The New Guide to Knitting & Crochet

DEDICATED BY PERMISSION,
TO THE
COUNTESS OF WICKLOW,
Whose kindness to the Authoress, will ever be remembered with grateful feelings of respect,

By her most obedient servant,
MARIE JANE COOPER

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I venture to publish The New Guide to Knitting and Crochet, believing it will prove both instructive and amusing to those Ladies, whose taste leads them to such pursuits. The Authoress being practically acquainted with these Arts, she warrants them correct, and trusts they will meet with a favourable reception by the Public, and be found a useful appendage to every work-table.

Hastings, January 1847.

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CROCHET

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Nine shades of wool used double, or double Berlin, either in shades of sable or chinchilli, look best. Cast on sixty stitches, knit three plain rows with the darkest shade; in the fourth row seam two stitches together; pass the wool round, seam two together; pass the wool round, seam two together, and so on till the end of the row. Join on the next shade, and knit three plain rows. In the fourth row, seam two together; pass the wool round, and seam two together the same as before; continue in this manner knitting three plain rows and an open row of each shade, until the ninth of white. Only knit two plain rows; this will reverse the shades: join the second lightest shade, and knit one plain row and one open row; two plain rows; continue knitting one plain row, one open row, and two plain rows of each shade; it will then correspond in appearance with the other side; then sew the two edges together, and let the join come in the centre of the wrong side, and it will look as though knit double.

Cast on each needle forty-five stitches, fifteen for each pattern. First round—pass the thread in front, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, knit one, and bring the slipped stitch over the last knit, knit six, bring the thread forward; knit one; continue this till the round is completed. Second round—thread before, purl two, knit one, taking the back part of the loop; purl two, slip one, and cast the slipped over; knit the remaining stitches plain; in the first row you have increased one stitch in every fifteen; the second brings them to the original number; knit these rounds alternately, making the holes (which occur in every alternate row) one stitch sooner each time, i. e., knitting five, then four, then three, then two, then one, instead of six stitches, and plain to the purled stitches, then commence as before.

Begin with about twenty stitches on one needle, and with the other knit two or three plain rows; next row knit six plain, purl eight, knit the remainder plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; next row, when the right side is towards you, after knitting the first six stitches plain, take a third needle, and slip off four stitches, and keep them behind till you have knit the next four; then knit them; this forms the twist; then knit the remaining six plain; knit the next row plain, and so on for twelve rows; then repeat the twist.

Cast on nine stitches, slip one, knit one, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for three times, thread forward, knit one, purl the next row; repeat these two rows alternately, increasing one plain stitch each time in the fancy row, until you have eighteen stitches; to decrease the point, slip the first, knit two together, bring the thread forward, and knit two together for four times, until it is reduced to nine stitches; every alternate row is purled.

Needles No. 20, and No. 34, Boar’s-head cotton. Cast on thirty-four stitches, knit four plain rows. Fifth row—knit two, slip one, knit one, pass the slipt one over the knitted one, bring the thread forward, knit one, thread forward, knit one, thread forward, purl one, and so on to the end of the row. Commence the next row by slipping one, and continue as before, till you come to the end of the row, where you will have two plain stitches left, which are to be knit; continue with these rows alternately, until the cuff is long enough for the wrist, then cast off the stitches, and edge it with narrow Valenciennes lace, or with the Vandyke edging.

Cast on fifty stitches coloured wool, knit eight rows, knitting and purling alternate rows, and twisting each stitch; five rows of coloured, and four of white wool, knit loosely on small ivory pins, for the edge.

Cast on seventy-two stitches in the Brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward; slip one stitch off underneath, and knit two together, coloured wool, and knit one row, besides the casting-on row, white wool, knit four times from end to end; and then leave six stitches each time, till you have formed one gore; twice and back with coloured wool; and then another white gore; fourteen white gores, and finish with one coloured row; and then cast off. Border for the lower end, with an open scollop: run one string round the row of holes, and another string in a few stitches lower to form the waist; the Brioches are done in the same manner; but twelve gores, and each different colours; you cast on sixty stitches instead of seventy-two: six oz. white, and two coloured four-thread fleecy, or double Berlin wool, is enough for cape and border.

Cast on ninety-six stitches, pins No. 19; thread a row of beads; knit three plain rows; purl the close scollop; and every purl stitch knit a bead, twelve rows of beads deep at each end; and ten rows of beads deep in the middle; three plain rounds; cast off.

