"Spain, knowing she cannot hold Louisiana, has
ceded it to France!" The winds of ocean bore
the message to America.
"Napoleon? Is he to control us also?"
Never so vast a shadow overawed the world. Afar
they had read of his battles, had dreaded his name. Instantly
colossal Napoleon loomed across the prairies of
the West.
Napoleon had fifty-four ships and fifty thousand
troops, the flower of his army, sailing to re-establish
slavery in Hayti. But a step and he would be at the
Mississippi. He was sending Laussat, a French prefect,
to take over New Orleans and wait for the army.
"Shall we submit? And is this to be the end of all our
fought-for liberty, that Napoleon should rule America?"
The fear of France was now as great as had been the
admiration.
Gaily the flatboats were floating down, laden with flour
and bacon, hams and tobacco, seeking egress to Cuba and
Atlantic seaports, when suddenly, in October, 1802, the
Spanish Intendant at New Orleans closed the Mississippi.
Crowding back, for twenty thousand miles inland, were
the products of the Autumn.
The western country blazed; only by strenuous effort
could Congress keep a backwoods army from marching
on New Orleans. A powerful minority at Washington
contended for instant seizure.
Pittsburg, with shore lined with shipping, roared all
the way to the gulf, "No grain can be sold down the
river on account of those piratical Spaniards!"
Appeal after appeal went up to Jefferson, "Let us
sweep them into the sea!"
What hope with a foreign nation at our gates? Spain
might be got rid of, but France—Monroe was dispatched
to France to interview Napoleon.
"The French must not have New Orleans," was the
lightning thought of Jefferson. "No one but ourselves
must own our own front door."
And Jefferson penned a letter to Livingstone, the
American minister at Paris:
"There is on the globe but one single spot, the possessor
of which is our natural and habitual enemy. It is New
Orleans, through which the produce of three-eighths of our
territory must pass to market. France placing herself in
that door assumes to us the attitude of defiance. Spain
might have retained it quietly for years. Not so France.
The impetuosity of her temper, the energy and restlessness
of her character, render it impossible that France and the
United States can continue friends when they meet in so
irritating a position. The day that France takes possession
of New Orleans—from that moment we must marry ourselves
to the British fleet and nation."
As Jefferson placed that letter in the hands of Monroe
he added:
"In Europe nothing but Europe is seen. But this
little event, of France's possessing herself of Louisiana,—this
speck which now appears an invisible point on
the horizon,—is the embryo of a tornado.
"I must secure the port of New Orleans and the mastery
of the navigation of the Mississippi.
"We must have peace. The use of the Mississippi is
indispensable. We must purchase New Orleans."
"You are aware of the sensibility of our Western citizens,"
Madison was writing to Madrid. "To them the
Mississippi is everything. It is the Hudson, the Delaware,
the Potomac, and all the navigable rivers of the
Atlantic States, formed into one."
But Napoleon's soldiers were dying at San Domingo,
the men with whom he would have colonised Louisiana.
At that moment the flint and steel of France and England
struck, and the spark meant—war. England stood
ready to seize the mouth of the Mississippi.
After the solemnities of Easter Sunday at St. Cloud,
April 10, 1803, Napoleon summoned two of his
ministers.
"I know the full value of Louisiana!" he began with
vehement passion, walking up and down the marble parlour.
"A few lines of treaty have restored it to me, and
I have scarcely recovered it when I must expect to lose
it. But if it escapes from me," the First Consul shook
his finger menacingly, "it shall one day cost dearer to
those who oblige me to strip myself of it, than to those
to whom I wish to deliver it. The English have successively
taken from France, Canada, Cape Breton, Newfoundland,
Nova Scotia, and the richest portions of
Asia. They shall not have the Mississippi which they
covet. They have twenty ships of war in the Gulf of
Mexico, they sail over those seas as sovereigns. The
conquest of Louisiana would be easy. I have not a moment
to lose in putting it out of their reach. I know
not whether they are not already there. I think of ceding
it to the United States. They only ask one town
of me in Louisiana but I already consider the colony as
entirely lost, and it appears to me that in the hands of
this growing power it will be more useful to the policy
and even to the commerce of France, than if I should
attempt to keep it."
He turned to Barbé-Marbois, who had served as Secretary
of the French Legation at Philadelphia during the
whole war of the American Revolution.
"We should not hesitate to make a sacrifice of that
which is about slipping from us," said Barbé-Marbois.
"War with England is inevitable; shall we be able to
defend Louisiana? Can we restore fortifications that
are in ruins? If, Citizen Consul, you, who have by one
of the first acts of your government made sufficiently
apparent your intention of giving this country to France,
now abandon the idea of keeping it, there is no person
that will not admit that you yield to necessity."
Far into the night they talked, so late that the ministers
slept at St. Cloud.
At daybreak Napoleon summoned Barbé-Marbois.
"Read me the dispatches from London."
"Sire," returned the Secretary, looking over the
papers, "naval and military preparations of every kind
are making with extraordinary rapidity."
Napoleon leaped to his feet and strode again the marble
floor.
"Irresolution and deliberation are no longer in season.
I renounce Louisiana. It is not only New Orleans that I
will cede, but the whole colony without reservation. I
know the price of what I abandon. I renounce it with
regret. To attempt to retain it would be folly. I direct
you to negotiate this affair with the United States. Do
not even await the arrival of Mr. Monroe; have an interview
this very day with Mr. Livingstone; but I require
a great deal of money for this war, and I would
not like to commence it with new contributions. I want
fifty millions, and for less than that sum I will not treat.
To-morrow you shall have your full powers."
The minister waited.
"Mr. Monroe is on the point of arriving," continued
Napoleon. "Neither this minister, nor his colleague, is
prepared for a decision which goes infinitely beyond anything
they are about to ask of us. Begin by making
them overtures, without any subterfuge. Acquaint me,
hour by hour, of your progress."
"What will you pay for all Louisiana?" bluntly
asked Barbé-Marbois that day of the astonished Livingstone.
"All Louisiana! New Orleans is all I ask for," answered
Livingstone. So long had Talleyrand trifled and
deceived, the American found himself distrustful of these
French diplomatists.
"But I offer the province," said Barbé-Marbois.
Surprised, doubtful, Livingstone listened. "I have
not the necessary powers."
The next day Monroe arrived.
"There must be haste or the English will be at New
Orleans," said Barbé-Marbois. "How much will you
pay for the whole province?"
"The English? Fifteen millions," answered the
Americans.
"Incorporate Louisiana as soon as possible into your
Union," said Napoleon, "give to its inhabitants the same
rights, privileges, and immunities as to other citizens of
the United States.
"And let them know that we separate ourselves from
them with regret; let them retain for us sentiments of
affection; and may their common origin, descent, language,
and customs perpetuate the friendship."
The papers were drawn up and signed in French and
in English.
"We have lived long, but this is the noblest work of
our lives!" exclaimed Livingstone, as he and Barbé-Marbois
and Monroe arose and shook hands across the
document.
"This accession of territory strengthens for ever the
power of the United States," said Napoleon, coming in
to look at the treaty. And as he affixed that signature,
"Napoleon," he smiled,—"I have just given to England
a maritime rival, that sooner or later will humble
her pride."
And on that day the Mississippi was opened, to be
closed by a foreign power no more for ever.
But no sooner had Napoleon parted with Louisiana
than he began to repent. "Hasten," the ministers warned
Jefferson, "the slightest delay may lose us the country."
The word reached America.
"Jefferson—bought New Orleans? bought the Mississippi?
bought the entire boundless West?"
Men gasped, then cheered. Tumultuous excitement
swept the land. On July 3, 1803, an infant Republic
hugging the Atlantic, on July 4, a world power grasping
the Pacific!
"A bargain!" cried the Republicans.
"Unconstitutional!" answered the Federalists.
"The East will become depopulated."
"Fifteen millions! Fifteen millions for that wilderness!
Why, that would be tons of money! Waggon
loads of silver five miles long. We have not so much
coin in the whole country!"
And Meriwether Lewis was ready to start.
The night before the Fourth of July he wrote
his mother:
"The day after to-morrow I shall set out for the western
country. I had calculated on the pleasure of visiting you,
but circumstances have rendered it impossible. My absence
will probably be equal to fifteen or eighteen months. The
nature of this expedition is by no means dangerous. My
route will be altogether through tribes of Indians friendly
to the United States, therefore I consider the chances of life
just as much in my favour as I should conceive them were
I to remain at home. The charge of this expedition is honourable
to myself, as it is important to my country. For
its fatigues I feel myself perfectly prepared, nor do I doubt
my health and strength of constitution to bear me through
it. I go with the most perfect pre-conviction in my own
mind of returning safe, and hope therefore that you will
not suffer yourself to indulge any anxiety for my safety,—I
will write again on my arrival at Pittsburg. Adieu, and
believe me your affectionate son,
Meriwether Lewis."
The Jefferson girls had returned to their homes. Dolly
Madison and Mrs. Gallatin supervised the needle department,
having made "housewives" enough to fit out a
regiment. Joseph Rapin, the steward, helped Lewis pack
his belongings, Secretary Gallatin contributed a map of
Vancouver's sketch of the Columbia mouth, and Madison
rendered his parting benediction.
Out of the iron gate in the high rock wall in front of
the White House Meriwether went,—fit emblem of the
young Republic, slim and lithe, immaculate in new uniform
and three-cornered chapeau, his sunny thick-braided
queue falling over the high-collared coat,—to meet the
Potomac packet for Harper's Ferry. All around were
uncut forests, save the little clearing of Washington, and
up the umbrageous hills stretched an endless ocean of
tree-tops.
The wind blew up the Potomac, fluttering the President's
gray locks. "If a superior force should be arrayed
against your passage, return, Meriwether," was the
anxious parting word. "To your own discretion must
be left the degree of danger you may risk."
But Meriwether had no fears.
"Should you reach the Pacific Ocean,—endeavour to
learn if there be any port within your reach frequented by
sea-vessels of any nation, and to send two of your trusted
people back by sea, with a copy of your notes. Should
you be of opinion that the return of your party by the way
they went will be dangerous, then ship the whole, and
return by way of Cape Horn or the Cape of Good Hope.
As you will be without money, clothes or provisions, I
give you this open letter of credit authorising you to draw
on the Executive of the United States or any of its officers
in any part of the world. Our consuls at Batavia in Java,
at the Isles of France and Bourbon, and at the Cape of
Good Hope will be able to supply you necessities by drafts
on us."
For where in the world the Missouri led, no man then
knew!
"I have sometimes thought of sending a ship around
to you," said Jefferson, "but the Spaniards would be
certain to gobble it, and we are in trouble enough with
them already over this Louisiana Purchase."
Too well Lewis knew the delicacy of the situation.
Spain was on fire over the treachery of Napoleon.
"France has no right to alienate Louisiana!" was the
cry from Madrid. But what could she do? Nothing but
fume, delay, threaten,—Napoleon was master.
"Under present circumstances," continued the President,
"I consider futile all effort to get a ship to your
succour on those shores. Spain would be only too glad
to strike a blow. But there must be trade, there is trade,—all
through Adams's administration the Russians were
complaining of Yankee skippers on that northwest coast.
"Russia has aided us, I may call the Emperor my personal
friend." With pardonable pride the President
thought of the bust of Alexander over his study door at
Monticello. "Though Catherine did send poor Ledyard
back, Alexander has proved himself true, and in case any
Russian ship touches those shores you are safe, or English,
or American. This letter of credit will carry you through.
"And above all, express my philanthropic regard for
the Indians. Humanity enjoins us to teach them agriculture
and the domestic arts."
And after Lewis was fairly started, the President sent
on as a great secret, "I have received word from Paris
that Mr. Broughton, one of the companions of Captain
Vancouver, went up Columbia River one hundred miles
in December, 1792. He stopped at a point he named
Vancouver. Here the river Columbia is still a quarter of
a mile wide. From this point Mt. Hood is seen twenty
leagues distant, which is probably a dependency of the
Stony Mountains. Accept my affectionate salutations."
On the Fourth of July the same hand that drew up the
Declaration of Independence had drawn for Meriwether
Lewis a Letter of Credit, authorising him to purchase
anything he needed on the credit of the United States in
any part of the world. Was Jefferson thinking of those
days when George Rogers Clark gave drafts on New
Orleans for the conquest of Illinois? This again was
another venture into a dark unwritten West.
The next day Lewis "shot all his guns" at Harper's
Ferry, examined extra locks, knives, tomahawks, accoutrements
that had been manufactured at his special direction.
The waggoner from Philadelphia came jolting by
with Indian presents, astronomical apparatus, and tents
on the way to Pittsburg.
Pittsburg? A cloud of smoke hung even then over the
embryotic city. Two thousand miles inland, it already
had a flourishing ship-yard. Several large vessels lay on
the stocks and builders were hammering day and night.
"The 'Louisiana,' three hundred tons, is waiting for
the next rise of the river," said a strapping tar. "In May
a fleet of schooners went out to the Caribbees. You are
too late for this summer's freshet."
"Come, gentlemen, gentlemen all,
Ginral Sincleer shall remem-ber-ed be,
For he lost thirteen hundred me-en all
In the Western Tari-to-ree."
Captain Lewis took a second look at the singer,—it
was George Shannon standing on the dock.
"Why, Captain Lewis! Where are you going?"
George was an old friend of Meriwether's, and yet but
a lad of seventeen. His father, one of those "ragged
Continentals" that marched on Yorktown, had emigrated
to the far Ohio.
Jane Shannon was a typical pioneer mother. She spun,
wove, knit, made leggings of skins, and caps and moccasins,
but through multitudinous duties found time to teach
her children. "To prepare them for college," she said,
"that is my dream. I'd live on hoe-cake for ever to give
them a chance." Every one of her six boys inherited that
mother's spirit, every one attained distinction.
At fourteen George was sent to his mother's relatives
on the Monongahela to school. Here he met Lewis,
forted in that winter camp. The gallant Virginian captured
the boy's fancy,—he became his model, his ideal.
"And can you go?" asked Captain Lewis.
"Go? I will accompany you to the end of the world,
Captain Lewis," answered George Shannon. "There is
no time for mails,—I know I have my parent's consent.
And the pay, that will take me to college!" Shannon
enlisted on the spot, and was Lewis's greatest comfort in
those trying days at Pittsburg.
The boat-builders were drunkards. "I spent most of
my time with the workmen," wrote Lewis to the President,
"but neither threats nor persuasion were sufficient
to procure the completion before the 31st of August."
Loading the boat the instant it was done, they set out at
four o'clock in the morning, with John Collins of Maryland,
and George Gibson, Hugh McNeal, John Potts, and
Peter Wiser, of Pennsylvania, recruits that had been
ordered from Carlisle. Peter Wiser is believed to have
been a descendant of that famous Conrad Weiser who
gave his life to pacifying the Indian.
By this time the water was low. "On board my boat
opposite Marietta, Sept. 13," Lewis writes,—"horses or
oxen—I find the most efficient sailors in the present
state of navigation," dragging the bateaux over shallows
of drift and sandbars.
And yet that same Spring, when the water was high,
Marietta had sent out the schooners "Dorcas and Sally,"
and the "Mary Avery," one hundred and thirty tons,
with cheers and firing of cannon. When Lewis passed, a
three-mast brig of two hundred and fifty tons and a
smaller one of ninety tons were on the point of being
finished to launch the following Spring, with produce for
Philadelphia.
George Shannon was a handsome boy, already full
grown but with the beardless pink and white of youth.
His cap would not fit down over his curls, but lifted like
his own hopes. Nothing would start the boats at daylight
like his jolly, rollicking
"Blow, ye winds of morning,
Blow, blow, blow,"
rolling across the tints of sunrise. His cheeks glowed,
his blue eyes shone to meet the wishes of his captain.
Past the fairy isle of Blennerhassett with its stately
mansion half-hid behind avenues of Lombardy poplar and
tasteful shrubbery, Captain Lewis came on down to Fort
Washington, Cincinnati, where brigs had lately taken on
cargoes and sailed to the West Indies.
Bones? Of course Lewis wanted to look at bones and
send some to the learned President. Dr. Goforth of Cincinnati
was sinking a pit at the Big Bone Lick for remains
of the mammoth, and might not mammoths be stalking
abroad in all that great land of the West? Mystery,
mystery,—the very air was filled with mystery.
"Now that I have accepted President Jefferson's
proposal to be associated with Captain Lewis
in this expedition, it will oblige me to accept
brother Jonathan's offer of ten thousand dollars cash for
Mulberry Hill," William Clark was saying at Louisville.
"That will help out brother George on his military debts,
satisfy his claimants, and save him from ruin."
At the time of sale the old home was occupied by
General Clark and William Clark, and their sister Fanny
and her children. The departure of William for the
Pacific broke up and dispersed the happy family.
The General went back to the Point of Rock, fifty feet
above the dashing Ohio. That water was the lowest
ever known now, men could walk across on the rocks.
Three or four locust trees shaded the cabin, now painted
white, and an orchard of peach and cherry blossomed
below. Negro Ben and his wife Venus, and Carson and
Cupid, lived back of the house and cultivated a few acres
of grain and garden.
All of Clark's old soldiers remained loyal and visited
the Point of Rock, and every year an encampment of
braves, Indian chiefs whom he had subdued, came for
advice and to partake of his hospitality.
Grand and lonely, prematurely aged at fifty-one when
he should have been in his prime, General Clark sat overlooking
the Falls when Captain Lewis pulled his bateaux
into the Bear Grass.
Captain Clark and nine young men of Kentucky were
waiting for the boat,—William Bratton, a blacksmith,
formerly of Virginia, and John Shields, gunsmith, the
Tubal Cain of the expedition, John Coalter, who had been
a ranger with Kenton, the famous Shields brothers, Reuben
and James, William Warner and Joseph Whitehouse,
all experts with the rifle, Charles Floyd, son of that
Charles Floyd that rode with his brother from the death-stroke
of Big Foot, and Nathaniel Pryor, his cousin.
Twenty years had passed since that fatal April morning
when John Floyd was laid a corpse at the feet of Jane
Buchanan. That posthumous child, ushered so sadly into
the world, John Floyd the younger, now a handsome
youth, was eager to go with his cousins—but an unexpected
illness held him back—to become a member of
Congress and Governor of Virginia.
And York, of course York. Had he not from childhood
obeyed John Clark's command, "Look after your
young master"? With highest elation York assisted in
the preparation, furbished up his gun, and prepared to
"slay dem buffaloes."
"An interpreter is my problem now," said Captain
Lewis, "a man familiar with Indians, trustworthy, and
skilled in tongues."
"I think my brother will know the man,—he has
had wide experience in that line," said William; and so
down to the Point of Rock the Captains betook themselves
to visit George Rogers Clark.
"Dignity sat still upon his countenance and the commanding
look of Washington," wrote a chronicler of that
day.
"An interpreter?" mused General Clark. Then turning
to his brother, "Do you remember Pierre Drouillard,
the Frenchman that saved Kenton? He was a man
of tact and influence with the Indians, and, although he
wore the red coat, a man of humanity. He interpreted
for me at Fort McIntosh and at the Great Miami. He
comes with Buckongahelas."
William Clark remembered.
"That old Frenchman has a son, George, chip of the
old block, brought up with the Indians and educated at
a mission. He is your man,—at St. Louis, I think."
"Always demand of the Indians what you want, William,
that is the secret. Never let them think you fear
them. Great things have been effected by a few men
well conducted. Who knows what fortune may do for
you?" It was the self-same saying with which twenty-four
years before he had started to Vincennes. "Here
are letters to some of my old friends at St. Louis and
Kaskaskia," added the General.
All the negroes were out to weep over York, whom
they feared to see no more,—old York and Rose, Nancy
and Julia, Jane, Cupid and Harry, from the scattered
home at Mulberry Hill.
General Jonathan Clark and Major Croghan were
there, the richest men in Kentucky, and General Jonathan's
daughters who stitched their samplers now at
Mulberry Hill; and Lucy, from Locust Grove, the
image of William, "with face almost too strong for a
woman," some said. All the city knew her, a miracle
of benevolence and duty, and by her side the little son,
George Croghan, destined to hand on the renown of his
fathers.
William Clark's last word was for Fanny, a widow
with children. "It is my desire that she should stay
with Lucy at Locust Grove until my return," said the
paternal brother, kissing her pale cheek.
"And I want Johnny with me at the Point of Rock,"
added the lonely General, who, if he loved any one, it
was little John O'Fallon, the son of his sister Fanny.
"Bring on your plunder!"
The Kentuckians could be recognised by their call as
they helped the bateaux over the rapids and launched
them below. George Rogers Clark stood on the Point
of Rock, waving a last farewell, watching them down the
river.
While Captain Clark went on down the Ohio, and engaged
a few men at Fort Massac, Captain Lewis followed
the old Vincennes "trace" to Kaskaskia.
In that very September, Sergeant John Ordway, in
Russell Bissell's company, was writing home to New
Hampshire:
"Kaskaskia is a very old town of about two hundred
houses and ruins of many more. We lie on the hill in
sight of the town, and have built a garrison here.—If
Betty Crosby will wait for my return I may perhaps join
hands with her yet. We have a company of troops from
Portsmouth, New Hampshire, here."
Captain Lewis came up to the garrison. Out of twenty
volunteers only three possessed the requisite qualifications.
But Sergeant Ordway was one, Robert Frazer of
Vermont, another, and Thomas P. Howard, of Massachusetts,
the third.
Oppressed and anxious in mind over the difficulty of
finding suitable men, Captain Lewis was one morning
riding along when into the high road there ran out a
short, strong, compact, broad-chested and heavy-limbed
man, lean, sprightly, and quick of motion, in the dress
of a soldier. His lively eye instantly caught that of Captain
Lewis. Perceiving that the soldier was evidently
bent on seeing him, Lewis checked his horse and paused.
With military salute the man began: "Me name is
Patrick Gass, sorr, and I want to go with you to the
Stony Mountings, but my Commander, sorr, here at the
barracks, will not consint. He siz, siz he, 'You are too
good a carpenter, Pat, and I need you here.'"
His build, his manner, and the fact that Pat was a
soldier and a carpenter, was enough. Men must be had,
and here was a droll one, the predestined wit of the
expedition.
"I knew you, sorr, when I saw your horse ferninst
the trees. I recognised a gintleman and an officer. I
saw you whin I met Gineral Washington at Carlisle out
with throops to suppriss the Whiskey Rebillion. I met
Gineral Washington that day, and I sid, siz I, 'Gineral,
I'm a pathriot mesilf and I'll niver risist me gover'm'nt,
but I love ould Bourbon too well to inlist agin the whiskey
byes.'"
"And have you never served in the field?" roared
Lewis, almost impatient.
"Ah, yis; whin Adams was Prisident, I threw down
me jackplane and inlisted under Gineral Alexander Hamilton,
but there was no war, so thin I inlisted under Major
Cass."
Patrick glanced back and saw his Captain. "Hist
ye! shoulder-sthraps are comin'!"
Lewis laughed. "Go and get ready, Patrick; I'll
settle with your Captain." And Patrick, bent on a new
"inlistment" and new adventures, hied him away to
pack his belongings. For days in dreams he was already
navigating the Missouri, already he saw the blue Pacific.
As he told the boys afterward, "And I, siz I to mesilf,
'Patrick, let us to the Pecific!' Me Captain objicted,
but I found out where Captain Lewis was sthopping and
sthole away and inlisted annyhow."
Captain Lewis had made no mistake. Patrick Gass,
cheerful, ever brave, was a typical frontiersman. His
had been a life of constant roving. Starting from Chambersburg,
Pennsylvania, when he was five years old, the
family crossed the Alleghanies on packhorses. On the
first horse was the mother, with the baby and all the
table furniture and cooking utensils; on another were
packed the provisions, the plough-irons and farming
utensils; the third was rigged with a packsaddle and
two large cradles of hickory withes. In the centre of
these sat little Pat on one side and his sister on the other,
well laced in with bed-clothes so that only their heads
stuck out.
Along the edges of precipices they went,—if a horse
stumbled he would have thrown them hundreds of feet
below. On these horses they forded mountain streams,
swollen with melting snows and spring rains. Daily
were hairbreadth escapes, the horses falling, or carried
down with the current and the family barely snatched
from drowning.
The journey was made in April when the nights were
cold and the mother could not sleep. There was so much
to do for the children. As the tireless father kept guard
under the glow of the campfire, little Patrick's unfailing
good-night was, "Hist, child! the Injuns will come and
take you to Detroit!"
There were several of these moves in his childhood.
Here and there he caught glimpses of well-housed, well-fed
hirelings of the British army watching like eagles the
land of the patriot army. At last they turned up at what
is now Wellsburg in West Virginia. While yet a boy
Gass was apprenticed to a carpenter and worked on a
house for a man by the name of Buchanan, while around
him played "little Jimmy," the president-to-be. "Little
Jimmy was like his mother," said Gass.
In December Lewis and Clark dropped down before
the white-washed walls and gray stone parapets of the
old French town of St. Louis. With fierce consequential
air a Spanish soldier flourished his sword indicating the
place to land.
"We will spend the winter at Charette, the farthest
point of settlement." That was the town of Daniel
Boone.
But the Governor, Don Carlos De Hault De Lassus,
barred the way.
"By the general policy of my government I am obliged
to prevent strangers from passing through Spanish territory
until I have received official notice of its transfer."
Nothing could be done but to go into winter camp
opposite the mouth of the Missouri, just outside of his
jurisdiction, and discipline the men, making ready for
an early spring start.
Beyond the big river was foreign land. Did the Spaniard
still hope to stay?
Hark! Is that the boom of distant cannon? The
American troops are falling into line outside the
walls of New Orleans on this 20th day of December,
1803. The tri-colour of France floats on the flagstaff;
the sky shines irradiant, like the "suns of Napoleon."
It is high noon; another salute shakes the city. "Ho,
warder, lower the drawbridge!"
With chain-pulleys rattling down goes the bridge, never
to be lifted again. The fortress bell strikes its last peal
under the flag of France, or Spain. With thundering
tread American dragoons file under the portcullis of the
Tchoupitoulas gate, followed by cannoneers and infantry
in coonskin caps and leathern hunting shirts.
Curiously these sons of the forest look upon the old
world forts and donjons of masonry. The moat is filled
with stagnant water. The ramparts of New Orleans are
filled with soldiers from Havre and Madrid. The windows
and balconies are filled with beautiful women weeping,
weeping to see the barbarians.
Laussat was looking for Napoleon's soldiers, not a
sale. Pale as death he hands over the keys. Slowly the
tri-coloured flag of France at the summit of the flagstaff
in the plaza descends. Slowly the star-spangled banner
uplifts; half-way the two linger in one another's folds.
As the flags embrace, another boom, and answering
guns reply from ship and fort and battery around the
crescent of New Orleans. The flags are parting,—it is
a thrilling moment; up, up, steadily mounts the emblem
of America and bursts on the breeze.
The band breaks into "Hail, Columbia," amid the roar
of artillery and shouting of backwoodsmen. The map of
France in the new world has become the map of the
United States.
"The flag! the flag!" Veterans of the French army
receive the descending tri-colour, and followed by a procession
of uncovered heads bear it with funereal tread to
Laussat.
"We have wished to give to France a last proof of the
affection which we will always retain for her," with
trembling lip speaks the flag-bearer. "Into your hands
we deposit this symbol of the tie which has again transiently
connected us with her."
