Though local descriptions and
circumstances are seldom productive of any high degree of
interest, yet when they become connected with the adventurous,
active, and surprising career of any remarkable individual, even
the most trivial assumes a degree of importance, excites a lively
curiosity, and seldom tails to gratify the expectation it has
awakened. As the ruins of the castle at this place are in
an eminent degree picturesque and beautiful, and its being the
birthplace and residence of one of the Barons to whom we owe the
blessing of the Magna Charta, as well
as the scene of many of his surprising adventures; even the short
account I propose to offer, cannot be wholly devoid of
entertainment and instruction.
It is the
opinion of learned antiquarians, that this was the place so famed
by the name of Drev-Wen, or the White Town, by the illustrious
Welsh poet Lowarch Hen, who lived in the year 590. He says
that a prince of his country named Cynddylan was defeated and
fell here, in opposing the progress of the Irish who had invaded
the country. This ancient bard expresses the rage of the
battle in such an energetic manner, that if I attempt to describe
it, I shall fall far short of the original; therefore I content
myself with quoting his own words.
“Y [4] Drêv uen ym mron
y koed
Yseu yn y hervas eiryoed
A uyneb y guelht y guaed
Y Drêv uen yn yd hŷmyr
Y hervas y-Llâs vyver
Y guared ydan draed y gwŷr.”
In the time of Roderick the Great, king of all Wales, Ynyr ap
Cadfarch, a British nobleman, built the Castle of Whittington; to
which he was succeeded by his son Tudor Trevor, who altho’
possessed of many palaces, with rich and extensive domains, made
this his chief residence. By right of his father he
obtained the lordships of both Maelors, Whittington, Chirk,
Oswestry, Ewais, and Urchenfield; and by right of his mother
Rhiengar, the earldom of Hereford. His mother was
grand-daughter to Caradoc Freichfas, who fell in the field of
battle at Rhuddlan, A.D. 795, gloriously maintaining the cause of
the Britons against their Pagan invaders, the Saxons.
The descendants of Tudor continued possessed of the Castle for
several generations; and many families both in this neighbourhood
and North Wales, boast their origin from him.
At the Conquest, Whittington became the property of Pain
Peverel, who having no issue, on his decease it was seized by
Roger earl of Shrewsbury. This place was called in Doomsday
Book, Wititone; and consisted at that time of eight corn farms,
twelve ox-stalls, and a very extensive wood; the cows yielded
five shillings per annum, and all Welsh residents were obliged to
pay twenty shillings rent among them.
The
castle and lordship of Whittington next passed into the hands of
Hugh, and afterwards of his brother Robert, sons of the late earl
of Shrewsbury. Upon the defeat and forfeiture of Robert by
Henry I. it was restored to the Peverels in the person of Sir
William, a sister’s son of Pain Peverel.—This Sir
William is famed in history for his noble and valiant
enterprizes, in one of which it is stated that he was mortally
wounded, but was miraculously recovered by eating the shield of a
wild boar; and that to testify his gratitude to Heaven for his
preservation he built three churches.
He had two daughters, the youngest of which was named Mellet:
she with the spirit of an Amazon, resolved to wed no one but the
knight of most consummate valour. Her father published this
declaration, and promised the Castle of Whittington as her
dower. Several distinguished combatants assembled at
Peverel’s place in the Peak, Derbyshire, to contend for the
fair prize; and among whom were, a son of the king of Scotland,
Baron Burgoyne, and a noble Lorrainer, Guarine De Metz, (sheriff
of Shropshire, and chief counsellor to the earl of Shrewsbury;)
the latter of whom came with a shield of silver, and a proud peacock
upon his crest; and having overthrown his rivals, obtained the
beautiful Mellet.
As chivalry was the greatest accomplishment in these times,
the progeny of this famed couple could hardly avoid being
eminently distinguished by feats of arms, and the consequence
was, that their names occupied very great portions in romances
both at home and abroad.
