SUMMARY.
The remaining parts of Macedonia are considered, and the whole of Greece;
on this the author dwells some time on account of the great reputation
of the country. He corrects minutely, and clears up, the confused and
vague accounts respecting the cities contained therein, given by poets and
historians, and especially in the Catalogue and in many other parts of the
Poem.
1. After having described as much of the western parts
of Europe as is comprised within the interior and exterior
seas, and surveyed all the barbarous nations which it contains,
as far as the Don1 and a small part of Greece, [namely,
Macedonia,]2 we propose to give an account of the remainder
of the Helladic geography. Homer was the first writer on
the subject of geography, and was followed by many others,
some of whom composed particular treatises, and entitled them
“Harbours,” “Voyages,” “Circuits of the Earth,”3 or gave them
some name of this kind, and these comprised the description
of the Helladic country. Some, as Ephorus and Polybius,
included in their general history a separate topography of
the continents; others, as Posidonius and Hipparchus, introduced
matter relating to geography in their writings on
physical and mathematical subjects.
It is easy to form an opinion of the other writers, but the
poems of Homer require critical consideration, both because
he speaks as a poet, and because he describes things not as
they exist at present, but as they existed anciently, and the
greater part of which have been rendered obscure by time.
We must however undertake this inquiry as far as we are
able, beginning from the point where our description ended.
It ended with an account of the Epirotic and Illyrian nations
on the west and north, and of Macedonia as far as Byzantium
on the east.
After the Epirotæ and Illyrii follow the Acarnanes,[4] the
Ætoli, the Locri-Ozolæ, then the Phocæenses and Bœoti,
Grecian nations. Opposite to these on the other side of the
strait is Peloponnesus, which comprises the Gulf of Corinth,5
interposed between, and determining the figure of the latter,
from which it also receives its own. Next to Macedonia6
are the Thessalians,7 extending as far as the Malienses,8 and
the other nations, situated on both sides of the isthmus.
2. There are many Greek tribes, but the chief people are
equal in number to the Greek dialects with which we are
acquainted, namely, four. Of these, the Ionic is the same as
the ancient Attic; (for Iones was the former name of the inhabitants
of Attica; from thence came the Iones who settled
in Asia,9 and use the dialect now called Ionic;) the Doric was
the same as the Æolic dialect, for all the people on the other
side of the isthmus except the Athenians, the Megareans, and
the Dorians about Parnassus, are even now called Æolians;
it is probable that the Dorians, from their being a small
nation, and occupying a most rugged country, and from want
of intercourse [with the Æolians], no longer resemble that
people either in language or customs, and, although of the
same race, have lost all appearance of affinity. It was the
same with the Athenians, who inhabiting a rugged country
with a light soil, escaped the ravages of invaders. As they
always occupied the same territory, and no enemy attempted to
expel them, nor had any desire to take possession of it themselves,
on this account they were, according to Thucydides,
regarded as Autochthones, or an indigenous race. This was
probably the reason, although they were a small nation, why
they remained a distinct people with a distinct dialect.
It was not in the parts only on the other side of the isthmus,
that the Æolian nation was powerful, but those on this side
also were formerly Æolians. They were afterwards intermixed
first with Ionians who came from Attica, and got possession
of Ægialus,10 and secondly with Dorians, who under
the conduct of the Heracleidæ founded Megara and many of
the cities in the Peloponnesus. The Iones were soon expelled
by the Achæi, an Æolian tribe; and there remained in Peloponnesus
the two nations, the Æolic and the Doric. Those
nations then that had little intercourse with the Dorians used
the Æolian dialect. (This was the case with the Arcadians
and Eleians, the former of whom were altogether a mountain
tribe, and did not share in the partition of the Peloponnesus;
the latter were considered as dedicated to the service of
the Olympian Jupiter, and lived for a long period in peace,
principally because they were of Æolian descent, and had
admitted into their country the army of Oxylus, about the time
of the return of the Heracleidæ.11) The rest used a kind of
dialect composed of both, some of them having more, others
less, of the Æolic dialect. Even at present the inhabitants of
different cities use different dialects, but all seem to Dorize,
or use the Doric dialect, on account of the ascendency of that
nation.
Such then is the number of the Grecian nations, and thus
in general are they distinguished from each other.
I shall resume my account of them, and describe each
nation in their proper order.
3. According to Ephorus, Acarnania is the commencement
of Greece on the west, for it is the first country which lies
contiguous to the Epirotic nations. As this author follows
the coast in his measurements, and begins from thence, considering
the sea the most important guide of topographical
description, (for otherwise he might have placed the beginning
of Greece in Macedonia and Thessaly,) so ought I, observing
the natural character of places, to keep in view the sea as a
mark by which I should direct the course of my description.
The sea coming from Sicily spreads itself on one side
towards the Corinthian Gulf, and on the other forms a large
peninsula, the Peloponnesus, united to the mainland by a
narrow isthmus.
The two largest bodies of country in Greece are that within
the isthmus, and that without the isthmus, [extending to the
mouths of the river Peneius]. That within the isthmus is however
larger, and more celebrated. The Peloponnesus is, as it
were, the acropolis or citadel of all Greece; and all Greece in
a manner holds the chief or leading position in Europe. For
independently of the fame and power of the nations which
inhabited it, the position itself of the places in it suggests
this superiority. One site succeeds another diversified with
numerous most remarkable bays, and large peninsulas. The
first of these peninsulas is the Peloponnesus, closed in by
an isthmus of forty stadia in extent. The second comprehends
the first, and has an isthmus reaching from Pagæ in
Megaris to Nisæa, which is the naval arsenal of the Megareans;
the passage across the isthmus from sea to sea is 120
stadia.
The third peninsula also comprises the latter. Its isthmus
extends from the farthest recess of the Crissæan Gulf to
Thermopylæ. The line supposed to be drawn between these
is about 508 stadia in length, including within it the whole
of Bœotia, and cutting Phocis and the country of the
Epicnemidii obliquely. The fourth peninsula has the isthmus
extending from the Ambracian Gulf through Mount Œta
and Traclinia to the Maliac Gulf and Thermopylæ, about
800 stadia.
There is another isthmus of more than 1000 stadia reaching
from the same Gulf of Ambracia, and passing through
the country of the Thessalians and Macedonians to the recess
of the Thermæan Gulf.
The succession of peninsulas furnishes a convenient order
to be followed in describing the country.
We must begin from the smallest, as being also the most
famous of these peninsulas.12
1. The Peloponnesus resembles in figure the leaf of a plane
tree.13 Its length and breadth are nearly equal, each about
1400 stadia. The former is reckoned from west to east, that
is, from the promontory Chelonatas through Olympia and the
territory Megalopolitis to the isthmus; the latter from south
to north, or from Maliæ though Arcadia to Ægium.
The circumference, according to Polybius, exclusive of the
circuit of the bays, is 4000 stadia. Artemidorus however
adds to this 400 stadia, and if we include the measure of the
bays, it exceeds 5600 stadia. We have already said that the
isthmus at the road where they draw vessels over-land from
one sea to the other is 40 stadia across.
2. Eleians and Messenians occupy the western side of this
peninsula. Their territory is washed by the Sicilian Sea.
They possess the coast also on each side. Elis bends towards
the north and the commencement of the Corinthian Gulf as
far as the promontory Araxus,14 opposite to which across the
strait is Acarnania; the islands Zacynthus,15 Cephallenia,16
Ithaca,17 and the Echinades, to which belongs Dulichium, lie
in front of it. The greater part of Messenia is open to the
south and to the Libyan Sea as far as the islands Thyrides
near Tænarum.18
Next to Elis, is the nation of the Achæi looking towards
the north, and stretching along the Corinthian Gulf they
terminate at Sicyonia. Then follow Sicyon19 and Corinth,
extending as far as the isthmus. Next after Messenia are
Laconia and Argeia, which latter country also reaches as far
as the isthmus.
The bays of the Peloponnesus are the Messeniac,20 the Laconian,21
a third the Argolic,22 and a fourth the Hermionic,23
or the Saronic,24 which some writers call the Salaminiac bay.
Some of these bays are supplied by the Libyan, others by
the Cretan and Myrtoan Seas. Some call even the Saronic
Gulf a sea. In the middle of Peloponnesus is Arcadia, lying
contiguous to all the other nations.
3. The Corinthian Gulf begins from the mouths of the
Evenus,25 (some say from the mouths of the Achelous,26 which
is the boundary between the Acarnanes and Ætoli,) and from
the promontory Araxus. For there the shores on both sides
first begin to contract, and have a considerable inclination
towards each other; as they advance farther onwards they
nearly meet at Rhium27 and Antirrhium,28 leaving a channel of
only about 5 stadia between them.
Rhium is a promontory of Achaia, it is low, and bends inwards
like a sickle, (indeed it has the name of Drepanum, or
the Sickle,) and lies between Patræ29 and Ægium,30 on it there
is a temple of Neptune. Antirrhium is situated on the confines
of Ætolia and Locris. It is called Rhium Molycrium.
From this point the sea-shore again parts in a moderate degree
on each side, and advancing into the Crissæan Gulf, terminates
there, being shut in by the western boundaries of
Bœotia and Megaris.
The Corinthian Gulf is 2230 stadia in circuit from the
river Evenus to the promontory Araxus; and if we reckon
from the Achelous, it would be increased by about 100 stadia.
The tract from the Achelous to the Evenus is occupied by
Acarnanians; next are the Ætoli, reaching to the Cape Antirrhium.
The remainder of the country, as far as the isthmus,
is occupied by Phocis, Bœotia, and by Megaris, it extends
1118 stadia.
The sea from Cape Antirrhium as far as the isthmus is
[the Crissæan Gulf, but from the city Creusa it is called the
Sea of] Alcyonis, and is a portion of the Crissæan Gulf.31
From the isthmus to the promontory Araxus is a distance of
1030 stadia.
Such in general then is the nature and extent of the Peloponnesus,
and of the country on the other side of the strait up
to the farther recess of the gulf. Such also is the nature of
the gulf between both.
We shall next describe each country in particular, beginning
with Elis.
1. At present the whole sea-coast lying between the Achæi
and Messenii is called Eleia, it stretches into the inland parts
towards Arcadia at Pholoe, and the Azanes, and Parrhasii.
Anciently it was divided into several states; afterwards
into two, Elis of the Epeii, and Elis under Nestor, the son of
Neleus. As Homer says, who mentions Elis of the Epeii by
name,
“Sacred Elis, where the Epeii rule.”
32
The other he calls Pylus subject to Nestor, through which, he
says, the Alpheius flows:
“Alpheius, that flows in a straight line through the land of the Pylians.”33
The poet was also acquainted with a city Pylus;
“They arrived at Pylus, the well-built city of Neleus.”
34
The Alpheius however does not flow through nor beside the
city, but another river flows beside it, which some call
Pamisus, others Amathus, from which Pylus seems to be
termed Emathöeis, but the Alpheius flows through the Eleian
territory.
2. Elis, the present city, was not yet founded in the time
of Homer, but the inhabitants of the country lived in villages.
It was called Cœle [or Hollow] Elis, from the accident of its
locality, for the largest and best part of it is situated in a
hollow. It was at a late period, and after the Persian war,
that the people collected together out of many demi, or
burghs, into one city. And, with the exception of a few, the
other places in the Peloponnesus which the poet enumerates
are not to be called cities, but districts. Each contained several
assemblages of demi or burghs, out of which the famous
cities were afterwards formed, as Mantineia in Arcadia, which
was furnished with inhabitants from five burghs by Argives;
Tegea from nine; Heræa from as many during the reign of
Cleombrotus, or Cleonymus; Ægium out of seven, or eight;
Patræ out of seven; Dyme out of eight; thus Elis also was
formed out of the surrounding burghs. The demus of the
Agriades was one of those added to it. The Peneius35 flows
through the city by the Gymnasium, which the Eleii constructed
long after the countries which were subject to Nestor
had passed into their possession.
3. These were the Pisatis, of which Olympia is a part, and
Triphylia, and the territory of the Caucones. The Triphylii
had their name from the accident of the union of three tribes;
of the Epeii, the original inhabitants; of the Minyæ, who
afterwards settled there; and last of all of the Eleii, who
made themselves masters of the country. Instead of the Minyæ
some writers substitute Arcadians, who had frequently disputed
the possession of the territory, whence Pylus had the
epithet Arcadian as well as Triphylian. Homer calls all this
tract as far as Messene by the name of Pylus, the name of the
city. The names of the chiefs, and of their abodes in the
Catalogue of the Ships, show that Cœle Elis, or the Hollow
Elis, was distinct from the country subject to Nestor.
I say this on comparing the present places with Homer’s
description of them, for we must compare one with the other
in consideration of the fame of the poet, and our being bred
up in an acquaintance with his writings; and every one will
conclude that our present inquiry is rightly conducted, if
nothing is found repugnant to his accounts of places, which
have been received with the fullest reliance on their credibility
and his veracity.
We must describe these places as they exist at present, and
as they are represented by the poet, comparing them together
as far as is required by the design of this work.
4. The Araxus is a promontory of Eleia situated on the
north, 60 stadia from Dyme, an Achæan city. This promontory
we consider the commencement of the coast of Eleia. Proceeding
thence towards the west is Cyllene,36 the naval arsenal
of the Eleii, from whence is an ascent of 120 stadia to the present
city. This Cyllene Homer mentions in these words,
“Cyllenian Otus, chief of the Epeii,”
for he would not have given the title of chief of Epeii to one
who came from the Arcadian mountain of this name. It is a
village of moderate size, in which is preserved the Æsculapius
of Colotes, a statue of ivory, of admirable workmanship.
Next to Cyllene is the promontory Chelonatas,37 the most
westerly point of the Peloponnesus. In front of it there is a
small island and shoals on the confines of Hollow Elis, and the
territory of the Pisatæ. From hence [Cyllene] to Cephallenia
is a voyage of not more than 80 stadia. Somewhere on the
above-mentioned confines is the river Elisson, or Elissa.
5. Between the Chelonatas and Cyllene the river Peneius
empties itself, and that also called by the poet Selleïs, which
flows from the mountain Pholoe. On this river is situated
Ephyra, a city to be distinguished from the Thesprotian,
Thessalian, and Corinthian Ephyras; being a fourth city of
this name, situated on the road leading to the Lasion sea-coast,
and which may be either the same place as Bœonoa,
(for it is the custom to call Œnoe by this name,) or a city
near this, distant from Elis 120 stadia. This Ephyra seems
to be the reputed birth-place of Astyochea, the mother of Tlepolemus,
the son of Hercules,
“Whom Hercules brought from Ephyra, from the river Selleis;”
38
(for this was the principal scene of the adventures of Hercules;
at the other places called Ephyra, there is no river
Selleis;) hence came the armour of Meges,
“Which Phyleus formerly brought from Ephyra, from the river Selleis;”39
from this Ephyra came also mortal poisons. For Minerva
says, that Ulysses went to Ephyra
“In search of a mortal poison wherewith to anoint his arrows:”
40
And the suitors say of Telemachus;
“Or he will go to the rich country of Ephyra to bring back poison destructive of our lives.”41
And Nestor introduces the daughter of Augeas, king of the
Epeii, in his account of the war with that people, as one who
administered poisons:
“I first slew a man,42 Mulius, a brave soldier. He was son-in-law of
Augeas; he had married his eldest daughter; she was acquainted with
all the poisons which the earth brings forth.”
There is also near Sicyon a river, Selleis, and a village of
the name of Ephyra near it; and a village Ephyra in the
territory of Agræa in Ætolia, the people of which are called
Ephyri. There are also other Ephyri among the Perrhæbi
near Macedonia, who are Crannonians,43 and the Thesprotic
Ephyri of Cichyrus, which was formerly called Ephyra.
6. Apollodorus, when he informs us in what manner the
poet usually distinguishes places with the same names, as
Orchomenus for instance, designating that in Arcadia by the
epithet, “abounding with sheep;” the Bœotian Orchomenus,
as “Minyeïus;” by applying to Samos the term Thracian,
and adds,
“Between Samos and Imbros,”
44
to distinguish it from Ionian Samos; so he says the Thesprotic
Ephyra is distinguished from others by the words, “at
a distance,” and “from the river Selleis.” This does not
agree with what Demetrius of Scepsis says, from whom he
borrows most of his information. For Demetrius does not
say that there is a river Selleis in Thesprotia, but in Elis,
near the Thesprotic Ephyra, as I have said before.
What he says also about Œchalia requires examination,
where he asserts that the city of Eurytus of Œchalia is the
only city, when there is more than one city of that name. It
is therefore evident that he means the Thessalian city mentioned
by Homer:
“And they who occupied Œchalia, the city of Eurytus, the Œchalian.”45
What city, then, is that on the road from which “Thamyris
the Thracian was met by the Muses, and deprived of the
power of song,” for he says,
“Coming from Œchalia, from the dwelling of Eurytus, the Œchalian.”46
If this were the city in Thessaly, the Scepsian is mistaken in
mentioning some city in Arcadia, which is now called Andania.
