SUMMARY.
The Fourteenth Book contains an account of the Cyclades
islands and the region opposite to them, Pamphylia, Isauria,
Lycia, Pisidia, Cilicia as far as Seleucia of Syria, and that
part of Asia properly called Ionia.
1. There remain to be described Ionia, Caria, and the sea-coast beyond
the Taurus, which is occupied by Lycians, Pamphylians, and
Cilicians.19 We shall thus finish the description of the whole circuit
of the peninsula, the isthmus of which, we have said, consists of the
tract between the Euxine and the Sea of Issus.
2. The navigation around Ionia along the coast is about 3430 stadia. It
is a considerable distance, on account of the gulfs, and of the
peninsular form for the most part of the country, but the length in a
straight line is not great. The distance, for example, from Ephesus to
Smyrna is a journey in a straight line of 320 stadia; to Metropolis20
is 120 stadia, and the remainder to Smyrna; but this distance by sea is
little less than 2200 stadia. The extent of the Ionian coast is reckoned
from Poseidium,21 belonging to the Milesians, and the
boundaries of Caria, as far as Phocæa,22 and the river Hermus.23
3. According to Pherecydes, Miletus, Myus,24 Mycale, and Ephesus, on
this coast, were formerly occupied by Carians; the part of the coast
next in order, as far as Phocæa, and Chios, and Samos, of which Ancæus
was king, were occupied by Leleges, but both nations were expelled by
the Ionians, and took refuge in the remaining parts of Caria.
Pherecydes says that the leader of the Ionian, which was posterior to
the Æolian migration, was Androclus, a legitimate son of Codrus king of
the Athenians, and that he was the founder of Ephesus, hence it was that
it became the seat of the royal palace of the Ionian princes. Even at
present the descendants of that race are called kings, and receive
certain honours, as the chief seat at the public games, a purple robe as
a symbol of royal descent, a staff instead of a sceptre, and the
superintendence of the sacrifices in honour of the Eleusinian Ceres.
Neleus, of a Pylian family, founded Miletus. The Messenians and Pylians
pretend that there is some affinity between them; in reference to which
later poets say that even Nestor was a Messenian, and that many Pylians
accompanied Melanthus, the father of Codrus, to Athens, and that all
this people sent out the colony in common with the Ionians. There is
also to be seen on the promontory Poseidium an altar erected by Neleus.
Myus was founded by Cydrelus, a spurious son of Codrus; Lebedos25 by
Andropompus, who took possession of a place called Artis; Colophon by
Andræmon, a Pylian, as Mimnermus mentions in his poem of Nanno;26
Priene by Æpytus, son of Neleus; and afterwards by Philotas, who brought
a colony from Thebes; Teos by Athamas, its first founder, whence
Anacreon calls the city Athamantis, but at the time of the Ionian
migration of the colony it received settlers from Nauclus, a spurious
son of Codrus, and after this from Apœcus and Damasus, who were
Athenians, and from Geres, a Bœotian; Erythræ was founded by Cnopus, who
also was a spurious son of Codrus; Phocæa by Athenians, who accompanied
Philogenes; Clazomenæ by Paralus; Chios by Egertius, who brought with
him a mixed body of colonists; Samos by Tembrion, and afterwards by
Procles.
4. These are the twelve Ionian cities. At a subsequent period Smyrna
also was added to the Ionian association at the instance of the
Ephesians, for anciently they inhabited the same city, at which time
Ephesus was called Smyrna. Callinus somewhere gives it this name, and
calls the Ephesians Smyrnæans in the address to Jupiter:
“And pity the Smyrnæans;”
and in another passage,
“remember now, if ever, the beautiful thighs of the oxen
[which the Smyrnæans burnt in sacrifice].”
Smyrna was an Amazon, who got possession of Ephesus; from her the
inhabitants and the city had their name, in the same manner as some
Ephesians were called Sisyrbitæ from Sisyrba; and a certain spot in
Ephesus was called Smyrna, as Hipponax testifies:
“He lived in Smyrna, at the back of the city between Tracheia
and Lepre Acta.”
The mountain Prion was called Lepre Acta; it overhangs the present city,
and has on it a portion of the wall. Even now the farms at the back of
the Prion retain the name in the term Opistholepria. The country along
the foot of the mountain about Coressus was called Tracheia. The city
was anciently built about the Athenæum, which is now beyond the city, at
the (fountain) Hypelæus. Smyrna therefore was situated near the present
gymnasium, at the back of the present city, but between Tracheia and
Lepre Acta. The Smyrnæans, upon quitting the Ephesians, marched to the
place where Smyrna now stood, and which was in the possession of
Leleges. They expelled these people and founded the ancient Smyrna,
which is distant from the present city about 20 stadia. They were
themselves afterwards expelled by Æolians, and took refuge at Colophon;
they then returned with a body of men from the latter place, and
recovered their own city, Smyrna. Mimnermus relates this in his poem of
Nanno, and says of Smyrna, that it was always a subject of contention;
“after leaving Pylus, the lofty city of Neleus, we
came in our voyage to the long wished-for Asia, and settled at
Colophon, and hastening thence from the river Astëeis, by the
will of the gods we took Æolian Smyrna.”
So much then on this subject.
We must, however, again describe each place in particular, beginning
with the principal cities, from which the first settlements originated,
I mean Miletus and Ephesus, for these are superior to all others, and
the most celebrated.
5. Next after the Poseidium of the Milesians, at the distance of 1827
stadia from the sea-coast, is the oracle of Apollo Didymeus among the
Branchidæ. This, as well as the other temples, except that at Ephesus,
was burnt by the order of Xerxes.28 The Branchidæ delivered up the
treasures of the god to the Persian king, and accompanied him in his
flight, in order to avoid the punishment of sacrilege and treachery.
The Milesians afterwards built a temple, which exceeded in size all
others, but it remained without a roof on account of its magnitude. The
circuit of the sacred enclosure contained within it a village with a
magnificent grove, which also extended beyond it; other sacred
enclosures contain the oracle, and what belongs to the worship of the
god.
Here is laid the scene of the fable of Branchus, and Apollo’s love for
him. The temple is adorned with the most costly offerings, the
productions of ancient art.
Thence to the city the journey is not long either by land or sea.29
6. Ephorus relates that Miletus was first founded and fortified by the
Cretans on the spot above the sea-coast where at present the ancient
Miletus is situated, and that Sarpedon conducted thither settlers from
the Miletus in Crete,30 and gave it the same name; that Leleges were
the former occupiers of the country, and that afterwards Neleus built
the present city.
The present city has four harbours, one of which will admit a fleet of
ships.31 The citizens have achieved many great deeds, but the most
important is the number of colonies which they established. The whole
Euxine, for instance, and the Propontis, and many other places, are
peopled with their settlers.
Anaximenes of Lampsacus says, that the Milesians colonized both the
island Icarus and Lerus, and Limnæ on the Hellespont, in the
Chersonesus; in Asia, Abydus, Arisba, and Pæsus; on the island of the
Cyziceni, Artace and Cyzicus; in the interior of the Troad, Scepsis. We
have mentioned, in our particular description of places, other cities
which this writer has omitted.
Both the Milesians and Delians invoke Apollo Ulius, as dispensing health
and curing diseases; for οὔλειν32 is to be in health,
whence οὐλή,33 a wound healed, and the phrase in
Homer,34 Οὖλέ τε καὶ μέγα χαῖρε,
“health and good welcome;” for Apollo is a healer, and Artemis has her
name from making persons ἀρτεμέας, or sound. The sun,
also, and moon are associated with these deities, since they are the
causes of the good qualities of the air; pestilential diseases, also,
and sudden death are attributed to these deities.
7. Illustrious persons, natives of Miletus, were Thales, one of the
seven wise men, the first person who introduced among the Greeks
physiology and mathematics; his disciple Anaximander, and Anaximenes the
disciple of Anaximander. Besides these, Hecatæus the historian;35 and
of our time, Æschines the orator, who was banished for having spoken
with too great freedom before Pompey the Great, and died in exile.
Miletus shut her gates against Alexander, and experienced the misfortune
of being taken by storm, which was also the fate of Halicarnassus; long
before this time it was captured by the Persians. Callisthenes relates,
that Phrynichus the tragic writer was fined a thousand drachmæ by the
Athenians for composing a play entitled “The taking of Miletus by
Darius.” The island Lade lies close in front of Miletus, and
small islands about Tragææ,36 which afford a shelter for pirates.
8. Next follows the Gulf of Latmus, on which is situated “Heracleia
under Latmus,”37 as it is called, a small town with a shelter for
vessels. It formerly had the same name as the mountain above, which
Hecatæus thinks was the same as that called by the poet38 the mountain
of the Phtheiri, for he says that the mountain of the Phtheiri was
situated below Latmus; but some say that it was Grium, as being parallel
to Latmus, and extending from the Milesian territory towards the east,
through Caria, as far as Euromus and Chalcetores. However, the mountain
rises up in sight of39 the city.
At a little distance further, after crossing a small river near Latmus,
there is seen in a cave the sepulchre of Endymion. Then from Heracleia
to Pyrrha, a small city, is about 100 stadia by sea, but a little more
from Miletus to Heracleia, if we include the winding of the bays.
9. From Miletus to Pyrrha, in a straight line by sea, is 30 stadia; so
much longer is the journey by sailing near the land.
10. When we are speaking of celebrated places, the reader must endure
with patience the dryness of such geographical descriptions.
From Pyrrha to the mouth of the Mæander are 50 stadia. The ground about
it is marshy and a swamp. In sailing up the river in vessels rowed by
oars to the distance of 30 stadia, we come to Myus,40 one of the
twelve Ionian cities, which, on account of its diminished population, is
now incorporated with Miletus. Xerxes is said to have given this city to
Themistocles to supply him with fish, Magnesia with bread, and Lampsacus
with wine.41
11. At four stadia from Myus is Thymbria, a Carian village, near which
is Aornum; this is a sacred cave called Charonium, which emits
destructive vapours. Above it is Magnesia42 on the Mæander, a colony
of the Magnesians of Thessaly and Crete. We shall speak of it very soon.
12. After the mouths of the Mæander follows the shore of Priene. Above
it is Priene,43 and the mountain Mycale,44 which abounds with
animals of the chace, and is covered with forests. It is situated above
the Samian territory, and forms towards it, beyond the promontory
Trogilium,45 a strait of above 7 stadia in width. Priene is called by
some writers Cadme, because Philotus, its second founder, was a Bœotian.
Bias, one of the seven wise men, was a native of Priene, of whom
Hipponax uses this expression;
“More just in pleadings than Bias of Priene.”
13. In front of Trogilium lies an island of the same name. Thence, which
is the nearest way, is a passage across to Sunium of 1600 stadia. At the
commencement of the voyage, on the right hand are Samos, Icaria, and the
Corsiæ islands;46 on the left, the Melantian rocks.47 The remainder
of the voyage lies through the middle of the Cyclades islands. The
promontory Trogilium itself may be considered as a foot of the mountain
Mycale. Close to Mycale is another mountain, the Pactyas, belonging to
the Ephesian territory, where the Mesogis terminates.
14. From Trogilium to Samos are 40 stadia. Both this and the harbour,
which has a station for vessels, have a southern aspect. A great part of
it is situated on a flat, and is overflowed by the sea, but a part also
rises towards the mountain which overhangs it. On the right hand, in
sailing towards the city, is the Poseidium, a promontory, which forms
towards Mycale the strait of 7 stadia. It has upon it a temple of
Neptune. In front is a small island, Narthecis; on the left, near the
Heræum, is the suburb, and the river Imbrasus, and the Heræum, an
ancient temple, and a large nave, which at present is a repository for
paintings. Besides the great number of paintings in the Heræum, there
are other repositories and some small chapels, filled with works of
ancient art. The Hypæthrum also is full of the best statues. Of these,
three of colossal size, the work of Myron, stand upon the
same base. Antony took them all away, but Augustus Cæsar replaced two,
the Minerva and the Hercules, upon the same base. He transported the
Jupiter to the Capitol, having built a chapel for its reception.
15. The voyage round the island Samos is 600 stadia.48 Formerly, when
the Carians inhabited it, it was called Parthenia, then Anthemus, then
Melamphylus,49 then Samos, either from the name of some native hero,
or from some one who conducted a colony thither from Ithaca and
Cephallenia. In it is a promontory looking towards Drepanum in Icaria,
which has the name of Ampelos, (the Vine,) but the whole mountain, which
spreads over the island, has the same name. The island is not remarkable
for good wine,50 although the islands around, as Chios, Lesbos, Cos,
and almost all the adjacent continent, produce wines of the best kind.
The Ephesian and the Metropolites are good wines, but the Mesogis, the
Tmolus, the Catacecaumene, Cnidos, Smyrna, and other more obscure
places, are distinguished for the excellence of their wines, whether for
gratification or dietetic purposes.
Samos is not very fortunate as regards the production of wine, but in
general it is fertile, as appears from its possession being a subject of
warlike contention, and from the language of its panegyrists, who do not
hesitate to apply to it the proverb,
“It produces even birds’ milk,”
as Menander somewhere says. This was the cause also of the tyrannies
established there, and of the enmity of the Athenians.
16. The tyrannies were at their height in the time of Polycrates and his
brother Syloson. The former was distinguished for his good fortune, and
the possession of such a degree of power as made him master of the sea.
It is related as an instance of his good fortune, that having purposely
thrown into the sea his ring, which was of great value both on account
of the stone and the engraving, a short time afterwards a fisherman
caught the fish which had swallowed it, and on cutting the fish open,
the ring was discovered. When the king of Egypt was informed of this, he
declared, it is said, with a prophetic spirit, that Polycrates, who had
been elevated to such a height of prosperity, would soon end his life
unfortunately; and this was actually the case, for he was taken by the
Persian satrap by stratagem, and crucified. Anacreon, the lyric poet,
was his contemporary, and all his poetry abounds with the praises of
Polycrates.
It is said that in his time Pythagoras, observing the growing tyranny,
left the city, and travelled to Egypt and Babylon, with a view to
acquire knowledge. On his return from his travels, perceiving that the
tyranny still prevailed, he set sail for Italy, and there passed the
remainder of his life.
So much respecting Polycrates.
17. Syloson was left by his brother in a private station. But he made a
present to Darius, son of Hystaspes, of a robe which the latter saw him
wearing, and very much desired to possess. Darius was not king at this
time, but when he became king, Polycrates received as a compensation the
tyranny of Samos. He governed with so much severity, that the city was
depopulated, which gave occasion to the proverb,
“By the pleasure of Syloson there is room enough.”
18. The Athenians formerly sent Pericles their general, and with him
Sophocles the poet, who harassed with the evils of a siege the
refractory Samians. Afterwards51 they sent thither a colony of two
thousand citizens, among whom was Neocles the father of Epicurus, and,
according to report, a school-master. It is said, that Epicurus was
educated here and at Teos, and was admitted among the ephebi at Athens,
having as his comrade in that class Menander the comic poet. Creophylus
was a native of Samos,52 who, it is said, once entertained Homer as
his guest, and received, in return, his poem entitled “The taking of
Œchalia.” Callimachus, on the contrary, intimates in an epigram that it
was the composition of Creophylus, but ascribed to Homer on
account of the story of his hospitable entertainment by Creophylus:
“I am the work of the Samian, who once entertained in his
house, as a guest, the divine Homer. I grieve for the
sufferings of Eurytus, and mourn for the yellow-haired Ioleia.