I must not forget to state, that Guarine De Metz was a great
benefactor to the Monks: one remarkable instance of which is
this; after a conflict he had with the Welsh, led by their prince
Jorwerth, (in which action the latter was discomfited with all
his host) our hero founded the New Abbey, better known by the
name of Alberbury.
The posterity of this great man for nine generations assumed
the Christian name of Fulk; they continued possessed of the
castle from the end of the reign of Henry I. till the time of
Henry VIII. a period of near four hundred years. Their
common name was Fitz-Gwarine. Mr. Dovaston in his poem,
thus expresses himself on this subject:
“Sires were his from days of yore,
Who all the same distinction bore
Of title and of name;
A name that valour’s blazon’d blade
In feats of chivalry had made
The favourite of fame.”
Guarine De Metz died in the reign of Henry I. at Alberbury,
where he was interred; his wife and his son Fulk Fitz-Gwarine
being present on the occasion.
We have mentioned that Guarine De Metz first exerted his
valour in the cause of love, and that great commendation was
bestowed on him in consequence; this was exactly the case with
his son; he became desperately enamoured with Hawys, daughter of
Sir Joos, of Normandy, who had been appointed guardian of the
hero in question. Fitz-Gwarine observing Hawys to be
frequently in great sorrow, desired to know the cause of it, and
was informed that it proceeded from the dangerous situation of
her father, being at that time in the hands of Walter Lacy and
Sir Arnold de Lis, two of his inveterate enemies. Upon
hearing this, Fulk resolved to rescue him, and being supplicated
by her whom he adored, he set off immediately and arrived in time
just to save
the head of Joos from the fatal stroke that would instantly have
severed it from the body. The consequences were, Lacy and
Arnold were taken prisoners and confined in Ludlow castle; Joos
was snatched from the most perilous situation to a most happy
one; and to crown all, Fulk and Hawys were joined together, and
harmony again reigned in both families.
Fulk Fitz-Gwarine acted the hero in all his enterprizes with
such vigour, capacity, and celerity, that Henry I. knighted him,
made him steward of his house, and conferred on him the arduous
office of Lieutenant of the Marches; it was this that gave him
the name of Fulco or Fulk, signifying Lieutenant. In this
department his sword did not long remain undrawn; the Cambrian
Prince, Gryffydd ap Cynan, according to the general practice of
his countrymen, made a descent upon the lordship of Whittington,
and the surrounding country. These incursions were made so
frequently, and attended with such pernicious effects, that the
power of the Lords’ Marchers was often necessary to repel
their progress: indeed this was their sole office, and a very
useful one it was. In the present case, Fitz-Gwarine nobly
conducted himself, by wounding the Welsh king in the shoulder, and
completely routing his army. The Welsh however returned
soon after, drove Fulk from the Castle of Whittington, and gained
possession of the lordship; and it appears from a peace made by
Henry II. with Owen Gwynedd, the succeeding prince of Wales, that
it was kept by the latter, and bestowed on one of his favourites,
of the name of Roger; Fulk had the manor of Alston, in
Gloucestershire as a recompence.
It is recorded that Fulk Fitz-Gwarine, and John son to Henry
II. afterwards King John, were playing at chess together, when it
happened that they disagreed, and the prince gave Fulk a severe
blow upon the head with the board, which the latter returned in
such a violent manner, as almost to kill the young prince; a
circumstance, had it happened, not much to be regretted, were it
not in consideration of the glorious Magna Charta afterwards
obtained from him.
Mr. Dovaston in speaking of the noble actions of Fitz-Gwarine,
mentions Fulk and John’s quarrel in the following
manner:
“Enough to name our last affray,
The prince his temper lost at play,
The chess-board swung with coward sway
And hurl’d my head upon.
Ill could the wrong my bosom brook,
I sent him first a furious look,
Then firm with knuckles clench’d I strook
The pate of royal John.”