If he is not mistaken, still the Arcadian Œchalia is said to
be the city of Eurytus, so that there is not one city only of
that name, although Apollodorus asserts that there is but one.
7. There existed between the mouths of the Peneius and
the Selleis near Scollis, a Pylus, not the city of Nestor, but
another of that name, having nothing in common with that
on the Alpheius, nor even with that on the Pamisus, or, if
we must so call it, the Amathus. Some writers, through their
solicitude for the fame and noble descent of Nestor, give a
forced meaning to these words. Since there are three places
in Peloponnesus of the name of Pylus, (whence the saying
originated,
“There is a Pylus in front of Pylus, and still there is another Pylus,”)
namely, this and the Lepreatic Pylus in Triphylia, and a
third, the Messeniac near Coryphasium,47 the advocates for
each place endeavour to show that the river in his own country
is (Emathois) ἠμαθόεις or sandy, and declare that to be
the country of Nestor.
The greater number of other writers, both historians and
poets, say, that Nestor was a Messenian, assigning as his birth-place
the Pylus, which continued to exist to their times.
Those, however, who adhere to Homer and follow his poem as
their guide, say, that the Pylus of Nestor is where the territory
is traversed by the Alpheius. Now this river passes
through the Pisatis and Triphylia. The inhabitants of the
Hollow Elis were emulous of the same honour respecting the
Pylus in their own country, and point out distinctive marks,
as a place called Gerenus, and a river Geron, and another
river Geranius, and endeavour to confirm this opinion by
pretending that Nestor had the epithet Gerenius from these
places.
The Messenians argue in the very same manner, but apparently
with more probability on their side. For they say,
that in their territory there is a place better known, called
Gerena, and once well inhabited.
Such then is the present state of the Hollow Elis.48
8. The poet however, after having divided the country into
four parts, and mentioned the four chiefs, does not clearly
express himself, when he says:
“those who inhabit Buprasium and the sacred Elis, all whom Hyrminē
and Myrsinus, situated at the extremity of the territory and the Olenian
rock, and Aleisium contain, these were led by four chiefs; ten swift vessels
accompanied each, and multitudes of Epeii were embarked in them.”49
For, by applying the name Epeii to both people, the Buprasians
and the Eleii, and by never applying the name Eleii to
the Buprasians, he may seem to divide, not Eleia, but the
country of the Epeii, into four parts, which he had before
divided into two; nor would Buprasium then be a part of Elis,
but rather of the country of the Epeii. For that he terms
the Buprasians Epeii, is evident from these words:
“As when the Epeii were burying King Amarynces at Buprasium.”50
Again, by enumerating together “Buprasium and sacred
Elis,” and then by making a fourfold division, he seems to
arrange these very four divisions in common under both Buprasium
and Elis.
Buprasium, it is probable, was a considerable settlement in
Eleia, which does not exist at present. But the territory only
has this name, which lies on the road to Dyme from Elis the
present city. It might be supposed that Buprasium had at
that time some superiority over Elis, as the Epeii had over
the Eleii, but afterwards they had the name of Eleii instead
of Epeii.
Buprasium then was a part of Elis, and they say, that
Homer, by a poetical figure, speaks of the whole and of the
part together, as in these lines:
“through Greece and the middle of Argos;”51 “through Greece and
Phthia;”52 “the Curetes and the Ætoli were fighting;”53 “those from
Dulichium and the sacred Echinades;”54
for Dulichium is one of the Echinades. Modern writers also
use this figure, as Hipponax,
“they eat the bread of the Cyprians and the wheat of the Amathusii;”
for the Amathusii are Cyprians: and Alcman;
“leaving the beloved Cyprus, and Paphos, washed on all sides by the sea:”
and Æschylus;
“possessing as your share by lot the whole of Cyprus and Paphos.”
If Homer has not called the Buprasii by the name of Eleii,
we shall reply, nor has he mentioned many other places and
things which exist. For this is not a proof that they did not
exist, but only that he has not mentioned them.
9. But Hecatæus of Miletus says, that the Epeii are a
different people from the Eleii; that the Epeii accompanied
Hercules in his expedition against Augeas, and joined him in
destroying Elis, and defeating Augeas. He also says, that
Dyme was both an Epeian and an Achæan city.
The ancient historians, accustomed from childhood to
falsehood through the tales of mythologists, speak of many
things that never existed. Hence they do not even agree
with one another, in their accounts of the same things.
Not that it is improbable that the Epeii, although a different
people and at variance with the Eleii, when they
had gained the ascendency, united together, forming a common
state, and their power extended even as far as Dyme.
The poet does not mention Dyme, but it is not improbable
that at that time it was subject to the Epeii, and afterwards
to the Iones, or perhaps not even to this people, but to the
Achæi, who were in possession of the country of the Iones.
Of the four portions, which include Buprasium, Hyrminē
and Myrsinus belong to the territory of Eleia. The rest,
according to the opinion of some writers, are situated close
on the borders of the Pisatis.
10. Hyrminē was a small town, which exists no longer,
but there is a mountainous promontory near Cyllene, called
Hormina or Hyrmina.
Myrsinus is the present Myrtuntium, a settlement extending
to the sea, and situated on the road from Dyme to Elis, at
the distance of 70 stadia from the city of the Eleii.
It is conjectured that the Olenian rock is the present Scollis.
For we might mention probable conjectures, since both places
and names have undergone changes, and the poet himself
does not explain his meaning clearly in many passages.
Scollis is a rocky mountain, common to the Dymæi, and
Tritæenses, and Eleii, situated close to Lampeia, another mountain
in Arcadia, which is distant from Elis 130 stadia, from
Tritæa 100, and an equal number [from Dyme] Achæan cities.
Aleisium is the present Alesiæum, a place near Amphidolis,
where the neighbouring people hold a market every month.
It is situated upon the mountain road leading from Elis to
Olympia. Formerly, it was a city of the Pisatis, the boundaries
of the country being different at different times on account
of the change of masters. The poet also calls Aleisium,
the hill of Aleisius, when he says,
“Till we brought our horses to Buprasium rich in grain, and to the
Olenian rock, and to the place which is called the hill of Aleisium,”55
for we must understand the words by the figure hyperbaton.
Some also point out a river Aleisius.
11. Since a tribe of Caucones is mentioned in Triphylia
near Messenia, and as Dyme is called by some writers
Cauconis, and since between Dyme and Tritæa in the Dymæan
district there is also a river called Caucon, a question arises
respecting the Caucones, whether there are two nations of this
name, one situate about Triphylia, and another about Dyme,
Elis, and Caucon. This river empties itself into another
which is called Teutheas, in the masculine gender, and is the
name of a small town that was one of those that composed
Dyme; except that the town is of the feminine gender, and is
pronounced Teuthea, without the s, and the last syllable is long.
There is a temple of Diana Nemydia (Nemeæa?). The
Teutheas discharges itself into the Achelous, which runs by
Dyme, and has the same name as that in Acarnania, and the
name also of Peirus. In the lines of Hesiod,
“he lived near the Olenian rock on the banks of the broad Peirus,”
some change the last word Πείροιο to Πώροιο, but improperly.
56[But it is the opinion of some writers, who make the
Caucones a subject of inquiry, that when Minerva in the
Odyssey, who has assumed the form of Mentor, says to Nestor;
“At sunrise I go to the magnanimous Caucones, where a debt neither of
a late date nor of small amount is owing to me.57 When Telemachus
comes to thy house send him with thy son, thy chariot, and thy horses;”
a certain district in the territory of the Epeii appears to be
designated, which the Caucones, a different nation from that
in Triphylia, possessed, and who perhaps extended even as far
as the Dymean territory.] But it was not proper to omit,
whence Dyme had the name Cauconitis, nor why the river was
called Caucon, because the question is, who the Caucones58
were, to whom Minerva says, she is going to recover a debt.
For if we understand the poet to mean those in Triphylia
about Lepreum, I know not how this is probable; whence
some persons even write the passage,
“where a large debt is owing to me in the sacred Elis.”
This will appear more clearly, when we describe the Pisatis,
and after it Triphylia as far as the confines of Messenia.
12. Next to the Chelonatas is the long tract of coast of the
Pisatæ; then follows a promontory, Pheia; there was also a
small town of this name;
“by the walls of Pheia about the stream of the Jardanes,”
59
for there is a small river near it.
Some writers say, that Pheia is the commencement of the
Pisatis. In front of Pheia is a small island and a harbour;
thence to Olympia by sea, which is the shortest way, is
120 stadia. Then immediately follows another promontory,
[Icthys,] projecting very far towards the west, like the
Chelonatas; from this promontory to Cephallenia are 120
stadia. Next the Alpheius discharges itself, at the distance
from the Chelonatas of 280, and from the Araxus of 545,
stadia. It flows from the same places as the Eurotas. There
is a village of the name of Asea in the Megalopolitis, where
the two sources, whence the above-mentioned rivers issue, are
near to one another. After running under the earth the distance
of many stadia, they then rise to the surface, when one
takes its course to Laconia, the other to the Pisatis. The
Eurotas reappears at the commencement of the district Bleminates,
flowing close beside Sparta, and passing through a
long valley near Helos, which the poet mentions, empties itself
between Gythium, the naval arsenal of Sparta, and Acræa.
But the Alpheius, after receiving the Celadon, (Ladon?) and
Erymanthus, and other obscure streams, pursues its course
through Phrixa, and the Pisatis, and Triphylia, close to Olympia,
and discharges itself into the Sicilian Sea between Pheia and
Epitalium. At its mouth, and at the distance of 80 stadia
from Olympia, is situated the grove of Artemis Alpheionia,
or Alpheiusa, for both words are in use. At Olympia an
annual festival, to which multitudes resort, is celebrated in
honour of this goddess, as well as of Diana Elaphia and
Diana Daphnia. The whole country is full of temples dedicated
to Diana, and Aphrodite, and the Nymphs, which are
situated amidst flowery groves, and generally where there is
abundance of water. Hermeia, or images of Mercury, are
frequently met with on the road, and on the sea-shore, temples
dedicated to Neptune. In the temple of Diana Alpheionia
are pictures by Cleanthes and Aregon, Corinthian painters;
the former has depicted the taking of Troy, and the birth of
Minerva; the latter, Diana borne upon a griffin; which are
highly esteemed.
13. Next is the mountain, which separates Macistia in
Triphylia from the Pisatis; then follows another river Chalcis,
and a spring called Cruni, and Chalcis a village, and next to
these the Samicum, where is the temple of the Samian Neptune,
which is held in the highest honour. There is also a
grove full of wild olive trees. It was intrusted to the care
of the Macistii, whose business it was to announce the Samian
truce as it is called. All the Triphylii contribute to the temple.
[The temple of the Scilluntian Minerva at Scillus in the
neighbourhood of Olympia, opposite the Phellon, is among
the celebrated temples.]60
14. Near these temples, at the distance of 30 stadia, or a
little more, above the sea-coast, is situated the Triphyliac, or
Lepreatic, Pylus, which the poet calls Emathoeis, or Sandy,
and transmits to us as the native country of Nestor, as may
be collected from his poetry. It had the epithet Emathoeis
either from the river, which flows by the city towards the
north, and was formerly called Amathus, but now Mamaus,
or Arcadicus; or because this river was called Pamisus, the
same name as that of two rivers in Messenia, while with
respect to the city, the epithet Emathoeis, or sandy, is of uncertain
origin, since it is not the fact, it is said, that either
the river or the country abounds with sand.
Towards the east is a mountain near Pylus, named after
Minthe, who, according to the fable, was the mistress of
Hades, and being deluded by Proserpine, was transformed
into the garden mint, which some call hedyosmus, or the
sweet-smelling mint. There is also near the mountain an enclosure,
sacred to Hades, held in great veneration by the
Macistii; and a grove dedicated to Ceres, situated above the
Pyliac plain. This plain is fertile, and situated close to the
sea-coast; it extends along the interval between the Samicum
and the river Neda. The sea-shore is sandy and narrow, so
that no one could be censured for asserting that Pylus was
called “sandy” from this tract.
15. Towards the north there were two small Triphyliac
towns, Hypana and Typaneæ, bordering upon Pylus; the
former of which was incorporated with Elis, the other remained
separate. Two rivers flow near, the Dalion and the
Acheron, and empty themselves into the Alpheius. The
Acheron has its name from its relation to Hades. For at that
place were held in extraordinary reverence the temples of
Ceres, Proserpine, and Hades, perhaps on account of the contrariety
of the properties of the country, which Demetrius
of Scepsis mentions. For Triphylia is fertile, but the soil is
subject to mildew, and produces rushes,61 whence in these
places, instead of the product being large, there is frequently
no crop whatever.
16. Towards the south of Pylus is Lepreum. This also
was a city, situated 40 stadia above the sea-coast. Between
the Lepreum and the Annius (Anigrus? Alphæus?) is the
temple of the Samian Neptune. These places are distant 100
stadia from each other. This is the temple in which the poet
says that the Pylii were found by Telemachus engaged in
offering sacrifice:
“They came to Pylus, the well-built city of Neleus; the people were
sacrificing on the sea-shore bulls, entirely black, to Neptune, the god of
the dark locks, who shakes the earth.”62
For the poet was at liberty to feign things which did not
exist, but when it is possible to adapt poetry to reality, and
preserve the narrative ... it is better to abstain from
fiction.
The Lepreatæ possessed a fertile country, on the confines of
which were situated the Cyparissenses. But Caucones were
masters of both these tracts, and even of the Macistus, which
some call Platanistus. The town has the same name as the
territory. It is said, that in the Lepreatis there is even a
monument of a Caucon, who had the name of the nation,
either because he was a chief, or for some other reason.
17. There are many accounts respecting the Caucones.
They are said to be an Arcadian tribe, like the Pelasgi, and
also, like them, a wandering people. Thus the poet relates,
that they came as auxiliaries to the Trojans, but from what
country he does not mention, but it is supposed from Paphlagonia.
For in that country there is a tribe of the name of
Cauconiatæ, that border upon the Mariandyni, who are themselves
Paphlagonians. We shall say more of them when we
describe that country.63
At present I must add some remarks concerning the
Caucones in Triphylia. For some writers say, that the
whole of the present Elis, from Messenia to Dyme, was called
Cauconia. Antimachus calls them all Epeii and Caucones.
But some writers say that they did not possess the whole
country, but inhabited it when they were divided into two
bodies, one of which settled in Triphylia towards Messenia,
the other in the Buprasian district towards Dyme, and in
the Hollow Elis. And there, and not in any other place,
Aristotle considered them to be situated. The last opinion
agrees better with the language of Homer, and the preceding
question is resolved. For Nestor is supposed to have lived at
the Triphyliac Pylus, the parts of which towards the south
and the east (and these coincide towards Messenia and Laconia)
was the country subject to Nestor, but the Caucones
now occupy it, so that those who are going from Pylus to
Lacedæmon must necessarily take the road through the
Caucones. The temple of the Samian Neptune, and the
naval station near it, where Telemachus landed, incline to the
west and to the north. If then the Caucones lived there only,
the account of the poet must be erroneous.
[For, according to Sotades, Minerva enjoins Nestor to send
his son with Telemachus in a chariot to Lacedæmon towards
the east, while she herself returns back to the west, to pass the
night in the vessel;
“but at sunrise she sets out to the magnanimous Caucones,”
to obtain payment of the debt, in a forward direction. How
then are we to reconcile these opinions? for Nestor might
say, “The Caucones are my subjects, and lie directly in the
road of persons who are going to Lacedæmon; why then
do you not accompany Telemachus and his friends on his
journey, but take a road in an opposite direction?” Besides,
it was natural for one, who was going to recover payment of
a debt, and that a considerable sum, as she says, from a people
under the command of Nestor, to request some assistance from
him in case they should be so unjust, as usually happens, as to
refuse to discharge it. But she did not do this.
If therefore the Caucones are to be found in one situation
only, these absurdities would follow. But if one division of
this tribe occupied the places in Elis near Dymē, Minerva
might be said to direct her journey thither, and even the
return to the ship would not be absurd, nor the separation
from the company of Telemachus, when her road was in an
opposite direction.
The question respecting Pylus may perhaps be resolved in
a similar manner, when we come, as we proceed, to the description
of the Messenian Pylus.64]
18. There is also, it is said, a nation, the Paroreatæ, who
occupy, in the hilly district of Triphylia, the mountains,
which extend from about Lepreum and Macistum to the sea
near the Samian grove sacred to Neptune.
19. Below these people on the coast are two caves; one, of
the nymphs Anigriades; the other, the scene of the adventures
of the Atlantides,65 and of the birth of Dardanus. There
also are the groves, both the Ionæum and Eurycydeium.