And Laussat with answering tears replies, "May the
prosperity of Louisiana be eternal."
But of all in New Orleans on this historic day, none
fear, none tremble like Sister Infelice, in the cloister of
the Ursulines. She seems to hear the very sabres beat on
the convent wall. When a tropic hurricane sweeps up the
gulf at night she falls on the cold stone floor and covers
her head, as if the very lightning might reveal that form
she loved so well, the great Virginia colonel. To Infelice
he was ever young, ever the heroic saviour of St. Louis.
That time could have changed him had never occurred to
her,—he was a type of immortal youth.
Infelice never speaks of these things, not even to her
father confessor; it is something too deep, too sacred, a
last touch of the world hid closer even than her heart.
And yet she believes he is coming,—that is the cause of
all this tumult and cannonading. Her hero, her warrior
wants her, and none can stay him.
And when the cession is fairly over and he comes not,
the disappointment prostrates her utterly. "He cares, he
cares no more! The Virginians? Did you say the Virginians
had come?"
From that bed of delirium the Mother Superior of the
Ursuline house sent for the Mayor.
"I beg to be allowed to retire with my sisterhood to
some point under the protection of His Catholic Majesty
of Spain."
"Going!" exclaimed Monsieur le Mayor of New
Orleans. "For why? You shall not be disturbed, you
shall have full protection."
"Do you stand for France, revolution and infidelity?"
gasped the aged mother, denouncing the Mayor.
The people pled, the Mayor went down on his knees.
"Do not abandon our schools and our children!" But
the Mother Superior was firm.
Twenty-two years had the Donna De Leyba been a nun.
The old official records are lost, but out of twenty-five
nuns in the establishment we know the sixteen of Spain
went away.
All New Orleans gathered to see them depart. When
the gun sounded on Whitsunday Eve, sixteen women in
black came forth, heavily veiled. The convent gardens
were thronged with pupils, slaves knelt by the wayside,
the Mayor and populace followed until they embarked
on the ship and sailed to Havana.
The old Ursuline convent of New Orleans is now the
archbishop's palace. Sister Infelice is gone, but near
some old cloister of Cuba we know her ashes must now
be reposing. Henceforth the gates were open. The wall
decayed, the moat was filled, and over it to-day winds the
handsomest boulevard in America.
The flatboatmen came home with romantic tales of the
land of the palmetto and orange, luxuries unknown in the
rigorous north. The tide of emigration so long held in
check burst its bounds and deluged Louisiana.
Among other Americans that settled at New Orleans
was the Fighting Parson. His son Charles Mynn Thruston
had married Fanny.
"Glass we must have, and quicksilver. Wife,
let me have the mirror."
The Madame threw up her hands. "The
precious pier glass my dead mother brought over from
France? What shall we have left?"
"But Rosalie, this is an emergency for the government.
The men must have thermometers, and barometers,
and I have no glass."
"The President will pay for the glass, Madame; he
would consider it the highest use to which it could be
put," said Captain Lewis.
"And you shall have a better one by the next ship
that sails around from France."
So as usual to everything the Doctor wished, the good
woman consented. None had more unbounded faith in
Dr. Saugrain's gift of miracles than his own wife.
The huge glass, that had reflected Parisian scenes for
a generation before coming to the wilds of America, was
now lifted from its gilt frame and every particle of
quicksilver carefully scraped from the back. Then the
pier plate was shattered and the fragments gathered, bit
by bit, into the Doctor's mysterious crucible, making the
country people watch and wonder.
So long had Meriwether Lewis been with Jefferson,
that he had imbibed the same eager desire to know, to
understand. When he met with Doctor Saugrain it was
like a union of kindred spirits. Saugrain, the pupil,
friend, and disciple of the great Franklin, was often with
the American scientist when he experimented with his
kites, and drew down lightning to charge his Leyden jars.
Three times Dr. Saugrain came to America, twice as
guest of Dr. Franklin, before he settled down as physician
to the Spanish garrison at St. Louis in 1800. With
him he brought all his scientific lore, the latest of the
most advanced city in the world. When all the world
depended on flint and steel, Paris and Dr. Saugrain made
matches. He made matches for Lewis and Clark that
were struck on the Columbia a generation before Boston
or London made use of the secret.
Bitterly the cheerful, sprightly little Royalist in curls
lamented the French Revolution. "Oh, the guillotine!
the guillotine! My own uncle, Dr. Guillotine, invented
that instrument to save pain, not to waste life. But
when he saw his own friends led up to the knife, distressed
at its abuse he died in despair!"
Sufficient reason had Dr. Saugrain to be loyal to Louis
XVI. For more than two hundred years his people had
been librarians, book-binders, and printers for the King.
Litterateurs and authors were the Saugrains for six continuous
generations, and out of their scientific and historical
publications came the bent of Dr. Antoine François
Saugrain of St. Louis. But when the Bastile was
stormed, Saugrain left France for ever. An emigré, a
royalist, with others of the King's friends he came to the
land that honoured Louis XVI.
Between the Rue de l'Église and the Rue des Granges,
at the extreme southwestern limit of the old village of
St. Louis, stood Dr. Saugrain's modest residence of
cement with a six-foot stone wall around it and extensive
gardens. In his "arboretum" Dr. Saugrain was
making a collection of the most attractive native trees
he found around St. Louis, and some there, imported
from Paris, cast their green shadows on the swans
of his swimming pond, an old French fancy for his
park.
In this happy home with its great library, Captain
Lewis became a welcome guest in that winter of 1803-4
while waiting for the cession. Under the Doctor he pursued
his scientific studies, medicine, surgery, electricity,
for not even Dr. Barton in Philadelphia could surpass
the bright little Frenchman so strangely transplanted
here in this uttermost border.
The Doctor's taper fingers were always stained with
acids and sulphur; busy ever with blowpipe and crucible,
he fashioned tubes, filled in quicksilver, graduated
cases, and handed out barometers and thermometers that
amazed the frontier.
"Great Medicine!" cried the Indians when he gave
them a shock of electricity. How Dr. Saugrain loved
to turn his battery and electrify the door-knobs when
those bothersome Indians tried to enter! Or, "Here,
White Hair, is a shilling. You can have it if you will
take it out." The Osage chieftain plunges his arm into
a crock of electrified water to dash off howling with
affright.
With intense interest Captain Lewis stood by while
the chemist-physician dipped sulphur-tipped splints of
wood into phosphorus, and lo! his little matches glowed
like Lucifer's own. "You can make the sticks yourself,"
he said. "I will seal the phosphorus in these small tin
boxes for safety."
"And have you any kine-pox? You must surely carry
kine-pox, for I hear those Omahas have died like cattle
in a plague."
"President Jefferson particularly directed me to carry
some kine-pox virus," replied Captain Lewis, "but really,
what he gave me seems to have lost its virtue. I wrote
him so from Cincinnati, but fear it will be too late to
supply the deficiency."
Out of his medicine chest in the corner, the little Doctor
brought the tiny vials. "Sent me from Paris. Carry
it, explain it to the Indians, use it whenever you can,—it
will save the life of hundreds." And other medicines,
simple remedies, the good savant prescribed, making up
a chest that became invaluable in after days.
Other friends were Gratiot and the Chouteaus, Auguste
and Pierre. It was Auguste that had planned the
fortifications of St. Louis, towers and bastions, palisades,
demilunes, scarps, counter-scarps, and sally ports, only
finished in part when the city was handed over.
Long since had Carondelet offered rewards to the
traders of St. Louis to penetrate to the Pacific. Already
the Chouteau boats had reached the Mandan towns, but
freely they gave every information to the American
Captain.
"I send you herewith enclosed," wrote Lewis to the
President, "some slips of the Osage plum and apple.
Mr. Charles Gratiot, a gentleman of this place, has
promised that he would with pleasure attend to the
orders of yourself, or any of my acquaintances who may
think proper to write him on the subject. I obtained
the cuttings now sent you from the gardens of Mr.
Peter Chouteau, who resided the greater portion of his
time for many years with the Osage nation.
"The Osage might with a little attention be made to
form an ornamental and useful hedge. The fruit is a
large oval plum, of a pale yellow colour and exquisite
flavour. An opinion prevails among the Osages that
the fruit is poisonous, though they acknowledge they
have never tasted it."
The leaders of all the French colonies on the Mississippi
were gentlemen of education and talent. They saw
what the cession meant, and hailed it with welcome. But
the masses, peaceable, illiterate, with little property and
less enterprise, contented, unambitious, saw not the future
of that great valley where their fathers had camped
in the days of La Salle. Frank, open, joyous, unsuspecting,
wrapped in the pleasures of the passing hour,
they cared little for wealth and less for government provided
they were not worried with its cares. Their children,
their fruits and flowers, the dance—happy always
were the Creole habitants provided only they heard the
fiddle string. Retaining all the suavity of his race, the
roughest hunter could grace a ballroom with the carriage
and manners of a gentleman.
Meanwhile Captain Clark was drilling the men at
camp after the fashion of Wayne. Other soldiers had
been engaged at Fort Massac and elsewhere,—Silas
Goodrich, Richard Windsor, Hugh Hall, Alexander Willard,
and John B. Thompson, a surveyor of Vincennes.
Never had St. Louis such days! Hurry, hurry and
bustle in the staid and quiet town that had never before
known any greater excitement than a church festival or
a wedding,—never, that is, since those days of war when
George Rogers Clark saved and when he threatened.
But now Lewis and Clark made a deep impression on
the villagers of the power and dignity of the United
States Government. Out of their purchases every merchant
hoped to make a fortune; the eager Frenchmen
displayed their wares,—coffee, gunpowder, and blankets,
tea at prices fabulous in deerskin currency and
sugar two dollars a pound.
But Lewis already had made up his outfit,—richly
laced coats, medals and flags from Jefferson himself,
knives, tomahawks, and ornaments for chiefs, barrels of
beads, paints and looking-glasses, bright-coloured three-point
Mackinaw blankets, a vision to dazzle a child or
an Indian, who is also a child.
George Drouillard was found, the skilled hunter.
There was a trace of Indian in Drouillard; his French
fathers and grandfathers had trapped along the streams
of Ohio and Canada since before the days of Pontiac, in
fact, with Cadillac they had helped to build Detroit.
Every part of America was represented in that first
exploring expedition,—Lewis, the kinsman of Washington,
and Clark from the tidewater cavaliers of old
Virginia, foremost of the fighting stock that won Kentucky
and Illinois, Puritan Yankees from New England,
Quaker Pennsylvanians from Carlisle, descendants of
landholders in the days of Penn, French interpreters and
adventurers whose barkentines had flashed along our
inland lakes and streams for a hundred years, and finally,
York, the negro, forerunner of his people.
Cruzatte and Labiche, canoemen, were of old Kaskaskia.
Pierre Cruzatte was near-sighted and one-eyed,
but what of that? A trusted trader of the Chouteaus,
he had camped with the Omahas, and knew their tongue
and their country. Could such a prize be foregone for
any defect of eyesight?
Accustomed to roving with their long rifles and well-filled
bullet pouches, nowhere in the world could more
suitable heroes have been found for this Homeric
journey.
News of the sale had reached St. Louis while Captain
Lewis was struggling with those builders at Pittsburg.
"Sacre! Diable!" exclaimed the French. Some loved
France, some clung to Spain, some shook their heads.
"De country? We never discuss its affaires. Dat ees
de business of de Commandante."
The winter of 1803-4 was very severe. In November
the ice began running and no one could cross until February.
Then Captain Amos Stoddard, at Kaskaskia with
his troops, sent a letter to Don Carlos De Hault De Lassus
by a sergeant going on business to Captain Lewis.
On top of the hill a double stockade of logs set vertically,
the space between filled with dirt, a two-story log
building with small windows and a round stone tower
with a pointed cap of stone,—that was the fort where
the Spanish soldiers waited.
Down below, inhabitants in blue blanket capotes and
blue kerchiefs on their heads, now and then in red toque
or a red scarf to tie up their trousers, wandered in the
three narrow lanes that were the streets of St. Louis,
waiting. Before them flowed the yellow-stained, eddy-spotted
Mississippi, behind waved a sea of prairie grass
uninterrupted by farm or village to the Rockies.
Spring blossomed. Thickets of wild plum, cherry,
wild crab-apples, covered the prairie. Vanilla-scented
locust blooms were shaking honey-dew on the wide verandas
of the old St. Louis houses, when early in the
morning of May 9, American troops crossed the river
from Cahokia, and Clark's men from the camp formed
in line with fife and drum, and colours flying. At their
head Major Amos Stoddard of Boston and Captain Meriwether
Lewis of Virginia led up to the Government
House.
Black Hawk was there to see his Spanish Father. He
looked out.
"Here comes your American Father," said the Commandant
De Lassus.
"I do not want two Fathers!" responded Black Hawk.
Dubiously shaking his head as the Americans approached,
Black Hawk and his retinue flapped their
blankets out of one door as Stoddard and Captain
Lewis entered the other.
Away to his boats Black Hawk sped, pulling for dear
life up stream to his village at Rock Island. And with
him went Singing Bird, the bride of Black Hawk.
"Strange people have taken St. Louis," said the Hawk
to his Sacs. "We shall never see our Spanish Father
again."
A flotilla of Frenchmen came up from Kaskaskia,—Menard,
Edgar, Francis Vigo, and their friends. Villagers
left their work in the fields; all St. Louis flocked
to La Place d'Armes in front of the Government House
to see the transfer.
In splendid, showy uniforms, every officer of the
Spanish garrison stood at arms, intently watching the
parade winding up the limestone footway from the boats
below.
With its public archives and the property of a vast
demesne, Don Carlos De Hault De Lassus handed over
to Major Stoddard the keys of the Government House
in behalf of France. A salvo of cannonry shook St.
Louis.
"People of Upper Louisiana," began De Lassus in a
choked and broken voice, "by order of the King, I am
now about to surrender this post and its dependencies.
The flag which has protected you during nearly thirty-six
years will no longer be seen. The oath you took
now ceases to bind. Your faithfulness and courage in
upholding it will be remembered for ever. From the
bottom of my heart I wish you all prosperity."
De Lassus, Stoddard, Lewis, Clark, and the soldiers
filed up the yellow path, past the log church, to the fort
on the hill. The Spanish flag was lowered; De Lassus
wept as he took the fallen banner in his hand, but as the
Lilies of France flashed in the sun the Creoles burst into
tumultuous cheers. Not for forty years had they seen
that flag, the emblem of their native land. Cannon
roared, swords waved, and shouts were heard, but not
in combat.
The gates were thrown open; out came the Spanish
troops with knapsacks on their backs, ready to sail away
to New Orleans. The old brass cannon and munitions
of war were transported down the hill, while the American
soldiers in sombre uniforms filed into the dingy old
fort of Spain.
Major Stoddard sent for the French flag to be taken
down at sunset.
"No, no, let it fly! Let it fly all night!" begged the
Creoles, and a guard of honour went up to watch the
flickering emblem of their country's brief possession.
All night long that French flag kissed the sky, all
night the guard of honour watched, and the little log
church of St. Louis was filled with worshippers. All the
romance of Brittany and Normandy rose to memory.
René Kiercereau the singer led in ballads of La Belle
France, and the glories of fields where their fathers
fought were rehearsed with swelling hearts. Not the
real France but an ideal was in their hearts, the tradition
of Louis XIV.
That was the last day of France in North America.
As the beloved banner sank the drums gave a long funeral
roll, but when, instead, the red, white, and blue
burst on the breeze, the fifes struck into lively music and
the drums rained a cataract.
"Three cheers for the American flag!" cried Charles
Gratiot in the spirit of the Swiss republic, but there were
no cheers. The Creoles were weeping. Sobs, lamentations
arose, but the grief was mostly from old Frenchmen
and their wives who so long had prayed that the
Fleur de Lis might wave above San Loui'. Their sons
and daughters, truly, as Lucien Bonaparte had warned
Napoleon, "went to bed good Frenchmen, to awake and
find themselves Americans."
The huge iron cock in the belfry of the old log church
spun round and round, as if it knew not which way the
wind was blowing. In three days three flags over St.
Louis! No wonder the iron cock lost its head and spun
and spun like any fickle weather vane.
In the same square with the Government House stood
one of the Chouteau mansions. Auguste Chouteau had
been there from the beginning, when as a fearless youth
with Laclede he had penetrated to the site of the future
San Loui' in 1764. He was a diplomat who met Indians
and made alliances. He had seen the territory pass under
Spain's flag, and in spite of that had made it more and
more a place of Gallic refuge for his scattered countrymen.
He had welcomed Saugrain, Cerré, Gratiot, in
fact,—he and his brother Pierre remembered the day
when there was no San Loui'.
A band of Osage chiefs had come in to see their great
Spanish father. With wondering eyes they watched the
cession, and were handed over to Captain Lewis to deal
with in behalf of the United States. A French messenger
was sent ahead with a letter to the tribe.
"The Americans taken San Loui'?"
Manuel Lisa, the Spaniard, was disgusted,—it broke
up his monopoly of the Osage trade. "We will not haf
the Americans!"
The Osages burnt the letter.
The winter of 1802-3 had been uncommonly severe.
Unknown to George Shannon, that winter his
father hunting in the dense woods of Ohio lost his
way in a snow-storm and was frozen to death. Unaware
of the tragedy at home, unaware also of his own inherited
facility for getting lost, the boy set out up the winding
staircase of the wild Missouri.
An older brother, John, nineteen years of age, became
the stay of that widowed mother with her seven small
children, the least a baby, Wilson Shannon, twice the
future Governor of Ohio and once the Governor of
Kansas.
With a pad on his knee every soldier boy wrote home
from the camp on River Dubois opposite the mouth of
the Missouri. Down through the years Sergeant Ordway's
letter has come to us.
"Camp River Dubois, April the 8th, 1804.
"Honoured Parents,—I now embrace this opportunity
of writeing to you once more to let you know where I am
and where I am going. I am well thank God and in high
Spirits. I am now on an expedition to the westward, with
Capt. Lewis and Capt. Clark, who are appointed by the
President of the United States to go on an Expedition
through the interior parts of North America. We are to
ascend the Missouri River with a boat as far as it is
navigable and then to go by land to the western ocean, if
nothing prevents. This party consists of twenty-five picked
men of the armey and country likewise and I am so happy
as to be one of them picked from the armey and I and all
the party are if we live to return to receive our discharge
whenever we return again to the United States if we choose
it. This place is on the Mississippi River opposite to the
mouth of the Missouri River and we are to start in ten
days up the Missouri River, this has been our winterquarters.
We expect to be gone 18 months or two years, we
are to receive a great reward for this expedition when we
return. I am to receive 15 dollars a month and at least 400
ackers of first rate land and if we make great discoveries as
we expect the United States has promised to make us great
rewards, more than we are promised, for fear of accidents
I wish to inform you that [personal matters].
I have received no letters since Betseys yet but will write
next winter if I have a chance.
"Yours, etc.,
"John Ordway, Segt.
"To Stephen Ordway,
Dumbarton, N.H."
The boats were ready, the red pirogue and the
white, from St. Louis, fresh painted, trim and slim
upon the water, and the big bateau, fifty-five feet
from stem to stern, with setting poles, sweeps, a square
sail to catch the breeze, and twenty-two oars at the
rowlocks.
Down under the decks and in the cabins, had been
packed the precious freightage, government arms, rifles
made at Harper's Ferry under Lewis's own superintendence,
tents, ammunition, bales and boxes of Indian
presents, provisions, tools. Into the securest lockers went
Lewis's astronomical instruments for ascertaining the
geography of the country, and the surgical instruments
that did good service in the hands of Clark.
Nothing was forgotten, even small conveniences,
candles, ink, mosquito bars. It took half a million to
send Stanley to Africa. For twenty-five hundred dollars
Lewis and Clark made as great a journey.
To assist in carrying stores and repelling Indian attacks,
Corporal Warfington and six soldiers had been
engaged at St. Louis and nine French boys of Cahokia,
inured to the paddle and the camp. Feather-decked and
beaded they came, singing the songs of old Cahokia to
start the little squadron.
The Americans had knives in their belts, pistols in their
holsters, knapsacks on their backs, powder horns and
pouches of ammunition, ink horns and quills, ready to
face the wilderness and report. Lewis encouraged every
one to keep a journal.
"I niver wint to school but nineteen days in me boyhood
and that was whin I was a man," said Patrick Gass.
But what Pat lacked in books he made up in observation
and shrewd reasoning; hence it fell out that Patrick Gass's
journal was the first published account of the Lewis and
Clark expedition. All honour to Patrick Gass. Of such
are our heroes.
The cession was on Wednesday, May 9, 1804, and all
the men were there but a few who guarded camp. At
three o'clock the following Monday, May 14, Captain
Clark announced, "All aboard!" The heavy-laden
bateau and two pirogues swung out, to the voyageurs'
chanson, thrilling like a brass band as their bright new
paddles cut the water:
"A frigate went a-sailing,
Mon joli cœur de rose,
Far o'er the seas away,
Joli cœur d'un rosier,
Joli cœur d'un rosier."
And hill and hollow echoed,
"San Chawle!" cried Cruzatte the bowsman at two
o'clock, Wednesday, when the first Creole village hove in
sight. At a gun, the signal of traders, all St. Charles
rushed to see the first Americans that had ever come up
the Missouri. And straggling behind the Frenchmen
came their friends, the Kickapoos of Kaskaskia, now on
a hunt in the Missouri.
"Meet us up the river with a good fat deer," said
Captain Clark. The delighted Kickapoos scattered for
the hunt.
Five days the boats lay at St. Charles, waiting for
Captain Lewis who was detained fixing off the Osage
chiefs at St. Louis.
Patrick Gass wrote in his journal, "It rained." Sergeant
Floyd adds, "Verry much Rain." Captain Clark
chronicles, "Rain, thunder, and lightning for several
days." But never on account of a flurry of rain did the
sociable French of St. Charles fail in polite attentions to
their guests on the river bank.
On Sunday, boats were descried toiling up from St.
Louis with a dozen gentlemen, who had come to escort
Captain Lewis and bid "God speed!" to the expedition.
Captain Stoddard was there, and Auguste Chouteau,
availing himself of every opportunity to forward the
enterprise. Monsieur Labbadie had advice and Gratiot
and Dr. Saugrain, little and learned, with the medicine
chest.
With throbbing hearts the captains stole a moment for
a last home letter to be sent by the returning guests.
"My route is uncertain," wrote Clark to Major Croghan
at Locust Grove. "I think it more than probable
that Captain Lewis or myself will return by sea."
"Bon voyage! bon voyage, mes voyageurs!" cried all
the French habitants of St. Charles, waving caps and
kerchiefs to answering cheers from the crew and the
guns. "Bonsoir et bon voyage—tak' care for you—prenez
garde pour les sauvages." With a laugh the
voyageurs struck up a boat song.
The boats slid away into the west, that West where
France had stretched her shadowy hand, and Spain, and
England. The reign of France fell with Montcalm on
the Heights of Abraham, flickering up again only in that
last act when Napoleon gave us Louisiana.
"The Kickapoos! The Kickapoos!" Through bush
and brier above St. Charles, the bedraggled Indians came
tugging down to the shore four fine fat deer. Bacon
fare and hardtack were relegated to the hold. From that
hour Lewis and Clark threaded the gameland of the
world.
"Joost wait onteel dey get ento de boofalo!" commented
those wise young voyageurs, Cruzatte and Drouillard,
nodding at one another as the cooks served out the
savoury meat on the grass, and every man drew forth his
long hunting-knife and little sack of salt.
"Where is my old friend, Daniel Boone?" inquired
Captain Clark, three days later at Charette, the last settlement
on the Missouri border. This, but for Spanish interference,
would have been their camping station the
previous winter. Colonel Boone, six miles from the
Missouri, was holding court beneath his Judgment
Tree.
The June rise of the Missouri was at hand. Days of
rain and melting snows had set the mad streams whirling.
The muddy Missouri, frothing, foaming, tore at its
ragged banks that, yawning, heavily undermined, leaped
suddenly into the water. Safety lay alone in mid-stream,
where the swift current, bank-full and running like a
millrace, bore down toward the Mississippi.
To stem it was terrific. In spite of oars and sails and
busy poling, the bateau would turn, raked ever and anon
with drifts of fallen trees. And free a moment, some
new danger arose. Down out of sight, water-soaked logs
scraped the keel with vicious grating. And above, formidable
battering-rams of snags sawed their black heads
up and down defiantly, as if Nature herself had blockaded
the way with a chevaux de frise.
Poles broke, oars splintered, masts went headlong, the
boat itself careened almost into the depths. It was a desperate
undertaking to stem the mad Missouri in the midst
of her wild June rise.
But that very rise, so difficult to oppose upstream, was
a sliding incline the other way. May 27, two canoes
loaded with furs came plunging full tilt out of the north.
"Where from? What news?"
"Two months from the Omaha nation, seven hundred
miles up the river," sang out the swiftly passing Frenchmen
bound for St. Louis.
Behind them a huge raft,—
"From the Pawnees on the Platte!"
And yet behind three other rafts, piled, heaped, and
laden to the water's edge,—
"From the Grand Osage!"
Such alone was greeting and farewell, as the barks,
unable to be checked, went spinning down the water.
What a gala for the winter-bound trapper! Home
again! home again! flying down the wild Missouri in
the mad June rise! They stopped not to camp or to hunt,
but skimming the wave, fairly flew to St. Louis. They
came, those swift-gliding boats, like visions of another
world, the world Lewis and Clark were about to enter.
June 5, two more canoes flashed by with beaver,—
"From eighty leagues up the Kansas river!"
June 8, boats with beaver and otter slid by, and rafts
of furs and buffalo tallow,—
"From the Sioux nation!"
Dorion, an old Frenchman on a Sioux raft, engaged to
go back with Lewis and Clark to interpret for them the
language of his wife's relations.
A thousand miles against the current! Now and then
a southwest wind would fill out the big square-cut sail
and send the heavy barge ploughing steadily up. Again,
contrary winds kept them on the walking boards all day
long, with heads bent low over the setting-pole.
Warm and warmer grew the days. Some of the men
were sunstruck. The glitter of sun on the water inflamed
their eyes. Some broke out with painful boils, and mosquitoes
made night a torture.
Now and then they struck a sand-bar, and leaping into
the water the voyageurs ran along shore with the cordelle
on their shoulders, literally dragging the great boat into
safety.
"Mon cher Captinne! de win' she blow lak' hurricane!"
cried the voyageurs.
Down came the prairie gale, almost a tornado, snapping
the timber on the river-banks, and lashing the water
to waves that surged up, over, and into the boats. The
sky bent black above them, the fierce wind howled, and
the almost exhausted men strained every nerve to hold
the rocking craft.
"I strong lak' moose, not 'fraid no t'ing," remarked
Cruzatte, clambering back into the boat wet as a drowned
kitten.
Hot and tired, June 26 they tied up at the mouth of
Kansas River. "Eat somet'ing, tak' leetle drink also,"
said the voyageurs. On the present site of Kansas City
they pitched their tents, and stretched their limbs from
the weariness of canoe cramp.
"The most signs of game I iver saw," said Patrick
Gass, wandering out with his gun to find a bear. "Imince
Hurds of Deer," bears in the bottoms, beaver, turkeys,
geese, and a "Grat nomber of Goslins," say the
journals, but not an Indian.