Fulk Fitz-Gwarine was succeeded by his eldest son, who bore
the same name. He raised the glory and dignity of his
family beyond any thing it had yet attained to, by numerous and
valourous actions, hereafter respectively to be recorded.
At the time, his father died, he was actively engaged in
Lombardy, where he conducted himself with such ability and
vigour, that king
Richard I. just before he went on the Crusades, made him Lord
Marcher of Wales, an office that required all the exertion and
capacity that could possibly exist in one man.
In the beginning of king John’s reign, Whittington was
in the hands of Maurice, brother to the person to whom Owen
Gwynedd presented it. Fulk Fitz-Gwarine made application to
John for this place, the ancient property and residence of his family; but
Maurice by means of his opulence and well-timed presents had
sufficient influence over the king, to retain the possessions he
so much desired: nevertheless, Fitz-Gwarine had a steady and
judicious friend in one John of Raumpayne, a minstrel, whom he
made his trusty spy over the conduct of Maurice at
Whittington. In those times when men considered the sword a
better instrument of revenge or defence, than the laws of their
country, and when one Baron insulted another, a petty war ensued
between them, often attended with much bloodshed, and generally
concluded with the demolition, or at least capture of the castle
of one party by the other. It was the failing of our hero
to have recourse to this method of gaining possession, to what he
thought himself fairly entitled; any other means would have been
considered in a very dishonourable light by those turbulent
barons and knights, who were his friends. I hope that this
action, or to express it in the language of that age, this
feat of arms of Fulk, will not dispossess the reader of
that kindness he has shown to Fitz-Gwarine and his historian, by
favouring him so far with an attentive and indulgent
perusal. All I can say of the battle made by Fulk upon
Maurice is, that the latter was slain, and the king of
Wales gave Fulk the Castle of Whittington, by which it appears,
that prince espoused his cause. But the English king made
Wrenoc (son to Maurice) Lord of Whittington, and sent privily to
the prince of Wales to behead Fulk, who avoided the policy of
king John by flying into France, with the assumed name of Sir
Amice, a wandering knight. He was so admired by the French
King for his honourable and chivalrous conduct, that he offered
him a barony of France, which Fulk politely declined.—By
some means it happened that Lewis, the French king, discovered
Fitz-Gwarine; upon which, the latter fled into Brittainy, where
his deeds of chivalry were so applauded, that a celebrated French
author collected and published them, forming a work universally
read by the chevaliers and ladies of that age. The title
given to the English translation is, “The Feates of Gwarine
and his Sunnes.”
Fitz-Gwarine formed a resolution of leaving France, and
returning to his own country: he accordingly embarked, and landed
at Dover, with a full determination to see king John. For
fear of discovery, Fulk exchanged clothes with a peasant: in this
habit, attended by his brethren and other followers who had gone
with him to France, and followed his fortunes home again, he
repaired to Windsor forest, where he found the king hunting, and
what was more advantageous to Fulk’s purpose, John happened
to be alone. He asked Fulk whether he saw or could find any
game? who answered, that if he would come with him, he should
have game in abundance. John was led to Fulk’s
brethren, and Fulk having the king in his power, menaced him
severely for the treatment he (Fitz-Gwarine) had received from
him; and obliged the captive king to grant to him the Castle of
Whittington, which that monarch readily agreed to, for willingly
would he sacrifice almost any thing to gain his liberty; several
instances of which may be seen in English history.
The poem of Fitz-Gwarine, thus describes the subject last
treated of.
“For woodman’s garb I chang’d my
cloak,
In Windsor’s wood of ancient oak
We found a safe retreat;
The king I knew there chas’d the deer,
And with my faithful comrades there
I conn’d a cunning feat.
“One day the King alone appear’d,
When scarce the distant horn was heard
Our hiding place hard by;
And as across my way he came,
Know’st thou (quoth he) of any game?
Aye—game enough, (quoth I).
