After reading Alps and
Sanctuaries Mrs. Dowe said to Ballard: “You seem to
hear him talking to you all the time you are reading.”
I don’t think I ever heard a criticism of my books which
pleased me better, especially as Mrs. Dowe is one of the women I
have always liked.
I must get in about the people one meets. The man who
did not like parrots because they were too intelligent. And
the man who told me that Handel’s Messiah was
“très chic,” and the smell of the cyclamens
“stupendous.” And the man who said it was hard
to think the world was not more than 6000 years old, and we
encouraged him by telling him we thought it must be even more
than 7000. And the English lady who said of some one that
“being an artist, you know, of course he had a great deal
of poetical feeling.” And the man who was sketching
and said he had a very good eye for colour in the light, but
would I be good enough to tell him what colour was best for the
shadows.
“An amateur,” he said, “might do very decent
things in water-colour, but oils require genius.”
So I said: “What is genius?”
“Millet’s picture of the Angelus sold for
700,000 francs. Now that,” he said, “is
genius.”
After which I was very civil to him.
At Bellinzona a man told me that one of the two towers was
built by the Visconti and the other by Julius Cæsar, a
hundred years earlier. So, poor old Mrs. Barratt at Langar
could conceive no longer time than a hundred years. The
Trojan war did not last ten years, but ten years was as big a lie
as Homer knew.
We went over the Albula Pass to St. Moritz in two diligences
and could not settle which was tonic and which was dominant; but
the carriage behind us was the relative minor.
There was a picture in the dining-room but we could not get
near enough to see it; we thought it must be either Christ
disputing with the Doctors or Louis XVI saying farewell to his
family—or something of that sort.
The Sacro Monte is a kind of ecclesiastical Rosherville
Gardens, eminently the place to spend a happy day.
The processions were best at the last part of the ascent;
there were pilgrims, all decked out with coloured feathers, and
priests and banners and music and crimson and gold and white and
glittering brass against the cloudless blue sky. The old
priest sat at his open window to receive the offerings of the
devout as they passed, but he did not seem to get more than a few
bambini modelled in wax. Perhaps he was used to it.
And the band played the barocco music on the barocco little
piazza and we were all barocco together. It was as though
the clergymen at Ladywell had given out that, instead of having
service as usual, the congregation would go in procession to the
Crystal Palace with all their traps, and that the band had been
practising “Wait till the clouds roll by” for some
time, and on Sunday, as a great treat, they should have it.
The Pope has issued an order saying he will not have masses
written like operas. It is no use. The Pope can do
much, but he will not be able to get contrapuntal music into
Varese. He will not be able to get anything more solemn
than La Fille de Madame Angot into Varese. As for
fugues—! I would as soon take an English bishop to
the Surrey pantomime as to the Sacro Monte on a festa.
Then the pilgrims went into the shadow of a great rock behind
the sanctuary, spread themselves out over the grass and
dined.
The entrance to this hotel at Chiavenna is through a covered
court-yard; steps lead up to the roof of the court-yard, which is
a terrace where one dines in fine weather. A great tree
grows in the court-yard below, its trunk pierces the floor of the
terrace, and its branches shade the open-air dining-room.
The walls of the house are painted in fresco, with a check
pattern like the late Lord Brougham’s trousers, and there
are also pictures. One represents Mendelssohn. He is
not called Mendelssohn, but I knew him by his legs. He is
in the costume of a dandy of some five-and-forty years ago, is
smoking a cigar and appears to be making an offer of marriage to
his cook. [261] Down below is a fresco of a man
sitting on a barrel with a glass in his hand. A more
absolutely worldly minded, uncultured individual it would be
impossible to conceive. When I saw these frescoes I knew I
should get along all right and not be over-charged.
The public buys its opinions as it buys its meat, or takes in
its milk, on the principle that it is cheaper to do this than to
keep a cow. So it is, but the milk is more likely to be
watered.
I make them under the impression that I may use them in my
books, but I never do unless I happen to remember them at the
right time. When I wrote “Ramblings in
Cheapside” [in the Universal Review, reprinted in
Essays on Life, Art and Science] the preceding note
about Public Opinion would have come in admirably; it was in my
pocket, in my little black note-book, but I forgot all about it
till I came to post my pocket-book into my note-book.
There are Canterbury Pilgrims every Sunday in summer who start
from close to the old Tabard, only they go by the South-Eastern
Railway and come back the same day for five shillings. And,
what is more, they are just the same sort of people. If
they do not go to Canterbury they go by the Clacton Belle
to Clacton-on-Sea. There is not a Sunday the whole summer
through but you may find all Chaucer’s pilgrims, man and
woman for man and woman, on board the Lord of the Isles or
the Clacton Belle. Why, I have seen the Wife of Bath
on the Lord of the Isles myself. She was eating her
luncheon off an Ally Sloper’s Half-Holiday, which
was spread out upon her knees. Whether it was I who had had
too much beer or she I cannot tell, God knoweth; and whether or
no I was caught up into Paradise, again I cannot tell; but I
certainly did hear unspeakable words which it is not lawful for a
man to utter, and that not above fourteen years ago but the very
last Sunday that ever was. The Wife of Bath heard them too,
but she never turned a hair. Luckily I had my detective
camera with me, so I snapped her there and then. She put
her hand up to her mouth at that very moment and rather spoiled
herself, but not much. [1891.]
When I was in Rome last summer whom should I meet but
Horace.
I did not know him at first, and told him enquiringly that the
post-office was in the Piazza Venezia?
He smiled benignly, shrugged his shoulders, said
“Prego” and pointed to the post-office itself, which
was over the way and, of course, in the Piazza S. Silvestro.
Then I knew him. I believe he went straight home and
wrote an epistle to Mecænas, or whatever the man’s
name was, asking how it comes about that people who travel
hundreds of miles to see things can never see what is all the
time under their noses. In fact, I saw him take out his
note-book and begin making notes at once. He need not
talk. He was not a good man of business and I do not
believe his books sold much better than my own. But this
does not matter to him now, for he has not the faintest idea that
he ever wrote any of them and, more likely than not, has never
even refreshed his memory by reading them.