I am called Homer’s writing. O Jupiter, how glorious this for
Creophylus.”
Some say that he was Homer’s master; according to others, it was not
Creophylus, but Aristeas of Proconnesus.
19. The island of Icaria, from which the Icarian Sea has its name, is
near Samos. The island has its name from Icarus, the son of Dædalus,
who, it is said, having accompanied his father in his flight, when both
of them, furnished with wings, set out from Crete, fell on that island,
unable to sustain his flight. He had mounted too near the sun, and the
wings dropped off on the melting of the wax [with which they were
fastened].
The whole island is 300 stadia in circumference; it has no harbours, but
only anchorages, the best of which is called Histi. A promontory
stretches towards the west. There is also on the island a temple of
Diana, called Tauropolium, and a small town Œnoë; and another,
Dracanum,53 of the same name as the promontory on which it stands,
with an anchorage for vessels. The promontory is distant from the
promontory of the Samians, called Cantharius, 80 stadia, which is the
shortest passage from one to the other. The Samians occupy it at present
in its depopulated state, chiefly for the sake of pasture which it
affords for cattle.
20. Next to the Samian strait at Mycale, on the right hand on the voyage
to Ephesus, is the sea-coast of the Ephesians, a part of which even the
Samians possess. First on the sea-coast is the Panionium,54 distant
from the sea three stadia, where the Panionia, a common festival of the
Ionians, is celebrated, and a sacrifice is performed in honour of the
Heliconian Neptune. The priests are Prienians. We have spoken of them in
the description of Peloponnesus.
Then follows Neapolis, which formerly belonged to the Ephesians, but now
belongs to the Samians, having exchanged Marathesium55 for it, the
more distant for the nearer place. Next is Pygela, a small town,
containing a temple of Diana Munychia. It was founded by Agamemnon, and
colonized by some of his soldiers, who had a disease in the buttocks,
and were called Pygalgeis; as they laboured under this complaint, they
settled there, and the town had the appropriate name of Pygela.56
Next is a harbour called Panormus, with a temple of the Ephesian Diana;
then the city.
On the same coast, at a little distance from the sea, is Ortygia, a fine
wood with trees of all kinds, but the cypress in the greatest abundance.
Through this wood flows the river Cenchrius, in which Latona is said to
have bathed after the birth of her child. For here is laid the scene of
the birth of the child, the cares of the nurse Ortygia, the cave in
which the birth took place, the neighbouring olive tree under which the
goddess first reposed when the pains of child-birth had ceased.
Above the wood is the mountain Solmissus, where, it is said, the Curetes
stationed themselves, and with the noise of their arms perplexed and
terrified Juno, who was enviously watching in secret the delivery of
Latona, who was thus assisted in concealing the birth of the child.
There are many temples in the place, some of which are ancient, others
of later times; in the former are ancient statues; in the latter are
works of Scopas, Latona holding a sceptre, and Ortygia standing by her
with a child in each arm.
A convention and festival are celebrated there every year. It is the
custom for young men to vie with each other, particularly in the
splendour of their convivial entertainments. The body of Curetes
celebrate their Symposia at the same time, and perform certain mystic
sacrifices.
21. The city of Ephesus was inhabited both by Carians and Leleges. After
Androclus had expelled the greatest part of the inhabitants, he settled
his companions about the Athenæum, and the Hypelæum, and in the
mountainous tract at the foot of the Coressus. It was thus inhabited
till the time of Crœsus. Afterwards, the inhabitants descended from the
mountainous district, and settled about the present temple, and
continued there to the time of Alexander. Then Lysimachus built a wall
round the present temple, and, perceiving the inhabitants
unwilling to remove thither, took advantage of a heavy storm of rain
which he saw approaching, and obstructed the drains so as to inundate
the city, and the inhabitants were glad to leave it for another place.
He called the city Arsinoë, after the name of his wife, but the old name
prevailed. A body of elders was enrolled, with whom were associated
persons called Epicleti, who administered all the affairs of the city.
22. Chersiphron57 was the first architect of the temple of Diana;
another afterwards enlarged it, but when Herostratus set fire to it,58
the citizens constructed one more magnificent. They collected for this
purpose the ornaments of the women, contributions from private property,
and the money arising from the sale of pillars of the former temple.
Evidence of these things is to be found in the decrees of that time.
Artemidorus says, that Timæus of Tauromenium, in consequence of his
ignorance of these decrees, and being otherwise a calumniator and
detractor, (whence he had the name of Epitimæus, or Reviler,) avers that
the Ephesians restored the temple by means of the treasure deposited
there by the Persians. But at that time no treasure was deposited, and
if any had been deposited there, it must have been consumed together
with the temple: after the conflagration, when the roof was destroyed,
who would wish to have a deposit lying there, with the sacred enclosure
exposed to the air?
Besides, Artemidorus says, that Alexander promised to defray the expense
of its restoration, both what had been and what would be incurred, on
condition that the work should be attributed to him in the inscription,
but the Ephesians refused to accede to this; much less, then, would they
be disposed to acquire fame by sacrilege and spoliation. He praises also
the reply of an Ephesian to the king, “that it was not fit that a god
should provide temples in honour of gods.”
23. After the completion of the temple, which, he says, was the work of
Cheirocrates (the same person who built Alexandria, and also promised
Alexander that he would form Mount Athos into a statue of him, which
should represent him as pouring a libation into a dish out of an ewer;
that he would build two cities, one on the right hand of the mountain,
and another on the left, and a river should flow out of the dish from
one to the other,)59—after the completion of the temple, he says that
the multitude of other sacred offerings were purchased by the Ephesians,
at the value set on them by artificers, and that the altar was almost
entirely full of the works of Praxiteles. They showed us also some of
the performances of Thraso, namely, the Hecatesium, a Penelope,60 and
the old woman Eurycleia.
The priests were eunuchs, who were called Megabyzi. It was the practice
to send to various places for persons worthy of this office, and they
were held in high honour. They were obliged to appoint virgins as their
colleagues in their priesthood. At present some of their rites and
customs are observed, and some are neglected.
The temple was formerly, and is at present, a place of refuge, but the
limits of the sanctity of this asylum have been frequently altered;
Alexander extended them to the distance of a stadium. Mithridates
discharged an arrow from the angle of the roof, and supposed that it
fell a little beyond the distance of a stadium. Antonius doubled this
distance, and included within the range of the sanctuary a certain
portion of the city. This was attended with much evil, as it placed the
city in the power of criminals and malefactors. On this account Augustus
Cæsar abolished the privilege.
24. The city has an arsenal and a harbour. The entrance of the harbour
was made narrow, by order of the king Attalus Philadelphus, who,
together with the persons that constructed it, was disappointed at the
result. The harbour was formerly shallow, on account of the embankment
of earth accumulated by the Caÿster; but the king, supposing that there
would be deep water for the entrance of large vessels of
burden, if a mole were thrown up before the mouth of the river, which
was very wide, gave orders for the construction of a mole; but the
contrary effect took place, for the mud, being confined within the
harbour, made the whole of it shallow to the mouth. Before the
construction of the mole, the flow and ebb of the sea cleared the mud
away entirely, by forcing it outwards.
Such then is the nature of the harbour.
The city, by the advantages which it affords, daily improves, and is the
largest mart in Asia within the Taurus.
25. Among illustrious persons in ancient times natives of Ephesus were
Heracleitus, surnamed Scoteinus, or the Obscure, and Hermodorus, of whom
Heracleitus himself says:
“The Ephesians, youths and all, deserve hanging, for expelling
Hermodorus, an honest citizen,61 a citizen distinguished for
his virtues, and saying, let there be no such amongst us; if
there be, let it be in another place and among other people.”
Hermodorus seems to have compiled laws for the Romans. Hipponax the poet
was an Ephesian, and the painters Parrhasius and Apelles.
In more recent times was Alexander the orator, surnamed Lychnus, or the
Lamp;62 he was an administrator of state affairs, a writer of history,
and left behind him poems which contain a description of the heavenly
phenomena and a geographical account of the continents, each of which
forms the subject of a distinct poem.
26. Next to the mouth of the Caÿster is a lake called Selinusia, formed
by the overflowing of the sea. It is succeeded by another, which
communicates with this. They afford a large revenue, of which the kings,
although it was sacred, deprived the goddess, but the Romans restored
it; then the tax-gatherers seized upon the tribute by force, and
converted it to their own use. Artemidorus, who was sent on an embassy
to Rome, as he says, recovered possession of the lakes for the goddess,
and also of the territory of Heracleotis, which was on the point of
separating from Ephesus, by proceeding in a suit at Rome. In return for
these services, the city erected in the temple to his honour a statue of
gold.
In the most retired part of the lake is a temple of a king, built, it is
said, by Agamemnon.
27. Next follows the mountain Gallesius, and Colophon, an Ionian city,
in front of which is the grove of Apollo Clarius, where was once an
ancient oracle.63 It is said that the prophet Calchas came hither on
foot, on his return from Troy with Amphilochus, the son of Amphiaraus,
and that meeting at Clarus with a prophet superior to himself, Mopsus,
the son of Mantus, the daughter of Teiresias, he died of vexation.
Hesiod relates the fable somewhat in this manner: Calchas propounds to
Mopsus something of this kind:
“I am surprised to see how large a quantity of figs there is
on this small tree; can you tell the number?”
Mopsus answered:
“There are ten thousand; they will measure a medimnus, and
there is one over, which you cannot comprehend.”
Thus he spoke; the number and measure were exact. Then Calchas closed
his eyes in the sleep of death.
But Pherecydes says, that Calchas proposed a question respecting a
pregnant sow, and asked how many young she had; the other answered,
“three, one of which is a sow.” Upon his giving the true answer, Calchas
died of vexation. According to others, Calchas propounded the question
of the sow, and Mopsus that of the fig-tree; that Mopsus returned the
true answer, and that Calchas was mistaken, who died of vexation,
according to some oracular prophecy.
Sophocles, in his “Helen Claimed,” says that he was destined by fate to
die when he should meet with a prophet superior to himself. But this
writer transfers the scene of the rivalry, and of the death of Calchas,
to Cilicia.
These are ancient traditions.
28. The Colophonians once possessed a considerable armament,
consisting both of ships and of cavalry. In the latter they were so much
superior to other nations, that in any obstinate engagement, on
whichever side the Colophonian horse were auxiliaries, they decided it;
whence came the proverb, “he put the Colophon to it,” when a person
brought any affair to a decisive issue.64
Among some of the remarkable persons born at Colophon were Mimnermus, a
flute-player and an elegiac poet; Xenophanes, the natural philosopher,
who composed Silli in verse. Pindar mentions one Polymnastus also, a
Colophonian, as distinguished for his skill in music:
“Thou knowest the celebrated strains of Polymnastus, the
Colophonian:”
and some writers affirm that Homer was of that city. The voyage from
Ephesus in a straight line is 70 stadia, and including the winding of
the bays, 120.
29. Next to Colophon is the mountain Coracium, and a small island sacred
to Artemis, to which it is believed that the hinds swim across to bring
forth their young.
Then follows Lebedos,65 distant from Colophon 120 stadia. This is the
place of meeting and residence66 of the Dionysiac artists (who travel
about) Ionia as far as the Hellespont. In Ionia a general assembly is
held, and games are celebrated every year in honour of Bacchus. These
artists formerly inhabited Teos,67 a city of the Ionians, next in
order after Colophon, but on the breaking out of a sedition they took
refuge at Ephesus; and when Attalus settled them at Myonnesus,68
between Teos and Lebedos, the Teians sent a deputation to request the
Romans not to permit Myonnesus to be fortified, as it would endanger
their safety. They migrated to Lebedos, and the Lebedians were glad to
receive them, on account of their own scanty population.
Teos is distant from Lebedos 120 stadia. Between these two places is the
island Aspis,69 which some writers call Arconnesus. Myonnesus
is situated upon high ground resembling a peninsula.
30. Teos is situated upon a peninsula, and has a port. Anacreon, the
lyric poet, was a native of this place; in his time, the Teians, unable
to endure the insults and injuries of the Persians, abandoned Teos, and
removed to Abdera, whence originated the verse—
“Abdera, the beautiful colony of the Teians.”
Some of them returned in after-times to their own country. We have said
that Apellicon was of Teos, and Hecatæus also, the historian.
There is another port to the north, at the distance of 30 stadia from
the city, Gerrhæïdæ.70
31. Next follows Chalcideis, and the isthmus of the peninsula71 of the
Teians and Erythræans; the latter inhabit the interior of the isthmus.
The Teians and Clazomenians are situated on the isthmus itself. The
Teians occupy the southern side of the isthmus, namely, Chalcideis;72
the Clazomenians, the northern side, whence they are contiguous to the
Erythræan district. At the commencement of the isthmus is Hypocremnus,
having on this side the Erythræan, and on the other, the Clazomenian
territory. Above Chalcideis is a grove, dedicated to Alexander, the son
of Philip, and a festival called Alexandreia is proclaimed and
celebrated there by the common body of the Ionians.
The passage across the isthmus from the Alexandrine grove and
Chalcideis, as far as the Hypocremnus, is 50 stadia (150?). The circuit
round by sea is more than 1000 stadia. Somewhere about the middle of the
voyage is Erythræ,73 an Ionian city, with a port, having in front four
small islands, called Hippoi (the Horses).
32. But before we come to Erythræ, the first place we meet with is
Eræ,74 a small city belonging to the Teians.
Next is Corycus, a lofty mountain; and below it, Casystes, a port;75
then another, called the port of Erythræ, and afterwards many others.
It is said that the whole sea-coast along the Corycus was
the haunt of pirates, who were called Corycæans, and who had contrived a
new mode of attacking vessels. They dispersed themselves among the
ports, and went among the merchants who had just arrived, and listened
to their conversation respecting the freight of their ships, and the
places whither they were bound. The pirates then collected together,
attacked the merchants at sea, and plundered the vessels. Hence all
inquisitive persons and those who listen to private and secret
conversation we call Corycæans, and say proverbially,
“The Corycæan must have overheard it,”
when any one thinks that he has done or said anything not to be
divulged, but is betrayed by spies or persons anxious to be informed of
what does not concern them.
33. Next to Corycus is Halonnesus, a small island, then the
Argennum,76 a promontory of the Erythræan territory, situated close to
Poseidium, belonging to the Chians, and forming a strait of about 60
stadia in width. Between Erythræ and Hypocremnus is Mimas,77 a lofty
mountain, abounding with beasts of chase, and well wooded. Then follows
Cybelia, a village, and a promontory called Melæna,78 (or Black,)
which has a quarry whence millstones are obtained.
34. Erythræ was the native place of the Sibyl, an ancient inspired
prophetess. In the time of Alexander there was another Sibyl, who was
also a prophetess, whose name was Athenais, a native of the same city;
and in our age there was Heracleides the Herophilian physician, a native
of Erythræ, a fellow-student of Apollonius surnamed Mus.
35. The coasting circumnavigation of Chios is 900 stadia. It has a
city79 with a good port, and a station for eighty vessels. In the
voyage round the island, a person sailing from the city, with the island
on his right hand, first meets with Poseidium,80 then Phanæ,81 a
deep harbour, and a temple of Apollo, and a grove of palm trees; then
Notium, a part of the coast affording a shelter for vessels; next
Laïus,82 which is also a place of shelter for vessels; hence to the
city is an isthmus of 60 stadia. The circumnavigation is 360 stadia, as
I have before described it. Next, the promontory Melæna,83 opposite to
which is Psyra,84 an island distant from the promontory 50 stadia,
lofty, with a city of the same name. The island is 40 stadia in
circumference. Next is the rugged tract, Ariusia, without harbours,
about 30 stadia in extent. It produces the best of the Grecian wines.
