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The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

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The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Transcriber’s Note:

New original cover art included with this eBook is granted to the public domain.

‘Sunlight
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Edited by
ADELAIDE J. GRAY
Copyright 1913–15
W. G. PERRY
CHICAGO

The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

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Experienced knitters and crocheters will appreciate this newest edition of the Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting—because it presents the very latest novelties as well as new ideas for making many articles of unchanging style.

Beginners will find every step made clear by directions as simple and easily understood as though they were demonstrated by a teacher, because the instructions were all written from actual work on the articles.

The illustrations and directions embrace an almost unlimited variety of useful and appreciated articles.

Tiny bootees, afghans, hoods and sacques for the baby—warm skirt or tasseled cap for the little girl—sweater and sturdy mittens for the boy—a skating cap or sweater after a new and natty model for the man—a comfortable shawl or slippers for the grandmother and innumerable fancies from opera capes to bridge and motor jackets for the friend.

That the hours of work on any article may not go for naught with its first washing, it is imperative to select yarns that have proven trustworthy.

Sunlight Yarns have for many years been recognized as meeting all the requirements of satisfactory work, lasting colors and long wear.

There is a Sunlight Yarn for every kind of Knitting and Crocheting

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SUNLIGHT Golf Yarn is a four-ply, lofty yarn of hard wearing quality, made in a line of heather shades and brilliant colorings, especially suitable for golf jackets, stockings, toques, children’s sweater coats, caps, etc.

SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted is well known for its extreme wearing qualities. The greatest of care is exercised to produce a round, even thread with just the right amount of twist to make it knit up well. It is made in a full line of colors, prints and mixtures, and is used for knitting hose, gloves, sweaters and other articles that must stand wear and great exposure.

SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown is ideal for crocheting and knitting sport scarfs, afghans, slippers, toques, aviation caps, shawls, fine sweaters, mufflers, tying comforts, and innumerable other beautiful and serviceable articles.

Only the finest selection of wools of just the right quality is used in this yarn, and it is carefully spun and twisted to produce just the proper degree of soft, even loftiness and elasticity.

It is made in a wide range of shades covering every possible requirement from the most delicate to the heaviest staple shades and all the newest colors in popular favor.

SUNLIGHT Eight-fold Germantown is the same in its general characteristics as the four-fold Germantown, except that the thread is about twice as heavy. It is especially good for making toques, aviation caps, heavy sweaters, afghans, slumber robes, etc.

SUNLIGHT Saxony is a fine, soft, three-ply thread, smoothly and evenly spun, made in a complete line of shadings. Only the finest of wools go into this soft yarn, which is ideal for making children’s stockings, soft gloves and mittens, fascinators, infants’ crocheted skirts and hoods, bootees, trimming hoods, children’s coats, shawls, etc.

SUNLIGHT Spanish Worsted—four-ply—is made of a special selection of fine, hard wearing wools. It is spun into a finer thread than the German Knitting Worsted, is used for much the same purposes, but is particularly adapted for knitting gloves and mittens, men’s socks, women’s stockings, sweaters, etc. Sunlight Spanish Worsted is made in a complete line of colors and mixtures.

SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss is a very lofty, fluffy yarn, soft, evenly spun. It comes in a beautiful line of shades and makes up well into fine fascinators, sport scarfs, women’s sweaters, circular shawls, baby jackets, toques, women’s kimonas, and many other articles.

SUNLIGHT Eiderdown Wool is a soft, fluffy, round strand, used for crocheting toques, aviation caps, auto caps, and for baby afghans.

SUNLIGHT Pompadour Wool is a soft, fine thread yarn with a strand of silk running through it. It works up very effectively in dainty automobile hoods, scarfs, shawls, fascinators and baby garments.

SUNLIGHT Shetland Wool is a two-ply yarn, finer spun than Saxony and very soft. It comes in a line of delicate colors and is used for infants’ sacques and bootees, women’s scarfs, shawls, etc.

SUNLIGHT Alliance Worsted is a very fine knitting yarn, made soft, lofty and yielding. Its uses are about the same as the Spanish and the German Knitting Worsted, but the effect is much softer. Made in black and white only.

SUNLIGHT Fairy Floss is a soft yarn of the nature of a Shetland Floss, crimped to give it a wavy effect. It is used for shoulder wraps, shawls, fascinators, kimonas, etc.

SUNLIGHT Coral Yarn is a fine, soft, round yarn with a very noticeable spiral twist. It is used for infants’ mitts, bootees and jackets.

SUNLIGHT Lusterine is a very soft yarn with a lustrous strand running spirally about it. It is largely used for making up dainty infants’ garments, scarfs, shawls, etc.

SUNLIGHT Ice Wool is a genuine Mohair high luster, wiry, two-ply thread. It is used for circular shawls and all fancy wraps and headgear.

SUNLIGHT Angora works up very beautifully into infants’ soft hoods, Tam o’Shanters, infants’ muffs and women’s mitts, caps and toques. It gives a soft, fluffy surface.

Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS

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Reproductions are actual size
Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

10 inches long      Size

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

15 inches long      Size

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

10 inches long      Size

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

15 inches long      Size

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Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Length 12, 13, 14 inches

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Length 12 inches

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
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Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Style No. 1      Size

Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Style No. 2      Size

7 Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
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Length, 18 inches
Illustration — Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks — BONE KNITTING NEEDLES — WOODEN KNITTING NEEDLES — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — WOODEN CROCHET HOOKS — CELLULOID KNITTING NEEDLES — CELLULOID CROCHET HOOKS — BONE CROCHET HOOKS — STEEL CROCHET HOOKS — AMBER DOUBLE CROCHET HOOKS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

9No abbreviations are used in this book.

A star (*) is often used before and after a group of words to indicate that the work described between the stars must be repeated.

First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET

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Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain of loops, pulling out 1 loop through the other.

Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Place the hook in a loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once.

Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Take up 1 loop on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once.

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Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Put yarn around hook, take up 1 loop on the chain, yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time.

Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Put yarn around hook and pick up 1 loop on the chain; yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice.

Illustration — First Stitches — Crocheting — CHAIN STITCH — SLIP STITCH — SINGLE CROCHET — DOUBLE CROCHET — LONG CROCHET — TREBLE CROCHET — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Put yarn around hook twice and take up 1 loop on the chain. Yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops on needle and repeat this 2 times more.

First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF

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Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a loop on the left hand needle. Put the right hand needle through the loop, yarn over needle from left to right and pull through a stitch. * Take up the stitch with left hand needle from right to left, yarn over the right hand needle from left to right and pull through a stitch and repeat from *.

Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Having the stitches on left hand needle, put right hand needle through a stitch, in front; yarn over needle from left to right and pull through a stitch. Drop the stitch on left hand needle and knit another stitch.

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Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Have the yarn in front of a stitch and over the left hand needle. Put right hand needle through the stitch from right to left, yarn around needle from left to right and pull through a stitch. Drop stitch on left hand needle and purl another stitch.

Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Pass the stitch over from left to right without knitting it.

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Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Knit or purl 2 stitches together as 1 stitch. Another way: Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one.

Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Knit 1 stitch plain; hold the loop on the left hand needle and knit another stitch in the back of the loop. Drop the loop on the left hand needle and repeat knitting.

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Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This is the same as plain knitting, with the exception that you put the needle in the back of the stitch.

Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

After having knitted 1 or more stitches, put yarn over needle and knit 2 stitches together as 1 stitch. Next row: Knit yarn over needle as 1 stitch. This will make the eyelet.

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Illustration — First Stitches—Knitting — CASTING ON STITCHES — KNITTING PLAIN — PURLING — SLIPPING A STITCH — DECREASING A STITCH — INCREASING A STITCH — MAKING A TWIST STITCH — MAKING AN EYELET — BINDING OFF — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Knit 2 stitches, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd one; knit 1 stitch and slip the loop on needle over the knitted stitch and repeat.

Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH

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Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Work 1 double crochet in the 5th stitch from needle, make another double crochet across the 1st one in the next stitch on the chain. This makes the Cross Stitch.

Now make 1 double crochet in 2nd stitch on the chain and the other double crochet across in the stitch skipped.

2nd row: Same as 1st row; make the stitches above each other and take up in the double stitch on the row below.

Turn for every row.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length of the work.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in the 2nd stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle. This is the single crochet. Repeat in every stitch in the chain to end of row; turn.

2nd row: Make 1 chain, work same as on 1st row, taking up in the back of the stitches on row below.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain as long as 1½ times the length of the work.

1st row: * Begin with 7 single crochet (larger or smaller number of stitches as desired), make 3 single crochet in the next (the 8th) stitch on the chain, then make 7 single crochet, skip 2 stitches on the chain and repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Plain, or 1 single crochet for each stitch on row below, taking up in the back of the stitches.

3rd row: Same as 1st row; make 3 single crochet in 1 stitch at the point, then work 7 single crochet, skip 2 stitches and repeat.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Work 3 double crochet in the 5th stitch from needle. * Make 1 single crochet in the 4th stitch on the chain, then make a chain of 3 stitches and 3 double crochet in same place as the single crochet; repeat from * to end of row; turn.

2nd row: A chain of 3 stitches; make 3 double crochet in the single crochet below; then work 1 single crochet on top of the block over the chain of 3 stitches.

Now make a chain of 3 stitches, and work 3 double crochet in the same place as the single crochet over the chain of 3 stitches; then a single crochet on top of next block and repeat this for the work.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain somewhat longer than the length of the work.

1st row: Work 5 double crochet in the 5th stitch from needle. * Make 1 single crochet in 4th stitch on the chain, then a shell of 5 double crochet in 4th stitch from the single crochet and repeat from * to end of row; end row with a single crochet, turn.

2nd row: A chain of 3 stitches; work 2 double crochet in the single crochet on row below (always taking up in the double stitch).

* Make 1 single crochet in the middle of the shell, then make a shell of 5 double crochet in next single crochet and repeat from *, ending the row with 3 double crochet, turn. Start next row with a shell and repeat for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in 4th stitch from needle, yarn over and pick up another loop in next stitch on the chain; now yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops and make 1 chain.

Repeat the stitch to end of row, taking up in every stitch on the chain; turn.

2nd row: Draw out the loop on needle, put yarn over hook and take up 1st loop in the 1 chain below, yarn over and pick up 2nd loop between 1st and 2nd stitch on row below.

Pull through as before and repeat for the work, always taking up the loops for the stitch on each side of the stitch below.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

1st Part: Knit plain every row.

2nd Part: Knit 2, purl 2 for every row.

3rd Part: 1st row: Knit 1, purl 1 and repeat to end of row.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, alternating the stitches. Slip 1st stitch for every row.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — CROSS STITCH — RIB STITCH — SLIPPER STITCH — BLOCK STITCH — SHELL STITCH — GRANDMOTHER’S STITCH — DESIGNS IN KNITTING AND PURLING — PATENT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches, uneven numbers.

1st row: Knit 1st stitch, * keep yarn in front of needle and slip 1 stitch with the yarn, knit plain the next stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Now for every row always slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch and knit plain last stitch.

2nd row: Knit yarn over needle and the slipped stitch together as 1 stitch, and put yarn in front of needle and slip the knitted stitch with the yarn.

Repeat these 2 rows for the work.

Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH

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Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches. Knit forward and back.

For every row slip 1st stitch, having the thread to the left side of the stitch and knit last stitch.

1st row: * Knit 4, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1 and repeat from *, ending row by knitting 4 (knit last stitch).

2nd row: * Purl 4, knit 2, purl 1, knit 2 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Purl 5, * knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 6 and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Knit 5, * purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 6 and repeat from * to end of row.

These 4 rows form the design. Make 5th row the same as 1st row; repeat.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches. Knit forward and back.

For every row slip 1st stitch, having the thread to the left side of the stitch, and knit last stitch.

1st row: Purl 3, knit 2 and repeat; at the end of row purl 1 (knit last stitch).

2nd row: Knit 1, * purl 2, knit 3 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Purl 1, * knit 2, purl 3 and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Knit 3, purl 2 and repeat; at the end of row knit 1.

These 4 rows make the design.

Work 5th row the same as 1st row; repeat.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: Knit 5, * purl 2, knit 4 and repeat from *, ending row with purl 1.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch, * purl 4, knit 2 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Slip 1, having the thread to the left side of the stitch, * knit 4, purl 2 and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Same as 2nd row.

5th row: Slip 1, * put the next two stitches on extra needle, knit 2 stitches from 1st needle, then knit the 2 stitches on the extra needle. This makes the twist; purl 2 and repeat from * to end of row.

6th row: Same as 2nd row.

Repeat the twist on every 6th row.

This pattern can be made larger by knitting plain 6 stitches and making the twist on every 8th row.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: Knit 5, * purl 2, knit 4 and repeat from *, ending row with knit 1.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch; * knit 2, purl 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Slip 1 (same as on 2nd row, yarn to left), knit 1, * purl 2, knit 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Slip 1 (yarn to left), purl 3, * knit 2, purl 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

These 4 rows form the design.

5th row: Slip 1, knit 4 and repeat from * on 1st row. Repeat for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: Knit 1st stitch, purl 3, * knit 2, purl 4 and repeat from *, ending row with purl 4.

2nd row: Slip 1, knit 3, * purl 2, knit 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Slip 1, having the thread to the left side of the stitch, * knit 2, purl 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Slip 1, * purl 2, knit 4 and repeat from * to end of row.

These 4 rows form the design.

Make 5th row same as 1st row, slipping 1st stitch instead of knitting it.

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Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: * Knit 1, purl 1 and repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch and knit plain to end of row.

3rd row: Slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for the work.

(Waistcoat)
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Fasten the yarn and make 1 chain. * Take up 1 loop through center of the single crochet (below top chain, having 1 thread on each side of the needle on both sides of work). Put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

26
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Fasten the yarn and make 1 chain. * Put hook through the left side loop of the single crochet (below top chain) and through space at left side of same stitch and take up 1 loop. Put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle and repeat from * to end of row.

Make a single crochet in the chain on edge, at the start of every 3rd row and drop a single crochet at the end of every 3rd row. By doing this the edges of the work will be kept straight.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Sweaters — AUTO STITCH — LITTLE BETTY STITCH — CABLE STITCH — FAIRY STITCH — DARNING STITCH — PEARL STITCH — NEW CHAIN STITCH — GERMAN WAISTCOAT STITCH — ENGLISH WAISTCOAT STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: Knit 1, * purl 3, knit 2 and repeat from *, ending row with knit 1.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch; having the yarn to the left side of the stitch, * purl 3, knit 2 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Slip 1 (yarn to left); knit plain to end of row.

4th row: Same as 2nd row.

5th row: Same as 3rd row.

6th row: Same as 2nd row.

7th row: Same as 1st row.

Repeat for the work.

Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH

27
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length for the work.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, then put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up the loops in the front from row below.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Wind the yarn into 2 balls. Use 1 ball and make a chain the length required.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up the loops same as on 1st row, but in front, on row below; then turn, use the other ball and with the other hook pull through 1 loop at a time.

Pick up the loops as before with the same hook, then pull through with the 1st hook and ball and repeat.

28
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Start in 2nd stitch from needle and pick up 5 loops, 1 in each stitch on the chain; put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain.

2nd stitch: Take up 1 loop below the 1 chain, pick up another loop in the back of last loop on preceding stitch; take up 1 loop in same place as last loop on stitch before; then pick up 2 loops in the next 2 stitches on the chain. (Always take up 5 loops.) Pull through as before and repeat to end of row.

2nd row: A chain of 3 stitches; take up 2 loops in the chain, 1 loop in the back of 1st stitch on * below, 1 loop in 2nd stitch on the star (take up in double stitch), then 1 loop in the back of 1st stitch on 2nd star below, pull through and repeat.

To make the pattern look well, each star must come exactly above the other.

29
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Begin with a single crochet in 2nd stitch from needle. * Make a shell of 7 double crochet in the 4th stitch on the chain, and 1 single crochet in 4th stitch from the shell and repeat from * to end of row; end row with a single crochet.

2nd row: Work on same side, fasten the yarn in the single crochet on 1st row and draw the loop on needle long. Take up 3 long loops from 1st, 2nd and 3rd stitch on the shell below, put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. Draw out loop on needle and make first a slip stitch, then a single crochet in 4th stitch on shell below.

Now have the loop long on needle and pick up 7 long loops from below, 3 on 1st shell, 1 in the single crochet and 3 loops on 2nd shell, then put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. Draw out the loop, take up in the next shell as before, and repeat.

3rd row: Start with 4 double crochet in center stitch of the 4 loops below.

Make 1 single crochet in the single crochet below, taking up in the double stitch, then make the shell of 7 double crochet in the center stitch of the 7 loops below, and repeat.

Alternate the double shells; begin 4th row with a single crochet in 1st stitch on row below, then pick up the 7 loops.

Repeat these 4 rows for the work.

30
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length for the work.

1st row: * Make 1 single crochet in the 2nd stitch on the chain, then take up 1 loop in the next stitch on the chain, and from this loop make a chain of 3 stitches, put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle at once. This is the popcorn stitch. Repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Start with 2 single crochet and work same as on 1st row, always taking up in the double stitch on row below.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Crochet a chain the length required.

1st row: Take up 2 loops in the chain, 1 in 4th and 1 in 5th stitch from needle. Put yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time. Repeat this stitch to end of row; make 1 chain; turn.

2nd row: Make the same stitch; take up 1st loop in the space below, pick up the 2nd loop in same space to the left side of the thread, going diagonally across the space.

Work to end of row, make 1 chain, turn and repeat 2nd row for the work.

31
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches, even numbers.

1st row: Knit 1st stitch, * purl 1, slip 1, keep the yarn in front of the slipped stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Now for every row always slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch, and knit last Stitch.

2nd row: Purl the stitches.

3rd row: Slip 1, purl 1 and repeat same as 1st row.

4th row: Purl the stitches.

Repeat from 1st to 4th row for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on the stitches.

1st row: Knit 5, purl 5 and repeat to end of row; turn.

Slip the 1st stitch for every row.

2nd row: Knit plain the knitted stitches on this side and purl the purled stitches.

Work 7 rows and alternate the squares.

32
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in the 4th stitch from needle, put yarn over hook and take up another loop in same place, yarn over again and pick up 1 more loop in same place. Now put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. This is the Bean Stitch.

Repeat in every other stitch on the chain to end of row; turn.

2nd row: A chain of 2 stitches; make the bean stitch in the space below, on the right side of the thread, going diagonally across the space.

Repeat 2nd row for the work, and turn for every row.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length for the work.

1st row: Work the single crochet to end of row, make 1 chain; turn.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, always taking up in the double stitch on row below.

3rd row: Make 2 single crochet, put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop from below, around (from right to left) the third single crochet on 1st row; yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time. This is the Tuft Stitch.

Work 1 single crochet in 4th stitch on row below. Now make the tuft stitch in the 5th single crochet on 1st row and then 1 single crochet in 6th stitch on row below and repeat to end of row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd row, alternating the tuft stitches and always making them in the single crochet on the 2nd row below.

33
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain (make the loops long), then put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up 1 loop between each loop on row below and pull through as before; at the end of row pull through the 2 last loops as 1.

3rd row: Take up the loops as before; at the end pick up 1 loop in the back of last loop on 2nd row. Pull through 1 loop at a time and repeat 2nd and 3rd row for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Draw out the loop on hook, * pick up 1 loop in 2nd stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and take up another loop in same place and repeat from * to end of row.

Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 cluster at a time; at the end of row pull through 1st loop and make 1 chain.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, make 1 cluster between 1st loop and 1st cluster on row below; then repeat, making 1 cluster between each cluster below. At the end take up 1 loop in the back of last cluster on 1st row, yarn over and pull through the loop. Repeat as before. At the end of this row pull through the 1 loop with the cluster and make 1 chain.

Repeat these two rows for the work.

34
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet; 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, always taking up in the back of the stitches; 1 chain, turn.

3rd row: Work 3 single crochet, * put yarn over hook twice and take up 1 loop in the chain, below 4th single crochet (take up from underneath); yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time. Skip 1 stitch on row below for the treble crochet, now made; make 3 single crochet and repeat from * to end of row; 1 chain, turn.

4th row: Same as 2nd row.

5th row: Same as 3rd row; start with 1 single crochet, make the treble crochet, taking up from below, on top of the single crochet on 2nd row, then 3 single crochet and repeat.

Repeat 4th and 5th rows, alternating the treble crochet.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Pick up 3 loops on the chain, in 4th, 5th and 6th stitch from needle; put yarn over hook, pull through the 3 loops and make 1 chain. Now put the hook through the 3 loops, yarn over hook and draw through 1 loop, at last yarn over, pull through 3 loops on needle and make 1 chain. This is the Honeycomb Stitch.

Take up 1st loop for next stitch in same place as preceding stitch and the other 2 loops in the next 2 stitches on the chain. Repeat to end of row; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Same as 1st row; start with a chain of 3 stitches, pick up 1st loop in the 1st stitch on the chain, take up the other 2 loops on top of the stitch below (always taking up in the back of the stitches).

Repeat for the work.

35
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Work the single crochet, 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Make 1 single crochet (take up in the back of the stitches on row below), put yarn over hook twice, and take up 1 loop in the chain, below 4th single crochet (take up from underneath), yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time. Skip 1 stitch on row below for the treble crochet, now made, and * make 3 single crochet, 1 in each stitch.

Now make another treble crochet in same place as last one, leaving 2 loops on needle; then make 1 more treble crochet in the chain, in 4th stitch from the 2 treble crochet previously made, pulling through 3 loops the last time. Repeat from * to end of row, make 1 chain, turn.

3rd row: The single crochet (taking up in the double stitch on row below), 1 chain, turn.

4th row: Make 3 single crochet and repeat same as on 2nd row, making the treble crochet in the 1 loop on top of the treble crochet below, taking up from underneath.

Repeat for the work.

36
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain; put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: The same as 1st row, taking up the loops in the back of the loops on 1st row.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet; 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Single crochet, taking up in the double stitch on row below; 1 chain, turn.

3rd row: Begin with 1 single crochet, then * put yarn over hook and take up (from right to left) 1 loop on the chain, below next stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over and take up another loop in same place as 1st loop (make the loops long). Put yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops, then yarn over and pull through the last 3 loops.

Skip 1 stitch on row below and make 3 single crochet, 1 in each stitch. Repeat from * to end of row. Now make 2 rows as before in the single crochet; then repeat 3rd row, alternating the heavy stitches and making them in the single crochet below, on the 3rd row from top.

37
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Make 1 single crochet; * put yarn over hook twice and take up 1 loop on the chain below the next stitch. Yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops at a time. Skip 1 stitch on row below and make 3 single crochet, 1 in each stitch (always taking up in the back of the stitches, with the exception of taking up in the double stitch on the treble crochet).

Repeat from * to end of row; break off the yarn.

3rd row: Start with 2 single crochet; then repeat 2nd row, making the treble crochet below the next stitch, in the single crochet on 2nd row from top (taking up from underneath).

4th row: Begin with 3 single crochet and repeat as before.

5th row: Fasten the yarn and make the treble crochet; then repeat as before.

Repeat the 4 last rows for the work.

38
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain; put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up in the loops below.

3rd row: Make 1 chain, then 1 single crochet on top of the stitch between 1st and 2nd loop on row below. * Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop through 2nd and 3rd loops on 1st row (make loop long); yarn over and take up another loop in same place. Put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Skip 2 loops on row below, make 1 single crochet and repeat from * to end of row, making the next stitch in the next 2 loops on 1st row; break off the yarn.

4th row: Same as 1st row, taking up the loops in the double stitch on row below.

5th row: Same as 3rd row, making the cluster above the cluster below, taking up from right to left above that 1 loop on top of the cluster. Break off the yarn.

Repeat 4th and 5th rows for the work.

39
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(When white and colored yarns are used.)

Begin with white yarn and cast on a number of stitches divisible by 5, then add 2 more stitches.

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Purl the stitches.

3rd row: Plain; 4th row purl, and 5th row, knit plain.

Start with the colored yarn.

1st row: Fasten the yarn and slip 1st stitch. * Knit plain with the colored, 5 stitches; slip the next 5 stitches over on the other needle from right to left, keep the yarn in back of the slipped stitches and repeat from * to end of row, leaving the last stitch on the needle.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch (of the colored stitches), having yarn to the left side of the stitch and purl 4. * Slip the white stitches over on the other needle, having the yarn in front of the slipped stitches, purl 5 (in the colored yarn) and repeat from * to end of row, leaving the last stitch on the needle.

3rd row: Slip 1st stitch (in the pink) having the thread to the right side of the stitch and repeat same as on first row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 6 rows in pink. Begin with white.

1st row: Knit first stitch, then purl the stitches; knit last stitch.

2nd row: Knit plain.

3rd row: Purl the stitches.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows until you have 6 rows in white.

Now make another stripe in the color, like 1st one, alternating the stitches.

Repeat 2nd stripe in white and 2nd stripe in colored yarn for the work.

40
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Start in 2nd stitch from needle and * take up 3 loops, 1 in each stitch on the chain (make the loops long); then pick up 1 loop (not long) in the next stitch on the chain and from that loop make 1 chain. Repeat from *, ending row with the short loop and 1 chain.

Now * put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through the 3 long loops at once and repeat from * to end of row; make 1 chain.

2nd row: Take up 1 loop in the space below to right side of the 3 long loops, pick up 1 loop in the stitch going across the 3 loops, and 1 loop in the space to left side of the 3 loops below. Pick up the short loop in the 1 chain, made in the preceding row, and make 1 chain. Repeat from * to end of row.

Pull through same as on 1st row.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

41
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Begin in 2nd stitch from the needle and * take up 3 loops on the chain, 1 loop in each stitch. Put yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over and pull through last loop.

