonian Spires are sunk;
Achaia, Rome, and Egypt moulder down.
This huge rotundity, we tread grows old;
And all those Worlds that roll about the Sun,
The Sun himself shall die and ancient night,
Again involve the desolate Abyss.
After this Monarch had subdued the Welsh, he began to secure
his conquests, by erecting several strong holds, in different
parts of Wales, and it appearing that Carnarvonshire, on account
of its Mountains and Morasses, was a County very likely to
encourage insurrections, he determined to guard as much as
possible against such an event, by erecting this and Conway
Castle, two of the completest and strongest Fortresses in the
Principality, and perhaps not inferior to any in the Kingdom.
The reason generally assigned for the King’s conduct, in
bringing his beloved Queen, Eleanor, to such a distance, and at
such an inclement season of the year, (for it was in the winter)
to lie in, is the following: viz. that perceiving the Welsh
remembered but too keenly the oppressions of the English
Officers, who in former reigns had been placed over them, they
peremptorily informed the King, that they were determined not to
yield obedience to any Prince, except one of their own nation; he
found it necessary to make use of an innocent artifice, and a
pardonable piece of policy: he therefore concealed his intentions
for a time, and secretly dispatched trusty messengers to the
English Court, in order to conduct the Queen into Wales; and it
is related, that soon after the birth of the young Prince, he
summoned together the Welsh Nobles, and persons of the greatest
rank and influence in the Principality, and asked them whether
they would submit to be governed by a young man born in Wales,
and one who could not speak of word of English, and that when
they answered him in the affirmative, he presented to them his
own son, saying to them at the same time (as well as he could
pronounce the words) Eich Dyn, [74] i.e. this is
your man—corrupted afterwards into Ich
Dien. It ought however to have been previously
mentioned, that the King was at Rhuddlan Castle, during the
Queen’s confinement, and we are informed by Leland, that
when Griffith Lloyd, of Tregarnedd in Anglesey, brought him the
joyful intelligence of the birth of a son, he was immediately
Knighted, and rewarded with one of the Manors of the Welsh
Princes, called Llys yn Dinorweg, in the Parish of
Llanddeiniolen, now the property of T. A. Smith, of Vaenol,
Esq.—The first Governor of this Castle, appointed by Edward, was
John de Havering, with a salary of 200 Marks; with which he was
obliged to maintain constantly, besides his own family, fourscore
men, of which fifteen were to be cross-bowmen, one Chaplain, one
Surgeon, and one Smith; the rest were to do the duty of keepers
of the Gates, Centinels, and other necessary Officers. In
1289, Adam de Wetenhall was appointed to the same important
office. The establishment for Town and Castle was as
follows: The Constable of the Castle had sometimes £60. at
others only £40. The Captain of the Town had
£12. 3s. 4d. for his annual fee; but this office was
sometimes annexed to the former, and then Sixty was the Salary
for both. The Constable and the Captain had Twenty-four
Soldiers allowed them for the defence of the place, at the wages
of fourpence per day each. This was considered as the
amount of the establishment during peace. The Porter of the
Gates of the Town had for his annual fee, £3. 10s.
The following are the only instances known, of this place having
suffered by the calamities of war, viz. in the great insurrection
of the Welsh, under Madoc, in 1294, when they surprised the Town,
during the time of a Fair, and put many English to the sword, got
possession of this as well as Conway Castle, and made themselves
masters of all Anglesey. During the rebellion of Owen
Glyndwr, about the year 1404, Ieuan (Evan) ap Meredith, of
Eifionydd, and Meredith ap Hwlkyn Llwyd, of Glynn Llifon, had the
charge of the Town of Carnarvon, (as Sir John Wynne informs us),
and an English Captain defended the Castle; when the said Owen
Glyndwr and his party, in revenge at not being able to gain
possession, burned Ievan ap Meredith’s two houses, Cefn y
Fann, and Kesail gyfarch. Captain Swanly, a Parliamentarian
Officer, took the Town, in 1644, made 400 prisoners, and got a
great quantity of arms, ammunition, and pillage. The
Royalists afterwards repossessed themselves of the
place,—Lord Byron was appointed Governor,—was
besieged by General Mytton, in 1646, and yielded the place on the
most honorable terms. In 1648, the General himself, and
Colonel Mason, were besieged in it, by Sir J. Owen, who, hearing
that Colonel Carter and Colonel Twisselton were on the march to
relieve the place, drew a part of his forces from the siege, in
order to attack them on the way; the parties met at Dalar Hir,
near Llandegai, Sir John was defeated, and made prisoner; after
which, all North Wales submitted to the Parliament.
After this concise History of the Castle, we shall now
endeavour to give a short description of the Town, within the
walls, and then proceed to the suburbs; the former consists
principally of seven streets, viz. The High Street, 2. King
Street, or Castle Street, 3. Market Street, 4. Red Lion, or
Plas-mawr Street, 5. Black Boy Street, 6. Newgate Street, and 7.
Church Street; to which may be added, 8. Pen y Deits, or
the head, or end of the Ditch or Moat; 9. Hole in the Wall
Street, and, 10. Pepper Alley.
The High Street, which is the handsomest, consists principally
of Shops and Lodging-houses, and has in its centre, (or rather at
the entrance into Market Street) the old Town Hall, and, present
Market House, already noticed; and at the upper or East end, over
the Gateway called Porth mawr, is the present Guild-Hall,
formerly an Exchequer Office, it was re-built in the year 1767,
at the joint expence of Sir William Wynn, and Sir John Wynn,
Baronet, as appears by an inscription in front of it; in the
interior are handsome Portraits of each, as also of the late Earl
of Uxbridge, father of the present Marquis of Anglesey.
Here the Member for the Borough is elected; their present
Representative is the Hon. Captain Paget. This place is
also used as an Assembly Room, where the Michaelmas and other
Balls, such as those given by the High Sheriff, during the
Assizes, and by Members at elections, are held; and in order to
light it up in a handsome manner, the late Lord Uxbridge
presented the Corporation with a beautiful glass lustre.
The Corporation consists of a Mayor, who is as such Constable
of the Castle; (the appointment is by the King, and continues during
pleasure;—the Office is at present held by the Marquis of
Anglesey), Deputy-Mayor, appointed by the Mayor; Two Bailiffs and
a Recorder, elected annually by the Burgesses; Two Town-Stewards,
Two Serjeants at Mace, One Beadle, Four Sidesmen, and Four
Constables, elected annually by the Mayor and Bailiffs.
These go in procession to St. Mary’s Chanel, 29th
September, being Michaelmas-day, and after service return to the
Guild-Hall, to elect new Officers for the ensuing year, and admit
new Burgesses. There are Borough Courts held here every
fortnight, to transact business, and to hear and redress
grievances; at the second Court after Michaelmas-day, twelve of
the Town Burgesses are sworn as a Jury, whose business it is to
perambulate the liberties of the Town, to present nuisances and
encroachments, as well as to see what repairs are wanted, and to
make a Report of the same. At one of these, the present
entrance to the Castle was presented for consideration, whether
it would not be adviseable to place it in repair, but from the
opinion of an eminent Barrister; who has been consulted on the
occasion, it appears that the Corporation have no authority so to
do, the property being vested in the King, as are also the Town
Walls.
High Street is terminated on the West by Porth yr aur, on the
outside of which is a very pleasant terrace walk, on the shore
of the Menai, of which it commends a full view; this and the
Bangor road are considered the two fashionable promenades, of the
inhabitants. Edmund Griffith, of Penrhyn, lived at
Porth-yr-aur. Sir Rowland Brittayne, Constable of Carnarvon
Castle, married Agnes, sister to the above Edmund Griffith;
Rowland Griffith, of Carnarvon and Tref Arthen, was son of Sir
William Griffith.—This last attended Henry VIII. to France,
as Lewis Môn, the Welsh Bard, informs us in one of his
Poems. So late as Fifty or Sixty years ago, and for a long
time prior to that period, several of the principal families of
this and the neighbouring County, had a Town House at Carnarvon,
where they generally used to spend the winter, and others resided
here constantly; most of these were persons possessed of good
incomes, and many of them kept their own carriages, had always a
goad table, and lived in the good old hospitable style of their
ancestors, so that when a gentleman happened to come into the
town, if he had any acquaintance with some of these families, he
generally went to his friend’s house, and not to an
Inn. Carnarvon was not at that time become such a
commercial place as it is at present. These houses, and
indeed every gentleman’s residence, was then, and is still
distinguished by the name of Plas. The above short
introduction was thought necessary in order to notice some
of these old Mansions, which have either been taken down,
deserted, or converted to other uses: Plas Issa, at one time the
property of the Coed Helen Family, and Porth yr aur, belonging to
the late Evan Lloyd, of Maes y Porth, Esq. were two old houses of
this description, at the lower end of this street, the one taken
down, and the other in ruins; Plas Bowman, between Church Street
and Market Street, was another, and in King’s Head Street,
there is one still left, Plas Llanwnda, where the
proprietor, R. Garnons, Esq. resided for several months in the
winter; and with true gentlemanly politeness supports the ancient
credit of the House, for munificence and hospitality, and kind
attention to the wants of the poor. Quirt is another house
in this street, at one time belonging to the Williams’s of
Quirt, in Anglesey, and of Glan yr afon, in this County, which
was made use of several years as an Inn. In this Street
also, at the back part of a public house, called Glan yr afon, is
an old building; supposed to have been at one time either a
Chapel belonging to the garrison, or to some private
family. Plas Spicer, in Church Street, is an old house
which claims our attention next, once belonging to a family of
that name, but which has long since been extinct. Plas
Mawr, belonging to William Griffith, Esq. a branch of the Vaenol
and Penrhyn families, then resident at Trefarthen, in Anglesey,
and Plas Pilston, the present Red Lion, are the two last we shall
mention. There is a handsome Monument to the memory of the
former at Llanbeblig, which we shall notice when we come to
describe that Church, over the door are the following initials,
W.G. M.G.—in another part, J. G. M. G. date, 1590.
With respect to the latter, it is remarkable only on account of
its antiquity, and the fate of its original Proprietor, Sir Roger
de Puleston, a distinguished favourite of Edward I. He had
been appointed Sheriff, and Keeper of the County of Anglesey, in
1284: what office he held here is uncertain; but being directed
in 1294, to levy the subsidy for the French war, a Tax the Welsh
had never been accustomed to, they took up Arms, and hanged De
Pulesdon, and several of his people. This was a signal for
a general Insurrection,—Madoc, a Relation of the late
Prince Llywelyn, headed the people of this County. Edward
marched against them in person, and with great difficulty reduced
the country to submit again to his yoke.
In Newgate Street, is the County Gaol, built about 18 or 20
years ago, by Mr. Penson of Wrexham; it was then considered by
much too large, but we lament to say that at present it is
frequently crowded; adjoining, but fronting Ditch Street, is the
County Hall, at the West end of which is the Grand Jury Room,
both spacious and commodious. In the former, over the
Bench, is the likeness of J. Garnons, Esq. at one time
Prothonotary on this Circuit; in the latter, that of Hugh
Leycester, Esq. our highly respected Chief Justice: a gentleman,
who by his upright conduct, inflexible integrity, just and
impartial decisions, and deep legal knowledge, has deservedly
acquired a very high reputation in his profession; and who by his
politeness of manners, and affability of demeanour, has justly
endeared himself to the Inhabitants of this part of the
Principality, and particularly to the Gentlemen of this County,
who wishing to retain among them the resemblance of the person
whom they so highly esteem and respect, and with whom they have
been in the habit of friendly intercourse for many years, have
requested him to sit for his picture, the expence of which was
defrayed by voluntary Contributions; from the eagerness to come
forward on the occasion, the Subscription was completed in a very
short time, besides leaving a handsome surplus in the hands of
the Committee, who gave £20 of it to the Widows and Orphans
of those who perished in the Brig Elizabeth, which was upset and
lost early last year, near Carnarvon Bar; the remainder is placed
in the Bank, to be appropriated to the first charitable purpose
that offers. Adjoining the Grand Jury Room are the Offices
of the Prothonotary and Clerk of the Peace, and near to
these, outside of the walls, at the extremity of the Quay or
Pier, is the Custom-House, a substantial and convenient modern
Building.
St. Mary’s Chapel, is situated on the North West, of the
Town, adjoining one of the Towers of the Wall: it is represented
by most authors, as having originally been built for the use of
the Garrison, and to have afterwards been claimed by the
Corporation. Some years ago, either the Curate, or the
Clerk by his direction, used to go about the town at Easter, to
collect Donations and Subscriptions, for performing English
Service, in this Chapel. It is now generally called the
Town Church, and is served by the Vicar of Llanbeblig. It
was rebuilt in the year 1812, (with the exception of the old
arches) partly by Subscription, assisted by the Corporation, who
annually let a number of Pews as their property. The
Marquis of Anglesey presented them with an excellent Organ, which
is considered a very fine toned Instrument.
The Suburbs, or Town without the Walls, consists of the
following Streets: viz. Porth-mawr Street; the Bank or Dock Quay,
where there are several good brick houses; Y Pendist, or Turf
Square; Crown Street; Bangor Street; Old Boot Street: North Pen
yr allt, or Toot-Hill Street; South Pen yr allt, formerly called,
Stryd y Priciau Saethu; Pont Bridd, or Bridge Street; Stryt
y Llyn, or Pool Street; Treffynon, or Holywell; Tre’r Gof,
or Smithfield; Skinners Lane; Y Maes Glas, or Green; and the
Green Gate Street.
Carnarvon is greatly improved, and considerably enlarged
within these last thirty years;—at the entrance from
Bangor, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, a large, handsome, and
commodious Inn, was built by the late Lord Uxbridge, which is
kept by Mr. George Bettiss, and where the Traveller will meet
with every attention and civility, and will find the
accommodations excellent, and the charges
reasonable.—Within the same period was erected that
handsome row of houses called the Green, terminated on the East
side by the Goat Inn, built by Thomas Jones, Esq., of Bryntirion,
who is the proprietor thereof; here also the Stranger will meet
with every attention, and where the accommodations are good, and
the charges moderate. In front of these houses there was a
high bank, some years ago, which, besides intercepting the view,
was very inconvenient to ascend and descend, particularly at the
time of fairs, which are held here; this was removed about four
years ago, partly by Subscription, but chiefly at the expence of
the Parish and Corporation, who employed the Poor during those
dear Times, in removing the earth, and wheeling it down to the
Quay, which also was erected about eighteen years ago, and has lately
been extended, and rendered more spacious and convenient, so that
it now affords every facility and accommodation to Vessels
loading and unloading. The Slate Quarries, (as has before
been observed) are the chief sources of the Wealth and Commerce
of this County; and in these, thousands of the Inhabitants, are
constantly employed; and scores, if not hundreds of Waggons and
Carts are engaged in bringing down the productions of the
Quarries to this Town, where they are shipped to various parts of
the World. The average annual Amount of Exports from Port
of Carnarvon, is at present, about £50,000, but there is
every reason to suppose, that, were Rail-roads formed from the
several Slate Quarries in the neighbourhood, the Export Trade
would be very much increased; as then a supply of Sates might
always be secured on the Quays; whereas now, from the uncertainty
of such supply, and the consequent delay, proprietors and masters
of Vessels are unwilling to expose themselves to the risque of
incurring a heavy expence, in waiting their turn to load; this
operates more particularly on large Vessels, their expences being
heavy, in proportion to their size; and it is certain, that many
Americans and other foreigners, are deterred by these
circumstances from coming to this Port for Slate.
The
long desired Light on Bardsey Island, the establishment of which
is now decided on, and which it is intended by the Corporation of
Trinity House, shall be exhibited in the ensuing Autumn, is
likely to prove of incalculable benefit; not only to the Coasting
Trade of this and the neighbouring Ports, but to Trade in
general.
Steam Packets might be established between Carnarvon and
Dublin. At times when the tide might not answer for landing
at the Town, on account of the difficulty of passing the Bar,
they would always find a safe and commodious landing place at
Llanddwyn Point, about seven miles distant from Carnarvon; with
the capability of a good Carriage Road to the Town being made, at
a small expence. The late improvements at Llanddwyn, have
rendered it particularly eligible for the above purpose, the
Trustees of Carnarvon Harbour having erected a Breakwater, and
Beacon, for the safety and comfort of Navigators. The
distance from Carnarvon to Capel Curig, through the beautiful and
romantic Pass of Llanberis, is eighteen miles; from Holyhead, by
Bangor Ferry forty-two miles: The traveller would therefore save
twenty-four miles, by adopting the former line.
This Town is capable of much improvement, as a place of resort
for strangers, particularly in the Summer season; at which
period, it is even now visited by many, but from the want of
sufficient comfortable accommodation, and other conveniences to
induce them to remain, a weekly, nay almost a daily change is
observable, in a continued succession of visitors. Were
comfortable Lodging Houses erected, with Baths attached, (which
might be done with much ease) and the shore cleared, at certain
convenient points, with public Machines, and Attendants, there is
little doubt of this delightfully situated Town, becoming in a
short time a favourite Watering Place, and consequently,
improving rapidly.
Edward I. bestowed on Carnarvon its first Royal Charter, and
made it a free Borough: among other privileges, none of the
Burgesses could be convicted of any crime committed between the
Rivers Conway and Dyfi, unless by a Jury of their own
Townsmen. The representative of the place is elected by its
Burgesses, and those of Conway, Pwllheli, and Crickaeth; the
right of voting is in every one, resident, or non-resident,
admitted to their Freedom. Bondsmen in former times, living
in the Town a year and a day, and paying scot and lot, gained
their liberty, and in those days Jews were not permitted to
reside here. The first member was John Puleston; and the
second time it sent representatives, (which was the 1st Edward
VI) it chose Robert Puleston, and the County elected John, as if
both Town and County determined to make reparation to the family,
for the cruelty practised on their ancestor. It gives the
title of Marquis to James Brydges, Lord Chandos; and that of
Earl, to Henry Herbert, Baron Porchester, who was created a Baron
Oct. 17, 1780, and advanced to the Earldom June 29, 1793.
Leland, who travelled through this County, in the time of Henry
VIII. makes the following observation, with regard to the
situation of Carnarvon, in his Itinerary, “Cadnant brook,
rising three miles off, cometh through the Town Bridge of
Caernarvon, and goeth by itself into the Menai area, so that
Caernarvon standeth betwixt two Rivers, both coming into the said
straits of the Menai.”
In this Parish there are 700 Houses assessed for Poor’s
Rate, 517 of which are in the Town; adding to these the number of
families excused from poverty, and those who receive parochial
Relief, it may reasonably be inferred, that the Population of
Carnarvon is about 6000, exclusive of Mariners. There needs
no other observation on the salubrity of the air, than the
following extract from the Report of the Select Vestry of
Carnarvon, in 1819:—“Among those who receive
Parochial Relief, are 19, aged from 80 to 90 years; 28, from 70
to 80; 42, from 60 to 70; and 39, from 50 to 60.”
In the Town are the following Dissenting Chapels, a
Presbyterian Chapel in Bangor Street,—the Calvinist’s
at Pen yr allt,—the Wesleyans’ in Smithfield, or
Tre’r gof, and the Baptists’ at Treffynon.
There are five Fairs held annually at Carnarvon, viz. March 12th,
May 16th, August 12th, September 20, and December 5.
The following beautiful Stanzas, appeared in the North Wales
Gazette, November 27, 1812, signed Junius, which may not be thought out of
place here; they were written by Mr. B. Brocas, at that time
residing in this Town:
Does thy Harp, O Cambria, Slumber?
Are thy sainted Bards no more?
Once it breath’d a sweeter number
Than e’er sigh’d round Scylla’s
shore.
Where are now those magic wonders,
Which its touch could once inspire?
Where thy Minstrels’ martial thunders,
Glanc’d from hands and lips of fire.
Are thy glories sunk for ever,
Are they set to rise no more?
Must we henceforth hail them never,
On this muse-deserted shore?
Yes! prophetic Science hear’s me,
Thus bewail her ancient seat,
Lifts her spoil crown’d head, and cheers me,
Echoing thus the cry of fate:—
“Thy bless’d shade, O Taliesin!
Waft on soft Elysian gales,
To impart thy heav’n-taught lesson,
To some favour’d child of Wales.
“Let Thy Spirit hover o’er him,
Strike him with thy hallow’d fire:
Prostrate nations shall adore him,
Deck’d with Thy immortal lyre.
“Thus shall Cambria once more flourish,
High, as e’er in times of yore;
And her sacred soil, still nourish
Heav’n born bards for evermore.”
We
cannot quit this place without informing the stranger, (if he be
not already aware of the circumstance) that a Society has been
lately established here, as well as in the other Divisions of the
Principality, which has been denominated the
“Cymmrodorion Society in Gwynedd;” and whose
object is the preservation of Ancient British
Literature,—Poetical, Historical, Antiquarian, Sacred, and
Moral, and the encouragement of National Music. The term
Cymmrodorion has been adopted, (as specified by the Members of
the Committee in Powys) more particularly out of respect to an
ancient Society of that name, established in London, 1751, under
the Patronage of his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales. An
Eisteddfod, or Congress of Bards, was held at Carmarthen, July 8,
1819, under the sanction of Lord Dynevor, and the Bishop of St.
David’s; and another at Wrexham, September 13, 1820, under
the Patronage of Sir W. W. Wynne. A similar Meeting is to
take place at Carnarvon, sometime in the course of the ensuing
Autumn, when our greatly esteemed and highly respected Lord
Lieutenant, Viscount Warren Bulkeley, it is hoped will
preside. Several Meetings have already been held, a
Committee formed, and regulations made in order to promote its
success, and ensure a full attendance.
Old Segontium occupies the summit of a hill, about a quarter
of a mile to the South East of the present Town, and is intersected
by the road leading to Bethgelert; its ancient British name was
Caer Sallawg: [91] it is about 150 yards in length, and
100 wide; some remains of the Roman Walls are still visible, (now
covered with Ivy) particularly near the South East corner.
Some years back there appeared the remnant of a building, made
with tiles, and plaistered with very hard and smooth mortar; this
is supposed to have been part of a Hypocaust. The
mortar in all other parts is very hard, and mixed with much
gravel, and sand. This ancient Station forms an oblong of
very considerable extent, seemingly from four to six Acres.
Camden suspects that this might have been the Setantiorum,
Porlus of Ptolemy being willing to read it Segontiorum,
but the situation of the former is certainly at the mouth of the
Ribble. He is most probably right, in supposing it to have
been, in after times, named Caer Cwstenin, or the Castle of
Constantine; and that Hugh Lupus, who certainly invaded
Anglesey, in 1098, had here a temporary post. Mathew of
Westminster asserts, (but upon what authority is not mentioned)
that Constantius, father of Constantine, was interred here, and
that Edward caused the body to be taken up, and honourably
reburied in the Church, (probably of St. Publicius). Mr.
Rowlands in his history of Anglesey says, that Helen, the
supposed mother of this reputed Saint had a Chapel [92] here, which, he tells us, was in being
in his days. Near the steep Bank of the Seiont, about one
hundred yards from the end of Pool Street, and divided by the
road leading to Clynnog and Pwllheli, are the ruins of a Roman
Fort, connected, no doubt, with Old Segontium, and intended, as
it is conjectured, to protect the landing from the
river.—On two sides the walls are pretty entire, one is
seventy-four yards long, the other sixty-four; height ten feet
eight inches, thickness six feet. A great part of the
facing is taken away, which discovers the peculiarity of the
Roman masonry; it consists of regular courses, the others have
the stones disposed in zigzag fashion. Along the walls are
three parallel lines of round holes, not three inches in diameter
(nicely plaistered within) which pass through the whole
thickness. There are other similar holes, which are
discovered in the end of the Wall, and some to run through it
lengthways. There are various conjectures respecting
the use for which these were intended, the most probable is, that
they were for the purpose of holding the scaffolding, which were
supported, it is likely, by cylindrical iron bars, and when taken
out, the air was admitted to harden the mortar, which was poured
into the work in a liquid state. Near one corner, some
years ago, the foundation of a round Tower was discovered; it was
paved, and in it were found the horn of a deer, and skeletons of
some lesser animals. There were similar ruins on the
opposite shore, and within these few years, in scouring the
channel of the river, large pieces of a curious old foot Bridge
were discovered, supposed to have been Roman.—A gold coin,
of about seventeen shillings weight, was found here, inscribed T.