No. 22 pins, and 60, Boar’s-head cotton. Cast on three stitches on each of three needles. First row—plain. Second row—make one, knit one, to the end of the row. Third—plain. Fourth—make one, knit two, to the end. Fifth—plain. Sixth—make one, knit three. Seventh—plain. Eighth—make one, knit four. Ninth—plain. Tenth—make one, knit five. Eleventh—plain. Twelfth—make one, knit six. Thirteenth—plain. Fourteenth—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit four. Fifteenth—plain. Sixteenth—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit three. Seventeenth—plain. Eighteenth—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit two. Nineteenth—plain. Twentieth—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; knit one. Twenty-first—plain. Twenty-second—make one, knit one, make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over; make one, slip one, knit one, turn over. Twenty-third—plain.

Twenty-fourth row—purl; catch up a stitch at each point of the star. Twenty-fifth—purl. Twenty-sixth—knit two stitches together, all round. Twenty-seventh—throw the thread over the needle, before every stitch. Twenty-eighth—plain. Twenty-ninth—purl; now begin at row twenty-five, and knit the border over again twice.

A round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds, bring the cotton forward, take two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, for five rounds; four plain rounds; a round of eyelet holes; four plain rounds; bring the cotton forward, knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three-knit two together, knit five; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, bring cotton forward, knit one stitch.

A row of eyelet holes, done by bringing the cotton forward, and knitting two together; afterwards five plain rows; knit six, pass the seam stitch over, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together, four plain; knit four; pass the seam stitch over, bring cotton forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit one; knit three; pass the seamed stitch over, bring cotton forward, knit two together, knit three; bring cotton forward, knit two together, take one off; knit two together, and draw over.

Nineteen stitches for each pattern on three pins; bring the thread forward, and knit one, three times; take two together, three times; knit one (centre stitch), decrease three times more, increase three times; knit three plain rounds.

Cast on twelve stitches. First row—knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make one, take two together, three times over. Second—knit two, and purl one, three times; knit three, make one, take two, knit one. Third—knit three, knit three, make one, take two together, knit ten. Fourth—cast off three, knit eight, make one, take two, knit one.

Cast on eight stitches. First row—knit three, make one, take two together, knit one, make two, knit two. Second row—knit three, purl one, knit three, make one, take two together, knit one. Third row—knit three, make one, take two, knit five. Fourth row—cast off two, knit four, make one, take two, knit one; commence again.

This is for one pattern only. Cast on eight stitches. First row—make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, take two together, knit two. Second row—plain. Third row—make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish, knit one. Fourth row—plain. Fifth row—make one, knit five, make one, diminish. Sixth row—plain; diminish by taking two stitches off together, knitting one, and drawing two over the knitted one.

Cast on forty-five stitches, every row alike; slip a stitch at the beginning, knit one, purl one, repeat to the end a piece about twenty inches in length, enough for a moderate sized muff, lined with Gros-de-Naples, stuffed with wool, and enough horse hair to keep it in shape: shades of wool to imitate sable, are the best colours.

No. 14 pins, and six-thread embroidery fleecy. Cast on forty-two stitches loosely, and knit and purl three stitches alternately, for twelve turns; knit ten turns plain; knit thirty-five turns plain, increasing one stitch on each turn; knit twenty turns plain, increasing one stitch every other turn; repeat the twelve turns, as at the beginning.

Cast on seventy-four stitches white wool, purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row coloured, bring the wool forward, and knit two as one; purl one row, knit one row white, purl one row, knit one row white; this forms the border. First division—coloured; purl one row, knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row, knit a fancy row, by taking two stitches together, keeping the wool before the pin. Second division—white; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end, knit one row, decreasing two stitches at each end; knit one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one fancy row as before. Third division—coloured; purl one row, decreasing one stitch at each end; knit one row without decreasing; knit a fancy row, as before. Fourth division, fifth, sixth, seventh—the same as the third, to be repeated alternately with white and coloured wool. Eighth division—white. Ninth—coloured: in these two last divisions, only two stitches are to be decreased in each, and this is to be done in the row, after the one at each end.

N.B. There should be forty stitches left on the pin in the last row; if the pins are small, begin with eighty stitches, and then there should be forty-six left, instead of forty; pick up thirty stitches on each side, and make the borders at the sides and back, like the first: make up the cap, by turning in the border to the fancy row, and hem it all round: it is to be tied behind, and under the chin, with ribbon, or plaitted wool, with tassels of the same.