Make a slip stitch on the chain in same place as last loop in preceding stitch. Repeat from * to end of row; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Fasten the yarn and make 1 chain. * Take up 1 loop in space below to right side of the stitch. Pick up 2 loops in the space to left side of the stitch—that is, 1 loop on each side of the thread going diagonally across the space. Pull through same as on 1st stitch; make the slip stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

42
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in 2nd stitch from needle, yarn over and take up another loop in the same place (draw the loops long). * Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in 2nd stitch from the preceding cluster, yarn over and take up another loop in same place and repeat from * to end of row.

Now put yarn over hook and pull through 1 cluster at a time. At end of row pull through last loop and make 1 chain.

2nd row: * Put yarn over hook and take up (from right to left) 1 loop through the cluster below, yarn over and take up another loop through the same cluster and repeat from *.

At end of row pick up 1 loop in the back of last cluster below; put yarn over hook and pull through the loop with the cluster and repeat as before.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

43
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: The single crochet. At end of row make a chain of 2 stitches; turn.

2nd row: Take up 1 loop in the 1st stitch and another loop in the 2nd stitch on row below, always taking up in the back of the stitches. Put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle and make 1 chain.

2nd stitch: Take up 1 loop in same place as last loop in preceding stitch; pick up the other loop in 2nd stitch on row below. Pull through as before and repeat to end of row.

Make 3rd row same as 1st row, taking up in the back of the stitches.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows for the work.

44
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Begin in 2nd stitch from needle and pick up 5 loops on the chain, 1 in each stitch (draw the loops long). Put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain.

2nd stitch: * Take up 1 loop below the 1 chain just made, pick up another loop in the back of last loop in preceding stitch, 1 loop in same place as last loop in preceding stitch, then 2 more loops on the chain, 1 in each stitch (always take up 5 loops). Pull through same as before, make 1 chain and repeat from * to end of row; turn.

2nd row: A chain of 3 stitches; take up 2 loops in the chain, then 2 loops, 1 in each stitch, on star below (same start for every row, always 4 loops to the 1st star).

Make 2nd row same as 1st row, always taking up in the double stitch on row below.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

45
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghans — OLD AFGHAN STITCH — DOUBLE HOOK AFGHAN STITCH — STAR STITCH — DOUBLE SHELL STITCH — POPCORN STITCH — THE COLONIAL STITCH — EYELET STITCH — CHECKER STITCH — BEAN STITCH — TUFT STITCH — INDIAN AFGHAN STITCH — CLUSTER STITCH — NEWPORT STITCH — HONEYCOMB STITCH — TRELLIS STITCH — PURLED AFGHAN STITCH — ROBE STITCH — OLD NEWPORT STITCH — FRENCH AFGHAN STITCH — POCKET STITCH — PINE STITCH — KNOT STITCH — ROPE STITCH — ICELAND STITCH FOR EIDERDOWN AFGHANS — DOUBLE STAR STITCH — SPLICING STITCH — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: * Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in the chain; pull this loop through the next loop on needle, then put yarn over hook and pull through the 2 remaining loops. Repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, always taking up in the double stitch on row below.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

Detail Stitches—Afghan Border — MALTESE STITCH — LACE EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE

46
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghan Border — MALTESE STITCH — LACE EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Have a plain afghan stitch stripe for foundation. (See page 25, Old Afghan Stitch.)

1st row: Start on the edge about 1 inch from a corner with a single crochet; make 1 chain, draw out the loop, put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in back of the single crochet, yarn over and take up another loop in same place, yarn over and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. Draw out the loop on needle and make another cluster in the back of the 1 chain, the eye of the Maltese Stitch.

Fasten to the other edge with a slip stitch, make a chain of 3 stitches, go back into the eye of the Maltese with a slip stitch and make 1 chain. Work 1 cluster as before in the back of the 1 chain, another cluster, fasten to the edge and repeat for the length of the border.

2nd row: Start in the eye of the Maltese with a slip stitch; make 1 chain, then a cluster in the 1 chain and fasten to a stitch opposite the cluster at the edge. A chain of 3 stitches, go back into the eye of the Maltese with a slip stitch, another chain of 3 stitches, go over to the next eye of the Maltese and repeat.

47
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghan Border — MALTESE STITCH — LACE EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(When white and pink yarns are used.)

Begin with white yarn and make a chain the length required.

1st row: Work the single crochet; break off the yarn. Turn the row upside down, so that you will take up in the chain.

2nd row: Start with a single crochet; * make 1 chain, then make 2 double crochet between 4th and 5th stitch from the single crochet, a chain of 2 stitches and 2 more double crochet in the same place. Make 1 chain, a single crochet between 4th and 5th stitch from the double crochet, and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row, making the double crochet over the chain of 2 stitches and the single crochet in the single crochet on row below.

Now use pink yarn.

4th row: Make a slip stitch (from right to left) below the 1st single crochet on 2nd row. Make a chain of 4 stitches and a slip stitch over the 1 chain above; a chain of 4 stitches and another slip stitch over the next 1 chain above, then a chain of 4 stitches and * make 1 double crochet over the chain of 2 stitches. Now make a chain of 3 stitches, then make 1 single crochet below the chain over the double crochet and repeat from * 3 times more in same space.

Make other side of scallop to correspond.

Attach lace to afghan with pink yarn. * Make a slip stitch on edge of afghan, then make a slip stitch on edge of lace and repeat from *, taking up in every stitch on both sides.

This stitch is also used in putting stripes together.

48
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghan Border — MALTESE STITCH — LACE EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(When white and pink yarns are used.)

Begin with white yarn and make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make 5 single crochet, then * 1 chain, skip 1 stitch, work 9 single crochet and repeat from * to end of row; break off the yarn.

2nd row: Make 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on 1st row. * Put yarn over hook twice, skip 4 stitches and take up 1 loop in the space; yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time. Make 8 more treble crochet in same space; a single crochet in 5th stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row, in pink: Make a single crochet in 1st stitch; take up 1 loop in each of the next 2 stitches, * put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle. Make a chain of 3 stitches, take up 1 loop in same place as preceding stitch, 1 loop in the next stitch and repeat from *, having a single crochet between each scallop.

Now make another chain in white, same length as first one.

Work 1 row in the double crochet.

Join this row to the scallop with the cord stitch.

Use white and pink yarn, turn the row upside down, place both edges together and work as on one.

Start with white yarn; make 1 single crochet and a chain of 4 stitches. Take the pink yarn and make 1 single crochet in the 2nd stitch from the white, then a chain of 4 stitches.

Now take up the white chain over the pink one, toward you, and make a single crochet in the 2nd stitch, then a chain of 4 stitches.

Repeat the same with the pink chain.

Work alternately with the 2 colors.

This corded stitch is also used in putting stripes together.

49
Illustration — Detail Stitches—Afghan Border — MALTESE STITCH — LACE EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — SCALLOP EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(When white and blue yarns are used.)

Begin with white yarn and make a chain the length required.

1st row: Make the single crochet, 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: The single crochet, taking up in the back of the stitches.

3rd row, in blue: Make 1 double crochet below top row, in 3rd stitch from edge; a chain of 3 stitches and another double crochet across 1st one in 1st stitch from edge.

Repeat the cross, leaving 1 stitch between each cross.

4th row, in white: * Make 1 single crochet in 1st cross, then a shell of 8 double crochet in the next cross and 1 single crochet in 3rd cross; make 1 chain and repeat from * to end of row.

5th row, in blue: Make 1 single crochet between the scallops; then 1 chain and another single crochet in the 1st double crochet. * A chain of 3 stitches; make 1 single crochet in the 2 loops below the chain, then 1 single crochet in the next double crochet and repeat from * around the scallop.

Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE

50
Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length for the work.

1st row: Put yarn over hook twice, take up 1 loop in the 6th stitch from needle, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; yarn over hook, skip 1 stitch on the chain and pick up another loop in the next stitch. Now yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time and make 1 chain.

Yarn over hook again and take up 1 loop from the 2 loops in middle of cross, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, then 2 more and make 1 chain.

Repeat the cross stitch to end of row, leaving 1 stitch on the chain between each cross; break off the yarn.

Repeat 1st row, alternating the crosses (take up in the double stitch on the row below).

Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

1st row: Put yarn over hook twice, take up 1 loop in the 6th stitch from needle, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; yarn over hook, skip 1 stitch on the chain and pick up another loop in the next stitch.

Now yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time and make 1 chain. Yarn over hook again and take up 1 loop from the 2 loops in middle of cross, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, then 2 more and make 1 chain. Skip 1 stitch on the chain, make another cross and repeat to end of row. Break off the yarn.

2nd row: Same as 1st row; make the crosses above each other, taking up in the double stitch on row below.

51

Make a chain the length required.

1st stitch: Put yarn around hook 10 times (not too tight) and take up 1 loop in 5th stitch from needle; yarn around hook and pull through all on needle at once.

Repeat 1st stitch, always taking up in the next stitch on the chain.

This pretty stitch is used for borders, belts, etc.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain the length required.

Put yarn around hook 6 times (not too tight) and take up 1 loop in 4th stitch from needle; yarn around hook and pull through all on needle at once.

Now yarn around 6 times and repeat, making 1 stitch in each stitch on the chain.

Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Begin with 1 chain; * make another chain a little tighter, pull out the loop and withdraw the hook.

Now put hook back into 2nd chain from the loop and draw out a loop; make 1 chain and repeat from * for any length desired.

52
Illustration — Detail Stitches — OPEN CROSS STITCH — DOUBLE CROSS STITCH — BULLION STITCH — NARROW BULLION STITCH — LACE PICOT — PICOT EDGE — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Begin with a chain of 8 stitches. Make 1 single crochet in 4th stitch from needle. Put yarn over needle 3 times and take up 1 loop in the 2nd stitch on the chain, yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time. * A chain of 4 stitches, make 1 single crochet in the 1st stitch on the chain. Put yarn over hook 3 times, take up 1 loop in middle of that long stitch, made before; yarn over and pull through 2 loops at a time and repeat from *.

Infant’s Crocheted Bonnet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

53
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
2 skeins white
1 skein colored
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
3½ yards Satin Ribbon, ½ inch wide
1 yard Satin Ribbon, 1⅛ inches wide
Illustration — Infant’s Crocheted Bonnet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

Start on the turnover with white yarn. Make a chain of 60 stitches.

1st row: Take up with the hook 1 loop in each stitch on the chain. Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up in the loops on row below.

3rd row: Pick up 3 loops; leave the yarn, * take up 4th loop with pink yarn and make 1 double crochet in the loop below on 2nd row from top. The next 3 loops in white and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat these 3 rows, alternating the double crochet. Work 9 rows. Start next row on wrong side of the turnover and take up in the loops from the back. Begin in 1st loop with a chain of 2 stitches. Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in 2nd loop on row below. Yarn over and take up another loop in 3rd loop on row below. Yarn over and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. This is the stitch for bonnet. Work to end of row. Make 1 stitch for each 2 loops on row below.

2nd row: Start same as on 1st row and take up between the stitches on preceding row so that each stitch will come exactly above the one below. Work 3 stitches, then make 1 heavy stitch. Put yarn over hook and take the stitch below on your needle from right to left. Yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop, yarn over, take up another loop in same place and repeat this 3 times more, yarn over and pull through all on needle and make 1 chain. Work 6 stitches, then make 1 heavy stitch, repeat with 8 stitches, 1 heavy, 6, 1 heavy and 3 stitches.

Repeat this row until you have 12 rows, or 4½ inches from turnover.

Continue work on 12 stitches in center of row, and make 11 rows.

This part is the back of bonnet.

Sew the sides together.

Now work at bottom of bonnet. Start at front in 1st stitch from the turnover and make 1 row of single crochet. Work tight, make 2 single crochet for each row on the sides and make 1 single crochet for each stitch in back.

Repeat the single crochet, taking up in double stitch and work back and forth for 10 rows.

54Finish off the edge all around with 1 row in pink yarn:

Take up 2 short loops, leaving 1 stitch between on row below, yarn over hook and pull through. A chain of 2 stitches and repeat, taking up in same and 2nd stitch on row below.

For trimming make two bows of the narrow ribbon and put them on the sides to hold the turnover in its place. Have about twenty loops in each bow.

Sew ribbon on to tie.

Infant’s Crocheted Hood — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

55
For details see Single Crochet, page 10 and Star Stitch, page 28
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—2 skeins of white
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook No. 5
2¼ yds. Pink Ribbon, 1⅛ inches wide
⅙ yard Pink Silk for lining
Illustration — Infant’s Crocheted Hood — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Begin in back with a chain of 3 stitches.

1st row: Join to a ring and work tight 12 single crochet in the ring. Join for every row and take up in double stitch on the row below.

2nd row: Work looser and make 12 single crochet in the row.

3rd row: Make a chain of 3 stitches, take up 2 loops in the chain, 1 loop in joining-place and 1 loop in the 1st single crochet on row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain.

Next stitch: Take up 1 loop below the 1 chain, pick up 1 loop in the back of last loop in preceding stitch, 1 loop in same place as last loop in preceding stitch and 1 loop in the next single crochet on row below. Pull through as before and repeat to end of row. (12 star stitches in the row.) Now turn for every row and work on the other side.

4th row: The single crochet; make 2 stitches for each star below.

5th row: The star stitch, same as before.

6th row: The single crochet; increase 1 stitch for every 4th stitch on the row.

7th row: The star stitch, taking up the 2 last loops for the stitch in the next 2 stitches on row below.

Work 1 more row in the single crochet and increase 1 stitch for every 10th stitch. Now turn again and make 26 star stitches, same way as on preceding row, then there are about 14 plain stitches left for the neck.

Turn: Make 1 row in the single crochet and repeat back and forth until you have 6 rows in each stitch.

The turnover: Work 1 row in the star stitch on same side as last row, then turn and make 1 row in the single crochet, turn.

3rd row: A chain of 2 stitches; work 5 double crochet, with 1 chain between each double crochet in every 4th stitch on row below.

4th row: Make a chain of 3 stitches and 1 single crochet between every double crochet on row below. This will finish the front.

Make 2 rows in the star stitch at bottom of hood; work a little tight and have about 23 stars in the row, then make 1 row in the single crochet.

Line hood with silk, same color as the ribbon. Cut a straight piece 5×15 inches for front and a square piece 5½ inches for back. Trim off the corners (cut off a little more on one corner for bottom), and sew pieces together. Put lining in; then make a pretty bow for each side of hood and sew on ribbon ties.

Infant’s Little Marguerite Hood — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

56
For detail see Purled Afghan Stitch, page 36
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown, 2 skeins
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 4
BLYDA Rope Silk—2 skeins blue
3½ yards Ribbon, 1 inch wide
Illustration — Infant’s Little Marguerite Hood — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This hood is crocheted with white yarn. Little daisies are embroidered on the turnover and blue ribbon is used for trimming.

Start on the turnover. Make a chain of 80 stitches.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain; put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Pick up the loops in the back of the loops on 1st row; put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time. Repeat 2nd row.

Make 11 rows for the turnover; then break off the yarn.

Next row: Leave 8 stitches (or loops) at end of turnover, fasten the yarn, make 1 chain and take up 1 loop in the 9th stitch on preceding row. Put yarn over hook, pull through 1 loop; yarn over and pull through last loop.

Repeat this stitch in every loop in preceding row, with exception of taking 2 loops together 5 times.

Leave 8 loops at end of row (same as in beginning), make 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up in the double stitch on row below. Repeat 2nd row.

Work forward and back for 17 rows.

Leave 22 stitches on each side and work on 15 stitches in middle. Increase 1 stitch on each side of row, for 4 rows. Work 11 rows. Decrease 1 stitch on each side of row, for 3 rows.

Sew together. Make 1 row in the double crochet at bottom of hood; have 1 chain between each double crochet, taking up in every other row and every other stitch. This row is for the ribbon.

Work 5 rows, same as on turnover, in the purled Afghan stitch. Join both ends to turnover. Finish off edge all around with 1 row in the slip stitch (see first stitches, pages 8–9).

Work 4 Marguerites on turnover 1½ inches apart.

Marguerite: Start in center, make a loop stitch about ⅝ of an inch in length and repeat the same stitch all around.

Make 2 bows of ribbon, place them on the turnover and fasten them through hood.

Pull ribbon through at bottom and have the ends long enough to tie.

Infant’s Crocheted Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

57
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss—4 skeins white
1 skein colored
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
3⅔ yards Satin Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Infant’s Crocheted Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

Begin yoke on the back with white yarn. Make a chain of 46 stitches.

1st row: Pick up with the hook 1 loop in each stitch on the chain. Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up in the loops on row below.

3rd row: Pick up 3 loops; leave the yarn, * take up 4th loop with pink yarn and make a double crochet in the loop below on 2nd row from top. The next 3 loops in white and repeat from * to end of row. Repeat these 3 rows, alternating the double crochet.

Continue this pattern for the whole yoke. Work 13 rows to neck. Have 14 stitches for each shoulder. Finish off the stitches at neck with a chain (taking up in the loops). Start on one shoulder and work 3 rows. Keep the side for armhole straight and increase at neck 1 stitch for every 2nd row 6 times, then work 4 rows and finish off the last row with a chain.

Make other side to correspond.

Begin next row on left side front of yoke. Start in 1st stitch on front edge, and make a chain of 3 stitches. Make 1 double crochet in next stitch on row below, then repeat with 1 chain and 1 double crochet in every other stitch on row below. Make 10 double crochet on front side. Add a chain of 16 stitches for armhole. Work 23 double crochet on back and then same as before for next armhole and front side. This row will make the beading for the ribbon.

Next row, on same side, start in the chain on front edge and make a chain of 2 stitches. Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop between the chain and 1st double crochet on row below. Yarn over and take up another loop between 1st and 2nd double crochet on row below. Yarn over and pull through all on needle at once, and make 1 chain. This is the stitch for jacket.

Next, make 1 heavy stitch: Put yarn over hook and take the next double crochet below on your needle from right to left. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop, yarn over, take up another loop in same place and repeat this 3 times more, yarn over and pull through all on needle and make 1 chain. Make 7 stitches same as 1st one, then 1 heavy stitch. On the chain make 7 58stitches and 1 heavy. On back 7, 1 heavy, 7, 1 heavy, and 7. On next chain 1, heavy, and 7. On front 1 heavy, then 7, 1 heavy and 1 stitch, the last one. Repeat this row until you have 10 rows.

Work next row the same in pink yarn, increasing 1 stitch in the middle of each panel. Make 2 rows in white, 1 row in pink and 1 row in white.

Finish off the sides and bottom with shells of 6 double crochet with a picot in center of shell and 1 single crochet between.

The Picot: Make a chain of 3 stitches, take up in the 2 loops below chain on 3rd double crochet and pull through.

On yoke take up 2 short loops, leaving 1 stitch between on row below, yarn over and pull through. A chain of 2 stitches and repeat taking up in same and 2nd stitch on row below.

Sleeve: Start on the chain. Make 7 stitches on top of the 7 stitches below. 1 heavy stitch on top of the heavy one below. Then 7, 1 heavy, 7 and 1 heavy on top of the heavy one below and connect. Work 10 rows.

Then work 1 row in pink, 2 in white, 1 in pink and 1 in white. Make last row same as on bottom of jacket.

Draw ribbon through beading on front pieces and back. Tie a small bow on each end of ribbon.

On sleeve put ribbon through 4th row from edge and tie a small bow. In front on both sides, leave 1 end of the bow long enough to tie.

Infant’s Crocheted Dress — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

59
For details see Old Afghan Stitch, page 27, and Purled Afghan Stitch, page 36
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
7 skeins white
3 skeins red
1 skein green
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 5
4 Pearl Buttons
Illustration — Infant’s Crocheted Dress — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This little dress is crocheted with white yarn in the Old Afghan Stitch and trimmed in red and green. A cross stitch pattern is embroidered in front of dress, around sleeves and at the bottom.

Begin on front part at bottom of gown, use white yarn and make a chain of 92 stitches.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain (92 loops on needle), * put yarn over hook, pull through 1 loop and repeat from * to end of row. (Pick up the loops loosely and pull through rather tight.)

2nd row: Same as 1st row, with exception of taking up the loops through the loops on preceding row in front. Repeat 2nd row.

Make 13 rows.

Start decreasing. Pick up 14 loops, decrease 1 (take 2 loops together as 1), pick up 15, decrease 1, 24, decrease 1, 15, decrease 1, then pick up the last 15 loops and pull through as before.

Make 4 rows.

Repeat the decreasing row, always having 24 loops between the decreasings in center of row, then it will be 2 loops less between the decreasings on the sides and 2 loops less toward the edges for each decreasing row. Make 3 rows between for each time and decrease 6 times more.

Make 2 rows. Add 22 stitches on each side for the sleeves. Make 3 rows, decrease 2 stitches same as before at the center of row, leaving the 24 loops between. Make 5 rows and repeat the last decreasing. Make 1 row.

Pick up 35 loops on the next row (36 on needle) and make 6 rows for the shoulders and sleeve. Break off the yarn and finish the other side the same.

Border—1st row: Use the red yarn, pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain at bottom of front part (92 loops on needle) and pull through same as before (pick up the loops loosely and pull through easy).

2nd row: Same as 1st row, with exception of taking up the loops through the loops on preceding row from the back. Repeat the 2nd row, the Purled Afghan Stitch.

Make 8 rows. Finish off last row with 1 row in the slip stitch, taking up through the loops in the back.

Last row, on wrong side of work: (Make last row after the sides are put together.)

Make 1 single crochet (always taking up in double stitch), a chain of 3 stitches and another single crochet in same stitch on preceding row, skip 2 stitches and repeat.

Finish off border at top with 1 row in the green: Make the single crochet with 1 stitch in every loop of the 1st row in the white, having the white part of the work toward you.

Make the back same as the front, with exception of making an opening to button at neck. Make 36 rows on back, then pick up half of the loops on the row and finish one side, then the other. Crochet 1 row with white in the single crochet around opening in back, making 3 buttonholes on one side (make 1 chain and skip 1 stitch for each buttonhole).

Embroider a cross stitch pattern in red 601½ inches wide and 5 or 6 inches long in front of dress below neck and outline it in green with 1 row in the single crochet, taking up in the loops of the Afghan Stitch. Make a cross stitch pattern in red around bottom of gown ½ inch above border.

Join at the shoulders: Put back and front together with wrong side out and join with the slip stitch, taking up through the loops from the right side (take 1 loop from each edge on the hook, put yarn over, pull through and repeat).

Cuff: Use red yarn and pick up 1 loop in each stitch at bottom of sleeve (pick up loosely and pull through a little tight). Make cuff exactly the same as border at bottom of dress. Make 6 rows in the Purled Afghan Stitch. Embroider a narrow cross stitch pattern in red above cuff. Collar: Make collar same as cuff; pick up 1 loop in each stitch around neck, decrease 1 stitch in each corner (4) for every row and make 5 rows. Make a buttonhole on one end of collar same way as before.

Sew gown together on wrong side and put the buttons on.

Holder for the Belt: Make a chain of 12 stitches and make 2 rows in the single crochet.

Make 4 holders. Fasten 2 in front and 2 in back 5 inches above border.

Belt: Use red yarn and make a chain of 140 stitches. Make 5 rows in the Purled Afghan Stitch and finish off last row with the slip stitch. Put belt through holders and join to a circle. Make 1 row with green in the single crochet around both sides of belt.

Baby Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

61
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—5 skeins white
OUR SPECIAL Crochet Silk—1 spool
Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
1¾ yards Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Baby Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white yarn and blue crochet silk.)

In this dainty jacket is shown something entirely new in design, and worked in this ingenious and pretty stitch, it will certainly appeal to all lovers of artistic crocheting.

Begin at neck and make a chain about 18 inches long.

1st row: Start in 4th stitch from needle and work 3 double crochet, 1 in each stitch on the chain, then make 2 double crochet, both in the next stitch on the chain.

These 2 last double crochet in 1 stitch on the chain will start 1 rib every time they are repeated. Now * work 2 double crochet, 1 in each stitch on the chain, and 2 double crochet both in the next stitch on the chain and repeat from * until you have started 29 ribs. End 1st row with 3 double crochet, make 1 chain and break off the yarn.

2nd row: Start in the chain on 1st row, make a new chain of 3 stitches and work the end of yarn in. Make 3 double crochet above the 3 double crochet on 1st row, take up in double stitch and repeat the same start for every row.

Start with the rib: * Work 3 double crochet over the 2nd double crochet of the 2 in 1 stitch on the chain, on 1st row; turn the work a little downward and work over the stitch from the side. Make 3 double crochet above the next 2 double crochet on 1st row and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Same as 2nd, work 3 double crochet above the 3 plain double crochet on row below, and make the 3 double crochet for the rib over the 3rd double crochet on rib below.

Increase on this row 2 ribs for each sleeve, between the 7th and 8th ribs and 8th and 9th ribs from front.

To increase: Make 2 double crochet in the 1st double crochet of the 3 double crochet between the ribs. Start the rib with 2 double crochet over the 2nd double crochet of the 3 between the ribs and then make 2 double crochet in the 3rd double crochet of the 3 between the ribs.

4th row: On this row increase 4 more ribs for the sleeves.

62Work 6 ribs from front and increase 1 rib, then work 5 ribs and increase 1 more rib. Same on other side. Work on the started ribs in preceding row same as on 2nd row from start.

Make 8 rows from neck.

9th row: Work 5 ribs from front and increase 1 rib, then 9 ribs and increase 1 more rib. Same on other side.

12th row: Work 6 ribs and 2 double crochet. Add a chain of 7 stitches for 2 new ribs under the arm, and skip 9 ribs for the sleeve; make 2 double crochet, then 11 ribs on back and repeat same on other side.

Work 8 rows and start the border in the same stitch.

1st row, in silk: Work loose and same as before, increase 1 rib between every other rib on row below and repeat to end of row.