DIVI AVG FIL AVGVSTVS. And a small one, of mixed metal,
with a head, and the following legend on one side: ANTONINVS AVG
PIVS P P TR. P. XXII. on the other a female figure, leading a
small animal with her right hand, and holding a spear in her
left, and the following letters, SALVTI AVG COS IIII. And a
stone with the following Letters, continued for many years, in a
wall near the road, about the centre of Segontium, and which has
lately disappeared, S V C supposed by some to mean, Segontium
urbs Constantine. Cadwallon, one of the Princes of Wales,
about A.D. 620, (on account of Anglesey being infested by the
Irish and Pictish Rovers) removed the British Court from Aberffraw, where
it had been placed about 200 years before, by Caswallon law hir,
to Segontium. The Roman road from Segontium to Dinorwig,
and thence to Cornovium, was visible on a part of Rhos Bodrual,
till within these few years, when that part of the Common was
cultivated.
The Mother or Parish Church of Carnarvon, called Llanbeblig,
is situated about one hundred yards beyond, or to the East of old
Segontium, and according to our Historians, is dedicated to St.
Publicius, Son of Macsen Wledig, (Maximus the Tyrant) and his
Wife Helen, Daughter of Endef, Duke of Cornwal.—It is said
that he retired from the World, and took a religious habit.
Richard II. bestowed this Church, and the Chapel at Carnarvon, on
the Nuns of St. Mary’s, in Chester, in consideration of
their poverty; and in the recital of another Charter of the same
Prince, it is mentioned that his Grandfather, Edward III. had
bestowed on those Religious, the Advowson of Llangathen, in
Carmarthenshire; both which on the Dissolution, were annexed to
the See of Chester, and remain to this day, under the Patronage
of the Bishop of that Diocese. In a recess to the North of
the Communion Table, is an elegant Altar Tomb, with the following
inscription: Here lieth the body of William Griffith, Esq. the
Son of William Griffith, Knight, who died Nov. 28, 1587, and
Margaret his Wife, Daughter of John Wynne ap Meredith, Esq. who
built this Tomb, 1593. [95]—Their figures
are in white Marble, lying on a mat, admirably carved; he is in
armour, she has on a short quilled ruff, and ruffles at her
wrists, in a long gown, and a sash around her waist. And in
the Churchyard, some years ago, was the following, which it may
be useful to preserve, as it is very probable that a house in
this neighbourhood, Cae Bold, took its name from this
family:—Here lyeth the body of Ellin Bold, Daughter of
William Bold, Esq. and Wife to John Ranshcraf, of Breton, Gent.
who died 1st day of April, 1663. And near it the following:
Here lyeth interred the body of John Smyth, of Carnarvon, the
elder, who died the 23d day of May, A.D. 1645. In the late
Mr. Foxwist’s pew, in the said Church, on a brass plate, is
the following inscription;
In quo præ multis, scribend i gloria
fulsit,
Ricardus Foxwist, hic pede tritus adest,
Annus Christi tutus fuit M.D: luce patrici
Dum tenet expirans, vulnera quinque tua;
Corporis atque tui, tandem pars, aditur alt’ra,
Dum conjux uno, clauditur in tumulo,
Hæcque Johanna fuit, ac Spicer nata Johanne;
Pauperibus larga, justa, pudica; fuit,
Several pleasant excursions may be recommended to the Tourist,
whilst resident at Carnarvon: 1st. He may either cross the
Strait by the Carnarvon Ferry, called Tal y Foel, and examine
Newborough, (once the seat of our ancient Princes) and that part
of the Anglesey coast, or, engage a boat, and sail down to Aber
Menai; visit the Barracks, called by the Welsh Y Belan, and
proceed from thence to the once celebrated Peninsula of
Llanddwyn, which, though in the time of Edward III. it contained
only eight small houses, (then called Weles,) yet in the
reign of Henry VIII. was one of the richest Prebends in the
Cathedral of Bangor; its wealth arose not from the real fertility
of the place, but from the superstition of the common
people—from pilgrimages to crosses, reliques, Holy wells,
ordeals, and what Mr. Rowlands calls ichthuomania, or
divination from Fishes.—In the time of Owen Glyndwr, one
Yorwerth Vychan, Rector of Llanddoged, made pretentions to the
Offerings, and sacrilegiously seized on them; but Griffith le
Yonge, Chancellor to that Chieftain, interfered, and by a decree
of his, put a stop to the invasion of the rights of the place:
Here are still visible the ruins of the old Church, dedicated to
St. Dwywen, Daughter of Brychan, one of the holy Colidei,
or primitive Christians of Britain, who distinguished themselves
by living in seclusion and retirement.—Near it are some of
the remains of the prebendal house:—The first appears to
have been no inelegant building; the last is noted for the residence
of Richard Kyffin, Rector of this place, and Dean of Bangor,
before mentioned. The Barracks, above alluded to, were
created about 35 or 40 years ago, by the late Lord Newborough, of
Glyn Llifon, when he was Colonel of the Militia of this County,
for the accommodation of the men when called out on permanent
duty.
Some of the Inhabitants of Carnarvon are frequently employed
in fishing, during the greatest part of the year, both in the
Menai and Carnarvon Bay; the fish principally taken are the
following, viz. Cod, Turbot, Soles, Salmon, Mullet, Bream, Ray,
&c. all excellent in their kind; Oysters are also taken on
the Anglesey coast. There is a small Creek, or Harbour near
the point of Llanddwyn, where vessels frequently put in to await
the return of the Tide. A red and a black Buoy, and also a
Perch, have been placed near the entrance of Carnarvon Bar, for
the direction of Navigators. The Botanist, Naturalist,
Sailor, or Sportsman, would find sufficient employment, and meet
with considerable amusement during a short voyage of this
description, as there are varieties of Shells on the sea shore,
some scarce Plants on the rocks, and Rabbits in the sand
banks. The Straits of the Menai have frequently been the
scene of many a bloody encounter between the Welsh, Irish; Danes,
&c. and the reader may not probably be displeased with our
introducing here, a part of Gray’s spirited version of the
Rev. Evan Evans’s translation of Gwalchmai’s Ode, [98a] celebrating the victory of Prince Owen
Gwynedd, over three fleets of Irish, Danish, and Norman Pirates,
at Tal y Foel, nearly opposite Carnarvon, on the Anglesey Coast,
about the year 1158: “Ardwyrëaf hael o hil
Rodri,” &c.
Owen’s praise demands my
Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.
Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.
Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon [98b] son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
Tal y Moelfre’s [98c] rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward Menai rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
Where his
glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.
The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the
Llanllyfni Slate Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were
formerly called the Bala Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y
Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and return by Quellyn Lake and
Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this rout,
particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from
Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled
Carriage, and it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that
portion of it. The whole of this circuit, as before
described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, (a mountain which forms so
remarkable a feature in the landscape from Carnarvon) will make a
distance probably of about one and twenty miles. Persons
who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the
County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off
after an early breakfast; they would then be able to return by
three or four o’clock. The first part of the journey,
for two miles and a half, is along the Pwllheli road; about that
distance, (a few yards beyond a small bridge) the turn on the
left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts (of which the
stranger will meet with a great number) will be a sufficient
direction. It is thought necessary to mention these
particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to
point the way, and but few of the country people understand the
English language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to
engage a good intelligent guide, well recommended by some
gentleman resident at Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and
below which the Scenery is very beautiful) is a bridge within a
short mile of the town, and between which and Pont Newydd,
(another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) there is
a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called
Castellmai, the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were
the following, as appears by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late
Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn,
Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, Esq. Sir W. Williams,
Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of Llanfaglan, ditto, John
Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, Esq. Hugh Griffith,
Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: Llanwnda
Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas
Williams, Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.
There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last
mentioned bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh
Pedigrees) as the birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron
Saint of the Irish; has genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y
Saint, published in the Myvyrian Archaiology: Padric Sant ap
Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg yn
Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as
Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or
Clyde’s Dale) in Scotland, and several places in
Ireland. The river Gorfai is the boundary between
the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the Hundred or Cantrev
of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on the
right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain
Jones.—This appears to have been one of the principal Roman
Encampments in this neighbourhood, and to have had several small
out-posts connected with it, which was the case also with Dinas
Dinlle, a remarkable tumulus, or eminence, on the
sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with Craig y
Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of
Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with
the subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter
insert. About a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy,
on the right, is Llanwnda, a small Church, dedicated to St.
Gwyndaf. The Rectorial Tithes are annexed to the
Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, which
is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of
Llan Faglan, dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai,
is in the Patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. The population
of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and of Llan Faglan 102. Near
a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called Glann y Rhyd, the
Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives within a
mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on the
left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and
he will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the
Scenery here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds
its beauty gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it
displays itself in all its grandeur and magnificence. This
Defile is bounded on the South and East by mountains of
considerable height and magnitude, which assume a variety of
shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this
narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson
took his celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and
so deservedly admired; the situation was probably near the
Nantlle Lakes, where Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for
some days; and from thence issued several of his Edicts, some
dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one from Carnarvon, as
late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which shews what
attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his new
Dominions. The place which he occupied here during
that time, was called Bala [103] Deulyn, and had
been in the possession of the descendants of the Welsh Princes,
ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as appears from authorities
mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the Gwydir Family,
to which we have before alluded.
The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are
the Cilgwyn and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply
the place of another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was
broke; they are situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we
soon shall have occasion to notice in our progress to Clynog) and
their produce is conveyed to Carnarvon. The variation in
the size of the Slates took place about 75 years ago; before that
time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions, and very
small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became
necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name,
and being doubled in size, and also in price, they were
denominated Doubles, and one thousand of these were
considered and accounted by the Workmen as equal to two
thousand; the first sort was therefore distinguished by the name
of Singles.—Some time after, another sort was
introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those
called doubles, and were therefore called Double
doubles, and the men counted every thousand of these as four
thousand: afterwards a still larger sort was found necessary, and
General Warburton, the proprietor of the Penrhyn Estate, being in
the country about that time, is said to have given these last,
the honorable name of Countesses; and the former, viz. the
double doubles, he denominated Ladies; since that time two
others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are
distinguished by the names of Duchesses and
Queens. The colour of these States, as well as those
of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig and Llanrug, though of
an equally good, if not better quality, differ a little from
those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the
former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the
latter are of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed
that an ancient prophecy of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus
Caledonius) received its accomplishment when these Quarries were
discovered, and so many men employed, viz. That the time would
come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire would be converted into
bread. It is to be regretted that the proprietors of these
numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and form a good
Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it may be
attended with great expence in the execution, would
eventually be productive of considerable advantage to the
adventurers.—And as we are upon this subject, we cannot
help lamenting another circumstance which proves a considerable
diminution of the benefits arising from these sources of support
and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so many
accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the
falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and
breaking of ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and
maimed, and others lose their sight, and thus become chargable to
different Parishes. It would be desirable therefore, to
have a Fund for the relief of these poor sufferers; and for this
purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might easily establish
a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should contribute
liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that a
small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the
wages of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated,
either by casualties or illness, from following their usual
occupation; and also for the purpose of procuring medical
advice.
Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road
to Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged
Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £7 17s.
6d. and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint (says Mr. W. Owen Pughe)
whose history is not known; he is supposed to have been buried
here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s
foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended
to be shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are
some Copper Mines, where some few workmen are employed, but the
Vein is small, and the quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though
of a good quality, has been very inconsiderable.
The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be
induced, no doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road,
to call at Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small
Lake, known by the name of Llyn y Dywarchen, is the
celebrated Floating Island, mentioned by Giraldus, and which he
denominates insula erratica; what is dignified with the
name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of the Turbery
ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn off,
and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such
Plants as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be
found the Nymphœa lutea & alba, or yellow and white
Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants) which are not uncommon in
most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon. If the
Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will
here have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from
whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till within a quarter of a
mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing down Copper
Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two summits of
Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in
the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more
particularly describe) are considered the two easiest and safest
ascents; and along either of which, any person, who is a
tolerable horseman, may ride a Welsh Pony, as far as the spot
above mentioned.
We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis,
which on account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake,
in a narrow Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth
his attention. The distance from Carnarvon is about ten
miles; the first five of which, so far as a place called Cwm y
Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly injured by the Slate
Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a Boat may be
engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from
Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having
proceeded along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a
handsome Arch, built in 1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a
stone in the Battlement, and where he is underservedly
denominated the modern Inigo: afterwards we turn to
the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from
the road, is Llanrug, [108] a small Church,
dedicated to St. Michael, and formerly called Llanfihangel yn
Rûg. Some years ago, the following little Sonnet was
written on beholding this small structure, after a few weeks
absence:
Oft as yon Fane presents its
simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is Love!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well
done.”
The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and
two in breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158,
and of Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued
in the King’s Books at £5 12s.
6d. When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to
the left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before
mentioned, consisting of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic
situation, greatly and deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour,
for Boats employed in fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper
Ore.—On the top of the Hill, before we descend to this
place, there is a circular Rock on the left, strongly fortified,
which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas Dinlle, Dinas
Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which being
at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any
signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between
the two Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence
of an enemy’s approach, was conveyed to the upper end of
the Vale, and so on to Capel Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c.
From this Rock there is a most grand and magnificent view, which
on account of its opening suddenly and unexpectedly, has the
effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in proud
pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills
with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as
Erlidir, Garn, and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale)
Crib Goch, and Carnedd Higgon, on the right, appear to rival
their Majestic Lord. This grand scenery,—this
wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears again to
great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the
River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short
account of a very extra ordinary personage, (Margaret
ferch Evan,) who lived near this place, and denominated by
Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He observes further, that
when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786, she was about
ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last specimen of
the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the
correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a
Female, (Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile
above the Church of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr.
P’s Heroine, either in strength or agility: the following
anecdote related by herself, may be mentioned as an instance of
her uncommon courage; some years age, as she was one day watching
her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she perceived a
Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter in,
and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine
hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered
that the Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several
other articles of wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him,
and having taken in her hand the post of a small gate or wicket,
and taking a shorter path, she overtook him near Gorphwysfa,
almost at the upper end of the pass, (a most lonely situation)
and having laid hold of him with one hand, she shook him well, in
order to convince him of her strength, and then struck him with
the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the
same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and
steal my property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding,
Let me see what thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the
contents, she took up her own property, and after giving him one
or two more hard strokes, she charged him at his peril, never to
enter that Vale again, otherwise he would not be suffered to
depart without a much severer chastisement. The following
is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones, the
Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago,
was superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at
the upper end of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of
the Spectators, Mr. J. went behind her unperceived, and laying
hold of her, jocularly said, “now Catherine, suppose I push
you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got behind
him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold
of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at
arm’s length, Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you
in? This extraordinary woman, who is of a very masculine
appearance, and has a pretty long black beard, lives in a lonely
Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow
Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance
is so
unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed
and respected in her neighbourhood. After this long
digression, we hasten to relate the numerous qualifications, and
uncommon exploits of her rival Amazon, the before mentioned
Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall sum up in Mr.
Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter,
shooter, and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of
Dogs, Terriers, Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their
kinds.—She killed more Foxes in one year, than all the
confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed stoutly, and was Queen
of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all our old
music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a
good Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of
seventy, was the best wrestler in the country, few young men
daring to try a fall with her.—Some years ago, she had a
Maid of congenial qualities, but Death, “that mighty
hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s;
Margaret was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker
of Harps:—she could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make
her own Shoes, and build her own Boats, while she was under
contract to convey the Copper ore down the Lakes. We must
not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid their addresses
to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved
Margaret, in pure British verse; at length she gave
her hand to the most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a
harper) as if predetermined to maintain the superiority which
nature had bestowed on her.
About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower
end of the Lake) are the remains of Llys Dinorddwig, a
house said to have been one of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap
Gruffydd; the walls high and strong, the hall twenty-four yards
long, and before the house is a deep ditch, over which had
probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a
spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where
according to ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn,
to give notice to the Household of the approach of their Master,
or to summon the Vassals to assemble on all emergent
occasions. Near this place was discovered, about twenty
years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in breadth,
and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP Q
TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed
either near the New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s
Cottage, or they may proceed to the extremity of the upper Pool,
and walk from thence to the Village, which is about a quarter of
a mile distant, and procure refreshment at Robert Closs’s,
who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House, as well
as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both
very civil and obliging men, and will either act as Guides
themselves, or will procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up
Snowdon, or to any of the neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also
be obtained at both these Houses: and though the accommodations
may not be equal to what we generally meet with in large Towns,
and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the Mineralogist, the
Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an admirer
of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will
contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded
spot. One Day may be well employed in examining Mr.
Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and
observing the men while at work, many of whom descend fifteen or
twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes, (one about their
middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge, over a
dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours,
in boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main
Rock, and ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll
Du, a stupendous roche fendue, or split Rock, near Llyn y
Cwn, about three miles North of the Village, and mentioned by Mr.
Pennant, might be recommended, as a very rational and pleasing
amusement for the second Day: this might also include a walk over
Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks on Glydair
Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it
about 25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is
covered with groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all
directions, and in some places piled one upon the other.
From the two Glydairs’ may be seen several Lakes, such as
Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and also the Great
Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig. From
this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain
called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more
insulated, and more completely detached from all the surrounding
Hills and Rocks, than perhaps any other in the Principality, and
it is so steep on every side, that it is considered, even by the
Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour, agility, and courage, to
ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and there being two
columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and nearly
4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice,
and the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a
proof of noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and
step from one to the other; these stones, at a particular part of
the Road from Ogwen Pool to Capel Curig, have the appearance of
two men, and it is jocularly related by the Peasants, that a
Gentleman once stood a considerable time expecting them either to
move or come down. The Mountains in this part of
Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous
height, mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed
Rock; I have, from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds
skipping from peak to peak, but the point of contact was so
small, that from this distance, they seemed to my uplifted eyes,
like beings of another Order, floating in the Air. And
lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days more, in a
most pleasing and agreeable manner.
There are three different Routs by which Strangers are
generally conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and
most usual, is that commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn
Castle, near the Bridge, and following the course of the River
for about a quarter of a mile, and passing very near the
Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the left, and
pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of the
ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm
Brwynog, as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the
upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or
North) and winding up the side of the slope or ridge, cross over
till we are in view of the Llanberis pass, above the
Church. During the first part of our progress, the view was
confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive,
particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the
Island of Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of
Denbighshire may be seen, between the mountains. We now
begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the formidable slope above Llyn
du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and Clogwyn du’r
Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black, but
now green Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after
this last ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the
rise very gradual, for upwards of half a mile, till we join the
Bettws, or Quellyn Copper Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before
mentioned; from thence to the peak the distance is something more
than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent easy. There was a
circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not much more
than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors from
the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected
a sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from
different Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he
made use of the Stones for that purpose; but the miserable
building which he erected, and which is nothing more than a heap
of stones piled together in the form of a small Stack of Corn,
could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty Shillings, and
is on the east side, about ten yards below the apex; but
at
present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it
is usual for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the
ruins of this small Building.—Small stones are frequently
found near this spot, bearing the impression of different
Shells. From this elevated situation may be seen, in clear
weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man, and the
Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North
East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time
for such a view are the months of June and July, when it will be
necessary to be on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and
fogs generally collect soon after.—It would not however, be
advisable for persons of a tender habit, or delicate
constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking,
particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely
asserted, that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have
occasion to regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy
weather; particularly if the Sun should occasionally appear, as
in this aerial region the scenery and the views are perpetually
shifting and changing; and many have been known to prefer, a
partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day, (though tolerably
clear) for such an excursion. We shall here beg leave to
introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady,
in which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting
description of the pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in
such weather as that above described: “My dear
Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate in not
finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially
as I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood.
Perhaps you may recollect telling me, with what (I must confess)
I then thought a prejudiced affection for your native
scenery; ‘that no season or weather, could deprive Snowdon
of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’ The truth
of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive
days, on which I ascended its lofty summit. The accounts of
those two days, and the light in which my English feelings
regarded your Country scenes, will, I trust, not be
uninteresting. The morning destined for our first attempt,
was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which portend a
sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected
Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and
Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the
high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of
this King of Hills, and never were expectations more fully
answered. The variety, the constant succession of
magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to our view, are
absolutely indiscribable. You may conceive a group,
(for we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial
beings, standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds;
for the glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads,
while our feet were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself
the Sea, when agitated by a storm, suddenly arrested by an
intense Frost, for such was, absolutely, the appearance, the
congregated mists and clouds, represented to our astonished and
enraptured eyes. In the course of about ten minutes, or a
quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to
break up and separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced
guards, and columns in different directions. The commotion,
at the first breaking up, and the regular movements afterwards,
were grand and magnificent beyond description. After these
advanced guards (which were generally fleecy, transparent clouds,
with fringes and festoons hanging in different fantastic shapes,
and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints upon their
edges) came the main Army. Presently through the mist,
several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense
projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries,
stretching out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed
the appearance of small conical Islands, in this resplendent
abyss. In a short time, these advancing Armies regularly
encamped, or bovouack’d for the night, in the
different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all, for
as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were
quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly
beheld huge gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense
abyss. This was about fire in the evening, for with a
reluctance similar to that of our great progenitors, in leaving
Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours. We stopped
and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the
reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or
weaver’s beam;—we began to brandish these weapons,
and to our great amusement and astonishment, our lengthened bulky
shadows gently imitated our different movements. At length
we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime scenes, and
arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn of
Llanberris. Having been so much delighted the first, I was
easily induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party
of friends, who were going up the following day;—about half
way, we had a fine distant view of Anglesey, with the indentures
formed in its coast by the Sea; a thick mist overtook us, and
shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We reached the summit
completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually opening, the
Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the clouds
soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of
an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the
faintly marked outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening
presented the romantic region of Capel Curig, which with the
variety of Lakes that appeared on every side, with the Sun
shining upon many of them, afforded a most enchanting coup de
œil.—At this moment the attention of the party
was most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows
reflected upon the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day
before, as it was earlier in the afternoon) and encircled by
three Rainbows of the most vivid and distinct colours.—The
effect was beyond description. It was then that the thought
of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the
mind. What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who
with one word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at
whose nod, they shall crumble into dust!
These are thy glorious works! Parent of
good,
Almighty; thine this universal frame,
Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”
Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle
either of Wine, or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near
the side of the Quellyn Copper path, about two hundred yards
below Bwlch Glas gap, where the Copper Ore Bin is situated.
Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and
it is sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears
to have been the general appellation in former days, of the
whole range of mountains from Conway to Clynog: Two different
derivations are generally given of the word Eryri, one is Eryr,
an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow; which is the most
correct we will not pretend to determine, but it appears that the
person who originally translated the word, considered the latter
to be the genuine etymology. The distance from Dolbadern
Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary
flat in Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and
two from thence to the top. There are two other routs from
the Village, which ought not to be attempted except by active
young men; one up the steep declivity just above the Church, and
the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr, near the Old
Bridge, (Bont Vawr). The height of Snowdon, above
High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.
Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is
a small Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the
King’s Books at £4 18s. 9d.
Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St.
