Copied from a handsome Chart, by permission of the publisher,
Mr. Cross, 18, Holborn, opposite Furnivals' Inn.
(Concluded from page 300.)
[We resume the description of the Swan River Settlement,
which will be further illustrated by the annexed outline.]
The animal productions, we may take for granted, are
generally the same as those of New South Wales. The human
species, in their physical qualities and endowments are the
same. Most of them wore kangaroo cloaks, which were their
only clothing. They carry the same kind of spears, and the
womera, or throwing stick, as are used by those in New South
Wales. In the summer months they frequent the sea-coast,
where their skill in spearing fish is described as quite
wonderful. In winter they mostly adhere to the woods on the
higher grounds, where the kangaroos, the opossum tribe, and
the land tortoises are plentiful. These, with birds and
roots, constitute their sustenance. They have neither boat
nor raft, nor did the party fall in with any thing resembling
a hut. They made use of the word "kangaroo" and other terms
in use at Port Jackson. The party saw only the three kinds of
animals above-mentioned, and heard the barking of the native
dog; no other reptiles but iguanas and lizards and a single
snake presented themselves.
Of birds, the list is somewhat more extensive. The emu is
frequent on the plains, and that once supposed "rara
avis," the elegant black swan, was seen in the greatest
abundance on the river to which it has lent its name, and
particularly on Melville lake. Equally abundant were numerous
species of the goose and duck family. White and black
cockatoos, parrots and parroquets, were every where found.
Pigeons and quails were seen in great quantities, and many
melodious birds were heard in the woods.
Seals were plentiful on all the islands. Captain Stirling
says that it was not the season for whales, but their debris
strewed the shore of Geographer's Bay. The French, in May and
June, met with a prodigious number of whales along this part
of the coast, and sharks equally numerous and of an enormous
size, some of them stated to be upwards of two thousand
pounds in weight. Vlaming mentions the vast numbers of large
sharks on this part of the coast, and he, as well as the
French, found the sea near the shore swarming with
sea-snakes, the largest about nine or ten feet long. Captain
Stirling's party procured three or four different kinds of
good esculent fish; one in particular, a species of rock-cod,
is described as excellent.
"The bottom of the sea," says Captain Stirling, "is composed
of calcareous sand, sometimes passing into marl or clay. On
this may be seen growing an endless variety of marine plants,
which appear to form the haunts and perhaps the sustenance of
quantities of small fish. When it is considered that the bank
extends a hundred miles from the shore, and that wherever the
bottom is seen, it presents a moving picture of various
animals gliding over the green surface of the vegetation, it
is not too much to look forward to the time when a valuable
fishery may be established on these shores. Even now, a boat
with one or two men might be filled in a few hours."
The island of Buache is admirably adapted for a fishing town.
The anchorage close to its eastern shore in Cockburn Island
is protected against all winds; and the island itself, of six
or seven thousand acres, of a light sort of sand and loam, is
well suited, as Mr. Fraser thinks, for any description of
light garden crops. The side next the sea is fenced by a
natural dyke of limestone, coveted with cypress, and in many
places with an arborescent species of Metrosideros; and all
the valleys are clothed with a gigantic species of Solanum,
and a beautiful Brownonia. The soil in these thickets is a
rich brown loam intermixed with blocks of limestone, and
susceptible, Mr. Fraser says, of producing any description of
crop. Fresh water may be had in all these valleys by digging
to the depth of two feet. On this island Captain Stirling
caused a garden to be planted and railed out; on which
account he named it "Garden Island."
On this island, Buache, or Garden (as the party named it)
Captain Stirling left a cow, two ewes in lamb, and three
goats, where, he observes, abundance of grass, and a large
pool of water awaited them. They would be, at all events,
perfectly free from any disturbance from the natives.
Rottenest Island is the largest in this quarter, being about
eight miles in length; it contains several saline lagoons,
separated from the sea, on the north-east side, by a beach
composed mostly of a single species of bivalve shell. Like
Buache, it is covered with an abundant and vigorous
vegetation, and a small species of kangaroo is said by
Freycinet to be numerous upon it. Vlaming, who first
discovered it, speaks in raptures of the beauties of this
island, to which, from the multitude of rats, as he thought
them to be, he gave the name of
the "Rats' Nest." The French call this animal the preamble
... long new.
It is not to be supposed that a hasty visit could enable the
party to explore the mineralogical resources of the country.