"Alas!" sighed the old voyageurs with friendly pity.
"De Kansas were plaintee brave people, but de Sac and
de Sioux, dey drive 'em up de Kansas River."
Cæsar conquered Gaul, but the mercatores were there
before him. Lewis and Clark ascended the Missouri,
but everywhere the adventurous Frenchmen had gone
before them, peddlers of the prairie, out with Indian
goods buying skins.
But now Americans had come. The whippoorwill
sang them to sleep, the wolf howled them awake. The
owl inquired, "Who? Who? Who?" in the dark treetops
at the mouth of the Kansas River.
On, on crept the boats, past grand old groves of oak
and hickory, of walnut, ash, and buckeye, that had stood
undisturbed for ages. Swift fawn flitted by, and strange
and splendid birds that the great Audubon should come
one day to study. On, on past the River-which-Cries,
the Weeping Water, the home of the elk. Tall cottonwoods
arose like Corinthian columns wreathed with ivy,
and festoons of wild grape dipped over and into the
wave.
The River-which-Cries marked the boundary of two
nations, the Otoes and Omahas. Almost annually its
waters were reddened with slaughter. Then came the
old men and women and children from the Otoe villages
on the south and from the Omahas on the north and
wept and wept there, until it came to be known as Nehawka,
the Weeping Water.
July came and the waters were falling. With a fair
wind, on the 21st they sailed past the mouth of the great
river Platte. In the summer evening Lewis and Clark
in their pirogue paddled up the Platte.
"Here I spen' two winter wit' de Otoe," said Drouillard
the hunter. "De Otoe were great nation, but de
Sioux an' de 'Maha drove dem back on de Pawnee."
"And the Pawnees?"
"Dey built villages an' plant corn an' wage war wid
de Osage."
Ten days later preparations were made to meet the
Otoes at Council Bluffs. On a cottonwood pole the flag
was flying. A great feast was ready, when afar off,
Drouillard and Cruzatte were seen approaching with
their friends.
"Boom," went the blunderbuss, and the council smoke
arose under an awning made of the mainsail of the
bateau. Every man of the expedition, forty-five in all,
paraded in his best uniform.
Lewis talked. Clark talked. All the six chiefs expressed
satisfaction in the change of government. They
begged to be remembered to their Great Father, the
President, and asked for mediation between them and
the Omahas.
"What is the cause of your war?"
"We have no horses," answered the childlike Otoes.
"We borrow their horses. Then they scalp us. We
fear the Pawnees also. We very hungry, come to their
village when they are hunting, take a little corn!"
The Captains could scarce repress a smile, nor yet a
tear. Thefts, reprisals, midnight burnings and slaughter,
this was the reign immemorial in this land of anarchy.
In vain the tribes might plant,—never could they reap.
"We poor Indian," was the universal lament.
Severely solemn, Lewis and Clark hung medals on the
neck of each chief, and gave him a paper with greetings
from Thomas Jefferson with the seals of Lewis and
Clark impressed with red wax and attached with a blue
ribbon.
"When you look at these, remember your Great
Father. You are his children. He bids you stop war
and make peace with one another." In 1860, the Otoe
Indians exhibited at Nebraska City those identical papers,
borne for more than half a century in all their homeless
wanderings, between flat pieces of bark and tied with
buckskin thongs.
Then gifts were distributed and chiefs' dresses. With
more handshakings and booming of cannon, the flotilla
sailed away that sultry afternoon one hundred years
ago. The chiefs stood still on the shore and wonderingly
gazed at one another.
"These are the peacemakers!"
A week later Lewis and Clark entered the Omaha
country and raised a flag on the grave of Blackbird.
Encamping on a sandbar opposite the village, Sergeant
Ordway and Cruzatte were dispatched to summon the
chiefs. Here Cruzatte had traded two winters. Up
from the river he found the old trails overgrown. Breaking
through sunflowers, grass, and thistles high above
their heads, they came upon the spot where once had
stood a village. Naught remained but graves.
The Omahas had been a military people, feared even
by the Sioux, the Kansas, and the far-away Crows.
Strange mystery clung to Blackbird. Never had one
so powerful ruled the Missouri. At his word his enemy
perished. Stricken by sudden illness, whoever crossed
the will of Blackbird died, immediately, mysteriously.
Then came the smallpox in 1800. Blackbird himself
died and half his people. In frenzy the agonised
Omahas burnt their village, slew their wives and children,
and fled the fatal spot,—but not until they had
buried Blackbird. In accord with his last wish, they
took the corpse of the Omaha King to the top of the
highest hill and there entombed him, sitting upright on
his horse that he might watch the traders come and go.
And one of those traders bore in his guilty heart the
secret of Blackbird's power. He had given to him a
package of arsenic. Blackbird and Big Elk's father went
to St. Louis in the days of the French and made a treaty.
A portrait of the chief was then painted that is said to
hang now in the Louvre at Paris.
A delegation of Otoes had been persuaded to come up
and smoke the peace-pipe with the Omahas. But not an
Omaha appeared. And the Otoes, released from overwhelming
fear, Big Horse and Little Thief, Big Ox and
Iron Eyes, smoked and danced on the old council ground
of their enemies, whose scalps they had vowed to hang
at their saddle bow.
Sergeant Floyd danced with the rest that hot August
night, and became overheated. He went on guard duty
immediately afterward, and lay down on a sandbar to
cool. In a few moments he was seized with frightful
pains.
Nathaniel Pryor awakened the Captains.
"My cousin is very ill."
All night Lewis and Clark used every endeavour to
relieve the suffering soldier. At sunrise the boats set
sail, bearing poor Floyd, pale and scarce breathing.
There was a movement of the sick boy's lips,—
"I am going away. I want you to write me a letter."
And there, on the borders of Iowa, he dispatched his
last message to the old Kentucky home. When they
landed for dinner Floyd died.
With streaming tears Patrick Gass, the warm-hearted,
made a strong coffin of oak slabs. A detail of brother
soldiers bore the body to the top of the bluff and laid it
there with the honours of war, the first United States
soldier to be buried beyond the Mississippi, and on a
cedar post they carved his name.
With measured tread and slow the soldiers came down
and camped on Floyd's River below, in the light of the
setting sun.
Years passed. Around that lovely height, Floyd's
Bluff, Sioux City grew. Travellers passed that way and
said, "Yonder lies Charles Floyd on the bluff." Relic
hunters chipped away the cedar post. Finally, the Missouri
undermined the height, and the oakwood coffin
came near falling into the river, but it was rescued and
buried farther back in 1857. Recently a magnificent
monument was dedicated there, to commemorate his
name and his mission for ever,—the first light-bearer
to perish in the West.
A few days later a vote was cast for a new sergeant
in the place of Floyd, and Patrick Gass received the
honour. Every day Floyd had written in his journal,
and now it was given into the hand of Captain Clark to
be forwarded, on the first opportunity, to his people.
"What river is this, Dorion?" Captain Lewis
had thrown open his infantry uniform to
catch the cooling gust down a silver rift in
the shore.
"Petite Rivière des Sioux. Go to Des Moines country.
Pass tro te Lake of te Spirit, full of islands. Lead to Dog
Plain, Prairie du Chien, four days from te Omaha country.
Des Sioux—"
Dorion drew his forefinger across his throat and lapsed
into silence. They were his people, he would not traduce
them. But his listeners understood,—the Sioux
were "cut-throats," this was their name among the
tribes.
The voyageurs trembled, "Bon Dieu! le Sioux sauvage,
he keel de voyageur an' steal deir hair!"
The Sioux, the terrible Sioux, were dog Indians, ever
on the move, raiding back and forth, restless and unsleeping.
Almost to Athabasca their travoises kicked
up the summer dust, their dog trains dragged across the
plains of Manitoba. On the Saskatchewan they pitched
their leather tents and chased the buffalo; around Lake
Winnipeg they scalped the Chippeways. At the Falls of
St. Anthony they spread their fishing nets, and at Niagara
Falls the old French Jesuits found them.
Now they were stealing horses. For horses, down the
Mississippi they murdered the Illinois. For horses, the
Mandan on the upper Missouri heard and trembled.
"The Sioux! the Sioux!" The Ponca paled in his mud
hut on the Niobrara, the Omaha retreated up the Platte,
the Cheyenne hid in the cedar-curtained recesses of the
Black Hills.
More puissant than the Six Nations of the Iroquois,
the Sioux Confederacy dominated from the Red River
of the North to the Red River of Texas. Wilder than
the Comanches they rode, more cunning in theft than the
Crows, more bloodthirsty than the Blackfeet. On the red
man's triple plea for war,—horses, scalps, and wives,—the
Sioux were pirates of the streams and despots of
the prairie.
Mettlesome with the bow, fiery in battle, strong, brave,
wild, kings of the hills and monarchs of the trails, they
ruled the earth in splendid savagery. The buffalo was
theirs, the beaver and the deer, and woe betide the rival
that poached on their preserves. Did the poor Shoshone
venture beyond the Rockies, he was flayed and burned
alive. No lake, no stream, no river between the Mississippi
and the Rockies remained unstained by their red
hatchet.
And what a chapter when the traders came! Unwritten
yet are those days of fierce and constant battle.
Even Dorion himself dreaded the daring freebooters
into whose tribe he had married. His own offspring partook
of the wild fierce spirit of their people. Like eaglets
or young panthers, they clutched at him with claws and
talons,—with difficulty the little Frenchman held them
back as the lion-tamer holds the whelps.
Of Dorion's possessions the Sioux took what they
pleased. For the privilege of trading he smiled and gave
them all, then in generosity he was heaped with skins.
Dorion knew the Sioux, knew their best and worst.
Somewhere in this Sioux country his faithful spouse was
waiting; he was looking for her now,—a model squaw,
a tireless slave who dug his roots and made his garments,
brought his wood and water, and, neglected, bore his
children.
"Pilicans! pilicans!"
It was the voice of Patrick Gass, beyond the Little
Sioux. A low sand island was covered with huge, white,
web-footed beauties fishing in the chocolate Missouri.
When the scrimmage was over two handsome birds lay
in the bateau, one, the queen of the flock, brought down
by Lewis himself. She was a splendid specimen, six feet
from tip to tip, pure white with a tinge of rose, and an
enormous pouch full of fish under her bill.
"Out with the fish. Let us measure that pouch."
Lewis's enthusiasm was contagious. All hands gathered
while he poured in water, five gallons.
"The average capacity is but two," said Captain Clark.
"We must preserve this trophy."
To-day that beautiful bird, of strong maternal instincts,
is the emblem of the State of Louisiana.
Again Lewis put the question, "What stream,
Dorion?"
"Te Great Sioux! Two hundret mile to te Sioux Fall,
an' beyont—almost to St. Peters."
A smile relaxed old Dorion's leathern face,—
"Below te Fall, a creek from te cliffs of red rock.
All Indian get te peace-pipe. No battle dere, no war."
Of the famous red pipestone quarry old Dorion spoke,
the beautiful variegated rock out of which resplendent
Dakota cities should be built in the future.
"Te rock ees soft, cut it wit te knife, then hard and
shining."
All tribes, even those at war, could claim asylum at the
red pipestone. The Sioux came, and the Pawnee, to camp
on its banks and fashion their calumets. The soft clay
pipes, hardened into things of beauty, were traded from
tribe to tribe, emblems and signals of peace. Captain
Lewis himself had one, bought in St. Louis, brought
down from that quarry by some enterprising French
trader.
"Buffalo! buffalo! buffalo!" A grand shout arose
at sight of the surging herds. "Plaintee boofalo now,"
said the voyageurs. Upon the led horses along shore,
Clark and Joseph Fields dashed away for a first shot.
Again rejoicing cooks went hunting up the kettles, and
the whole expedition paused a day for a grand hunt.
"Te Yankton Sioux!" joyfully announced old Dorion,
as they neared the familiar chalk bluffs of "des rivière
Jaques, tat go almost to te Red Rivière of te Winnipeg."
All over these streams old Dorion had trapped the beaver.
With Sergeant Pryor and another, Dorion set out for
the Indian camp. The Yankton Sioux saw the white men
approaching and ran with robes to carry them in state to
camp.
"No," answered the Sergeant, "we are not the commanders.
They are at the boats."
Dorion led the way to his wigwam. His polite old
squaw immediately spread a bearskin for them to sit on.
Another woman killed a dog, cut it up, and boiled it
and gave it to them to eat, a token of friendship.
Forty clean and well-kept lodges were in this Yankton
village, of dressed buffalo and elk skin, painted red and
white and very handsome. And each lodge had a cooking
apartment attached.
Under the Calumet bluffs the flag was flying when the
Yankton Sioux came down in state and crossed the river
to the council. The Yankton Sioux were reputed to be
the best of their nation, and brave as any, with their necklaces
of bear's claws, paints, and feathers. They were
kingly savages, dignified and solemn, with heads shaved
to the eagle plume, and arrayed in robes wrought with
porcupine quills.
With Dorion as interpreter Captain Lewis delivered
the usual speech, and presented flags, medals, and a chief's
dress, a richly laced coat, cocked hat, and red feather.
The ceremonious Indians withdrew to consider a suitable
answer.
The next morning again the chiefs assembled, solemnly
seated in a row with enormous peace-pipes of red stone
and stems a yard long, all pointing toward the seats intended
for Lewis and Clark.
But the great Indian diplomats did not hasten.
"Ha!"
Even the stoic Sioux could not refrain from an ejaculation
of admiration as they half rose, pipe in hand, to
gaze in awe and wonder as the white chiefs entered the
council. No such traders ever came up the Missouri, no
such splendid apparitions as the Red Head Chief and his
brother, pink and white as the roses on the river Jaques.
Captain Lewis habitually wore his sunny hair in a
queue; to-day it was loosened into a waving cataract, and
Clark, slipping off his eelskin bag, let his red locks fall,
a strange and wondrous symbol. No such red and gold
had ever been seen in the Indian country. With pale
berries they stained their porcupine quills, with ochre
painted the buffalo lodges, with vermilion rouged their
faces, but none like these growing on the heads of men!
Seating themselves with all due dignity, Lewis and
Clark scarce lifted their eyes from the ground as the
Grand Chief, Weucha, extended his decorated pipe in
silence. A full hour elapsed before Weucha, slipping his
robe to give full play to his arm, arose before them.
"I see before me my Great Father's two sons. We
very poor. We no powder, ball, knives. Our women and
children at the village no clothes. I wish my brothers
would give something to those poor people.
"I went to the English, they gave me a medal and
clothes. I went to the Spanish, they gave me a medal.
Now you give me a medal and clothes. Still we are poor.
I wish you would give something for our squaws."
Then other chiefs spoke. "Very poor. Have pity on
us. Send us traders. We want powder and ball."
Deadly as were the Sioux arrows,—one twang of
their bowstring could pierce a buffalo,—yet a better
weapon had crossed their vision. Firearms, powder, ball,
fabulous prices, these problems changed Indian history.
Congratulating themselves on this favourable encounter
with the dreaded Sioux, and promising everything,
Lewis and Clark went forward with renewed courage.
More and more buffaloes dotted the hills, and herds
of antelope, strange and new to science.
"I must have an antelope," said Lewis.
At that moment he saw seven on a hilltop. Creeping
carefully near, they scented him on the wind. The wild
beauties were gone, and a similar flock of seven appeared
on a neighbouring height.
"Can they have spanned the ravine in this brief time?"
He looked, and lo! on a third height and then a fourth
they skimmed the hills like cloud shadows, or winged
griffins of the fabled time, half quadruped and half bird.
"A cur'ous lill animal here, Captain," said one of the
hunters, handing him a limp little body. Its head was
like a squirrel's. Lewis stroked the long fine hair.
"What is it?"
Cruzatte, the bowman, paddle in hand, leaned over,
peering with his one near-sighted but intelligent eye.
"Ha! ha! ha! le petit chien!" he laughed. "Live in
te hole een te prairie. Leetle dog. Bark, yelp, yelp,
yelp, like te squirrel. All over te countree, whole towns,"
spreading his brown hands expressively.
After this lucid explanation the Captains, Lewis and
Clark, set out for a prairie-dog town. A few yelps, heels
in air, the town was deserted save for the tiny mounds
that told where each had hidden.
"Let us drown one out."
Forthwith, every man came puffing up with big brass
kettles full of water.
"Five barrels," says Clark in his journal, "were
poured into the holes but not a dog came out," and Patrick
Gass adds, "Though they worked at the business
until night they only caught one of them."
More and more the hills were thronged with buffalo.
Even York, Captain Clark's black servant, went out and
killed two at one ride.
On the top of a high bluff the men had found the
skeleton of a huge fish, forty-five feet long and petrified.
"Blow, ye winds of morning,
Blow, blow, blow—"
George Shannon, the boy of the expedition, had enlivened
many a sunrise with his jolly, rollicking Irish songs.
But Shannon was lost! On the 28th of August he had
gone out to look for the strayed horses. It was now
September. Captain Lewis was wild, for at his request
George had joined the expedition and at his order he
had gone after the horses. Hunters had sought in every
direction, guns had been fired and the blunderbuss, and
smokes had been kindled from point to point.
"Shannon!" A great shout went up as the forlorn
boy, emaciated and weary, came dragging into camp on
the 11th of September.
It was a short story, soon told. He found the horses
and followed by mistake the trail of recent Indians, which
he mistook for footprints of the party. For days he followed
the trail, exhausted his bullets, and lived on wild
grapes and a rabbit he killed with a stick. But he heard
no guns, saw no smoke.
In despair at last he came down to the river, to discover
that all this time he had been travelling ahead of the
boats! The fatted buffalo-calf was killed and great was
the rejoicing, and at daylight next morning, Shannon's
"Blow, ye winds of morning,
Blow, blow, blow,"
rang again joyously over the Missouri.
"Danger! Quick! The bank is caving!"
At one o'clock in the night the guard gave the startled
cry. Barely was there time to loosen the boats and push
into midstream before the whole escarpment dropped like
an avalanche over the recent anchorage. Thus in one instant
might have been blotted out the entire expedition,
to remain for all time a mystery and conjecture.
On the evening of September 24 the cooks and a guard
went ashore to get supper at the mouth of the river
Teton, the present site of Pierre, South Dakota. Five
Indians, who had followed for some time, slept with the
guard on shore.
Early next morning sixty Indians came down from a
Sioux camp and the Captains prepared for a council.
Under the flag and an awning, at twelve o'clock the company
paraded under arms. Dorion had remained behind
at the Yankton village, so with difficulty, by the aid of
Drouillard and much sign language, a brief speech was
delivered. Black Buffalo, head chief, was decorated with
a medal, flag, laced coat, cocked hat, and red feather,
nor were the rest forgotten with smaller gifts, medals,
and tobacco.
The Captains would have gone on, but, "No! No!"
insisted Black Buffalo, seizing the cable of Clark's departing
pirogue.
Finally Clark and several of the men rowed them
ashore. But no sooner had they landed than one seized
the cable and held the boat fast. Another flung his arms
around the mast and stood immovable.
"Release me," demanded Clark, reddening at evidence
of so much treachery.
Black Buffalo advanced to seize Clark. The Captain
drew his sword. At this motion Captain Lewis, watching
from the bateau, instantly prepared for action.
The Indians had drawn their arrows and were bending
their great bows, when the black mouth of the blunderbuss
wheeled toward them.
At this Black Buffalo ordered his men to desist, and
they sullenly fell away, but never was forgotten that time
when the Teton Sioux attempted to carry off Captain
Clark.
"We wished to see the boat more," said the Indians,
by way of excuse. "We wished to show it to our wives
and children."
To conciliate and to depart without irritation, Captain
Clark offered his hand. The chiefs refused to take it.
Turning, Clark stepped into the boat and shoved off.
Immediately three warriors waded in after him, and he
brought them on board. That night the whole expedition
slept under arms, with the Indians as guests. At
daylight crowds of Indian men, women, and children
waited on shore in the most friendly manner.
Ten well-dressed young men took Lewis and Clark up
on a highly decorated robe and carried them up to the
council tent. Dressed like dandies, seventy Indians sat
in this roomy council hall, the tail feathers of the golden
eagle scarce quivering in their topknots. Impressively
in the centre on two forked sticks lay the long peace-pipe
above a bed of swan's down.
Outside, the redmen were roasting a barbecue. All
day they sat and smoked, and ate of buffalo beef and
pemmican. After sunset a huge council fire illuminated
the interior of the great lodge, and the dance began.
Wild Indian girls came shuffling with the reeking scalps
of Omahas, from a recent raid. Outside twenty-five
Omaha women prisoners and their children moaned in
the chill of an icy autumn night. It was their trail that
Shannon had followed for sixteen days.
About midnight, fatigued by the constant strain of
watchful anxiety, the Captains returned to the boats.
But not yet were they safely away. "To oars! to oars!
the cable's parted!"
The Indians heard the call.
"The Omahas! the Omahas!" rang the cry up from
the Teton camp, that on every wind anticipated the whoop
of retaliating Omahas in search of their stolen wives and
children.
Then followed pandemonium of rushing Indians and
frightened calls. All night, with strained eyes, every
man held his rifle ready as they lay unanchored on the
water.
At daylight the wily Indians held the ropes and still
detained the boats. Resort to force seemed inevitable.
Flinging a carat of tobacco, "Black Buffalo," said Lewis,
"you say you are a great chief. Prove it by handing me
that rope." Flattered, Black Buffalo gave the rope, and
thankfully the boats pulled out with no more desire to
cultivate the Sioux.
"What will they find?" asked the people of
the United States, discussing the journey of
Lewis and Clark.
"Numerous powerful and warlike nations of savages,
of gigantic stature, fierce, treacherous, and cruel, and
particularly hostile to white men."
"The mammoth of prehistoric time feeding from the
loftiest forests, shaking the earth with its tread of
thunder."
"They will find a mountain of solid salt glistening in
the sun with streams of brine issuing from its caverns."
"They will find blue-eyed Indians, white-haired, fairer
than other tribes, planting gardens, making pottery, and
dwelling in houses."
"Oh, yes," said the Federalists, "Jefferson has invented
these stories to aggrandise the merit of his purchase.
They never can cross the mountains. Human
enterprise and exertion will attempt them in vain."
"It was folly! folly to send those men to perish miserably
in the wilderness! It was a bold and wicked
scheme of Jefferson. They will never return alive to
this country."
Had not Jefferson himself in his anxiety directed Lewis
and Clark to have recourse to our consuls in Java, the
Isles of France and Bourbon, and the Cape of Good
Hope? Heaven alone knew whither the Missouri—Columbia
might lead them!
But the white Indians—
In the history of Wales there is a story that on account
of wars in Wales a Welsh Prince in 1170 "prepared certain
shipps, with men and munition, and sought adventures
by seas, sailing west, and leaving the coast of
Ireland so farre north, that he came to land unknowne,
where he saw many strange things.... This Madoc
arriving in the countrey, in the which he came in the
year 1170, left most of his people there, and returning
back for more of his nation, went thither again with ten
sails," and was never again heard of.
Six hundred years later Welshmen in America imagined
that they could talk with some tribes, who said
"they came from white people but were now Indians,"
and the legend was related that white people had once
lived on the Atlantic coast, but had so many wars they
crossed the mountains and made boats and went down
the Ohio and up the Missouri, "where to this day live
the fair-haired, blue-eyed Mandans."
Our grandfathers believed this story, believed these
whites might have been cut off at the Falls of the Ohio
and some escaped. This is the excuse that Cornstalk
gave to Lord Dunmore for the attack at Point Pleasant:
"Long ago our fathers destroyed the whites in a great
battle at the Falls of the Ohio. We thought it might be
done again."
As if in proof of this statement, George Rogers
Clark and other first explorers at the Falls found Sand
Island at low water a mass of hacked and mutilated
human bones, whether of Indians or whites, no man
could tell.
And here now were Lewis and Clark, in the Autumn
of 1804, among the fabled Mandans, and here before
them was a Mr. Hugh McCracken, an Irishman, and
René Jussaume, a Frenchman, independent traders, who
for a dozen winters had drawn their goods on dog sleds
over from the British fort on the Assiniboine to trade
with the Mandans for buffalo robes and horses. Thirty
dogs they owned between them, great Huskies of the
Eskimo breed.
Jussaume was immediately engaged as interpreter, and
the first Sunday was spent in conversation with Black
Cat, head chief of the Mandans. All day the hospitable
blue-eyed, brown-haired Mandan women, fairer than
other Indians, kept coming in with gifts of corn, boiled
hominy, and garden stuffs, raised by their own rude
implements. Girls of ten years old with silver-gray hair
hanging down to their knees stood around and listened.
Yes, they had earthen pots and gardens, even extensive
fields of corn, beans, squashes, and sunflowers,
and houses—mud huts. They lived in little forted
towns that had been moved successively up, up, up the
Missouri.
"I believe what you have told us," said one of the
chiefs in the great council on Monday. "We shall now
have peace with the Ricaras. My people will be glad.
Then our women may lie down at night without their
moccasins on. They can work in the fields without looking
every moment for the enemy."
"We have killed the Ricaras like birds," said another,
"until we are tired of killing them. Now we will send
a chief and some warriors to smoke with them."
Thus was the first effort for peace in the Mandan
country.
The high chill wind almost blew down the awning
over the great council. The men paraded up from the
boats, the blunderbuss was fired from the bow of the big
bateau, the long reed-stemmed stone-bowled pipes were
smoked in amity.
"Here are suits of clothes for your chiefs," said Lewis,
handing out of a wooden chest the handsome laced uniforms,
cocked hats, and feathers. "To your women I
present this iron corn-mill to grind their hominy."
The solemn, sad-faced chiefs took the clothes and put
them on. The women flew at the corn-mill. All day
long they ground and ground and wondered at "the
great medicine" that could make meal with so little
trouble. Mortars and pestles were thrown behind the
lodges, discarded.
The next day Mr. McCracken set out on his return to
Fort Assiniboine, one hundred and fifty miles away, with
a friendly letter to the Chief Factor, Chaboillez, enclosing
the passport of Lewis and Clark from the British
minister at Washington.
Yes, a passport,—so uncertain was that boundary—never
yet defined. Where lay that line? To the sources
of the Mississippi? But those sources were as hidden
as the fountain of the Nile. No white man yet had seen
Itasca.
Since before the Revolution the Chaboillez family had
traded at Michilimackinac. They were there in the days
when Wabasha descended on St. Louis, and had a hand
in all the border story.
While Lewis was negotiating with the Indians, Captain
Clark set out with Black Cat to select a point where
timber was plenty to build a winter camp.
"Hey, there! are ye going to run aff and leave me all
to mesilf?" exclaimed Patrick Gass, head carpenter, busy
selecting his tools and equipments. "Niver moind, I can
outwalk the bist o' thim."
Strong, compact, broad-chested, heavy-limbed, but lean,
sprightly, and quick of motion, Pat was soon at the side
of his Captain. "I can show ye a pint or two about
cabins, I'm thinkin'."
Clark smiled. He knew something about cabins
himself.
The day was fine and crowds of Indians came to watch
proceedings as Clark's men began to cut the tall cottonwoods
and roll up the cabins.
