Here is Verdun, like a Florence of the North in the
midst of its amphitheatre of hills. After days of
frost and snow, so pitiless to our men in the demolished
trenches which are now mere conglomerations of shell-holes,
a soft spring air has suddenly come to relax
the numbed limbs and the frozen earth. The surprise
is so great that it brings to unaccustomed lips that
charming and unexpected name of Florence. It is
the hour of sunset, a sunset that bathes the undulating
line of the hills in gold and mauve, and lights up the
dismal waters of the flooded Meuse.
At the foot of the gloomy cathedral, so different
from the graceful Sainte-Marie-des-Fleurs with its
coloured marble, one crosses a passage under half-ruined
walls and reaches a terrace which looks out
over all the tragedy of Verdun: gutted houses stripped
of their outer wall and with their furniture hanging
loose like the inwards of slaughtered cattle; crumbled
façades, doors opening on the void, slashed and jagged
fragments of walls, often topped by tall, useless
chimneys. All this, which is now a mere shapeless
mass of rubbish, was once the Rue Mazel, the busiest,
gayest, and liveliest quarter of Verdun, and of that
war-time Verdun which was far more bright,
animated, and amusing than the Verdun of peaceful
days. The bombardment has brought into prominence
the ancient ramparts, dating, no doubt, from the
time of the prince-bishops, which girdle the upper
city and around which the ruins of the new city now
group themselves. A stray dog, the sole living
creature that wanders through the deserted streets,
utters plaintive barks. Shells fall on Jardin-Fontaine.
Right above the city one aeroplane is chasing
another. You hear the tick-tack of their machine-guns;
the German hastily makes his way back to
his own lines....
I am living in a whitewashed cell in a Verdun
barracks. Rolled up in a blanket, I am sleeping on
a camp-bed, when Major P—— rushes in like a whirlwind
and, flashing his little electric lamp, wakes
me up with a start. At the outset of the campaign
he had offered me a more sumptuous hospitality in
the cellars of Berry-au-Bac. The cellars of Berry-au-Bac
were replete with carpets, armchairs, mirrors,
and art bronzes. We ate from patterned china, and
drank from fine glass. Even if the tableware was an
odd set, it gave one an impression of wealth and luxury.
We took a boat down the Aisne. At times the
bullets accompanied us like a swarm of bees, and the
water seemed to prolong their mournful whistle.
When we went down, in order to get shelter, into those
famous vaulted cellars, decorated like drawing-rooms,
whose mirrors double the perspective, we basked in
unexpected comfort.
“Do you want to go to Fort Vaux?” the major
asks me, point-blank. “It’s the chance of a lifetime.
Three officers are needed to-night—one at the fort, the
other at Vaux village, the third at Damloup. We
start in a quarter of an hour.”
I had expressed a wish to make this pilgrimage.
My wish is now to be granted; the order is immediately
given.
“It is essential,” he adds, “to start at night, so
as to explore the ground in the early morning.”
A quarter of an hour later we get into a motor-car—Captain
L—— of the Army Corps Staff and I. On
the way we pick up Captain H—— of the Divisional
Staff.
We follow the Étain road, then leave the car to
scramble up a wooded slope and reach the divisional
headquarters. The zone of death begins. The road
which we have just left is bordered by an inextricable
mass of fragments of waggons, open sacks,
dirty harness, rifles, and distended bodies of horses,
their legs in the air, their bellies ripped open. In the
wood, our route is sometimes obstructed by broken
branches, and our feet catch on tree-stumps or stumble
in the craters. When the shells plough up the soil
in our vicinity, a column of black smoke, like sooty
dust, poisons the clear night air.
For the night is perfectly clear. Between the
trees the moon sheds a bluish light, a sort of softened
day, delicate and modest, as if she refused to let us
probe the wounds of the earth.
We now go down into a ravine by a path that
winds like a mountain track. The gradient is steep,
and it is best to go quickly; the enemy have obtained
the range of the place, and it is shelled without respite.