Peris. The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in
1811, was 86; and the resident Population 438. Peris, to
whom the Church is dedicated, is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd
y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from Rome, who together with
Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of congenial habits and
disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world to this
secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom
and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement
and devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still
called Nant Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in
Leland’s time by the name of Nant Padarn; as the properest
situation for the erection of their respective
cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now
living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the
lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going
from the Inn to the old Castle. Cadvan, another religious
devotee, came from Armorica into Wales about the same time, and
became Abbot of Bardsey. The upper Lake is about a mile in
length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be twenty Fathoms deep
particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the lower
Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and
upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and
Char; Salmon are also frequently taken in them. Not far
from the Church is the Saint’s Well, where a large Trout
has for ages been exhibited to Strangers; his appearance is
considered a fortunate omen, and his non-appearance the contrary;
the present fish is about 20 or 30 years old; the wonderful Pass, and
two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the Church, are well
worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the
beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to
strangers, by the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to
Capel Curig. An Old Woman, many years ago, is said to have
made use of the hollow, under one of the before mentioned
Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy, during the
Summer months. The distance from the Village to Capel
Curig, is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant,
11 or 12. The upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva,
or the Resting Place. There are three other Lakes in the
Parish, besides those already mentioned, viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch,
in which there are very fine flavored trout, and on which a small
boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones, the
Innkeeper. This pool is the source of the river Hwch,
flowing near the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn
Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E. of the village; in the former are some
aquatic plants, particularly the Lobellia
Dortmanna—Subularia
Aquatica—Isoetes
Lacustris; and Twll Du, below it, is the habitat of
numerous and rare plants: a great variety may also be discovered
on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage, between
the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the
upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the
tremendous precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the
North. The old Copper Mines, (Shafts, Levels, &c.) near
the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a visit, particularly
from every Mineralogist and Geologist. At some distance
below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm
Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a
Rock, called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which,
according to the popular superstition, if a person sleep a night,
he will awake either a Poet or a Madman. The Gimlet Rock,
near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St. Tudwal,) Islands,—the
Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and Bardsey
Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as
well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire,
and Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire.
The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time
have been considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers,
Walls, and Buildings are still visible.—It is supposed to
have been erected about the beginning of the eleventh Century, or
perhaps earlier, by one of the Welsh Princes, [126] for the defence of this strong
Pass, and to be used occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat;
for it is mentioned in the Welsh Histories, or Chronicles,
considerably earlier than Edward the 1st. and there are some
Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen Goch
(Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by
his Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the
British line, which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23
years: The following is a part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by
Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement
of that Prince:
Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon,
Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion,
Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion,
Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c.
“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release
from captivity, the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with
the ruddy Cheeks, and his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged
with the blood of his enemies; the defender of all those who come
to seek his protection;—he never dismissed the injured
suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the
oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts.
The Earth appears desolate, since he has been in
confinement,—the hopes of his dependants are fled, and
grief and disappointment will convey his friends and adherents to
the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising,
successful, conquering General! He disdained to hoard up
useless treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his
Countrymen,” &c. See the remainder in the
Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned.
Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus:
Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi,
Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri,
Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw
Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c.
The following attempt at a versification of the commencement,
though, very far inferior to the original, may, nevertheless,
give the English reader some idea of the strength and spirit of
the composition:
In yonder Tower my darling Owen groans,
Oppress’d with grief, I hear his piteous moans;
Ah wretched Prince! within those walls confin’d,
A Brother’s victim—thus to death consign’d;
What mournful sounds, were to my ears convey’d,
As late dejected, o’er these rocks I stray’d;
Brave Owen’s name shall dwell upon my tongue
His matchless deeds, shall by the muse be sung
From ancient Princes, we his Lineage trace,
And valiant Chiefs, adorn his noble race;
No more his gates receive the crouded throng,
His guests no longer hear the minstrel’s song:
In war distinguish’d by his broken shield,
Like valiant Rodri, [128a] he
disdain’d to yield:
Shame that a Prince, should thus in bondage pine,
Whose acts, if free, would Rhun’s [128b] fam’d deeds outshine
These lands ne’er saw the Saxon’s fire and sword,
Till he knew durance vile from Snowdon’s Lord, &c.
The reader is referred for the remainder to the publication
before mentioned.
Bishop Godfrey Goodman, purchased a Farm (Ty Du) in this
Parish, where he resided during the greatest part of the
usurpation of Oliver Cromwell. He was a native of
Ruthin, and left that Farm and Coed Mawr, towards the maintenance
of the poor of his native parish. He died Bishop of
Gloucester, and made a most singular Will, printed in
York’s five Royal Tribes. About 37 years ago, a
remarkably strong man, (Foulk Jones) lived at Ty Du; many
wonderful things are related of him, such as his carrying the
largest end of a piece of timber, while it required three men to
support the other;—his holding a bull, with one hand, by
the horns;—carrying a yearling heifer, that was unwell,
home from the field;—throwing a Denbighshire Champion, who
had heard of his strength, and was come over, either to fight or
wrestle with him, over a wall from a field into the road; and he
is said to have lifted a strong man, who insulted him, at
Carnarvon, over the battlements of the Bridge, and to have held
him over the water, until he had submitted to make an apology,
for having so attacked him without any provocation. Many
persons now living recollect this man; he was a person of sober,
peaceable habits, and much beloved and respected by all his
neighbours.
The Rev. Evan Evans, alias Prydydd Hir, Author of Dissertatio
de Bardis, Specimens of Ancient British or Welsh Poetry; The Love
of our Country, 2 Vols. of Welsh Sermons, 8vo. &c. was Curate
of Llanberis in the year 1771. He was then
employed in collecting and transcribing Welsh MSS. and had access
to the libraries of most of the gentlemen of North Wales,
particularly to the valuable collections of Sir W. W. Wynne,
Bart. (the present gentleman’s father, and from whom he
received a Pension of £20. per Annum, which was afterwards
withdrawn), those of Hengwrt, near Dolgelley, Gloddaith, near
Conway, and Plas Gwynn, P. Panton’s, Esq. Anglesey.
Mr. Evans born at Gynhawdref, near Aberystwith, in Cardiganshire,
was educated at the Grammar School of Ystrad Meirig, in the same
County, under the celebrated Mr. Richards, many years master of
that School. He shewed an early attachment to the Welsh
Muse, and was soon noticed by Mr. Lewis Morris, the famous
Antiquary and Bard, who conceived a very favorable opinion of his
abilities, from some of his juvenile compositions, in his native
language.—Mr. Evans was of Merton College, Oxford; he is
said to have died in great distress and poverty, at the place of
his nativity, August, 1789, in the 58th year of his age.
The inhabitants of Llanberis still shew a pool in the river where
he used to bathe. The late Rev. B. Williams, of Vron, near
Bala, Mr. Pennant’s companion in his Welsh Tour, composed
the following lines to his memory, which may not be unacceptable
to our readers, particularly at the present period, when the love
of Welsh Literature seems to be reviving:
On Snowdon’s haughty brow I
stood,
And view’d, afar, old Mona’s flood;—
Carnarvon Castle, Eagle-crown’d,
And all the glorious prospect round.
But soon each gay idea fled,
For Snowdon’s favorite Bard is dead;—
Poor Bard, accept a genuine tear,
And read thy true eulogium here;
Here, in my heart, that rues the day,
That stole Eryri’s pride away:
But lo! where seen, by fancy’s eye,
His visionary form glides by,
Pale, ghastly pale,—that hollow cheek,—
That frantic look does more than speak,
And tells a tale so full of woe,
My bosom swells, my eyes o’erflow:—
To want and to despair a prey,
He pin’d, and sigh’d his soul away!
Ungrateful countrymen, your pride,
Your glory, wanted bread and died!
Whilst Ignorance and Vice are fed,
Shall Wit and Genius droop their head?
Shall fawning Sycophants be paid
For flattering fools? while thou art laid
On thy sick bed, the mountain [131] heath,
Waiting the slow approach of Death,
Beneath inhospitable skies,
Without a friend to close thine eyes?
Thus, shall the chief of Bards expire?
The Master of the British Lyre!
And shall thy hapless reliques rot,
Unwept, unhallowed, and forgot?
No, while one grateful Muse remains,
And Pity dwells on Cambria’s plains,
Thy mournful story shall be told,
And wept till Time itself grows old.
R. WILLIAMS, of Vron, near
Bala.—1799.
About the year 1805, John Closs, son of Robert Closs, the
Innkeeper at Llanberis, a little boy about seven years of age,
was persuaded to go and reside with his grandmother, at Caeau
gwynion, in Nant y Bettws, not far from Quellyn Pool, and his
mother having come to see him, the love of home revived in his
memory, and the thoughts of seeing his brothers and sisters
became so powerful, that he resolved to follow his mother to
Llanberis, unknown both to her and his grandmother; he therefore
pursued her up the mountain at some distance: it was in the
winter time, late in the evening, and it began to snow, he lost
his way, and after wandering some time, he perished on the
mountain. His mother, (though she once fancied she heard a
child crying) thought he was at his grandmother’s, and the
did woman concluded he was gone home with his mother, thus both
being deceived, it was some time before it was known that he had
followed his mother on that fatal evening; after two or three
days painful search, (numbers of the neighbours having collected
together) his body was found at the verge of a precipice, near
the top of Moel Aelia. The following lines were composed on
that melancholy occasion:
A luckless lad, one winter’s day,
Unknown to Granny, ran away,
Nor longer at her house would stay
Without his mother.
Unknowing that her child pursu’d,
The gathering storm, unmov’d, she view’d,
The thoughts of home her strength renew’d;—
Alas poor mother!
With feebler steps, and fainter cry,
Alarm’d, he sees the dark’ning sky,
Yet still he hop’d that she was nigh,
And sobb’d my mother.
Dark was the night, the snow descends,
Near Aelia’s top his life he ends,
As home his weary way he beads,
Nor longer cries my mother!
Some of our readers may probably be pleased and amused with
the following extracts from Leland, respecting Llanberis and its
neighbourhood:
“Linne Dolbaterne, 2 miles in length, and a
diminutive mile in breadth; Vallis Monachus, alias Nant Manach,
or Peris, is the upper Valley, in which is Linne Peris, a mile in
length, and a dim half in breadth.—Segent (Seiont) cometh
first through Llynn Peris, and a bow shot off, runneth into Llyn
Padarn; there is but a meadow and bridge between these two
pools.—In these two pooles be redde belly fishes, called
thorr gough (Tor goch) id est, thori aut pectoris rubri.
There be also some of these in Linne Tarddynni, (Cawellyn) and in
Linne Bala deulynn, (Llanllyfni Lakes); they be taken in these
three pooles in order, and taken in one and not seen in the
other; Linne Doythock nothing so big as Linne Peris: these three,
Linne Peris, Linne Padarn, and Linne Doythock, are all in the
Parish of Llanberis, and the lowest Lake is five miles E.S.E.
from Carnarvon, and lie in vallies, W.N.W. from Llanberis.
Bala Deulynn is in Hugh Gurvai (Uwch Gorfai) Hundred, and six
miles (nine miles) beyond Carnarvon; the others, viz. Linne
Peris, Linne Dolpaterne, Linne Doythock, and Linne Tarddynni, are
in the Commot of Is Gorvai, (infra Gwyrvai) and all the
great Withaw Hill [133] is wholly in this
Commot; this hill is all in the Parish of Peris, and is a radicibus five miles to the top.
Dolbaterne Castle, on a rock, betwixt two Linnes; there is yet a
piece of a Tower, where Owen Gough (Goch) brother to Llywelyn,
last Prince, was in prison; it is in Is Gwrfai Commot.
Dolbadarn a five miles from Carnarvon, by E.S.E. hard by Linne
Peris; Segent (Seiont) as I heard say riseth at Linne
Dolbaterne. This Pool is three miles in length, and in some
places a mile broad, and in diverse places less and less; it
lieth by Withaw Hill, (Snowdon) and is distant 5 miles from
Carnarvon, towards S.E.—The best Wood of Carnarvonshire is
by Glynn Cledair, in the Parish of Dolwyddelen, and by Glynn
Lligwy, and by Capel Curig, and at Llanperis,—all
Creigiau’r Ryri is Forest. Metely good wood about
Conway Abbey, and Penmachno, and about Coetmore, and Coet Park,
by Bangor, and other places; in Lleyn and Eivionydd is little
wood. Carnarvonshire, about the shore, hath reasonable good
corn, about a mile upward from the shore unto
Carnarvon,—then more upward be Eryri Hills, and in them is
very little corn, except oats in some places, and a little
barley, but scantly rye, if there were the Deer would destroy it;
but in Lleyn and Eifionydd is good corn, both by shore, and
almost through upland. Syr Gul. Griffith hath a fayr House
at Penrynn, two miles on this side Bangor; William vab William,
dwelleth at a place called Gochwillan, a mile on
this side Penryn; William Coetmore, dwelleth at Coetmore, by Tal
Lynn Ogwen; Pillsdon, in Caerarvon Town; John vab Madock vab
Poel, dwelleth in Lleen, at Bodvel; John Wynne, vab Meredith,
dwelleth at Gweder, a two bow shots above Llanrwst, on the Ripe
(Bank) of the Conwy River; Elis vab Morris, at Clennenna, in
Penmorva Parish, in Comot Hinioneth (Eifionydd).”
Should the stranger not be disposed to accompany us in our
Tour round the Promontory of Lleyn, and to the Island of Bardsey,
(which, by the bye, we hope to render both interesting and
amusing), he may proceed from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, and from
thence, along the sea coast, to Barmouth, by Tremadoc and
Harlech; or, from Pont Aberglaslyn to Tan y Bwlch, Meantwrog,
Trawsfynydd, and so by Dol y Melynllyn, and the Cain and Mawddach
Waterfalls to Dolgelley. The distance from Carnarvon to
Bethgelert is about 12 miles: we proceed up the Hill, by
Llanbeblig, (the Parish Church) then over Pont Peblig Bridge,
about half a mile beyond which, on the left, is Glangwnna, the
beautiful and much-admired seat of Thomas Lloyd, Esq. standing on
a fine eminence, between two rivers, at the western extremity of
the Parish of Llanrug; this place, in point of situation,
possesses many natural advantages, and all the improvements
exhibit evident tokens of a judicious mind, and
cultivated taste, as it contains, within its own limits, all the
requisites to form a fine landscape, and has on one side an
extensive sea prospect, on the other, a range of majestic
mountains; upon the whole, this is generally considered as one of
the sweetest and loveliest Villas in this part of the
Principality. On the right, about the same distance from
the road, is Penrhôs, a large, handsome house, lately built
by the proprietor, H. R. Williams, Esq.; it commands a fine view
of the Castle, the Menai, Carnarvon Bay, and the surrounding
Scenery. About three miles farther, we approach the
beautiful little vale of Bettws Garmon, watered by the river
Gwyrfai, the source of which is at the foot of Snowdon, and after
running through Quellyn Lake, and under Pont Newydd Bridge, it
empties itself into the Menai, at Abermenai. On the right,
Mynydd-mawr forms a striking feature, its top is smooth, but its
front is formed into an immense precipice, retiring inwards in a
semicircular shape. Moel Aelia, on the left, is another
mountain of a stupendous bulk, most regularly rounded, and of a
beautiful verdure; this pass was defended, on one side, by
Castell Cidwm, a great rock at the foot of Mynydd mawr, formerly
fortified, and on the other by a small Fort, the remains of which
are still visible, near Treflan Bettws is a perpetual Curacy; the
Church is very small, and is dedicated to St. Germanus, and the
Parish consists only of six or seven tenements; the corn tithe
belongs to the family of Glyn Llifon; it is in the patronage of
the Bishop. About half a mile beyond Bettws, near a small
mill, Melin Cerrig y Rhyd, commonly called Nant Mill, is a most
beautiful cascade, and a small Arch, without any Battlements,
forming a very singular appearance, of which there is a view, in
Mr. Pennant’s Tour, representing a person on horseback,
going home over this little Bridge, with a load from the
mill. On the left is Nant Hall, one of the seats of Sir R.
Williams, Bart. Member for this County.—The present lord
Viscount Bulkeley is a descendant (by the mother’s side) of
the Rowland’s of this house.—Soon after passing Nant,
the Vale expands with a magnificent view of Snowdon—travel
along the side of Llyn Cawellyn, pass the Snowdon guide’s
house, and proceed to the junction of the Drws y Coed road, near
a small Bridge, about a quarter of a mile beyond Quellyn Lake,
and soon after arrive in view of Llynn Cader, a small round pool
on the right, respecting which the Welsh people relate a
ridiculous tale, that a gentleman’s hounds, in former days,
started, on a rock near this Lake, a strange kind of an animal
(Aur Frychyn) with tufts of hair shining like gold, nearly
approaching, according to their representation, to a species of
Buffalo, and that he was pursued for some time and killed, near a
place
called Nant y lle, and that he bellowed so loud when taken that
the rocks rent. After travelling about two miles, we begin
to descend towards Bethgelert, and observe, on the right, Moel
Hebog, a lofty conical Hill, which Lord Lyttleton ascended from
Brynkir, when he made the Tour of North Wales. Bethgelert
is a neat little village, in a romantic situation, between high
mountains; here is a good Inn, surrounded with thriving
plantations, built about eighteen years ago, by Thomas Jones,
Esq. of Bryn Tirion, before mentioned. The Church is small,
and has been Conventual, belonging to a Priory of
Augustines, and dedicated to St. Mary. There is
reason to suppose, says Mr. Pennant, they might have been of that
class which was called Gilbertines, and consisted of both men and
women, who lived under the same roof, but strictly separated from
each other by a wall; the cause of his suspicion is a meadow,
near the Church, called Dol y Lleian, the Nun’s
meadow. Bethgelert is supposed to be the most ancient
foundation in the Country, except Bardsey. Tanner ascribes
it to our last Prince, but it must have been long before his
days, there being a recital of a Charter, for certain Lands
bestowed on it, by Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in
1194. It was favored, in the same manner, by other
succeeding Princes; David ap Llewelyn bestowed on it some Lands
in Pennant Gwernogan, belonging to Tudor ap Madoc, to
which the Prince had no right; this occasioned a suit between the
sons of Tudor and Philipp, Prior of the House, before William de
Grandison, and R. de Stanedon, at Caernarvon, when a verdict was
given against the Convent. The Prior had for his support
the Grange of Llecheiddior, in Eifionydd, and part of a mill; the
Grange of Fentidillt, and Village of Gwehelyn; the Grange of
Tre’r Beirdd in Anglesey, one Plough Land, and a certain
share of the bees. The esteem which these insects were held
in by the Ancient Britons, on account of their producing the
nectareous Mead, was so great, that they considered them as
created in Paradise, that when they quitted it on the fall of
man, they were blessed by God himself, and therefore no Mass
ought to be celebrated but by the light of their wax, as we read
in the laws of Howel Dda. The Prior had, besides, an
allowance of fifty cows and twenty-two sheep; the expences of the
house must have been considerable, for it was on the great road
from England and South Wales to North Wales, and from Ireland to
England. In order to enable this place to keep up its usual
hospitality, after it had suffered in 1283, by a casual fire,
Edward 1st most munificently repaired all the damages; and Bishop
Anian, about the year 1286, for the encouragement of other
benefactors, remitted to all such who truly repented of their sins, forty
days of any penance inflicted on them. In 1535 it was
bestowed by Henry VIII. on the Abbey of Chertsey, in Surrey, and
in 1537, it was given, with the last, as an Appurtenance to that
of Bisham, in Berkshire. On the dissolution, the King gave
to the family of the Bodvels, all the Lands in
Carnarvonshire, which belonged to this Priory, and all those in
Anglesey, to that of the Prydderchs, excepting the Township of
Tre’r Beirdd. The Revenues of Bethgelert were valued,
by Dugdale, at Seventy Pounds, Three Shillings and Eight-pence;
by Speed, at Sixty-nine Pounds, Three Shillings, and
Eight-pence. Edward Conway is mentioned as last
Prior. There are no remains at present of the
Convent.—Mr. Pennant had in his possession a drawing of the
Seal of the Priory, dated 1531; on it was the figure of the
Virgin and child, but no part of the Legend except
BETHKELE. Lewis Daron, a Bard of the 15th Century, in a
Poem, (the purport of which is to solicit David the Prior to
bestow a fine bay horse, then in his possession, on John Wynne,
of Gwydir, Esq.) extols him on account of his great learning and
liberality.—Hence we are led to suppose that this Monk was
very opulent, and a popular character in his time. The
ground on the South side of the Church, seems to have been the
spot, says Mr. Williams, late of Llandegai, in his
“Observations on the Snowdon Mountain,” whereon stood
the
buildings which the Monks formerly inhabited, and we may discover
two or three arched doors, now closed up on that side of the
Church, through which these religious persons probably entered,
when they went to their devotions; there is likewise an ancient
Mansion House, near the Church, which probably was the habitation
of the Prior. In this house was shewn, some years ago, an
old pewter mug, which will contain two quarts, or more, and was
called the Bethgelert Pint, and any person who could grasp it in
one hand, and drink up the contents, (which was ale) at one
draught, was entitled to the liquor, gratis, and the
tenant was to charge the value of it to the Lord of the Manor, as
part payment of his rent. At Bethgelert lie buried two
eminent Bards, Rhys Goch Eryri, and Dafydd Nanmor; the former
died about the year 1420, and it may be inferred, from his
writings (many of which are still extant) that he lived to the
great age of 120. He was a man of property, and lived at
Hafod Garegog, situated beyond Pont Aberglaslyn, on the road to
Tan y Bwlch, and consequently in the County of Merioneth, though
within the limits of this Parish. The latter resided at
Nanmor, which is also a district of this Parish, on the same side
of the river. He died about A.D. 1460, and appears to have
been a person of some consequence; they were both learned men,
(considering the age they lived in) as their compositions
abundantly testify.
To
the N.E. of the village, is the entrance into the beautiful
little Vale of Nant Gwynant, which, though narrow at first,
expands and unfolds its beauties, as the traveller advances; this
valley may be considered, however, as consisting of two portions
or divisions, separated by a narrow defile; at the upper end of
the lower vale is Llynn Dinas Emrys, and just above it,
commanding a delightful view of that Lake, the River, the Woods,
Mountains, &c. and particularly of Snowdon, is Plâs
Gwynant, the romantic Summer residence of D. Vaudrey, Esq.
Just below this small Lake, and nearly in the centre of the Vale,
appears the famous Dinas Emrys, which is a huge insulated rock,
clothed with wood, and precipitous on three sides; on the summit
is a large area, but no remains of a Castle. On the
accessible side are three ramparts of stone, within which is the
ruin of a small stone building, about ten yards long, the walls
without any mortar. This place is from early times
celebrated in British story, for here
Prophetic Merlin sat, when to the British King,
The changes long to come, auspiciously he told.
The legend is thus told: when Vortigern found himself unable
to contend with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had, in the year
449, invited into Britain, he determined, by the advice of his
Magicians, on building an impregnable fortress in Snowdon.
He collected the materials, which all disappeared in one
night.—The Prince, astonished at this, convened again his
wise men, who assured him his building would never stand, unless
it was sprinkled with the blood of a child, born without the help
of a father; the Realm was ransacked,—at length, one of his
emissaries overheard some boys at play reproach another, and call
him an unbegotten knave. The child and his mother were
brought before the King,—she confessed he was the offspring
of an Incubus. The boy, whose name was Merlin, was ordered
to be sacrificed, but on confounding all the Magicians, with his
questions, and explaining the cause of the miscarriage, got his
liberty, and
To that mighty King, who rashly
undertook
A strong wall’d Tower to rear, those earthly spirits that
shook
The great foundation still, in Dragon’s horrid shape
That dreaming wizzard told, making the mountain gape
With his most powerful charms, to view those caverns deep
And from the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep,
Where Dinas Emrys stood, shewed where the serpent fought,
The white that tore the red, from whence the Prophet wrought
The Britons sad decay, then shortly to ensue.
The above is Drayton’s translation of the legend, in his
Polyolbion. Merlin, or Merddin Emrys, or Ambrosius, was in
fact the son of a noble Roman of the same name; his mother, a
vestal, to save her life and honor, invented the fable of his
father, which was swallowed by the credulity of the times.
Merlin, or Myrddin, was an able Mathematician and Astronomer, and
deeply read in all the learning of his age. The vulgar, as
usual, ascribed all he did to the art of magic, and his
discovery, that Vortigern had begun to found his Castle on a
Morass, was immediately said to have been attended with most
portentous circumstances; numbers of Prophecies were attributed
to him, the repetition of which is said to have been forbidden,
by the Council of Trent; however, since it is certain that
Vortigern, after his misfortunes, retired to the Snowdon Hills,
and died not very remote from them, it is possible he might have
selected this for his strong hold, as it is admirably adapted for
that purpose, and nearly fills the streight of the valley, and
Merlin Ambrosius might have given to it the name of Emris.
