SERIAL NUMBER 39
THE MEDITERRANEAN
BY
DWIGHT L. ELMENDORF
Lecturer and Traveler
ALGIERS · THE RIVIERA · MONTE CARLO · NICE · GENOA · NAPLES
Across the straits from Gibraltar is another and very different
world. Start with Tangier (tahn-jeer´) and wander along
the Barbary coast, and you will find yourself in such contrasting
conditions, and in a civilization so different from those north of
you in Spain and in France, that it will be hard for you to believe
that you are separated from those countries by distances varying
from the narrow straits of Gibraltar to a mere matter of two or
three hundred miles.
You will seem to have been transported to the other side of the world.
No traveler can find greater variety in scene and life, in language and habit,
in climate and condition, than he gets in the course of a full Mediterranean
tour. Few travelers make the whole circuit of the Mediterranean. This
great inland sea is usually visited only in parts, and while the traveler is
in transit from one point to another. There is no general description
that can apply to the whole of this interesting body of water. On every
shore there is something that is new and different, and somewhere on
these shores there is something to delight each one. If scenery is desired,
the French and Italian Riviera (ree-vee-ay´-rah) will draw one irresistibly.
A life full of gaiety will hold him there. If historic associations
interest him, he will turn naturally to the shores of Italy and Greece, and
he will spend months pleasantly in the Adriatic or Ægean Sea. There
is in those countries an endless amount to learn and a wealth of natural
beauty. When you have cruised through the Ægean (ee-jee´-an), visit
the coast of Greece, and of Asia Minor. There you will know the
feelings that stirred Lord Byron
when he wrote:
“Fair clime! where every season smiles
Benignant o’er those blessed isles,
Which seen from far Colonna’s height,
Make glad the heart that hails the sight,
And lend to loneliness, delight.”
The Mediterranean has been
the arena of the world’s history
for several thousand years.
ALGIERS
A street scene in Algiers near the mosque.
As your eye traces the coast
line on the map and you note the
countries whose shores are washed
by the Mediterranean, you realize
what a trip throughout that sea
must mean in instruction as well
as in delights of travel. Besides
the countries I have named,
there are Turkey, Asia Minor,
Palestine, and Egypt, to say
nothing of the great stretch on
the African coast. The shore
line is so extended, and the life
and customs at different points
vary so, that we think of the
Mediterranean as not one thing,
but many things. What is usually
called a “Mediterranean
trip” rarely comprises more than ten or fifteen points. With limited time,
the traveler naturally selects the points of which he has heard most.
ALGIERS
A scene near the busy market.
A Mediterranean trip to many travelers means Algiers (al-jeerz´), as
far as the African coast is concerned, and the Riviera, with all the
points on that beautiful north shore line. Then they must see Naples,
of course, and after passing down the Italian coast they are likely
to go straight on to Egypt. After passing through the straits of
Gibraltar the attention of the traveler is soon centered on Algiers.
From the entrance to the harbor Algiers appears like a white diamond
set in a circle of emeralds. The town consists of two parts, the French
and the Arab quarters. To the visitor from the west Algiers is most interesting;
for there he meets characters of all kinds, European peoples mixing
with those of North Africa.
The French quarters show that
the Frenchman, when compelled
to live in another country,
takes a bit of Paris with
him; for there is found the
typical French café, with its
little tables on the sidewalk,
contrasting with the Arab café
where natives, in their picturesque
white costumes, sit and
sip their coffee and gossip with
wild gesticulation. Even in its
African population Algiers is
oddly mixed. Each tribe has
its own peculiar costume,
the marketplace
often looking like
a stage of a comic
opera, only much
more artistic and
natural.
MOSQUÉE DE LA PÊCHERIE, ALGIERS
The “Mosque of the Fishery” was erected by Turkish architects in
1660. It is a cruciform building, with a large central dome
painted inside, and a square minaret, now a clock tower.
TOMBEAU DE LA CHRÉTIENNE
This large tomb near Algiers, 108 feet high, was
built as a tomb for Juba II and his family.
It serves as a landmark for sailors. Its present
name is derived from the cruciform moldings
of the door panels.
The government
house, and
in fact all the
buildings except
those in the
French quarters,
are Moorish in
design and generally
whitewashed,
so that they masquerade
as glittering
white marble.
