THE JOURNALS OF LEWIS AND CLARK
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Transcriber's Note: These Journals are from May 14, 1804, the day the expedition left the Mississippi River, to September 26, 1806, a day or two after they arrived back in St. Louis. It includes all possible Journal entries of Lewis and Clark. Most of the "courses and distances" and "celestial observations" have been omitted. The notes and most of the corrections of past editors have been removed. There are a few OCR errors, but most of the misspellings are almost 200 years old. The dates with the names in the brackets are a little redundent. They are included to provide the correct date in a consistent format.
PG Editor's Note: Misspellings, inventive punctuation and lack of punctuation along with variable capitalization, and not entirely clear abbreviations have been left as is. DW
THE JOURNALS OF LEWIS AND CLARK
[Lewis and Clark, June 24, 1804]
[Lewis and Clark, July 12, 1804]
[Lewis and Clark, September 8, 1804]
[Clark and Whitehouse, September 9, 1804]
[Lewis and Clark, October 13, 1804]
May the 14th-Monday Set out from Camp River a Dubois at 4 oClock P.M. and proceded up the Missouris under Sail to the first Island in the Missouri and Camped on the upper point opposit a Creek on the South Side below a ledge of limestone rock Called Colewater, made 41/2 miles, the Party Consisted of 2, Self one frenchman and 22 Men in the Boat of 20 ores, 1 Serjt. & 7 french in a large Perogue, a Corp and 6 Soldiers in a large Perogue. a Cloudy rainey day. wind from the N E. men in high Spirits
Monday May 14th 1804 Rained the forepart of the day I determined to go as far as St. Charles a french Village 7 Leags. up the Missourie, and wait at that place untill Capt. Lewis Could finish the business in which he was obliged to attend to at St Louis and join me by Land from that place 24 miles; by this movement I calculated that if any alterations in the loading of the Vestles or other Changes necessary, that they might be made at St. Charles I Set out at 4 oClock P.M. in the presence of many of the Neighbouring inhabitents, and proceeded on under a jentle brease up the Missourie to the upper Point of the 1st Island 4 Miles and Camped on the Island which is Situated Close on the right (or Starboard) Side, and opposit the mouth of a Small Creek called Cold water, a heavy rain this after-noon The Course of this day nearly West wind from N. E
Tuesday May 15th It rained during the greater part of last night and continued untill 7 OCk. A.M. after which the Prarty proceeded, passed two Islands and incamped on the Stard. shore at Mr. Fifer's landing opposite an Island, the evening was fair. some wild gees with their young brudes were seen today. the barge run foul three several times—on logs, and in one instance it was with much difficulty they could get her off; happily no injury was sustained, tho the barge was several minutes in eminent danger; this was cased by her being too heavily laden in the stern. Persons accustomed to the navigation of the Missouri and the Mississippi also below the mouth of this river, uniformly take the precaution to load their vessels heavyest in the bow when they ascend the stream in order to avoid the danger incedent to runing foul of the concealed timber which lyes in great quantities in the beds of these rivers.
Tuesday 15—rained all last night and this morning untill 7 oClock, all our fire extinguished, Some Provisions on the top of the Perogus wet, I sent two men to the Countrey to hunt, & proceed on at 9 oClock, and proceeded on 9 miles and Camped at a Mr Pip. Landing just below a Coal Bank on the South Side the prarie Comes with 1/4 of a mile of the river on the N. Side I sent to the Setlements in the Pairie & purchased fowls &. one of the Perogue are not Sufficently maned to Keep up.
Refurences from the 15th of May (2) a large Island to the Starboard; (3) passed a Small Island in the bend to the Starbord, opposit Passage De Soux and with 11/2 miles of the mississippi, observed a number of Gosselins on the edge of the river many passing down, Strong water & wind from the N E—Passed a Place Lbord Called the Plattes, a flat rock projecting from the foot of a hill, where there is a farm, (5) pass an Small Isld near the Center of the river, run on Several logs this after noon, Camped at Mr. Pipers Landing.
May 15th Tuesday Rained the greater part of the last night, and this morning untile 7 oClock—at 9 oClock Set out and proceeded on 9 miles passed two Islands & incamped on the Starbd. Side at a Mr. Pipers Landing opposit an Island, the Boat run on Logs three times to day, owing her being too heavyly loaded a Sturn, a fair after noon, I Saw a number of Goslings to day on the Shore, the water excessively rapid, & Banks falling in-.
Wednesday May 16th A fair morning, Set out at 5 oClock passed the Coal hill (Call by the natives Carbonear) this hill appears to Contain great quantytes of Coal, and also ore of a rich appearance haveing greatly the resemblance of Silver Arrived Opposit St Charles at 12 oClock, this Village is at the foot of a Hill from which it takes its real name Peeteite Coete or the little hill, it contains about 100 indefferent houses, and abot 450 Inhabetents principally frinch, those people appear pore and extreemly kind, the Countrey around I am told is butifull. interspursed with Praries & timber alturnetly and has a number of American Settlers
Took equal altituds with Sextion M a 68°37'30" Dined with the Comdr. & Mr. Ducetts family—(1) Passed an Island on the L Side just above the bank one just above, two Small ones oposut under the St. Shore, one on Lb. Side below St Charles, arrived at this place at 12 oClock a fine Day
May 16th Wednesday a fair morning Set out at 5 oClk pass a remarkable Coal Hill on the Larboard Side Called by the French Carbonere, this hill appear to Contain great quantity of Coal & ore of a ____ appearance from this hill the village of St Charles may be Seen at 7 miles distance—we arrived at St. Charles at 12 oClock a number Spectators french & Indians flocked to the bank to See the party. This Village is about one mile in length, Situated on the North Side of the Missourie at the foot of a hill from which it takes its name Petiete Coete or the Little hill This village Contns. about 100 houses, the most of them Small and indefferent and about 450 inhabitents Chiefly French, those people appear pore, polite & harmonious—I was invited to Dine with a Mr. Ducett this gentleman was once a merchant from Canadia, from misfortunes aded to the loss of a Cargo Sold to the late judge Turner he has become Somewhat reduced, he has a Charming wife an eligent Situation on the hill Serounded by orchards & a excellent gardain.
Thursday the 17th 1804 a fine Day 3 men Confined for misconduct, I had a Court martial & punishment Several Indians, who informed me that the Saukees had lately Crossed to war against the Osage Nation Som aplicasions, I took equal altitudes made the m a. to be 84° 39' 15" measured the Missouries at this place and made it 720 yards wide, in Banks. a Boat came up this evening, I punished Hall agreeable to his Sentence in part, a fine after noon; Suped with Mr. Ducett an agreeable man more agreeable Lady, this Gentleman has a Delightfull Situation & garden.
May the 17th Thursday 1804 a fair day Compelled to punish for misconduct. Several Kickapoos Indians Visit me to day, George Drewyer arrive. Took equal altitudes of Suns L L made it 84° 39' 15" ap T. Measured the river found it to be 720 yards wide, a Keel Boat Came up to day—Several of the inhabitents Came abord to day receved Several Speces of Vegatables from the inhabitents to day
[Ordway, May 17, 1804] Orders St. Charles Thursdy the 17th of May 1804- a Sergeant and four men of the Party destined for the Missourri Expidition will convene at 11 oClock to day on the quarter Deck of the Boat, and form themselves into a Court martial to hear and determine (in behalf of the Capt.) the evidences aduced against William Warner & Hugh Hall for being absent last night without leave; contrary to orders;-& John Collins 1st for being absent without leave—2nd for behaveing in an unbecomeing manner at the Ball last night—3rdly for Speaking in a language last night after his return tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer
Signd. W. Clark Comdg.
Detail for Court martial
Segt. John Ordway Prs.
members R. Fields R. Windsor J. Whitehouse Jo. Potts
The Court convened agreeable to orders on the 17th of May 1804 Sgt. John Ordway P. members Joseph Whitehouse Rueben Fields Potts Richard Windsor after being duly Sworn the Court proceded to the trial of William Warner & Hugh Hall on the following Charges Viz: for being absent without leave last night contrary to orders, to this Charge the Prisoners plead Guilty. The Court one of oppinion that the Prisoners Warner & Hall are Both Guilty of being absent from camp without leave it being a breach of the Rules and articles of war and do Sentence them Each to receive twentyfive lashes on their naked back, but the Court recommend them from their former Good conduct, to the mercy of the commanding officer.—at the Same court was tried John Collins Charged 1st for being absent without leave—2d. for behaveing in an unbecomming manner at the ball last night idly for Speaking in a languguage after his return to camp tending to bring into disrespect the orders of the Commanding officer—The Prisoner Pleads Guilty to the first Charge but not Guilty to the two last chrges.—after mature deliberation & agreeable to the evidence aduced. The Court are of oppinion that the Prisnair is Guilty of all the charges alledged against him it being a breach of the rules & articles of War and do Sentence him to receive fifty lashes on his naked back—The Commanding officer approves of the proceedings & Desicon of the Court martial and orders that the punishment of John Collins take place this evening at Sun Set in the Presence of the Party.—The punishment ordered to be inflicted on William Warner & Hugh Hall, is remitted under the assurence arriveing from a confidence which the Commanding officer has of the Sincerity of the recommendation from the Court.—after the punishment, Warner Hall & Collins will return to their squads and Duty
The Court is Disolved.
Sign. Wm. Clark
Friday May the 18th 1804 a fine morning took equal altitude and made it 97° 42' 37" M. A
I had the Boat & Pierogue reloded So as to Cause them to be heavyer in bow than asturn recved of Mr. Lyon 136 lb. Tobacco on act. of Mr. Choteau Gave out tin Cups & 3 Knives to the French hands, Mr. Lauriesme returned from the Kickapoo Town to day delayed a Short time & Set out for St. Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with Mr. Lauriesmus to St Louis & wrote to Cap Lewis Mr. Ducett made me a present of rivr Catts & Some Herbs our french hands bring me eggs milk &c. &. to day The wind hard from the S. W. Two Keel Boats came up to this place to day from Kentucky
May the 18th Friday 1804 a fine morning, I had the loading in the Boat & perogue examined and changed So as the Bow of each may be heavyer laded than the Stern, Mr. Lauremus who had been Sent by Cap Lewis to the Kickapoo Town on public business return'd and after a Short delay proceeded on to St Louis, I Sent George Drewyer with a Letter to Capt Lewis Two Keel Boats arrive from Kentucky to day loaded with whiskey Hats &c. &. the wind from the SW. Took equal altitudes with Sexetn Made it 97°42' 37" MT.
Satturday May the 19th 1804 a Violent Wind last night from the W. S W, Suckceeded by rain with lasted Som hours, a Cloudy Morning, many persons Came to the boat to day I took equal altitudes. mar time 76° 33' 7"
I heard of my Brothers illness to day which has given me much Concurn, I settle with the men and take receipts for Pay up to the 1st of Decr. next, I am invited to a ball in the Village, let Several of the men go,—R Fields Kill a Deer George Drewyear returned with a hundred Dollars, he lost
May 19th Satturday 1804 A Violent Wind last night from the W. S. W. accompanied with rain which lasted about three hours Cleared away this morn'g at 8 oClock, I took receipt for the pay of the men up to the 1st. of Decr. next, R. Fields Kill a Deer to day, I recve an invitation to a Ball, it is not in my power to go. George Drewyer return from St Louis and brought 99 Dollars, he lost a letter from Cap Lewis to me, Seven Ladies visit me to day
Sunday May 20th 1804 The morning was fair, and the weather pleasent; at 10 oCk A M. agreably to an appointment of the preceeding day, I was joined by Capt. Stoddard, Lieuts. Milford & Worrell together with Messrs. A. Chouteau, C. Gratiot, and many other respectable inhabitants of St. Louis, who had engaged to accompany me to the Vilage of St. Charles; accordingly at 12 Oclk after bidding an affectionate adieu to my Hostis, that excellent woman the spouse of Mr. Peter Chouteau, and some of my fair friends of St. Louis, we set forward to that village in order to join my friend companion and fellow labourer Capt. William Clark who had previously arrived at that place with the party destined for the discovery of the interior of the continent of North America the first 5 miles of our rout laid through a beatifull high leavel and fertile prarie which incircles the town of St. Louis from N. W. to S. E. the lands through which we then passed are somewhat broken up fertile the plains and woodlands are here indiscriminately interspersed untill you arrive within three miles of the vilage when the woodland commences and continues to the Missouri the latter is extreamly fertile. At half after one P.M. our progress was interrupted the near approach of a violent thunder storm from the N. W. and concluded to take shelter in a little cabbin hard by untill the rain should be over; accordingly we alighted and remained about an hour and a half and regailed ourselves with a could collation which we had taken the precaution to bring with us from St. Louis.
The clouds continued to follow each other in rapaid succession, insomuch that there was but little prospect of it's ceasing to rain this evening; as I had determined to reach St. Charles this evening and knowing that there was now no time to be lost I set forward in the rain, most of the gentlemen continued with me, we arrived at half after six and joined Capt Clark, found the party in good health and sperits. suped this evening with Monsr. Charles Tayong a Spanish Ensign & late Commandant of St. Charles at an early hour I retired to rest on board the barge—St. Charles is situated on the North bank of the Missouri 21 Miles above it's junction with the Mississippi, and about the same distance N. W. from St. Louis; it is bisected by one principal street about a mile in length runing nearly parrallel with the river, the plain on which it stands-is narrow tho sufficiently elivated to secure it against the annual inundations of the river, which usually happen in the month of June, and in the rear it is terminated by a range of small hills, hence the appellation of petit Cote, a name by which this vilage is better known to the French inhabitants of the Illinois than that of St. Charles. The Vilage contains a Chappel, one hundred dwelling houses, and about 450 inhabitants; their houses are generally small and but illy constructed; a great majority of the inhabitants are miserably pour, illiterate and when at home excessively lazy, tho they are polite hospitable and by no means deficient in point of natural genious, they live in a perfect state of harmony among each other; and plase as implicit confidence in the doctrines of their speritual pastor, the Roman Catholic priest, as they yeald passive obedience to the will of their temporal master the commandant. a small garden of vegetables is the usual extent of their cultivation, and this is commonly imposed on the old men and boys; the men in the vigor of life consider the cultivation of the earth a degrading occupation, and in order to gain the necessary subsistence for themselves and families, either undertake hunting voyages on their own account, or engage themselves as hirelings to such persons as possess sufficient capital to extend their traffic to the natives of the interior parts of the country; on those voyages in either case, they are frequently absent from their families or homes the term of six twelve or eighteen months and alwas subjected to severe and incessant labour, exposed to the ferosity of the lawless savages, the vicissitudes of weather and climate, and dependant on chance or accident alone for food, raiment or relief in the event of malady. These people are principally the decendants of the Canadian French, and it is not an inconsiderable proportian of them that can boast a small dash of the pure blood of the aboriginees of America. On consulting with my friend Capt. C. I found it necessary that we should pospone our departure untill 2 P M. the next day and accordingly gave orders to the party to hold themselves in readiness to depart at that hour.
Captn. Clark now informed me that having gotten all the stores on board the Barge and perogues on the evening of the 13th of May he determined to leave our winter cantainment at the mouth of River Dubois the next day, and to ascend the Missouri as far as the Vilage of St. Charles, where as it had been previously concerted between us, he was to wait my arrival; this movement while it advanced us a small distance on our rout, would also enable him to determine whether the vessels had been judiciously loaded and if not timely to make the necessary alterations; accordingly at 4 P.M. on Monday the 14th of May 1804, he embarked with the party in the presence of a number of the neighbouring Citizens who had assembled to witness his departure. during the fore part of this day it rained excessively hard. In my last letter to the President dated at St. Louis I mentioned the departure of Capt. Clark from River Dubois on the 15th Inst, which was the day that had been calculated on, but having completed the arrangements a day earlyer he departed on the 14th as before mentioned. On the evening of the 14th the party halted and encamped on the upper point of the first Island which lyes near the Larbord shore, on the same side and nearly opposite the center of this Island a small Creek disimbogues called Couldwater.
The course and distance of this day was West 4 Miles the Wind from N. E.
Sunday 20th May a Cloudy morning rained and a hard wind last night I continue to write Rolls, Send 20 men to Church to day one man Sick Capt Lewis and Several Gentlemen arrive from St Louis thro a violent Shoure of rain, the most of the party go to the Church.