Every day the Indians came in crowds to watch the
wonderful building of the white men's fort, the deer-skin
windows and mud-plastered chimneys. Turning loose
their horses, all day long the red men lay on the grass
watching the details of this curious architecture. At
night, gathering an armful of cottonwood boughs
stripped from the fort timber, each fed his horse and
meandered thoughtfully homeward in the red sunset.
One day two squaws came, a leathery old dame and a
captive Indian girl from the Rocky Mountains,—the
handsome young Sacajawea, the Bird-Woman.
"She my slave," said Charboneau, a Frenchman in
blanket capote and kerchief around his head. "I buy
her from de Rock Mountain. I make her my wife."
Charboneau lived with the Minnetarees, friends and
neighbours of the Mandans.
Shahaka, the Big White Head Chief, came, too, with
his squaw packing on her back "one hundred pounds of
very fine meat." Whenever Shahaka crossed the river
his squaw picked up the buffalo-skin canoe and carried
it off on her back. Those canoes were made exactly like
a Welsh coracle.
The days grew colder, the frost harder. Ice began to
run in the river and the last boats in from the hunt
brought thirty-two deer, eleven elk, and buffalo that
were jerked and hung in the winter smoke-house.
By November 20 the triangular fort was ready,—two
rows of cabins of four rooms each, with lofts above
where, snug and warm under the roof next to the chimneys,
the men slept through the long cold winter nights
on beds of grass, rolled up in their blankets and fuzzy
robes of buffalo.
In the frosty weather there came over the prairies
from Fort Assiniboine seven Northwest traders, led by
François Antoine Larocque and Charles Mackenzie, with
stores of merchandise to trade among the Mandans.
They immediately waited upon Lewis and Clark.
"We are not traders," said the Americans, "but explorers
on our way to the Pacific."
Through Larocque's mind flashed the journey of Sir
Alexander Mackenzie and its outcome. That might
mean more than a rival trader. "He is distributing flags
and medals among the Mandans," came the rumour.
"In the name of the United States I forbid you from
giving flags and medals to the Indians, as our Government
looks upon those things as sacred emblems of the
attachment of the Indians to our country," said Captain
Lewis to Monsieur Larocque when next he called at
Fort Mandan.
"As I have neither flags nor medals, I run no risk of
disobeying those orders, I assure you," answered the easy
Frenchman.
"You and all persons are at liberty to come into our
territories to trade or for any other purpose, and will
never be molested unless your behaviour is such as would
subject an American citizen himself to punishment,"
continued Lewis.
"And will the Americans not trade?"
"We may and shall probably have a public store well
assorted of all kinds of Indian goods. No liquors are to
be sold."
"A very grand plan they have schemed," muttered
Larocque, as he went away, "but its being realised is
more than I can tell."
While talking with the Captains, Larocque had an eye
on a Hudson's Bay trader who had appeared on the scene.
"Beg pardon. I must be off," said Larocque, slipping
out with Charboneau to outwit if possible the Hudson's
Bay man and reach the Indians first. But before
he got off a letter arrived from Chaboillez that altered all
plans.
Unknown to Lewis and Clark, though they gradually
came to discover it, hot war was waging in the north.
For the sake of furs, rival traders cut and carved and
shot and imprisoned each other. For the sake of furs
those same traders had held Detroit thirteen years beyond
the Revolution. Furs came near changing the balance
of power in North America.
The old established Hudson's Bay Company claimed
British America. The ambitious, energetic Northwesters
of Montreal disputed the right. And now that Sir
Alexander Mackenzie, a Canadian bourgeois, had become
a famous explorer, knighted by the King, jealousies
broke out in the Northwest company itself.
Simon McTavish, lord of the Northwesters, who had
done all he could to hold the Lakes for Britain, would
rule or ruin. But the Northwesters swore by Mackenzie.
So the two factions fought each other, and both fought
the Hudson's Bay Company.
"The Northwesters are no better than they ought to
be," said the men of Hudson's Bay. "They sent an embassy
to Congress in 1776." In fact a little change in
the balance might have thrown the Northwesters over to
the American side and altered the history of a continent.
"The quarrelling traders of the North are almost as
bad as the Indians," said Lewis,—"they demoralise
and inflame the Indians."
"Trade with me," said Hudson's Bay. "The Northwesters
will cheat you."
"Trade with me," said the Northwester. "Hudson's
Bay are bad men."
With troubled eyes the Indians listened, then scalped
them both. Some bloody tales that North could tell,
around the plains of lovely Winnipeg, out on the lone
Saskatchewan, and over to Athabasca.
But now the Americans,—this was a new force in
the West.
December 1, the Americans began to cut and carry
pickets to complete the high stockade and gate across
the front of Fort Mandan. December 6 it was too cold
to work, and that night the river froze over in front of
the fort with solid ice an inch and a half thick.
At nine o'clock next morning Chief Shahaka, Big
White, came puffing in with news.
"De boofalo! de boofalo!" interpreted Jussaume, listening
intently to the long harangue of the chief who
was making all sorts of sign language and excitedly
pointing up the river.
"De boofalo, on de prairie, comin' eento de bottom."
In short order Lewis, Clark, and fifteen men were out
with the Indians mounted on horseback. Then came the
din and chase of battle, a sight to fire the blood and thrill
the calmest heart.
Riding among the herd, each Indian chose his victim,
then, drawing his arrow to the last notch of the bowstring,
let it fly. Another and another whizzed from
the same string until the quiver was exhausted. The
wounded beast, blinded by its mane, sometimes charged
the hunter. But the swift steed, trained for the contest,
wheeled and was gone. The buffalo staggered for
a little, then, struck in a mortal part, fell headlong,
pawing up the dust and snow in frantic efforts to rise
and fly.
Into the midst came the Captains and their men, and
every man brought down his buffalo. At twelve degrees
below zero and in a northwest wind, Lewis and his men
started out again the next morning to chase the herds
that darkened the prairie. The air was filled with frosty
flakes, the snow was deep and clinging, but all day and
until after dark the exciting hunt held them to the saddle,
and only when they came to the fire did the participants
realise that their hands and feet were frostbitten.
Cold and colder grew the days. Two suns shone in
the sky, prognosticator of still deeper frost. Brilliant
northern lights glowed along the Arctic, but still they
chased the buffalo until the morning of December 13,
when Dr. Saugrain's thermometer stood twenty degrees
below zero at sunrise. In fur caps, coats, mittens, and
double moccasins they brought home horseload after
horseload of juicy beef to hang in the winter storehouse.
And fortunately, too, for one day they awoke to find
the buffalo gone.
Some winters there was great suffering for food among
the Mandans, but this was destined to be a year of plenty.
Out of their abundance the chiefs, also, came to the fort
with their dog sleds loaded with meat for their friends at
the garrison.
On Christmas eve the stockade was finished and the
gate was shut. With forty-five men and a blunderbuss
Fort Mandan stood impregnable to any force
the northern savages could bring against it.
But there was no hostility,—far from it. From curiosity
or for trade the Indians came in throngs, until on
Christmas eve Captain Lewis sent out the announcement:
"Let no one visit us to-morrow. It is our great
medicine day."
Before daylight the wondering redmen were aroused
from their buffalo couches by three volleys fired from
the fort. Awe-struck they sat up and whispered: "White
men making medicine." At sunrise a flag was floating
above the palisade, but no Indian ventured to approach
the mysterious newly closed walls of Fort Mandan.
For his Christmas stocking every man received an allowance
of flour, dried apples, and pepper, which together
with corn, beans, squash, and unlimited buffalo meat and
marrow bones made out a Christmas feast.
At one o'clock the gun was fired for dinner. At two
came the signal for the dance.
"Play up ole fashion reel. Everybody he mus' dance,"
said Cruzatte, tuning his fiddle. "We'll do our possible."
Cruzatte and Gibson played, Gass and Shannon led,
Clark called the changes; and with crackling fires, and
a stamping like horses, away up there under the Northern
stars the first American Christmas was celebrated on the
upper Missouri.
Three wide-eyed spectators sat ranged around the
walls. These were the squaws of the interpreters, Madame
René Jussaume, and the two wives of Charboneau,
Madame the old dame, and Sacajawea, the beautiful Indian
captive stolen beyond the Rockies.
The Indians, in their cheerless winter villages, found
much to attract them at the fort of the white men. Soon
after Christmas, William Bratton and John Shields set
up their forge as blacksmiths, gunsmiths, and armourers.
Day after day, with the thermometer forty degrees below
zero, a constant procession of Indians came wending
in on the well-beaten snow-track, with axes to grind and
kettles to mend. It seemed as if all the broken old kettles
that had ever drifted into the country, from Hudson's
Bay or Fort William or up from St. Louis, were carried
to Fort Mandan filled with corn to pay for mending.
Especially the Indians wanted battle-axes, with long
thin blades like the halberds of ancient warfare. Some
wanted pikes and spears fixed on the pointed ends of their
long dog-poles. A burnt-out old sheet-iron cooking stove
became worth its weight in gold. For every scrap of it,
four inches square, the Indians would give seven or eight
gallons of corn, and were delighted with the exchange.
These bits of square sheet iron were invaluable for
scrapers for hides, and every shred of cutting that fell to
the ground was eagerly bought up to fashion into arrow
tips. Metal, metal, metal,—the sine qua non of civilisation
had come at last to the Mandans.
While Bratton was busy over his forge, and Shields at
the guns, some of the men were out hunting, some were
cutting wood to keep the great fires roaring, and some
were making charcoal for the smithy.
So the days went on. New Year's, 1805, was ushered
in with the blunderbuss. By way of recreation the captains
permitted the men to visit the Indian villages where
crowds gathered to see the white men dance, "heeling it
and toeing it" to the music of the fiddles. The white
men in turn were equally diverted by the grotesque figures
of the Indians leaping in the buffalo dances.
Captain Clark noted an old man in one of the Mandan
villages and gave him a knife.
"How old are you?"
"More than one hundred winters," was the answer.
"Give me something for the pain in my back."
But a grandson rebuked the old man. "It isn't worth
while. You have lived long enough. It is time for you
to go to your relations who can take better care of you
than we can."
The old man settled back in his robes by the fire and
said no more.
"What accident has happened to your hand?" inquired
Lewis of a chief's son.
"Grief for my relatives," answered the boy.
It was a Mandan custom to mutilate the body, as a
mark of sorrow for the dead, until some had lost not only
all their fingers, but their ears and hair. Sacred ceremonies
of flagellations, knife thrusts into the flesh,
piercing with thorns and barbaric crucifixions,—thirty
years later George Catlin found these still among the
Mandans, and ascribed them to an effort to perpetuate
some Christian ceremonial of a remote ancestry.
Could it have been a corrupted tradition of the crucifixion
of Christ? Who can tell? The Welsh of 1170
were Catholic Christians who believed in self-inflicted
penance to save the soul. Degraded, misguided, interblent
with Indian superstition through generations, it
might have come to this.
But everywhere, at feast or council, one walked as conqueror,—Clark's
negro servant, York. Of fine physical
presence and remarkable stature, very black and very
woolly, York was viewed as superhuman.
"Where you come from?" whispered the awe-struck
savages.
Grinning until every ivory tooth glistened, and rolling
up the whites of his eyes, he would answer, "I was running
wild in the wood, and was caught and tamed by my
mastah." Then assuming an air of ferocity, York would
exhibit feats of strength that to the Indians seemed really
terrible.
"If you kill white men we make you chief," the Arikaras
whispered in his ear. York withstood great temptation,—he
fought more battles than Clark.
"Delay! delay! delay!" was the Indian plea at every
village. "Let our wives see you. Let our children see,
especially the black man."
From Council Bluffs to Clatsop, children followed
York constantly. If he chanced to turn, with piercing
shrieks they ran in terror.
"Mighty warrior. Born black. Great medicine!"
sagely commented the wise old men, watching him narrowly
and shaking their heads at the unheard-of phenomenon.
Even his jerks, contortions, and grimaces seemed
a natural part of such a monstrosity. York was a perpetual
exhibit, a menagerie in himself.
In these holiday visits to the Mandan towns a glimpse
was caught of domestic life. Wasteful profusion when
the buffalo came, when the buffalo left, days of famine.
Then they opened their cellar-holes of corn and vegetables,
hidden away as a last resource in protracted siege
when the Sioux drove off the game and shut them up in
their picketed villages.
So often were the horses of the Mandans stolen, that
it had become a habitual custom every night to take them
into the family lodge where they were fed on boughs and
bark of the cottonwood. All day long in the iciest
weather, the wrinkled, prematurely aged squaws were
busy in the hollows, cutting the horse-feed with their
dull and almost useless knives. On New Year's day Black
Cat came down with a load of meat on his wife's back.
A happy woman was she to receive a sharp new knife to
cut her meat and cottonwood.
It was easy to buy a Mandan wife. A horse, a gun,
powder and ball for a year, five or six pounds of beads,
a handful of awls, the trade was made, and the new spouse
was set to digging laboriously with the shoulder-blade of
an elk or buffalo, preparing to plant her corn.
The Indian woman followed up the hunt, skinned and
dressed the buffalo, and carried home the meat. Indian
women built the lodges and took them down again, dragging
the poles whenever there were not horses enough
for a summer ramble.
When not at the hunt or the council, the warrior sat
cross-legged at his door, carving a bow, pointing an
arrow, or smoking, waited upon by his squaw, who never
ate until the braves were done, and then came in at the
last with the children and the dogs. Wrinkled and old at
thirty, such was the fate of the Indian girl.
Sunday, January 13, Charboneau came back from a
visit to the Minnetarees at Turtle Mountain with his
face frozen. It was fortunate he returned with his life.
Many a Frenchman was slain on that road, many an
imprecation went up against the Assiniboine Sioux,—"Les
Gens des Grands Diables du Nord," said Charboneau.
Touissant Charboneau, one of the old Canadian French
Charboneaus, with his brothers had tramped with Alexander
Henry far to the north under sub-arctic forests,
wintered on the Assiniboine, and paddled to Winnipeg.
Seven years now he had lived among the Minnetarees, an
independent trader like McCracken and Jussaume, and
interpreter for other traders.
Moreover, Charboneau was a polygamist with several
wives to cook his food and carry his wood and water.
But he had been kind to the captive Indian girl, and her
heart clung to the easy-going Frenchman as her best
friend. The worst white man was better than an Indian
husband.
Captured in battle as a child five years before, Sacajawea
had been brought to the land of the Dakotas and
sold to Charboneau. Now barely sixteen, in that February
at the Mandan fort she became a mother. Most of
the men were away on a great hunting trip; when they
came back a lusty little red-faced pappoose was screaming
beside the kitchen fire.
The men had walked thirty miles that day on the ice
and in snow to their knees, but utterly fatigued as they
were, the sight of that little Indian baby cuddled in a deerskin
robe brought back memories of home.
Clark came in with frosty beard, and moccasins all
worn out.
"Sacajawea has a fine boy," said Lewis.
No wonder the Captains watched her recovery with
interest. All winter they had sought an interpreter for
those far-away tongues beyond the mountains, and no
one could be found but Sacajawea, the wife of Charboneau.
Clark directed York to wait on her, stew her
fruit, and serve her tea, to the great jealousy of Jussaume's
wife, who packed up her pappooses in high dudgeon
and left the fort. Sacajawea was only a slave. She,
Madame Jussaume, was the daughter of a chief!
Poor little Sacajawea! She was really very ill.
If she died who would unlock the Gates of the
Mountains?
Charboneau was a cook. He set himself to preparing
the daintiest soups and steaks, and soon the "Bird
Woman" was herself again, packing and planning for
the journey.
Busy every day now were Lewis and Clark making up
their reports and drawing a map of the country. Shahaka,
Big White, came and helped them. Kagohami of
the Minnetarees came, and with a coal on a robe made a
sketch of the Missouri that Clark re-drew.
But in the midst of the map-making all the Indian
talk was of "war, war, war."
"I am going to war against the Snakes in the Spring,"
said Kagohami.
"No," said Lewis, "that will displease the President.
He wants you to live at peace."
"Suffer me to go to war against the Sioux," begged
another chief.
"No," answered Lewis. "These wars are the cause
of all your troubles. If you do not stop it the Great
Father will withdraw his protection from you. He will
come over here and make you stop it."
"Look on the many nations whom war has destroyed,"
continued Lewis. "Think of your poverty and
misfortunes. If you wish to be happy, cultivate peace
and friendship. Then you will have horses. Then you
will grow strong."
"Have you spoken thus to all the tribes?" inquired
Kagohami.
"We have."
"And did they open their ears?"
"They did."
"I have horses enough," reflected Kagohami, "I will
not go to war. I will advise my nation to remain at home
until we see whether the Snake Indians desire peace."
One night the hunters came in with the report, "A troop
of whooping Sioux have captured our horses and taken
our knives."
It was midnight, but Lewis immediately routed up the
men and set out with twenty volunteers on the track of
the marauding Sioux. In vain. The boasting freebooters
had escaped with the horses beyond recovery.
"We are sorry we did not kill the white men," was the
word sent back by an Arikara. "They are bad medicine.
We shall scalp the whole camp in the Spring."
The movements of Lewis and Clark were watched
by the Northwest Company, who already had
planned a house at the Mandans. Jefferson was
not an hour too soon.
"Yes," said Larocque, "I will pass the winter there
and watch those Americans."
In the midst of the frightful cold, twenty-two degrees
below zero, on December 16, 1804, Larocque and Mackenzie
came over again from Fort Assiniboine and with
them came Alexander Henry.
"Strangers are among us," said the Indians, "Big
Knives from below. Had they been kind they would
have loaded their Great Boat with goods. As it is they
prefer throwing away their ammunition to sparing a
shot to the poor Mandans. There are only two sensible
men among them, the worker of iron and the mender of
guns."
"Amazing long pickets," remarked Larocque, as they
came in sight of the new stockade of Fort Mandan.
The triangular fort, two sides formed of houses and
the front of pickets, presented a formidable appearance
in the wild.
"Cannon-ball proof," remarked Larocque, taking a
good squint at the high round bastion in the corner between
the houses, defending two sides of the fort. On
the top was a sentry all night, and below a sentry walked
all day within the fort.
"Well guarded against surprise," remarked Alexander
Henry, as he tapped at the gate with the ramrod of his
gun.
As the party knocked at the gates of Fort Mandan, in
their winter coats of leather lined with flannel, edged
with fur, and double-breasted, the lively eye of Patrick
Gass peeped out.
"Some more av thim Britishers to ascertain our motives
fur visitin' this countery, and to gain infurmation
with rispict to th' change o' gov'm't," was the shrewd
guess of Pat.
The hospitable Captains were more than glad to entertain
visitors. They were there to cultivate international
amity.
In their hearts Lewis and Clark never dreamed what
a commotion that friendly letter to Chaboillez had stirred
up. It had gone far and awakened many. Immediately
upon its receipt Chaboillez sent out a runner.
"Lewis and Clark with one hundred and eighty soldiers
have arrived at the Mandan village," so the story
flew. "On their arrival they hoisted the American flag
and informed the natives that their object was not to
trade, but merely to explore the country; and that as
soon as navigation shall open they design to continue
their route across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific.
They have made the natives a few small presents and
repaired their guns and axes free. They have behaved
honourably toward my people, who are there to trade
with the natives."
Such a message as this was enough to bring Alexander
Henry down to investigate. The cottonwood fires
at Fort Mandan roared up the chimneys with unwonted
splendour that winter night. The thermometer
suddenly fell to forty-five degrees below zero; but warm
and comfortable beside the blaze they talked, American
and British, in this border of the nations.
Charles Mackenzie had been a clerk of the Northwest
Company for a year. Of the same rank as himself was
Larocque, and both were popular with the redmen. In
fact, Mackenzie, a Scot from the Highlands, was already
married to an Indian girl, and Larocque was a Frenchman.
That was enough. No nation fraternized with
the redmen as the Frenchmen did.
Alexander Henry, fur trader among the American Indians
and one of the famous Northwesters, bore a great
name in the north. There were two Alexander Henrys;
the younger was a nephew of the other, and he it was
that had now come to visit Lewis and Clark. He knew
more of the country than, perhaps, any other man in the
northwest. In fact, his uncle, the elder Henry, was at
Michilimackinac in the days of Pontiac, and had penetrated
to the Saskatchewan before ever there was a Northwest
Company.
Henry, Jr., wintered on the Red River the very year
that Alexander Mackenzie crossed the continent,—1793.
As a bourgeois of the Northwesters, with a fleet of
canoes and twenty-one men he had led the Red River
brigade of 1800 up into the Winnipeg country.
The scarlet belts, breeches of smoked buckskin, and
blue cloth leggings of Alexander Henry's old coureur
des bois were known for hundreds of miles.
Yes, he knew the Sioux. Their pillaging bands
sometimes plundered his traders. "They are not to be
trusted," he declared in positive tone.
"A very sensible, intelligent man," said Lewis and
Clark to themselves as the great Northwester talked of
the country and the tribes.
But time seemed pressing. Questions of cold or of
comfort weighed not with these dauntless Northwesters
when the interests of their company were at stake. They
had come on horseback. To return that way was out of
the question; and so sleds were fitted up with Jussaume's
Eskimo dogs, the "Huskies" of the fur traders.
"They seem happy to see us," remarked Mackenzie
from under his muffler, as they rode away. "They treat
us with civility and kindness, but Captain Lewis cannot
make himself agreeable. He speaks fluently, even
learnedly, but to me his inveterate prejudice against the
British stains all his eloquence."
"Captain Clark is more cordial," rejoined Larocque.
"He seems to dislike giving offence unnecessarily. Do
you recall his thoughtfulness in sending for our horses
when we feared they might be stolen? He let his men
guard them with his own."
With the thermometer thirty-two degrees below zero,
the dogsleds flew swift across the snow, bearing news
not alone to Assiniboine, but to Fort William on the
northern shore of Lake Superior where the Northwesters
had built their trading centre.
Fort William, built in 1803 and named in honour of
William McGillivray, was the great distributing point,
where "the lords of the lakes and the forests" came to
hold their rendezvous. In front rolled Superior, the
great Canadian Sea. Schooners, laden with merchandise,
peltries, and provisions, plied between Fort William
and Sault Ste. Marie.
One of the honoured names of the Northwest Company
was Philip de Rocheblave. Captured by George
Rogers Clark at Kaskaskia, sent to Virginia and there
let out on parole, he broke faith and fled to New York,
to turn up at Montreal in the winter of 1783-4 along
with McTavish, McGillivray, the Frobishers and Frasers,
founders of the Northwest Fur Company. Pierre de
Rocheblave had now succeeded to his uncle's honours.
Would he be apt to let the United States get ahead of
him? And by means of a Clark at that?
"I must go down to the American fort to get my
compass put in order," said Larocque again, in January.
"The glass is broken and the needle does not point due
north."
He found Captain Clark sketching charts of the country,
Lewis making vocabularies; Jussaume and Charboneau,
the Frenchmen, interpreting and disputing on
the meaning of words.
"They write down our words," whispered the suspicious
Indians. "What wicked design have they on our
country?"
Captain Lewis spent a whole day fixing Larocque's
compass.
"I hardly get a skin when the Hudson's Bay trader
is with me," said Larocque. "He is known by all the Indians,
and understands and talks their language. I must
get Charboneau." And the two went away together.
"Of what use are beaver?" inquired the Indians.
"Do you make gunpowder of them? Do they preserve
you from sickness? Do they serve you beyond the
grave?"
Alexander Henry went to Fort William.
"A new rival has arisen," said the Northwest traders
at their hurried conference. "We must anticipate these
United States explorers and traders. They may advance
northward and establish a claim to ownership by prior
right of discovery or occupation. We must build a chain
of posts and hold the country."
"But whom can we send on such a monumental
enterprise?"
There seemed but one man,—Simon Fraser.
Simon Fraser was the son of a Scottish Tory who
had been captured by the Americans at Burgoyne's surrender
and had died in prison. His wife, with Simon a
babe in arms, removed to Canada, to rear her son beneath
the banner of her King. At sixteen, young Fraser
became a clerk of the Northwest Company and a bourgeois.
But the Frasers were great-brained people;
young Simon was soon promoted; and now at the age
of twenty-nine he was put in charge of the greatest
enterprise since the incomparable feat of Alexander
Mackenzie.
"You, Simon Fraser, are to establish trading-posts in
the unknown territory, and in this way take possession
for Great Britain."
Over at Sault Ste. Marie a young doctor by the name
of John McLoughlin would gladly have accompanied his
uncle Simon on that perilous undertaking. But his day
was to come later. Both of their names are now linked
with the Old Oregon.
Young men of the two most progressive modern nations
were to be pitted in this race for Empire,—Lewis
and Clark, and Simon Fraser.
On the first day of March preparations began on
the building of new boats. The old ones were
pried out of the ice, and the whole party was busy
making elk-skin ropes and pirogues, in burning coal, and
in making battle-axes to trade for corn. Ducks began to
pass up the river; swans and wild geese were flying north.
Old Chief Le Borgne of the Minnetarees, a giant in
stature, a brute at heart, had held aloof all winter in his
tepee.
"Foolish people! Stay at home!" he cried.
But strange rumours crept within the walls of the sulky
Cyclops. Overcome at last by curiosity Le Borgne came
down to the fort.
"Some foolish young men of my nation tell me there
is a man among you who is black. Is that true?"
"It is," answered Clark. "York, come here."
With his one fierce eye, Le Borgne examined York
closely. He wet his finger and rubbed the skin to see
if the black would come off. Not until the negro uncovered
his head and showed his woolly hair could the
chief be persuaded that York was not a painted white
man.
Convinced against his will, and amazed, Le Borgne
arose with a snort, his black hair flying over his brawny
shoulders, and stalked out. As he passed along, the
Indians shrank back. Over the hill came the wail of a
demented mother. Many a fair Indian girl had left her
scalp at the door of this Indian Blue-Beard because she
preferred some other lover.
The ice was already honeycombed. Larocque came
over for a farewell.
"McTavish is dead," he said.
Lewis and Clark scarcely comprehended the full import
of that announcement.
At the foot of the mountain in Montreal the great
Northwester was building a palace, fit abode for "the
lord of the lakes and the forest," when the summons came
in 1804. Up the rivers and lakes the word was carried
into the uttermost wilds,—"McTavish is dead." Thus
it came to Lewis and Clark, this last news from the outer
world.
The meeting at Fort William had been held without
him,—McTavish was dead.
He was the head and front of the Northwest Company.
Under the King, Simon McTavish ruled Canada, ruled
half of British America, making Hudson's Bay tremble
on her northern sea.
The quick wit of the American born of Irish parents
belonged to Patrick Gass. While others were struggling
toward an idea, Pat had already seized it. Brave,
observant, of good sense, and hating the British, he kept
an eye on Larocque.
"Do not trust that Frinchman."
Larocque had a stock of goods to trade. He lingered
around Fort Mandan, and offered to go over the mountains
with Lewis and Clark, but they politely declined.
Already Larocque knew of the order at Fort William.
His own brother-in-law, Quesnel, was to be the companion
of Fraser's voyage, and was to leave, like Fraser,
his name on the rivers of British Columbia.
Then there was trouble with Charboneau. He became
independent and impudent and demanded higher wages.
Somebody was tampering with Charboneau. Suddenly
flaming with new raiment, gay vests, and yards of blue
and scarlet cloth, he announced:
"I weel not work. I weel not stand guard. I eenterpreteur,—do
as I pleese, return wheen I pleese."