The town is beautifully situated, and is surrounded by a very interesting
country filled with relics of Punic War times, and ruins of structures
of even a more remote period. Near Algiers is the building called
the “tomb of the Christian woman.” This is really the tomb of Juba
II, who married Cleopatra Selene (se-lee´-nee), daughter of the celebrated
Cleopatra and of Marc Antony. Juba II had a son, Ptolemy, and a
daughter, Drusilla, who was the wife of Felix, procurator of Judea,
who, it will be remembered, said to Saint Paul, “Go thy way for this time;
when I have a convenient season, I will call for thee” (Acts xxiv, 25).
A STREET SCENE IN
ALGIERS
Showing three different styles
of costume.
All the coast about Algiers is filled with just such interesting relics
of Biblical times. Perfect French roads now make it possible to reach
the most interesting places by carriage or motorcar.
Across the Mediterranean is a stretch of shore that no traveler in Europe
should miss. It is called “The Riviera,” and it extends from Cannes
(kahn) to Ventimiglia (ven-tee-meel´-yah),
thence to
Spezia (spet´-see-ah), beyond
Genoa (jen´-o-ah);
the former section French,
the latter Italian. From one
end to the other is a chain
of health resorts, some most
fashionable, others the very
opposite; the latter on that
account more desirable to
those who wish peace and
quiet. Even in the most retired
spots, however, there
is no escape from the honk-honk
of the motorcars; for
Riviera highways are the
favorite touring roads of
southern Europe.
LOOKING TOWARD MENTONE
Mentone belonged to Monaco until 1861. It is beautifully situated on
the Golfe de la Paix, consisting of two bays separated by a rocky
promontory.
Beginning at Cannes, the necklace of the sea contains such jewels
as Antibes (ong-teeb´), Nice (nees), Villefranche-sur-Mer (veel-frongsh-soor-mare´),
Beaulieu (bo-lee-eh´), Monaco (mon´-ah-ko), Monte Carlo,
and Mentone (men-to´-ne). These are followed by the Italian section,—Ventimiglia,
Bordighera (bor-dee-gay´-rah), Ospedaletti, San Remo
(ray´-mo), Alassio (ah-lahs´-see-o), Savona (sah-vo´-nah), Pegli (pel´-yee),
and Genoa. This section is called the Riviera di Ponente (po-nen´-teh),
followed by Riviera di Levante (le-vahn´-te) to the east of Genoa,—Nervi
(ner´-vee), Recco (rek´-ko), Santa Margherita Ligure (lih-goor´-eh),
Rapallo (rah-pahl´-lo), Sestri Levante, and Spezia.
The French section is more fully developed, and therefore more comfortable
and fashionable. The Italian section, while beautiful, leaves
much to be desired by the ordinary tourist.
There nestles in the southeast corner
of France a tiny little principality
called Monaco, the most remarkable
place of its kind in the world.
MONTE CARLO
The front of the Casino.
MONACO
The palace of the Prince of Monaco, and in the background the “Tête de
Chien” or “Dog’s Head Mountain.”
It is only about eight square miles in
area, and contains nineteen thousand inhabitants.
Strange as it may seem, there
are no taxes there, as the Société des
Bains de Mer, which is simply a name
for the society or company that runs
the Casino gambling tables at Monte Carlo, pays the tribute. From
the millions of francs paid by this society to the Prince of Monaco and his
government every year, the natural inference is that most of the visitors
to Monte Carlo get nothing except experience.
The Casino building is very theatrical in style, built expressly for
its purpose, and superbly placed on a promontory overlooking the sea and
town. It is surrounded by beautiful gardens, carefully kept. In fact,
the whole place is a delight to the eye and the most beautiful spot on the
Riviera. It is attractive enough to detain one for days, even if the
great magnet, the Casino, were not there. On account of the gaming, the
whole district is filled with characters that one had rather not meet except
in the Casino, where perfect order is assured by the presence of numerous
detectives, ready to check disorder when it threatens, or to notify
politely anyone of suicidal
tendency to leave
the Casino and the
principality. There is
no place in the world
where arrangements
are so well planned to
satisfy the desire of
human beings to get
something for nothing.
And it is not simply
a gaming place. The
spectacle of Monte
Carlo has a great fascination
even for those
who never play at the
tables, everything is so
beautiful, so orderly,
and so well kept. Many who visit there prefer, however, to stop at
Mentone, which is but a few minutes distant by trolley or motorcar.