A place close by, styled Cell y Dewiniaid, or the Cell of the
Diviners, allusive to the Magicians of Vortigern’s Court,
is another circumstance which favors the history of this
celebrated supposed Prophet, and not at a great distance, are
some large stones, which are called Beddau’r Dewiniaid, the
Tombs of the Magicians. There is a tradition also, that
within this rock there is a Cave, the mouth of which is now shut
up, where Merddin concealed some valuable articles, particularly
a golden chair, lest they should fall into the enemy’s
hands. The upper Lake is called Llyn Gwynant,—the
distance between the two is something more than a mile, and near
the road are some beautiful thriving plantations, belonging to
the Rev. H. Wynne Jones, and Mr. Vaudrey, before mentioned.
On the South side of the Upper Lake, are the ruins of a small
Chapel, called Capel Nan’hwynen, and it would be a
great convenience to the inhabitants if it were re-built, as the
distance from hence to Bethgelert is between three and four
miles. There is a tradition that Madog, the son of
Prince Owen Gwynedd, resided near this spot, for some time before
he left his Country, and set sail for America, and that he
frequented this small Chapel, of which he is supposed to have
been the founder. Mr. Pennant pronounces this to be the
most beautiful Vale in Snowdonia, being guarded on each
side by vast Mountains, such as Crib Ddu, or part of Mynydd
Nanmor; the Aran, on the West, Lliwedd to the North; Dduallt and
Wenallt, being about five miles in extent, from its upper
extremity to the Village of Bethgelert,—and varied with
woods, lakes, rivers, meadows, waterfalls, and rocks of the most
fantastic and picturesque appearance. The distance from
Bethgelert to Capel Curig is twelve miles, the latter part of
which is over an uninteresting mountain moor, or flat; it
improves a little, however, within a few miles of the last
mentioned place, when we arrive in view of the two Lakes, called
Llyniau Mymbir. From Capel Curig to Bettws y Coed, or
Bettws wyrion Iddon, is five miles, along the new Irish
Road. About half way between these two places is the
celebrated Cataract, Rhaiadr y wennol, where the River Llugwy
falls, with a tremendous roar, over some steep lofty rocks, into a
deep black chasm, concealed by large oak, and dark overhanging
woods. Considerable remains of a large Roman building were
discovered, some years ago, near this spot, on the Estate of the
Duke of Ancaster, at a place called Bryn y Gefeiliau.
“I distinctly traced,” says Mr. Lysons, “the
walls of one room, the dimensions of which were 60 feet by
20.” This neighbourhood is supposed to have been much
frequented by the Romans, on account of its Slate Quarries, and
valuable Lead and Copper Mines, and it is conjectured that the
Roman Road, from Pen y stryt, and Tommen y Mur, in the Parish of
Trawsfynydd, passed this way to Conovium, (Caer Rhun), as
it has been distinctly traced by the Church of Dolydd Helen, Cwm
Pen nan’maen, Pennant, Hafodty Dôl Camman, Llechwedd
Bychan, Foel Fras, and above Hafod Yspytty, &c.—Capel
Curig is in the Parish of Llandegai, and was a Chapel of ease to
that Church and Llanllechid, but is now served with Dolydd Helen;
it is dedicated to a reputed saint of the name of Curig,
respecting whom, and some other begging Friars, these Welsh lines
were written:
Un o honynt, a ddygai
Curig Lwyd, dan gwr ei glôg;
Gwas arall, a ddug Seiriol,
A naw o gaws yn ei gol.
A certain Friar, to increase his store
Beneath his cloak, grey Curig’s Image bore;
And, to protect good folks from nightly harm,
Another sells St. Seiriol as a charm.
It
may reasonably be supposed that St. Curig resided for some time
in this sequestered spot, as we find many persons of eminence, in
the fifth and sixth Centuries, to have fled from the borders of
Scotland, and other parts of Great Britain, to the Mountains of
Wales, to avoid the Saxon sword. Any person who may be
desirous of visiting the old British Castle of Dolydd Helen, may
take a guide from Capel Curig, and cross over near the foot of
that high mountain, Moel Siabod, often conspicuous from most
distant places. This fortress is situated on a high rock,
precipitous on one side and insulated; it consists of two square
Towers, one forty feet by twenty-five, the other thirty-one by
twenty; each had formerly three floors. This was founded by
one of our Welsh Princes, but we are ignorant of its
origin.—Iorwerth Drwyn dwn (or with the broken nose) made
this place his residence, and here is said to have been born his
son Llewelyn the Great, who began his reign in the time of
Richard the first. Meredydd ap Ievan, before mentioned, and
who was brought up at Crug, near Carnarvon, and who was an
ancestor of the Wynne’s of Gwydir, in the reign of Henry
VII. purchased the Lease of this Castle, and the Inclosures
belonging to it, from the Executors of Sir Ralph Berkenet, it
having been excepted among the places granted by Richard III. and
resumed by his successor. Before that time, Howel ap
Evan ap Rhys Gethin, a noted outlaw, resided here. As soon
as it came into the possession of Meredydd, he removed from his
habitation in Eifionydd, (a hundred in the County) to this
Castle, giving this excellent reason: “I had rather fight
with outlaws and thieves, than with my own blood and
kindred. If I live in my own house in Eifionydd, I must
either kill my own kinsmen, or be killed by them.”
The feuds among the principal gentlemen in Evionedd occasioned
perpetual murders, and Nant-Conwy was filled with banditti.
This gentleman soon reformed the Country; he established colonies
of the most tall and able men he could procure, till at last they
amounted to seven score tall bowmen, every one arrayed in a
jacket or armolet coat, a good steel cap, a short sword and
dagger, together with his bow and arrows; many of them also had
horses, and chasing slaves, which were ready to answer the cry on
all occasions. He founded the strong house of Pen
nan’maen, a mile distant from the Castle. He removed
the Church, which before lay in a thicket, to a more open place,
by way of security; for he never dared to quit his house, without
leaving in it a strong guard, and another of twenty tall Archers
to attend him, whenever he went to Church, besides a watchman, on
a rock called Carreg y Bîg, to give notice of the approach
of the banditti.—He ended his useful life in 1525, and left
behind him twenty-three legitimate, and three natural
children.—The Church had been an impropriation of the Abbey
of Beddgelert; it is very small, and has in it a monument
commemorating such of the family as were buried in it.
After proceeding so far, many persons may feel inclined to visit
Llanrwst, the rout to which we have before described, not only on
account of its celebrated Bridge, built by Inigo Jones, but in
order to visit the ancient Monuments within the Gwydir Chapel, of
which a most correct and beautiful view has lately been given to
the public, by Mr. H. Hughes, of Llan Saint Ffraid, Glann Conwy,
who is now publishing the Beauties of Cambria, and, as a native
artist of genius and merit, deserves the countenance and support
of every friend to his country.
We shall now return to the Village of Bethgelert, and proceed
from thence to the celebrated Pont Aberglaslyn, by some called
(though very improperly) the Devil’s Bridge, [149] about a mile distant; the first part
of the road is through some thriving plantations, afterwards
along the Banks of the River, when in a short time the mountains
approach so close, as to leave only room for the furious torrent
to roll over its stony bed, above which is a narrow road, formed
with incredible labour, impending over the water; the scenery is the most
magnificent that can be imagined: the mountains rise to very
uncommon height, and oppose to us nothing but a broken series of
precipices, one above the other, as high as the eye can
reach. Here is very little appearance of vegetation, yet
there are small patches here and there, sufficient to tempt the
poor goat to its destruction, for it will sometimes leap down to
an alluring tuft of verdure, where, without possibility of
return, it must remain to perish, after it has finished the
dear-bought repast. The Bridge terminates the pass, and
consists of a single Arch over a deep chasm, and supported on
each side by a projecting rock,—above is a small cataract,
where the traveller at times may have much amusement, in
observing the Salmon, in great numbers, make their efforts to
surmount the heights. Here had been a Royal weir, in the
Reign of Henry IV. which was then rented by Robert ap
Meredydd. It probably belonged, in old times, to our
natural Princes, for it seems to have been a most valuable
privilege, as we read that young Prince Elphin was endowed with
one by his Royal Father; and the celebrated Bard Taliesin, wrote
a Poem to console him on his disappointment in finding one
morning an empty weir, which probably in those times was very
seldom the case:
Elphin deg, taw ath wylo
Na chabled neb yr eiddo
Ni wna les drwg obeithio, &c.
Elphin, fair as roseate morn,
Cease o lovely youth to mourn &c.
See Pennant’s Tour.
Not far from this Bridge is shewn a stone, by the road side,
called Rhys Goch o Eryri’s chair, where it is said he used
to sit and compose his Poems; and not far from Meillionen, in
this Parish, was discovered in 1784, a curious Shield; supposed
to be British. There is an excellent road from Pont
Aberglaslyn to Tremadoc, along the Western Banks of the Glaslyn,
the distance about five miles; as also over the Bridge to Tan y
Bwlch and Festiniog, which is about seven or eight.
We shall now return once more to Carnarvon, and proceed nearly
along the Sea Coast, round the Promontory of Lleyn.—We have
already conducted the stranger as far as the small Bridge (Pont
Afon Rhyd), where the road branches off for Llanllyfni; having
proceeded about a mile further, observe on the right Mount Hazel,
the seat of the Rev. Glynne Bodvel Lewis, and between it and the
sea Llandwrog Church, where there are several handsome Monuments,
to the memory of the Wynne’s of Glynn Llivon, particularly
that of Sir John Wynn, (grandfather of the present Lord
Newborough,) who built that house, which is now much neglected,
and greatly out of repair, owing to the minority of the
proprietor. Glynn is on the left of the road, and near the
little river Llifon, issuing from the Cilgwyn Mountains. Cilmin Droed-ddu, or Kilmin
with the black foot, one of the fifteen tribes of North
Wales, and nephew to Merfryn Frych, Prince of Wales, slain 841,
was the founder of this family, and is said to have had his
residence near this spot; they bear, in allusion to the name of
their Ancestor, a man’s leg coupe a la cuisse,
sable: he is said to have injured his leg in some dangerous
encounter, and that it became discoloured, and that he continued
lame in consequence of this unfortunate circumstance. Glynn
Llifon came into possession of the late Sir John Wynn, by the
marriage of his father, Thomas Wynn, Esq. of Boduan, in Lleyn,
with Frances, second daughter to John Glynn, Esq. of Glynn
Llifon.—The Glynns of Lleiar, and Plas Newydd, near Glynn
Llifon, were branches of this family: the latter afterwards
became the property of the Owens of Bodowen, in Anglesey.
The principal Roman encampment, in this neighbourhood, is Dinas
Dinlle, situated upon the verge of the Irish Channel, and almost
in the centre of Carnarvon Bay; the Western part of it is washed
by all the higher tides, and it is not more than ten or fifteen
yards above the sea at any other time; it not only commands the
Bay itself, its Creeks and Harbours, but has also a boundless
prospect towards the Main Ocean, or Irish Channel, anciently
called Mare Vergivium, and in Welsh, Môr Werydd, insomuch
that no Vessel can pass to the Southward, without being
observed by those who keep a good look out at their
station. The following Roman and British Posts and
Encampments, being not far distant from the road, may be
conveniently visited by the curious Tourist, as he proceeds on
his journey.—Many of them appear to have been out-posts and
appendages to the principal Dinas’s, and to have had
a regular connection and communication with Segontium:
1. Dinas Dinoethwy, near Pont Newydd, now the residence
of Captain Jones.—Length, 180 paces; Breadth, 60; South
side slope, 20; North ditto, 30.
2. Hen Gastell, on the brook Carrog, half a mile South
of the above, and in the Parish of Llanwnda.—Length, 40
paces; Breadth 30.
3. Dinas Efrog, or Franog, near Collfryn, in
Llandwrog.—Length, 70 paces; Breadth, 30.
4. Dinas y Prif, hot far distant from the last, a Square
Fort, 50 yards by 50.
5. Craig y Ddinas, a considerable Fortification, on the
River Llyfni, a little to the N.W. of Lleiar.—Length, from
N. to S. 120 yards; Ditto from E. to W. 90 yards; Slope of the
Inner Rampart, on the North side, 10 yards; Ditto of the Outer
ditto, 8 yards; Slope on the Sooth side, 40 yards.
6. Caer Ffridd, a Stone Fort, near Ffrwd Ysgyfarnog, not
far from Glynn.
7. Bwlan, a fortified eminence, near the same place.
8. Brynn y Gorseddau, an eminence where there are some
Druidical Remains.
9. Carnedd Angharad, a Grave in Glynn Park, North of the
house.
10. Bedd Gwennen, another Grave, near Ffrwd
Ysgyfarnog.
11. Bettws Gwenrhyw, the ruins of an old family Chapel,
belonging to Glynn.
12. Muriau Gwilym Ddu, on Tyddyn Tudur Land, the ruins
of the habitation of the old Bard of that name.
13. Talwrn yr Arch, on Bodaden Land, and behind that
house, on Rhos Tryfan Common, were visible, some years ago,
several detached parts of an old Roman Road.
Llandwrog is a large extensive Parish, and contains
about 10,000 Acres of Land; the resident population, in 1801, was
1175. The Church is dedicated to St. Twrog; it is a
Rectory, in the patronage of the Bishop, and is valued in the
King’s Books at £11. 11s.
5½d.—Dinas Dinlle is in this Parish, the
Roman Road from which to Segontium, is uncommonly interesting, as
it is carried chiefly over a flat marsh, once a morass, and
broken only in one part by a river, the ford over which is at
this day called Rhyd y Pedestri; but Rhyd y Equestri,
which is mentioned Mr. Rowlands, in his History of Anglesey, is
now scarcely known.—Many Roman Coins have been discovered
here, particularly those of the Emperors Gallienus, Tetricus
Senior, Tetricus Cæsar,
Carausius, and Alectus.
After passing Glynn, we cross the Llifon, and about two miles
further the Llyfni, a rapid Stream, flowing out of Llynn Nanlle,
and soon afterwards arrive at Clynnog,
a neat pleasant Village, beautifully situated on a plain, near
the Sea shore. There is a very handsome venerable looking
old Church, which has greatly the appearance of a Cathedral; it
is built in form of a cross: the length, from East to West, is
about one hundred and thirty-eight feet, and from North to South,
seventy. Near the Altar are three neat Stalls, divided by
pillars supporting Gothic Arches, the seats of the officiating
Priests;—the Monuments are not numerous, there is one
however to William Glynn de Lleiar, with his figure and those of
his wife and seven children, another to his son in law George
Twisleton, Esq. of Aula Barrow in Yorkshire, and in right
of his wife of Lleiar; he is generally supposed to be the same
with Colonel Twisleton, who was an active officer under
Cromwell, and took the gallant Sir John Owen, of Clenenney,
prisoner.—Adjoining to the Church, is the Chapel of St.
Beuno; the passage to it is a narrow vault, covered with large
flat stones, and of far greater antiquity than either Church, or
Chapel, which seem nearly coeval. The reader will not be
displeased to see the following extract from Leland, respecting
this venerable old Fabrick:—“Clunnock Vawr, yn Arvon,
in the Commot of Uwch Gurvay, is a great Parish, and the fairest
Church in all Caernarvonshire, and is better than Bangor, is 15
miles beyond it, and about the same distance as that town from
the shore.—Clunnock Vawr was some time a Monastery of White
Monks, suppressed many years ago, but the original of this
Monastery was by St. Beuno, of whom mention is made in St.
Winifrede’s Life. The White Monks were of a newer
foundation. Gwytheint, uncle to one of the Princes of North
Wales, was the first giver of Clunnock Village and place to
Benow. The Church that is now there, with cross isles, is
almost as big as St. David’s, but it is of a new work; the
old Church, where St. Benow lieth, is hard by the
new.” The Chapel was probably built after Leland had
visited the place, in the room of the old Church, which might
have fallen to ruin. In the middle of the Chapel was the
tomb of the Saint, plain and altar shaped, but it was in a great
measure demolished, about 20 years ago, when some workmen were
employed by the late Lord Newborough, to dig in search of the
Saint’s bones. Votaries were wont to have great faith
in him, and did not doubt but that by means of a night’s
lodging on his tomb, a cure would be found for all diseases; it
was customary to cover it with rushes, and leave on it till
morning sick children, after making them first undergo ablution,
in the neighbouring holy well. St. Beuno, after he had
assumed the Monastic habit, founded a Convent here in
616.—Cadvan, King of North Wales, was his great Patron, and
promised him much Land; his son, Cadwallon, performed the
promise, and received from the Saint a golden Sceptre, worth
Sixty Cows; the land was afterwards claimed, in behalf of a
little infant, and his title proved good,—the King refuses
either to give other Land in lieu, or to resign the present,
Beuno cursed him and went away, but was appeased by Gwrddeint,
first cousin to the King, who overtook him, and gave the Town of
Celynnog, for ever, to God and St. Beuno, for his soul’s
sake, and that of the wicked Cadwallon. Long after his time, the
Carmelites, or White Monks, had here an establishment; they were
however suppressed, sometime before the Lincoln Taxation, in the
year 1291, as the Church was then Collegiate, consisting of five
portionists or prebendaries, and it so continued to the
Dissolution. The Rectory, valued in the King’s Books
at £24. is annexed to the Headship of Jesus College,
Oxford, and the Vicarage, which is discharged, and valued at
£6. is in the gift of the Bishop; here is an excellent
Vicarage House, built by the late Vicar, the Rev. John
Williams. Under the article Tiboeth, in Dr. Davies’s
Welsh-Latin and Latin-Welsh Dictionary, we have an account of a
curious old M.S.: which was preserved in this Church, called
Llyfr Beuno Sant, said to have been written by Twrog, and
seen here by Dr. Thomas Williams, of Trefriw, in 1594.—This
curious Relic, which has been missing many years, is said to have
been discovered lately by Mr. Edward Williams, (alias Iolo
Morganwg).—There is a tradition, that an Ancient
British Town, situated near this place, called Caer
Arianrhod, was swallowed up by the Sea, the ruins of which,
it is said, are still visible, during neap tides, and in fine
weather. Many of the Kings, and principal inhabitants of
the Country, appear to have been benefactors to the original
religious establishment at this place: Cadwalader gave
Grayanog,—Tegwared gave Porthamel,—Cadell bestowed
Kilcourt,—Prince Mervin, Carnguwch,—Cadwgan ap
Cynfelyn, Bodweiliog and Bodvel, in Lleyn,—Idwal endowed it
with Penrhos and Clynnog Fechan, in Anglesey, and many others,
which may be seen in Dugdale.—The offerings of calves and
lambs, which happen to be born with the Nôd Beuno, mark of St. Beuno, (a
certain natural mark in the ear,) have now nearly ceased; they
used to be brought to the Church on Trinity Sunday, the
anniversary of the Saint, and delivered to the Church Wardens,
who were accustomed to sell and account for them, and put the
value into a great Chest, called Cyff Beuno, made of one
piece of oak, secured with three locks, from which circumstance
the Welsh in these parts have a proverb, for attempting any
difficult thing, “you may as well try to break St.
Beuno’s Chest.” The little money resulting from
the sacred Beasts, or casual offerings, were either applied to
the relief of the poor, or in aid of repairs. There is a
curious antique Chalice, preserved amongst the Communion Plate,
with the following Inscription, on the lid or cover:
Tu Nazarenus Rex Judeorum
Fili Dei, miserere mei.
Those who are curious in Druidical Antiquities, may see a very
uncommon Cromlech, on the Tenement of Bachwen, about half a mile
from this place, between the road and the sea. The inclination
of the upper stone is to the West, on its surface are numbers of
small shallow holes, with two or three larger than the rest,
possibly for some purpose of augury; at thirty paces distance, is
an upright stone, placed, as is supposed, to mark the limits of
approach to the people, while the rites were performing by the
Druid Priest. On the left, as we proceed towards the
pass or defile, between the mountains, are two lofty conical
hills, called Gern Goch, and Gern Ddu; and, on the right, are
those well known by the name of Rivals (yr Eifl [159]). This Bwlch, or Pass, now
called Bwlch Llanaelhaiarn, is supposed to be the ancient Bwlch
Dau Fynydd, frequently mentioned as the scene of many a bloody
battle. Near this small Church we quit the Pwllheli road,
and turn to the right towards Nevin; but before we leave this
celebrated mountain, we shall take an opportunity of examining
Tre’r Ceiri and Vortigern’s Valley; of both which we
have a long, interesting, and circumstantial account in
Pennant’s Tour.—It is very probable that the
Districts of Lleyn and Eifionydd, served as a secure retreat to
the Britons in ancient times, as most of the hills and eminences
in both are strongly fortified, the names of some of which are
subjoined: Carn Madryn and Carn Boduan,—Moel Garn
Guwch,—The Rivals, Tre’r Ceiri,—Moel Ben Tyrch,
between that and Penmorva,—Gaer Tyddyn Mawr,—Castell
Gwgan, remarkable for a small circular entrenchment; and Pen y
Gaer.—To these many others might be added, but we are
reminded that neither our confined limits nor the nature of the
work, will admit of very detailed or circumstantial descriptions
of either these or any other ancient fortifications, we can
therefore only touch on these subjects very superficially, and
throw out a few hints as we proceed along.
Tre’r Ceiri.—Across a
hollow, from one summit of the Rivals (Eifl) to the other,
extends an immense rampart of stones, or perhaps the ruins of a
wall, which effectually block up the pass; and near this place,
on the summit of these hills, is a most perfect and regularly
fortified British Post, called Tre’r Caerau, the Town of
Fortresses, or perhaps Tre’r Ceiri, the Town of the
Giants. The most accessible side is defended by three
walls; the lowest is very imperfect, the next tolerably entire,
and has in it the grand entrance; this wall, in one part, points
upwards towards the third, and runs round the edges of the top of
the hill; the second wall unites with the first, which runs into
a point, reverts and joins the highest, in a place where the hill
becomes inaccessible: the facing on the two upper walls are very
entire, especially that of the uppermost; they are lofty, and
exhibit from below a grand and extensive front; the space on the
top is an irregular area, part is steep and part flat, and is
covered with heath, which affords shelter to a few red
grouse;—the whole is almost filled with cells.—To be
seen with advantage, the station should be taken from the summit,
about which the cells (which are the foundations of the huts of
the soldiers,) are very distinct, and disposed with much art:
about the middle is a square place, fenced with stores, a sort of
Prætorium, surrounded with two rows of cells;
numbers are also scattered about the plain, and others again are
contiguous to the wall, all along the inside. The
fortifications on Pen-maen-mawr bear a great similarity to the
mode of defence adopted on this strong Post. The cells are
mostly perfect, of various forms, round, oval, oblong, and
square; some of the round are fifteen feet in diameter, of the
oblong, thirty feet in length, with long entrances, regularly
faced with stone; all of them, when inhabited, were no doubt well
protected from the weather, by roofs covered with thatch and
sod. The upper wall was in many places fifteen feet high on
the outside, and often sixteen feet broad; it consisted of two
parallel and contiguous parts, one higher than the other, serving
as a parapet to the lower, which seemed to have its walk, like
that at Chester; there was in one place a cell in the thickness
of the wall, or perhaps a sally port, in part stopped by the falling
in of the stones. There is an excellent plan of this
encampment in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. We shall now
descend from these elevated summits, in order to visit Nant
Gwrtheyrn, or Vortigern’s Valley, where that Prince is said
to have fled from the rage of his subjects, and where it was said
he and his Castle were consumed with lightning. His life
had been profligate, the Monks therefore were determined that he
should not die the common death of all men, and accordingly made
him perish with signal marks of the vengeance of Heaven.
