NUMBER SIX.
SWITZERLAND, (CONCLUDED) GERMANY.
Lausanne, August 26.—We left St. Bernard, well pleased with
our hosts, and hastened back to Martigny, where we procured an
open carriage, and proceeded directly to St. Maurice, there to lodge.
The ride along the banks of the Rhone, in the cool of the evening,
was delicious. As it grew dark, the bonfires of the chamois-hunters
were lit up here and there on the distant mountains; and among
other things, we passed a beautiful cascade, seven hundred feet high,
flowing out of a solid rock. At half past three this morning, we
were aroused from our slumbers at St. Maurice, to take the omnibus
for Villeneuve, at the head of the Lake of Geneva. It was just after
sunrise, on another soft and lovely morning, when we stepped on
board the steamer 'Le Leman' to sail down this glorious lake, now
placid and smooth as a mirror. The boat was well filled, principally
with English tourists. We passed near the walls of the famous
Castle of Chillon, where Bonnivard, Byron's 'Prisoner,' lingered in
chains:
'Chillon! thy prison is a holy place,
And thy sad floor an altar—for 'twas trod,
Until his very steps have left a trace,
Worn as if thy cold pavement were a sod,
By Bonnivard!—May none those marks efface,
For they appeal from tyranny to God!'
The castle is at the foot of the hill, on the very margin of the
lake, and seems almost to rise out of the water. The poet has finely
pictured in his 'Prisoner' a striking scene of loneliness, amidst nature's
fairest works. We passed Clarens, too, the 'sweet Clarens'
of the author of 'Helöise:'
''Twas not for fiction chose Rousseau this spot,
Peopling it with affections. 'Tis lone,
And wonderful, and deep, and hath a sound,
And sense, and sight of sweetness: here the Rhone
Hath spread himself a couch,[1] the Alps have reared a throne.'
At eleven o'clock we arrived at Lausanne, via its port, Ouchi, for
the town is a fourth of a mile up the hill. This is a large but irregularly-built
town, and is much frequented by the English. The
house where Gibbon lived yet remains, and is now occupied by an
English family. Here I took leave of the friendly party, and am to
proceed alone to regions as yet to me unknown.
Berne, August 28.—Had a moonlight night-ride from Lausanne,
whence we departed at seven, P. M. I am now coming to the Cantons
where German is usually spoken, so I suppose I must play deaf
and dumb, and talk by signs, guessing the import of what they say to
me, as I did, for example, at the diligence office, when I paid my
fare; but in this case I was left in a non-plus. When I took my
seat, they motioned me out; and I stood patiently waiting to be disposed
of. My luggage was put on, the diligence was filled and
started off, leaving me there, solus, in deep cogitation. Well,
'thinks I to myself,' they are very polite! Presently, however, a
smart buggy came along, and the driver civilly beckoned me to take
a seat. Feeling very cool and good-natured, in I jumped, at the
risk of going where 'the d——l drives;' for I really was somewhat
in the dark, and I couldn't be positive whether it was not the 'old
gentleman' himself. Soon, however, these dismal doubts were dispelled
by our overtaking the diligence, and receiving an English
gentleman into the buggy; and then the simple truth flashed upon
me, that the diligence was full, and they were 'forwarding' me in
an extra, as they are obliged to do, by law of the land, all who apply
before the time.
In some learned discussions about England, I happened to say
that the law securing the descent of property of the nobility, there,
exclusively to the oldest son, seemed to me very unjust. My companion
said he 'gloried in it;' though he himself was a 'younger
son, he abhorred democracy and equality.' And with some more
talk, I fell asleep, and left him to his cigar.
I was somewhat diverted with a prevalent custom of the Germans—that
of embracing and kissing each other, when taking leave. I refer,
of course, to the men; for an affectionate salutation of this sort
to the ladies, it would be unpardonable to omit. But to see the
'grave and reverend seignors' bussing each other, is a little queer.
At two, A. M., we stopped at a place called Peterlinden, and got
some coffee in a 'loft.' About daylight, we were riding in sight of
Lake Neufchatel, and passed the little village of Morat, where the
Swiss heroically defeated an invasion of the Burgundians, in 1440:
of which Byron says:[2]
'There is a spot should not be passed in vain,
Morat! the proud, the patriot field! where man
May gaze on ghastly trophies of the slain,[3]
Nor blush for those who conquered on that plain.
*****
While Waterloo with Cannæ's carnage vies,
Morat and Marathon, twin names shall stand.'
It is vastly amusing and edifying to observe the 'whims and oddities'
of the various people one meets with on these routes, or indeed
any where. The English and Germans generally like each other,
while both dislike the French; and all are equally prejudiced against
we poor Americans—perhaps not without reason. There are too
many young Americans, who ape the worst traits of the English
character, abroad, and make themselves ridiculous, by an affected
hauteur and reserve. There were two such at ——, whom our
Scotchman pronounced 'contemptible puppies; for they considered
themselves too good to speak to the Misses ——, because they
kept a pension;' and he added, rather rudely and illiberally, that 'all
Americans are alike, when they think they have got money enough
to act the aristocrat.' This sweeping charge was not worth notice,
and would never be made by the better class of English or Scotch;
but it must be owned, there is some ground for it; and it is too bad,
that a few dandy upstarts abroad should excite prejudice against the
whole of us.
At nine this morning, we rode through a long shady avenue, lined
with elms, into the handsome town of Berne, the capital of Switzerland.
It is built on a peninsula, formed by the windings of a little
stream called the Aar, in the midst of an extensive and fertile plain.
The two principal streets are long and uniform, the buildings being
all of gray stone, projecting on heavy arches over the side-walks.