Next row, use yarn.

3rd row, in silk, and 4th row, with yarn.

Make a chain of 3 stitches and a slip stitch for each row, on the edge of right side front, to make it like the other side. Work 1 row in the single crochet around neck, making 2 stitches for each rib below.

Make another row with yarn for the ribbon: Work 3 double crochet, then make 1 double crochet across, taking up below 1st double crochet of the 3. (Draw the loop in the double crochet ½ inch long.)

Skip 1 stitch on row below and repeat this stitch for the beading.

Make a scallop all around jacket.

1st row, with yarn: Make shells of 5 double crochet with 1 single crochet between. At bottom, work 1 shell between each rib and put the single crochet on the rib. On the sides, make 1 shell in every 3rd row, and at neck, begin with the single crochet, make the shell in the next stitch on row below, skip 2 stitches and repeat with the single crochet in the 3rd stitch on row below.

Last row, in silk: Put 1 single crochet, a chain of 2 stitches and another single crochet in every stitch on the shell. Make 1 single crochet between the shells.

Continue with border on the 9 ribs for sleeves. On 1st row increase 1 rib between every rib, then work border as before, and put scallop around.

Pull ribbon through beading and tie a bow at top of each sleeve in front.

Infant’s Knitted Helmet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

63
For details see Designs in Knitting Plain and Purling, pages 12–13
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—3 skeins
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 5, Style 1
Illustration — Infant’s Knitted Helmet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 56 stitches. Knit plain back and forth. 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit 28 ribs, break the yarn and leave the stitches on your needle.

Work another piece same as 1st one. Now you have 112 stitches in all; divide them up on 3 needles, join and work in a circle. Knit 2, purl 2 and repeat this for the neck, for 25 rows. In the middle of one part of the cape leave 28 stitches on needle and have the rest of the stitches, 84, on another needle. Repeat on this last needle, and knit plain back and forth for 45 ribs.

Bind off on each side 28 stitches—then you have 28 stitches left on needle. Continue plain knitting for 28 ribs and leave the stitches on needle. This last part makes the top of the helmet. Sew together on both sides.

Pick up 45 stitches on each side (1 stitch for each rib) and join with the other needles to a circle. Start on needle at neck and repeat, knit 2, purl 2 for 20 rows.

Crochet scallop around cape. Start with 1 single crochet, * a chain of 3 stitches, make 2 double crochet in 1st stitch on the chain, make a single crochet and repeat from *.

Infant’s Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

64
For detail see First Stitches Crocheting, pages 10–11
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss—1 skein
OUR SPECIAL Crochet Silk—1 spool
1 5-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
1¾ Yards Ribbon, ⅓ inch wide
Illustration — Infant’s Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

These little baby bootees are made of white floss, with a narrow row of pink silk between the wide rows of floss, and are trimmed with ribbon.

Begin at top and make a chain of 33 stitches. Join to a ring; make a chain of 3 stitches and work 1st row in the double crochet (draw up loop ⅓ of an inch in the double crochet).

2nd row: Work with silk in the single crochet and take up in the double stitch.

3rd row: A chain of 3 stitches, make 1 double crochet in 3rd stitch from chain on row below. Make another double crochet across 1st one in 1st stitch from chain.

Repeat this stitch, making 1st double crochet in 2nd stitch from preceding stitch and the other double crochet across 1st one and in same place as preceding stitch.

4th row: Work the single crochet in silk as before.

Repeat 3rd and 4th rows 3 times more with exception of the increasing for foot. Start increasing for foot on the 3rd row of the single crochet: Have the joining in the back, and then in front make 2 single crochet in each stitch on row below, 6 times—that increases 6 stitches. On next row of the single crochet increase 12 stitches in front the same way as before.

On 5th row of the single crochet increase same as before, 12 stitches in front.

Make the last row in double crochet, same as 1st row at top.

For the sole make 2 rows in the double crochet with decreasing at toe and heel.

1st row: Make a chain of 3 stitches, then make 3 double crochet, 1 in each stitch below, leaving the last loop for each double crochet on needle. Put yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops. Yarn over and pull through last loop. At the toe make 6 double crochet same way and pull through first 6 loops, then last loop. At end of row, same as in beginning.

2nd row: Decrease same as on 1st row, with 4 double crochet at the ends of row and 8 double crochet at the toe.

Join in back and bottom with the slip stitch.

Around edge of sole make a row in the slip stitch in silk, taking up in the single stitch on edge. Finish off the top with 1 row in silk: * Make 2 single crochet with a chain of 2 stitches between in 1 stitch on row below.

Make 1 chain and 1 single crochet in next stitch on row below, 1 chain and repeat from *.

For trimming: Draw ribbon through 3rd and 5th rows in the floss from top and tie small bows in front.

Ribbed Baby Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

65
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—2 skeins
OUR SPECIAL Crochet Silk—1 spool
1 5-inch bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
¾ yard of Ribbon—½ inch wide
Illustration — Ribbed Baby Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

These little bootees are made of white yarn in a pretty stitch. The ribs are worked lengthwise on the upper part of the bootees and crosswise on the feet. The little touch of pink or blue silk between the ribs is very effective.

Begin with the yarn and make a chain of 19 stitches.

1st row: Take up with silk, 1 loop in each stitch on the chain. Change for the yarn; put yarn over hook and pull through one loop at a time.

2nd row: Make 1 chain, * take up 2 loops, 1 in each loop on preceding row; put yarn over hook, pull through all on needle and make 1 chain. Repeat from * to end of row, turn.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row, taking up on top of the stitches on row below, turn.

4th row: Same as 1st row, taking up on top of the stitches on row below. Repeat 2nd, 3rd and 4th rows for the length of 6 inches.

Sew both ends together.

Work border at top: Make 1 single crochet, a chain of 2 stitches and 2 double crochet all in one place on a rib below. Repeat this stitch on every rib below.

Next row: Same as preceding row with exception of making the stitch in 1st double crochet on stitch below.

Work 5 rows.

Make last row in silk with 4 double crochet in the stitch.

Make beading for ribbon on other side of the ribs: Work 1 row in the double crochet making 1 stitch for each row (3 for a rib) below. (Draw up the loops ½ inch long in the double crochet.)

Now use silk and make 2 rows in single crochet taking up in double stitch.

Have the joining at back; take up 12 loops with silk in front on row below. Pull through with the yarn and repeat the pattern same as before to the length of 3 inches.

On the 3 last rows narrow 1 stitch on each side for toe.

This part makes the top of foot. Now use yarn, start with the single crochet, work around making 1 stitch for each row on top of foot. Work 4 rows always taking up in the double stitch. Count 10 stitches for the toe, then decrease 1 stitch on each side of them.

Repeat this decreasing 7 more rows, having 1 stitch less for each row between the increasings. On the last 2 rows decrease 2 stitches each time for heel.

Put the sides together with a chain stitch on wrong side.

Pull ribbon through beading and tie a small bow on the side.

Fancy Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

66
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—2 skeins
OUR SPECIAL Crochet Silk—1 spool
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
¾ yard Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Fancy Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

These dainty bootees are made of white yarn in the plain stitch. Little stitches of blue silk are worked in all over the top like stars. A pretty scallop finishes off the top and a blue ribbon is put on to tie them at the ankle.

Begin at top and make a chain of 45 stitches.

Make 1st row in the single crochet. You will have 44 stitches in all on the chain.

In making the single crochet take up from preceding row as follows: Put hook through top of stitch below and through loop below top in back of stitch below.

2nd row: Join by putting next single crochet on top of 1st single crochet on 1st row.

Make 3 more single crochet, then * start with the blue silk and take up 3 loops, 1 in each stitch on row below. Yarn over and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain.

Start with the yarn and make 1 single crochet in same place as preceding stitch. Make 2 more single crochet and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows alternating the blue stitches. Make 20 rows.

Make next row in the double crochet (draw up the loop in the stitch ½ inch long); take up in each stitch, skip every 5th one on row below. That will decrease 9 stitches on row. This row will make the beading for the ribbon.

Work the next 2 rows with silk in the single crochet, taking up in double stitch.

Make the top of foot:

1st row: Start with yarn and take up 12 loops on needle, 1 in each stitch on row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up in the loops from row below and repeat.

3rd row: Take up 1 loop, then 3 loops in silk, 3 in yarn, 3 in silk and 1 in yarn. Pull through same as before. Repeat with the silk for every 3rd row. Next make 3 loops with silk in center of row. Work 18 rows. The next 2 rows narrow 1 stitch on each side.

67Now start with the single crochet, work around and make 1 stitch for each row on top of foot. Work 4 rows.

Count 10 stitches for toe, then decrease 1 stitch on each side of them. Repeat this 7 more rows, having 1 stitch less for each row between the decreasings.

On the last 2 rows decrease 2 stitches each time for heel. Put the sides together with a chain stitch on wrong side.

Make border at top: Start with the yarn and make 1 single crochet, then in 3rd stitch make 2 double crochet with a chain of 2 stitches between; a single crochet in 3rd stitch and repeat.

2nd row: Work with silk, make 4 double crochet in the single crochet on row below, and 1 single crochet between the 2 double crochet on row below.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row with yarn.

Last row in silk: Make 1 single crochet over the single crochet below, a chain of 2 stitches and 3 double crochet in center of the 4 double crochet below, and repeat.

Put ribbon through beading and tie a small bow on the side.

Infant’s High Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

68
For detail see Designs in Knitting and Purling, pages 12–13
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
2 skeins white
1 skein colored
3 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
1 yard of ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Infant’s High Bootees — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

These comfortable bootees are knitted in white and blue and trimmed with blue ribbon.

Use blue yarn; begin at top and cast on 54 stitches.

1st row: * Knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 3 and repeat from * to end of row. The row will end with purl 3.

2nd row: Slip 1 (always slip 1st stitch for every row), knit 2, * purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 3 and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 1st and 2nd rows for the length of 2 inches.

Begin with white yarn.

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Purl the stitches.

3rd row: * Knit 1, yarn over needle, knit 2 together and repeat from * to end of row.

4th row: Purl the stitches and purl yarn over needle as 1 stitch.

These 2 last rows make the beading for the ribbon.

5th row: Knit plain.

6th row: Purl the stitches.

7th row: Knit 1 and purl 1 to within 20 stitches (last stitch will be knitted); turn. Slip 1st stitch; purl 1, knit 1 to within 20 stitches (last stitch will be purled); turn. Slip 1; knit 1, purl 1 to within 16 stitches; turn. Work on next needle also to within 16 stitches. Now repeat, adding 4 more stitches to every needle until all the remaining stitches at each end are worked in.

Repeat the pattern (always knit the purled stitch and purl the knitted stitch) and work forward and back.

Make 2 rows.

3rd row: Decrease 1 stitch at each end of row and repeat this row every 10th row, 3 times more. Make next decreasing on the 8th row; then 2 more decreasings on the 6th row, each time.

Work 12 rows.

Now leave 12 stitches on each side and repeat pattern on 16 stitches in middle for the instep.

69Make 20 rows.

Pick up 11 stitches on each side of last knitted piece.

Put all the stitches (62) on 2 needles. Begin with the blue yarn on right side of work; knit plain 2 rows (or 1 rib).

3rd row: Knit 24 stitches, increase 1, knit 14, increase 1 and knit to end of row.

Next row knit plain.

Repeat 3rd row on each of the next 2 ribs.

Make 6 more ribs for the foot.

On the 3 last ribs decrease 1 stitch for each rib at the toe and on the last rib decrease 1 stitch at each end of the needle.

Bind off and sew together.

Finish off top with a picot edge: Make a single crochet on the top then a chain of 3 stitches; make 1 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain, another single crochet on the top and repeat.

Draw ribbon through and tie.

Infant’s Thumbless Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

70
For detail see Single Crochet, page 10
SUNLIGHT Saxony Wool
1 skein white
1 skein colored
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
¾ yards Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Infant’s Thumbless Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

These little mittens are crocheted in white. The top of border is worked in pink, and pink ribbon is used for trimming.

Make a chain of 36 stitches. Join by making 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on the chain. Work around and make 24 rows in the single crochet, always taking up in the double stitch on the row below.

Start decreasing. * Make 6 single crochet, then take up 1 loop in each of the next 2 stitches; yarn over hook, pull through as 1 single crochet and repeat from * for 3 rows. Make 4 stitches between each decreasing for 2 rows, 1 stitch between each decreasing for 1 row, then no stitch between for the last row. Draw together last 3 and 4 stitches and fasten.

Make beading for the ribbon: Work 1 chain and 1 double crochet in every other stitch; join the row.

Begin the border: Make a chain of 2 stitches; * put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in space between 2 double crochet, yarn over and take up another loop in the next space. Put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops and make 1 chain. Make 1st loop for next stitch in same space as preceding stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Make 3 rows and join each row.

4th row: Use pink yarn and make the same stitch, with the exception of making a chain of 2 stitches between each stitch.

5th row, in pink: Make 1 single crochet in space below, * a chain of 3 stitches, put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in same space; yarn over hook, take up another loop and repeat until 5 loops are taken up. Put yarn over hook and pull through the cluster, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. Make 1 single crochet in the next space and repeat from * to end of row.

Draw ribbon through and tie.

The Sunlight Child’s Outfit — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

71
For details see First Stitches Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown—15 skeins
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—3 skeins
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 3
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 4
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 4
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
14 Pearl Buttons, ½ inch
Illustration — The Sunlight Child’s Outfit — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

LEGGINGS: Use the 4-fold germantown. Cast on 64 stitches for one side. Knit 2 and purl 2. Make 2 rows.

3rd row: * Knit 6 stitches, put yarn over needle, knit 2 stitches together and repeat from * to end of row.

Next row: Knit yarn over needle as 1 stitch. These eyelets are for the cord. Repeat with knit 2 and purl 2 until you have the length of 2 inches, then knit plain. Two rows make 1 rib. Knit 33 ribs.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every rib, 11 times (42 stitches on needle).

Next row: Slip 1 (first stitch), purl 6, * knit 3, purl 7 and repeat from *, ending row with 2 purled.

2nd row: Slip 1, knit 1, * purl 3, knit 7 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Same as 1st row.

4th row: Purl the stitches.

5th row: Slip 1, purl 1, * knit 3, purl 7 and repeat from * to end of row.

6th row: Slip 1, knit 6, * purl 3, knit 7 and repeat from * to end of row.

7th row: Same as 5th row.

8th row: Purl the stitches.

These 8 rows make 1 design. Make 1½ designs more.

Next row: Slip 1, knit 5, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 10, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 6 (42 stitches).

2nd row: Slip 1, knit 3, purl 2 and knit 2, 3 times, purl 2, knit 6. Purl 2 and knit 2, 3 times, purl 2, knit 4.

Repeat these 2 rows for 22 rows. Knit 3 ribs.

Put 15 stitches from each side of work on separate needles and continue knitting on 12 stitches in center for top of foot. Make 12 ribs.

Leave the stitches on needle and pick up 12 stitches from each side on top of foot. Put all stitches on one needle and knit 3 ribs. Knit 3 more ribs, decreasing 2 stitches for each rib at toe.

Decrease 2 stitches on each side for heel, on the last 2 ribs. Make the other side to correspond.

Sew up both parts and join them by a middle seam.

Use the yarn double and crochet a chain for the cord; make it 40 inches long. Pull cord through the eyelets and put a tassel on each end of cord.

Tassel: Wind the yarn around 3 fingers, 16 times. Take out the hank; tie a thread around one side of hank and fasten to cord. Wind the yarn around a few times ½ inch below cord. Cut even at bottom.

Finish off top with a picot edge.

Picot: Make a single crochet on the edge; then make a chain of 3 stitches, a single crochet in the 2 loops below the chain, another single crochet on edge and repeat.

CAP: For this cap use the Saxony double. Cast on bone needle 100 stitches. Knit plain forward and back for the length of 10½ inches.

72Start decreasing:

1st row: Knit 1, decrease 1, that is, knit 2 stitches together as 1; knit 44, decrease 1, knit 2, decrease 1, knit 44, decrease 1, knit 1.

2nd row: Knit plain.

3rd row: Same as 1st row.

Decrease, as above, every other row until you have 16 stitches left, then break off the yarn and put all stitches on same strand. Put cord with tassel on it in between and draw together. Sew the sides together. Turn up bottom 2½ inches.

Tassel: Wind the yarn over a piece of cardboard 7 inches long about 20 times. Have the cord from top of cap 3½ inches long. Place the end of cord in the middle of yarn loops and tie around. Now let the yarn loops come over to one side (then they cover up the end of cord) and wind around with one thread 6 times ½ inch below cord. Cut even at bottom.

COAT: This coat is worked lengthwise. Use the 4-fold germantown.

Begin on left side front and cast on 95 stitches.

Knit plain forward and back, 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit for the length of 5 inches. Add 5 stitches at neck and knit for the length of 4 inches. Bind off 20 stitches for armhole. Knit 3 ribs.

Add 20 stitches on back and knit for the length of 12 inches for back. Make the other front to correspond.

After binding off 5 stitches at neck, knit 4 ribs and make a buttonhole: Knit 5 stitches from neck on the next row; bind off 3 stitches, add 3 and repeat knitting.

Work until there are 4 ribs left on front side, then make 1 row with buttonholes. Start at neck. Knit 5 stitches, bind off 3, add 3 stitches and repeat knitting for 3 inches; make another buttonhole and repeat until 6 buttonholes are made. Knit 4 ribs and bind off.

Sleeve: Cast on 30 stitches and knit 1 rib. Add 10 stitches for each rib, 3 times (60 stitches, length of sleeve).

Work forward and back for the length of 8 inches, then bind off 10 stitches, 3 times, in same order as you added.

Knit the following with steel needles:

Collar: Cast on 95 stitches. Knit 9 ribs and bind off. Make a buttonhole on one end of collar.

Cuffs: Cast on 35 stitches. Knit for the length of 6 inches and bind off.

Belt: Cast on 12 stitches. Knit for the length of 28 inches or length desired. Make a buttonhole and bind off. Knit 3 straps for the belt: Cast on 4 stitches and knit 12 ribs.

Sew garment together and put sleeves in, having the seam of sleeve in middle of side on garment.

Sew cuff together and put on sleeve, holding the sleeve a little full all around.

Put collar on, starting where the buttonholes are. The collar measures 12 inches. Sew 4½ inches of collar to front part, 1 inch to shoulder, 4½ inches to back, 1 inch to the other shoulder and 1 inch to the other front part. Sew button on and let collar lap over 1 inch.

Fasten the straps with both ends to garment. Put one in each side 6½ inches below armhole and one in back, then pull belt through.

Put facing under the buttonholes and finish them up.

Sew buttons on. Have 1st button in 2nd row on same front as the others. Put button through the buttonhole made, then sew on the buttons in 2nd row to correspond with 1st row.

Cut a buttonhole where last button should be and button the same way as at neck.

Infant’s Band with Shoulder Straps — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

73
SUNLIGHT Saxony Wool—2 skeins
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
2 Small Pearl Buttons
Illustration — Infant’s Band with Shoulder Straps — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 132 stitches (on 3 needles). Join and work around.

Knit 2 and purl 2 for the length of 8 inches.

Bind off to within 52 stitches, then knit 10 stitches for the strap. Take another needle and knit the 10 stitches plain, forward and back, for the length of 4½ inches.

Make the buttonhole.

1st row: Knit 3 stitches, knit 2 together as 1, put yarn around needle twice, knit 2 together, knit 3.

Next row: Knit 1st thread on needle as 1 stitch, knit 2nd thread on needle from the back as 1 stitch. Make 4 more ribs and bind off.

Bind off the remaining stitches to within 10 and make the other strap.

Finish edge all around with 1 chain and 1 single crochet in every 3rd stitch and every 2nd rib.

For the pinning piece at lower edge of front pick up 16 stitches; knit forward and back to the length of 1 inch. Knit 2 more ribs, decreasing 2 stitches on each end; bind off.

Infant’s Abdominal Band — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

74
SUNLIGHT Saxony
2 skeins white
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Infant’s Abdominal Band — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 136 stitches.

Work forward and back.

Knit 2, purl 2; repeat this for the length of 2 inches.

Knit plain on both sides for the length of 4 inches, then knit 2 and purl 2 for 2 inches.

Bind off. Sew together.

Nursing Bottle Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

75
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown 1 skein
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 4
¾ yards Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Nursing Bottle Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Begin at bottom with a chain of 2 stitches.

1st row: Make 8 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain. Join 1st row and start 2nd row by making 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on 1st row.

Work around, always taking up in the double stitch on the row below.

2nd row: Make 2 single crochet in each stitch on 1st row.

3rd row: Make 2 single crochet in every other stitch.

4th row: Make 2 single crochet in every 3rd stitch, until there are 35 stitches around.

Now work plain 29 rows (or 5¼ inches) for the length of the cover.

Make beading for the ribbon: * Make 1 double crochet, 1 chain, skip one stitch on row below and repeat from *.

Finish top with a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every stitch.

Draw ribbon through and tie.

Infant’s Pine Stitch Afghan — MATERIALS. — INSTRUCTIONS

76
With Cross Stitch Stripe
Size, 1 Yard Square

For details see Pine Stitch, page 40, and Old Afghan Stitch, page 27

SUNLIGHT Eight-fold Germantown, 7 skeins colored
SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown, 9 skeins white, 1 skein each of 2 medium shades of green, 1 skein tan, 1 skein light blue
10 skeins darker blue BLYDA Rope Silk
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 6
Illustration — Infant’s Pine Stitch Afghan — MATERIALS. — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

This little Afghan is made up of 7 panels. The blue panel is worked in the Pine Stitch and a vine of violets is embroidered in cross stitch on the white panel. A pretty lace border finishes off the edge.

Begin with the blue panel, use No. 6 hook and make a chain of 17 stitches (a little tight).

1st row: Start in 2nd stitch from hook and * pick up 3 long loops, 1 in each stitch on the chain. Take up a short loop in the next stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop. Repeat from * ending row with the short loop and another loop pulled through as before. Now put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, * yarn over pull through 1 loop (of those picked up) yarn over hook pull through 3 loops (of those picked up) and repeat from * to end of row; make 1 chain tight.

2nd row: * Take up 1 long loop in 1st space on preceding row, take up another long loop on top of the 3 loops below and a 3rd loop in next space. Pick up a short loop through the short loop below top chain, put yarn over hook pull through 1 loop and repeat from *. Pick up the short loop at end of row in 2nd chain stitch on the side of panel and pull through another loop. Now put yarn over hook and pull through same as on 1st row.

Repeat 2nd row for the length of 31 inches. Finish off last row of the panel with 1 row in the slip stitch (see First Stitches). There will be 17 stitches across.

Make 4 panels.

Start the white panel, use No. 4 hook and make a chain of 32 stitches.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain (32 loops on needle), put yarn over hook pull through 1 loop (of those picked up) at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up the loops in front from the loops on preceding row.

Repeat 2nd row for the length of 31 inches. Finish off last row with 1 row in the slip stitch, taking up in the loops. Make 1 row in white on each side of the panel: * Make a single crochet on the edge, then make a double crochet, taking up from below in 3rd loop from top and repeat from *.

Embroider in cross stitch a vine of violets on the white panel, using the assorted colors of 4-fold Germantown, and the Blyda rope silk.

Make 3 panels.

Join the panels in white. Place both panels together having the right sides out and the blue panel toward you. Make 1 row in the single crochet, taking up in every stitch on both edges, with the exception of making 2 stitches in about every 6th stitch on edge of the blue panel.

77Border: 1st row in white: Make 1 row in the single crochet all around. Take up in every stitch on the ends of the Afghan and make 2 single crochet in every 4th stitch on the sides of Afghan.

2nd row in white: Make the double crochet, taking up in double stitch on 1st row. Have the corners full enough.

3rd row in white: Make a chain of 2 stitches and a single crochet in every 3rd stitch on preceding row.

4th row in white: * Make 2 double crochet, a chain of 2 stitches and 2 more double crochet in 1 space on preceding row. Make 1 chain and a single crochet in the stitch between 1st and 2nd space from the group. Make 1 chain, skip 1 space and repeat from * to end of row.

5th row in white: Same as preceding row.

Last row in blue: Make a slip stitch across the single crochet between the scallops on 3rd row. Make a chain of 3 stitches and a slip stitch above to right side of scallop over the 1 chain and repeat the same on next row above. Make a chain of 3 stitches and * a double crochet in space on top of scallop, then make a chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet over the double crochet and repeat from * until you have 4 double crochet in the space and 4 picots.

Make the other side of the scallop to correspond.

Little Rose Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

78
For Detail see Star Stitch, page 28 and Old Afghan Stitch, page 27
SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown
10 Skeins white
10 Skeins colored
1 Celluloid Crochet Hook, No. 100
BLYDA Rope Silk, 3 dozen skeins
Illustration — Little Rose Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for pink and white.)

This little blanket is made up of 3 white panels with pink border all around, and a pattern of climbing wild roses and green leaves is worked with cross stitches from one end of panel to the other.

Start with white yarn and make a chain of 35 stitches.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, 35 loops in all on needle. Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up in the loops from row below and pull through same as on 1st row. Repeat this row for the length of 28½ inches. Make 2 more panels in white like this one.

Begin with pink yarn and start border on the side of one panel.

1st row: Start at the corner with a chain of 3 stitches. Take up 2 loops in the chain, then take up 1 loop in each one of the 3 first stitches. Now 6 loops on needle, put yarn over hook and pull through all at once and make 1 chain.

2nd stitch: Take up 1 loop in space below this 1 chain; pick up 1 loop in the back of last loop in preceding stitch, take up 1 loop in same place as last loop in preceding stitch, then pick up 2 more loops in the next 2 stitches on row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through all at once and make 1 chain. Repeat 2nd stitch to end of row; turn.