Then follows Pelinæum,85 the highest mountain in the island. In the
island is a marble quarry.
Among illustrious natives of Chios were Ion86 the tragic writer,
Theopompus the historian, and Theocritus the sophist. The two latter
persons were opposed to each other in the political parties in the
state. The Chians claim Homer as a native of their country, alleging as
a proof the Homeridæ, as they are called, descendants from his family,
whom Pindar mentions:
“Whence also the Homeridæ, the chanters of the rhapsodies,
most frequently begin their song.”87
The Chians once possessed a naval force, and aspired to the sovereignty
of the sea, and to liberty.88
From Chios to Lesbos is a voyage of about 400 stadia, with a south wind.
36. After the Hypocremnus is Chytrium, a place where
Clazomenæ89 formerly stood; then the present city, having in front
eight small islands, the land of which is cultivated by husbandmen.
Anaxagoras, the natural philosopher, was a distinguished Clazomenian; he
was a disciple of Anaximenes the Milesian, and master of Archelaus the
natural philosopher, and of Euripides the poet.
Next is a temple of Apollo, and hot springs, the bay of Smyrna, and the
city Smyrna.
37. Next is another bay, on which is situated the ancient Smyrna, at the
distance of 20 stadia from the present city. After Smyrna had been razed
by the Lydians, the inhabitants continued for about four hundred years
to live in villages. It was then restored by Antigonus, and afterwards
by Lysimachus, and at present it is the most beautiful city in Ionia.
One portion of Smyrna is built up on a hill, but the greater part is in
the plain near the harbour, the Metroum, and the Gymnasium. The division
of the streets is excellent, and as nearly as possible in straight
lines. There are paved roads, large quadrangular porticos, both on a
level with the ground and with an upper story.
There is also a library, and the Homereium, a quadrangular portico,
which has a temple of Homer and a statue. For the Smyrnæans, above all
others, urge the claims of their city to be the birth-place of Homer,
and they have a sort of brass money, called Homereium.90
The river Meles flows near the walls. Besides other conveniences with
which the city is furnished, there is a close harbour.
There is one, and not a trifling, defect in the work of the architects,
that when they paved the roads, they did not make drains beneath them;
the filth consequently lies on the surface, and, during rains
particularly, the receptacles of the filth spread it over the streets.
It was here that Dolabella besieged and slew Trebonius, one of the
murderers of divus Cæsar; he also destroyed many parts of the city.
38. Next to Smyrna is Leucæ,91 a small city, which Aristonicus caused
to revolt, after the death of Attalus, the son of Philometor,92 under
pretence of being descended from the royal family, but with the
intention of usurping the kingdom. He was, however, defeated in a naval
engagement by the Ephesians, near the Cumæan district, and expelled. But
he went into the interior of the country, and quickly collected together
a multitude of needy people and slaves, who were induced to follow him
by the hope of obtaining their freedom, whom he called Heliopolitæ. He
first surprised Thyateira,93 he then got possession of Apollonis, and
had an intention of making himself master of other fortresses, but he
did not maintain his ground long. The cities sent immediately a large
body of troops against him, and were supported by Nicomedes the
Bithynian and the kings of Cappadocia. Afterwards five deputies of the
Romans came, then an army, and the consul Publius Crassus. These were
followed by M. Perperna, who took Aristonicus prisoner, sent him to
Rome, and thus put an end to the war. Aristonicus died in prison;
Perperna died of some disease, and Crassus fell near Leucæ, in a
skirmish with some people who had attacked him from an ambuscade. Manius
Aquillius the consul came afterwards, with ten lieutenants; he regulated
the affairs of the province, and established that form of government
which continues at present.
After Leucæ follows Phocæa,94 situated on a bay. I have mentioned this
place in the description of Massalia.95 Then follow the confines of
the Ionians and the Æolians. I have already spoken of these.96
In the interior of the Ionian maritime territory there remain to be
described the places about the road leading from Ephesus, as far as
Antioch97 and the Mæander.
This tract is occupied by a mixed population of Lydians, Carians, and
Greeks.
39. The first place after Ephesus is Magnesia, an Æolian city, and
called Magnesia on the Mæander, for it is situated near it; but it is
still nearer the Lethæus, which discharges itself into the Mæander. It
has its source in Pactyes, a mountain in the Ephesian district. There is
another Lethæus in Gortyne, a third near Tricca, where
Asclepius is said to have been born, and the fourth among the Hesperitæ
Libyans.98
Magnesia lies in a plain, near a mountain called Thorax,99 on which it
is said Daphitas the grammarian was crucified, for reviling the kings in
a distich—
“O slaves, with backs purpled with stripes, filings of the
gold of Lysimachus, you are the kings of Lydia and Phrygia.”
An oracle is said to have warned Daphitas to beware of the Thorax.100
40. The Magnesians appear to be the descendants of Delphians who
inhabited the Didymæan mountains in Thessaly, and of whom Hesiod says,
“or, as the chaste virgin, who inhabits the sacred Didymæan
hills in the plain of Dotium, opposite Amyrus, abounding with
vines, and bathes her feet in the lake Bœbias—”
At Magnesia also was the temple of Dindymene, the mother of the gods.
Her priestess, according to some writers, was the daughter, according to
others, the wife, of Themistocles. At present there is no temple,
because the city has been transferred to another place. In the present
city is the temple of Artemis Leucophryene, which in the size of the
nave and in the number of sacred offerings is inferior to the temple at
Ephesus; but, in the fine proportion and the skill exhibited in the
structure of the enclosure, it greatly surpasses the Ephesian temple; in
size it is superior to all the temples in Asia, except that at Ephesus
and that at Didymi.
Anciently the Magnetes were utterly extirpated by Treres, a Cimmerian
tribe, who for a long period made successful inroads. Subsequently
Ephesians got possession of the place.101 Callinus speaks of the
Magnetes as still in a flourishing state, and successful in the war
against the Ephesians. But Archilochus seems to have been acquainted
with the calamities which had befallen them:
“bewail the misfortunes of the Thasians, not of the Magnetes;”
whence we may conjecture that Archilochus was posterior to Callinus. Yet
Callinus mentions some other earlier inroad of the Cimmerians, when he
says—
“and now the army of the daring Cimmerians is advancing,”
where he is speaking of the capture of Sardis.
41. Among the illustrious natives of Magnesia were Hegesias the orator,
who first introduced the Asiatic fervour, as it was called, and
corrupted the established Attic style of eloquence; Simon (Simus?) the
lyric poet, who also corrupted the system and plan of former lyric
poets, by introducing the Simodia; it was still more corrupted by the
Lysiodi and Magodi;102 Cleomachus the pugilist, who was enamoured of a
certain cinædus, and a female servant, who was maintained by the
cinædus, imitated the sort of dialect and the manners of the cinædi.
Sotades was the first person that employed the language of the cinædi,
and he was followed by Alexander the Ætolian; but these were only prose
writers. Lysis added verse, but this had been done before his time by
Simus.
The theatres had raised the reputation of Anaxenor, the player on the
cithara, but Antony elevated him as high as possible, by appointing him
receiver of the tribute from four cities, and by giving him a guard of
soldiers for the protection of his person. His native country also
augmented his dignity, by investing him with the sacred purple of
Jupiter Sosipolis, as is represented in the painted figure in the forum.
There is also in the theatre a figure in brass, with this inscription:
“It is truly delightful to listen to a minstrel
such as he is, whose voice is like that of the gods.”103
The artist who engraved the words was inattentive to the space which
they would occupy, and omitted the last letter of the second verse,
ΑΥΔΗΙ, (voice,) the breadth of the base not being large
enough to allow its insertion; this afforded an occasion of accusing the
citizens of ignorance, on account of the ambiguity of the inscription;
for it is not clear whether the nominative ΑΥΔΗ, or the
dative ΑΥΔΗΙ, is to be understood, for many persons write
the dative cases without the Ι, and reject the usage, as not
founded on any natural reason.
42. After Magnesia is the road to Tralles;104 travellers have on the
left hand Mesogis,105 and on the right hand, and from the road itself,
the plain of the Mæander, which is occupied in common by Lydians,
Carians, Ionians, Milesians, Mysians, and the Æolians of Magnesia.
The character of the sites of places is the same even as far as
Nysa106 and Antioch.
The city of Tralles is built upon ground in the shape somewhat of a
trapezium. It has a citadel strongly fortified, and the places around
are well defended. It is as well peopled as any of the cities in Asia,
and its inhabitants are wealthy; some of them constantly occupy chief
stations in the province, and are called Asiarchs. Among the latter was
Pythodorus, originally a native of Nysa; but, induced by the celebrity
of the place, he migrated hither. He was one of the few friends of
Pompey who were fortunate. His wealth was kingly, and consisted of more
than two thousand talents, which he redeemed when it was confiscated by
divus Cæsar, on account of his attachment to Pompey, and left it
undiminished to his children. Pythodoris, who is at present queen in
Pontus, and whom we have mentioned before, is his daughter. Pythodorus
flourished in our times, and also Menodorus, an eloquent man, and a
person of dignified and grave demeanour; he was priest of Jupiter
Larisæus. He was circumvented by the adherents of Domitius Ænobarbus,
who, on the credit of informers, put him to death, for attempting, as
was supposed, the revolt of his fleet.
Tralles produced also celebrated orators, Dionysocles, and after him
Damasus, surnamed Scombrus.
It is said to have been founded by Argives and a body of Tralli
Thracians,107 from whom it had its name. It was governed for a short
time by tyrants, sons of Cratippus, about the period of the Mithridatic
war.
43. Nysa is situated near the Mesogis, resting for the most part against
the mountain. It is as it were a double town, for a kind of torrent
watercourse divides it into two parts, and forms a valley, one part of
which has a bridge over it, connecting the two towns; the other is
adorned with an amphitheatre; underneath it is a passage through which
the waters of the torrents flow out of sight.
Near the theatre are situated108 two heights; below one lies the
gymnasium for the young men; below the other is the forum, and a place
of exercise for older persons. To the south below the city lies the
plain, as at Tralles.
44. On the road between Tralles and Nysa is a village of the Nysæans,
not far from the city Acharaca, in which is the Plutonium, to which is
attached a large grove, a temple of Pluto and Proserpine, and the
Charonium, a cave which overhangs the grove, and possesses some singular
physical properties. The sick, it is said, who have confidence in the
cures performed by these deities, resort thither, and live in the
village near the cave, among experienced priests, who sleep at night in
the open air, on behoof of the sick, and direct the modes of cure by
their dreams. The priests invoke the gods to cure the sick, and
frequently take them into the cave, where, as in a den, they are placed
to remain in quiet without food for several days. Sometimes the sick
themselves observe their own dreams, but apply to these persons, in
their character of priests and guardians of the mysteries, to interpret
them, and to counsel what is to be done. To others the place is
interdicted and fatal.
An annual festival, to which there is a general resort, is celebrated at
Acharaca, and at that time particularly are to be seen and
heard those who frequent it, conversing about cures performed
there.109 During this feast the young men of the gymnasium and the
ephebi, naked and anointed with oil,110 carry off a bull by stealth at
midnight, and hurry it away into the cave. It is then let loose, and
after proceeding a short distance falls down and expires.
45. Thirty stadia from Nysa, as you cross the Mesogis towards the
southern parts of Mount Tmolus,111 is a place called Leimon, or the
Meadow, to which the Nysæans and all the people around repair when they
celebrate a festival. Not far from this plain is an aperture in the
ground, sacred to the same deities, which aperture is said to extend as
far as Acharaca. They say that the poet mentions this meadow, in the
words,
and they show a temple dedicated to two heroes, Caÿstrius and Asius, and
the Caÿster flowing near it.
46. Historians relate that three brothers, Athymbrus, Athymbradus, and
Hydrelus, coming hither from Lacedæmon, founded (three?) cities, to
which they gave their own names; that the population of these towns
afterwards declined, but that out of these jointly Nysa was peopled. The
Nysæans at present regard Athymbrus as their founder.
47. Beyond the Mæander and in the neighbourhood are considerable
settlements, Coscinia113 and Orthosia, and on this side the river,
Briula, Mastaura,114 Acharaca, and above the city on the mountain,
Aroma; the letter o is shortened in the pronunciation. From this
latter place is obtained the Aromeus, the best Mesogitian wine.
48. Among illustrious natives of Nysa were Apollonius the Stoic
philosopher, the most eminent of the disciples of Panætius, and of
Menecrates, the disciple of Aristarchus; Aristodemus, the son of
Menecrates, whom, when I was a very young man, I heard lecturing on
philosophy, in extreme old age, at Nysa; Sostratus, the brother of
Aristodemus, and another Aristodemus, his cousin, the master of Pompey
the Great, were distinguished grammarians. My master taught rhetoric
also at Rhodes, and in his own country he had two schools; in the
morning he taught rhetoric, in the evening grammar. When he
superintended the education of the children of Pompey at Rome, he was
satisfied with teaching a school of grammar.
1. The places beyond the Mæander, which remain to be described, belong
to the Carians. The Carians here are not intermixed with Lydians, but
occupy the whole country by themselves, if we except a small portion of
the sea-coast, of which the Milesians and Mysians have taken possession.
Caria115 begins on the sea-coast opposite to Rhodes, and ends at
Poseidium,116 belonging to the Milesians. In the interior are the
extremities of Taurus, which extend as far as the Mæander. For the
mountains situated above the Chelidonian islands,117 as they are
called, which lie in front of the confines of Pamphylia and Lycia, are,
it is said, the beginning of the Taurus; for the Taurus has there some
elevation, and indeed a mountainous ridge of Taurus separates the whole
of Lycia towards the exterior and the southern part from Cibyra and its
district, as far as the country opposite to Rhodes. Even there a
mountainous tract is continued; it is, however, much lower in height,
and is not considered as any longer belonging to Taurus, nor is there
the distinction of parts lying within and parts lying without the
Taurus, on account of the eminences and depressions being scattered
about through the whole country both in breadth and length, and not
presenting anything like a separation-wall.
The whole voyage along the coast, including the winding of
the bays, is 4900 stadia, and that along the country opposite to Rhodus
1500 stadia.
2. The beginning of this tract is Dædala,118 a stronghold; and ends at
the mountain Phœnix,119 as it is called, both of which belong to the
Rhodian territory. In front, at the distance of 120 stadia from Rhodes,
lies Eleussa.120 In sailing from Dædala towards the west in a straight
line along Cilicia, Pamphylia, and Lycia, in the midway is a bay called
Glaucus, with good harbours; then is the promontory Artemisium, and a
temple; next, the grove sacred to Latona; above this, and at the
distance of 60 stadia, is Calynda, a city; then Caunus,121 and a deep
river near it, the Calbis,122 which may be entered by vessels; between
these is Pisilis.
3. The city Caunus has a naval arsenal and a close harbour. Above the
city upon a height is Imbrus, a stronghold. Although the country is
fertile, yet the city is allowed by all to be unhealthy in summer, on
account of the heat, and in autumn, from the abundance of fruits.
Stories of the following kind are related respecting the city.
