Yacht
‘Casco,’ Anaho Bay, Nukahiva,
Marquesas Islands [July 1888].
MY DEAR COLVIN,—From this
somewhat (ahem) out of the way place, I write to say how
d’ye do. It is all a swindle: I chose these isles as
having the most beastly population, and they are far better, and
far more civilised than we. I know one old chief Ko-o-amua,
a great cannibal in his day, who ate his enemies even as he
walked home from killing ’em, and he is a perfect gentleman
and exceedingly amiable and simple-minded: no fool, though.
The climate is delightful; and the harbour where we lie one of
the loveliest spots imaginable. Yesterday evening we had
near a score natives on board; lovely parties. We have a
native god; very rare now. Very rare and equally absurd to
view.
This sort of work is not favourable to correspondence: it
takes me all the little strength I have to go about and see, and
then come home and note, the strangeness around us. I
shouldn’t wonder if there came trouble here some day, all
the same. I could name a nation that is not beloved in
certain islands—and it does not know it! [114] Strange: like ourselves,
perhaps, in India! Love to all and much to yourself.
R. L. S.
Yacht
‘Casco,’ at sea, near the
Paumotus,
7 A.M., September
6th, 1888, with a dreadful pen.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—Last
night as I lay under my blanket in the cockpit, courting sleep, I
had a comic seizure. There was nothing visible but the
southern stars, and the steersman there out by the binnacle lamp;
we were all looking forward to a most deplorable landfall on the
morrow, praying God we should fetch a tuft of palms which
are to indicate the Dangerous Archipelago; the night was as warm
as milk, and all of a sudden I had a vision of—Drummond
Street. It came on me like a flash of lightning: I simply
returned thither, and into the past. And when I remember
all I hoped and feared as I pickled about Rutherford’s in
the rain and the east wind; how I feared I should make a mere
shipwreck, and yet timidly hoped not; how I feared I should never
have a friend, far less a wife, and yet passionately hoped I
might; how I hoped (if I did not take to drink) I should possibly
write one little book, etc. etc. And then now—what a
change! I feel somehow as if I should like the incident set
upon a brass plate at the corner of that dreary thoroughfare for
all students to read, poor devils, when their hearts are
down. And I felt I must write one word to you. Excuse
me if I write little: when I am at sea, it gives me a headache;
when I am in port, I have my diary crying ‘Give,
give.’ I shall have a fine book of travels, I feel
sure; and will tell you more of the South Seas after very few
months than any other writer has done—except Herman
Melville perhaps, who is a howling cheese. Good luck to
you, God bless you.—Your affectionate friend,
R. L. S.
Fakarava, Low
Archipelago, September 21st, 1888.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—Only a
word. Get out your big atlas, and imagine a straight line
from San Francisco to Anaho, the N.E. corner of Nukahiva, one of
the Marquesas Islands; imagine three weeks there: imagine a
day’s sail on August 12th round the eastern end of the
island to Tai-o-hae, the capital; imagine us there till August
22nd: imagine us skirt the east side of Ua-pu—perhaps
Rona-Poa on your atlas—and through the Bondelais straits to
Taaka-uku in Hiva-Oa, where we arrive on the 23rd; imagine us
there until September 4th, when we sailed for Fakarava, which we
reached on the 9th, after a very difficult and dangerous passage
among these isles. Tuesday, we shall leave for Taiti, where
I shall knock off and do some necessary work ashore. It
looks pretty bald in the atlas; not in fact; nor I trust in the
130 odd pages of diary which I have just been looking up for
these dates: the interest, indeed, has been incredible: I
did not dream there were such places or such races. My
health has stood me splendidly; I am in for hours wading over the
knees for shells; I have been five hours on horseback: I have
been up pretty near all night waiting to see where the
Casco would go ashore, and with my diary all
ready—simply the most entertaining night of my life.
Withal I still have colds; I have one now, and feel pretty sick
too; but not as at home: instead of being in bed, for instance, I
am at this moment sitting snuffling and writing in an undershirt
and trousers; and as for colour, hands, arms, feet, legs, and
face, I am browner than the berry: only my trunk and the
aristocratic spot on which I sit retain the vile whiteness of the
north.
Please give my news and kind love to Henley, Henry James, and
any whom you see of well-wishers. Accept from me the very
best of my affection: and believe me ever yours,
The Old Man
Virulent.
Taiti, October
7th, 1888.
Never having found a chance to send this off, I may add more
of my news. My cold took a very bad turn, and I am pretty
much out of sorts at this particular, living in a little bare
one-twentieth-furnished house, surrounded by mangoes, etc.
All the rest are well, and I mean to be soon. But these
Taiti colds are very severe and, to children, often fatal; so
they were not the thing for me. Yesterday the brigantine
came in from San Francisco, so we can get our letters off
soon. There are in Papeete at this moment, in a little
wooden house with grated verandahs, two people who love you very
much, and one of them is
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Taiti, as ever was,
6th October 1888.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—. . . You
will receive a lot of mostly very bad proofs of photographs: the
paper was so bad. Please keep them very private, as they
are for the book. We send them, having learned so dread a
fear of the sea, that we wish to put our eggs in different
baskets. We have been thrice within an ace of being ashore:
we were lost (!) for about twelve hours in the Low Archipelago,
but by God’s blessing had quiet weather all the time; and
once, in a squall, we cam’ so near gaun heels ower hurdies,
that I really dinnae ken why we didnae athegither. Hence,
as I say, a great desire to put our eggs in different baskets,
particularly on the Pacific (aw-haw-haw) Pacific Ocean.
You can have no idea what a mean time we have had, owing to
incidental beastlinesses, nor what a glorious, owing to the
intrinsic interest of these isles. I hope the book will be
a good one; nor do I really very much doubt that—the stuff
is so curious; what I wonder is, if the public will rise to
it. A copy of my journal, or as much of it as is made,
shall go to you also; it is, of course, quite imperfect, much
being to be added and corrected; but O, for the eggs in the
different baskets.
All the rest are well enough, and all have enjoyed the cruise
so far, in spite of its drawbacks. We have had an awfae
time in some ways, Mr. Baxter; and if I wasnae sic a verra
patient man (when I ken that I have to be) there wad hae
been a braw row; and ance if I hadnae happened to be on deck
about three in the marnin’, I think there would have
been murder done. The American Mairchant Marine is a
kent service; ye’ll have heard its praise, I’m
thinkin’; an’ if ye never did, ye can get Twa
Years Before the Mast, by Dana, whaur forbye a great deal
o’ pleisure, ye’ll get a’ the needcessary
information. Love to your father and all the
family.—Ever your affectionate friend,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Taiti, October
10th, 1888.
DEAR GIVER,—I am at a loss
to conceive your object in giving me to a person so locomotory as
my proprietor. The number of thousand miles that I have
travelled, the strange bed-fellows with which I have been made
acquainted, I lack the requisite literary talent to make clear to
your imagination. I speak of bed-fellows; pocket-fellows
would be a more exact expression, for the place of my abode is in
my master’s righthand trouser-pocket; and there, as he
waded on the resounding beaches of Nukahiva, or in the shallow
tepid water on the reef of Fakarava, I have been overwhelmed by
and buried among all manner of abominable South Sea shells,
beautiful enough in their way, I make no doubt, but singular
company for any self-respecting paper-cutter. He, my
master—or as I more justly call him, my bearer; for
although I occasionally serve him, does not he serve me daily and
all day long, carrying me like an African potentate on my
subject’s legs?—he is delighted with these
isles, and this climate, and these savages, and a variety of
other things. He now blows a flageolet with singular
effects: sometimes the poor thing appears stifled with shame,
sometimes it screams with agony; he pursues his career with
truculent insensibility. Health appears to reign in the
party. I was very nearly sunk in a squall. I am sorry
I ever left England, for here there are no books to be had, and
without books there is no stable situation for, dear Giver, your
affectionate
Wooden
Paper-Cutter.
A neighbouring pair of scissors snips a kiss in your
direction.
Taiti, October
16th, 1888.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—The
cruiser for San Francisco departs to-morrow morning bearing you
some kind of a scratch. This much more important packet
will travel by way of Auckland. It contains a ballant; and
I think a better ballant than I expected ever to do. I can
imagine how you will wag your pow over it; and how ragged you
will find it, etc., but has it not spirit all the same? and
though the verse is not all your fancy painted it, has it not
some life? And surely, as narrative, the thing has
considerable merit! Read it, get a typewritten copy taken,
and send me that and your opinion to the Sandwiches. I know
I am only courting the most excruciating mortification; but the
real cause of my sending the thing is that I could bear to go
down myself, but not to have much MS. go down with me. To say truth,
we are through the most dangerous; but it has left in all minds a
strong sense of insecurity, and we are all for putting eggs in
various baskets.
We leave here soon, bound for Uahiva, Reiatea, Bora-Bora, and
the Sandwiches.
O, how my spirit languishes
To step ashore on the Sanguishes;
For there my letters wait,
There shall I know my fate.
O, how my spirit languidges
To step ashore on the Sanguidges.
18th.—I think we shall leave here if all is well
on Monday. I am quite recovered, astonishingly recovered.
It must be owned these climates and this voyage have given me
more strength than I could have thought possible. And yet
the sea is a terrible place, stupefying to the mind and poisonous
to the temper, the sea, the motion, the lack of space, the cruel
publicity, the villainous tinned foods, the sailors, the captain,
the passengers—but you are amply repaid when you sight an
island, and drop anchor in a new world. Much trouble has
attended this trip, but I must confess more pleasure. Nor
should I ever complain, as in the last few weeks, with the curing
of my illness indeed, as if that were the bursting of an abscess,
the cloud has risen from my spirits and to some degree from my
temper. Do you know what they called the Casco at
Fakarava? The Silver Ship. Is that not
pretty? Pray tell Mrs. Jenkin, die silberne Frau, as
I only learned it since I wrote her. I think of calling the
book by that name: The Cruise of the Silver Ship—so
there will be one poetic page at least—the title. At
the Sandwiches we shall say farewell to the S. S. with
mingled feelings. She is a lovely creature: the most
beautiful thing at this moment in Taiti.
Well, I will take another sheet, though I know I have nothing
to say. You would think I was bursting: but the voyage is
all stored up for the book, which is to pay for it, we fondly
hope; and the troubles of the time are not worth telling; and our
news is little.
Here I conclude (Oct. 24th, I think), for we are now stored,
and the Blue Peter metaphorically flies.
R. L. S.
Taiti, October
17th, 1888.
DEAR ARCHER,—Though quite
unable to write letters, I nobly send you a line signifying
nothing. The voyage has agreed well with all; it has had
its pains, and its extraordinary pleasures; nothing in the world can equal
the excitement of the first time you cast anchor in some bay of a
tropical island, and the boats begin to surround you, and the
tattooed people swarm aboard. Tell Tomarcher, with my
respex, that hide-and-seek is not equal to it; no, nor
hidee-in-the-dark; which, for the matter of that, is a game for
the unskilful: the artist prefers daylight, a good-sized garden,
some shrubbery, an open paddock, and—come on, Macduff.
Tomarcher, I am now a distinguished
litterytour, but that was not the real bent of my genius. I
was the best player of hide-and-seek going; not a good runner, I
was up to every shift and dodge, I could jink very well, I could
crawl without any noise through leaves, I could hide under a
carrot plant, it used to be my favourite boast that I always
walked into the den. You may care to hear,
Tomarcher, about the children in these parts; their parents obey
them, they do not obey their parents; and I am sorry to tell you
(for I dare say you are already thinking the idea a good one)
that it does not pay one halfpenny. There are three sorts
of civilisation, Tomarcher: the real old-fashioned one, in which
children either had to find out how to please their dear papas,
or their dear papas cut their heads off. This style did
very well, but is now out of fashion. Then the modern
European style: in which children have to behave reasonably well,
and go to school and say their prayers, or their dear papas
will know the reason why. This does fairly
well. Then there is the South Sea Island plan, which does
not do one bit. The children beat their parents here; it
does not make their parents any better; so do not try it.
Dear Tomarcher, I have forgotten the address of your new
house, but will send this to one of your papa’s
publishers. Remember us all to all of you, and believe me,
yours respectably,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Tautira (The Garden of the
World), otherwise called
Hans-Christian-Andersen-ville [November 1888].
MY DEAR CHARLES,—Whether I
have a penny left in the wide world, I know not, nor shall know,
till I get to Honolulu, where I anticipate a devil of an
awakening. It will be from a mighty pleasant dream at
least: Tautira being mere Heaven. But suppose, for the sake
of argument, any money to be left in the hands of my painful
doer, what is to be done with it? Save us from exile would
be the wise man’s choice, I suppose; for the exile
threatens to be eternal. But yet I am of opinion—in
case there should be some dibs in the hand of the P.D.,
i.e. painful doer; because if there be none, I shall take
to my flageolet on the high-road, and work home the best way I
can, having previously made away with my family—I am of
opinion that if — and his are in the customary state, and
you are thinking of an offering, and there should be still some
funds over, you would be a real good P.D. to put some in with
yours and tak’ the credit o’t, like a wee man!
I know it’s a beastly thing to ask; but it, after all, does
no earthly harm, only that much good. And besides, like
enough there’s nothing in the till, and there is an
end. Yet I live here in the full lustre of millions; it is
thought I am the richest son of man that has yet been to Tautira:
I!—and I am secretly eaten with the fear of lying in pawn,
perhaps for the remainder of my days, in San Francisco. As
usual, my colds have much hashed my finances.
Do tell Henley I write this just after having dismissed Ori
the sub-chief, in whose house I live, Mrs. Ori, and Pairai, their
adopted child, from the evening hour of music:
during which I Publickly (with a k) Blow on the Flageolet.
These are words of truth. Yesterday I told Ori about W. E.
H., counterfeited his playing on the piano and the pipe, and
succeeded in sending the six feet four there is of that sub-chief
somewhat sadly to his bed; feeling that his was not the genuine
article after all. Ori is exactly like a colonel in the
Guards.—I am, dear Charles, ever yours affectionately,
R. L. S.
Tautira, 10th
November ’88.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—Our
mainmast is dry-rotten, and we are all to the devil; I shall lie
in a debtor’s jail. Never mind, Tautira is first
chop. I am so besotted that I shall put on the back of this
my attempt at words to Wandering Willie; if you can conceive at
all the difficulty, you will also conceive the vanity with which
I regard any kind of result; and whatever mine is like, it has
some sense, and Burns’s has none.
Home no more home to me, whither must I
wander?
Hunger my driver, I go where I must.
Cold blows the winter wind over hill and heather;
Thick drives the rain, and my roof is in the
dust.
Loved of wise men was the shade of my roof-tree.
The true word of welcome was spoken in the
door—
Dear days of old, with the faces in the firelight,
Kind folks of old, you come again no more.
Home was home then, my dear, full of kindly
faces,
Home was home then, my dear, happy for the child.
Fire and the windows bright glittered on the moorland;
Song, tuneful song, built a palace in the wild.
Now, when day dawns on the brow of the moorland,
Lone stands the house, and the chimney-stone is
cold.
Lone let it stand, now the friends are all departed,
The kind hearts, the true hearts, that loved the
place of old.
R. L. S.
November 11th
1888.
One November night, in the village of Tautira,
we sat at the high table in the hall of assembly,
hearing the natives sing. It was dark in the
hall, and very warm; though at times the land wind
blew a little shrewdly through the chinks, and at
times, through the larger openings, we could see
the moonlight on the lawn. As the songs arose in the
rattling Tahitian chorus, the chief translated here and
there a verse. Farther on in the volume you shall
read the songs themselves; and I am in hopes that not you
only, but all who can find a savour in the ancient poetry
of places, will read them with some pleasure.
You are to conceive us, therefore, in strange
circumstances and very pleasing; in a strange land and
climate, the most beautiful on earth; surrounded by
a foreign race that all travellers have agreed to be the most
engaging; and taking a double interest in two foreign
arts.
We came forth again at last, in a cloudy
moonlight, on the forest lawn which is the street of
Tautira. The Pacific roared outside upon the
reef. Here and there one of the scattered palm-built
lodges shone out under the shadow of the wood, the
lamplight bursting through the crannies of the wall.
We went homeward slowly, Ori a Ori carrying behind us
the lantern and the chairs, properties with which we had
just been enacting our part of the distinguished
visitor. It was one of those moments in which minds
not altogether churlish recall the names and deplore the absence
of congenial friends; and it was your name that first rose
upon our lips. ‘How Symonds would have enjoyed
this evening!’ said one, and then
another. The word caught in my mind; I went
to bed, and it was still there. The
glittering, frosty solitudes in which your days are cast
arose before me: I seemed to see you walking there in the
late night, under the pine-trees and the stars; and
I received the image with something like remorse.