Samicum is a fortress. Formerly there was a city of the
name of Samos, which perhaps had its designation from its
height, since they called heights Sami; perhaps also this was
the acropolis of Arēnē, which the poet mentions in the
Catalogue of the Ships;
“who inhabited Pylus, and the pleasant Arene;”
66
for as the position of Arēnē has not been clearly discovered
anywhere, it is conjectured, that it was most probably situated
where the adjoining river Anigrus, formerly called
Minyeius, empties itself. As no inconsiderable proof of this,
Homer says,
“There is a river Minyeius, which empties itself into the sea, near Arene.”67
Now near the cave of the nymphs Anigriades is a fountain,
by which the subjacent country is rendered marshy, and filled
with pools of water. The Anigrus however receives the greater
part of the water, being deep, but with so little current
that it stagnates. The place is full of mud, emits an offensive
smell perceptible at a distance of 26 stadia, and renders the
fish unfit for food. Some writers give this fabulous account
of these waters, and attribute the latter effect to the venom
of the Hydra, which some of the Centaurs68 washed from
their wounds; others say, that Melampus used these cleansing
waters for the purification of the Prœtades.69 They are a
cure for alphi, or leprous eruptions, and the white tetter, and
the leichen. They say also that the Alpheus had its name
from its property of curing the disease alphi.70
Since then the sluggishness of the Anigrus, and the recoil
of the waters of the sea, produce a state of rest rather than a
current, they say, that its former name was Minyeïus, but
that some persons perverted the name and altered it to
Minteïus. The etymology of the name may be derived from
other sources; either from those who accompanied Chloris,
the mother of Nestor, from the Minyeian Orchomenus; or,
from the Minyæ descendants of the Argonauts, who were
banished from Lemnos, and went to Lacedæmon, and thence
to Triphylia, and settled about Arēnē, in the country now
called Hypæsia, which however no longer contains places
built by the Minyæ.
Some of these people, with Theras the son of Autesion,
who was a descendant of Polynices, having set sail to the
country between Cyrenæa and the island of Crete, “formerly
Calliste, but afterwards called Thera,” according to Callimachus,
founded Thera, the capital of Cyrene, and gave the
same name to the city, and to the island.
20. Between the Anigrus and the mountain from which
the Jardanes rises, a meadow and a sepulchre are shown,
and the Achææ, which are rocks broken off from the same
mountain, above which was situated, as I have said, the
city Samos. Samos is not mentioned by any of the authors
of Peripli, or Circumnavigations; because perhaps it had
been long since destroyed, and perhaps also on account of its
position. For the Poseidium is a grove, as I have said, near
the sea, a lofty eminence rises above it, situated in front of the
present Samicum, where Samos once stood, so that it cannot
be seen from the sea.
Here also is the plain called Samicus, from which we may
further conjecture that there was once a city Samos.
According to the poem Rhadinē, of which Stesichorus
seems to have been the author, and which begins in this
manner,
“Come, tuneful Muse, Erato, begin the melodious song, in praise of the
lovely Samian youths, sounding the strings of the delightful lyre:”
these youths were natives of this Samos. For he says that
Rhadinē being given in marriage to the tyrant, set sail from
Samos to Corinth with a westerly wind, and therefore certainly
not from the Ionian Samos. By the same wind her
brother, who was archi-theorus, arrived at Delphi. Her
cousin, who was in love with her, set out after her in a
chariot to Corinth. The tyrant put both of them to death,
and sent away the bodies in a chariot, but changing his mind,
he recalled the chariot, and buried them.
21. From this Pylus and the Lepreum to the Messenian
Pylus71 and the Coryphasium, fortresses situated upon the sea,
and to the adjoining island Sphagia, is a distance of about
400 stadia, and from the Alpheius a distance of 750, and
from the promontory Chelonatas 1030 stadia. In the intervening
distance are the temple of the Macistian Hercules,
and the river Acidon, which flows beside the tomb of Jardanus,
and Chaa, a city which was once near Lepreum, where also is
the Æpasian plain. It was for this Chaa, it is said, that the
Arcadians and Pylians went to war with each other, which
war Homer has mentioned, and it is thought that the verse
ought to be written,
“Oh that I were young as when multitudes of Pylii, and of Arcades,
handling the spear, fought together at the swift-flowing Acidon near the
walls of Chaa,”72
not Celadon, nor Pheia, for this place is nearer the tomb of
Jardanus and the Arcades than the other.
22. On the Triphylian Sea are situated Cyparissia, and
Pyrgi, and the rivers Acidon and Neda. At present the
boundary of Triphylia towards Messenia is the impetuous
stream of the Neda descending from the Lycæus, a mountain
of Arcadia, and rising from a source which, according to the
fable, burst forth to furnish water in which Rhea was to wash
herself after the birth of Jupiter. It flows near Phigalia, and
empties itself into the sea where the Pyrgitæ, the extreme
tribe of the Triphylii, approach the Cyparissenses, the first of
the Messenian nation. But, anciently, the country had other
boundaries, so that the dominions of Nestor included some
places on the other side of the Neda, as the Cyparisseïs, and
some others beyond that tract, in the same manner as the poet
extends the Pylian sea as far as the seven cities, which Agamemnon
promised to Achilles,
“All near the sea bordering upon the sandy Pylus,”
73
which is equivalent to, near the Pylian sea.
23. Next in order to the Cyparisseïs in traversing the
coast towards the Messenian Pylus and the Coryphasium, we
meet with Erana, (Eranna,) which some writers incorrectly
suppose was formerly called Arene, by the same name as the
Pylian city, and the promontory Platamodes, from which to
the Coryphasium, and to the place at present called Pylus, are
100 stadia.74 There is also a cenotaph and a small town in it
both of the same name—Protē.
We ought not perhaps to carry our inquiries so far into antiquity,
and it might be sufficient to describe the present state
of each place, if certain reports about them had not been delivered
down to us in childhood; but as different writers give
different accounts, it is necessary to examine them. The most
famous and the most ancient writers being the first in point
of personal knowledge of the places, are, in general, persons of
the most credit. Now as Homer surpasses all others in these
respects, we must examine what he says, and compare his
descriptions with the present state of places, as we have just
said. We have already considered his description of the
Hollow Elis and of Buprasium.
24. He describes the dominions of Nestor in these words:
“And they who inhabited Pylus, and the beautiful Arene, and Thryum,
a passage across the Alpheius, and the well-built Æpy, and Cyparisseis,
and Amphigeneia, and Pteleum, and Helos, and Dorium, where the
Muses having met with Thamyris the Thracian, deprived him of the
power of song, as he was coming from Œchalia, from the house of Eurytus
the Œchalian.”75
It is Pylus, therefore, to which the question relates, and we
shall soon treat of it. We have already spoken of Arene.
The places, which he here calls Thryum, in another passage
he calls Thryoessa,
“There is a city Thryoessa, lofty, situated on a hill,
Far off, on the banks of the Alpheius.”
76
He calls it the ford or passage of the Alpheius, because, according
to these verses, it seems as if it could be crossed at
this place on foot. Thryum is at present called Epitalium, a
village of Macistia.
With respect to εὔκτιτον Αἶπυ], “Æpy the well-built,”
some writers ask which of these words is the epithet of the
other, and what is the city, and whether it is the present Margalæ
of Amphidolia, but this Margalæ is not a natural fortress,
but another is meant, a natural stronghold in Macistia.
Writers who suppose this place to be meant, say, that Æpy is
the name of the city, and infer it from its natural properties,
as in the example of Helos,77 Ægialos,78 and many others:
those who suppose Margalæ to be meant here, will assert the
contrary.
Thryum, or Thryoessa, they say, is Epitalium, because all the
country is θρυώδης, or sedgy, and particularly the banks of the
rivers, but this appears more clearly at the fordable places of
the stream. Perhaps Thryum is meant by the ford, and by
“the well-built Æpy,” Epitalium, which is naturally strong,
and in the other part of the passage he mentions a lofty hill;
“The city Thryoessa, a lofty hill,
Far away by the Alpheus.”
79
25. Cyparisseïs is near the old Macistia, which then extended
even to the other side of the Neda, but it is not inhabited,
as neither is Macistum. There is also another, the
Messenian Cyparissia, not having quite the same name, but
one like it. The city of Macistia is at present called Cyparissia,
in the singular number, and feminine gender, but the
name of the river is Cyparisseis.
Amphigeneia, also belonging to Macistia, is near Hypsoeis,
where is the temple of Latona.
Pteleum was founded by the colony that came from Pteleum
in Thessaly, for it is mentioned in this line,
“Antron on the sea-coast, and the grassy Pteleum.”
80
It is a woody place, uninhabited, called Pteleasimum.
Some writers say, that Helos was some spot near the
Alpheius; others, that it was a city like that in Laconia,
“and Helos, a small city on the sea;”
81
others say that it is the marsh near Alorium, where is a
temple of the Eleian Artemis, (Diana of the Marsh,) belonging
to the Arcadians, for this people had the priesthood.
Dorium is said by some authors to be a mountain, by others
a plain, but nothing is now to be seen; yet it is alleged, that
the present Oluris, or Olura, situated in the Aulon, as it is
called, of Messenia, is Dorium. Somewhere there also is
Œchalia of Eurytus, the present Andania, a small Arcadian
town of the same name as those in Thessaly and Eubœa,
whence the poet says, Thamyris, the Thracian, came to Dorium,
and was deprived by the Muses of the power of song.
26. Hence it is evident that the country under the command
of Nestor is on each side of the Alpheius, all of which tract
he calls the country of the Pylians, but nowhere does the
Alpheius touch Messenia, nor the Hollow Elis.82
It is in this district that we have the native country of
Nestor, which we call the Triphylian, the Arcadian, and the
Lepreatic Pylus. For we know that other places of the name
of Pylus are pointed out, situated upon the sea, but this is
distant more than 30 stadia from it, as appears from the
poem. A messenger is sent to the vessel, to the companions
of Telemachus,—to invite them to a hospitable entertainment.
Telemachus, upon his return from Sparta, does not permit
Peisistratus to go to the city, but diverts him from it, and
prevails upon him to hasten to the ship, whence it appears
that the same road did not lead both to the city and to the
haven. The departure of Telemachus may in this manner
be aptly understood:
“they went past Cruni, and the beautiful streams of Chalcis; the sun
set, and all the villages were in shade and darkness; but the ship, exulting
in the gales of Jove, arrived at Pheæ. She passed also the divine
Elis, where the Epeii rule;”83
for to this place the direction of the vessel was towards the
north, and thence it turns to the east. The vessel leaves its
first and straight course in the direction of Ithaca, because the
suitors had placed an ambush there,
“In the strait between Ithaca and Samos,
And from thence he directed the vessel to the sharp-pointed islands, νήσοισι θοῇσι;”
84
the sharp-pointed (ὀξείαι) he calls θοαὶ. They belong to the
Echinades, and are near the commencement of the Corinthian
Gulf and the mouths of the Achelous. After having sailed
past Ithaca so as to leave the island behind him, he turns to
the proper course between Acarnania and Ithaca, and disembarks
on the other side of the island, not at the strait of
Cephallenia, where the suitors were on the watch.
27. If any one therefore should suppose that the Eleian
Pylus is the Pylus of Nestor, the ship would not properly be
said, after setting off thence, to take its course along Cruni
and Chalcis, as far as the west, then to arrive by night at
Pheæ, and afterwards to sail along the territory of Eleia, for
these places are to the south of Eleia, first Pheæ, then Chalcis,
then Cruni, then the Triphylian Pylus, and the Samicum.
In sailing then to the south from the Eleian Pylus this would
be the course. In sailing to the north, where Ithaca lies, all
these places are left behind, but they must sail along Eleia
itself, and before, although he says after, sunset. Again, on
the other side, if any one should suppose the Messenian Pylus
and the Coryphasium to be the commencement of the voyage
after leaving the country of Nestor, the distance would be
great, and would occupy more time. For the distance only
to the Triphylian Pylus and the Samian Poseidium is 400
stadia, and the voyage would not be along Cruni, and Chalcis,
and Pheæ, the names of obscure places and rivers, or rather
of streams, but first along the Neda, then Acidon, next
Alpheius, and the places and countries lying between these
rivers, and lastly, if we must mention them, along the former,
because the voyage was along the former places and rivers
also.
28. Besides, Nestor’s account of the war between the
Pylians and Eleians, which he relates to Patroclus, agrees
with our arguments, if any one examines the lines. For he
says there, that Hercules laid waste Pylus, and that all the
youth were exterminated; that out of twelve sons of Neleus,
he himself alone survived, and was a very young man, and
that the Epeii, despising Neleus on account of his old age
and destitute state, treated the Pylians with haughtiness and
insult. Nestor therefore, in order to avenge this wrong, collected
as large a body of his people as he was able, made an inroad
into Eleia, and carried away a large quantity of booty;
“Fifty herds of oxen, as many flocks of sheep,
As many herds of swine,”
85
and as many flocks of goats, an hundred and fifty brood
mares, bay-coloured, most of which had foals, and “these,”
he says,
“We drove away to Pylus, belonging to Neleus,
By night towards the city;”
86
so that the capture of the booty, and the flight of those who
came to the assistance of people who were robbed, happened
in the day-time, when, he says, he slew Itamon; and
they returned by night, so that they arrived by night at the
city. When they were engaged in dividing the booty, and in
sacrificing, the Epeii, having assembled in multitudes, on the
third day marched against them with an army of horse and
foot, and encamped about Thryum, which is situated on the
Alpheius. The Pylians were no sooner informed of this than
they immediately set out to the relief of this place, and having
passed the night on the river Minyeius near Arene, thence
arrive at the Alpheius at noon. After sacrificing to the gods,
and passing the night on the banks of the river, they immediately,
in the morning, engaged in battle. The rout of the
enemy was complete, and they did not desist from the pursuit
and slaughter, till they came to Buprasium,
“and the Olenian rock, where is a tumulus of Alesius, whence again
Minerva repulsed the multitudes;”87
and adds below,
“but the Achæi
Turned back their swift horses from Buprasium to Pylus.”
29. From these verses how can it be supposed that Eleian
or Messenian Pylus is meant. I say the Eleian, because when
this was destroyed by Hercules, the country of the Epeii also
was ravaged at the same time, that is, Eleia. How then could
those, who were of the same tribe, and who had been plundered
at that time, show such pride and insult to persons, who
were suffering under the same injuries? How could they
overrun and ravage their own country? How could Augeas
and Neleus be kings of the same people, and yet be mutual
enemies; for to Neleus
“a great debt was owing at the divine Elis; four horses, which had won
the prize; they came with their chariots to contend for prizes; they were
about to run in the race for a tripod; and Augeas, king of men, detained
them there, but dismissed the charioteer.”88
If Neleus lived there, there Nestor also lived. How then
were there
“four chiefs of Eleians and Buprasians, with ten swift ships accompanying
each, and with many Epeii embarked in them?”
The country also was divided into four parts, none of which
was subject to Nestor, but those tribes were under his command,
“who lived at Pylus, and the pleasant Arēnē,”
and at the places that follow next as far as Messene.
How came the Epeii, when marching against the Pylians, to
set out towards the Alpheius and Thryum, and after being
defeated there in battle, to fly to Buprasium? But on the
other side, if Hercules laid waste the Messenian Pylus, how
could they, who were at such a distance, treat the Pylians
with insult, or have so much intercourse and traffic with
them, and defraud them by refusing to discharge a debt, so
that war should ensue on that account? How too could
Nestor, after having got, in his marauding adventure, so large
a quantity of booty, a prey of swine and sheep, none of which
are swift-footed, nor able to go a long journey, accomplish a
march of more than 1000 stadia to Pylus near Coryphasium?
Yet all the Epeii arrive at Thryoessa and the river Alpheius
on the third day, ready to lay siege to the stronghold. How
also did these districts belong to the chiefs of Messenia, when
the Caucones, and Triphylii, and Pisatæ occupied them?
But the territory Gerena, or Gerenia, for it is written both
ways, might have a name which some persons applied designedly,
or which might have originated even in accident.
Since, however, Messenia was entirely under the dominion
of Menelaus, to whom Laconia also was subject, as will be
evident from what will be said hereafter, and since the rivers,
the Pamisus and the Nedon, flow through this country, and
not the Alpheius at all, which runs in a straight line through
the country of the Pylians, of which Nestor was ruler, can
that account be credible, by which it appears that one man
takes possession by force of the dominion of another, and
deprives him of the cities, which are said to be his property
in the Catalogue of the Ships, and makes others subject to
the usurper.
30. It remains that we speak of Olympia, and of the
manner in which everything fell into the power of the Eleii.
The temple is in the district Pisatis, at the distance of less
than 300 stadia from Elis. In front of it is a grove of wild
olive trees, where is the stadium. The Alpheius flows beside
it, taking its course out of Arcadia to the Triphylian Sea
between the west and the south. The fame of the temple
was originally owing to the oracle of the Olympian Jove;
yet after that had ceased, the renown of the temple continued,
and increased, as we know, to a high degree of celebrity,
both on account of the assembly of the people of Greece,
which was held there, and of the Olympic games, in which
the victor was crowned. These games were esteemed sacred,
and ranked above all others. The temple was decorated
with abundance of offerings, the contributions of all Greece.