Stratonicus, the player on the cithara, seeing the Caunians somewhat
dark and yellow,123 said that this was what the poet meant in the
line,
“As are the leaves, so is the race of men.”
124
When he was accused of ridiculing the unhealthiness of the city, he
answered, “Can I be so bold as to call that city unhealthy, where even
the dead walk about?”
The Caunians once revolted from the Rhodians, but, by a decision of the
Romans, they were received again by the Rhodians into favour. There is
in existence an oration of Molo against the Caunians.
It is said that they speak the same language as the Carians, that they
came from Crete, and retained their own laws and customs.125
4. Next is Physcus,126 a small town; it has a port and a grove sacred
to Latona: then Loryma, a rugged line of sea-coast, and a mountain, the
highest of any in that quarter, on the summit of which is Phœnix, a
stronghold, of the same name as the mountain. In front is the island
Eleussa, at the distance of 4 stadia. Its circumference is about 8
stadia.
5. The city of the Rhodians is on the eastern promontory. With regard to
harbours, roads, walls, and other buildings, it so much surpasses other
cities, that we know of none equal, much less superior to it.
Their political constitution and laws were excellent, and the care
admirable with which they administered affairs of state generally, and
particularly those relative to their marine. Hence being for a long
period masters of the sea, they put an end to piracy, and became allies
of the Romans, and of those kings who were well affected to the Romans
and the Greeks; hence also the city was suffered to preserve her
independence, and was embellished with many votive offerings. These are
distributed in various places, but the greatest part of them are
deposited in the Dionysium and in the gymnasium. The most remarkable is
the Colossus of the Sun, which, the author of the iambics says, was
“seventy cubits in height, the work of Chares of Lindus.”
It now lies on the ground, having been thrown down by an earthquake, and
is broken off at the knees. An oracle prohibited its being raised again.
This is the most remarkable of the votive offerings, and it is allowed
to be one of the seven wonders of the world.127 There were also the
pictures by Protogenes,128 the Ialysus, and the Satyr, who was
represented standing by a pillar. On the top of the pillar
was a partridge. The bird strongly attracted, as was natural, the gaping
admiration of the people, when the picture was first hung up in public,
and they were so much delighted, that the Satyr, although executed with
great skill, was not noticed. The partridge-breeders were still more
struck with the picture of the bird. They brought tame partridges,
which, when placed opposite to the picture, made their call, and drew
together crowds of people. When Protogenes observed that the principal
had become the subordinate part of his work, he obtained permission of
the curators of the temple to efface the bird, which he did.
The Rhodians, although their form of government is not democratic, are
attentive to the welfare of the people, and endeavour to maintain the
multitude of poor. The people receive allowances of corn, and the rich
support the needy, according to an ancient usage. There are also public
offices in the state, the object of which is to procure and distribute
provisions,129 so that the poor may obtain subsistence, and the city
not suffer for want of persons to serve her, especially in manning her
fleets.
Some of the dockyards are kept private, and the multitude are prohibited
from seeing them. If any person should be found inspecting, or to have
entered them, he would be punished with death. As at Massalia and
Cyzicus,130 so here particularly, everything relating to architects,
the manufacture of engines, stores of arms, and of other materials, is
administered with peculiar care, much more so than in other places.
6. Like the people of Halicarnassus,131 Cnidus, and Cos, the Rhodians
are of Doric origin. Some of the Dorians, who founded Megara after the
death of Codrus, remained there; others associated themselves with the
colony which went to Crete under the conduct of Althæmenes the Argive;
the rest were distributed at Rhodus, and among the cities just
mentioned.
But these migrations are more recent than the events related by Homer.
For Cnidus and Halicarnassus were not then in existence. Rhodes and Cos
existed, but were inhabited by Heracleidæ. Tlepolemus, when he attained
manhood,
“slew the maternal uncle of his father, the aged Licymnius. He
immediately built ships, and, collecting a large body of
people, fled away with them:”132
and adds afterwards—
“after many sufferings on the voyage, he came to Rhodes; they
settled there according to their tribes, in three bodies:”
and mentions by name the cities then existing133—
“Lindus, Ialysus, and the white Cameirus,”
the city of the Rhodians not being yet founded.
Homer does not here mention Dorians by name, but means Æolians and
Bœotians, since Hercules and Licymnius lived in Bœotia. If however, as
others relate, Tlepolemus set out from Argos and Tiryns, even so the
colony would not be Dorian, for it was settled before the return of the
Heracleidæ.
And of the Coans also Homer says—
“their leaders were Pheidippus and Antiphus, two sons of
Thessalus the King, an Heracleid;”134
and these names designate rather an Æolian than a Dorian origin.
7. Rhodes was formerly called Ophiussa and Stadia, then Telchinis, from
the Telchines, who inhabited the island.135
These Telchines are called by some writers charmers and enchanters, who
besprinkle animals and plants, with a view to destroy them, with the
water of the Styx, mingled with sulphur. Others on the contrary say,
that they were persons who excelled in certain mechanical arts, and that
they were calumniated by jealous rivals, and thus acquired a bad
reputation; that they came from Crete, and first landed at Cyprus, and
then removed to Rhodes. They were the first workers in iron and brass,
and were the makers of Saturn’s scythe.
I have spoken of them before, but the variety of fables [CAS. 654]
which are related of them induces me to resume their history, and to
supply what may have been omitted.
8. After the Telchines, the Heliadæ136 were said, according to
fabulous accounts, to have occupied the island. One of these Heliadæ,
Cercaphus, and his wife Cydippe had children, who founded the cities
called after their names—
“Lindus, Ialysus, and the white Cameirus.”
137
Others say, that Tlepolemus founded them, and gave to them the names of
some of the daughters of Danaüs.
9. The present city was built during the Peloponnesian war, by the same
architect,138 it is said, who built the Piræus. The Piræus, however,
does not continue to exist, having formerly sustained injuries from the
Lacedæmonians, who threw down the walls, and then from Sylla, the Roman
general.
10. It is related of the Rhodians that their maritime affairs were in a
flourishing state, not only from the time of the foundation of the
present city, but that many years before the institution of the Olympic
festival, they sailed to a great distance from their own country for the
protection of sailors. They sailed as far as Spain, and there founded
Rhodus, which the people of Marseilles afterwards occupied; they founded
Parthenope139 among the Opici, and Elpiæ in Daunia, with the
assistance of Coans. Some authors relate, that after their return from
Troy they colonized the Gymnasian islands. According to Timæus, the
greater of these islands is the largest known,140 next the seven
following, Sardinia, Sicily, Cyprus, Crete, Eubœa,141 Corsica, and
Lesbos; but this is a mistake, for these others are much larger. It is
said, that gymnetes (or light-armed soldiers142) are called by the
Phœnicians balearides, and that from hence the Gymnasian islands were
called Balearides.
Some of the Rhodians settled in the neighbourhood of Sybaris, in the
Chonian territory.143 Homer seems to bear evidence of the former
prosperity of the Rhodians, from the very foundation of the three
cities;
“they settled according to their tribes, in three companies,
and were the favourites of Jupiter, who showered upon them
great wealth.”144
Other writers have applied these verses to a fable, according to which,
at the birth of Minerva, it rained gold on the island from the head of
Jupiter, as Pindar has said.145
The island is 920 stadia in circumference.
11. In sailing from the city, and leaving the island on the right hand,
the first place we meet with is Lindus,146 a city situated on a
mountain extending far towards the south, and particularly towards
Alexandreia (in Egypt).147 There is here a celebrated temple of the
Lindian Diana, built by the Danaides. Formerly, the Lindians, like the
inhabitants of Cameirus,148 and Ialyssus, formed an independent state,
but afterwards they all settled at Rhodes.
Cleobulus, one of the seven wise men, was a native of Lindus.
12. Next to Lindus is Ixia,149 a stronghold, and Mnasyrium; then the
Atabyris,150 the highest mountain in the island, sacred to Jupiter
Atabyrius; then Cameirus; then Ialysus a village, and above it is an
acropolis called Ochyroma (the Fortification); then, at the distance of
about 80 stadia, the city of the Rhodians. Between these is the
Thoantium, a sort of beach, immediately in front of which are situated
the Sporades islands lying about Chalcis, which we have mentioned
before.151
13. There have been many remarkable persons, natives of Rhodes, both
generals and athletæ, among whom were the ancestors of Panætius the
philosopher. Among statesmen, orators, and philosophers, were Panætius,
Stratocles, Andronicus the Peripatetic, Leonides the Stoic, and long
before the time of these persons, Praxiphanes, Hieronymus, and Eudēmus.
Poseidonius was concerned in the administration of the affairs of state,
and taught philosophy at Rhodes, (but he was a native of Apameia in
Syria,) as did Apollonius Malacus, and Molon, who were
natives of Alabanda, and disciples of Menecles the rhetorician.
Apollonius had resided at Rhodes long before, but Molon came late;
whence the former said to him “late comer,” Ὀψὲ μολών,
instead of ἐλθών.152 Peisander, a Rhodian
poet, author of the Heracleia; Simmias the grammarian, and Aristocles,
of our time. Dionysius the Thracian, and Apollonius, author of the
Argonautics, although natives of Alexandreia, were called Rhodians.
This is sufficient on the subject of the island of Rhodes.
14. There is a bend of the Carian coast opposite to Rhodes, immediately
after Eleus153 and Loryma, towards the north, and then the ship’s
course is in a straight line to the Propontis,154 and forms as it were
a meridian line of about 500 stadia in length, or somewhat less. Along
this line are situated the remainder of Caria, Ionians, Æolians, Troy,
and the parts about Cyzicus and Byzantium. Next to Loryma is the
Cynossema, or dogs’ monument,155 and the island Syme.156
15. Then follows Cnidus,157 which has two harbours, one of which is a
close harbour, fit for receiving triremes, and a naval station for 20
vessels. In front of Cnidus is an island, in circumference about 7
stadia; it rises high, in the form of a theatre, and is united by a mole
to the continent, and almost makes Cnidus a double city, for a great
part of the inhabitants occupy the island, which shelters both harbours.
Opposite to it, far out at sea, is Nisyrus.158
Illustrious natives of Cnidus were, first, Eudoxus the mathematician, a
disciple of Plato’s; Agatharchides, the Peripatetic philosopher and
historian; Theopompus, one of the most powerful of the friends of divus
Cæsar, and his son Artemidorus. Ctesias also, the physician of
Artaxerxes, was a native of this place. He wrote a history of Assyria
and Persia.
Next after Cnidus are Ceramus159 and Bargasa, small towns overlooking
the sea.
16. Then follows Halicarnasus, formerly called Zephyra, the royal seat
of the dynasts of Caria. Here is the sepulchre of Mausolus, one of the
seven wonders of the world;160
Artemisia erected it, in honour of her husband. Here also is the
fountain Salmacis, which has a bad repute, for what reason I know not,
for making those who drink of it effeminate. Mankind, enervated by
luxury, impute the blame of its effects to different kinds of air and
water, but these are not the causes of luxury, but riches and
intemperance.
There is an acropolis at Halicarnasus. In front of it lies
Arconnesus.161 It had, among others, as its founders, Anthes and a
body of Trœzenians.162
Among the natives of Halicarnasus were Herodotus the historian, who was
afterwards called Thurius, because he was concerned in sending out the
colony to Thurii; Heracleitus the poet, the friend of Callimachus; and
in our time, Dionysius the historian.
17. Halicarnasus suffered, when it was taken by storm by Alexander.
Hecatomnus, who was then king of the Carians, had three sons, Mausolus,
Hidrieus, and Pixodarus, and two daughters. Mausolus, the eldest son,
married Artemisia, the eldest daughter; Hidrieus, the second son,
married Ada, the other sister. Mausolus came to the throne, and, dying
without children, left the kingdom to his wife, by whom the
above-mentioned sepulchre was erected. She pined away for grief at the
loss of her husband. Hidrieus succeeded her; he died a natural death,
and was succeeded by his wife Ada. She was ejected by Pixodarus, the
surviving son of Hecatomnus. Having espoused the party of the Persians,
Pixodarus sent for a satrap to share the kingdom with him. After the
death of Pixodarus, the satrap became master of Halicarnasus. But upon
the arrival of Alexander, he sustained a siege. His wife was Ada,
daughter of Pixodarus, and Aphneïs, a woman of Cappadocia. But Ada, the
daughter of Hecatomnus, whom Pixodarus ejected, entreated Alexander, and
endeavoured to prevail upon him to reïnstate her in the kingdom of which
she had been deprived; she promised (in return) her assistance in
reducing to obedience the parts of the country which had revolted; for
the persons who were in possession of them were her
relations and subjects. She also delivered up Alinda where she herself
resided. Alexander granted her request and proclaimed her queen, after
the city was taken, but not the acropolis, which was doubly fortified.
He assigned to Ada the siege of the acropolis, which was taken in a
short time afterwards, the besiegers having attacked it with fury and
exasperation at the resistance of the besieged.
18. Next is Termerium,163 a promontory of the Myndians, opposite to
which lies Scandaria, a promontory of Cos, distant 40 stadia from the
continent. There is also above the promontory a fortress, Termerum.
19. The city of the Coans was formerly called Astypalæa, and was built
in another place, but is at present on the sea-coast. Afterwards, on
account of a sedition, they migrated to the present city, near
Scandarium, and changed the name to that of the island, Cos. The city is
not large, but beautifully built, and a most pleasing sight to mariners
who are sailing by the coast. The island is about 550 stadia in
circumference. The whole of it is fertile, and produces, like Chios and
Lesbos, excellent wine. It has, towards the south, the promontory
Laceter,164 from which to Nicyrus is 60 stadia, and near Laceter is
Halisarna, a stronghold; on the west is Drecanum, and a village called
Stomalimne. Drecanum is distant about 200 stadia from the city. The
promontory Laceter adds to the length of the navigation 35 stadia. In
the suburb is the celebrated temple Asclepieium, full of votive
offerings, among which is the Antigonus of Apelles. It formerly
contained the Venus Anadyomene, (Venus emerging from the sea,) but that
is now at Rome, dedicated to divus Cæsar by Augustus, who consecrated to
his father the picture of her who was the author of his family. It is
said that the Coans obtained, as a compensation for the loss of this
painting, an abatement, amounting to a hundred talents, of their usual
tribute.
It is said, that Hippocrates learned and practised the dietetic part of
medicine from the narrative of cures suspended in the temple. He is one
of the illustrious natives of Cos. Simus, also, the physician, Philetas
the poet and critic, Nicias of our time, who was tyrant of Cos; Ariston,
the disciple and heir of Ariston the Peripatetic philosopher; and
Theomnestus, a minstrel of name, who was of the opposite political party
to Nicias.
20. On the coast of the continent opposite to the Myndian territory is
Astypalæa a promontory, and Zephyrium. The city Myndus follows
immediately after, which has a harbour; then the city Bargylia. In the
intervening distance is Caryanda165 a harbour, and an island of the
same name, occupied by Caryandians. Scylax the ancient historian was a
native of this island. Near Bargylia is the temple of Artemis Cindyas,
round which the rain falls, it is believed, without touching it. There
was once a strong place called Cindya.
Among the distinguished natives of Bargylia was Protarchus the
Epicurean; Demetrius surnamed Lacon was his disciple.
21. Next follows Iasus, situated upon an island,166 on the side
towards the continent. It has a port, and the inhabitants derive the
greatest part of their subsistence from the sea, which abounds with
fish, but the soil is very barren. Stories of the following kind are
related of Iasus.