“Ride to yon briery dingle rough
Trust me, I’ll rouse ye game enough,
My bugle then I sounded,
My comrades heard the blast I blew,
Obey’d the signal that they knew,
And soon the King surrounded.
“Cow’d was the King with speechless fear,
Yet stammer’d out, Who have we here?
I flung my bonnet from my brow,
Know’st thou (quoth I) Fitz-Gwarine now?
I took a sword and o’er him swung it,
Then at his feet contemptuous flung it,
And turning to my comrade class,
Open, (I cried,) and let him pass.
Now go, Sir King, in freedom go,
And copy courage from a foe.
I’ll grant (he cried,) a pardon free,
Fitz-Gwarine unto thine and thee,
And I’ll restore to thee anon
The franchise fair of Whittington.”
John,
however, disregarded his promise, for as soon as he got home, he
sent fifteen knights after Fulk, either to capture or kill
him. Fulk acted his part with such valour, that the knights
were entirely discomfited, and their leader taken prisoner.
Soon after this, John sent Randolph, earl of Chester, with a
numerous retinue to take Fulk, but the latter fled to sea, on
board a ship belonging to Madour of the Mount, a true friend of
Fitz-Gwarines’: while lying in channel, Fulk observed a
knight in disguise coming to kill him; but the courage of our
hero did not forsake him on this occasion, for in the laudable
act of self defence, he slew the concealed assassin, and sailed
to Orkney. Here he released a damsel from captivity; and by
some noble exploit, won his celebrated hauberk of hard steel,
which with other ancient pieces of armour belonging to his
family, hung till Cromwell’s time in the church of
Whittington.
The stay of Fitz-Gwarine at Orkney was short, for we soon
after find him driven by tempests to the coast of Barbary.
In contemplation upon this dreary part of the globe, he formed a
resolution of seeing Carthage, the city that produced such
invincible heroes, whose courage defended that small
republic for a considerable time, against the powerful arms of
the Roman empire. But when he saw this once opulent and
populous city crumbled nearly to dust, he felt strong emotions of
pity mixed with veneration. Here! he exclaimed, was born
and educated, Hanibal the greatest general in ancient history,
who made the Romans tremble at their own capital! In these
streets, what patriotism prevailed among all classes of
people! Here commerce flourished; and great improvement was
made in its concomitant navigation. Wrapt in enthusiasm,
Fitz-Gwarine set sail for England, full of hearty desires that
his own country might one day thrive by trade in as conspicuous a
manner as Carthage had done. Upon his arrival, he had the
good fortune to obtain a pardon for himself and followers,
together with the restoration of Whittington castle, and all its
appendages. I have mentioned that John gave this place to
Wrenoc, but he held it for the service of being interpreter
between the Welsh and English; and when the king gave Whittington
to Fulk, Wrenoc had certain estates in the neighbourhood, given
him in compensation.
The
splendour Fitz-Gwarine lived in, is described by Mr. Dovaston in
such a striking manner, that I cannot refrain from quoting the
words he uses to such advantage.
“Other guests than yon lone bird,
And other musick here was heard,
In times of better days;
Festive revelry went round,
The board with blushing goblets crown’d,
And costly carpets clad the ground,
Where now yon cattle graze.
“Days were those of splendor high,
Days of hospitality,
When to his rich domain
Welcom’d many a crested knight,
Welcom’d many a lady bright,
Fitz-Gwarine of Lorraine.”
The next laudable action of Fitz-Gwarine, of which we have any
authentic account is, his going on an expedition into Ireland, in
the service of the English king. He behaved with such
intrepidity and loyalty, that after his return to England, he
received the title of The Great: an
appellation more frequently conferred on the destroyers of the
human race, than on those who contribute to the real welfare
of mankind, by the discoveries in the arts and sciences. [19]
Upon the dissatisfaction and rebellion of the Barons against
king John, Fulk joined with them; for we find his name among the
number that were excommunicated by the Pope, for extorting from
John that firm basis of English liberty, called Magna Charta.