There is a modern attitude towards fortune; in this
place I will not use a graver name. Staunchly to
withstand her buffets and to enjoy with equanimity her favours
was the code of the virtuous of old. Our
fathers, it should seem, wondered and doubted how
they had merited their misfortunes: we, rather how
we have deserved our happiness. And we stand often
abashed and sometimes revolted, at those partialities of
fate by which we profit most. It was so with me on
that November night: I felt that our positions should be
changed. It was you, dear Symonds, who
should have gone upon that voyage and written this
account. With your rich stores of knowledge,
you could have remarked and understood a thousand things of
interest and beauty that escaped my ignorance; and the
brilliant colours of your style would have carried into a
thousand sickrooms the sea air and the strong sun of tropic
islands. It was otherwise decreed. But
suffer me at least to connect you, if only in name and
only in the fondness of imagination, with the voyage of
the ‘Silver Ship.’
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
DEAR SYMONDS,—I send you
this (November 11th), the morning of its completion. If I
ever write an account of this voyage, may I place this letter at
the beginning? It represents—I need not tell you, for
you too are an artist—a most genuine feeling, which kept me
long awake last night; and though perhaps a little elaborate, I
think it a good piece of writing. We are in heaven
here. Do not forget
R. L. S.
Please keep this: I have no perfect copy.
Tautira, on the peninsula of Tahiti.
Tautira, Island of
Tahiti [November 1888].
DEAR TOMARCHER,—This is a
pretty state of things! seven o’clock and no word of
breakfast! And I was awake a good deal last night, for it
was full moon, and they had made a great fire of cocoa-nut husks
down by the sea, and as we have no blinds or shutters, this kept
my room very bright. And then the rats had a wedding or a
school-feast under my bed. And then I woke early, and I
have nothing to read except Virgil’s Æneid,
which is not good fun on an empty stomach, and a Latin
dictionary, which is good for naught, and by some humorous
accident, your dear papa’s article on Skerryvore. And
I read the whole of that, and very impudent it is, but you must
not tell your dear papa I said so, or it might come to a battle
in which you might lose either a dear papa or a valued
correspondent, or both, which would be prodigal. And still
no breakfast; so I said ‘Let’s write to
Tomarcher.’
This is a much better place for children than any I have
hitherto seen in these seas. The girls (and sometimes the
boys) play a very elaborate kind of hopscotch. The boys
play horses exactly as we do in Europe; and have very good fun on
stilts, trying to knock each other down, in which they do not
often succeed. The children of all ages go to church and
are allowed to do what they please, running about the aisles,
rolling balls, stealing mamma’s bonnet and publicly sitting
on it, and at last going to sleep in the middle of the
floor. I forgot to say that the whips to play horses, and
the balls to roll about the church—at least I never saw
them used elsewhere—grow ready made on trees; which is
rough on toy-shops. The whips are so good that I wanted to
play horses myself; but no such luck! my hair is grey, and I am a
great, big, ugly man. The balls are rather hard, but very
light and quite round. When you grow up and become
offensively rich, you can charter a ship in the port of London,
and have it come back to you entirely loaded with these balls;
when you could satisfy your mind as to their character, and give
them away when done with to your uncles and aunts. But what
I really wanted to tell you was this: besides the tree-top toys
(Hush-a-by, toy-shop, on the tree-top!), I have seen some real
made toys, the first hitherto observed in the South
Seas.
This was how. You are to imagine a four-wheeled gig; one
horse; in the front seat two Tahiti natives, in their Sunday
clothes, blue coat, white shirt, kilt (a little longer than the
Scotch) of a blue stuff with big white or yellow flowers, legs
and feet bare; in the back seat me and my wife, who is a friend
of yours; under our feet, plenty of lunch and things: among us a
great deal of fun in broken Tahitian, one of the natives, the
sub-chief of the village, being a great ally of mine.
Indeed we have exchanged names; so that he is now called Rui, the
nearest they can come to Louis, for they have no l and no
s in their language. Rui is six feet three in his
stockings, and a magnificent man. We all have straw hats,
for the sun is strong. We drive between the sea, which
makes a great noise, and the mountains; the road is cut through a
forest mostly of fruit trees, the very creepers, which take the
place of our ivy, heavy with a great and delicious fruit, bigger
than your head and far nicer, called Barbedine. Presently
we came to a house in a pretty garden, quite by itself, very
nicely kept, the doors and windows open, no one about, and no
noise but that of the sea. It looked like a house in a
fairy-tale, and just beyond we must ford a river, and there we
saw the inhabitants. Just in the mouth of the river, where
it met the sea waves, they were ducking and bathing and screaming
together like a covey of birds: seven or eight little naked brown
boys and girls as happy as the day was long; and on the banks of
the stream beside them, real toys—toy ships, full rigged,
and with their sails set, though they were lying in the dust on
their beam ends. And then I knew for sure they were all
children in a fairy-story, living alone together in that lonely
house with the only toys in all the island; and that I had myself
driven, in my four-wheeled gig, into a corner of the fairy-story,
and the question was, should I get out again? But it was
all right; I guess only one of the wheels of the gig had got into
the fairy-story; and the next jolt the whole thing vanished, and
we drove on in our sea-side forest as before, and I have the
honour to be Tomarcher’s valued correspondent, Teriitepa, which he was previously known
as
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Yacht
‘Casco,’ at Sea, 14th
January, 1889.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—Twenty
days out from Papeete. Yes, sir, all that, and only (for a
guess) in 4° north or at the best 4° 30′, though
already the wind seems to smell a little of the North Pole.
My handwriting you must take as you get, for we are speeding
along through a nasty swell, and I can only keep my place at the
table by means of a foot against the divan, the unoccupied hand
meanwhile gripping the ink-bottle. As we begin (so very
slowly) to draw near to seven months of correspondence, we are
all in some fear; and I want to have letters written before I
shall be plunged into that boiling pot of disagreeables which I
constantly expect at Honolulu. What is needful can be added
there.
We were kept two months at Tautira in the house of my dear old
friend, Ori a Ori, till both the masts of this invaluable yacht
had been repaired. It was all for the best: Tautira being
the most beautiful spot, and its people the most amiable, I have
ever found. Besides which, the climate suited me to the
ground; I actually went sea-bathing almost every day, and in our
feasts (we are all huge eaters in Taiarapu) have been known to
apply four times for pig. And then again I got wonderful
materials for my book, collected songs and legends on the spot;
songs still sung in chorus by perhaps a hundred persons, not two
of whom can agree on their translation; legends, on which I have
seen half a dozen seniors sitting in conclave and debating what
came next. Once I went a day’s journey to the other
side of the island to Tati, the high chief of the
Tevas—my chief that is, for I am now a Teva and
Teriitera, at your service—to collect more and correct what
I had already. In the meanwhile I got on with my work,
almost finished the Master of Ballantrae, which contains
more human work than anything of mine but Kidnapped, and
wrote the half of another ballad, the Song of Rahero, on a
Taiarapu legend of my own clan, sir—not so much fire as the
Feast of Famine, but promising to be more even and
correct. But the best fortune of our stay at Tautira was my
knowledge of Ori himself, one of the finest creatures
extant. The day of our parting was a sad one. We
deduced from it a rule for travellers: not to stay two months in
one place—which is to cultivate regrets.
At last our contemptible ship was ready; to sea we went, bound
for Honolulu and the letter-bag, on Christmas Day; and from then
to now have experienced every sort of minor misfortune, squalls,
calms, contrary winds and seas, pertinacious rains, declining
stores, till we came almost to regard ourselves as in the case of
Vanderdecken. Three days ago our luck seemed to improve, we
struck a leading breeze, got creditably through the doldrums, and
just as we looked to have the N.E. trades and a straight run, the
rains and squalls and calms began again about midnight, and this
morning, though there is breeze enough to send us along, we are
beaten back by an obnoxious swell out of the north. Here is
a page of complaint, when a verse of thanksgiving had perhaps
been more in place. For all this time we must have been
skirting past dangerous weather, in the tail and circumference of
hurricanes, and getting only annoyance where we should
have had peril, and ill-humour instead of fear.
I wonder if I have managed to give you any news this time, or
whether the usual damn hangs over my letter? ‘The
midwife whispered, Be thou dull!’ or at least
inexplicit. Anyway I have tried my best, am exhausted with
the effort, and fall back into the land of generalities. I
cannot tell you how often we have planned our arrival at the
Monument: two nights ago, the 12th January, we had it all planned
out, arrived in the lights and whirl of Waterloo, hailed a
hansom, span up Waterloo Road, over the bridge, etc. etc., and
hailed the Monument gate in triumph and with indescribable
delight. My dear Custodian, I always think we are too
sparing of assurances: Cordelia is only to be excused by Regan
and Goneril in the same nursery; I wish to tell you that the
longer I live, the more dear do you become to me; nor does my
heart own any stronger sentiment. If the bloody schooner
didn’t send me flying in every sort of direction at the
same time, I would say better what I feel so much; but really, if
you were here, you would not be writing letters, I believe; and
even I, though of a more marine constitution, am much perturbed
by this bobbery and wish—O ye Gods, how I wish!—that
it was done, and we had arrived, and I had Pandora’s Box
(my mail bag) in hand, and was in the lively hope of something
eatable for dinner instead of salt horse, tinned mutton, duff
without any plums, and pie fruit, which now make up our whole
repertory. O Pandora’s Box! I wonder what you
will contain. As like as not you will contain but little
money: if that be so, we shall have to retire to ’Frisco in
the Casco, and thence by sea via Panama to
Southampton, where we should arrive in April. I would like
fine to see you on the tug: ten years older both of us than the
last time you came to welcome Fanny and me to England. If
we have money, however, we shall do a little differently: send
the Casco away from Honolulu empty of its high-born
lessees, for that voyage to ’Frisco is one long dead beat
in foul and at last in cold weather; stay awhile behind, follow
by steamer, cross the States by train, stay awhile in New York on
business, and arrive probably by the German Line in
Southampton. But all this is a question of money. We
shall have to lie very dark awhile to recruit our finances: what
comes from the book of the cruise, I do not want to touch until
the capital is repaid.
R. L. S.
Honolulu, January
1889.
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—Here
at last I have arrived. We could not get away from Tahiti
till Christmas Day, and then had thirty days of calms and
squalls, a deplorable passage. This has thrown me all out
of gear in every way. I plunge into business.
1. The Master: Herewith go three more
parts. You see he grows in balk; this making ten already,
and I am not yet sure if I can finish it in an eleventh; which
shall go to you quam primum—I hope by next mail.
2. Illustrations to M. I totally forgot to
try to write to Hole. It was just as well, for I find it
impossible to forecast with sufficient precision. You had
better throw off all this and let him have it at once.
Please do: all, and at once: see
further; and I should hope he would still be in time for the
later numbers. The three pictures I have received are so
truly good that I should bitterly regret having the volume
imperfectly equipped. They are the best illustrations I
have seen since I don’t know when.
3. Money. To-morrow the mail comes in, and
I hope it will bring me money either from you or home, but I will
add a word on that point.
4. My address will be Honolulu—no longer Yacht
Casco, which I am packing off—till probably
April.
5. As soon as I am through with The
Master, I shall finish the Game of Bluff—now
rechristened The Wrong Box. This I wish to sell,
cash down. It is of course copyright in the States; and I
offer it to you for five thousand dollars. Please reply on
this by return. Also please tell the typewriter who was so
good as to be amused by our follies that I am filled with
admiration for his piece of work.
6. Master again. Please see that I
haven’t the name of the Governor of New York wrong (1764 is
the date) in part ten. I have no book of reference to put
me right. Observe you now have up to August inclusive in
hand, so you should begin to feel happy.
Is this all? I wonder, and fear not. Henry the
Trader has not yet turned up: I hope he may to-morrow, when we
expect a mail. Not one word of business have I received
either from the States or England, nor anything in the shape of
coin; which leaves me in a fine uncertainty and quite penniless
on these islands. H.M. [132] (who is a
gentleman of a courtly order and much tinctured with letters) is
very polite; I may possibly ask for the position of palace
doorkeeper. My voyage has been a singular mixture of good
and ill-fortune. As far as regards interest and material,
the fortune has been admirable; as far as regards time, money,
and impediments of all kinds, from squalls and calms to rotten
masts and sprung spars, simply detestable. I hope you will
be interested to hear of two volumes on the wing. The
cruise itself, you are to know, will make a big volume with
appendices; some of it will first appear as (what they call)
letters in some of M’Clure’s papers. I believe
the book when ready will have a fair measure of serious interest:
I have had great fortune in finding old songs and ballads and
stories, for instance, and have many singular instances of life
in the last few years among these islands.
The second volume is of ballads. You know
Ticonderoga. I have written another: The Feast
of Famine, a Marquesan story. A third is half done:
The Song of Rahero, a genuine Tahitian legend. A
fourth dances before me. A Hawaiian fellow this, The
Priest’s Drought, or some such name. If, as I
half suspect, I get enough subjects out of the islands,
Ticonderoga shall be suppressed, and we’ll call the
volume South Sea Ballads. In health, spirits,
renewed interest in life, and, I do believe, refreshed capacity
for work, the cruise has proved a wise folly. Still
we’re not home, and (although the friend of a crowned head)
are penniless upon these (as one of my correspondents used to
call them) ‘lovely but fatil islands.’
By the way, who wrote the Lion of the Nile? My dear
sir, that is Something Like. Overdone in bits, it has a
true thought and a true ring of language. Beg the anonymous
from me, to delete (when he shall republish) the two last verses,
and end on ‘the lion of the Nile.’ One Lampman
has a good sonnet on a ‘Winter Evening’ in, I think,
the same number: he seems ill named, but I am tempted to hope a
man is not always answerable for his name. [133] For instance, you would think
you knew mine. No such matter. It is—at your
service and Mr. Scribner’s and that of all of the
faithful—Teriitera (pray pronounce Tayree-Tayra) or
(gallicé) Téri-téra.
R. L. S.
More when the mail shall come.
I am an idiot. I want to be clear on one point.
Some of Hole’s drawings must of course be too late; and yet
they seem to me so excellent I would fain have the lot
complete. It is one thing for you to pay for drawings which
are to appear in that soul-swallowing machine, your magazine:
quite another if they are only to illustrate a volume. I
wish you to take a brisk (even a fiery) decision on the point;
and let Hole know. To resume my desultory song, I desire you
would carry the same fire (hereinbefore suggested) into your
decision on the Wrong Box; for in my present state of
benighted ignorance as to my affairs for the last seven
months—I know not even whether my house or my
mother’s house have been let—I desire to see
something definite in front of me—outside the lot of palace
doorkeeper. I believe the said Wrong Box is a real
lark; in which, of course, I may be grievously deceived; but the
typewriter is with me. I may also be deceived as to the
numbers of The Master now going and already gone; but to
me they seem First Chop, sir, First Chop. I hope I shall
pull off that damned ending; but it still depresses me: this is
your doing, Mr. Burlingame: you would have it there and then, and
I fear it—I fear that ending.
R. L. S.
Honolulu, February
8th, 1889.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—Here we
are at Honolulu, and have dismissed the yacht, and lie here till
April anyway, in a fine state of haze, which I am yet in hopes
some letter of yours (still on the way) may dissipate. No
money, and not one word as to money! However, I have got
the yacht paid off in triumph, I think; and though we stay here
impignorate, it should not be for long, even if you bring us no
extra help from home. The cruise has been a great success,
both as to matter, fun, and health; and yet, Lord, man!
we’re pleased to be ashore! Yon was a very fine
voyage from Tahiti up here, but—the dry land’s a fine
place too, and we don’t mind squalls any longer, and eh,
man, that’s a great thing. Blow, blow, thou wintry
wind, thou hast done me no appreciable harm beyond a few grey
hairs! Altogether, this foolhardy venture is achieved; and
if I have but nine months of life and any kind of health, I shall
have both eaten my cake and got it back again with usury.
But, man, there have been days when I felt guilty, and
thought I was in no position for the head of a house.
Your letter and accounts are doubtless at S. F., and will
reach me in course. My wife is no great shakes; she is the
one who has suffered most. My mother has had a Huge Old
Time; Lloyd is first chop; I so well that I do not know
myself—sea-bathing, if you please, and what is far more
dangerous, entertaining and being entertained by His Majesty
here, who is a very fine intelligent fellow, but O, Charles! what
a crop for the drink! He carries it, too, like a mountain
with a sparrow on its shoulders. We calculated five bottles
of champagne in three hours and a half (afternoon), and the
sovereign quite presentable, although perceptibly more dignified
at the end. . . .
The extraordinary health I enjoy and variety of interests I
find among these islands would tempt me to remain here; only for
Lloyd, who is not well placed in such countries for a permanency;
and a little for Colvin, to whom I feel I owe a sort of filial
duty. And these two considerations will no doubt bring me
back—to go to bed again—in England.—Yours ever
affectionately,
R. L. S.
Honolulu, Hawaiian
Islands, February 1889.