Sunday 20th May A Cloudy morning rained and hard wind from the ____ last night, The letter George lost yesterday found by a Country man, I gave the party leave to go and hear a Sermon to day delivered by Mr. ____ a romon Carthlick Priest at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Capt. Stoddard accompanied by the Officers & Several Gentlemen of St Louis arrived in a heavy Showr of Rain Mssr. Lutenants Minford & Werness. Mr. Choteau Grattiot, Deloney, Laber Dee Ranken Dr. SoDrang rained the greater part of this evening. Suped with Mr. Charles Tayon, the late Comdt. of St Charles a Spanish Ensign.
Monday 21st May Dine with Mr. Ducete & Set out from St. Charles at three oClock after getting every matter arranged, proceeded on under a jentle Breese, at one mile a Violent rain with Wind from the S. W. we landed at the upper point of the first Island on the Stbd Side & Camped, Soon after it commenced raining & continued the greater part of the night; 3 french men got leave to return to Town, and return early (refur to Fig. 2.)
25st refured to fig. 2 Left St. Charles May 21st 1804. Steered N. 15° W 13/4 Ms N 52°W to the upper point of the Island and Camped dureing a rain which had been falling half an hour, opposit this Isd. Corns in a Small creek on the St. Sd. and at the head one on the Ld. Side rains powerfully.
May 21st 1804 Monday All the forepart of the Day Arranging our party and prcureing the different articles necessary for them at this place—Dined with Mr. Ducett and Set out at half passed three oClock under three Cheers from the gentlemen on the bank and proceeded on to the head of the Island (which is Situated on the Stbd Side) 3 miles Soon after we Set out to day a hard Wind from the W. S W accompanied with a hard rain, which lasted with Short intervales all night, opposit our Camp a Small creek corns in on the Lbd Side-
Tuesday May 22nd delayed a Short time for the three french men who returned and we Set out at 6 oClock a Cloudy morning rained Violently hard last night Saw Several people on the bank to day & passed Several Small farms. Capt. Lewis walk on Shore a little & passed a Camp of Kickapoo Indians, & incamped in the mouth of a Small Creek in a large Bend on the Stbd Side.
May 22nd Tuesday 1804 a Cloudy morning Delay one hour for 4 french men who got liberty to return to arrange Some business they had forgotten in Town, at 6 oClock we proceeded on, passed Several Small farms on the bank, and a large creek on the Lbd. Side Called Bonom a Camp of Kickapoos on the St. Side Those Indians told me Several days ago that they would Come on & hunt and by the time I got to their Camp they would have Some Provisions for us, we Camped in a Bend at the Mo. of a Small creek, Soon after we came too the Indians arrived with 4 Deer as a Present, for which we gave them two qts. of whiskey-
This Day we passed Several Islands, and Some high lands on the Starboard Side, Verry hard water.
Wednesday May 23rd 8 Indians Kick. Came to Camp with meat we recved their pesents of 3 Deer & gave them Whisky.
Set out early run on a log under water and Detained one hour proceeded on the Same Course of last night, (2 miles) passed the mouth of a creek on the Sbd. Side called Woman of Osage River about 30 yds. over, abounding in fish, Stoped one hour where their was maney people assembled to See us, halted at an endented part of a Rock which juted over the water, Called by the french the tavern which is a Cave 40 yds. long with the river 4 feet Deep & about 20 feet high, this is a place the Indians & french Pay omage to, many names are wrote up on the rock Mine among others, at one mile above this rock coms in a small Creek called Tavern Creek, abov one other Small Creek, camped at 6 oClock (after expirencing great dificuselty in passing Some Drifts) on the Stb Side, examined the mens arms found all in good order except the Detachment of Solds in the Perogue—R Field Killed a Deer.
May 23rd Course of last night S 75 W Contined 2 miles to the Said point St. Side passed the upper Point of the Island Thence S 52° W. 7 Miles to a pt. on St. Sd. passing Tavern Island two Small Isd. in a bend to the St. side the Mo. of Oge womans River at 1 m. the Cave Called the Tavern, Lbd Side at 5 m. Situated in the Clifts, opposit a Small Island on the Stbd Side (R. & Jo. Fields came in) with many people, passed the Tavern Cave, Capt Lewis assended the hill which has peninsulis projecting in raged points to the river, and was near falling from a Peninsulia hard water all Day Saved himself by the assistance of his Knife, passed a Creek 15 yds. wide at 1 mile called Creek of the Tavern on the Lbd. Side, Camped opposit the pt. which the Last Course was to. one man Sick.
May 23rd Wednesday 1804 We Set out early ran on a Log and detained one hour, proceeded the Course of Last night 2 Miles to the mouth of a Creek on the Stbd. Side Called Osage Womans R, about 30 yds. wide, opposit a large Island and a Settlement. (on this Creek 30 or 40 famlys are Settled) Crossed to the Settlemt. and took in R & Jo. Fields who had been Sent to purchase Corn & Butter &c. many people Came to See us, we passed a large Cave on the Lbd. Side about 120 feet wide 40 feet Deep & 20 feet high many different immages are Painted on the Rock at this place. the Inds & French pay omage. many hams are wrote on the rock, Stoped about one mile above for Capt Lewis who had assended the Clifts which is at the Said Cave 300 fee high, hanging over the Water, the water excessively Swift to day, we incamped below a Small Isld. in the Meadle of the river, Sent out two hunters, one Killed a Deer
This evening we examined the arms and amunition found those mens arms in the perogue in bad order a fair evening Capt. Lewis near falling from the Pencelia of rocks 300 feet, he caught at 20 foot.
Thursday May the 24th 1804 Set out early passed a Small Isd in the Midlle of the river, opposit the on the Lbd. Side is projecting Rock of 1/2 a mile in extent against which the Current runs, this place is called the Devils race grounds,1 above this Coms in a Small Creek called the little quiver, a Sand Island on the Stbd Side, passed Several Islands & 2 creeks, on the Stbd Side a Small Island on the Lbd Side above we wer verry near loseing our Boat in Toeing She Struck the Sands the Violence of the Current was so great that the Toe roap Broke, the Boat turned Broadside, as the Current Washed the Sand from under her She wheeled & lodged on the bank below as often as three times, before we got her in Deep water, nothing Saved her but
May 24th Set out early, Killed a Deer last night. examined the mens arms, & Saw that all was prepared for action, passed an Island in the M. R, opposit a hard place of water called the Devill race grown, S 63° W 4 miles to a point on the Sd. Starboard Side N 68 W to a point on Lbd Side 3 ms. Passd. a Small Willow Island on the Lbd. Side to the point of a Isd. L Side—S 75° W to a point on Stbd Side 3 Miles, Passed the upper point of the Island. Crossed and in a verry bad place we got our Boat a ground & She Bocke the Toe Roap & turned the Land, the in Wheeling three times, got off returned to the head of the aforesaid Island, and Came up under a falling Bank. hard water this place being the worst I ever Saw, I call it the retregrade bend. Camped at an old house.
May 24th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed a Verry bad part of the River Called the Deavels race ground, this is where the Current Sets against Some projecting rocks for half a mile on the Labd. Side, above this place is the mouth of a Small Creek Called queivere, passed Several Islands, two Small Creeks on the Stbd. Side, and passed between a Isld. an the Lbd. Shore a narrow pass above this Isld is a Verry bad part of the river, we attempted to pass up under the Lbd. Bank which was falling in So fast that the evident danger obliged us to Cross between the Starbd. Side and a Sand bar in the middle of the river, we hove up near the head of the Sand bar, the Sand moveing & banking caused us to run on the Sand. The Swiftness of the Current wheeled the boat, Broke our Toe rope, and was nearly over Setting the boat, all hand jumped out on the upper Side and bore on that Side untill the Sand washed from under the boat and wheeled on the next bank by the time She wheeled a 3rd Time got a rope fast to her Stern and by the means of Swimmers was Carred to Shore and when her Stern was down whilst in the act of Swinging a third time into Deep water near the Shore, we returned, to the Island where we Set out and assended under the Bank which I have just mentioned, as falling in, here George Drewyer & Willard, two of our men who left us at St. Charles to Come on by land joined us, we Camped about 1 mile above where we were So nearly being lost, on the Labd Side at a Plantation. all in Spirits. This place I call the retragrade bend as we were obliged to fall back 2 miles
25 May Set out early Course West to a Point on Sbd. Side at 2 Miles passd a Willow Isd. in a Bend to the Lbd. a creek called wood rivr Lbd. Side N 57° W. to a pt. on the Sb. Side 3 Miles passed the Mouth of a Creek St. Side Called Le quever, this Same course continued to a Point Ld. Side 21/2 Miles further. opposit a Isd. on Sd Side Passed a Creek Called R. La freeau at the pt. N 20° W 2 miles To a Small french Village called La Charatt of five families only, in the bend to the Starbord This is the Last Settlement of Whites, an Island opposit
May 25th Friday 1804 rain last night river fall Several inches, Set out early psd. Several Islands passed wood River on the Lbd Side at 2 miles passed Creek on the St. Side Called La Querer at 5 miles passed a Creek at 8 mile, opsd. an Isd. on the Lbd Side, Camped at the mouth of a Creek called River a Chauritte, above a Small french Village of 7 houses and as many families, Settled at this place to be convt. to hunt, & trade with the Indians, here we met with Mr. Louisell imedeately down from the Seeeder Isld. Situated in the Countrey of the Suxex 400 Leagues up he gave us a good Deel of information Some letters he informed us that he Saw no Indians on the river below the Poncrars—Some hard rain this evening
The people at this Village is pore, houses Small, they Sent us milk & eggs to eat.
May 26th 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a hard rain & Wind, & proceed on verry well under Sale. Wind from the E N E
The wind favourable to day we made 18 miles a Cloud rais & wind & rain Closed the Day
May the 26th Sattarday 1804. Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy Shour of rain (George Drewyer & John Shields, Sent by Land with the two horses with directions to proceed on one day & hunt the next) The wind favourable from the E N E passed Beef Island and river on Lbd Side at 31/2 Ms Passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side Called Shepperds Creek, passed Several Islands to day great Deal of Deer Sign on the Bank one man out hunting, w Camped on an Island on the Starboard Side near the Southern extrem of Luter Island.
Detatchment Orders. May 26th 1804. The Commanding Officers direct, that the three Squads under the command of Sergts. Floyd Ordway and Pryor heretofore forming two messes each, shall untill further orders constitute three messes only, the same being altered and organized as follows (viz)
1 Sergt. Charles Floyd. (1)
Privates:
2 Hugh McNeal
3 Patric Gass
4 Reubin Fields (2)
5 John B Thompson
+ 6 John Newman
7 Richard Winsor
+ Francis Rivet &
8 Joseph Fields (3)
9 Sergt. John Ordway.
Privates.
10 William Bratton (4)
11 John Colter (5)
X 12 Moses B. Reed
13 Alexander Willard
14 William Warner
15 Silas Goodrich
16 John Potts &
17 Hugh Hall
18 Sergt. Nathaniel Pryor. (6)
Privates.
19 George Gibson (7)
20 George Shannon (8)
21 John Shields (9)
22 John Collins
23 Joseph Whitehouse
24 Peter Wiser
F 25 Peter Crusat &
F 26 Francis Labuche
The commanding officers further direct that the remainder of the detatchmen shall form two messes; and that the same be constituded as follows. (viz)
Patroon, Baptist Dechamps
Engages
Etienne Mabbauf
Paul Primaut
Charles Hébert
Baptist La Jeunesse
Peter Pinaut
Peter Roi &
Joseph Collin
1 Corpl. Richard Warvington.
Privates.
2 Robert Frasier
3 John Boleye
4 John Dame
5 Ebinezer Tuttle &
6 Isaac White
The Commanding officers further direct that the messes of Sergts. Floyd, Ordway and Pryor shall untill further orders form the crew of the Batteaux; the Mess of the Patroon La Jeunesse will form the permanent crew of the red Perogue; Corpl. Warvington's mess forming that of the white perogue.
Whenever by any casualty it becomes necessary to furnish additional men to assist in navigating the Perogues, the same shall be furnished by daily detale from the Privates who form the crew of Batteaux, exempting only from such detale, Thomas P. Howard and the men who are assigned to the two bow and the two stern oars.—For the present one man will be furnished daily to assist the crew of the white perogue; this man must be an expert boatman.
The posts and duties of the Sergts. shall be as follows (viz)—when the Batteaux is under way, one Sergt. shall be stationed at the helm, one in the center on the rear of the Starboard locker, and one at the bow. The Sergt. at the helm, shall steer the boat, and see that the baggage on the quarterdeck is properly arranged and stowed away in the most advantageous manner; to see that no cooking utensels or loos lumber of any kind is left on the deck to obstruct the passage between the burths—he will also attend to the compas when necessary.
The Sergt at the center will command the guard, manage the sails, see that the men at the oars do their duty; that they come on board at a proper season in the morning, and that the boat gets under way in due time; he will keep a good lookout for the mouths of all rivers, creeks, Islands and other remarkable places and shall immediately report the same to the commanding officers; he will attend to the issues of sperituous liquors; he shall regulate the halting of the batteaux through the day to give the men refreshment, and will also regulate the time of her departure taking care that not more time than is necessary shall be expended at each halt—it shall be his duty also to post a centinel on the bank, near the boat whenever we come too and halt in the course of the day, at the same time he will (acompanied by two his guard) reconnoiter the forrest arround the place of landing to the distance of at least one hundred paces. when we come too for the purpose of encamping at night, the Sergt. of the guard shall post two centinels immediately on our landing; one of whom shal be posted near the boat, and the other at a convenient distance in rear of the encampment; at night the Sergt. must be always present with his guard, and he is positively forbidden to suffer any man of his guard to absent himself on any pretext whatever; he will at each relief through the night, accompanyed by the two men last off their posts, reconnoiter in every direction around the camp to the distance of at least one hundred and fifty paces, and also examine the situation of the boat and perogues, and see that they ly safe and free from the bank
It shall be the duty of the sergt. at the bow, to keep a good look out for all danger which may approach, either of the enimy, or obstructions which may present themselves to passage of the boat; of the first he will notify the Sergt. at the center, who will communicate the information to the commanding officers, and of the second or obstructions to the boat he will notify the Sergt. at the helm; he will also report to the commanding officers through the Sergt. at the center all perogues boats canoes or other craft which he may discover in the river, and all hunting camps or parties of Indians in view of which we may pass. he will at all times be provided with a seting pole and assist the bowsman in poling and managing the bow of the boat. it will be his duty also to give and answer all signals, which may hereafter be established for the government of the perogues and parties on shore.
The Sergts. will on each morning before our departure relieve each other in the following manner—The Sergt. at the helm will parade the new guard, relieve the Sergt. and the old guard, and occupy the middle station in the boat; the Sergt. of the old guard will occupy the station at the bow, and the Sergt. who had been stationed the preceeding day at the bow will place himself at the helm.—The sergts. in addition to those duties are directed each to keep a seperate journal from day today of all passing occurences, and such other observations on the country &c. as shall appear to them worthy of notice
The Sergts. are relieved and exempt from all labour of making fires, pitching tents or cooking, and will direct and make the men of their several messes perform an equal propotion of those duties.
The guard shall hereafter consist of one sergeant and six privates & engages.
Patroon, Dechamp, Copl. Warvington, and George Drewyer, are exempt from guad duty; the two former will attend particularly to their perogues at all times, and see that their lading is in good order, and that the same is kept perfectly free from rain or other moisture; the latter will perform certain duties on shore which will be assigned him from time to time. all other soldiers and engaged men of whatever discription must perform their regular tour of guad duty.
All detales for guard or other duty will be made in the evening when we encamp, and the duty to be performed will be entered on, by the individuals so warned, the next morning.—provision for one day will be issued to the party on each evening after we have encamped; the same will be cooked on that evening by the several messes, and a proportion of it reserved for the next day as no cooking will be allowed in the day while on the mach
Sergt. John Ordway will continue to issue the provisions and make the detales for guard or other duty.—The day after tomorrow lyed corn and grece will be issued to the party, the next day Poark and flour, and the day following indian meal and poark; and in conformity to that ratiene provisions will continue to be issued to the party untill further orders.—should any of the messes prefer indian meal to flour they may recieve it accordingly—no poark is to be issued when we have fresh meat on hand.
Labuche and Crusat will man the larboard bow oar alternately, and the one not engaged at the oar will attend as the Bows-man, and when the attention of both these persons is necessary at the bow, their oar is to be maned by any idle hand on board.
Meriwether Lewis Capt. Wm. Clark Cpt.