In the succeeding reign, viz. that of Henry III., Fitz-Gwarine
procured a grant of his estates, to him and his heirs for ever;
for which he gave the king two coursers, and two hundred and
sixty-two pounds, an enormous sum in that age, and which gives us
an idea of the wealth of Fitz-Gwarine. The same monarch
also granted him the liberty of a fair on St. Luke’s day,
and a market on Wednesday, at Whittington; but on account of its
proximity to Oswestry and Ellesmere, both market and fair are now
quite lost. There were, however, fairs on the last
Thursdays in April, July, and November, in the memory of several of
the present inhabitants; but in want of sufficient attendance,
they were discontinued. They consisted chiefly of horses,
oxen, sheep and swine, that were, in a great measure, furnished
from the extensive common of Babin’s wood: upon the
inclosure of which, great part of the land that before had reared
cattle, sheep, &c. was converted to arable purposes, and
consequently the fairs were but ill supplied with those useful
animals, which defect was the principal cause of the putting a
stop to the fairs.
Strange, lord of Knockin, and possessor of the castle there,
had several conflicts or wars with Fitz-Gwarine, during the
agitated reign of John. In some of these skirmishes they
threw down, or considerably damaged each others castle; for we
find grants given by Henry III. to each of these Barons to repair
and fortify them. Whittington castle was so completely
fortified by Fitz-Gwarine, that we never after hear of its being
taken from its possessors. Out of the refuse materials
Fitz-Gwarine built a chapel that soon became the parish church,
and of which, I shall say more hereafter.
In a tower in the gateway was till very lately a
figure on horseback, representing Fitz-Gwarine painted in a
course manner, under which were the following lines, alluding to
his fortifying the castle:
“This was Sir Foulke Fitz-Warine late a
great and valiant knight,
Who kept the Britons still in awe and oft times put to flight;
He of this castle owner was, and kept it by command,
Of Henry late surnam’d the Third, then king of all this
land.
His grandfather, a Lorrainer, by fame was much befriended,
Who Peverley’s daughter took to wife, from whom this Fulk
descended;
His ancient acts of chivalry in annals are recorded,
Our king of England afterwards him baron made and
lorded.”
Fulk Fitz-Gwarine had the misfortune to be stricken with
blindness in his old age. Upon his death, he was buried in
the porch of Whittington church; and his remains were found there
in an oak coffin three inches thick, by digging a grave in the
year, 1796.
He had a daughter named Eva, who was second wife to Llewelyn,
king of Wales; and it was through her that Fitz-Gwarine came to
know of John’s private message to Llewelyn,
which I omitted to mention in its right place.
I state from very good authority, that this Fulk, or to avoid
confusion Fulk the second, was married to Clarice of Abbourville,
but of what family she was, or when they were married, I have not
been able to discover. Fitz-Gwarine, it is stated, went
generally by the appellation of Proudhome, as a mark of respect
to his nobility.
He left behind him a son, who enjoyed his father’s
estates and titles, but for no considerable time. He
followed king Henry III. through all that prince’s adverse
fortune, and righting in his behalf at the battle of Lewes, had
the irreparable misfortune of being drowned in the act of
crossing a river; leaving behind him a young son, the fourth
Fitz-Gwarine.
Dugdale states, that it was Fitz-Gwarine the second who was
drowned at Lewes; but though, a most excellent historian, he is
certainly wrong in this particular, for the following reasons:
When Fitz-Gwarine the second was appointed Lieutenant of the
Marches in the first year of Richard I. he at least must have
been of age; and from that time to the battle of Lewes was
75 years, consequently he must have been near 100 years old; an
age, at which it is highly improbable he could have been found in
the field of battle. Besides, we are informed, that the
Fulk who fell at Lewes, left a son in his minority, which is very
unlikely to have been the case with Fulk the second at such an
advanced age. Another, though not so strong as the two
preceding proofs, is the certainty of Fitz-Gwarine the second
being buried at Whittington; a circumstance that could hardly
have taken place, if Dugdale’s statement had been
correct. Though this might have happened, yet the other two
are sufficient arguments to prove that the son is the person whom
that author has mistaken for the father.