In the Rue Grand are several public fountains, adorned with grotesque
figures. At the city-gate, a couple of wooden 'grisly bears,'
(the arms of the Canton,) look down upon all visitors, with a scrutinizing
but rather inviting glance. The cathedral is a very curious
piece of antique architecture, especially the great door, which is
elaborately ornamented with emblematical sculpture. But the most
attractive spot in Berne is the public promenade, by the side of the
river, from whence you have a magnificent prospect of the whole
range of the Oberland Alps, covered with perpetual snows, probably
the most imposing array of mountains in the world, at least the
finest to be seen at one view. A visit to some of this range, through
the valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunen, is usually a prominent
object to the Swiss tourist. Near the summit of one of these
peaks, where 'winter reigns supreme,' the Jung Frau, is the
awful precipice where Byron's 'Manfred' was stopped by the chamois
hunter from taking a final leap.
The city and canton of Berne have always been noted as the most
aristocratic of the confederacy, both in laws and in the spirit of the
people. Each canton, it seems, has a different
costume:[4] That
of the Berne damsels is marked by white starched over-sleeves,
extending to the elbows, and a broad black lace ruffle stuck up over
the head, which makes them look like Peter Wilkins' flying islanders.
29th.—Like Mr. Cooper, we patronize 'Le Fauçon;' and the
Rev. Mr. Cunningham has invited me among the Anglaise to hear
the church service read in his room. The principal topic of the
day in Berne is the dispute with Louis Phillipe, which at present
looks rather squally.
Alpnach, Lake of Luzerne, 30th.—The ride from Berne to
Thun was very agreeable, notwithstanding I was obliged to take the
interieur, among some inveterate smokers. The scenery continued
to be beautiful, but very different from that we had passed a few
days since—the 'lofty heights' being in full view, but far distant.
Thun is a picturesque little village situated in an enchanting place
on the Aar, near the head of the lake of the same name, which forms
one of a series of the most charming sheets of water in Europe.
Instead of the diligence route to Luzerne, I was tempted to enjoy
the luxury of a sail over these lakes; and accordingly left Thun
yesterday morning in a little steamer, which plies on the 'Thuner
See' to Interlachen, another pretty village, situated, as its name
implies, between two lakes, Thun and Brientz. It contains several
good pensions, and is much frequented by tourists in search of health;
and well it may be; for the region round about is a paradise. 'The
air itself is a nosegay, the coarse bread a banquet, and the simple
whey of the Alps is worth all the elixirs of the apothecary.' You
may not sympathize, perhaps, in my enjoyment of this Swiss tour—would
you were here to enjoy it with me!—for I know it is tantalizing
to read of the 'fairest places of the earth,' when one must
long in vain to be in them; and yet, it is pleasant to tell those we
love of the pleasant things we have had the good fortune to fall in
with.
On our way to Interlachen, from the boat, we passed through the
queer and romantic old town of Unterseen. Interlachen is near the
Lake of Brientz; and there, with the assistance of an obliging French
gentleman, who volunteered as my interpreter, I hired a small boat
with four rowers, to take me over the lake to the town of Brientz,
a distance of ten miles. There I got 'some lunch,' and hired a
horse and guide for my luggage, to Lungern, going myself, by way
of variety, on foot, over the Brunig Alp. A violent thunder-storm,
which had closely pursued us on the lake, overtook me on the summit
of the rugged Brunig, and, at the expense of a thorough drenching,
I had a fine chance to observe the sublime commotion of the
elements; and sure enough,
——'Far along
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among,
Leaped the live thunder!'
The movements of the clouds beneath me, after the shower, were
extremely beautiful and grand; rising in detached masses, gracefully
and majestically up the sides of the mountains, and parting slowly
from their summits, or from the green vales below, like a veil which
had covered a mystery. Huge masses of rock overhang the path
in several places, threatening to tumble suddenly upon the unwary
traveller, or the cottages below; and abundant are the proofs that
'such things have been.'
I have said so much about fine prospects, that the one from the
Brunig shall only be referred to, and you may read of it elsewhere.
At Lungern, I dined, and hired a chaise to take me, solus, to the
Lake of the Four Cantons. The ride was along the banks of two
more lakes, Lungern and Sarnen, both of which are of a sea-green
color, deep as the blue of the 'Leman.' There was little to remark,
except an occasional water-fall, or the ruddy peasant girls on the
banks, spinning flax.
At sunset, after traversing four lakes, and a mountain of no mean
dimensions, since breakfast, I was received by mine host at the
'Cheval-Blanc,' at Alpnach, who is much noted, it seems, as an honest,
attentive, and eccentric Swiss publican 'of the old school.' The
hotels, be it observed, throughout Switzerland, are generally excellent.
The plain but substantial fare which they give you, among the
mountains, may be partaken of, after a ramble in those regions of
pure and bracing air, with better relish than a princely feast in
courtly halls; and in the larger towns they will spread a table d'hôte
which would do credit to Meurice, of the Rue Rivoli, or Boyden, of
the Astor House. At all the inns, visitors are expected and even
required to write in the 'Book of Chronicles' not only their name
and residence, but occupation, destination, and 'where from:' and
in the 'highland tour' they usually add 'remarks,' scraps of doggerel,
and praise or abuse of the last visited inn; such as 'Avoid the
'Epee' at Zurich;' 'Go by all means to the 'Cygne' at Luzerne.'
Italy being blockaded by cholera and quarantines, this season, its
neighbor Switzerland is more than usually swarmed with tourists;
and a good many American names may be found recorded in the
medley albums.
Luzerne, August 30.—In company with a couple of very agreeable
English gentlemen, who had just returned from Italy, we took
a boat at Alpnach, and were rowed down the Lake of the Four Cantons
to this beautiful place. This lake is one of the largest, and
certainly the most picturesque, in Switzerland, being irregular in its
shape, indented with little bays, and affording, in its whole extent,
every variety of scenery. After doubling several of its promontories,
in a sail of two hours, we landed almost on the very steps of
the favorite 'Hotel de Cygne' at Luzerne. It is a capital house,
close to the water, and as we sit at dinner, we have on one side a
fine panoramic view of the Bay of Naples, and, on the other, the
real panorama of this beautiful lake and surrounding mountains.