Sunday May 27th as we were Setting out this morning two Canoos loaded with Bever elk Deer Skins & Buffalow Robes, from the Mahars nation, they inform that they left that place 2 months, a gentle Breese from the S. E, we camped on an Isd in the mouth of Gasconade R, this river is 157 yards wide a butifull stream of clear water. 19 foot Deep Hills on the lower Side
May 27th Sunday 1804 as we were pushing off this Morning two Canoos Loaded with fur &c. Came to from the Mahars nation, which place they had left two months, at about 10 oClock 4 Cajaux or rafts loaded with furs and peltres came too one from the Paunees, the other from Grand Osage, they informed nothing of Consequence, passed a Creek on the Lbd Side Called ash Creek 20 yds wide, passed the upper point of a large Island on the Stbd Side back of which Comes in three Creeks one Called Orter Creek, her the men we left hunting Came in we camped on a Willow Island in the mouth of Gasconnade River. George Shannon Killed a Deer this evening
Monday 28th May rained hard all the last night Some wind from the S W, one Deer Killed to day, one Man fell in with Six Indians hunting, onloaded the perogue, & found Several articles Wet, Some Tobacco Spoiled. river begin to rise
May 28th Munday 1804 Gasconnade Rained hard all last night Some thunder & lightening hard wind in the forepart of the night from the S W. Ruben Fields Killed a Deer Several hunter out to day I measured the river found the Gasconnade to be 157 yds. wide and 19 foot Deep the Course of this R. is S 29° W, one of the hunters fell in with 6 Inds. hunting, onloaded the large Perogue on board of which was 8 french hands found many things wet by their cearlenessness, put all the articles which was wet out to Dry—this day So Cloudy that no observations could be taken, the river begin to rise, examine the mens arms and equapage, all in Order
Tuesday 29th May Sent out hunters, got a morning obsvtn and one at 12 oClock, rained last night, the river rises fast The Musquetors are verry bad, Load the pierogue
May 29th 1804 Set out from the mouth of the gasconnade, where we took obsevn &c. left a Perogue for a man lost in the woods, Course N. 54 W 2 m to a point Lb. Side. Passed the Isd. on which we Camped, river still rised, water verry muddey N. 78° W 2 Ms. to a pt. on Lb Side passed two willow Islands first Smaller and a Creek on Lbd. called Deer Creek one oposit the point St. Side and incamped on the Lb Side rain all night the tents together along the N; 76 W 25 Poles S 26 W, to the point above—S 19° to the pot below the River
May 29th Tuesday rained last night, Cloudy morning 4 hunters Sent out with Orders to return at 12 oClock Took equal altitudes of Suns Lower limb found it 105° 31' 45"
Cap Lewis observed meridean altitude of sun U L-back observation with the octant & artificeal horozen—gave for altitude on the Limb 38° 44' 00" sun octant Error 2 0 0 +
had the Perogues loaded and all perpared to Set out at 4 oClock after finishing the observations & all things necessary found that one of the hunters had not returned, we deturmined to proceed on & leave one perogue to wate for him, accordingly at half past four we Set out and came on 4 miles & camped on the Lbd Side above a Small Creek Called Deer Creek, Soon after we came too we heard Several guns fire down the river, we answered them by a Discharge of a Swivile on the Bow
May 30th, Wednesday, Set out at 7 oClock after a heavy rain, rained all last night, a little after Dark last night Several guns were herd below, I expect the French men fireing for Whitehous who was lost in the woods.
May 30th Wednesday 1804 Rained all last night Set out at 6 oClock after a heavy Shower, and proceeded on, passed a large Island a Creek opposit on the St. Side just abov a Cave Called Monbrun Tavern & River, passed a Creek on the Lbd. Side Call Rush Creek at 4 Miles Several Showers of rain the Current Verry Swift river riseing fast Passed Big Miry River at 11 Miles on the Starboard Side, at the lower point of a Island, this River is about 50 yards Wide, Camped at the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Sd of abt 25 yds. Wide Called Grinestone Creek, opposit the head of a Isd. and the mouth of Little Miry River on the St Side, a heavy wind accompanied with rain & hail we Made 14 miles to day, the river Continue to rise, the County on each Side appear full of Water.
May 31st Thursday 1804 rained the greater part of last night, the wind from the West raised and blew with great force untile 5 oClock p.m.which obliged us to lay by a Cajaux of Bear Skins and pelteries came down from the Grand Osarge, one french man one Indian, and a Squar, they had letters from the man Mr. Choteau Sent to that part of the Osarge Nation Settled on Arkansa River mentioning that his letter was Commited to the flaims, the Inds. not believeing that the Americans had possession of the Countrey they disregarded St Louis & their Supplies &c.—Several rats of Considerable Size was Cought in the woods to day—Capt Lewis went out to the woods & found many curious Plants & Srubs, one Deer killed this evening
June 1st Friday 1804 Set out early, the Same Course S 48° W of Wednesday contd. 4 ms passed the Mouth of Little Miry on the Stb & high rich Land on the Lb Side, S. 45°W to an Island opposit a hill on the S. Sd. 6 Ms. this Isd is on the Lbd. passed the Mo. of Bear creek 25 yds wide at 2 ms. & three Small Isd., Some Swift water and banks falling in, Wind a head from the West, S 39° W 3 ms. to the Pt. above the mouth of Osage River Larb Side, Camped fell a number of Trees in the Point to take observation a fair after noon, Sit up untill 1 oClock to take Som observations &c.
June 1st 1804 Friday Set out early a fair morning Passed the mouth Bear Creek 25 yds. Wide at 6 Miles, Several Small Islands in the river the wind a head from the West the Current exceedingly rapid Came to on the point of the Osarges River on the Labd Side of Missouries this osages river Verry high, felled all the Trees in the point to Make observations Sit up untill 12 oClock taken oservation this night
June 2nd—Took the Dirts. of Son & moon &c &c. I measured the Osage & Missouris at this place made ther width as follows, the Missoure 875 yd. wide The Osage R 397 yds. wide, the distance between the 2 rivers 80 poles up is 40 Ps. Took equal altitudes & Mredian altitude also-and made them ____ I assended the hill in the point 80 ps. from the pt. found it about 100 foot high, on the top is 2 graves, or mouns, a Delightfull prospect from this hill which Comds. both rivers
Drewyer & Shields came to the opposit Side to day at SunSet we sent across & brought them over, they had been absent 7 Days Swam many creeks, much worsted. They informed us that the Countrey on both Sides of muddy river's to the hill called by the french ____ 3 ms. below this place, a Small Praries below the hill, 4 Deer Killed to day I assend a hill &. after measuring the river &c. &c. &c.
June 2nd Satturday Cap Lewis Took the Time & Distance of suns & moons nearest limbs, the Sun East—and Meridean altitude of Suns U. L. with Octant, back observation gave for altitude 37° 28"00".
Error of Octant 2° 00' 00" +. made Several other observations—I made an angle for the Wedth of the two rivers. The Missourie from the Point to the N. Side is 875 yards wide the Osage River from the point to the S. E Side is 397 yards wide, the destance between the two rivers at the pt. of high Land (ioo foot above the bottom) and 80 poles up the Missouries from the point is 40 poles, on the top of this high land under which is a limestone rock two Mouns or graves are raised—from this pt. which Comds both rivers I had a delightful) prospect of the Missouries up & down, also the Osage R. up. George Drewyer & John Shields who we had Sent with the horses by Land on the N Side joined us this evening much worsted, they being absent Seven Days depending on their gun, the greater part of the time rain, they were obliged to raft or Swim many Creeks, those men gave a flattering account of the Countrey Commencing below the first hill on the N Side and extendg Parrelal with the river for 30 or 40 Ms. The Two Muddey river passing Thro & som fine Springs & Streams our hunters kill Several Deer to day, Some Small licks on the S E of the Osage River.
June Sunday 3rd 1804 the fore part of the day fair I attempted to take equal alltitudes, & M Altitudes, but was disapointed, the Clouds obsured the Sun, took the D. of sun & moon Capt Lewis & George Drewyer went out & Killed a Deer, We Set out at 5 oClock P M Cloudy & rain, West 5 Ms. to the mo. of Murrow Creek Lb Sd. a pt. St. Side Keeping along the Lbd Side 1 Ms., passed the mouth of a Creek on Lbd Side 3 ms., I call Cupboard, Creek, mouths behind a rock which projects into the river, Camped in the mouth of the Creek aforesaid, at the mouth of this Creek I saw much fresh Signs of Indians, haveing Crossed 2 Deer Killed to day. I have a verry Sore Throat, & am Tormented with Musquetors & Small ticks.
June 3rd Sunday 1804 The forepart of the day fair Took meridional altitude of suns U:L with the Octant and Glass Horrison adjusted back observation. the instrument gave 38° 2' 00"—it was Cloudy and the Suns disk much obsured, and Cannot be Depended on.
We made other Observations in the evening after the return of Capt Lewis from a walk of three or four ms. round—We Set out at 5 oClock P.M. proceeded on five miles to the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. 20 yds. wide Called Murow, passed a Creek at 3 ms. which I call Cupbord Creek as it Mouths above a rock of that appearance. Several Deer Killed to dayat the mouth of the Murow Creek I Saw much Sign of war parties of Inds. haveing Crossed from the mouth of this Creek. I have a bad Cold with a Sore throat. Near West 5 Miles
June 4th 1804 Monday, a fair Day Sent out 3 hunters, our mast broke by the boat running under a tree Passed an Islands on Stbd Side on which grow Seeder a Creek at ____ miles on the Starbd Sd. Course N. 30° W 4 ms. to pt. on St. Side below 2d Isd. passed a Creek on Lbd Side 15 yd. wide, I call Nightingale Creek. this Bird Sang all last night and is the first of the kind I ever herd, below this Creek and the last Passed a Small Isd on the Stbd. N. 25 W. 3 ms. to a pt. on St. Sd. passed a Sm. Isd. on St. Sd. and Seeder Creek on the Same Side 20 yds wide passed a Creek on Lbd Sd. 20 yd wide, I call Mast Creek, this is a Short Creek, fine land above & below the mouth. Jentle rise of about 50 foot, Delightfull Timber of Oake ash walnut hickory &c. &c. wind from N W. by W. N. 58° W. 71/2 ms. passed a Creek Called Zoncar on the Lbd Side, N 75 W 3 me. to a pt, S. Sd. called Batue a De charm, a plain on the hill opposit. I got out & walked on the L Sd. thro a Charming Bottom of rich Land about one mile then I assended a hill of about 170 foot on the top of which is a Moun and about 100 acres of Land of Dead timber on this hill one of the party says he has found Lead ore a verry extensive Cave under this hill next the river, the Land on the top is fine, This is a very bad part of the river Seven Deer Killed to day by our hunters—one of the horses is Snaged, the other lost his Shous to day the Bottom on the St. Side to day is covered with rushes, not verry good ____ the high land Comes to the bank on the Labd Side and good 2d rate land.
June 4th Monday 1804 a fair day three men out on the right flank passed a large Island on the St. Side Called Seeder Island, this Isd. has a great Deel of Ceedar on it, passed a Small Creek at 1 ms. 15 yd. Wide which we named Nightingale Creek from a Bird of that discription which Sang for us all last night, and is the first of the Kind I ever heard. passed the mouth of Seeder Creek at 7 ms. on the S. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide above Some Small Isds. passed a Creek on the L. S. abt. 15 yds. wide. Mast Creek, here the Sergt. at the helm run under a bending Tree & broke the mast, Some delightful) Land, with a jentle assent about the Creek, well timbered, Oake, Ash, walnut &c. &c. passed, wind N W. by W. passed a Small Creek Called Zan Can C on the L. S; at this last point I got out and walked on the L. Sd. thro a rush bottom for 1 Miles & a Short Distance thro Nettles as high as my brest assended a hill of about 170 foot to a place where the french report that Lead ore has been found, I saw no mineral of that description, Capt Lewis Camped imediately under this hill, to wate which gave me Some time to examine the hill, on the top is a moun of about 6 foot high and about 100 Acres of land which the large timber is Dead in Decending about 50 foot a projecting lime Stone rock under which is a Cave at one place in this projecting rocks I went on one which Spured up and hung over the Water from the top of this rock I had a prospect of the river for 20 or 30 ms. up, from the Cave which incumposed the hill I decended by a Steep decent to the foot, a verry bad part of the river opposit this hill, the river Continu to fall Slowly, our hunters killed 7 Deer to day The land our hunters passed thro to day on the S. S. was Verry fine the latter part of to day. the high land on the S. S. is about 2d rate
June 5th Tuesday, Jurked the Vennison Killed yesterday, after Seting over the Scouting Party or hunder of 3 men Set out at 6 oClock Course N 57° W to a pt. on S. Sd. 5 ms. passed a Creek on L. Sd. I call Lead C of 15 yds passed one on the S. Called Lit. good-womans Creek about 20 yds. wide Passed a Willow Isd. a Butifull Prarie approaching near the river above Lead C & extends to the Mine river in a westerly Derection, passed the Mouth of the Creek of the Big Rock 15 yds Wide at 4 ms. on the Lbd Sd. at 11 oClock brought a Caissie in which was 2 men, from 80 League up the Kansias River, where they wintered and caught a great qty of Beever but unfortunatey lost it by the burning of the plains, the Kansas Nation hunted on the Missourie last Winter and are now persueing the Buffalow in the Plains, passed a Projecting Rock called the Manitou a Painting from this Deavel to the Pt. on the Lbd Side N 23° W 71/2 Ms. The Same course 21/2 ms. Creek Cld. Manitou passed a on the Lbd. Side about 40 yd. wide, a Sand bar in the middle of the River passed up between the Sand & L. Shore one Mile to a Small Creek 10 yd. wide, (I call Sand C). We run on the Sand and was obliged to return to the Starbd Side, I am verry unwell with a Slight feever from a bad cold caught three days ago at the Grand so R—passed a Small Willow Isd. on S. Side, a large one in the Middle of the river, York Swam to the Isd. to pick greens, and Swam back with his greens, the Boat Drew too much water to cross the quick Sands which intervened, She draws 4 foot water, a fair wind our mast being broke by accidence provented our takeing the advantage of it passed the lower point of a large Island, opposit the Current devides between 4 Small Isds on the St Side. we found the water excessively hard for 12 Miles as we were oblged to pass up the center of the Current between two of the Isds. & round the heads of the other 2 the Current Setting imediately against the points which was choked up with Drift for a mile—Above those Isd. on the St. Side we camped altogether our Hunter or Spis discovered the sign of a war party of abt. 10 Men
June 5th Tuesday 1804 after Jurking the meet Killed yesterday and Crossing the hunting party we Set out at 6 oClock, from the last Course & distance, N 51° W. 5 ms. to a pt. on the St. Sd. passed a Small Creek on the Ld. S. I call Lead C. passed a Creek on the S. S. of 20 yds. wide Cald. Lit. Good Womans C. on the L. S. a Prarie extends from Lead C. parrelel with the river to Mine river, at 4 ms. Passed the Creek of the big rock about 15 yds. wide on the L. Sd. at 11 oClock brought too a Small Caissee in which was two french men, from 80 Leagues up the Kansias R. where they wintered, and Cought a great quantity of Beaver, the greater part of which they lost by fire from the Praries, those men inform that the Kansas Nation are now out in the plains hunting Buffalow, they hunted last winter on this river Passed a projecting rock on which was painted a figue and a Creek at 2 ms. above Called Little Manitou Creek from the Painted rock this Creek 20 yds. wide on the L. Sd. passed a Small Creek on L. S. opposit a Verry bad Sand bar of Several ms. in extent, which we named Sand C here my Servent York Swam to the Sand bar to geather greens for our Dinner and returnd with a Sufficent quantity wild Creases or Teng grass, we passed up for 2 ms on the L. S. of this Sand and was obliged to return, the Watr. uncertain the quick Sand Moveing we had a fine wind, but could not make use of it, our Mast being broke, we passed between 2 Small Islands in the Middle of the Current, & round the head of three a rapid Current for one mile and Camped on the S. S. opsd. a large Island in the middle of the river; one Perogue did not get up for two hours, our Scout discovd. the fresh sign of about 10 Inds. I expect that those Indians are on their way to war against the Osages nation probably they are the Saukees
Wednesday the 6th of June 1804. Mended our mast this morning and Set out at 7 oClock, under a Jentle Braise from the S, E by S N 28° W 31/2 miles to a hill on St Sd. passg the N. beige of the Island Called Split rock Island, the river rose last night a foot the Countrey about this Isd. is delightfull large rush bottom of rushes below on the St. Side N 49° W, 11/2 Ms. to the mouth of Split rock River ____ yds. wide on the Starboard Side opod. the pt. of a Isd. passed a place in the projecting rock Called the hole thro the rock, a round Cave pass thro the Pt. of rock's West 11/2 ms. to a pt. on Std. Sd. opposit a Clift of rocks abt 200 foot N 31° W. 4 ms 1/2 to a pt. on L. Side passed Saline Creek on the L. Side a large Salt Lick & Spring 9 me. up the Creek, one bushel of water will make 7 lb. of good Salt
(Information) Took Meridian altitude of sun Limb. 37° 6' 0" equat to ____ of Lattidude.
on this Creek, So great a no of Salt Springs are on it that the water is brackish N 51° W to a Belge of an Isd on the S. Sd. at 3 ms. Passed a Willow Isd. in Middle, Some wind in the after part of to day from the S E, (the Banks are falling in greatly in this part of the river) as also is one Side or the other in all the Course, we assended on the North Side of the Isd. and finding that the perogues Could not Keep up Camped 2 hs. by Sun. on the Sd Sd the land below this is good.