Immediately after the battle, (the events of which must be
known to every person who has read the English history) the earl
of Leicester created Peter de Montford, one of his chief
accomplices, governor of Whittington castle. Leicester also
obliged the captive king to deliver Whittington with several
other bordering castles, into the hands of Llewelyn ap Gryffydd,
king of Wales, by a writ dated from Hereford, June 22,
1265. That cruel earl likewise, in Henry’s name, gave Llewelyn
the entire sovereignity of Wales, and homage of all the barons
under him. Henry, after he regained his liberty, confirmed
those grants, but for what reason I have not been able to make
apparent, unless money was his object, as it was done in
consideration of Llewelyn giving him 30,000 marks as a
recompense.
Fulk the fourth having arrived at years of maturity, made
proof of his age to Edward I. who invested him with all his
patrimonial estates except Whittington, which he also obtained
upon his accompanying the English monarch on his expedition
against the Welsh. He behaved with such intrepid bravery,
that Edward, in reward for his meritorious conduct, allowed him
the liberty of a Free Warren on his lands in this manor,
and likewise forgave him two hundred pounds that Fulk owed to the
exchequer.
This year the king used his influence in reconciling
Fitz-Gwarine and Richard, earl of Arundel, in consequence of a
quarrel prevailing at that time between these two powerful and
predominant barons; but the breach was amicably adjusted by the
interposition of Edward’s good offices.
Fitz-Gwarine died in the reign of Edward leaving a son,
at that time engaged in the war prosecuted by that king against
France: his lady Eleanor, had permission to use livery for this
manor, until her husband could return to do homage. He
performed very considerable services for the king in sundry
campaigns, particularly in Flanders and Scotland, where, by his
gallant conduct, he made himself as much renowned as any of his
predecessors.
Edmund earl of Kent, uncle to the king, being suspected of
circulating reports, that Edward II. was then alive, he accused
Fitz-Gwarine of promising him aid, in case Kent could bring about
a rebellion, for which our hero was deprived of the castle of
Whittington; but some of his friends, who had influence with
Edward obtained it back for him in the following year, the king
being perfectly convinced of his loyalty.
In this year, or the twenty-third of Edward III., Fitz-Gwarine
the fifth departed this life; and was succeeded by his son, Fulk
the sixth; who, four years before had the honour of signalizing
himself at the memorable battle of Cressy, the first great action
that convinced the French of that undaunted courage which
existed, and still continues to exist, amongst the inhabitants of
this fair isle. Fitz-Gwarine, likewise, accompanied the
Black Prince into Gascoigne, when that young prince carried his
successful arms into that quarter of France;
and was at the illustrious battle of Poictiers, where the
whole army gained universal applause:—headed by a general,
whose noble and generous conduct shone with meridian splendour,
not only in this, but in every other campaign he was engaged in;
and whose whole life was one continued scene of invincible
courage, adorned with all that clemency and nobleness of soul, so
much to be admired in a prince.
Fitz-Gwarine, for the important services he rendered to his
country, was, upon his return there, created Baron Marcher of Wales; this is the last
well-grounded anecdote that we have of him, except the date of
his death, which took place in the forty-seventh of Edward
III.
The next Fulk was only seven years old at the death of his
father. He became possessed of a greater extent of property
than any
of his ancestors, but did not long enjoy it: he was cut off at
the early age of twenty-five; and by will, ordered that his body
should be interred in the chancel of Whittington church.
The greatest part of his possessions lay in other counties, but
he considered Whittington the most eligible place for his
sepulture, as it had been the general residence of his family for
several generations. It appears that he also left a minor
son, for his will appoints J. Audley, guardian over the young
prince.