MY DEAR BOB,—My extremely
foolhardy venture is practically over. How foolhardy it was
I don’t think I realised. We had a very small
schooner, and, like most yachts, over-rigged and over-sparred,
and like many American yachts on a very dangerous sail
plan. The waters we sailed in are, of course, entirely
unlighted, and very badly charted; in the Dangerous Archipelago,
through which we were fools enough to go, we were perfectly in
ignorance of where we were for a whole night and half the next
day, and this in the midst of invisible islands and rapid and
variable currents; and we were lucky when we found our
whereabouts at last. We have twice had all we wanted in the
way of squalls: once, as I came on deck, I found the green sea
over the cockpit coamings and running down the companion like a
brook to meet me; at that same moment the foresail sheet jammed
and the captain had no knife; this was the only occasion on the
cruise that ever I set a hand to a rope, but I worked like a
Trojan, judging the possibility of hæmorrhage better than
the certainty of drowning. Another time I saw a rather
singular thing: our whole ship’s company as pale as paper
from the captain to the cook; we had a black squall astern on the
port side and a white squall ahead to starboard; the complication
passed off innocuous, the black squall only fetching us with its
tail, and the white one slewing off somewhere else. Twice
we were a long while (days) in the close vicinity of hurricane
weather, but again luck prevailed, and we saw none of it.
These are dangers incident to these seas and small craft.
What was an amazement, and at the same time a powerful stroke of
luck, both our masts were rotten, and we found it out—I was
going to say in time, but it was stranger and luckier than
that. The head of the mainmast hung over so that hands were
afraid to go to the helm; and less than three weeks
before—I am not sure it was more than a fortnight—we
had been nearly twelve hours beating off the lee shore of Eimeo
(or Moorea, next island to Tahiti) in half a gale of wind with a
violent head sea: she would neither tack nor wear once, and had
to be boxed off with the mainsail—you can imagine what an
ungodly show of kites we carried—and yet the mast
stood. The very day after that, in the southern bight of
Tahiti, we had a near squeak, the wind suddenly coming calm; the
reefs were close in with, my eye! what a surf! The pilot
thought we were gone, and the captain had a boat cleared, when a
lucky squall came to our rescue. My wife, hearing the order given
about the boats, remarked to my mother, ‘Isn’t that
nice? We shall soon be ashore!’ Thus does the
female mind unconsciously skirt along the verge of
eternity. Our voyage up here was most
disastrous—calms, squalls, head sea, waterspouts of rain,
hurricane weather all about, and we in the midst of the hurricane
season, when even the hopeful builder and owner of the yacht had
pronounced these seas unfit for her. We ran out of food,
and were quite given up for lost in Honolulu: people had ceased
to speak to Belle [137] about the
Casco, as a deadly subject.
But the perils of the deep were part of the programme; and
though I am very glad to be done with them for a while and
comfortably ashore, where a squall does not matter a snuff to any
one, I feel pretty sure I shall want to get to sea again ere
long. The dreadful risk I took was financial, and
double-headed. First, I had to sink a lot of money in the
cruise, and if I didn’t get health, how was I to get it
back? I have got health to a wonderful extent; and as I
have the most interesting matter for my book, bar accidents, I
ought to get all I have laid out and a profit. But, second
(what I own I never considered till too late), there was the
danger of collisions, of damages and heavy repairs, of
disablement, towing, and salvage; indeed, the cruise might have
turned round and cost me double. Nor will this danger be
quite over till I hear the yacht is in San Francisco; for though
I have shaken the dust of her deck from my feet, I fear (as a
point of law) she is still mine till she gets there.
From my point of view, up to now the cruise has been a
wonderful success. I never knew the world was so
amusing. On the last voyage we had grown so used to
sea-life that no one wearied, though it lasted a full month,
except Fanny, who is always ill. All the time our visits to the
islands have been more like dreams than realities: the people,
the life, the beachcombers, the old stories and songs I have
picked up, so interesting; the climate, the scenery, and (in some
places) the women, so beautiful. The women are handsomest
in Tahiti, the men in the Marquesas; both as fine types as can be
imagined. Lloyd reminds me, I have not told you one
characteristic incident of the cruise from a semi-naval point of
view. One night we were going ashore in Anaho Bay; the most
awful noise on deck; the breakers distinctly audible in the
cabin; and there I had to sit below, entertaining in my best
style a negroid native chieftain, much the worse for rum!
You can imagine the evening’s pleasure.
This naval report on cruising in the South Seas would be
incomplete without one other trait. On our voyage up here I
came one day into the dining-room, the hatch in the floor was
open, the ship’s boy was below with a baler, and two of the
hands were carrying buckets as for a fire; this meant that the
pumps had ceased working.
One stirring day was that in which we sighted Hawaii. It
blew fair, but very strong; we carried jib, foresail, and
mainsail, all single-reefed, and she carried her lee rail under
water and flew. The swell, the heaviest I have ever been
out in—I tried in vain to estimate the height, at
least fifteen feet—came tearing after us about a point
and a half off the wind. We had the best hand—old
Louis—at the wheel; and, really, he did nobly, and had
noble luck, for it never caught us once. At times it seemed
we must have it; Louis would look over his shoulder with the
queerest look and dive down his neck into his shoulders; and then
it missed us somehow, and only sprays came over our quarter,
turning the little outside lane of deck into a mill race as deep
as to the cockpit coamings. I never remember anything more
delightful and exciting. Pretty soon after we were lying
absolutely becalmed under the lee of Hawaii, of which we had been
warned; and the captain never confessed he had done it on purpose,
but when accused, he smiled. Really, I suppose he did quite
right, for we stood committed to a dangerous race, and to bring
her to the wind would have been rather a heart-sickening
manœuvre.
R. L. S.
Honolulu, Sandwich
Islands, February 8th, 1889.
DEAR SIR,—I thank
you—from the midst of such a flurry as you can imagine,
with seven months’ accumulated correspondence on my
table—for your two friendly and clever letters. Pray
write me again. I shall be home in May or June, and not
improbably shall come to Paris in the summer. Then we can
talk; or in the interval I may be able to write, which is to-day
out of the question. Pray take a word from a man of
crushing occupations, and count it as a volume. Your little
conte is delightful. Ah yes, you are right, I love
the eighteenth century; and so do you, and have not listened to
its voice in vain.—The Hunted One,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Honolulu, 8th
March 1889.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—At last I
have the accounts: the Doer has done excellently, and in the
words of —, ‘I reciprocate every step of your
behaviour.’ . . I send a letter for Bob in your care,
as I don’t know his Liverpool address, by which (for he is
to show you part of it) you will see we have got out of this
adventure—or hope to have—with wonderful
fortune. I have the retrospective horrors on me when I
think of the liabilities I incurred; but, thank God, I think
I’m in port again, and I have found one climate in which I can
enjoy life. Even Honolulu is too cold for me; but the south
isles were a heaven upon earth to a puir, catarrhal party like
Johns’one. We think, as Tahiti is too complete a
banishment, to try Madeira. It’s only a week from
England, good communications, and I suspect in climate and
scenery not unlike our dear islands; in people, alas! there can
be no comparison. But friends could go, and I could come in
summer, so I should not be quite cut off.
Lloyd and I have finished a story, The Wrong Box.
If it is not funny, I am sure I do not know what is. I have
split over writing it. Since I have been here, I have been
toiling like a galley slave: three numbers of The Master
to rewrite, five chapters of the Wrong Box to write and
rewrite, and about five hundred lines of a narrative poem to
write, rewrite, and re-rewrite. Now I have The
Master waiting me for its continuation, two numbers more;
when that’s done, I shall breathe. This spasm of
activity has been chequered with champagne parties: Happy and
Glorious, Hawaii Ponoi paua: kou moi—(Native Hawaiians,
dote upon your monarch!) Hawaiian God save the King. (In
addition to my other labours, I am learning the language with a
native moonshee.) Kalakaua is a terrible companion; a
bottle of fizz is like a glass of sherry to him, he thinks
nothing of five or six in an afternoon as a whet for
dinner. You should see a photograph of our party after an
afternoon with H. H. M.: my! what a crew!—Yours ever
affectionately,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Honolulu [March
1889].
MY DEAR JAMES,—Yes—I
own up—I am untrue to friendship and (what is less, but
still considerable) to civilisation. I am not coming home
for another year. There it is, cold and bald, and now you
won’t believe in me at all, and serve me right (says
you) and the devil take me. But look here, and judge me
tenderly. I have had more fun and pleasure of my life these
past months than ever before, and more health than any time in
ten long years. And even here in Honolulu I have withered
in the cold; and this precious deep is filled with islands, which
we may still visit; and though the sea is a deathful place, I
like to be there, and like squalls (when they are over); and to
draw near to a new island, I cannot say how much I like. In
short, I take another year of this sort of life, and mean to try
to work down among the poisoned arrows, and mean (if it may be)
to come back again when the thing is through, and converse with
Henry James as heretofore; and in the meanwhile issue directions
to H. J. to write to me once more. Let him address here at
Honolulu, for my views are vague; and if it is sent here it will
follow and find me, if I am to be found; and if I am not to be
found the man James will have done his duty, and we shall be at
the bottom of the sea, where no post-office clerk can be expected
to discover us, or languishing on a coral island, the philosophic
drudges of some barbarian potentate: perchance, of an American
Missionary. My wife has just sent to Mrs. Sitwell a
translation (tant bien que mal) of a letter I have had
from my chief friend in this part of the world: go and see her,
and get a hearing of it; it will do you good; it is a better
method of correspondence than even Henry James’s. [141] I jest, but seriously it is a strange
thing for a tough, sick, middle-aged scrivener like R. L. S. to
receive a letter so conceived from a man fifty years old, a
leading politician, a crack orator, and the great wit of his
village: boldly say, ‘the highly popular M.P. of
Tautira.’ My nineteenth century strikes here, and
lies alongside of something beautiful and ancient. I think
the receipt of such a letter might humble, shall I say even
—? and for me, I would rather have received it than written
Redgauntlet or the Sixth Æneid. All
told, if my books have enabled or helped me to make this voyage,
to know Rui, and to have received such a letter, they have (in
the old prefatorial expression) not been writ in vain. It
would seem from this that I have been not so much humbled as
puffed up; but, I assure you, I have in fact been both. A
little of what that letter says is my own earning; not all, but
yet a little; and the little makes me proud, and all the rest
ashamed; and in the contrast, how much more beautiful altogether
is the ancient man than him of to-day!
Well, well, Henry James is pretty good, though he is of
the nineteenth century, and that glaringly. And to curry
favour with him, I wish I could be more explicit; but, indeed, I
am still of necessity extremely vague, and cannot tell what I am
to do, nor where I am to go for some while yet.
As soon as I am sure, you shall hear. All are fairly
well—the wife, your countrywoman, least of all; troubles
are not entirely wanting; but on the whole we prosper, and we are
all affectionately yours,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Honolulu, April
2nd, 1889.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—I am
beginning to be ashamed of writing on to you without the least
acknowledgment, like a tramp; but I do not care—I am
hardened; and whatever be the cause of your silence, I mean to
write till all is blue. I am outright ashamed of my news,
which is that we are not coming home for another year. I
cannot but hope it may continue the vast improvement of my
health: I think it good for Fanny and Lloyd; and we have all a
taste for this wandering and dangerous life. My mother I
send home, to my relief, as this part of our cruise will be (if
we can carry it out) rather difficult in places. Here is
the idea: about the middle of June (unless the Boston Board
objects) we sail from Honolulu in the missionary ship
(barquentine auxiliary steamer) Morning Star: she takes us
through the Gilberts and Marshalls, and drops us (this is my
great idea) on Ponape, one of the volcanic islands of the
Carolines. Here we stay marooned among a doubtful
population, with a Spanish vice-governor and five native kings,
and a sprinkling of missionaries all at loggerheads, on the
chance of fetching a passage to Sydney in a trader, a labour
ship, or (maybe, but this appears too bright) a ship of
war. If we can’t get the Morning Star (and the
Board has many reasons that I can see for refusing its
permission) I mean to try to fetch Fiji, hire a schooner there,
do the Fijis and Friendlies, hit the course of the
Richmond at Tonga Tabu, make back by Tahiti, and so to S.
F., and home: perhaps in June 1890. For the latter part of
the cruise will likely be the same in either case. You can see for
yourself how much variety and adventure this promises, and that
it is not devoid of danger at the best; but if we can pull it off
in safety, gives me a fine book of travel, and Lloyd a fine
lecture and diorama, which should vastly better our finances.
I feel as if I were untrue to friendship; believe me, Colvin,
when I look forward to this absence of another year, my
conscience sinks at thought of the Monument; but I think you will
pardon me if you consider how much this tropical weather mends my
health. Remember me as I was at home, and think of me
sea-bathing and walking about, as jolly as a sandboy: you will
own the temptation is strong; and as the scheme, bar fatal
accidents, is bound to pay into the bargain, sooner or later, it
seems it would be madness to come home now, with an imperfect
book, no illustrations to speak of, no diorama, and perhaps fall
sick again by autumn. I do not think I delude myself when I
say the tendency to catarrh has visibly diminished.
It is a singular tiring that as I was packing up old papers
ere I left Skerryvore, I came on the prophecies of a drunken
Highland sibyl, when I was seventeen. She said I was to be
very happy, to visit America, and to be much upon the
sea. It seems as if it were coming true with a
vengeance. Also, do you remember my strong, old, rooted
belief that I shall die by drowning? I don’t want
that to come true, though it is an easy death; but it occurs to
me oddly, with these long chances in front. I cannot say
why I like the sea; no man is more cynically and constantly alive
to its perils; I regard it as the highest form of gambling; and
yet I love the sea as much as I hate gambling. Fine, clean
emotions; a world all and always beautiful; air better than wine;
interest unflagging; there is upon the whole no better
life.—Yours ever,
R. L. S.
[Honolulu, April
1889.]
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—This
is to announce the most prodigious change of programme. I
have seen so much of the South Seas that I desire to see more,
and I get so much health here that I dread a return to our vile
climates. I have applied accordingly to the missionary folk
to let me go round in the Morning Star; and if the Boston
Board should refuse, I shall get somehow to Fiji, hire a trading
schooner, and see the Fijis and Friendlies and Samoa. He
would be a South Seayer, Mr. Burlingame. Of course, if I go
in the Morning Star, I see all the eastern (or western?)
islands.
Before I sail, I shall make out to let you have the last of
The Master: though I tell you it sticks!—and I hope
to have had some proofs forbye, of the verses anyway. And
now to business.
I want (if you can find them) in the British sixpenny edition,
if not, in some equally compact and portable shape—Seaside
Library, for instance—the Waverley Novels entire, or as
entire as you can get ’em, and the following of Marryat:
Phantom Ship, Peter Simple, Percival Keene,
Privateersman, Children of the New Forest, Frank
Mildmay, Newton Forster, Dog Fiend
(Snarleyyow). Also Midshipman Easy,
Kingsburn, Carlyle’s French Revolution,
Motley’s Dutch Republic, Lang’s Letters on
Literature, a complete set of my works, Jenkin, in
duplicate; also Familiar Studies, ditto.
I have to thank you for the accounts, which are satisfactory
indeed, and for the cheque for $1000. Another account will
have come and gone before I see you. I hope it will be
equally roseate in colour. I am quite worked out, and this
cursed end of The Master hangs over me like the arm of the
gallows; but it is always darkest before dawn, and no doubt the
clouds will soon rise; but it is a difficult thing to write, above all
in Mackellarese; and I cannot yet see my way clear. If I
pull this off, The Master will be a pretty good novel or I
am the more deceived; and even if I don’t pull it off,
it’ll still have some stuff in it.
We shall remain here until the middle of June anyway; but my
mother leaves for Europe early in May. Hence our mail
should continue to come here; but not hers. I will let you
know my next address, which will probably be Sydney. If we
get on the Morning Star, I propose at present to get
marooned on Ponape, and take my chance of getting a passage to
Australia. It will leave times and seasons mighty vague,
and the cruise is risky; but I shall know something of the South
Seas when it is done, or else the South Seas will contain all
there is of me. It should give me a fine book of travels,
anyway.
Low will probably come and ask some dollars of you. Pray
let him have them, they are for outfit. O, another complete
set of my books should go to Captain A. H. Otis, care of Dr.
Merritt, Yacht Casco, Oakland, Cal. In haste,
R. L. S.
Honolulu, April
6th, 1889.
MY DEAR MISS
BOODLE,—Nobody writes a better letter than my
Gamekeeper: so gay, so pleasant, so engagingly particular,
answering (by some delicate instinct) all the questions she
suggests. It is a shame you should get such a poor return
as I can make, from a mind essentially and originally incapable
of the art epistolary. I would let the paper-cutter take my
place; but I am sorry to say the little wooden seaman did after
the manner of seamen, and deserted in the Societies. The
place he seems to have stayed at—seems, for his absence was
not observed till we were near the Equator—was Tautira,
and, I assure you, he displayed good taste, Tautira being as
‘nigh hand heaven’ as a paper-cutter or anybody has a
right to expect.