As a player on the cithara was displaying his art in public, every one
listened to him attentively till the market bell rung for the sale of
fish, when he was deserted by all except one man, who was quite deaf.
The minstrel coming up to him said, “Friend, I am much obliged to you
for the honour you have done me, and I admire your love of music, for
all the others have left me at the sound of the bell.”—“What say you,
has the bell rung?”—“Yes, he replied?”—“Good bye to you,” said the man,
and away he also went.
Diodorus the Dialectician was a native of this place. He was surnamed
Cronus (or Old Time); the title was not properly his from the first; it
was his master Apollonius who (in the first instance) had received the
surname of Cronus, but it was transferred to Diodorus on account of the
want of celebrity in the true Cronus.
22. Next to Iasus is Cape Poseidium167 of the Milesians. In the
interior are three considerable cities, Mylasa,168 Stratoniceia,169
and Alabanda.170 The others are guard forts to these or to the
maritime towns, as Amyzon, Heracleia, Euromus, Chalcetor. But we make
little account of these.
23. Mylasa is situated in a very fertile plain; a mountain, containing a
very beautiful marble quarry, overhangs the city; and it is no small
advantage to have stone for building in abundance and near
at hand, particularly for the construction of temples and other public
edifices; consequently, no city is embellished more beautifully than
this with portico and temples. It is a subject of surprise, however,
that persons should be guilty of the absurdity of building the city at
the foot of a perpendicular and lofty precipice. One of the governors of
the province is reported to have said, when he expressed his
astonishment at this circumstance, “If the founder of the city had no
fear, he had no shame.”
The Mylasians have two temples, one of Jupiter called Osogo, and another
of Jupiter Labrandenus. The former is in the city. Labranda is a village
on the mountain, near the passage across it from Alabanda to Mylasa, at
a distance from the city. At Labranda is an ancient temple of Jupiter,
and a statue of Jupiter Stratius, who is worshipped by the neighbouring
people and by the inhabitants of Mylasa. There is a paved road for a
distance of about 60 stadia from the temple to the city; it is called
the Sacred Way, along which the sacred things are carried in procession.
The most distinguished citizens are always the priests, and hold office
during life. These temples belong peculiarly to the city. There is a
third temple of the Carian Jupiter, common to all the Carians, in the
use of which the Lydians, also, and Mysians participate, as being
brethren.
Mylasa is said to have been anciently a village, but the native place
and royal residence of Hecatomnus and the Carians. The city approaches
nearest to the sea at Physcus, which is their naval arsenal.
24. Mylasa has produced in our time illustrious men, who were at once
orators and demagogues, Euthydemus and Hybreas. Euthydemus inherited
from his ancestors great wealth and reputation. He possessed commanding
eloquence, and was regarded as a person of eminence, not only in his own
country, but was thought worthy of the highest honours even in Asia. The
father of Hybreas, as he used to relate the circumstance in his school,
and as it was confirmed by his fellow-citizens, left him a mule which
carried wood, and a mule driver. He was maintained for a short time by
their labour, and was enabled to attend the lectures of Diotrephes of
Antioch. On his return he held the office of superintendent of the
market. But here being harassed, and gaining but little profit, he
applied himself to the affairs of the state, and to attend to the
business of the forum. He quickly advanced himself and became an object
of admiration, even during the lifetime of Euthydemus, and still more
after his death, as the leading person in the city. Euthydemus possessed
great power, and used it for the benefit of the city, so that if some of
his acts were rather tyrannical, this character was lost in their public
utility.
The saying of Hybreas, at the conclusion of an harangue to the people,
is applauded: “Euthydemus, you are an evil necessary to the city; for we
can live neither with thee nor without thee.”171
Hybreas, although he had acquired great power, and had the reputation of
being both a good citizen and an excellent orator, was defeated in his
political opposition to Labienus. For the citizens, unarmed, and
disposed to peace, surrendered to Labienus, who attacked them with a
body of troops and with Parthian auxiliaries, the Parthians being at
that time masters of Asia. But Zeno of Laodiceia and Hybreas, both of
them orators, did not surrender, but caused their own cities to revolt.
Hybreas provoked Labienus, an irritable and vain young man, by saying,
when the youth announced himself emperor of the Parthians, “Then I shall
call myself emperor of the Carians.” Upon this Labienus marched against
the city, having with him cohorts drafted from the Roman soldiery
stationed in Asia. He did not however take Hybreas prisoner, who had
retreated to Rhodes, but plundered and destroyed his house, which
contained costly furniture, and treated the whole city in the same
manner. After Labienus had left Asia, Hybreas returned, and restored his
own affairs and those of the city to their former state.
This then on the subject of Mylasa.
25. Stratoniceia is a colony of Macedonians. It was embellished by the
kings with costly edifices. In the district of the Stratoniceians are
two temples. The most celebrated, that of Hecate, is at Lagina, where
every year great multitudes assemble at a great festival. Near the city
is the temple of Jupiter Chrysaoreus,172 which is common to all the
Carians, and whither they repair to offer sacrifice, and to deliberate
on their common interests. They call this meeting the Chrysaoreon,
[Cas. 660] which is composed of villages. Those who represent the
greatest number of villages have the precedency in voting, like the
Ceramiētæ. The Stratoniceians, although they are not of Carian race,
have a place in this assembly, because they possess villages included in
the Chrysaoric body.
In the time of our ancestors there flourished at Stratoniceia a
distinguished person, Menippus the orator, surnamed Catocas, whom
Cicero173 commends in one of his writings above all the Asiatic
orators whom he had heard, comparing him to Xenocles, and to those who
flourished at that time.
There is another Stratoniceia, called Stratoniceia at the Taurus, a
small town adjacent to the mountain.
26. Alabanda lies at the foot of two eminences, in such a manner as to
present the appearance of an ass with panniers. On this account
Apollonius Malacus ridicules the city, and also because it abounds with
scorpions; he says, it was an ass, with panniers full of scorpions.
This city and Mylasa, and the whole mountainous tract between them,
swarm with these reptiles.
The inhabitants of Alabanda are addicted to luxury and debauchery. It
contains a great number of singing girls.
Natives of Alabanda, distinguished persons, were two orators, brothers,
Menecles, whom we mentioned a little above, and Hierocles, Apollonius,
and Molo; the two latter afterwards went to Rhodes.
27. Among the various accounts which are circulated respecting the
Carians, the most generally received is that the Carians, then called
Leleges, were governed by Minos, and occupied the islands. Then removing
to the continent, they obtained possession of a large tract of sea-coast
and of the interior, by driving out the former occupiers, who were, for
the most part, Leleges and Pelasgi. The Greeks again, Ionians and
Dorians, deprived the Carians of a portion of the country.
As proofs of their eager pursuit of war, the handles of shields, badges,
and crests, all of which are called Carian, are alleged. Anacreon says,
“Come, grasp the well-made Caric handles;”
and Alcæus—
“Shaking a Carian crest.”
28. But when Homer uses these expressions, “Masthles commanded the
Carians, who speak a barbarous language,”174 it does not appear why,
when he was acquainted with so many barbarous nations, he mentions the
Carians alone as using a barbarous language, but does not call any
people Barbarians. Nor is Thucydides right, who says that none were
called Barbarians, because as yet the Greeks were not distinguished by
any one name as opposed to some other. But Homer himself refutes this
position that the Greeks were not distinguished by this name:
“A man whose fame has spread through Greece and Argos;”
175
and in another place—
“But if you wish to go through Hellas and the middle of Argos.”
176
But if there was no such term as Barbarian, how could he properly speak
of people as Barbarophonoi (i. e. speaking a barbarous language)?
Neither is Thucydides nor Apollonius the grammarian right, because the
Greeks, and particularly the Ionians, applied to the Carians a common
term in a peculiar and vituperative sense, in consequence of their
hatred of them for their animosity and continual hostile incursions.
Under these circumstances he might call them Barbarians. But we ask, why
does he call them Barbarophonoi, but not once Barbarians? Because,
replies Apollonius, the plural number does not fall in with the metre;
this is the reason why Homer does not call them Barbarians. Admitting
then that the genitive case (βαρβάρων) does not fall
in with the measure of the verse, the nominative case (βάρβαροι)
does not differ from that of Dardani (Δάρδανοι);
“Trojans, Lycians, and Dardani;”
and of the same kind is the word Troïi177 in this verse,
“Like the Troïi horses” (Τρώιοι ἵπποι).
Nor is the reason to be found in the alleged excessive harshness of the
Carian language, for it is not extremely harsh; and besides, according
to Philippus, the author of a history of Caria, their language contains
a very large mixture of Greek words.
[Cas. 661] I suppose that the word “barbarian” was at first invented to
designate a mode of pronunciation which was embarrassed, harsh, and
rough; as we use the words battarizein, traulizein, psellizein,178 to
express the same thing. For we are naturally very much disposed to
denote certain sounds by names expressive of those sounds, and
characteristic of their nature; and hence invented terms abound,
expressive of the sounds which they designate, as kelaryzein, clange,
psophos, boe, krotos,179 most of which words are at present used in an
appropriate sense.
As those who pronounce their words with a thick enunciation are called
Barbarians, so foreigners, I mean those who were not Greeks, were
observed to pronounce their words in this manner. The term Barbarians
was therefore applied peculiarly to these people, at first by way of
reproach, as having a thick and harsh enunciation; afterwards the term
was used improperly, and applied as a common gentile term in
contradistinction to the Greeks. For after a long intimacy and
intercourse had subsisted with the Barbarians, it no longer appeared
that this peculiarity arose from any thickness of enunciation, or a
natural defect in the organs of the voice, but from the peculiarities of
their languages.
But there was in our language a bad and what might be called a barbarous
utterance, as when any person speaking Greek should not pronounce it
correctly, but should pronounce the words like the Barbarians, who, when
beginning to learn the Greek language, are not able to pronounce it
perfectly, as neither are we able to pronounce perfectly their
languages.
This was peculiarly the case with the Carians. For other nations had not
much intercourse with the Greeks, nor were disposed to adopt the Grecian
manner of life, nor to learn our language, with the exception of persons
who by accident and singly had associated with a few Greeks; but the
Carians were dispersed over the whole of Greece, as mercenary soldiers.
Then the barbarous pronunciation was frequently met with among them,
from their military expeditions into Greece; and afterwards it spread
much more, from the time that they occupied the islands together with
the Greeks: not even when driven thence into Asia, could they live
apart from Greeks, when the Ionians and Dorians arrived there.
Hence arose the expression, “to barbarize,” for we are accustomed to
apply this term to those whose pronunciation of the Greek language is
vicious, and not to those who pronounce it like the Carians.
We are then to understand the expressions, “barbarous speaking” and
“barbarous speakers,” of persons whose pronunciation of the Greek
language is faulty. The word “to barbarize” was formed after the word
“to Carize,” and transferred into the books which teach the Greek
language; thus also the word “to solœcize” was formed, derived either
from Soli or some other source.
29. Artemidorus says that the journey from Physcus, on the coast
opposite to Rhodes, towards Ephesus, as far as Lagina is 850 stadia;
thence to Alabanda 250 stadia; to Tralles 160. About halfway on the road
to Tralles the Mæander is crossed, and here are the boundaries of Caria.
The whole number of stadia from Physcus to the Mæander, along the road
to Ephesus, is 1180 stadia. Again, along the same road, from the Mæander
of Ionia to Tralles 80 stadia, to Magnesia 140 stadia, to Ephesus 120,
to Smyrna 320, to Phocæa and the boundaries of Ionia, less than 200
stadia; so that the length of Ionia in a straight line would be,
according to Artemidorus, a little more than 800 stadia.
But as there is a public frequented road by which all travellers pass on
their way from Ephesus to the east, Artemidorus thus describes it. [From
Ephesus] to Carura, the boundary of Caria towards Phrygia, through
Magnesia and Tralles, Nysa, Antioch, is a journey of 740 stadia. From
Carura, the first town in Phrygia, through Laodiceia, Apameia,
Metropolis, and Chelidoniæ,180 to Holmi, the beginning of the
Paroreius, a country lying at the foot of the mountains, about 920
stadia; to Tyriæum,181 the termination towards Lycaonia of the
Paroreius,182 through Philomelium183 is little more than 500 stadia.
Next is Lycaonia as far as Coropassus,184 through Laodiceia in the
Catacecaumene, 840 stadia; from Coropassus [Cas. 662] in Lycaonia to
Garsaüra,185 a small city of Cappadocia, situated on its borders, 120
stadia; thence to Mazaca,186 the metropolis of the Cappadocians,
through Soandus and Sadacora, 680 stadia; thence to the Euphrates, as
far as Tomisa, a stronghold in Sophene, through Herphæ,187 a small
town, 1440 stadia.
The places in a straight line with these, as far as India, are described
in the same manner by Artemidorus and Eratosthenes. Polybius says, that
with respect to those places we ought chiefly to depend upon
Artemidorus. He begins from Samosata in Commagene, which is situated at
the passage, and the Zeugma of the Euphrates, to Samosata across the
Taurus, from the mountains of Cappadocia about Tomisa, he says is a
distance of 450 stadia.
1. After the part of the coast opposite188 to Rhodes, the boundary of
which is Dædala, in sailing thence towards the east, we come to Lycia,
which extends to Pamphylia; next is Pamphylia, extending as far as
Cilicia Tracheia, which reaches as far as the Cilicians, situated about
the Bay of Issus. These are parts of the peninsula, the isthmus of which
we said was the road from Issus as far as Amisus,189 or, according to
some authors, to Sinope.
The country beyond the Taurus consists of the narrow line of sea-coast
extending from Lycia to the places about Soli, the present Pompeiopolis.
Then the sea-coast near the Bay of Issus, beginning from Soli and
Tarsus, spreads out into plains.
The description of this coast will complete the account of the whole
peninsula. We shall then pass to the rest of Asia without the Taurus,
and lastly we shall describe Africa.
2. After Dædala of the Rhodians there is a mountain of Lycia, of the
same name, Dædala, and here the whole Lycian coast begins, and extends
1720 stadia. This maritime tract is rugged, and difficult to be
approached, but has very good harbours, and is inhabited by a people who
are not inclined to acts of violence. The country is similar in nature
to that of Pamphylia and Cilicia Tracheia. But the former used the
places of shelter for vessels for piratical purposes themselves, or
afforded to pirates a market for their plunder and stations for their
vessels.
At Side,190 a city of Pamphylia, the Cilicians had places for building
ships. They sold their prisoners, whom they admitted were freemen, by
notice through the public crier.
But the Lycians continued to live as good citizens, and with so much
restraint upon themselves, that although the Pamphylians had succeeded
in obtaining the sovereignty of the sea as far as Italy, yet they were
never influenced by the desire of base gain, and persevered in
administering the affairs of the state according to the laws of the
Lycian body.
3. There are three and twenty cities in this body, which have votes.
They assemble from each city at a general congress, and select what city
they please for their place of meeting. Each of the largest cities
commands three votes, those of intermediate importance two, and the rest
one vote. They contribute in the same proportion to taxes and other
public charges. The six largest cities, according to Artemidorus, are
Xanthus,191 Patara,192 Pinara,193 Olympus, Myra, Tlos,194 which
is situated at the pass of the mountain leading to Cibyra.