Shetland wool, and No. 4 pins; about one hundred and sixty stitches; cast on any number of stitches that will divide by six. First row—bring the wool forward, knit one, wool in front, knit one, slip one, knit two as one; bring the slipt stitch over, then knit one. Second row—purl knitting. Third row—wool forward, knit three; wool forward, slip one, knit two as one, and cast over. Fourth row—purl knitting. Fifth row—knit one, slip one, knit two as one, and bring the slipt stitch over, and then knit one, make one, knit one, wool forward. Sixth row—purl knitting. Seventh row—slip one, knit two as one, and cast over, make one, knit three, make one. Eighth row—purl knitting; there are to be two plain stitches at the beginning and end of each row, to form an edge; take up the stitches on each ride, and knit the border in the feather pattern, increasing one stitch at each end of the rows, to form the corner.

Cast on four stitches in blue wool. First row—wool before the pin, knit one, wool before, slip one, knit two not together; pass the slipt stitch over them; repeat this to the end. Second row—purl knitting in claret. Third row—game as the first, in blue. Fourth row—same as the second, in claret; repeat these rows until there are one hundred and eighty stitches on the pin: cast off and finish with a fringe; as the increasing adds an irregular stitch, some rows will have one, and others two knitted stitches at the commencement.

Commence with the pattern of the border by casting on one hundred stitches for the width of the scarf; No. 4 pins and Shetland wool are required. First row—knit two together four times, bring the wool forward, and knit one eight times, knit two as one four times, purl one, repeat to the end of the row. Second row—purled. Third row—plain. Fourth row—purled; repeat from the first row, until the pattern is about fourteen inches deep. Commence the centre as follows (this is done in white wool—the borders in shades). First row—plain knitting before beginning the pattern. First row of the pattern, wool before, slip one, knit one, pass the slip stitch over, knit one, purl one; repeat to the end of the row. Second and following rows—repeat, every row being alike; both ends of the scarf are to be made the same, by reversing the knitting of the border; they may be finished with a red knitted or netted fringe of the same wool doubled twice.

Cast on any number of stitches that will divide by eight. First row—make a stitch, knit one, make one, knit two, slip two as one, knit one, and draw the slipt ones over it; purl back. Third row—make one, knit three, make one, knit one; diminish; knit one, purl back. Fifth row—make one, knit five; diminish; purl back. Seventh row—diminish, knit two, make one, knit one, make one, purl back. Ninth row—knit one, diminish, knit one, make one, knit three, make one, purl back. Eleventh row—make one, knit five, make one, purl back.

Cast on seven stitches, slip the first, bring the cotton forward, and knit two together twice, then put the needle into the last stitch, without drawing it out, until you have wound the cotton round two fingers three times, the whole of which must be taken together as one stitch; knit the last stitches back row plain knitting.

Thread half a bunch of beads on a skein of coarse netting silk, and cast on eighty-eight stitches. First and second row plain knitting without beads. Third row—slip one, knit one with a bead, knit one to the end of the row; repeat from first row eighty-four times; observe, at the commencement of every row, to make a slipt stitch; join up the two sides, leaving an opening at the top, and finished with two bars and a gold or steel chain, a fringe of the garnet beads, with gold points; it should have a stiff lining. No. 16 pins, eight skeins of silk, and four bunches of beads, including those required for the fringe, will be wanted.

No. 18 COTTON, No. 20 PINS.

Eight stripes with one hundred and thirteen stitches for each, with a border of fifty stitches; a counterpane without a border will require more stripes.

Cast on one hundred and eighty stitches, pins No. 12; knit the length on the pins; pattern stitch is cast over twice, and take two as one; knit one; do this for five rows, knitting back plain each time; then reverse the pattern; then cast over twice; knit one and take two five times.

Cast on fifteen stitches, slip one, knit one, turn over four times; knit two as one; turn over; knit two as one; repeat; turn over; knit two as one four times more; knit one. Second row—slip one, knit twelve, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit two. Third row—plain knitting. Fourth row—plain. Fifth row—slip one, knit one, turn over five times, knit two as one, turn over, knit two as one, repeat, turn over, knit two as one five times more, knit one. Sixth row—slip one, knit fifteen, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three. Seventh row—plain. Eighth row—plain. Ninth row—cast off seven, and begin at the first row to knit one, turn over four times, and commence again.

To be sewn down at one end; cast on sixty loops, knit twenty-two rows of white, then two rows of each colour, three shades are required, and white, four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades; four rows of white, two rows of each colour, three shades, four of white, six of white, ribbed two, and knit two, two coloured of each shade ribbed; the same ten of white ribbed ditto, two of coloured, six of white, and cast off.