I have twice seen people so unmistakably like Beethoven (just
as Madame Patey is unmistakably like Handel and only wants
dressing in costume to be the image of him not in features only
but in figure and air and manner) that I always think of them as
Beethoven.
Once, at Faido in the Val Leventina, in 1876 or 1877, when the
engineers were there surveying for the tunnel, there was among
them a rather fine-looking young German with wild, ginger hair
that rang out to the wild sky like the bells in In
Memoriam, and a strong Edmund Gurney cut, [263] who played Wagner and was great upon
the overture to Lohengrin; as for Handel—he was not
worth consideration, etc. Well, this young man rather took
a fancy to me and I did not dislike him, but one day, to tease
him, I told him that a little insignificant-looking engineer, the
most commonplace mortal imaginable, who was sitting at the head
of the table, was like Beethoven. He was very like him
indeed, and Müller saw it, smiled and flushed at the same
time. He was short, getting on in years and was a little
thick, though not fat. A few days afterwards he went away
and Müller and I happened to meet his box—an enormous
cube of a trunk—coming down the stairs.
“That’s Beethoven’s box,” said
Müller to me.
“Oh,” I said, and, looking at it curiously for a
moment, asked gravely, “And is he inside it?”
It seemed to fit him and to correspond so perfectly with him in
every way that one felt as though if he were not inside it he
ought to be.
The second time was at Boulogne this spring. There were
three Germans at the Hôtel de Paris who sat together, went
in and out together, smoked together and did everything as though
they were a unity in trinity and a trinity in unity. We
settled that they must be the Heckmann Quartet, minus Heckmann:
we had not the smallest reason for thinking this but we settled
it at once. The middle one of these was like Beethoven
also. On Easter Sunday, after dinner, when he was a
little—well, it was after dinner and his hair went rather
mad—Jones said to me:
“Do you see that Beethoven has got into the posthumous
quartet stage?” [1885.]
In the autumn of 1884, Butler spent some time at
Promontogno and Soglio in the Val Bregaglia, sketching and
making notes. Among the children of the Italian
families in the albergo was Silvio, a boy of ten or
twelve. He knew a little English and was very fond
of poetry. He could repeat, “How doth
the little buzzy bee.” The poem which pleased
him best, however, was:
Hey diddle diddle,
The Cat and the Fiddle,
The Cow jumped over the Moon.
They had nothing, he said, in Italian
literature so good as this. Silvio used to talk to
Butler while he was sketching.
“And you shall read Longfellow much in
England?”
“No,” I replied, “I don’t think we
read him very much.”
“But how is that? He is a very pretty
poet.”
“Oh yes, but I don’t greatly like poetry
myself.”
“Why don’t you like poetry?”
“You see, poetry resembles metaphysics, one does not
mind one’s own, but one does not like any one
else’s.”
“Oh! And what you call metaphysic?”
This was too much. It was like the lady who attributed
the decline of the Italian opera to the fact that singers would
no longer “podge” their voices.
“And what, pray, is ‘podging’?”
enquired my informant of the lady.
“Why, don’t you understand what
‘podging’ is? Well, I don’t know that I
can exactly tell you, but I am sure Edith and Blanche podge
beautifully.”
However, I said that metaphysics were la filosofia and
this quieted him. He left poetry and turned to prose.
“Then you shall like much the works of Washington
Irving?”
I was grieved to say that I did not; but I dislike Washington
Irving so cordially that I determined to chance another
“No.”
“Then you shall like better Fenimore Cooper?”
I was becoming reckless. I could not go on saying
“No” after “No,” and yet to ask me to be
ever so little enthusiastic about Fenimore Cooper was laying a
burden upon me heavier than I could bear, so I said I did not
like him.
“Oh, I see,” said the boy; “then it is
Uncle Tom’s Cabin that you shall like?”
Here I gave in. More “Noes” I could not say,
so, thinking I might as well be hung for a sheep as for a mutton
chop, I said that I thought Uncle Tom’s Cabin one of
the most wonderful and beautiful books that ever were
written.
Having got at a writer whom I admired, he was satisfied, but
not for long.
“And you think very much of the theories of Darwin in
England, do you not?”
I groaned inwardly and said we did.
“And what are the theories of Darwin?”
Imagine what followed!
After which:
“Why do you not like poetry?—You shall have a very
good university in London?” and so on.
The quarantine men sat on the wall, dangling their legs over
the parapet and singing the same old tune over and over again and
the same old words over and over again. “Fu tradito,
fu tradito da una donna.” To them it was a
holiday.
Two gnomes came along and looked at me. I asked the
first how old it was; it said fourteen. They both looked
about eight. I said that the flies and the fowls ought to
be put into quarantine, and the gnomes grinned and showed their
teeth till the corners of their mouths met at the backs of their
heads.
The skeleton of a bird was nailed up against a barn, and I
said to a man: “Aquila?”
He replied: “Aquila,” and I passed on.
The village boys came round me and sighed while they watched
me sketching. And the women came and exclaimed: “Oh!
che testa, che testa!”
And the bells in the windows of the campanile began, and I
turned and looked up at their beautiful lolling and watched their
fitful tumble-aboutiness. They swung open-mouthed like
elephants with uplifted trunks, and I wished I could have fed
them with buns. They were not like English bells, and yet
they rang more all ’Inglese than bells mostly do in
Italy—they had got it, but they had not got it right.
There used to be two crows, and when one disappeared the other
came to the house where it had not been for a month. While
I was sketching it played with a woman who was weeding; it got on
her back and tried to bite her hat; then it got down and pecked
at the nails in her boots and tried to steal them. It let
her catch it, and then made a little fuss, but it did not fly
away when she let it go, it continued playing with her.
Then it came to exploit me but would not come close up.
Signor Scartazzini says it will play with all the women of the
place but not with men or boys, except with him.