"We can dispense with your services," coolly answered
the Captains. Charboneau stepped back, surprised.
Ignoring his presence, preparations were hurried on.
The boats, the troublesome, cracking, warping cottonwood
boats, were hauled to the fort and pitched and
calked and tinned, until at last they were ready to try the
water. No one spoke to the Frenchman, no one noticed
him as he lingered expectantly by.
All the Indian goods were brought out and hung in
the open air. Even at the busiest moments, with every
man on the jump, no one asked Charboneau to help.
Finding he was about to lose his position, the Frenchman
came to Captain Lewis, apologised, and was restored to
service. In a trice Charboneau was back at the skillets,
dishing up the dinner.
The occupants of Fort Mandan had been snow-bound
five months when ice began running in the river. All
day long now the busy Indians were catching buffalo
floating by on the high water. The foolish animals, trying
to cross the thin ice, broke through. Others floated
away on big cakes that were certain, sooner or later, to
launch them into eternity.
The patient, devoted women, too, were in evidence.
Slipping out of their leather smocks, they plunged naked
into the icy current to secure the floating driftwood for
fuel. Across the snow long lines of squaws came dragging
home the drift.
The hammers of Shields and Bratton rang merrily at
the anvils. Boxes were made and hooped and ironed, to
go down in the big bateau that was too unwieldy to carry
further.
In those stout boxes were horns of the mountain ram,
unknown as yet to science, horns of elk and deer, rare
skins, robes and Indian dresses; bow, arrows, and a
shield for the President, on which Old Black Cat had spent
months of patient carving; samples of the red Arikara
corn; sixty-seven specimens of earths, salts, and minerals,
and sixty specimens of plants, all carefully labelled;
seeds, insects, the skeleton of the big fish from the hilltop,
stuffed antelopes and Lewis's pelican, a live prairie
dog in a wicker cage, a live prairie hen and four magpies.
A new geography was there, a map of the Missouri extending
out to the mystic mountains, drawn from Indian
description, to be presented by Jefferson to Congress.
In these boxes, too, went letters. There was one
of several thousand words from Lewis to his mother.
Captain Clark's first and best letter was to his brother
at the Point of Rock; with it he enclosed a map and
sketches of Indians. Another was to Major Croghan at
Locust Grove, with seeds of several kinds of grapes for
his sister Lucy.
With the bateau went also the famous Mandan report
of Lewis to Jefferson, and Clark's letter to his soldier
friend, William Henry Harrison, then Governor of the
Indian Territory at Vincennes. Other missives went to
Ohio, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Pennsylvania,—wherever
a man had a mother at the hearthstone
waiting to hear of her distant boy. Saddest of all
was the news to Mill Creek, the home of Sergeant Floyd.
Part of Clark's journal was transmitted by letter to the
President and part was enclosed in a separate tin box,
"to multiply the chances of saving something."
The Mandan treasures, with dispatches and presents
from the Indians, went down by water to the Gulf and
thence by sea to Washington.
"I have little doubt but they will be fired on by the
Sioux," says Lewis in his letter, "but they have pledged
themselves to us that they will not yield while there is
one of them living."
At five o'clock on Sunday afternoon, April 7, 1805, the
barge left Fort Mandan for St. Louis with ten men. With
it went also Brave Raven of the Arikaras, to visit his
Great Father, the President.
At the same moment that the barge left the fort, six
small canoes and the two pirogues shot up river, carrying
thirty-one men and Sacajawea with her child.
"This little fleet, although not quite so respectable as
those of Columbus or Captain Cook, is still viewed by us
with as much pleasure as those famed adventurers ever
beheld theirs," said Lewis, "and I dare say with quite
as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. We
are now about to penetrate a country at least two thousand
miles in width, on which the foot of civilised man has
never trodden.
"Entertaining as I do the most confident hope of succeeding
in a voyage which has formed a darling project
of mine for ten years, I can but esteem this moment of
our departure as among the happiest of my life."
The Spring days were squally and chill. The air
was sharp, and the water froze on the oars as the
little party rowed along. Now and then a flurry
of snow whitened the April green. Sometimes the sails
were spread, and the boats scurried before the wind.
Often, however, the sails proved too large, and over the
boats lurched, wetting the baggage and powder.
Most of the powder had been sealed in leaden canisters.
When the powder was emptied the canister itself
was melted into bullets. That was a nightly task,—the
moulding of bullets.
"Hio! hio!" The hunters ahead picked a camping
spot, beside a spring or by a clump of trees. In short
order brass kettles were swung across the gipsy poles.
Twisting a bunch of buffalo grass into a nest, in a
moment Dr. Saugrain's magical matches had kindled a
roaring flame.
Swinging axes made music where axes had never
swung before. Baby Touissant rolled his big eyes and
kicked and crowed in his mother's lap, while Charboneau,
head cook, stuffed his trapper's sausage with strips of
tenderloin and hung it in links around the blaze.
Stacks of buffalo meat lay near by, where they had
been piled by the industrious hunters. Odours of boiling
meat issued from the kettles. Juicy brown ribs
snapped and crackled over the flames.
Captain Lewis, accustomed to the cuisine of Jefferson
at the White House, laughed.
"How did you dress this sausage so quick, Charboneau?
Two bobs and a flirt in the dirty Missouri?"
Sometimes Lewis himself turned cook, and made a
suet dumpling for every man. More frequently he was
off to the hills with Clark, taking a look at the country.
Nor was Sacajawea idle. With her baby on her back,
she opened the nests of prairie mice, and brought home
artichokes. Sometimes she brought sprouts of wild onion
for the broth, or the pomme blanche,—the peppery Indian
turnip. York, too, at his master's direction often
gathered cresses and greens for the dinner. But York
was becoming a hunter. As well as the best, he "slew
dem buffaloes."
Lewis had bought Charboneau's big family tent. Under
its leather shelter slept the Captains, with Drouillard and
Charboneau and his little family.
Around the twilight fires the men wrote their journals,—Lewis,
Clark, Pryor, Ordway, Gass, Fraser, all busy
with their stub quill pens and inkhorns, recording the
day's adventure.
They were not scholars, any of them, but men of
action, pioneers and explorers, heralds of the nation. In
their strenuous boyhood they had defended the frontier.
Men at sixteen, they took up a man's employment.
Lewis, more favoured, prolonged his schooldays until
the age of eighteen, then broke away to march with
armies.
At last these first civilised sounds that ever broke the
silence primeval were hushed. Rolled up like cocoons
in their mackinaw blankets, the men were soon snoring
in rows with feet to the fires, while a solitary sergeant
peered into the lonely night. The high Dakota wind
roared among the cottonwoods. Mother Nature, too,
kept guard, lighting her distant beacons in the blue above
the soldier boys.
In a land of wolves, no wolves molested, though they
yelped and barked in the prairie grass. On all sides lay
deserted camps of Assiniboine Sioux. Once the expedition
crossed the trail of a war party only twenty-four
hours old. A dog left behind came to the camp of the
explorers and became the pet of Captain Lewis.
"Kip so quiet lak' one leetle mouse," whispered Cruzatte,
cautioning silence.
No one cared to meet the Assiniboine Sioux, the
"Gens des Grands Diables." Once the smoke of their
campfires clouded the north; but the boats sped on
undiscovered.
"The river reminds me of the Ohio at this time of
year," said Clark.
"The drumming of that sharp-tailed grouse is like
that of the pheasants of old Virginia," responded Lewis.
"And the croaking of the frogs exactly resimbles that
of frogs in th' Yaunited States," added Patrick Gass.
For days they noted veins of coal burning along the
river banks, kindled perhaps by Indian fires. Alkali dust
began to rise, blown into clouds, and sifting into their
tight double-cased watches until the wheels refused to
move more than a few minutes at a time.
Toward the last of April Lewis went ahead to the
mouth of the Rochejaune, the Yellow Rock, or Yellowstone
River, passing through herds of elk, antelope, and
buffalo, so tame they would scarce move out of his way.
Beautiful dun deer snorted and pawed the leaves, then
half trusting, half timorous, slipped into the thicket. No
one but Sacajawea had ever before been over this road.
In May they reached the land where even the beaver
were gentle, for they had never been hunted. No white
man, so far as they knew, had ever trodden these wilds.
They had not heard of the gallant Sieur Verendrye, two
of whose intrepid sons reached the "Shining Mountains"
on New Year's Day, 1743. Washington was a boy then;
George Rogers Clark was not born.
But the Snakes and the Sioux were at war, fierce battles
were raging, and they were forced to turn back.
The noble Verendrye spent all his fortune, and forty thousand
livres besides, in trying to find the River of the West.
Then Jonathan Carver of Connecticut set out about
the time Boone went to Kentucky. At the Falls of St.
Anthony, he, too, heard of the Shining Mountains.
"The four most capital rivers of North America take
their rise about the centre of this continent," said Carver.
"The River Bourbon, which empties into Hudson's Bay;
the Waters of St. Lawrence; the Mississippi; and the
River Oregon, or the River of the West, that falls into
the Pacific Ocean at the Straits of Anian."
What little bird whispered "Oregon" in Carver's
ear? No such word is known in any Indian tongue.
Had some Spanish sailor told of a shore "like his own
green Arragon"?
And now Lewis and Clark are on the sunset path.
Will they find the Shining Mountains and the River of
the West?
At the first large branch beyond the Yellowstone, Captain
Lewis went on shore with Drouillard the hunter.
Out of a copse suddenly appeared two grizzlies.
Lewis remembered well the awe and absolute terror
with which the Mandans had described this king of
Western beasts. Never did they go out to meet him
without war-paint and all the solemn rites of battle. As
with the cave bear of ancient song and saga, no weapon
of theirs was adequate to meet this dreaded monster. In
parties of six or eight they went, with bows and arrows,
or, in recent years, the bad guns of the trader.
With these things in mind, Lewis and the hunter faced
the bears. Each fired, and each wounded his beast. One
of the bears ran away; the other turned and pursued
Captain Lewis, but a lucky third shot from Drouillard
laid him low.
And what a brute was he! Only a cub and yet larger
than any bear of the Atlantic States, the grizzly, known
now to be identical with the awful cave bear of prehistoric
time. No wonder the Indian that slew him was a
brave and in the line of chieftainship! No wonder the
claws became a badge of honour! No man, no foe so
fierce to meet as one enraged and famished grizzly. His
skin was a king's robe, his tusk an emblem of unflinching
valour.
A wind from the east now filled the sails and blew
them west! west! More and more tame grew the elk and
buffalo, until the men were obliged to drive them out of
their way with sticks and stones.
Before them unrolled the great wild garden of
Eden. Abounding everywhere were meadows,—beaver
meadows and clover meadows, wild rice and rye and
timothy, and buffalo grazing on a thousand hills. Prairie
fowl scurried in the under-brush, beautiful white geese
gazed calmly at them, ducks quacked around ponds and
streams alive with trout.
Wild gardens were radiant with roses and honeysuckles,
morning-glories and wild hops. Whole fields
of lilies perfumed the sunrise, strawberries carpeted the
uplands, and tangles of blackberries and raspberries interwove
a verdant wall along the buffalo trails, the highways
of the wilderness.
Mountain sheep sported on the cliffs, the wild cat
purred in her forest lair. The yellow cougar, the mountain
lion, growled and slunk away. The coyote, the Indian
dog, snapped and snarled. But man, man was not
there. For four months no Indian appeared through
all the Great Lone Land of the Tay-a-be-shock-up, the
country of the mountains.
William Bratton, who had been walking along the
shore, presently came running to the boats with cries
of terror.
"Take me on board, quick!"
It was some moments before Bratton could speak.
"A bear! a bear!" he gasped at last.
A mile and a half back Bratton had wounded a grizzly
that turned and chased him. Captain Lewis and seven
men immediately started. For a mile they tracked the
trail of blood to a hole where the enraged animal was
frantically tearing up the earth with teeth and claws.
Two shots through the skull finished the grizzly, whose
fleece and skin made a load which two men could scarcely
carry back to camp.
"More bear-butter to fry me sassage," remarked unsentimental
Charboneau.
But now had begun in earnest the days of wild adventure.
One evening after another grizzly battle, the men
came triumphantly into camp to find disaster there.
Charboneau had been steersman that night, and Cruzatte
was at the bow. A sudden squall struck the foremost
pirogue, Charboneau let go the tiller, the wind bellied
the sail, and over they turned.
"De rudder! de rudder!" shouted Cruzatte.
Charboneau, the most timid waterman in the party,
clinging to the gunwales, heard only his own voice in
the wind, crying aloud to heaven, "Mon Dieu! Mon
Dieu!"
"De rudder!" roared Cruzatte. "Seize de rudder instanter
and do de duty, or I shoot you!"
Fear of Cruzatte's gun overcame fear of drowning.
Charboneau, pallid and trembling, reached for the flying
rope. Half a minute the boat lay on the wave, then
turned up full of water.
At last, holding the brace of the square sail, Charboneau
pulled the boat round, while all hands fell to bailing
out the water. But all the papers, medicine, and
instruments were wet.
Cruzatte alone was calm, and Sacajawea, who, with
her baby and herself to save, still managed to catch and
preserve most of the light articles that were floating
overboard.
Captain Lewis, watching the disaster from afar, had
almost leaped into the water to save his precious papers,
but was restrained by the reflection that by such rashness
he might forfeit his life.
Two days were lost in unpacking and drying the stores.
At midnight a buffalo ran into the sleeping camp.
"Hey! hey! hey!" shouted the guard, firing on the
run and waving his arms. But the distracted beast,
plunging close to the heads of the sleeping men, headed
directly toward the leather tent.
Suddenly up before his nose danced the little Indian
dog, and the buffalo was turned back into the night just
as the whole camp jumped to arms in expectation of an
attack of the Sioux.
"Fire! Fire!" was the next alarm.
In the high wind of the night one of the fires had
communicated itself to a dead cottonwood overhanging
the camp. Fanned by the gale the flames shot up
the trunk, and burning limbs and twigs flew in a shower
upon the leather tent.
"Fire! fire! fire!" again came the quick, sharp cry.
Every man rolled out of his mackinaw. The occupants
of the lodge were soon aroused. Strong hands
had scarcely removed the lodge and quenched the burning
leather before the tree itself fell directly over the
spot where a moment before the Captains were sleeping
soundly.
And so that stream was named the Burnt Lodge Creek.
Ascending the highest summit of the hills on the
north side of the river, on Sunday, the 26th of
May, Captain Lewis first caught a distant view of
"the Rock mountains—the object of all our hopes, and
the reward of all our ambition."
"When I viewed—I felt a secret pleasure,—but
when I reflected on the difficulties which this snowy
barrier would most probably throw in my way to the
Pacific, and the sufferings and hardships of myself and
party in them, it in some measure counterbalanced the
joy."
Bold and bolder grew the river shores. The current
now became too rapid for oars, too deep for poles. Nothing
but the tow-line could draw the boats against the swift
flow of the mountain torrent. Struggling along shore
with the rope on their shoulders, the men lost their moccasins
in the clinging clay and went barefoot. Sometimes
knee-deep, they waded, sometimes waist-deep, shoulders-deep,
in the icy water, or rising on higher benches walked
on flinty rocks that cut their naked feet.
Leaping out of the mountains, came down a laughing
sparkling river, the clearest they had yet seen. Its valley
seemed a paradise of ash and willow, honeysuckles and
wild roses. Standing on its bank Clark mused, "I know
but one other spot so beautiful. I will name this river
for my little mountain maid of Fincastle, the Judith."
Could he then foresee that Judith would become his
wife, or that the verdant Judith Basin would be the last
retreat of the buffalo?
Big horned mountain sheep were sporting on the cliffs,
beaver built their dams along its shores, and up the Judith
Gap the buffalo had his mountain home. The Indian, too,
had left there the scattered embers of a hundred fires.
Lewis picked up a moccasin.
"Here, Sacajawea, does this belong to your people?"
The Bird Woman shook her head. "No Shoshone."
She pointed to the north where the terrible Blackfeet
came swooping down to shoot and scalp. It was time to
hasten on.
Valley succeeded valley for miles on miles, and between
valleys arose hills of sandstone, worn by suns and storms
into temples of desolated magnificence; ruins of columns
and towers, pedestals and capitals, parapets of statuary,
sculptured alcoves and mysterious galleries. Sheer up
from the river's side they lifted their heads like old Venetian
palaces abandoned to the bats.
June 3 the river forked.
"Which is the true Missouri?"
"De nort'ern branch. See it boil and roll?" said
Cruzatte. "See de colour? Dat de true Meessouri. De
ot'er ees but one leetle stream from de mountain."
But the Captains remembered the advice of the
Minnetarees.
"The Ah-mateah-za becomes clear, and has a navigable
current into the mountains."
Parties were sent up both branches to reconnoitre.
Lewis and Clark ascended the high ground in the fork
and looked toward the sunset. Innumerable herds of
buffalo, elk, and antelope were browsing as far as the eye
could reach, until the rivers were lost in the plain.
Back came the canoes undecided. Then the Captains
set out. Clark took the crystal pebbly southern route.
Lewis went up the turbid northern branch fifty-nine
miles.
"This leads too far north, almost to the Saskatchewan,"
he concluded, and turned back. In the summer
sunshine robins sang, turtle doves, linnets, the brown
thrush, the goldfinch, and the wren, filled the air with
melody.
"I will call it Maria's River, for my beautiful and amiable
cousin, Maria Wood of Charlottesville," thought
Lewis, with a memory of other Junes in old Virginia.
When Lewis drew up at camp, Clark was already there,
anxious for his safety. The main party, occupied in
dressing skins and resting their lame and swollen feet,
looked eagerly for the decision. To their surprise both
Captains agreed on the southern route.
"But Cruzatte," exclaimed the men, "he thinks the
north stream is the true river, and Cruzatte is an experienced
waterman. We may be lost in the mountains
far from the Columbia."
"True. Everything depends on a right decision. Captain
Clark, if you will stay here and direct the deposit
of whatever we can spare, I will go ahead until I know
absolutely."
At dawn Lewis set out with Drouillard, Gibson, Goodrich,
and Joe Fields.
Under Captain Clark's direction, Bratton, the blacksmith,
set up his forge at the mouth of Maria's River and
Shields mended all the broken guns. The rest dug a
cache, a kettle-shaped cellar, on a dry spot safe from
water. The floor was covered with dry sticks and a robe.
Then in went the blacksmith's heavy tools, canisters of
powder, bags of flour and baggage,—whatever could be
spared. On top was thrown another robe, and then the
earth packed in tight and the sod refitted so that no eye
could detect the spot.
The red pirogue was drawn up into the middle of a
small island at the mouth of Maria's River and secured
in a copse.
"Boys, I am very ill," said Captain Lewis, when they
camped for dinner on the first day out. Attacked with
violent pains and a high fever, unable to proceed, he lay
under some willow boughs.
No medicine had been brought. Drouillard was much
concerned. "I well remember," he said, "when a flux
was epidemic at Chillicothe among de white settlers, my
fader, Pierre Drouillard, administer on de sick wit' great
success."
"What did he use?"
"A tea of de choke-cherry."
"Prepare me some," said the rapidly sinking Captain.
With deft fingers Drouillard stripped off the leaves of
a choke-cherry bough, and cut up the twigs. Black and
bitter, the tea was brought to Lewis at sunset. He drank
a pint, and another pint an hour afterward. By ten
o'clock the pain was gone, a gentle perspiration ensued,
the fever abated, and by morning he was able to
proceed.
The next day, June 12, the mountains loomed as never
before, rising range on range until the distant peaks commingled
with the clouds. Twenty-four hours later Lewis
heard the roaring of a cataract, seven miles away, and
saw its spray, a column of cloud lifted by the southwest
wind. Like Hiawatha he had—
"Journeyed westward, westward,
Left the fleetest deer behind him,
Left the antelope and bison,
Passed the mountains of the Prairie,
Passed the land of Crows and Foxes,
Passed the dwellings of the Blackfeet,
Came unto the Rocky Mountains,
To the kingdom of the West-Wind."
Hastening on with impatient step he came upon the
stupendous waterfall, one of the glories of our continent,
that hidden here in the wilderness had for ages leaped
adown the rocky way. Overwhelmed with the spectacle
Lewis sat down "to gaze and wonder and adore." "Oh,
for the pencil of Salvator Rosa or the pen of Thompson,
that I might give to the world some idea of this magnificent
object, which from the commencement of time has
been concealed from the view of civilised man."
Joe Fields was immediately dispatched to notify Clark
of the discovery of the Falls. Lewis and the other men
went on up ten miles, gazing at cataract after cataract
where the mighty Missouri bent and paused, and gathering
its full volume leaped from rock to rock, sometimes
wild and irregularly sublime, again smooth and elegant
as a painter's dream.
Lewis, impatient to see and know, hurried on past the
rest until night overtook him alone near the head of the
series of cataracts. On the high plain along the bank a
thousand buffalo were feeding on the short curly grass.
Lewis shot one for supper, and leaning upon his unloaded
rifle watched to see it fall.
A slight rustle attracted his attention. He turned. A
bear was stealing upon him, not twenty steps away.
There was no time for reloading, flight alone remained.
Not a bush, not a tree, not a rock was near, nothing but
the water. With a wild bound Lewis cleared the intervening
space and leaped into the river. Turning, he
presented his espontoon. The bear, already at the bank,
was about to spring, but that defiant espontoon in his face
filled him with terror. He turned and ran, looking back
now and then as if fearing pursuit, and disappeared.
Clambering out of the water, Lewis started for camp,
when, sixty paces in front of him, a strange animal
crouched as if to spring. Lewis fired and a mountain lion
fled. Within three hundred yards of the spot, three enraged
buffalo bulls left the herd, and shaking their shaggy
manes, ran pawing and bellowing, full speed upon him.
Eluding the bulls, Lewis hurried to camp. Worn out,
he fell asleep, only to awaken and find a huge rattlesnake
coiled around the tree above his head! Such was earth
primeval!
The Great Falls of the Missouri was the rendezvous
for all wild life in the country. Thousands of impatient
buffaloes pushed each other along the steep rocky paths
to the water. Hundreds went over the cataract to feed
the bears and wolves below.
Captain Clark soon arrived with the main body and
went into camp at a sulphur spring, a favourite resort of
buffaloes.
"This is precisely like Bowyer's sulphur spring of
Virginia,—it will be good for Sacajawea," said Lewis,
bringing her a cup of the transparent water that tumbled
in a cascade into the Missouri.
Sacajawea was sick, very sick, delirious at times as she
lay on her couch of skins. The journey had been difficult.
The hungry little baby was a great burden, and
Sacajawea was only sixteen, younger even than Shannon,
the boy of the party.
Clark directed his negro servant, York, to be her constant
attendant. Charboneau was cautioned on no account
to leave her. Several other semi-invalids guarded
the tent to keep the buffaloes away. Every day, and twice
a day, the Captains came to see her and prescribe as best
they could.
Now came the tedious days of portaging the boats and
baggage around the Falls. A cottonwood tree, nearly
two feet in diameter, was sawed into wheels. The white
pirogue was hidden in a copse and its mast was taken for
an axletree.
Opposite the spot where the waggons were made was
an island full of bears of enormous size. Their growling
and stealthy movements went on day and night. All
night the watchful little dog kept up incessant barking.
The men, disturbed in their slumbers, lay half-awake
with their arms in hand, while the guard patrolled with
an eye on the island. Bolder and bolder grew the bears.
One night they came to the very edge of the camp and ran
off with the meat hung out for breakfast.
At last the rude waggons were done. The canoes were
mounted and filled with baggage. Slowly they creaked
away, tugged and pushed and pulled up hills that were
rocky and rough with hummocks where the buffaloes
trod. Prickly-pears, like little scythes, cut and lacerated,
even through double-soled moccasins. At every halt,
over-wearied and worn out by night watching, the toilers
dropped to the ground and fell asleep instantly.
A whole month was spent in making the carriages and
transporting the baggage the eighteen miles around the
Falls. In another cache at the sulphur spring, they
buried Lewis's writing desk, specimens of plants and minerals,
provisions, the grindstone brought from Harper's
Ferry, books and a map of the Missouri River. The
blunderbuss was hid under rocks at the foot of the Falls.
Sacajawea, recovered from her illness, began to look
for familiar landmarks. One day Clark took her, together
with Charboneau and York, to look at the Falls.
He had surveyed and measured the Black Eagle, Crooked
Rainbow, and Great Falls. "Come," he said, "Charboneau,
bring Sacajawea. Let us go up and look at
the Black Eagle." High above the cataract the bird
had built its nest in the top of a cottonwood tree.
A dark cloud was rising. Under a shelving rock they
took refuge in a ravine, Captain Clark still figuring at
his notes.
A few drops of rain fell,—in an instant a torrent, a
cloud-burst, rolled down the ravine.
Clark saw it coming. Snatching his gun and shot-pouch,
he pushed Sacajawea and the baby up the cliff,
while Charboneau above was pulling her by the hand.
Up to Clark's waist the water came. Fifteen feet it rose
behind him as he climbed to safety.
Compass and umbrella were lost in the scramble.
Charboneau had left his gun, tomahawk, and shot-pouch.
Sacajawea had just snatched her baby before its cradle
went into the flood. After the storm they came down
into the plain, to find York in affright lest they had been
swept into the river.
On account of the great heat, the men at the waggons
had laid aside their leather hunting shirts, when down
upon their bare backs came a shower of huge hailstones.
Bruised, battered, and bleeding as from a battle,
they straggled into camp. Kind-hearted Lewis set to
work with linens and medicine, bandaging up their
wounds.
The next morning Captain Clark sent two men to look
for the articles lost at the Falls. They found the ravine
filled with rock, but happily, half-hid in mud and sand,
the precious compass was recovered.
Within view of the camp that day Clark estimated not
less than ten thousand buffalo. And beyond, rimmed
on the far horizon, ran the white line of the mountain
crest that is to-day the western boundary of Montana.
The 4th of July dawned, the second since they had
left the States. In the hills they heard strange booming,
as of a distant cannonade. It almost seemed as if the
Rocky Mountains were reverberating back the joyous
guns of Baltimore and Boston. The men listened in
amaze.
"What can it be?"
"Een de mountain," answered Cruzatte. "De vein
of silver burst. De Pawnee and de Rickara hear eet een
de Black Hill."
"Ah, yes, the Minnetarees talked of a noise in the
mountains. We thought it was superstition."
Again through long silence came the great cannonade.
Unconsciously Lewis and Clark trod on closed treasure
houses, future mines of unwashed tons of gold and silver.
Had they brought back gold then what might have been
the effect upon the restless, heaving East? But, no, the
land must wait and grow. Other wars must be fought
with the Englishman and the Indian, armies of trappers
must decimate the bears and wolves, and easier methods
of transportation must aid in opening up the great
Montana-land.
Monday, July 15, 1805, the boats were launched
above the Great Falls of the Missouri. Clark
followed by land along an old Indian trail, worn
deep by the lodge-poles of ages.
Little did he realise that nuggets lay scattered all over
that land, where yet the gold hunters should dot the hills
with shafts and mounds; that near here a beautiful city,
named for Helen of Troy, should arise to become a
golden capital.
"My people! My people!" Sacajawea excitedly
pointed to deserted wickiups and traces of fires. She
read their story at a glance.
