IN the dear, naughty memoirs of Madame de Brillaye, not inaptly named
by the author the “Journal of a Wicked Old Woman,” you remember that
scene in the pleasaunce at Château Vernot, where the turf was like
fairy velvet and the trees were tortured into all manner of shapes
unarboreal,—she liked to have her trees dressed, she said,—“There is
something indecent in great naked branches sprawling the good God knows
where.” The little old lady is sitting with her great, old-ivory cane
across her knees; she rolls it back and forth with her little old-ivory
hands, while she scolds Aimée—as always. Aimée has just come through
that brisk little encounter of hers with de Brontignac, and seems
to have allowed her raiment to look a little battle-worn. “Go dress
yourself, baby,” cries Madame Great-Aunt. “Will you let your very laces
whimper? Into your rose velvet brocade, and your chin will be jerked
up as if by a string. Gowns have healed more hearts than they’ve ever
broken: the second, men’s; the first, women’s. Now you think you have a
soul; when you are my age, you will know that women are not souls, but
dresses. I look back; my history is the history of my gowns; undressed,
I do not exist; my clothes are myself.” (A few lines above I used the
word “remember,” but merely for the sake of an effective start-off.
Madame and her memoirs do not exist outside of this paragraph. I am not
the first to perpetrate a spurious quotation; I am merely the first to
confess it. To proceed.) It is not the first time that the little old
de Brillaye has set me thinking. Is she true in this passage, or merely
epigrammatic? If my history is the history of my clothes, let me so
study it out, formulate, as it were, the meditations of the pupa upon
its successive integumenta. Yet the figure is infelicitous. In fact, the
chrysalis image is not over-pretty as regards this side of eternity:
pupa suggests the pulpy tenantry of the chestnut; this worminess may be
liturgical, but it is unpleasant, is opposed to that sociability with
one’s self which makes life entertaining; there is nothing chat-worthy
in a worm. Be it granted me to regard these accidental rags of lawn
or wool or silk I find adherent, these hardly less transitory hands
and feet, this hardly more durable incasing occipital, not as a worm
incarcerate, but with the detachment and uplift of the incipient
butterfly.
Why not my philosophy of my clothes,—the pronoun italicized,
meaning not Teufelsdröckh’s, but my own, both the clothes and the
philosophy? Let me here and now make some effort toward system and
definition, toward order out of chaos, in that long chapter in a woman’s
story, my lady’s wardrobe. How far have these successive wrappings
around and prankings out of diverse colors and tissues that are to my
fellow passengers labels of my lone pilgrim soul, stating of what age,
sex, nation, education, and caste I may be,—how far have these clothes
of mine served for triumph or undoing in my spiritual history, the
life-history of this “celestial amphibian,” myself?
The clothes of babyhood first. It is a strong-minded adult who does not
grow sentimental in regarding the garments of his infancy,—those caps
and bibs and socks reminding us of the wabbling heads, the aching gums,
the simian feet, of the days when we, for all our present arrogance of
maturity, were the sport of colic and nutritive experiment.
How explain the repugnance of the newly born to clothing, the birth-wail
that pleads for the sincerity of the nude, protests against the
cloakings of convention? Strange paradox that the first emotion of
the baby soul should be bitterness against all those contrivances of
decency, those hemstitched linens and embroidered flannels, through
which the mother heart eased its brooding love. The little pink,
squirming creature, fresh out of eternity, cannot be too quickly
incased in the wrappings of finite human care. That is why we are so
long in seeing ourselves as we really are; all the clothes and the
conventions were ready for us; before we had a glimpse at ourselves we
were popped into them; it is a merciful long while before we are old
enough to undress sufficiently to discover, away inside, the little shy
soul-thing, the naked ego, with its eerie eyes.
Thus it is that when I first find myself in those early, misty recesses
I see myself all dressed, dressed for company inspection; I am a little
girl wearing a crispness of brown curl and a crispness of white muslin;
I wear white stockings and Burt’s shoes.—I recognize, also, quite in
the same way, as enveloping facts, without which I may not present
myself unclothed to my fellows, that I have a peppery, passionate
temper, and an imagination,—that is what seeing people in void air and
talking to them is called. Thus clad and ticketed, I go pattering along
the pilgrimage.