THE CASINO,
MONTE CARLO
One of the beautiful
gaming rooms,
the “Salle du
Trente-Quarante.”
The Nicæa (ny-see´-a) of ancient times, founded by Massilians
in the fifth century B.C., Nice is the birthplace of Masséna (mah-say-nah´)
and Garibaldi, (gah-ree-bahl´-dee). Sheltered by the Maritime Alps, and
because of the great limestone cliffs along shore, which absorb the heat rays
of the sun, the temperature is so modified that flowers bloom the
year round. Nice and its near neighbors have become a famous resort
for invalids, especially of the English, who flee to this part of the
world to escape their own disagreeable winter. In summer the temperature
is fifteen to twenty degrees lower than Paris. The best
view of the town is obtained from Castle Hill, overlooking the shore of
the Promenade des Anglais, constructed by the English in 1822, in order
to give work to the unemployed. One of the secrets of the great
success of Nice as a resort is the great variety of entertainment
offered by the clever Frenchmen. Fine hotels, theaters, casinos, promenades,
and roads (the best in the world), especially the Petite and
the Grand Corniche (kor-neesh´), together with a superb climate,
are quite enough to attract people from all parts of the world.
The business part of the town is a miniature Paris. Fine avenues,
lined with shops filled with all kinds of attractive things, inveigle the
tourist into extravagant expenditure; while casinos and gambling
places relieve the venturesome of their spare cash most politely.
THE CASINO,
MONTE CARLO
The richly decorated
“Salon de
Conversation.”
NICE
The town and the promenade from Castle Hill.
NICE
Nice is a superb winter resort. In the summer it is less frequented.
From being a republic and a great naval power in the Middle Ages,
and as such a rival of Venice, Genoa has come to be now a city of great
enterprise and activity. It stands next to Marseilles (mahr-saylz´)
in importance as a seaport. It is advantageously situated, the Gulf of
Genoa affording an attractive harbor, and the slopes of the Ligurian
hills at the back offering many spots of advantage for the display of the
city’s beautiful buildings.
The city is finely constructed. As you enter the harbor you find
just before you that part of the lower town that is on the level of the
water. Beyond that and up the hillslopes beautiful structures have
assembled themselves on the different levels of a great natural theater, as
if to watch your coming and to greet you on your arrival.
THE RAILWAY STATION, GENOA
On landing at the pier the traveler quickly finds himself in the attractive
Palazzo Doria, named after Andrea Doria, (do´-ree-ah) the famous
admiral of Charles V. It is well for the visitor, especially if an American,
to take this course, following up the Via Doria to the square in
front of the railway station; for there, surrounded by flowers and palms,
stands a fine monument of Christopher Columbus; who, it will be remembered,
was a native of the city. Genoa is full of stirring activity.
If you have gone there from
some of the quieter towns along
the Riviera, you will feel a
change in spirit. You are inclined
to move a little faster.
Things are happening all the
time. There is much to be
seen, and all that you see tells
a story of years of vigorous,
successful civic life. The most
notable physical features of
Genoa are its fine medieval
churches and its many splendid
sixteenth century palaces.
GENOA
Houses in the old town near the port. The
old town is a network of narrow and steep
streets; but the newer quarters have broad
and straight thoroughfares.
CAMPO SANTO, GENOA
This cemetery was laid out by Resasco in 1844-51. The central point
is a rotunda, with a dome borne by columns of black marble.
Follow up the Via Garibaldi,
a magnificent street with many beautiful palaces on both sides. To
vary the impressions of fine architectural display take a ride in the
tramway up to San Nicolo (nee-ko-lo´) and Castellaccio (cahs-tel-ah´-cho),
where you will find yourself over a thousand feet high, and
commanding a superb view of the Bisagno (bih-sahn´-yo) Valley and
the Campo Santo (kahm´-po sahn´-to) below you. The cemetery called
Campo Santo is one of the most interesting features of Genoa. It is
beautifully situated, and is filled with remarkable monuments, some of
them executed by the leading sculptors of Italy. In the burial spots of
the Genoese, as well as in the homes where they live, there is much of
luxury and elegance. In its business activities, its social life, its climate,
and its customs, Genoa
is attractive, and
holds the visitor there
for sometime content.
On the most beautiful
site in Europe
stands Naples, the
Neapolis of the Athenian
colonists. After
the Romans conquered
it, it still retained
Greek culture and institutions.