2nd row: A chain of 3 stitches, make 2 double crochet in 1st double stitch on star below. Make 2 more double crochet in 1st stitch on 2nd star below. Repeat this on every star to end of row, turn.

3rd row: Same as 1st row, taking up in the back of the stitches on row below. Repeat these 3 rows on other side of panel. This panel is the middle one.

On the 2 outside panels repeat these 3 rows just on the side that is to be joined to the middle panel.

Joining: Place 2 panels together. Start with pink yarn and make a loop on the hook. Put the hook through both panels in the 1st stitch on 1st star, then yarn over hook, pull through and make a chain of 2 stitches.

Next repeat this in 2nd stitch, on 1st star 79with the white yarn. Take up the pink chain on the hook and place it in front of the white chain, then put hook through both panels in 1st stitch on 2nd star, pull through and make a chain of 2 stitches. Take up the white chain, place it in front of pink chain, pull through in 2nd stitch on 2nd star and make a chain of 2 stitches. Repeat this to end of panels. Join the 2 other sides the same way.

For border all around, repeat the 3 rows already described.

Make the last row in pink and white, the same as the row for joining, with the exception of making 6 stitches in the chains and taking up once in every star.

Work a cross stitch pattern of little pink roses and green leaves for the whole length of the panels.

New Cluster Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

80
For detail see Cluster Stitch, page 33

Size 1¾×2¾ yards

SUNLIGHT Germantown—eight-fold
3 shades of one color—32 skeins dark, 32 skeins medium and 16 skeins light
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 8
Illustration — New Cluster Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This handsome robe, in its subdued color, is very restful to the eye and would certainly give great satisfaction to the maker, especially, as the work is not very difficult.

The afghan is worked in 3 shades of “old rose,” but brown or green would look well also, in case those colors should be preferred.

It is made up of 9 panels, 5 fancy ones in the light and medium shades and 4 plain ones in the dark shade. A heavy fringe is put on the ends of the robe, so each panel gets its own shade.

Work the dark panel in the cluster stitch.

Start with a chain of 32 stitches.

1st row: Draw the loop on needle half an inch long, * take up 1 loop in 2nd stitch on the chain, yarn over hook, take up another loop in same place and repeat from * to end of row.

Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 cluster at a time: at the end pull through 1st loop and make 1 chain.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, make 1 cluster between 1st loop and 1st cluster on row below, then repeat, making 1 cluster between each cluster on row below. At end of row take up 1 loop on the back of last cluster below; yarn over and pull through the loop, then repeat as before and at end of row pull through loop with the cluster and make 1 chain.

3rd row: Same as 1st row, making 1 cluster between each cluster on preceding row. Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows. Make panel 2¾ yards in length.

The fancy panel is made up of 3 stripes, 2 in the medium and 1 in the light shade.

Begin stripe with a chain of 7 stitches, pick up 6 loops, then you have 7 loops in all on needle. Put yarn over and pull through 1 loop at a time.

Next row same as 1st row, taking up in the loops on row below.

Make 1 more row.

4th row: Pick up 3 loops; then take up 1 loop in the 2nd loop from edge on 2nd row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through 2 loops. Put yarn over hook twice and take up 1 loop in 3rd loop from edge on 3rd row below, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, then yarn over and pull through 2 more loops. Repeat this last stitch 2 times more in the 4th and 5th loop on 3rd row below.

Put yarn over hook once and take up 1 loop in 2nd loop from the other edge on 2nd row below, and pull through 2 loops. 81Now yarn over hook and pull through 5 loops, 1 for each stitch and make 1 chain tight. Pick up the 3 last loops on 4th row, 7 in all, on needle, and pull through 1 at a time, same as before.

This is the design for the whole panel.

Make 2 plain rows, then repeat 4th row, so for every 3rd row you make a new cluster.

Make stripe 2¾ yards long.

Work the 2 other stripes.

Put those 3 stripes together with the chain stitch in the dark shade and place the light panel in middle.

Put this fancy panel together with the plain panel, same way in the light shade.

To connect: Place both panels together with the right side out, make a loop on the hook and * put hook through 1 loop on the edge of each panel. Yarn over and pull through all on needle at once and repeat from * to end of row.

Crochet scallops on the fancy panel on both sides of afghan. Make shells of 7 double crochet with 1 single crochet between.

Make a fringe 5 inches long and let the ends of each panel be fringed in its own shade. Cut the threads for fringe 24 inches in length. Take 1 end and double up 2 times, put the loops through edge with the crochet hook, then draw ends through loops and tighten.

Infant’s Double Hook Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

82
Size 1 yard square

For detail see Double Hook Afghan Stitch, page 27

SUNLIGHT eight-fold Germantown
16 skeins white
1 skein colored
1 Amber double-end Crochet Hook, No. 5
Illustration — Infant’s Double Hook Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

Wind the yarn into 2 balls. Use 1 ball and make a chain 32 inches long.

1st row: Pick up with the hook 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up the loops same as on 1st row in front on row below. Use the other ball and with the other hook pull through 1 loop at a time.

3rd row: Pick up the loops same as before with the same hook, then pull through with 1st hook and ball and repeat. Make the piece square.

Make the slip stitch (see first stitches) in the loops of the last row.

Work 1 row in the single crochet on both ends of afghan, making 2 stitches for each rib.

Border: 1st row in white: Make a loop on the hook, then * pick up 2 loops on the edge, 1 in each stitch, put yarn over hook, pull through all on needle (3 loops) and make a chain of 2 stitches. Skip 1 stitch on the edge and repeat from * to end of row, making it full enough in the corners.

2nd row, in blue: * Make a shell of 6 double crochet in a space on preceding row. Make 1 chain, take up 1 loop in 1st and 1 loop in 2nd space from shell; yarn over hook, pull through all on needle and make 1 chain. Repeat from * to end of row, making the shell larger in the corners.

3rd row, in white: Make a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every stitch on the shell, taking up in double stitch. Make a slip stitch between the shells.

Infant’s Roman Stripe Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

83
For details see Star Stitch, page 28, and Double Hook Afghan Stitch, page 27
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—9 skeins pink, 9 skeins white, 1 skein blue and 1 skein green
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 5
1 Amber Double-End Crochet Hook,
No. 5
Illustration — Infant’s Roman Stripe Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Start with pink yarn and make a chain 36 inches. Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain; put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

Begin with the star stitch, taking up in the back of the loops on preceding row.

1st row: Make a chain of 3 stitches; take up 2 loops in the chain, then pick up 3 loops, 1 in each loop, on preceding row. Put yarn over hook and pull through all at once. Always pick up 5 loops and with the 1 on your needle you pull through 6.

2nd stitch: * Make 1 chain; take up 1 loop in space below this chain, pick up 1 loop in the back of last loop in preceding stitch. Take up 1 loop in same place as preceding stitch, then take up 2 more loops in the next 2 loops on row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through all at once and repeat from * to end of row. At end of row make a chain of 2 stitches, break off the yarn and pull the end tight.

2nd row: Same as 1st row; start in the chain on edge and make a chain of 3 stitches. Take up 2 loops in the chain, 1 loop in the back of 1st stitch on star below. Take up 4th loop through 2nd stitch on star below and 5th loop in the back of 1st stitch on 2nd star below. Pull through and repeat same as before.

Make 6 rows with the star stitch.

To make the pattern look well each star must come exactly above the other.

Start the next stripe with white yarn on wrong side of work and use the double-end hook.

1st row: Pick up 2 loops for each star below, taking up in the double stitch. Put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up the loops in front of the loops on preceding row. Start with blue yarn on the other end of row, use the other hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

3rd row: Pick up the loops in front of the loops on preceding row. Break off the yarn, start on the other end of row, use the other hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

4th row: Same as 2nd row, only starting with the white yarn.

845th row: Same as 3rd row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows, making 1 rib in green and 1 rib in pink.

Make 6 rows in the star stitch with white yarn, then 5 ribs with the double-end hook as before in pink, green, white, blue and white.

Repeat these 4 stripes, until you have the blanket square.

Fasten the ends on the sides and make a row with the star stitch in white all around the blanket.

Start the scallop in white. Make a shell of 6 double crochet (draw up the loops long). Then make 1 single crochet in 3rd star from the shell, another single crochet in the next star, the shell of 6 double crochet in the 3rd star and repeat.

(Make 8 double crochet in the corners.) Work last row in pink: Take up 1 loop on each side of a double crochet. Put yarn over hook and pull through at once. Make a chain of 3 stitches and repeat, taking up 1 loop in same place as the last one and the other loop on the other side of the double crochet.

Infant’s Double Star Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

85
Size, 1 yard square

For detail see Double Star Stitch, page 44

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
7 skeins white
5 skeins colored
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
4½ yards Ribbon, 1½ inches wide
Illustration — Infant’s Double Star Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

This little Afghan is worked in stripes and ribbon is pulled through the edge all around.

Begin with the white yarn and make a chain 33 inches long.

1st row: Start in 2nd stitch from needle and pick up 5 loops, 1 in each stitch on the chain. Put yarn over hook, pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. 2nd stitch: * Take up 1 loop in space below the 1 chain, pick up another loop in the back of last loop of preceding stitch and 1 loop in same place as preceding stitch, then pick up 2 more loops, 1 in each of the next 2 stitches on the chain (6 loops on needle). Put yarn over hook, pull through all on needle at once, make 1 chain and repeat from *, ending row with a double crochet, turn.

2nd row: Make a chain of 2 stitches; take up 1 loop in the chain, 1 loop in the double crochet and 2 loops, 1 in each stitch on star below. Put yarn over hook, pull through and make 1 chain. Always have 4 loops to the 1st star. Make 2nd row same as 1st row, taking up in the double stitch. Repeat 2nd row for the work. 2 rows make 1 rib.

* Make 2 ribs in white, 1 rib in pink, 1 in white, 1 in pink and repeat from *.

Border: 1st row in white: Work the double crochet all around, making 5 stitches for each rib on the sides. Put 5 stitches in 1 place in the corners.

2nd row, in white: Make 1 chain and 1 treble crochet (see first stitches) in every other stitch on preceding row, taking up in the double stitch. Increase a little in the corners. This row is for the ribbon.

3rd row, in white: Make a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every space on preceding row.

4th row, in pink: Make shells of 6 double crochet in every 4th space on preceding row and make 2 single crochet in center space between the shells.

5th row, in white: Make a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every stitch on the shell, taking up in double stitch. Make a slip stitch between the shells.

Pull ribbon through loosely and fasten in a few places.

Slumber Robe — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

86
For detail see Robe Stitch, page 36

Size 54×64 inches

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—60 skeins
6 shades of one color
20 skeins of lightest shade and 8 skeins of each of the other shades
BLYDA Rope Silk according to pattern
1 Celluloid Crochet Hook, No. 100
Illustration — Slumber Robe — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for six shades in brown.)

This slumber robe is made of 5 panels—3 shaded and 2 plain ones. The plain panels are make in the lightest shade of brown and decorated with a simple cross stitch pattern in the medium shade of brown rope silk.

Start with the lightest shade and make a chain of 48 stitches for the plain panel.

Take up with the hook 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, 48 stitches in all on needle; then put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Take up in the loops from row below and pull through same as on 1st row. Repeat 2nd row for the length of 60 inches. Make another panel like this one.

Work the shaded panel lengthwise. Begin with the darkest shade and make 1 row of single crochet along the side of one of the light panels, turn.

2nd row: Work this row same as preceding row in the single crochet, taking up in the double stitch; make 1 chain, turn.

3rd row: Make 1 single crochet; put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop below in 1st stitch on the light panel. Put yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over hook and take up another loop in same place as 1st loop; then yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through 3 loops. Skip 1 stitch on row below for this Robe stitch and make 3 single crochet, 1 in each stitch.

Repeat 1 robe stitch and 3 single crochet to end of row; make 1 chain, turn.

4th row: The single crochet; make 1 chain, turn.

5th row: Make 3 single crochet; then repeat 3rd row, alternating the robe stitches and making them in the single crochet, below, on 3rd row from top (take up from right to left in the single crochet). Repeat 4th and 5th rows for the whole panel.

Begin with next shade lighter on 7th row. Repeat with 4 rows for each shade until you come to the lightest shade, which will be the middle of the panel, then reverse the shades. Work the last row of panel in the single crochet.

Make another shaded panel like this one on other side of plain panel, and let the row with the robe stitches be the last row on that panel; then sew same panel together with 2nd plain one. Start 3rd shaded panel same as before on other side of the 2nd plain panel.

87For border all around afghan, make 4 rows of shells and for each row change for the next darker shade.

1st row: Begin with shade next to the lightest and make shells of 6 double crochet, with 1 single crochet between.

Work the 6 double crochet all in one place over one row below, and make the single crochet 4 stitches from the shell in the double stitch on top of row below.

2nd row: Work on same side of afghan, make the shell in the single crochet on row below, and work the single crochet on top of the shell on row below.

3rd row: Same as 2nd.

4th row: Make 7 double crochet in the shells.

Finish off the shells all around with 1 row in the darkest shade: Take up 1 short loop on each side of a double crochet, yarn over and pull through at once. Make a chain of 2 stitches and repeat taking up in same place as last loop and on other side of the double crochet.

Make a cross stitch pattern in medium shade of brown rope silk on the plain panel.

Little Daisy Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

88
For details see Old Afghan Stitch, page 27
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
10 skeins white
10 skeins colored
BLYDA Rope Silk—½ dozen skeins yellow
1 Celluloid Crochet Hook, No. 100
Illustration — Little Daisy Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for pink, white and yellow.)

This afghan is made in strips of pink and white blocks, with a little daisy embroidered on the pink blocks.

Begin with the white yarn and make a chain of 25 stitches.

1st row: Take up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain (25 loops in all on needle), put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Pick up the loops in the loops on 1st row; put yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops, 1 at a time. * Make a chain of 2 stitches; yarn over and pull through 2 loops, 1 at a time, and repeat from * until you have 5 knots. Put yarn over hook and pull through 3 loops, 1 at a time, in center of row. Make the 5 knots and finish the row.

3rd row: Plain, same as 1st row. Make every other row plain. Repeat 2nd row between the plain rows, with the exception of making 2 knots less in center for each row, until there is 1 knot on each side of row. The next plain row will be the center row in the block.

Reverse the pattern. Make the last row plain. Start next block in pink.

1st row: Plain.

2nd row: Same as 1st row with exception of taking up the loops in back of the loops in preceding row. (This row is the purled Afghan Stitch.)

3rd row: Repeat 2nd row in 1st block.

Make this block like 1st block.

Repeat with 1 block in white and 1 block in pink, until you have 32 inches or the length desired, always making the row between the blocks (the purled afghan row) in pink.

Start 2nd strip in pink and 3rd strip in white and repeat the pattern.

Work border all around afghan.

1st row, in white: Make 1 single crochet, a chain of 3 stitches and 3 double crochet all in 1 stitch on the edge. Repeat this in every 4th stitch all around.

2nd row, in pink, on wrong side of afghan: Make 1 single crochet, a chain of 3 stitches and 3 double crochet in space between the double crochet and the chain of 3 stitches in preceding row and repeat.

893rd row, in white, on right side of afghan: * Make 1 single crochet in space between the double crochet and the chain of 3 stitches in preceding row; 1 chain and 1 double crochet in the single crochet below; make 1 chain and repeat from *.

4th row, in white, on same side: Make a shell of 6 double crochet in a space below; make 1 single crochet in 2nd and 1 in 3rd space from shell. Make next shell in 2nd space from the single crochet and repeat all around.

Last row, in pink: * Take up 1 loop on each side of a double crochet in the shell; yarn over, pull through the loops, make a chain of 3 stitches and repeat from *, making the 1st loop for the next stitch in same place as preceding stitch.

Make a little daisy in white in center of each pink block: Start in center of block and make a loop stitch, 1 inch in length. Repeat until you have 12 stitches around. Use the rope silk and make a long stitch (⅝ of an inch) between each loop. Make a few French knots in center.

Infant’s Rose Bud Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

90
Size 32×40 inches

For details see First Stitches, pages 10–11 and Cross Stitch, page 17.

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
14 skeins white
2 skeins pink
1 skein green
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
Illustration — Infant’s Rose Bud Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This pretty blanket is crocheted with white yarn. The little rose buds in pink and green are worked at the same time as the background and the scallop all around is finished off with a pink edge.

Make a chain a little over 36 inches in length.

1st row: Make the single crochet for the length of 36 inches, then make 1 chain, turn.

Always make 1 chain and turn at end of every row.

2nd row: Repeat the single crochet, taking up in double stitch on preceding row.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row.

4th row: Make 12 single crochet. * Start with the green yarn and make a chain of 7 stitches (use the white and green together in the first stitch of the chain). Make 1 single crochet in the next stitch on preceding row. Take the white yarn along and work over it. Repeat a chain of 7 stitches and 1 single crochet twice in same place as preceding stitch. Use the white yarn, when pulling through the loops of the last single crochet, then break off the green yarn. Make 16 single crochet, starting in next stitch on preceding row and repeat from * to end of row.

These green loops will make the leaves for the flowers. The yarn ends are to be fastened afterwards.

5th row: Repeat the single crochet, with exception of making 1 chain instead of a single crochet in center of every group of the green loops.

6th row: Make 10 single crochet. * Turn the green loops down toward you, put the hook through first green loop and make 1 single crochet over it, taking up in next stitch on preceding row. Make 3 single crochet, 2nd one through space in back of the green loops. Make 1 single crochet over the 3rd green loop (same as 1st green loop), then make 12 single crochet and repeat from * to end of row.

7th row: Plain, or 1 single crochet in every stitch on preceding row.

8th row: Make 12 single crochet. * Start with the pink yarn and use it with the white, when pulling through the loops of the last single crochet. Make 4 double crochet through the 2nd green loop, taking up in next stitch on preceding row. Remove the hook and put it through top of first double crochet and through loop from last double crochet, then pull through with the white yarn. Break off the pink yarn. Make 16 single crochet, starting in first stitch from the bud and repeat from * to end of row.

Make 7 rows plain.

Start the flowers: 1st row: Make 4 single crochet, then begin with the green same as before.

Start the rows of the flowers with 12 and 4 single crochet, alternately.

91Make 13 rows of flowers for width of blanket, then crochet 4 rows plain (width 28 inches).

Border in white: 1st row: Crochet 1 row in the single crochet all around the blanket, making 1 stitch for every row on the sides except in a few places, where you skip one row.

2nd row: Make 1 double crochet on preceding row, then make another double crochet across first one, taking up in next stitch to the right. Make one cross in the next 2 stitches and repeat to end of row, making the crosses a little closer in the corners.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row with exception of making the cross in space on each side of cross on preceding row.

4th row: Make a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every space on preceding row.

5th row: * Make 1 single crochet in a space on preceding row and another single crochet in next space. Make a shell of 9 treble crochet in 2nd space from preceding stitch, skip 1 space and repeat from * to end of row.

Last row in pink: Make a loop on the hook, then pick up 2 loops, 1 in each stitch on the scallop; put yarn over hook and pull through, make a chain of 2 stitches, and repeat, taking up 1st loop in same place as preceding stitch and the other loop in next stitch on the scallop. Take up in every stitch on the scallops and skip the single crochet.

Indian Couch Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

92
Size 54×72 inches

For detail see Indian Afghan Stitch, page 33

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
32 skeins red, 11 skeins gray
5 skeins blue, 16 skeins black
2 Celluloid Crochet Hooks, Nos. 100 and 102
Illustration — Indian Couch Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This artistic blanket is made up of panels, closely resembling Indian work in design and colors.

Commence on the panel with design and use No. 100 hook. Start with the black yarn and make a chain of 36 stitches. Work 1st row in the single crochet (35 stitches) on the 1st row. Leave 3 stitches at end of row. Put the ends of the colored yarn together and work them in with the 3 last stitches, turn. Work the threads in as you go along and change them according to the following pattern. On 1st colored row, take up in the double stitch on row below, then take up in the back of the stitches for every row. Work the whole panel forward and back in the single crochet.

1st row in the colors: Make 1 chain, then 3 single crochet in black and take up the loop for the 4th stitch. Pull through 4th stitch with the gray. Make 7 single crochet in gray and take up the loop for the 8th stitch. Pull through with the blue, make 2 single crochet, take up the loop for the 3rd stitch and pull through with black. Make 1 single crochet in black, take up 2nd loop and pull through with red. Take up 1 loop with red and pull through with black. This 1 red is the center stitch, then reverse. Now on 1st row you have 4 single crochet in black, 8 in gray, 3 in blue, 2 in black, 1 in red for center. Then 2 in black, 3 in blue, 8 in gray and 4 in black.

2nd row: 4 black, 7 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 3 red for center.

3rd row: 4 black, 6 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 5 red for center.

4th row: 4 black, 5 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 7 red for center.

5th row: 4 black, 4 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 9 red for center.

6th row: 4 black, 3 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 11 red for center.

7th row: 4 black, 2 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 6 red, 1 black for center.

8th row: 4 black, 1 gray, 3 blue, 2 black, 6 red, 3 black for center.

9th row: 4 black, 3 blue, 2 black, 6 red, 2 black, 1 gray for center.

10th row: 4 black, 2 blue, 2 black, 6 red, 2 black, 3 gray for center.

11th row: 4 black, 1 blue, 2 black, 6 red, 2 black, 2 gray, 1 red for center.

12th row: 6 black, 6 red, 2 black, 2 gray, 3 red for center.

9313th row: 5 black, 6 red, 2 black, 2 gray, 5 red for center.

14th row: 4 black, 6 red, 2 black, 2 gray, 7 red for center.

This last row is the center row. Now you have made half of the pattern. Make the other half to correspond.

Repeat pattern for the length desired.

Work the plain panel in red with No. 102 hook. Make a chain of 33 stitches.

Take up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, 33 loops in all on hook, put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop at a time.

2nd row: Pick up the loops in the spaces between the loops on row below. Pull through same as on 1st row, taking the 2 first and the 2 last loops together as 1.

3rd row: Take up the loops same as on 2nd row in every space and then take up the last loop in the chain on edge. Pull through 1 loop at a time on this row.

Repeat these 2 last rows (2nd and 3rd) for the same length as 1st panel. Work 1 row in single crochet with gray yarn all around red panel. Work 1 stitch for each row down below and make every other stitch deep. Make another row all around, same as this, in black and let the deep stitches come between the deep gray stitches.

On panel with design, work 1 row on each side in black with the single crochet. Work a little tight and make 1 stitch for each row down below. Then work one row all around panel in gray, same as on red panel, and put the deep stitches between the ribs. Outside this make another row all around in black with the single crochet and take up in the double stitch.

Join the panels: Place the edges of 2 panels together and work as on 1; use black yarn and work with 2 threads of the yarn. Make a loop on the hook and * put through a double stitch on the edge of each panel. Yarn over hook, pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. Repeat from * in every stitch on both edges.

Work scallops in red all around blanket: * Make a shell of 7 double crochet in 1 single crochet on edge (draw up the loop long in the double crochet). Then make 1 single crochet in 4th and 1 in 5th stitch from shell and repeat from * making the shell in the 4th stitch, all around. Make the shells in the corners larger.

Last row in black: Make 1 chain and 1 single crochet in each stitch on the shell with exception of, making no chain between 2nd and 3rd stitch on each side of shell.

Pointed Couch Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

94
Size 2×2½ yards

For detail see Rib Stitch, page 17

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
4 Shades in Old Rose
4 Shades in Green
In Old Rose—4 skeins of lightest shade, 12 skeins next shade 9 skeins of darkest, 11 skeins next to darkest
In Green—4 skeins of lightest shade, 8 skeins of each of the other shades
1 Amber Crochet Hook No. 5
Illustration — Pointed Couch Blanket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This blanket in the pointed stitch, is worked in stripes, in various shades of old rose and green. A fringe is put on both ends, and the sides are finished with a scallop.

Begin with the darkest shade in Old Rose and make a chain about 3½ yards long.

1st row: * Make 20 single crochet on the chain, 1 in each stitch; then make 3 single crochet in next stitch on the chain and repeat from *. This will make 1 point; repeat until you have 16 points for width of blanket. End row with the 20 single crochet, make 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Make 2 single crochet in 1st stitch of preceding row (always taking up in back of the stitches). Now make 8 single crochet, * skip 2 stitches on preceding row, make 10 single crochet, then 3 single crochet in next stitch, make 10 single crochet and repeat from *, ending row with 2 single crochet in the last stitch; make 1 chain, turn.

Repeat 2nd row for the work. 2 rows make 1 rib. Make 1 rib in each shade. The lightest shade will make the center rib in every stripe. Make 1 stripe in Old Rose and 1 in green and repeat this for the length of 2½ yards or length desired. Work 1 row in the cross stitch on each side of blanket, using shade next to the darkest in Old Rose, and making 1 cross for each rib.

Cross stitch: Make 1 double crochet between 2 ribs, 1 chain, then make another double crochet across 1st one to right side of 1st rib.

Next row: Make shells of 6 double crochet in every 4th cross and make 1 chain, 1 single crochet and 1 chain between the shells in center cross, using shade next to the lightest, in Old Rose.

Last row: Make a loop on the hook; * take up 1 loop in 2nd and 1 loop in 3rd stitch on the shell, yarn over hook, pull through all on needle and make a chain of 3 stitches. Repeat this in the same and next stitch on the shell, making 4 stitches on the shell. Make 1 chain and 1 single crochet in 1st space, 1 chain and 1 single crochet in the next space, 1 chain and repeat 95from * to end of row. Use the darkest shade in Old Rose.

Fringe: Use the 2 medium shades in Old Rose and cut the ends for fringe 11 inches long. Take 2 ends of the yarn, double them and put the loops through a chenille needle. Put the needle down through double stitch on edge. Remove the needle, pull the ends through the loops and tighten.

Repeat, making 10 bunches of the yarn on each side of point, alternating the shades for every side.

Trim the ends of fringe.