This mat is made to imitate fur, with ermine in the centre. To make this mat a yard long and three quarters wide, you require one pound of fleecy; that is, a quarter of a pound of each of four shades for the border, half a pound of white for the middle, and one pound of common for the back; also two skeins of black for the tails; it must all be in six-thread fleecy, except the common for the back, which requires twelve-thread. No. 6 pin, by the eagle gauge, is required. Cast on seventy-two stitches with the common white, knit one plain row, then take a skein of the darkest or lightest, according to fancy, cut the skein into half, and divide each half into four, so that the pieces may be about half a quarter in length; slip the first stitch; then take two of the pieces of wool, put them on the left hand pin, twisting it so that one may be behind and the other in front; knit the next stitch, and the two pieces of wool altogether; bring the ends in front and knit another stitch, one plain row between each, and three rows of each four shades; cut previous to commencing the second shade put in two pieces of the darkest at each end; this for three rows: the third shade, two pieces of each of the previous shades, and so on, until you have completed the border, by knitting in the four shades; then put in two pieces of each colour, and commence the white; you will have forty-eight stitches for the white; knit twelve rows, that is to say, six rows putting the pieces in, and every other one being plain, makes the twelve rows; then knit in six pieces, take two of the black, and then twelve more white, one piece of black and twelve more white, one more of black; if the mat is larger or smaller, the centre stitches have only to be equally divided by spots of black: the next row you must put in two black over the one in the previous row, and in the third row one of black over each two; then six more rows of white, that is twelve with the plain one, and then knit in twelve pieces before you commence the black; repeat this as above-mentioned; you will find that this time you will have only space for two black spots; continue in this way till it is finished: it is then combed out until it resembles fur; you then twist the four pieces of black together to resemble the tail; a little gum is then used in twisting this. After having been well combed, they are made up on a stiff back. They may also be made with an ermine outside, and a coloured centre, but they are not so pretty.

Cast on fifty-six stitches round the wrist; increase till you have seventy-four by the thumb; take off twenty-three stitches for the thumb; these ought to be twenty-one rows in depth, sixteen from the bottom, and five above the thumb.

Cast on three stitches, slip a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the previous one over.

Cast on with No. 18 pins, and a middling-sized silk, of which you require four skeins; make a stitch, take one off, knit one, and slip the previous one over this.

Cast on one hundred and forty five stitches with cruels, of which you require six skeins for one bag; two yards of ribbon, and two and a half of another colour, to bind the ring; six different shades, and fourteen rows of each colour in the plain stitch of knitting; the centre double the number of rows.

Cast on thirty-six stitches, scarlet German wool; two rows of red; sixteen rows of white; narrow, by taking two together, on the seventeenth and twenty-first rows; knit thirteen more rows, then divide the stitches into three, viz.:—ten, twelve, and ten: knit twenty rows on the middle needle, which has the twelve stitches, and bind, or cast them off; take up the front, as you would a stocking heel, and make twelve stitches beyond; knit two rows narrowing at the toe, every other row; this is to be repeated six times, and then at the heel, still narrowing the same in front, till you have only sixteen stitches which bind off, take up the red stitches in front, catching one white one each time, till the other side is like the first; you may introduce open stitches on the instep, and round the leg.

Cast on thirty-six loops on the two first pins, and forty-eight on the other; knit two plain rounds one purl, three plain, six plain, with the thread brought forward, two plain, one purl, one plain, fifteen plain, one plain, one purl, one purl narrowing one, eleven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over, one plain, one purl, one plain, narrow once, seven plain, slip one, knit one, pass it over.

Cast on one hundred and three stitches for the first six rounds; knit two, and purl two, then one row, every stitch turned; twenty-four purl, taking in one on each side the seam, eight purl, take in again, eight purl, and take in; then twelve purl, and increase; which must be done by making a stitch on each side the seam; three purl, and increase again, three purl, and increase again, fourteen purl, take in, three purl, take in; do this until you have taken in sixteen times; twenty purl; set the heel by dividing the stitches, when there will be, if correct, thirty-five for the heel, and thirty-six for the instep; knit nineteen, purl the twentieth, purl under two stitches beyond the seam, on the wrong side, and take two together; this do on each side, till you have taken up all, to each end, when there will remain seven stitches on your pin, take up the stitches, and in the third row, make a stitch; in every third stitch in the next round, take two stitches together, where the instep and heel join, do this every other round, till you have reduced the heel stitches to the same number you have on your instep pin; forty-four rounds plain, take in on each side the heel and instep, leaving two stitches between; knit two rounds, take in the same again, this do six times, then take in every other round five times, two rounds every time, when you will have twenty-three or twenty-four stitches remaining, which cast off.