How little clothes mattered then! All spun about with fairy films and
the witchery of talking trees and singing winds, I did not remember my
clothes. But at times clothes broke in abruptly on my unconsciousness. I
well remember a certain mitten. It was a brown mitten on my left hand.
My mother and I were walking down a flight of stone steps. I slipped;
my mother caught my hand, retained, not it, but the mitten, and I
bumped unimpeded to the bottom. My baby resentment against that mitten
endured long. It was a surprise, a disappointment, this treachery of
the accepted; so my clothes were not to be trusted; it was well to keep
half an eye on them. The mitten episode marks a step in my spiritual
adjustment; my clothes might at any moment go back on me. It is a lesson
I have not yet found it safe to unlearn.
In those days there was a pleasant interest attached to the Burt’s
shoes,—not when new and shiny, but later, when they had become well
worn. Some unexpected morning I would espy a peering bit of white
stocking looking out from the blackness of the leather toe. The hole
being not yet so large or so alarming as the cobbler’s charges, a piece
of black silk was adjusted over the stocking, the foot deftly slipped
into the shoe, a dash of blacking applied to the whole, and behold only
mother and I knew the difference.
Penury as such was not yet known to me. The consciousness of shabbiness
had not yet frayed the elbows of my soul. The device was merely
interesting, beguiling the tedium of the sanctuary, and affording
meditation on the ingenuity of mothers.
Here succeeded several years of tranquillity in my relations to my
garments, until, at the age of six, I found myself—infelix!—removed
to a town possessing a bleak climate and many woolen manufactories. It
was the custom of the house mothers to buy flannel by the piece direct
from the factory, red flannel, hot, thick, felled like a Laplander,
and the invention of Lucifer. Out of this flannel was cut a garment,
a continuous, all-embracing garment, of neuter gender, in which every
child in that town might have been observed flaming Mephistophelian-like
after the morning bath. A pattern was given to our mother.
The hair shirt—I laugh when I read! By definition the hair shirt must
have possessed geographical limits of attack, but my flannels left no
pore untickled, untortured; they heated the flesh until scarlet fever
paled into a mere pleasantry; and they soured the milk of amiability
within me forever. The rotation of the seasons reduced itself to terms
of red flannel. In the autumn, when the happy fowls and foliage alike
moulted, shed the superfluous, when bracing October set the body in
a glow, I alone of living things must be done up in flannel! And
more,—did you ever try to draw on your stocking smoothly over a red
flannel tumor at the ankle, and then attempt to button over the whole
the shoe that fitted snugly enough over nothing at all? Did you ever
tear off shoe and stocking, and, dancing red-legged and barefooted, cry
out in frenzy that you would eschew breakfast and school, aliment and
enlightenment, but never, never, never again would you wear footgear?
Thus autumn. And spring, that season of vernal bourgeoning, was the
time when I, too, like any other seedkin, slipped free of all stuffy
incasings, and could sprout and spring in air and sun, clad in blessed,
blessed muslin. I shall never forget the corroding bitterness induced
by flannels. At times they absolutely reduced me to fisticuffs with my
religion, so that filial piety, the ordaining of the seasons, and the
very catechism itself, hung in the balance of the conflict. I believe I
can hardly over-estimate the spiritual detriment done me by my flannels.
One incident of this, my first decade, I recall with mingled respect and
envy:—
“It is not now as it hath been of yore.”
“Choose,” commanded my mother, “will you have a new dress this winter or
‘St. Nicholas’ for next year?” I was stung at the implication that for
such as me there could have been a doubt of the choice. “St. Nicholas,”
of course! A magazine doth not wax old as doth a garment, and besides,
is not reading more than raiment? Alas for the high intellectuality of
eight years old! If the choice lay now between the dress and the book,
would I hug the volume and walk among my fellows gladly shabby? I would
not.