June 6th Wednesday 1804 Mended our Mast this morning &, Set out at 7 oClock under a jentle breise from S. E. by S passed the large Island, and a Creek Called Split rock Creek at 5 ms. on the S. S. psd. a place to the rock from which 20 yds we. this Creek takes its name, a projecting rock with a hole thro a point of the rock, at 8 ms. passed the mouth of a Creek Called Saline or Salt R on the L. Sd. this River is about 30 yds. wide, and has So many Licks & Salt Springs on its banks that the Water of the Creek is Brackish, one Verry large Lick is 9 ms. up on the left Side the water of the Spring in this Lick is Strong as one bushel of the water is said to make 7 lb. of good Salt passed a large Isd. & Several Small ones, the water excessivly Strong, So much So that we Camped Sooner than the usial time to waite for the pirogue, The banks are falling in Verry much to day river rose last night a foot.
Capt. Lewis took meridean altd. of Suns U. L. with the octant above Split Rock C. &made the altitude 37° 6' 00 error of octt. as useal 2° 0' 0" + The Countrey for Several miles below is good, on the top of the high land back is also tolerable land Some buffalow Sign to day
I am Still verry unwell with a Sore throat & head ake
Thursday 7th of June 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Isd from the Isd. N. 61° W. to the mouth of a Creek Called big monitu on St. Sd. 41/2 ms. psd. a Sand bar in the river, Som Buffalow Sign Sent out George Drewyer & Newmon to hunt Capt Lewis and 6 men went to a Lick up this Creek on the right Side over 2 mes. & 2 other not far above the water runs out of the bank & not verry Strong. 3 to 500 G for a bushell.
S 88° W. 2 Miles to a pt. on Lbd. Side, high bluff on the Stbd. Side, Monitou Creek is 30 yds. Wide at the mouth, passed a painted part of a Projecting rock we found ther a Den of rattle Snakes, Killed 3 proceeded on passed, S 81°W 4 ms. to apt. on S. Side passed an Island in the Middle of the river, S. 87° W. to a pt. of high Land on the L. S. pass'g over the Middle of a willow Island, ms. 31/2 proceed on 1/2 a mile on this Course a Camped at the mouth of Good womans river on the S. S. about 35 yds wide, & navagable Som D. our hunters brought in 3 bear this evening-& infd. that the Countrey between this R. & the Monitou R is rich and well watered, Capt. Lewis went out an hour this evening
June 7th Thursday 1804 Set out early passed the head of the Island opposit which we Camped last night, and brackfast at the Mouth of a large Creek on the S. S. Of 30 yds wide Called big Monetou, from the pt. of the Isd. or Course of last night to the mouth of this Creek is N 61° W 41/2 ms. a Short distance above the mouth of this Creek, is Several Courious Paintings and Carveing in the projecting rock of Limestone inlade with white red & blue flint, of a verry good quallity, the Indians have taken of this flint great quantities. We landed at this Inscription and found it a Den of rattle Snakes, we had not landed 3 minutes before three verry large Snakes wer observed on the Crevises of the rocks & Killed—at the mouth of the last mentioned Creek Capt. Lewis took four or five men & went to Some Licks or Springs of Salt water from two to four miles up the Creek on Rt. Side the water of those Springs are not Strong, Say from 4 to 600 Gs. of water for a Bushel of Salt passed Some Small willow Islands and Camped at the Mouth of a Small river called Good Womans River this river is about 35 yards wide and Said to be navagable for Perogues Several Leagues Capt. Lewis with 2 men went up the Creek a Short distance. our Hunters brought in three Bear this evening, and informs that the Countrey thro which they passed from the last Creek is fine rich land, & well watered.
June 8th Friday Set out at Daylight proceeded on the Course of last night S 87° W 3 ms passed a Willow Island, from the Point of last Course S 81° W. 3 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passd a ____ Isd. in the middle of the river, passd a run on the Ld S. above a pt. of rocks 3 ms. on which thir is a number of Deer Licks, N 88° W. 3 Ms. to a pt L S. N. 83° W 2 ms. to the Mo of Mine River, psd an Isd.—This river is 90 yards wide & navagable for Perogues about 90 Ms. I went out on the L S. about 4 ms. below this R. and found the Countrey for one mile back good Land and well watered the hills not high with a gentle assent from the river, well timbered with oake, walnit Hickory ash, &c. the land Still further back becoms thin and open, with Black & rasp Berries, and Still further back the Plains Commence, The french inform that Lead ore is found on this river in Several places, it heads up between the Osagees & Kansas River the right hand folk passes in a Short distance of the Missourie at the antient Little Ozages Villages our hunter Killed, 2 Deer, after Staying one hour at the mouth of this River, Cap Lewis went out & proceeded on one Mile & came in, he fount the land in the point high and fine Course N. 64° W 1 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. N. 80° W to the Lower pot a Id. on L. S. passed a Small Isd. in the m. R. at (3 Ms.) met 3 men on a Caussee from R Dis Soux, above The Mahar Nation loaded with fur. Camped on the Lower point of an Id. L. S. called the Mills, here I found Kegs an Pummey stone, and a place that fur or Skins had been burred by the hunters our Hunters Killed 5 Deer, Some rain, the Countrey on the S. S. is Verry fine
8th of June, Friday 1804 Set out this morning at Daylight proceeden on the Course of last night Passed two willow Islands & a Small Creek above a Rock point on the L. S. at 6 miles on which there is a number of Deer Licks, passed the Mine River at 9 ms. this river is about 70 yards wide at its mouth and is Said to be navagable for Perogues 80 or 90 ms. the main branch passes near the place where the Little osage Village formerly Stood on the Missouries, & heads between the Osarge & Kansias Rivers, the left hand fork head with nearer Branches of the Osage River, The french inform that Lead Ore has been found in defferent parts of this river, I took Sjt. Floyd and went out 4 Ms. below this river, I found the land Verry good for a Mile or 11/2 Ms. back and Sufficiently watered with Small Streams which lost themselves in the Missouries bottom, the Land rose gradeuelly from the river to the Summit of the high Countrey which is not more that 120 foot above High Water mark, we joined the Boat & Dined in the point above the mouth of this River, Capt. Lewis went out above the river & proceeded on one mile, finding the Countrey rich, the wedes & Vines So thick & high he came to the Boat—proceeded on passed an Island and Camped at the lower point of an Island on the L. S. Called the Island of mills about 4 ms. above Mine River at this place I found Kanteens, Axs, Pumey Stone & peltrey hid & buried (I suppose by some hunters) none of them (except the pumey Stone) was teched by one of our party, our hunters Killed 5 Deer to day, Commenced raining Soon after we Came too which prevented the party Cooking their provisions- our Spies inform that the Countrey they passed thro on S. S. is a fine high bottom, no water.
This day we met 3 men on a Cajaux from the River of the Soux above the Mahar nation those men had been hunting 12 mo. & made about 900$ in pelts. & furs they were out of Provesions and out of Powder. rained this night
9th of June Satterday Set out early, water verry Swift got fast on a log, detained us 1/4 hour Hard rain last night. N 39° W 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on the S. S. opposit the Commencement of the 1st Prarie, Called Prarie of the Arrows,1 the river at this place about 300 yds. Wide passed a Small Creek, Arrow Creek 8 yds. wide L. Sd. the Current exceedingly Strong
N 34° E 2 ms. to the Belg of a Small Island Situated on the L. Sd. Passed the mo. of Arrow Creek N 83°W 11/2 ms. to a pt on L. S. opposit Black bird C Small passed the head of the Isd. & a small Willow one to the L. S. (Os merdn. altd. back obsvn. 37 00' 00) N. 39° W 2 Ms. to a pt. of High Land on the L. Side opst. a pt. on St. S. River about 350 yds. wide at this pt. a Wind from the S at 4 oClock (Handson Sutn) on the High pt. a prarie & Small Lake below N 32° E 31/2 Ms. to a pt. on L. S. passed an Isld. in the mid R—in passing up on the S. S. opsd. the Isd. the Sturn of the boat Struck a log which was not proceiveable the Curt. Struck her bow and turn the boat against Some drift & Snags which below with great force; This was a disagreeable and Dangerous Situation, particularly as immense large trees were Drifting down and we lay imediately in their Course,—Some of our men being prepared for all Situations leaped into the water Swam ashore with a roap, and fixed themselves in Such Situations, that the boat was off in a fiew minits, I can Say with Confidence that our party is not inferior to any that was ever on the waters of the Missoppie we Crossed to the Island and Camped, our hunters lay on the S. S. the wind from the S. W. the river continue to rise Slowly Current excessive rapid—The Countrey on the S. S. high bottom & Delghtfull land that on the L. S. is up land or hills of from 50 to 100 foot higher than the bottom & a thinly wooded, Countrey, Lands tolerably Good; Comminced raining at 5 oClock and continued by intervales the greater part of the night. We discovered that one of our French hands had a Conpt.—We Commsd Doctering, I hope the Success in this case, usial to
9th of June 1804 Satturday a fair morning, the River rise a little we got fast on a Snag Soon after we Set out which detained us a Short time passed the upper Point of the Island Several Small Chanels running out of the River below a Bluff & Prarie (Called the Prariee of Arrows) where the river is confined within the width of 300 yds. Passed a Creek of 8 yds. wide Called Creek of Arrows, this Creek is Short and heads in the Praries on the L. S. passed a Small Creek Called Blackbird Creek S. S. and One Islands below & a Prarie above on the L. S. a Small Lake above the Prarie—opposit the Lower point of the 2d. Island on the S. S. we had like to have Stove our boat, in going round a Snag her Stern Struck a log under Water & She Swung round on the Snag, with her broad Side to the Current expd. to the Drifting timber, by the active exertions of our party we got her off in a fiew Mints. without engerey and Crossed to the Island where we Campd. our hunters lay on the S. S. the Perogue Crossed without Seeing them & the banks too uncertain to Send her over- Some wind from the S accompanied with rain this evening—The Lands on the S. S. is a high rich bottom the L. S. appears oven and of a good quallity runing gradually to from fifty to 100 foot.
June 10th Sunday 1804 Some rain last night we set out early Saw a number of Goslings this morning, Continued on the Course of last night, thence N. 8 E. 21/2 ms. to a pt. on the L. S. passed a part of the River that the banks are falling in takeing with them large trees of Cotton woods which is the Common groth in the Bottoms Subject to the flud North 1 Me along the L. Side N. 40° W. 1 ms. along the L, S. opposit the two Charletons, on the N. Side, those rivers mouth together, the 1st 40 yds. wide the next 90 yds. Wide and navagable Some distance in the Countrey, the land below is high & not verry good. Came to and took Mdnl. altd. of Sons U. L. back obsvn. with the octant Made it 37° 12' 00", delayed 11/2 Hour. N. 70° W 1/2 of a me. along the L. Sd.—S 60° W 1/2 m. on L. S. the Same Course to the Pt. S. S. 11/2 Ms. We halted and Capt Lewis Killed a Buck the Current is excessively Swift about this place N. 80° W. 3 ms to a pt. on S. S. passed a Isd. Called Sheeco Islan wind from the N W Camped in a Prarie on the L. S., Capt Lewis & my Self Walked out 3 ms. found the Country roleing open & rich, with plenty of water, great qts of Deer I discovered a Plumb which grows on bushes the hight of Hasle, those plumbs are in great numbers, the bushes beare Verry full, about double the Sise of the wild plumb Called the Osage Plumb & am told they are finely flavoured.
10th of June 1804 A hard rain last night, we Set out this morning verry early passed Some bad placies in the river Saw a number of Goslings morning pass near a Bank which was falling in at the time we passed, passed the two River of Charletons which mouth together, above Some high land which has a great quantity of Stone Calculated for whetstons the first of those rivers is about 30 yds. Wide & the other is 70 yds wd. and heads Close to the R.
Dumoin The Aieways Nation have a Village on the head of these River they run through an even Countrey and is navagable for Perogues Cap Lewis took Medn. altd. of sun U. L with Octant, back obsvn. made it 37° 12' 00"—delayd 11/2 hours.
Capt. Lewis Killed a large Buck, passed a large Isd. called Shecco and Camped in a Prarie on the L. S. I walked out three miles, found the prarie composed of good Land and plenty of water roleing & interspursed with points of timberd land, Those Praries are not like those, or a number of those E. of the Mississippi Void of every thing except grass, they abound with Hasel Grapes & a wild plumb of a Superior quallity, called the Osages Plumb Grows on a bush the hight of a Hasel and hang in great quantities on the bushes I Saw great numbers of Deer in the Praries, the evening is Cloudy, our party in high Spirits.
11 June Monday—as the wind blew all this day from the N, W. which was imedeately a head we Could not Stur, but took the advantage of the Delay and Dried our wet articles examined provisons and Cleaned arms, my Cold is yet verry bad—the river begining to fall our hunters killed two Deer, G Drewry killed 2 Bear in the Prareie to day, men verry lively Danceing & Singing &c.
11th June 1804 Monday The N W. wind blew hard & Cold as this wind was imediately a head, we Could not proceed we took the advantage of this Delay and Dried our wet articles examin'd Provisions &c. &c. the river begining to fall the hunters killed two Deer G. Drewyer Killed two Bear in the Prarie, they were not fat. we had the meat Jurked and also the Venison, which is a Constant Practice to have all the fresh meat not used, Dried in this way.
12th of June, Tuesday We Set out early, passed thro a verry bad bend N. 25° W. 31/2 to apt. L. S. N. 70° W. 21/2 ms to apt. on S. S. passed a Sand bar-N 60° W 31/2 ms. to a pt. on S. S. passed Plumb. C at 1/2 a me. on L. S. and halted to Dine, and 2 Caussease Came Down from the Soux nation, we found in the party an old man who had been with the Soux 20 years & had great influence with them, we provld. on this old man Mr. Duriaur to return with us, with a view to get Some of the Soux Chiefs to go to the U. S. purchased 300 lb. of Voyagers Grece @ 5$ Hd. made Some exchanges & purchuses of Mockersons & found it Late & concluded to incamp.
Those people inform that no Indians are on the river, The Countrey on each Side of the river is good
12th of June, Tuesday 1804 Set out early passed Some bad Placies, and a Small Creek on the L. S. Called plumb Creek at abt. 1 me. at 1 oClock we brought too two Chaussies one Loaded with furs & Pelteries, the other with Greece buffalow grease & tallow We purchased 300 lb. of Greese, and finding that old Mr. Durioun was of the party we questioned him untill it was too late to Go further and Concluded to Camp for the night, those people inform nothing of much information Colcluded to take old Durioun back as fur as the Soux nation with a view to get some of their Chiefs to Visit the Presdt.
of the United S. (This man being a verry Confidential friend of those people, he having resided with the nation 20 odd years) and to accompany them on
13th June Wednesday we Set out early passed a verry round bend to L. S. passed two Creeks 1 me. apt. Called Creeks of the round Bend, between those Creeks Stbd S. is a butifull Prarie, in which the antient Missourie Indians had a Village, at this place 300 of them were killed by the Saukees, a fair Day. Passed the antient Missouries villages on right Course N 40° W 21/2 pt. L S., S 29° W 3 ms. pt. S. S., this nation once the Most Noumerous is now almost extinct, about 30 of them, liveing with Otteaus on the R. Platt, the remainder all distroyed, took altd. of S. U L with qdt. which gave N 28 W. 11/2 ms to a pt. S. S. Passed some Charming land, I have not Seen any high hils above Charliton and the hits below for Several days Cannot to turmed hills but high Land, not exceeding 100 abov the high water mark N 30° W, to a pt. L. S. 2 ms. passed a verry bad Sand bar, where the boat was nearly turning & fastening in the quick Sand and came too in the mouth of Grand R. S. S. this River is about 120 yards wide and navigable for Purogues a great distance, it heads with the River Dumoine, passing the river Carlton. a Butifull open Prarie Coms to the river below its mouth, we landed and walked to the hills which is abt. 1/2 a mile. the Lower prarie over flows. the hunters Killd. a Bare & Dere, this is a butifull place the Prarie rich & extinsive, Took Some Looner Observations which Kept Cap L. & my Self up untill half past 11 oClock.