Fancy cannot frame a place more fit for a retreat from the
knowledge of mankind, or more apt to inspire one with full hopes
of security from any pursuit.—Embosomed in a lofty
mountain, on two sides bounded by stony steeps, on which no
vegetables appear, but the blasted heath and stunted gorse; the
third side exhibits a most tremendous front of black precipice,
with the loftiest peak of the mountain Eifl soaring above,
and the only opening to this secluded spot is towards the sea, a
northern aspect; the Glenn is tenanted by a few families, who
raise oats, and keep a few cattle, sheep, and goats. Just
above the sea is a high and verdant mount, natural, but the top
and sides fortified by art; on this might have been the residence
of the unfortunate Prince, of which time has destroyed every
other vestige. Till the beginning of the last century, a
tumulus of stone within, and externally covered with turf,
was to be seen here; it was known by the name of Bedd
Gwrtheyrn, tradition having regularly delivered down the
report of this having been the place of his interment. The
inhabitants of the Parish dug into the Carn, and found in
it a stone Coffin, containing the bones of a tall man. This
gives a degree of credibility to the tradition, especially as no
other bones were found with it, no other tumuli on the
spot; a proof at least of respect to the rank of the person; and
that the place was deserted after the death of the Royal
Fugitive, about the year 465. Craig y Llam, near this
place, is a tremendous lofty precipice, impending over the sea,
and frequented in the summer season by numerous flocks of
migratory birds, where their nests are ranged in regular tiers,
on the ledges of this singular rock, in the same manner as at
Gogarth, near Conway before-mentioned; underneath is a curious
cave, accessible only by water, and visited in fine weather by
different parties of pleasure, who bring their provisions along
with them, and dine in the recesses of the Cliff.
From hence we descend again to the road, pass by Pistill, a
little Chapel, annexed to Edern, and soon arrive at Nevin, a small Town, and Contributory
Borough to Carnarvon; this place was bestowed on Nigel de
Lohareyn, by the Black Prince, in the twelfth year of his
Principality, and made a free borough, was allowed a Guild
Mercatory with every privilege attendant on other free Boroughs,
and all the liberties and Customs granted heretofore to that of
Newborough, in Anglesey. He also gave it a grant of two
Fairs, annually, and a Market on a Sunday, to which the
Inhabitants of the Commot of Dinlleyn, were obliged to
resort. Here Edward the First, in 1284, held his triumph on
the conquest of Wales, and perhaps to conciliate the affections
of his new subjects, in imitation of our Hero Arthur, held a
round table, and celebrated it with dance and tournament,
Where throngs of Knights and Barons bold,
In weeds of Peace, high triumphs hold;
With store of Ladies, whose bright eyes
Reign influence, and judge the prize
Of wit or arms, while both contend
To win her grace whom all commend.
The concourse was prodigious, for not only the chief Nobility
of England, but numbers from foreign parts graced the festival
with their presence. The Gauls, as we are informed, sat at
their round tables, to destroy all dispute about precedence; and
every Knight had at his back a Squire with his Armour, in
waiting. The Market is on Saturday, and the Fairs are
holden on the fourth of April, Saturday before Whitsuntide, 25th
of August, and 18th of September. The Church is dedicated
to St. Mary; it is a discharged Rectory and Vicarage, valued in
the King’s Books at £2. 13s. 4d.
and is in the patronage of Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. of Cefn
Amwlch. Nevin is situated upon the Irish Channel, and has a
small Pier, which is found to be very useful for the Herring
Fishery, by which the Inhabitants principally subsist. The
Herrings, about the year 1771, were taken here is vast abundance,
from Perth Ysgadan, or the Port of Herrings, to Bardsey Island,
and all along this coast; the capture amounted usually to the
value of about four thousand pounds. These desultory fish,
says Mr. Pennant, about the period above-mentioned, appeared in
July and went away in October; in earlier times, they came in
September and disappeared in November; Dories are also
often taken here: the fishermen, till within these last 20 years,
were wont to fling them away, on account of their ugly
appearance, however they at last discovered that they were
accounted a great luxury. Crabs and Lobsters are also taken
on this Coast, in great abundance, particularly about Bardsey,
and are conveyed to the Liverpool Market. After quitting
the small poor town of Nevin, we soon arrive at Porth Dinlleyn,
near which is a Dinas, or fortified eminence, which probably gave
name not only to this excellent harbour, but also to the Commot
in which it is situated. An attempt was made some years
ago, by W. A. Madocks, Esq. and some other gentlemen, to
establish a regular communication between this place and Ireland,
and for that purpose, a new road was made from hence to Tremadoc,
and considerable sums of money were expended in erecting a
breakwater or pier-head here, building a new Inn, &c. in
hopes that Government would be prevailed upon to give this
harbour the preference, and bring the Packets here from Holyhead,
and consequently that the Mail Coaches would run this road;
however, this plan, for some reasons not known to the writer, did
not succeed. From hence, Garn Madryn, and Garn Beduan Hills
make a very conspicuous appearance, near the former of which is
the seat of Parry Jones Parry, Esq. and not far from the latter
is the Church and Parish of that name, and the neglected seat of
the Wynne’s, ancestors of Lord Newborough. We then
pass through the small Village of Edeyrn or Edern; the living is
a Rectory, in the gift of the Bishop, valued in the King’s
Books at £8. 5s. the Church is dedicated to St.
Edern. The distance from hence to Tydweiliog, the next
little village, is about three or four miles, this is a small
perpetual Curacy, Church dedicated to St. Gwyfen, a female Saint,
whose festival is on the 3d of June. Not far distant from
hence, on the left of the road, are two old Family Seats; the
first is Brynodol, the property of J. Griffith, of Llanfair, Esq.
here it seems Mr. Pennant was most hospitably entertained, by his friend the late Hugh Griffith, Esq.
(father of the last-mentioned gentleman), when he made the Tour
of this part of the County. Brynodol, by advantage of
situation on the side of a hill, commands a vast view of a flat
woodless tract, the sea, and a noble mass of mountains: The Eifl
hills, Garn Boduan, and the huge Garn Madryn rise in the
fore-ground, and beyond these soars all Snowdonia, from those
Alps which surround the Wyddfa, to the most remote in the County
of Merioneth. The other is Cefnamwlch, now the property of
Wynne Finch Griffith, Esq. and many years ago the occasional
residence of John Griffith, of Voelas, Esq. a gentleman whose
family, as well as that of Brynnodol, claim descent from the
Princes of Wales. From Tudweiliog to Aberdaron the distance
is about eight miles, over the Common of Rhôs Hirwen, and a
flat uninteresting Country; during this latter part of the
journey, the road passes within a short distance of several small
Churches, such as Penllech and Llan Gwnadle on the right; and
Meyllteyrn and Bryncroes on the left: near this extremity of the
Promontory, are also the ruins of several little Chapels, such as
Eglwys Fair, Capel Anelog, Capel Odo, Capel Bodferyn, Capel Cwm
Dylif, &c. which proves that this part of the main land (as
well as the Island of Bardsey) was the retreat of numerous
recluses and devotees, in ancient times.—At Llan Gwnadl
(alias Gwynhoydyl) is the following inscription: S. GWYNHOYDYL IACIT HIC
750: & HÆC ÆDES ÆDIFICATA &c. On
the sea coast are several small Creeks, useful to the fishermen,
who find in them during the Herring fishery, a safe retreat from
storms; the names of some of which we shall here introduce Porth
Towyn, Porth Colman, Porth Gwylan, Porth Ysgadan, Porth Cadlan,
(or Cadfan), Porth Llywennan, Porth Orion, Porth Iago, Porth
Feryn, Porth Neudwy, (or Meudwy) Porth Samddai, &c. At
a place called Hen Fonwent, not far from the ruins of an old
town, Tre Dindywydd, in the parish of Bryn croes, several earthen
pots and urns were discovered some years ago, containing ashes
and human bones; and near Ty Engion, an old stone altar was
found, called Cerrig Inco, and another near Monachdy, in the same
Parish; and a stone Coffin, (Cistfaen) on Ty mawr Farm, near the
same place. There are also several British encampments in
this neighbourhood, viz. Castell Caeron, on Mynydd y Rhiw
mountain; Castell Odo, on Mynydd Ystum; and two on Mynydd Cilan,
in the parish of Llan Engan. Several eminences bear the
name of Pen yr Orsedd, i.e. the Throne, or Seat of Judicature,
two of these are not far distant from Nevin; and near Cefnamwlch
is a Cromlech, called Coetan Arthur. The following wells
may also be mentioned as remarkable, on account of their bearing
the names of British Saints; viz. Ffynnon Saint, Ffynnon
Ddurdan, Ffynnon Cefn Llaethfaen, Ffynnon Eliw, in the Parish of
Rhiw; Ffynnon Garmon, in Aberdaron, and Ffynnon Lleuddad, in
Bryncroes.
Aberdaron is a small fishing Village, situated on a sandy Bay,
at the extremity of the Promontory of Lleyn (Langanum
Promontorium); the mouth of the Bay is protected by two
little Islands, called Ynys Gwylan; it takes its name from
the rivulet Daron, which here empties itself into the sea;
the inhabitants are mostly fishermen. The Church, which
consists of two aisles, supported by four handsome pillars, is
dedicated to St. Hoywyn; it was a sanctuary, and much frequented
by pilgrims; Leland says it was called Llan Engan Frenin,
(Fanum Niniani Reguli), but it is very probable, that the
transcribers of his work must have made a mistake, as Llan
Engan is seven or eight miles distant, on the road to
Pwllhely, and where there is a very curious inscription on the
Steeple, copied and explained by Mr. Rowlands. The
Rectorial Tithes belong to St. John’s College, Cambridge;
the Vicarage is in the patronage of the Bishop. This and
Porth Meudwy, (a small Creek near it) were the places where
Devotees, in former times, usually embarked for Bardsey (Enlli),
and the curious stranger, who may wish to visit that Island, can
easily procure a boat here, but before he sets sail he should
examine the ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (Capel Fair), and
also our Lady’s Cave and Well, (Ogof Mair a Ffynnon Fair,)
the former is situated in a small plain, between two hills, Uwch
Mynydd a Mynydd y Gwyddel, and the latter not far distant, nearly
at the foot of a dreadful precipice called Maen Melyn, and from
which, no doubt, this Commot (Cwmmwd-maen) takes its name.
There is a most hazardous and circuitous path, down to the Cave
and Well, along which Devotees frequently descended in former
days, and even at the present time many are induced to visit the
spot from curiosity. Maen Melyn is a yellow rock, streaked
with white veins, in the middle of a black precipice, and at a
distance has much the appearance of a large dog or leopard.
In the dark ages of Popish Superstition it was supposed that if a
person could descend by this path, and bring up a mouthful of
water from the well, his wish would be certainly fulfilled; the
Cape, at the end of the Promontory is called Penyccil, and
the ridge of hills Braich y pwll. This Chapel was placed
here, in all probability, to give the seamen an opportunity of
invoking the tutelar Saint for protection through this dangerous
Sound.
The Convent at Bardsey (Enlli) was one of the most ancient
religious Institutions in North Wales, for Eineon Frenin, one of
the Regnli of the County is said, in conjunction with Emyr Llydaw, to
have founded a College in that Island, about the middle of the
9th Century, and Lleudad (Landatus) is generally supposed to have
been the first Abbot. Dufrig, (Dubritius) Archbishop of
Caerleon, is represented in our Welsh Annals to have resigned in
favour of St. David’s, and to have retired to Bardsey,
where he died about the year 612, from which circumstance, it is
evident that there must have been a religious establishment here
prior to that period. It seems likely to have been a seat
of the Culdees, or Colidei, the first religious
recluses of Great Britain, who sought Islands and desert places,
in which they might in security worship the true God. It
was certainly resorted to in very early times, for we are
assured, from undoubted authority, that it flourished as a
Convent in the days of Cadvan, King of Britain, who was
coeval with Dubritius, it was an Abbey, dedicated to St. Mary,
and in the Sebright MSS. a petition is recorded, says Mr.
Pennant, from the Abbot to Edward II. in which he sets forth the
injuries he had received from the Sheriff of Carnarvon, who had
extorted from him 68s. 6d. contrary to his Deed of
ffeoffment, on which the King directed Roger de Mortimer,
Justiciary of Wales, to make enquiry into the matter, who
reported that the Abbot held his Lands, in the County of
Carnarvon, in puram et perpetuam elemosynam, without any service
or secular acknowledgment; and further, that David, Lord of Lleyn,
and brother to the last Prince of Wales, had exacted the same
sum, as did his Pencynydd, or Master of his Dogs, possibly
under pretence of maintaining them; the King therefore, by his
special favor, and by advice of his Council, does for ever remit
the said sum and all arrears, and directs that no one in future,
either on his account or that of his heirs, ever should molest
the Convent. The slaughter of the Monks, at Bangor Iscoed,
about the year 607, is supposed to have contributed to the
population of this Island, for not only the brethren who escaped,
but numbers of other pious Britons fled hither, to avoid the rage
of the Saxons.
There is a most curious, though superstitious document, still
extant, written in Latin, in which it is asserted, that in
consequence of the prayers of Holy Lleudad (Sanctus Laudatus) one
of the first Abbots, and in consideration of the good and pious
lives of the first Members of this Convent, the Almighty granted
them the strange and uncommon privilege of departing out of this
mortal life by seniority, so that like grapes in the vintage, (as
it is there expressed) the most ripe (i.e. the eldest) was cut
down first; and that this continued to be the case for many
years, until these once Holy Brethren became again degenerated,
and relapsed into various sins and vices, so that the Almighty
was incensed against them, and summoned them hence, like the
rest of mankind, without any respect to age or
seniority.—This may serve as a specimen of the numerous
tales and legends, invented by these and other idle and bigotted
Monks.
This small Island, according to the Welsh History, afforded
asylum, during life, to twenty thousand reputed Saints,
and, after death, graves to as many of their bodies; well
therefore might it be called Insula Sanctorum, Isle of
Saints; but, with Dr. Fuller, it must be observed, that it would
be much easier to find graves in Bardsey, for so many Saints,
than Saints for so many graves.—Nine hundred of these
Devotees are said to have fled hither from the Massacre of the
Monks, at Bangor Iscoed, in Flintshire.
The following are the names of some of the first Abbots, and
reputed Saints, who are said to have been buried there:
1. Lleudad, (Laudatus) the first Abbot.
2. Dufrig, (Dubricius) once Arch Bishop of Caerlleon ar
Wysg, or Llandaf.
3. St. David, who retired hither from the Synod of
Brevi, (Llan Ddewi Brefi).
4. Cadvan, who came to Wales from Llydaw, or Armorica,
attended by the following persons: Padarn, Hywyn, Sulien, Tanwg,
Tydecho, Tecwyn, and many others.
5. Dewrdan, or Dwrdan, from whom Bodwrda, in this
neighbourhood is supposed to have been so called, or from Cowrda,
to whom Abererch Church is dedicated.
6. Daniel, first Bishop of Bangor.
7. Beuno, to whom Clynnog Fawr is dedicated.
8. Myrddin ap Morfryn, (or Merlinus Caledonius or
Sylvestris).
9. Hywyn ap Gwnda Hên, Steward to Cadvan, and to
the Saints at Bardsey.
10. Dervel, to whom Llan Dderfel in
Merionethshire is dedicated.
11. Eineon, or Engan Frenin, King of Lleyn.
12. Cawrdaf St. at Abererch.
13. Cadwallawn ap Owen Gwynedd, Abbot in the year
1169.
14. Thomas ap Griffith Nicholas, of Dinevor, in South
Wales, who was killed in a Duel at Penal, in Merionethshire, was
buried here.
15. Griffith ap Thomas, nephew of Griffith ap Nicholas,
was interred here.
16. Hugh ap Richard ap Sion ap Madog, of Bodwrda, was
buried here, in the time of Queen Elizabeth.—See William
Lleyn’s Elegy on his Death.
This little Inland, at present contains about twelve or
fifteen houses, and about sixty or seventy inhabitants, who are
mostly fishermen.—It produces very good barley, and round
its coast are great plenty of fish, and abundance of Lobsters,
which are mostly sent (as before observed) to the Liverpool
Market.
The revenues of the Monastery, at the general Dissolution,
amounted, according to Dugdale, to £46. 1s. 4d.
Tradition says, that Aberdaron, Bryn-croes, and Nevin, originally
belonged to Bardsey, but at present the Tythes of those three
Parishes, are the property of the Cefn Amwlch Family; and it is
very probable that one of their ancestors purchased them of the
King (Henry VIII.) or his Ministers at that time. This
Island was granted by Edward VI. to his Uncle, Sir T. Seymour,
and afterwards to John, Earl of Warwick; and the present
proprietor’s father purchased it from Dr. Wilson of
Newark. A tenement, called Court, in the Parish of
Aberdaron, originally belonged to Bardsey, and was granted and
purchased with the Inland, as before described. Part of
Lleyn is to this day, called the Lordship or Manor of Bardsey,
and a kind of Leet Court is still held, occasionally, either at
Aberdaron, Bryncroes or Tydweiliog, which is called the Court of
the Lord of the Manor of Bardsey. The present Lord of the
Manor is the Marquis of Anglesey; there are also a Recorder,
Bailiff and Constable, attached to this Lordship. The Court
was probably held, formerly, at the above-mentioned Farm, which
still bears the name of Court; and not far off is another place,
called Secar (Exchequer), and it seems there was a prison
or gaol there, for near it is a hill, called Brynn y Grogbren, or
Gallows Hill.—In general, when any of the Inhabitants die,
they are brought to Aberdaron for interment; but in very stormy
weather, the corpse is buried in the old Abbey Church yard, and
the person who is best qualified reads the funeral service.
Many years ago, when some of the Inhabitants had been to a Mill
at Aberdaron, a great tempest arose on their return, and they
were blown to the Coast of Cardiganshire, and landed in
safety. A Light House is very much wanted on this Island,
as, for want of such an object to direct them, Vessels are driven
on Sarn Badrig-Goffrydiau-Caswennan, and other dangerous rocks,
and many lives lost every year. We are happy to add, that
such a
building is at present in contemplation. There are several
Welsh Poems still extant, addressed to some of the
Abbots.—Not far from hence is Carreg, the seat of Robert
Thomas Carreg, Esq. now resident at Cefn mine.
The distance from Aberdaron to Pwllheli is about twenty miles;
the road along the sea coast by Llanfaelrhys, Rhiw,
Llandegwnning, Llan Engan, and Llanbedrog, is the most
interesting.—On a part of the Promontory, called Penrhyn
Du, in former years, have been considerable adventurers for
Lead Ore, and attempts to drain the mines, by means of a fire
Engine, but the expences proved to exceed the profits.—The
dangerous Bay, between Rhiw Mountain (Mynydd y Rhiw) and Penrhyn
Du, is called by the Sailors Hell’s Mouth, being considered
the Scylla to the Charybdis of Sarn Badrig, whose
extremity lies nearly opposite; and if the mariners can pass
between these two, there is a very secure anchorage for ships of
large burthen, at a place called the St. Tudwal Roads, near the
two Islands of that name, on the largest of which are the remains
of a small Chapel, dedicated to that reputed Saint.—At
Abersoch, near this place, is also a small but safe harbour,
where barley and other articles, the produce of this part of the
County, are exported, and coals, &c. imported. At
Gelliwig, which was (for we greatly regret to hear that he
is lately dead) the residence of Colonel Evan Jones, a gentleman who,
as a brave and enterprizing officer, distinguished himself in
several campaigns, particularly in Egypt, under Sir Ralph
Abercrombie; the writer cannot refrain from paying this tribute
to departed worth, for he was certainly an honor to his country,
and greatly beloved by all who knew him. And at Nanhoron,
in this neighbourhood, is the elegant and hospitable seat of
Colonel Edwards, one of the few gentlemen who constantly reside
in the country, and give regular employment to a number of poor
labourers, and set a good example to their tenantry in
Agricultural improvements. The following inscription was
transcribed from a Monument, erected to the memory of his brave
father, Captain Edwards, in the Parish Church of Llan Gian:
“Sacred to the memory of Timothy Edwards,
Esq. of Nanhoron, who, being appointed to the command of the
Cornwall Man of War, of 74 Guns, in the year 1777, and having, in
the course of a twelve-month, distinguished himself in four
successive engagements, in the West Indies, against the French
Fleet, was unfortunately, on his return home, carried off by a
bilious fever, on the 12th of July, 1780, aged 49, before he had
received those honors from his King and Country, which were
destined to be the reward of his gallant and faithful
services.—His disconsolate widow, penetrated with the deepest
regret, for her irreparable loss, caused this Monument to be
erected.
“In cœlo
quies.”
Llyn, or Lleyn, is a very extensive Hundred, in general flat,
but interspersed with most characteristic hills or rocks, rising
insulated in several parts; none makes so conspicuous a figure as
Carn Madryn, Carn Boduan, and Mynydd Mynytho, (Mann-noeth-wy);
the country, of late years, is greatly improved, owing to the
laudable example of the resident gentlemen. The chief
produce is oats, barley, pigs, and black cattle; it is supposed
that above three thousand of the latter are annually sold out of
these parts; much oats, barley, butter and cheese, are
exported.—The land is good, particularly for grazing, being
watered by a thousand rills; it is in general destitute of trees,
except near gentlemen’s seats,—the example of
planting, set by men of property, is however rapidly spreading;
and by an Act, passed some years ago, many of the commons and
waste lands have been enclosed, and brought into a state of
cultivation. Giraldus Cambrensis, in his Itinerarium
Cambriæ, says, that the Cantreds of Lleyn and Eifionydd
were the possessions of Owen Gwynedd’s children, when he
passed through Wales, and that they had two Castles, one at Carn
Madryn, and the other at Penrhyn Deudraeth. Castellmarch,
in this neighbourhood, is an old family seat, now the
property of Thomas Asheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Margaret
Griffith, heiress of Plas mawr, in Carnarvon, and Trefarthen, in
Anglesey, married Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Llyn, Esq.
and her daughter Margaret Jones, heiress of Castellmarch, married
Sir William Williams, of Vaenol, Baronet. Not far from the
road is Wern fawr, now in ruins, the property of Parry Jones
Parry, Esq. of Madryn. Near Llanbedrog is the Cottage, the
residence of Lloyd Caldecot, Esq. and before we enter Pwllheli,
is Bodegroes, the hospitable seat of Glynn Griffith, Esq. and not
far distant is Bodvel, [179] an old house,
which had the honor of giving birth to the celebrated Mrs.
Piotzi.
Pwllheli is the principal Town in
this part of the County, and the Magazine of Goods which supplies
all this tract; it lies near the sea shore, and has a tolerable
harbour for vessels of about 60 tons: Leland styles it
“statio optima Carinis.” The entrance is by a
high rock, called Carreg y Wimbill, (the Gimlet,) which is near a
mile from land, to which it is joined by a range of sand
hills. This place, as well as Nevin, was made a free
Borough, by the Black Prince, by Charter, dated the 12th year of
his Principality, at Carnarvon, in compliment to Nigel [180] de Loryng, or Lohareyn,
one of the gentlemen of his bedchamber, on whom he had bestowed,
Nevin and Pwllhely, in consideration of his great service in
Gascony, and particularly at the Battle of
Poitiers. He entitles him to “servitiis
quorumcunque tenentium tam liberorum quam nativorum,” by
which it may be presumed, that he did not include the Welsh in
the privileges; what those were we do not learn, but they were
the same which the Burgesses of Rosfair, in Anglesey enjoyed, and
for them Pwllheli was to pay to Nigel fourteen pounds a year, and
Nevin thirty-two. This Borough and Nevin, he freely
bestowed on him, with all its appurtenances, together with four
librates of Land, towards the repairs of his Manors, and
for all these he was only to pay an acknowledgment of a rose, in
lieu of all services; if he died without issue the whole was to
revert to the crown. Edward III. afterwards confirmed these
grants to Sandwich. Denio, the Parish Church, (or
rather a Chapel to the Vicarage of Llannor) stands on a hill
about half a mile out of the Town; it is dedicated to St.
Beuno. The Markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, and the
Fairs on the 5th of March, 13th of May, 28th of June, 19th of
August, 24th of September, and 11th of November. Pwllheli
is a
safe and good harbour, as we before observed, and well sheltered
from all winds, but a Perch is much wanted at the extreme end of
the Gimlet Rock. This is one of the Contributory
Boroughs with Carnarvon, in returning one Member to Parliament;
it is a Corporate Town, and is governed by a Mayor, two Bailiffs,
and a Recorder. The Petty Sessions for the District are
held here. An Embankment has been made within these few
years, on both sides of the Town, by which several hundred acres
have been recovered, the greatest part of which used to be
overflowed by the high tides. Pwllheli has as excellent
beach for Sea bathing, and is likely to become a place of resort
in the Summer season, for that purpose. The number of
inhabitants in 1811, was nearly thirteen hundred. The
Prince (says Leland) had a place here, as yet appeareth.