I
think all our friends will be very angry with us, and I give the
grounds of their probable displeasure bluntly—we are not
coming home for another year. My mother returns next
month. Fanny, Lloyd, and I push on again among the islands
on a trading schooner, the Equator—first for the
Gilbert group, which we shall have an opportunity to explore
thoroughly; then, if occasion serve, to the Marshalls and
Carolines; and if occasion (or money) fail, to Samoa, and back to
Tahiti. I own we are deserters, but we have excuses.
You cannot conceive how these climates agree with the wretched
house-plant of Skerryvore: he wonders to find himself
sea-bathing, and cutting about the world loose, like a grown-up
person. They agree with Fanny too, who does not suffer from
her rheumatism, and with Lloyd also. And the interest of
the islands is endless; and the sea, though I own it is a
fearsome place, is very delightful. We had applied for
places in the American missionary ship, the Morning Star,
but this trading schooner is a far preferable idea, giving us
more time and a thousandfold more liberty; so we determined to
cut off the missionaries with a shilling.
The Sandwich Islands do not interest us very much; we live
here, oppressed with civilisation, and look for good things in
the future. But it would surprise you if you came out
to-night from Honolulu (all shining with electric lights, and all
in a bustle from the arrival of the mail, which is to carry you
these lines) and crossed the long wooden causeway along the
beach, and came out on the road through Kapiolani park, and
seeing a gate in the palings, with a tub of gold-fish by the
wayside, entered casually in. The buildings stand in three
groups by the edge of the beach, where an angry little spitfire
sea continually spirts and thrashes with impotent irascibility,
the big seas breaking further out upon the reef. The first
is a small house, with a very large summer parlour, or
lanai, as they call it here, roofed, but practically
open. There you will find the lamps burning and the family
sitting
about the table, dinner just done: my mother, my wife, Lloyd,
Belle, my wife’s daughter, Austin her child, and to-night
(by way of rarity) a guest. All about the walls our South
Sea curiosities, war clubs, idols, pearl shells, stone axes,
etc.; and the walls are only a small part of a lanai, the rest
being glazed or latticed windows, or mere open space. You
will see there no sign of the Squire, however; and being a person
of a humane disposition, you will only glance in over the balcony
railing at the merry-makers in the summer parlour, and proceed
further afield after the Exile. You look round, there is
beautiful green turf, many trees of an outlandish sort that drop
thorns—look out if your feet are bare; but I beg your
pardon, you have not been long enough in the South Seas—and
many oleanders in full flower. The next group of buildings
is ramshackle, and quite dark; you make out a coach-house door,
and look in—only some cocoanuts; you try round to the left
and come to the sea front, where Venus and the moon are making
luminous tracks on the water, and a great swell rolls and shines
on the outer reef; and here is another door—all these
places open from the outside—and you go in, and find
photography, tubs of water, negatives steeping, a tap, and a
chair and an inkbottle, where my wife is supposed to write; round
a little further, a third door, entering which you find a picture
upon the easel and a table sticky with paints; a fourth door
admits you to a sort of court, where there is a hen
sitting—I believe on a fallacious egg. No sign of the
Squire in all this. But right opposite the studio door you
have observed a third little house, from whose open door
lamplight streams and makes hay of the strong moonlight
shadows. You had supposed it made no part of the grounds,
for a fence runs round it lined with oleander; but as the Squire
is nowhere else, is it not just possible he may be here? It
is a grim little wooden shanty; cobwebs bedeck it; friendly mice
inhabit its recesses; the mailed cockroach walks upon the wall;
so also,
I regret to say, the scorpion. Herein are two pallet beds,
two mosquito curtains, strung to the pitch-boards of the roof,
two tables laden with books and manuscripts, three chairs, and,
in one of the beds, the Squire busy writing to yourself, as it
chances, and just at this moment somewhat bitten by
mosquitoes. He has just set fire to the insect powder, and
will be all right in no time; but just now he contemplates large
white blisters, and would like to scratch them, but knows
better. The house is not bare; it has been inhabited by
Kanakas, and—you know what children are!—the bare
wood walls are pasted over with pages from the Graphic,
Harper’s Weekly, etc. The floor is matted, and
I am bound to say the matting is filthy. There are two
windows and two doors, one of which is condemned; on the panels
of that last a sheet of paper is pinned up, and covered with
writing. I cull a few plums:—
‘A duck-hammock for each person.
A patent organ like the commandant’s at Taiohae.
Cheap and bad cigars for presents.
Revolvers.
Permanganate of potass.
Liniment for the head and sulphur.
Fine tooth-comb.’
What do you think this is? Simply life in the South Seas
foreshortened. These are a few of our desiderata for the
next trip, which we jot down as they occur.
There, I have really done my best and tried to send something
like a letter—one letter in return for all your
dozens. Pray remember us all to yourself, Mrs. Boodle, and
the rest of your house. I do hope your mother will be
better when this comes. I shall write and give you a new
address when I have made up my mind as to the most probable, and
I do beg you will continue to write from time to time and give us
airs from home. To-morrow—think of it—I must be
off by a quarter to eight to drive in to the palace and breakfast
with his Hawaiian Majesty at 8.30: I shall be dead indeed. Please
give my news to Scott, I trust he is better; give him my warm
regards. To you we all send all kinds of things, and I am
the absentee Squire,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Honolulu, April
1889.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—As usual,
your letter is as good as a cordial, and I thank you for it, and
all your care, kindness, and generous and thoughtful friendship,
from my heart. I was truly glad to hear a word of Colvin,
whose long silence has terrified me; and glad to hear that you
condoned the notion of my staying longer in the South Seas, for I
have decided in that sense. The first idea was to go in the
Morning Star, missionary ship; but now I have found a
trading schooner, the Equator, which is to call for me
here early in June and carry us through the Gilberts. What
will happen then, the Lord knows. My mother does not
accompany us: she leaves here for home early in May, and you will
hear of us from her; but not, I imagine, anything more
definite. We shall get dumped on Butaritari, and whether we
manage to go on to the Marshalls and Carolines, or whether we
fall back on Samoa, Heaven must decide; but I mean to fetch back
into the course of the Richmond—(to think you
don’t know what the Richmond is!—the steamer
of the Eastern South Seas, joining New Zealand, Tongatabu, the
Samoas, Taheite, and Rarotonga, and carrying by last advices
sheep in the saloon!)—into the course of the
Richmond and make Taheite again on the home track.
Would I like to see the Scots Observer?
Wouldn’t I not? But whaur? I’m direckit
at space. They have nae post offishes at the Gilberts, and
as for the Car’lines! Ye see, Mr. Baxter, we’re
no just in the punkshewal centre o’
civ’lisation. But pile them up for me, and when
I’ve decided on an address, I’ll let you ken, and
ye’ll can send them stavin’ after me.—Ever your
affectionate,
R. L. S.
Honolulu, 10th
May 1889.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—I am
appalled to gather from your last just to hand that you have felt
so much concern about the letter. Pray dismiss it from your
mind. But I think you scarce appreciate how disagreeable it
is to have your private affairs and private unguarded expressions
getting into print. It would soon sicken any one of writing
letters. I have no doubt that letter was very wisely
selected, but it just shows how things crop up. There was a
raging jealousy between the two yachts; our captain was nearly in
a fight over it. However, no more; and whatever you think,
my dear fellow, do not suppose me angry with you or —;
although I was annoyed at the circumstance—a very
different thing. But it is difficult to conduct life by
letter, and I continually feel I may be drifting into some matter
of offence, in which my heart takes no part.
I must now turn to a point of business. This new cruise
of ours is somewhat venturesome; and I think it needful to warn
you not to be in a hurry to suppose us dead. In these
ill-charted seas, it is quite on the cards we might be cast on
some unvisited, or very rarely visited, island; that there we
might lie for a long time, even years, unheard of; and yet turn
up smiling at the hinder end. So do not let me be
‘rowpit’ till you get some certainty we have gone to
Davie Jones in a squall, or graced the feast of some barbarian in
the character of Long Pig.
I
have just been a week away alone on the lee coast of Hawaii, the
only white creature in many miles, riding five and a half hours
one day, living with a native, seeing four lepers shipped off to
Molokai, hearing native causes, and giving my opinion as
amicus curiæ as to the interpretation of a statute
in English; a lovely week among God’s best—at least
God’s sweetest works—Polynesians. It has
bettered me greatly. If I could only stay there the time
that remains, I could get my work done and be happy; but the care
of my family keeps me in vile Honolulu, where I am always out of
sorts, amidst heat and cold and cesspools and beastly
haoles. [152] What is a haole? You are
one; and so, I am sorry to say, am I. After so long a dose
of whites, it was a blessing to get among Polynesians again even
for a week.
Well, Charles, there are waur haoles than yoursel’,
I’ll say that for ye; and trust before I sail I shall get
another letter with more about yourself.—Ever your
affectionate friend
R. L. S.
Honolulu, (about)
20th May ’89.
MY DEAR LOW,—. . . The
goods have come; many daughters have done virtuously, but thou
excellest them all.—I have at length finished The
Master; it has been a sore cross to me; but now he is buried,
his body’s under hatches,—his soul, if there is any
hell to go to, gone to hell; and I forgive him: it is harder to
forgive Burlingame for having induced me to begin the
publication, or myself for suffering the induction.—Yes, I
think Hole has done finely; it will be one of the most adequately
illustrated books of our generation; he gets the note, he
tells the story—my story: I know only one
failure—the Master standing on the beach.—You must
have a letter for me at Sydney—till further notice.
Remember me to Mrs. Will. H., the godlike sculptor, and any of
the faithful. If you want to cease to be a republican, see
my little Kaiulani, as she goes through—but she is gone
already. You will die a red, I wear the colours of that
little royal maiden, Nous allons chanter à la
ronde, si vous voulez! only she is not blonde by
several chalks, though she is but a half-blood, and the wrong
half Edinburgh Scots like mysel’. But, O Low, I love
the Polynesian: this civilisation of ours is a dingy,
ungentlemanly business; it drops out too much of man, and too
much of that the very beauty of the poor beast: who has his
beauties in spite of Zola and Co. As usual, here is a whole
letter with no news: I am a bloodless, inhuman dog; and no doubt
Zola is a better correspondent.—Long live your fine old
English admiral—yours, I mean—the U.S.A. one at
Samoa; I wept tears and loved myself and mankind when I read of
him: he is not too much civilised. And there was Gordon,
too; and there are others, beyond question. But if you
could live, the only white folk, in a Polynesian village; and
drink that warm, light vin du pays of human affection, and
enjoy that simple dignity of all about you—I will not gush,
for I am now in my fortieth year, which seems highly unjust, but
there it is, Mr. Low, and the Lord enlighten your
affectionate
R. L. S.
Kalawao, Molokai
[May 1889].
DEAR FANNY,—I had a lovely
sail up. Captain Cameron and Mr. Gilfillan, both born in
the States, yet the first still with a strong Highland, and the
second still with a strong Lowland accent, were good company; the
night was warm, the victuals plain but good. Mr. Gilfillan
gave me his berth, and I slept well, though I heard the sisters
sick in the next stateroom, poor souls. Heavy rolling woke
me in the morning; I turned in all standing, so went right on the
upper deck. The day was on the peep out of a low morning
bank, and we were wallowing along under stupendous cliffs.
As the lights brightened, we could see certain abutments and
buttresses on their front where wood clustered and grass grew
brightly. But the whole brow seemed quite impassable, and
my heart sank at the sight. Two thousand feet of rock
making 19° (the Captain guesses) seemed quite beyond my
powers. However, I had come so far; and, to tell you the
truth, I was so cowed with fear and disgust that I dared not go
back on the adventure in the interests of my own
self-respect. Presently we came up with the leper
promontory: lowland, quite bare and bleak and harsh, a little
town of wooden houses, two churches, a landing-stair, all
unsightly, sour, northerly, lying athwart the sunrise, with the
great wall of the pali cutting the world out on the south.
Our lepers were sent on the first boat, about a dozen, one poor
child very horrid, one white man, leaving a large grown family
behind him in Honolulu, and then into the second stepped the
sisters and myself. I do not know how it would have been
with me had the sisters not been there. My horror of the
horrible is about my weakest point; but the moral loveliness at
my elbow blotted all else out; and when I found that one of them
was crying, poor soul, quietly under her veil, I cried a little
myself; then I felt as right as a trivet, only a little crushed
to be there so uselessly. I thought it was a sin and a
shame she should feel unhappy; I turned round to her, and said
something like this: ‘Ladies, God Himself is here to give
you welcome. I’m sure it is good for me to be beside
you; I hope it will be blessed to me; I thank you for myself and
the good you do me.’ It seemed to cheer her up; but
indeed I had scarce said it when we were at the landing-stairs,
and there was a great crowd, hundreds of (God save us!) pantomime
masks in poor human flesh, waiting to receive the sisters and the
new patients.
Every hand was offered: I had gloves, but I had made up my
mind on the boat’s voyage not to give my hand; that
seemed less offensive than the gloves. So the sisters and I
went up among that crew, and presently I got aside (for I felt I
had no business there) and set off on foot across the promontory,
carrying my wrap and the camera. All horror was quite gone
from me: to see these dread creatures smile and look happy was
beautiful. On my way through Kalaupapa I was exchanging
cheerful alohas with the patients coming galloping over on
their horses; I was stopping to gossip at house-doors; I was
happy, only ashamed of myself that I was here for no good.
One woman was pretty, and spoke good English, and was infinitely
engaging and (in the old phrase) towardly; she thought I was the
new white patient; and when she found I was only a visitor, a
curious change came in her face and voice—the only sad
thing, morally sad, I mean—that I met that morning.
But for all that, they tell me none want to leave. Beyond
Kalaupapa the houses became rare; dry stone dykes, grassy, stony
land, one sick pandanus; a dreary country; from overhead in the
little clinging wood shogs of the pali chirruping of birds fell;
the low sun was right in my face; the trade blew pure and cool
and delicious; I felt as right as ninepence, and stopped and
chatted with the patients whom I still met on their horses, with
not the least disgust. About half-way over, I met the
superintendent (a leper) with a horse for me, and O, wasn’t
I glad! But the horse was one of those curious, dogged,
cranky brutes that always dully want to go somewhere else, and my
traffic with him completed my crushing fatigue. I got to
the guest-house, an empty house with several rooms, kitchen, bath,
etc. There was no one there, and I let the horse go loose
in the garden, lay down on the bed, and fell asleep.
Dr. Swift woke me and gave me breakfast, then I came back and
slept again while he was at the dispensary, and he woke me for
dinner; and I came back and slept again, and he woke me about six
for supper; and then in about an hour I felt tired again, and
came up to my solitary guest-house, played the flageolet, and am
now writing to you. As yet, you see, I have seen nothing of
the settlement, and my crushing fatigue (though I believe that
was moral and a measure of my cowardice) and the doctor’s
opinion make me think the pali hopeless. ‘You
don’t look a strong man,’ said the doctor; ‘but
are you sound?’ I told him the truth; then he said it
was out of the question, and if I were to get up at all, I must
be carried up. But, as it seems, men as well as horses
continually fall on this ascent: the doctor goes up with a change
of clothes—it is plain that to be carried would in itself
be very fatiguing to both mind and body; and I should then be at
the beginning of thirteen miles of mountain road to be ridden
against time. How should I come through? I hope you
will think me right in my decision: I mean to stay, and shall not
be back in Honolulu till Saturday, June first. You must all
do the best you can to make ready.
Dr. Swift has a wife and an infant son, beginning to toddle
and run, and they live here as composed as brick and
mortar—at least the wife does, a Kentucky German, a fine
enough creature, I believe, who was quite amazed at the sisters
shedding tears! How strange is mankind! Gilfillan
too, a good fellow I think, and far from a stupid, kept up his
hard Lowland Scottish talk in the boat while the sister was
covering her face; but I believe he knew, and did it (partly) in
embarrassment, and part perhaps in mistaken kindness. And
that was one reason, too, why I made my speech to them.
Partly, too, I did it, because I was ashamed to do so, and
remembered one of my golden rules, ‘When you are
ashamed to speak, speak up at once.’ But, mind you,
that rule is only golden with strangers; with your own folks,
there are other considerations. This is a strange place to
be in. A bell has been sounded at intervals while I wrote,
now all is still but a musical humming of the sea, not unlike the
sound of telegraph wires; the night is quite cool and pitch dark,
with a small fine rain; one light over in the leper settlement,
one cricket whistling in the garden, my lamp here by my bedside,
and my pen cheeping between my inky fingers.
Next day, lovely morning, slept all night, 80° in the
shade, strong, sweet Anaho trade-wind.
Louis.