13th June Wednesday, 1804 We Set out early passed a round bend to the S. S. and two Creeks Called the round bend Creeks between those two Creeks and behind a Small willow Island in the bend is a Prarie in which the Missouries Indians once lived and the Spot where 300 of them fell a Sacrifise to the fury of the Saukees This nation (Missouries) once the most noumerous nation in this part of the Continent now reduced to about 80 fes. and that fiew under the protection of the Otteaus on R Platt who themselves are declineing passed Som willow Isds. and bad Sand bars, Twook Medn. altitude with Octent back observation it gave for altd. on its Low L 36° 58' 0" the E Enstrement 2° 00' 00" +. the Hills or high land for Several days past or above the 2 Charletons does not exceed 100 foot passed a Batteau or Sand roleing where the Boat was nearly turning over by her Strikeing & turning on the Sand. We came too in the Mouth of Grand River on S. S. and Camped for the night, this River is from 80 to 100 yards wide at its Mouth and navagable for Perogues a great distance This river heads with the R. Dumoine below its mouth is a butifull Plain of bbttom land the hills rise at 1/2 a mile back
The lands about this place is either Plain or over flown bottom Capt Lewis and my Self walked to the hill from the top of which we had a butifull prospect of Serounding Countrey in the open Prarie we Caught a racoon, our hunters brought in a Bear & Deer we took Some Luner observation this evening.
14th June, Thursday We set out at 6 oClock after a thick fog proceeded on verry well S. 33 W 2 Ms. to the lower pt of an Isld. S. S. S. 60° W. thro a narrow 1 me channel to a Small prarie S. S. opposit this Isd. on L. L. is a Butifull high Plain. from the Isd. S. 70'W. to a pt. L. S. 21/2 ms. just below a piec of High Land on the S. S. Called the place of Snakes, passed the worst place I have Seen on L. S. a Sand bar makeing out 2/3 Cross the river Sand Collecting &c forming Bars and Bars washg a way, the boat Struck and turned, She was near oversetting we saved her by Some extrodany exertions of our party (ever ready to inconture any fatigue for the premotion of the enterpris), I went out to walk on the Sand Beech, & Killed a Deer & Turky during the time I was from the boat a Caussee came too from the Pania nation loaded with furs We gave them Some whiskey and Tobacco & Settled Some desputes & parted S. 5 E. 3 ms. to pt. on S. S. passed a Creek S. S. 25 yds. wd. Called Snake Creek or (____) passed a bad Sand bar S. S. in passing which we were obliged to run great Sesque of Loseing both Boat & men, Camped above, G. Drewyer tels of a remarkable Snake inhabiting a Small lake 5 ms. below which gobbles like a Turkey & may be herd Several miles, This Snake is of Size.
14th, June Thursday we Set out at 6 oClock, after a thick fog passed thro a narrow pass on the S. S. which forms a large Isd. opposit the upper point of this Island on the L. S. is one of the worst quick or moveing Sand bars which I have Seen not withstanding all our precaustons to Clear the Sands & pass between them (which was the way we were Compd. to pass from the immens Current & falling banks on the S. S.) the Boat Struck the point of one from the active exertions of the men, prevented her turning, if She had turned She must have overset. we met a Causseu from the Pania on the River Platt, we detained 2 hours with a view of engageing one of the hands to go to the Pania nation with a View to get those people to meet us on the river. I went out (Shot a Deer) we passd a highland &clay bluff on the S. S. Called the Snake bluff from the number of Snakes about this place, we passd a Creek above the Bluff about 18 yds. wide, This Creek is Called Snake Creek, a bad Sand bar Just below which we found difficuelty in passing & Campd above, our Hunters Came in. George Drewyer, gives the following act. of a Pond, & at abt. 5 miles below the S. S. Passed a Small Lake in which there was many Deer feeding he heard in this Pond a Snake makeing Goubleing Noises like a turkey. he fired his gun & the noise was increased, he has heard the indians Mention This Species of Snake one Frenchman give a Similar account
15 June Friday 1804, we Set out early proceeded on about 1 me. and the Boat turned on a Sawyer which was near doeing her great damage, the river is riseing fast & the water exceedingly Swift, passd. a bad Sand bar on which we Stuck for a Short time this is Said to be the worst part of the river and Camped opsd. the bend in which the Antient Villages of the little Osarge & Missouries, the lower or first of those villagies (L. Osages) is Situated in Butifull Plain at the foot of Some riseing land, in front of their Viliges next the river is a butifull bottom Plain in which they raised their Corn &c. back of the Village the high Prarie extends back to the Osarge River, about 3 Ms. above & in view the Missouries Nation resided under the protection of the Osarges, after their nation was riducd by the Saukees below, thos built their Village in the Same low Prarie and lived there many years, the war was So hot & both nations becom So reduced that the Little Osage & a fiew of the Missoures moved & built a village 5 ms near the Grand Osage, the rest of the Missoures went and took protection under the Otteaus on Platt river
15th, June, Friday 1804 Set out early and had not proceeded far e'er we wheeled on a Sawyer which was near injuring us Verry much, passed a plain on the L. S. a Small Isd. in the midle the river riseing, water verry Swift Passed a Creek on the L. S. passed between two Islands, a verry bad place, Moveing Sands, we were nearly being Swallowed up by the roleing Sands over which the Current was So Strong that we Could not Stem it with our Sales under a Stiff breese in addition to our ores, we were Compelled to pass under a bank which was falling in, and use the Toe rope occasionally, Continued up pass two other Small Islands and Camped on the S. S. Nearly opposit the Antient Village of the Little Osarges and below the Antt. Village of the Missoures both Situations in view an within three Ms. of each other, the Osage were Settled at the foot a hill in a butifell Plain which extends back quite to the Osage River, in front of the Vilg. Next to the river is an ellegent bottom Plain which extends Several miles in length on the river in this low Prarie the Missouries lived after They were reduced by the Saukees at Their Town Some Dists. below. The little osage finding themselves much oppressed by the Saukees & other nations, left this place & built a village 5 ms. from the Grand Osarge Town about ____ years ago. a few of the Missoures accompanied them, the remainder of that nation went to the Otteaus on the River Platt. The River at this place is about 1 ms. wide our hunters did not Come in this evening the river beginning to fall
16th June Satterday Set out at 7 oClock Proceed on N. 68°W. 21/2 ms. passed a Isd. close on the S. S. at the lower point Drewer & Willard had camped & had with them 2 bear & 2 Deer we took in the meat & proceeded on. Some rain this morning West 2 Ms. pass an Isd on S. S. & prarie, to a Belge of Snag Isd. L. S. a butifull extensive Prarie on S. S. Hills to about 9 ms. distant. Mr. Mackey has Laid down the rems. of an old fort in this Prarie, which I cannot find S 85 W. 1 me. along the Isd. L. S.—S 61° W alg L. S. 1 me. S 30° W, 3, ms. to pt. S. S. opsd. an Isd. & head of the last S 40° W 1 me. S. S. Passed a verry bad place where the Sand was moving constantly, I walked on Shore obsd. fine high Bottom land on S. S. Camped late this evening.
16th, June Satturday 1804 Set out at 7 oClock at about a mile 1/2 we Came to the Camp of our hunters, they had two Bear & two Deer proceeded on pass a Island on the S. S. a heavy rain came on & lasted a Short time, we came to on the S. S. in a Prarie at the place where Mr. Mackey lay down a old french fort, I could See no traces of a Settlement of any Kind, in this plain I discovered a Kind of Grass resembling Timothey which appeared well calculated for Hay, this Plain is verry extensive in the evening I walked on the S. S. to see if any timber was Convt. to make Oars, which we were much in want of, I found Som indifferent timber and Struck the river above the Boat at a bad Sand bar the worst I had Seen which the boat must pass or Drop back Several Miles & Stem a Swift Current on the opsd Side of an Isd. the Boat however assended the middle of the Streem which was diffucult Dangerious We Came to above this place at Dark and Camped in a bad place, the misquitoes and Ticks are noumerous & bad.
June 17 1804 Rope walk Camp The Current of the River at this place is a Stick will float 48 poles 6 feet in the rapidest part in 23 Seconds, further out is 34, Still further 65—74—78 & 82 are the Trials we have made.
June 17 Sunday 1804 Cloudy Wind, S. E. Set out early S. 65° W 1 Me. Came too to Make ores, and a Cord for a Toe Rope all this day imployed in getting out Ores, & makeing for the use of the Boat out of a large Cable rope which we have, G Drewyer Came up a Bear & 2 Deer, also a fine horse which he found in the woods, Supposed to have been left by Some war party from the osages, The Ticks are numerous and large and have been trousom all the way and the Musquetors are beginning to be verry troublesome, my Cold Continues verry bad the French higherlins Complain for the want of Provisions, Saying they are accustomed to eat 5 & 6 times a day, they are roughly rebuked for their presumption, the Country about abounds in Bear Deer & Elk and the S. S. the lands are well timbered and rich for 2 ms. to a butifull Prarie which risies into hills At 8 or 9 ms. back—on the L. S a Prarie coms. on the bank which is high and contines back rich & well watered as far
June 17th Sunday 1804 (S. 65°W. me. S. Side-) Cloudy morning wind from the S. E. we Set out early and proceeded on one mile & came too to make oars, & repair our Cable & toe rope &c. &c. which was necessary for the Boat & Perogues, Sent out Sjt. Pryor and Some men to get ash timber for ores, and Set Some men to make a Toe Rope out of the Cords of a Cable which had been provided by Capt Lewis at Pitts burg for the Cable of the boat—George Drewyer our hunter and one man came in with 2 Deer & a Bear, also a young Horse, they had found in the Prarie, this horse has been in the Prarie a long time and is fat, I suppose he has been left by Some war party against the Osage, This is a Crossing place for the war partis against that nation from the Saukees, Aiaouez, & Souix. The party is much aflicted with Boils and Several have the Decissentary, which I contribute to the water
The Countrey about this place is butifull on the river rich & well timbered on the S. S. about two miles back a Prarie coms. which is rich and interspursud with groves of timber, the County rises at 7 or 8 miles Still further back and is roleing—on the L. S. the high lands & Prarie Corns. in the bank of the river and Continus back, well watered and abounds in Der Elk & Bear The Ticks & Musquetors are verry troublesom.
June 18th Monday Some raind last night, Sent out 6 Hunters to day across the R. they Killed 5 Deer & Colter a Bear verry fat we continue to repare our ropes & make oars all day, heavy rain all the fore pt. of the day, the party Drying meat & greesing themselves, Several men with the Disentary, and two thirds of them with ulsers or Boils, Some with 8 or 10 of those Turners Mesquetors verry bad we finish our Cords & oars this evening Men in Spirits
June 18th Monday Some rain last night, and Some hard Showers this morning which delay our work verry much, Send out Six hunters in the Prarie on the L S. they kill 5 Deer & Coltr a Bear, which verry large & fat, the party to wok at the oars, make rope, & jurk their meat all Day Dry our wet Sales &c. in the evening, The misquiter verry bad
June 19th Tuesday rain last night after fixing the new Oars and makeing all necessary arrangements, we Set out under a jentle breese from the S. E. and proceeded on passed two large Islands on the S. S. leaving J. Shields and one man to go by land with the horses Some verry hard water, passed Several Islands & Sand bars to day at the head of one we were obliged to cleare away Driftwood to pass, passed a Creek on the L. Side Called Tabboe 15 yds. wide passed a large Creek at the head of an Island Called Tiger River on the S. S. The Island below this Isd. is large and Called the Isle Of Panters, formed on the S. S. by a narrow Channel, I observed on the Shore Goose & Rasp berries in abundance in passing Some hard water round a Point of rocks on the L. S. we were obliged to take out the roape & Draw up the Boat for 1/2 a mile, we Came too on the L. S. near a Lake of the Sircumfrance of Several miles Situated on the L. S. about two miles from the river this Lake is Said to abound in all kinds of fowls, great quanties of Deer frequent this Lake dureing Summer Season, and feed on the hows &c. &c. they find on the edgers the Lands on the North Side of the river is rich and Sufficiently high to afford Settlements, the Lds. on the South Side assends Gradually from the river not So rich, but of a good quallity and appear well watered
June 20th, Wednesday Set out after a heavy Shower of rain and proceeded on the Same Course of last night passed a large butifull Prarie on the S. S. opposit a large Island, Calld Saukee Prarie, a gentle breese from the S. W. Some butiful high lands on the L. S. passed Som verry Swift water to day, I saw Pelicans to day on a Sand bar, my servant York nearly loseing an eye by a man throwing Sand into it, we came too at the lower Point of a Small Island, the party on Shore we have not Seen Since we passed Tiger R—The Land appeard verry good on each Side of the River to day and well timbered, we took Some Loner observations, which detained us untill 1 oClock a butifull night but the air exceedingly Damp, & the mosquiters verry troublesom
21st June Thursday 1804 river raised 3 Inches last night after our bow man Peter Crousat a half Mahar Indian examined round this Small Isd. for the best water, we Set out determined to assd. on the North Side, and Sometimes rowing Poleing & Drawing up with a Strong Rope we assended without wheeling or receving any damige more than breakeing one of my S. Windows, and looseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows
Two men Sent out to hunt this afternoon Came in with a Deer, at Sun Set The ellement had every appearance of wind, The hunters inform me that the high Countrey on the S. S. is of a good quallity, and well timbd. The High lands on the L. Side is equally good The bottom land on this river is alike, 1st low and covd. with Cotton wood & willows Subject to over flow the 2nd is higher groth Cotton Walnut ash Mulberry Linn & Sycomore
21st June Thursday The river rose 3 Inches last night after the Bows man Peter Crousat viewed The water on each Side of the Island which presented a most unfavourable prospect of Swift water over roleing Sands which rored like an immence falls, we Concluded to assend on the right Side, and with much dificuilty, with the assistance of a long Cord or Tow rope, & the anchor we got the Boat up with out any furthr dang. than Bracking a Cabbin window & loseing Some oars which were Swong under the windows, passed four Isds to day two large & two Small, behind the first large Island two Creeks mouth Called (1) Eue-bert Creek & River & Isd. the upper of those Creeks head against the Mine River & is large, passed a verry remarkable bend in the River to the S. forming an accute angle, the high lands come to the river on the S. S. opposit the upper large Island, this Isd. is formed by a narrow chanel thro. the Pt. of the remarkable bend just mentiond below this Isd. on the L. S. is a Couenter Current of about a mile—passed between Several Small Islands Situated near the L. Side and camped above on the Same Side, Two men Sent out to hunt this evening brought in a Buck & a pore Turkey.
at Sun Set the atmespier presented every appearance of wind, Blue & white Streeks Centering at the Sun as She disappeared and the Clouds Situated to the S. W, Guilded in the most butifull manner. The Countrey and Lands on each Side of the river is various as usial and may be classed as follows. viz: the low or over flown points or bottom land, of the groth of Cotton & Willow, the 2nd or high bottom of rich furtile Soils of the groth of Cotton, Walnut, Som ash, Hack berry, Mulberry, Lynn & Sycamore. the third or high Lands risees gradually from the 2nd bottom (cauht whin it Coms to the river then from the river) about 80 or 100 foot roleing back Supplied with water the Small runs of (which losees themselves in the bottom land) and are covered with a variety of timber Such as Oake of different Kinds Blue ash, walnut &c. &c. as far as the Praries, which I am informed lie back from the river at some places near & others a great Distance
22nd June Friday after a Violent gust of wind accompanied with rain from the West, which commenced at Day brake, and lasted about one hour, we Set out under a gentle Breeze from the N W. and proceeded on S. 14°W. 21/2 ms. to pt. on L. S. Ord Killed a goose, S 25 W 3 Ms. to a pt. on S. S. psd. Snags and Swift water on the S. S.—S. 66° W. 1/2 a me. on S pt. N 60 W 41/2 me. to pt. L. S. passed a large Isd. on the S. S.- (Ferenthiers Thermometr at 3 oClock P.M. 87 d which is 11 d above Summr heat) and one on the L. S. opposit against which there is a handsom Prarie of high Bottom & up Land, Capt Lewis went out in this Prarie & walked Several miles, Come to opposit the mouth of a large Creek on the S. S. Called River of the Fire Prarie at the mouth of this creek the party on Shore Shields & Collins was camped waiting for our arrival & inform that they Pass'd thro Some fine Lands, and well watered G D. Killed a fine Bear to day
22nd June Friday river rose 4 Inchs last night. I was waken'd before day light this morning by the guard prepareing the boat to receve an apparent Storm which threttened violence from the West at day light a violent wind accompanied with rain cam from the W. and lasted about one hour, it Cleared away, and we Set out and proceeded on under a gentle breeze from the N. W. passed Some verry Swift water Crouded with Snags, pass two large Island opposit each other, and immediately opposit a large & extensive Prarie on the Labd Side, This Prarie is butifull a high bottom for 11/2 a mile back and risees to the Common leavel of the Countrey about 70 or 80 feet and extends back out of view. Capt. L walked on Shore a few miles this after noon (at 3 oClock P M. Ferents Thermometer Stood at 87°: = to 11 d above Summer heat) we came to on the L. Side opposit the mouth of a large Creek Called the River of the Fire Prarie, at the mouth of this Creek the Party on Shore were waiting our arrival, they informed that the Lands thro which they passed was fine & well watered
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N W. Set out at 7 oC Proceeded on N. 70 d. W 2 Ms. to an Isd. Close on the S. S. I went on Shore & walked up thro a rich bottom for about Six miles, Killed a Deer & much fatigued N. 75 E. to a point in a bend L. S. 11/2 the river fell 8 Inches last night.