The Fleur-de-lis Couch Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

96
Size 2½×2¼ yards

For details see Old Afghan Stitch, page 27, and Rib Stitch, page 17

SUNLIGHT eight-fold Germantown
6 shades brown
7 skeins light shade
14 skeins of each of the next 4 shades
18 skeins darkest shade
7 skeins black
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
28 skeins dark brown
2 skeins brown, light shade for cross stitch
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 6
Illustration — The Fleur-de-lis Couch Afghan — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This Afghan is made up of panels in the shades of brown; 5 panels are shaded. Fleurs-de-lis are embroidered in cross stitch on the 4 dark panels, and a scallop finishes off the edge.

Use the 6 shades of the 8-fold Germantown and No. 6 hook for the shaded panel.

This panel is made up of squares, worked in the rib stitch and joined to each other with black yarn.

Start the square in center with the 3rd shade from the lightest. Wind the yarn 10 times over your finger, then make 16 single crochet in the ring. Join 1st row by making a slip stitch in the 1st stitch.

2nd row: * Make 3 single crochet in 1 stitch on 1st row (this makes the corner) taking up in double stitch, then make 3 single crochet 1 in each stitch and repeat from * to end of row. Join as before, make 1 chain tight and break off the yarn.

3rd row: Take next shade lighter; start on wrong side of work and make 3 single crochet in the middle stitch of one corner on preceding row, always taking up in the back of the stitches. Make 1 single crochet in each stitch on the side and repeat the same increasing in next corner. Finish the row, join and make 1 chain tight.

4th row: Turn the work on the other side and start the single crochet in 2nd stitch from the chain just made. Repeat the single crochet, increase in the corners as on preceding row, join the row, make 1 chain tight and break off the yarn.

Two rows make 1 rib. Repeat this rib, using 1 shade for each rib. Next rib will be in the light shade, then reverse the shades and continue, so that the last rib in the square will be in the darkest shade. Make 9 squares for 1 panel.

Make a button in center of each square. Take the darkest shade of the four-fold Germantown. Wind the yarn 24 times over your finger. Break off the yarn and fasten the end in the hank. Pull through center of square, fasten on wrong side and cut even on right side.

Join the squares in black.

Place both pieces together with the right sides out. Start in the corner in the middle stitch of each piece and make the single crochet, taking up in double stitch on both edges. Work a little tight.

Make 5 shaded panels.

Use the dark brown of the four-fold Germantown and No. 4 hook for the plain panel. This panel is worked in the Old Afghan stitch. Make a chain of 40 stitches.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain, put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop (of those picked up) at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up the loops in front from the loops on preceding row.

Repeat 2nd row for the length of 2½ yards. Finish off last row with 1 row in the slip stitch (see 1st stitches), taking up in the loops. Make 4 panels.

97Embroider Fleurs-de-lis in cross stitch on the plain panel, using the 2 light shades of the four-fold Germantown. Make 1 Fleur-de-lis opposite each square of the shaded panel.

Join the panels in black, the same way as the squares, having the dark plain panel toward you and skip about every 4th stitch (row) on the edge of the plain panel.

Border: Use black yarn and make 1 row in the single crochet all around the Afghan on wrong side. On the ends of the plain panels skip every 3rd stitch, taking over 1 row.

2nd row: Take the next darkest shade and work on right side of Afghan. Make 1 chain and a single crochet in every other stitch on 1st row, taking up in double stitches.

3rd row: Use the darkest shade and * make a single crochet in a space on preceding row; then make a chain of 3 stitches and 4 double crochet in same space. Repeat from * in every 3rd space on the row.

Last row in a medium shade: Make a chain of 2 stitches and a single crochet in every double crochet on preceding row.

The New Slumber Robe — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

98
Size 2½×2 yards

For details see Popcorn Stitch page 30 and Rib Stitch page 17

SUNLIGHT eight-fold Germantown
4 shades green:
11 skeins light shade
46 skeins next shade
14 skeins next shade darker
20 skeins darkest shade
2 shades dark blue:
11 skeins lighter shade
7 skeins darker shade
20 skeins brown
6 skeins black
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 5
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 6
Illustration — The New Slumber Robe — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This Slumber Robe is made up of panels, worked in various shades of different colors. Five panels are green and blue, shaded, and 4 panels are medium green, with the pattern in brown. A scallop finishes off the edge. Use No. 6 hook for the green and blue panel. This panel is worked lengthwise. Start with the lightest shade in green and make a chain 2½ yards in length.

1st row: Make 1 single crochet in 2nd stitch from hook. * Take up 1 loop in next stitch on the chain and from this loop make a chain of 3 stitches; put yarn over hook and pull through both loops on needle, make 1 single crochet in next stitch on the chain and repeat from * to end of row.

This row is the center row of panel.

2nd row: Start with 2 single crochet on this row (that will alternate the knots) and work same as on 1st row, taking up in the double stitch.

Make 2 rows in the lightest shade, 2 rows in the next shade, 2 rows in the 3rd shade and 2 rows in the darkest shade.

Next row: Make 1 knot in the darkest green and knot in the lightest blue, changing the yarn when pulling through in the single crochet.

Make 1 row in the lightest blue and 1 row in the darkest blue.

This will finish one side of the panel. Now start in center with the lightest shade and make 1 row, taking up on the other side of the chain. Reverse the shades.

Make 5 panels.

For the panel with pattern use No. 5 hook. This panel is worked cross wise in the single crochet, with the next lightest shade in green and the brown. Start with the green and make a chain of 27 stitches.

1st row: Make 9 single crochet; take up the loop for the 10th stitch and pull through with the brown; then take up the loop for the next stitch and pull through with the green. This makes 1 brown stitch. Now make 2 single crochet work in the brown yarn, take up the loop for the 3rd stitch and pull through with the brown. This makes 3 green stitches. Repeat, making 3 brown and 9 green single crochet (26). This will finish 1st row; make 1 chain, turn.

Take up in the back of the stitches, work the yarn in as you go along and change the colors according to the following pattern:

(Green is abbreviated, gr., and brown, br.)

1st row: (already made).

1st row: 10 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 9 gr.

2nd row: 8 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 10 gr.

3rd row: 6 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 7 gr.

4th row: 6 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 4 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

5th row: 6 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 5 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

6th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 6 br. 6 gr.

7th row: 6 gr. 6 br. 2 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

8th row: 6 gr. 5 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

999th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 4 br. 6 gr.

10th row: 6 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 4 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

11th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 5 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

12th row: 6 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

13th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 10 gr.

14th row: 10 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

15th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 3 br. 1 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 1 br. 7 gr.

16th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 5 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

17th row: 6 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 4 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

18th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 7 gr.

19th row: 8 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

20th row: 6 gr. 2 br. 2 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 9 gr.

21st row: 6 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 5 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

22nd row: 6 gr. 2 br. 4 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

23rd row: 6 gr. 2 br. 4 gr. 3 br. 3 gr. 2 br. 6 gr.

24th row: 6 gr. 1 br. 3 gr. 3 br. 5 gr. 1 br. 7 gr.

This is the pattern; next row the same as 1st row.

Repeat until you have the length of 2½ yards.

Make 4 panels.

Either side of this panel can be used for right side.

Join the panels in black on right side; place both panels together having the panel with the pattern toward you. Make 1 row in the single crochet, taking up the stitches on and between the ribs on the green edge and through double stitch on the blue edge.

Border: 1st row in black; fasten the yarn ends on the green and blue panels. Make 1 row all around in the single crochet, taking up in the double stitch (work a little tight). Make 3 stitches for every 2 rows on the ends of the green and blue panels (32 stitches across).

2nd row in the brown: Make a loop on the hook; * put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop on 1st row (always taking up in double stitch), take up another loop in the next stitch, put yarn over hook, pull through all on needle and make 1 chain. Repeat from * taking up in every stitch on the sides of afghan and skipping 1 stitch between every other cluster on ends of afghan.

3rd row in the next lightest shade of green: Make a shell of 6 double crochet in every 4th space on preceding row and a single crochet in space between the shells.

Last row in the darkest shade of green: Make a chain of 2 stitches and a single crochet in every stitch on the shell, taking up in the double stitch.

Child’s Lily Cap — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

100
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown 3 skeins white
KLOSTERSILK Art 806, Perle No. 5, 1 skein white
KLOSTERSILK Art 806, Perle No. 5, 1 skein yellow
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
1 fine Steel Crochet Hook
⅙ yard White China Silk
Illustration — Child’s Lily Cap — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This little cap is crocheted with white yarn and trimmed with lilies which are crocheted in the mercerized cotton—No. 5 Klostersilk Perle.

Begin in center of crown. Wind the yarn loosely around the hook 3 times, then make 9 single crochet in this little ring (work tight).

2nd row: Start with 2 single crochet in 1st stitch on preceding row (always taking up in double stitch) and repeat in every stitch to end of row.

3rd row: Make 2 single crochet in every 2nd stitch on preceding row.

4th row: Make 2 single crochet in every 3rd stitch on preceding row.

5th row: Plain (without increasing).

Make 2 single crochet in every 4th stitch on preceding row 3 times around the circle (3 rows).

Make 2 rows plain.

Make 2 single crochet in every 6th stitch on preceding row 2 times around the circle (2 rows).

Make 2 single crochet in every 9th stitch on preceding row once around the circle (1 row).

Make 3 rows plain.

Make 2 single crochet in every 4th stitch on preceding row once around the circle (1 row).

Repeat with the single crochet without increasing until you have 37 rows from center of crown.

Increase 1 row. Make 2 single crochet in every 7th stitch on preceding row.

Make 12 rows plain.

Finish off edge with 1 row in the slip stitch. Make the row on wrong side of work and take up in double stitch.

The Lily: Use Klostersilk and the steel hook. Make a loop on the hook, having the end of the thread ½ yard long. Make 1 chain, then 12 single crochet over the end of the thread, turn.

2nd row: Leave the thread; make 1 single crochet in 2nd stitch on preceding row, taking up in back of the stitches, make another single crochet in next stitch, then make 6 double crochet, 1 in each stitch and 3 single crochet, turn.

3rd row: Same as 2nd row, making the last stitch close to the end of the thread, turn.

4th row: Take the end of the thread along and work over it, start as before and make 12 single crochet.

Make 1 chain and continue with the single crochet over the end of the thread for the next leaf. Make 5 leaves for the lily. Last row of each leaf is on right side.

Join 1st leaf and make center of flower: Make 2 single crochet at the base of each leaf (10 in circle). Next row: Make 2 single crochet in every 3rd stitch on preceding row, taking up on top of the stitches and having the center of flower toward you. Make 2 rows around and break off the thread. Make a chain of 8 stitches with double thread, in yellow. Put both ends of chain together, forming a loop, draw up the 101loop through center of flower as high as last row and fasten underneath.

Make 9 lilies.

The Stem for the flowers: Use the white cotton and make a chain of 2 stitches. 1st row: Make 5 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain. Start next row with 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on preceding row. Repeat the single crochet, 1 in each stitch, work around, taking up on top of the stitches and having the right side of work inside the cord.

Make the cord or stem 25 inches long.

Put 2 or 3 lilies together, making 3 or 4 clusters on the stem. Sew the flowers to the stem, put the trimming around cap and fasten.

Turnover edge of cap.

Line inside of cap with China silk and put elastic in if needed.

This size is for a child 3 to 4 years. For a larger size increase another row outside the last increasing row in the crown. For a smaller size leave out the last increasing row in the crown.

Child’s Skirt — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

102
For detail see Single Crochet, page 10

Size 6 to 8 years

SUNLIGHT German Knitting Yarn X, 1½ skeins
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style No. 2
Illustration — Child’s Skirt — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This little skirt is made in the single crochet. The ruffle at the bottom holds it firm and makes a pretty finish.

Begin at bottom of skirt and make a chain of 1¾ yards.

Work 14 single crochet, 1 in each stitch on the chain; then make 3 single crochet in 15th stitch on the chain. That increases 2 stitches. This will make 1 scallop; repeat same until you have 13 scallops for width of skirt.

End 1st row with the 3 single crochet in 1 stitch, then join by making 1 single crochet on 1st single crochet on 1st row, taking up in the back of the stitches; work 5 more single crochet.

Make 1 single crochet in 7th, 8th and 9th single crochet on row below. (Take up 1 loop for each single crochet and pull through those 3 loops as 1.) That will decrease 2 stitches, then make 6 single crochet, 1 in each stitch on row below. Make 3 single crochet in next stitch, the middle one of the 3 single crochet made in 1 stitch on 1st row, and that will increase 2 stitches.

Now work 6 single crochet and decrease 2, then 6 single crochet and increase 2 and repeat same for every row until you have 25 rows, then narrow a little toward the waist.

Next row: No increasing, follow the pattern and decrease only, then you get 1 stitch less on each side of scallop.

Work 5 rows same as before.

Make 1 row without increasing, then 4 rows same as before. Work 1 row without increasing and 4 rows again, then 1 row without increasing and 2 rows. Make last row in double crochet for the band.

Crochet ruffle at bottom of skirt.

Work 1 row in the double crochet with 1 chain between each double crochet, taking up in every stitch on row below, with exception of making 2 double crochet at the point of the scallops and skipping 1 stitch between the scallops.

Next row: Make a shell of 6 double crochet between 2 double crochet on row below. Repeat same to end of row, always leaving 2 double crochet on row below between each shell.

Finish off ruffle with a picot edge: * Make 1 single crochet on the shell; then make a chain of 3 stitches and 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on the chain. Repeat from * making 4 picots for each shell.

Make a vest of sateen, 13 inches in length from shoulder and 25 inches in width when buttoned and sew skirt on same.

If different size is wanted make more or less scallops for width and more or less rows before narrowing.

Little Betty Sweater Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

103
With belted back and crocheted buttons

Size 2

For detail see Little Betty Stitch, page 22

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—10 skeins
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
1 pair Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 6, Style 2
1 spool Twisted Crocheted Silk
6 button-molds, 1¼ inches, 4 button-molds, ¾ inch
Illustration — Little Betty Sweater Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Start at bottom of back. Cast on needle 75 stitches. Knit plain forward and back 15 rows for border. Start the design on right side of garment.

1st row: * Knit 2, purl 3 and repeat from * to end of row (the row will end with 3 purled).

2nd row: * Knit 3, purl 2 and repeat from *. On right side 1st and 2nd rows are the same.

3rd row: * Purl 3, knit 2 and repeat from *.

4th row: * Purl 2, knit 3 and repeat from *.

On right side, every 5th stitch on every row is always purled. These 4 rows form your design. Continue pattern.

Decrease 1 stitch on each side every 10th row, 8 times; then you have 20 designs to armhole. Bind off 7 stitches on each side for armhole and make 8 more designs. Now divide the stitches on your needle in three parts. 12 stitches on each side are for the shoulders. Work 1 design on each of them and bind off; bind off the stitches for the neck.

For right side front cast on needle 66 stitches. Knit plain 15 rows for border. On next row, right side of garment, knit plain 8 stitches. These stitches are for the border and to be knit plain on every row. Then start your design with * purl 3, knit 2 and repeat from *.

Work 2 designs and bind off 3 stitches on the side. (Here you start sewing the back and front together and let the back lap over those 3 stitches.) Decrease on side same as on side of back, having 21 designs to armhole. When you have 6 designs from border make an opening for pocket. Work 17 stitches from border, put the next 17 stitches on extra needle and bind off. Replace them with 17 new stitches and work to end of row. Continue pattern until you have 21 designs. Bind off for armhole on wrong side of front piece, first 8 stitches, next turn 6 stitches; repeat knitting until you have 27½ designs from border.

On right side of garment bind off 14 stitches for neck. Next turn 6 stitches, then bind off 3 stitches and 3 turns more. Bind off for shoulder.

Make left front to correspond.

104CUFFS: Cast on steel needle 34 stitches. Knit plain forward and back for 28 rows.

Next row you start sleeve: Knit plain, use bone needles and increase 1 every third stitch.

2nd row, right side of sleeve, start your design and increase 1 stitch on each side every 9th row 7 times.

Make 18 designs for length of sleeve to armhole. Bind off 2 stitches at the start of every row until you have 10 stitches left, then bind off the rest.

COLLAR: Cast on steel needle 8 stitches.

1st row: * Knit 1, purl 1 and repeat from *.

2nd row: * Knit 1 on top of purled stitch and purl 1 on top of knitted stitch and repeat from *. Add 7 stitches on 2nd row, turn and repeat same pattern.

At end of 4th row add 7 more stitches, in all 22 on needle. Knit the length of 11 inches and finish off end same as on start. Sew collar on, 12 stitches from front edge.

Crocheted Belt: Length 9½ inches. Make 10 rows in the single crochet, take up double stitch and finish off the belt all around with a row of single crochet in twisted silk. Put belt on back 4 inches below armhole and sew it on with 4 buttons.

Cover for Pocket: Pick up above the opening 21 stitches, repeat design in center and work narrow border around it. Make a pocket of satin and sew it on on wrong side. Sew up and finish your garment all around with a row of single crochet in twisted silk. On right side front make another row with 3 loops (chain of 8 stitches) for the buttons. Also on collar work 2 rows, the 1st row with yarn. Put hook and eye on collar.

Crocheted Buttons: Make a round piece, 2 inches in diameter, with single crochet in twisted silk. Start with 6 stitches in one chain.

Next row: Take up in double stitch and increase 1 in every other stitch.

3rd row: Same as 2nd.

4th row: Increase 1 in every 3rd stitch and the next rows in every 4th stitch. Now cover the button mold, having the wrong side out.

Using these instructions for size 1—

For back: Cast on 70 stitches. 17 designs to armhole, 25 designs to neck.

For front: Cast on 58 stitches. 17 designs to armhole, 24 designs to neck.

21 designs to top of sleeve.

15 designs to armhole.

53 stitches for width of sleeve.

Length of collar, 11¼ inches.

Length of belt 8¼ inches

Pocket 5 designs from border.

Child’s Knitted Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

105
With Round Collar
Size 6 to 8 years

For details see First Stitches, pages 12–16

SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted, 3 skeins white
SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown, 2 skeins pink
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 3
5 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 10
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7
3 Pearl Buttons, 1 inch
Illustration — Child’s Knitted Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This jacket is knitted in a pretty stitch with white yarn. The collar and the cuffs are made in pink.

Begin at bottom of right side front and cast on 78 stitches. Knit plain forward and back. 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit 7 ribs for border.

Start the design: 1st row (on right side): Knit plain to within 18 stitches, turn.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch, * knit plain 7 stitches, purl 3 stitches and repeat from *; at end of row knit plain 9 stitches, turn.

3rd row: Slip 1st stitch, knit 6 (these 7 stitches on front edge are for border and should always be knitted plain on both sides), purl 2, * knit 3, purl 7 and repeat from * to within 8 stitches, knitting last stitch, turn.

4th row: Same as 2nd row.

5th row: Knit plain to end of row.

6th row: Slip 1st stitch, * purl 3, knit 7 and repeat from *.

7th row: Slip 1st stitch, knit 6, * purl 7, knit 3 and repeat from * to end of row, purling last stitch.

8th row: Same as 6th row.

These 8 rows make 1 design.

9th row: Plain, same as 1st row of the design.

The shortening of the first 4 rows of the design will make the garment even at bottom.

Start decreasing in the side of front part: Decrease 1 stitch every 5th row, 21 times.

Make 1 design to armhole. Length, 14½ designs in front. Bind off 10 stitches for armhole (47 stitches across). Make 4 designs to neck. Bind off 12 stitches at neck; then bind off at neck 4 stitches each time for the next 5 turnings. Make 2 rows and bind off the remaining 15 stitches for shoulder.

Make the other front part to correspond.

Back: Cast on 89 stitches. Make 7 ribs for border. Shorten the length in each side of back same as on front part.

1st row: Knit plain to within 15 stitches, turn.

2nd row: Slip 1st stitch, * knit 7, purl 3 and repeat from * to within 15 stitches, purling last stitch, turn.

3rd row: Slip 1st stitch, * purl 7, knit 3 and repeat from * to within 10 stitches, ending with purl 3, turn.

4th row: Slip 1st stitch, knit 2, * purl 3, knit 7 and repeat from * to within 10 stitches, ending with knit 3, turn.

5th row: Knit plain to end of row, turn.

6th row: Slip 1st stitch, * knit 7, purl 3 and repeat from * to end of row, purling last stitch, turn.

7th row: Slip 1st stitch, * purl 7, knit 3 and repeat from *, ending row with knit 1, turn.

8th row: Same as 6th row.

9th row: Plain, same as 1st row of the design.

106Start decreasing on back: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of back every 7th row, 15 times.

Repeat the designs for the length of 14½ designs from center of back to armhole.

Bind off 6 stitches on each side of back for armhole (47 stitches across). Make 4 designs to shoulder. Bind off on shoulder 5 stitches each time for the next 3 turnings (same on other shoulder). Bind off the remaining 17 stitches for neck.

Sleeve: Start on the cuff and cast on with steel needles 40 stitches. Knit plain forward and back. Make 18 ribs for cuff. Change to bone needles and start the design:

1st row (on right side): Knit plain and increase 3 stitches on the row (43).

Start next row with slip 1st stitch, knit 4; then purl 3, knit 7 and repeat the design as before.

Make 2½ designs.

Start increasing on sleeve: Increase 1 stitch on each side of sleeve every 4th row, 14 times.

Make 1 design (10 designs from cuff and 71 stitches across).

Bind off 6 stitches on each side of sleeve, then bind off 2 stitches at start of every row, 10 times on each side of sleeve. Bind off the remaining 19 stitches.

Collar. Cast on with steel needles 218 stitches, dividing the number of stitches on 3 or 4 needles. Knit plain forward and back. Make 4 ribs.

Start decreasing on next row: Knit 14 stitches, * decrease 1 stitch, knit 10 stitches and repeat from * to end of row (17 decreased).

Repeat this decreasing of 17 stitches every 10th row (5th rib) 6 more times (start with 1 stitch less before decreasing at every row you decrease). Make 2 ribs. Next row: Knit 8 stitches, decrease 1 stitch and repeat this to end of row. Make 1 rib and bind off the remaining 90 stitches.

Sew garment together. Put seam of sleeve to front part, 1 inch from seam in the side. Hold the sleeve a little full around shoulder seam. Turn up cuff. Sew collar on, leaving 11 stitches from front edge on each side. Finish off front edges with 1 row in the single crochet, making 1 stitch for each rib.

Buttonhole 3 loops for the buttons on edge of right side front. Make 1st loop 2½ inches from neck, then put the other loops 4½ inches apart.

Sew buttons on about 4½ inches from edge, having small buttons on wrong side. Put hook and eye on at neck where ends of collar meet and fasten the corner of front part at neck with snaps.

Child’s Alliance Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

107
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT Alliance Knitting Yarn, 1 skein
3 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Child’s Alliance Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 40 stitches. Work forward and back. Knit 2 and purl 2 for the length of 3½ inches. Knit plain 4 rows (2 ribs).

Start increasing for thumb: Knit 19 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 19.

To increase: Put the same stitch that you knitted last stitch from on left hand needle and knit a stitch from the back. Repeat increasing of 2 stitches every rib, 6 times more, always having the 2 additional stitches between the 2 increasing places. Knit 1 rib.

Take the 16 stitches for thumb on separate needle and knit 7 ribs, then decrease every other stitch until finished.

To decrease: Knit 2 stitches together as 1. Sew thumb together.

Now continue knitting with the 38 stitches and make 14 ribs. Decrease 2 stitches on each side of mitten. Knit 1 rib.

Repeat decreasing of 4 stitches for every row until finished. Sew mitten together.

Child’s Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

108
For detail see knitting plain, page 12
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—2 skeins
3 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 15
Illustration — Child’s Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on needle 47 stitches.

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Slip 1, knit 1, then slip 1st stitch over knitted one (that decreases 1 stitch); knit 3, * yarn over needle knit 1, yarn over needle knit 3, knit 3 stitches together as 1 stitch, knit 3 and repeat from * to end of row.

3rd row: Purl the stitches and purl yarn over needle as 1 stitch. Repeat the 2 last rows until you are 1½ inches from the points. Knit plain back and forth 6 rows or 3 ribs.

7th row: * Knit 1 stitch, knit the 2 next stitches together as 1, put yarn over needle and repeat from *.

Next row: Knit yarn over needle as 1 stitch. These 2 rows make the holes for the cord. Knit plain 7 ribs. On next row decrease 11 stitches: Knit every 4th and 5th stitch together—then you have 36 stitches on needle. Knit 2 and purl 2 for 12 rows.

Next row increase 6 stitches, 1 in every 6th stitch. Knit 4 ribs, then start increasing for thumb.

1st row: Knit 20 stitches, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1, knit 20 stitches. Repeat 1st row every 4th row, 7 times more, always having 20 stitches on each side of increasing.

Now you have 18 stitches for thumb; put them on separate needle and knit 12 ribs.

Decrease every other stitch on 1st row, then decrease every stitch until there are 6 left. Draw the stitches together and fasten.

Sew thumb together, leaving 1 rib at base. Pick up 4 stitches at base of thumb, and add them to the other 40 stitches, then knit 22 ribs.

Next row: Decrease 1 stitch on each end of needle and 2 stitches in the middle. Repeat this decreasing 2 times more on every 4th row; then on every other row, until there are 12 stitches left.

Bind off closely and sew together. Also sew both sides together.

Make a chain with the yarn double 16 inches long. Pull it through the holes above border and tie.

Put a small tassel on each end of cord.

Tassel: Wind the yarn over 2 fingers 5 times; tie a linen thread around hank in middle and fasten to end of cord. Pull the loops down and wind the yarn around a few times ¼ inch from cord. Cut even at bottom.