It became
the favorite summer
resort of the Romans,
and the delight of the poets Horace, Ovid, and Virgil. It was when
living in Naples that Virgil wrote his famous verses on agriculture,
the “Georgics.” After many vicissitudes Roger de Hauteville formed the
kingdom of Naples in 1130.
Medieval Naples is traceable
in its walls and great
gates. The Porta Capuana is
one of the best preserved.
NAPLES
The market street in the old quarter.
After the young Conradin
(kon´-rah-deen), the
last of the Norman dynasty
in Naples, was executed,
the country was ruled by
the house of Anjou (English,
an´-jo; French, ong-zho´),
then by the French
(Louis XII), and then by
Ferdinand of Spain. Don
Carlos improved the city
and surrounding country. In 1806 the city was invaded by Napoleon,
who established his government there for a short time. The Bourbon
(boor-bong´) rule came to an end in 1860, when Frances II was dethroned
by Garibaldi. From the time it was founded till the present day poor
Naples has been so torn to pieces by the many nations contesting for it
that there is but little left
of its ancient beauty or
grandeur, and it now depends
upon its wonderful
situation, which, with the
beautiful places about it,
holds the visitor enchanted.
PORTA CAPUANA, NAPLES
Capua Gate, one of the finest of Renaissance gateways, was built by the
Florentine Giuliano da Maiano, with sculptures by Giovanni da Nola.
There are travelers of
years of experience who
have declared that the site
and surroundings of Naples
are not excelled in beauty
anywhere in the world. You
enter the Bay of Naples
with the island of Ischia
(es´-kee-ah) on one side and on the other the island of Capri (kah´-pree).
Immediately before you lies Naples, stretching out from the water’s edge
up the hills beyond; the second largest city in Italy, with a population
of over five hundred thousand. Back of it and to the southeast is
Vesuvius. History has taught us to look with feelings of respect and
awe upon that smoke-crowned cone. On the shore, to the south, Herculaneum
(her-kew-lay´-nee-um) and Pompeii (pom-pay´-yee) are to be
seen, and as the coast curves out to the peninsula you come to Sorrento
(sore-ren´-to) and the road along the mountainside that takes
you on a scenic tour of
matchless beauty, including
Amalfi (ah-mahl´-fee),
Vietri (vee-ay´-tree),
and Salerno (sah-ler´-no).
The interest in Naples
is not only scenic, but
historic. It is not the
achievements of monarchs
nor the monuments
of artists that attract you.
In such matters Naples
is poorer than other towns
in Italy. But the relics
rescued from the explorations
in Herculaneum and
Pompeii afford an interest that is unique and compelling—an interest,
too, that is continually growing, for new discoveries are being made from
time to time.
Many are the scenic trips to be taken from Naples. It is a point
of departure for pleasure tourists in almost every direction. The ascent
of Mount Vesuvius is interesting; but that is the interest of curiosity.
Where visitors find the greatest happiness is in the trips to outlying
points, especially to the peninsula of Sorrento, to the island of Capri,
and to Amalfi and Ravello. It is at these points that we find the
greatest beauty of the Mediterranean. It seems indeed as if the great
inland sea and mankind had joined there to make a pleasure ground
beyond compare.
It is in and about Naples that the traveler will care to linger
longest. There is so much to be seen there—and, when satisfied
with pleasure jaunts and scenic trips, there is a serenity of life in
Naples, and a soft, sunny climate that, to repeat Byron’s words, “lend
to loneliness delight.” One friend of mine prolonged a trip, planned for
a week, until it filled out twelve months. There is much to interest and
delight one in all the seaport towns of the Mediterranean. After all has
been said of its varied shores, however, one is apt to conclude by giving
the palm of distinction in beauty and interest to Algiers, to Monte Carlo,
and to Naples with its environs.
NAPLES FROM THE BAY
SUPPLEMENTARY READING—“Mediterranean Winter Resorts,” E. Reynolds-Ball;
“Algeria and Tunis,” Frances E. Nesbitt; “The Barbary Coast,” H. M. Field;
“The Garden of Allah,” R. S. Hichens; “Servitude,” Irene Osgood; Burckhardt’s
“Cicerone,” translated by Mrs. A. H. Clough; “Afloat and Ashore on the Mediterranean,”
Lee Meriwether; “Mediterranean Trip,” N. Brooks; “Italian Cities,”
E. H. and E. W. Blashfield.
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