We dined sumptuously at the table d'hôte, and then walked out
to a garden in the suburbs to see a famous piece of sculpture from
a model by Thorwaldsen, the Swedish artist. It is a colossal lion,
pierced with a barb, cut out on the side of a hill of rock, and under
it are inscribed the names of the Swiss guards who fell in the French
revolutions of '89 and '30. It is remarkable that Swiss soldiers are
yet employed as the body-guards of the kings of France, Naples,
etc., as more trustworthy than their own people. These guards are
formally 'let out' by the Swiss government; but how such a proceeding
is compatible with national honor, I am at a loss to conceive.
There are two covered wooden bridges at Luzerne, each fourteen
hundred feet long: the interiors are adorned with curious old paintings,
of the Dutch school, comprising a regular series of scripture
subjects.
You will recollect that this is the place from whence the travellers
set out in the graphic opening scene of 'Anne of Gierstein.' It is
in the vicinity of the scenes of Tell's exploits, of the battle-field of
Sempach, and many other interesting spots. The gloomy and
'cloud-capt' brow of Mount Pilatus, where tradition says Pontius
Pilate threw himself into the lake! is a conspicuous object on one
side; and opposite, is the isolated Mount Rhigi, on the top of which
we propose to lodge to-night, as all faithful travellers here do, for
the sake of 'the most magnificent sunset and sunrise prospect which
the world affords.'
Summit of the Rhigi, September 1.—Yesterday, at eleven, A. M.,
I took boat with my companion, (an intelligent young student from
Cambridge, Eng.,) and we pushed across the lake to Kusnacht, near
William Tell's chapel, and the place where he escaped from Gesler.
Thence we proceeded without a guide, the ascent appearing to be
quite easy; but we had the luck to lose our way and lose each
other: nevertheless, we pressed forward to the goal, like Bunyan's
'Pilgrim,' tugging and climbing under an intensely hot sun, up, up,
up, every step seeming to be the last, until I for one almost gave up
in despair, when the friendly halloo! of some peasants pointed me
to the path. At length we met each other near the top, on the side
toward Altorf; and at six P. M. arrived at the inn, almost fainting
with hunger and fatigue, and well able to do justice to a good
supper.
Much as report had raised my anticipations, the view from the
Rhigi Kulm far exceeded them: yet perhaps that from some points
half-way to the summit, if not so extensive, is more pleasing and
beautiful.[5] From the top, the eye takes in too much; and large
towns and lakes appear like baby's play-houses and frog-ponds, and
much as they would from a balloon. But the grand whole is certainly
magnificent; a view of the whole of Switzerland could not be
otherwise:
'Lakes, rivers, long drawn vales, towns, hamlets, towers,
From Gothard's glacier-snows to Swabia's bowers.'
Thirteen lovely lakes, of which those of Luzerne, Zug and Zurich
are the nearest and most conspicuous; with a hundred villages
scattered along their banks. On the south, the sublime and gigantic
array of the snowy Alps of Unterwald and the Grisons, even to the
borders of Italy; while on the other hand, 'the view extends into the
very centre of Swabia, presenting a richly-colored relief, over which
the eye of the spectator roves in silent rapture, as the eagle, hovering
in mid air or from his aërie, in some isolated pinnacle of the Alps,
looks down upon the states and kingdoms scattered at his feet. The
sound of sheep-bells from the pastures, mingling with others that,
with a deeper and more distant chime, call the villagers to matins;
the smoke of the first fires, curling in light blue wreaths above their
sheltering woods; the lowing of herds, rushing to their morning pasture;
the mountain peaks, varying in tint and distinctness as the
light oversteps their summits; the glaciers, gradually changing their
snowy glare into a purple, and then a rosy glow; spires and pinnacles
catching the first ray of light, and assuming their wonted station
as land-marks in the scene; sails, half in shade and half in sunshine,
skimming the lakes with their rural produce and population; the
Alpine horn, pealing its signals from the pastoral bergs around; the
pilgrim-troop, with solemn chant and motley costume, bringing their
donations to the confessional of 'Our Lady;' the screams of the
vulture in pursuit of his prey, and many other sights and sounds
which it would be tedious to enumerate, strike the eye and imagination
of the stranger so forcibly, that he feels for a time as if transported
into the mysteries of a new world.'
This is in the early morning; but the most beautiful sight this
evening was a sea of clouds resting on the minor hills, far beneath us,
the peaks just peeping above, like so many little islands in the ocean.
Bodies of vapor also hung, like a canopy, over a part of the lakes;
but with us the sky was perfectly clear, and the sun went down in
cloudless glory; and when the last morsel disappeared, the Germans
of the party doffed their beavers, and made him a low parting bow.
Zurich, September 1.—Cooling as was the change of air on the
Rhigi, after such a warm ascent, I never felt brighter than after my
nap in that high position, five thousand seven hundred feet above
the tide. By-the-by, the announcement at nine, of 'La lune! la
lune!' produced a rush from the supper table, but the keen, bracing
atmosphere soon compelled the ladies to retreat to their rooms.
At 'four-and-a-half,' we were roused from our slumbers by a 'trumpet's
martial sound,' announcing the approach of the 'king of day.'
It was beautiful to watch the changing tints of the sky, for an hour
before the sun appeared. Not a cloud was to be seen in the horizon,
for we were far above them; but when the sun's dazzling rays began
to be reflected on the hill-tops, and on the sea of vapor beneath us,
and the mists began to roll away from over the lakes, gradually disclosing
their varied outline, or lifting the canopy from the quiet
towns, the scene was truly exquisite to look upon.
I left the 'Kulm' alone, at six, and came down in an hour and a
half, on the side toward Goldau. This is the village that was destroyed
in 1806, by the fall of a part of Mount Rossberg, when nearly
five hundred persons, and property to the amount of half a million,
were suddenly buried under a mass of earth, which our Mr. Cooper
ascertained to be equal in bulk to all the buildings in New-York put
together![6]
From thence I walked along the banks of the Zuder
See, to the curious old town of Zug. This lake is nine miles long.