A corpse is there, and has to be strode over. Lower
down, in front of headquarters, there is another that
seems to sleep under its helmet. A pious hand has
put the helmet back over the mangled face.
We enter the dug-out. After a passage, where the
liaison officers lie sleeping close together, comes a
wainscoted room, with a chair and a table and, at
the back, an iron bedstead. The chief, General de
B——, is poring over his map. He sits up in his chair
when he sees us. He is young and cheerful, with
clear eyes and an incisive manner of speech. Only
one sign of weariness: the hollows under his eyes.
How many such leaders I have seen in action! Surmounting
physical ordeals and dangers, bearing
without a murmur the weight of all the lives entrusted
to their charge, when their most loyal aides were
succumbing to sleep or anxiety, they quietly bent
their brains to the study of a plan of campaign and
carefully arranged, without the dangerous counsels
of feverish haste, the minutest details of some
operation.
The Germans are at the foot of the Fort Vaux and
even half-way up. The slopes descend gently at
first, in front of the fort, for a space of three or four
hundred yards at most, then they rush down abruptly
to the Woevre plain. This rapid descent makes a
right angle which our artillery cannot touch because
of its trajectories. The Germans are established
there. It is important that they should be dislodged.
What line do they follow below Hardaumont, past
the village, and, farther to the east, near Damloup?
Before action is taken, this point must be accurately
determined. There has been fighting these last few
days, and the position remains slightly confused.
Our caravan, then, will split up into three: each of
us will have his objective—Vaux, the fort, and
Damloup—and each his guide.
I recall those confabulations on the mountains
before undertaking a climb which offered some difficulty
or other, or, in Lovitel’s hut in Dauphiné, those
little councils of war on the eve of a chamois hunt:
one would take this path, another that couloir;
another speaks of a dangerous place, and thinks it
best to use a rope. After this, at daybreak, we shake
hands and set off, each by his own route, to meet at
the appointed place.
We go up the side of the ravine again and come
to a wood that grows sparser and sparser. Yes, it
is indeed the beginning of a difficult climb. The air
is keen, and so bright is the moon that the stars are
scarcely visible. As we climb higher the vegetation
becomes more scanty; the trees are now stunted—a
few hardy larches, with twisted roots, persist in
growing; then comes the zone of sickly shrubs;
finally there is nothing left but the bare ground.
The same order is found here; around me there are
a large number of trees, but they are in fragments,
the branches broken, the trunks battered, the roots
protruding from the riven soil, and soon they are
nothing but miserable broomsticks. The summit,
where lies the region of ice and desolation, cannot
be far off.
Yet the mountain has the unrivalled advantage
of silence. We accustom ourselves so quickly to the
murmur of the torrents that roll at the bottom., and
even that murmur is like the hidden refrain that
accompanies a day-dream. Here we are obsessed
by that continual, sharp, menacing, formidable whistle
which precedes the bursting of a shell. And sometimes
we have to stop, to lie down or to plunge into
a crater—there are only too many places to choose
from—and wait until the storm has passed over.
When the curtain fire breaks off for a while, we resume
our journey. The ground is riddled like a sieve; at
the cross-roads the corpses, men or horses, lie in piles.
The light of the moon covers them with a mysterious
winding sheet.
We stop at the stone quarry which forms the
brigade headquarters. There, too, a chief is still
awake, and finishing a plan of operations. Tall, very
youthful-looking, with a ringing voice and a hearty
manner, he too appears one of those born trainers
of men who know how to unite method with dash.
What a clearness they all show in their reports and
anticipations! What importance they attach to the
sparing of lives! What frankness in their tone, what
an art of going straight to the point! Here there is
no longer any toadying or vanity or desire to please.
A sort of moral elevation, the result of their leadership,
has come to mark their character. When one
is acquainted with the matter in hand, a simple
telephone conversation is a model of clear language
and logical reasoning.