The only account we have of this Fulk, is the following humane
action: when Owen Glyndwr carried his arms into these borders, on
purpose to meet Percy, earl of Northumberland at Shrewsbury,
several in this manor joined with that potent rebel; but
Fitz-Gwarine, by solicitations to Henry IV. procured for them a
general pardon. His son and successor was the ninth and
last Fulk Fitz-Gwarine: he died in his minority, and the male
line of this noble and distinguished race, closes; though the
title of Fitz-Gwarine, or Fitz-Warine was assumed for a few
generations afterwards.
Elizabeth, only sister and heiress to Fulk the 9th, was
married to one Richard Haukford, who dying, left all his
possessions to his only daughter Thomasine, who married sir
William Bourchier, brother to Henry, first earl of Essex.
The title of lord Fitz-Warine was given to sir William in
consequence of his marriage. John, third in descent from
him, exchanged Whittington with Henry VIII. for other landed
property. This John was the first earl of Bath, and his
posterity preserved the title of Fitz-Warine till the race became
extinct, which took place at the death of Henry, fifth earl of
Bath.
And here it may not be improper to take a general view of this
illustrious and warlike race, that flourished through such a
number of reigns, and retained their estates, titles, honours,
acquisitions, and privileges, until nearly their final
termination of the race.—In whatever light war is
considered in the present day, no period of history ever
discountenanced it; to be skilled in arms has been always
considered the highest and most honourable acquisition, that an
individual could attain to, in all ages and amongst all nations,
though it must be confessed this is chiefly to be accounted for
from the slow progress of civilization, as the encouragement of war
must necessarily decrease in proportion to the extension of
humanity; and it must be allowed by all, that amidst the myriads
of beings who have distinguished themselves herein, the
Fitz-Gwarines deserve an eminent rank, not so much for their
petty and incessant skirmishes with the Welsh, as for the
readiness with which they fought for their king, in divers
engagements and campaigns, greatly to their honour and the glory
of the English arms.
But though war has been the prevailing accomplishment
throughout sacred and prophane history, yet with what ecstasy do
we contemplate that portion of time which providence has allotted
us: free from the intolerable recounters produced by the broils
and dissentions of those turbulent, inflexible, and ambitious
barons, who so disturbed England during the reigns of the Normans
and Plantagenets; and likewise delivered from the well known
calamities of intestine commotions, so productive of civil wars;
the evils of which can be better conceived than described.
On the subject of war I have said more than my limits will allow
to say of any thing else concerning this family; but, who can
help admiring that loftiness of sentiment and nobleness of soul,
which shone in so conspicuous a degree upon the whole race.
Their fidelity to the government, and their readiness to serve
it, are convincing proofs of the advantages England derived from
them, during the long course of time in which they lived;
flourishing with fewer restraints than are commonly attendant on
men in such elevated stations.
That religion was held in great veneration by this race, is
very conspicuous from the number of public and private edifices
built by them, and devoted to pious uses: almost all the churches
and abbies in this neighbourhood were founded by some of the
family, and though the latter are not now in existence, yet the
churches will preserve the memory of their establishers till time
shall be no more.
I have stated that this castle passed into the hands of Henry
VIII.; we hear nothing further concerning it till the following
reign, when the king presented the place in question to Henry
Grey, duke of Suffolk, who forfeited it in consequence of the
conviction of several crimes imputed to him. This took place in the
reign of Mary, and shortly after it was by that queen granted to
Fitz-Alan, last earl of Arundel: he mortgaged it to a number of
London citizens, who obtained the place in default of payment
from him. William Albany chief man among the number was, by
the joint consent and approbation of the rest, put in sole
possession of it. By the marriage of his great grand
daughter with Thomas Lloyd, of Aston, esq. Whittington passed
into the hands of the worthy family who enjoy it at the present
time.