Honolulu, June
1889.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—I am just
home after twelve days journey to Molokai, seven of them at the
leper settlement, where I can only say that the sight of so much
courage, cheerfulness, and devotion strung me too high to mind
the infinite pity and horror of the sights. I used to ride
over from Kalawao to Kalaupapa (about three miles across the
promontory, the cliff-wall, ivied with forest and yet
inaccessible from steepness, on my left), go to the
Sisters’ home, which is a miracle of neatness, play a game
of croquet with seven leper girls (90° in the shade), got a
little old-maid meal served me by the Sisters, and ride home
again, tired enough, but not too tired. The girls have all
dolls, and love dressing them. You who know so many ladies
delicately clad, and they who know so many dressmakers, please
make it known it would be an acceptable gift to send scraps for
doll dressmaking to the Reverend Sister Maryanne, Bishop Home,
Kalaupapa, Molokai, Hawaiian Islands.
I have seen sights that cannot be told, and heard stories that cannot
be repeated: yet I never admired my poor race so much, nor
(strange as it may seem) loved life more than in the
settlement. A horror of moral beauty broods over the place:
that’s like bad Victor Hugo, but it is the only way I can
express the sense that lived with me all these days. And
this even though it was in great part Catholic, and my sympathies
flew never with so much difficulty as towards Catholic
virtues. The pass-book kept with heaven stirs me to anger
and laughter. One of the sisters calls the place ‘the
ticket office to heaven.’ Well, what is the
odds? They do their darg and do it with kindness and
efficiency incredible; and we must take folk’s virtues as
we find them, and love the better part. Of old Damien,
whose weaknesses and worse perhaps I heard fully, I think only
the more. It was a European peasant: dirty, bigoted,
untruthful, unwise, tricky, but superb with generosity, residual
candour and fundamental good-humour: convince him he had done
wrong (it might take hours of insult) and he would undo what he
had done and like his corrector better. A man, with all the
grime and paltriness of mankind, but a saint and hero all the
more for that. The place as regards scenery is grand,
gloomy, and bleak. Mighty mountain walls descending sheer
along the whole face of the island into a sea unusually deep; the
front of the mountain ivied and furred with clinging forest, one
viridescent cliff: about half-way from east to west, the low,
bare, stony promontory edged in between the cliff and the ocean;
the two little towns (Kalawao and Kalaupapa) seated on either
side of it, as bare almost as bathing machines upon a beach; and
the population—gorgons and chimaeras dire. All this
tear of the nerves I bore admirably; and the day after I got
away, rode twenty miles along the opposite coast and up into the
mountains: they call it twenty, I am doubtful of the figures: I
should guess it nearer twelve; but let me take credit for what
residents allege; and I was riding again the day after, so I need
say no
more about health. Honolulu does not agree with me at all:
I am always out of sorts there, with slight headache, blood to
the head, etc. I had a good deal of work to do and did it
with miserable difficulty; and yet all the time I have been
gaining strength, as you see, which is highly encouraging.
By the time I am done with this cruise I shall have the material
for a very singular book of travels: names of strange stories and
characters, cannibals, pirates, ancient legends, old Polynesian
poetry,—never was so generous a farrago. I am going
down now to get the story of a shipwrecked family, who were
fifteen months on an island with a murderer: there is a
specimen. The Pacific is a strange place; the nineteenth
century only exists there in spots: all round, it is a no
man’s land of the ages, a stir-about of epochs and races,
barbarisms and civilisations, virtues and crimes.
It is good of you to let me stay longer, but if I had known
how ill you were, I should be now on my way home. I had
chartered my schooner and made all arrangements before (at last)
we got definite news. I feel highly guilty; I should be
back to insult and worry you a little. Our address till
further notice is to be c/o R. Towns and Co., Sydney. That
is final: I only got the arrangement made yesterday; but you may
now publish it abroad.—Yours ever,
R. L. S.
Honolulu, H.I.,
June 13th, 1889.
MY DEAR JAMES PAYN,—I get
sad news of you here at my offsetting for further voyages: I wish
I could say what I feel. Sure there was never any man less
deserved this calamity; for I have heard you speak time and
again, and I remember nothing that was unkind, nothing that
was untrue, nothing that was not helpful, from your lips.
It is the ill-talkers that should hear no more. God knows,
I know no word of consolation; but I do feel your trouble.
You are the more open to letters now; let me talk to you for two
pages. I have nothing but happiness to tell; and you may
bless God you are a man so sound-hearted that (even in the
freshness of your calamity) I can come to you with my own good
fortune unashamed and secure of sympathy. It is a good
thing to be a good man, whether deaf or whether dumb; and of all
our fellow-craftsmen (whom yet they count a jealous race), I
never knew one but gave you the name of honesty and kindness:
come to think of it gravely, this is better than the finest
hearing. We are all on the march to deafness, blindness,
and all conceivable and fatal disabilities; we shall not all get
there with a report so good. My good news is a health
astonishingly reinstated. This climate; these voyagings;
these landfalls at dawn; new islands peaking from the morning
bank; new forested harbours; new passing alarms of squalls and
surf; new interests of gentle natives,—the whole tale of my
life is better to me than any poem.
I am fresh just now from the leper settlement of Molokai,
playing croquet with seven leper girls, sitting and yarning with
old, blind, leper beachcombers in the hospital, sickened with the
spectacle of abhorrent suffering and deformation amongst the
patients, touched to the heart by the sight of lovely and
effective virtues in their helpers: no stranger time have I ever
had, nor any so moving. I do not think it a little thing to
be deaf, God knows, and God defend me from the same!—but to
be a leper, of one of the self-condemned, how much more awful!
and yet there’s a way there also. ‘There are
Molokais everywhere,’ said Mr. Dutton, Father
Damien’s dresser; you are but new landed in yours; and my
dear and kind adviser, I wish you, with all my soul, that
patience and courage which you will require. Think of me
meanwhile on a trading schooner, bound for the Gilbert Islands,
thereafter for the Marshalls, with a diet of fish and cocoanut
before me; bound on a cruise of—well, of investigation to
what islands we can reach, and to get (some day or other) to
Sydney, where a letter addressed to the care of R. Towns &
Co. will find me sooner or later; and if it contain any good
news, whether of your welfare or the courage with which you bear
the contrary, will do me good.—Yours affectionately
(although so near a stranger),
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Schooner
‘Equator,’ Apaiang Lagoon,
August 22nd, 1889.
MY DEAR COLVIN,—The
missionary ship is outside the reef trying (vainly) to get in; so
I may have a chance to get a line off. I am glad to say I
shall be home by June next for the summer, or we shall
know the reason why. For God’s sake be well and jolly
for the meeting. I shall be, I believe, a different
character from what you have seen this long while. This
cruise is up to now a huge success, being interesting, pleasant,
and profitable. The beachcomber is perhaps the most
interesting character here; the natives are very different, on
the whole, from Polynesians: they are moral, stand-offish (for
good reasons), and protected by a dark tongue. It is
delightful to meet the few Hawaiians (mostly missionaries) that
are dotted about, with their Italian brio and their ready
friendliness. The whites are a strange lot, many of them
good, kind, pleasant fellows; others quite the lowest I have ever
seen even in the slums of cities. I wish I had time to
narrate to you the doings and character of three white murderers
(more or less proven) I have met. One, the only undoubted
assassin of the lot, quite gained my affection in his big home
out of a wreck, with his New Hebrides wife in her savage turban
of hair and yet a perfect lady, and his three adorable little
girls in Rob Roy Macgregor dresses, dancing to the hand organ,
performing circus on the floor with startling effects of nudity,
and curling up together on a mat to sleep, three sizes, three
attitudes, three Rob Roy dresses, and six little clenched fists:
the murderer meanwhile brooding and gloating over his chicks,
till your whole heart went out to him; and yet his crime on the
face of it was dark: disembowelling, in his own house, an old man
of seventy, and him drunk.
It is lunch-time, I see, and I must close up with my warmest
love to you. I wish you were here to sit upon me when
required. Ah! if you were but a good sailor! I will
never leave the sea, I think; it is only there that a Briton
lives: my poor grandfather, it is from him I inherit the taste, I
fancy, and he was round many islands in his day; but I, please
God, shall beat him at that before the recall is sounded.
Would you be surprised to learn that I contemplate becoming a
shipowner? I do, but it is a secret. Life is far better fun
than people dream who fall asleep among the chimney stacks and
telegraph wires.
Love to Henry James and others near.—Ever yours, my dear
fellow,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Equator Town, Apemama,
October 1889.
No Morning Star came, however; and so now I try to send
this to you by the schooner J. L. Tiernan. We have
been about a month ashore, camping out in a kind of town the king
set up for us: on the idea that I was really a ‘big
chief’ in England. He dines with us sometimes, and
sends up a cook for a share of our meals when he does not come
himself. This sounds like high living! alas, undeceive
yourself. Salt junk is the mainstay; a low island, except
for cocoanuts, is just the same as a ship at sea: brackish water,
no supplies, and very little shelter. The king is a great
character—a thorough tyrant, very much of a gentleman, a
poet, a musician, a historian, or perhaps rather more a
genealogist—it is strange to see him lying in his house
among a lot of wives (nominal wives) writing the History of
Apemama in an account-book; his description of one of his own
songs, which he sang to me himself, as ‘about sweethearts,
and trees, and the sea—and no true, all-the-same
lie,’ seems about as compendious a definition of lyric
poetry as a man could ask. Tembinoka is here the great
attraction: all the rest is heat and tedium and villainous
dazzle, and yet more villainous mosquitoes. We are like to
be here, however, many a long week before we get away, and then
whither? A strange trade this voyaging: so vague, so
bound-down, so helpless. Fanny has been planting some
vegetables, and we have actually onions and radishes coming up:
ah, onion-despiser, were you but awhile in a low island, how your
heart would leap at sight of a coster’s barrow! I
think I could shed tears over a dish of turnips. No doubt
we shall all be glad to say farewell to low islands—I had near
said for ever. They are very tame; and I begin to read up
the directory, and pine for an island with a profile, a running
brook, or were it only a well among the rocks. The thought
of a mango came to me early this morning and set my greed on
edge; but you do not know what a mango is, so—.
I have been thinking a great deal of you and the Monument of
late, and even tried to get my thoughts into a poem, hitherto
without success. God knows how you are: I begin to weary
dreadfully to see you—well, in nine months, I hope; but
that seems a long time. I wonder what has befallen me too,
that flimsy part of me that lives (or dwindles) in the public
mind; and what has befallen The Master, and what kind of a
Box the Merry Box has been found. It is odd to know nothing
of all this. We had an old woman to do devil-work for you
about a month ago, in a Chinaman’s house on Apaiang (August
23rd or 24th). You should have seen the crone with a noble
masculine face, like that of an old crone [sic], a body
like a man’s (naked all but the feathery female girdle),
knotting cocoanut leaves and muttering spells: Fanny and I, and
the good captain of the Equator, and the Chinaman and his
native wife and sister-in-law, all squatting on the floor about
the sibyl; and a crowd of dark faces watching from behind her
shoulder (she sat right in the doorway) and tittering aloud with
strange, appalled, embarrassed laughter at each fresh
adjuration. She informed us you were in England, not
travelling and now no longer sick; she promised us a fair wind
the next day, and we had it, so I cherish the hope she was as
right about Sidney Colvin. The shipownering has rather
petered out since I last wrote, and a good many other plans
beside.
Health? Fanny very so-so; I pretty right upon the whole,
and getting through plenty work: I know not quite how, but it
seems to me not bad and in places funny.
South
Sea Yarns:
1. The Wrecker
2. The Pearl Fisher
3. The Beachcombers
by R. L. S. and Lloyd O.
The Pearl Fisher, part done, lies in Sydney. It
is The Wrecker we are now engaged upon: strange ways of
life, I think, they set forth: things that I can scarce touch
upon, or even not at all, in my travel book; and the yarns are
good, I do believe. The Pearl Fisher is for the
New York Ledger: the yarn is a kind of Monte Cristo
one. The Wrecker is the least good as a story, I
think; but the characters seem to me good. The
Beachcombers is more sentimental. These three scarce
touch the outskirts of the life we have been viewing; a hot-bed
of strange characters and incidents: Lord, how different from
Europe or the Pallid States! Farewell. Heaven knows
when this will get to you. I burn to be in Sydney and have
news.
R. L. S.
Schooner
‘Equator,’ at sea. 190 miles off
Samoa.
Monday, December 2nd, 1889
MY DEAR COLVIN,—We are
just nearing the end of our long cruise. Rain, calms,
squalls, bang—there’s the foretopmast gone; rain,
calm, squalls, away with the staysail; more rain, more calm, more
squalls; a prodigious heavy sea all the time, and the
Equator staggering and hovering like a swallow in a storm;
and the cabin, a great square, crowded with wet human beings, and
the rain avalanching on the deck, and the leaks dripping
everywhere: Fanny, in the midst of fifteen males, bearing up
wonderfully. But such voyages are at the best a
trial. We had one particularity: coming down on Winslow
Reef, p. d. (position doubtful): two positions in the directory,
a third (if you cared to count that) on the chart; heavy sea
running, and the night due. The boats were cleared, bread
put on board, and we made up our packets for a boat voyage of
four or five hundred miles, and turned in, expectant of a
crash. Needless to say it did not come, and no doubt we
were far to leeward. If we only had twopenceworth of wind,
we might be at dinner in Apia to-morrow evening; but no such
luck: here we roll, dead before a light air—and that is no
point of sailing at all for a fore and aft schooner—the sun
blazing overhead, thermometer 88°, four degrees above what I
have learned to call South Sea temperature; but for all that,
land so near, and so much grief being happily astern, we are all
pretty gay on board, and have been photographing and
draught-playing and sky-larking like anything. I am minded
to stay not very long in Samoa and confine my studies there (as
far as any one can forecast) to the history of the late
war. My book is now practically modelled: if I can execute
what is designed, there are few better books now extant on this
globe, bar the epics, and the big tragedies, and histories, and
the choice lyric poetics and a novel or so—none. But
it is not executed yet; and let not him that putteth on his
armour, vaunt himself. At least, nobody has had such stuff;
such wild stories, such beautiful scenes, such singular
intimacies, such manners and traditions, so incredible a mixture
of the beautiful and horrible, the savage and civilised. I
will give you here some idea of the table of contents, which
ought to make your mouth water. I propose to call the book
The South Seas: it is rather a large title, but not many
people have seen more of them than I, perhaps no
one—certainly no one capable of using the material.
Part
I. General. ‘Of schooners,
islands, and maroons.’
|
CHAPTER
|
I.
|
Marine.
|
|
II.
|
Contraband (smuggling, barratry, labour traffic).
|
|
III.
|
The Beachcomber.
|
|
IV.
|
Beachcomber stories. i. The Murder of the
Chinaman. ii. Death of a Beachcomber. iii. A
Character. iv. The Apia Blacksmith.
|
Part
II. The Marquesas.
|
|
V.
|
Anaho. i. Arrival. ii. Death. iii. The
Tapu. iv. Morals. v. Hoka.
|
|
VI.
|
Tai-o-hae. i. Arrival. ii. The French.
iii. The Royal Family. iv. Chiefless Folk. v. The
Catholics. vi. Hawaiian Missionaries.
|
|
VII.
|
Observations of a Long Pig. i. Cannibalism.
ii. Hatiheu. iii. Frère Michel. iv.
Toahauka and Atuona. v. The Vale of Atuona. vi.
Moipu. vii. Captain Hati.
|
Part
III. The Dangerous Archipelago.
|
|
VIII.
|
The Group.
|
|
IX.
|
A House to let in a Low Island.
|
|
X.
|
A Paumotuan Funeral. i. The Funeral. ii. Tales
of the Dead.
|
Part
IV. Tahiti.
|
|
XI.
|
Tautira.
|
|
XII.
|
Village Government in Tahiti.
|
|
XIII.
|
A Journey in Quest of Legends.
|
|
XIV.
|
Legends and Songs.
|
|
XV.
|
Life in Eden.
|
|
XVI.
|
Note on the French Regimen.
|
Part
V. The Eight Islands.
|
|
XVII.
|
A Note on Missions.
|
|
XVIII.
|
The Kona Coast of Hawaii. i. Hookena. ii. A
Ride in the Forest. iii. A Law Case. iv. The City of
Refuge. v. The Lepers.
|
|
XIX.
|
Molokai. i. A Week in the Precinct. ii.
History of the Leper Settlement. iii. The Mokolii.
iv. The Free Island.
|
Part
VI. The Gilberts.
|
|
XX.
|
The Group. ii. Position of Woman. iii. The
Missions. iv. Devilwork. v. Republics.
|
|
XXI.
|
Rule and Misrule on Makin. i. Butaritari, its King
and Court. ii. History of Three Kings. iii. The Drink
Question.
|
|
XXII.
|
A Butaritarian Festival.
|
|
XXIII.
|
The King of Apemama. i. First Impressions. ii.
Equator Town and the Palace. iii. The Three Corselets.
|
Part
VII. Samoa.
|
which I have not
yet reached.
|
Even as so sketched it makes sixty chapters, not less than 300
Cornhill pages; and I suspect not much under 500.