Thus, from one post to another, the dialogue is
prolonged into the night. One seems to visit a series
of catacombs where a rite is performed by the dim
light of the sanctuary lamp. One goes away with a
sense of religious reverence.
“Good luck!” says the colonel to me, as he escorts
me out over the threshold. “I am going to rest for
a few hours.”
It is two o’clock in the morning.
The worst part of the journey is still to come;
fifteen to eighteen hundred yards over a tableland,
which by day is here and there vaguely guarded from
sight by copses—what copses!—but for the greater
part of the time is quite devoid of cover. By moonlight
our outlines will scarcely stand out above the
road over the ridge; the return journey, if we set
out again after sunrise, will be a little more complicated.
We walk in Indian file, the guide, Captain P——
of the Brigade Staff, who wished to accompany me,
and myself. The shells fall like hail. The earth
which they have churned up has crumbled to such
an extent that it looks like a mass of cinders. Fifteen
to eighteen hundred yards is much farther than one
thinks. One has time to make a rapid mental survey
of one’s whole career.
Again it is mountaineering memories that surge
up in my brain. This time it is the journey through
a gorge, the Neuweisthor, between the valley of Fée
and that of Zermatt in the Valais Alps. We had
taken an unfamiliar path; we had to follow a ridge,
which on either side looked out over a precipice; on
the right, we could make out a very uninviting
crevasse; on the left, right at the bottom, the little
Italian village of Macugagna appeared at such a
sheer drop beneath us that we had the feeling that,
if we were to stumble, we should certainly roll down
to it, two or three thousand feet below. The ridge
was so narrow that we could not place one foot
alongside of the other, and we did not know where
to pitch our ice-axes. To make matters worse, while
the guide was a level-headed man, the porter who
brought up the rear of our roped party had fuddled
himself with drink before starting. We were at the
mercy of a false step on the part of this tippler. But
his professional honour had passed into his legs. The
ridge ends in a sort of stone tower where one may
gain a really firm foothold and breathe freely. There,
on turning round, I saw my man, streaming with
sweat and his eyes starting out of his head; he had
worked all the alcohol out of his system and had fully
recovered his faculties as guide.
The track that we are now pursuing is not so hard
to follow, but in other ways it is beset with terrors.
Every moment we have to walk across bodies flung
across it. At every ten or twelve yards, soon at every
five or six paces, we are compelled to stride over a
corpse, or even bunches of corpses, some slashed and
torn, others in a running posture as if they had been
overtaken while in full activity. The light of the
moon softens the horror of their wounds without
altogether veiling it. Many of them belong to the
scouts who ensure connections, carry orders, show
routes to be followed. In this war, where men vie
with one another in every kind of heroism, we must
pay a special tribute to those soldiers who, while their
comrades dig themselves in as best they can under
the hurricane of fire, run about in the open in order
to make up for signalling difficulties or for the breaking
of telephone wires. Thanks to these men, efforts are
co-ordinated and an understanding is maintained at
all points of the front, so that the chain of unity
holds together. If one falls, there is at once another
to take his place. The remainder are always ready;
they even offer their services before their turn comes.
Prepared to go upon the most perilous errands, they
form a mobile guard round their chief; they are the
projecting rays of his brain, which, through them,
directs men’s wills from afar and draws up or corrects
the plans of an operation. Those who have fallen
there, or at any rate some of them, seem to have
assumed in death the attitude of those antique youths
who handed on to each other the sacred torch in the
race. Is it the moon that helps me to see these broken
statues? Shall I once more find such marble visions
by daylight? The crude light of day does not do
justice to the beauty of death.
The soldier who acts as our guide marches at a
good rate. He gives the signal to stop when a shell
falls too close to us, or when the cadence of the explosions
points to a systematic curtain fire. He does
not pick out the places for halting, and makes us
come to a standstill suddenly with corpses under our
very noses, lucky indeed if our faces are not splashed
with fragments of flesh crushed once more by that
ghastly pestle.