Child’s Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

109
For detail see Slipper Stitch, page 18
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
1 skein white
1 skein black
1 skein colored
1 steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
1 pair of Soles, No. 8
¾ yard Ribbon, 1 inch wide
½ yard Elastic
Illustration — Child’s Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for pink, white and black.)

These slippers are crocheted in pink. The Turnover is knitted in white, with little black dots and a white ribbon bow is tied at the instep.

Begin at the toe and make a chain of 12 stitches.

1st row: Make 5 single crochet, 1 in each stitch on the chain, then 3 single crochet in the next stitch. Make 5 single crochet, 1 chain and turn.

2nd row: Plain (or 1 single crochet in each stitch on 1st row), always taking up in the back of the stitches; make 1 chain, turn.

Two rows make 1 rib. Make 10 ribs, increasing 2 stitches in center of each rib, like 1st rib.

Work 15 stitches on one side, turn and repeat forward and back for the length of 19½ ribs. Break off the yarn, thread a needle and sew end to front part, taking up in the back of the stitches on both parts.

Turnover, in white: Cast on 12 stitches. Knit plain forward and back for the length of 7 inches. Bind off and crochet the slip stitch on side and other end of strip.

Make little cross stitches in black alternately on the Turnover.

Sew top on to sole. Make 1 row in the double crochet on top of slipper and run the elastic through same row.

Sew Turnover to top of row.

Tie a bow at the instep.

The SUNLIGHT Tam o’Shanter — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

110
For details see First Stitches, page 10
SUNLIGHT Golf Yarn, 1 skein
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 5
Illustration — The SUNLIGHT Tam o’Shanter — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This cap is crocheted with golf yarn in the single crochet and trimmed with cord and tassels.

Begin in center of crown and make a chain of 2 stitches.

1st row: Make 8 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain. Pull the yarn end tight and fasten.

2nd row: Work around, making 2 single crochet in every stitch on preceding row, always taking up in double stitch.

This row will start the 8 increasing points on top of crown.

To make the increase regular you must always increase in the last one of the 2 stitches at the increasing point.

3rd row: Make 1 single crochet in 1st stitch of the 1st increasing point on preceding row, then make 2 single crochet in last stitch of the 1st point. Repeat to end of row.

On this row you have 1 stitch between each increasing point. Fourth row, you will have 2 stitches between each increasing point; and so for every row there will be 1 more stitch added between the increasing points.

Repeat until you have 20 rows from start.

Make 8 rows plain, that is, make 1 single crochet in every stitch on preceding row.

Start 8 decreasing points on next row. Make 19 single crochet, skip next stitch (the 20th) and repeat to end of row, making the decreases above the increases.

Decrease in same order as you increased, for 12 more rows.

BAND: Repeat the single crochet, making 6 rows around.

7th row: * Make 5 single crochet, then make a double crochet (loose), taking up through double stitch in 5th row below, skip 1 stitch on preceding row and repeat from * to end of row.

Make 1 row in the slip stitch and that will finish the band.

CORD: Cut 6 threads of the yarn, each 2½ yards in length. Put them together and twist them same way as the yarn is twisted. Stretch a little, double the string and twist the opposite way.

TASSEL: Cut a piece of cardboard 5 inches long and wind the yarn around 18 times. Thread a needle with the yarn. Use yarn double. Put needle through finished end of cord and through yarn between yarn and cardboard. Tie hank and cord together, take out the cardboard, hide the knot in the yarn and make it smooth. Wind around a few times with yarn ½ inch below cord and fasten. Cut even at bottom.

Put cord through loops around band. Tie a couple of loops with the cord and fasten them to cap, making the tassel come a little below band. Finish off other end of cord with a tassel.

Button: Crochet a button and sew it on to center of crown. Make a chain of 2 stitches.

1st row: Make 6 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain (work tighter).

2nd row: Make 2 single crochet in every stitch on 1st row.

1113rd row: Make 2 single crochet in every other stitch.

4th row: Make 2 single crochet in every 3rd stitch on preceding row.

Make 5th row plain and skip every other stitch on 6th row.

Run a thread through edge, draw together a little, leaving a small opening in center.

Evening Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

112
Size 36
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
9 skeins white
4 skeins colored
Fairy Floss—8 skeins, white
1 pair Wooden Knitting Needles, No. 9
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
7¾ yards Ribbon, 1½ inches wide
Illustration — Evening Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

This jacket, knitted in two kinds of white floss, has a knitted pink lining, which shows through the outer fancy stitch and adds to the garment a richness that could not be effected any other way.

Work with the yarn double, 1 thread of white Shetland Floss and 1 thread of white Fairy Floss.

Start at bottom of back and cast on 56 stitches (must always be even numbers).

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Purl the stitches.

3rd row: Slip 1, knit 1, * knit 2 together and repeat from *. At end of row knit each one of the last 2 stitches separate.

4th row: Slip 1, knit 2, knit thread (knit with the right hand needle the thread in front between the 2 purled stitches on preceding row). * Knit 1, knit thread and repeat from *. At end of row knit thread, knit each one of the last 2 stitches separate. These 4 rows make 1 design.

5th row: Same as 1st row.

6th row: Same as 2nd row.

7th row: Slip 1, * knit 2 together and repeat from *. At end of row knit last stitch.

8th row: Slip 1, * knit 1, knit thread and repeat from *. At end of row knit thread, knit last stitch. Repeat these 8 rows for the work.

Be careful to start and end 3rd and 6th rows according to direction.

Knit 5 designs. Decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle (52 on needle). Knit 17 designs (22 from start). Add 56 stitches on each side of work for the sleeves. Make 3 designs. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 8th row, 3 times. Knit until you have 11 designs on the sleeves (158 stitches across).

Leave 68 stitches, for sleeve, on separate needle. Bind off 22 stitches for neck and continue knitting on the remaining 68 stitches for the other sleeve.

Make 3 designs for shoulder. Add 14 stitches in front. Make 2 designs. Increase 1 stitch at end of sleeve every 8th row, 3 times. At the same time increase 1 stitch in front every 4th row.

113Repeat knitting until you have 9 designs from neck.

Leave 40 stitches at end of sleeve on the needle and knit 1 design with the remaining stitches. Knit 1 row across, then bind off 56 stitches for the sleeve.

Repeat the increasing in front until you have 42 stitches on needle. Continue knitting until you have 15 designs from sleeve.

Increase 2 stitches in the side of front part. Knit 7 designs (22 from sleeve) and bind off. Make the other side of garment to correspond.

Lining: Use 1 thread of the pink floss and cast on 50 stitches. Knit plain forward and back. 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit loosely and make 10 ribs. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle. Knit until you have the length of back, about 37 ribs. Add 50 stitches on each side of work for the sleeves. Knit 5 ribs. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 5th rib 3 times. Make 18 ribs from start of sleeves. Leave 60 stitches for sleeve on separate needle.

Bind off 22 stitches for neck and continue knitting on the remaining 60 stitches for the other sleeve. Knit 5 ribs for shoulder. Add 14 stitches in front. Knit 2 ribs. Increase 1 stitch at end of sleeve every 5th rib, 3 times. At the same time increase 1 stitch in front, every 2nd rib. Repeat knitting until you have 16 ribs from neck. Bind off 50 stitches for sleeve. Repeat the increasing in front until you have 40 stitches on needle. Knit 27 ribs from sleeve, increase 1 stitch on the side, then knit 10 ribs and bind off. Make the other side to correspond.

Sew up the garment and also the lining. Place the lining in the jacket and put the edges together with 1 row in the single crochet.

Make border in white all around.

1st row: Use Shetland Floss (1 thread) and make a loop on the hook. Put yarn over hook twice, take up 1 loop on the edge, yarn over, pull through 2 loops; yarn over hook, take up another loop in 3rd stitch from preceding loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops at a time and make a chain of 2 stitches. Make a double crochet in the 2 loops in center of stitch.

Make the next cross in the next stitch and repeat all around. Make 21 crosses around neck.

2nd row: Make a single crochet in a cross, * make a chain of 3 stitches and 6 double crochet in same space; make 2 single crochet in the next cross, then 1 chain and 1 single crochet in 2nd cross and repeat from * all around.

3rd row: With the Fairy Floss: * Start with a single crochet in the chain at top of shell, make a chain of 2 stitches and 1 single crochet in every stitch on the shell and repeat from * to end of row.

Make border around sleeves, the same. Make another row of shells around neck.

1st row: Make a chain of 3 stitches and a slip stitch in every 3rd stitch of the row in the single crochet.

Pull ribbon through loosely around garment; tie a bow on the sleeve and draw ribbon through at neck to tie.

Fasten the ribbon in a few places.

Woman’s Nightingale — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

114
For detail see First Stitches, Crocheting, pages 10–11
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
10 skeins white
3 skeins colored
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
4 yards Ribbon, 1½ inches wide
Illustration — Woman’s Nightingale — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

This garment is crocheted in one piece. The sleeves are tied up from the sides and trimmed with ribbon, and ribbon is also pulled through around neck.

Begin at neck with white yarn and make a chain of 85 stitches.

1st row: Make 3 double crochet in 4th stitch from needle. Make another group of 3 double crochet in 3rd stitch on chain and repeat this until you have 6 groups of 3 double crochet. Now make 3 double crochet, 1 chain and 3 more double crochet all in 3rd stitch on chain. This will increase 1 group of 3 double crochet. Repeat with 6 groups as before, 1 double group, 6 groups, 1 double group and 6 more groups. End 1st row with 1 chain and 1 double crochet in same place as last group, turn.

2nd row: Make a chain of 3 stitches; make 1 group between the double crochet and 1st group on preceding row. Repeat making 1 group between each group on preceding row and always make 2 groups with 1 chain between in every double group (3 double groups on the row). End 2nd row with 1 group, 1 chain and 1 double crochet between last group and the chain of 3 stitches, turn.

Repeat 2nd row until you have 32 rows from start.

Border, 1st row in blue: Begin at neck and make a single crochet in 1st space on front side; make a chain of 3 stitches and 2 double crochet in same space, then make shells of 5 double crochet in every other space on edge along the front sides and at bottom of garment and make 1 single crochet in space between each shell. Make 9 double crochet in the corner shells. End 1st row with a half shell.

2nd row in white, on other side of work: Make shells of 5 double crochet in the single crochet on preceding row and make the single crochet between the shells in center of shell on preceding row.

Make a shell of 5 double crochet in center of large shell and put the single crochet in 3rd stitch on each side of large shell.

115Repeat this increasing in corners when needed.

Repeat the 2nd row, alternating the blue until you have 6 rows in border.

Make last row in blue with a picot in center of each shell.

Picot: Make 3 double crochet (half of the shell), then make a chain of 3 stitches, a single crochet in the 2 loops below the chain and then 3 more double crochet to complete the shell.

Work 1 row in the single crochet around neck, making 2 stitches in each space.

Make another row for beading: * Make 1 double crochet, a chain of 3 stitches, 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on the chain and repeat from *, taking up in every other stitch on preceding row.

Sleeves: Double the garment at 1st and 3rd widenings and tie together both sides 10 inches from increasings on 1st and 2nd row above border; use the yarn double to tie with. This will form the sleeve.

Pull ribbon through in a few places above border and tie a bow on sleeve.

Draw ribbon through beading around neck.

Crocheted Hug-Me-Tight — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

116

For details see First Stitches, page 10, and Old Afghan Stitch, page 27.

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
6 skeins white
2 skeins pink
1 skein darker pink and 1 skein soft shade of green for the cross stitch embroidery
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 5
4 button-molds, 1⅛ inches
Illustration — Crocheted Hug-Me-Tight — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This pretty garment is crocheted with white yarn in the single crochet. The pink and white border is finished off with a picot edge. A white crocheted band with cross stitch embroidery is worked across back and front parts below shoulders. Belt in back and crocheted buttons add another feature to it. This garment is to be worn double breasted, with the ends of the front parts buttoned to back.

Begin at bottom of back and make a chain of 51 stitches.

1st row: Make 1 single crochet in every stitch on the chain, then make 1 chain, turn.

Repeat the single crochet, taking up in double stitch on preceding row. Work forward and back until you have 55 rows or the length of 13 inches. Turn and start on next row the band for the embroidery.

Make the band in the Old Afghan Stitch.

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on preceding row, taking up as before in double stitch (51 loops on needle). * Put yarn over hook, pull through 1 loop and repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Same as 1st row with exception of taking up the loops through loops in front on preceding row.

Make 8 rows for the width of band.

Start with the single crochet and make 1 stitch in each loop on preceding row; make 1 chain, turn. Crochet 3 more rows. This will finish the length of back.

Next row: Make 16 single crochet for the shoulder, turn.

Make 5 rows.

Next row: Increase 1 stitch at neck and repeat this for the next three turnings.

Make the band for the cross stitch embroidery same as on back (pick up 20 loops for band).

Repeat the single crochet same as before, making 55 rows or the length of 13 inches.

Make other side of garment to correspond.

Border: Make border all around in the single crochet. Work on right side of garment. Start with pink yarn and make 1 single crochet for every row and 1 single crochet in every stitch at neck and bottom of garment. Increase 1 stitch in each corner. Make 4 rows in white and pink alternately and repeat the increasing of 1 stitch in every corner, each row. (Always take up in double stitch.) Finish off border with a picot edge: Use pink yarn and make 1 single crochet on preceding row. * Crochet a chain of 3 stitches and make a slip stitch, taking up in the 2 loops below chain, skip 1 stitch on preceding row, make 1 single crochet and repeat from * to end of row.

Belt: Start with a chain of 3 stitches. Make 2 single crochet on 1st row. Repeat the single crochet, increasing 1 stitch every turning until you have 11 stitches for width of belt. Make 36 rows or the length of 8½ inches. Decrease 1 stitch each turning until 2 stitches are left.

Button: Cover the mold with either pink yarn or cloth. Use pink yarn and make a 117chain of 2 stitches. 1st row: Make 6 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain. 2nd row: Make 2 single crochet in every stitch on 1st row. 3rd row: Make 2 single crochet in every other stitch on preceding row. Make next row plain. Run a thread through edge of circle, put mold in, draw together and fasten.

Place belt across back 2 inches above border, having the points come out to the picot edge. Fasten it to back and sew on 1 button at each point. Sew on the other buttons in center of border 3 inches above the points of belt.

Make a box pleat in back under belt to take in the fulness and fasten belt loosely in center.

Make 3 loops on each end of front parts: Crochet a chain for each loop and place one loop in center and the others in the corners. Make all the loops on wrong side and in center of border.

Embroider in cross stitch little pink flowers and green leaves on the bands.

Knitted Hug-Me-Tight — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

118
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
2 skeins one color
5 skeins different color
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 6
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 4
2 Button-molds, 1 inch
Illustration — Knitted Hug-Me-Tight — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

This dainty garment is knitted in the plain stitch with pink yarn. The white border and the white belt in the back have a pink edge and are also knitted. The belt is fastened to the back with crocheted buttons. This garment can be worn as a jacket merely by buttoning it different ways or with end crossed on breast as hug-me-tight.

Start at bottom of back, use pink yarn and cast on 50 stitches.

Knit plain forward and back. Two rows make 1 rib. Knit 63 ribs for length of back. Knit 17 stitches on next row and turn (leaving the remaining 33 stitches on a spare needle). Repeat making 63 ribs for shoulder and length of front part and bind off.

Bind off at neck 16 stitches and make the other side to correspond.

Border: Use white yarn, begin in 12th rib from bottom of back and pick up (on right side of work) 1 stitch for each rib along the side of knitted piece to end of front part. Take up 3 stitches in corner and then 1 stitch in each chain at bottom of front part, turn. Keep all the stitches on 1 needle. Knit as before and make 5 ribs, increase 2 stitches in the corner for each rib. Make 1 rib in pink (1st row will be on right side) and bind off.

Knit border on other side of vest to correspond.

Pick up the stitches same as before around neck and along the front edges, starting in last rib of the white at bottom of front. Make border same as before, knit the pink edge around the corner and connect it to the edge at bottom.

Belt: Cast on 4 stitches (knit just a little tight) and increase 1 stitch on each side until you have 10 stitches. Make about 47 ribs. Length of belt must be 1 inch shorter than width of back at bottom. Make pink edge as before all around belt.

Draw together end of border in back and sew the point of belt to this place with a crocheted button.

Button: Cover the mold with either pink yarn or cloth. Use pink yarn and make a chain of 2 stitches. Make 6 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain. Work around, making 2 single crochet in each stitch on 1st row, then 2 single crochet in every other stitch on the next row. Make 1 row plain. Run a thread through edge of circle, put mold in, draw together and fasten.

Crochet 1 loop in each corner of front parts on the wrong side and fasten them in the white near the pink edge. Button the sides to the back. Run a string across back under the belt and fasten belt loosely to back in middle.

Crocheted Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

119
For details see First Stitches, pages 10–11
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
6 skeins light shade of brown
2 skeins darker shade of brown
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 5
1½ yards brown Ribbon, 1 inch wide
Illustration — Crocheted Jacket — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This jacket is crocheted in a pretty stitch and trimmed with ribbon around neck.

Begin at bottom of back, take the light shade of brown and make a chain of 96 stitches (rather tight).

1st row: Make 1 single crochet on the chain. When taking up the loop for the single crochet make it a little longer than usual and repeat this through the work.

Make 1 chain rather tight (this one chain must always be made tight), skip 1 stitch on the chain and make another single crochet, then repeat, making 1 chain and 1 single crochet in every other stitch on the chain. Make 48 single crochet on 1st row, at end of row make 1 chain, turn.

2nd row: Make 1 single crochet in 1st space, that is, below top and through 1st loop of the single crochet on preceding row.

* Make 1 chain, then make 1 single crochet, taking up below top and through 1st loop of the next single crochet on preceding row and repeat from *, ending row with 1 chain, turn. Repeat 2nd row for the work.

Make 21 rows.

Increase 1 stitch on each side of back every other row, 5 times.

To increase: Make 1 chain and 1 single crochet twice in same place.

Add 22 stitches (chain of 44) on each side of back for the sleeves.

Next row: Make 24 single crochet, increase 1 stitch and repeat this in every 9th stitch (single crochet) 6 more times, then finish the row same as at start.

Make 3 rows.

Next row: Make 25 single crochet, increase 1 stitch and make this increase to correspond on other end of row.

Repeat this increase of 2 stitches on every 5th row, 3 more times (20 rows from start of sleeve).

Decrease 3 stitches on next row: 1 stitch in center of back and 1 stitch on each side, 10 stitches from center.

To decrease: Skip 1 chain and 1 single crochet.

Make 1 row.

Decrease 4 stitches next row at center of back, having 5 stitches between each decrease (110 stitches across).

Take 44 stitches (single crochet) for each sleeve; that will leave 22 stitches for neck.

Make 3 rows for shoulder.

Increase at neck, 1 stitch every other row, 7 times.

Make 7 rows.

Leave 22 stitches for the sleeve (29 stitches across), and make 30 rows for the length of front part.

120Make other front part to correspond.

Sew garment together.

Make 1 row in the same stitch and same shade around neck, along front edges, at bottom of jacket and also around the sleeves. Omit the one chain between the single crochet at neck in back of garment.

Make 1 row (light shade) around neck, starting at last increase on front edge: Make 1 treble crochet loose and 1 chain tight, taking up in every stitch (single crochet) on preceding row. This row is for the ribbon.

Make border in the darker shade of brown: Make 5 rows in the same stitch all around garment, increasing 1 stitch every row in each corner. Increase 3 stitches on each side below neck at the last increase on front edge. Make 5 rows around sleeves.

Finish off all the edges with 1 row in the lighter shade.

Pull the ribbon through at neck, having 2 treble crochet over and 1 under.

Abdominal Band — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

121
For detail see First Stitches Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—4 skeins
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Abdominal Band — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 240 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2 and repeat forward and back for the length of 2 inches.

Knit plain for 5 inches, then same as at bottom, knit 2 and purl 2 for 2 inches.

Bind off and sew together.

Woman’s Corset Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

122
Size 36
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn—5 skeins
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
1½ yards Ribbon, 1 inch wide
2½ yards Ribbon, ½ inch wide
1 dozen small Pearl Buttons
Illustration — Woman’s Corset Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This corset cover is knitted lengthwise in the plain stitch and trimmed with ribbon.

Begin on the right sleeve and cast on 70 stitches. Knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 1¼ inches. Knit plain 2 rows (2 rows make 1 rib). Increase 1 stitch at each end of needle every rib, 10 times. Add 6 stitches at each end of needle every rib, 7 times (174 stitches in all). Increase 1 stitch at bottom of front every 5th rib, 4 times. Decrease 1 stitch at bottom of back every 10th rib, 2 times. Make 20 ribs to neck. Leave 76 stitches for front on separate needle. Bind off 28 stitches for neck. Repeat knitting on the remaining 75 stitches for back. Knit 38 ribs in back, then leave the stitches on separate needle and break off the yarn at neck.

Continue with the 76 stitches in front starting at neck. Knit to within 6 stitches, turn.

Next row: Slip 1st stitch and finish the row.

Repeat this turning, leaving 5 stitches each time for the next 3 turnings; then leave 4 stitches for each turning, 4 times. Work 4 rows across the piece. Now start at neck and knit 39 stitches, turn.

Repeat the turnings, knitting 4 stitches more for each turning, 4 times. Knit 5 stitches more for each turning, 3 times, then knit the remaining 6 stitches. Work 7 ribs across (25 ribs at neck).

Leave 4 stitches at neck for every turning, 7 times. Knit 1 row across and bind off. Cast on 48 stitches for the other front. Add 4 stitches for every rib, 7 times (76). Knit 7 ribs and repeat, making the other half of garment to correspond.

Sew the sides together and pick up all the stitches at bottom of garment (1 stitch for each rib). Knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 1¼ inches. Bind off.

Beading: Start row with a treble crochet (see First Stitches) and * make a chain of 3 stitches. Make 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on the chain, 1 treble crochet in the 3rd stitch on edge and repeat from * to end of row.

123Button holes: Start at bottom of right side front and make 3 single crochet. * Make a chain of 2 stitches (a little tight), skip 2 stitches on the edge, make 6 single crochet and repeat from *.

Make the single crochet around neck (1 stitch for each rib) and along the other front side.

Make another row on the right side front: Start with 3 single crochet, taking up in the double stitch. * Make 2 single crochet over the chain of 2 stitches, then make 3 single crochet, a picot and 3 more single crochet and repeat from *.

Picot: A chain of 3 stitches, make 1 single crochet in the 2 loops below the chain.

Make beading around neck and sleeves same as before, with exception of making a double crochet instead of the treble.

Put facing inside on front edge and sew buttons on.

Pull ribbon through the beadings and tie a bow on each sleeve.

Woman’s Ermine Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

124
For detail see Lace Picot, page 51
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
1 skein white
2 skeins colored
1 skein black
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
1 pair of soles, No. 6
Illustration — Woman’s Ermine Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white, pink and black.)

These slippers are knitted in pink. The Turnover has the effect of ermine and a cord with little white pompons is pulled through around top and tied at the instep.

Cast on 22 stitches with pink yarn.

Knit plain forward and back for the length of 16 inches and bind off.

Turnover: Cast on 13 stitches with white yarn.

Knit plain 5 ribs (10 rows).

Start with the black yarn.

1st row: Knit 2 in white, 3 in black, 3 in white, 3 in black, and 2 in white.

2nd row: The same as 1st row.

3rd row: Knit 3 in white, 1 in black, 5 in white, 1 in black and 3 in white.

4th row: Same as 3rd row. Leave the black yarn on one side of work as you go along.

Knit 5 ribs, then make these little ermine spots alternately. Repeat for the length of 12 inches.

Make a picot edge around Turnover in white: Fasten the yarn and make a slip stitch on edge. * Make 1 chain a little tight, pull out the loop and withdraw the hook. Now put hook back into the slip stitch, yarn over and draw out a loop, make 1 slip stitch on the edge and repeat from *, making it full enough in the corners.

Join top of slipper by putting one end of the pink stripe to the side at the other end.

Sew top on to sole. Make a row of 1 chain and 1 double crochet around top of slipper for the cord. Sew Turnover to top of row.

Cord: Crochet a chain in white with the yarn double, 24 inches long. Pull through at top and put pompons on.

Pompons: Cut 2 round pieces of thin cardboard 1¼ inches in diameter and make ⅜-inch hole in center. Thread a needle and work with the yarn double over and over until the hole is filled up. Cut open between the cardboards. Take a linen thread and wind around tight between the cardboards, and tie.

Remove the cardboards and cut even.

Crocheted Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

125
SUNLIGHT Four-fold Germantown—4 skeins
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
¾ Yard Satin Ribbon, 1 inch wide
1 Pair of Soles, No. 5
Illustration — Crocheted Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Begin at the toe. Make a chain of 20 stitches.

1st row: Work 9 single crochet, 1 in each stitch on the chain; make 3 single crochet in 10th chain—that will increase 2 stitches, then 9 single crochet, make 1 chain and turn.

2nd row: Repeat with the single crochet, taking up in the back of the stitches on row below.

These two rows make 1 rib.

Work 14 more ribs and increase 2 stitches for each rib, same as on 1st rib. Now work 17 stitches on one side, turn and repeat same as before until you have 31 ribs.

Sew end to front part and sew 1st row together at toe.

Crochet trimming on top of slipper. Use yarn double and start in the back.

1st row: Make a loop on the hook, * put yarn over and take up 1 long loop on a rib on edge, yarn over and take up another long loop on next rib. Put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, make 1 chain and repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Make 1 single crochet between 2 heavy stitches on row below. * Make 1 chain tight and draw the loop long on the hook, then put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop, 1 inch long, in same place as the single crochet. Yarn over hook and repeat until 4 loops are taken up; yarn over and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain tight. Put 1 single crochet between the next two stitches on row below and repeat from *.

This row will finish the trimming. Tie a bow of the ribbon and put on at instep. Sew sole on to slipper.