The distance from Pwllheli to Tremadoc is about 15 miles; the
first village on the road is Abererch, situated on the river
Erch, and partly in the Cwmwd (Commot) of Dinlleyn, Cantref of
Lleyn, and partly in the Cwmwd of Eifionydd, Cantref of
Dunodig. The Church is dedicated to Saint Cawrdaf; it is a
discharged Vicarage, valued in the King’s Books at
£6. Patron, the Bishop of Bangor. The number of
inhabitants, in 1811, was about 1100. In this Church was
buried Sir Thomas Pulesten, a distinguished favorite of Edward
1st. who was killed in 1282.—The next Parish is Llanarmon, the
Church is dedicated to St. Garmon. At Plas Du in this
Parish, was born that celebrated Epigrammatist, John Owen; this
place gave birth also to the Rev. John Evans, S. Th. P. Bishop of
Bangor, in 1715, and afterwards of Meath, in Ireland.—On
the road to Carnarvon is Trallwyn, the seat of J. E. Lloyd, Esq.
and not far distant, Glasfryn, Rev. Thomas Ellis; as we proceed,
pass, on the left, Hendre, Rev. Thomas Roberts, and pretty near
it Werglodd fawr, R. Jones, Esq. After passing the junction
of the Pwllheli and Nevin Roads, soon reach Llanystumdwy, a
Church and Village, situated near a river, in a well-sheltered
little Vale, beautifully wooded; the Church is dedicated to St.
John the Baptist.—Near this place are a great number of
gentlemen’s seats: Plas Hen, now the property of Sir Thomas
Mostyn, Bart. once the seat of Evan Lloyd Vaughan, Esq. by
marriage with an heiress of the name of Vaughan, a descendant of
Collwyn ap Tangno; she afterwards married William Lloyd, a
younger son of Bod-Idris: this William Lloyd was Sheriff in 1648,
and was killed in a skirmish near Bangor, by Sir John Owen.
Near it is Gwynfryn, late the property of David Ellis Nanney,
Esq. Attorney-General on this Circuit, now the residence of his
nephew, O. J. E. Nanney, Esq.; a little nearer Crickaeth, to the
left of the road, is Trefan, late the property of Rev. Z. Hughes,
now the seat of Mrs. Priestley.—To these may be added
Sgubor Hen, Aberkin, Ty Newydd, Rev. J. Kyffin; Mynydd Ednyfed,
Rev. Mr. Jones, Rector of Crickaeth; and Brynhir, now
unoccupied. In this neighbourhood are the ruins of a small
Chanel, called Bettws; and not far distant is Chwilog, an old
House, which formerly belonged to the ancestors of Sir Howell y
Fwyall, our celebrated Countryman, who attended the Black Prince
to the Battle of Poitiers, and, according to our Welsh
Bards, was the person who took the French King prisoner, though
that honor is generally bestowed on Denis de Morebeque, a
Knight of Artois.—Our brave countryman, however,
undoubtedly behaved on the occasion with distinguished valour,
for the Black Prince not only bestowed on him the Constableship
of Crickaeth Castle, which he afterwards made his residence, but
Knighted him, and in perpetual memorial of his good services,
ordered, that from thenceforth, a mess of meat should be served
up before the pole-axe, with which he performed such great feats;
for that reason he bore it in his Coat of Arms, and was styled
(as before-mentioned) Syr Howel y Fwyall, or of the
Axe. After the Mess had appeared before the Knight,
it was carried down and bestowed on the poor; Eight Yeomen
attendants were constituted to guard the Mess, and had
eight-pence a day, constant wages, at the King’s charge; and these, under the name of
Yeomen of the Crown, were continued on the establishment till the
Reign of Queen Elizabeth, and it is supposed by many that the
Yeomen of the Crown are indebted to these for their origin.
After the death of Sir Howel, the Mess was carried as before, and
bestowed on the poor, for the sake of his soul, in the
time of Popery, and probably as low as the period
above-mentioned.—Sir John Wynne, in his History of the
Gwydir family; informs us that this Sir Howel was also Constable
of Chester Castle, and had also Dwyfor, and others, the
King’s Mills, to farm, and a grant of the Weirs and
Fisheries on this Coast, besides many other offices of great
trust and profit.
Crickaeth Cattle is situated on conical rock, jutting far into
the sea, and the Isthmus crossed, by way of defence, by two deep
ditches; on each side of the entrance is a great round Tower; the
Court is of an irregular form, and has the remains of a square
Tower, beyond is another Court, and in it, on the verge of the
rock, are two others, also square. It is probable that all
the Towers were originally square, for the insides of the two
round Towers are of that form; they have so much the appearance
of the Architecture of Dolyddelen Castle, that it is probable
this Castle was founded by a Welsh Prince, and that Edward the
First did no more than case the Towers, which at present are the two
rounders; after the conquest, Edward appointed William de
Leybourne to be Constable, with a Salary of One Hundred Pounds a
year, for which he was to maintain a garrison of 30 men, one
Chaplain, one Surgeon, one Carpenter, and one Mason.
On our way to Penmorva and Tremadoc, pass by Stumllyn,
formerly the seat of the Wynnes, now the property of —
Jones, Esq. of Machynlleth. Several Antiquities are
scattered over this part of the County; near Dolbenmaen, is a
large Mount, on which might have been, as Mr. Rowlands
conjectures, a Watch Tower. Near Ystum Cegid are three
Cromlechs, joining to each other, possibly memorials of
three Chieftains slain on the spot. And near
Clenenney, on Bwlch Craig Wenn, is a fine Druidical
Circle, consisting, at present, of thirty-eight stones; at a
mile’s distance and within sight of this, above
Penmorva, is another. On Llysdin Farm, were lately
discovered, some small Urns, containing human bones and
ashes. Not far distant from hence, in the Parish of
Llanfihangel y Pennant, is Brynkir,
once the seat of a family of that name, now the property of J.
Huddart, Esq. at present Sheriff for this County; Lord Lyttleton,
whose Letters from Wales are well known, and were published at
the end of Bingley’s first Tour, remained here for several
days, on a visit to one of the Brynkirs, and during his stay
ascended Moel Hedog, which divides this Country from the Vale of
Bethgelert. The present proprietor has built a new house here, and
made other great improvements.
In remote days, this part of Eifionydd was possessed by two
Clans, one descended from Owen Gwywedd, Prince of North
Wales, and consisted of the houses of Cessail Gyfarch,
Ystum Cegid Clenenney, Brynker and Glasfryn,
or Cwmystrallyn; the other was derived from Collwyn ap
Tangno, and consisted of the houses of Chwilog,
Bron y Foel, Berkin, Gwynfryn, Tal Hen
bont, (now Plas Hen) and Pennardd.—The feuds of
these two parties filled the land with blood. The history
of our Country, during that period, is the History of revenge,
perfidy, and slaughter. This consideration induced
Meredith ap Jevan, ancestor of the Wynne’s of
Gwydir, to quit this his paternal country—“I had
rather,” says he, “fight with out-laws and thieves,
than with my own blood and kindred;—If I live in my own
house, in Efionydd, I must either kill my own kindred, or be
killed by them.” There was not a house in the
hundred, as Mr. Pennant observes, that had not its dreadful
tale,—they would quarrel, says Sir John Wynne, if it was
but for the mastery of the country, and the first good morrow;
John Owen ap John ap Meredydd, and Howel ap Madoc Vychan fell out
for no other reason: Howel and his people fought
valiantly,—when he fell, his mother placed her hand on his
head, to prevent the fatal blow, and had half her hand and three
of her fingers cut off by some of her nearest kindred. An attempt
was made to kill Howel ap Rhys, in his own house, by the sons of
John ap Meredith, for no other reason but that their servants had
quarrelled about a Fishery; they first set fire to the Mansion,
with great bundles of straw,—the besieged, terrified with
the flames, sheltered themselves under forms and benches, while
Rhys, the old Hero, stood, sword in
hand, reproaching his men with cowardice, and telling them he had
often seen a greater smoke in that Hall on Christmas-even.
These flagitious deeds seldom met with any other punishment than
what resulted from private revenge, and too often composition was
made for the most horrible murders. There was a
gwerth, or price of blood, from the slaughter of a King,
to the cutting off one of his subject’s little fingers.
The Village of Penmorva is situated in a nook, between some
high rocks, at the end of a tract of meadows, formerly subject to
the over-flowing of the higher tides, till an embankment was made
by W. A. Madocks, Esq. a gentleman to whom this part of the
County is greatly indebted for numerous and great improvements,
particularly for the erection of an embankment, about a mile in
length, in order to reclaim some thousand acres of land, and
which now forms a safe and convenient road between the Counties
of Carnarvon and Merionneth, across the Estuary of Traethmawr,
whereas formerly many lives were lost in going over
these dangerous sands. In the Church of Penmorva, which is
dedicated to St. Beuno, was interred that valiant Knight, Sir
John Owen, besides the monument to his memory, there is another
to Sir William Morris, of Clenenney, who died August 11,
1622. Tremadoc, a new Town, which bears the name of its
Founder, is about a mile distant from Penmorva, and contains from
Eighty to a Hundred Houses.—Here is a handsome new Church,
a Market-Place, a comfortable Inn, and a great number of good
Shops: near the Town are also several good Houses built by the
same Gentleman, particularly Tan yr Allt, Morva Lodge, &c.;
all of which, as well as every thing in and about this small
Town, evidently prove the individual who planned and conducted
the whole, to be a person of cultivated mind, improved taste, and
superior judgment and ability.—A Market has been
established here, and the Fairs which used to be at Penmorva on
the following days, March 6, May 14, August 20, September 25, and
November 12, have mostly deserted that place, and are held at
Tremadoc.—Here is an excellent Salmon Fishery—a good
shore for Bathing—and a safe Harbour for Vessels under 120
Tons burthen. It is greatly to be lamented, that the
beneficial improvements projected by the before-mentioned public
spirited Gentleman W. A. Madocks, Esq. and carried by him to such
a state of forwardness; should not be completed. In the Year
1625, Sir John Wynne, of Gwydir, conceived the great design of
gaining this immense track, (Traeth mawr) as well as the lesser
one, (Traeth bach) from the Sea, by means of an Embankment; and
for that purpose he implored the assistance of his illustrious
Countryman Sir Hugh Middleton, in a Letter which has been
preserved, and together with that Gentleman’s reply,
printed in Mr. Pennant’s Tour. A Bridge over Traeth
bach, and a new line of Road along the Sea Coast to Barmouth, and
a Stage Coach, or some other more regular mode of conveyance
between North and South Wales, particularly during the Summer
Months, are still left among the desiderata of this
portion of the Principality.
APPENDIX. — DEANS OF BANGOR , — VICARS OF BANGOR, — KING CHARLES LETTERS TO THE GENTLEMEN OF CAERNARVONSHIRE , [Copied from the original MSS.] — A CATALOGUE OF Some of the Rarer Plants WHICH GROW IN CAERNARVONSHIRE , WITH THE HABITATS OF THE MOST RARE. — The following are recommended as good Guides :
A
CATALOGUE
OF THE
RECTORIES, VICARAGES, AND
CHAPELS,
IN THE
County of Caernarvon;
WITH THEIR
DEDICATIONS, SAINT DAYS, AND PATRONS.
V. BANGOR,
|
St. Daniel
|
Dec. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Pentir, a. Capel
|
St. Cedol
|
Nov. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanddiniolen
|
St. Diniolen
|
Nov. 23
|
Lord Chancellor
|
C. Llanfair Isgaer
|
St. Mary
|
Sept. 8
|
Lord Newborough
|
C. Bettws Garmon
|
St. Garmon
|
July 31
|
Lord Newborough
|
V. Llanberis
|
St. Peris
|
June 26
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanrug
|
St. Michael
|
Sept. 29
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Llanwnda
|
St. Beuno
|
April 21
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llanfaglan
|
St. Baglan
|
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llandwrog
|
St. Twrog
|
June 26
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Llanbeblic
|
St. Peblic
|
July 4
|
Bishop of Chester
|
C. Carnarvon
|
St. Mary
|
Feb. 2
|
Bishop of Chester
|
R. Llanllyfni
|
St. Credyw
|
Nov. 11
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanaelhaiarn
|
St. Elhaiarn
|
Nov. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Clynnog
|
St. Beuno
|
April 21
|
Impropriation Jes. Col. Ox.
|
C. Llandegai
|
St. Tygai
|
June 16
|
Tithes appropriated to the Archdeacon of Bangor
|
C. Capel Curig
|
St. Curig
|
June 16
|
Tithes appropriated to the Archdeacon of Bangor
|
R. Llanllechid
|
St. Llechid
|
Dec. 2
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Aber
|
St. Bodvan
|
Jan. 2
|
Lord Newborough
|
R. Llanfair Vechan
|
St. Mary
|
Sept. 8
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Dwygyfylche
|
St. Gwnning
|
Jan. 31
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Conway
|
|
|
Lord Viscount Bulkeley
|
R. Gyffin
|
St. Benedict
|
March 22
|
Ap. to Deanery of Bangor
|
R. Llangelynin
|
St. Celynin
|
Nov. 2
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanbedr
|
St. Peter
|
June 29
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Caerhun
|
St. Mary
|
Sept. 8
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Trefryw
|
St. Mary
|
Sept. 8
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llanrhychwyn
|
St. Rhychwyn
|
June 10
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
C. Bettws y Coed
|
St. Michael
|
Sept. 29
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
C. Dolwyddelen
|
St. Gwyddeien
|
Aug. 22
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
V. Llandudno
|
St. Tudno
|
June 5
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
V. Penmachno
|
St. Tudclyd
|
May 30
|
Sir R. W. Vaughan, Bart.
|
R. Aberdaron
V. Aberdaron
|
St. Howyn
|
Jan. 6
|
St. John’s College, Cambridge
|
C.
Llanvaelrhys
|
St. Maelrhys
|
Jan. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Rhyw
|
St. Elrhyw
|
Sept. 9
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llandudwen
|
St. Tudwen
|
Oct. 27
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Mellteyrn
|
St. Peter
|
Aug. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Bottwnog
|
St. Beuno
|
April 29
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llan Engan
|
St. Engan
|
Feb. 9
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Llangwynodl
|
St. Gwynodl
|
Jan. 1
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Tydweiliog
|
St. Gwyfan
|
June 3
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanbedrog
|
St. Pedroc
|
June 4
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llangian
|
St. Peris
|
Dec. 11
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llanfihangel
|
St. Michael
|
Sept. 29
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Bodean
|
St. Buan
|
Aug. 9
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
V. Nevin
|
St. Mary
|
Aug. 15
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Edern
|
St. Edern
|
Dec. 2
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Pistill
|
St. Beuno
|
April 21
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Carnguwch
|
St. Beuno
|
April 21
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llannor
|
St. Beuno
|
Sept. 14
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
C. Pwllhely
|
St. Beuno
|
April 21
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Bangor
|
V. Abererch
|
St. Courda
|
Dec. 5
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Penrhos
|
St. Cynfil
|
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llanjestin
|
St. Jestin
|
Oct. 10
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Penllech
|
St. Mary
|
Aug. 5
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Bodveryn
|
St. Meryn
|
Jan. 6
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Llandegwnning
|
St. Gwnning
|
Dec. 31
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
C. Ceidio
|
St. Ceidiaw
|
Nov. 2
|
W. Bodvil, Esq.
|
R. Penmorfa
|
St. Beano
|
April 21
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Crickieth
|
St. Catherine
|
Nov. 25
|
Bishop of Bangor
|
R. Llangybi
|
St. Cybi
|
Nov. 5
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Merionethsh.
|
C. Llanarmon
|
St. Garmon
|
July 1
|
Appropriated to the Archdeaconry of Merionethsh.
|
About the year 525, Daniel ap Dunawd, Abbot of Bangor Is Coed,
in Flintshire, built a College in Caernarvonshire, for the
instruction of youth and support of the Clergy of this part of
North Wales; and probably designed it as a Cell, or member of the
other Bangor, and continued so till Prince Maelgwn, or Maelgwyn
Gwynedd, a wicked Prince in his youth, but reformed in his
advanced age, among other works of Piety, created this College
into a Bishoprick, and Archbishop Dubricius, or Dyfrig,
consecrated the said Daniel Bishop thereof, about the year 550;
and about four years after, he died, December 10, and was buried
at Bardsey, or Enlli. There is but a very slender account
of Daniel’s successors till after the Conquest; from which
time there seems to be a regular succession of Prelates in this
See, though by reason of the wars, they had not all of them a
quiet enjoyment. The Revenues of this Bishoprick were
valued 25th Henry VIII. at £151 3s. 8d.; the
clear value £134 16s. 4d. The next
account is, that according to Bede, there was a Bishop here, St.
Awstin the Monk, who is called Ellodu, Anno Dom. 601.
However, Elbodius was certainly Bishop of North Wales, and died,
as some say, A.D. 806, others 811. There is no account who
succeeded him. Gildas Cambrensis dedicated his Book to a
Bishop of Venetia; he flourished A.D. 860. Mordaf is
mentioned by Wynne to have gone to Rome about the year 940; about
the confirmation of Howel Dda’s Laws.
Hervey, surnamed Cruste, was consecrated Bishop of Bangor,
between the years 1089 and 1093, by Thomas, Archbishop of York;
and so continued for 15 or 16 years; but using too great
severity, he was very ill liked by the Welsh, who at last
murdered his Brother, and threatened to do the same with him,
whereupon he retired into England, to Henry I. for protection,
who assigned him the Abbey of Ely, which he got converted into a
Bishoprick, and quitted Bangor A.D. 1109, and died at Ely 1131,
where he was buried.
Urban, bishop of Landaff, governed this see, and took the care
thereof upon him, probably till 1119, when he began to be fully
occupied in looking after his charge in Landaff, and rebuilding
his church.
David, a Scot, was consecrated April 4, 1120, in which year he
consented to the translation of the reliques of St. Dubricius to
Landaff, out of his own Diocese, at the request of Bishop Urban;
he is mentioned 1127, and his successor was
Meuruc, or Maurice, consecrated A.D. 1139: he was presented to
the Archdeaconry by Bishop David, and at first refused taking the
oath to the King of England, though afterwards he was with some
difficulty persuaded to it; he died A.D. 1161, and was succeeded
by
William Priors, of St. Austin’s, Bristol, A.D. 1162, a
very religious and pious man; who was succeeded by
Guy Rufus, Monk of Walham, in the County of Essex, who was
consecrated at Ambrosebury, in July 1177; in the year 1188, he
accompanied Baldwyn, Archbishop of Canterbury, in his progress
through Wales, and died about two years after, 1190: he was
succeeded by
Giraldus Cambrensis, who was elected to the See in 1190, but
he refused to accept of it then; so it continued vacant till the
election of
Alban, or Albanus, Prior of St. John’s, Jerusalem,
consecrated April 16, 1195: he died the year following, and was
succeeded by
Robert, of Shrewsbury, who was consecrated the 18th of
March. He died in 1213, and was buried by his own
appointment in the Market-place at Shrewsbury; after his death
the See became vacant for two years, when
Martin, Abbot of Albaland, was consecrated June 16, 1215; he
sat but a little time, for in the same year we find
Cadwgan, who, as Brown Willis says, is the same with
Martin, the one being the name he was known by in England, and
the other his original Welsh name; Godwin, says he was Abbot of
Llandefid, and being released from his Episcopal charge A.D.
1236, he retired to the Abbey of Dover, in the County of
Hereford, and became a Monk, giving the Convent all his goods: he
died in 1241, on the 11th of April, and was buried there.
Howel’s Cong’ d‘Elire, is dated June 7,
1236: he dedicated a Monastry built by Llywelyn Prince of Wales,
at Llanfaes, in Anglesey; over the grave of Joan his wife,
daughter of John, King of England, whose pleasure it was to be
buried there.
Richard succeeded, and was consecrated A.D. 1240, or rather
1238 or 1237; because in his Letter to the Pope to resign his
Bishoprick, which was about 1268, he pleads his having been
Bishop 30 years and upwards.
Anian, Archdeacon of Anglesey, succeeded Richard, and had the
Temporalities restored Dec. 12, 1268. He is reported to
have held a synod 1291, at St. Mary’s, de Garth Brannan,
the ancient Parish Church of Bangor: he also christened Edward
II. in Caernarvon Castle, April 25, 1284.
Cadwgan succeeded Asian in 1306; he enjoyed it but a short
time, for we meet with the consecration of
Griffith ap Iorwerth, on March 26, 1307, on whose death, which
happened 1309
Anian Sais, was elected Bishop Sep. 18, 1309, and consecrated
Nov. 9th following; he died Jan. 20, 1327.
Matthew de Englefield, Son of Iorwerth ap Ririd, Archdeacon of
Anglesey, aged 40, succeeded, being elected Feb. 25, 1327,
confirmed April 25, and consecrated June 12, 1328: he granted
Bangor a Charter to keep a Fair on St. Luke’s Day: he died
April 25, 1357.
Thomas de Ringstead, S. S. T. P. of Oxford, a Dominican,
succeeded, being nominated by the Pope, consecrated Aug. 27,
received the Spiritualities Nov. 1357; he died at the Grey Friers
in Shrewsbury, and was buried at Huntingdon, he is said to have
given £100 for the repairs of this Cathedral.
Gervase de Castro, (probably the same with Gervase Fitz David,
who occurs Archdeacon A.D. 1351) Canon of Bangor, a Dominican,
succeeded Dec. 11, 1366; received the Spiritualities Feb. 17th
following, and died Sep. 1370.
Howel ap Grono, Dean of this Church, seems to have succeeded
April 16, 1371; he received the Spiritualities July 31, 1371, and
going to settle matters to Rome, he died there, as Brown Willis
says, in Curia Romana.
John
Gilbert, a Friar preacher, succeeded March 17, 1371, received the
Spiritualities July 16, 1372; and the 16th of November following
made his profession of obedience to the See of Canterbury Sep.
12, 1375; he was translated to Hereford, and afterward to St.
David’s; he died in London, July 28, 1397.
John Swafham, S. Th. P. of Cambridge, a Carmelite of Lynn, in
the County of Norfolk, Bishop of Cloyne in Ireland, A.D. 1363,
was translated to this See July 2, 1376. There was a
Charter granted him in 1387, about appropriating Llan Ynys, and
Llan Fair, to the repair of the Church, and support of four
Chaplains, to officiate in the Choir: he continued Bishop till
1394, and so no doubt till the election of
Richard Young, L.L.D. Oct. 21, 1399, or May 20, 1400, who had
the Temporalities restored in 1404. He was translated to
Rochester, where he died.
Benedict Nicholas, called also Nicholas Bennett, Rector of
Stapleland, in the County of Wilts, and of Conyngton, in the
County of Huntington, which he resigned A.D. 1417, he received
the Temporalities July 22, at the request of Arundel, Archbishop
of Canterbury, and the Spiritualities, Aug. 10th following: he
was afterwards removed to St. David’s, Dec. 15, 1417,
whereby room was made for
William Barrow, L.L.D. Chancellor of Oxford 1414 and 1415;
Canon of Lincoln, nominated by the Pope, Feb. 16, 1418; made his
profession of obedience April 16, 1418; and received the
temporalities June the 5th following; about June 1423, he was
translated to Carlisle, and succeeded by
John Clederow, who received the temporalities Jan. 15, 1424,
and March 30th he made profession of obedience. His Will
bears date March 30, 1434; he died Dec. 12, 1435, and was buried
at Crayford.