But why does he stop at this moment? Just now
the tempo seems to be slackening. Surely we ought
to take advantage of this respite. Ah, there he is,
stripping a dead soldier! He half-raises him and
takes off one by one the straps which the man wears
in banderole. In this way he unfastens four or five
water-bottles, each holding four pints. These he
unscrews and sniffs at in turn, not without anxiety
on account of the shells which might interrupt him
at his task. His face lights up: the water is drinkable.
The man whom he has stripped so methodically
carried a supply of water for replenishment, and
water on this dried-up tableland is as precious as in
the desert. The place from which it is drawn is at
the foot of the hillside: you are not sure of getting
there or of coming back. At the fort, so many lips
are thirsty for fresh water!
The guide, with his water-bottle straps round his
waist, hastily resumes his journey, drawing us after
him as a roebuck draws a pack of hounds.
At this pace we pass a caravan of porters loaded
with a consignment of grenades. They are marching
as fast as their burden allows them, under the rain of
steel. The only means of transport here is the human
back. Poor little men, whose heart is still the greatest
of all military forces! “It is a scientific war,”
people have declared. “Victory lies with munitions.
It is the munitions that crush and destroy everything.”
Well, when the artillery thinks to have
destroyed everything, the human will still offers a
wall of flesh as a resistance: men have endured
everything—fire, hunger, cold, and thirst—and still
they rise out of the shattered soil. No war will be
found to have given such examples of the superiority
of man to the machine.
The countryside looks all scorched and burnt.
The lava of a volcano, the shocks of an earthquake,
all the cataclysms of nature would not have flayed
it more unmercifully. It is a chaos without a name,
a circle in Dante’s Inferno. I rack my memory for
parallel scenes; perhaps certain Alpine solitudes
where the glaciers have withdrawn or the moraines
alternate with precipices—solitudes that have never
heard the song of a bird or felt the contact of a living
creature.
The craters meet and open like the yawning mouths
of volcanoes. Broken branches, scattered boulders,
detritus of all kinds and shreds of human flesh are
mingled. A nameless stench rises from the tortured
soil.
In front of us rises a wall covered with earth.
There are gashes in it, and through these cracks the
stones have fallen into the ditch. On the whole,
however, it has borne the avalanche without flinching.
Three-quarters of the vaulted door is masked by a
mass of concrete dislodged by a 380 or 420 mm.
shell. It is like the cave of the Cyclops, which had
a rock for its door and which received Ulysses and
his companions. Past the open space we scurry
along quickly, for it is specially favoured by the
enemy’s artillery, as the corpses, more numerous
here, bear witness. Even so did the Cyclops kill all
strangers.
What is my surprise at finding the interior of the
fort undamaged! It must have been built of solid
materials to resist such a hammering. The staircase,
the passages, the rooms are crammed. A curious sight
is the swarm of men under the electric lights: sleepers
lying in every conceivable pose, some stretched out
anywhere, others curled up so as to occupy the least
possible space, all impervious to noises, refusing to
wake up, enjoying the delicious relaxation of sleep
removed from danger; fatigue parties making their
way with difficulty through the crush; guards going
on or returning from duty; wounded men with white
bandages on their wounds; isolated squads looking
for their company. One guesses the cause of this
confusion, which will have to be remedied. The fort,
on its tableland, plays the part of those mountain
refuges where lost caravans come to find shelter from
the storm. It is a haven of safety; he who succeeds
in crossing the danger-zone can breathe freely under
the arched vaults.
Little by little the march past becomes more
orderly, and organization is introduced into the mob.
The right is reserved for those coming in, the left for
those going out. Here is the ambulance, there is the
guard-room, there is the orderly-room.
On our arrival our guide is received with enthusiasm.