Then there came a monk and passed by me, and I knew I had seen
him before but could not think where till, of a sudden, it
flashed across me that he was Valoroso XXIV, King of Paphlagonia,
no doubt expiating his offences.
And I watched the ants that were busy near my feet, and
listened to them as they talked about me and discussed whether
man has instinct.
“What is he doing here?” they said; “he
wasn’t here yesterday. Certainly they have no
instinct. They may have a low kind of reason, but nothing
approaching to instinct. Some of the London houses show
signs of instinct—Gower Street, for example, does really
seem to suggest instinct; but it is all delusive. It is
curious that these cities of theirs should always exist in places
where there are no ants. They certainly anthropomorphise
too freely. Or is it perhaps that we formicomorphise more
than we should?”
And Silvio came by on his way to church. It was he who
taught all the boys in Soglio to make a noise. Before he
came up there was no sound to be heard in the streets, except the
fountains and the bells. I asked him whether the curate was
good to him.
“Si,” he replied, “è abbastanza
buono.”
I should think Auld Robin Gray was “abbastanza
buono” to Mrs. Gray.
One of the little girls told me that Silvio had so many
centesimi and she had none. I said at once:
“You don’t want any centesimi.”
As soon as these words fell from my lips, I knew I must be
getting old.
And presently the Devil came up to me. He was a nice,
clean old man, but he dropped his h’s, and that was where
he spoiled himself—or perhaps it was just this that threw
me off my guard, for I had always heard that the Prince of
Darkness was a perfect gentleman. He whispered to me that
in the winter the monks of St. Bernard sometimes say matins
overnight.
The blue of the mountains looks bluer through the chestnuts
than through the pines. The river is snowy against the
“Verdi prati e selve amene.” The great fat
tobacco plant agrees with itself if not with us; I never saw any
plant look in better health. The briar knows perfectly well
what it wants to do and that it does not want to be disturbed; it
knows, in fact, all that it cares to know. The question is
how and why it got to care to know just these things and no
others. Two cheeky goats came tumbling down upon me and
demanded salt, and the man came from the saw-mill and, with his
great brown hands, scooped the mud from the dams of the rills
that watered his meadow, for the hour had come when it was his
turn to use the stream.
There were cow-bells, mountain elder-berries and lots of
flowers in the grass. There was the glacier, the roar of
the river and a plaintive little chapel on a green knoll under
the great cliff of ice which cut the sky. There was a fat,
crumby woman making hay. She said:
“Buon giorno.”
And the “i o r” of the “giorno” came
out like oil and honey. I saw she wanted a gossip.
She and her husband tuned their scythes in two-part,
note-against-note counterpoint; but I could hear that it was she
who was the canto fermo and he who was the counterpoint. I
peered down over the edge of the steep slippery slope which all
had to be mown from top to bottom; if hay grew on the dome of St.
Paul’s these dreadful traders would gather it in, and
presently the autumn crocuses would begin to push up their
delicate, naked snouts through the closely shaven surface.
I expressed my wonder.
“Siamo esatti,” said the fat, crumby woman.
For what little things will not people risk their lives?
So Smith and I crossed the Rangitata. So Esau sold his
birthright.
It was noon, and I was so sheer above the floor of the valley
and the sun was so sheer above me that the chestnuts in the
meadow of Bondo squatted upon their own shadows and the gardens
were as though the valley had been paved with bricks of various
colours. The old grass-grown road ran below, nearer the
river, where many a good man had gone up and down on his journey
to that larger road where the reader and the writer shall alike
join him.
I know a man, and one whom people generally call a very clever
one, who, when his eye catches mine, if I meet him at an at home
or an evening party, beams upon me from afar with the expression
of an intellectual rattlesnake on having espied an intellectual
rabbit. Through any crowd that man will come sidling
towards me, ruthless and irresistible as fate; while I,
foreknowing my doom, sidle also him-wards, and flatter myself
that no sign of my inward apprehension has escaped me.
Men are seldom more commonplace than on supreme
occasions. I knew of an old gentleman who insisted on
having the original polka played to him as he lay upon his
death-bed. In the only well-authenticated words I have ever
met with as spoken by a man who knew he was going to be murdered,
there is a commonness which may almost be called
Shakespearean. There had been many murders on or near some
gold-fields in New Zealand about the years 1863 or 1864, I forget
where but I think near the Nelson gold-fields, and at last the
murderers were taken. One was allowed to turn Queen’s
evidence and gave an account of the circumstances of each
murder. One of the victims, it appeared, on being told they
were about to kill him, said:
“If you murder me, I shall be foully
murdered.”
Whereupon they murdered him and he was foully murdered.
It is a mistake to expect people to rise to the occasion unless
the occasion is only a little above their ordinary limit.
People seldom rise to their greater occasions, they almost always
fall to them. It is only supreme men who are supreme at
supreme moments. They differ from the rest of us in this
that, when the moment for rising comes, they rise at once and
instinctively.
I saw one once in the Gulf of the St. Lawrence off the island
of Anticosti. We were in the middle of it, and seemed to be
looking up through a great cone of light millions and millions of
miles into the sky. Then we saw it farther off and the
pillars of fire stalked up and down the face of heaven like one
of Handel’s great basses.
In front of my room at Montreal there was a verandah from
which a rope was stretched across a small yard to a chimney on a
stable roof over the way. Clothes were hung to dry on this
rope. As I lay in bed of a morning I could see the shadows
and reflected lights from these clothes moving on the ceiling as
the clothes were blown about by the wind. The movement of
these shadows and reflected lights was exactly that of the rays
of an Aurora Borealis, minus colour. I can conceive no
resemblance more perfect. They stalked across the ceiling
with the same kind of movement absolutely.
The three occasions when I have seen a really tragic
expression upon a face were as follows:—
(1) When Mrs. Inglis in my room at Montreal heard my
sausages frying, as she thought, too furiously in the kitchen,
she left me hurriedly with a glance, and the folds of her dress
as she swept out of the room were Niobean.
