What! Washington Irving, or, as the title-page will have it,
Geoffrey Crayon, in SPAIN, wandering up and down the deserted halls
of the Alhambra, and weaving its legendary lore with thick coming
fancies into sketches of enchanting interest. The origin of the
work, (the New Sketch Book,) as it has been inappropriately
styled, is told in the dedication to David Wilkie, Esq., R.A. Mr.
Irving and the great artist just named were fellow travellers on
the continent a few years since. In their rambles about some of the
old cities of Spain, they were more than once struck with scenes
and incidents which reminded them of passages in the "Arabian
Nights." The painter urged Mr. Irving to write something that
should illustrate those peculiarities, "something in the Haroun
Alrasched style" that should have a dash of that Arabian spice
which pervades every thing in Spain. The author set to work, con
amore, and has produced two goodly volumes, with a few
"Arabesque" sketches and tales founded on popular traditions. His
study was THE ALHAMBRA, which must have inspired him for his
task. To quote his own words: "how many legends and traditions,
true and fabulous; how many songs and romances, Spanish and
Arabian, of love and war, and chivalry, are associated with this
romantic pile." The Governor of the Alhambra gave Mr. Irving and
his companion, permission to occupy his vacant apartments in the
Moorish Palace. "My companion," says the author, "was soon summoned
away by the duties of his station; but I remained for several
months, spellbound in the old enchanted pile."
Such is the plan or frame of the work before us. It has induced
us to select the Embellishments on the annexed page; and their
description, from so graceful a pencil as that of the author, will,
we hope, bespeak the favour of the reader.
"The Alhambra is an ancient fortress or castellated palace of
the Moorish kings of Granada, where they held dominion over this
their boasted terrestrial paradise, and made their last stand for
empire in Spain. The palace occupies but a portion of the fortress,
the walls of which, studded with towers, stretch irregularly round
the whole crest of a lofty hill that overlooks the city, and forms
a spur of the Sierra Nevada, or snowy mountain.
"In the time of the Moors, the fortress was capable of
containing an army of forty thousand men within its precincts, and
served occasionally as a stronghold of the sovereigns against their
rebellious subjects. After the kingdom had passed into the hands of
the Christians, the Alhambra continued a royal demesne, and was
occasionally inhabited by the Castilian monarchs. The Emperor
Charles V. began a sumptuous palace within its walls, but was
deterred from completing it by repeated shocks of earthquakes. The
last royal residents were Philip V. and his beautiful queen
Elizabetta of Parma, early in the eighteenth century. Great
preparations were made for their reception. The palace and gardens
were placed in a state of repair, and a new suite of apartments
erected, and decorated by artists brought from Italy. The sojourn
of the sovereigns was transient, and after their departure the
palace once more became desolate. Still the place was maintained
with some military state. The governor held it immediately from the
crown, its jurisdiction extended down into the suburbs of the city,
and was independent of the captain general of Granada. A
considerable garrison was kept up, the governor had his apartments
in the front of the old Moorish palace, and never descended into
Granada without some military parade. The fortress, in fact, was a
little town of itself, having several streets of houses within its
walls, together with a Franciscan convent and a parochial
church.
"The desertion of the court, however, was a fatal blow to the
Alhambra. Its beautiful halls became desolate, and some of them
fell to ruin; the gardens were destroyed, and the fountains ceased
to play. By degrees the dwellings became filled up with a loose and
lawless population; contrabandistas, who availed themselves of its
independent jurisdiction to carry on a wide and daring course of
smuggling, and thieves and rogues of all sorts, who made this their
place of refuge from whence they might depredate upon Granada and
its vicinity. The strong arm of government at length interfered:
the whole community was thoroughly sifted; none were suffered to
remain but such as were of honest character, and had legitimate
right to a residence; the greater part of the houses were
demolished and a mere hamlet left, with the parochial church and
the Franciscan convent. During the recent troubles in Spain, when
Granada was in the hands of the French, the Alhambra was garrisoned
by their troops, and the palace was occasionally
inhabited by the French commander. With that enlightened taste
which has ever distinguished the French nation in their conquests,
this monument of Moorish elegance and grandeur was rescued from the
absolute ruin and desolation that were overwhelming it. The roofs
were repaired, the saloons and galleries protected from the
weather, the gardens cultivated, the water courses restored, the
fountains once more made to throw up their sparkling showers; and
Spain may thank her invaders for having preserved to her the most
beautiful and interesting of her historical monuments.