The road on its banks is lined with fruit trees, and I filled my pockets
with nice fresh prunes for the gathering. Blackberries in profusion
are there also. It was another delicious day, and I experienced none
of the miseries so elegantly described, à la Wordsworth, in the Album
at Alpnach:
'I wandered 'midst the untrodden ways
Beside the banks of Zug;
And there I met with scores of fleas,
And there with many a bug,' etc.
There was ringing of bells, and firing of cannon, which made a tremendous
echo across the lake, but for what cause I did not learn.
At Zug I got dinner, and a direction to a by-path 'across lots' of potatoe-fields
to Horgern, on the Zurich See, where I was to take the
steam-boat to this place. I was alone, and not a soul on the way could
speak any thing but vulgar German. I was stared at as if from
the clouds; and albeit not conscious, like the third Richard, of any
special deformity, yet,
'As I passed, the dogs did bark at me.'
At one village, a cur at the first house commenced the salute,
which was continued to the last, by every
'Mongrel, puppy, whelp, and hound,
And cur of low degree.'
The folks did not know what I meant by Horgern, because I did
not roll it out with their horrid nasal pronunciation. I stopped to fill
my flask at a spring, and had the luck to learn of a farmer that I was
going just the wrong way. At length, after achieving another mountain,
a splendid landscape was spread out before me; the beautiful
Lake of Zurich, bordered with vineyards, and neat villages, flanked
by another range of snow-capped Alps. With staff in hand, and
knapsack on back, as I approached
'The margin of fair Zurich's waters,'
I met a posse of 'fair Zurich's daughters,' and of course doffed my
beaver to the fairest, whereat they were all vastly tickled, and perhaps
a little jealous of the 'favored one' (a-hem!) but bon jour, or
'alack-well-a-day,' was all I could say, so I proceeded to the 'margin,'
found there was no steam-boat, hired a boat, took in a lady, who
applied for a passage, and pushed off for Zurich. It was a lovely
afternoon, and as pretty a sail as I have yet had. I had this morning
seen the sun rise from the summit of the Rhigi; and now, after walking
thirty-five miles in nine hours, under his hottest beams, I saw him
set on the Lake of Zurich. This lake is nearly twenty miles long.
As we came near the town, we passed several charming pleasure-gardens,
on the very margin of the water. Zurich is situated much
like Geneva, being built on both sides of the rapid stream which
flows out at the head of the lake. It is quite a large and city-like
place, and evidently a flourishing one. I saw several large buildings
in the course of erection. The walks and rides in its environs, and
the sail on its waters, are delightful in the extreme.
It was eight o'clock, P. M., when my boatmen landed me on the
dock, and it was with no little trouble that I found the Gastoff Zum
Schwardt, or Hotel de L'Epèe, for my pronunciation of the name
would not pass. It is a good inn, near the lake, but always full, and
very dear. Mine host politely gave me a ticket for the town museum
and reading-room. I had sent my luggage here by diligence from
Luzerne, and expected to meet my Rhigi companion; but he does
not appear, and I must proceed alone to the Rhine and Germany,
'unknowing and unknown.'
Schaffhausen, September 2. * * * In the ride to this place,
I had my first glimpse of the Rhine, at the village of Eglisan; and
now I have been out to see the celebrated Falls of the Rhine,
near Schaffhausen. I came to them from above, and was disappointed;
but I found the right view is from the bend, on the other side. The
falls are certainly beautiful and picturesque, but not very grand or
marvellous. If the falls even of the Androscoggin at good old Brunswick
were in Europe, they would be quite a 'lion' in their way.
Having now 'done Switzerland,' you may ask, 'Have we not
scenery at home, equal to any in that land of wonders?' And, at the
risk, as Mr. Cooper says, of being called unpatriotic and 'spoiled by
travelling,' I must say no—at least so far as my knowledge goes.
The 'Notch' at the White Mountains is equal in wildness and grandeur
to any scenery in Scotland; of course it exceeds any in England,
and probably, the rest of Europe, which is saying a good deal; but
Swiss scenery, i.e., among the higher Alps, you must bear in mind is
on a vastly larger scale than either. Think of mountains two or three
times as high as Mount Washington, in some cases rising almost perpendicularly,
or overhanging valleys eight or ten thousand feet below,
their summits tapering off in fantastic shapes, and pyramids of
rock. It is scenery of a different character, probably, from any other;
unique in its wild sublimity. So also with extensive prospects. Our
Catskill Mountain House is scarcely half as high as the Rhigi Kulm,
and as to the relative merits and variety of the view, I would again
refer you to Mr. Cooper's comparison. But with these exceptions,
we need not go abroad to discover 'the beauties of nature.' Our
rivers and river scenery are as much superior to those of Europe as
Niagara is to the Falls of Trenton: even the far-famed Rhine, if I may
judge from this portion of it, is not worthy to be named with the
Connecticut, far less with our noble Hudson.
The Swiss views, recently published, with letter press by Dr.
Beattie, are very correct as well as beautiful specimens of art. They
will give you a much better notion of the country than any book I
know of. You will perceive I visited most of the originals, having
passed through the cantons of Geneva, Wallis, Waadt, Freyburg,
Berne, Luzerne, Unterwalden, Schwyz, Zug, Zurich, and Schaffhausen,
beside an excursion to Savoy and Piedmont. How much
Knowles' Mariana says in the simple exclamation;
'Switzerland is a dear country—Switzerland!'
The name will always recall to me many pleasant associations.
I am not a little puzzled in choosing my route through Germany.
I desire to go through the Tyrol to Bavaria, Munich, Prague, and
Dresden; but it is a long tour, and little travelled. 'The Glyptique'
collection of the fine arts at Munich, and the great Dresden Gallery,
are doubtless worthy of a visit; but on the whole, I think I shall content
myself with the 'sights' of Frankfort, Leipsic, Mayence, the
sail down the Rhine to Coblentz and Cologne, and thence to Aix la
Chapelle, and the cities of Belgium.