(2) Once at dinner I sat opposite a certain lady who had
a tureen of soup before her and also a plate of the same to which
she had just helped herself. There was meat in the soup and
I suppose she got a bit she did not like; instead of leaving it,
she swiftly, stealthily, picked it up from her plate when she
thought no one was looking and, with an expression which Mrs.
Siddons might have studied for a performance of Clytemnestra,
popped it back into the tureen.
(3) There was an alarm of fire on an emigrant ship in
mid-ocean when I was going to New Zealand and the women rushed
aft with faces as in a Massacre of the Innocents.
On the Monte Generoso a lady who sat next me at the
table-d’hôte was complaining of a man in the
hotel. She said he was a nuisance because he practised on
the violin. I excused him by saying that I supposed some
one had warned him to fly from the wrath to come, meaning that he
had conceptions of an ideal world and was trying to get into
it. (I heard a man say something like this many years ago
and it stuck by me.)
A man told me that at some Swiss hotel he had been speaking
enthusiastically about the beauty of the scenery to a Frenchman
who said to him:
“Aimez-vous donc les beautés de la nature?
Pour moi je les abborre.”
Cavaliere Negri, at Casale-Monferrato, told me not long since
that when he was a child, during the troubles of 1848 and 1849,
the King was lunching with his (Cav. Negri’s) father who
had provided the best possible luncheon in honour of his
guest. The King said:
“I can eat no such luncheon in times like
these—give me some garlic.”
The garlic being brought, he ate it along with a great hunch
of bread, but would touch nothing else.
When I was at Faido in the Val Leventina last summer there was
a lady there who remembered me in New Zealand; she had brought
her children to Switzerland for their holiday; good people, all
of them. They had friends coming to them, a certain canon
and his sister, and there was a talk that the Bishop of
Chichester might possibly come too. In course of time the
canon and his sister came. At first the sister, who was put
to sit next me at dinner, was below zero and her brother opposite
was hardly less freezing; but as dinner wore on they thawed and,
from regarding me as the monster which in the first instance they
clearly did, began to see that I agreed with them in much more
than they had thought possible. By and by they were
reassured, became cordial and proved on acquaintance to be most
kind and good. They soon saw that I liked them, and the
canon let me take him where I chose. I took him to the
place where the Woodsias grow and we found some splendid
specimens. I took him to Mairengo and showed him the double
chancel. Coming back he said I had promised to show him
some Alternifolium. I stopped him and said:
“Here is some,” for there happened to be a bit in
the wall by the side of the path.
This quite finished the conquest, and before long I was given
to understand that the bishop really would come and we were to
take him pretty near the Woodsias and not tell him, and he was to
find them out for himself. I have no doubt that the bishop
had meant coming with the canon, but then the canon had heard
from the New Zealand lady that I was there, and this would not do
at all for the bishop. Anyhow the canon had better exploit
me by going first and seeing how bad I was. So the canon
came, said I was all right and in a couple of days or so the
bishop and his daughters arrived.
The bishop did not speak to me at dinner, but after dinner, in
the salon, he made an advance in the matter of the newspaper and,
I replying, he began a conversation which lasted the best part of
an hour, and during which I trust I behaved discreetly.
Then I bade him “Good-night” and left the room.
Next morning I saw him eating his breakfast and said
“Good-morning” to him. He was quite ready to
talk. We discussed the Woodsia Ilvensis and agreed that it
was a mythical species. It was said in botany books to grow
near Guildford. We dismissed this assertion. But he
remarked that it was extraordinary in what odd places we
sometimes do find plants; he knew a single plant of Asplenium
Trichomanes which had no other within thirty miles of it; it was
growing on a tombstone which had come from a long distance and
from a Trichomanes country. It almost seemed as if the
seeds and germs were always going about in the air and grew
wherever they found a suitable environment. I said it was
the same with our thoughts; the germs of all manner of thoughts
and ideas are always floating about unperceived in our minds and
it was astonishing sometimes in what strange places they found
the soil which enabled them to take root and grow into perceived
thought and action. The bishop looked up from his egg and
said:
“That is a very striking remark,” and then he went
on with his egg as though if I were going to talk like that he
should not play any more.
Thinking I was not likely to do better than this, I retreated
immediately and went away down to Claro where there was a
confirmation and so on to Bellinzona.
In the morning I had asked the waitress how she liked the
bishop.
“Oh! beaucoup, beaucoup,” she exclaimed, “et
je trouve son nez vraiment noble.” [1886.]
I am confident that I have written the following note in one
or other of the earlier of these volumes, but I have searched my
precious indexes in vain to find it. No doubt as soon as I
have retold the story I shall stumble upon it.
One day in the autumn of 1886 I walked up to Piora from
Airolo, returning the same day. At Piora I met a very nice
quiet man whose name I presently discovered, and who, I have
since learned, is a well-known and most liberal employer of
labour somewhere in the north of England. He told me that
he had been induced to visit Piora by a book which had made a
great impression upon him. He could not recollect its
title, but it had made a great impression upon him; nor yet could
he recollect the author’s name, but the book had made a
great impression upon him; he could not remember even what else
there was in the book; the only thing he knew was that it had
made a great impression upon him.
This is a good example of what is called a residuary
impression. Whether or no I told him that the book which
had made such a great impression upon him was called Alps and
Sanctuaries (see Chap. VI), and that it had been written by
the person he was addressing, I cannot tell. It would be
very like me to have blurted it all out and given him to
understand how fortunate he had been in meeting me; this would be
so fatally like me that the chances are ten to one that I did it;
but I have, thank Heaven, no recollection of sin in this respect,
and have rather a strong impression that, for once in my life, I
smiled to myself and said nothing.
After dinner I ordered a coffee; the landlord, who also had
had his dinner, asked me to be good enough to defer it for
another year and I assented. I then asked him which was the
best inn at Segni. He replied that it did not matter, that
when a man had quattrini one albergo was as good as
another. I said, No; that more depended on what kind of
blood was running about inside the albergatore than on how many
quattrini the guest had in his pocket. He smiled and
offered me a pinch of the most delicious snuff. His wife
came and cleared the table, having done which she shed the water
bottle over the floor to keep the dust down. I am sure she
did it all to all the blessed gods that live in heaven, though
she did not say so.