About at this same period we were visited by a family of strange
little girls. There were three of them; they stayed three days, they
changed their dresses three times a day, and they never wore the same
dress twice. We regarded them as we might have regarded the fauna of
Mars,—they were an utterly new thing. It was wonder at first, then
pity, then wonder again, for we found that they liked it! Being little
human animals even as we, they would rather be tricked out in fresh
frocks than play tag! What were we going to wear that evening, they
asked. Why, how in the world should we know? Something clean, of course.
Our visitor’s bits of frocks were embroidered, beribboned, bevelveted
in a manner simply incomprehensible. What in the world happened when
they got dirty? That visit filled me with prophetic misgivings; some
day I should have to wear stuff goods. In a vision I saw the great gulf
that separates the grown-up who cannot be put through the wash-tub
from the child who can. Horror of the unwashable! “Shades of the
prison-house,”—Oh, no!
Just here the retrospect reaches the place where the road turned; I do
not say, forked, for it was not a question of alternatives; I was a
woman-child, and I had to keep on in the only way. Hitherto my clothes
had been as much or as little myself as the down of the chick, or the
fur of the rabbit. Providence and my parents had provided my apparel
without the faintest solicitude on my part, leaving me free to attend to
my body and soul. This could not long endure. It is the era of Mother
Hubbards that bridges together the old time and the new. The Mother
Hubbard was so noteworthy, so startling, in fact, after the trimness to
which we were accustomed, this
“Robe ungirt from clasp to hem.”
It swayed with a truly Hellenic undulation like the pictures in the
mythology. I first admired, then coveted, then teased my mother into
making me one. It was finished just after dinner, and though it was
yet early for dressing, I put it on, and turned out upon the street,
which, to my disappointment, was empty of children. There I strutted,
and swelled, and waited for the others to come and see, and was exalted,
not recognizing the first shackles of my slavery. Now, first, I become
acquainted with Fashion; now, first, I regard other people’s clothes
as the most important factor in the production of my own. Too truly it
is the close of the first chapter, the end of innocence, the end of
joy, the end of sexlessness. I am irrevocably a woman: imitation and
emulation are henceforth the distinguishing motives of my costume. Now,
first, I look in the glass to see my frock, and then I look a little
higher to see that face and that mop of curls I wear, and I wonder what
colors best suit them. I look at the eyes, too, and at the secrets
they tell me, and I wonder what external clothes and conduct are most
becoming to those eyes and to that inner meshed personality they reveal.
What is becoming! The word is epitome of all that the grown-up is and
the child is not.
The period of my teens was the period when my wardrobe was continually
in abeyance upon the higher claims of my education. It was not possible
simultaneously to beautify my brain and my body. I acquiesced in the
circumstance, for the most part, with occasional fits of passionate
revolt, and more or less constant misanthropy. I blush to recall that
at one time the light which was in me turned to darkness for a year or
more, and all on account of my clothes. I found myself at a great city
school, I a shy little country waif, most curiously clad. I looked at
the clothes of my compeers, and I locked my lips and my heart against
all converse with my fellows, and I walked to the top of my classes in a
desolation of spirit that was tragic. I would have exchanged my monthly
reports with those of my most addle-pated classmate if I could have had
her clothes. Never since have I approached the intellectual achievement
of fourteen; but the shabbiness of my motives was greater than that of
my costume. The effect was not wholly evil, but I here confess that I
never should have learned Latin rules if I had been prettily dressed.
I wanted to show those stylish misses that there was no backwoods
brain under my backwoods hat—that was all! I attributed to others a
snobbishness wholly my own, and for that once clothes came perilously
near costing me all human joy in human friendship. If my wardrobe had
never bettered, I might now be a female Diogenes,—and incidentally
have furnished meteoric display for a dozen universities. My clothes
improved; I am not friendless, but dull and illiterate, and all through
the shaping destiny of dress.