Among these offerings was a Jupiter of beaten gold, presented
by Cypselus, the tyrant of Corinth. The largest was a
statue of Jupiter in ivory, the workmanship of Phidias of
Athens, the son of Charmides. Its height was so great, that
although the temple is very large, the artist seems to have
mistaken its proportions, and although he made the figure
sitting, yet the head nearly touches the roof, and presents the
appearance that, if it should rise, and stand upright, it would
unroof the temple. Some writers have given the measurement
of the statue, and Callimachus has expressed it in some
iambic verses. Panænus, the painter, his nephew, and joint
labourer, afforded great assistance in the completion of the
statue with respect to the colours with which it was ornamented,
and particularly the drapery.
There are exhibited also many and admirable pictures
around the temple, the work of this painter. It is recorded
of Phidias, that to Panænus, who was inquiring after what
model he intended to form the figure of Jupiter, he replied,
that it would be from that of Homer delineated in these words;
“He spoke, and gave the nod with his sable brows, the ambrosial hair
shook on the immortal head of the king of gods, and vast Olympus
trembled.”89
[This is well expressed, and the poet, as from other circumstances,
so particularly from the brows, suggests the thought
that he is depicting some grand conception, and great power
worthy of Jupiter. So also in his description of Juno, in
both he preserves the peculiar decorum of each character, for
he says,
“she moved herself upon the throne, and shook vast Olympus:”
90
this was effected by the motion of her whole body, but
Olympus shakes when Jupiter only nods with his brows, the
hair of his head partaking of the motion. It was elegantly
said [of Homer] that he was the only person who had
seen and had made visible the figures of the gods.]91
To the Eleii above all other people is to be ascribed the
magnificence of the temple at Olympia, and the reverence in
which it was held. For about the Trojan times, and even
before that period, they were not in a flourishing state, having
been reduced to a low condition by war with the Pylii, and
afterwards by Hercules, when Augeas their king was overthrown.
The proof is this. The Eleii sent forty ships to
Troy, but the Pylians and Nestor ninety; then after the
return of the Heracleidæ the contrary happened. For the
Ætoli returning with the Heracleidæ under the command of
Oxylus, became joint settlers with the Epeii, on the ground of
ancient affinity. They extended the bounds of Hollow Elis,
got possession of a large portion of the Pisatis, and subjected
Olympia to their power. It was these people who invented
the Olympic games,92 and instituted the first Olympiad. For
we must reject the ancient stories both respecting the foundation
of the temple, and the establishment of the games, some
alleging that Hercules, one of the Idæan Dactyli, was the
founder; others, that the son of Alcmene and Jupiter founded
them, who also was the first combatant and victor. For such
things are variously reported, and not entitled to much credit.
It is more probable, that from the first Olympiad,93 when
Corœbus the Eleian was the victor in the race in the stadium,
to the twenty-sixth, the Eleians presided over the temple, and
at the games. But in the Trojan times, either there were no
games where a crown was awarded, or they had not yet acquired
any fame, neither these nor any of the games which
are now so renowned. Homer does not speak of these games,
but of others of a different kind, which were celebrated at
funerals. Some persons however are of opinion that he does
mention the Olympic games, when he says, that Augeas detained
four victorious horses, which had been sent to contend
for the prize. It is also said that the Pisatæ did not take any
part in the Trojan war, being considered as consecrated to the
service of Jupiter. But neither was the Pisatis, the tract of
country in which Olympia is situated, subject at that time to
Augeas, but Eleia only, nor were the Olympic games celebrated
even once in the Eleian district, but always at Olympia.
But the games, of which Homer speaks, seem to have taken
place in Elis, where the debt was owing,
“For a great debt was owing in the divine Elis,
Namely, four victorious horses.”
94
But it was not in these, but in the Olympic games, that the
victor was crowned, for here they were to contend for a tripod.
After the twenty-sixth Olympiad, the Pisatæ, having recovered
their territory, instituted games themselves, when
they perceived that these games were obtaining celebrity. But
in after-times, when the territory of the Pisatis reverted to the
Eleii, the presidency and celebration of the games reverted
to them also. The Lacedæmonians too, after the last defeat of
the Messenians, co-operated with the Eleii as allies, contrary
to the conduct of the descendants of Nestor and of the Arcadians,
who were allies of the Messenians. And they assisted
them so effectually that all the country as far as Messene was
called Eleia, and the name continues even to the present time.
But of the Pisatæ, and Triphylii, and Caucones, not even the
names remain. They united also Pylus Emathoeis itself with
Lepreum in order to gratify the Lepreatæ, who had taken no
part in the war. They razed many other towns, and imposed
a tribute upon as many as were inclined to maintain their independence.
31. The Pisatis obtained the highest celebrity from the
great power of its sovereigns, Œnomaus and his successor
Pelops, and the number of their children. Salmoneus is said
to have reigned there, and one of the eight cities, into which
the Pisatis is divided, has the name of Salmone. For these
reasons, and on account of the temple at Olympia, the fame
of the country spread everywhere.
We must however receive ancient histories, as not entirely
agreeing with one another, for modern writers, entertaining
different opinions, are accustomed to contradict them frequently;
as for example, according to some writers, Augeas
was king of the Pisatis, and Œnomaus and Salmoneus kings
of Eleia, while others consider the two nations as one. Still
we ought to follow in general what is received as true, since
writers are not agreed even upon the derivation of the word
Pisatis. Some derive it from Pisa, (Πῖσα) a city of the same
name as the fountain, and say that the fountain had that name,
as much as to say Pistra, (Πίστρα) which means Potistra,
(ποτίστρα,) or “potable.” The city of Pisa is shown, situated
on an eminence between two mountains, which have the same
names as those in Thessaly, Ossa and Olympus. Some say,
that there was no such city as Pisa, for it would have been
one of the eight, but a fountain only, which is now called
Bisa, near Cicysium, the largest of the eight cities. But
Stesichorus calls the tract of country named Pisa, a city, as
the poet calls Lesbos, a city of Macar; and Euripides in the
play of Ion says
“Eubœa is a neighbour city to Athens,”
and so in the play of Rhadamanthus,
“they who occupy the land of Eubœa, an adjoining state;”
thus Sophocles also in the play of the Mysi,
“O stranger, all this country is called Asia,
But the state of the Mysi is called Mysia.”
32. Salmonē is near the fountain of the same name, the
source of the Enipeus. It discharges itself into the Alpheius,
[and at present it is called Barnichius.95] Tyro, it is said,
was enamoured of this river;
“who was enamoured of the river, the divine Enipeus.”
96
for there her father Salmoneus was king, as Euripides says in
the play of Æolus. [The river in Thessaly some call Eniseus,
which, flowing from the Othrys, receives the Apidanus, that
descends from the mountain Pharsalus.97] Near Salmonē is
Heracleia, which is one of the eight cities, distant about 40
stadia from Olympia on the river Cytherius, where there is
a temple of the nymphs, the Ioniades, who are believed to
heal diseases by means of the waters of the river.
Near Olympia is Arpīna, which also is one of the eight
cities. The river Parthenius runs through it in the direction
of the road to Pheræa. Pheræa belongs to Arcadia. [It is
situated above Dymæa, Buprasium, and Elis, which lie to the
north of the Pisatis.98] There also is Cicysium, one of the
eight cities; and Dyspontium, on the road from Elis to
Olympia, situated in a plain. But it was razed, and the
greatest part of the inhabitants removed to Epidamnus and
Apollonia.
Above and so very near Olympia, is Pholoe, an Arcadian
mountain, that the country at its foot belongs to the Pisatis.
Indeed the whole of the Pisatis and a great part of Triphylia
border upon Arcadia. For this reason, most of the places, which
have the name of Pylian in the Catalogue of the Ships, seem to
be Arcadian. Persons, however, who are well informed, say,
that the river Erymanthus, one of those that empty themselves
into the Alpheius, is the boundary of Arcadia, and that
the places called Pylian are beyond the Erymanthus.
33. According to Ephorus, “Ætolus, being banished by
Salmoneus, king of the Epeii, and the Pisatæ, from Eleia to
Ætolia, called the country after his own name, and settled
the cities there. His descendant Oxylus was the friend of
Temenus, and the Heracleidæ his companions, and was their
guide on their journey to Peloponnesus; he divided among
them the hostile territory, and suggested instructions relative
to the acquisition of the country. In return for these services
he was to be requited by the restoration of Elis, which had belonged
to his ancestors. He returned with an army collected
out of Ætolia, for the purpose of attacking the Epeii, who
occupied Elis. On the approach of the Epeii in arms, when the
forces were drawn up in array against each other, there advanced
in front, and engaged in single combat according to an
ancient custom of the Greeks, Pyræchmes, an Ætolian, and
Degmenus, an Epeian: the latter was lightly armed with a
bow, and thought to vanquish easily from a distance a heavy-armed
soldier; the former, when he perceived the stratagem
of his adversary, provided himself with a sling, and a scrip
filled with stones. The kind of sling also happened to have
been lately invented by the Ætolians. As a sling reaches its
object at a greater distance than a bow, Degmenus fell; the
Ætolians took possession of the country, and ejected the Epeii.
They assumed also the superintendence of the temple at
Olympia, which the Epeii exercised; and on account of the
friendship which subsisted between Oxylus and the Heracleidæ,
it was generally agreed upon, and confirmed by an oath, that
the Eleian territory was sacred to Jupiter, and that any one
who invaded that country with an army, was a sacrilegious
person: he also was to be accounted sacrilegious, who did not
defend it against the invader to the utmost of his power. It
was for this reason, that the later founders of the city left it
without walls, and those who are passing through the country
with an army, deliver up their arms and receive them again
upon quitting the borders. Iphitus instituted there the
Olympic games, because the Eleians were a sacred people.
Hence it was that they increased in numbers, for while other
nations were continually engaged in war with each other, they
alone enjoyed profound peace, and not themselves only, but
strangers also, so that on this account they were a more
populous state than all the others.”
Pheidon the Argive was the tenth in descent from Temenus,
and the most powerful prince of his age; he was the inventor of
the weights and measures called Pheidonian, and stamped
money, silver in particular. He recovered the whole inheritance
of Temenus, which had been severed into many portions.
He attacked also the cities which Hercules had formerly taken,
and claimed the privilege of celebrating the games which
Hercules had established, and among these the Olympian
games. He entered their country by force and celebrated the
games, for the Eleians had no army to prevent it, as they were
in a state of peace, and the rest were oppressed by his power.
The Eleians however did not solemnly inscribe in their records
this celebration of the games, but on this occasion procured
arms, and began to defend themselves. The Lacedæmonians
also afforded assistance, either because they were jealous of the
prosperity, which was the effect of the peaceful state of the
Eleians, or because they supposed that they should have the
aid of the Eleians in destroying the power of Pheidon, who
had deprived them of the sovereignty ἡγεμονίαν of Peloponnesus,
which they before possessed. They succeeded in
their joint attempt to overthrow Pheidon, and the Eleians
with this assistance obtained possession of Pisatis and Triphylia.
The whole of the coasting voyage along the present Eleian
territory comprises, with the exception of the bays, 1200
stadia.
So much then respecting the Eleian territory.
1. Messenia is continuous with the Eleian territory, inclining
for the most part towards the south, and the Libyan Sea.
Being part of Laconia, it was subject in the Trojan times to
Menelaus. The name of the country was Messene. But the
present city called Messene, the acropolis of which was Ithome,
was not then founded. After the death of Menelaus, when
the power of those who succeeded to the possession of Laconia
was altogether weakened, the Neleidæ governed Messenia.
At the time of the return of the Heracleidæ, and according
to the partition of the country at that time, Melanthus was
king of the Messenians, who were a separate community, but
formerly subject to Menelaus. As a proof of this, in the
space from the Messenian Gulf and the continuous gulf, (called
the Asinæan from the Messenian Asine,) were situated the
seven cities which Agamemnon promised to Achilles;
“Cardamyle, Enope, the grassy Hira, the divine Pheræ,99 Antheia with
rich meadows, the beautiful Æpeia, and Pedasus abounding with vines.”100
He certainly would not have promised what did not belong
either to himself or to his brother. The poet mentions those,
who accompanied Menelaus from Pheræ to the war,101 and speaks
of (Œtylus) in the Laconian catalogue, a city situated on the
Gulf of Messenia.
Messene follows next to Triphylia. The promontory, after
which are the Coryphasium and Cyparissia, is common to
both. At the distance of 7 stadia is a mountain, the Ægaleum,
situated above Coryphasium and the sea.
2. The ancient Messenian Pylus was a city lying below
the Ægaleum, and after it was razed, some of the inhabitants
settled under the Coryphasium. But the Athenians
in their second expedition against Sicily, under the command
of Eurymedon and Stratocles, got possession of it, and used
it as a stronghold against the Lacedæmonians.102 Here also
is the Messenian Cyparissia, (and the island Prote,) lying close
to Pylus, the island Sphagia, called also Sphacteria. It was
here that the Lacedæmonians lost three hundred men,103 who
were besieged by the Athenians and taken prisoners.
Two islands, called Strophades,104 belonging to the Cyparissii,
lie off at sea in front of this coast, at the distance of
about 400 stadia from the continent, in the Libyan and southern
sea. According to Thucydides this Pylus was the naval
station of the Messenians. It is distant from Sparta 400 stadia.
3. Next is Methone.105 This city, called by the poet Pedasus,
was one of the seven, it is said, which Agamemnon promised
to Achilles. There Agrippa killed, in the Actian war,
Bogus, the king of the Maurusii, a partisan of Antony’s,
having got possession of the place by an attack by sea.
4. Continuous with Methone is Acritas,106 where the Messenian
Gulf begins, which they call also Asinæus from Asine, a
small city, the first we meet with on the gulf, and having the
same name as the Hermionic Asine.
This is the commencement of the gulf towards the west.
Towards the east are the Thyrides,107 as they are called, bordering
upon the present Laconia near Cænepolis,108 and Tænarum.
In the intervening distance, if we begin from the Thyrides,
we meet with Œtylus,109 by some called Beitylus; then Leuctrum,
a colony of the Leuctri in Bœotia; next, situated upon
a steep rock, Cardamyle;110 then Pheræ, bordering upon Thuria,
and Gerenia, from which place they say Nestor had the
epithet Gerenian, because he escaped thither, as we have
mentioned before. They show in the Gerenian territory a
temple of Æsculapius Triccæus, copied from that at the Thessalian
Tricca. Pelops is said to have founded Leuctrum, and
Charadra, and Thalami, now called the Bœotian Thalami,
having brought with him, when he married his sister Niobe
to Amphion, some colonists from Bœotia.
The Nedon, a different river from the Neda, flows through
Laconia, and discharges its waters near Pheræ. It has upon
its banks a remarkable temple of the Nedusian Minerva. At
Pœaessa also there is a temple of the Nedusian Minerva,
which derives its name from a place called Nedon,111 whence,
they say, Teleclus colonized Pœaessa,112 and Echeiæ, and
Tragium.
5. With respect to the seven cities promised to Achilles, we
have already spoken of Cardamyle, and Pheræ, and Pedasus.
Enope, some say is Pellana; others, some place near Cardamyle;
others, Gerenia.113 Hira is pointed out near a mountain
in the neighbourhood of Megalopolis114 in Arcadia, on the road
to Andania, which we have said is called by the poet Œchalia.
Others say that the present Mesola was called Hira,
which extends to the bay situated between Taÿgetum and
Messenia. Æpeia is now called Thuria, which we said bordered
upon Pheræ. It is situated upon a lofty hill, whence
its name.115 The Thuriatic Gulf has its name from Thuria;
upon the gulf is a single city, named Rhium, opposite Tænarum.
Some say that Antheia is Thuria, and Æpeia Methone;
others, that Antheia is Asine, situated between Methone and
Thuria, to which, of all the Messenian cities, the description,
“with its rich pastures,” is most appropriate. Near it on the sea
is Corone. There are some writers who say that this town is
called Pedasus by the poet. These cities are “all near the
sea;” Cardamyle close to it; Pheræ at the distance of 5
stadia, having an anchorage, which is used in the summer.
The rest are situated at unequal distances from the sea.
6. Near Corone, about the middle of the gulf, the river
Pamisus116 discharges itself, having, on the right hand, this
city, and the rest in succession, the last of which, towards the
west, are Pylus and Cyparissia, and between these is Erana,
which some writers erroneously suppose to be the ancient
Arene; on the left hand it has Thyria and Pheræ. It is the
largest (in width) of the rivers within the isthmus, although
its course from its springs does not exceed 100 stadia in
length; it has an abundant supply of water, and traverses the
Messenian plain, and the district called Macaria.117 It is distant
from the present city of the Messenians 50 stadia.118 There
is also another Pamisus, a small torrent stream, running near
Leuctrum of Laconia, which was a subject of dispute between
the Messenians and Lacedæmonians in the time of Philip.