Cast on eight stitches; slip the first, make one, knit two together, put in a piece of cotton or wool on the left hand needle, knit one stitch, bring the ends in front, and knit another, put them back, and knit the remainder, the next row plain, except the stitch you put the piece in, take three all together.

Cast on fifty-six stitches, with black wool; knit ten rows coloured, ten black, ten coloured, ten black; increase sixteen ribs on each side; after the increasing is finished, knit three rows ribbed, with coloured wool; thirty-seven rows of black; these ought to be done in three-thread fleecy, and fine pins.

Cast on one hundred and forty stitches; knit six rows plain, knitting four on each pin plain, and purl, twelve rows of double knitting, twenty-four rows narrowing at the end, in double knitting, eight rows plain knitting, and cast off.

Cast on one hundred and five stitches, ribbing five, and knitting five; knit six rows, and begin double, knitting four at each end plain, of which knit thirty-two rows, and then narrow off at each end six times, knit six rows plain, and cast off; double this in the middle, gather up about three nails, and stitch a string in front beyond the ribbed purl.

For this you require six ounces of eight-thread fleecy, and two pair of pins, No. 1 and No. 10, by the Eagle gauge. Cast on sixty stitches on the fine pins, and knit six rows, knitting two, and purling two stitches; then take the larger sized one, and knit thirty rows, putting the wool twice round the pin; then another piece but only twenty-six rows, and the third only eighteen rows. Commence always in this manner, with the fine pins, join them altogether at the part which is ribbed, and put it on a string.

Cast on one hundred stitches on No. 10 pins, with No. 4 cotton, and knit one plain row (pattern). First row—purled. Second row—cotton forward, and take two together. Third row—purled. Fourth row—plain, with No. 2 pins, cotton twice over the pins; repeat these four rows until the square is complete; sew every six threads of the large row tightly together in the centre, with scarlet German wool, fastening off each six securely and separately; then knit any fringe you may fancy, and join it on.

Plain double knitting, with six-thread fleecy, in pieces of six inches square, each of the pieces being about twenty-four stitches each way; when finished, they are to be sewn together with a tuft of black wool at the corner of each square. The tufts may be made in the following manner:—take a groved wooden mesh, an inch in width, wind round it four-thread black fleecy about twelve times; slip a coarse thread in the grove, and tie the wool quite tight, leaving an end to it that may be drawn through and attached to the quilt; cut the loops of wool through on the opposite side of the mesh, then comb and shear it neatly, for a quilt two yards and a half square, two hundred and twenty-five pieces will be required: it will take two hundred and fifty-six tufts.

For this you require five-thread super fleecy, and two sized pins, No. 3 and No. 11; cast on fifty stitches on No. 3, and knit seventeen plain rows. Eighteenth row—double the piece of knitting, and knit the casting on row in with this one. Nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first rows—are plain, with No. 11 pins. Twenty-second row—knit one, bring the wool forward, and take two together to the end. Twenty-third, twenty-fourth, and twenty-fifth rows—plain now; No. 3 pins, and knit eighteen rows to match the first fold; sew this side down to match the other; run a ribbon through the holes for strings.

Cast on twenty-five stitches, which will make seventy-five ribs, in the Brioche stitch, which is done by bringing the wool forward, slipping a stitch the purl way, and knit two together; bring the wool forward, knit twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of white; then commence the scarlet, by leaving eighteen stitches on each side, knit twenty-four rows, or twelve turns of scarlet; then begin to take in, which is done by knitting the first thirty on each side, without decreasing; then bring the wool forward, slip one stitch, and knit five together; repeat this till within thirty on the other side, which, knit without decreasing, until you have only forty ribs, or one hundred and twenty stitches; knit forty-eight rows, or twenty-four turns, in this manner, still leaving the white on each side; put thirty stitches on another needle for the front, knit those backwards and forwards for thirty-six rows, or eighteen turns; then knit all the stitches but one rib, turn back, and finish the row, and so on, leaving one rib more each time, till it is the proper length for the shoulder. Cast off, but be particular that the slanting side is not in front; finish the other side in the same way, then take up the stitches for the back; knit thirty-six rows, to correspond with the fronts for the arm-hole; then knit backwards and forwards, leaving one rib each way, until it is the same length as the slanting part in front, which are to be joined together; cast off; now take up the white stitches on each side, and knit till it is long enough to go up the sides; for the sleeves; cast on seventy-two stitches, knit thirty rows, then twelve more, leaving one rib on the one side to form the wide part; for the collar; cast on seventy-six stitches, and knit twelve rows, leaving one rib on each side; then sixteen rows of white; cast off; cast on eighteen stitches for the cuff, and knit till it is long enough to go round the bottom of the sleeve; twist a cord of the same coloured wool, and put in the waist behind, with a tassel at the ends; the same under the collar. These may be done in four-thread fleecy, but they look much better in double Berlin wool, No. 9 pins, by the Eagle gauge. For a lady’s, you must cast on stitches in proportion, and larger pins.