GERMANY—THE RHINE.
Carlsrhue, Duchy of Baden, September 5.—I was somewhat
amused by a good-looking Irish gentleman, who, after paying some
pretty sensible compliments to the flavor of the bon vins of mine
host at Schaffhausen, very kindly offered me his confidence and friendship,
'free gratis for nothing,' and proposed a walk to the falls, observing
by the way, while telling me this, that, and the other, in the
between-you-and-me sort of a way, that a rascal, whom he had unsuspectingly
made his bosom friend and room-mate at Aix-la-Chapelle,
had, with equal good nature, very benevolently relieved him of
the care of his purse and gold watch. Poor Pat! I fear he was in
a fair way to be operated upon again, with equal efficacy.
Schaffhausen is a queer old Germanized town, quiet and dull. The
Hibernian and myself were the only guests at the principal hotel. I
had another dreary night-ride from thence to the frontier of this
duchy, where passports and luggage were duly inspected. At sunset,
I arrived at Offenbourg, a decent town, where I found a very
nice inn, kept by a nice man, who deals in wines and broken English.
He entertained me excellently well, and sent me on to this place
this morning in an extra. We stopped to dine at a town, which I
took for our ultimatum, and leisurely disposed myself accordingly,
when lo! by mere accident, I observed the carriage starting off, with
my portmanteaus safely behind. 'Ou allez vous?'—'à Carlsrhue!'
So much for being among people of a strange tongue.
There seemed to be a uniformity of costume in several of the
towns. Red vests and breeches and broad-brimmed, hats, were
universal among men and boys; i.e., of the peasantry only, for they
are a distinct order of beings on the continent. The most laborious
part of farming, etc., is performed by the women; the 'fair sex' here
are expected to hold the plough, rake the hay, and dig the potatoes.
What brutes must the men be!
Carlsrhue, the duke of Baden's capital and residence, is one of
the neatest towns I have seen on the continent. The streets are
broad, straight, and well-paved, and the buildings all of stone, painted
cream-color. The chateau of the duke is in the form of a crescent,
opposite a block of private houses in similar style, thus making an
elegant circle, with a garden and orangery in the centre. In the rear
of the chateau, is an extensive hunting-park. The whole of this
duchy appears to be one level plain, not specially fertile; and there
is little to remark in riding over it, except the extensive squadrons
of geese, tended by the lasses like a flock of sheep, and the battalions
of ganders, in the shape of the duke's soldiers.
Our introduction to his Serene Lowness, the Rhine, did not give us
the most favorable impression of his majesty. If one should see
that part of the river between Switzerland and Mayence, and no
more, he would pronounce its far-famed beauties all a joke. It
passes here through this flat uninteresting duchy, the banks affording
nothing more attractive than pine bushes, six feet high; and the
river itself has lost its primitive attraction at Schaffhausen, for here
it is of a brown muddy color, instead of its once transparent green.
Occasionally, however, the monotony of the shores is relieved by a
pretty town, which, the atmosphere being clear, and the view unobstructed,
may be seen from a great distance. Among others, we
passed Spires and Worms, noted for their cathedrals, which are very
conspicuous objects from the river; and Manheim, a handsome town,
with a fine palace, (now chiefly in ruins,) in the midst of a beautiful
park. Near Manheim is Heidelberg, celebrated for its university,
which is the oldest in Germany. These places are in the 'Grand
Duchy' of Hesse-Darmstadt, which adjoins that of Baden. The
boat stopped a short time at Manheim, and we went on shore to see
the palace.
It was dusk when we came in sight of the famous and very pretty
town of Mayence, our steamer passing through the bridge of boats
over the Rhine, which was promptly opened to admit it. The spires,
and domes of the town, as seen from the river, give it quite an
imposing appearance. We stepped on the quay, with very little
bustle, and without any obstruction or examination. The hotels
near the river were all full, but we found good lodgings at the
'Trois Courounes' in the interior. I shall proceed to-morrow to
Frankfort and Leipsic, with the intention of returning here to take
the Rhine to Cologne.
Frankfort on the Maine, September 7.—The ride from Mayence
to this city occupied three hours and a half. The approach
to Frankfort is not remarkable, except for the beautiful grounds and
gardens laid out on the site of the ancient walls and fortifications in
the environs. Frankfort, you know, is one of the four free cities of
Germany,[7] (Hanse-Towns,) and is entirely independent of any other
state, being a co-equal member of the Germanic confederation, and
important also as the seat of the Diet. Some parts of the city are
very handsome, and the whole has an air of busy prosperity: it seems
to be very like Paris, on a smaller scale. The hotels are renowned
for their size and excellence; and as the great semi-annual Fair is in
operation, they are at present abundantly well patronized. This
Fair is quite an important affair to the city: all the public squares,
quays, etc., are filled with temporary stalls and 'magazines' of articles,
manufactured in different parts of Germany, the merchant
announcing himself 'from Berlin,' or Dresden, or Leipsic. They
often bring samples, only, of their wares, and from them make extensive
'package sales.' I should think that one half, at least, of these
were filled with pipes—a fair illustration of the smoking propensities
of the Germans. These pipes are long and clumsy, but most of them
are very prettily ornamented. The Germans are verily inveterate
lovers of the weed. They smoke every where and on all occasions;
the toll-keeper puffs away while he opens the gate, the conducteur,
regulating the diligence, the shop-keeper, while he makes your bill.
All classes and degrees are alike in this respect—the duke, the
'professor,' the peasant. The charms of the practice are especially
exemplified in the interior of a crowded diligence on a hot day,
when three fourths of the passengers are doing their best to suffocate
one another with fumes of smoke from pipes, and brimstone
from matches. Remonstrance from a novice in the science is vain,
for though otherwise polite and obliging, they seem to think smoking
so much a matter of course, to prize it above their meat and drink,
even above their wine, that they do not imagine it can be disagreeable.