"It was winter. They were hungry. There were no
buffalo. See!" She pointed to the pines stripped of
bark and the tender inner wood, the last resort of famishing
Shoshones.
With flags hoisted to notify the Indians that they were
friends, the canoes passed within the Gates of the Mountains,
where the mighty Missouri breaks through the Belt
Range of western Montana. Nothing in Alleghany lands
compares with this tremendous water-gap. Through the
dark cavern the river ran narrow and rapid and clear.
Down through tributary canyons on either side came
rifts of light, odours of pine, and the roar of waterfalls.
With unmoved countenance Sacajawea looked upon
the weird overhanging grayish granite walls through
which she had been hurried in terror by her Minnetaree
captors, five years ago.
"We are coming to a country where the river has
three forks," said Sacajawea.
Exhilaration seized the men, as they sent the boats
up the heavy current that rolled well-deep below. That
night they camped in a canyon that is to-day a pleasure
resort for the people of Helena.
Again following the Indian trail, on the 25th of July
Clark arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, near the
present site of Gallatin. From the forks of the far eastern
rivers where Pittsburg rises, they had come to the forks
of the great river of the West.
For days the swift current had required the utmost
exertion. The men complained of fatigue and excessive
heat.
"You push a tolerable good pole," said the Kentuckians,
when Lewis took a hand.
Captain Clark was worn out. With the thermometer
at ninety, for days he had pushed ahead, determined to
find the Shoshones.
"Let us rest a day or two," said Captain Lewis.
"Here, boys, build a bower for Captain Clark. I'll
take a tramp myself in a few days to find these yellow
gentlemen if possible."
Camping at the three forks, every man became a
leather dresser and tailor, fixing up his buckskin clothes.
Leggings and moccasins had been sliced to pieces by the
prickly pear.
"What a spot for a trading post!" the Captains
agreed.
"Look," said Lewis, "see the rushes in the bottom,
high as a man's breast and thick as wheat. This will be
much in favour of an establishment here,—the cane is
one of the best winter pastures for cows and horses."
From the heights at the three forks, Lewis and Clark
looked out upon valleys of perennial green. Birds of
beautiful plumage and thrilling song appeared on every
hand. Beaver, otter, muskrat, sported in this trapper's
paradise. Buffalo-clover, sunflowers and wild rye, buffalo-peas
and buffalo-beans blossomed everywhere.
All the Indian trails in the country seemed to converge
at this point. Here passed the deadly Blackfoot on his
raids against the Shoshones, the Bannocks, and the Crows.
Here stole back and forth the timid Shoshone to his annual
hunt on the Yellowstone and the Snake River plains.
Hither from time immemorial had the Flatheads and
Nez Percés resorted for their supplies of robes and meat.
Even from the far Saskatchewan came the Piegans and
Gros Ventres to this favoured and disputed spot.
The Blackfeet claimed the three forks of the Missouri,
no tribe dwelt there permanently. The roads were deep,
like trenches, worn by the trailing lodgepoles of many
tribes upon this common hunting ground.
The naming of the rivers,—that was an epic by itself.
The gay Cabinet ladies who had fitted him out at Washington
flitted through the mind of Meriwether Lewis,—Maria
Jefferson, companion of his earliest recollection,
Dolly Madison, whose interest never failed in his adventures,
Mrs. Gallatin, the queenly dark-haired wife of the
scholarly Secretary of the Treasury. With what pleasure
had they gathered at the White House to fashion
"housewives," full of pins and needles and skeins of
thread, for these wanderers of the West. Not a man in
the party but bore some souvenir of their thoughtful
handiwork.
Clark's earliest memory was of Jefferson, the friend
of his father, of his older brothers, and then of himself.
"Jimmy" Madison and George Rogers Clark had
been schoolmates in the "old field school" of Donald
Robertson.
So then and there the Captains agreed that three great
statesmen and their wives should be commemorated here
by the Madison, the Jefferson, and the Gallatin forks of
the Missouri.
"On this very spot my people camped five years ago.
Here were their tents," said Sacajawea, pointing out the
embers of blackened fires. "The Minnetarees peered
over the hills. We ran up this fork and hid in the thick
woods."
The boats were reloaded and the party began to ascend
the Jefferson on July 30, to its head in the Bitter Root
Mountains. At noon they camped for dinner.
"And here was I captured!" cried Sacajawea. "I
was made a prisoner. We were too few to fight the
Minnetarees. They pursued us. Our men mounted
their horses and fled to the mountains. The women
and children hid. I ran. I was crossing this river.
They caught me and carried me away."
What a realistic glimpse of daily terror! Fighting,
hunting, wandering, famishing, in the land of anarchy.
Formerly the Shoshones were Indians of the plains.
Now they had been driven by their enemies into almost
inaccessible fastnesses.
"The Beaver Head! The Beaver Head!"
Sacajawea pointed to a steep, rocky cliff shaped like a
beaver's head, one hundred and fifty feet above the water,
an Indian landmark from time immemorial.
"This is not far from the summer retreat of my countrymen.
We shall meet them soon, on a river beyond the
mountains running to the west."
"We must meet those Indians," said Lewis, "it is
our only hope for horses to cross the mountains."
Lewis and Clark camped August 7, 1805, at Beaverhead
Rock. There, fifty-seven years later, chased by
bears, robbed by Indians, unsheltered, unshod, and almost
starving, the gold hunter stumbled upon the auriferous
bed of an ancient river that made Montana. Gold
was discovered at Alder Gulch in 1863, ten miles south
of Beaverhead Rock, and the next year mining began in
the streets of the present city of Helena. The pick and
the shovel in the miner's hand became the lamp and the
ring in the grasp of Aladdin.
The next morning after passing Beaverhead Rock,
Captain Lewis and three of the men slung their knapsacks
over their shoulders and set out for the mountains,
determined not to return until they met some nation of
Indians.
Two days later, August 11, Lewis with his spyglass
espied a lone horseman on the hills. The wild-eyed Shoshone,
accustomed to scan the horizon, saw him also.
"He is of a different nation from any we have met,"
remarked Lewis, watching intently through his glass.
"He has a bow and a quiver of arrows, and an elegant
horse without a saddle."
Like a lookout on the hills, the Indian stood and
waited.
"He is undoubtedly a Shoshone. Much of our success
depends on the friendly offices of that nation."
Slowly Lewis advanced. Slowly the Indian came forward,
until, within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly
stopped. Captain Lewis also stopped, and drawing
a three-point blanket from his knapsack held it by the
corners above his head, and unfolding brought it to the
ground as in the act of spreading. Three times he repeated
the Indian signal of hospitality—"Come and sit
on the robe with me."
Still the Indian kept his position, viewing with an air
of suspicion the hunters with Lewis.
"Tabba bone, tabba bone," said Lewis, stripping up
the sleeve of his shirt to show the colour of his skin,—"white
man, white man," a term learned of Sacajawea.
Paralysed the Indian looked, then fled like a frightened
deer. No calls could bring him back.
He said to his people, "I have seen men with faces
pale as ashes, who are makers of thunder and lightning."
"He is a dreamer!" exclaimed the incredulous Shoshones.
"He makes up tales. He must show us these
white men or be put to death," and trembling he started
back with a body of warriors.
Lewis, disappointed at the flight of the Shoshone,
pressed on. Narrower and narrower grew the river.
"Thank God, I have lived to bestride the Missouri!"
exclaimed Hugh McNeil, planting a foot on either side
of the mountain rivulet.
Two miles farther up they drank from the ice-cold
spring at the river's source, and stood on the summit of
the Great Divide. A little creek flowed down the ridge
toward the west. Stooping, they drank,—of the waters
of the Columbia, and slept that night in Idaho. The next
morning, following a well-worn Indian trail, Lewis came
upon two women and a child. One fled, the other, an old
dame encumbered by the child, sat down and bowed her
head as if expecting instant death.
Captain Lewis advanced, lifted her, loaded her with
gifts.
"Tabba bone, tabba bone." Stripping up his sleeve
he showed to the amazed woman the first white skin she
had ever seen.
"Call your companion," motioned Lewis toward the
fleeing woman.
The old dame raised her voice. As fast as she ran
away the young woman came running back, almost out
of breath. She, too, was loaded with trinkets, and the
cheeks of all were painted with vermilion, the Shoshone
emblem of peace.
Without fear now she led him toward sixty mounted
warriors, who were advancing at a gallop as to battle.
"Tabba bone! tabba bone!" explained the women, introducing
the stranger and exhibiting their gifts.
"Ah hi e! Ah hi e!"—"I am much pleased! I am
much pleased!" exclaimed the warriors, leaping from
their horses and embracing Lewis with great cordiality.
Lewis drew forth his imposing calumet of red pipestone
and lighted it. This was a sign language of all
tribes.
Putting off their moccasins as if to say, "May I walk
the forest barefoot forever if I break this pledge of
friendship," they sat down and smoked.
The chief, too, brought out a pipe, of the dense transparent
green stone of the Bannock Mountains, highly
polished. Another led him to a lodge and presented a
piece of salmon,—then Lewis no longer doubted that
he was on waters flowing to the Pacific.
Slowly, Clark, ill with chills and fever, had been coming
forward, urging the canoes up the difficult and narrowing
stream.
Sacajawea, the little Bird-woman, could not wait. In
her anxiety she begged to walk ahead along shore, and
with her husband went dancing up the rivulet of her
childhood. She flew ahead. She turned, pirouetting
lightly on her beaded moccasins, waving her arms and
kissing her fingers. Her long hair flew in the wind and
her beaded necklace sparkled.
Yes, there were the Indians, and Lewis among
them, dressed like an Indian too. The white men
had given everything they had to the Indians, even
their cocked hats and red feathers, and taken Indian
clothes in exchange, robes of the mountain sheep and
goat.
An Indian girl leaned to look at Sacajawea. They
flew into each other's arms. They had been children together,
had been captured in the same battle, had shared
the same captivity. One had escaped to her own people;
the other had been sold as a slave in the Land of the
Dakotahs. As girls will, with arms around each other
they wandered off and talked and talked of the wonderful
fortune that had come to Sacajawea, the wife of a
white man.
A council was immediately called. The Shoshones
spread white robes and hung wampum shells of pearl in
the hair of the white men.
"Sacajawea. Bring her hither," called Lewis.
Tripping lightly into the willow lodge, Sacajawea was
beginning to interpret, when lifting her eyes to the chief,
she recognised her own brother, Cameahwait. She ran
to his side, threw her blanket over his head, and wept
upon his bosom.
Sacajawea, too, was a Princess, come home now to
her Mountain Kingdom.
"We are going through your country to the far
ocean," said Captain Lewis. "We are making
a trail for the traders who will bring you
guns."
"This delights me," answered Cameahwait, with his
fierce eyes, and his lank jaws grown meagre for want of
food. "We are driven into the mountains, when if we
had guns we could meet our enemies in the plains."
All the Shoshone talk was of war, war, war. Their
great terror was the roving Indians of the Saskatchewan,
who, with guns from the British traders, came down like
wolves on the fold. Only flight and wonderful skill with
the bow and arrow saved the Shoshones from destruction.
Horses were their wealth. "Most of them would make
a figure on the south side of James River," said Lewis,
"in the land of fine horses. I saw several with Spanish
brands upon them."
Brother to the Comanche, the Shoshone rode his horse
over rocks and ravines, up declivitous ways and almost impossible
passes. Every warrior had one or two tied to a
stake near his willow hut, night and day, ready for action.
"My horse is my friend. He knows my voice. He
hears me speak. He warns me of the enemy." Little
children played with them, squaws fed them, braves
painted them and decorated their manes and tails with
eagle-plumes, insignia of the Rocky Mountain Indian.
Such horses were a boon to Lewis and Clark, for they were
tractable, sure-footed, inured to the saddle and the pack.
A Shoshone found a tomahawk that Lewis had lost in
the grass, and returned it,—now a tomahawk was worth
a hundred dollars to a Shoshone. They had no knives
or hatchets,—all their wood was split with a wedge of
elkhorn and a mallet of stone. They started their fires
by twirling two dry sticks together.
Through all the valleys the Shoshones sent for their
best horses, to trade for knives and tomahawks. Delighted
they watched the fall of deer before the guns of
white men. The age of stone had met the age of steel.
How to get over the mountains was the daily consultation.
Cameahwait pointed out an old man that knew
the rivers. Clark engaged him for a guide:
"You shall be called Toby. Be ready to-morrow
morning."
Proud of his new name, old Toby packed up his
moccasins.
The Indians drew maps: "Seven days over sheer
mountains. No game, no fish, nothing but roots."
Captain Clark set out to reconnoitre the Salmon River
route.
"A river of high rocks," said Cameahwait, "all a
river of foam. No man or horse can cross. No man
can walk along the shore. We never travel that way."
Nevertheless Clark went on.
For seventy miles, "through mountains almost inaccessible,
and subsisting on berries the greater part of
the route," as Clark afterward told his brother, they
pushed their way, then—"troubles just begun," remarked
old Toby.
Checking their horses on the edge of a precipice, Clark
and his companions looked down on the foaming Snake,
roaring and fretting and lashing the walls of its inky
canyon a hundred feet below, savage, tremendous,
frightful.
As Cameahwait had said, the way was utterly impracticable.
"I name this great branch of the Columbia for my
comrade, Captain Lewis," said Clark.
Back from the Snake River, Clark found Lewis buying
horses. The Shoshone women were mending the men's
moccasins. The explorers were making pack-saddles of
rawhide. For boards they broke up boxes and used the
handles of their oars.
"I have ever held this expedition in equal estimation
with my own existence," said Lewis, urging on the preparations.
"If Indians can pass these mountains, we can."
Haunched around the fires, the forlorn Indians looked
and listened and shook their unkempt heads.
"Me know better route," said the friendly old Shoshone
guide. "To the north, another great water to
the Columbia."
"No! no! no!" shouted all the Shoshones. "No
trail that way."
But Clark believed the faithful old Toby. Evidently
the Shoshones wished to detain them all winter.
Unseen by the Indians, at night a cache was dug at the
head of the Jefferson, for the last of the heavy luggage,
leaving out only Indian gifts and absolute necessities to
carry on the pack-horses. The canoes were filled with
rocks and sunk to the bottom of the river.
August 30, the expedition was ready. Before setting
out the violins were brought and the men danced, to the
great diversion of the Indians. Then, when they turned
their faces to the Bitter Root, with the old guide and his
four sons, the Shoshones set out east for their annual
hunt on the Missouri.
From May to September the Shoshones lived on salmon
that came up the mountain streams. Now that the
salmon were gone, necessity compelled them forth. With
swift dashes down the Missouri they were wont to kill
and dry what buffalo they could, and retreat to consume
it in their mountain fastnesses. The whites had surprised
them in their very citadel—led by Sacajawea.
Along the difficult Bitter Root Mountains Lewis and
Clark journeyed, meeting now and then Indian women
digging yamp and pounding sunflower seeds into meal.
Food grew scarce and scarcer, now and then a deer, a
grouse, or a belated salmon stranded in some mountain
pool. Sometimes they had but a bit of parched corn in
their wallets, like the Immortals that marched to the
conquest of Illinois.
But those snowy peaks that from a distance seemed so
vast,—that like the Alps defied approach to any but a
Hannibal or a Napoleon—now, as if to meet their conquerors,
bent low in many a grassy glade.
In a pocket of the mountains now called Ross Hole,
they came upon a camp of Flatheads, with five hundred
horses, on their way to the Missouri for the Fall hunt of
buffalo.
Unknown to them the Flatheads had been watching
from the timber and had reported: "Strangers. Two
chiefs riding ahead, looking at the country. One warrior
painted black. The rest leading packhorses. Keep quiet.
Wait. They are coming."
York's feet had become lame and he was riding with
the Captains.
When the white men came in view the Flatheads looked
on their faces. They were shocked at the whiteness.
Compassion was in every Indian heart.
"These men have no blankets. They have been robbed.
See how cold their cheeks are. They are chilled. Bring
robes. Build fires."
All the Indians ran for their beautiful white robes, and
wrapped them around the shoulders of the white men.
Before the blazing fires the white men's cheeks grew red.
Perspiration burst from every pore. The robes slipped
off, but the solicitous red men kept putting them back and
stirring up the fire.
Then the Captains, touched to the heart, spoke to the
kind-hearted Flatheads of a great people toward the
rising sun, strong and brave and rich.
"Have they wigwams and much buffalo?" inquired
the Flatheads.
"Yes. We have been sent by the Great Father, the
President, to bring these presents to his children the
Flatheads."
The childlike Flatheads were much impressed. Never
did they forget the visit of those first white men. Traditions
enough to fill a book have been handed down, and to
this day they boast, "the Flathead never killed a white
man."
The whites listened in amaze to the low guttural clucking
of the Flatheads, resembling that of a chicken or
parrot. Voice there was none, only a soft crooning to
their gentle chatter, interpreted by Sacajawea and the
old Shoshone guide.
The women crowded around Sacajawea and untied her
baby from its elkskin cradle. They fed it and gave it little
garments. That baby was an open sesame touching the
hearts of all. Sacajawea, riding on her horse to the
Columbia, found friends with every tribe. Others might
pay; she, never. The Indian mother-heart opened to Sacajawea.
Her very presence was an assurance of pacific
intention.
The women brought food, roots, and berries. To a late
hour the white men continued smoking and conversing
with the chiefs, when more robes were brought, and the
weary ones slept with their feet to the fire.
"Those hongry Injin dorgs ate up me moccasins lasht
noight," complained Pat in the morning. "But they're
the whoitest Injins I iver saw."
More horses were brought and the lame ones exchanged,
so now with forty horses and three colts the
Captains and their devoted followers struggled on, "Over
the warst road I iver saw," said Pat. "Faith! 'tis
warse nor the Alleghanies where I rid whin a bye."
One horse loaded with a desk and small trunk rolled
down a steep declivity until it was stopped by a tree. The
desk was broken. That night they camped at the snow
line and more snow began to fall. Wet, cold, hungry,
they killed a colt for supper and slept under the stars.
The horses were failing. Some had to be abandoned.
One rolled down a mountain into a creek at the bottom.
Some strayed or lost their packs, and the worn-out men,
ever on the jump, came toiling through the brush, bearing
on their own backs the unwieldy pack-saddles. Up here
in the Bitter Root Mountains, the last of Dr. Saugrain's
thermometers was broken, which accounts for the fact
that from this point on they kept no record of temperature.
September 9 the expedition journeyed down the main
Bitter Root valley, named Clark's River, and crossing it
came to a large creek and camped a day to rest their
horses.
"Traveller's Rist, is it?" said Pat. "Me fa-a-ther's
inn at Wellsburg was the fir-r-st 'Traveller's Rist' in
all Wistern Varginny," and Traveller's Rest it remained
until some later explorer renamed it the Lolo fork of the
Bitter Root River.
Here the boys mended their garments torn and tattered
in the mountains, and the hunters went out for game.
They returned with three Flatheads.
"Ay! Ay!" clucked the gentle Flatheads, "the river
goes to the great lake. Our relations were there and
bought handkerchiefs like these of an old white man that
lives by himself."
Lame and weary, straight across Idaho they struggled,
over seams and streaks of precious metal that they saw
not, the gold of Ophir concealed in the rocky chambers
of the Idaho Alps,—struggled into the Lolo trail used
by the Indians for ages before any whites ever came into
the country.
Over the Lolo trail went the Nez Percés to battle and to
hunt buffalo in the Montana country. Down over this
trail once came a war party and captured Wat-ku-ese, a
Nez Percé girl, and carried her away to the distant land
of white men,—so-yap-po, "the crowned ones," she
called them, because they wore hats.
Still ever Wat-ku-ese dreamed of her Nez Percé home
and one day escaped with her infant on her back. Along
the way white traders were kind to her. On and on, footsore
and weary she journeyed alone. In the Flathead
country her baby died and was buried there. One day
some Nez Percés came down over the Lolo trail bringing
home Wat-ku-ese, weak, sick, dying.
She was with her people at their camas ground, Weippe,
when Lewis and Clark came down over the Lolo
trail.
"Let us kill them," whispered the frightened Nez
Percés.
Wat-ku-ese lay dying in her tent when she heard
it. "White men, did you say? No, no, do not harm
them. They are the crowned ones who were so good to
me. Do not be afraid of them. Go near to them."
Cautiously the Nez Percés approached. The explorers
shook their hands. This was to the Indians a new form
of greeting.
Everywhere Indian women were digging the camas
root, round like an onion, and little heaps lay piled here
and there. They paused in their work to watch the
strangers. Some screamed and ran and hid. Little girls
hid their baby brothers in the brush. Others brought
food.
So starved and famished were the men that they ate
inordinately of the sweet camas and the kouse, the biscuit
root. The sudden change to a warmer climate and laxative
roots resulted in sickness, when the expedition might
have been easily attacked but for those words of Wat-ku-ese,
who now lay dead in her tent.
To this day the Nez Percés rehearse the story of Wat-ku-ese.
It was the beginning of a lifelong friendship
with the whites, broken only when Chief Joseph fled over
the Lolo trail. But even Chief Joseph found he must give
up the vast areas over which he was wont to roam, and
come under the laws of civilised life.
As fast as their weakness permitted councils were
held, when the Captains told the Nez Percés of the Great
Father at Washington, who had sent them to visit his
children.
Twisted Hair, the Nez Percé Tewat, a great medicine
man, dreamer and wizard and wise one, drew on a white
elkskin a chart of the rivers. Admiring redmen put
their hands over their mouths in amazement.
No one but Twisted Hair could do such things. He
was a learned Indian, knew all the trails, even to the Falls
of the Columbia.
"White men," said he, "live at the Tim-tim [falls]."
Thus into Idaho had penetrated the story of Ko-na-pe,
the wrecked Spaniard, who with his son Soto had set out
up the great river to find white people and tarried there
until he died. Seven years later Astor's people met Soto,
an old man dark as his Indian mother, but still the Indians
called him white. Twenty years later Soto's daughter
was still living on the Columbia in the days of the Hudson's
Bay Company.
To save time and trouble, canoes were burnt out of logs.
Leaving their horses with the Nez Percés, on October 4
the explorers were glad to get into their boats with their
baggage and float down the clear Kooskooske, into the
yellow-green Snake, and on into the blue Columbia.
At the confluence of the rivers medals were given and
councils held on the present site of Lewiston. Day by
day through wild, romantic scenes where white man's
foot had never trod, the exultant young men were gliding
to the sea.
Ahead of the boats on horseback galloped We-ark-koompt,
an Indian express. Word flew. The tribes were
watching. At the dinner camp, October 16, five Indians
came up the river on foot in great haste, took a look and
started back, running as fast as they could.
That night Lewis and Clark were met at the Columbia
by a procession of two hundred Indians with
drums, singing, "Ke-hai, ke-hai," the redmen's signal
of friendship.
The arrival at the Columbia was followed by days
of councils, with gifts and speeches and smoking.
Two Nez Percé chiefs, Twisted Hair the Tewat
and Tetoh, introduced the explorers from tribe to tribe,
bearing on and on the good words of Wat-ku-ese: "They
are crowned ones. Do not be afraid. Go near to them."
All the Indian world seemed camped on the Columbia.
Everywhere and everywhere were "inconceivable multitudes
of salmon." They could be seen twenty feet deep
in the water, they lay on the surface, and floated ashore.
Hundreds of Indians were splitting and spreading them
on scaffolds to dry. The inhabitants ate salmon, slept
on salmon, burnt dried salmon to cook salmon.
With a coal a Yakima chief drew on a robe a map of
the river so valuable that Clark afterwards transferred it
to paper. That map on the robe was carried home to
Jefferson and hung up by him in Monticello. Every trail
was marked by moccasin tracks, every village by a cluster
of teepees.
In the "high countrey" of the Walla Walla they
caught sight of "the Mt. Hood of Vancouver," and
were eager to reach it.
"Tarry with us," begged Yellept, the Walla Walla
chief.
"When we return," replied the eager men. Then
Clark climbed a cliff two hundred feet above the water
and spied St. Helens. Very well Clark remembered Lord
St. Helens from whom this peak was named. The very
name to him was linked with those old days when "Detroit
must be taken," for Lord St. Helens and John Jay
drew up the treaty that evacuated Detroit.
Captain Clark and a few of the men still continued in
advance walking along the shore.
Near the beautiful Umatilla a white crane rose over
the Columbia. Clark fired. A village of Indians heard
the report and marvelled at the sudden descent of the
bird. As with outspread, fluttering wings it touched
the ground the white men came into view.
One moment of transfixed horror, and the Indians
fled. Captain Clark promptly followed, opened the mat
doors of their huts and entered. With bowed heads,
weeping and wringing their hands, a crowd of men,
women, and children awaited the blow of death.
Lifting their chins, Clark smiled upon them and offered
gifts. Evidently they had not met the Indian express.
"All tribes know the peace-pipe," he remarked, and
drawing forth his pipestone calumet lit it, as was his
wont, with a sunglass.
As the fire kindled from the rays through the open
roof, again the people shrieked. In vain Drouillard tried
to pacify them. Not one would touch the pipe lit by the
sun. Clark went out and sat on a rock and smoked until
the boats arrived.
"Do not be afraid. Go to them," began the Nez Percé
chiefs.
"They are not men," hurriedly whispered the frightened
Indians. "We saw them fall from heaven with
great thunder. They bring fire from the sky."
Not until Sacajawea landed with her baby was tranquillity
restored.
"No squaw travels with a war party," that must
be admitted, and soon they were smoking with great
unanimity.
"Tim-m-m-m;—tim-m-m-m!" hummed the Indians
at the Falls, at Celilo, poetically imitating the sound of
falling waters.
There was salmon at the Falls of the Columbia, stacks
of salmon dried, pounded, packed in baskets, salmon
heaped in bales, stored in huts and cached in cellars in
the sand. Making a portage around the Falls, the boats
slid down.
"De rapide! de rapide! before we spik some prayer
we come on de beeg rock!" screamed Cruzatte, the
bowman.
Apparently a black wall stretched across the river, but
as they neared, a rift appeared where the mighty channel
of the Columbia narrows to forty-five yards at the
Dalles. Crowds of Indians gathered as Clark and Cruzatte
stopped to examine the pass.
"By good steering!" said Cruzatte. Shaping up his
canoe, it darted through the hissing and curling waters
like a racehorse.
Close behind, the other boats shot the boiling caldron,
to the great astonishment of Indian villagers watching
from above.
At the Warm Springs Reservation there are Indians
yet who remember the old dip-net fishing days and the
stories of "Billy Chinook," who then saw York, the
black man. "I was a boy of twelve. When the black
man turned and looked at us, we children fled behind the
rocks."
Here at the Dalles were wooden houses, the first that
Lewis and Clark had seen since leaving the Illinois country,
with roofs, doors, and gables like frontier cabins,—and
still more stacks of salmon. "Ten thousand pounds,"
said Clark, "dried, baled, and bound for traffic down the
river."
The ancient Indian village of Wishram stands on that
spot still, with the same strong smell of salmon. The
houses are much the same, and among their treasures
may be found a coin of 1801, bartered, no doubt, by
Lewis and Clark for a bale of salmon.
On sped the boats, through mighty mountains, past
ancient burial places of the savage dead, to the wild-rushing
Cascades. Past these Cascades, five miles of
continuous rapids, white with sheets of foam. "We
mak' portage," said Cruzatte, his bow grating on the
narrow shelf of shore.