His array of water-bottles earns him an
ovation. Thirst is working havoc here. The nearest
source of water is in the Fontaines ravine, and that
ravine is constantly peppered with shot. Yet men
risk their skins to go and get a drink. Water creates
such pitiful mirages. In the shapeless furrows
which serve them as shelters, the troops, with parched
lips, wait for water with feverish impatience; they
are reduced sometimes to drinking the tainted water
that stagnates in the shell-holes, and to other strange
expedients. Who will ever tell of all the horrors
endured for Verdun and for that France which is
behind Verdun?
A soldier, somewhat elderly, no doubt a Territorial,
comes in with rolls of bread on his back. He is near
collapsing; he pants, the sweat pours off him in big
drops, his face is white as chalk.
“You are alone?” asks the sergeant of the guard.
“Where is the rest of the fatigue?”
The man makes a vague gesture. The rest of the
fatigue has not followed, will never get here. Still,
the rations it was bringing must be looked for. Where
will they be found? Far from here? Another
gesture of weariness, of indifference, of ignorance—one
cannot guess which.
“Well, do explain yourself!”
The soldier lays down his load and stands up
straight.
“I’ll go back,” is all he says. And he crosses the
threshold again, followed by two men whom the
sergeant has told off.
The commandant of the fort made me visit his
domain, the casemates of Bourges, the observing
stations, of which one is still fit for use, the cupola
deprived of its 75-mm. gun. We run across the commander
of the 3rd Battalion of Light Infantry, who
holds the sector in front of the fort up to the village,
and the battalion chaplain, the Abbé C——, who,
under his helmet, with his weather-beaten features
and his long beard, looks like a crusader rather
than a monk. The latter comes from the neighbouring
redoubt, a little earthwork where he had
set up a dressing station, which he has had to
remove.
“Yesterday,” he told me, “our riflemen brought
in a prisoner, groaning loudly and constantly repeating
in a piteous tone, ‘Vier Kinder! Vier Kinder!’
(Four children!)” For the benefit of those who
knew no German, he made gestures illustrating a row
of figures of different heights and counted up to four
on his fingers. Our men put him in a corner of the
redoubt, which is very narrow, while they themselves,
for want of room, remained in the doorway, exposed
to the bursting shells. The commandant, as he
passed by, ordered them to abandon this Quixotic
arrangement.
Stroking his beard, he adds philosophically:
“After all, whatever comes here comes from the
prisoner’s lines. It is only fair that he should be
able to appreciate its quality.”
The commandant of the fort leads me out on to
the parapets, which are continually being demolished
and continually repaired.
“Be careful; in order to get there we have to
cross as quickly as possible a zone which is under fire
from an enemy machine-gun!”
More treacherous than the whistling of shells, the
bullets pass above our heads, but he himself does not
hurry in the least. Here are posted, in the hollowed-out
earth, finding places as best they can, the look-out
men, and in shelters very little safer, our machine-guns.
Dawn begins to appear, eclipsing the light of the
moon. Half lying on the parapet, I see a glorious
spring sunrise. It awakens the plains of the Woevre,
lighting up the rivulets and pools. Here is Vaux
village on the right, and Damloup village on the left.
Farther on, that large cluster of ruined houses must
be Étain. In the rising sun they form a white lace*-work
of stone, recalling the cities of the East. And
yonder are the frowning hillsides of Hardaumont.
Douaumont towers above, Douaumont still swathed
in darkness, like an evil spirit.
More efficiently than the enemy, the sunshine
climbs the slopes of the fort. It is light and airy,
like a bearer of good tidings. Smiling, it shows me,
in front, two or three hundred yards beyond the
counterscarp, on the sloping turf, several greenish
lumps almost dressed in line. They are the bodies
of Germans mown down in the onslaughts of March 9.
They have fallen in front of the barbed wire. One
could count them. Already their numbers are
diminished. At night their comrades draw them
into their lines by means of hooks or ropes.