The river Maine, which falls into the Rhine at Mayence, or Mainz,
is an insignificant stream, only navigable by flat boats which go down
with the current, and are drawn up by horses, as in canals. Frankfort
is built on both sides of the river, but the greater part is on the
north. The quays are broad, and afford a handsome architectural display,
the buildings being all of a light cream color, like those of the
French capital. I observed no very splendid public buildings, but
the principal street, containing several of the great hotels, is very
spacious and stately. In the Hotel de Ville is preserved, among
other archives, the original of the celebrated 'Golden Bull.'
Leipsic, September 10.—Here am I, in the very heart of Germany,
in the centre of Europe, within ten hours' ride of Dresden, one day
of Berlin, two of Prague, three of Munich, four of Warsaw, ten of
St. Petersburgh, and a few more of Rome, Constantinople, and Jerusalem,
all of which I would fain honor with a visit, did time and
the 'needful' permit; at present, however, this will be my ultimatum,
and to-morrow I shall commence what the Frenchman said Napoleon
did, after the memorable battle of this same Leipsic, not a
retreat, but a mouvement retrograde toward home. My journeyings
will now be toward the setting instead of the rising sun.
The ride to this city proved, as I expected, extremely tedious and
disagreeable. We left Frankfort at half past nine, P. M., and were
forty-one hours, including two nights, on the way; the distance being
two hundred and twenty miles. I was again doomed to the interieur,
amid five smokers, as usual, neither of whom could speak English
or French; and the idea of the mistakes and vexations to which my
solitary ignorance exposed me, was any thing but comfortable. I
escaped, however, with nothing worse than the loss of a cloak in the
Frankfort diligence; for on coming to the Prussian dominions, we
were transferred to a respectable vehicle, on which was inscribed:
'Konig. Preuss,
Schnell Post.'
(Query, mail or snail? It does not merit the latter appellation so
well as some of the French, to say the least.) The public conveyances
on the continent are all driven by a postillion, in a kind of
livery, with 'seven league boots,' a trumpet with tawdry tassels, and
a leathern hat: he always rides the 'nigh' horse, and never goes
more than one post, as each 'team' has its own postillion. Every
diligence is superintended by a conducteur, who has the best seat in
the coupé, but does nothing himself, except delivering the mails and
small parcels on the way. The French and Swiss conducteurs are
often surly and uncivil, but those in Prussia are very attentive, good-looking,
and even well-educated. The most learned doctors of the
university will converse with them on familiar terms, with deference
and respect.
There is evidently much less exclusiveness in grades, and less
show of haughty superiority in the wealthy, and even the noble, in
these despotic countries, than in liberal and enlightened England.
From the Grand Duke downward, it is usual to give a bow and a
'bon jour,' or 'adieu,' to the meanest servant in return for the same
salutations: and these courtesies certainly do not seem to be misconstrued
into that familiarity which breeds contempt, but rather to
strengthen respect and attachment to the superior.
In coming to Leipsic from Switzerland, I passed through no less
than eight independent states and principalities, viz.: the 'Grand
Duchies' of Baden, Hesse-Darmstadt, Saxe-Weimar, Saxe-Gotha,
Hesse-Cassel, the free city of Frankfort, and the kingdoms of
Prussia and Saxony. The boundaries of these great-little duchies
are marked by a plain stone on the way-side, inscribed, 'Weimar,'
'Gotha,' etc., as the case may be. I observed nothing else to indicate
that the country was governed by so many different masters.
There is nothing on the route deserving the name of scenery: even
a gentle hill to relieve the dull, tame prospect of long and often
barren plains, occurs but seldom. Of the towns I shall see more on
my return.
I was sorry to find that the noted book-publisher, Mr. Tauchnitz,
Senior, died of apoplexy, very suddenly, a few months since. His
son, who continues the business, is a very courteous and intelligent
man, and speaks English fluently. He received me very kindly, and
invited me to dine with him at twelve o'clock, M.! In England, I
was several times invited to dine at seven, P. M. The usual dinner
hour at hotels in Germany is one.
Before dinner, Mr. T. escorted me to the lions. In the principal
Lutheran church, I was a little surprised to see paintings, altars and
images!—things opposed, as I thought, to the very spirit of Lutheranism.
The 'booksellers' have just completed a handsome 'Exchange,'
where the brethren of the 'trade' from all parts of Germany assemble
semi-annually, at the Easter and Michaelmas fairs, to settle
accounts, and make sales of new books, etc., by sample. The book-trade
is carried on here very extensively, and with a great deal of
system. Leipsic is the head-quarters for the business in all the German
states, and all publishers in other places have their agents here.
You will be surprised, perhaps, at the fact, that the number of new
books published annually in Germany, is greater than all issued during
the same time in Great Britain and France put together.[8] What
a nation of book-makers! What a mass of intellect in active exercise!
In a country not much exceeding in extent the single state of
New-York, there are six thousand new works, comprising nine millions
of volumes, printed every year, beside reprints of old works,
and all pamphlets and periodicals! One would think the Germans
ought to be a learned people!
Mr. Tauchnitz's establishment is one of the most extensive in the
trade. He showed me the stereotype plates of his well-known editions
of the Greek and Latin classics, of which he publishes a complete
series, in an economical, pure text form, one set filling a box
twenty inches square. So you may easily ascertain the exact bulk of
all the intellect of antiquity!
The Leipsic University, which is one of the oldest in Germany, is
also about to occupy a neat and extensive edifice just completed.
The ancient fortifications of Leipsic, like those of Frankfort, have
been removed, and the space they occupied is laid out in gardens and
public promenades; a change decidedly for the better, as every
peaceable man will say.[9] As to beauty of architecture, this city has
little remarkable; the buildings are mostly antique and uncouth, and
the streets narrow, and without side-walks.