It appears, however, by a list of the soils and rock
formations in Captain Stirling's report, that he brought home
specimens of copper ore, of lead ore with silver, and also
with arsenic, two species of magnetic iron, several varieties
of granite, and chalcedony, and of limestone, with stalagmite
incrustations, &c. The high cliffs of Cape Naturaliste
abound with large masses of what Mr. Fraser calls "an
extraordinary aggregate," containing petrifactions of bivalve
and other marine shells, every particle of which was thickly
incrusted with minute crystals. Here, too, he says, veins of
iron of considerable thickness were seen to traverse the rock
in various directions; and he speaks of the caverns formed in
the minacious schistose between the granite and the
limestone, as something very extraordinary. They contained
rock-salt in large quantities, forming thick incrustations on
every part of the surface, beautifully crystallized, and
penetrating into the most compact parts of the rock. In many
of these caverns were very brilliant stalactites and
stalagmites of extraordinary size adhering to the nodules of
granite which form their bases or floors, and which are from
forty to fifty feet above the level of the sea.
In several parts of the limestone formation, mineral springs
were found; one in particular was noticed within half a mile
of the entrance into Swan River. It bubbled out at the base
of the solid rock in a stream, whose transverse area was
measured by Captain Stirling, and found to be from six to
seven feet, running at the rate of three feet in a second of
time. It was thermal, saline, pleasant to the taste, and
some, who partook of it, attributed to it an aperient
quality.
Such is the outline of a country on which the government have
determined to establish a colony, and over which they have
justly, and we think judiciously, appointed Captain Stirling
to act as lieutenant-governor. The plan on which it is to be
founded is, in our opinion, unobjectionable. It promises the
most advantageous terms to qualified settlers, and deserves
only to be known to ensure as many of the most respectable
agriculturists as may in the first instance be desirable.
In point of climate, this colony and New South Wales may
perhaps be equally salubrious, though we are disposed to
think that the western aspect and the sea-breezes may
preponderate in favor of the new one;—this being,
probably, milder, as the western sides of all continents and
large islands are, than the eastern sides, in the
winter,—while the refreshing breezes cool the air in
the summer. "In my opinion," says Captain Stirling, "the
climate, considered with reference to health, is highly
salubrious. This opinion is corroborated by that of the
surgeon of the Success, who states in his report to me on the
subject, that, notwithstanding the great exposure of the
people to fatigue, to night air in the neighbourhood of
marshy grounds, and to other causes usually productive of
sickness, he had not a case upon his sick list, except for
slight complaints unconnected with climate."
It likewise appears, from Captain Stirling's report, that the
thermometer, in the hot months of January, February, and
March, averaged, in the morning, about 60 deg.; at noon,
about 78 deg.; and in the evening 65 deg. The barometer
averaged about 30 deg. The weather generally fine,—some
rain and showery weather, and occasionally thunder and
lightning.
In geographical position it has an incalculable advantage
over New South Wales. In the first place, it is not only much
more conveniently situated than that colony, but is much
nearer to, and has much more easy means of communication
with, every part of the civilized world, the east coast of
America perhaps excepted. The passages to it from England,
and from the Cape of Good Hope, are shortened by nearly a
month, and the return voyages still more. The voyage from it
to Madras and Ceylon is little more than three weeks at all
times of the year, and only a month from those places to it;
while for six months in the year, namely, from November to
April, inclusive, when the western monsoons prevail on the
northern coast of Australia, the passage from New South Wales
through Torres Strait, always dangerous, is then utterly
impracticable; and that through Bass's Strait nearly so to
merchant vessels, on account of the westerly winds which blow
through it at all times of the year, and which generally
oblige them to go round the southern extremity of Van
Nieman's Land. The Success frigate left Port Jackson on the
17th of January, and did not reach Cape Leeuwin till the 2nd
of February, being six weeks and two days; and Captain
Stirling observes, that the only chance, by which the passage
could be accomplished at all, was by carrying a constant
press of sail.
One point of consideration,(says the writer of
the "Hints,") in the proposed measure (although in reality of
no essential importance to pecuniary success) is of
considerable magnitude, as regards moral feeling and the
pride of many—that is, there being no admission of
convicts into the proposed colony! Without any illiberal
sentiment, this is a disadvantage under which Port Jackson
and Van Nieman's Land certainly suffer. Nevertheless these
thriving colonies, in the course of thirty or forty years,
have made surprising progress in agriculture, population,
commerce and wealth. The situation of Port Jackson was the
most distant from the mother country; its position was not
peculiarly adapted to production or traffic with any part of
the globe; therefore, the improvement can only be attributed
to a favorable soil, free from the taxation of old European
governments, a low fee cost, or a nominal pepper corn rent,
which circumstances have not only been capable of maintaining
those who adventured, but of yielding a profit for capital
sufficient to induce others to pursue the same course.