Thomas Cheryton, of the order of Friars Preachers, obtained
Licence of consecration Nov. 26, 1436, and died about Dec. 1448,
when he was succeeded by
John Stanbery, the most learned Carmelite of his time,
nominated by the Pope March 4, 1448; he had before been appointed
to Norwich, but the Duke of Suffolk obtained it for his chaplain,
he was of the University of Oxford, and greatly in favour with
Henry VI. and was appointed by him Provost of his College of
Eaton; and also translated to Hereford 1452; he left in his will
dated Feb. 25, 1472, a legacy of £30, to repair the Church
of Bangor, that was burnt in the troubles of Owen Glyndwr: he
died at Hereford, and was succeeded by
James Blackdon, Bishop of Achad or Achonry in Ireland, and also
suffragan to Bishop Beckington, Wells, which he resigned on his
translation to Bangor, the Temporalities whereof were restored to
him March 26, 1452. The Bull of his translation is dated
Feb. 7, 1452; he was also Master of St. Catherine’s
Hospital: he died Oct. 24, 1464, and was succeeded by
Richard Evynden, S. T. P. Dean of Stoke Clare, in Suffolk, of
the order of Friars Minors; who obtained licence of consecration
March 18, 1464. In 1468 he represented to the Pope that
this Bishoprick was not worth £100 per annum, and so
obtained leave to hold other preferments in commendam, by the
Pope’s Diploma, granting that whoever had this See should
hold some other commendam; as the headship of some Abbey,
&c. He died 1496, and was succeeded by
Henry Dean, or Dennys, an Oxford man, Prior of Lanthony, near
Gloucester, who had the Temporalities restored as appears by the
patent, Oct. 6. 1496. He was a very eminent man, and a
great benefactor to the church; he was Chancellor of Ireland and
Lord chief Justice 1495, in which office he acted with so much
diligence, that the pretended Duke of York was expelled by his
means out of the kingdom. He began to re-build this Church
and Palace, which had lain in ruins for near one hundred years;
but before he had completed the choir, he was in March 22, 1500
translated to Salisbury.
Thomas Pigott, born in Denbighshire, Abbot of Chertsey, and
L.L.B. of the University of Oxford, succeeded him; some of his
leases to Bangor, are dated at Chertsey, where in all probability
he died Aug. 15. 1504.
John Perry, L.L.D. Abbot of Leicester and Prior of Bradley,
succeeded Aug. 30, 1505. He held his Abbacy, in
commendam until he became translated to Carlisle, he was
buried at St. Margaret’s in Leicester.
Thomas Pace, alias Skevington or Sheffington, who was born at
Skevington in Leicestershire, succeeded March 7, 1508. He
was brought up at Merisale, Warwick, where he first became a
professed Monk, and went from thence for further instruction to
Bernard, (now St. John’s) College, Oxford; he afterwards
became Abbot of Waverley and Beauley, in the County of
Northampton; which last he held in commendam with this
See, till his death, and resided mostly there and at London; yet
notwithstanding this, he became a very generous benefactor, by
rebuilding the Episcopal Palace, on the porch of which is this
inscription still remaining over the door; “Thomas
Skevington, Epis. Bangor fecit.” and also the Cathedral
Church, as we have noticed in another place, he died about the
year 1533, and was succeeded by
John Salcot, alias Capon, S. T. P. of the University of
Cambridge, Abbot of Holm, in the County of Norfolk, and
afterwards of Hyde, in the County of Southampton; a very forward
person in soliciting King Henry VIII’s divorce; by virtue
of which he became elected Bishop of this See, Jan. 30, and was
consecrated April 19, 1534. He was afterwards translated to
Salisbury, where he died.
Joh Bird, S. T. P. of Oxford, provincial of the order of
Carmelites’ Convent at Coventry, and Bishop of Penruth, was
elected July 24, 1539, had the royal assent Sep. 1, confirmed
Sep. 18, and had the temporalities restored Sep. 19th
following. In 1535 he waited on Bishop Bonner, at Fulham,
and brought him a dish of apples and a bottle of wine, and was
presented by Bonner to Dunmow living, for a maintenance. In
Aug. 1541, be was made the first Bishop of Chester, on the new
erection of that See, by King Henry VIII. and was succeeded as
Bishop of Bangor by
Arthur Bulkeley, L.L.D. educated at New Inn Hall, Oxford, who
was confirmed Dec. 20. 1541, and consecrated Feb. 1541–2;
his first preferment was the Rectory of Llan Ddeusant, in the
county of Anglesey, to which he was instituted Aug. 18, 1525, and
soon after was made canon of St. Asaph; on Aug. 8, 1537, he was
made prebend of Clynnog Fechan; and July 15, 1538, admitted
Rector of St. James’s, Garlick-hithe, in London, at the
presentation of the convent of Westminster, which he quitted Nov.
8, 1544. He died March 14, 1552, and was buried in his own
cathedral, in the place where Bishop Skevington’s heart was
deposited; after his death the See continued vacant till the
consecration of
William Glynn, born at a place called Glynn, in the commot of
Malltraeth, and parish of Hen Eglwys, Anglesey; he was master of
Queen Ann’s college Cambridge. In 1549 he was
presented to St. Martins Le Grand, in London, and made Rector of
Hen Eglwys Feb. 3, 1551, and consecrated Bishop of Bangor Sep. 8,
1555. He died May 21, 1558, and was buried in the Choir of
his own cathedral, in the 54th year of his age.
Maurice Clennock, L.L.B. a native of Caernarvonshire,
Prebendary of York, was nominated to succeed, by Queen Mary, but
he died before his consecration was completed. The
Bishoprick was next conferred on
Rowland Meyrick, L.L.D. chancellor of St. David’s, and
sometime of Wells, and Principal of New Inn Hall, Oxford, born at
Bodorgan, in the Parish of Llancadwaladr, Anglesey, who was
elected Bishop Dec. 1, 1559. He was at first Rector of
Stoke, by Neyland, in the county of Norfolk, and was Precentor of
Llan Ddewi Brefi, in the year 1549. He died Sep. 25, 1565,
and was buried in his own cathedral, on the south side of the
communion table, under the east wall, with an inscription now
lost.
Nicholas Robinson, S. Th. P. born at Conway in the county of
Carnarvon; Fellow of Queen’s college Cambridge, and
chaplain to Archbishop Parker, on March 3, 1556, he was made Dean
of Bangor, and in 1562 Archdeacon of Merioneth and Rector of
Northop; confirmed Bishop Oct. 6, 1566, with leave to hold the
Rectory of Whitney, in the county of Oxford, in
commendam. He died Feb. 3, 1584–5, and was buried
in his own cathedral, with an inscription on a slate which is
effaced, with the exception of these words, “Hic Jacet
Nicholas Robinson,” and his successor was
Hugh Bellot. S. T. P. fellow of St. John’s college
Cambridge, Vicar of Gresford, and as supposed of Wrexham; elected
Bishop Dec. 3, 1585, confirmed Jan. 25th; he was translated to
Chester 1595, where he died, after he had sat a few months, and
was buried at Wrexham, aged 54 years.
Richard Vaughan, born at Nyffryn, in Lleyn, Carnarvonshire,
educated at St. John’s college Cambridge; Archdeacon of
Middlesex and Canon of Wells; elected Bishop Nov. 22, had the
Temporalities restored March 5, 1595–6: on the 23rd of
April 1597, he was translated to Chester, and thence to London,
where he died, and lies buried.
Henry Rowlands, S. T. P. of New college Oxford, born at Plas
Myllteyrn, in the Parish of Meyllteyrne, Carnarvonshire, of which
he became Rector in 1572, afterwards of Naunton in Oxfordshire in
1581, he was made Rector of Aberdaron in Lleyn, 1584 Prebendary
of Penmynydd, Anglesey, and Dean of Bangor in 1593. His
Conge d‘Elire is dated Aug. 22. During his time, he
became a most munificent benefactor to his cathedral, by
purchasing four (or according to Goodwin five) bells, and also by
new roofing the cathedral; he also founded two fellowships at
Jesus college, Oxford; an hospital for six poor men at Bangor,
and a Tree school at Bottwnog, being a chapel belonging to
Myllteyrn. He died July 6, 1616, and was buried in his own
cathedral.
Lewis Bayly, S. T. P. born in Caernarvonshire, chaplain to
Prince Henry, and Rector of St. Matthew, Friday Street, London;
elected Bishop Aug. 28, 1616. He was a married man, and
left behind him four sons, some say he was the author of the
“Practice of Piety.” He died Oct. 3, 1631, and was
buried in his own cathedral, in Bishop Meyrick’s grave, he
was succeeded by
David Dolben, S. T. P. born at Segrwd near Denbigh Prebend of
Vaenol in the church of St. Asaph, which he held in
commendam with his Bishoprick, to which he was elected Nov.
8, 1631. He was a great benefactor to this See, and was
descended from an ancient family in Denbighshire. He died
unmarried, Nov. 27, 1633, at the palace belonging to his See, in
St. Andrews, Holborn, London, and was buried in the church of
Hackney, aged 52.
Edmund Griffith, S. T. P. born at Cefn Amwlch,
Caernarvonshire, in 1570, succeeded David Dolben, having been
elected Dec. 31, 1633: he was canon July 5, 1600: he was
preferred to the Rectory of Llanbedrog in the county of
Caernarvon, Dec. 10, 1604; and Dean of Bangor Sep. 9, 1613.
He died May 26, 1637, and was buried in his own cathedral.
William Roberts, Sub-Dean of Wells, and Archdeacon of
Anglesey, was consecrated in Sep. 1637, and had the Temporalities
restored during the great rebellion; he suffered much on account
of his loyalty, however he had the happiness to live to be
restored in 1660. He gave by Will £100 towards
adorning and beautifying Bangor choir; and £100 to
Queen’s college Cambridge, for maintaining an exhibition
for a poor Scholar of the diocese of Bangor, with several other
bequests.
Robert Price, S. T. P. Bishop of Fern, in Ireland; son of
Colonel Price, of Rhiwlas, in the county of Merioneth, was
nominated to succeed; but dying in Ireland, before his election
was completed, he made room for
Robert Morgan, born at Bronfraith, in the county of
Montgomery; chaplain to Bishop Dolben; he suffered much in the
rebellion, prior to his nomination, which took place June 8,
1666. He died Sep. 1673, aged 95, and was succeeded by
Humphrey Lloyd, S. T. P. born at Trawsfynydd, in the county of
Merioneth; he was confirmed Nov. 8, and consecrated Nov. 16,
1673. In 1685 he procured the Archdeaconries of Bangor and
Anglesey, and the sinecure of Llanrhaiadr, to be annexed to the
Bishoprick of Bangor for ever, by Act of Parliament; and
two-thirds of both the comportions of Llandinam, to be settled
for the support of the fabrick of the cathedral, and the other
third for the maintenance of the Vicars of Llandinam. He
also new-cast the four bells given by Bishop Rowlands, and added
a fifth bell, bigger than any of the former, all at his own
charge: and dying Jan. 18, 1688, was buried in Bishop Rowland’s
grave, aged 78, and was succeeded by
Humphrey Humphreys, Dean of Bangor, consecrated Bishop of this
See June 30, 1689. In 1701 he was translated to Hereford,
where he died, and was buried in that cathedral. He was
succeeded by
John Evans, S. Th. P. born at Plas du, in the Parish of
Llanarmon, Carnarvonshire: consecrated Jan. 4, 1701. In the
year 1715, he was translated to Meath in Ireland, and was
succeeded at Bangor by
Benjamin Hoadley, D.D. (first English Bishop since the
reformation) was confirmed March 27, 1715, and consecrated the
next day. In the year 1721, he was translated to Hereford;
in 1723, to Salisbury; and in 1734, to Winchester, and was
succeeded at Bangor by
Richard Reynolds, L.L.D. consecrated Dec. 3, 1721, and in 1723
translated to Lincoln, where he died 1744, and was succeeded in
this See by
William Baker, S. Th. P. consecrated Aug. 1, 1723, and in 1727
he was translated to Norwich, where he died, and was succeeded
by
Thomas Sherlock, S. Th. P. consecrated Feb. 4, 1727, a very
learned man and an eminent preacher; he was translated to
Salisbury, and in 1748 to London.
Charles Cecil, L.L.D. Bishop of Bristol, was appointed to
succeed him Sep. 24, 1734; he began to repair the Bishop’s
Palace at Bangor, but dying in May 1737 of the Gout in his
Stomach; he was succeeded by
Thomas Herring, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester; elected Aug.
1737. In 1749 he was translated to York; and in 1749, on
the decease of Archbishop Potter, to Canterbury, where he died in
1757, and was succeeded at Bangor, as well as in all his
preferments, by
Matthew Hutton, S. Th. P. who was consecrated 1743. He
succeeded Archbishop Herring in the See of York, and upon his
decease to that of Canterbury, where he died the year
following.
Zachary Pearce, S. Th. P. Dean of Rochester, afterwards of
Winchester, succeeded in 1747, which he resigned in 1756, upon
his translation to Rochester, where he died in 1778, and was
succeeded at Bangor by
John Egerton, L.L.D. Dean of Hereford, of which See his father
was Bishop, who was brother to Scroop Egerton, first Duke of
Bridgewater; in 1769 he was translated to Litchfield and
Coventry, and from thence to Durham, when he was succeeded by
John
Ewer, S. Th. P. Bishop of Landaff, Chaplain to the Duke of
Rutland, and Canon of Windsor; he dying in 1775, was succeeded
he
John Moore, S. Th. P. Dean of Canterbury, and Chaplain to the
Duke of Marlborough. He afterwards became Archbishop of
Canterbury; when
Jean Warren, in 1784, was consecrated to the See; who was
succeeded by
William Cleaver Bishop of Chester, who removed to St. Asaph,
in 1806.
Dr. Randolph, Bishop of Oxford, succeeded, and them
Dr. Majendie, now Bishop.
|
|
Iago ap Beli, circiter, A.D. 603.
|
|
|
Arthur de Bardesey, circiter, 1162.
|
|
|
Adams, occurs as Dean in 1278, being a witness to a
composition between the Bishop of Bangor, and Lord Grey, of
Dyffryn Clwyd
|
|
|
Kynddelw, circiter, 1286
|
|
|
Williams, occurs in the taxation of Pope Nicholas,
1291
|
|
|
Anian Sais, afterwards Bishop of Bangor
|
|
|
Adam, circiter, 1327
|
|
|
Elias fil. Kenrick, occurs as witness to an Inspeximus
Charter in 1353
|
|
1359
|
Howel ap Gronow, afterwards Bishop of Bangor
|
|
|
John, occurs in the Lambeth Register, in 1371
|
|
|
David Daron, an adherent to Owen Glyndwr; outlawed in
1406. He was son of Evan ap Davydd ap Gr. a descendant of
Caradog ap Iestin, a Prince of Wales. His name frequently
occurs in a Dockett Roll at the Prothonatory’s Office,
Caernarvon.
|
|
|
William Pollard, an Englishman, was appointed to succeed
D. Daron, but never obtained possession
|
May 5,
|
1410
|
Henry Honore, p. c. W. P. He exchanged with
his predecessor for the Vicarage of New Church, Kent
|
June 9,
|
1413
|
Roger Wadhele, Cler. p. m. H. H.
|
Sep. 21,
|
1416
|
John Vantort, p. c. R. W. He exchanged with his
Predecessor, for the Rectory of St. Mary, ad muras
Colchester
|
|
|
Nigelles Bondeby, circiter, 1436
|
|
|
John Martyn, circiter, 1445
|
|
|
Hugh Alcock, circiter 1460. His house at Bangor, now
called “Plas Alcock”
|
|
|
Hugh Morgan, circiter, 1468, son of Davydd ap Rees, of
Presaddfed
|
|
|
Nicholas Rewys, circiter, 1474
|
|
1480
|
Richard Kyffin, L.L.B. Rector of Llanddwyn. He was
instrumental in promoting Henry VII. to the throne of
England. His grave stone is still to be seen at Bangor
|
|
1504
|
Richard Cowland, S. T. P.
|
|
|
John Glynn, L.L.B. of Hen eglwys, circiter 1508.
His will is presented among the archieves at the Palace in
Bangor
|
Dec. 12,
|
1534
|
Robert Evans, L.L.B. p. m. J. G. he was deprived of all
his preferments in 1554, for being married
|
|
1554
|
Rhese Powel, p. dep. R. E. conjugat
|
Oct. 27,
|
1557
|
Robert Evans, B.D. re-instituted
|
Sep. 26,
|
1570
|
Roland Thomas, L.L.D. p. m. R. E. a native of Anglesey,
Fellow of Magdalen College Cambridge. His will is preserved
at the Deanery of Bangor, in which he bequeathes some lands for
charitable purposes
|
June 22,
|
1588
|
Bishop Bellot, in commendam
|
Aug. 29,
|
1593
|
Henry Rowlands, B.D. p. c. Epi. afterwards Bishop of
Bangor
|
April 11,
|
1599
|
Richard Parry, D.D. p. c. H. R. afterwards Bishop of St.
Asaph
|
May 8,
|
1605
|
John Williams, D.D. p. c. R. P. Principal of Jesus
College, Oxford, &c.
|
Sep. 9,
|
1613
|
Edmund Griffith, B.D. p. m. J. W. afterwards Bishop of
Bangor
|
March 28,
|
1634
|
Griffith Williams, D.D. p. c. E. G. a native of
Llanrug. He was made Bishop of Ossory, and had the Rectory
of Llanllechid. He was a great sufferer during the
Usurpation
|
May 3,
|
1673
|
William Lloyd, D.D. p. m. G. W. afterwards Bishop of St.
Asaph
|
Dee. 16,
|
1680
|
Humphrey Humphreys, D.D. p. c. W. L. afterwards Bishop of
Bangor
|
Sep. 4,
|
1689
|
John Jones, D. D. p. c. H. H. of Plas gwyn, in the Parish
of Pentraeth. He held the Rectories of Llanllechid, Aber,
&c.
|
|
1727
|
Peter Maurice, A M. p m. J. J. of Maes mawr, new
Corwen
|
April 26,
|
1750
|
Hugh Hughes, A M. p m. P M. of Weeg, near Aber
|
Sep. 19,
|
1753
|
Thomas Lloyd, A M. p m. B H. of Bryn Adda, near
Dolgelley
|
Nov. 11,
|
1793
|
John Warren, A M. p m. T L
|
Vicaria, collationis Episcopi, cum Rectoria
Ecclesæ Parochialis Sii. Kedoll, alias Pentir,
unit: et annexa. Festa Dec. 1, &
Nov. 1.
|
1660
|
John Draycot, A. B. p. m. ullt. Vic. He was a son of
Thomas Draycot, principal Registrar of the Diocese, and held the
Rectory of Llanddeiniolen; the following inscription is upon his
grave, within the Cathedral, “Joh: Draicot, Vic. Bangor, et
Rect: Llanddeiniolen. Vir probus et pius, obiit Ap. 17,
1667.”
|
|
1688
|
John Buttred
|
June 17,
|
1691
|
Hugh Johnson, Cler. late Rector of Hen Eglwys. Upon
his grave-stone occurs the following inscription: “Hugh
Johnson, one of the Vicars of this Cath: Church, who dyed the 4th
Feb. 1694, aged 39”
|
Oct. 5,
|
1694
|
Pierce Lewis, A. M. late Rector of Llanfacbreth. He
held also the Rectory of Llanfairfechan.
|
May 15,
|
1699
|
Robert Humphreys, A.M. p.m. P.L. He lies
buried at Bangor, with the following Epitaph, “Roberti
Humphreys, A. M. hujus Ecclesiæ Vicarie Choralis, necnon
Parochi de Llanfairvechan Rectoris: Qui obitt 5 Cal. Sep. A.D.
1711, Ætat. 49”
|
Sep. 17,
|
1708
|
Henry Williams, A. M. Rector of Llanrug; afterwards
of Llanfaethle
|
July 28,
|
1712
|
Thomas Vincent, A. B. p. m. R. H. he resigned this for
Llan fachreth
|
June 2,
|
1713
|
Bulkeley Hughes, A. M. p. c. T. V. also Rector of
Edern
|
July 27,
|
1713
|
William Evans, A. M. p. c. H. W also Rector of Llangefni,
&c.
|
April 12,
|
1740
|
Thomas Lloyd, Cler. p. m. B. H. afterwards Dean of
Bangor
|
Nov. 12,
|
1744
|
Hugh Hughes, A. B. p. m. W. E. late Rector of Trefrhyw
|
March 12,
|
1749
|
John Ellis, L.L.B. p. m. H. H. Archdeacon of
Merion.
|
Dec. 7,
|
1753
|
William Lloyd, A. B. p. c. T. L. Precentor of
Bangor
|
Sept. 2,
|
1760
|
James Vincent, A. M. p. c. W. L. late master of Bangor
School, &c.
|
Sept. 21,
|
1773
|
Richard Griffith, A. M. p. c. J. V. master of Bangor
School, &c.
|
Dec. 5,
|
1785
|
John Kyffin, A. M. p. m. J. E. Rector of Trefdraeth
|
|
1790
|
Peter Williams, D. D. p. m. R. G. Rector of
Llanbedrog, &c.
|
|
1802
|
John Jones, A. M. p. c. P. W. Archdeacon of Mer.
&c.
|
|
1810
|
John Kyffin, p. c. J. K.
|
|
1810
|
James H. Cotton, L.L.B. p. c. J. K.
|
July 29,
|
1819
|
John Hamer, A. B. p. c. J. J.
|
Charles Rex,
Right truly and well-beloved, and trusty and
well-beloved—we greete you well. Whereas a Rebellion
being raysed against us, and forces marching toward us, we are
necessitated for the defence of our person and crowne, and the
religion and laws established, to call upon all our good subjects
to assist us; and whereas we are fully persuaded of the affection
and loyalty of that our countie, and of their readiness to assist
us, their King and Liedge Lord, in this our and their necessary
defence, according to their duty and alleagiance. These are
to will and require you for that, and with all possible speed, to
bring to Shrewsbury to our loyal Standard there to attend our
further directions, the trayned bands of that countie, as well
horses and foote, with such other volunteers, as your interest in
them and their owne affection shall persuade to come
with them. And if the necessary occasions of any of our
trayned bands shall withold them, that either themselves or
servants or other volunteers be admitted to serve in their
places, with their arms compleat, which trayned bands and
volunteers with these from other of our counties in our dominion
of Wales we intend to serve in our regiments for a guard for our
dearest Son the Prince, and receive them into our pay on their
arrival at Shrewsbury, whither we desire that our countie in this
our greate exigent to furnish them sufficient ammunition for
their journey, and money to bear their charges, which we shall
look upon as a great expression of affection and fidelity, and
shall at all tymes remember to their advantage, and we require
all our Justices of the Peace in that our countie to give their
assistance unto us herein and all our loving subjects of the same
to be obedient to your directions, in pursuance of these our
commands, and for soe doing this shall be to you and every of
them a sufficient warrant. Given at our Court at Darby this
15th day of September, 1642.
To the Sheriff and Commissioners
of Array, in the countie of Carnarvon
Charles Rex.
Right trusty and well-beloved, we greete you well,—We
have understood from the Gentlemen you sent to us, your loyal and
unanimous resolutions for the advancement of our service, and for
your sending to our standard two hundred armed soldiers, and
moneys for their conduct and maintenance, for which soe
considerable assistance as we return you hereby our royall
thanks, soe we must desire you to speede the sending hither of
those soldiers unto our standard, all that may be. And
least any disaffected to us and our service should presume to
oppose you in this work, we authorise and command you to use your
utmost power and endeavour to apprehend and bring in safe
custodie to us any one or more that shall appear in opposition or
disturbance of you herein. As alsoe for your more effectual
proceeding in this service, and for the security of our good
subjects in that our countie from intestine tumults and danger,
to make use of the magazin now remaining there, and of such
further power of the countie as to you shall seem meete upon all
occasions, for which these our letters shall be your sufficient
warrant. Given at our Court at Shrowsbury, the 28th day of
September, in the eighteenth year of our raigne, 1642.
To the Commissioners of
Array, of the countie of Carnarvon
Charles Rex.