On either side, rocky palisades, "green-mossed and
dripping," reached the skies. Tiny waterfalls, leaping
from the clouds, fell in rainbow mist a thousand feet
below. "Mt. Hood stood white and vast."
Below the Cascades great numbers of hair-seals slept
on the rocks. Swarms of swans, geese, ducks, cranes,
storks, white gulls, cormorants, plover swept screaming
by. The hills were green, the soft west wind was warm
with rain.
"What a wild delight
Of space! of room! What a sense of seas!"
They had come into a new world,—the valley of the
lower Columbia, the home of the Chinook wind.
At Hood River alarmed Indians, dressed in skins of
the mountain goat, the Oregon mazama, peered after
the passing white men. At every house, and among
mouldering remains of ancient tombs, lay scattered innumerable
images of wood and stone or of burnt clay,
household gods of the Columbian Indian.
Flat and flatter grew the heads. Up in the Bitter
Root, women alone wore this badge of distinction. Here,
every infant lay strapped like a mummy with a padded
board across its forehead.
A new sort of boats now glided alongside the flotilla,
great sea canoes manned with Chinook paddles. They
were long and light, tapering at the ends, wide in the
middle and lifting stern and prow into beaks like a
Roman galley. And every canoe was laden with salmon,
going down river to trade for beads and wapato.
Traces of white men began to appear,—blue and scarlet
blankets, brass tea-kettles, and beads. One Indian,
with a round hat and a sailor-jacket, wore his hair in a
queue in imitation of the "Bostons."
"I trade with Mr. Haley," said one in good English,
showing the bow of iron and other goods that Mr. Haley
had given him. "And this is his squaw in the canoe."
More and more fertile and delightful grew the country,
shaded by thick groves of tall timber and watered by
streams, fair as lay unpeopled Kentucky thirty years before.
Scarce could Clark repress the recollection of the
tales his brother brought home of that first trip to Boonsboro
in 1775.
Nothing surprised them more than the tropic luxuriance
of vegetation. The moist Japan wind nurtured the
trees to mammoths, six, eight, and ten feet through.
Shrubbery like the hazel grew to be trees. The maple
spread its leaves like palm fans; dogwood of magnolian
beauty, wild cherry, crab-apple, interlaced with Oregon
grape, blackberries, wild roses, vines of every sort and
description, and ferns, ferns, ferns filled the canyons like
the jungles of Orinoco.
On November 4, nearly opposite the present Vancouver,
they landed at a village on the left side of the
river where a fleet of over fifty canoes was drawn up on
shore, gathering wapato.
"Wapato? Wapato?" An Indian treated them to
the queen root of the Columbia, round and white, about
the size of a small Irish potato. This, baked, was the
bread of the Chinook Indian.
"In two days," said Indians in sailor jackets and
trousers, shirts, and hats, "in two days, two ships, white
people in them."
"Village there," said an Indian in a magnificent
canoe, pointing beyond some islands at the mouth of the
Willamette. He was finely dressed and wore a round
hat.
Yes, it might be, villages, villages everywhere, but
ships—ships below! They had no time for villages
now. Long into the darkness of night the boats sped
on, on, past dim forests bending to the wave, past
shadowy heights receding into sunset, past campfires on
the hills where naked Indians walked between them and
the light.
At a late hour they camped. November rains were
setting in, the night was noisy with wild fowl coming
up the Columbia to escape the storms of ocean. Trumpeter
swans blew their shrill clarions, and whistling
swans, geese, and other birds in flights of hundreds
swept past in noisy serenade, dropping from their wings
the spray of the sea.
None slept. Toward morning the rain began.
In a wet morning and a rushing wind they bent to the
oar, past St. Helens, past Mt. Coffin, past Cathlamet
where Queen Sally in scant garments watched from a
rock and told the tale in after years.
"We had been watching for days," she said. "News
had come by Indian post of the strangers from the east.
They came in the afternoon and were met by our canoes
and brought to the village." "There," Clark says in his
journals, "we dined on November 26."
But Lewis and Clark were tired of Indians by this
time, and moreover, ships were waiting below! It was
a moment of intense excitement. Even at Cathlamet
they heard the surge of ocean rolling on the rocks forty
miles away. Before night the fog lifted and they beheld
"the ocean!—that ocean, the object of all our labours,
the reward of all our anxieties. Ocean in view! O! the
joy."
Struggling with their unwieldy canoes the landsmen
grew seasick in the rising swells of the up-river tide.
For miles they could not find a place to camp, so wild
and rocky were the shores.
At last, exhausted, they threw their mats on the beautiful
pebbly beach and slept in the rain.
Everything was wet, soaked through, bedding, stores,
clothing. And all the salt was spoiled. There was nothing
to eat but raw dried salmon, wet with sea water, and
many of the men began to be ill from exposure and improper
food.
"'T is the divil's own weather," said Pat, coming in
from a reconnoitre with his wet hunting shirt glued fast
to his skin. Pat could see the "waves loike small mountains
rolling out in the ocean," but just now he, like all
the rest, preferred a dry corner by a chimney fire.
"Une Grande Piqnique!" exclaimed Cruzatte.
"Lak' tonder de ocean roar!
Blow lak' not'ing I never see,
Blow lak' le diable makin' grande tour!
Hear de win' on de beeg pine tree!"
And all were hungry. Even Clark, who claimed to
be indifferent as to what he ate, caught himself pondering
on bread and buns. With the peculiar half laugh of
the squaw, Sacajawea brought a morsel that she had
saved for the child all the way from the Mandan towns,
but now it was wet and beginning to sour. Clark took
it and remarked in his journal, "This bread I ate with
great satisfaction, it being the only mouthful I had tasted
for several months."
Chinook Indians pilfered around the camp. "If any
one of your nation steals anything from us, I will have
you shot," said Captain Clark,—"which they understand
very well," he remarked to the camp as the troublers
slunk away. A sentinel stood on constant watch.
Captain Lewis and eleven of the men went around the
bay and found where white people had been camped all
summer, but naught remained save the cold white beach
and the Indians camping there. The ships had sailed.
Down there near the Chinook town, facing the ocean,
Captain Lewis branded a tree with his name and the
date, and a few days later Captain Clark says, "I marked
my name on a large pine tree immediately on the isthmus,
at Clatsop."
It was two hundred years since Captain John Smith
sailed up the Chickahominy in Virginia in search of the
South Sea. At last, far beyond the Chickahominy, Lewis
and Clark sailed up the Missouri and down the Columbia
in search of the same South Sea. And here at the mouth
of the Oregon they found it, stretching away to China.
Balboa, Magellan, Cortez, Mackenzie,—Lewis and
Clark had joined the immortals.
December had now arrived, and southwest
storms broke upon the coast with tremendous
force. Off Cape Disappointment, the surges
dashed to the height of the masthead of a ship, with
most terrific roaring. A winter encampment could no
longer be delayed.
"Deer, elk, good skin, good meat," said the Chinook
Indians, in pantomime, pointing across the bay to the
south.
Accordingly, thither the eggshell boats were guided,
across the tempestuous Columbia, to the little river
Netul, now the Lewis and Clark, ten miles from the
ocean.
Beside a spring branch, in a thick grove of lofty firs
about two hundred yards from the water, the leather
tent was set up and big fires built, while all hands fell
to clearing a space for the winter cabins.
In four days the logs were rolled up, Boonsboro
fashion, into shelters for the winter. "The foinest
puncheons I iver saw," said Patrick Gass, head carpenter,
as he set to splitting boards out of the surrounding
firs.
By Christmas seven cabins were covered and the floors
laid. The chinks were filled with clay, and fir-log fires
were set roaring in the capacious chimneys that filled an
entire end of each cabin. On Christmas day they moved
in, wet blankets and all, with rounds of firearms and
Christmas salutes.
The leather tent, soaked for days, fell to pieces. The
heavy canisters of powder, every one of which had been
under the water in many a recent capsize, were consigned
in safety to the powder-house.
On New Year's Eve the palisades were done, and the
gates were closed at sunset.
The first winter-home of civilised people on the Columbia
has an abiding charm, not unlike that of Plymouth
or Jamestown.
Back through the mists of one hundred years we see
gangs of elk, chased by hunters through cranberry bogs,
"that shook for the space of half an acre."
Their soundless footfalls were lost in beds of brown
pine needles and cushions of moss. The firing of guns
reverberated through the dim gloom like a piece of
ordnance.
It was from such a trip as this that the hunters returned
on the 16th of December, reporting elk. All
hands set to work carrying up the meat from the loaded
boats, skinning and cutting and hanging it up in small
pieces in the meathouse, to be smoked by a slow bark
fire. But in spite of every precaution, the meat began
to spoil.
"We must have salt," said Captain Lewis.
In a few days, five men were dispatched with five
kettles to build a cairn for the manufacture of salt from
seawater.
Already Clark had examined the coast with this in
view, and the salt-makers' camp was established near
Tillamook Head, about fifteen miles southwest of the
fort where the old cairn stands to this day. Here the
men built "a neat, close camp, convenient to wood, salt
water and the fresh waters of the Clatsop River, within
a hundred paces of the ocean," and kept the kettles boiling
day and night.
On that trip to the coast, while the cabins were building,
Captain Clark visited the Clatsops, and purchased
some rude household furniture, cranberries, mats, and
the skin of a panther, seven feet from tip to tip, to cover
their puncheon floor.
Other utensils were easily fashioned. Seated on
puncheon stools, before the log-fire of the winter night,
the men carved cedar cups, spoons, plates, and dreamed
of homes across the continent.
In just such a little log cabin as this, Shannon saw
his mother in Ohio woods; Patrick Gass pictured his
father, with his pipe, at Wellsburg, West Virginia;
Sergeant Ordway crossed again the familiar threshold
at Hebron, New Hampshire. Clark recalled Mulberry
Hill, and Lewis,—his mind was fixed on Charlottesville,
or the walls expanded into Monticello and the
White House.
"Mak' some pleasurement now," begged the Frenchmen,
"w'en Bonhomme Cruzatte tune up hees fidelle
for de dance."
Tales were told and plans were made. Toward midnight
these Sinbads of the forest fell asleep, on their
beds of fir boughs, lulled by the brook, the whispering
of the pines, and the falling of the winter rain.
This was not like winter rain in eastern climates, but
soft and warm as April. The grass grew green, Spring
flowers opened in December. The moist Japan wind
gives Oregon the temperature of England.
"I most sincerely regret the loss of my thermometer,"
said Lewis. "I am confident this climate is much milder
than the same latitude on the Atlantic. I never experienced
so warm a winter."
But about the last of January there came a snow at
Clatsop, four inches thick, and icicles hung from the
houses during the day.
"A real touch of winter," said Lewis. "The breath
is perceptible in our room by the fire." Like all Oregon
snow it disappeared in a week—and then it was
Spring.
In the centre of the officer's cabin, a fir stump, sawed
off smooth and flat for a table, was covered with maps
and papers. Books were written in that winter of 1805-6,
voluminous records of Oregon plants and trees, birds,
beasts, and fishes. They had named rivers and measured
mountains, and after wandering more than Homer's
heroes, the explorers were ready now to carry a new
geography to the States. And here, as everywhere,
Lewis was busy with his vocabularies, learning the Chinook
jargon.
As never before, all the men became scientists. Even
Captain Clark's black man took an interest and reported
some fabulous finds.
The houses were dry and comfortable, and within,
they had a plentiful supply of elk and salt, "excellent,
white, and fine, but not so strong as the rock salt, or that
made in Kentucky."
Meal time was always interesting. Very often the
Captains caught themselves asking: "Charboneau, when
will dinner be ready?"
All day the firelight flickered on Sacajawea's hair, as
she sat making moccasins, crooning a song in her soft
Indian monotone. This was, perhaps, the happiest winter
Sacajawea ever knew, with baby Touissant toddling
around her on the puncheon floor, pulling her shawl
around his chubby face, or tumbling over his own cradle.
The modest Shoshone princess never dreamed how the
presence of her child and herself gave a touch of domesticity
to that Oregon winter.
Now and then Indian women came to see Sacajawea, sitting
all day without a word, watching her every motion.
Sometimes Sacajawea helped Charboneau, with his
spits, turning slowly before the fire, or with his elk's
tongues or sausage or beaver's tails. Sometimes she
made trapper's butter, boiling up the marrow of the shank
bones with a sprinkle of salt.
In the short days darkness came on at four o'clock,
and the last of the candles were soon exhausted. Then
the moulds were brought and candles were made of elk
tallow, until a heap, shining and white, were ready for
the winter evenings.
"We have had trouble enough with those thieving
Chinooks," said Captain Lewis. "Without a special
permit, they are to be excluded from the fort."
The Indians heard it. Did a knock resound at the
gate, "No Chinook!" was the quick accompaniment.
"Who, then?" demanded the sentinel, gun in hand.
"Clatsop," answered Coboway's people entering with
roots and cranberries.
Or, "Cathlamets," answered an up-river tribe with
rush bags of wapato on their backs. Roots of the edible
thistle—white and crisp as a carrot, sweet as sugar,
the roasted root of the fern, resembling the dough of
wheat, and roots of licorice, varied the monotonous fare.
These supplies were very welcome, but the purchase
money, that was the problem.
President Jefferson had given to Captain Lewis an unlimited
letter of credit on the United States, but such a
letter would not buy from these Indians even a bushel
of wapato.
The Cathlamets would trade for fishhooks. The Clatsops
preferred beads, knives, or an old file.
No wonder they valued an old file: the finest work of
their beautiful canoes was often done with a chisel fashioned
from an old file. Lewis and Clark had frequent
occasion to admire their skill in managing these little
boats, often out-riding the waves in the most tumultuous
seas.
Ashore, these canoe-Indians waddled and rolled like
tipsy sailors. Afloat, straight and trim as horse-Indians
of the prairie, each deft Chinook glided to his seat along
the unrocking boats, and striking up the paddlers' "Ho-ha-ho-ha-ho-ha-"
went rowing all their lives, until their
arms grew long and strong, their legs shrunk short and
crooked, and their heads became abnormally intelligent.
Nor were these coast Indians lacking in courage,—they
sometimes ventured into the sea in their wonderful
canoes, and harpooned the great whale and towed him in.
When it came to prices for their beautiful skins of sea-otter,
almost nothing would do. Clark offered a watch,
a handkerchief, an American dollar, and a bunch of red
beads for a single skin.
"No! No!" in stentorian tone—"Tyee ka-mo-suck,—chief
beads,"—the most common sort of large blue
glass beads, the precious money of that country. Chiefs
hung them on their bosoms, squaws bound them on their
ankles, pretty maidens hung them in their hair. But
Lewis and Clark had only a few and must reserve them
for most pressing necessity.
Since that May morning when Captain Robert Gray
discovered the Columbia River, fourteen years before,
the Chinook Indians had learned the value of furs.
Once they handed over their skins, and took without a
murmur what the Boston skippers chose to give. Now,
a hundred ships upon that shore had taught them craft.
One of old King Comcomly's people had a robe of sea-otter,
"the fur of which was the most beautiful we had
ever seen." In vain Lewis offered everything he had,
nothing would purchase the treasured cloak but the belt
of blue beads worn by Sacajawea.
On every hand among these coast tribes were blankets,
sailor-clothes, guns,—old Revolutionary muskets mended
for this trade,—powder and ball, the powder in little
japanned tin flasks in which the traders sold it.
In what Clark calls "a guggling kind of language
spoken mostly through the throat," with much pantomime
and some English, conversation was carried on.
"Who are these traders?" asked Captain Lewis.
Old Comcomly, King of the Chinooks, on the north
side, and Tyee Coboway, Chief of the Clatsops, on the
south bank of the Columbia, tried to remember, and
counted on their fingers,—
"Haley, three masts, stays some time," "Tallamon
not a trader," "Callalamet has a wooden leg," "Davidson,
no trader, hunts elk," "Skelley, long time ago, only
one eye."
And then there were "Youens, Swipton, Mackey,
Washington, Mesship, Jackson, Balch," all traders with
three-masted ships whose names are not identified by
any Atlantic list.
The one translated Washington by Lewis and Clark
may have been Ockington of the Belle Savage, 1801, or
Tawnington, both of whom are known to have been on
the coast in those years.
In fact, no complete record was ever kept of the ships
that swarmed around the Horn and up the Pacific, in
those infant years of our republic, 1787 to 1820. While
Europe clustered around the theatre of Napoleonic wars,
every harbour of New England had its fur ships and
whalers out, flying the Stars and Stripes around the
world.
"What do they say?" inquired Lewis, still pressing
investigation. Proud of their acquirements, every Chinook
and Clatsop in the nation could recall some word
or phrase.
"Musket, powder, shot, knife, file, heave the lead,
damned rascal!"
No wonder Lewis and Clark laughed, these mother
words on the savage tongue were like voices out of the
very deep, calling from the ships.
"One hyas tyee ship—great chief ship—Moore, four
masts, three cows on board."
"Which way did he go?"
The Indians pantomimed along the northwest coast.
"From which," says Lewis, "I infer there must be
settlements in that direction."
The great desire, almost necessity, now, seemed to be
to wait until some ship appeared upon the shore from
which to replenish their almost exhausted stores.
Whenever the boats went in and out of Meriwether
Bay they passed the Memeloose Illahee, the dead country
of the Clatsops. Before 1800, as near as Lewis and
Clark could ascertain, several hundred of the Clatsops
died suddenly of a disease that appeared to be smallpox,
the same undoubtedly that cut down Black Bird and his
Omahas, rolling on west and north where the Hudson's
Bay traders traced it to the borders of the Arctic.
In Haley's Bay one hundred canoes in one place bespoke
the decimation of the Chinooks, all slumbering
now in that almost priceless carved coffin, the Chinook
canoe, with gifts around them and feet to the sunset,
ready to drift on an unknown voyage.
There was a time when Indian campfires stretched
from Walla Walla to the sea, when fortifications were
erected, and when Indian flint factories supplied the
weapons of countless warriors. But they are gone. The
first settlers found sloughs and bayous lined with burial
canoes, until the dead were more than the living. No
Indians knew whose bones they were, "those old, old,
old people." Red children and white tumbled them out
of the cedar coffins and carried away the dead men's
treasures.
"There was mourning along the rivers. A quietness
came over the land." Stone hammers, flint chips, and
arrows lie under the forests, and embers of fires two centuries
old.
The native tribes were disappearing before the white
man came, and the destruction of property with the dead
kept the survivors always impoverished.
"A whale! a whale ashore!"
When Chief Coboway brought word there
was great excitement at Fort Clatsop. Everybody
wanted to see the whale, but few could go. Captain
Clark appointed twelve men to be ready at daylight.
Sacajawea, in the privacy of her own room that Sunday
evening, spoke to Charboneau. Now Charboneau wanted
her to stay and attend to the "l'Apalois"—roasting
meats on a stick,—and knowing that the child would
have to be looked after, slipped over to the Captains,
discussing by the fire.
"Sacajawea t'ink she want to see de whale. She ought
not go."
"Very well," answered the Captains, scarce heeding.
"She better stay at the fort. It would be a hard jaunt
for a woman to go over Tillamook Head."
Charboneau went back. "De Captinne say you cannot
go!"
This was a staggering blow to Sacajawea, but her
woman's determination had become aroused and she took
the rostrum, so to speak. Leaving the baby Touissant
with his father, she in turn slipped over to the Captains.
Sacajawea was a born linguist. "Captinne, you remember
w'en we reach de rivers and you knew not which
to follow? I show de country an' point de stream. Again
w'en my husband could not spik, I spik for you.
"Now, Captinne, I travel great way to see de Beeg
Water. I climb de mountain an' help de boat on de
rapide. An' now dis monstous fish haf come"—Sacajawea
could scarce restrain her tears. Sacajawea was
only a woman, and a brave little woman at that.
Captain Lewis was moved. "Sacajawea, you are one
of those who are born not to die. Of course you can go.
Go and be getting ready, and," he added, "if Charboneau
wants to go too, he will have to carry the baby!"
They breakfasted by candle-light. Everybody was
ready next morning, but Sacajawea was ahead of them
all. Charboneau looked at her out of the corner of his
eye, but said nothing. More than once the Captains had
reminded him of his duty.
The sun rose clear and cloudless on a land of springtime,
and yet it was only January. Robins sang around
the stockade, bluebirds whizzed by, silver in the sunlight.
Two canoes proceeded down the Netul into Meriwether
Bay, on the way to the Clatsop town.
After a day's adventure, they camped near a herd of
elk in the beautiful moonlight. At noon, next day, they
reached the salt-makers. Here Jo Fields, Bratton, and
Gibson had their brass kettles under a rock arch, boiling
and boiling seawater into a gallon of salt a day.
Hiring Twiltch, a young Indian, for guide, they
climbed Tillamook Head, about thirty miles south of
Cape Disappointment. Upon this promontory, Clark's
Point of View, they paused before the boisterous Pacific,
breaking with fury and flinging its waves above the
Rock of Tillamook.
On one side the blue Columbia widened into bays
studded with Chinook and Clatsop villages; on the other
stretched rich prairies, enlivened by beautiful streams
and lakes at the foot of the hills. Behind, in serried rank,
the Douglas spruce—"the tree of Turner's dreams,"
the king of conifers,—stood monarch of the hills. Two
hundred, three hundred feet in air they towered, a hundred
feet without a limb, so dense that not a ray of sun
could reach the ground beneath.
Sacajawea, save Pocahontas the most travelled Indian
Princess in our history, spoke not a word, but looked with
calm and shining eye upon the fruition of her hopes.
Now she could go back to the Mandan towns and speak
of things that Madame Jussaume had never seen, and of
the Big Water beyond the Shining Mountains.
Down the steep and ragged rocks that overhung the
sea, they clambered to a Tillamook village, where lay the
great whale, stranded on the shore. Nothing was left
but a skeleton, for from every Indian village within travelling
distance, men and women were working like bees
upon the huge carcass. Then home they went, trailing
over the mountains, every squaw with a load of whale
blubber on her back, to be for many a month the dainty
of an Indian lodge.
These Indian lodges or houses were a source of great
interest to Lewis and Clark. Sunk four feet into the
ground and rising well above, like an out-door cellar, they
were covered with ridgepoles and low sloping roofs. The
sides were boarded with puncheons of cedar, laboriously
split with elkhorn wedges and stone hammers.
A door in the gable admitted to this half-underground
home by means of a ladder. Around the inner walls,
beds of mats were raised on scaffolds two or three feet
high, and under the beds were deposited winter stores of
dried berries, roots, nuts, and fish.
In the centre of each house a fireplace, six or eight feet
long, was sunk in the floor, and surrounded by a cedar
fender and mats for the family to sit on. The walls,
lined with mats and cedar bark, formed a very effective
shelter.
Did some poor stranded mariner teach the savage this
semi-civilised architecture, or was it evolved by his own
genius? However this may be, these houses were found
from Yaquina Bay to Yakutat.
In such a house as this Captain Clark visited Coboway,
chief of the Clatsops, in his village on the sunny side of a
hill. As soon as he entered, clean mats were spread.
Coboway's wife, Tse-salks, a Tillamook Princess, brought
berries and roots and fish on neat platters of rushes.
Syrup of sallal berries was served in bowls of horn and
meat in wooden trenchers.
Naturally, Sacajawea was interested in domestic utensils,
wooden bowls, spoons of horn, skewers and spits
for roasting meat, and beautifully woven water-tight
baskets.
Every squaw habitually carried a knife, fastened to the
thumb by a loop of twine, to be hid under the robe when
visitors came. These knives, bought of the traders, were
invaluable to the Indian mother. With it she dug roots,
cut wood, meat, or fish, split rushes for her flag mats and
baskets, and fashioned skins for dresses and moccasins.
Ever busy they were, the most patient, devoted women
in the world.
Sacajawea, with her beautiful dress and a husband
who sometimes carried the baby, was a new sort of mortal
on this Pacific coast.
While they were conversing, a flock of ducks lit on the
water. Clark took his rifle and shot the head off one.
The astonished Indians brought the bird and marvelled.
Their own poor flintlocks, loaded with bits of gravel when
shot failed, often would not go off in cold weather, but
here was "very great medicine." They examined the
duck, the musket, and the small bullets, a hundred to the
pound.
"Kloshe musquet! wake! kum-tux musquet! A very
good musquet! No! do not understand this kind of
musquet!"
Thus early is it a historical fact that the Chinook
jargon was already established on the Pacific coast. This
jargon, a polyglot of traders' tongues, like the old Lingua
Franca of the Mediterranean, is used by the coast Indians
to this day from the Columbia River to Point Barrow on
the Arctic. And for its birth we may thank the Boston
traders.
Chinooks, Clatsops, Tillamooks faced that stormy beach
and lived on winter stores of roots, berries, fish, and dried
meat. Their beautiful elastic bows of white cedar were
seldom adequate to kill the great elk, so when the rush
bags under the beds were empty, they watched for fish
thrown up by the waves.
"Sturgeon is very good," said a Clatsop in English,
peering and prying along the hollows of the beach. But
the great whale, Ecola, that was a godsend to the poor
people. Upon it now they might live until the salmon
came, flooding the country with plenty.
Old Chief Coboway of the Clatsops watched those
shores for sixty years. He did not tell this story to
Lewis and Clark, but he told it to his children, and so it
belongs here.
"An old woman came crying to the Clatsop village:
'Something on the shore! Behold, it is no whale! Two
spruce trees stand upright on it. Ropes are tied to those
spruce trees. Behold bears came out of it!' Then all
the people ran. Behold the bears had built a fire of driftwood
on the shore. They were popping corn. They held
copper kettles in their hands. They had lids. The bears
pointed inland and asked for water. Then two people
took the kettles and ran inland. They hid. Some climbed
up into the thing. They went down into the ship. It was
full of boxes. They found brass buttons in a string half
a fathom long. They went out. They set fire. The ship
burned. It burned like fat. Then the Clatsops gathered
the iron, the copper, and the brass. Then were the Clatsops
rich."
One of these men was Ko-na-pe. He and his companion
were held as slaves. Ko-na-pe was a worker in
iron and could fashion knives and hatchets. From that
time the Clatsops had knives. He was too great to be
held as a slave, so the Clatsops gave him and his friend
their liberty. They built a cabin at a place now known as
New Astoria, but the Indians called it "Ko-na-pe," and
it was known by that name long after the country was
settled by the whites.
February had now arrived. For weeks every man not
a hunter stood over the kettles with his deer-skin sleeves
rolled up, working away at elkskins, rubbing, dipping,
and wringing. Then again they went back into the suds
for another rubbing and working, and then the beautiful
skin, hung up to smoke and dry, came out soft and
pliable.
Shields, the skilful, cut out the garments with a butcher
knife, and all set to work with awls for needles and deer
sinews for thread.
For weeks this leather-dressing and sewing had been
going on, some using the handy little "housewives" given
by Dolly Madison and the ladies of the White House,
until Captain Lewis records, "the men are better fitted
with clothing and moccasins than they have been since
starting on this voyage."
Captain Lewis and Captain Clark had each a large coat
finished of the skin of the "tiger cat," of which it "took
seven robes to make a coat."
With beads and old razors, Captain Lewis bought
high-crowned Chinook hats, of white cedar-bark and bear-grass,
woven European fashion by the nimble fingers of
the Clatsop girls, fine as Leghorn and water-tight.