"On the departure of the French they blew up several towers of
the outer wall, and left the fortifications scarcely tenable. Since
that time the military importance of the post is at an end. The
garrison is a handful of invalid soldiers, whose principal duty is
to guard some of the outer towers, which serve occasionally as a
prison of state; and the governor, abandoning the lofty hill of the
Alhambra, resides in the centre of Granada, for the more convenient
dispatch of his official duties.
"The Alhambra has been so often and so minutely described by
travellers, that a mere sketch will, probably, be sufficient for
the reader to refresh his recollection; I will give, therefore, a
brief account of our visit to it the morning after our arrival in
Granada.
"Leaving our posada of La Espada, we traversed the renowned
square of the Vivarrambla, once the scene of Moorish jousts and
tournaments, now a crowded market-place. From thence we proceeded
along the Zacatin, the main street of what, in the time of the
Moors, was the Great Bazaar, where the small shops and narrow
allies still retain the Oriental character. Crossing an open place
in front of the palace of the captain-general, we ascended a
confined and winding street, the name of which reminded us of the
chivalric days of Granada. It is called the Calle, or street of the
Gomeres, from a Moorish family famous in chronicle and song. This
street led up to a massive gateway of Grecian architecture, built
by Charles V. forming the entrance to the domains of the
Alhambra.
"At the gate were two or three ragged and superannuated
soldiers, dozing on a stone bench, the successors of the Zegris and
the Abencerrages; while a tall meagre varlet, whose rusty-brown
cloak was evidently intended to conceal the ragged state of his
nether garments, was lounging in the sunshine and gossiping with an
ancient sentinel on duty. He joined us as we entered the gate, and
offered his services to show us the fortress.
"I have a traveller's dislike to officious ciceroni, and did
not-altogether like the garb of the applicant.
"'You are well acquainted with the place, I presume?'
"'Ninguno mas; pues Senor, soy hijo de la
Alhambra.'—(Nobody better; in fact, Sir, I am a son of the
Alhambra!)
"The common Spaniards have certainly a most poetical way of
expressing themselves. 'A son of the Alhambra!' the appellation
caught me at once; the very tattered garb of my new acquaintance
assumed a dignity in my eyes. It was emblematic of the fortunes of
the place, and befitted the progeny of a ruin.
"I put some farther questions to him, and found that his title
was legitimate. His family had lived in the fortress from
generation to generation ever since the time of the conquest. His
name was Mateo Ximenes. 'Then, perhaps,' said I, 'you may be a
descendant from the great Cardinal Ximenes?'—'Dios Sabe! God
knows, Senor! It may be so. We are the oldest family in the
Alhambra,—Christianos Viejos, old Christians, without
any taint of Moor or Jew. I know we belong to some great family or
other, but I forget whom. My father knows all about it: he has the
coat-of-arms hanging up in his cottage, up in the fortress.' There
is not any Spaniard, however poor, but has some claim to high
pedigree. The first title of this ragged worthy, however, had
completely captivated me, so I gladly accepted the services of the
'son of the Alhambra.'
"We now found ourselves in a deep narrow ravine, filled with
beautiful groves, with a steep avenue, and various footpaths
winding through it, bordered with stone seats, and ornamented with
fountains. To our left, we beheld the towers of the Alhambra
beetling above us; to our right, on the opposite side of the
ravine, we were equally dominated by rival towers on a rocky
eminence. These, we were told, were the Torres Vermejos, or
vermilion towers, so called from their ruddy hue. No one knows
their origin. They are of a date much anterior to the Alhambra:
some suppose them to have been built by the Romans; others, by some
wandering colony of Phoenicians. Ascending the steep and shady
avenue, we arrived at the foot of a huge square Moorish tower;
forming a kind of barbican, through which passed the
main entrance to the fortress. Within the barbican was another
group of veteran invalids, one mounting guard at the portal, while
the rest, wrapped in their tattered cloaks, slept on the stone
benches. This portal is called the Gate of Justice, from the
tribunal held within its porch during the Moslem domination, for
the immediate trial of petty causes: a custom common to the
Oriental nations, and occasionally alluded to in the Sacred
Scriptures.