At dinner to-day, at Mr. ——, the second dish consisted of thin
slices of two sorts of fish, literally raw. It seemed to be regarded
as a rare delicacy, but I could not stretch my politeness enough to do
justice to it. The dinner, otherwise, was excellent. You know the
old man who made the 'Bubbles from the Brunens,' feelingly describes
his consternation at the never-ending courses of a German public
table; but he does not mention two-thirds of the dishes I have tasted
at a single sitting. The feast commences, all the world over, with
soup; then comes the dry soup-meat, 'which a Grosvenor-Square
cat would not touch with his whiskers!' but which is nevertheless
rendered quite palatable by a highly-seasoned gravy; then, cutlets,
omelets, and messes of various sorts; followed by poultry, wild fowls,
beef, etc.; fifthly, pudding, which with us is a sign that the meat is
disposed of; but lo! 'sixthly and lastly' comes a huge quarter of
veal, roast chickens, young lobsters, salad, etc.; seventhly, tarts and
confectionary; 'and, to conclude, a dessert of prunes, grapes,
peaches, cakes, etc., the whole capped by sundry nibbles at a fair,
round cheese, or peradventure, as to-day, with coffee, in Lilliputian
cups, which I took for baby's play-things. Verily, one has a chance
of finding something to his taste in this variety.
After dinner, Mr. Tauchnitz ordered his barouche, with two beautiful
bays, and a footman in livery, (Mr. T. is a book-seller,) and we
rode out to the field of the memorable battle of 1813, about a mile
from the town. The whole vicinity of Leipsic, for several miles, is
one vast plain, which has always been, and probably will continue to
be, the theatre of battles, when the nations of Europe see fit to fight
at all. We walked to a slight elevation, where Napoleon had his
head-quarters during the battle. The French had garrisoned the
town for six years previous; consequently they had their choice of
position. Napoleon had made a mouvement retrograde from Dresden,
after giving up his second expedition to Russia; he was followed by
the allied army, and here they met. Three days' hard fighting, and
the slaughter of twenty thousand men, was the consequence. The
French were routed; but their possession of the town enabled them
to proceed in their retrograde toward Frankfort, (the same route I
had come,) and on the fourth day the allies entered Leipsic. Mr. T.
was on the field during the fight, and he gave me a graphic description
of it. 'Here stood Blucher, with his Prussians; there, Prince
Swartzenberg and the Austrians.' What a scene of horror must that
field have been, when twenty thousand human beings lay there,
bloody corpses, and half as many more had fallen, wounded and mangled,
sighing for death as a relief from their misery!
Otho, the young king of Greece, is now in Leipsic on a visit. He
is shortly to be married to a German princess, whose name I have
forgotten.
Mayence, Sept. 13.—At six, P. M., on the tenth, I was again in the
diligence. There were but three passengers; one of them asked
me in German to sit with him in the interior, but having persuaded
him in English into a coupé seat, he complacently remarked that he
was pretty sure, from the first, that I was English. I declined the
honor, with equal good nature. 'Scotch?' No. 'Irish?' No.
He looked puzzled. 'You must have spoken English from childhood?'
'Yes. I never spoke any other language.' 'Perhaps you
have resided some time in England?' Never was there but three
months.' Curious whether he would discover me, I kept mum.
'From the East Indies?' No. 'But you are a British subject?'
Oh, no. I acknowledge no king whatever.
'South America?'(!) No.
And, strange to say, I was the first, after all, to hint that there was
a republic usually called the United States of America. It did not
occur to him, at the moment, that the English language was known
to some extent in 'our country;' but singularly enough, when the
happy land was mentioned, I found him far from being ignorant of it.
He had read of our 'manners' from his own Duke of Saxe-Weimar
down to Captain Hall and the Trollope; and he was now writing a
critical essay on American poetry. In short, he was Dr. O. L. B.
Wolff, professor of belles-lettres in the University of Jena; the
author, you will recollect, of the History of German Literature in
the London Athenæum, and of other essays which have made his name
well known with us. He seemed a good deal interested in our literature,
and we beguiled the hours far into the night, in learned talk,
parting near the battle-field of Jena, with mutual promises of future
correspondence.
The road lies over several memorable fields. Near Lutzen, they
pointed to a stone, 'Voila la, Gustave tombeau!' It was the spot
where the 'Great Gustavus' Adolphus fell, in the thirty years' war.
We passed the house where Charles XII. of Sweden signed his
treaty with the Elector of Saxony. At Erfurt is the cell where Martin
Luther lived when he was an Augustine friar. At Gotha, Weimar,
Eisenbach, and Fulda, the capitals of their respective duchies,
are the 'chateaux de residence.'
The approaches to most of the continental towns are through long
avenues, shaded by elms or poplars, extending sometimes a couple of
miles. One naturally looks for something handsome, after passing
such an imposing portal; but it does not always follow. One of the
finest of these triumphal arches leads to a filthy hamlet, which would
disgrace our backwoods.
They have a peculiar costume, at one of these towns; but in general,
there is no costume in Germany. Both at Frankfort and Leipsic,
I noticed two remarkable items, the Jews and the pretty girls.
The Jews wear long black gowns and girdles, with beards of nearly
equal length. They seem to be here a distinct and 'peculiar people.'
As to the German ladies, there is certainly more beauty among
them than I have seen elsewhere in Europe.
My second entrance into Frankfort was from a better point of
view, crossing the stone bridge over the Main. I had been riding
four nights, sans sleep, and in the vulgar phrase, was 'quite done up.'
It was of course delightful to find that the 'fair' had so thoroughly
filled the domicils of every publican in the place, that not a nook or
a corner in all those immense hotels was to be had for love or money.
I wandered here and there, houseless and alone, till dusk, with a fair
prospect of a loafer-like lodging in the street! This was actually
the only alternative to going off at ten, P. M., to Mayence. There
were probably at least ten thousand strangers in the place at that
moment.
The entrance into Mayence, at one o'clock at night, was quite impressive.
On the opposite side of the river, in Cassel, is an extensive
military establishment, through the gates and court of which we had
to pass. The postillion sounded a martial air on his trumpet, and
the sentinel, opening the ponderous gates, admitted us to the bridge
of boats on which we crossed the Rhine to the city. Every thing
was still and quiet, but our rumbling diligence; the stars and the
lights of the town were looking at their portraits in the river. At
the city portals, another blast of the trumpet[10] procured us admission,
but no living thing was to be seen, except the military 'guardians
of the night.'