This paragraph in my history yields me this much of philosophy as
regards the influence of clothes on the social relations. My dress, so
long as it be not conspicuous for disorder, disruption, or display, has
much less effect on others than on myself. But as for myself, since I am
a woman, and it is ordained of fate that I be forever subdued to what
I wear, I shall never, except when I believe myself suitably dressed,
be able to look my fellow creature in the eye with the level gaze of
conscious equality which alone gains friendship. No woman was ever so
proud as not to cringe in an ugly hat. No woman is ever so happy as not
to be made unhappy by her clothes. Let the dress reformers prattle to
the breezes,—there is no exaltation like that of knowing one’s costume
stylish, becoming, and, if possible, expensive. Only by recognizing our
limitations may we women successfully cope with them; one’s own respect
is surest guarantee of other people’s; for women self-respect is soonest
secured by clothes: therefore, O women, dress!
I have digressed from the contemplation of my girlhood, but I have not
exhausted that time, for I have not touched upon second-hand clothes or
long dresses. As a girl I was perpetually made over. I came to regard
fresh material as something almost sacrilegious. Of all gift-horses,
clothes are the most difficult not to criticize, and especially old
clothes. My prosperous cousins did not possess my complexion, my tastes,
or my figure, and yet I inevitably succeeded to their clothes, so that I
came to watch their expenditures with morbid interest, and if they asked
for my advice, the strings of my sincerity were severely strained by “a
lively sense of favors yet to come.” In such circumstances it is well
to have in the family one who is mother, dressmaker, and genius, all in
one, for only such a combination of inspiration and devotion could have
kept my head up in those days when I was always second-hand.
To be honest, am I anything else now? What else is it to be fashionable?
With brain or scissors every woman is snipping and clipping and cutting
over other people’s clothes to fit her figure; real clothes or clothes
existent only in the fashion papers or her dressmaker’s brain, but
what is the difference? Every woman wears what somebody else has worn.
What woman would wear a dress she had not first seen on another woman?
Old clothes, making over, copying, copying, copying,—dear me, how
second-hand we women are!
The years from sixteen to twenty are those years in a woman’s life
when dress becomes an ecstasy—as never afterwards. We always look in
the glass when we put on our hats, but at sixteen we look at the face,
not the hat. It is not such a bad face to look at, at sixteen, with
its eyes and lips of wonder. For some few years Heaven lets dress be a
sheer delight, not the mere sordid comfort and decency of childhood, or
the studied concealment of imperfections of maturity, but a revelation
of the new self of which we are neither unconscious nor ashamed. It is
but the working of natural laws; in the spring do not the very trees
prank themselves out in a vain glory of blossoms, do they not prink
and preen in the mirroring water, arranging their leafy tresses, and
bedecking themselves for the masculine regard of sunbeams and breezes?
So girls, and many a one quite as unconsciously. The sap stirs and the
leaf sprouts, and the stirring of the sap is a thrilling of new joy, and
the leaf is a new and beautiful thing. What is it, what am I becoming?
Look in the glass and see. That is womanhood burning in my eyes, on my
cheeks,—Oh, yes, sir, you may look, too, if you wish. When my skirts
have grown all the way down, and my braids all the way up, then there
will be coronation robes ready, and a kingdom, and a king. Now I am
only a schoolgirl, but it is all coming, coming, coming! Do you wonder
that she counts each inch on her skirt in an agony of impatience, that
she arranges her hair high on her head at night before her mirror?
Schoolgirl nonsense, and something else. Then one day it is the hour at
last,—it is the first long dress, cut to show the regal throat, trained
like a queen’s. The hair is piled up diadem-wise. The princess is ready.
The color comes and goes, the slipper taps the floor—“I am all dressed
for you. I am waiting. Come, Prince, hurry, hurry!”
But, O little Princess, it is not at all like what you think, really;
so soon your long skirts will have ceased to tickle your toes with
delight, and your coroneted tresses will seem to have grown that way.
The Prince will have come, and you will have got used to him, or he will
not have come, and you will have forgotten that you ever expected him;
the clothes of womanhood will no longer be a rapture, but an obligation
and a habit. You will find yourself wearing a personality restricted
by that thing you have somehow acquired, called a style of your own,
and restricted also by the style of all the other women in the world,
so that you will find yourself wearing those dresses only, and saying
those words only, that both yourself and others expect of you; it will
not seem a very wonderful thing to be a woman, after all. But remember,
Miss or Madam Princess, that you must still go on dressing, dressing,
dressing to the end.