The sun has left the rim of the earth and is speedily
mounting the horizon. The morning is of an exquisite
softness that contrasts strangely with the
tragic scene. Behind me is chaos, in front a charnel-heap.
Yet up above a lark is singing. His wings
flap and his claws quiver, but he does not change his
place in the rose-tinted heavens. I watch this sweet
songster fluttering overhead, as if it were pecking at
the light. A look-out man raises his eyes to catch
sight of it. He looks at it tenderly for a moment,
then resumes his watching. The passing shells do
not disturb it in the slightest.
What is happening down there, among the corpses
in green uniforms? One of them has made a
movement; he glides through the grass like a snake.
The enemy uses his dead as a screen or a blind, and
is coming in this way to spy out the land. A look-out
man has also observed this uncanny resurrection.
He fires. Nothing moves. We must have been
mistaken. A long time afterwards, a little below the
suspected point, a body jumps up and abruptly
disappears at a spot where the gradient is very steep
and forms dead ground.
As in the mountains, I sweep the horizon with my
gaze and give names to the valleys and hills. Douaumont,
on my right, is the loftiest summit (1200 feet);
only Souville, at the back, makes any approach to
this. It seems like some incubus weighing upon the
whole surrounding country. I am separated from
it by the wooded slopes of Vaux-Chapître, by the
ravine of Le Bazil, whose existence I guess at, and by
the rising wood of La Caillette. Above the Woevre,
Hardaumont rears its head like a cliff. The Woevre
stretches out as far as the eye can see, broken up with
undergrowth and villages and streaked with roads.
In broad daylight I get a better idea of its bareness,
which was veiled by the kindly dawn. Its untilled
soil resembles a vast marsh. On the right my eyes
rest on the dark blur of Herméville Wood. The outlying
spurs of the Meuse Heights hide a portion of it
from view.
It is there, towards the village, over against those
hillsides, over against Damloup, that the enemy’s
onslaught was shattered. And the fort, on its plateau,
with its superstructure half crushed, with breaches
in its double wall, seems like the formidable hulk of
an ironclad which still floats upon the waters, not yet
abandoned by its crew. The storm thought to overwhelm
it, and it has vanquished the storm.
We stayed very late, in order to see everything,
in accordance with our instructions. Nine o’clock
in the morning; the sun is already high in the heavens.
The sky is clear, the day is a good one for observations,
and the Boche balloons are watching us. The crossing
of the ridge threatens to be difficult.
As a matter of fact, it is difficult to go out at all.
We are at once encircled. Life hangs by a thread.
The corpses, now indiscreet, display ghastly wounds.
Only a few are intact; it is hard to find the broken
statues I saw in the moonlight. And the realization
of death, in the revolt of one’s whole being, is invested
with a special horror—that of being crushed and
pulverized, of being not even a dead man, but a nameless
heap, a handful of fleshly dust. Then, too, there
is the thought of remaining unburied.
This idea did not come spontaneously. We walked
across two corpses: a little soldier, very young, quite
beardless, no doubt of the 1915 class, covered with a
little earth, two or three shovelfuls which did not
suffice to hide him; and, quite near him, a stretcher-bearer,
identified by his Red Cross armlet, his head
split open, still clasping a spade in his hand. The
stretcher-bearer was killed while trying to carry out
his pious duty of interment. Here the stricken must
be left uncared for. We must let Death bury the
dead.
There is a legend which says that the souls of those
who have not been laid in consecrated ground wander
in space without ever finding rest. But the soil of our
invaded country is consecrated ground. May those
who have fallen there in defending it rest in peace!
For the appeal of the Church, Memento quia pulvis
es—“Remember, because thou art dust”—which
accompanies the placing of the ashes on the brows
of the faithful—could I ever have thought out a
more eloquent paraphrase?
A last rationing party meets us. It has not been
able to reach its goal during the night. By day it is
not usual to go to the fort.
“Are you going as far as the fort?”
“We’ll have a try.”
“Good luck!...”