In the infancy of a colony, the certain maintenance of the
settlers should be well established; and it is also right to
know with what facility and at what cost, an adequate supply
of necessaries, comforts, and even luxuries may be obtained.
Adjacent, and favorably situated to Cockburn Sound, are the
Mauritius, Cape of Good Hope, Timer, Java, Sumatra, and the
East Indian Presidencies.
Rice, from Java, can be obtained in five weeks, at or
under 1d. per pound.
The bantam fowls and China pigs at equally moderate prices.
Sugar,6
from the Mauritius, Java, or Calcutta, at 3d. per
pound.
Coffee, from Java, 4d. per pound.
Spices, the production of the Moluccas, Celebees,
&c. &c. at the lowest possible rate:—viz.
pepper, nutmegs, cloves, &c.
Algoa Bay, the Cape of Good Hope, furnishes cattle and sheep.
The coast of Cockburn Sound and Swan and Canning Rivers,
promises plenty of fish for the table—also, oil for
use. Tea will not cost more than 2s. 6d. per
pound through Java; from whence stock of cattle, poultry and
pigs can be added of the best quality.
There is no intention in these remarks to shew the extent of
production of which the soil and climate are capable; time
and prosperity will be requisite to bring forward all their
capabilities. Nothing, therefore, has been said of the
articles grown in similar latitudes in Asia, and carried to
Smyrna and other Turkish ports at immense distances, for
export to England, France, and Holland. There is, however, no
reason for supposing that silk, (equal to that of Brussa,)
opium, madder roots, goats' wool, senna, gums, currants,
raisins, and the highly esteemed Turkish tobacco, and various
other productions, may not be cultivated to advantage half a
century hence. But in the commencement, it is sufficient to
look to early, certain, and profitable returns;
without calculating upon chances of wealth, which may not be
realized in the lifetime of the present adventurers.
It remains only for us to offer a word of advice (says the
writer in the Quarterly Review) to the multitudes who
we understand are preparing to take their flight to this new
land of Goshen,—which is this: that no one should at
present think of venturing on such a step, unless he can
carry out with him, either in his own person or in his family
or followers, the knowledge of agriculture, and the
capability of agricultural labour. It is quite certain that,
for the first few years, every settler must be mainly
indebted for the means of subsistence of himself and family
to the produce of the soil; beyond this the country itself,
for the first year, will afford him nothing, with the
exception, perhaps, of a little fish—the rest must be
raised by the labour of the ploughman and the horticulturist.
The only settlers, therefore, who can reasonably hope to
thrive in the infant state of the colony must consist of this
description of persons; any others, with very few exceptions,
must inevitably be disappointed, if not irretrievably ruined.
A clergyman, a schoolmaster, a land-surveyor, an apothecary,
a few small tradesmen and fishermen, may reasonably expect
employment and make themselves useful to the new community;
as will also a limited number of house-carpenters, joiners,
bricklayers, black-smiths, tailors, shoemakers, and common
labourers, the latter being required to assist in building
habitations; but the unproductive
class, or idlers, had better wait a few years
before they embark for a country where, as yet, there is
neither hut nor hovel, and where the "fruges consumere
nati" have unquestionably no place in society. We cannot
forget what happened, when, a few years ago, the government
resolved to send out, at a very considerable expense, a
number of new settlers to improve and extend the agriculture
of the Cape of Good Hope; giving allowances to the heads of
parties, proportioned to their respective numbers.
The persons best calculated for effecting the improvement of
the colony, and, at the same time, their own condition, must
be looked for among the English and Scotch farmers; these
cannot fail. To such we would recommend not to encumber
themselves, and incur a great and unnecessary expense, by
carrying out live-stock from home, but to take them from the
Cape of Good Hope. At Algoa Bay, which is perfectly safe for
six months in the year, they may be supplied with every kind
of domestic animal, in good condition, and at reasonable
prices, which may be carried to their destination in the
short space of twenty-eight days. Seed corn and the seeds of
culinary vegetables may be taken from home; but of young
plants of peaches, pomegranates, oranges, figs, and vines, it
may be advisable to take a supply from the Cape of Good Hope.
For these, and many other species of fruit, the climate is
admirably adapted; and the vine, in particular, is just
calculated for the limestone ridge which extends along the
coast facing the western sun.
It appears that apprehensions of interruption were once
entertained from a prior settlement from France; these fears
are however, removed by that nation having fixed on a point,
to colonize, in latitude 25 deg. south, (which is distant
north of the Swan River 400 miles) called Shark's Bay, within
which there is an inlet called Freycinet's Harbour. The
country in this neighbourhood much resembles the western
coast.