At the congress a lyciarch is first elected, then the other officers of
the body. Public tribunals are also appointed for [Cas. 665] the
administration of justice. Formerly they deliberated about war and
peace, and alliances, but this is not now permitted, as these things are
under the control of the Romans. It is only done by their consent, or
when it may be for their own advantage.
Thus judges and magistrates are elected according to the proportion of
the number of votes belonging to each city.195 It was the fortune of
these people, who lived under such an excellent government, to retain
their liberty under the Romans, and the laws and institutions of their
ancestors; to see also the entire extirpation of the pirates, first by
Servilius Isauricus, at the time that he demolished Isaura, and
afterwards by Pompey the Great, who burnt more than 1300 vessels, and
destroyed their haunts and retreats. Of the survivors in these contests
he transferred some to Soli, which he called Pompeiopolis; others to
Dyme, which had a deficient population, and is now occupied by a Roman
colony.
The poets, however, particularly the tragic poets, confound nations
together; for instance, Trojans, Mysians, and Lydians, whom they call
Phrygians, and give the name of Lycians to Carians.
4. After Dædala is a Lycian mountain, and near it is Telmessus,196 a
small town of the Lycians, and Telmessis, a promontory with a harbour.
Eumenes took this place from the Romans in the war with Antiochus, but
after the dissolution of the kingdom of Pergamus, the Lycians recovered
it again.
5. Then follows Anticragus, a precipitous mountain, on which is
Carmylessus,197 a fortress situated in a gorge; next is Mount Cragus,
with eight peaks,198 and a city of the same name. The neighbourhood of
these mountains is the scene of the fable of the Chimæra; and at no
great distance is Chimæra, a sort of ravine, extending upwards from the
shore. Below the Cragus in the interior is Pinara, which is one of the
largest cities of Lycia. Here Pandarus is worshipped, of the same name
perhaps as the Trojan Pandarus;
“thus the pale nightingale, daughter of Pandarus;”
199
for this Pandarus, it is said, came from Lycia.
6. Next is the river Xanthus, formerly called Sirbis.200 In sailing up
it in vessels which ply as tenders, to the distance of 10 stadia, we
come to the Letoum, and proceeding 60 stadia beyond the temple, we find
the city of the Xanthians, the largest in Lycia. After the Xanthus
follows Patara, which is also a large city with a harbour, and
containing a temple of Apollo. Its founder was Patarus. When Ptolemy
Philadelphus repaired it, he called it the Lycian Arsinoë, but the old
name prevailed.
7. Next is Myra, at the distance of 20 stadia from the sea, situated
upon a lofty hill; then the mouth of the river Limyrus, and on ascending
from it by land 20 stadia, we come to the small town Limyra. In the
intervening distance along the coast above mentioned are many small
islands and harbours. The most considerable of the islands is Cisthene,
on which is a city of the same name.201 In the interior are the
strongholds Phellus, Antiphellus, and Chimæra, which I mentioned above.
8. Then follow the Sacred Promontory202 and the Chelidoniæ, three
rocky islands, equal in size, and distant from each other about 5, and
from the land 6 stadia. One of them has an anchorage for vessels.
According to the opinion of many writers, the Taurus begins here,
because the summit is lofty, and extends from the Pisidian mountains
situated above Pamphylia, and because the islands lying in front exhibit
a remarkable figure in the sea, like a skirt of a mountain.
But in fact the mountainous chain is continued from the country opposite
Rhodes to the parts near Pisidia, and this range of mountains is called
Taurus.
The Chelidoniæ islands seem to be situated in a manner opposite to
Canopus,203 and the passage across is said to be 4000 stadia.
From the Sacred Promontory to Olbia204 there remain 367 stadia. In
this distance are Crambusa,205 and Olympus206 a large city, and a
mountain of the same name, which is called also Phœnicus;207 then
follows Corycus, a tract of sea-coast.
9. Then follows Phaselis,208 a considerable city, with three harbours
and a lake. Above it is the mountain Solyma209 and Termessus,210 a
Pisidic city, situated on the defiles, through which there is a pass
over the mountain to Milyas. Alexander demolished it, with the intention
of opening the defiles.
About Phaselis, near the sea, are narrow passes through which Alexander
conducted his army. There is a mountain called Climax. It overhangs the
sea of Pamphylia, leaving a narrow road along the coast, which in calm
weather is not covered with water, and travellers can pass along it, but
when the sea is rough, it is in a great measure hidden by the waves. The
pass over the mountains is circuitous and steep, but in fair weather
persons travel on the road along the shore. Alexander came there when
there was a storm, and trusting generally to fortune, set out before the
sea had receded, and the soldiers marched during the whole day up to the
middle of the body in water.
Phaselis also is a Lycian city, situated on the confines of Pamphylia.
It is not a part of the Lycian body, but is an independent city.
10. The poet distinguishes the Solymi from the Lycians, when he
despatches Bellerophon by the king of the Lycians to this second
adventure;
“he encountered the brave Solymi;”
211
other writers say that the Lycians were formerly called Solymi, and
afterwards Termilæ, from the colonists that accompanied Sarpedon from
Crete; and afterwards Lycians, from Lycus the son of Pandion, who, after
having been banished from his own country, was admitted by Sarpedon to a
share in the government; but their story does not agree with Homer. We
prefer the opinion of those who say that the poet called the people
Solymi who have now the name of Milyæ, and whom we have mentioned
before.
1. After Phaselis is Olbia; here Pamphylia begins. It is a large
fortress. It is followed by the Cataractes,212 as it is called, a
river which descends violently from a lofty rock, with a great body of
water, like a winter torrent, so that the noise of it is heard at a
great distance.
Next is Attaleia,213 a city, so called from its founder Attalus
Philadelphus, who also settled another colony at Corycus, a small city
near Attaleia, by introducing other inhabitants, and extending the
circuit of the walls.
It is said, that between Phaselis and Attaleia, Thebe and Lyrnessus214
are shown; for, according to Callisthenes, a part of the Trojan
Cilicians were driven from the plain of Thebe into Pamphylia.
2. Next is the river Cestrus;215 on sailing up its stream 60 stadia we
find the city Perge,216 and near it upon an elevated place, the temple
of the Pergæan Artemis, where a general festival is celebrated every
year.
Then at the distance of about 40 stadia from the sea is [Syllium],217
on an elevated site, and visible at Perge. Next is Capria, a lake of
considerable extent; then the river Eurymedon;218 sailing up it to the
distance of 60 stadia, we come to Aspendus,219 a well-peopled city,
founded by Argives. Above it is Petnelissus;220 then another river,
and many small islands lying in front; then Side, a colony
of the Cymæans, where there is a temple of Minerva. Near it is the coast
of the Little Cibyratæ; then the river Melas,221 and an anchorage for
vessels; then Ptolemais222 a city; next the borders of Pamphylia, and
Coracesium,223 where Cilicia Tracheia begins. The whole of the voyage
along the coast of Pamphylia is 640 stadia.
3. Herodotus says,224 that the Pamphylians are descendants of the
people who accompanied Amphilochus and Calchas from Troy, a mixture of
various nations. The majority of them settled here, others were
dispersed over different countries. Callinus says that Calchas died at
Clarus, but that some of the people who, together with Mopsus, crossed
the Taurus, remained in Pamphylia, and that others were scattered in
Cilicia and Syria, and as far even as Phœnicia.
1. Of Cilicia without the Taurus one part is called Cilicia Tracheia,
the rugged; the other, Cilicia Pedias, the flat or plain country.
The coast of the Tracheia is narrow, and either has no level ground or
it rarely occurs; besides this, the Taurus overhangs it, which is badly
inhabited as far even as the northern side, about Isaura and the
Homonadeis as far as Pisidia. This tract has the name of Tracheiotis,
and the inhabitants that of Tracheiotæ. The flat or plain country
extends from Soli and Tarsus as far as Issus, and the parts above, where
the Cappadocians are situated on the northern side of the Taurus. This
tract consists chiefly of fertile plains.
I have already spoken of the parts within the Taurus; I shall now
describe those without the Taurus, beginning with the Tracheiotæ.
2. The first place is Coracesium,225 a fortress of the Cilicians,
situated upon an abrupt rock. Diodotus surnamed Tryphon used it as a
rendezvous at the time that he caused Syria to revolt from her kings,
and carried on war against them with various success. Antiochus, the son
of Demetrius, obliged him to shut himself up in one of the fortresses,
and there he killed himself.
Tryphon was the cause of originating among the Cilicians a piratical
confederacy. They were induced also to do this by the imbecility of the
kings who succeeded each other on the thrones of Syria and Cilicia. In
consequence of his introduction of political changes, others imitated
his example, and the dissensions among brothers exposed the country to
the attacks of invaders.
The exportation of slaves was the chief cause of inducing them to commit
criminal acts, for this traffic was attended with very great profit, and
the slaves were easily taken. Delos was at no great distance, a large
and rich mart, capable of receiving and transporting, when sold, the
same day, ten thousand slaves; so that hence arose a proverbial saying,
“Merchant, come into port, discharge your freight—everything
is sold.”
The Romans, having acquired wealth after the destruction of Carthage and
Corinth, employed great numbers of domestic slaves, and were the cause
of this traffic. The pirates, observing the facility with which slaves
could be procured, issued forth in numbers from all quarters, committing
robbery and dealing in slaves.
The kings of Cyprus and of Egypt, who were enemies of the Syrians,
favoured their marauding enterprises; the Rhodians were no less hostile
to the Syrians, and therefore afforded the latter no protection. The
pirates, therefore, under the pretence of trading in slaves, continued
without intermission their invasions and robbery.
The Romans paid little attention to the places situated without the
Taurus; they sent, however, Scipio Æmilianus, and afterwards some
others, to examine the people and the cities. They discovered that the
evils arose from negligence on the part of the sovereigns, but they were
reluctant to deprive the family of Seleucus Nicator of the succession,
in which he had been confirmed by themselves.
For the same reason the Parthians, who occupied the parts
beyond the Euphrates, became masters of the country; and lastly the
Armenians, who also gained possession of the country without the Taurus
as far as Phœnicia. They used their utmost to extirpate the power of the
kings and all their descendants, but surrendered the command of the sea
to the Cilicians.
The Romans were subsequently compelled to reduce the Cilicians, after
their aggrandizement, by war and expeditions, whose progress, however,
and advancement they had not obstructed; yet it would be improper to
accuse the Romans of neglect, because, being engaged with concerns
nearer at hand, they were unable to direct their attention to more
distant objects.
I thought proper to make these remarks in a short digression from my
subject.
3. Next to the Coracesium is the city Syedra;226 then Hamaxia,227 a
small town upon a hill, with a harbour, to which is brought down timber
for ship-building; the greatest part of it consists of cedar. This
country seems to produce this tree in abundance. It was on this account
that Antony assigned it to Cleopatra, as being capable of furnishing
materials for the construction of her fleet.
Then follows Laertes a fortress, situated upon the crest of a hill, of a
pap-like form; a port belongs to it; next, the city Selinus,228 then
Cragus, a precipitous rock on the sea-coast; then Charadrus229 a
fortress, which has a port (above it is the mountain Andriclus230) and
a rocky shore, called Platanistus, next Anemurium231 a promontory,
where the continent approaches nearest to Cyprus, towards the promontory
Crommyum,232 the passage across being 350 stadia.
From the boundaries of Pamphylia to Anemurium, the voyage along the
Cilician coast is 820 stadia; the remainder of it as far as Soli233 is
about 500 stadia (1500?). On this coast, after Anemurium, the first city
is Nagidus, then Arsinoë,234 with a small port; then a place called
Melania,235 and Celenderis236 a city, with a harbour.
Some writers,237 among whom is Artemidorus, consider this place as
the commencement of Cilicia, and not Coracesium. He says, that from the
Pelusiac mouth to Orthosia are 3900 stadia, and to the river
Orontes238 1130 stadia; then to the gates of Cilicia 525 stadia, and
to the borders of Cilicia 1260 stadia.239
4. Next is Holmi,240 formerly inhabited by the present Seleucians; but
when Seleucia on the Calycadnus was built, they removed there. On
doubling the coast, which forms a promontory called Sarpedon,241 we
immediately come to the mouth of the Calycadnus.242 Zephyrium243 a
promontory is near the Calycadnus. The river may be ascended as far as
Seleucia, a city well peopled, and the manners of whose inhabitants are
very different from those of the people of Cilicia and Pamphylia.
In our time there flourished at that place remarkable persons of the
Peripatetic sect of philosophers, Athenæus and Xenarchus. The former was
engaged in the administration of the affairs of state in his own
country, and for some time espoused the party of the people; he
afterwards contracted a friendship with Murena, with whom he fled, and
with whom he was captured, on the discovery of the conspiracy against
Augustus Cæsar; but he established his innocence, and was set at liberty
by Cæsar. When he returned from Rome, he addressed the first persons who
saluted him, and made their inquiries, in the words of Euripides—
“I come from the coverts of the dead, and the gates of
darkness.”
244
He survived his return but a short time, being killed by the fall,
during the night, of the house in which he lived.
Xenarchus, whose lectures I myself attended, did not long remain at
home, but taught philosophy at Alexandreia, Athens, and Rome. He enjoyed
the friendship of Areius, and afterwards of Augustus Cæsar; he lived to
old age, honoured and respected. Shortly before his death he lost his
sight, and died a natural death.
5. After the Calycadnus, is the rock called Pœcile,245,
which has steps, like those of a ladder, cut in the rock, on the road to
Seleucia. Then follows the promontory Anemurium,246 of the same name
with the former, Crambusa an island, and then Corycus247 a promontory,
above which, at the distance of 20 stadia, is the Corycian cave, where
grows the best saffron. It is a large valley of a circular form,
surrounded by a ridge of rock, of considerable height all round. Upon
descending into it, the bottom is irregular, and a great part of it
rocky, but abounding with shrubs of the evergreen and cultivated kind.
There are interspersed spots which produce the saffron. There is also a
cave in which rises a river of pure and transparent water. Immediately
at its source the river buries itself in the ground, and continues its
subterraneous course till it discharges itself into the sea. The name of
(Pikron Hydor) “bitter water” is given to it.
6. After Corycus, is the island Elæussa,248 lying very near the
continent. Here Archelaus resided, and built a palace, after having
become master of the whole of Cilicia Tracheiotis, except Seleucia, as
Augustus had been before, and as at a still earlier period it was held
by Cleopatra. For as the country was well adapted by nature for robbery
both by sea and land, (by land, on account of the extent of the
mountains, and the nations situated beyond them, who occupy plains, and
large tracts of cultivated country easy to be overrun; by sea, on
account of the supply of timber for ship-building, the harbours,
fortresses, and places of retreat,) for all these reasons the Romans
thought it preferable that the country should be under the government of
kings, than be subject to Roman governors sent to administer justice,
but who would not always be on the spot, nor attended by an army. In
this manner Archelaus obtained possession of Cilicia Tracheia, in
addition to Cappadocia. Its boundaries between Soli and Elæussa are the
river Lamus,249 and a village of the same name.250
7. At the extremity of the Taurus is Olympus a mountain,251 the
piratical hold of Zenicetus, and a fortress of the same name. It
commands a view of the whole of Lycia, Pamphylia, and Pisidia. When the
mountain was taken by (Servilius) Isauricus, Zenicetus burnt himself,
with all his household. To this robber belonged Corycus, Phaselis, and
many strongholds in Pamphylia, all of which were taken by (Servilius)
Isauricus.