For other sizes make more or less ribs.

Woman’s French Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

126
Size 5

For details, see Rib Stitch page 17, and Old Afghan Stitch, page 27

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
1 skein white
2 skeins colored
2 shades of pink BLYDA Rope Silk
2 shades of green BLYDA Rope Silk
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 6, Style 2
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
1 Pair of Soles, No. 5
1 yard Satin Ribbon, 1½ inches wide.
Illustration — Woman’s French Slippers — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and lavender.)

These slippers are crocheted in a medium shade of lavender. The toe and turnover are made in white with little rose buds embroidered in cross stitch, and a ribbon bow in lavender is tied at the instep.

Begin at the toe with the lavender yarn and make a chain of 32 stitches (use steel hook).

1st row: Make 15 single crochet (work tight), then make 3 single crochet in the 16th stitch on the chain. Make 15 more single crochet and 1 chain; turn.

2nd row: Make 16 single crochet, always taking up in the back of the stitches. Make 3 single crochet in the 17th stitch, then 16 more single crochet; make 1 chain; turn.

Two rows make 1 rib. Repeat with the increasing for every row until you have 9 ribs. Take 20 stitches for the side and repeat until you have 40 ribs around.

Join slipper: Place both edges together and make the slip stitch (see First Stitches), taking up in the back of the stitches on both edges.

Turnover: Use the white yarn and No. 4 hook and make a chain of 15 stitches (work tight).

1st row: Pick up 1 loop in each stitch on the chain (15 loops on needle), put yarn over hook and pull through 1 loop (of those picked up) at a time.

2nd row: Same as 1st row, taking up the loops in front from the loops on preceding row.

Repeat 2nd row. Make 54 rows.

Finish off the edge (3 sides) of the turnover with 1 row in the slip stitch.

Make a square, same width as the turnover, for the toe.

Embroider in cross stitch a vine of rose buds and leaves on the turnover and a rose bud on the toe.

Sew 2 sides of the square to slipper, having the corner in center of 1st row on slipper.

Sew the turnover to top of slipper.

Sew slipper on to sole.

Tie a bow at the instep for trimming.

Woman’s Crocheted Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

127
For detail see First Stitches—Crocheting, pages 10–11
SUNLIGHT Saxony—2 skeins
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
Illustration — Woman’s Crocheted Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain of 40 stitches.

Join and make 8 rows in the single crochet, taking up in the double stitch.

Start increasing for thumb.

1st row: Make 2 single crochet in 1 stitch on preceding row; that will increase 1 stitch. Make 1 single crochet and increase 1 more.

Repeat this increasing of 2 stitches every 2nd row, 10 times more, always having the 2 additional stitches between the 2 increasing places.

Take the 22 stitches increased, join and work the thumb.

Decrease 1 stitch in back of thumb every row, 4 times (18 around).

Make 9 rows, then decrease every 3rd stitch until finished.

Now continue with the 40 stitches for hand and make 22 rows from base of thumb.

Next row: Decrease 1 stitch on each side of hand. Make 1 row plain, then repeat decreasing 2 stitches for every row, 7 more times.

Crochet together the remaining stitches with the slip stitch: Put the hook through 1 stitch from each side of mitten, yarn over hook, pull through and repeat until finished.

Border: 1st row: Make the slip stitch on the chain.

2nd row: Make the double crochet, taking up in 1st row of the single crochet (over the row of the slip stitch and the chain), join.

3rd row: Make a chain of 3 stitches. Make 1 double crochet between 2nd and 3rd double crochet on preceding row. Work another double crochet across this one between 1st and 2nd double crochet.

Repeat the cross stitch over every 2nd double crochet on preceding row.

4th row: Same as 3rd row.

5th row: Make the double crochet, increasing 1 stitch in every 3rd cross.

Make 2 rows in the cross stitch same as before and finish off with a picot edge.

Picot: * Make a single crochet between 2 crosses; a chain of 3 stitches, 1 single crochet in 1st stitch on the chain and repeat from * to end of row.

Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

128
Size—To cover 3-quart bottle

For detail see Single Crochet, page 10

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—2 skeins
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
Illustration — Crocheted Hot Water Bottle Cover — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Make a chain of 58 stitches and join to a ring.

1st row: Make the single crochet.

2nd row: Join 1st row by making the next single crochet in 1st stitch on 1st row. Make 2 more single crochet in same stitch and that will increase 2 stitches on one side of cover. Repeat with the single crochet, taking up in back of the stitches on preceding row. Work 28 single crochet, then make 3 single crochet in the next stitch on the chain; that will increase 2 stitches on the other side of cover. Now make 28 single crochet and that will finish 2nd row.

Repeat, increasing 2 stitches on each side of cover for 4 more rows.

Now work around without increasing until the cover is 10½ inches long.

Make 1 row for the cord: Work the double crochet, taking up in the double stitch on preceding row.

Finish off top of cover with 1 row of scallops: Make 1 single crochet, a chain of 3 stitches and 4 double crochet all in 1 stitch on preceding row and repeat the same in every 4th stitch.

Use the yarn double and make a chain for the cord. Make 2 pieces, each one 24 inches in length.

Pull cord through at top, one piece around from one side and the other piece around from opposite side.

Put a tassel on each end of cord.

Tassel: Cut a piece of cardboard 6 inches wide; wind the yarn around 14 times. Take out the hank, place the end of cord in middle of hank and let the loops come around the cord. Take a linen thread and tie around hank and end of cord. Now pull the loops down and wind around with yarn a few times ½ inch from cord. Cut even at bottom.

Sew together at bottom, leaving an opening of 2 inches in center.

Tie the 2 ends of the cord together on each side.

Newport Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

129
For detail see Knitting Plain, page 12
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss—10 skeins
1 Pair Wooden Knitting Needles, No. 12
Illustration — Newport Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

For this shawl use the yarn double (2 balls).

Cast on needle 90 stitches. Knit plain forward and back for the length of 56 inches. Bind off.

Make fringe on both ends of shawl.

Start with * a single crochet, then make a chain of 15 stitches very loose and repeat from *.

Always leave 1 stitch between every single crochet.

Newport Shawl with Stripes — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

130
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
17 skeins white
6 skeins colored
1 pair Wooden Knitting Needles, No. 12
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 4
Illustration — Newport Shawl with Stripes — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

This shawl is knitted in the plain stitch and a heavy fringe is put on both ends.

Wind the white yarn into 2 balls and also the blue. Use the yarn double (2 balls).

Start with the white yarn and cast on 100 stitches. Knit plain, forward and back. 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit 12 ribs.

Begin with the blue yarn (use 2 balls) and knit 1 rib. Knit 1 rib in white and 1 rib in blue until you have 5 ribs in blue.

Make 3 ribs in white, 3 ribs in blue, 3 in white, 3 in blue and 3 ribs in white; repeat with 1 rib in blue and 1 rib in white until you have 5 ribs in blue (same as before).

Make 12 ribs in white and 3 ribs in blue. This last rib in blue will finish 1 design.

Start next design with the 12 ribs in white.

Make 4 designs, ending last design with the 12 ribs in white. Bind off.

Crochet 1 row all around shawl; use the white yarn (2 balls). Make 1 single crochet for each knitted stitch on the ends of shawl, taking up in the double stitch. Start on the side with 1 single crochet between each rib. Make 6 single crochet, then make a chain of 2 stitches. Put hook through the 2 loops below the chain, yarn over hook and pull through all on needle. Repeat with 6 single crochet and a picot along both sides of shawl.

Make the fringe in white: Cut a skein of the yarn twice, that will give you ends of right length for the fringe. Take 3 ends of the yarn together, double them and put the loops through a coarse needle (needle used for cord). Put the needle down through double stitch in 1st single crochet on one end. Remove the needle, pull the ends through the loops at once and tighten.

Repeat this in every single crochet on both ends of shawl.

To knot the fringe: Fasten one end of shawl on table and work from left to right. 131Take 1st bunch of yarn and put across the 2nd one, take 3rd bunch and put across 4th bunch and repeat. Now take 1st and 4th bunches together and make a knot about 1 inch from top.

To make a knot: Put the ends of the yarn across the yarn, that makes a loop, then pull the ends through the loop. Move the knot when loose with your needle and put it in place, then tighten.

Repeat this, taking next the 3rd and 6th bunch of yarn together, then 5th and 8th and so on. Tie a knot on 2nd bunch.

2nd row: Take 4 threads of the yarn and make a knot ¾ inch from 1st row of knots and repeat.

3rd row: Take 6 threads of the yarn and make a knot ¾ inch from 2nd row of knots. Now take 12 threads of the yarn together and make knots to correspond with the 1st row of knots.

Cut fringe even.

Size of shawl from these instructions is 26×72 inches without the fringe.

Three-Cornered Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

132
For detail, see Grandmother’s Stitch, page 17
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
8 skeins one color
2 skeins different color
1 10-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 5
Illustration — Three-Cornered Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for gray and purple.)

Start at the neck with a loose chain of 44 stitches.

1st row: Make a double crochet in the 5th stitch from your needle, then 1 chain and another double crochet in same stitch. * Make 1 chain, yarn over hook, take up 1 loop in same place as preceding stitch, yarn over and take up another loop in 2nd stitch on the chain. Now you have 5 loops on your needle. Put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. This is the stitch; repeat from *.

Work 9 stitches; then make 1 chain and 1 double crochet, 1 chain and another double crochet in same place as preceding stitch. Make 1 chain, then make the stitch, taking up 1st loop in very same place as before and the other loop in 2nd stitch on the chain. This stitch is the center stitch; then reverse the stitches, turn.

2nd row: A chain of 4 stitches; make 2 double crochet, with 1 chain between in the 1st space on 1st row. Make 1 chain and work 4 of the stitches, making 1 above each one on 1st row. Now make 1 chain, 1 double crochet, 1 chain and start next stitch in same place as preceding stitch, this makes the increasing of 1 stitch. Continue with 4 of the stitches and increase 1 stitch, make 5 stitches, increase 1 and work the center stitch over the center stitch below. Increase 1 stitch, make 5, increase 1 stitch, make 4, increase 1 stitch, make 4 more, then make 3 double crochet with 1 chain between in same or last space, turn.

3rd row: A chain of 4 stitches; make 1 double crochet, 1 chain and start your stitch in 1st space. This start is the same on both sides to the last row. Increase 2 stitches, 1 stitch for each time in the middle of each side. Make 2 double crochet with 1 chain between on each side of center stitch.

End 3rd row with 2 double crochet with 1 chain between, turn; repeat this for every row. Next row have 1 double crochet on each side of center stitch. Repeat these 2 last rows in center until you have 12 rows on shawl, then have 1 double crochet on each side of center stitch till last row.

1334th row: Increase 2 stitches on each side. No more increasing, work back and forth and follow the directions above for center and ends.

Work 20 rows in gray. Start border with 1 row in purple, then make 1 row in gray, 1 in purple, 4 in gray, 1 in purple, 1 in gray, 1 in purple, 2 in gray. Then 1 row in the double crochet, with 1 chain between, in purple and 1 row the same in gray.

For border on front edges of shawl, make 1 row in purple in the same stitch as on shawl.

2nd row: On same side in gray: Make 1 single and 2 double crochet in 1st space, skip 1 space and repeat the same on top of next stitch. Continue this to end of row.

Put fringe on the 2 sides. For fringe, cut the threads 8 inches. Take 3 threads, double them as 1 thread and put the loop through space on edge, then draw ends through loop.

Scarf Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

134
SUNLIGHT Lusterine Wool, 12 balls
1 Pair amber Knitting Needles, No. 5
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
Illustration — Scarf Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This shawl is knitted in the plain stitch and fringe is put on both ends. Cast on needle 100 stitches. Knit plain, forward and back. Two rows make 1 rib and for the length of shawl 200 ribs or 56 inches long. Then bind off.

1st row of border: Make the shell stitch.

Start with 3 single very loose crochet stitches, 1 double crochet stitch and put your needle in the second stitch of shawl. Make 1 single crochet stitch and repeat 2 double stitches in the same hole, leave 5 stitches between, and repeat the 4 double stitches across the shawl.

2nd row: Repeat the same stitches, only put your stitches in the middle of each shell stitch.

For Fringe: Cut the threads 15 inches long. Take 17 threads, double them as 1 thread and put this loop through middle of the first shell stitch, then draw ends through loop tightly.

2nd row: Take half of 1st and half of 2nd bunch of yarn and tie a knot ½ inch below the 1st row, all across the shawl.

Cut fringe even.

A stitch can also be taken in back of shawl if the hood effect is desired.

Woman’s Knitted Scarf — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

135
For details see First Stitches, page 12
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
7 skeins colored
1 skein white
1 skein contrasting color
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 4
Illustration — Woman’s Knitted Scarf — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for old rose and black.)

This pretty scarf in old rose is knitted in the plain stitch with black and white border.

Begin with old rose and cast on 50 stitches. Knit plain forward and back. Two rows make 1 rib. Knit 17 ribs.

Start Border: Make 1 rib in white, 8 ribs in black, 1 rib in white, 8 ribs in old rose, 1 rib in white, 8 ribs in black and 1 rib in white. Break off the yarn each time color is changed. Tie the yarn ends together close to the stitch and knit 1st stitch on the next row. Fasten the yarn ends afterwards.

Knit for the length of 36 inches in old rose, then make border on other end of scarf to correspond.

Fringe in old rose. Cut up 1 skein of the yarn in ends, 14 inches in length. Take 4 yarn ends together, double them and put the loops through a coarse needle. Put the needle from underneath through a stitch in 1st row on end of scarf; remove the needle, pull the yarn ends through the loops and tighten. Repeat this in every other stitch on both ends of scarf. Cut fringe even 5½ inches deep.

Shetland Floss Scarf — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

136
Double Thread
For details see First Stitches, page 12
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
8 skeins one color
1 skein different color
2 skeins third color
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 3
Illustration — Shetland Floss Scarf — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for black, white and yellow.)

This black scarf is knitted in the plain stitch with white and yellow border.

Wind the yarn into 2 balls, and knit with 2 threads of the yarn.

Start with black, and cast on 55 stitches. Knit plain forward and back. 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit 20 ribs.

Start border: Make 1 rib in white, 8 ribs in yellow, 1 rib in white, 9 ribs in black, 1 rib in white, 8 ribs in yellow and 1 rib in white.

Break off the yarn each time changing, tie the yarn ends together close to the stitch and knit 1st stitch on the next row. Fasten the yarn ends afterwards.

Knit for the length of 36 inches in black, then make border on other end of scarf to correspond.

Fringe in black: Cut up 1 skein of the yarn into ends, 14 inches in length. Take 6 yarn ends together, double them and put the loops through a coarse needle. Put the needle down through a stitch in 1st row on end of scarf. Remove the needle, pull the yarn ends all at once through the loops and tighten. Repeat this in every other stitch on both ends of scarf. Cut fringe even, 5½ inches deep.

Shetland Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

137
Size 48 inches square
SUNLIGHT Shetland Floss
8 skeins white
3 skeins colored
1 Amber Crochet Hook, No. 4
Illustration — Shetland Shawl — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and blue.)

Begin with a chain of 4 stitches and join to a ring.

1st row: Make a single crochet in the ring; then make a chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet and repeat this, until you have the chain of 3 stitches, 8 times. Join row with a slip stitch in 1st single crochet.

2nd row: Make a slip stitch in the chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet in center of same chain, taking up in double stitch. Now make a chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet in center of next chain of 3 stitches on 1st row, then a chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet again in center of same chain. This makes the increasing for the corner.

Repeat increasing in every other chain on 1st row (4 corners). Join row by making a slip stitch in the single crochet.

3rd row: Make a chain of 3 stitches and a single crochet in center of 1st chain of 3 stitches on preceding row. Repeat this; increase in the corners same as on 2nd row and work around without joining.

Continue until you have about 14 inches from center.

Next row. Start border with blue yarn: Make a loop on the hook (to start with). * Put yarn over hook and take up 1 loop in space below the chain of 3 stitches; yarn over, take up another loop in same space. Put yarn over hook and pull through 4 loops, yarn over, pull through 2 loops; make a chain of 2 stitches and repeat from * to end of row, increasing 1 stitch in each corner.

Make another row in white and 1 in blue.

Work 5 rows in white, same as at start, 4 rows in blue, with the stitch for border, 5 rows in white, same as at start, 1 row in blue, 1 row in white and 1 row in blue with the stitch for border, then 5 rows in white same as at start.

Make scallops on edge.

1st row, in white: Make 2 double crochet, 1 chain and 2 more double crochet in every other space on preceding row, closer in corners.

2nd row, in blue: Make a slip stitch over the chain of 3 stitches between 2 scallops on preceding row, then make a chain of 8 138stitches and another slip stitch over the next chain between 2 scallops, and repeat.

3rd row, in white: Make 2 double crochet, 1 chain and 2 more double crochet over the blue chain and the 1 chain in center of scallop on preceding row and repeat this in every scallop.

4th row, in blue: Make a slip stitch between 2 scallops on preceding row. Make 1 chain and 1 double crochet in space between the 1st and 2nd double crochet, 1 chain and 1 double crochet in next space.

Make the picot: A chain of 3 stitches, make 1 single crochet in the 2 loops below the chain. Make 1 double crochet in same space in center, 1 chain and 1 double crochet in next space, 1 chain and the slip stitch between the scallops and repeat to end of row.

Striped Sweater — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

139
Size, Bust 36. Length 27 inches.

For details, see First Stitches, pages 12–16

SUNLIGHT Spanish Knitting Worsted, 13 skeins Black
SUNLIGHT Saxony, 6 skeins Green
4 steel Knitting Needles, No. 13, 4 No. 15, and 2 No. 10
1 6-inch Bone Crochet Hook, No. 3
4 Button-molds, 1½ inches in diameter
Illustration — Striped Sweater — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This sweater is knitted lengthwise in the plain stitch with black and green yarn. The buttons are knitted also.

Begin at left side front, use black yarn and No. 13 needles. Cast on 190 stitches. Divide the stitches on 2 needles and start knitting with the 3rd one, or you could use only 2 needles, carrying all the stitches on 1 needle, if you put a little sealing wax on one end of each needle to prevent the stitches from sliding off. (Knit 1st stitch on first row and every time, when stitches are added, slip 1st stitch on every row except when changing the yarn, then knit 1st stitch.)

Knit 2 rows plain (2 rows make 1 rib). Let the stitches run easy on needle. Knit 3rd row plain, add (cast on) 1 stitch and knit 4th row plain. Make another rib and add 1 stitch on same side as before. Three ribs (6 rows) make 1 black stripe.

Start with the green yarn (at bottom of sweater) and make 1 row plain, add 2 stitches (at neck of sweater) and purl the stitches on next row. Two rows make 1 green stripe.

For every turning at the bottom of sweater twist the threads around once to keep the edge firm.

Repeat, making 1 black stripe, adding at neck 1 stitch for each rib and 1 green stripe, adding at neck 2 stitches, until you have 7 black and 7 green stripes. Add 16 stitches to shoulder. (240 stitches is the length of sweater.) Make 7 black and 7 green stripes.

Knit the pocket on the front part. Start with green yarn at bottom of sweater and pick up 45 stitches in the last row of the 5th black stripe from front edge (take up 1 stitch in each stitch of the row). Make 10 green and 9 black stripes for the pocket. Start with the black yarn, as before, and knit pocket in with the front part (take 1 stitch from each needle and knit as 1).

Make 2 black stripes and 1 green (9 black and 8 green stripes the width of shoulder). Bind off 63 stitches for armhole. Make 9 green and 8 black stripes. Add 63 stitches for back. Make 29 black and 28 green stripes for the width of back. Knit the other side to correspond.

Sleeve: Cast on 50 stitches with black yarn. Knit 1 rib and add 5 stitches. Knit 3rd row plain. Start with the green (at top of sleeve) and add 5 stitches at end of row. Repeat making the stripes, adding 5 stitches for every turning toward the bottom of sleeve, until the number of stitches is increased by 95 (19 turnings). Add 20 more stitches (165 stitches is the length of sleeve). Make 25½ black stripes from start. Make the green stripe, then 2 ribs of the next black stripe and start the binding off in same order as you added.

Border: Make border to go around neck down the front edges. Use black yarn, work with 2 threads of the yarn and No. 10 needles. Cast on 12 stitches. Knit plain forward and back, making the strip about 1¾ yards long.

140Cuff: Use black yarn (single) and No. 13 needles. Cast on 40 stitches and knit for the length of 7 inches.

Buttons: Use black yarn and No. 15 needles. Cast on 30 stitches. Divide the stitches on 3 needles, join to a circle and knit plain 10 rows.

Start decreasing:

1st row: Knit 4, decrease 1 (knit 2 stitches together as 1).

2nd row: Plain.

3rd row: Knit 3, decrease 1.

4th row: Plain.

5th row: Knit 2, decrease 1.

6th row: Plain.

7th row: Knit 1, decrease 1.

8th row: Decrease 1 for every 2 stitches.

Break off the yarn a few inches from work and with a darning needle run the end of the yarn through the remaining 5 stitches, draw together and fasten. Use the wrong side of work out, put the mould in, run a thread through the edge, draw together and fasten.

Sew garment together.

Put the sleeves in, so that seam of sleeve comes in middle of side a little toward the front.

Sew cuff on and turn up about 3 inches.

Sew border on, holding in the garment a little around neck.

Sew together at bottom of pocket.

Make 1 row of the single crochet (in black) on edge of border and at top of pocket.

Sew buttons on: Place 1st button at neck at the end of 1st black stripe on left side front. Put the other buttons on close to border, or on edge of border about 4 inches apart.

Crochet loops for the buttons on the edge of right side front.

Hunting Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

141
For details see First Stitches, pages 12–13
SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted, 1 skein
6 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
Illustration — Hunting Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

These mittens are knitted with gray yarn. They are very practical for the sport, as the trigger-finger on one mitten is made separate.

Cast on 52 stitches. Divide the stitches on 3 needles. Join, knit 2 and purl 2 for the length of 4½ inches.

Make the next row plain, increasing 1 stitch on 2nd needle and 1 stitch on 3rd needle.

To increase: Knit 1 stitch plain, then knit another stitch in back of the 1st stitch.

To decrease: Knit 2 stitches together as one.

Start increasing for thumb: 1st row: Knit plain 8 stitches, increase 1 stitch, knit 2, increase 1, knit 8 stitches (1st needle), then knit plain to end of row.

Repeat this increase of 2 stitches every 3rd row, 6 times, then every 2nd row, twice.

Always have 8 stitches on each side of the increases for thumb, so that the 2 stitches increased each time, will be added to the number of stitches between the increases.

Knit 3 rows.

Leave the 20 stitches between the increases for thumb on a spare needle. Add 3 stitches in back of thumb to the 52 stitches around the hand and knit 3 rows. Decrease 1 stitch in back of thumb and knit 14 rows.

Make the forefinger: Take 8 stitches on each side of the increases for thumb, the 2 stitches in back of thumb and add 2 stitches (20 in all). Divide the stitches on 3 needles, knit around and make 22 rows.

Start decreasing: Knit 3, decrease 1 and repeat to end of row. Knit 3 rows. Knit 2, decrease 1 and repeat to end of row. Knit 2 rows. Knit 1, decrease 1 and repeat to end of row, then decrease for every stitch until finished. Break off the yarn and fasten.

Pick up the 2 stitches at base of forefinger knit around and make 22 rows. Decrease in same order as on forefinger: Make 7 decreases on 1st row. Knit first 3 rows between the decreasing rows, then knit 2 rows between, 1 row between and at last decrease every row until finished.

Make the thumb: Take the 20 stitches on the spare needle and pick up the 3 stitches at base of thumb. Make 3 rows. Decrease 1 stitch in back of thumb, make 14 rows and decrease same as on forefinger.

Make 32 rows from base of thumb to decreasing on the other mitten. Decrease 9 stitches on 1st row (knit 4, decrease 1). Make 4 rows, decrease and repeat in same order as on first mitten.

Man’s Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

142
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted, 1 skein
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Man’s Mittens — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Right hand mitten.

Cast on 52 stitches.

Divide the stitches on 3 needles.

Join and work around; knit 2 and purl 2 for the length of 3½ inches. Knit plain 5 rows.

Next row: Knit 2 needles and start increasing for thumb on 3rd needle: Knit 1, increase 1, knit 2, increase 1 and finish the row.

To increase: Put the same stitch that you knitted last stitch from on left hand needle and knit a stitch from the back.

Repeat this increasing every 2nd row, 9 times more, always having the 2 additional stitches between the 2 increasing places. Knit plain 2 rows.

Now leave 22 stitches for thumb. Take a coarse thread and sewing needle and put the stitches on the thread.

Add 8 stitches in back of thumb. Knit around 2 rows.

Next row: Decrease 2 of the added stitches, the 1st one and the last one. Repeat this decreasing every 2nd row, 2 times more, always having 2 stitches less between each decreasing.

Now there are 52 stitches around the hand.

Knit 33 rows from base of thumb.

Next row: Knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, then pass the slipped stitch over the last knitted one. Knit to within 3 stitches on 2nd needle, then knit 2 together, knit 1. Decrease on 3rd needle same as on 1st needle and on 4th needle same as on 2nd needle.

Repeat this decreasing every 3rd row 3 times, then every 2nd row, 5 times; decrease every row until there are 8 stitches left. Break off the yarn, leaving the end of the yarn a few inches long. Put the stitches on the yarn end, draw together and fasten.

Divide the stitches for the thumb on 2 needles and pick up 8 of the added stitches. Knit around 2 rows.

Decrease in back of thumb 6 stitches, same as on the hand, that will leave 24 stitches around.

Knit 20 rows from base of thumb.

Next row: Knit 2, decrease 1 and repeat to end of row. Knit 2 rows. Knit 1, decrease 1 and repeat to end of row.