Samoa has yet to be accounted for: I think it will be all
history, and I shall work in observations on Samoan manners,
under the similar heads in other Polynesian islands. It is
still possible, though unlikely, that I may add a passing visit
to Fiji or Tonga, or even both; but I am growing impatient to see
yourself, and I do not want to be later than June of coming to
England. Anyway, you see it will be a large work, and as it
will be copiously illustrated, the Lord knows what it will
cost. We shall return, God willing, by Sydney, Ceylon, Suez
and, I guess, Marseilles the many-masted (copyright
epithet). I shall likely pause a day or two in Paris, but
all that is too far ahead—although now it begins to look
near—so near, and I can hear the rattle of the hansom up
Endell Street, and see the gates swing back, and feel myself jump
out upon the Monument steps—Hosanna!—home
again. My dear fellow, now that my father is done with his
troubles, and 17 Heriot Row no more than a mere shell, you and
that gaunt old Monument in Bloomsbury are all that I have in
view when I use the word home; some passing thoughts there may be
of the rooms at Skerryvore, and the black-birds in the chine on a
May morning; but the essence is S. C. and the Museum.
Suppose, by some damned accident, you were no more: well, I
should return just the same, because of my mother and Lloyd, whom
I now think to send to Cambridge; but all the spring would have
gone out of me, and ninety per cent. of the attraction
lost. I will copy for you here a copy of verses made in
Apemama.
I heard the pulse of the besieging sea
Throb far away all night. I heard the wind
Fly crying, and convulse tumultuous palms.
I rose and strolled. The isle was all bright sand,
And flailing fans and shadows of the palm:
The heaven all moon, and wind, and the blind vault—
The keenest planet slain, for Venus slept.
The King, my neighbour, with his host of wives,
Slept in the precinct of the palisade:
Where single, in the wind, under the moon,
Among the slumbering cabins, blazed a fire,
Sole street-lamp and the only sentinel.
To other lands and nights my fancy turned,
To London first, and chiefly to your house,
The many-pillared and the well-beloved.
There yearning fancy lighted; there again
In the upper room I lay and heard far off
The unsleeping city murmur like a shell;
The muffled tramp of the Museum guard
Once more went by me; I beheld again
Lamps vainly brighten the dispeopled street;
Again I longed for the returning morn,
The awaking traffic, the bestirring birds,
The consentaneous trill of tiny song
That weaves round monumental cornices
A passing charm of beauty: most of all,
For your
light foot I wearied, and your knock
That was the glad réveillé of my day.
Lo, now, when to your task in the great house
At morning through the portico you pass,
One moment glance where, by the pillared wall,
Far-voyaging island gods, begrimed with smoke,
Sit now unworshipped, the rude monument
Of faiths forgot and races undivined;
Sit now disconsolate, remembering well
The priest, the victim, and the songful crowd,
The blaze of the blue noon, and that huge voice
Incessant, of the breakers on the shore.
As far as these from their ancestral shrine,
So far, so foreign, your divided friends
Wander, estranged in body, not in mind.
R. L. S.
Schooner
‘Equator,’ at sea, Wednesday,
4th December 1889.
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—We are
now about to rise, like whales, from this long dive, and I make
ready a communication which is to go to you by the first mail
from Samoa. How long we shall stay in that group I cannot
forecast; but it will be best still to address at Sydney, where I
trust, when I shall arrive, perhaps in one month from now, more
probably in two or three, to find all news.
Business.—Will you be likely to have a space in
the Magazine for a serial story, which should be, ready, I
believe, by April, at latest by autumn? It is called The
Wrecker; and in book form will appear as number 1 of South
Sea Yarns by R. L. S. and Lloyd Osbourne. Here is the table
as far as fully conceived, and indeed executed. [170] . . .
The
story is founded on fact, the mystery I really believe to be
insoluble; the purchase of a wreck has never been handled before,
no more has San Francisco. These seem all elements of
success. There is, besides, a character, Jim Pinkerton, of
the advertising American, on whom we build a good deal; and some
sketches of the American merchant marine, opium smuggling in
Honolulu, etc. It should run to (about) three hundred pages
of my MS. I would like to
know if this tale smiles upon you, if you will have a vacancy,
and what you will be willing to pay. It will of course be
copyright in both the States and England. I am a little
anxious to have it tried serially, as it tests the interest of
the mystery.
Pleasure.—We have had a fine time in the Gilbert
group, though four months on low islands, which involves low
diet, is a largish order; and my wife is rather down. I am
myself, up to now, a pillar of health, though our long and vile
voyage of calms, squalls, cataracts of rain, sails carried away,
foretopmast lost, boats cleared and packets made on the approach
of a p. d. reef, etc., has cured me of salt brine, and filled me
with a longing for beef steak and mangoes not to be
depicted. The interest has been immense. Old King
Tembinoka of Apemama, the Napoleon of the group, poet, tyrant,
altogether a man of mark, gave me the woven corselets of his
grandfather, his father and his uncle, and, what pleased me more,
told me their singular story, then all manner of strange tales,
facts and experiences for my South Sea book, which should be a
Tearer, Mr. Burlingame: no one at least has had such stuff.
We are now engaged in the hell of a dead calm, the heat is
cruel—it is the only time when I suffer from heat: I have
nothing on but a pair of serge trousers, and a singlet without
sleeves of Oxford gauze—O, yes, and a red sash about my
waist; and yet as I sit here in the cabin, sweat streams from
me. The rest are on deck under a bit of awning; we are not
much above a hundred miles from port, and we might as well be in
Kamschatka. However, I should be honest: this is the first
calm I have endured without the added bane of a heavy swell, and
the intoxicated blue-bottle wallowings and knockings of the
helpless ship.
I wonder how you liked the end of The Master; that was
the hardest job I ever had to do; did I do it?
My wife begs to be remembered to yourself and Mrs.
Burlingame. Remember all of us to all friends, particularly
Low, in case I don’t get a word through for him.—I
am, yours very sincerely,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Samoa, [December
1889].
MY DEAR BAXTER,—. . . I
cannot return until I have seen either Tonga or Fiji or both: and
I must not leave here till I have finished my collections on the
war—a very interesting bit of history, the truth often very
hard to come at, and the search (for me) much complicated by the
German tongue, from the use of which I have desisted (I suppose)
these fifteen years. The last two days I have been mugging
with a dictionary from five to six hours a day; besides this, I
have to call upon, keep sweet, and judiciously interview all
sorts of persons—English, American, German, and
Samoan. It makes a hard life; above all, as after every
interview I have to come and get my notes straight on the
nail. I believe I should have got my facts before the end
of January, when I shall make our Tonga or Fiji. I am down
right in the hurricane season; but they had so bad a one last year, I
don’t imagine there will be much of an edition this.
Say that I get to Sydney some time in April, and I shall have
done well, and be in a position to write a very singular and
interesting book, or rather two; for I shall begin, I think, with
a separate opuscule on the Samoan Trouble, about as long as
Kidnapped, not very interesting, but valuable—and a
thing proper to be done. And then, hey! for the big South
Sea Book: a devil of a big one, and full of the finest sport.
This morning as I was going along to my breakfast a little
before seven, reading a number of Blackwood’s
Magazine, I was startled by a soft talofa, alii
(note for my mother: they are quite courteous here in the
European style, quite unlike Tahiti), right in my ear: it was
Mataafa coming from early mass in his white coat and white linen
kilt, with three fellows behind him. Mataafa is the nearest
thing to a hero in my history, and really a fine fellow; plenty
sense, and the most dignified, quiet, gentle manners.
Talking of Blackwood—a file of which I was lucky
enough to find here in the lawyer’s—Mrs. Oliphant
seems in a staggering state: from the Wrong Box to The
Master I scarce recognise either my critic or myself. I
gather that The Master should do well, and at least that
notice is agreeable reading. I expect to be home in June:
you will have gathered that I am pretty well. In addition
to my labours, I suppose I walk five or six miles a day, and
almost every day I ride up and see Fanny and Lloyd, who are in a
house in the bush with Ah Fu. I live in Apia for
history’s sake with Moors, an American trader. Day
before yesterday I was arrested and fined for riding fast in the
street, which made my blood bitter, as the wife of the manager of
the German Firm has twice almost ridden me down, and there seems
none to say her nay. The Germans have behaved pretty badly
here, but not in all ways so ill as you may have gathered: they
were doubtless much provoked; and if the insane Knappe had not
appeared upon the scene, might have got out of the muddle
with dignity. I write along without rhyme or reason, as
things occur to me.
I hope from my outcries about printing you do not think I want
you to keep my news or letters in a Blue Beard closet. I
like all friends to hear of me; they all should if I had ninety
hours in the day, and strength for all of them; but you must have
gathered how hard worked I am, and you will understand I go to
bed a pretty tired man.
29th December,
[1889].
To-morrow (Monday, I won’t swear to my day of the month;
this is the Sunday between Christmas and New Year) I go up the
coast with Mr. Clarke, one of the London Society missionaries, in
a boat to examine schools, see Tamasese, etc. Lloyd comes
to photograph. Pray Heaven we have good weather; this is
the rainy season; we shall be gone four or five days; and if the
rain keep off, I shall be glad of the change; if it rain, it will
be beastly. This explains still further how hard pressed I
am, as the mail will be gone ere I return, and I have thus lost
the days I meant to write in. I have a boy, Henry, who
interprets and copies for me, and is a great nuisance. He
said he wished to come to me in order to learn ‘long
expressions.’ Henry goes up along with us; and as I
am not fond of him, he may before the trip is over hear some
‘strong expressions.’ I am writing this on the
back balcony at Moors’, palms and a hill like the hill of
Kinnoull looking in at me; myself lying on the floor, and (like
the parties in Handel’s song) ‘clad in robes of
virgin white’; the ink is dreadful, the heat delicious, a
fine going breeze in the palms, and from the other side of the
house the sudden angry splash and roar of the Pacific on the
reef, where the warships are still piled from last year’s
hurricane, some under water, one high and dry upon her side, the
strangest figure of a ship was ever witnessed; the narrow bay
there is full of ships; the men-of-war covered with sail after
the rains, and (especially the German ship, which is fearfully and
awfully top heavy) rolling almost yards in, in what appears to be
calm water.
Samoa, Apia at least, is far less beautiful than the Marquesas
or Tahiti: a more gentle scene, gentler acclivities, a tamer face
of nature; and this much aided, for the wanderer, by the great
German plantations with their countless regular avenues of
palms. The island has beautiful rivers, of about the
bigness of our waters in the Lothians, with pleasant pools and
waterfalls and overhanging verdure, and often a great volume of
sound, so that once I thought I was passing near a mill, and it
was only the voice of the river. I am not specially
attracted by the people; but they are courteous; the women very
attractive, and dress lovely; the men purposelike, well set up,
tall, lean, and dignified. As I write the breeze is
brisking up, doors are beginning to slam: and shutters; a strong
draught sweeps round the balcony; it looks doubtful for
to-morrow. Here I shut up.—Ever your
affectionate,
R. L. Stevenson.
Apia, Samoa,
January 20th, 1890.
MY DEAR SCOTT,—Shameful
indeed that you should not have heard of me before! I have
now been some twenty months in the South Seas, and am (up to
date) a person whom you would scarce know. I think nothing
of long walks and rides: I was four hours and a half gone the
other day, partly riding, partly climbing up a steep
ravine. I have stood a six months’ voyage on a copra
schooner with about three months ashore on coral atolls, which
means (except for cocoanuts to drink) no change whatever from
ship’s food. My wife suffered badly—it was too
rough a business altogether—Lloyd suffered—and, in
short, I was the only one of the party who ‘kept my end
up.’
I am so pleased with this climate that I have decided to
settle; have even purchased a piece of land from three to four
hundred acres, I know not which till the survey is completed, and
shall only return next summer to wind up my affairs in England;
thenceforth I mean to be a subject of the High Commissioner.
Now you would have gone longer yet without news of your truant
patient, but that I have a medical discovery to
communicate. I find I can (almost immediately) fight off a
cold with liquid extract of coca; two or (if obstinate) three
teaspoonfuls in the day for a variable period of from one to five
days sees the cold generally to the door. I find it at once
produces a glow, stops rigour, and though it makes one very
uncomfortable, prevents the advance of the disease. Hearing
of this influenza, it occurred to me that this might prove
remedial; and perhaps a stronger exhibition—injections of
cocaine, for instance—still better.
If on my return I find myself let in for this epidemic, which
seems highly calculated to nip me in the bud, I shall feel very
much inclined to make the experiment. See what a gulf you
may save me from if you shall have previously made it on anima
vili, on some less important sufferer, and shall have found
it worse than useless.
How is Miss Boodle and her family? Greeting to your
brother and all friends in Bournemouth, yours very sincerely,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Februar den 3en
1890.
Dampfer Lübeck zwischen Apia
und Sydney.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—I have
got one delightful letter from you, and heard from my mother of
your kindness in going to see her. Thank you for that: you
can in no way more touch and serve me. . . . Ay, ay, it is sad to
sell 17; sad and fine were the old days: when I was away in
Apemama, I wrote two copies of verse about Edinburgh and the
past, so ink black, so golden bright. I will send them, if
I can find them, for they will say something to you, and indeed
one is more than half addressed to you. This is
it—
TO MY OLD COMRADES
Do you remember—can we e’er
forget?—
How, in the coiled perplexities of youth,
In our wild climate, in our scowling town,
We gloomed and shivered, sorrowed, sobbed, and feared?
The belching winter wind, the missile rain,
The rare and welcome silence of the snows,
The laggard morn, the haggard day, the night,
The grimy spell of the nocturnal town,
Do you remember?—Ah, could one forget!
As when the fevered sick that all night long
Listed the wind intone, and hear at last
The ever-welcome voice of the chanticleer
Sing in the bitter hour before the dawn,—
With sudden ardour, these desire the day:
(Here a squall sends all flying.)
So sang in the gloom of youth the bird of
hope;
So we, exulting, hearkened and desired.
For lo! as in the palace porch of life
We huddled with chimeras, from within—
How sweet to hear!—the music swelled and fell,
And through the breach of the revolving doors
What dreams of splendour blinded us and fled!
I have
since then contended and rejoiced;
Amid the glories of the house of life
Profoundly entered, and the shrine beheld:
Yet when the lamp from my expiring eyes
Shall dwindle and recede, the voice of love
Fall insignificant on my closing ears,
What sound shall come but the old cry of the wind
In our inclement city? what return
But the image of the emptiness of youth,
Filled with the sound of footsteps and that voice
Of discontent and rapture and despair?
So, as in darkness, from the magic lamp,
The momentary pictures gleam and fade
And perish, and the night resurges—these
Shall I remember, and then all forget.
They’re pretty second-rate, but felt. I
can’t be bothered to copy the other.
I have bought 314½ acres of beautiful land in the bush
behind Apia; when we get the house built, the garden laid, and
cattle in the place, it will be something to fall back on for
shelter and food; and if the island could stumble into political
quiet, it is conceivable it might even bring a little income. . .
. We range from 600 to 1500 feet, have five streams, waterfalls,
precipices, profound ravines, rich tablelands, fifty head of
cattle on the ground (if any one could catch them), a great view
of forest, sea, mountains, the warships in the haven: really a
noble place. Some day you are to take a long holiday and
come and see us: it has been all planned.
With all these irons in the fire, and cloudy prospects, you
may be sure I was pleased to hear a good account of
business. I believed The Master was a sure card: I
wonder why Henley thinks it grimy; grim it is, God knows, but
sure not grimy, else I am the more deceived. I am sorry he
did not care for it; I place it on the line with Kidnapped
myself. We’ll see as time goes on whether it goes
above or falls below.
R. L. S.
SS. Lübeck, [between
Apia and Sydney, February] 1890.
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—I
desire nothing better than to continue my relation with the
Magazine, to which it pleases me to hear I have been
useful. The only thing I have ready is the enclosed
barbaric piece. As soon as I have arrived in Sydney I shall
send you some photographs, a portrait of Tembinoka, perhaps a
view of the palace or of the ‘matted men’ at their
singing; also T.’s flag, which my wife designed for him: in
a word, what I can do best for you. It will be thus a
foretaste of my book of travels. I shall ask you to let me
have, if I wish it, the use of the plates made, and to make up a
little tract of the verses and illustrations, of which you might
send six copies to H. M. Tembinoka, King of Apemama via
Butaritari, Gilbert Islands. It might be best to send it by
Crawford and Co., S. F. There is no postal service; and
schooners must take it, how they may and when. Perhaps some
such note as this might be prefixed:
At my departure from the island of Apemama, for
which you will look in vain in most atlases, the king and
I agreed, since we both set up to be in the poetical
way, that we should celebrate our separation in
verse. Whether or not his majesty has been true to
his bargain, the laggard posts of the Pacific may perhaps
inform me in six months, perhaps not before a
year. The following lines represent my part of the
contract, and it is hoped, by their pictures of
strange manners, they may entertain a civilised
audience. Nothing throughout has been invented or
exaggerated; the lady herein referred to as the
author’s Muse, has confined herself to stringing
into rhyme facts and legends that I saw or heard during two
months’ residence upon the island.