I have before said that some persons called the Pamisus,
Amathus.119
7. Ephorus relates that Cresphontes, after he had taken Messene,
divided it into five cities, and chose Stenyclarus, situated
in the middle of this district, to be the royal seat of his kingdom.
To the other cities, Pylus, Rhium, (Mesola,) and
Hyameitis, he appointed kings, and put all the Messenians on
an equal footing with the Dorians as to rights and privileges.
The Dorians, however, taking offence, he changed his intention,
and determined that Stenyclarus alone should have the
rank of a city, and here he assembled all the Dorians.
8. The city of the Messenians120 resembles Corinth, for above
each city is a lofty and precipitous mountain, enclosed by a
common wall in such a manner as to be used as an acropolis;
the Messenian mountain is Ithome,121 that near Corinth is
Acrocorinthus. Demetrius of Pharos seemed to have counselled
Philip the son of Demetrius well, when he advised him
to make himself master of both cities, if he desired to get
possession of Peloponnesus; “for,” said he, “when you have
seized both horns, the cow will be your own;” meaning, by
the horns, Ithome and Acrocorinthus, and, by the cow, Peloponnesus.
It was no doubt their convenient situation which
made these cities subjects of contention. The Romans therefore
razed Corinth, and again rebuilt it. The Lacedæmonians
destroyed Messene, and the Thebans, and subsequently Philip,
the son of Amyntas, restored it. The citadels however continued
unoccupied.
9. The temple of Diana in Limnæ (in the Marshes), where
the Messenians are supposed to have violated the virgins who
came there to offer sacrifice, is on the confines of Laconia and
Messenia, where the inhabitants of both countries usually celebrated
a common festival, and performed sacrifices; but after
the violation of the virgins, the Messenians did not make any
reparation, and war, it is said, ensued. The Limnæan temple of
Diana at Sparta is said to have its name from the Limnæ here.
10. There were frequent wars (between the Lacedæmonians
and Messenians) on account of the revolts of the Messenians.
Tyrtæus mentions, in his poems, that their first subjugation
was in the time of their grandfathers;122 the second, when in
conjunction with their allies the Eleians [Arcadians], Argives,
and Pisatæ, they revolted; the leader of the Arcadians
was Aristocrates, king of Orchomenus, and of the Pisatæ,
Pantaleon, son of Omphalion. In this war, Tyrtæus says, he
himself commanded the Lacedæmonian army, for in his elegiac
poem, entitled Eunomia, he says he came from Erineum;
“for Jupiter himself, the son of Saturn, and husband of Juno with the
beautiful crown, gave this city to the Heracleidæ, with whom we left the
windy Erineum, and arrived at the spacious island of Pelops.”
Wherefore we must either invalidate the authority of the
elegiac verses, or we must disbelieve Philochorus, and Callisthenes,
and many other writers, who say that he came from
Athens, or Aphidnæ, at the request of the Lacedæmonians,
whom an oracle had enjoined to receive a commander from
the Athenians.
The second war then occurred in the time of Tyrtæus.
But they mention a third, and even a fourth war, in which the
Messenians were destroyed.123
The whole voyage along the Messenian coast comprises
about 800 stadia, including the measurement of the bays.
11. I have exceeded the limits of moderation in this description,
by attending to the multitude of facts which are related
of a country, the greatest part of which is deserted.
Even Laconia itself is deficient in population, if we compare
its present state with its ancient populousness. For, with the
exception of Sparta, the remaining small cities are about
thirty; but, anciently, Laconia had the name of Hecatompolis,
and that for this reason hecatombs were annually sacrificed.
1. Next after the Messenian is the Laconian Gulf, situated
between Tænarum and Maleæ, declining a little from the
south to the east. Thyrides, a precipitous rock, beaten by
the waves, is in the Messenian Gulf, and distant from Tænarum
100 stadia. Above is Taÿgetum, a lofty and perpendicular
mountain, at a short distance from the sea, approaching
on the northern side close to the Arcadian mountains, so as to
leave between them a valley, where Messenia is continuous
with Laconia.
At the foot of Taÿgetum, in the inland parts, lie Sparta
and Amyclæ,124 where is the temple of Apollo, and Pharis. The
site of Sparta is in rather a hollow, although it comprises
mountains within it; no part of it, however, is marshy,
although, anciently, the suburbs were so, which were called
Limnæ. The temple of Bacchus, also in Limnæ, was in a wet
situation, but now stands on a dry ground.
In the bay on the coast is Tænarum, a promontory projecting
into the sea.125 Upon it, in a grove, is the temple of
Neptune, and near the temple a cave, through which, according
to the fable, Cerberus was brought up by Hercules from
Hades. Thence to the promontory Phycus in Cyrenaica, is
a passage across towards the south of 3000 stadia; and to
Pachynus, towards the west, the promontory of Sicily, 4600,
or, according to some writers, 4000 stadia; to Maleæ, towards
the east, including the measurement of the bays, 670 stadia;
to Onugnathus,126 a low peninsula a little within Maleæ, 520
stadia. (In front of Onugnathus, at the distance of 40 stadia,
lies Cythera,127 an island with a good harbour, and a city of the
same name, which was the private property of Eurycles, the
commander of the Lacedæmonians in our time. It is surrounded
by several small islands, some near it, others lying
somewhat farther off.) To Corycus, a promontory of Crete,
the nearest passage by sea is 250 stadia.128
2. Next to Tænarum on the voyage to Onugnathus and to
Maleæ129 is Amathus, (Psamathus,) a city; then follow Asine,
and Gythium,130 the naval arsenal of Sparta, situated at an interval
of 240 stadia. Its station for vessels, they say, is excavated
by art. Farther on, between Gythium and Acræa, is
the mouth of the Eurotas.131 To this place the voyage along the
coast is about 240 stadia; then succeeds a marshy tract, and
a village, Helos, which formerly was a city, according to Homer;
“They who occupied Amyclæ, and Helos, a small town on the sea-coast.”132
They say that it was founded by Helius the son of Perseus.
There is a plain also call Leuce; then Cyparissia,133 a city
upon a peninsula, with a harbour; then Onugnathus with
a harbour; next Bœa, a city; then Maleæ. From these
cities to Onugnathus are 150 stadia. There is also Asopus,134
a city in Laconia.
3. Among the places enumerated by Homer in the Catalogue
of the Ships, Messa, they say, is no longer to be found;
and that Messoa is not a part of Laconia, but a part of Sparta
itself, as was the Limnæum near Thornax. Some understand
Messē to be a contraction of Messene, for it is said that this
was a part of Laconia. [They allege as examples from the
poet, the words “cri,” and “do,” and “maps,”135 and this passage
also;
“The horses were yoked by Automedon and Alcimus,”
136
instead of Alcimedon. And the words of Hesiod, who uses
βρῖ for βριθὺ and βριαρὸν; and Sophocles and Io, who have ῥᾳ
for ῥᾴδιον; and Epicharmus, λῖ for λίαν, and Συρακὼ for Συράκουσαι;
Empedocles also has ὂψ for ὄψις (μία γίγνεται ἀμφοτέρων ὄψ or ὄψις); and Antimachus, Δήμητρός τοι Ἐλευσινίης ἱερὴ ὄψ,
and ἄλφι for ἄλφιτον; Euphorion has ἧλ for ἧλος; Philetes
has δμωίδες εἰς ταλάρους λευκὸν ἄγουσιν ἔρι for ἔριον; Aratus,
εἰς ἄνεμον δὲ τὰ πηδά for τὰ πηδάλια; Simmias, Dodo for
Dodona.]137
Of the rest of the places mentioned by the poet, some are
extinct; of others traces remain, and of others the names are
changed, as Augeiæ into Ægææ: [the city] of that name in
Locris exists no longer. With respect to Las, the Dioscuri
are said to have taken it by siege formerly, whence they had
the name of Lapersæ, (Destroyers of Las,) and Sophocles says
somewhere, “by the two Lapersæ, by Eurotas, by the gods
in Argos and Sparta.”
4. Ephorus says that the Heracleidæ, Eurysthenes and
Procles, having obtained possession of Laconia, divided it into
six parts, and founded cities throughout the country, and assigned
Amyclæ to him who betrayed to them Laconia, and
who prevailed upon the person that occupied it to retire, on
certain conditions, with the Achæi, into Ionia. Sparta they retained
themselves as the royal seat of the kingdom. To the
other cities they sent kings, permitting them to receive whatever
strangers might be disposed to settle there, on account of
the scarcity of inhabitants. Las was used as a naval station,
because it had a convenient harbour; Ægys, as a stronghold,
from whence to attack surrounding enemies; Pheræa, as a
place to deposit treasure, because it afforded security from138 attempts
from without. * * * * that all the neighbouring
people submitted to the Spartiatæ, but were to enjoy an
equality of rights, and to have a share in the government and
in the offices of state. They were called Heilotæ. But Agis,
the son of Eurysthenes, deprived them of the equality of
rights, and ordered them to pay tribute to Sparta. The rest
submitted; but the Heleii, who occupied Helos, revolted, and
were made prisoners in the course of the war; they were adjudged
to be slaves, with the conditions, that the owner should
not be allowed to give them their liberty, nor sell them beyond
the boundaries of the country. This was called the war
of the Heilotæ.139 The system of Heilote-slavery, which continued
from that time to the establishment of the dominion of
the Romans, was almost entirely the contrivance of Agis.
They were a kind of public slaves, to whom the Lacedæmonians
assigned habitations, and required from them peculiar
services.
5. With respect to the government of the Lacones, and the
changes which have taken place among them, many things,
as being well known, may be passed over, but some it may be
worth while to relate. It is said that the Achæan Phthiotæ,
who, with Pelops, made an irruption into Peloponnesus, settled
in Laconia, and were so much distinguished for their valour,
that Peloponnesus, which for a long period up to this time
had the name of Argos, was then called Achæan Argos; and
not Peloponnesus alone had this name, but Laconia also was
thus peculiarly designated. Some even understand the words
of the poet,
“Where was Menelaus, was he not at Achæan Argos?”
140
as implying, was he not in Laconia? But about the time of
the return of the Heracleidæ, when Philonomus betrayed the
country to the Dorians, they removed from Laconia to the
country of the Ionians, which at present is called Achaia. We
shall speak of them in our description of Achaia.
Those who were in possession of Laconia, at first conducted
themselves with moderation, but after they had intrusted to
Lycurgus the formation of a political constitution, they acquired
such a superiority over the other Greeks, that they
alone obtained the sovereignty both by sea and land, and continued
to be the chiefs of the Greeks, till the Thebans, and
soon afterwards the Macedonians, deprived them of this ascendency.
They did not however entirely submit even to these, but,
preserving their independence, were continually disputing the
sovereignty both with the other Greeks and with the Macedonian
kings. After the overthrow of the latter by the
Romans, the Lacones living under a bad government at that
time, and under the power of tyrants, had given some slight
offence to the generals whom the Romans sent into the province.
They however recovered themselves, and were held
in very great honour. They remained free, and performed no
other services but those expected from allies. Lately however
Eurycles141 excited some disturbances amongst them, having
abused excessively, in the exercise of his authority, the friendship
of Cæsar. The government soon came to an end by the
death of Eurycles, and the son rejected all such friendships.
The Eleuthero-Lacones142 however did obtain some regular
form of government, when the surrounding people, and especially
the Heilotæ, at the time that Sparta was governed by
tyrants, were the first to attach themselves to the Romans.
Hellanicus says that Eurysthenes and Procles regulated the
form of government, but Ephorus reproaches him with not
mentioning Lycurgus at all, and with ascribing the acts of the
latter to persons who had no concern in them; to Lycurgus
only is a temple erected, and sacrifices are annually performed
in his honour, but to Eurysthenes and Procles, although they
were the founders of Sparta, yet not even these honours were
paid to them, that their descendants should bear the respective
appellations of Eurysthenidæ and Procleidæ.143 [The descendants
of Agis, however, the son of Eurysthenes, were called
Agides, and the descendants of Eurypon, the son of Procles,
were called Eurypontiadæ. The former were legitimate
princes; the others, having admitted strangers as settlers,
reigned by their means; whence they were not regarded as
original authors of the settlement, an honour usually conferred
upon all founders of cities.]
6. As to the nature of the places in Laconia and Messenia,
we may take the description of Euripides;144
“Laconia has much land capable of tillage, but difficult to be worked,
for it is hollow, surrounded by mountains, rugged, and difficult of access
to an enemy.”
Messenia he describes in this manner:
“It bears excellent fruit; is watered by innumerable streams; it affords
the finest pasture to herds and flocks; it is not subject to the blasts of
winter, nor too much heated by the coursers of the sun;”
and a little farther on, speaking of the division of the country
by the Heracleidæ according to lot, the first was
“lord of the Lacænian land, a bad soil,”
the second was Messene,
“whose excellence no language could express;”
and Tyrtæus speaks of it in the same manner.
But we cannot admit that Laconia and Messenia are
bounded, as Euripides says,
“by the Pamisus,
145 which empties itself into the sea;”
this river flows through the middle of Messenia, and does not
touch any part of the present Laconia. Nor is he right, when
he says that Messenia is inaccessible to sailors, whereas it
borders upon the sea, in the same manner as Laconia.
Nor does he give the right boundaries of Elis;
“after passing the river is Elis, the neighbour of Jove;”
and he adduces a proof unnecessarily. For if he means the
present Eleian territory, which is on the confines of Messenia,
this the Pamisus does not touch, any more than it touches Laconia,
for, as has been said before, it flows through the middle
of Messenia: or, if he meant the ancient Eleia, called the Hollow,
this is a still greater deviation from the truth. For after
crossing the Pamisus, there is a large tract of the Messenian
country, then the whole district of [the Lepreatæ], and of the
[Macistii], which is called Triphylia; then the Pisatis, and
Olympia; then at the distance of 300 stadia is Elis.
7. As some persons write the epithet applied by Homer to
Lacedæmon, κητώεσσαν, and others καιετάεσσαν, how are we to
understand κητώεσσα, whether it is derived from Cetos,146 or
whether it denotes “large,” which is most probable. Some
understand καιετάεσσα to signify, “abounding with calaminthus;”
others suppose, as the fissures occasioned by earthquakes
are called Cæeti, that this is the origin of the epithet.
Hence Cæietas also, the name of the prison among the Lacedæmonians,
which is a sort of cave. Some however say, that
such kind of hollows are rather called Coi, whence the expression
of Homer,147 applied to wild beasts, φηρσὶν ὀρεσκῴοισιν,
which live in mountain caves. Laconia however is subject to
earthquakes, and some writers relate, that certain peaks of
Taÿgetum have been broken off by the shocks.148
Laconia contains also quarries of valuable marble. Those
of the Tænarian marble in Tænarum149 are ancient, and certain
persons, assisted by the wealth of the Romans, lately opened a
large quarry in Taÿgetum.
8. It appears from Homer, that both the country and the
city had the name of Lacedæmon; I mean the country together
with Messenia. When he speaks of the bow and
quiver of Ulysses, he says,
“A present from Iphitus Eurytides, a stranger, who met him in Lacedæmon,”150
and adds,
“They met at Messene in the house of Ortilochus.”
He means the country which was a part of Messenia.151 There
was then no difference whether he said “A stranger, whom he
met at Lacedæmon, gave him,” or, “they met at Messene;”
for it is evident that Pheræ was the home of Ortilochus:
“they arrived at Pheræ, and went to the house of Diocles the son of Ortilochus,”152
namely, Telemachus and Pisistratus. Now Pheræ153 belongs to
Messenia. But after saying, that Telemachus and his friend
set out from Pheræ, and were driving their two horses the
whole day, he adds,
“The sun was setting; they came to the hollow Lacedæmon (κητώεσσαν),
and drove their chariot to the palace of Menelaus.”154
Here we must understand the city; and if we do not, the poet
says, that they journeyed from Lacedæmon to Lacedæmon.
It is not otherwise improbable that the palace of Menelaus should
not be at Sparta; and if it was not there, that Telemachus
should say,
“for I am going to Sparta, and to Pylus,”
155
for this seems to agree with the epithets applied to the country,156
unless indeed any one should allow this to be a poetical
licence; for, if Messenia was a part of Laconia, it would be a
contradiction that Messene should not be placed together with
Laconia, or with Pylus, (which was under the command of
Nestor,) nor by itself in the Catalogue of Ships, as though it
had no part in the expedition.