"The great vestibule or porch of the gate, is formed by an
immense Arabian arch, of the horse-shoe form, which springs to half
the height of the tower. On the key-stone of this arch is engraven
a gigantic hand. Within the vestibule, on the key-stone of the
portal, is sculptured, in like manner, a gigantic key. Those who
pretend to some knowledge of Mahometan symbols, affirm that the
hand is the emblem of doctrine, and the key of faith; the latter,
they add, was emblazoned on the standard of the Moslems when they
subdued Andalusia, in opposition to the Christian emblem of the
Cross. A different explanation, however, was given by the
legitimate son of the Alhambra, and one more in unison with the
notions of the common people, who attach something of mystery and
magic to every thing Moorish, and have all kind of superstitions
connected with this old Moslem fortress.
"According to Mateo, it was a tradition handed down from the
oldest inhabitants, and which he had from his father and
grandfather, that the hand and key were magical devices on which
the fate of the Alhambra depended. The Moorish King who built it
was a great magician, or, as some believed, had sold himself to the
devil, and had laid the whole fortress under a magic spell. By this
means it had remained standing for several hundred years, in
defiance of storms and earthquakes, while almost all other
buildings of the Moors had fallen to ruin, and disappeared. This
spell, the tradition went on to say, would last until the hand on
the outer arch should reach down and grasp the key, when the whole
pile would tumble to pieces, and all the treasures buried beneath
it by the Moors would be revealed.
"Notwithstanding this ominous prediction, we ventured to pass
through the spell-bound gateway, feeling some little assurance
against magic art in the protection of the Virgin, a statue of whom
we observed above the portal.
"After passing through the barbican, we ascended a narrow lane,
winding between walls, and came on an open esplanade within the
fortress, called the Plaza de los Algibes, or Place of the
Cisterns, from great reservoirs which undermine it, cut in the
living rock by the Moors for the supply of the fortress. Here,
also, is a well of immense depth, furnishing the purest and coldest
of water; another monument of the delicate taste of the Moors, who
were indefatigable in their exertions to obtain that element in its
crystal purity.
"In front of this esplanade is the splendid pile commenced by
Charles V., intended, it is said, to eclipse the residence of the
Moslem kings. With all its grandeur and architectural merit, it
appeared to us like an arrogant intrusion, and, passing by it, we
entered a simple, unostentatious portal, opening into the interior
of the Moorish palace.
"The transition was almost magical: it seemed as if we were at
once transported into other times and another realm, and were
treading the scenes of Arabian story. We found ourselves in a great
court, paved with white marble, and decorated at each end with
light Moorish peristyles: it is called the Court of the Alberca. In
the centre was an immense basin or fish-pond, a hundred and thirty
feet in length by thirty in breadth, stocked with gold-fish and
bordered by hedges of roses. At the upper end of this court rose
the great Tower of Comares.
"From the lower end we passed through a Moorish archway into the
renowned Court of Lions. There is no part of the edifice that gives
us a more complete idea of its original beauty and magnificence
than this, for none has suffered so little from the ravages of
time. In the centre stands the fountain famous in song and story.
The alabaster basins still shed their diamond drops; and the twelve
lions, which support them, cast forth their crystal streams as in
the days of Boabdil. The court is laid out in flower-beds, and
surrounded by light Arabian arcades of open filagree work,
supported by slender pillars of white marble. The architecture,
like that of all the other parts of the palace, is characterized by
elegance rather than grandeur; bespeaking a delicate and graceful
taste, and a disposition to indolent enjoyment. When one looks upon
the fairy tracery of the peristyles, and the apparently fragile
fretwork of the walls, it is difficult to believe that so much has
survived the wear and tear of centuries, the shocks of earthquakes,
the violence of war, and the quiet, though no less baneful,
pilferrings of the tasteful traveller: it is almost sufficient to
excuse the popular tradition, that the whole is protected by a
magic charm.
