NEW COLONY ON SWAN RIVER.
We have abridged the following very important and interesting
information respecting the New Settlement on the Western
Coast of Australia, from the last Number of the Quarterly
Review. The writer appears to have profited by access to
official sources, and thus enhanced the value of his paper;
but, disposed as we are, generally, to coincide with his
views on the subject of Emigration, we do not think it
necessary to detail them in this place. We have, however,
retained the "Regulations," as issued from the Colonial
Office, and made occasional quotations from Captain
Stirling's Report; besides availing ourselves of a pamphlet
lately published, entitled "Hints on Emigration to the New
Settlement on the Swan and Canning
Rivers."2
The Report of Mr. Fraser, the government botanical surveyor,
from Sydney, who accompanied Captain Stirling, is not so easy
of access. The Quarterly writer, by some coincident
opinions and references, appears to be acquainted with the
above pamphlet, although it is not mentioned in the review.
The official Regulations are as follow:—
1. His majesty's government do not intend to incur any
expense in conveying settlers to the New Colony on the
Swan River; and will not feel bound to defray the expense of
supplying them with provisions or other necessaries, after
their arrival there, nor to assist their removal to England,
or elsewhere, should they be desirous of quitting the Colony.
2. Such persons who may arrive in that settlement before the
end of the year 1830, will receive, in the order of their
arrival, grants of land, free of quit rent, proportioned to
the capital which they may be prepared to invest in the
improvement of the land, and of which capital they maybe able
to produce satisfactory proofs to the Lieutenant Governor (or
other officer administering the Colonial Government,) or to
any two officers of the Local Government appointed by the
Lieutenant Governor for that purpose, at the rate of forty
acres for every sum of three pounds which they may be
prepared so to invest.
3. Under the head of investment of capital will be considered
stock of every description, all implements of husbandry, and
other articles which may be applicable to the purposes of
productive industry, or which may be necessary for the
establishment of the settler on the land where he is to be
located. The amount of any half-pay or pension which the
applicant may receive from Government, will also be
considered as so much capital.
4. Those who may incur the expense of taking out labouring
persons, will be entitled to an allowance of land at the rate
of fifteen pounds, that is, of two hundred acres of land, for
the passage of every such labouring person, over and above
any other investment of capital. In the class of "labouring
persons," are included women, and children above ten years
old. Provision will be made by law, at the earliest
opportunity for rendering those capitalists, who may be
engaged in taking out labouring persons to this settlement,
liable for the future maintenance of those persons, should
they, from infirmity, of any other cause, become unable to
maintain themselves there.
5. The license of occupation of land will be granted to the
settler, on satisfactory proof being exhibited to the
Lieutenant Governor (or other officer administering the Local
Government,) of the amount of property brought into the
colony. The proofs required of such property will be such
satisfactory vouchers of expenses as would be received in
auditing public accounts. But the full title to the land will
not be granted in fee simple, until the settler has proved,
(to the satisfaction of the Lieutenant Governor for other
officer administering the Local Government,) that the sum
required by Article 2 of these regulations (viz. one shilling
and sixpence per acre) has been expended in the cultivation
of the land, or in solid improvements, such as buildings,
roads, or other works of the kind.
6. Any grant of land thus allotted, of which a fair
proportion, of at least one fourth, shall not have been
brought into cultivation, otherwise improved or reclaimed
from its wild state, to the extent of one shilling and
sixpence per acre, to the satisfaction of the Local
Government, within three years from the date of the license
of occupation, shall, at the end of three years, be liable to
a payment of sixpence per acre, into the public chest of the
settlement; and, at the expiration of seven years more,
should the land still remain in an uncultivated or unimproved
state, it will revert absolutely to the crown.
7. After the year 1830, land will be disposed of to those
settlers who may resort to the colony, on such conditions as
his Majesty's Government shall see occasion to adopt.
8. It is not intended that any convicts, or other description
of prisoners, be transported to this new settlement.
9. The government will be administered by Captain Stirling,
of the Royal Navy, as Lieut. Governor of the settlement; and
it is proposed that a bill should be submitted to parliament,
in the course of the next session, to make provision for the
civil government of the New Settlement.
Downing Street, 13th January, 1829.
The intended settlement is designated, in the "Regulations,"
as the "New Colony on the Swan River;"3
but this is a name, we think, not sufficiently comprehensive
for the extent of territory meant to be occupied. What its
future designation is meant to be, we pretend not to know,
but if its soil should prove as fruitful as its climate is
fine, the position and aspect of this part of the coast might
justify the name of Southern, or Australian, Hesperia;
under which might be included all that line of coast from
Cape Leuwin, the southernmost point of New Holland, in lat.