8. Next to Lamus is Soli,252 a considerable city, where the other
Cilicia, that about Issus, commences. It was founded by Achæans, and by
Rhodians from Lindus. Pompey the Great transferred to this city, which
had a scanty population, the survivors of the pirates, whom he thought
most entitled to protection and clemency, and changed its name to
Pompeiopolis.
Chrysippus the Stoic philosopher, the son of an inhabitant of Tarsus,
who left it to live at Soli; Philemon the comic poet; and Aratus, who
composed a poem called “the Phænomena,” were among the illustrious
natives of this place.
9. Next follows Zephyrium,253 of the same name as that near
Calycadnus; then Anchiale, a little above the sea, built by
Sardanapalus, according to Aristobulus. (According to the same author)
the tomb of Sardanapalus is here, and a stone figure representing him
with the fingers of his right hand brought together as in the act of
snapping them, and the following inscription in Assyrian letters:
“SARDANAPALUS, THE SON OF ANACYNDARAXES, BUILT ANCHIALE AND TARSUS IN
ONE DAY. EAT, DRINK, BE MERRY; EVERYTHING ELSE IS NOT WORTH254 THAT”—the
snapping of the fingers.
Chœrilus mentions this inscription, and the following lines are
everywhere known:
“Meat and drink, wanton jests, and the delights of love, these
I have enjoyed; but my great wealth I have left behind.”254
10. Above Anchiale is situated Cyinda a fortress, where the Macedonian
kings formerly kept their treasure. Eumenes, when he revolted from
Antigonus, took it away. Further above this place and Soli, is a
mountainous tract, where is situated Olbe a city, which has a temple of
Jupiter, founded by Ajax, son of Teucer. The priest of this temple was
master of the Tracheiotis. Subsequently many tyrants seized
upon the country, and it became the retreat of robbers. After their
extermination, the country was called, even to our times, the dominion
of Teucer; and the priesthood, the priesthood of Teucer; indeed, most of
the priests had the name of Teucer, or of Ajax. Aba, the daughter of
Xenophanes, one of the tyrants, entered into this family by marriage,
and obtained possession of the government. Her father had previously
administered it as guardian, but Antony and Cleopatra afterwards
conferred it upon Aba, as a favour, being ultimately prevailed upon to
do so by her entreaties and attentions. She was afterwards dispossessed,
but the government remained in the hands of the descendants of her
family.
Next to Anchiale are the mouths of the Cydnus255 at the Rhegma, (the
Rent,) as it is called. It is a place like a lake, and has ancient
dockyards; here the Cydnus discharges itself, after flowing through the
middle of Tarsus. It rises in the Taurus, which overhangs the city. The
lake is a naval arsenal of Tarsus.
11. The whole of the sea-coast, beginning from the part opposite to
Rhodes, extends to this place in the direction from the western to the
eastern point of the equinoctial. It then turns towards the winter
solstice, as far as Issus, and thence immediately makes a bend to the
south to Phœnicia. The remainder towards the west terminates at the
pillars (of Hercules).256
The actual isthmus of the peninsula, which we have described, is that
which extends from Tarsus and the mouth of the Cydnus as far as Amisus,
for this is the shortest distance from Amisus to the boundaries of
Cilicia; from these to Tarsus are 120 stadia, and not more from Tarsus
to the mouth of the Cydnus. To Issus, and the sea near it, there is no
shorter road from Amisus than that leading through Tarsus, nor from
Tarsus to Issus is there any nearer than that leading to Cydnus; so that
it is clear, that, in reality, this is the isthmus. Yet it is pretended
that the isthmus extending as far as the
Bay of Issus is the true isthmus, on account of its presenting
remarkable points.
Hence, not aiming at exactness, we say that the line drawn from the
country opposite to Rhodes, which we protracted as far as Cydnus, is the
same as that extending as far as Issus, and that the Taurus extends in a
straight direction with this line as far as India.
12. Tarsus is situated in a plain. It was founded by Argives, who
accompanied Triptolemus in his search after Io. The Cydnus flows through
the middle of it, close by the gymnasium of the young men. As the source
is not far distant, and the stream passing through a deep valley, then
flows immediately into the city, the water is cold and rapid in its
course; hence it is of advantage to men and beasts affected with
swellings of the sinews, fluxions, and gout.257
13. The inhabitants of this city apply to the study of philosophy and to
the whole encyclical compass of learning with so much ardour, that they
surpass Athens, Alexandreia, and every other place which can be named
where there are schools and lectures of philosophers.
It differs however so far from other places, that the studious are all
natives, and strangers are not inclined to resort thither. Even the
natives themselves do not remain, but travel abroad to complete their
studies, and having completed them reside in foreign countries. Few of
them return.
The contrary is the case in the other cities which I have mentioned,
except Alexandreia; for multitudes repair to them, and reside there with
pleasure; but you would observe that few of the natives travel abroad
from a love of learning, or show much zeal in the pursuit of it on the
spot. But both these things are to be seen at Alexandreia, a large
number of strangers is received, (into their schools,) and not a few of
their own countrymen are sent out to foreign countries (to study). They
have schools of all kinds, for instruction in the liberal arts. In other
respects Tarsus is well peopled, extremely powerful, and has the
character of being the capital.258
14. The Stoic philosophers Antipater, Archedemus, and Nestor
were natives of Tarsus: and besides these, the two Athenodori, one of
whom, Cordylion, lived with Marcus Cato, and died at his house; the
other, the son of Sandon, called Cananites, from some village, was the
preceptor of Cæsar,259 who conferred on him great honours. In his old
age he returned to his native country, where he dissolved the form of
government existing there, which was unjustly administered by various
persons, and among them by Boëthus, a bad poet and a bad citizen, who
had acquired great power by courting the favour of the people. Antony
contributed to increase his importance by having in the first instance
commended a poem which he had composed on the victory at Philippi; his
influence was still augmented by the facility which he possessed (and it
is very general among the inhabitants of Tarsus) of discoursing at great
length, and without preparation, upon any given subject. Antony also had
promised the people of Tarsus to establish a gymnasium; he appointed
Boëthus chief director of it, and intrusted to him the expenditure of
the funds. He was detected in secreting, among other things, even the
oil, and when charged with this offence by his accusers in the presence
of Antony, he deprecated his anger by this, among other remarks in his
speech, that as Homer had sung the praises of “Achilles, Agamemnon, and
Ulysses, so have I sung yours. I therefore ought not to be brought
before you on such a charge.” The accuser answered, “Homer did not steal
oil from Agamemnon260 nor Achilles; but you have stolen it from the
gymnasium, and therefore you shall be punished.” Yet he contrived to
avert the displeasure of Antony by courteous offices, and continued to
plunder the city until the death of his protector.
Athenodorus found the city in this state, and for some time attempted to
control Boëthus and his accomplices by argument; but finding that they
continued to commit all kinds of injustice, he exerted the power given
to him by Cæsar, condemned them to banishment, and expelled them. They
had previously caused to be written upon the walls, “Action for the
young, counsel for the middle-aged, discharging wind for the old;” but
Athenodorus, accepting it as a jest, gave orders to inscribe by the side
of it, “Thunder for the old.” Some one, however, in contempt for his
good manners, having a lax state of body, bespattered the gate and wall
of his house as he passed by it at night. Athenodorus, in an assembly of
the people, accusing persons of being factiously disposed, said, “We may
perceive the sickly condition of the city, and its bad habit of body,
from many circumstances, but particularly from its discharges.”
Those men were Stoics, but Nestor, of our time, the tutor of Marcellus,
son of Octavia, the sister of Cæsar, was of the Academic sect. He was
also at the head of the government, having succeeded Athenodorus, and
continued to be honoured both by the Roman governors and by the
citizens.
15. Among the other philosophers,
“Those whom I know, and could in order name,”
261
were Plutiades and Diogenes, who went about from city to city,
instituting schools of philosophy as the opportunity occurred. Diogenes,
as if inspired by Apollo, composed and rehearsed poems, chiefly of the
tragic kind, upon any subject that was proposed. The grammarians of
Tarsus, whose writings we have, were Artemidorus and Diodorus. But the
best writer of tragedy, among those enumerated in “The Pleiad,” was
Dionysides. Rome is best able to inform us what number of learned men
this city has produced, for it is filled with persons from Tarsus and
Alexandreia.
Such then is Tarsus.
16. After the Cydnus follows the Pyramus,262 which flows from
Cataonia. We have spoken of it before. Artemidorus says, that from
thence to Soli is a voyage in a straight line of 500 stadia. Near the
Pyramus is Mallus,263 situated upon a height; it was founded by
Amphilochus, and Mopsus, the son of Apollo, and Mantus, about whom many
fables are related. I have mentioned them in speaking of Calchas, and of
the contest between Calchas and Mopsus respecting their skill in
divination. Some persons, as Sophocles, transfer the scene of this
contest to Sicily, which, after the custom of tragic poets, they call
Pamphylia, as they call Lycia, Caria, and Troy and Lydia,
Phrygia. Sophocles, among other writers, says that Calchas died there.
According to the fable, the contest did not relate to skill in
divination only, but also to sovereignty. For it is said, that Mopsus
and Amphilochus, on their return from Troy, founded Mallus; that
Amphilochus afterwards went to Argos, and being dissatisfied with the
state of affairs there, returned to Mallus, where, being excluded from a
share in the government, he engaged with Mopsus in single combat. Both
were killed, but their sepulchres are not in sight of each other. They
are shown at present at Magarsa, near the Pyramus.
Crates the grammarian was a native of this place, and Panætius is said
to have been his disciple.
17. Above this coast is situated the Aleïan plain, over which Philotas
conducted Alexander’s cavalry, he himself leading the phalanx from Soli
along the sea-coast and the territory of Mallus to Issus, against the
forces of Darius. It is said that Alexander performed sacrifices in
honour of Amphilochus, on account of their common affinity to Argos.
Hesiod says that Amphilochus was killed by Apollo at Soli; according to
others, at the Aleïan plain; and others again say, in Syria, upon his
quitting the Aleïan plain on account of the quarrel.
18. Mallus is followed by Ægææ, a small town264 with a shelter for
vessels; then the Amanides Gates, (Gates of Amanus,265) with a shelter
for vessels. At these gates terminates the mountain Amanus,266 which
extends from the Taurus, and lies above Cilicia towards the east. It was
successively in the possession of several tyrants, who had strongholds;
but, in our time, Tarcondimotus, who was a man of merit, became master
of all; for his good conduct and bravery, he received from the Romans
the title of King, and transmitted the succession to his posterity.
19. Next to Ægææ is Issus, a small town with a shelter for vessels, and
a river, the Pinarus.267 At Issus the battle was fought between
Alexander and Darius. The bay is called the Issic Bay. The city
Rhosus268 is situated upon it, as also the city Myriandrus,
Alexandreia,269 Nicopolis, Mopsuestia,270 and the Gates,271 as
they are called, which are the boundary between Cilicia and Syria.
In Cilicia are the temple of the Sarpedonian Artemis and an oracle.
Persons possessed with divine inspiration deliver the oracles.
20. After Cilicia, the first Syrian city is Seleucia-in-Pieria;272
near it the river Orontes273 empties itself. From Seleucia to Soli is
a voyage in a straight line of nearly 1000 stadia.
21. Since the Cilicians of the Troad, whom Homer mentions, are situated
at a great distance from the Cilicians without the Taurus, some writers
declare that the leaders of the latter colony were Cilicians of the
Troad, and point to Thebe and Lyrnessus in Pamphylia, places bearing the
same name as those in the Troad; other authors are of a contrary
opinion, and (considering the Cilicians of the Troad as descendants of
those from beyond the Taurus) point to an Aleïan plain (in support of
their hypothesis).
22. Having described the parts of the before-mentioned Chersonesus
without the Taurus, I must add these particulars.
Apollodorus, in his work on the catalogue of the ships mentioned in
Homer, relates, that all the allies of the Trojans, who came from Asia,
inhabited, according to the poet, the peninsula of which at its
narrowest part is the isthmus between the innermost recess of the bay at
Sinope and Issus. The exterior sides (of this peninsula), which is of a
triangular shape, are unequal. Of these, one extends from Cilicia to
Chelidoniæ, (islands,) another thence to the mouth of the Euxine, and
the third from the mouth of the Euxine to Sinope.
The assertion that the allies were only those who occupied the peninsula
may be proved to be erroneous by the same arguments by which we before
showed that those who lived within the Halys were not the only allies.
For the places about Pharnacia, where we said the Halizoni lived, are
situated without the Halys, and also without the isthmus, for they
are without the line drawn from Sinope to Issus;274 and
not only without this line, but also without the true line of the
isthmus drawn from Amisus to Issus; for Apollodorus incorrectly
describes the isthmus and the line of its direction, substituting one
line for another (the line drawn from Sinope to Issus for the line drawn
from Amisus to Issus).
But the greatest absurdity is this, that after having said that the
peninsula was of a triangular shape, he speaks of three exterior
sides. For in speaking of exterior sides, he seems to except the line
of the isthmus itself, considering it still a side, although not an
exterior side, from its not being upon the sea. But if this line were
so shortened that the extremities of the (exterior) sides falling upon
Issus and Sinope nearly coincided, the peninsula might in that case be
said to be of a triangular shape; but as his own line (from Sinope to
Issus) is 3000 stadia in length, it would be ignorance, and not a
knowledge of chorography, to call such a four-sided figure a triangle.
Yet he published a work on Chorography, in the metre of comedy, (Iambic
metre,) entitled “The Circuit of the Earth.”
He is still liable to the same charge of ignorance, even if we should
suppose the isthmus to be contracted to its least dimensions, and follow
writers who erroneously estimate the distance at one-half of the sum,
namely 1500 stadia, to which it is reduced by Artemidorus; but even this
would not by any means reduce the thus contracted space to the figure of
a triangle.
Besides, Artemidorus has not correctly described the exterior sides; one
side, he says, extends from Issus to the Chelidoniæ islands, although
the whole Lycian coast, and the country opposite to Rhodes as far as
Physcus, lies in a straight line with, and is a continuation of it; the
continent then makes a bend at Physcus, and forms the commencement of
the second or western side, extending to the Propontis and Byzantium.
23. Ephorus had said that this peninsula was inhabited by sixteen
tribes, three of which were Grecian, and the rest barbarous, with the
exception of the mixed nations; he placed on the sea-coast Cilicians,
Pamphylians, Lycians, Bithynians, Paphlagonians, Mariandyni, Troes, and
Carians; and in the interior, Pisidians, Mysians, Chalybes, Phrygians,
and Milyæ.275 Apollodorus, when discussing this position, says there
is a seventeenth tribe, the Galatians, who are more recent than the time
of Ephorus; that of the sixteen tribes mentioned, the Greeks were not
settled (in the peninsula) at the period of the Trojan war, and that
time has produced great intermixture and confusion among the barbarous
nations. Homer, he continues, recites in his Catalogue the Troes, and
those now called Paphlagonians, Mysians, Phrygians, Carians, Lycians,
Meionians, instead of Lydians and other unknown people, as Halizoni and
Caucones; nations besides not mentioned in the Catalogue but elsewhere,
as Ceteii, Solymi, the Cilicians from the plain of Thebe, and Leleges.
But the Pamphylians, Bithynians, Mariandyni, Pisidians, and Chalybes,
Milyæ, and Cappadocians are nowhere mentioned by the poet; some because
they did not then inhabit these places, and some because they were
surrounded by other tribes, as Idrieis and Termilæ by Carians, Doliones
and Bebryces by Phrygians.