"On one side of the court, a portal, richly adorned, opens into
a lofty hall, paved with white marble, and called the Hall of the
Two Sisters. A cupola, or lantern, admits a tempered light from
above, and a free circulation of air. The lower part of the walls
is encrusted with beautiful Moorish tiles, on some of which are
emblazoned the escutcheons of the Moorish monarchs: the upper part
is faced with the fine stucco-work invented at Damascus, consisting
of large plates, cast in moulds, and artfully joined, so as to have
the appearance of having been laboriously sculptured by the hand
into light relievos and fanciful arabesques, intermingled with
texts of the Koran, and poetical inscriptions in Arabian and Cufic
character. These decorations of the walls and cupolas are richly
gilded, and the interstices pencilled with lapis-lazuli, and other
brilliant and enduring colours. On each side of the hall are
recesses for ottomans and couches. Above the inner porch is a
balcony, which communicated with the women's apartments. The
latticed 'jalousies' still remain, from whence the dark-eyed
beauties of the haram might gaze unseen upon the entertainments of
the hall below.
"It is impossible to contemplate this once favourite abode of
Oriental manners without feeling the early associations of Arabian
romance, and almost expecting to see the white arm of some
mysterious princess beckoning from the balcony, or some dark eye
sparkling through the lattice. The abode of beauty is here, as if
it had been inhabited but yesterday; but where are the Zoraydas and
Lindaraxas?
"On the opposite side of the Court of Lions, is the Hall of the
Abencerrages; so called from the gallant cavaliers of that
illustrious line who were here perfidiously massacred. There are
some who doubt the whole truth of this story; but our humble
attendant Mateo pointed out the very wicket of the portal through
which they are said to have been introduced, one by one, and the
white marble fountain in the centre of the hall where they were
beheaded. He showed us also certain broad ruddy stains in the
pavement, traces of their blood, which, according to popular
belief, can never be effaced. Finding we listened to him with easy
faith, he added, that there was often heard at night, in the Court
of Lions, a low, confused sound, resembling the murmuring of a
multitude; with now and then a faint tinkling, like the distant
clank of chains. These noises are probably produced by the bubbling
currents and tinkling falls of water, conducted under the pavement,
through pipes and channels, to supply the fountains; but, according
to the legend of the son of the Alhambra, they are made by the
spirits of the murdered Abencerrages, who nightly haunt the scene
of their suffering, and invoke the vengeance of Heaven on their
destroyer.
"From the Court of Lions we retraced our steps through the Court
of the Alberca, or Great Fishpool; crossing which we proceeded to
the Tower of Comares, so called from the name of the Arabian
architect. It is of massive strength and lofty height, domineering
over the rest of the edifice, and overhanging the steep hill-side,
which descends abruptly to the banks of the Darro. A Moorish
archway admitted us into a vast and lofty hall, which occupies the
interior of the tower, and was the grand audience chamber of the
Moslem monarchs, thence called the Hall of Ambassadors. It still
bears the traces of past magnificence. The walls are richly
stuccoed and decorated with arabesques; the vaulted ceiling of
cedar-wood, almost lost in obscurity, from its height, still gleams
with rich gilding, and the brilliant tints of the Arabian pencil.
On three sides of the saloon are deep windows cut through the
immense thickness of the walls, the balconies of which look down
upon the verdant valley of the Darro, the streets and convents of
the Albaycin, and command a prospect of the distant Vega.
"I might go on to describe minutely the other delightful
apartments of this side of the palace; the Tocador, or toilet of
the queen, an open belvidere, on the summit of a tower, where the
Moorish sultanas enjoyed the pure breezes from the mountain, and
the prospect of the surrounding paradise; the secluded little
patio, or garden of Lindaraxa, with its alabaster fountain, its
thickets of roses and myrtles, of citrons and oranges; the cool
halls and grottoes of the baths, where the glare and heat of day
are tempered into a soft mysterious light, and a pervading
freshness.
"While the city below pants with the noontide heat, and the
parched vega trembles to the eye, the delicate airs from the Sierra
Nevada, play through these lofty halls, bringing with them the
sweetness of the surrounding gardens. Every thing invites to that
indolent repose, the bliss of southern climes; and while the
half-shut eye looks out from shaded balconies upon
the glittering landscape, the ear is lulled by the rustling of
groves, and the murmur of running streams." Here we must end.
The Sketches bear the very perfection of romance in their
titles. Yes, expectant reader, think of the Alhambra by
Moonlight—A Ramble among the Hills—Legend of the
Arabian Astrologer—The Tower of Las Infantas—Legends of
the three beautiful Princesses—The Pilgrim of Love—The
Rose of the Alhambra,—the two discreet Statues, &c.
&c. What hours of spell-bound delight do these two volumes lock
up, yet we hope but for a short season, from all who would vary
"life's dull round" with romantic lore.