There was one at a country house in Sicily where I was
staying. She had been lent to my host for change of air by
his friend the marchese. She dined at table with us and we
all liked her very much. She was extremely pretty and not
less amiable than pretty. In order to reach the dining-room
we had to go through her bedroom as also through my
host’s. When the monsignore came, she dined with us
just the same, and the old priest evidently did not mind at
all. In Sicily they do not bring the scent of the incense
across the dining-room table. And one would hardly expect
the attempt to be made by people who use the oath “Santo
Diavolo.”
At Siena last spring, prowling round outside the cathedral, we
saw an English ecclesiastic in a stringed, sub-shovel hat.
He had a young lady with him, presumably a daughter or
niece. He eyed us with much the same incurious curiosity as
that with which we eyed him. We passed them and went inside
the duomo. How far less impressive is the interior (indeed
I had almost said also the exterior) than that of San
Domenico! Nothing palls so soon as over-ornamentation.
A few minutes afterwards my Lord and the young lady came in
too. It was Sunday and mass was being celebrated. The
pair passed us and, when they reached the fringe of the kneeling
folk, the bishop knelt down too on the bare floor, kneeling bolt
upright from the knees, a few feet in front of where we
stood. We saw him and I am sure he knew we were looking at
him. The lady seemed to hesitate but, after a minute or so,
she knuckled down by his side and we left them kneeling bolt
upright from the knees on the hard floor.
I always cross myself and genuflect when I go into a Roman
Catholic church, as a mark of respect, but Jones and Gogin say
that any one can see I am not an old hand at it. How
rudimentary is the action of an old priest! I saw one once
at Venice in the dining-room of the Hotel la Luna who crossed
himself by a rapid motion of his fork just before he began to
eat, and Miss Bertha Thomas told me she saw an Italian lady at
Varallo at the table-d’hôte cross herself with her
fan. I do not cross myself before eating nor do I think it
incumbent upon me to kneel down on the hard floor in
church—perhaps because I am not an English bishop. We
were sorry for this one and for his young lady, but it was their
own doing.
We then went into the Libreria to see the frescoes by
Pinturicchio—which we did not like—and spent some
little time in attending to them. On leaving we were told
to sign our names in a book and did so. As we were going
out we met the bishop and his lady coming in; whether they had
been kneeling all the time, or whether they had got up as soon we
were gone and had spent the time in looking round I cannot say,
but, when they had seen the frescoes, they would be told to sign
their names and, when they signed, they would see ours and, I
flatter myself, know who we were.
On returning to our hotel we were able to collect enough
information to settle in our own minds which particular bishop he
was.
A day or two later we went to Poggibonsi, which must have been
an important place once; nothing but the walls remain now, the
city within them having been razed by Charles V. At the
station we took a carriage, and our driver, Ulisse Pogni, was a
delightful person, second baritone at the Poggibonsi Opera and
principal fly-owner of the town. He drove us up to S.
Gimignano and told us that the people still hold the figures in
Benozzo Gozzoli’s frescoes to be portraits of themselves
and say: “That’s me,” and “That’s
so and so.”
Of course we went to see the frescoes, and as we were coming
down the main street, from the Piazza on which the Municipio
stands, who should be mounting the incline but our bishop and his
lady. The moment he saw us, he looked cross, stood still
and began inspecting the tops of the houses on the other side of
the street; so also did the lady. There was nothing of the
smallest interest in these and we neither of us had the smallest
doubt that he was embarrassed at meeting us and was pretending
not to notice us. I have seldom seen any like attempt more
clumsily and fatuously done. Whether he was saying to
himself, “Good Lord! that wretch will be putting my
kneeling down into another Alps and Sanctuaries or Ex
Voto”; or whether it was only that we were a couple of
blackguard atheists who contaminated the air all round us, I
cannot tell; but on venturing to look back a second or two after
we had passed them, the bishop and the lady had got a
considerable distance away.
As we returned our driver took us about 4 kilometres outside
Poggibonsi to San Lucchese, a church of the 12th or 13th century,
greatly decayed, but still very beautiful and containing a few
naïf frescoes. He told us he had sung the Sanctus here
at the festa on the preceding Sunday. In a room adjoining
the church, formerly, we were told, a refectory, there is a very
good fresco representing the “Miraculous Draught of
Fishes” by Gerino da Pistoja (I think, but one forgets
these names at once unless one writes them down then and
there). It is dated—I think (again!)—about
1509, betrays the influence of Perugino but is more lively and
interesting than anything I know by that painter, for I cannot
call him master. It is in good preservation and deserves to
be better, though perhaps not very much better, known than it
is. Our driver pointed out that the baskets in which the
fishes are being collected are portraits of the baskets still in
use in the neighbourhood.
After we had returned to London we found, in the Royal Academy
Exhibition, a portrait of our bishop which, though not good, was
quite good enough to assure us that we had not been mistaken as
to his diocese.
As regards the way in which the Etruscan artists kept to a few
stock subjects, this has been so in all times and countries.
When Christianity convulsed the world and displaced the older
mythology, she did but introduce new subjects of her own, to
which her artists kept as closely as their pagan ancestors had
kept to their heathen gods and goddesses. We now make
believe to have freed ourselves from these trammels, but the
departure is more apparent than real. Our works of art fall
into a few well-marked groups and the pictures of each group,
though differing in detail, present the same general
characters. We have, however, broken much new ground,
whereas until the last three or four hundred years it almost
seems either as if artists had thought subject a detail beneath
their notice, or publics had insisted on being told only what
they knew already.