To-day it rains torrents. So I will merely tell you, in guide-book
style, that Mayence, as well as Cologne, owes its origin to the Romans,
and was occasionally the residence of some of the emperors. The
city has also been an electorate of the German empire, but at present
it belongs to Prussia; and it is remarkable, that with a population
of thirty-two thousand, it has a garrison of twelve thousand soldiers.
It claims the honor of being the birth-place of Guttenberg, one,
at least, of the inventors of printing, of whom there is a statue in one
of the squares. I have been to see the cathedral, noted only for antiquity,
and for the numerous monuments and statues of church dignitaries
in the interior.
Coblentz, (on the Rhine,) September.—The steam-boat left the
quay at Mayence this morning at six, with about one hundred passengers,
mostly English, on their homeward retreat. For two or
three miles, the banks of the river continued to be low and tame.
We passed the palace of the Grand Duke of Nassau, a fine edifice,
near the river The classical Brunnens of Langen-Schwalbach are
a few miles in the interior.
We were this day to see the only interesting part of the 'glorious
Rhine,' that between Mayence and Cologne. Along here, there are
a plenty of little islands, and the banks of the river abound with
picturesque rocky crags, capped by ruins of castles, and relieved
here and there by a green meadow, a vineyard, or a neat village.
Johannisberg, a chateau belonging to Prince Metternich, is one of
the first from Mayence. This estate has fifty-five acres of vine-grounds,
from whence comes the most celebrated of the Rhenish
wines. Speaking of Metternich, I need not remind you of his
portraiture as 'Beckendorf,' in that unique production, 'Vivian
Grey.' Then we passed the ruins of Klopp and Ehrenfels,[11]
Vantsberg castle, at present occupied, from which we were saluted
with a gun; the ruins of Falkenberg, Guttenfels, Schöenberg, and
the rocks of 'the Seven Sisters' in the
river;[12] Sternberg and Liebenstein,
'the Brothers,' etc., all famed by many a pathetic legend.
There are also the pretty villages of Rudesheim, Geisenheim, Bingen,
Oberwesel, Saint Goar, and others, too tedious to mention;
and the rock of Lureley, with an echo which repeats seven times.
I am now before the castle of Ehrenbreitstein, the strongest fortress
in Europe, built on a rocky elevation, commanding the river for
several miles. The city of Coblentz, nearly opposite, and connected
with it by a floating bridge, is strongly fortified, and garrisoned by
five thousand Prussian soldiers. It was founded by Drusus, the Roman
general, thirteen years before Christ.
Cologne, 14th.—I am now in the ancient and honorable city of
'Les Trois Rois,' and of the eleven thousand virgins.
On leaving Coblentz, the shores are again 'flat and stale,' (though
perhaps not 'unprofitable' to the vinters,) until thou comest unto
Remagen, when there are a few miles of the picturesque, and then
the scenery of the Rhine is finished. On the score of natural beauty,
it would take a good many Rhines to make a Hudson; but, as Willis
says, here we are constantly reminded of the past; history, tradition,
and song, have given every thing a charm, and even these
rough old ruins are tinted with a couleur de rose; but amidst the
hills, and streams, and forests, of the so-called new world, our thoughts
stretch forward to the future. We have already the rich material,
and perhaps the time will come when Europe may not claim superiority,
even in works of art, or in historical associations and reminiscences;
albeit we have no princely palaces or baronical strongholds,
and, thanks to our democratic rulers! we are in no immediate
danger of them.
But the Rhine is interesting—intensely so; and I can only regret,
my dear ——, that you are not here to share with me this long-wished
for pleasure.
'The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the wide and winding Rhine,
Whose breast of waters broadly swells
Between the banks which bear the vine,
And hills all rich with blossom'd trees,
And fields which promise corn and wine,
And scatter'd cities crowning these,
Whose far white walls along them shine,
Have strew'd a scene which I should see
With double joy, wert thou with me.
'And peasant girls with deep blue eyes,
And hands which offer early flowers,
Walk smiling o'er this paradise;
Above, the frequent feudal towers
Through green leaves lift their walls of gray,
And many a rock which steeply lowers,
And noble arch in proud decay,
Look o'er this vale of vintage-bowers;
But one thing want these banks of Rhine—
Thy gentle hand to clasp in mine.
'The river nobly foams and flows,
The charm of this enchanted ground,
And all its thousand turns disclose
Some fresher beauty varying round;
The haughtiest breast its wish might bound
Through life to dwell delighted here;
Nor could on earth a spot be found
To nature and to me more dear,
Could thy dear eyes, in following mine,
Still sweeten more these banks of Rhine.'
If misery loves company, as the proverb says, why should not
happiness be also sociably disposed? There is to me a special loneliness
in being in these regions of song, with a crowd of strangers,
but with no 'congenial spirit' who in after days would recall to us
the fond recollection of happy hours passed together in the distant
land; who with a single word might bring vividly before us a glowing
panorama of scenes remembered as a dream. And is there not
as much or more enjoyment in these remembrances, than in the
'first impression?'
Beside the Drachenfels, there are a score of ruins this side of
Coblentz, such as Rolandzeck, Godesberg, and other hard names;
and we also passed the pretty town of Bonn, the seat of an ancient
and well-endowed university. From one of the castles, near the
river, we were saluted with three cheers by the garrison.
To-morrow I shall write from Aix-la-Chapelle, for here I must
say, albeit not in the Byronic vein,
'Adieu to thee, fair Rhine! How long delighted
The stranger fain would linger on his way;
Thine is a scene alike where souls united,
Or lonely Contemplation thus might stray;
And could the ceaseless vultures cease to prey
On self-condemning bosoms, it were here,
Where nature, not too sombre nor too gay,
Wild, but not rude, awful, but not austere,
Is to the mellow earth as autumn to the year.'