Cast on nine stitches; knit one row; second row, begin by knitting two plain stitches; pass the cotton twice round the pin, and take off two stitches; then put on the loop. Having cut the cotton into lengths you may require for the fringe, and knit one stitch, pass the loop forward, and knit another; then pass it back, and knit two stitches; bring it forward again, and knit one more; in the next row, knit four stitches, and take off the loop and one of the stitches, leaving five to knit off plain.

No. 30, Boar’s-head cotton, No. 24 needles, by the Eagle knitting gauge. Set on seventy-eight stitches, twenty-six on each needle, six stitches in each pattern. First round—bring the thread forward, knit three plain; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop. Second round—plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. Third round—bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop, knit three. Fourth round—plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. Fifth round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one, take two together. Sixth round—plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. Seventh round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. Eighth round—plain; then knit one stitch of the next row. Ninth round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. Tenth round—plain, then knit one stitch of the next row. Eleventh round—bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together. Twelfth round—plain; continue this till it is long enough, then cast it off very loosely.

Needles No. 24, Boar’s-head cotton No. 30. First row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting, knit the two next together, then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the thread forward, knit three, bring the thread forward, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. Second row—slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. Third row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together; bring the thread forward, take two together; knit one, take two together; bring the thread forward, knit three; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. Fourth row—slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. Fifth row—slip one, knit two; thread forward, take two together, knit one; bring the thread forward, slip one off without knitting; knit two together; then lift the slipped one over the taken-in loop; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. Sixth row—slip one, knit two; purl one, knit two; purl all but four, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one. Seventh row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, take two together; take two together, bring the thread forward, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit seven; bring the thread forward twice, take two together; bring the thread forward twice, take two together, knit one. Eighth row—cast off eight, purl eleven, knit one; bring the thread forward, take two together, knit one: you must purl the half stitches. Begin again at the first row.

This body is part of knitting, which is let into cambric. No. 24, Boar’s-head cotton, Needles No. 17, Eagle knitting gauge. The front is made in the following manner:—set on seven stitches, knit two plain rows; then begin the pattern row; make one stitch, knit a stitch, bring the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the other two; knit the second row plain; the third row the same as the first; these two rows form the pattern. You must only make a stitch, and knit one, at the commencement of every pattern-row, this is to increase the front; the pattern is continued throughout; the row is, bring the cotton forward, take off one without knitting, knit two, bring the unknitted one over the two. When you have one or two stitches at the end of the row, they must be knitted plain; continue these two rows till you have done enough for the front of a baby’s body, then cast off very loosely.

The sleeves are knitted in the same way, only begin with nine stitches; then knit two plain rows; cast off when proper size.

Cast on twenty-one stitches; pins and cotton as before. First row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit one; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit five; bring the thread forward; knit two together, knit one. Second row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward; knit two together; knit the remaining stitches plain all but three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Third row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two, knit two together; bring the thread forward; knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Fourth row—the same as the second. Fifth row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Sixth row—the same as the second. Seventh row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two together; bring the thread forward; knit seven; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Eighth row—the same as the second. Ninth row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit three, knit two together; bring the thread forward, and knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Tenth row—the same as the second. Eleventh row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit three; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit one, knit two together; bring the thread forward, knit five; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit one. Twelfth row—the same as the second. Thirteenth row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, knit two together, knit four; bring the thread forward, and knit three together; bring the thread forward, knit six; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Fourteenth row—the same as the second; then recommence as at the first row.

Cast on seven stitches. First row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together; make two stitches, and knit two together. Second row—make one, knit two, purl one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one. Third row—slip one, knit two; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit four. Fourth row—cast off two, knit three; bring the thread forward, and knit two together, knit one; then commence as at first.

PINS No. 14—WOOL Three-thread Fleecy.

Cast on seventy-two stitches, and knit twenty rounds; purling two, and knitting two; then knit six rounds plain.

First round—knit seven, purl one; knit eight, purl one; knit eight, purl one; knit the rest plain. Second round—knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three; knit six, purl three; rest plain. Third round—knit five, purl five; knit four, purl five; knit four, purl five; rest plain. Fourth round—knit as the second. Fifth round—knit as the first. Knit ten rounds plain, still purling one stitch on the end of each diamond.