The principle of living only to see and to hear some new
thing, and the other principle of avoiding everything with which
we are not perfectly familiar are equally old, equally universal,
equally useful. They are the principles of conservation and
accumulation on the one hand, and of adventure, speculation and
progress on the other, each equally indispensable. The
money has been, and will probably always be more persistently in
the hands of the first of these two groups. But, after all,
is not money an art? Nay, is it not the most difficult on
earth and the parent of all? And if life is short and art
long, is not money still longer? And are not works of art,
for the most part, more or less works of money also? In so
far as a work of art is a work of money, it must not complain of
being bound by the laws of money; in so far as it is a work of
art, it has nothing to do with money and, again, cannot
complain.
It is a great help to the spectator to know the subject of a
picture and not to be bothered with having to find out all about
the story. Subjects should be such as either tell their own
story instantly on the face of them, or things with which all
spectators may be supposed familiar. It must not be
forgotten that a work exposed to public view is addressed to a
great many people and should accordingly consider many people
rather than one. I saw an English family not long since
looking at a fine collection of the coins of all nations.
They hardly pretended even to take a languid interest in the
French, German, Dutch and Italian coins, but brightened up at
once on being shown a shilling, a florin and a half-crown.
So children do not want new stories; they look for old ones.
“Mamma dear, will you please tell us the story of
‘The Three Bears’?”
“No, my love, not to-day, I have told it you very often
lately and I am busy.”
“Very well, Mamma dear, then we will tell you the story
of ‘The Three Bears.’”
The Iliad and the Odyssey are only “The
Three Bears” upon a larger scale. Just as the life of
a man is only the fission of two amœbas on a larger
scale. Cui non dictus Hylas puer et Latonia
Delos? That was no argument against telling it again,
but rather for repeating it. So people look out in the
newspapers for what they know rather than for what they do not
know, and the better they know it the more interested they are to
see it in print and, as a general rule, unless they get what they
expect—or think they know already—they are
angry. This tendency of our nature culminates in the
well-known lines repeated for ever and ever:
The battle of the Nile
I was there all the while;
I was there all the while
At the battle of the Nile.
The battle of . . .
And so on ad lib. Even this will please very young
children. As they grow older they want to hear about
nothing but “The Three Bears.” As they mature
still further they want the greater invention and freer play of
fancy manifested by such people as Homer and our west-end
upholsterers, beyond which there is no liberty, but only
eccentricity and extravagance.
So it is with all fashion. Fashions change, but not
radically except after convulsion and, even then, the change is
more apparent than real, the older fashions continually coming
back as new ones.
So it is not only as regards choice of subject but also as
regards treatment of subject within the limits of the work
itself, after the subject is chosen. No matter whether the
utterance of a man’s inner mind is attempted by way of
words, painting, or music, the same principle underlies all these
three arts and, of course, also those arts that are akin to
them. In each case a man should have but one subject easily
recognisable as the main motive, and in each case he must
develop, treat and illustrate this by means of episodes and
details that are neither so alien to the subject as to appear
lugged in by the heels, nor yet so germane to it as to be
identical. The treatment grows out of the subject as the
family from the parents and the race from the family—each
new-born member being the same and yet not the same with those
that have preceded him. So it is with all the arts and all
the sciences—they flourish best by the addition of but
little new at a time in comparison with the old.
And so, lastly, it is with the ars artium itself, that
art of arts and science of sciences, that guild of arts and
crafts which is comprised within each one of us, I mean our
bodies. In the detail they are nourished from day to day by
food which must not be too alien from past food or from the body
itself, nor yet too germane to either; and in the gross, that is
to say, in the history of the development of a race or species,
the evolution is admittedly for the most part exceedingly
gradual, by means of many generations, as it were, of episodes
that are kindred to and yet not identical with the subject.
And when we come to think of it, we find in the evolution of
bodily form (which along with modification involves persistence
of type) the explanation why persistence of type in subjects
chosen for treatment in works of art should be so
universal. It is because we are so averse to great changes
and at the same time so averse to no change at all, that we have
a bodily form, in the main, persistent and yet, at the same time,
capable of modifications. Without a strong aversion to
change its habits and, with its habits, the pabulum of its mind,
there would be no fixity of type in any species and, indeed,
there would be no life at all, as we are accustomed to think of
life, for organs would disappear before they could be developed,
and to try to build life on such a shifting foundation would be
as hopeless as it would be to try and build a material building
on an actual quicksand. Hence the habits, cries, abodes,
food, hopes and fears of each species (and what are these but the
realities of which human arts are as the shadow?) tell the same
old tales in the same old ways from generation to generation, and
it is only because they do so that they appear to us as species
at all.
Returning now to the Etruscan cinerary urns—I have no
doubt that, perhaps three or four thousand years hence, a
collection of the tombstones from some of our suburban cemeteries
will be thought exceedingly interesting, but I confess to having
found the urns in the Museum at Volterra a little monotonous and,
after looking at about three urns, I hurried over the remaining
397 as fast as I could. [1889.]
The walls of the houses [in an Italian village] are built of
brick and the roofs are covered with stone. They call the
stone “vivo.” It is as though they thought
bricks were like veal or mutton and stones like bits out of the
living calf or sheep. [279]
When the water of a place is bad, it is safest to drink none
that has not been filtered through either the berry of a grape,
or else a tub of malt. These are the most reliable filters
yet invented.
Giacomo Bertoli of Varallo-Sesia keeps a watch and clock shop
in the street. He is a cheery little old gentleman, though
I do not see why I should call him old for I doubt his being so
old as I am. He and I have been very good friends for years
and he is always among the first to welcome me when I go to
Varallo.
He is one of the most famous bee-masters in Europe. He
keeps some of his bees during the winter at Camasco not very far
from Varallo, others in other places near and moves them up to
Alagna, at the head of the Val Sesia, towards the end of May that
they may make their honey from the spring flowers—and
excellent honey they make.
About a fortnight ago I happened to meet him bringing down ten
of his hives. He was walking in front and was immediately
followed by two women each with crates on their backs, and each
carrying five hives. They seemed to me to be ordinary deal
boxes, open at the top, but covered over with gauze which would
keep the bees in but not exclude air. I asked him if the
bees minded the journey, and he replied that they were very angry
and had a great deal to say about it; he was sure to be stung
when he let them out. He said it was “un lavoro
improbo,” and cost him a great deal of anxiety.