R. L. S.
You
will have received from me a letter about The
Wrecker. No doubt it is a new experiment for me, being
disguised so much as a study of manners, and the interest turning
on a mystery of the detective sort, I think there need be no
hesitation about beginning it in the fall of the year.
Lloyd has nearly finished his part, and I shall hope to send you
very soon the MS. of about the
first four-sevenths. At the same time, I have been
employing myself in Samoa, collecting facts about the recent war;
and I propose to write almost at once and to publish shortly a
small volume, called I know not what—the War In Samoa, the
Samoa Trouble, an Island War, the War of the Three Consuls, I
know not—perhaps you can suggest. It was meant to be
a part of my travel book; but material has accumulated on my
hands until I see myself forced into volume form, and I hope it
may be of use, if it come soon. I have a few photographs of
the war, which will do for illustrations. It is conceivable
you might wish to handle this in the Magazine, although I am
inclined to think you won’t, and to agree with you.
But if you think otherwise, there it is. The travel letters
(fifty of them) are already contracted for in papers; these I was
quite bound to let M’Clure handle, as the idea was of his
suggestion, and I always felt a little sore as to one trick I
played him in the matter of the end-papers. The war-volume
will contain some very interesting and picturesque details: more
I can’t promise for it. Of course the fifty newspaper
letters will be simply patches chosen from the travel volume (or
volumes) as it gets written.
But you see I have in hand:—
Say half done.
|
1. The Wrecker.
|
Lloyd’s copy half done, mine not touched.
|
2. The Pearl Fisher (a novel promised to the
Ledger, and which will form, when it comes in book form,
No. 2 of our South Sea Yarns).
|
Not begun, but all material ready.
|
3. The War Volume.
|
Ditto.
|
4. The Big Travel Book, which includes the
letters.
|
You know how they stand.
|
5. The Ballads.
|
Excusez du peu! And you see what madness it would
be to make any fresh engagement. At the same time, you have
The Wrecker and the War Volume, if you like
either—or both—to keep my name in the Magazine.
It begins to look as if I should not be able to get any more
ballads done this somewhile. I know the book would sell
better if it were all ballads; and yet I am growing half tempted
to fill up with some other verses. A good few are connected
with my voyage, such as the ‘Home of Tembinoka’ sent
herewith, and would have a sort of slight affinity to the
South Sea Ballads. You might tell me how that
strikes a stranger.
In all this, my real interest is with the travel volume, which
ought to be of a really extraordinary interest.
I am sending you ‘Tembinoka’ as he stands; but
there are parts of him that I hope to better, particularly in
stanzas III. and II. I scarce feel intelligent
enough to try just now; and I thought at any rate you had better
see it, set it up if you think well, and let me have a proof; so,
at least, we shall get the bulk of it straight. I have
spared you Teñkoruti, Tenbaitake, Tembinatake, and other
barbarous names, because I thought the dentists in the States had
work enough without my assistance; but my chiefs name is Tembinoka, pronounced, according to the
present quite modern habit in the Gilberts,
Tembinok’. Compare in the margin Tengkorootch; a
singular new trick, setting at defiance all South Sea analogy,
for nowhere else do they show even the ability, far less the
will, to end a word upon a consonant. Loia is Lloyd’s
name, ship becomes shipé, teapot, tipoté,
etc. Our admirable friend Herman Melville, of whom, since I
could judge, I have thought more than ever, had no ear for
languages whatever: his Hapar tribe should be Hapaa, etc.
But this is of no interest to you: suffice it, you see how I
am as usual up to the neck in projects, and really all likely
bairns this time. When will this activity cease? Too
soon for me, I dare to say.
R. L. S.
February 4th, 1890,
SS. ‘Lübeck.’
MY DEAR JAMES PAYN,—In
virtue of confessions in your last, you would at the present
moment, if you were along of me, be sick; and I will ask you to
receive that as an excuse for my hand of write. Excuse a
plain seaman if he regards with scorn the likes of you pore
land-lubbers ashore now. (Reference to nautical
ditty.) Which I may however be allowed to add that when
eight months’ mail was laid by my side one evening in Apia,
and my wife and I sat up the most of the night to peruse the
same—(precious indisposed we were next day in
consequence)—no letter, out of so many, more appealed to
our hearts than one from the pore, stick-in-the-mud,
land-lubbering, common (or garden) Londoner, James Payn.
Thank you for it; my wife says, ‘Can’t I see him when
we get back to London?’ I have told her the thing
appeared to me within the spear of practical politix. (Why
can’t I spell and write like an honest, sober, god-fearing
litry gent? I think it’s the motion of the
ship.) Here I was interrupted to play chess with the chief
engineer; as I grow old, I prefer the ‘athletic sport of
cribbage,’ of which (I am sure I misquote) I have just been
reading in your delightful Literary Recollections.
How you skim along, you and Andrew Lang (different as you are),
and yet the only two who can keep a fellow smiling every page,
and ever and again laughing out loud. I joke wi’
deeficulty, I believe; I am not funny; and when I am, Mrs. Oliphant
says I’m vulgar, and somebody else says (in Latin) that
I’m a whore, which seems harsh and even uncalled for: I
shall stick to weepers; a 5s. weeper, 2s. 6d. laugher, 1s.
shocker.
My dear sir, I grow more and more idiotic; I cannot even feign
sanity. Sometime in the month of June a stalwart
weather-beaten man, evidently of seafaring antecedents, shall be
observed wending his way between the Athenæum Club and
Waterloo Place. Arrived off No. 17, he shall be observed to
bring his head sharply to the wind, and tack into the outer
haven. ‘Captain Payn in the
harbour?’—‘Ay, ay, sir. What
ship?’—‘Barquentin R. L. S., nine hundred and
odd days out from the port of Bournemouth, homeward bound, with
yarns and curiosities.’
Who was it said, ‘For God’s sake, don’t
speak of it!’ about Scott and his tears? He knew what
he was saying. The fear of that hour is the skeleton in all
our cupboards; that hour when the pastime and the livelihood go
together; and—I am getting hard of hearing myself; a pore
young child of forty, but new come frae my Mammy, O!
Excuse these follies, and accept the expression of all my
regards.—Yours affectionately,
R. L. Stevenson.
Union Club, Sydney,
March 7th, 1890.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—I did not
send off the enclosed before from laziness; having gone quite
sick, and being a blooming prisoner here in the club, and indeed in my
bedroom. I was in receipt of your letters and your
ornamental photo, and was delighted to see how well you looked,
and how reasonably well I stood. . . . I am sure I shall never
come back home except to die; I may do it, but shall always think
of the move as suicidal, unless a great change comes over me, of
which as yet I see no symptom. This visit to Sydney has
smashed me handsomely; and yet I made myself a prisoner here in
the club upon my first arrival. This is not encouraging for
further ventures; Sydney winter—or, I might almost say,
Sydney spring, for I came when the worst was over—is so
small an affair, comparable to our June depression at home in
Scotland. . . . The pipe is right again; it was the springs that
had rusted, and ought to have been oiled. Its voice is now
that of an angel; but, Lord! here in the club I dare not wake
it! Conceive my impatience to be in my own backwoods and
raise the sound of minstrelsy. What pleasures are to be
compared with those of the Unvirtuous Virtuoso.—Yours ever
affectionately, the Unvirtuous Virtuoso,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
SS. ‘Janet
Nicoll,’ off Upolu [Spring 1890].
MY DEAREST COLVIN,—I was
sharply ill at Sydney, cut off, right out of bed, in this steamer
on a fresh island cruise, and have already reaped the
benefit. We are excellently found this time, on a spacious
vessel, with an excellent table; the captain, supercargo, our one
fellow-passenger, etc., very nice; and the charterer, Mr.
Henderson, the very man I could have chosen. The truth is,
I fear, this life is the only one that suits me; so long as I
cruise in the South Seas, I shall be well and happy—alas,
no, I do not mean that, and absit omen!—I mean that,
so soon as I cease from cruising, the nerves are strained, the
decline commences, and I steer slowly but surely back to
bedward. We left Sydney, had a cruel rough passage to
Auckland, for the Janet is the worst roller I was ever
aboard of. I was confined to my cabin, ports closed, self
shied out of the berth, stomach (pampered till the day I left on
a diet of perpetual egg-nogg) revolted at ship’s food and
ship eating, in a frowsy bunk, clinging with one hand to the
plate, with the other to the glass, and using the knife and fork
(except at intervals) with the eyelid. No matter: I picked
up hand over hand. After a day in Auckland, we set sail
again; were blown up in the main cabin with calcium fires, as we
left the bay. Let no man say I am unscientific: when I ran,
on the alert, out of my stateroom, and found the main cabin
incarnadined with the glow of the last scene of a pantomime, I
stopped dead: ‘What is this?’ said I.
‘This ship is on fire, I see that; but why a
pantomime?’ And I stood and reasoned the point, until
my head was so muddled with the fumes that I could not find the
companion. A few seconds later, the captain had to enter
crawling on his belly, and took days to recover (if he has
recovered) from the fumes. By singular good fortune, we got
the hose down in time and saved the ship, but Lloyd lost most of
his clothes and a great part of our photographs was
destroyed. Fanny saw the native sailors tossing overboard a
blazing trunk; she stopped them in time, and behold, it contained
my manuscripts. Thereafter we had three (or two) days fine
weather: then got into a gale of wind, with rain and a vexatious
sea. As we drew into our anchorage in a bight of Savage
Island, a man ashore told me afterwards the sight
of the Janet Nicoll made him sick; and indeed it was rough
play, though nothing to the night before. All through this
gale I worked four to six hours per diem, spearing the ink-bottle
like a flying fish, and holding my papers together as I
might. For, of all things, what I was at was
history—the Samoan business—and I had to turn from
one to another of these piles of manuscript notes, and from one
page to another in each, until I should have found employment for
the hands of Briareus. All the same, this history is a
godsend for a voyage; I can put in time, getting events
co-ordinated and the narrative distributed, when my much-heaving
numskull would be incapable of finish or fine style. At
Savage we met the missionary barque John Williams. I
tell you it was a great day for Savage Island: the path up the
cliffs was crowded with gay islandresses (I like that feminine
plural) who wrapped me in their embraces, and picked my pockets
of all my tobacco, with a manner which a touch would have made
revolting, but as it was, was simply charming, like the Golden
Age. One pretty, little, stalwart minx, with a red flower
behind her ear, had searched me with extraordinary zeal; and
when, soon after, I missed my matches, I accused her (she still
following us) of being the thief. After some delay, and
with a subtle smile, she produced the box, gave me one
match, and put the rest away again. Too tired to add
more.—Your most affectionate,
R. L. S.
S.S. ‘Janet
Nicoll,’ off Peru Island, Kingsmills
Group,
July 13th, ’90.
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—I am
moved to write to you in the matter of the end papers. I am
somewhat tempted to begin them again. Follow the reasons
pro and con:—
1st. I must say I feel as if something in the nature of
the end
paper were a desirable finish to the number, and that the
substitutes of occasional essays by occasional contributors
somehow fail to fill the bill. Should you differ with me on
this point, no more is to be said. And what follows must be
regarded as lost words.
2nd. I am rather taken with the idea of continuing the
work. For instance, should you have no distaste for papers
of the class called Random Memories, I should enjoy
continuing them (of course at intervals), and when they were done
I have an idea they might make a readable book. On the
other hand, I believe a greater freedom of choice might be taken,
the subjects more varied and more briefly treated, in somewhat
approaching the manner of Andrew Lang in the Sign of the
Ship; it being well understood that the broken sticks [187] method is one not very suitable (as
Colonel Burke would say) to my genius, and not very likely to be
pushed far in my practice. Upon this point I wish you to
condense your massive brain. In the last lot I was
promised, and I fondly expected to receive, a vast amount of
assistance from intelligent and genial correspondents. I
assure you, I never had a scratch of a pen from any one above the
level of a village idiot, except once, when a lady sowed my head
full of grey hairs by announcing that she was going to direct her
life in future by my counsels. Will the correspondents be
more copious and less irrelevant in the future? Suppose
that to be the case, will they be of any use to me in my place of
exile? Is it possible for a man in Samoa to be in touch
with the great heart of the People? And is it not perhaps a
mere folly to attempt, from so hopeless a distance, anything so
delicate as a series of papers? Upon these points, perpend,
and give me the results of your perpensions.
3rd. The emolument would be agreeable to your humble
servant.
I have now stated all the pros, and the most of the
cons are come in by the way. There follows, however,
one immense Con (with a capital ‘C’), which I beg you
to consider particularly. I fear that, to be of any use for
your magazine, these papers should begin with the beginning of a
volume. Even supposing my hands were free, this would be
now impossible for next year. You have to consider whether,
supposing you have no other objection, it would be worth while to
begin the series in the middle of a volume, or desirable to delay
the whole matter until the beginning of another year.
Now supposing that the cons have it, and you refuse my
offer, let me make another proposal, which you will be very
inclined to refuse at the first off-go, but which I really
believe might in time come to something. You know how the
penny papers have their answers to correspondents. Why not
do something of the same kind for the
‘culchawed’? Why not get men like Stimson,
Brownell, Professor James, Goldwin Smith, and others who will
occur to you more readily than to me, to put and to answer a
series of questions of intellectual and general interest, until
at last you should have established a certain standard of matter
to be discussed in this part of the Magazine?
I want you to get me bound volumes of the Magazine from its
start. The Lord knows I have had enough copies; where they
are I know not. A wandering author gathers no
magazines.
The Wrecker is in no forrader state than in last
reports. I have indeed got to a period when I cannot well
go on until I can refresh myself on the proofs of the
beginning. My respected collaborator, who handles the
machine which is now addressing you, has indeed carried his
labours farther, but not, I am led to understand, with what we
used to call a blessing; at least, I have been refused a sight of
his latest labours. However, there is plenty of time ahead,
and I feel no anxiety about the tale, except that it may meet
with your approval.
All
this voyage I have been busy over my Travels, which, given
a very high temperature and the saloon of a steamer usually going
before the wind, and with the cabins in front of the engines, has
come very near to prostrating me altogether. You will
therefore understand that there are no more poems. I wonder
whether there are already enough, and whether you think that such
a volume would be worth the publishing? I shall hope to
find in Sydney some expression of your opinion on this
point. Living as I do among—not the most cultured of
mankind (‘splendidly educated and perfect gentlemen when
sober’)—I attach a growing importance to friendly
criticisms from yourself.
I believe that this is the most of our business. As for
my health, I got over my cold in a fine style, but have not been
very well of late. To my unaffected annoyance, the
blood-spitting has started again. I find the heat of a
steamer decidedly wearing and trying in these latitudes, and I am
inclined to think the superior expedition rather dearly paid
for. Still, the fact that one does not even remark the
coming of a squall, nor feel relief on its departure, is a mercy
not to be acknowledged without gratitude. The rest of the
family seem to be doing fairly well; both seem less run down than
they were on the Equator, and Mrs. Stevenson very much
less so. We have now been three months away, have visited
about thirty-five islands, many of which were novel to us, and
some extremely entertaining; some also were old acquaintances,
and pleasant to revisit. In the meantime, we have really a
capital time aboard ship, in the most pleasant and interesting
society, and with (considering the length and nature of the
voyage) an excellent table. Please remember us all to Mr.
Scribner, the young chieftain of the house, and the lady, whose
health I trust is better. To Mrs. Burlingame we all desire
to be remembered, and I hope you will give our news to Low, St.
Gaudens, Faxon, and others of the faithful in the city. I
shall probably return to Samoa direct, having given up all
idea of returning to civilisation in the meanwhile. There,
on my ancestral acres, which I purchased six months ago from a
blind Scots blacksmith, you will please address me until further
notice. The name of the ancestral acres is going to be
Vailima; but as at the present moment nobody else knows the name,
except myself and the co-patentees, it will be safer, if less
ambitious, to address R. L. S., Apia, Samoa. The ancestral
acres run to upwards of three hundred; they enjoy the
ministrations of five streams, whence the name. They are
all at the present moment under a trackless covering of
magnificent forest, which would be worth a great deal if it grew
beside a railway terminus. To me, as it stands, it
represents a handsome deficit. Obliging natives from the
Cannibal Islands are now cutting it down at my expense. You
would be able to run your magazine to much greater advantage if
the terms of authors were on the same scale with those of my
cannibals. We have also a house about the size of a
manufacturer’s lodge. ’Tis but the egg of the
future palace, over the details of which on paper Mrs. Stevenson
and I have already shed real tears; what it will be when it comes
to paying for it, I leave you to imagine. But if it can
only be built as now intended, it will be with genuine
satisfaction and a growunded pride that I shall welcome you at
the steps of my Old Colonial Home, when you land from the steamer
on a long-merited holiday. I speak much at my ease; yet I
do not know, I may be now an outlaw, a bankrupt, the abhorred of
all good men. I do not know, you probably do. Has
Hyde [190] turned upon me? Have I fallen,
like Danvers Carew?