23rd June Satturday Some wind this morning from the N. W. we Set out at 7 oClock, and proceeded on to the head of a Island on the S. S. the wind blew hard and down the river which prevented the Pty moveing from this Island the whole day, Cap. Lewis had the arms examined &c. at the lower end of this Island I got out of the boat to walk on Shore, & expected the party on Shore would overtake me at the head of the Island, they did not & I proceeded on round a round and extensive bend in the river, I Killed a Deer & made a fire expecting the boat would Come up in the evening. the wind continueing to blow prevented their moveing, as the distance by land was too great for me to return by night I concluded to Camp, Peeled Some bark to lay on, and geathered wood to make fires to Keep off the musquitor & Knats. Heard the party on Shore fire, at Dark Drewyer came to me with the horses, one fat bear & a Deer, river fell 8 Inches last night
Sunday June 24th set out at 1/2 after six continuing the course on the Lard. side N. 80 E 1/4 of a mile to point Lard. N. 551/4 of a mile to point Lard. Due west to a point Stard 3 miles good water
(I joined the Boat theis morning with a fat Bear & two Deer, last evining I Struck the river about 6 miles (by land) abov the Boat, and finding it too late to get to the Boat, and the wind blowing So hard Down the river that She could not assend, I concluded to Camp, altho I had nothing but my hunting Dress, & the Musquitors Ticks & Knats verry troublesom, I concid to hunt on a Willow Isd. Situated close under the Shore, in Crossing from an Island, I got mired, and was obliged to Craul oat, a disegreeable Situation & a Diverting one of any one who Could have Seen me after I got out, all Covered with mud, I went my Camp & Craped off the Mud and washed my Clothes, and fired off my gun which was answered by George Drewyer who was in persute of me & came up at Dark we feasted of meet & water the latter we made great use of being much fatigued & thirsty—The meet which hung up near the water a large Snake made Several attempts to get to it and was so Detirmined that I Killed him in his attempt, the Snake appeared to make to that part of the meet which Contained the milk of a Doe, On this part of the River I observe great quantites of Bear Sign, they are after Mulbiries which are in great quantities)
N 85 d W. 41/2 ms. to a pt. on L Side, Came to above the mouth of a Creek on the L. S. abt. 20 yds. Wide Called Hay Cabbin Creek Latd. of this place is 38° 37'5" North—Capt. Lewis took Sergt. Floyd and walked on Shore, George Drewyer Killed 2 Deer R Fields Killed a Deer dureing the time we wer Jurking the meet I brought in, West 1/2 ml. along the L. S.
S 21° W. 3 ms. to a pt. on the S. S. pass 2 Creek on the S. S. just above Some rocks Some distance from Shore 1 of These Creek is Called Sharriton-Cartie, a Prarie on the L. S. near the river. Capt Lewis Killed a Deer, & Collins 3. emince number of Deer on both Sides of the river, we pass between two Sand bars at head of which we had to raise the boat 8 Inch to get her over, Camped at the Lower point of a Isd. on the L S. the Party in high Spirits.
24th, June Sunday Set out at half after Six. I joined the boat this morng at 8 oClock (I will only remark that dureing the time I lay on the band waiting for the boat, a large Snake Swam to the bank imediately under the Deer which was hanging over the water, and no great distance from it, I threw chunks and drove this Snake off Several times. I found that he was So determined on getting to the meet I was Compelld to Kill him, the part of the Deer which attracted this Snake I think was the milk from the bag of the Doe.) I observed great quts. of Bear Signs, where they had passed in all Directions thro the bottoms in Serch of Mulberries, which were in great numbers in all the bottoms thro which our party passed.)
Passed the mouth of a Creek 20 yds. wide name Hay Cabbin Creek from camps of Straw built on it came to about 1/2 me. above this Creek & jurked, the meet killed yesterday and this morning Lattitude of this place 38° 37' 5" N. Capt. Lewis walked on Shore & Killed a Deer, pass a bad part of the river, on the S. S. the rocks projected into the river Some distance, a Creek above Called Sharston Carta, in the evening we Passed thro betwen two Sand bars at the head we had to raise the Boat 8 Inches together over, Camped near the lower point of an Island on the L. Side, party in high Spirrits. The Countrey on each Side of the river is fine interspersed with Praries, in which imence herds of Deer is Seen, on the banks of the river we observe numbers of Deer watering and feeding on the young willow, Several Killed to day
Monday June 25th a heavy fog Detaind us about an hour Set out passed the Isd on a course from the last point S 49° W, 3 Ms to a point on the S. S. S 55° W 1/2 Me. S. S. a Coal-Bank on the opposit or L. S Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of excellente CoaL the wind from the N. W a Small Creek Called Coal or (Chabonea)3 N 50° W to the Pt, L. S. 31/2 Miles Hard water & logs, Bank falling in, Passed a Small Creek L. S. Called Labeenie a Prarie is Situated on the S. S. a Short Distance from the river, which contains great quantities of wild apples of the Size of the Common apple, the French Say is well flavered when ripe, which is the time the leaves begin to fall N 70°W 1/2 me. along the right Side of a Willow Isd. Situated on the L. Side S. 80° W 1/2 me. L. S. S 55° W. 1/2 me. to Pt. of Smal Isd. L. S. S 15° W 1/2 me. L. S.—S. 2° E 2 me. pt on Lbd S. (here I will only remark that the Deer in the Morning & evening are feeding in great numbers on the banks of the River, they feed on young willow, and amuse themselves running on the open beeches or points) We have hard water this afternoon round the heads of Small Islds. on the L. Side below a Small High Prarie S. 48° W. 2 Ms. pt. S. S. passd. a small Isd. on which we Camped The party on Shore did not join us to day, or have we Seen or her of them river falling fast about 8 Inches in 24 hours, the Hills on the L. S. this evening higher than usial about 160 or 180 feet. the lands appear of a Simalier to those passed
25th, June Monday a thick fog detained us untile 8 oClock, passed a Island, at 3 miles passed a Coal-mine, or Bank of Stone Coal, on the South Side, this bank appears to Contain great quantity of fine Coal, the river being high prevented our Seeeing that contained in the Cliffs of the best quallity, a Small Creek mouth's below This bank Call'd after the bank Chabonea Creek the Wind from the N. W. passed a Small Creek on the L. Side at 12 oClock, Called Bennet's Creek The Praries Come within a Short distance of the river on each Side which Contains in addition to Plumbs Raspberries & vast quantities of wild apples, great numbs. of Deer are seen feeding on the young willows & earbage in the Banks and on the Sand bars in the river. our party on Shores did not join us this evening we Camped on an Island Situated on the S. Side, opposit some hills higher than Common, Say 160 or 180 feet above the Bottom. The river is Still falling last night it fell 8 Inches
June 26th Tuesday 1804 we Set out early, the river falling a little, the wind from the S. W. Passed the mouth of a Small river on the L. Side above the upper point of a Small Island, Called Blue water river, this river heads in Praries back with the Mine River about 30 yds. wide Lattitude of a pt. 4 ms. above this river is 38° 32' 15" North, the high lands which is on the Northe Side does not exceed 80 feet high, at this Place the river appears to be Confd. in a verry narrow Channel, and the Current Still more So by Couenter Current or Whirl on one Side & high bank on the other, passed a Small Isd. in the bend to the L. Side we Killed a large rattle Snake, Sunning himself in the bank passed a bad Sand bar, where our tow rope broke twice, & with great exertions we rowed round it and Came to & Camped in the Point above the Kansas River lobserved a great number of Parrot queets this evening, our Party Killed Several 7 Deer to day
June 27th, Wednesday a fair warm morning, the river rose a little last night. we determin to delay at this Place three or four Days to make observations & recruit the party Several men out Hunting, unloaded one Perogue, and turned her up to Dry with a view of repairing her after Completeing a Strong redoubt or brest work frome one river to the other, of logs & Bushes Six feet high, The Countrey about the mouth of this river is verry fine on each Side as well as the North of the Missouries the bottom, in the Point is low, & overflown for 250 yards. it rises a little above high water mark and Continus up that hight of good quallity back to the hills ____ A high Clift, on the upper Side of the Kansis 1/2 a mile up below the Kanses the hills is about 11/2 miles from the point on the North Side of the Missouries the Hill or high lands is Several miles back, we compareed the instrmts Took equal altitudes, and the Meridian altituade of the Suns L L to day Lattitude 38° 31' 13" Longitude ____ Measured The width of the Kansas River by an angle and made it 230 yds 1/4 wide, it is wider above the mouth the Missouries at this place is about 500 yards wide, The Course from the Point down the midle. of the Missourie is S. 32° E, & turns to the North. up is N 21°W. up the right side of the Kansas is S. 54° E, & the river turns to the left, Several Deer Killed to day.
28 June Thursday took equal altitudes &c. &c. &c. & varaitian of the Compass repaired the Perogue Cleaned out the Boat Suned our Powder wollen articles examined every thing 8 or 10 huntrs. out to day in different direction, in examineing our private Store of Provisions we found Several articles Spoiled from the wet or dampness they had received, a verry warm Day, the wind from the South, The river Missourie has raised yesterday last night & to day about 2 foot. this evening it is on a Stand, Capt. Lewis weighed the water of the Two rivers The Missouris 78° The Kansais 72° To Describe the most probable of the various accounts of this great river of the Kansas, would be too lengthy & uncertain to insert here, it heads with the river Del Norid in the black Mountain or ridge which Divides the waters of the Kansas Del Nord, & Callarado & oppsoitly from those of the Missoureis (and not well assertaind) This River recves its name from a nation which dwells at this time on its banks & 2 villages one about 20 Leagues & the other 40 Leagues up, those Indians are not verry noumerous at this time, reduced by war with their neighbours, &c. they formerly liveid on the South banks of the Missouries 24 Leagues above this river in a open & butifull plain and were verry noumerous at the time the french first Settled the Illinois, I am told they are a fierce & warlike people, being badly Supplied with fire arms, become easily conquered by the Aiauway & Saukees who are better furnished with those materials of war, This nation is now out in the plains hunting the Buffalow our hunters Killed Several Deer and Saw Buffalow, men impd Dressing Skins & makeing themselves Comfortable, the high lands Coms to the river Kanses on the upper Side at about a mile, full in view, and a butifull place for a fort, good landing place, the waters of the Kansas is verry disigreeably tasted to me.
29th of June 1804, Set out from the Kansas river 1/2 past 4 oClock, proceeded on passed a Small run on the L. S. at 1/2 Mile a (1) Island on the S. S. at 11/2 me. Hills above the upr. pt of Isd. L. S. a large Sand bar in the middle. Passed a verry bad place of water, the Sturn of the Boat Struck a moveing Sand & turned within 6 Inches of a large Sawyer, if the Boat had Struck the Sawyer, her Bow must have been Knocked off & in Course She must hav Sunk in the Deep water below Came to & camped on the S. S. late in the eveninge.
29th June Friday obsvd. the distance of (D & )),took Equal & maridinal altd. and after makeing Some arrangements, and inflicting a little punishment to two men we Set out at 1/2 past 4 oClock and proceeded on (i ) passed a large Island on the S. Side, opposit a large Sand bar, the Boat turned and was within Six Inches of Strikeing the rapidity with which the Boat turned was so great that if her bow had Struck the Snag, She must have either turned over or the bow nocked off S W wind
Camp mouth of the Kanseis June 29th 1804. Ordered a Court martial will Set this day at 11 oClock, to Consist of five members, for the trial of John Collins and Hugh Hall, Confined on Charges exhibited against them by Sergeant Floyd, agreeable to the articles of War.
Sergt Nat. Pryor presd.
mbs: 2 John Colter 3 John Newmon 4 Pat. Gass 1 J. B. Thompson
John Potts to act as judge advocate.
The Court Convened agreeable to order and proceeded to the trial of the Prisoners Viz John Collins Charged "with getting drunk on his post this morning out of whiskey put under his Charge as a Sentinal and for Suffering Hugh Hall to draw whiskey out of the Said Barrel intended for the party"
To this Charge the prisoner plead not guilty.
The Court after mature deliveration on the evidence abduced &c. are of oppinion that the prisoner is Guilty of the Charge exibited against him, and do therefore Sentence him to recive one hundred Lashes on his bear Back.
Hugh Hall was brought with "takeing whiskey out of a Keg this morning which whiskey was Stored on the Bank (and under the Charge of the guard) Contrary to all order, rule, or regulation"
To this Charge the prisoner "Pleades Guilty."
The Court find the prisoner guilty and Sentence him to receive fifty Lashes on his bear Back.
The Commanding Officers approve of the Sentence of the Court and orders that the Punishment take place at half past three this evening, at which time the party will Parrade for inspection-
at the Mouth of the River Kansies June 26" 27" 28 & 29th- This river is 366 miles above the mouth of Missouri it is in Lattitude 38° 31' 13" North
it is 230 yds. wide at its mouth & wider above from the point up the Missourie for about 3 ms. N. 21° W, Down the Middle of the Missourie is S. 32° E, up the upper bank of the Kansais, is S. 54° E the river turns to the East above a pt. of high land, well Situated for a fort & in view of the Missouris one mile up & on the upper Side, the width of the Missouris at this place is about 500 yds.
Missourie Water weighs 78. The Kanseis weghs 72 river Miss raised in the time at the Kanseis 2 foot and begun to fall.