34 deg. 30 min., long. 115 deg. 12 min. east, to the lat. 31
deg. (or a degree or two more northerly) long. 115 deg. 15
min. east; and from the former point easterly to King
George's Sound, where an English colony has already been
established. This extent of territory, between the sea-coast
and a range of mountains parallel to it, hereafter to be
described, may be estimated
to contain from five to six millions of acres,
the greater part of which, from the general appearance of the
two extreme portions (the only ones examined) may be
considered as land fit for the plough, and, therefore, fully
capable of giving support to a million of souls. The
description we are about to give of this territory is mainly
derived from Captain Stirling, the intelligent officer who
explored the country, and of which he has been appointed the
Lieutenant Governor, and from Mr. Fraser, an excellent
botanist, who accompanied him, and who was well acquainted
with the soil and products of New South Wales, on the
opposite side of Australia.
Captain Stirling, when commanding the Success frigate, was
sent to New South Wales on a particular service, which the
state of the monsoon prevented him from carrying into
immediate execution. He determined, therefore, on the
recommendation of General Darling, the governor, to explore,
in the meantime, this western part of Australia, which was
omitted to be surveyed by Captain King, on the ground that it
had been visited by the French in the expedition of
Captain Baudin: the result of that visit, however, is so
unsatisfactory, and so very inaccurate, that we are rather
surprised that Captain King should have passed over so
interesting a portion, geographically considered, as the
south-western angle of this great country. Captain Stirling
arrived at Cape Leuwin on the 2nd of March, 1827, stood along
the coast, and anchored in Gage's Roads, opposite Swan River,
which he afterwards ascended to its source in boats, and sent
out exploring parties to ascertain the nature of the
surrounding territory.
"We found," he says, "the country in general rich and
romantic, gained the summit of the first range of mountains,
and had a bird's-eye view of an immense plain, which extended
as far as the eye could reach to the northward, southward,
and westward. After ten days' absence, we returned to the
ship; we encountered no difficulty that was not easily
removable; we were furnished with abundance of fresh
provisions by our guns, and met with no obstruction from the
natives."
Captain Stirling describes the weather as very different from
that which the French experienced; but the latter were on the
coast at the commencement of the winter season. They were
apparently so alarmed at the gales of wind, the rocks, and
the reefs, and the banks, that they hastened to leave behind
them this part of the coast unexamined, with all convenient
speed. The strong westerly winds that prevail throughout the
year in the southern ocean to the southward of the tropic,
appear to assume a northern direction near this part of the
Coast of Australia. These winds are here found to be cool and
pleasant, and were generally accompanied by clear and serene
weather. The summer winds from the N.W. are not infrequent;
and, coming charged with moisture from a warm region into a
colder one, they are invariably accompanied by rain; but, in
the immediate vicinity of the shore, land and sea breezes are
constant and regular. The climate appears to be delightful.
While the Success was on the coast—that is, in the
autumn—the average height of the thermometer was 72
deg., the extremes being 84 deg. and 59 deg., the first
occurring before the sea-breeze set in, the latter at
midnight. The French found the temperature when at anchor, in
June, from 14 deg. to 17 deg. of Reaumur, or 63 deg. to 70
deg. of Fahrenheit. On the mountains, Captain Stirling says,
the temperature appeared to be about 15 deg. below that of
the plain. The alternate land and sea breezes create a
moisture in the atmosphere which renders the climate cool and
agreeable; the mornings and evenings are particularly so; and
the nights are almost invariably brilliant and clear. Such a
climate, it is almost unnecessary to say must be highly
favourable to vegetation, which was accordingly observed to
be most luxuriant. "The verdant appearance," says Captain
Stirling, "and almost innumerable variety of grasses,
herbaceous plants, shrubs, and trees, show that there is no
deficiency in the three great sources of their sustenance,
soil, heat, and moisture."
The general structure and aspect of the country may be thus
described:—from Cape Leuwin to Cape Naturaliste (the
southern head of Baie Géographe,) which is not quite a
degree of latitude, the coast is formed of a range of hills,
of uniform and moderate elevation. From Geographer's Bay to
the northward of Swan River, the whole coast line is a
limestone ridge, varying in height from twenty to six hundred
feet, and extending inward to the distance of from one to
five miles. Behind this ridge (whose occasional naked and
barren appearance Captain Stirling also thinks may have
caused the early and continued prejudice against the
fertility of this western coast) commences a great plain,
which occupies a space, from south to north, of undetermined
length, (reaching, perhaps, to King George's Sound,) and
varying, in breadth, from twenty to fifty miles. The eastern
boundary of this plain skirts the base of an almost
continuous and abrupt chain of mountains, to
which Captain Stirling gave the name of "General Darling's
Range." One of the points, the highest seen and measured by
him, was about three thousand feet high, The average height
is stated to be from twelve hundred to fifteen hundred feet.