1. After Maleæ follow the Argolic and Hermionic Gulfs;
the former extends as far as Scyllæum,157 it looks to the east,
and towards the Cyclades;158 the latter lies still more towards
the east than the former, reaching Ægina and the Epidaurian
territory.159 The Laconians occupy the first part of the
Argolic Gulf, and the Argives the rest. Among the places
occupied by the Laconians are Delium,160 a temple of Apollo, of
the same name as that in Bœotia; Minoa, a fortress of the
same name as that in Megara; and according to Artemidorus,
Epidaurus Limera;161 Apollodorus, however, places it near
Cythera,162 and having a convenient harbour, (λιμὴν, limen,) it
was called Limenera, which was altered by contraction to Limera.
A great part of the coast of Laconia, beginning immediately
from Maleæ, is rugged. It has however shelters
for vessels, and harbours. The remainder of the coast has
good ports; there are also many small islands, not worthy of
mention, lying in front of it.
2. To the Argives belong Prasiæ,163 and Temenium164 where
Temenus lies buried. Before coming to Temenium is the district
through which the river Lerna flows, that having the same
name as the lake, where is laid the scene of the fable of the
Hydra. The Temenium is distant from Argos 26 stadia from
the sea-coast; from Argos to Heræum are 40, and thence to
Mycenæ 10 stadia.
Next to Temenium is Nauplia, the naval station of the
Argives. Its name is derived from its being accessible to
ships. Here they say the fiction of the moderns originated
respecting Nauplius and his sons, for Homer would not have
omitted to mention them, if Palamedes displayed so much
wisdom and intelligence, and was unjustly put to death; and
if Nauplius had destroyed so many people at Caphareus.165 But
the genealogy offends both against the mythology, and against
chronology. For if we allow that he was the son of Neptune,166
how could he be the son of Amymone, and be still living in
the Trojan times.
Next to Nauplia are caves, and labyrinths constructed in
them, which caves they call Cyclopeia.
3. Then follow other places, and after these the Hermionic
Gulf. Since the poet places this gulf in the Argive territory,
we must not overlook this division of the circumference of
this country. It begins from the small city Asine;167 then
follow Hermione,168 and Trœzen.169 In the voyage along the
coast the island Calauria170 lies opposite; it has a compass of
30 stadia, and is separated from the continent by a strait of
4 stadia.
4. Then follows the Saronic Gulf; some call it a Pontus or
sea, others a Porus or passage, whence it is also termed the
Saronic pelagos or deep. The whole of the passage, or Porus,
extending from the Hermionic Sea, and the sea about the
Isthmus (of Corinth) to the Myrtoan and Cretan Seas, has this
name.
To the Saronic Gulf belong Epidaurus,171 and the island in
front of it, Ægina; then Cenchreæ, the naval station of the
Corinthians towards the eastern parts; then Schœnus,172 a harbour
at the distance of 45 stadia by sea; from Maleæ the
whole number of stadia is about 1800.
At Schœnus is the Diolcus, or place where they draw the
vessels across the Isthmus: it is the narrowest part of it.
Near Schœnus is the temple of the Isthmian Neptune. At
present, however, I shall not proceed with the description of
these places, for they are not situated within the Argive territory,
but resume the account of those which it contains.
5. And first, we may observe how frequently Argos is
mentioned by the poet, both by itself and with the epithet designating
it as Achæan Argos, Argos Jasum, Argos Hippium,
or Hippoboton, or Pelasgicum. The city, too, is called Argos,
those who occupied Argos
and Peloponnesus is called Argos,
“at our house in Argos,”
175
for the city could not be called his house; and he calls the
whole of Greece, Argos, for he calls all Argives, as he calls
them Danai, and Achæans.
He distinguishes the identity of name by epithets; he calls
Thessaly, Pelasgic Argos;
“all who dwelt in Pelasgic Argos;”
176
and the Peloponnesus, the Achæan Argos;
“if we should return to Achæan Argos;”
177
“was he not at Achæan Argos?”
178
intimating in these lines that the Peloponnesians were called
peculiarly Achæans according to another designation.
He calls also the Peloponnesus, Argos Jasum;
“if all the Achæans throughout Argos Jasum should see you,”
179
meaning Penelope, she then would have a greater number of
suitors; for it is not probable that he means those from the
whole of Greece, but those from the neighbourhood of Ithaca.
He applies also to Argos terms common to other places,
“pasturing horses,” and “abounding with horses.”
6. There is a controversy about the names Hellas and Hellenes.
Thucydides180 says that Homer nowhere mentions Barbarians,
because the Greeks were not distinguished by any
single name, which expressed its opposite. Apollodorus also
says, that the inhabitants of Thessaly alone were called Hellenes,
and alleges this verse of the poet,
“they were called Myrmidones, and Hellenes;”
181
but Hesiod, and Archilochus, in their time knew that they
were all called Hellenes, and Panhellenes: the former calls
them by this name in speaking of the Prœtides, and says that
Panhellenes were their suitors; the latter, where he says
“that the calamities of the Panhellenes centred in Thasus.”
But others oppose to this, that Homer does mention Barbarians,
when he says of the Carians, that they spoke a barbarous
language, and that all the Hellenes were comprised in
the term Hellas;
“of the man, whose fame spread throughout Hellas and Argos.”
182
And again,
“but if you wish to turn aside and pass through Greece and the midst of
Argos.”183
7. The greater part of the city of the Argives is situated in
a plain. It has a citadel called Larisa, a hill moderately fortified,
and upon it a temple of Jupiter. Near it flows the Inachus,
a torrent river; its source is in Lyrceium [the Arcadian
mountain near Cynuria]. We have said before that the
fabulous stories about its sources are the inventions of poets;
it is a fiction also that Argos is without water—
“but the gods made Argos a land without water.”
Now the ground consists of hollows, it is intersected by rivers,
and is full of marshes and lakes; the city also has a copious
supply of water from many wells, which rises near the surface.
They attribute the mistake to this verse,
“and I shall return disgraced to Argos (πολυδίψιον) the very thirsty.”
184
This word is used for πολυπόθητον, or
or without the δ for πολυίψιον, equivalent to the expression
πολύφθορον in Sophocles,
“this house of the Pelopidæ abounding in slaughter,”
185
[for προϊάψαι and ἰάψαι and ἴψασθαι, denote some injury or
destruction;
“at present he is making the attempt, and he will soon destroy (ἴψεται)
the sons of the Achæi;”186
and again, lest
“she should injure (ἰάψῃ) her beautiful skin;”
187
and,
“has prematurely sent down, προΐαψεν, to Ades.”
188]
189
Besides, he does not mean the city Argos, for it was not
thither that he was about to return, but he meant Peloponnesus,
which, certainly, is not a thirsty land.
With respect to the letter δ, they introduce the conjunction
by the figure hyperbaton, and make an elision of the vowel,
so that the verse would run thus,
Καί κεν ἐλέγχιστος πολὺ δ’ ἴψιον Ἄργος ἱκοίμην,
that is, πολυίψιον Ἄργοσδε ἱκοίμην, instead of, εἰς Ἄργος.
8. The Inachus190 is one of the rivers, which flows through
the Argive territory; there is also another in Argia, the
Erasīnus. It has its source in Stymphalus in Arcadia, and in
the lake there called Stymphalis, where the scene is laid of
the fable of the birds called Stymphalides, which Hercules
drove away by wounding them with arrows, and by the noise
of drums. It is said that this river passes under-ground, and
issues forth in the Argian territory, and waters the plain.
The Erasīnus is also called Arsīnus.
Another river of the same name flows out of Arcadia to
the coast near Buras. There is another Erasinus also in
Eretria, and one in Attica near Brauron.
Near Lerna a fountain is shown, called Amymone. The
lake Lerna, the haunt of the Hydra, according to the fable,
belongs to the Argive and Messenian districts. The expiatory
purifications performed at this place by persons guilty
of crimes gave rise to the proverb, “A Lerna of evils.”
It is allowed that, although the city itself lies in a spot where
there are no running streams of water, there is an abundance
of wells, which are attributed to the Danaïdes as their invention;
hence the line,
“the Danaïdes made waterless Argos, Argos the watered.”
Four of the wells are esteemed sacred, and held in peculiar
veneration. Hence they occasioned a want of water, while
they supplied it abundantly.
9. Danaus is said to have built the citadel of the Argives.
He seems to have possessed so much more power than the
former rulers of the country, that, according to Euripides,
“he made a law that those who were formerly called Pelasgiotæ, should
be called Danai throughout Greece.”
His tomb, called Palinthus, is in the middle of the market-place
of the Argives. I suppose that the celebrity of this city
was the reason of all the Greeks having the name of Pelasgiotæ,
and Danai, as well as Argives.
Modern writers speak of Iasidæ, and Argos Iasum, and
Apia, and Apidones. Homer does not mention Apidones, and
uses the word apia only to express distance. That he means
Peloponnesus by Argos we may conclude from these lines,
and,
“in the farthest part of Argos is a city Ephyra;”
192
and,
“the middle of Argos;”
193
and,
“to rule over many islands, and the whole of Argos.”
194
Argos, among modern writers, denotes a plain, but not once
in Homer. It seems rather a Macedonian and Thessalian
use of the word.
10. After the descendants of Danaus had succeeded to the
sovereignty at Argos, and the Amythaonidæ, who came from
Pisatis and Triphylia, were intermixed with them by marriages,
it is not surprising that, being allied to one another,
they at first divided the country into two kingdoms, in such a
manner that the two cities, the intended capitals, Argos and
Mycenæ, were not distant from each other more than 50 stadia,
and that the Heræum at Mycenæ should be a temple common
to both. In this temple were the statues the workmanship of
Polycletus. In display of art they surpassed all others, but
in magnitude and cost they were inferior to those of Pheidias.
At first Argos was the most powerful of the two cities. Afterwards
Mycenæ received a great increase of inhabitants in
consequence of the migration thither of the Pelopidæ. For when
everything had fallen under the power of the sons of Atreus,
Agamemnon, the elder, assumed the sovereign authority, and
by good fortune and valour annexed to his possessions a large
tract of country. He also added the Laconian to the Mycenæan
district.195 Menelaus had Laconia, and Agamemnon Mycenæ,
and the country as far as Corinth, and Sicyon, and the territory
which was then said to be the country of Iones and
Ægialians, and afterwards of Achæi.
After the Trojan war, when the dominion of Agamemnon was
at an end, the declension of Mycenæ ensued, and particularly
after the return of the Heracleidæ.196 For when these people
got possession of Peloponnesus, they expelled its former masters,
so that they who had Argos possessed Mycenæ likewise,
as composing one body. In subsequent times Mycenæ was
razed by the Argives, so that at present not even a trace is to
be discovered of the city of the Mycenæans.197
If Mycenæ experienced this fate, it is not surprising that
some of the cities mentioned in the Catalogue of the Ships,
and said to be subject to Argos, have disappeared. These are
the words of the Catalogue:
“They who occupied Argos, and Tiryns, with strong walls, and Hermione,
and Asine situated on a deep bay, and Eïones, and Epidaurus with its
vines, and the valiant Achæan youths who occupied Ægina, and Mases.”198
Among these we have already spoken of Argos; we must now
speak of the rest.
11. Prœtus seems to have used Tiryns as a stronghold,
and to have fortified it by means of the Cyclopes. There
were seven of them, and were called Gasterocheires,199 because
they subsisted by their art. They were sent for and came
from Lycia. Perhaps the caverns about Nauplia, and the
works there, have their name from these people. The citadel
Licymna has its name from Licymnius. It is distant from
Nauplia about 12 stadia. This place is deserted, as well as the
neighbouring Midéa, which is different from the Bœotian
Mídea, for that is accentuated Mídea, like πρόνοια, but this is
accentuated Midéa, like Tegéa.
Prosymna borders upon Midéa; it has also a temple of
Juno. The Argives have depopulated most of these for their
refusal to submit to their authority. Of the inhabitants some
went from Tiryns to Epidaurus; others from Hermione to the
Halieis (the Fishermen), as they are called; others were transferred
by the Lacedæmonians to Messenia from Asine, (which
is itself a village in the Argive territory near Nauplia,) and
they built a small city of the same name as the Argolic Asine.
For the Lacedæmonians, according to Theopompus, got possession
of a large tract of country belonging to other nations,
and settled there whatever fugitives they had received, who
had taken refuge among them; and it was to this country the
Nauplians had retreated.
12. Hermione is one of the cities, not undistinguished.
The coast is occupied by Halieis, as they are called, a tribe
who subsist by being employed on the sea in fishing. There
is a general opinion among the Hermionenses that there is a
short descent from their country to Hades, and hence they do
not place in the mouths of the dead the fare for crossing the
Styx.
13. It is said that Asine as well as Hermione was inhabited
by Dryopes; either Dryops the Arcadian having transferred
them thither from the places near the Spercheius, according
to Aristotle; or, Hercules expelled them from Doris near
Parnassus.
Scyllæum near Hermione has its name, it is said, from
Scylla, daughter of Nisus. According to report, she was
enamoured of Minos, and betrayed to him Nisæa. She was
drowned by order of her father, and her body was thrown
upon the shore, and buried here.
Eïones was a kind of village which the Mycenæi depopulated,
and converted into a station for vessels. It was afterwards
destroyed, and is no longer a naval station.
14. Trœzen is sacred to Neptune,200 from whom it was
formerly called Poseidonia. It is situated 15 stadia from the
sea. Nor is this an obscure city. In front of its harbour,
called Pogon,201 lies Calauria, a small island, of about 30 stadia
in compass. Here was a temple of Neptune, which served as
an asylum for fugitives. It is said that this god exchanged
Delos for Calauria with Latona, and Tænarum for Pytho with
Apollo. Ephorus mentions the oracle respecting it:
“It is the same thing to possess Delos, or Calauria,
The divine Pytho, or the windy Tænarum.”
There was a sort of Amphictyonic body to whom the concerns
of this temple belonged, consisting of seven cities, which
performed sacrifices in common. These were Hermon, Epidaurus,
Ægina, Athenæ, Prasiæ, Nauplia, and Orchomenus
Minyeius. The Argives contributed in behalf of Nauplia, and
the Lacedæmonians in behalf of Prasiæ. The veneration
for this god prevailed so strongly among the Greeks, that
the Macedonians, even when masters of the country, nevertheless
preserved even to the present time the privilege of
the asylum, and were restrained by shame from dragging
away the suppliants who took refuge at Calauria. Archias
even, with a body of soldiers, did not dare to use force to Demosthenes,
although he had received orders from Antipater
to bring him alive, and all other orators he could find, who
were accused of the same crimes. He attempted persuasion,
but in vain, for Demosthenes deprived himself of life by taking
poison in the temple.202
Trœzen and Pittheus, the sons of Pelops, having set out
from Pisatis to Argos, the former left behind him a city of his
own name; Pittheus succeeded him, and became king. Anthes,
who occupied the territory before, set sail, and founded
Halicarnassus. We shall speak of him in our account of
Caria and the Troad.
15. Epidaurus was called Epitaurus [Epicarus?]. Aristotle
says, that Carians occupied both this place and Hermione,
but upon the return of the Heracleidæ those Ionians, who had
accompanied them from the Athenian Tetrapolis to Argos,
settled there together with the Carians.
Epidaurus203 was a distinguished city, remarkable particularly
on account of the fame of Æsculapius, who was supposed
to cure every kind of disease, and whose temple is
crowded constantly with sick persons, and its walls covered
with votive tablets, which are hung upon the walls, and contain
accounts of the cures, in the same manner as is practised
at Cos, and at Tricca. The city lies in the recess of the
Saronic Gulf, with a coasting navigation of 15 stadia, and its
aspect is towards the point of summer sunrise. It is surrounded
with lofty mountains, which extend to the coast, so
that it is strongly fortified by nature on all sides.
Between Trœzen and Epidaurus, there was a fortress Methana,204
and a peninsula of the same name. In some copies of
Thucydides Methone is the common reading,205 a place of the
same name with the Macedonian city, at the siege of which
Philip lost an eye. Hence Demetrius of Scepsis is of opinion,
that some persons were led into error by the name, and supposed
that it was Methone near Trœzen. It was against this
town, it is said, that the persons sent by Agamemnon to levy
sailors, uttered the imprecation, that
“they might never cease to build walls,”
but it was not these people; but the Macedonians, according
to Theopompus, who refused the levy of men; besides it is
not probable that those, who were in the neighbourhood of
Agamemnon, would disobey his orders.
16. Ægina is a place in the territory of Epidaurus. There
is in front of this continent, an island, of which the poet means
to speak in the lines before cited. Wherefore some write,
instead of
“and they who occupied Ægina,”
making a distinction between the places of the same name.
It is unnecessary to remark, that this island is among the
most celebrated. It was the country of Æacus and his descendants.