What mockery to prate of the equality of the sexes when one sex
possesses the freedom of uniform, and the other is the slave of
ever-varying costume! Think of the great portion of a lifetime we
women are condemned to spend merely on keeping our sleeves in style!
Talk of our playing with scholarship or politics when we are all our
days panting disheveled after scampering Dame Fashion, who, all our
broken-winded lives, is just a little ahead! Yet dress-reform is the
first article in our creed of antipathies, and I, for one, am last of
ladies to declare myself a heretic. I am not ungrateful for the gift of
sex and species. Suppose I were a fowl of the air,—what condemnation of
hodden gray, and soul unexpressed either by vocal throat or personality
of plumage! Among things furred or feathered it is the male who dresses
and the lady who wears uniform; that it is otherwise with human beings
is due, I suppose, to some freakish bit of chivalry on the part of
the autocrat Evolution, the ring-master who puts the entire menagerie
through their tricks. No, I would not be a fowl; let me not repine; let
me at this business of dressing, pluckily.
Women are nobler than men; it is because we are purified in the fires
of more severe temptation. Man does not encounter the demoralizing
influence of the dressmaker, that creature with mouth of pins and suave
words. To what degrading subterfuge are we not reduced to get our own
way with the dressmaker, seeing with what delight and dexterity she
lifts her spurning foot against our desires! Do we presume to know
what we want to wear?—alternately she sporteth and scorneth—and yet
we lift not against her her proper scissors. She practices dark arts;
she runs an hypnotic finger along the seam, and the wrinkle is no more
seen—until the dress comes home. Lies are about her head. Her promises
are vanity, and her bills elastic as a fluted flounce. Counter-mendacity
alone can move her; the gown must be sent home, for we attend a wedding
in twenty minutes; even now the caterer “hath paced into the hall”; or
we leave for California in an hour, and even now our sleeper paws the
track. By the ways of unrighteousness alone may we be clothed, and yet
so signal is female virtue that after centuries of dressmakers we are
still unscathed in our integrity, and are still the church-goers of the
species.
There is something stirring to contemplate in woman’s devotion to
dress,—to see how we lay down health and comfort, and clamber up and
frizzle for a lifetime on the altar of the æsthetic. That is what our
dressing is to us,—an art and an aspiration. If our sex doffed its
radiance, and did on “blacks,” what loss to popular culture! What of the
universal hunger for color and form if so many curiosities of craft, so
many animated works of art no longer whisked about the streets of the
world?
For another reason, also, we are preoccupied of our costume,—our
invincible frankness; for we would have our clothes the expression of
our souls. With what fondness we cling to the frock that suits us! Such
a bundle of subtleties is woman that words are too gross—a black coat
and trousers an insincerity—for the hundred shades of shifting color
and form that we are inside. Though it take half our life, let us be
true to our clothes, our clothes to us; let the dress be the lady, and
the lady a symphony of soul and silk.
Verily, “my soul on its lone way” has traveled far from the days of
babyhood, kicking against all wrappings, to the days of womanhood, when
personality exists not, separate from frocks and hats and gloves and
shoes, and both the inner layer of individuality and the outer layer of
costume have become cosy and comfortable, so that by no means do I wish
to lay them aside.
What next? Some day I shall be given into the hands of those who
“fashion the birth-robes for them
Who are just born, being dead.”
Shall I be again enfolded in garments all ready for me, of skyey tissues
and opalescent tints? Shall I squirm and struggle again, and again be
slowly subdued to the clothing and conventions of another world?
Or when I pop up the lid of this upholstered bone-box, my body, shall my
soul be then and there set free,—escaped, volatile, elemental, as wind
or moonshine, having cast from it—one by one as a garment—age, sex,
race, creed, and culture? But what if in this off-shedding I strip from
me my personality, myself? This involuted wrapping in which I am duly
done up and ticketed and passed about among my acquaintance,—what if to
rend this were to leave me in the shivering nakedness of the impersonal?