Begin the thumb by making one stitch in each of the two last, at the same time increasing one plain stitch in the first and third purl stitches. Continue increasing two stitches on the two thumb stitches, each other round, till you have twenty-four extra stitches, which place on another pin, and knit forty rounds without them. Divide the thumb stitches on three pins, and increase two more on the under part of it; knit round, decreasing the same part (the under) till you have twenty-two left, which knit on till long enough, when again decrease till you have nine stitches only; break off the wool, and with a worsted needle, draw it through all the stitches, and fasten it inside. Divide your stitches for each finger, taking two more for each of the two first fingers, than for the other two; it is better to measure by a glove, for the length of the fingers and thumb: this pattern is for the left hand, and wants the pattern for the back, reversing and knitting on the last, instead of the first pin; two-thread fleecy is required.

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The greater part of close crochet articles are done in the double-plain stitch, which is done by taking a piece of wool, and casting on as many loops in chain-stitch as you may require, with the needle; it is very simple, being only to form a loop and draw the wool through one and another; the easiest manner would be, to continue drawing the wool through from right to left; this will make the work the same on both sides. The plain single-crochet is done by merely drawing the one loop you have on your needle through each stitch. Plain double crochet is when you have cast on the foundation-loops, draw the wool through one stitch; take it up again, and through two; this stitch is used for table-covers and sofa-cushions; also when patterns are worked in. In the double-stitch crochet, you take both sides of the loop, but that is only used when you require it thick, and is very nice for soles for shoes.

Raised Crochet is worked alternately from one side to the other, drawing the wool quite through, and taking the underneath part of the loop.

The Chain open Crochet is made of chains, as for instance, five or seven loops drawn one through the other, and joined to the centre stitch of the preceding row; this is very pretty for purses, with a bead on each of the centre stitches.

Single open Crochet is done by putting your needle under the wool, and then through the loop, draw the wool through, you will find that you have three stitches on your needle; draw the wool through the first two stitches, and then through the other two; you will now have one loop: make one by drawing the wool through that one; put it underneath and through the next loop but one; repeat as before.

Double open Crochet is done by drawing it through in the same manner as you did for the single, but omitting the one-loop stitch until you have done two long stitches between each of the long ones.

Treble open Crochet is much the same as the preceding patterns, but having three long stitches and three loop stitches between; in the next row, remember to make the long stitches upon the loops, and the loops on the preceding long stitches; you increase by going twice in the same loop, and decrease by missing one loop.

There is another stitch called the Treble Vandyke open Crochet, which is done by three long stitches, but put through the same loop.

Cast on one hundred and forty loops, and do one row of each colour; three of white and five of coloured will make it wide enough; finish with a chenille tassel at each end.

Choose nine shades of double Berlin wool. Cast on eighty loops, and commence with the darkest shade; one row of each colour to the lightest, and the same to the darkest. You may do them in shaded wool, with white between: make it about three complete stripes or half-a-yard square; you can crochet both sides, or have silk at the back.

This is done in the plain double crochet, also in plain double Berlin wool. Cast on sixty loops, and choose a pretty crochet pattern for the border on each side—say a narrow border of green leaves, perhaps ten or twelve stitches wide, on a scarlet ground, the centre a black ground, with a diamond arabesque pattern, in bright golds, scarlets, greens, and blues; to be about half-a-yard wide altogether, with the border on the other side; you can vary the other part of the bag at pleasure. They are made up with patent leather sides and bottom, with steel at the top. In working patterns, be particular to pass the whole between the needle and the wool you are working with.

These are very comfortable for an invalid, they are generally done in shaded wool, and six colours, say scarlet, green, lilac, orange, blue and drab. Cast on ninety loops, and eight rows of each colour; this is done in the plain double crochet, and when you cast on the loops for the foundation, join the ends, and work round, they are finished with velvet ends, and two pieces of cord round each piece of velvet; black looks better than coloured.

Cast on thirty loops with black wool, crochet four rows all round, increasing one stitch at the end; then take a skein of shaded double Berlin, and commence one stitch below the point of the black; work round to the top of the other side, then commence four loops below, and work till within four of the other side, and so on for eight rows, leaving three less each time; twelve pieces are required done in this manner; all different colours are prettier, or at least six, and repeat them once when you have finished, then crochet them all together and six rows completely round the bottom; you will find you have a space in the middle; crochet enough rows to fill this up, decreasing every three loops; make a round cushion, and cover it with your crochet: put a Brioche mount in the centre.