The base is granite; the sides, in many parts, naked; and the
soil supports but little vegetation, except the Stringy-bark
and some hardy plants.
Captain Stirling observes, that coal was not found, because
it was not particularly sought for; but he is of opinion that
the general character of the country is such as to warrant
the belief that it might be found; "for," he observes, "all
the concomitant strata or members of the coal formation are
exposed on different parts of the surface, below which I had
no opportunity to explore. Indeed, the carboniferous order of
locks is that which is most frequently exhibited throughout
this territory; and I have no doubt important results would
arise from a proper examination into its mineralogical
resources."
With reference to a supply of fresh water, so indispensably
necessary in every settled country, the researches made by
Captain Stirling and Mr. Fraser were attended with the most
satisfactory results. The former observes, that the clouds
which are impelled against the western side of the range of
mountains are condensed into rain, the water of which is
conducted across the plain to the sea, in numerous streams,
but chiefly by three principal rivers, terminating in
estuaries, or salt-water lakes. These are—the Swan
River, opposite the Island Rottenest; the Rivière
Vasse, and Port Leschenault, in Geographer's Bay. "We found,"
says Captain Stirling, "a great number of creeks, or
rivulets, falling into Swan River, more particularly on the
eastern side; and I am inclined to think, that the country
generally is much divided by such water-courses. Its supply
of fresh water, from springs and lagoons, is abundant; for we
found such wherever we thought it necessary to ascertain
their existence. At Point Heathcote," he adds, "we met with a
remarkable instance; for there the beach of a narrow rocky
promontory is a bed of springs, and by tracing the finger
along any part within four inches of the edge of the salt
water, pure and fresh water instantly occupied the trace."
Mr. Fraser's testimony leaves no doubt of the abundance of
fresh water. "I was astonished," he says, "at the vivid green
of the Eucalyptus, and other trees and shrubs, so distinct
from those of New South Wales; but, on digging the soil to
the depth of two feet, I found the cause to arise apparently
from the immense number of springs with which this country
abounds; for, at the depth above mentioned, I found the soil
quite moist, although evidently at the latter end of an
exceedingly dry season; and from the same cause must arise
the great luxuriance of the herbaceous plants on the banks,
which exceeds any thing I ever saw on the east coast. They
consist principally of the senecia and the
sonchus, which here attain the height of nine feet."
He further observes, that numerous active springs issue from
the rocks of the limestone ridge, and particularly in
Geographer's Bay, the whole coast of which, he says, "is a
perfect source of active springs, discharging themselves on
the beach in rapid rills of considerable extent, every six or
seven yards."
Between the two heads which form the entrance into Swan
River, there is, unfortunately, a bar, made by the continuity
of the limestone ridge. Over this bar, the depth, at low
water, is but six feet, and is therefore practicable only for
boats or rafts. About a mile inside the heads, the water
deepens; and then commences a succession of cliffs, or
natural wharfs, with four, five, and six fathoms at their
bases. The same depths are extended over a magnificent
expanse of salt water, to which Captain Stirling has given
the name of "Melville Water;" and which, in his opinion,
wants only a good entrance to make it one of the finest
harbours in the world, being seven or eight miles in length,
by three or four in width, and having a depth of water from
four to seven fathoms. This narrow entrance of the river, he
thinks, might be made navigable by ships of burthen, without
difficulty or great expense.
When the town begins to rise, and substantial buildings are
required, the blocks of stone procured by quarrying this
entrance will go far towards paying the expense of
excavation.
Into this expansive sheet of water fall two rivers; one from
the north-east, which is properly the Swan River; the other
from the south-east, called Canning's River. Captain Stirling
examined them both: the former to its source, the latter
beyond the point where the water ceased to be brackish. They
are both sufficiently convenient for boat navigation, even at
the end of the dry season; and any obstruction might easily
be removed to make them more so, by which the productions of
an immense extent of country might be transported by
water-carriage.