Knit 1 row, then decrease every stitch until finished.

Make the left hand mitten to correspond.

Man’s Wristlets — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

143
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown, 1 skein
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Man’s Wristlets — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on needle 56 stitches. Divide the stitches on 3 needles. Join, work around; knit 2 and purl 2 for the length of 5½ inches.

Bind off loosely.

Knee Caps — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

144
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted—1½ skeins
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 15
Illustration — Knee Caps — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 84 stitches with the finer needles.

Divide the stitches on 3 needles. Join and work around; knit 1, purl 1 and repeat for 50 rows.

Use the coarser needles and knit 10 rows. On last row knit to within 4 stitches; turn and work with needle with the 4 stitches on. Knit to within 4 stitches on the row (8 from turning). Turn again and knit to within 7 stitches on the row; turn and knit back, and forth, leaving 3 stitches on the needle for each turning. Repeat until there are 36 stitches left in center.

Now reverse. Knit (instead of leave) 3 more stitches for each turning and on the 2 last rows 4 stitches for each turning.

Knit 10 rows as before.

Change for the finer needles and knit 50 rows. Bind off.

Man’s Cap — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

145
For detail see the Patent Stitch, page 20
SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted, 1 skein
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
1 steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
Illustration — Man’s Cap — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

This cap is knitted in the Patent Stitch.

Begin on the Turnover and cast on 99 stitches (uneven number).

1st row: Knit 1st stitch (on 1st row only); * keep yarn in front of needle and slip 1 stitch with the yarn, knit plain the next stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Now for every row, always slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch and also knit plain last stitch.

2nd row: * Knit yarn over needle and the slip stitch together as 1 stitch, put yarn in front of needle and slip the knitted stitch with the yarn and repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd row for the work.

Knit for the length of 7½ inches.

Every other stitch with the yarn over the needle is counted for 1 stitch. 2 stitches make 1 rib. 2 needles forward and back complete 1 row in the Patent Stitch.

Start decreasing: * Knit 7 ribs, decrease 1 rib and repeat from * to end of row (6 decreasings).

To decrease: Knit yarn over needle and 1 stitch together as before (last stitch of 7th rib), then knit yarn over needle and 2 stitches together (8th rib). Slip first knitted stitch over the last knitted one. This will decrease 2 stitches (1 rib).

Knit 5 rows (10 needles), then decrease same as before. Now there will be 6 ribs between the decreasing places (1 rib less for each time).

Repeat decreasing, having 4 rows between the decreasing rows next time, then 3 rows between, 2 rows, 1 row twice and at last 1 needle.

Last row: Slip 1st stitch, knit yarn over needle and 1 stitch; slip 1st stitch over the knitted one. * Knit yarn over and 2 stitches together and repeat from *, knit last stitch (8 on needle).

Break off the yarn 1 yard from work. Thread a needle and run it through the stitches, draw together and fasten. You have a chain along each edge; sew together the inside loops of the chains.

Crochet a button and put in center of crown.

Button: Make a chain of 2 stitches.

1st row. Make 10 single crochet in 1st stitch of the chain, join.

2nd row: Work 2 single crochet in every 2nd stitch on preceding row.

3rd row: Make 2 single crochet in every 3rd stitch on preceding row.

Make 3 rows plain, then decrease every other stitch for 2 rows.

Have wrong side of work out.

Wind a little of the yarn over 2 fingers and put inside button, then sew it on the cap.

Man’s Helmet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

146
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown—5 skeins
5 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
Illustration — Man’s Helmet — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on needle 60 stitches. Knit plain forward and back for the length of 5 inches.

Leave the stitches on needle and make another piece like 1st one.

Divide the stitches (120) on 4 needles. Take 16 stitches from front of cape and 16 stitches from back of cape on one needle for one side and the same for the other side; that will leave 28 stitches on each needle for front and back of cape.

Work around; knit 2, purl 2, and repeat for the length of 3 inches for neck.

Leave 1 needle with 28 stitches on for front.

Knit plain forward and back; 2 rows make 1 rib. Knit 6 ribs.

Next row increase 2 stitches in back of helmet: Knit 12 stitches on needle in back, increase 1, knit 4, increase 1, knit 12. Repeat this increasing in back for every 4th rib, 3 times more.

Work 36 ribs from neck.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle in back every 3rd rib 3 times. Make 3 ribs.

Leave the 2 needles on the sides and continue with plain knitting on needle in back for top of helmet. For each row knit the last stitch together with 1 stitch from needle on side and that will join the sides as you go along.

Leave the stitches of last row on needle.

Pick up the stitches on each side in front (1 stitch for each rib).

Start on needle in front with knit 2, purl 2, and repeat around for 22 rows. Bind off.

Man’s Heavy Knitted Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

147
SUNLIGHT Golf Yarn, 2 skeins
Four Knitting Needles, No. 14
Illustration — Man’s Heavy Knitted Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 60 stitches, 20 stitches on each of three needles.

Work, in rib of knit 2 and purl 2, for 32 rounds. Work 11 inches in plain knitting with no shaping.

For the heel put 30 stitches on the first needle, then equally divide the remaining stitches (required for the instep) on the second and third needles, both of which should be left until the heel is finished.

On the 30 stitches knit, alternately plain and purl, 30 rows, always slipping the first stitch. To turn the heel knit 18, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted, turn, purl 8, purl 2 together, turn, knit 8, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted, turn, purl 8, purl 2 together, turn, knit 8, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Continue working in this manner until all the stitches are worked in, leaving the 9 stitches on the needle under the heel. Knit the 2 center stitches together.

For the instep, follow on with the first needle and knit up 15 stitches on the side of the heel; knit on to the second needle the 30 stitches which were left for the instep when commencing the heel; then, with the third needle, knit up 15 stitches on the other side of the heel while adding 4 from the first needle.

Knit 2 rounds plain, then begin the decreasings. Knit the 3rd and 4th stitches together from the end of the first needle, and on the third needle, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted. Do this in every third round until there are 15 stitches on each of the first and third needles. Knit without shaping until the work measures 7 inches from the heel.

For the toe, * knit to the last three stitches on the first needle, knit 2 together, knit 1; on the instep needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted, knit to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1; on the third needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit to the end of the needle.

Knit 1 round plain. Repeat from * until the toe is reduced to 24 stitches.

Divide the instep and foot stitches equally on to two needles. Turn the sock inside out and cast off the two needles together.

Man’s Knitted Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

148
Size 10½

For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16

SUNLIGHT Spanish Knitting Worsted, 3 skeins
5 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 15
Illustration — Man’s Knitted Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

Cast on 80 stitches.

Divide the stitches on 4 needles. Join and work around; knit 2, purl 2 and repeat for the length of 4½ inches.

Knit plain 32 rows.

Next row: Knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, then pass the slipped stitch over the last knitted one. Knit plain to within 3 stitches on the row, knit 2 together, knit last stitch.

Repeat this decreasing in back of sock every 7th row, 4 times more.

Knit 25 rows.

Start the heel above decreasing; take 2 stitches from each needle in front, that will leave 18 stitches on each needle in front and 17 stitches on each needle for heel.

Knit heel back and forth; purl the stitches on wrong side. Always slip 1st stitch for each row, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch when purling the row. Knit 30 rows.

Next row on right side: Knit 1st needle; on 2nd needle knit 1, knit 2 stitches together, purl 1, turn. Slip 1st stitch, knit 4, then from next needle purl 1, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Slip 1st stitch, knit 4, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn. Slip 1st stitch, purl 5, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn.

Repeat the 2 last rows, adding 1 stitch for every row, until all the stitches on each side are taken up.

Now leave the stitches on needle and pick up 16 stitches on each side of heel. Divide all the stitches for heel on 2 needles. Knit 3 rows around.

Next row: Knit 1, decrease 1; at end of same needle decrease 1. Repeat this on last needle of row.

Knit 3 rows, then make the same decreasing on 1st and last needles. Knit 2 rows.

Next row: Decrease 1 at end of 1st needle and at start of 4th needle and repeat this every 3rd row, 3 times more.

Knit plain for the length of 4¾ inches.

Start decreasing for toe.

1st row: Knit to within 3 stitches on 1st needle, then knit 2 together, knit last stitch. Next needle: Knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, then pass the slipped stitch over the last knitted one.

Make this decreasing on other side of sock, same row.

Repeat 1st row for every 3rd row until there are 20 stitches left. Put the stitches on 2 needles, having the decreasings at the ends of the needles.

Bind off both needles together: Take 1 stitch from each needle and knit as 1; knit another stitch same way, then slip the 1st stitch over the last knitted one.

Boy’s Sweater — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

149
Size 36

For detail see Patent Stitch, Page 20

SUNLIGHT German Knitting Worsted, 7 skeins
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 14
6 Pearl Buttons, ⅝-inch
3 Pearl Buttons, ½ inch
Illustration — Boy’s Sweater — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for brown.)

Start at bottom of back and cast on with bone needles 90 stitches (even number).

1st row: Knit 1st stitch (on 1st row only); * purl 1, yarn over needle, knit 1 and repeat from *, ending row with purl 1, turn.

To put yarn over needle: When knitting, you have the yarn over the left forefinger. Place the right hand needle back of the yarn and knit.

2nd row: Slip 1 (always slip 1st stitch); * purl 1, knit yarn over needle and 1 stitch together and repeat from *, ending row with purl 1. Repeat these 2 rows for the border. Knit 12 rows for border. Decrease 1 stitch at end of needle, so as to get an uneven number of stitches, then continue with the Patent Stitch.

1st row: Slip 1st stitch, * keep yarn in front of needle and slip 1 stitch with the yarn, knit plain the next stitch and repeat from * to end of row.

Now for every row always slip 1st stitch, having the yarn to the left side of the stitch and also knit plain last stitch.

2nd row: * Knit yarn over needle and the slipped stitch together as 1 stitch, put yarn in front of needle and slip the knitted stitch with the yarn and repeat from * to end of row. Repeat 2nd row for the work. Knit until you have the length of 17½ inches (with border) to armhole.

Decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle, 3 times, having ½ inch between each decreasing row. Do all the decreasing on this garment 3 stitches from the edge.

To decrease: Knit yarn over needle and 1 stitch together as before, then knit yarn over needle and 2 stitches together. Slip first knitted stitch over the last knitted one. This will decrease 2 stitches. Continue knitting until the back is 23½ inches long.

Knit 8 rows of the stitch for the border and bind off.

Front: Begin at bottom and cast on 46 stitches. Knit border the same as on back. Have uneven number of stitches, then continue with the Patent Stitch for the length of 17½ inches (with border) to armhole. Decrease 2 stitches at armhole, 3 times, having ½ inch between each decreasing row, then decrease in front 2 stitches, 5 150times, having 1 inch between each decreasing row (29). Knit a few more rows until the front is 23½ inches long.

Work 8 rows of the stitch for the border and bind off.

Make the other front to correspond.

Sleeve: Cast on 75 stitches. Knit for the length of 4 inches. Decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle, 3 times, having 1¼ inches between each decreasing row. Knit for the length of 6½ inches. Decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle, 2 times, having 1¼ inches between the decreasing rows. Repeat knitting until the sleeve is 15½ inches long.

Work 6 rows of the stitch for the border.

Cuff: Change to steel needles; knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 3½ inches and bind off.

Pocket: Cast on 25 stitches and knit for the length of 4 inches. Work 8 rows of the stitch for the border and bind off.

Front strip: Start at neck and cast on 33 stitches. Knit as before for the length of 1½ inches. Decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle, 6 times, having 1 inch between each decreasing row.

Now there are 9 stitches left on the strip. Knit for the length of ½ inch, then make a buttonhole as follows: Knit 3 stitches, bind off 3 stitches, cast on 3 stitches, knit them, then knit the remaining 3 stitches on the row. Repeat knitting, making the buttonholes 3½ inches apart. Make 6 buttonholes.

Make strip the same length as front part.

Knit another strip like this one for the other front, omitting the buttonholes.

Collar: Cast on 85 stitches. Knit 6 needles, then decrease 2 stitches at each end of needle, 14 times, having ⅓ of an inch between each decreasing row. Make collar 5 inches wide and bind off.

Sew garment together. Put seam of sleeve to seam in the side. Sew strips to front edges, having the buttonholes on left side front. Put short side of collar to neck and the ends to the front strips, making it even on the edge. Sew on pocket, 2 inches from front strip and on top of border at bottom. Put facing under narrow part of strip on front edges. Finish the buttonholes with silk and sew on buttons. Make 3 loops for buttonholes on edge of collar (wide part of strip) and sew on the small buttons to fit tight around neck.

Notice: 2 needles (forward and back) complete 1 row in the Patent Stitch. 7 rows (14 needles) measure 1 inch.

Man’s Sweater Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

151
Size 40
SUNLIGHT German
Knitting Worsted, 6 skeins
1 pair Bone Knitting Needles, No. 2
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 14
6 ¾-inch Pearl Buttons
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
Illustration — Man’s Sweater Coat — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for gray.)

Begin at bottom of back and cast on with bone needles 136 stitches (even number).

1st row: Knit 1st stitch (on 1st row only); * purl 1, yarn over needle, knit 1 and repeat from *, ending row with purl 1, turn.

To put yarn over needle: When knitting, you have the yarn over the left forefinger. Place the right handle needle back of the yarn and knit.

2nd row: Slip 1 (always slip 1st stitch); * purl 1, knit yarn over needle and 1 stitch together and repeat from *, ending row with purl 1. Repeat these 2 rows for the border.

Knit for the length of 1½ inches for border. Continue with knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 21 inches to shoulder (22½ with border). Bind off 8 stitches at each end of needle.

Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every row for 36 rows, then there are 48 stitches left for neck; bind off.

Front: Start at bottom and cast on 80 stitches. Knit border the same as on back. Continue with knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 17 inches to armhole (with border).

Bind off 12 stitches for armhole, then decrease 1 stitch at armhole (3 stitches from edge) every other row, 4 times (64).

Knit 25 rows from armhole.

Decrease in front (3 stitches from edge) 1 stitch every other row, 20 times. Knit for the length of ¾ inch, then knit 6 rows of the stitch for the border and bind off (44).

Make the other side to correspond.

Sleeve: Cast on 120 stitches. Knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 3½ inches. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every other row, 8 times (always decrease 3 stitches from edge). Knit for the length of 6 inches. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of needle every 3rd row, 10 times.

152Repeat knitting until the sleeve is 16½ inches long. Work 4 rows of the stitch for the border.

Cuff: Change for steel needles; knit 1 and purl 1 for the length of 4 inches. Bind off.

Pocket: Cast on 40 stitches and knit as before for the length of 5 inches. Knit 6 rows of the stitch for border and bind off.

Make a strip for border to go around neck and along both front sides. Cast on 12 stitches for strip. Make the same stitch for border as before.

Knit 8 rows, then make a buttonhole as follows: Knit 4 stitches, bind off 4 stitches in center of row, cast on 4 stitches, knit them and knit the remaining 4 stitches on the row. Repeat knitting as before, making the buttonholes 3¾ inches apart. Make 6 buttonholes. Finish the strip for length required.

Sew garment together. Put seam of sleeve on front part, 1 inch from seam on the side. Sew border to front edges and neck, having the buttonholes on left side front. Sew pocket on, 3 inches from border in front and on top of border at bottom. Put facing under strip on front edges and around neck. Finish the buttonholes with silk and sew on buttons. Make 1 row in the slip stitch around bottom to correspond with the other edges.

Ribbed Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

153
Size 6
SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
2 skeins white
2 skeins colored
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 15
Illustration — Ribbed Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and pink.)

These serviceable bed socks are crocheted with the ribs alternating in pink and white. A pretty border is worked at top and a cord with little pompons on is pulled through to tie with.

The top is to be worked lengthwise; begin at back and make a chain of 25 stitches with the white yarn.

Work 1st row in the single crochet; then make 1 chain and turn.

2nd row: Repeat the single crochet and take up in the back of the stitches; make 1 chain and turn.

These 2 rows make 1 rib.

Use pink for next rib, then repeat with 1 rib in white and 1 rib in pink until you have 7 ribs.

Now add for top of foot, a chain of 25 stitches in pink and make 1 rib. Add 3 more stitches for the toe and work next rib in white. Work 7 ribs in all, making the last rib 3 stitches shorter at toe, same as 1st rib. Make 6 more ribs (24 stitches in length) for the other side and crochet sock together with a chain stitch.

Take the white yarn and start in back for foot. Make 1 single crochet for each row below, and on the added part 1 single crochet for each stitch below.

Work around, taking up in the double stitch. Make 6 rows; then 2 rows in pink and 6 more rows in white. On the last 3 rows decrease 1 stitch for each row at the toe and heel. Put both sides together with the chain stitch.

Make border at top of sock.

1st row, in pink: Work 1 single crochet for each row below.

2nd row, in white: Start with 1 double crochet, make another double crochet across this one, taking up in the 2nd stitch on row below to the right side of 1st double crochet. This will make 1 stitch. Next stitch: Make 1st double crochet in 2nd stitch on row below, and put 2nd double crochet in same place as preceding stitch and repeat. This row is for the cord.

Work last row in pink. Fasten the yarn and make a chain of 6 stitches. Take up 3 loops, 1 in each of the first 3 stitches on the chain, and 2 more loops in the next 2 stitches on row below. Put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once. Now make a chain of 5 stitches, take up 1 loop in 4th stitch from needle, 1 loop below the chain, 1 loop in back of last loop on preceding stitch, then 2 more loops in the next 2 stitches on row below. Yarn over and pull through as before and repeat this stitch to end of row.

154Make a chain 20 inches long, with the yarn double for the cord. Pull through at top and put pompons on.

Pompons: Cut 2 round pieces 1¼ inches in diameter from thin cardboard and make a hole in center ⅜ of an inch. Use the yarn double and sew over and over until the hole is filled. Cut the threads between the cardboards, take a strong linen thread and wind around between boards a few times and tie. Remove the cardboards, trim ball even and fasten to cord.

For other sizes, work more or less ribs and make the length of ribs on top of foot according to size.

Knitted Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

155
For detail see First Stitches, Knitting, pages 12–16
SUNLIGHT Saxony Yarn
2 skeins white
2 skeins colored
2 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 13
5 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 15
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
1⅓ yards Ribbon, ½ inch wide
Illustration — Knitted Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
(Written for white and brown.)

These bed socks, so out of the ordinary, fit snugly on almost any foot because of their elasticity.

Begin at the top with the brown yarn, use the coarser needles and cast on 60 stitches.

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Purl all the stitches.

3rd row: Knit plain.

4th row: Purl.

5th row: Knit plain.

6th row: Purl.

These rows make 1 rib. The purled stitches will come on right side of sock.

Start with the white yarn and purl 1st row. 2nd row knit plain, 3rd row purl, and 4th row knit plain. These 4 rows are knitted plain on right side of sock. Repeat them between every brown rib. Work 13 brown ribs.

Start the toe in white.

1st row: Purl the stitches.

2nd row: Knit plain, and decrease 1 stitch at each end of row.

Now repeat and knit plain on right side of sock and purl the stitches on the other side. Decrease 1 stitch at each end of every row. Repeat until there are 4 stitches left. Leave the 4 stitches on needle and pick up all the stitches on both edges for front. Use the finer needles and take up 1 stitch for every 2 rows, or 5 stitches for each brown rib and white stripe. Pick up 1 stitch for every row at the toe, 30 stitches in all, on one side, and the same on other edge. Now divide all the stitches on 4 needles. Start with white yarn on right side of sock.

1st row: Knit plain.

2nd row: Purl, and decrease 4 stitches at the toe: 1 stitch on each side of the 4 remaining stitches, and 1 more stitch on each side 10 stitches from 1st increasing.

Repeat this increasing 2 times more on every other row.

Knit plain on right side of sock and purl on the other side. Make 2 more rows in white, then 2 rows in brown, 4 in white and 2 in brown and bind off. Sew front together.

156Crochet border at top. 1st row, in white: Make a chain of 3 stitches, take up 2 loops from the chain and 2 loops, 1 in each stitch, on the rib below. Put yarn over hook and pull through all on needle at once and make 1 chain. Next stitch: Take up 1st loop in the space below the 1 chain and 2nd loop in the back of last loop on preceding stitch. Pick up the 2 last loops as before and repeat to end of row.

2nd row in white: Work 1 double crochet and make 1 chain for each star stitch on row below. This row is for the ribbon.

Last row, in brown: Make 1 single crochet and 4 double crochet between every other double crochet on row below.

Pull ribbon through and tie.

Knitted Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS

157
Size 6

For detail see First Stitches, Crocheting, pages 10–11

SUNLIGHT four-fold Germantown
2 skeins white
1 skein colored
4 Steel Knitting Needles, No. 12
1 Steel Crochet Hook, No. 7, Style 2
Illustration — Knitted Bed Socks — MATERIALS — INSTRUCTIONS — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting

These comfortable looking bed socks are made in white and lavender. At top a pretty scallop is crocheted and a cord is pulled through to tie.

Start at top with the white yarn and cast on 48 stitches.

Knit 2, purl 2; work forward and back and make 3 rows. Work 2 rows in lavender and 2 more rows in white. Next row in lavender: * Knit the 2 plain stitches together as 1, put yarn over needle and purl the 2 purled stitches together as 1, yarn over needle and repeat from * to end of row.

2nd row: Knit yarn over needle as 1 stitch. These 2 rows will make the holes for the cord.

Now repeat with 2 rows in white and 2 rows in lavender until you have 6 stripes in lavender from start.

Begin with the white yarn and make 1 row same as before.

2nd row: Purl all the stitches.

3rd row: Purl.

4th row: Knit plain.

5th row: Purl.

Leave 15 stitches on each side of work on separate needles and knit plain the 18 stitches in middle; turn, and knit plain forward and back for the length of 22 ribs (2 rows make 1 rib). Make 4 more ribs and decrease 3 stitches on each side. Keep the remaining 12 stitches on needle; pick up with the other 2 needles with stitches on, 26 stitches on each side of last knitted part, 1 stitch for each rib. Now you have 106 stitches in all; divide them on 3 needles and knit plain forward and back 2 ribs or 4 rows. Then make 2 rows in lavender, 6 rows in white, 2 in lavender and 5 in white.

Decrease 3 stitches at toe on the last rows.

Put the stitches on 2 needles, same number on both, then crochet sock together. Work on same side you knitted 1st row at start. Begin at toe, make a loop on the crochet hook and put 1st stitch from each needle on same; yarn over and pull through all on hook. Put 2nd stitch from each needle on hook and repeat. Crochet together in back also.

Crochet border at top of sock. Work 1st row in lavender: Make 2 double crochet, both in same place in a rib; make 1 chain and repeat the same in every rib.

Next row in white: * Work 1 single crochet in the 1 chain on row below, then make a chain of 3 stitches; skip 2 double 158crochet and make 3 double crochet in the next 1 chain, a chain of 3 stitches and repeat from *. This row finishes off the top.

Take 2 threads of the yarn, 1 in white and 1 in lavender, and make a chain 25 inches long for the cord. Pull through the holes made for it at top of sock.

Put a tassel on each end of cord and tie in front of sock.

Tassel: Wind the yarn over 4 fingers 10 times; tie a linen thread around hank in middle and fasten to end of cord. Pull the loops down and wind the yarn around a few times, ⅓ of an inch from cord. Cut even at bottom.

If different size is wanted make more or less ribs on the narrow part at top of foot.

Directions for Washing Articles Made from Worsted Yarns

159

Washing: Prepare a suds, not too strong, by shaving Wool Soap into very hot water, not boiling; add a few drops of ammonia and a pinch of borax.

Allow the garment to stand in the suds for a few minutes, then move it gently back and forth through the suds until clean. Do not rub soap on the article and do not rub it with the hands.

Rinsing and Drying: Wring the garment lightly with the hands, and rinse in clear warm water, moving it back and forth as in the suds. Repeat the rinsing in a second clear warm water; then wring the garment lightly with the hands, shake slightly and dry quickly in the open air, being careful not to stretch it.

160SUNLIGHT YARNS were used exclusively for all the work described in this book.

Knitters are advised to purchase at one time enough yarn to complete the work, in order to insure absolute uniformity of shade.

Expert advice on knitting and crocheting may be had by addressing The Thread Mills Co., Sunlight Yarn Dept., P. O. Box 428, Chicago

INDEX

161
Illustration — INDEX — from The Sunlight Book of Knitting and Crocheting
Sunlight YARNS

The SUNLIGHT trade mark guarantees that your knitting will be a satisfaction. That the finished article will be soft, elastic, woven of strong, firm threads—beautifully even, brilliantly dyed. That it will wear long—wash without fading—repay you for your hours of work on it.

It is important that you become familiar with the SUNLIGHT trade mark; that you look for it on every skein of yarn you buy.

This trade mark assures you that SUNLIGHT yarn has been tested and proven beyond question.

It GUARANTEES high grade wools, perfect spinning and dyeing, loftiness, elasticity—every wearing quality.

SUNLIGHT YARNS can be had in all colors:
SUNLIGHT GOLF YARN
SUNLIGHT GERMAN KNITTING WORTSED
SUNLIGHT GERMANTOWN—FOUR-FOLD
SUNLIGHT GERMANTOWN—EIGHT-FOLD
SUNLIGHT SAXONY
SUNLIGHT SPANISH WORSTED
SUNLIGHT SHETLAND FLOSS
SUNLIGHT EIDERDOWN WOOL
SUNLIGHT POMPADOUR WOOL
SUNLIGHT SHETLAND WOOL
SUNLIGHT ALLIANCE WORSTED
SUNLIGHT FAIRY FLOSS
SUNLIGHT CORAL YARN
SUNLIGHT LUSTERINE
SUNLIGHT ICE WOOL
SUNLIGHT ANGORA
TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES
  • Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.