Commence by casting on three hundred loops, and crochet six plain rows in black, then thread your beads on the blue, and crochet a piece, which is done by making the wrong side of crochet the right; when you are putting on the beads, you must put your needle through the loop, pass a bead up close to the stitch, and finish it, and so on, until the piece is completed; then twelve rows plain, in blue, and six black; the seventh and eighth are done in the plain open crochet. To pass the cord through, you ought to choose a pattern from forty to fifty rows deep.

You may also do round bags, commencing with three stitches, and increasing one in every other, for the first six rounds, and one in every three, for the next twelve, and so on until the bottom is large enough; then as many rounds as you require for the size of the bag; they are pretty in stripes of different colours, with beads or patterns of another colour, upon every alternate stripe.

Cast on one hundred and forty loops, crochet one plain row, then one row of plain open crochet in every loop, one row of the open Vandyke treble crochet; the following of close crochet, if done correctly, will form a leaf. First—work along stitch in every loop. Second—work three long stitches into three loops, make four chain stitches, miss two loops of the foundation, work a stitch of double plain crochet into the next, make four chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat. Third row—work three long stitches over the three in the last row, make five chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet over the one in the last row, make five chain stitches, and repeat. Fourth round—the same as the third. Fifth row—work five stitches of double crochet, beginning on the last chain stitches; before the three long stitches in last row, make eight chain stitches, and repeat one row quite round of the single open crochet; in every loop at the corners of the collar, you must increase two stitches at each end row. To commence the border, or edge of the collar, which of course is carried round as the preceding row—First row—make a long stitch, make one chain stitch, work another long stitch in the same loop, make three chain stitches, miss two of the foundation, and repeat. Second row—work a long stitch into the one chain stitch in last row, make one chain stitch, work another long stitch into the same place, make two chain stitches, and repeat. Third row—the same as the second. Fourth row—work a long stitch into the one chain stitch of the last row, make six chain stitches, and repeat: these collars may be worked in many other patterns, some of which are to be found in a book called Crochet Collars. No. 14, or 16, Boar’s-head cotton, and a small steel needle is required.

Cast on seventy or eighty loops, and crochet six rows in double open crochet; it is prettier in two colours, say French blue, and Ponceau, seven stripes are wide enough; they look well with one end square, and a fringe of beads at the bottom.

Choose any pretty shades, or shaded double Berlin, with rather a small sized hook; cast on one hundred loops, and crochet if in shades, one row of each colour, about thirty rows is required to make it wide enough; they are joined so as to leave it open down the centre, and lined with silk or satin; you will find them better with some scent in between the lining: they are to be fastened with a pretty button, or ribbon.

Cast on for a gentleman, forty loops in double Berlin, and crochet twenty rounds in shaded wool, then six rows of the chain open crochet; ladies’ may be done in single wool.

These are to be done in two colours, say shaded blue or scarlet, with black stripes between; cast on twelve loops, crochet four rows in black, increasing one stitch on each side, and one in the middle, this will form a point on the top of the foot; then two rows of red wool, increasing; you ought to have three stripes of black, and two of coloured; leave all the stitches except twelve at the side, continue six stripes of black, and seven of coloured: will make them large enough for a lady; join the stripe to twelve stitches on the other side, sew these to a cork sole, and bind them round the top with ribbon.

Cast on one hundred and thirty loops, crochet one plain row, then commence with four stitches in the single open crochet; make four loops, miss two of the foundation, four long stitches, four chain stitches, and so on, in the next row; be particular to make the long stitches come over the chain, and vice versa; one row of the double open crochet quite round, one of the single another of the double open, and then a pretty Vandyke edge, if in wool, one row of each shade.

These made with two coloured grounds in stripes, are very handsome; say black and white, with a pattern of two colours, four shades of each, perhaps lilacs and greens on the white ground, and French blue and scarlet on the black, with a narrow stripe of gold colour, between each stripe of the ground. Cast on five loops with black, and increase one stitch at the commencement, one in the middle, and one at the end; then break off your wool, and commence at the same side, this is at the neck, and is to be done in the plain double crochet; continue in this manner until the shawl is large enough, then loop on a fringe; these must be done in double German wool, with the fringe in fleecy.

Cast on five loops, and crochet round until long enough; beads may be introduced the same as on purses, which have a very pretty effect.

Cast on forty-four loops, and crochet one row of single open, and one row of plain double; six rows in the same manner; then do three rows on each side, in the chain open crochet, run ribbon in and out; these have a very pretty effect; they are to be joined and done round.

MINERVA PRESS:
PRINTED BY DARLING AND SON,
LEADENHALL STREET,
LONDON.

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