24. But Apollodorus does not seem to have carefully examined the
statements of Ephorus, for he confounds and misrepresents the words of
Homer. He ought first to have inquired of Ephorus why he placed the
Chalybes within the peninsula, who were situated at a great distance
from Sinope, and Amisus towards the east. Those who describe the isthmus
of this peninsula to be on the line drawn from Issus to the Euxine, lay
down this line as a sort of meridian line, which some suppose to pass
through Sinope, others through Amisus; but no one through the Chalybes,
for such a line would be altogether an oblique line. For the meridian
passing through the Chalybes, drawn through the Lesser Armenia, and the
Euphrates, would comprise (on the east) the whole of Cappadocia,
Commagene, Mount Amanus, and the Bay of Issus. But if we
should grant (to Ephorus) that this oblique line is the direction of the
isthmus, most of these places, Cappadocia in particular, would be
included, and (the kingdom of) Pontus, properly so called, which is a
part of Cappadocia on the Euxine; so that if we were to admit the
Chalybes to be a part of the peninsula, with more reason we ought to
admit the Cataonians, the two nations of Cappadocians, and the
Lycaonians, whom even he himself has omitted. But why has he placed in
the interior the Chalybes, whom the poet, as we have shown, calls
Halizoni? It would have been better to divide them, and to place one
portion of them on the sea-coast, and another in the inland parts. The
same division ought to be made of the Cappadocians and Cilicians. But
Ephorus does not even mention the former, and speaks only of the
Cilicians on the sea-coast. The subjects, then, of Antipater of Derbe,
the Homonadeis, and many other tribes contiguous to the Pisidians,
“men, who know not the sea, nor have ever eaten food seasoned
with salt,”276
where are they to be placed? Nor does he say whether the Lydians and the
Meonians are two nations or the same nation, or whether they live
separately by themselves or are comprehended in another tribe. For it
was impossible for Ephorus to be ignorant of so celebrated a nation, and
does he not, by passing it over in silence, appear to omit a most
important fact?
25. But who are “the mixed nations”? For we cannot say that he either
named or omitted others, besides those already mentioned, whom we should
call mixed nations. Nor, indeed, should we say that they were a part of
those nations whom he has either mentioned or omitted. For if they were
a mixed people, still the majority constituted them either Greeks or
Barbarians. We know nothing of a third mixed people.
26. But how (according to Ephorus) are there three tribes of Greeks who
inhabit the peninsula? Is it because anciently the Athenians and Ionians
were the same people? In that case the Dorians and the Æolians should be
considered as the same nation, and then there would be (only) two tribes
(and not three, inhabiting the peninsula). But if, following modern
practice, we are to distinguish nations according to dialects, there
will be four nations, as there are four dialects. But this peninsula is
inhabited, especially if we adopt the division by Ephorus, not only by
Ionians, but also by Athenians, as we have shown in the account of each
particular place.
It was worth while to controvert the positions of Ephorus, Apollodorus
however disregards all this, and adds a seventeenth to the sixteen
nations, namely, the Galatians; although it is well to mention this, yet
it is not required in a discussion of what Ephorus relates or omits;
Apollodorus has assigned as the reason of the omission, that all these
nations settled in the peninsula subsequently to the time of Ephorus.
27. Passing then to Homer, Apollodorus is correct in saying that there
was a great intermixture and confusion among the barbarous nations, from
the Trojan war to the present time, on account of the changes which had
taken place; for some nations had an accession of others, some were
extinct or dispersed, or had coalesced together.
But he is mistaken in assigning two reasons why the poet does not
mention some nations, namely, either because the place was not then
occupied by the particular people, or because they were comprehended in
another tribe. Neither of these reasons could induce him to be silent
respecting Cappadocia or Cataonia, or Lycaonia itself, for we have
nothing of the kind in history relating to these countries. It is
ridiculous to be anxious to find excuses why Homer has omitted to speak
of Cappadocia [Cataonia] and Lycaonia, and not to inform us why Ephorus
omitted them, particularly as the proposed object of Apollodorus was to
examine and discuss the opinions of Ephorus; and to tell us why Homer
mentions Mæonians instead of Lydians, and also not to remark that
Ephorus has not omitted to mention either Lydians or Mæonians.277
28. Apollodorus remarks, that Homer mentions certain unknown nations,
and he is right in specifying Caucones, Solymi, Ceteii, Leleges, and the
Cilicians from the plain of Thebe; but the Halizones are a fiction of
his own, or rather of those who, not knowing who the Halizones were,
frequently altered the mode of writing the name, and invented the
existence of mines of silver and of many other mines, all of
which are abandoned.
With this vain intention they collected the stories related by the
Scepsian, (Demetrius,) and taken from Callisthenes and other writers,
who did not clear them from false notions respecting the Halizones; for
example, the wealth of Tantalus and of the Pelopidæ was derived, it is
said, from the mines about Phrygia and Sipylus; that of Cadmus from the
mines about Thrace and Mount Pangæum; that of Priam from the gold mines
at Astyra, near Abydos (of which at present there are small remains, yet
there is a large quantity of matter ejected, and the excavations are
proofs of former workings); that of Midas from the mines about Mount
Bermium; that of Gyges, Alyattes, and Crœsus, from the mines in Lydia
and the small deserted city between Atarneus and Pergamum, where are the
sites of exhausted mines.278
29. We may impute another fault to Apollodorus, that although he
frequently censures modern writers for introducing new readings at
variance with the meaning of Homer, yet in this instance he not only
neglects his own advice, but actually unites together places which are
not so represented (by Homer).
(For example), Xanthus the Lydian says, that after the Trojan times the
Phrygians came from Europe (into Asia) and the left (western) side of
the Euxine, and that their leader Scamandrius conducted them from the
Berecynti and Ascania. Apollodorus adds, that Homer mentions the same
Ascania as Xanthus,
“Phorcys and the divine Ascanius led the Phrygians from the
distant Ascania.”279
If this be so, the migration (from Europe to Asia) must be later than
the Trojan war; but in the Trojan war the auxiliaries mentioned by the
poet came from the opposite continent, from the Berecynti and Ascania.
Who then were the Phrygians,
“who were then encamped on the banks of the Sangarius,”
when Priam says,
“And I joined them with these troops as an auxiliary”?
280
And how came Priam to send for the Phrygians from among the Berecynti,
between whom and himself no compact existed, and pass over the people
who were contiguous to him, and whose ally he formerly had been?
Apollodorus, after having spoken of the Phrygians in this manner,
introduces an account concerning the Mysians which contradicts this. He
says that there is a village of Mysia called Ascania, near a lake of the
same name,281 out of which issues the river Ascanius, mentioned by
Euphorion:282
“near the waters of the Mysian Ascanius;”
and by Alexander of Ætolia:
“they who dwell on the stream of Ascanius, on the brink of the
Ascanian lake, where lived Dolion, the son of Silenus and
Melia.”
The district, he says, about Cyzicus, on the road to Miletopolis, is
called Dolionis and Mysia.
If this is the case, and if it is confirmed by existing places and by
the poets, what prevented Homer, when he mentioned this Ascania, from
mentioning the Ascania also of which Xanthus speaks?
I have already spoken of these places in the description of Mysia and
Phrygia, and shall here conclude the discussion.
1. It remains for me to describe the island Cyprus, which adjoins this
peninsula on the south. I have already said, that the sea comprised
between Egypt, Phœnice, Syria, and the remainder of the coast as far as
that opposite to Rhodes, consists, so to say, of the
Egyptian and Pamphylian seas and the sea along the Bay of Issus.
In this sea lies the island Cyprus, having its northern side approaching
to Cilicia Tracheia, and here also it approaches nearest to the
continent; on the east it is washed by the Bay of Issus, on the west by
the Pamphylian sea, and on the south by that of Egypt. The latter sea is
confluent on the west with the Libyan and Carpathian seas. On its
southern and eastern parts is Egypt, and the succeeding tract of coast
as far as Seleucia and Issus. On the north is Cyprus, and the Pamphylian
sea.
The Pamphylian sea is bounded on the north by the extremities of Cilicia
Tracheia, of Pamphylia, and of Lycia as far as the territory opposite to
Rhodes; on the west, by the island of Rhodes; on the east, by the part
of Cyprus near Paphos, and the Acamas; on the south, it unites with the
Egyptian sea.
2. The circumference of Cyprus is 3420 stadia, including the winding of
the bays. Its length from Cleides283 to the Acamas,284 to a
traveller on land proceeding from east to west, is 1400 stadia.
The Cleides are two small islands lying in front of Cyprus on the
eastern side, at the distance of 700 stadia from the Pyramus.285
The Acamas is a promontory with two paps, and upon it is a large forest.
It is situated at the western part of the island, but extends towards
the north, approaching very near Selinus in Cilicia Tracheia, for the
passage across is only 1000 stadia; to Side in Pamphylia the passage is
1600 stadia, and to the Chelidoniæ (islands) 1900 stadia.
The figure of the whole island is oblong, and in some places on the
sides, which define its breadth, there are isthmuses.
We shall describe the several parts of the island briefly, beginning
from the point nearest to the continent.
3. We have said before, that opposite to Anemyrium, a promontory of
Cilicia Tracheia, is the extremity of Cyprus, namely, the promontory of
Crommyon,286 at the distance of 350 stadia.
From the cape, keeping the island on the right hand, and continent on
the left, the voyage to the Cleides in a straight line towards north and
east is a distance of 700 stadia.
In the interval is the city Lapathus,287 with a harbour and dockyards;
it was founded by Laconians and Praxander. Opposite to it was Nagidus.
Then follows Aphrodisium;288 here the island is narrow, for over the
mountains to Salamis289 are 70 stadia. Next is the sea-beach of the
Achæans; here Teucer, the founder of Salamis in Cyprus, being it is said
banished by his father Telamon, first disembarked. Then follows the city
Carpasia,290 with a harbour. It is situated opposite to the promontory
Sarpedon.291 From Carpasia there is a transit across the isthmus of 30
stadia to the Carpasian islands and the southern sea; next are a
promontory and a mountain. The name of the promontory is Olympus, and
upon it is a temple of Venus Acræa, not to be approached nor seen by
women.
Near and in front lie the Cleides, and many other islands; next are the
Carpasian islands, and after these Salamis, the birth-place of Aristus
the historian; then Arsinoë, a city with a harbour; next Leucolla,
another harbour; then the promontory Pedalium, above which is a hill,
rugged, lofty, and table-shaped, sacred to Venus; to this hill from
Cleides are 680 stadia. Then to Citium292 the navigation along the
coast is for the greater part difficult and among bays. Citium has a
close harbour. It is the birth-place of Zeno, the chief of the Stoic
sect, and of Apollonius the physician. Thence to Berytus are 1500
stadia. Next is the city Amathus,293 and between Citium and Berytus, a
small city called Palæa, and a pap-shaped mountain, Olympus; then
follows Curias,294 a promontory of a peninsular form, to which from
Throni295 are 700 stadia; then the city Curium,296 with a harbour,
founded by Argives.
Here we may observe the negligence of the author, whether Hedylus, or
whoever he was, of the elegiac lines which begin,
“We hinds, sacred to Phœbus, hither came in our swift course;
we traversed the broad sea, to avoid the arrows of our
pursuers.”
He says, that the hinds ran down from the Corycian heights,
and swam across from the Cilician coast to the beach near Curias, and
adds,
“That it was a cause of vast surprise to men to think how we
scoured the trackless waves, aided by the vernal Zephyrs.”
For it is possible (by doubling the cape) to sail round from Corycus to
the beach of Curias, but not with the assistance of the west wind, nor
by keeping the island on the right, but on the left hand; and there is
no (direct) passage across.
At Curium is the commencement of the voyage towards the west in the
direction of Rhodes; then immediately follows a promontory, whence those
who touch with their hands the altar of Apollo are precipitated. Next
are Treta,297 Boosura,298 and Palæpaphus, situated about 10 stadia
from the sea, with a harbour and an ancient temple of the Paphian Venus;
then follows Zephyria,299 a promontory with an anchorage, and another
Arsinoë, which also has an anchorage, a temple, and a grove. At a little
distance from the sea is Hierocepis.300 Next is Paphos, founded by
Agapenor, with a harbour and temples, which are fine buildings. It is
distant from Palæpaphus 60 stadia by land. Along this road the annual
sacred processions are conducted, when a great concourse both of men and
women resort thither from other cities. Some writers say, that from
Paphos to Alexandreia are 3600 stadia. Next after Paphos is the Acamas;
then after the Acamas the voyage is easterly to Arsinoë a city, and to
the grove of Jupiter; then Soli301 a city, where there is a harbour, a
river, and a temple of Venus and Isis. It was founded by Phalerus and
Acamas, who were Athenians. The inhabitants are called Solii. Stasanor,
one of the companions of Alexander, was a native of Soli, and was
honoured with a chief command. Above Soli in the interior is Limenia a
city, then follows the promontory of Crommyon.
4. But why should we be surprised at poets, and those particularly who
study modes of expression only, when we compare them with Damastes? The
latter gives the length of the island from north to south, from
Hierocepia, as he says, to Cleides.
Nor does even Eratosthenes give it exactly. For, when he censures
Damastes, he says that Hierocepia is not on the north, but on the south.
Yet neither is it on the south, but the west, since it lies on the
western side, where are situated Paphos and Acamas.
Such then is the position of Cyprus.
5. It is not inferior in fertility to any one of the islands, for it
produces good wine and oil, and sufficient corn to supply the wants of
the inhabitants. At Tamassus there are abundant mines of copper, in
which the calcanthus is found, and rust of copper, useful for its
medicinal properties.
Eratosthenes says, that anciently the plains abounded with timber, and
were covered with forests, which prevented cultivation; the mines were
of some service towards clearing the surface, for trees were cut down to
smelt the copper and silver. Besides this, timber was required for the
construction of fleets, as the sea was now navigated with security and
by a large naval force; but when even these means were insufficient to
check the growth of timber in the forests, permission was given to such
as were able and inclined, to cut down the trees and to hold the land
thus cleared as their own property, free from all payments.
6. Formerly the Cyprian cities were governed by tyrants, but from the
time that the Ptolemaïc kings were masters of Egypt, Cyprus also came
into their power, the Romans frequently affording them assistance. But
when the last Ptolemy that was king, brother of the father of Cleopatra,
the queen of Egypt in our time, had conducted himself in a disorderly
manner, and was ungrateful to his benefactors, he was deposed, and the
Romans took possession of the island, which became a Prætorian province
by itself.
The chief author of the deposition of the king was Pub. Claudius
Pulcher, who having fallen into the hands of the Cilician pirates, at
that time at the height of their power, and a ransom being demanded of
him, despatched a message to the king, entreating him to send it for his
release. The king sent a ransom, but of so small an amount, that the
pirates disdained to accept it, and returned it, but they dismissed
Pulcher without any payment. After his escape, he remembered what he
owed to both parties; and when he became tribune of the people, he had
sufficient influence to have Marcus Cato sent to deprive the
king of the possession of Cyprus. The latter put himself to death before
the arrival of Cato, who, coming soon afterwards, took possession of
Cyprus, sold the king’s property, and conveyed the money to the public
treasury of the Romans.
From this time the island became, as it is at present, a Prætorian
province. During a short intervening period Antony had given it to
Cleopatra and her sister Arsinoë, but upon his death all his
arrangements were annulled.