Trusty and well-beloved, having great assurance of your
constant and well affections unto us in this time of iminent
danger, when our owne and our whole kingdom safety is concerned,
and being informed and satisfied how much you have expressed your
devotions to our service, We shall at all times bee ready to
remember your cheerefulness thereof, and not doubting of your
continuance to doe all things that may conduce to the furtherance
of our safety, we do hereby give you direction, that for such
moneys as you have or shall raise voluntarily within your countie
for our assistance this time, over and above what is for the
conducting of our owne trayned bands, you do paye the same unto
John Owen, of Cleneney, in our countie of Carnarvon, Esq. one of
our Colonells, who is thereby to be enabled to rayse a regiment
to bring his several companies to our standard. And for so
doing this shall be to you and every of you a sufficient
warrant.—Given at our Court at Chester, the five and
twentieth day of September, 1642.
To the Commissioners of
Array, in the countie of Carnarvon
Charles Rex.
Trusty and well beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we
have by our commission under our great seal, authorized and
intrusted our trustie and well-beloved Colonell John Owen to
raise in these parts, command, and unto our royal standard to
conduct one regiment of foote, for our special service, our will
and pleasure is, that you issue unto the said Colonell all such
moneys as by you have been for our use received out of the free
subscription or contribution of our good subjects of that our
countie, which money we have assigned him upon the account of the
said regiment, and for your soe doing this, together with his
acquittance acknowledging the receit thereof shall be your
sufficient warrant and discharge. Given under our sign
manuel at our Court at Shrewsbury this 28th day of September,
1642.
To our trustie and well-beloved
Sir Wm. Williams, Bart. and Humphrey Jones, Esq. of
the countie of Carnarvon
Charles Rex.
Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas
Rebellion is raysed against us and forces are marching towards
us, which hath already wrought a general distraction throughout
this our Realme, to the great disturbance and grievance of all
our good and well-affected subjects of whose wealth we
are as tender as of our owne; we are necessitated for the defence
of own person and of this kingdom and the religion and lawe
established, to use all expedient means for our assistance at
this time. And whereas we have received good testimony of
the good affections and forward zeale of our loving subjects in
the Principality of Wales, particularly in our countie of
Carnarvon, and of their readiness to serve us for the
preservation of the kingdom in this extremity, which we looke
upon as an expression of their great fidelity, and shall remember
it to their satisfaction, we shall not doubt of your willingness
to give obedience to our present directions thus sent to each of
you for what is in your power to perform for the furtherance of
the publique safety. We in confidence thereof doe hereby
will and require you, and every of you, that such publique moneys
as have been raysed or ought to have been payed for the safetie
and defence of the kingdome within our sayd countie of Carnarvon,
and do remayne in one or any of your hands, that you pay the same
unto the hands of John Owen of Cleneney, in our sayd countie,
Esq. one of the Colonells who is to bring a regiment of
volunteers, That thereby he may be enabled to raise his
companies, and to bring them unto our standard. And this
our warrant shall be his discharge unto you and every of you for
soe doing. And we further require that you do immediately
upon receit hereof, return severally answers in writing unto us,
when you and every of you shall be moved thereto, by the said
Colonell Owen or any on his behalf. Given at Wrexham, the
27th of September, 1642.
To our trustie and wel beloved
Sir W. Williams, Bart. Wm. Glynn, Owen Wynn,
T. Madryn, — Hookes, Arthur Williams,
— Griffith, Esq. and Commissioners of the Peace
for the countie of Carnarvon, &c.
Charles Rex.
Trustie and well-beloved, we greete you well. Whereas we
have lately signified our pleasure unto you that the following
contribution money of our countie of Carnarvon should be payed to
Collonell John Owen towards the charge of that Regiment, which he
was appointed by us to rayse. And we likewise directed our
letters to severall persons who had collected the publique moneys
of the same countie, which were collected for the defence of the
kingdome, that they should pave them towards the same charge as
beinge for the common defence of the whole kingdome.
Notwithstanding we understande noe parte of these moneys is payd
as we directed. And that Regiment which by our special
appointment is to march immediately is in danger to disband for
want
of present supplie which as it is much contrarie to our
expectation, who have always hitherto found the forwardness and
good affections of the countie toward our service, soe may tend
much to our deservice especially at this time, when we have
occasion to make tryall of the Loyalty and forwardness of all our
subjects, and the payment of those moneyes to the said Colonell
beinge more acceptable and of more service unto us, than if they
had been payd unto our owne hands, who must otherwise have sent
them towards the supplyinge of that Regiment. We doe desire
to have cause still to continue our gracious opinion of our
gracious opinion of our subjects of that countie. And we
are confident if we have not satisfaction herein, it is through
the coldness or disaffection of some particular persons who
prefer private ends before the publique. And therefore our
will is, that you use all possible diligence that we may have
satisfaction herein by speedy advance of the contribution
moneyes, and calling upon those who keepe the publique moneyes in
their hands, that they forthwith pay them to Colonell Owen, or
otherwise that you certifie unto us with all speed, by whose
meanes our service is so much disturbed, that we may knowe and
recompence such persons according to their desert. And for
that it much concerns our service that the forces raysed in that
countie should all march in one body, our will is, that those 500
armed men, which are by that countie to be sett forth for our
service, be joyned with the sayde Regiment and speedily march
with them towards us according to such directions as we have
given to the sayd Collonell Owen. Given at our Court at
Woodstock the 29th day of October, in the eighteenth year of our
Reigne.
To the Commissioners of
Array, &c.
Charles Rex.
Trusty and well-beloved we greet you well. Whereas we
have constituted and appointed our deerest sonne the Prince to be
our Lieutenant Generall in our counties of Worcester, Salop,
Chester and North Wales, and have appointed our right trusty and
well-beloved Arthur Lord Capell cheefe Commander of the same
under him, and whereas we have resolved to rayse in our said
counties a Regiment of fifteen hundred foote to be the liefe
guard of our said deerest Sonne. These are to will and
require you to make the same known to our good subjects of that
countie, and to take speedy and effectual order for the leavying
and arming of the said Regiment, according to our Commission in
that behalf granted to our trustie and welbeloved
Serjeant Major Woodhouse whom we have appointed to levy and
command them. Soe not doubting of your ready assistance
herein, we bid you heartily farewell. Given at our Court
att Oxford, the 18th day of March, 1642.
To the Commissioners of
Array, and Sheriff of Carnarvon
Charles Rex.
Trustye and well-beloved, we greet you well.—Whereas we
are informed, that you have diverse peeces of Artillery, which
may be of use and avayle to our citty of Worcester and towne of
Shrowsbury, if they shall be removed thither respectively, and
there mounted for the defence of those places. And being
further assured of your good affections to our person, and the
advancement of our service, we pray you (all private
communications being layd aside) to lend unto us your sayd
severall peeces of Artillery, with all their Appurtenances, to be
conveyed foorthwith unto, and employed in our sayd cittye and
towne, at the proper costs and charges of them respectively, as
alsoe, att their like charges, for the returne of the sayd peeces
of Artillery and their appurtenances home againe, att the end of
the service, unless in the interim it shall be agreed betweene
you and the sayd townes, to buy and sell the sayd peeces, for
such price and consideration as they can respectively accord for
them, or any of them. Of this service we desire you not to
fayle, being of much consequence to our affayres, and in
performance whereof, you shall do us a good pleasure, for which
these our letters shall be your warrant. Given under our
signett, at our Court at Oxford, the 31st December, 1642.
To John Griffith, Esq.
&c.
Charles Rex.
Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we
have entrusted and authorised our right trusty and welbeloved
Arthur Lord Capell to be our Lieutenant General of that and other
of our counties, and to provide for the security and preservation
thereof by the best ways and means he can devise. And
whereas it hath been thought requisite and necessary for the
purpose aforesaid to levy a competent number of foote and
Dragoons in our said countie. Our will and pleasure is that
in order to our said service you shall receive and assist any
warrants of Commissioners as are or shall be issued from the said
Lord Capell, with the same care and respect as if they were our
owne, since what he hath done or shall doe herein is done by
our command, direction, commission and authority, and for soe
doing this shall be your warrant. Given at our Court att
Oxford, the 15th day of June, 1643.
To the Commissioners of
Array, &c.
Charles Rex.
Trusty and welbeloved, we greete you well.—Whereas we
are informed that Sir Thos. Middleton, Knt. is made Lieutenant
General of North Wales by Commission from one or both of our
Houses of Parliament, and whereas Edward Vaughan, Gent. hath
withdrawn himself from our allegiance, contrary to our express
command, for the prevention of all danger and mischief that may
proceed from either of them to our countie or any part of North
Wales, our will and pleasure is, and we do hereby require you and
every of you to use your utmost power and industrie to apprehend
or seize the persons of the said Sir Thos. Middleton and Edward
Vaughan, and having seized them to keep them in safe custody,
until you shall receive our further order on that behalf.
And for so doing this shall be your sufficient warrant.
Given at our Court at Oxford, the 16th of June, 1643.
To the Commissioners of
Array, &c.
Charles Rex.
Trusty and well beloved, we greet you well. We are very
sensible of your free and reall expressions of your loyalty and
affection to us upon all occasions, for the advance of our
service:—And though we might well conceive it needlesse to
stir you up to the performance of these duties, whereunto you are
already very forward, yet we thought good hereby to put you in
mind of the great necessity of providing moneys for the
maintenance of our forces, for the defence of those parts against
the rebells, and to propose unto you, as that which we think a
very fit course, that you follow the good example of our good
subjects of our countie of Salop, and join with our trusty and
well-beloved Arthur, Lord Capell, in advising upon, and raysing
some competent monthly contribution in that our county,
proportionable to what they have levyed, and also in advancing
such considerable sums of money as you can provide, according as
divers of our well-affected subjects of the gentry of Salop have
already done. We also think it very requisite, and have signified so
much to the Lord Capell, that the High Sheriff of that our
countie, should attend him about this affair, and that some
person well affected, may be chosen out of our said countie to be
always resident with him, that may receive advertisement of your
proceedings in this business, and may signifie from time to time
to that our countie, the condition of our affairs there, soe not
donating of your ready compliance herein, wee bid you heartily
farewell. Given at our Court at Oxford, the 23rd June,
1643.
To the Commissioners of
Array, of the County of Carnarvon, &c.
Charles Rex.
Trustie and well beloved, we greete you well. It cannot
but be displeasing to us that any of our subjects, especially
such as you, who should be good examples to others, should
neglect our service, and the authorities of such to whom we have
given power to call you hereunto, such hath been your wilful
declining, as we hear, of the Lord Capell’s summons to you
by his Letters, to appear and join with the rest of the countyes
under his command, that we do assure you, if we hear not shortly
of your better complyance with him, we shall have much cause to
suspect your disaffection, for the urgency of our affairs now
admits not of procrastinations, nor our reall service of
coldness. Given at our Court at Oxford, the last day of
July, 1643.
To the Sheriff and Commissioners
of Array, of the countie of Carnarvon
By
Mr. J. ROBERTS, Surgeon, Caernarvon.
Veronica Spicata, a [xxi]
Salvia verbenaca
Iris fætidissima
Schænus albus
Lycopus europæus
Poa alpina
Festuca rubra
— vivipara
Rotbollia incurvata
Galium cruciatum, a
— boreale, b
Centunculus minimus
Rubia peregrina
Alchemilla alpina, c
Pulmonaria maritima
Hottonia palustris
Convolvulus soldanella
Campanula hederacea
Lobelia dortmanna
Samolus valerandi
Euonymus europæus
Viola lutea, d
Beta maritima
Salsola kali
Crithmum maritimum
Œnanthe pimpinelloides
Scandix odorata
Sambucus ebulus
Parnassia palustris, e
Drosera longifolia
Viburnum opulus
Scilla verna
Anthericum serotinum, f
Juncus acutus
— triglumis, g
Rumex digynus
Triglochin maritimum
Alisma natans, h
Vaccinium vitis idæa
Saxifraga stellaris
— nivalis, i
— oppositifolia, i
— cœspitosa, i
— palmata, i
— hypnoides, i
— platypetala, i
Silene nutans, k
— acaulis
Arenaria verna
— peploides
Sedum rupestre, c
Cerastium alpinum, c
— latifolium, l
Euphorbia portlandica
Spiræa filipendula
Pyrus aria, m
Rubus saxatalis, n
— chamæmorus
Potentilla verna, a
Geum rivale
Papaver cambricum
Nymphæa lutea
—alba
Cistus marifolius, a
Thalictrum minus
— alpinum, c
Trollius europæus
Ajuga alpina
Galeopsis grandiflora, o
Galeobdolon luteum, p
Scutellaria minor
Antirrhinum orontium
Scrophularia vernalis, a
Lamium album
Crambe maritima
Subularia aquatica, q
Draba incana
Arabia hispida, l
— thaliana
Cheiranthus sinuatus
Erodium cicutarium
— maritimum
Geranium sanguineum
Malva moschata
Lavatera arborea
Fumaria claviculata
Genista tinctoria
Anthyllis vulneraria
Orobus sylvaticus
Lathyrus sylvestris, r
Vicia sylvatica
Medicago sativa, s
Hypericum androsæmum
— dubium
Tragopogon pratensis
Hedypnois taraxaci
Hieracium alpinum
Cichorium intybus
Serratula alpina, b
Gnaphalium dioicum, b
Orchis pyramidalis, a
Orchis conopsea
Satyrium viride
— albidum
Ophrys ovata
— cordata, u
Serapias ensifolia, v
Malaxis paludosa, w
Sparganium natans, x
Carex dioica
— atrata
— fulva, c
— rigida
— vesicaria
Salix herbacea, c
Empetrum nigrum
Juniperus communis
Rhodiola rosea
Myrica gale
Ophioglossum vulgatum
Osmunda regalis
— lunaria
Lycopodium clavatum
— selaginoides
— selago
— annotimum, g
— alpinum
Polypodium arvonicum, y
Aspiduim lonchitis
— Thelypteris
— oreopteris
— aculeatum
Asplenium marinum
— viride
— Septentrionale
Scolopendruim ceterach
Pteris crispa
Cyathea fragile
— regia
Hymenophyllum tunbridgense
Isoetes lacustris, q
Thomas Williams, of Glan y Bala, or the Cottage between the
Lakes, Llanberis.
Thomas Phillips, Thomas Griffith, and all the Boatmen at Cwm y
glo, Llanrug.
|
FEET.
|
Height of Snowdon, according to
the Trigonometrical observations for the General Survey of
England and Wales
|
3561
|
Do. By Mr. Wollaston’s Thermometrical Barometer from
Carnarvon Quay
|
3546,25
|
Trigonometrically, according to General Roy
|
3555,4
|
Barometrically, according to Do.
|
3548,9
|
Moel Ælia, do. do.
|
2350,55
|
— do. do.
|
2371
|
— do. do.
|
2391,8
|
Highest point of the Rivals
|
1866
|
Cadair Idris
|
2914
|
Garn Fadryn
|
1233
|
Footnotes
It is in this manner, (observes
Mr. Pennant, speaking of Tommen y
Rhodwydd in Yale) that we must account for the total
disappearance of many Welsh Castles, whose names are preserved in
History, and whose vestiges we have sought for in
vain.—They were made of wood, as was very customary with
several ancient nations, and with others of later date. The
Persians, on the approach of the Spartans, secured
themselves within their wooden walls, and Cæsar found great
resistance from a Tower, in the Alpine Castle of Larignum, made
of the timber of the Larix, or the Larch, which was found to be
incombustible. In later times, the Castle of Bamborough was
built originally by Ida, with wood; the Burg of Murray was
fortified by the Danes, with the same material.—The people
of the same country, in 1228, had Castles of wood; and a century
after these, more recent instances: William de Melton, Archbishop
of York, in 1317, fortified the Mount in that City, called the
Old Bale, with planks, eighteen inches thick.
The Court of King’s Bench
has very lately determined, that stage Coach passengers cannot
legally be required to pay any demand whatever, for being
conveyed over the ferry at Conway, and for carriage of their
luggage, over and above the amount of their respective fares in
such Coach.
Probably at Braich y Bedd, near
Hafod Gelyn. There is a Tradition that in former times
there was a Church near that place, and a spot is still shewn
distinguished by the name of Hên Fonwent, (old
Church-yard); and it is not unlikely but the Walsh Princes might
nave had their Summer residence here, if we may be allowed to
judge from the name; for Garth Celyn must have been near this
spot. There is also a Tradition, that the village was set
on fire, by Oliver Cromwell’s men, from the Bridge to the
Church-yard, and that they lighted a fire under the Bell rope, in
the Church, which they made use of as a Stable.
Some idea of the magnitude of
this concern may be formed, from the Proprietor having shipped
off, from Port Penrhyn, in the year 1819, Slates to the amount of
Fifty-eight Thousand Pounds.
The Precentor, though at present
unendowed, will in a few years have a Salary annexed to his
Office, in consequence of a Decree lately made by the Lord
Chancellor in his favour.
This Ferry, probably, took its
name from the Hundred or Division of the Island in which it to
situated, viz. Tindaethwy.
Near this Ferry, on the Anglesey
shore, is a Rock known by the name of Carreg Iago, or
rather Carreg yr Iacon, or Arch-Iacon; (the
Archdeacon’s stone) rendered memorable on account of
Archbishop Baldwin having stood up to preach the crusade upon it,
at the time of his peregrinations for that purpose through Wales,
1188; and Alexander, Archdeacon of Bangor, is said to have
interpreted to the people.
Ceris, appears to be derived
either from Cawr-rys (or rhys) the mighty rushing,
or Gyr-rhys, which conveys nearly the same
meaning;—Ymryson, to contend, is compounded, of
ym and rhys; and the English word race, or
course, is probably derived from this word.
The shore near Porthamel,
(Perth Amelius, according to Rowlands; Porth ym
moel, as others conjecture,) is famed for being the place
where Suetonius landed; his infantry were conveyed over in boats,
probably near a spot still called Pont yr Ysgraffiau, and
his horse crossed, partly by swimming and partly
fording.—Ready to receive them, appeared on the shore, a
motley army, (as Tacitus informs us) and women, running wildly
about, in black attire, with dishevelled hair, and like furies,
brandishing their torches; and the Druids surrounding them, and
lifting up their hands to Heaven, and pouring forth the most
dreadful imprecations. The Roman soldiers stood astonished
with the sight—at length, animated by their leader, and
encouraging each other, being ashamed to be intimidated by a
womanly, and fanatic band, they advanced with their ensigns, and
overthrew all who opposed them, destroying them in their own
fires. After the battle, they placed garrisons in the
towns, and cut down the groves consecrated to their horrid
superstitions; for these people, considered it lawful to offer in
sacrifice, the captives taken in war, and, to consult human
entrails.—How thankful ought we to be for the benign
influence of the Gospel of peace, by which we were delivered from
the yoke of superstition, and the abominations of Heathenism!
The meaning of the word is
Resting-place, a name given it by Lord Lucan, being
descriptive of the purpose for which it was erected; his Lordship
usually spending a few days here, on his why to and from
Ireland. The house stands on a bold eminence, and commands
a full view of the Bridge and Ferry; and the inmates of this
sweet retreat, have the pleasure of beholding the busy bustling
scene, without being annoyed or discommoded, either by the noise
of the passengers or the dust of the highway, as is frequently
the case with houses situated near a public road.
Y Faenol, is derived from
Maenol, or Maenawr, (from which probably comes the
English word Manor, and the vulgar Latin Manerium)
meaning as explained in Howel Dda’s laws, either a lowland
or upland district, bounded or marked out by large stones,
(singular maen, plural meini) the former containing
four Vills, and the latter thirteen. The new house erected
by the present proprietor, is at some distance from the old one,
the latter is very ancient, and has a very curious Gothic Family
Chapel nearly adjoining it, dedicated to St. Mary.
Near the same spot, as it is
conjectured, where Agricola pasted over into the Island.
This melancholy event took place
on the night of the 5th of December, being the Carnarvon Fair
day, and the Boatmen probably in liquor: the cries of distress
were heard from both shores. One remarkable circumstance
deserves to be recorded, that only one person (out of 69)
survived in this instance, as well as the other, and both their
names Hugh Williams.
Caer, the fortified Town;
yn Arvon, in the District of Arfon, one of the Hundreds of
this County, so called from its situation, opposite Mona, or
Anglesey, which is the is the signification of the word; viz.
Ar, upon; Mona, Anglesey.
The writer is aware that a very
different account is given the origin of this motto, viz. that
these were the arms of the King of Bohemia, killed by the Black
Prince.
Carnarvon, does not owe its name
to Edward I. as is generally supposed; for Giraldus
Cambrensis mentions it in his memorable journey with the
Archbishop, in 1188; and Llewelyn the Great dates from it a
Charter, in the year 1221: probably the Caernarvon of those times
was the ancient Segontium; whose name the Welch had changed to
Caer-ar-Fon.
A Well near the old Fort, now
called Hen Waliau, bears the name of that Princess, and
some very slight remains of Ruins, point out the probable
situation of this old Building, not far from the banks of the
Seiont, to the right of the road leading to Pont Saint.
The above William Griffith, of
Carnarvon and Tref-Arthen, was descended by the Mother’s
side, (as Mr. Rowlands informs us) from the Pilston’s of
this Town, and his Grand Daughter, Margaret, conveyed this
property to Griffith Jones, of Castellmarch, in Lleyn; and his
Daughter Margaret marrying Sir William Williams, of Vaenol,
Baronet, that gentleman consequently became possessed of it.
Specimens of Ancient Welsh
Poetry.—London 1784. 4to.
The Red Dragon, was the device
of Cedwalladr, which all his descendants wore on their
banners.
Supposed to be Tal y Foel, as it
is now called.
The word Bala, with regard to a
lake, seems to convey the same meaning as Aber, when
applied to a river, viz. its embouchure.
David Thomas, the Welsh Bard,
better known by the name of Dafydd Ddu o Eryri, has taken a house
in this Parish, as he intends to quit his present habitation in
the Parish of Llandwrog, (where he has resided some time) about
April next. We cannot omit this opportunity of noticing
this favoured Son of the Awen, (Muse) who is generally
considered as the first Welsh Bard now living; and is another
instance of what may be achieved by great talents, and a strong
natural genius, though unassisted by the advantages of
education.
A conjecture, partly founded on
tradition, attributes the erection of this fortress to Pardarn
Beisrydd, son of Idawl; as we are informed to Mr. Pennant.
Rhodri Mawr, the son of Merfyn
Vrych, Prince of Wales, A.D. 843.
Rhun ap Maelgwn, A.D. 585.
It was reported that the Bard
had perished on the Cardiganshire Hills.
Here we have the testimony of
Leland, that Wyddfa is Snowdon, and Creigiau
Ryri Rocks were the Forest of Snowdon, which
comprehended nearly the whole County.
The Devil’s Bridge is near
Hafod, in Cardiganshire, twelve miles from Aberystwith.
Supposed to be derived either
from Gafl, pl. Geifl, Forks; or from Yr
Ufel, Fire, from the circumstance of their having been made
use of as signal posts, and been lighted on them for that
purpose.
John Wynn ap Hugh, of the family
of Bodvel, was Standard Bearer at the Battle of Norwich, Temp.
Edward VI. for which service he had Bardsey, and Court, in
Aberdaron, and was Sheriff of Carnarvonshire 1551; he married
Elisabeth, daughter of Sir John Puleston, by a daughter of Robert
ap Meredith ap Hwikin Llwyd, of Glyn Llifon.
It is probably Pwll Nigel might
have taken its name from this Nigel.
a
Gloddaeth,—b Rocks above Llyn Idwel,—c
Snowdon,—d Llanberis,—e Cwm
Idwel,—f on inaccessible rocks near Twll du,
Snowdon, &c.—g near llyn y Cwn,—h
Lake near Dolbadarn Castle,—i near Twll
du,—k near Gloddaeth,—i on Clogwyn
du’r Arddu,—m Penmaen mawr,—n
near Glan y Bala,—o near Bangor,—p
between Llanrwst and Conway,—q in the bottom of Llyn
y Cwn, and Ffynon Frech,—r near
Conway,—s near St. Helen’s
well,—t Creuddyn,—u by the Waterfall
near Aber,—v rare in Fachwen,—w near
Dol Ty Du,—x in Llyn Ogwen, and Llanberis
lakes,—y on a black rock near Clogwyn y Garnedd.