The wood land on each side of the Mouth of this river is extensive and of a good quallity as far as our hunters was back, but badly watered with Springs, only two being Seen by them
Some punishment of two men Hall & Collins for takeing whiskey out of the Barrel last night agreeable to the Sentences of a Court Mtl of the party who we have always found verry ready to punish Such Crimes
Many Deer Killed to day
Allarm post or order of Battle arms to be Situated & the Duty &c. Messes of men under a Serjiant who is to detail for every day one man of his Squad to Cook &c. who Shall have the management of the provisions dureing that day or issue, each Days rations must be divided &c. &c Order of encampment, Tents, fires & Duty
30th June, Set out verry early this Morng Saw a verry large wolf on the Sand bar this morning walking near a gange of Turkeys (1) at 10 miles above the Kansis passed the mouth of a Small River Call the (Petite Plate) or the little Shole river, this river is about 70 yds. Wide and has Several rapids & falls, well Calculatd for mills, the land on this river is Said to be Roaling, Killed 2 Deer Bucks Swinging the river the wind from the S. W. here we opened the Bag of Bread given us by which we found verry good, our Bacon which was given us by we examined and found Sound and good Some of that purchased in the Illinois Spoiled, a relish of this old bacon this morning was verry agreeable, Deer to be Seen in every direction and their tracks ar as plenty as Hogs about a farm, our hunts. Killed 9 Deer to day the land below the last river is good, that above, between the two rivers which is near together is Slaik'y and bad on the N. Side, the other Side is good land, Landed on the L. S. below an Isd called Dimond Island
30th June Satturday 1804 Set out verry early this morning, a verry large wolf Came to the bank and looked at us this morning, passd the (1) mouth of a Small river 10 ms. above the Kanseis Called by the french Petite River Platte (or Shoal river) from the number of falls in it, this river is about 60 yards wide at its mouth and runs Parrilel with the Missouries for ten or twelve miles, I am told that the lands on this Small river is good, and on its Several falls well Calculated for mills, the wind from S. W. came to at 12 oClock & rested three hours, the... being hot the men becom verry feeble, Farnsts. Thermometer at 3 oClock Stood at 96° above 0, emence numbs. of Deer on the banks, Skipping in every derection, the party Killed nine Bucks on the river & Bank to day, The Countrey on the S. S. between the Shoal River & Missouris is indifferent Subject to overflow, that below and on the L. S. is high & appers well timbered, Camped on the L. S. opsd. the Lower point of a Isd. Called diamond Island, Broke our mast
July 1st 1804, last night one of the Sentinals Chang'd either a man or Beast, which run off, all prepared for action, Set out early passed the Dimond Isd. pass a Small Creek on the L. S. as this Creek is without name we Call it Biscuit Creek Brackfast on the upper point of a Sand beech, The river still falling a little a verry warm Day. I took Some medison last night which has worked me very much party all in helth except Boils-
passed a Sand bar in the river above the Isd. Covered for a me. with Drift Wood, Came to Capt Lewis took Medn. altitude & we delayed three hours, the day being excessively hot, Turkeys are plenty on the Shore, G. Drewyer inform that he Saw PueCanns Trees on S. S. yesterday great quantities of raspburies an Grapes, (2) pass a Creek on the L. S. called remore (Tree Frog) Creek, an Isd above in the Mid. and 2 Willow Isds on the S. S. all of the Same name; The two Willow Isds. has been made within 3 years & the Main Chant. runs now on the L S. of the large Island where there was no runing water at low water from this Island the range of Hills up the river to the N, W, pass a run on the L. S. a Butifull extensive Prarie, Two Islands just above Called (Isles des Parques) or Field Islands, those Islands are, one of our French hands tels me that the French intended to Settle here once & brought their Cows and put them on those Islands, Mr Mackey Says the first village of the Kanseis was a little above this Island & made use of as fields, no trace of anything of that Kind remains to be Seen on the Isds. fine Land on the L. Side, Hills near the river all day, Camped on the lower pot. of 1st Isd.-
July 1st, Sunday 1804 a Small allarm last night all prepared for action, Set out early this morning passed on the North Side of Dimond Island, a Small Creek mouths opposit I call Biscuit Creek,—a large Sand bar in the middle of the river 11/2 ms. above the Isd. Covered with Drift wood. river fall a little. The wind from S. W. Came to above this Drift and delayed three hours to refresh the men who were verry much over powered with the heat, Great quantity of Grapes & raspberries, (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. below one large and two small Islands. This Creek and Isds. are Called Remore (or Tree Frog) a large Pond on the S. S., the main Current of Water run'g on the L. S. of the Island, I am told that Three years ago the main Current run on the S. S. of the Island and no appearance of the two Smaller Islands, Camped on the lower point of one of the two large & 2 Small Isds. Called Isles des Parques or field Islds a high butifull Prarie on the L. S. one of the french hands Says "that the french Kept their Cattle & horses on those Islands at the time they had in this quarter a fort & trading establishment."
paecaun Trees Seen on the S. S. Deer and turkeys in great quantities on the bank
July the 2nd 1804 Set out verry early this morning passd on the Left of the Isles des parques High butifull Situation—on the L S. the land indifferent lands a Creek coms in on the S. S. Called parques, all at once the river became Crowded with drift that it was dangerous to cross this I Suppose was from the caveing in of the banks at the head of Some Island above, (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turquie or Turkey Creek passed a verry bad Sand bar on the L. S. the 20 Oars & Poals could with much dificuelty Stem the Current, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Inds. Wau-car-ba war-con-da or the Bear Medison Island, at 12 oClock came to on the Island and put in a mast, detained four hours, exceedingly hot, wind in forepart of the day from the S. E, George Drewyer informs that the Lands he pass through yesterday & to day on the S. S. was generally Verry fine he Saw two Springs of fresh water near the Island, Deer Sign has become So Common it is hardly necessary to mention them, we Camped after dark on the S. S. opposit the 1st old Village of the Kanzas which was Situated in a Valley between two points of high land, on the river back of their village commenced an extensive Prarie a large Island in front which appears to have made on that Side and thrown the Current of the river against the place the Village formerly Stood, and washes away the bank in that part. The french formerly had a Fort at this place, to protect the trade of this nation, the Situation appears to be a verry elligable one for a Town, the valley rich & extensive, with a Small Brook Meanding through it and one part of the bank affording yet a good Landing for Boats The High Lands above the Fere river on each Side of the Missouries appear to approach each other much nearer than below that plaice, being from 3 to 6 miles between them, to the Kansas, above that place from 3 to 5 Ms. apart and higher Some places being 160 or 180 feet the river not So wide We made a Mast of Cotton wood, to day in the Course of the evening & night it turned of a butifull red Colour
July 2nd, 1804 Set out early and proceeed on the left of the islands, two of which are large a high bottom Situated on the L. S. passed the mouth of a Creek on the S. S. Called Turquie Creike, at this place I observed that the river was Crouded with Drift wood, and dangerous to pass as this dead timber Continued only about half an our, I concluded that Some Island of Drift had given way (3) passed a Creek on the L. S. called Turky Creek, a bad Sand bar on the L. S. we could with dificuelty Stem the Current with our 20 oars & and all the poles we had, passed a large Island on the S. S. Called by the Indians Wau-car-ba war-cand-da or the Bear Medesin Island, at 12 oClock landed on the Island & put up a mast which detained us four hours—a verry hot day winds from the S. E.—George Drewyer inform's that the Lands he passed through yesterday and to day on the S. S. was verry fine, few Springs, we Camped after dark on the S. S. above the Island & opposit the 1st old village of the Kanzes which was Situated in a valley, between two points of high Land, and imediatly on the river bank, back of the village and on a riseing ground at about one mile The French had a garrison for Some time and made use of water out of a Spring running into Turkey Creek. an extensive Prarie, as the Current of the river Sets against the banke and washes it away the landing place for Boats is indifferent—The high lands above the Fire river, approaches nearer each than below, being from 3 to 6 miles distant and above Kansas from 3 to 5 miles distant and the Hills at Some places are from 160 to 180 feet above the bottom
July 3rd 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the South passed two Islands one a Small Willow Island on the L. S. (1) The other a large Island Called Cow 1. (Isle Vache), this Island is large, opposit to the head on the S. S. is a (2) large Pond, a Bad Sand bar on the S. S. we attemptd without Success, & was oblige to Cross back, I Saw a White horse on the L. S. in view of the upper point of the Island, (3) passed a large Sand bar at the S. point, we halted to day about a mile above the Island and found a horse, which had been lost by the Indians, verry fat and jentle, Sent him on to join the others which was ahead on the L S at this place, the french had a tradeing house, for to trade with the Kanzes on a high bottom on the L. S. near the hills which is Prarie proceeded on round a large Sand bar on the L. S. & Camped (opposit a large Sand bar in the middle of the river). on the L. S. a Butifull Small Stream passes back of the trading house, before mentioned
July 3rd, Tusday 1804 Set out verry early this morning and proceeded on under a gentle Breeze from the S. passed two Islands (1) one a Small willow Island on the L. S. the other large Called by the french Isle de Vache or Cow Island, opposit the head on the S. S. is a large Pond Containg Beever, & fowl, a bad Sandbar on the S. S. above the Island, on the L. S. we halted at an old Tradeing house, here we found a verry fat horse, which appears to have been lost a long time a butifull Small run passes back of the Tradeing house near the high land, we came to at a round bend on the L. S. and Camped
July 4th Wednesday 1804, Set out early passed the mouth of a Beyeue leading from a Lake on the S. S. this Lake is large and was once the bend of the River, it reaches Parrelel for Several miles, Came to on the L. S. to Dine & rest a Short time, a Snake bit Jo. Fields on the Side of his foot which Swelled much, apply Barks to the wound, pass a Creek on the L. S. about 15 yards wide cuming out of an extensive Prarie as this Creek has no name, and this day is the 4th of July, we name this Independance us. Creek above this Creek the wood land is about 200 yards, back of those wood is an extensive Prarie open and high, which may be Seen six or seven below—Saw great Nos. of Goslins to day nearly Grown, the last mentioned prarie I call Jo Fields Snake Prarie, Capt Lewis walked on Shore & Saw a large moun & 3 roads leading We Camped in the plain one of the most butifull Plains, I ever Saw, open & butifully diversified with hills & vallies all presenting themselves to the river covered with grass and a few scattering trees a handsom Creek meandering thro at this place the Kansaw Inds. formerly lived and had a verry large Town passed a Creek (4) I observed Spring braking out of the bank, a good Situation for a fort on a hill at the upper part
The Plains of this countrey are covered with a Leek Green Grass, well calculated for the sweetest and most norushing hay-interspersed with Cops of trees, Spreding ther lofty branchs over Pools Springs or Brooks of fine water. Groops of Shrubs covered with the most delicious froot is to be seen in every direction, and nature appears to have exerted herself to butify the Senery by the variety of flours Delicately and highly flavered raised above the Grass, which Strikes & profumes the Sensation, and amuses the mind throws it into Conjecterng the cause of So magnificent a Senerey in a Country thus Situated far removed from the Sivilised world to be enjoyed by nothing but the Buffalo Elk Deer & Bear in which it abounds & Savage Indians
The names of the french Ingishees, or Hirelens-
in Perogue
1 Battist de Shone Patrn
2 Joseph Le bartee
3 Lasoness
4 Paul Preemau
5 Chalo
6 E. Cann
7 Roie
8 Charlo Cougee
in the large Boat
*J. Le bartee
Rivee
bow men
Pieter Crousatt half Indian
William La Beice Mallat
3 Sergts. & 23 men for the Boat
George Drewyer. Hunter & 4 Horses
1 Corpl & 4 Privates in a Perogue to be Sent back from Plate
river
Mr. Dueron inteptr for the Sues Capt. Lewis my Self & York
in all 46 men July 4th 4 horses & a Dog
July 4th Wednesday ussered in the day by a discharge of one shot from our Bow piece, proceeded on, passed the mouth of a (1) Bayeau lading from a large Lake on the S. S. which has the apperance of being once the bed of the river & reaches parrelel for Several Miles Came to on the L. S. to refresh ourselves &. Jos. Fields got bit by a Snake, which was quickly doctered with Bark by Cap Lewis. (2) Passed a Creek 12 yds. wide on L. S. comeing out of an extensive Prarie reching within 200 yards of the river, as, this Creek has no name, and this being the we Dine (on corn) the 4th of July the day of the independance of the U. S. call it 4th of July 1804 Creek, Capt. Lewis walked on Shore above this Creek and discovered a high moun from the top of which he had an extensive view, 3 paths Concentering at the moun Saw great numbers of Goslings to day which Were nearly grown, the before mentioned Lake is clear and Contain great quantities of fish an Gees & Goslings, The great quantity of those fowl in this Lake induce me to Call it the Gosling Lake, a Small Creek & Several Springs run in to the Lake on the East Side from the hills the land on that Side verry good—(3) We came to and camped in the lower edge of a Plain where 2d old Kanzas village formerly Stood, above the mouth of a Creek 20 yds wide this Creek we call Creek Independence as we approached this place the Praree had a most butifull appearance Hills & Valies interspsd with Coops of Timber gave a pleasing deversity to the Senery. the right fork of Creek Independence Meandering thro the middle of the Plain a point of high Land near the river givs an allivated Situation. at this place the Kanzas Indians formerley lived. this Town appears to have covd. a large Space, the nation must have been noumerous at the time they lived here, the Cause of their moveing to the Kanzas River, I have never heard, nor Can I learn; war with their neghbors must have reduced this nation and Compelled them to retire to a Situation in the plains better Calculated for their defence and one where they may make use of their horses with good effect, in persueing their enemey, we Closed the by a Discharge from our bow piece, an extra Gill of whiskey.
July the 5th 1804 Set out verry early this morning, Swam the horse across the river, proceeded on for two miles under the bank where the old Kansas town formerly stood The Cause of those people moveing from this place I cannot learn, but naterally conclude that War has reduced their nation & compelled them to retire further into the Plains with a view of defending themselves & opposeing their enemey (more effectuall) on hors back (I neglected to mention yesterday that the Lake on the S. S. was large Say 3/4 me. wide & 7 or 8 long one creek & Several brooks running into it from the hills, it contains Great quantities of Sun fish & Gosling's from which we gave it the name,) passed Some verry bad Sand bars Situated parrelel to each other, (1) the Boat turned three times once on the ____ of a Drift wood. She recved no proceiviable damage, we came to for Dinner at a Beever house, Cap Lewis's Dog Seamon went in & drove them out. the high Lands on the L. S. is open, a few trees Scattering (2) passed a Small Creek on the L. S. in the 1s bend to the left I call yellow oaker creek from a bank of that Mineral just above. we camped on the L. S. under a high bank Latd. 39° 25' 41" North
on the banks of this river I observe great quants of Grapes, berries & roses Deer is not So plenty in this three days past as they were below that. Elks are plenty about those Praries. Some Buffalow Sign.