Mr. Fraser remarks that nothing of the mangrove
appears along the banks of the Swan River, the usual
situation of this plant being here occupied by the genus
Metrosideros. The first plain, or flat, as it is called,
contiguous to the river, commencing at Point Fraser, is
formed of a rich soil, and appears, by a deposit of wreck, to
be occasionally flooded to a certain extent. Here are several
extensive salt marshes, which Mr. Fraser thinks are admirably
adapted for the growth of cotton. The hills, though scanty of
soil, are covered with an immense variety of plants; among
others, a magnificent species of Angophera occupied the usual
place of the Eucalyptus, which, however, here as on the
eastern side, generally forms the principal feature in the
botany of the country, accompanied by Mimosa, Correa,
Melaleuca, Casuarina, Banksia, and Xanthorea. The brome, or
kangaroo glass, was most abundant. On a more elevated flat, a
little further up the river, the botanist observes that the
"magnificence of the Banksia and arborescent Zamia, which was
here seen thirty feet in height, added to the immense size of
the Xanthorea near this spot, impart to the forest a
character truly tropical." He says that about five miles to
the eastward of the river, there is an evident change in the
character of the country: extensive plains of the richest
description, consisting of an alluvial deposit, equalling in
fertility those of the banks of the River Hawkesbury in New
South Wales, and covered with the most luxuriant brome grass.
The Casuarina, so common near the limestone ridge of the
coast, here disappears, and is succeeded by a pendulous
species of Metrosideros, which continues to the source of the
river.
"From this point," says Mr. Fraser, "the country resembles,
in every essential character, that of the banks of those
rivers which fall to the westward of the Blue Mountains in
New South Wales, varying alternately on each bank from hilly
promontories of the finest red loam, and covered with
stupendous Angopheras, to extensive flats of the finest
description, studded with magnificent blue and water gums,
and occasional stripes of Accacias and papilionaceous shrubs,
resembling the green wattle of New South Wales."
The higher the river is ascended, the more extended the flats
become, and the better is the quality of the soil. Here the
country is said to resemble in character that on the banks of
the Macquarrie River, west of Wellington valley; and though
marks of occasional floods appeared on the lower plains, the
upper flats had evidently never been flooded. The sides of
the mountains were bare of underwood, and their summits
covered with large masses of iron stone, among which were
growing enormous trees of Angophera, and some straggling
plants of Hakea. On a careful examination of this part of the
country bordering the two rivers from the sea-coast to the
mountains, Mr. Fraser says, "In giving my opinion of the land
seen on the banks of the Swan River, I hesitate not in
pronouncing it superior to any I ever saw in New South Wales,
east of the Blue Mountains, not only in its local character,
but in the many existing advantages which it holds out to
settlers. These advantages I consider to be,
"First, the evident superiority of the soil.
"Secondly, the facility with which a settler can bring his
farm into a state of immediate culture, in consequence of the
open state of the country, which allows not a greater average
than two trees to an acre.
"Thirdly, the general abundance of springs, producing water
of the best quality, and the consequent permanent humidity of
the soil; two advantages not existing on the eastern coast.
And,
"Fourthly, the advantages of water carriage to his door, and
the non-existence of impediments to land carriage."
(To be concluded in our next.)
Our readers are aware that the interior of the cupola of this
magnificent cathedral, represents the life of St. Paul,
painted by Sir James Thornhill; but the neglect and decay of
this grand specimen of pictorial decoration may not be so
well known. The great expense of erecting a scaffold
sufficient for its restoration, appears to have been the
principal difficulty, added to the want of artists
experienced in this department of art. These obstacles,
however, we trust have been surmounted by Mr. E.T. Parris, of
whose talents we spoke in our account of the Colosseum, and
who has just completed a model of an apparatus for getting at
large domes. The model has already been approved by an
experienced architect, and submitted to the dean and chapter
of St. Paul's; so that the restoration of Sir James
Thornhill's labours presents an excellent opportunity for the
immediate application of Mr. Parris's machinery; whilst its
accomplishment would be the means of rewarding individual
ingenuity, and rescuing from decay a valuable triumph of
British genius.
Oxymuriate matches must "hide their diminished heads" before
the recent invention of a method of obtaining light, by
merely compressing a match, which inflames instantaneously.
These matches are called Prometheans, and comparing
small things with great, we know not a better name to imply
the scientific age to which the invention belongs.
Mr. Mantell, of Lewes, has lately added to his museum a fine
specimen of a fossil fish, discovered in a bed of clay
belonging to the Hasting sand formation. Similar remains are
abundant in the strata of Tilgate Forest, in the white rock
at Hastings, and in the sandstone quarries near Tunbridge
Wells; but they consist, for the most part, of detached
scales only.
Among the last we notice the model of a boat for aërial
navigation, lately sent to the French Academy from Rome; and
the patent taken out at Paris for a coach with one wheel
only, to accommodate 30 or 40 passengers. The perfection of
the latter scheme in England would render indispensable a
complete revision of our Turnpike Acts.