It should be “The Lost Progression,” for the young
lady was mistaken in supposing she had ever heard any single
chord “like the sound of a great Amen.” Unless
we are to suppose that she had already found the chord of C Major
for the final syllable of the word and was seeking the chord for
the first syllable; and there she is on the walls of a Milanese
restaurant arpeggioing experimental harmonies in a transport of
delight to advertise Somebody and Someone’s pianos and
holding the loud pedal solidly down all the time. Her
family had always been unsympathetic about her music. They
said it was like a loose bundle of fire-wood which you never can
get across the room without dropping sticks; they said she would
have been so much better employed doing anything else.
Fancy being in the room with her while she was strumming about
and hunting after her chord! Fancy being in heaven with her
when she had found it!
I have brought back this year some mountain auriculas and the
seed of some salvia and Fusio tiger-lily, and mean to plant the
auriculas and to sow the seeds in Epping Forest and elsewhere
round about London. I wish people would more generally
bring back the seeds of pleasing foreign plants and introduce
them broadcast, sowing them by our waysides and in our fields, or
in whatever situation is most likely to suit them. It is
true, this would puzzle botanists, but there is no reason why
botanists should not be puzzled. A botanist is a person
whose aim is to uproot, kill and exterminate every plant that is
at all remarkable for rarity or any special virtue, and the rarer
it is the more bitterly he will hunt it down.
Sano di Pietro shows us a heartless practical joke played by
these two very naughty saints, both medical men, who should be
uncanonised immediately. It seems they laid their heads
together and for some reason, best known to themselves, resolved
to cut a leg off a dead negro and put it on to a white man.
In the one compartment they are seen in high glee cutting the
negro’s leg off. In the next they have gone to the
white man who is in bed, obviously asleep, and are substituting
the black leg for his own. Then, no doubt, they will stand
behind the door and see what he does when he wakes. They
must be saints because they have glories on, but it looks as
though a glory is not much more to be relied on than a gig as a
test of respectability. [1889.]
At Pienza, after having seen the Museum with a custode whom I
photoed as being more like death, though in excellent health and
spirits, than any one I ever saw, I was taken to the leading
college for young ladies, the Conservatorio di S. Carlo, under
the direction of Signora (or Signorina, I do not know which)
Cesira Carletti, to see the wonderful Viale of the twelfth or
thirteenth century given to Pienza by Pope Æneas Sylvius
Piccolomini (Pius II) and stolen a few years since, but
recovered. Signora Carletti was copying parts of it in
needlework, nor can I think that the original was ever better
than the parts which she had already done. The work would
take weeks or even months to examine with any fullness, and
volumes to describe. It is as prodigal of labour, design
and colour as nature herself is. In fact it is one of those
things that nature has a right to do but not art. It
fatigues one to look at it or think upon it and, bathos though it
be to say so, it won the first prize at the Exhibitions of
Ecclesiastical Art Work held a few years ago at Rome and at
Siena. It has taken Signora Carletti months to do even the
little she has done, but that little must be seen to be believed,
for no words can do justice to it.
Having seen the Viale, I was shown round the whole
establishment, and can imagine nothing better ordered. I
was taken over the dormitories—very nice and
comfortable—and, finally, not without being much abashed,
into the room where the young ladies were engaged upon
needlework. It reminded me of nothing so much as of the
Education of the Virgin Chapel at Oropa. [282] I was taken to each young lady
and did my best to acquit myself properly in praising her
beautiful work but, beautiful as the work of one and all was, it
could not compare with that of Signora Carletti. I asked
her if she could not get some of the young ladies to help her in
the less important parts of her work, but she said she preferred
doing it all herself. They all looked well and happy and as
though they were well cared for, as I am sure they are.
Then Signora Carletti took me to the top of the house to show
me the meteorological room of which she is superintendent, and
which is in connection with the main meteorological observatory
at Rome. Again I found everything in admirable order, and
left the house not a little pleased and impressed with everything
I had seen. [1889.]
The following extract is taken from a memorandum Butler
made of a visit he paid to Greece and the Troad in the spring
of 1895. In the Iliad (xxii. 145)
Homer mentions hot and cold springs where the Trojan women
used to wash their clothes. There are no such
springs near Hissarlik, where they ought to be, but
the American Consul at the Dardanelles told Butler there was
something of the kind on Mount Ida, at the sources of the
Scamander, and he determined to see them after visiting
Hissarlik. He was provided with an interpreter,
Yakoub, an attendant, Ahmed, an escort of
one soldier and a horse. He went first to the
Consul’s farm at Thymbra, about five miles from
Hissarlik, where he spent the night and found it
“all very like a first-class New Zealand
sheep-station.” The next day he went to
Hissarlik and saw no reason for disagreeing with the received
opinion that it is the site of Troy. He then
proceeded to Bunarbashi and so to Bairemitch, passing on
the way a saw-mill where there was a Government official with
twenty soldiers under him. This official was much
interested in the traveller and directed his men to take carpets
and a dish of trout, caught that morning in the
Scamander, and carry them up to the hot and cold springs
while he himself accompanied Butler. So they set off
and the official, Ismail, showed him the way and
pointed out the springs, and there is a long note about
the hot and cold water.
And now let me return to Ismail Gusbashi, the excellent
Turkish official who, by the way, was with me during all my
examination of the springs, and whose assurances of their twofold
temperature I should have found it impossible to doubt, even
though I had not caught one warmer cupful myself. His men,
while we were at the springs, had spread a large Turkey carpet on
the flower-bespangled grass under the trees, and there were three
smaller rugs at three of the corners. On these Ismail and
Yakoub and I took our places. The other two were
cross-legged, but I reclining anyhow. The sun shimmered
through the spring foliage. I saw two hoopoes and many
beautiful birds whose names I knew not. Through the trees I
could see the snow-fields of Ida far above me, but it was
hopeless to think of reaching them. The soldiers and Ahmed
cooked the trout and the eggs all together; then we had boiled
eggs, bread and cheese and, of course, more lamb’s liver
done on skewers like cats’ meat. I ate with my
pocket-knife, the others using their fingers in true Homeric
fashion.