July 5th Thursday 1804 Set out verry early, proceeded on near the bank where the old village Stood for two miles, (Swam the hors found a few days ago) passed Some bad Sand bars, The Origan of this old village is uncertain M. de Bourgmont a French officer who Comdd. a fort near the Town of the Missouris in about the year 1724 and in July of the Same year he visited this Village at that time the nation was noumerous & well desposed towards the french Mr. Du Pratz must have been badly informed as to the Cane opposd this place we have not Seen one Stalk of reed or cane on the Missouries, he States that the "Indians that accompanied M De Bourgmont Crossed to the Canzes Village on floats of Cane"
Those people must have been verry noumerous at that time as Mr. De B. was accompanied by 300 Warriers, 500 young people & 300 Dogs of burthen out of this Village
The Cause of Those Indians moveing over to the Kanzis river I have never lernt—we passed Some bad Sand bars, Situated parrelel to each other (1) The Boat turned twice on the quick Sand & once on a raft of Drift, no procievable damage Prarie Contine on the high land on the L. S. passd a Small Creek (2) on L. S. in the first bend to the L S. I call Yellow-Oaker Creek from a quantity of that Mineral in a bank a little above
The river Continue to fall a little—I observe great quantities of Summer & fall Grapes, Berries & Wild roases on the banks—Deer is not so plenty as usual, great Deel of Elk Sign. (Wind from S E)
6th July Friday. We Set out early this morning & Proceeded on (the river falls Slowly) wind S. W) passed a Sand bar in 1st bend to the right (1) passed a Small Island at the S. pt. a verry warm day (worthy of remark that the water of this river or Some other Cause, I think that the most Probable throws out a greater preposn. of Swet than I could Suppose Could pass thro the humane body Those men that do not work at all will wet a Shirt in a Few minits & those who work, the Swet will run off in Streams) opposit the 3rd point passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie (fro a man of that name being Killed in it) opposit this Prarie the river is Confined in a verry narrow Space Crowded on S. S. by Sands which were moveing and difficuelt to pass. the Hunts. Sent in 3 Deer Jurked on the 4th point of to day is a Small Island & a Sand bar 2 miles out in the river, this is Called the Grand Bend, or Grande de Tour, I walked on this Sand bar found it a light Sand intersperced with Small Pebbles of various Kinds, also pit Coal of an excellent quallity was lodged on the Sand, We camped on the L. S. at a small creek a whiper will perched on the boat for a Short time, I gave his name to the Creek
July 6th, Friday We Set out early this morning, wind from the S. W. passed a large Sand bar in the 1st. bend to the right. (1) passed a Small Island at the S. point opposit the 3rd point we passed a Prarie on the S. S. Called Reeveys Prarie at this place the river is Confined in a verry narrow Channel Crouded by a Sand bar from the L. Point This Sand bar from the L. Point, this Sand bar is verry bad, at the 4th Point from the S. S. is a verry extensive bar, at the Point of which is a Small willow Island this is Called the Grand Detour or Great bend
I walked on this Sand bar and found the Sand was light, with Collection of Small pebble, & some Pit Coal I observe that the men Swet more than is Common from Some Cause, I think the Missouries water is the principal Cause our hunters Sent in 3 Bucks today The river Still fall a little
7th of July Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some verry Swift water on the L. S. which Compelled us to Draw up by the Cord. a verry warm morning, passed a butifull Prarie on the right Side which extends back, those Praries has much the appearance from the river of farms, Divided by narrow Strips of woods those Strips of timber grows along the runs which rise on the hill & pass to the river a Cleft above, one man sick (Frasure) Struck with the Sun, Saw a large rat on the Side of the bank, Killed a wolf on the Bank passed (2) a verry narrow part of the river, all confined within 200 yards, a yellow bank above, passed a Small willow Island on the S. point, (in Low water those Small Willow Islands are joined to the Sand bars makeing out from the Points) a pond on the S. S near the prarie we passed yesterday in which G D. Saw Several young Swans we Came to and Camped on the L. S. and two men Sent out last evening with the horses did not join us this evening agreeable to orders—a hard wind with Some rain from the N, E at 7 oClock which lasted half an hour, with thunder & lightning. river fall a little
July the 7th Satturday 1804 Set out early passed Some Swift water, which obliged us to draw up by roapes, a Sand bare at the point opposit a butifull Prarie on the S. Side Calld. (1) St. Michul, those Praries on the river has verry much the appearence of farms from the river Divided by narrow Strips of wood land, which wood land is Situatd. on the runs leading to the river. passed a Bluff of yellow Clay above the Prarie. Saw a large rat on the bank. Killed a Wolf. at 4 oClock pass a Verry narrow part of the river water Confd. in a bead not more than 200 yards wide at this place the Current runs against the L. Side. no Sand to Confine the Current on the S. S. passed a Small sand Island above the Small Islds. Situated at the points, in low water form a part of the Sand bars makeing out from those points
Incamped on the S. S. at 7 oClock a Violent Ghust of wind from the N. E. with Some rain, which lasted half an hour (G D. informs me that he Saw in a Pond on the S. S. which we passed yesterday; a number of young Swans-,) one man verry Sick, Struck with the Sun, Capt. Lewis bled him & gave Niter which has revived him much
8th of July Sunday Set out early this morning, the Sick man much better, Serjt. Oddeway was waiting at a Creek on the S. S. below an Island, passed (1) two Island on the S. S. and came to at the upper point, G Drewyer went out R. Fields & Guterich, five men Sick to day with a violent Head ake &c. and Several with Boils, we appoint a Cook to each mess to take Charge of the Provisions. in Serjt. Pryor's = Collens in Sjt. Ordway's Werner in Sergt. Floyd's Thompson, The french men Killed a young Deer on the Bank, (2) passed up a narrow Channel of about 80 or 100 yds wide about 5 miles to the mouth of Nadawa River which corns in to this channel from the N W. and is abt. 70 yards wide at its mouth ____ feet Deep and has a jentle Current, Perogues can navagate this river near its head, which is between the Missourie & the Grand River, passed up the gut 3/4 of a mile to the river at the head of the Island & camped opposit the head of this Island is another nearest the Middle R this Island Nadawa is the largest I have Seen, formed by a Channel washing into the Nadawa river.—"8 or 10000 acrs"
July the 8th Sunday 1804 Set out early passed a Small Creek on the S. S. and two (1) Small Islands on the S S. five men Sick to day with a violent head ake &c. we made Some arrangements as to provisions & Messes, came to for Dinner at the lower point of a very large Island Situated near the S. S. after a delay of two hours we passed a narrow channel of 45 to 80 yds wide five miles to the mouth of (3) Nkdawa River, This river Coms in from the North and is navagable for Perogues Some distance. it is about 70 yards wide a little above the mouth, at the mouth not So wide, the mud of the Gut running out of the Missourie is thrown and Settles in the mouth half a mile higher up this Channel or gut is the upper point of the Said Island, This Island is Called Nadawa, & is the largest I have Seen in the river, containing 7 or 8000 acres of Land Seldom overflowed we Camped at the head of this Island on the S. S. opposit the head or our Camp is a Small Island near the middle of the river, river Still falling. our flank party did not join us this evening
Detachment Orders Nadawa Island July 8th 1804.- In order to insure a prudent and regular use of all provisions issued to the crew of the Batteaux in future, as also to provide for the equal distribution of the same among the individuals of the several messes, The Commanding Officers Do appoint the following persons to recieve, cook, and take charges of the provisions which may from time to time be issued to their respective messes, (viz) John B. Thompson to Sergt. Floyd's mess,
William Warner to Sergt. Ordway's mess, and John Collins to Sergt. Pryor's Mess.—These Superintendants of Provision, are held immediately respon sible to the commanding Officers for a judicious consumption of the provi sion which they recieve; they are to cook the same for their several messes in due time, and in such manner as is most wholesome and best calculated to afford the greatest proportion of nutriment; in their mode of cooking they are to exercise their own judgment; they shall allso point out what part, and what proportion of the mess provisions are to be consumed at each stated meal (i. e.) morning, noon and night; nor is any man at any time to take or consume any part of the mess provisions without the privity, knowledge and consent of the Superintendant. The superintendant is also held responsible for all the cooking eutensels of his mess. in considera tion of the duties imposed by this order on Thompson, Warner, and Collins, they will in future be exempt from guard duty, tho they will still be held on the royster for that duty, and their regular tour-shall be per formed by some one of their rispective messes; they are exempted also from pitching the tents of the mess, collecting firewood, and forks poles &c. for cooking and drying such fresh meat as may be furnished them; those duties are to be also performed by the other members of the mess. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
July the 9th Monday 1804 Sent one man back to the mouth of the River to mark a tree, to let the party on Shore See that the Boat had passed the river, Set out early passed (1) the head of the Island Situated in the middle of the river a Sand bar at the head, (2) passed the mouth of a Creek or Bayou on the S. S. leading from a large Pond of about three miles in length, at 8 oClock it commenced raining, the wind changed from N E. to S. W. (3) at 6 miles passed the mouth of a Small Creek on the L. S. called Monters Creek, the river at this place is wide with a Sand bar in the Middle, passed a place on the L. S. about 2 miles above the Creek, where Several french men camped two years to hunt—(4) passed a Island on the S S. of the river in a bend, opsd. a high Land on the L. S. wind Shifted to the N. W. in the evining, opsd. this Island, and on the L. S. Loup or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards Wide, but little water running at the mouth, this river heads with the waters of the Kanzas, and has a perogue navigation Some distance, it abounds with Beaver, Camped opposit the head of the Island on the L. S. Saw a fire on the S. S. Supposedly the four flankers, to be theire, Sent a perogue for them, the Patroon & Bowman of the Perogue French, they returned & informed, that when they approached the fire, it was put out, which caused them to return, this report causd. us to look out Supposeing a pty. of Soux going to war, firierd the bow piec to allarm & put on their guard the men on Shore everey thing in readiness for Defence.
July 9th Monday 1804 one man Sent back to the river we passed last night to Blase a tree with a view to notify the party on Shore of our passing Set out and passed the head of the (1) Island which was Situated opposit to our Camp last night a Sand bar at the head (2) opsd. this Island a Creek or Bayaue Corns in from a large Pond on the Starboard Side, as our flanking party Saw great numbers of Pike in this Pond, I have laid it down with that name anex'd,v at 8 oClock the wind Shifted from the N, E to S W and it commenced raining. (3) at Six miles passed the mouth of Creek on the L. S. Called Monter's Creek, about two mile above is some Cabins where our Bowman & Several frenchmen Campd. two years (4) passed an Island on the S. S. in a Bend of the river opposit Some Clifts on the L. S. the wind Shifted to the N W opposit this Island and on the L. Side (Loup) or Wolf River Coms in, this river is about 60 yards wide and heads with the waters of the Kansis, and is navagable for Perogues "Some destance up" Camped at a point on the L. S. opposit the head of the Island, our party was incamped on the Opposit Side, their not answering our Signals Caused us to Suspect the persons Camped opposit to us was a war party of Soux, we fired the Bow piece to alarm the party on Shore, ailed prepared to oppose if attacted
July 10th Tuesday Set out this morning with a view to Land near the fire Seen last night, & recornetre, but Soon discovered that our men were at the fire, they were a Sleep early last evening, and from the Course of the Wind which blew hard, their yells were not heard by party in the perogue, a mistake altogether-. proceeded on, passed Prarie on the upper Side of Woolf River, at 4 miles passed (1) a Small Creek L. S. Called R. Pape this Creek is about 15 yds. Wide-and called after a Spanierd who killed himself at the mouth. (2) Dined on an Island Called de Selamen and delayed 3 hours, and proceeded on, opposit this Isld. on the L. S. is a (3) butifull Bottom Prarie whuch will Contain about 2000 acres of Land covered with wild rye & wild Potatoes, gread numbers of Goslings on the Banks & in the Ponds near the river, Capt Lewis Killed two this evening, we came to & Camped for the night. at a point on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift.—our men all getting well but much fatigued, the river is on a Stand nether rise nor fall, The bottom on the S. S. is verry extensive & thick. the Hills or high land is near the river on the L. S. and but thinly timbered, back of those hills is open plains.
July 10th Tuesday 1804 Set out early this morning and Crossd the river with a view to See who the party was that Camped on the other Side, we Soon discovered them to be our men,—proceeded on passed a Prarie on the L. S. at 4 miles passed a Creek L. S Called (1) Pappie after a man who Killed himself at its mouth, this Creek is 15 yds wide—(2) Dined on an Isld. Called de Salamin Delayed 3 hours on this Island to recruit the men opposit on the L. S. is a butifull bottom Plain of about 2000 acres (3) Covered with wild rye & Potatoes, intermix't with the grass, we camped on the S. S. opposit a yellow Clay Clift, Capt. Lewis Killed two young Gees or Goslings this evening—The men of the party getting better, but much fatigued—The river on a Stand—The bottom is verry extensive on the S. S. and thickly intersperced with Vines The High Land approaches near the river on the L. S. and well timbered next to the river, back of those hills the Plains Commence.
July 11th Wednesday, Set out early proceeded on passed a Willow (1) Island in a bend to the S. S. Sent out Dreweyer & Jo. Fields to hunt, Back of this Island a creek corns in on the S. S. called by the Indians Little Tarkio Creek I went on Shore above this Island on the S. S. found the bottom Subject for overflow wet and verry thickly interwoven with grape Vines—proceeded on at about 1/2 a miles from the river about 3 ms. and observed fresh Sign of a horse, I prosueed the track, with an expectation of finding a Camp of Indians on the river, when I got to the river, I saw a horse on the Beech, this horse as appears was left last winter by Some hunting party, probable the Othouez, I joined the Boat on the Sand Island Situated opposit the mouth of the Ne Ma har River, this river Coms in on the L. S. is about 80 yds Wide and navagable for Perogues Some Distance up the praries Commnce above the mouth and Continus on both Sides of this R Drewyer killed 6 Deer to day J. Field one Several hunters Sent out up the Nemahar R
July 11th, Wednesday 1804 Set out early passed a Willow Island (1) in a bend on the S. S. back of this Island a Creek Corns in Called by the Indians Tar-ki-o
I went on Shore above this Creek and walked up parrelel with the river at ab ut half a mile distant, the bottom I found low & Subject to overflow, Still further out, the under groth & vines wer So thick that I could not get thro with ease after walking about three or 4 miles I observed a fresh horse track where he had been feeding I turned my course to the river and prosud the track and found him on a Sand beach This horse Probably had been left by Some party of Otteaus hunters who wintered or hunted in this quarter last fall or Wintr. I joined the party on a large Sand Island imediately opposit the mouth of Ne Ma haw River, at which place they had Camped, this Island is Sand about half of it Covered with Small Willows of two different Kinds, one Narrow & the other a Broad Leaf. Several hunters Sent out to day on both Sides of the river, Seven Deer Killed to day. Drewyer Killd Six of them, made Some Luner observations this evening.
July 12th Thursday Som hunters out on the S. S. those on the L. S. did not return last night, our object in delaying here is to tak Some Observations and rest the men who are much fatigued made Sundery observations, after an early Brackfast I took five men and went up the River Ne Ma har about three miles, to an open leavel part of an emence prarie, at the Mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, I went on Shore, & passed thro the plain passed Several noles to the top of a high artificial Noal from the top of this noal I had an emence, extensive & pleaseing prospect, of the Countrey around, I could See the meandering of the Little River for at least 10 miles winding thro a meadow of 15 or 20000 acres of high bottom land covered with Grass about 41/2 feet high, the high lands which rose irregularly, & were toped with Mounds or antent Graves which is to me a Strong evidence of this Countrey haveing been thickly Settled-.This River is about 80 yards wide with a gentle Current and heads up near the Parnee Village on River Blue a branch of Kansas, a little timbered land near the mouth for 1 mile above, only a fiew Trees, and thickets of Plumbs Cheres &c are Seen on its banks the Creeks & little reveens makeing into the river have also Some timber—I got grapes on the banks nearly ripe, observed great quantities, of Grapes, plums Crab apls and a wild Cherry, Growing like a Comn. Wild Cherry only larger & grows on a Small bush, on the side of a clift Sand Stone 1/2 me. up & on Lower Side I marked my name & day of the month near an Indian Mark or Image of animals & a boat Tried Willard for Sleeping on his post, our hunters killed some Deer, Saw Elk & Buffalow.
July 12th, Thursday 1804 Concluded to Delay here to day with a view of takeing equal altitudes & makeing observations as well as refreshing our men who are much fatigued—after an early Brackfast I with five men in a Perogue assended the River Ne-Ma-haw about 2 miles to the mouth of a Small Creek on the Lower Side, here I got out of the Perogue, after going to Several Small Mounds in a leavel plain, I assended a hill on the Lower Side, on this hill Several Artificial Mounds were raised, from the top of the highest of those Mounds I had an extensive view of the Serounding Plains, which afforded one of the most pleasing prospects I ever beheld, under me a Butifull River of Clear water of about 80 yards wide Meandering thro a leavel and extensive Meadow, as far as I could See, the prospect Much enlivened by the fine Trees & Srubs which is bordering the bank of the river, and the Creeks & runs falling into it,-. The bottom land is covered with Grass of about 41/2 feet high, and appears as leavel as a Smoth Surfice, the 2 bottom is also covered with Grass and rich weeds & flours, interspersed with Copses of the Osage Plumb. on the riseing lands, Small groves of trees are Seen, with a numbers of Grapes and a Wild Cherry resembling the Common Wild Cherry, only larger and grows on a Small bush on the tops of those hills in every derection. I observed artifical mounds (or as I may more justly term Graves) which to me is a Strong indication of this Country being once Thickly Settled. (The Indians of the Missouris Still Keep up the Custom of Burrying their dead on high ground) after a ramble of about two miles about I returned to the perogue and decended down the River, gathd. Som grapes nearly ripe, on a Sandstone Bluff about 1/4 of a mile from its mouth on the Lower Side I observed Some Indian marks, went to the rock which jutted over the water and marked my name & the day of the month & year—This river heads near one of the Villages of the Pania on the River Blue, a branch of the Kansas River.—above this river about half a mile the Prarie Comes to the Missouri after my return to Camp on the Island Completed Som observations, Tred tried a man for sleeping on his Post & inspected the arms amunition &c. of the party found all complete, Took Some Luner Obsevations. three Deer killed to day. Latd. 39° 55' 56" N.
Camp New Island July 12th 1804. A Court matial consisting of the two commanding officers will convene this day at 1 OCk. P.M. for the trial of such prisoners as may be brought before them; one of the court will act as judge Advocate. M. Lewis Wm. Clark
The Commanding officers. Capt. M. Lewis & W. Clark constituted themselves a Court martial for the trial of Such prisoners as are Guilty of Capatol Crimes, and under the rules and articles of War punishable by Death,
Alexander Willard was brought foward Charged with "Lying down and Sleeping on his post whilst a Sentinal, on the night of the 11th. Instant" (by John Ordway Sergeant of the Guard)
To this Charge the prisoner pleads. Guilty of Lying Down, and not Guilty, of Going to Sleep. The Court after Duly Considering the evidence aduced, are of oppinion that the Prisoner Alexdn. Willard is guilty of every part of the Charge exhibited against him. it being a breach of the rules and articles of War (as well as tending to the probable distruction of the party) do Sentence him to receive One hundred lashes on his bear back, at four different times in equal propation.—and order that the punishment Commence this evening at Sunset, and Continue to be inflicted, (by the Guard) every evening untill Completed Wm Clark M. Lewis