It is suggested to me that you might like to know what will be
my future society. Three consuls, all at logger-heads with
one another, or at the best in a clique of two against
one; three different sects of missionaries, not upon the best of
terms; and the Catholics and Protestants in a condition of
unhealable ill-feeling as to whether a wooden drum ought or ought
not to be beaten to announce the time of school. The native
population, very genteel, very songful, very agreeable, very
good-looking, chronically spoiling for a fight (a circumstance
not to be entirely neglected in the design of the palace).
As for the white population of (technically, ‘The
Beach’), I don’t suppose it is possible for any
person not thoroughly conversant with the South Seas to form the
smallest conception of such a society, with its grog-shops, its
apparently unemployed hangers-on, its merchants of all degrees of
respectability and the reverse. The paper, of which I must
really send you a copy—if yours were really a live
magazine, you would have an exchange with the editor: I assure
you, it has of late contained a great deal of matter about one of
your contributors—rejoices in the name of Samoa Times
and South Sea Advertiser. The advertisements in the
Advertiser are permanent, being simply subsidies for its
existence. A dashing warfare of newspaper correspondence
goes on between the various residents, who are rather fond of
recurring to one another’s antecedents. But when all
is said, there are a lot of very nice, pleasant people, and I
don’t know that Apia is very much worse than half a hundred
towns that I could name.
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
Hotel Sebastopol,
Noumea, August 1890.
MY DEAR CHARLES,—I have
stayed here a week while Lloyd and my wife continue to voyage in
the Janet Nicoll; this I did, partly to see the
convict system, partly to shorten my stay in the extreme
cold—hear me with my extreme! moi qui suis originaire
d’Edinbourg—of Sydney at this season. I am
feeling very seedy, utterly fatigued, and overborne with
sleep. I have a fine old gentleman of a doctor, who attends
and cheers and entertains, if he does not cure me; but even with
his ministrations I am almost incapable of the exertion
sufficient for this letter; and I am really, as I write, falling
down with sleep. What is necessary to say, I must try to
say shortly. Lloyd goes to clear out our establishments:
pray keep him in funds, if I have any; if I have not, pray try to
raise them. Here is the idea: to install ourselves, at the
risk of bankruptcy, in Samoa. It is not the least likely it
will pay (although it may); but it is almost certain it will
support life, with very few external expenses. If I die, it
will be an endowment for the survivors, at least for my wife and
Lloyd; and my mother, who might prefer to go home, has her
own. Hence I believe I shall do well to hurry my
installation. The letters are already in part done; in part
done is a novel for Scribner; in the course of the next twelve
months I should receive a considerable amount of money. I
am aware I had intended to pay back to my capital some of
this. I am now of opinion I should act foolishly.
Better to build the house and have a roof and farm of my own; and
thereafter, with a livelihood assured, save and repay . . .
There is my livelihood, all but books and wine, ready in a
nutshell; and it ought to be more easy to save and to repay
afterwards. Excellent, say you, but will you save and will
you repay? I do not know, said the Bell of Old Bow. . . .
It seems clear to me. . . . The deuce of the affair is that I do
not know when I shall see you and Colvin. I guess you will
have to come and see me: many a time already we have arranged the
details of your visit in the yet unbuilt house on the
mountain. I shall be able to get decent wine from
Noumea. We shall be able to give you a decent welcome, and talk of
old days. Apropos of old days, do you remember still
the phrase we heard in Waterloo Place? I believe you made a
piece for the piano on that phrase. Pray, if you remember
it, send it me in your next. If you find it impossible to
write correctly, send it me à la récitative,
and indicate the accents. Do you feel (you must) how
strangely heavy and stupid I am? I must at last give up and
go sleep; I am simply a rag.
The morrow: I feel better, but still dim and groggy.
To-night I go to the governor’s; such a lark—no dress
clothes—twenty-four hours’ notice—able-bodied
Polish tailor—suit made for a man with the figure of a
puncheon—same hastily altered for self with the figure of a
bodkin—sight inconceivable. Never mind; dress
clothes, ‘which nobody can deny’; and the officials
have been all so civil that I liked neither to refuse nor to
appear in mufti. Bad dress clothes only prove you are a
grisly ass; no dress clothes, even when explained, indicate a
want of respect. I wish you were here with me to help me
dress in this wild raiment, and to accompany me to M.
Noel-Pardon’s. I cannot say what I would give if
there came a knock now at the door and you came in. I guess
Noel-Pardon would go begging, and we might burn the fr. 200 dress
clothes in the back garden for a bonfire; or what would be yet
more expensive and more humorous, get them once more expanded to
fit you, and when that was done, a second time cut down for my
gossamer dimensions.
I hope you never forget to remember me to your father, who has
always a place in my heart, as I hope I have a little in
his. His kindness helped me infinitely when you and I were
young; I recall it with gratitude and affection in this town of
convicts at the world’s end. There are very few
things, my dear Charles, worth mention: on a retrospect of life,
the day’s flash and colour, one day with another, flames,
dazzles, and puts to sleep; and when the days are gone, like a
fast-flying thaumatrope, they make but a single pattern.
Only a few things stand out; and among these—most plainly to
me—Rutland Square,—Ever, my dear Charles, your
affectionate friend,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
P.S.—Just returned from trying on the dress
clo’. Lord, you should see the coat! It stands
out at the waist like a bustle, the flaps cross in front, the
sleeves are like bags.
Union Club, Sydney
[August 1890].
MY DEAR BURLINGAME,—
Ballads.
The deuce is in this volume. It has cost me more
botheration and dubiety than any other I ever took in hand.
On one thing my mind is made up: the verses at the end have no
business there, and throw them down. Many of them are bad,
many of the rest want nine years’ keeping, and the
remainder are not relevant—throw them down; some I never
want to hear of more, others will grow in time towards decent
items in a second Underwoods—and in the meanwhile,
down with them! At the same time, I have a sneaking idea
the ballads are not altogether without merit—I don’t
know if they’re poetry, but they’re good narrative,
or I’m deceived. (You’ve never said one word
about them, from which I astutely gather you are dead set
against: ‘he was a diplomatic man’—extract from
epitaph of E. L. B.—‘and remained on good terms with
Minor Poets.’) You will have to judge: one of the
Gladstonian trinity of paths must be chosen. (1st) Either
publish
the five ballads, such as they are, in a volume called
Ballads; in which case pray send sheets at once to Chatto
and Windus. Or (2nd) write and tell me you think the book
too small, and I’ll try and get into the mood to do some
more. Or (3rd) write and tell me the whole thing is a
blooming illusion; in which case draw off some twenty copies for
my private entertainment, and charge me with the expense of the
whole dream.
In the matter of rhyme no man can judge himself; I am at the
world’s end, have no one to consult, and my publisher holds
his tongue. I call it unfair and almost unmanly. I do
indeed begin to be filled with animosity; Lord, wait till you see
the continuation of The Wrecker, when I introduce some New
York publishers. . . It’s a good scene; the quantities you
drink and the really hideous language you are represented as
employing may perhaps cause you one tithe of the pain you have
inflicted by your silence on, sir, The Poetaster,
R. L. S.
Lloyd is off home; my wife and I dwell sundered: she in
lodgings, preparing for the move; I here in the club, and at my
old trade—bedridden. Naturally, the visit home is
given up; we only wait our opportunity to get to Samoa, where,
please, address me.
Have I yet asked you to despatch the books and papers left in
your care to me at Apia, Samoa? I wish you would, quam
primum.
R. L. S.
Union Club, Sydney,
August 1890.
MY DEAR HENRY
JAMES,—Kipling is too clever to live. The
Bête Humaine I had already perused in Noumea,
listening the while to the strains of the convict band. He
a Beast; but not human, and, to be frank, not very interesting. ‘Nervous maladies: the
homicidal ward,’ would be the better name: O, this game
gets very tedious.
Your two long and kind letters have helped to entertain the
old familiar sickbed. So has a book called The
Bondman, by Hall Caine; I wish you would look at it. I
am not half-way through yet. Read the book, and communicate
your views. Hall Caine, by the way, appears to take
Hugo’s view of History and Chronology. (Later;
the book doesn’t keep up; it gets very wild.)
I must tell you plainly—I can’t tell
Colvin—I do not think I shall come to England more than
once, and then it’ll be to die. Health I enjoy in the
tropics; even here, which they call sub- or semi-tropical, I come
only to catch cold. I have not been out since my arrival;
live here in a nice bedroom by the fireside, and read books and
letters from Henry James, and send out to get his Tragic
Muse, only to be told they can’t be had as yet in
Sydney, and have altogether a placid time. But I
can’t go out! The thermometer was nearly down to
50° the other day—no temperature for me, Mr. James: how
should I do in England? I fear not at all. Am I very
sorry? I am sorry about seven or eight people in England,
and one or two in the States. And outside of that, I simply
prefer Samoa. These are the words of honesty and
soberness. (I am fasting from all but sin, coughing, The
Bondman, a couple of eggs and a cup of tea.) I was
never fond of towns, houses, society, or (it seems)
civilisation. Nor yet it seems was I ever very fond of
(what is technically called) God’s green earth. The
sea, islands, the islanders, the island life and climate, make
and keep me truly happier. These last two years I have been
much at sea, and I have never wearied; sometimes I have
indeed grown impatient for some destination; more often I was
sorry that the voyage drew so early to an end; and never once did
I lose my fidelity to blue water and a ship. It is plain,
then, that for me my exile to the place of schooners and islands
can be in no sense regarded as a calamity.
Good-bye just now: I must take a turn at my proofs.
N.B.—Even my wife has weakened about the
sea. She wearied, the last time we were ashore, to get
afloat again.—Yours ever,
R. L. S.
Union Club, Sydney,
August 19th, 1890.
MY DEAR MR.
SCHWOB,—Mais, alors, vous avez tous
les bonheurs, vous! More about Villon; it seems
incredible: when it is put in order, pray send it me.
You wish to translate the Black Arrow: dear sir, you
are hereby authorised; but I warn you, I do not like the
work. Ah, if you, who know so well both tongues, and have
taste and instruction—if you would but take a fancy to
translate a book of mine that I myself admired—for we
sometimes admire our own—or I do—with what
satisfaction would the authority be granted! But these
things are too much to expect. Vous ne détestez
pas alors mes bonnes femmes? moi, je les
déteste. I have never pleased myself with any
women of mine save two character parts, one of only a few
lines—the Countess of Rosen, and Madame Desprez in the
Treasure of Franchard.
I had indeed one moment of pride about my poor Black
Arrow: Dickon Crookback I did, and I do, think is a spirited
and possible figure. Shakespeare’s—O, if we can
call that cocoon Shakespeare!—Shakespeare’s is
spirited—one likes to see the untaught athlete butting
against the adamantine ramparts of human nature, head down,
breach up; it reminds us how trivial we are to-day, and what
safety resides in our triviality. For spirited it may be,
but O, sure not possible! I love Dumas and I love
Shakespeare: you will not mistake me when I say that the Richard
of the one reminds me of the Porthos of the other; and if by any
sacrifice of my own literary baggage I could clear the Vicomte
de Bragelonne of Porthos, Jekyll might go, and the
Master, and the Black Arrow, you may be sure,
and I should think my life not lost for mankind if half a dozen
more of my volumes must be thrown in.
The tone of your pleasant letters makes me egotistical; you
make me take myself too gravely. Comprehend how I have
lived much of my time in France, and loved your country, and many
of its people, and all the time was learning that which your
country has to teach—breathing in rather that atmosphere of
art which can only there be breathed; and all the time
knew—and raged to know—that I might write with the
pen of angels or of heroes, and no Frenchman be the least the
wiser! And now steps in M. Marcel Schwob, writes me the
most kind encouragement, and reads and understands, and is kind
enough to like my work.
I am just now overloaded with work. I have two huge
novels on hand—The Wrecker and the Pearl
Fisher, [198] in collaboration with my stepson: the
latter, the Pearl Fisher, I think highly of, for a black,
ugly, trampling, violent story, full of strange scenes and
striking characters. And then I am about waist-deep in my
big book on the South Seas: the big book on the South Seas
it ought to be, and shall. And besides, I have some verses
in the press, which, however, I hesitate to publish. For I
am no judge of my own verse; self-deception is there so
facile. All this and the cares of an impending settlement
in Samoa keep me very busy, and a cold (as usual) keeps me in
bed.
Alas, I shall not have the pleasure to see you yet awhile, if
ever. You must be content to take me as a wandering voice,
and in the form of occasional letters from recondite islands; and
address me, if you will be good enough to write, to Apia,
Samoa. My stepson, Mr. Osbourne, goes home meanwhile to
arrange some affairs; it is not unlikely he may go to Paris to
arrange about the illustrations to my South Seas; in which case I
shall ask him to call upon you, and give you some word of our
outlandish destinies. You will find him intelligent, I think; and
I am sure, if (par hasard) you should take any interest in
the islands, he will have much to tell you.—Herewith I
conclude, and am your obliged and interested correspondent,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.
P.S.—The story you refer to has got lost in the
post.
Union Club, Sydney
[August 1890].
MY DEAR LANG,—I observed
with a great deal of surprise and interest that a controversy in
which you have been taking sides at home, in yellow London,
hinges in part at least on the Gilbert Islanders and their
customs in burial. Nearly six months of my life has been
passed in the group: I have revisited it but the other day; and I
make haste to tell you what I know. The upright
stones—I enclose you a photograph of one on
Apemama—are certainly connected with religion; I do not
think they are adored. They stand usually on the windward
shore of the islands, that is to say, apart from habitation (on
enclosed islands, where the people live on the sea side, I
do not know how it is, never having lived on one). I
gathered from Tembinoka, Rex Apemamae, that the pillars were
supposed to fortify the island from invasion: spiritual
martellos. I think he indicated they were connected with
the cult of Tenti—pronounce almost as chintz in English,
the t being explosive; but you must take this with a grain
of salt, for I knew no word of Gilbert Island; and the
King’s English, although creditable, is rather vigorous
than exact. Now, here follows the point of interest to you:
such pillars, or standing stones, have no connection with
graves. The most elaborate grave that I have ever seen in
the group—to be certain—is in the form of a raised
border of gravel, usually strewn with broken glass.
One, of which I cannot be sure that it was a grave, for I was
told by one that it was, and by another that it was
not—consisted of a mound about breast high in an excavated
taro swamp, on the top of which was a child’s house, or
rather maniapa—that is to say, shed, or open house,
such as is used in the group for social or political
gatherings—so small that only a child could creep under its
eaves. I have heard of another great tomb on Apemama, which
I did not see; but here again, by all accounts, no sign of a
standing stone. My report would be—no connection
between standing stones and sepulture. I shall, however,
send on the terms of the problem to a highly intelligent resident
trader, who knows more than perhaps any one living, white or
native, of the Gilbert group; and you shall have the
result. In Samoa, whither I return for good, I shall myself
make inquiries; up to now, I have neither seen nor heard of any
standing stones in that group.—Yours,
R. L. Stevenson.
Union Club, Sydney
[September 1890].
MY DEAR MRS. FAIRCHILD,—I
began a letter to you on board the Janet Nicoll on my last
cruise, wrote, I believe, two sheets, and ruthlessly destroyed
the flippant trash. Your last has given me great pleasure
and some pain, for it increased the consciousness of my
neglect. Now, this must go to you, whatever it is like.
. . . You are quite right; our civilisation is a hollow fraud,
all the fun of life is lost by it; all it gains is that a larger
number of persons can continue to be contemporaneously unhappy on
the surface of the globe. O, unhappy!—there is a big
word and a false—continue to be not nearly—by about
twenty per cent.—so happy as they might be: that would be
nearer the mark.
When—observe that word, which I will write again and
larger—WHEN you come to see
us in Samoa, you will see for yourself a healthy and happy
people.
You
see, you are one of the very few of our friends rich enough to
come and see us; and when my house is built, and the road is
made, and we have enough fruit planted and poultry and pigs
raised, it is undeniable that you must come—must is the
word; that is the way in which I speak to ladies. You and
Fairchild, anyway—perhaps my friend Blair—we’ll
arrange details in good time. It will be the salvation of
your souls, and make you willing to die.
Let me tell you this: In ’74 or 5 there came to stay
with my father and mother a certain Mr. Seed, a prime minister or
something of New Zealand. He spotted what my complaint was;
told me that I had no business to stay in Europe; that I should
find all I cared for, and all that was good for me, in the
Navigator Islands; sat up till four in the morning persuading me,
demolishing my scruples. And I resisted: I refused to go so
far from my father and mother. O, it was virtuous, and O,
wasn’t it silly! But my father, who was always my
dearest, got to his grave without that pang; and now in 1890, I
(or what is left of me) go at last to the Navigator
Islands. God go with us! It is but a Pisgah sight
when all is said; I go there only to grow old and die; but when
you come, you will see it is a fair place for the purpose.
Flaubert [201] has not turned up; I hope he will
soon; I knew of him only through Maxime Descamps.—With
kindest messages to yourself and all of yours, I remain,
Robert Louis
Stevenson.