When we had put from us “the desire of meat and
drink,” Ismail began to talk to me. He said he had
now for the first time in his life found himself in familiar
conversation with Wisdom from the West (that was me), and that,
as he greatly doubted whether such another opportunity would be
ever vouchsafed to him, he should wish to consult me upon a
matter which had greatly exercised him. He was now fifty
years old and had never married. Sometimes he thought he
had done a wise thing, and sometimes it seemed to him that he had
been very foolish. Would I kindly tell him which it was and
advise him as to the future? I said he was addressing one
who was in much the same condition as himself, only that I was
some ten years older. We had a saying in England that if a
man marries he will regret it, and that if he does not marry he
will regret it.
“Ah!” said Ismail, who was leaning towards me and
trying to catch every word I spoke, though he could not
understand a syllable till Yakoub interpreted my Italian into
Turkish. “Ah!” he said, “that is a true
word.”
In my younger days, I said (may Heaven forgive me!), I had
been passionately in love with a most beautiful young lady,
but—and here my voice faltered, and I looked very sad,
waiting for Yakoub to interpret what I had said—but it had
been the will of Allah that she should marry another gentleman,
and this had broken my heart for many years. After a time,
however, I concluded that these things were all settled for us by
a higher Power.
“Ah! that is a true word.”
“And so, my dear sir, in your case I should reflect that
if Allah” (and I raised my hand to Heaven) “had
desired your being married, he would have signified his will to
you in some way that you could hardly mistake. As he does
not appear to have done so, I should recommend you to remain
single until you receive some distinct intimation that you are to
marry.”
“Ah! that is a true word.”
“Besides,” I continued, “suppose you marry a
woman with whom you think you are in love and then find out,
after you have been married to her for three months, that you do
not like her. This would be a very painful
situation.”
“Ah, yes, indeed! that is a true word.”
“And if you had children who were good and dutiful, it
would be delightful; but suppose they turned out disobedient and
ungrateful—and I have known many such cases—could
anything be more distressing to a parent in his declining
years?”
“Ah! that is a true word that you have
spoken.”
“We have a great Imaum,” I continued, “in
England; he is called the Archbishop of Canterbury and gives
answers to people who are in any kind of doubt or
difficulty. I knew one gentleman who asked his advice upon
the very question that you have done me the honour of propounding
to myself.”
“Ah! and what was his answer?”
“He told him,” said I, “that it was cheaper
to buy the milk than to keep a cow.”
“Ah! ah! that is a most true word.”
Here I closed the conversation, and we began packing up to
make a start. When we were about to mount, I said to him,
hat in hand:
“Sir, it occurs to me with great sadness that, though
you will, no doubt, often revisit this lovely spot, yet it is
most certain that I shall never do so. Promise me that when
you come here you will sometimes think of the stupid old
Englishman who has had the pleasure of lunching with you to-day,
and I promise that I will often think of you when I am at home
again in London.”
He was much touched, and we started. After we had gone
about a mile, I suddenly missed my knife. I knew I should
want it badly many a time before we got to the Dardanelles, and I
knew perfectly well where I should find it: so I stopped the
cavalcade and said I must ride back for it. I did so, found
it immediately and returned. Then I said to Ismail:
“Sir, I understand now why I was led to leave my knife
behind me. I had said it was certain I should never see
that enchanting spot again, but I spoke presumptuously,
forgetting that if Allah” (and I raised my hand to Heaven)
“willed it I should assuredly do so. I am corrected,
and with great leniency.”
Ismail was much affected. The good fellow immediately
took off his watch-chain (happily of brass and of no intrinsic
value) and gave it me, assuring me that it was given him by a
very dear friend, that he had worn it for many years, and valued
it greatly—would I keep it as a memorial of himself?
Fortunately I had with me a little silver match-box which Alfred
had given me and which had my name engraved on it. I gave
it to him, but had some difficulty in making him accept it.
Then we rode on till we came to the saw-mills. I ordered
two lambs for the ten soldiers who had accompanied us, having
understood from Yakoub that this would be an acceptable
present. And so I parted from this most kind and friendly
gentleman with every warm expression of cordiality on both
sides.
I sent him his photograph which I had taken, and I sent his
soldiers their groups also—one for each man—and in
due course I received the following letter of thanks.
Alas! I have never written in answer. I knew not how
to do it. I knew, however, that I could not keep up a
correspondence, even though I wrote once. But few
unanswered letters more often rise up and smite me. How the
Post Office people ever read “Bueter, Ciforzin St.”
into “Butler, Clifford’s Inn” I cannot
tell. What splendid emendators of a corrupt text they ought
to make! But I could almost wish that they had failed, for
it has pained me not a little that I have not replied.
Mr. Samuel Bueter,
No. 15 Ciforzin
St. London, England.
Dardanelles,
August 4/95.
Mr. Samuel. England.
My dear Friend,
Many thanks for the phothograph you have send me. It was
very kind of you to think of me to send me this token of your
remembrance. I certainly, appreciate it, and shall think of
you whenever I look at it. Ah My Dear Brother, it is
impossible for me to forget you. under favorable
circumstance I confess I must prefer you. I have a grate
desire to have the beautifull chance to meet you. Ah then
with the tears of gladness to be the result of the great love of
our friendness A my Sir what pen can describe the meeting that
shall be come with your second visit if it please God.
It is my pray to Our Lord God to protect you and to keep you
glad and happy for ever.
Though we are far from each other yet we can speak with
letters.
Thank God to have your love of friendness with me and mine
with your noble person.
Hopeing to hear from you,
Yours truly,
Ismayel,
from
Byramich hizar memuerue iuse bashi.