It was this island which once possessed so much
power at sea, and formerly disputed the superiority with the
Athenians in the sea-fight at Salamis during the Persian war.206
The circuit of the island is said to be about 180 stadia. It
has a city of the same name on the south-west. Around it
are Attica, and Megara, and the parts of Peloponnesus as far
as Epidaurus. It is distant from each about 100 stadia. The
eastern and southern sides are washed by the Myrtoan and
Cretan seas. Many small islands surround it on the side
towards the continent, but Belbina is situated on the side
towards the open sea. The land has soil at a certain depth,
but it is stony at the surface, particularly the plain country,
whence the whole has a bare appearance, but yields large crops
of barley. It is said that the Æginetæ were called Myrmidones,
not as the fable accounts for the name, when the ants
were metamorphosed into men, at the time of a great famine,
by the prayer of Æacus; but because by digging, like ants,
they threw up the earth upon the rocks, and were thus made
able to cultivate the ground, and because they lived in excavations
under-ground, abstaining from the use of bricks
and sparing of the soil for this purpose.
Its ancient name was Œnone, which is the name of two of
the demi in Attica, one near Eleutheræ;
“to inhabit the plains close to Œnone, (Œnoe,) and Eleutheræ;”
and another, one of the cities of the Tetrapolis near Marathon,
to which the proverb is applied,
“Œnone (Œnoe?) and its torrent.”
Its inhabitants were in succession Argives, Cretans, Epidaurians,
and Dorians. At last the Athenians divided the island by
lot among settlers of their own. The Lacedæmonians, however,
deprived the Athenians of it, and restored it to the ancient inhabitants.
The Æginetæ sent out colonists to Cydonia207 in Crete, and
to the Ombrici. According to Ephorus, silver was first struck
as money by Pheidon. The island became a mart, the inhabitants,
on account of the fertility of its soil, employing themselves
at sea as traders; whence goods of a small kind had
the name of “Ægina wares.”
17. The poet frequently speaks of places in succession as
they are situated;
“they who inhabited Hyria, and Aulis;”
208
“and they who occupied Argos, and Tiryns,
At other times he does not observe any order;
He also mentions together places on the continent and islands
and inhabited Crocyleia,”
211
for Crocyleia is in Acarnania. Thus he here joins with Ægina
Mases, which belongs to the continent of Argolis.
Homer does not mention Thyreæ, but other writers speak
of it as well known. It was the occasion of a contest between
the three hundred Argives against the same number of Lacedæmonians;
the latter were conquerors by means of a stratagem
of Othryadas. Thucydides places Thyreæ in Cynuria,
on the confines of Argia and Laconia.212
Hysiæ also is a celebrated place in Argolica; and Cenchreæ,
which lies on the road from Tegea to Argos, over the mountain
Parthenius, and the Creopolus.213 But Homer was not
acquainted with either of these places, [nor with the Lyrceium,
nor Orneæ, and yet they are villages in the Argian
territory; the former of the same name as the mountain there;
the latter of the same name as the Orneæ, situated between
Corinth and Sicyon].214
18. Among the cities of the Peloponnesus, the most celebrated
were, and are at this time, Argos and Sparta, and as their renown
is spread everywhere, it is not necessary to describe
them at length, for if we did so, we should seem to repeat
what is said by all writers.
Anciently, Argos was the most celebrated, but afterwards
the Lacedæmonians obtained the superiority, and continued to
maintain their independence, except during some short interval,
when they experienced a reverse of fortune.
The Argives did not admit Pyrrhus within the city. He
fell before the walls, an old woman having let a tile drop from
a house upon his head.
They were, however, under the sway of other kings. When
they belonged to the Achæan league they were subjected, together
with the other members of that confederacy, to the
power of the Romans. The city subsists at present, and is
second in rank to Sparta.
19. We shall next speak of those places which are said, in
the Catalogue of the Ships, to be under the government of
Mycenæ and Agamemnon: the lines are these:
“Those who inhabited Mycenæ, a well-built city,
and the wealthy Corinth, and Cleonæ well built,
and Orneiæ, and the lovely Aræthyrea,
and Sicyon, where Adrastus first reigned,
and they who inhabited Hyperesia, and the lofty Gonoessa,
and Pellene, and Ægium,
and the whole range of the coast, and those who lived near the spacious Helice.”
215
Mycenæ exists no longer. It was founded by Perseus.
Sthenelus succeeded Perseus; and Eurystheus, Sthenelus.
These same persons were kings of Argos also. It is said that
Eurystheus, having engaged, with the assistance of the Athenians,
in an expedition to Marathon against the descendants
of Hercules and Iolaus, fell in battle, and that the remainder
of his body was buried at Gargettus, but his head apart from
it at Tricorythus216 (Corinth?), Iolaus having severed it from
the body near the fountain Macaria, close to the chariot-road.
The spot itself has the name of “Eurystheus’-head.”
Mycenæ then passed into the possession of the Pelopidæ,
who had left the Pisatis, then into that of the Heracleidæ,
who were also masters of Argos. But after the sea-fight at
Salamis, the Argives, together with the Cleonæi, and the Tegetæ,
invaded Mycenæ, and razed it, and divided the territory
among themselves. The tragic writers, on account of the
proximity of the two cities, speak of them as one, and use the
name of one for the other. Euripides in the same play calls
the same city in one place Mycenæ, and in another Argos, as
in the Iphigeneia,217 and in the Orestes.218
Cleonæ is a town situated upon the road leading from Argos
to Corinth, on an eminence, which is surrounded on all
sides by dwellings, and well fortified, whence, in my opinion,
Cleonæ was properly described as “well built.” There also,
between Cleonæ and Phlius, is Nemea, and the grove where
it was the custom of the Argives to celebrate the Nemean
games: here is the scene of the fable of the Nemean Lion,
and here also the village Bembina. Cleonæ is distant from
Argos 120 stadia, and 80 from Corinth. And we have ourselves
beheld the city from the Acrocorinthus.
20. Corinth is said to be opulent from its mart. It is
situated upon the isthmus. It commands two harbours, one
near Asia, the other near Italy, and facilitates, by reason of so
short a distance between them, an exchange of commodities
on each side.
As the Sicilian strait, so formerly these seas were of difficult
navigation, and particularly the sea above Maleæ, on account
of the prevalence of contrary winds; whence the common
proverb,
“When you double Maleæ forget your home.”
It was a desirable thing for the merchants coming from Asia,
and from Italy, to discharge their lading at Corinth without
being obliged to double Cape Maleæ. For goods exported
from Peloponnesus, or imported by land, a toll was paid to
those who had the keys of the country. This continued afterwards
for ever. In after-times they enjoyed even additional
advantages, for the Isthmian games, which were celebrated
there, brought thither great multitudes of people. The Bacchiadæ,
a rich and numerous family, and of illustrious descent,
were their rulers, governed the state for nearly two hundred
years, and peaceably enjoyed the profits of the mart. Their
power was destroyed by Cypselus, who became king himself,
and his descendants continued to exist for three generations.
A proof of the wealth of this family is the offering which
Cypselus dedicated at Olympia, a statue of Jupiter of beaten
gold.
Demaratus, one of those who had been tyrant at Corinth,
flying from the seditions which prevailed there, carried with
him from his home to Tyrrhenia so much wealth, that he became
sovereign of the city which had received him, and his
son became even king of the Romans.
The temple of Venus at Corinth was so rich, that it had
more than a thousand women consecrated to the service of the
goddess, courtesans, whom both men and women had dedicated
as offerings to the goddess. The city was frequented
and enriched by the multitudes who resorted thither on account
of these women. Masters of ships freely squandered
all their money, and hence the proverb,
“It is not in every man’s power to go to Corinth.”
219
The answer is related of a courtesan to a woman who was
reproaching her with disliking work, and not employing herself
in spinning;
“Although I am what you see, yet, in this short time, I have already
finished three distaffs.”220
21. The position of the city as it is described by Hieronymus,
and Eudoxus, and others, and from our own observation,
since its restoration by the Romans, is as follows.
That which is called the Acrocorinthus is a lofty mountain,
perpendicular, and about three stadia and a half in height.
There is an ascent of 30 stadia, and it terminates in a sharp
point. The steepest part is towards the north. Below it lies
the city in a plain of the form of a trapezium, at the very foot
of the Acrocorinthus. The compass of the city itself was 40
stadia, and all that part which was not protected by the
mountain was fortified by a wall. Even the mountain itself,
the Acrocorinthus, was comprehended within this wall,
wherever it would admit of fortification. As I ascended it,
the ruins of the circuit of the foundation were apparent, which
gave a circumference of about 85 stadia. The other sides of
the mountain are less steep; hence, however, it stretches onwards,
and is visible everywhere. The summit has upon it a
small temple of Venus, and below it is the fountain Peirene,
which has no efflux, but is continually full of water, which is
transparent, and fit for drinking. They say, that from the
compression of this, and of some other small under-ground
veins, originates that spring at the foot of the mountain, which
runs into the city, and furnishes the inhabitants with a sufficient
supply of water. There is a large number of wells in
the city, and it is said in the Acrocorinthus also, but this I
did not see. When Euripides says,
“I come from the Acrocorinthus, well-watered on all sides, the sacred
hill and habitation of Venus,”
the epithet “well-watered on all sides,” must be understood to
refer to depth; pure springs and under-ground rills are dispersed
through the mountain; or we must suppose, that, anciently,
the Peirene overflowed, and irrigated the mountain.
There, it is said, Pegasus was taken by Bellerophon, while
drinking; this was a winged horse, which sprung from the
neck of Medusa when the head of the Gorgon was severed
from the body. This was the horse, it is said, which caused
the Hippocrene, or Horse’s Fountain, to spring up in Helicon
by striking the rock with its hoof.
Below Peirene is the Sisypheium, which preserves a large
portion of the ruins of a temple, or palace, built of white marble.
From the summit towards the north are seen Parnassus
and Helicon, lofty mountains covered with snow; then the
Crissæan Gulf,221 lying below both, and surrounded by Phocis,
Bœotia, Megaris, by the Corinthian district opposite to Phocis,
and by Sicyonia on the west. * * * *
Above all these are situated the Oneia222 mountains, as they
are called, extending as far as Bœotia and Cithæron, from
the Sceironides rocks, where the road leads along them to
Attica.
22. Lechæum is the commencement of the coast on one
side; and on the other, Cenchreæ, a village with a harbour,
distant from the city about 70 stadia. The latter serves for
the trade with Asia, and Lechæum for that with Italy.
Lechæum is situated below the city, and is not well inhabited.
There are long walls of about 12 stadia in length,
stretching on each side of the road towards Lechæum. The
sea-shore, extending hence to Pagæ in Megaris, is washed by
the Corinthian Gulf. It is curved, and forms the Diolcus, or
the passage along which vessels are drawn over the Isthmus
to the opposite coast at Schœnus near Cenchreæ.
Between Lechæum and Pagæ, anciently, there was the
oracle of the Acræan Juno, and Olmiæ, the promontory that
forms the gulf, on which are situated Œnoe, and Pagæ; the
former is a fortress of the Megarians; and Œnoe is a fortress
of the Corinthians.
Next to Cenchreæ223 is Schœnus, where is the narrow part
of the Diolcus, then Crommyonia. In front of this coast lies
the Saronic Gulf, and the Eleusiniac, which is almost the same,
and continuous with the Hermionic. Upon the Isthmus is the
temple of the Isthmian Neptune, shaded above with a grove of
pine trees, where the Corinthians celebrated the Isthmian games.
Crommyon224 is a village of the Corinthian district, and formerly
belonging to that of Megaris, where is laid the scene of
the fable of the Crommyonian sow, which, it is said, was the
dam of the Calydonian boar, and, according to tradition, the
destruction of this sow was one of the labours of Theseus.
Tenea is a village of the Corinthian territory, where there
was a temple of Apollo Teneates. It is said that Archias,
who equipped a colony for Syracuse, was accompanied by a
great number of settlers from this place; and that this settlement
afterwards flourished more than any others, and at length
had an independent form of government of its own. When
they revolted from the Corinthians, they attached themselves
to the Romans, and continued to subsist when Corinth was
destroyed.
An answer of an oracle is circulated, which was returned
to an Asiatic, who inquired whether it was better to migrate
to Corinth;
“Corinth is prosperous, but I would belong to Tenea;”
which last word was perverted by some through ignorance,
and altered to Tegea. Here, it is said, Polybus brought up
Œdipus.
There seems to be some affinity between the Tenedii and
these people, through Tennus, the son of Cycnus, according
to Aristotle; the similarity, too, of the divine honours paid
by both to Apollo affords no slight proof of this relationship.225
23. The Corinthians, when subject to Philip, espoused his
party very zealously, and individually conducted themselves
so contemptuously towards the Romans, that persons ventured
to throw down filth upon their ambassadors, when passing by
their houses. They were immediately punished for these and
other offences and insults. A large army was sent out under
the command of Lucius Mummius, who razed the city.226 The
rest of the country, as far as Macedonia, was subjected to the
Romans under different generals. The Sicyonii, however,
had the largest part of the Corinthian territory.
Polybius relates with regret what occurred at the capture
of the city, and speaks of the indifference the soldiers showed
for works of art, and the sacred offerings of the temples. He
says, that he was present, and saw pictures thrown upon the
ground, and soldiers playing at dice upon them. Among
others, he specifies by name the picture of Bacchus227 by Aristeides,
(to which it is said the proverb was applied, “Nothing
to the Bacchus,”) and Hercules tortured in the robe, the gift
of Deïaneira.228 This I have not myself seen, but I have seen the
picture of the Bacchus suspended in the Demetreium at Rome,
a very beautiful piece of art, which, together with the temple,
was lately consumed by fire. The greatest number and the
finest of the other offerings in Rome were brought from Corinth.
Some of them were in the possession of the cities in
the neighbourhood of Rome. For Mummius being more
brave and generous than an admirer of the arts, presented
them without hesitation to those who asked for them.229 Lucullus,
having built the temple of Good Fortune, and a portico,
requested of Mummius the use of some statues, under the
pretext of ornamenting the temple with them at the time of
its dedication, and promised to restore them. He did not,
however, restore, but presented them as sacred offerings, and
told Mummius to take them away if he pleased. Mummius
did not resent this conduct, not caring about the statues, but
obtained more honour than Lucullus, who presented them as
sacred offerings.
Corinth remained a long time deserted, till at length it was
restored on account of its natural advantages by divus Cæsar,
who sent colonists thither, who consisted, for the most part, of
the descendants of free-men.
On moving the ruins, and digging open the sepulchres,
an abundance of works in pottery with figures on them, and
many in brass, were found. The workmanship was admired,
and all the sepulchres were examined with the greatest care.
Thus was obtained a large quantity of things, which were
disposed of at a great price, and Rome filled with Necro-Corinthia,
by which name were distinguished the articles taken
out of the sepulchres, and particularly the pottery. At first
these latter were held in as much esteem as the works of the
Corinthian artists in brass, but this desire to have them did
not continue, not only because the supply failed, but because
the greatest part of them were not well executed.230
The city of Corinth was large and opulent at all periods,
and produced a great number of statesmen and artists. For
here in particular, and at Sicyon, flourished painting, and
modelling, and every art of this kind.
The soil was not very fertile; its surface was uneven and
rugged, whence all writers describe Corinth as full of brows
of hills, and apply the proverb,
“Corinth rises with brows of hills, and sinks into hollows.”
24. Orneæ has the same name as the river which flows beside
it. At present it is deserted; formerly, it was well inhabited,
and contained a temple of Priapus, held in veneration.
It is from this place that Euphronius, (Euphorius?) the author
of a poem, the Priapeia, applies the epithet Orneates to the
god.
It was situated above the plain of the Sicyonians, but the
Argives were masters of the country.
Aræthyrea231 is now called Phliasia. It had a city of the
same name as the country near the mountain Celossa. They
afterwards removed thence and built a city at the distance of
30 stadia, which they called Phlius.232 Part of the mountain
Celossa is the Carneates, whence the Asopus takes its rise,
which flows by Sicyon,233 and forms the Asopian district,
which is a part of Sicyonia. There is also an Asopus, which
flows by Thebes, and Platæa, and Tanagra. There is another
also in Heracleia Trachinia, which flows beside a village,
called Parasopii, and a fourth at Paros.
Phlius is situated in the middle of a circle formed by Sicyonia,
Argeia, Cleonæ, and Stymphalus. At Phlius and at
Sicyon the temple of Dia, a name given to Hebe, is held in
veneration.
25. Sicyon was formerly called Mecone, and at a still earlier
period, Ægiali. It was rebuilt high up in the country about
20, others say, about 12, stadia from the sea, upon an eminence
naturally strong, which is sacred to Ceres. The buildings
anciently consisted of a naval arsenal and a harbour.
Sicyonia is separated by the river Nemea from the Corinthian
territory. It was formerly governed for a very long period
by tyrants, but they were always persons of mild and
moderate disposition. Of these, the most illustrious was
Aratus, who made the city free, and was the chief of the
Achæans, who voluntarily conferred upon him that power;
he extended the confederacy by annexing to it his own country,
and the other neighbouring cities.
Hyperesia, and the cities next in order in the Catalogue of
the poet, and Ægialus,234 [or the sea-coast,] as far as Dyme, and
the borders of the Eleian territory, belong to the Achæans.