Having given some account of the possessors of Whittington
castle, I think it my duty to attempt laying before the reader, a
short account of this structure, and proceed to shew, that it
must have underwent fortification soon after its original
establishment: placed on the border of Wales, it must have been
alternately in the hands of the Welsh and Saxons; for the latter
of whom it formed a key of great utility in their attacks open
the former, and consequently so useful an inlet, must have been
strongly defended. Indeed its founder could not have chosen
a place in which nature contributed more to its security; finding
the innumerable springs of water so advantageously situated for
his designs, he converted it to the best purpose, and
surrounded the castle with several moats and intrenchments, still
discernable. The annexed plan of the castle [32] gives the reader a better idea of the
exact situations of the trenches and other out-works, than can be
expressed by words.
The keep was the place of last resort in times of great
danger, and was in consequence defended with the utmost
precaution. In the present case, it was fortified with five
round towers, each forty feet in diameter, an hundred in height,
and the walls twelve in thickness. I have not been able to
discover what time the keep fell into a state of delapidation,
but undoubtedly for a great number of years, as an aged mulbery
is growing in it.
About the year 1760, the eastern tower fell into the moat
after a severe frost, and some years afterwards, one of the
northern towers and the western wall were taken down to repair
the roads leading from Whittington to Halston bridge. The
northern tower that now remains was undermined for the same
purpose. In 1809, a smaller tower, used many years as a
pidgeon house, was taken down to repair the exterior gateway,
which is still inhabited.
The keep is now used as a garden, at an even depth under which
is a pavement of free-stone; at the north corner is a well, which
was discovered and opened in 1809, when there was found the
handle of the bucket, a pair of large iron fetters for the legs,
a large jug, the remains of stags’ heads and swords; and
upon removing some rubbish about the same time, there appeared a
curious carved stone head, and likewise some highly gilt glass
bottles.
Within the trenches are some very fine tall wych elm and ash
trees, that add greatly to the beauty of the ruins. The
ancient and present state of the castle, is beautifully
contrasted by Mr. Dovaston, in the following manner:
“In ancient days of high renown
Not always did yon castle frown
With ivy-crested brow;
Nor were its’ walls with moss embrown’d,
Nor hung the lanky weeds around
That fringe its’ ruins now.
Other hangings deck’d the wall
Where now the nodding foxgloves tall
Their spotty hoods unfold;
Harebells there with bugloss vie,
And gilliflowers of yellow dye,
Seem now, to musing Fancy’s eye,
To mock the mimic tapestry
That flaunted there of old.”
It is situated amid fine and fertile meadows, through which a
rapid stream having commenced a subterraneous course about a mile
above, here emerging, playfully undulates, having its border
shaded with poplars, till it enters the castle moat, where
encompassing the walls, whose ruins are richly fringed with ivy,
and hung with elegant traces of wild flowers and woodbine, it
enters the Perry amid the meadows below, formerly the site of an
extensive lake. The ancient fosses and intrenchments may
yet very visibly be traced to a surprising distance beyond the
castle, westward, from where the lake terminated, in some fields
still called “The Runtings.”
The internal scenery, where the aged elms expand their immense
arms among the now gloomy ruins, formerly the place of hilarity
and carousing, is, perhaps, not surpassed by any on the
border.
A court
leet and court baron are annually holden by the Lord of the Manor
in a room in the castle, to which the inhabitants are summoned to
pay one penny each, and upon non-attendance are fined
sixpence. Chief-rents are paid to the Lord.
In the township of Daywell in the parish of Whittington,
Watt’s Dyke makes its appearance, extending from a place
called Gobowen, adjoining the parish of Selattyn, into that of
St. Martins. The extent between this Dyke and Offa’s
(which crosses the hills above Selattyn) is about four
miles. These Dykes point north and south, and the
intervening space is said to have been a common mart, where the
English and Welsh met to carry on a commercial intercourse, with
each other; but, if either party transgressed these bounds, they
were exposed to the severities of war. Upon Watt’s
Dyke, at a place called Brynycastle, near to Gobowen, is the site
of an old Watch-fort, and another a little further on
towards St. Martins.