1. The Ionians, who were descendants of the Athenians,
were, anciently, masters of this country. It was formerly
called Ægialeia, and the inhabitants Ægialeans, but in later
times, Ionia, from the former people, as Attica had the name
of Ionia, from Ion the son of Xuthus.
It is said, that Hellen was the son of Deucalion, and that
he governed the country about Phthia between the Peneius
and Asopus, and transmitted to his eldest son these dominions,
sending the others out of their native country to seek a settlement
each of them for himself. Dorus, one of them, settled
the Dorians about Parnassus, and when he left them, they bore
his name. Xuthus, another, married the daughter of Erechtheus,
and was the founder of the Tetrapolis of Attica, which
consisted of Œnoe, Marathon, Probalinthus, and Tricorythus.
Achæus, one of the sons of Xuthus, having committed an
accidental murder, fled to Lacedæmon, and occasioned the inhabitants
to take the name of Achæans.235
Ion, the other son, having vanquished the Thracian army
with their leader Eumolpus, obtained so much renown, that
the Athenians intrusted him with the government of their
state. It was he who first distributed the mass of the people
into four tribes, and these again into four classes according to
their occupations, husbandmen, artificers, priests, and the
fourth, military guards; after having made many more regulations
of this kind, he left to the country his own name.
It happened at that time that the country had such an
abundance of inhabitants, that the Athenians sent out a colony
of Ionians to Peloponnesus, and the tract of country
which they occupied was called Ionia after their own name,
instead of Ægialeia, and the inhabitants Ionians instead of
Ægialeans, who were distributed among twelve cities.
After the return of the Heracleidæ, these Ionians, being
expelled by the Achæans, returned to Athens, whence, in conjunction
with the Codridæ, (descendants of Codrus,) they sent
out the Ionian colonists to Asia.236 They founded twelve cities
on the sea-coast of Caria and Lydia, having distributed themselves
over the country into as many parts as they occupied in
Peloponnesus.237
The Achæans were Phthiotæ by descent, and were settled at
Lacedæmon, but when the Heracleidæ became masters of the
country, having recovered their power under Tisamenus, the
son of Orestes, they attacked the Ionians, as I said before,
and defeated them. They drove the Ionians out of the country,
and took possession of the territory, but retained the
same partition of it which they found existing there. They
became so powerful, that, although the Heracleidæ, from whom
they had revolted, occupied the rest of Peloponnesus, yet they
defended themselves against them all, and called their own
country Achæa.
From Tisamenus to Ogyges they continued to be governed
by kings. Afterwards they established a democracy, and acquired
so great renown for their political wisdom, that the
Italian Greeks, after their dissensions with the Pythagoreans,
adopted most of the laws and institutions of the Achæans. After
the battle of Leuctra the Thebans238 committed the disputes of
the cities among each other to the arbitration of the Achæans.
At a later period their community was dissolved by the Macedonians,
but they recovered by degrees their former power.
At the time of the expedition of Pyrrhus into Italy they began
with the union of four cities, among which were Patræ
and Dyme.239 They then had an accession of the twelve cities,
with the exception of Olenus and Helice; the former refused
to join the league; the other was swallowed up by the waves.
2. For the sea was raised to a great height by an earthquake,
and overwhelmed both Helice and the temple of the
Heliconian Neptune, whom the Ionians still hold in great
veneration, and offer sacrifices to his honour. They celebrate
at that spot the Panionian festival.240 According to the conjecture
of some persons, Homer refers to these sacrifices in
these lines,
“But he breathed out his soul, and bellowed, as a bull
Bellows when he is dragged round the altar of the Heliconian king.”
241
It is conjectured that the age242 of the poet is later than the
migration of the Ionian colony, because he mentions the Panionian
sacrifices, which the Ionians perform in honour of the
Heliconian Neptune in the territory of Priene; for the Prienians
themselves are said to have come from Helice; a young
man also of Priene is appointed to preside as king at these
sacrifices, and to superintend the celebration of the sacred
rites. A still stronger proof is adduced from what is said by
the poet respecting the bull, for the Ionians suppose, that sacrifice
is performed with favourable omens, when the bull bellows
at the instant that he is wounded at the altar.
Others deny this, and transfer to Helice the proofs alleged
of the bull and the sacrifice, asserting that these things were
done there by established custom, and that the poet drew his
comparison from the festival celebrated there. Helice243 was
overwhelmed by the waves two years before the battle of
Leuctra. Eratosthenes says, that he himself saw the place,
and the ferrymen told him that there formerly stood in the
strait a brazen statue of Neptune, holding in his hand a hippocampus,244
an animal which is dangerous to fishermen.
According to Heracleides, the inundation took place in his
time, and during the night. The city was at the distance
of 12 stadia from the sea, which overwhelmed the whole intermediate
country as well as the city. Two thousand men were
sent by the Achæans to collect the dead bodies, but in vain.
The territory was divided among the bordering people. This
calamity happened in consequence of the anger of Neptune,
for the Ionians, who were driven from Helice, sent particularly
to request the people of Helice to give them the image of
Neptune, or if they were unwilling to give that, to furnish
them with the model of the temple. On their refusal, the
Ionians sent to the Achæan body, who decreed, that they should
comply with the request, but they would not obey even this
injunction. The disaster occurred in the following winter,
and after this the Achæans gave the Ionians the model of the
temple.
Hesiod mentions another Helice in Thessaly.
3. The Achæans, during a period of five and twenty years,
elected, annually, a common secretary, and two military chiefs.
Their common assembly of the council met at one place, called
Arnarium, (Homarium, or Amarium,) where these persons,
and, before their time, the Ionians, consulted on public affairs.
They afterwards resolved to elect one military chief. When
Aratus held this post, he took the Acrocorinthus from Antigonus,
and annexed the city as well as his own country to
the Achæan league.245 He admitted the Megareans also into
the body, and, having destroyed the tyrannical governments in
each state, he made them members, after they were restored
to liberty, of the Achæan league. * * * * * He freed, in a
short time, Peloponnesus from the existing tyrannies; thus
Argos, Hermion, Phlius, and Megalopolis, the largest of the
Arcadian cities, were added to the Achæan body, when they
attained their greatest increase of numbers. It was at this
time that the Romans, having expelled the Carthaginians
from Sicily, undertook an expedition against the Galatæ,
who were settled about the Po.246 The Achæans remained
firmly united until Philopœmen had the military command,
but their union was gradually dissolved, after the Romans
had obtained possession of the whole of Greece. The Romans
did not treat each state in the same manner, but permitted
some to retain their own form of government, and dissolved that of others.
******
[He then assigns reasons for expatiating on the subject of the
Achæans, namely, their attainment of such a degree of power
as to be superior to the Lacedæmonians, and because they
were not as well known as they deserved to be from their importance.]247
4. The order of the places which the Achæans inhabited, according
to the distribution into twelve parts, is as follows.
Next to Sicyon is Pellene; Ægeira, the second; the third,
Ægæ, with a temple of Neptune; Bura, the fourth; then
Helice, where the Ionians took refuge after their defeat by the
Achæans, and from which place they were at last banished;
after Helice are Ægium, Rhypes, Patræ, and Phara; then Olenus,
beside which runs the large river [Peirus?]; then Dyme,
and Tritæeis. The Ionians dwelt in villages, but the Achæans
founded cities, to some of which they afterwards united others
transferred from other quarters, as Ægæ to Ægeira, (the inhabitants,
however, were called Ægæi,) and Olenus to Dyme.
Traces of the ancient settlement of the Olenii are to be
seen between Patræ and Dyme: there also is the famous temple
of Æsculapius, distant from Dyme 40, and from Patræ 80
stadia.
In Eubœa there is a place of the same name with the
Ægæ here, and there is a town of the name of Olenus in
Ætolia, of which there remain only vestiges.
The poet does not mention the Olenus in Achaia, nor many
other people living near Ægialus, but speaks in general terms;
“along the whole of Ægialus, and about the spacious Helice.”
248
But he mentions the Ætolian Olenus in these words;
“those who occupied Pleuron and Olenus.”
249
He mentions both the places of the name of Ægæ; the
Achæan Ægæ in these terms,
“who bring presents to Helice, and to Ægæ.”
250
But when he says,
“Ægæ, where his palace is in the depths of the sea,
There Neptune stopped his coursers,”
251
it is better to understand Ægæ in Eubœa; whence it is
probable the Ægæan Sea had its name. On this sea, according
to story, Neptune made his preparations for the Trojan
war.
Close to the Achæan Ægæ flows the river Crathis,252 augmented
by the waters of two rivers, and deriving its name
from the mixture of their streams. To this circumstance the
river Crathis in Italy owes its name.
5. Each of these twelve portions contained seven or eight
demi, so great was the population of the country.
Pellene,253 situated at the distance of 60 stadia from the sea,
is a strong fortress. There is also a village of the name of
Pellene, whence they bring the Pellenian mantles, which are
offered as prizes at the public games. It lies between Ægium254
and Pellene. But Pellana, a different place from these, belongs
to the Lacedæmonians, and is situated towards the territory
of Megalopolitis.
Ægeira255 is situated upon a hill. Bura is at the distance
from the sea-coast of about 40 stadia. It was swallowed up
by an earthquake. It is said, that from the fountain Sybaris
which is there, the river Sybaris in Italy had its name.
Æga (for this is the name by which Ægæ is called) is not
now inhabited, but the Ægienses occupy the territory. Ægium,
however, is well inhabited. It was here, it is said, that Jupiter
was suckled by a goat, as Aratus also says,
“the sacred goat, which is said to have applied its teats to the lips of
Jupiter.”256
He adds, that,
“the priests call it the Olenian goat of Jupiter,”
and indicates the place because it was near Olenus. There
also is Ceryneia, situated upon a lofty rock. This place, and
Helice, belong to the Ægienses,257 and the Ænarium, [Homarium,]
the grove of Jupiter, where the Achæans held their convention,
when they were to deliberate upon their common affairs.
The river Selinus flows through the city of the Ægienses.
It has the same name as that which was beside Artemisium
at Ephesus, and that in Elis, which has its course along the
spot, that Xenophon258 says he purchased in compliance with
the injunction of an oracle, in honour of Artemis. There is
also another Selinus in the country of the Hyblæi Megarenses,
whom the Carthaginians expelled.
Of the remaining Achæan cities, or portions, Rhypes is not
inhabited, but the territory called Rhypis was occupied by
Ægienses and Pharians. Æschylus also says somewhere,
“the sacred Bura, and Rhypes struck with lightning.”
Myscellus, the founder of Croton, was a native of Rhypes.
Leuctrum, belonging to the district Rhypis, was a demus
of Rhypes. Between these was Patræ, a considerable city,
and in the intervening country, at the distance of 40 stadia
from Patræ, are Rhium,259 and opposite to it, Antirrhium.260
Not long since the Romans, after the victory at Actium,
stationed there a large portion of their army, and at
present it is very well peopled, since it is a colony of the
Romans. It has also a tolerably good shelter for vessels.
Next is Dyme,261 a city without a harbour, the most westerly of
all the cities, whence also it has its name. It was formerly called
Stratos.262 It is separated from Eleia at Buprasium by the
river Larisus,263 which rises in a mountain, called by some persons
Scollis, but by Homer, the Olenian rock.
Antimachus having called Dyme Cauconis, some writers
suppose that the latter word is used as an epithet derived
from the Caucones, who extended as far as this quarter, as I
have said before. Others think that it is derived from a river
Caucon, in the same way as Thebes has the appellation of
Dircæan, and Asopian; and as Argos is called Inachian, and
Troy, Simuntis.264
A little before our time, Dyme had received a colony consisting
of a mixed body of people, a remnant of the piratical
bands, whose haunts Pompey had destroyed. Some he settled
at Soli in Cilicia, and others in other places, and some in this
spot.
Phara borders upon the Dymæan territory. The inhabitants
of this Phara are called Pharenses; those of the Messenian
Phara, Pharatæ. In the territory of Phara there is a
fountain Dirce, of the same name as that at Thebes.
Olenus is deserted. It lies between Patræ and Dyme.
The territory is occupied by the Dymæi. Next is Araxus,265
the promontory of the Eleian district, distant from the isthmus
1000 stadia.
1. Arcadia is situated in the middle of Peloponnesus, and
contains the greatest portion of the mountainous tract in that
country. Its largest mountain is Cyllene.266 Its perpendicular
height, according to some writers, is 20, according to others,
about 15 stadia.
The Arcadian nations, as the Azanes, and Parrhasii, and
other similar tribes, seem to be the most ancient people of
Greece.267
In consequence of the complete devastation of this country,
it is unnecessary to give a long description of it. The cities,
although formerly celebrated, have been destroyed by continual
wars; and the husbandmen abandoned the country at
the time that most of the cities were united in that called
Megalopolis (the Great City). At present Megalopolis itself
has undergone the fate expressed by the comic poet;
“the great city is a great desert.”
There are rich pastures for cattle, and particularly for horses
and asses, which are used as stallions. The race of Arcadian
horses, as well as the Argolic and Epidaurian, is preferred
before all others. The uninhabited tracts of country in Ætolia
and Acarnania are not less adapted to the breeding of horses
than Thessaly.
2. Mantinea owes its fame to Epaminondas, who conquered
the Lacedæmonians there in a second battle, in which he lost
his life.268
This city, together with Orchomenus, Heræa, Cleitor, Pheneus,
Stymphalus, Mænalus, Methydrium, Caphyeis, and Cynætha,
either exist no longer, or traces and signs only of their
existence are visible. There are still some remains of Tegea,
and the temple of the Alæan Minerva remains. The latter
is yet held in some little veneration, as well as the temple of
the Lycæan Jupiter on the Lycæan mountain. But the places
mentioned by the poet, as
“Rhipe, and Stratia, and the windy Enispe,”
are difficult to discover, and if discovered, would be of no use
from the deserted condition of the country.
3. The mountains of note, besides Cyllene, are Pholoë,269 Lycæum,270
Mænalus, and the Parthenium,271 as it is called, which
extends from the territory of Tegea to that of Argos.
4. We have spoken of the extraordinary circumstances relative
to the Alpheius, Eurotas, and the Erasinus, which
issues out of the lake Stymphalis, and now flows into the
Argive country.
Formerly, the Erasinus had no efflux, for the Berethra,
which the Arcadians call Zerethra,272 had no outlet, so that the
city of the Stymphalii, which at that time was situated upon
the lake, is now at the distance of 50 stadia.
The contrary was the case with the Ladon, which was at
one time prevented running in a continuous stream by the
obstruction of its sources. For the Berethra near Pheneum,
through which it now passes, fell in in consequence of an
earthquake, which stopped the waters of the river, and affected
far down the veins which supplied its source. This
is the account of some writers.
Eratosthenes says, that about the Pheneus, the river called
Anias forms a lake, and then sinks under-ground into certain
openings, which they call Zerethra. When these are obstructed,
the water sometimes overflows into the plains, and
when they are again open the water escapes in a body
from the plains, and is discharged into the Ladon273 and the Alpheius,274
so that it happened once at Olympia, that the land
about the temple was inundated, but the lake was partly emptied.
The Erasinus275 also, he says, which flows by Stymphalus,
sinks into the ground under the mountain (Chaon?), and reappears
in the Argive territory. It was this that induced
Iphicrates, when besieging Stymphalus, and making no progress,
to attempt to obstruct the descent of the river into the
ground by means of a large quantity of sponges, but desisted
in consequence of some portentous signs in the heavens.
Near the Pheneus there is also the water of the Styx, as it
is called, a dripping spring of poisonous water, which was
esteemed to be sacred.
So much then respecting Arcadia.
5.276 Polybius having said, that from Maleæ towards the north
as far as the Danube the distance is about 10,000 stadia, is corrected
by Artemidorus, and not without reason; for, according
to the latter, from Maleæ to Ægium the distance is 1400
stadia, from hence to Cirrha is a distance by sea of 200 stadia;
hence by Heraclea to Thaumaci a journey of 500 stadia;
thence to Larisa and the river Peneus, 340 stadia; then
through Tempe to the mouth of the Peneus, 240 stadia; then
to Thessalonica, 660 stadia; then to the Danube, through
Idomene, and Stobi, and Dardanii, it is 3200 stadia. According
to Artemidorus, therefore, the distance from the
Danube to Maleæ would be 6500. The cause of this difference
is that he does not give the measurement by the shortest
road, but by some accidental route pursued by a general of an
army.
It is not, perhaps, out of place to add the founders mentioned
by Ephorus, who settled colonies in Peloponnesus after
the return of the Heracleidæ; as Aletes, the founder of Corinth;
Phalces, of Sicyon; Tisamenus, of cities in Achæa; Oxylus,
of Elis, Cresphontes, of Messene; Eurysthenes and Procles,
of Lacedæmon; Temenus and Cissus, of Argos; and
Agræus and Deïphontes, of the towns about Acte.