Patrick Gass counted up the moccasins and found three
hundred and fifty-eight pairs, besides a good stock of
dressed elkskins for tents and bedding. "And I compute
131 elk and 20 deer shot in this neighbourhood during the
winter," he added.
But now the elk were going to the mountains, game
was practically unobtainable. Now and then Drouillard
snared a fine fat beaver or an otter in his traps; sometimes
the Indians came over with sturgeon, fresh anchovies, or
a bag of wapato, but even this supply was precarious and
uncertain.
February 11, Captain Clark completed a map of the
country, including rivers and mountains from Fort Mandan
to Clatsop, dotting in cross-cuts for the home journey,
the feat of a born geographer.
February 21 the saltmakers returned, with twelve gallons
of salt sealed up to last to the cache on the Jefferson.
While Shields refitted the guns, others opened and
examined the precious powder. Thirty-five canisters
remained, and yet, banged as they had been over many a
mountain pass, and sunk in many a stream, all but five
were found intact as when they were sealed at Pittsburg.
Three were bruised and cracked, one had been pierced
by a nail, one had not been properly sealed, but by care
the men could dry them out and save the whole.
The greatest necessity now was a boat. A long, slim
Chinook canoe made out of a single tree of fir or cedar
was beyond price. Preliminary dickers were tried with
Chinooks and Clatsops. Finally Drouillard went up to
Cathlamet.
Of all the trinkets that Drouillard could muster, nothing
short of Captain Lewis's laced uniform coat could induce
Queen Sally's people to part with a treasured canoe.
And here it was. Misfortune had become a joke.
"Well, now, the United States owes me a coat,"
laughed Lewis, as he found his last civilised garment
gone to the savages.
"Six blue robes, one of scarlet, five made out of the old
United States' flag that had floated over many a council,
a few old clothes, Clark's uniform coat and hat and a few
little trinkets that might be tied in a couple of handkerchiefs,"
this was the reserve fund to carry them two
thousand miles to St. Louis.
But each stout-hearted explorer had his gun and plenty
of powder—that was wealth.
"Now, in case we never reach the United States," said
Lewis, "what then?"
"We must leave a Memorial," answered Clark. And
so the Captains prepared this document:
"The object of this list is, that through the medium of
some civilised person, who may see the same, it may be made
known to the world, that the party consisting of the persons
whose names are hereunto annexed, and who were sent out
by the Government of the United States to explore the interior
of the continent of North America, did penetrate the
same by the way of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, to the
discharge of the latter into the Pacific ocean, where they arrived
on the 14th day of November, 1805, and departed the
23d day of March, 1806, on their return to the United States
by the same route by which they had come out."
To this document every man signed his name, and
copies were given to the various chiefs. One was posted
at Fort Clatsop to be given to any trader that might arrive
in the river, and thus, in case of their death, some account
of their exploration might be saved to the world. On the
back of some of the papers Clark sketched the route.
At last only one day's food remained. Necessity compelled
removal. In vain their eyes were strained toward
the sea. Never were Lewis and Clark destined to see a
summer day on the Columbia, when sails of ships flapped
listlessly against the masts, and vessels heaved reluctantly
on the sluggish waters, rolling in long swells on Clatsop
beach.
On Sunday, March 23, 1806, the boats were loaded and
all was ready. Chief Coboway came over at noon to bid
them good bye.
In gratitude for many favours during the past winter,
Lewis and Clark presented their houses and furniture to
the kind-hearted old chief.
Chief Coboway made Fort Clatsop his winter home
during the remainder of his life. Years passed. The
stockade fell down, young trees grew up through the
cabins, but the spring is there still, gushing forth its
waters, cool as in the adventurous days of one hundred
years ago.
In this very December of 1805 while Lewis and Clark
were struggling with the storms of ocean at the mouth
of the Columbia, a thousand miles to the north of
them the indefatigable and indomitable Simon Fraser
was also building a fort, among the lochs and bens of
New Caledonia, the British Columbia of to-day.
On the very day that Lewis and Clark left Fort Mandan,
Simon Fraser and his men had faced toward the
Rockies. While Lewis and Clark were exploring the
Missouri, Fraser and his voyageurs were pulling for
dear life up the Saskatchewan and over to Athabasca.
On the very day that Lewis and Clark moved into Fort
Clatsop, Simon Fraser, at the Rocky Mountain Portage,
had men busily gathering stones "to get a chimney built
for his bedroom." The icy northern winter came down,
but in January mortar was made to plaster his trading
fort, the Rocky Mountain Portage at the Peace River
Pass.
All that Arctic winter he traded with the natives, killed
deer and moose, and made pemmican for an expedition
still farther to the west.
All through the stormy, icy April, building his boats
and pounding his pemmican, Fraser stamped and stormed
and swore because the snows refused to melt—because
the rivers yet were blocked with ice.
The boats were at the door, the bales of goods were
tied, when the ice began to break in May.
The moment the river was clear all hands were roused
at daybreak. Simon Fraser turned the Rocky Mountain
Portage over to McGillivray, who had arrived on snow
shoes, and pressed on west, discovering McLeod Lake
and building Fort McLeod upon its shores. Then he
portaged over to the Fraser, which he believed to be the
Columbia, and going up the Stuart branch built Fort
St. James on Stuart Lake. During the winter and summer,
after Lewis and Clark reached home, he built Fort
Fraser on Fraser Lake, and Fort George upon the Fraser
River, still thinking it was the Columbia.
"Now will I reach the mouth of this Columbia," said
Fraser in the Spring of 1808, launching his boat, the Perseverance,
upon the wildest water of the North.
"You cannot pass," said the Indians, and they waved
and whirled their arms to indicate the mad tumultuous
swirling of the waters.
"Whatever the obstacle," said Simon Fraser, "I shall
follow this river to the end," and down he went for days
and days through turbulent gulfs and whirlpools, past
rocks and rapids and eddies, under frowning, overhanging
precipices in the high water of May.
The Indians spoke of white people.
"It must be Lewis and Clark," groaned Fraser, redoubling
his effort to win another empire for his king.
Daily, hourly, risking their lives, at every step in the
Mountains the Indians said, "You can go no further."
But the sturdy Scotchmen gripped their oars and set
their teeth, turning, doubling, twisting, shooting past
rocky points that menaced death, portaging, lifting
canoes by sheer grit and resolution up almost impassable
rockways, over cliffs almost without a foothold and
down into the wave again. So ran the Northwesters
down the wild river to the sea, and camped near the
present site of New Westminster. And lo! it was not
the Columbia.
Back came Simon Fraser to Fort William on Lake
Superior to report what he had done, and they crowned
his brow with the name of his own great river, the
Fraser.
Travellers look down the frowning Fraser gorge to-day,
and little realise why Simon Fraser made that daring
journey.
While Lewis and Clark were making preparations
to leave Fort Clatsop, all unknown to
them a ship was trying to cross the bar into
the Columbia River. And what a tale had she to tell,—of
hunger, misery, despair, and death at Sitka.
Since 1787 the Boston ships had been trading along
these shores. In that year 1792, when Captain Robert
Gray discovered the Columbia River, there were already
twenty-one American ships in the Pacific northwest.
In May, 1799, the Boston brig Caroline, Captain Cleveland,
was buying furs in Sitka Sound, when coasting
along over from the north came the greatest of all the
Russians, Alexander von Baranof, with two ships and a
fleet of bidarkas.
"What now will you have?" demanded the Sitka
chief, as the expedition entered the basin of Sitka Sound.
"A place to build a fort and establish a settlement for
trade," answered Baranof.
"A Boston ship is anchored below and buying many
skins," answered the chief. But presents were distributed,
a trade was made, and Russian axes began felling
the virgin forest on the sides of Verstova.
The next day Captain Cleveland visited Baranof at his
fort building.
"Savages!" echoed Captain Cleveland to Baranof's
comment on the natives. "I should say so. I have but
ten men before the mast, but on account of the fierce
character of these Indians I have placed a screen of hides
around the ship, that they may not see the deck nor know
how few men I have. Two pieces of cannon are in position
and a pair of blunderbusses on the taffrail."
But the land was rich in furs. It was this that
brought Baranof over from Kadiak.
In three years Sitka was a strong fort, but in June,
1802, in the absence of Baranof, it was attacked one
day by a thousand Indians armed with muskets bought
of the Boston traders.
In a few hours the fort, a new ship in the harbour,
warehouses, cattle sheds, and a bathhouse were burnt
to ashes. The poor dumb cattle were stuck full of
lances.
A terrible massacre accompanied the burning. To
escape suffocation the Russians leaped from the flaming
windows only to be caught on the uplifted lances of the
savage Sitkas. Some escaped to the woods, when an
English vessel providentially appeared and carried the
few remaining survivors to Kadiak.
That autumn two new ships arrived from Russia with
hunters, labourers, provisions, and news of Baranof's promotion
by the czar.
Tears coursed down the great man's weather-beaten
cheeks. "I am a nobleman; but Sitka is lost! I do not
care to live; I will go and either die or restore the possessions
of my august benefactor."
Then back came Baranof to Sitka on his errand of
vengeance, with three hundred bidarkas and six small
Russian ships, to be almost wrecked in Sitka Sound.
Here he was joined by the Neva just out from Kronstadt,
the first to carry the Russian flag around the
world.
Upon the hill where Sitka stands to-day, the Indians
had built a fort of logs piled around with tangled brush.
On this the Russians opened fire. But no reply came.
With one hundred and fifty men and several guns, Baranof
landed in the dense woods to take the fort by storm.
Then burst the sheeted flame. Ten Russians were killed
and twenty-six wounded. But for the fleet, Baranof's
career would have ended on that day.
But in time ships with cannon were more than a match
for savages armed with Boston muskets. Far into the
night a savage chant was wafted into the air—the
Alaskans had surrendered. At daylight all was still.
No sound came from the shore, and when the Russians
visited the Indian hill, the fort was filled with slaughtered
bodies of infant children, slain by their own parents
who felt themselves unable to carry them and escape.
The Indian fort was immediately burned to the ground
and on its site arose the Russian stronghold of Sitka
Castle.
That new fort at Sitka was just finished and mounted
with cannon the summer that Lewis and Clark came
down the Columbia. Kitchen gardens were under cultivation
and live stock thriving.
At Sitka that same autumn the Elizaveta arrived, with
the Russian Imperial Inspector of Alaska on board, the
Baron von Rezanof, "Chamberlain of the Russian Court
and Commander of all America," he called himself.
"What is this I hear of those Bostonians?" inquired
the great Baron, unrolling long portraits of the Imperial
family to be hung in Sitka Castle. "Those Bostonians,
are they undermining our trade in furs with China?"
"Ah, yes," answered Count Baranof, "the American
republic is greatly in need of Chinese goods, Chinese
teas and silks, which formerly had to be purchased in
coin. But since these shores have been discovered with
their abundance of furs, they are no longer obliged to
take coin with them, but load their vessels with products
of their own country."
"All too numerous have become these Boston skippers
on this northwest coast," continued Von Rezanof in a
decisive tone. "Frequent complaints have been made to
the American President that his people are selling firearms
to our Indians, but all to no purpose. It is an outrage.
We are justified in using force. I recommend an
armed brig to patrol these waters."
Food supplies were low at Sitka that winter. No ship
came. The Elizaveta dispatched to Kadiak for supplies
returned no more. No flour, no fish, not even seal blubber
for the garrisons, could be caught or purchased. They
were eating crows and eagles and devil-fish. Just then,
when a hundred cannon were loaded to sweep the Yankee
skippers from the sea, a little Rhode Island ship came
sailing into Sitka harbour.
"Shall we expel these American traders from the
North Pacific?" demanded Von Rezanof.
"For the love of God, no!" cried Baranof. "That
little ship is our saviour!"
Into the starving garrison the Yankee Captain De
Wolf brought bread and beef, and raised the famine
siege of Sitka Castle. Baranof bought the little ship,
the Juno, with all her cargo, for eight thousand dollars
in furs and drafts on St. Petersburg. In addition Rezanof
gave De Wolf a sloop, the Ermak, to carry his men
and furs to the Hawaiian Islands.
"God grant that they may not have paid dear for their
rashness in trusting their lives to such a craft!" exclaimed
Von Rezanof, as the gallant Yankee Captain
spread sail and disappeared from Sitka harbour.
The Juno, a staunch, copper-bottomed fast vessel of
two hundred six tons, built at Bristol, Rhode Island, in
1799, was now fitted out for the Russian trade and dispatched
to Kadiak.
The storms that Lewis and Clark heard booming on
the Oregon coast that winter, devastated Alaskan shores
as well. When the breakers came thundering up the
rocks and the winds shook Sitka Castle, Count Baranof
in his stronghold could not sleep for thinking, "Oh, the
ships!—the ships out on this stormy deep, laden with
what I need so much!"
The little Juno returned from Kadiak with dried fish
and oil, and news of disaster: "The Elizaveta has been
wrecked in a heavy gale. Six large bidarkas laden with
furs on the way to you went down. Two hundred
hunters have perished at sea. Our settlement at Yakutat
has been destroyed by an Indian massacre."
"My God! My God!" Baranof cried, "how can we
repair all these disasters!"
But ever and ever the gray sea boomed upon the shore
where the wretched inmates of Sitka Castle were dying.
The relief from the Juno was only temporary. By February
not a pound of bread a day dared they distribute
to the men.
Long since Rezanof had declared they must have an
agricultural settlement. Now he fixed his eye on the
Columbia River. Sitting there in the dreary castle he
was writing to the czar, little dreaming that in a hundred
years his very inmost thought would be read in
America.
Starvation at Sitka was imminent,—it was impossible
to delay longer. Into the stormy sea Rezanof himself
set the Juno's sail on his way to the Columbia.
While Lewis and Clark were writing out the muster
roll to nail to the wall at Fort Clatsop for any passing
ship, Rezanof was striving to cross the Columbia bar.
None could see beyond the mists. Contrary winds blew,
it rained, it hailed.
Rezanof sighted the Columbia March 14, 1806, but
the current drove him back. Again on the 20th he tried
to enter, and on the 21st, but the stormy river, like a thing
of life, beat him back and beat him back, until the Russian
gave it up, and four days later ran into the harbour
of San Francisco.
In June he returned with wheat, oats, pease, beans,
flour, tallow, and salt to the famished traders at Sitka.
But notwithstanding all these troubles, in 1805-6 Baranof
dispatched to St. Petersburg furs valued at more
than five hundred thousand roubles.
More and more the Boston traders came back to
Alaskan waters. Baranof often found it easier to buy
supplies from Boston than from Okhotsk.
"Furnish me with Aleutian hunters and bidarkas
and I will hunt on shares for you," proposed a Boston
Captain.
"Agreed," said Baranof, and for years fleets of bidarkas
under Boston Captains hunted and trapped and traded
for sea otter southward along Pacific shores.
"These Boston smugglers and robbers!" muttered the
Spaniards of California. "Where do they hide themselves
all winter? We know they are on our shores but
never a glimpse can we get of their fleet." Meanwhile
the Boston traders on the coasts of California raked in
the skins and furs, and sailing around by Hawaii reached
Sitka in time for Spring sealing in the north.
Some hints of this reached the Russian Directory at St.
Petersburg, but no one dared to interfere with Baranof.
Shipload after shipload of furs he sent home that sold
for fabulous sums in the markets of Russia. The czar
himself took shares and the Imperial navy guarded the
Russias of North America.
All honour to Baranof, Viking of Sitka, and builder
of ships! For forty years he ruled the Northwest, the
greatest man in the North Pacific. His name was known
on the coast of Mexico, even to Brazil and Havana. The
Boston merchants consulted him in making up their cargoes.
In 1810 he went into partnership with John Jacob
Astor to exchange supplies for furs.
Above all disaster he rose, though ship after ship was
lost. But it must be admitted the Russians were not such
seamen as the gallant Boston skippers.
Never again will this land see more hardy sailors than
the American tars that travelled the seas at the close of our
Revolution. Our little Yankee brigs were creeping down
and down the coast and around the Horn, until every village
had its skippers in the far Pacific. Some went for
furs and some for whales, and all for bold adventure.
In July, 1806, the Lydia, having just rescued two
American sailors from the savages at Vancouver Island,
came into the Columbia River for a load of spars, the beginning
of a mighty commerce. Here they heard of Lewis
and Clark, and ten miles up, faithful old Chief Coboway
gave Captain Hill the muster roll left at Fort Clatsop.
This, sent by way of China, reached the United States
in 1807, to find the great explorers safe at home.
With the death of Baranof in 1819 ended the vast plan
of Russia to make the northern half of the Pacific its
own. Baranof was small and wrinkled and bald, but his
eye had life. He would have made a czar like Peter the
Great. To him and him alone was due the Russia of
America, that for seven million dollars was sold to us
in 1870, an empire in itself.
The canoes were loaded, and at one o'clock in the
afternoon of Sunday, the 23d day of March, 1806,
Lewis and Clark took final leave of Fort Clatsop.
Back past Cathlamet they came, where Queen Sally
still watched by her totem posts; past Oak Point on
Fanny's Island, named by Clark, where two Springs later
a Boston ship made the first white settlement in Oregon.
Slowly the little flotilla paddled up, past Coffin Rock,
immemorial deposit of Indian dead, past snowy St.
Helens, a landmark at sea for the ship that would enter
the harbour.
Flowers were everywhere, the hillsides aglow with red
flowering currants that made March as gay as the roses
of June. The grass was high, and the robins were
singing.
At sunset, March 30, they camped on a beautiful
prairie, the future site of historic Vancouver. Before
them the Columbia was a shimmer of silver. Behind,
rose the dim, dark Oregon forest. The sharp cry of the
sea-gull rang over the waters, and the dusky pelican and
the splendid brown albatross were sailing back to the
sea.
Herds of elk and deer roamed on the uplands and in
woody green islands below, where flocks of ducks, geese,
and swans were digging up the lily-like wapato with their
bills.
With laboured breath, still bending to the oar, on the
first of April they encountered a throng of Indians crowding
down from above, gaunt, hollow-eyed, almost starved,
greedily tarrying to pick up the bones and refuse meat
thrown from the camp of the whites.
"Katah mesika chaco?" inquired Captain Lewis.
"Halo muck-a-muck," answered the forlorn Indians.
"Dried fish all gone. No deer. No elk. No antelope
to the Nez Percé country." Hundreds were coming down
for food at Wapato. "Elip salmon chaco."
"Until the salmon come!" That had been the cry of
the Clatsops. The Chinooks were practising incantations
to bring the longed-for salmon. The Cathlamets were
spreading their nets. The Wahkiakums kept their boats
afloat. Even the Multnomahs were wistfully waiting.
And now here came plunging down all the upper country
for wapato,—"Until the salmon come."
"And pray, when will that be?"
"Not until the next full moon,"—at least the second
of May, and in May the Americans had hoped to cross
the mountains. All the camp deliberated,—and still the
Cascade Indians came flocking down into the lower
valley.
"We must remain here until we can collect meat
enough to last us to the Nez Percé nation," said the Captains,
and so, running the gauntlet of starvation, it happened
that Lewis and Clark camped for ten days near the
base of Mt. Hood at the river Sandy. In order to collect
as much meat as possible a dozen hunters were sent out;
the rest were employed in cutting and hanging the meat
to dry.
Two young Indians came into the camp at the Sandy.
"Kah mesika Illahee?—Where is your country?"
was asked them, in the Chinook jargon caught at Clatsop.
"At the Falls of a great river that flows into the
Columbia from the south."
"From the south? We saw no such river."
With a coal on a mat one of the Indians drew it. The
Captains looked.
"Ah! behind those islands!" It was where the Multnomah
chieftain in his war canoe had said, "Village
there!" on their downward journey to the sea. Clark
gave one of the men a burning glass to conduct him to
the spot, and set out with seven men in a canoe.
Along the south side of the Columbia, back they paddled
to the mysterious inlet hidden behind that emerald
curtain. And along with them paddled canoe-loads of
men, women, and children in search of food.
Clark now perceived that what they had called "Imagecanoe
Island" consisted of three islands, the one in the
middle concealing the opening between the other two.
Here great numbers of canoes were drawn up. Lifting
their long, slim boats to their backs, the Indian women
crossed inland to the sloughs and ponds, where, frightening
up the ducks, they plunged to the breast into the icy
cold water. There they stood for hours, loosening wapato
with their feet. The bulbs, rising to the surface, were
picked up and tossed into the boats to feed the hungry
children.
Clark entered an Indian house to buy wapato.
"Not, not!" with sullen look they shook their heads.
No gift of his could buy the precious wapato.
Deliberately then the captain took out one of Dr. Saugrain's
phosphorus matches and tossed it in the fire.
Instantly it spit and flamed.
"Me-sah-chie! Me-sah-chie!"—the Indians shrieked,
and piled the cherished wapato at his feet. The screaming
children fled behind the beds and hid behind the men.
An old man began to speak with great vehemence, imploring
his god for protection.
The match burned out and quiet was restored. Clark
paid for the wapato, smoked, and went on, behind the
islands.
As if lifting a veil the boat swept around the willows
and the Indian waved his hand.
"Multnomah!"
Before them, vast and deep, a river rolled its smooth
volume into the Columbia. At the same moment five
snow peaks burst into view,—Rainier, Hood, St. Helens,
Adams, and to the southeast another snowy cone which
Clark at once saluted, "Mount Jefferson!"
For the first recorded time a white man gazed on the
river Willamette.
This sudden vision of emerald hills, blue waters, and
snowy peaks forced the involuntary exclamation, "The
only spot west of the Rocky Mountains suitable for a
settlement!" The very air of domestic occupation
gleamed on the meadows flecked with deer and waterfall.
Amid the scattered groves of oak and dogwood, bursting
now into magnolian bloom, Clark half expected to see
some stately mansion rise, as in the park of some old
English nobleman. The ever-prevailing flowering currant
lit the landscape with a hue of roses.
A dozen miles or more Clark pressed on, up the great
inland river, and slept one night near the site of the
present Portland. He examined the soil, looked at the
timber, and measured a fallen fir three hundred and
eighteen feet as it lay.
Watching the current rolling its uniform flow from
some unknown distant source, the Captain began taking
soundings.
"This river appears to possess water enough for the
largest ship. Nor is it rash to believe that it may water
the country as far as California." For at least two-thirds
of the width he could find no bottom with his five-fathom
line.
Along that wide deep estuary, the grainships of the
world to-day ride up to the wharves of Portland. The
same snow peaks are there, the same emerald hills, and
the bounteous smile of Nature blushing in a thousand
orchards.
All along the shores were deserted solitary houses of
broad boards roofed with cedar bark, with household furniture,
stone mortars, pestles, canoes, mats, bladders of
train oil, baskets, bowls, trenchers—all left. The fireplaces
were filled with dead embers, the bunk-line tiers
of beds were empty. All had just gone or were going to
the fisheries.
"And where?"
"To Clackamas nation. Hyas tyee Tumwater. Great
Falls. Salmon."
Had Clark but passed a few miles further up, he would
have found hundreds of Indians at the fishing rendezvous,
Clackamas Rapids and Willamette Falls.
"How many of the Clackamas nation?"
"Eleven villages, to the snow peak."
"And beyond?"
"Forty villages, the Callapooias." With outstretched
hand the Indian closed his eyes and shook his head,—evidently
he had never been so far to the south.
Back around Warrior's Point Clark came, whence the
Multnomahs were wont to issue to battle in their huge
war canoes. An old Indian trail led up into the interior,
where for ages the lordly Multnomahs had held their
councils. Many houses had fallen entirely to ruin.
Clark inquired the cause of decay. An aged Indian
pointed to a woman deeply pitted with the smallpox.
"All died of that. Ahn-cutty! Long time ago!"
The Multnomahs lived on Wapato Island. A dozen
nations gave fealty to Multnomah. All had symbolic
totems, carved and painted on door and bedstead, and at
every bedhead hung a war club and a Moorish scimitar
of iron, thin and sharp, rude relic of Ko-na-pe's workshop.
Having now dried sufficient meat to last to the Nez
Percés, Lewis and Clark set out for the Dalles, that
tragical valley, racked and battered, where the devils
held their tourneys when the world was shaped by flood
and flame.
Through the sheeny brown basaltic rock, three rifts
let through the river, where, in fishing time, salmon
leaped in prodigious numbers, filling the Indians' baskets,
tons and tons a day. But the salmon had not yet come.
At this season the upper tribes came down to the Dalles
to traffic robes and silk grass for sea-shells and wapato.
Fish was money. After the traders came, beads, beads,
became the Indian's one ambition. For beads he would
sacrifice his only garment and his last morsel of food.
In this annual traffic of east and west, the Dalles Indians
had become traders, robbers, pirates. No canoe
passed that way without toll. Dressed in deerskin, elk,
bighorn, wolf, and buffalo, these savages lay now in wait
for Lewis and Clark, portaging up the long narrows.
Tugging, sweating, paddling, poling, pulling by cords,
it was difficult work hauling canoes up the narrow way.
Crowds of Indians pressed in.
"Six tomahawks and a knife are gone!"
"Another tomahawk gone!"
"Out of the road," commanded Lewis. "Whoever
steals shall be shot instantly."
The crowds fell back. Every man toiled on with gun
in hand. But from village to village, dishes, blankets,
and whatever the Indians could get their hands on, disappeared.
Soon there would be no baggage.
It seemed impossible to detect a thief. "Nothing but
numbers protects us," said the white men.
Worse even than the pirates of the Sioux, it came
almost to pitched battle. Again and again Lewis harangued
the chiefs for the restoration of stolen property.
Once he struck an Indian. Finally he set out to burn a
village, but the missing property came to light, hidden in
an Indian hut.
So long did it take to make these portages that food
supplies failed. In the heart of a thickly populated and
savage country the expedition was bankrupt.
With what gratitude, then, they met Yellept, chief of
the Walla Wallas, waiting upon his hills.
"Come to my village. You shall have food. You
shall have horses."
Gladly they accompanied him to his village at the
mouth of the Walla Walla river. Immediately he called
in not only his own but the neighbouring nations, urging
them to hospitality. Then Chief Yellept, the most notable
man in all that country, himself brought an armful of
wood for their fires and a platter of roasted mullets.
At once all the Walla Wallas followed with armloads
of fuel; the campfires blazed and crackled. Footsore,
weary, half-starved, Lewis and Clark and their men
supped and then slept.
Fortunately there was among the Walla Wallas a captive
Shoshone boy who spoke the tongue of Sacajawea.
In council the Captains explained themselves and the
object of their journey.
"Opposite our village a shorter route leads to the
Kooskooskee," said Yellept. "A road of grass and
water, with deer and antelope."
Clark computed that this cut-off would save eighty
miles.
In vain the Captains desired to press on.
"Wait," begged Yellept. "Wait." Already he had
sent invitations to the Eyakimas, his friends the Black
Bears, and to the Cayuses.
Possibly Sacajawea had hinted something; at any
rate with a cry of "Very Great Medicine," the lame, the
halt, the blind pressed around the camp. The number of
unfortunates, products of Indian battle, neglect, and exposure,
was prodigious.
Opening the medicine chest, while Lewis bought horses,
Clark turned physician, distributing eye-water, splinting
broken bones, dealing out pills and sulphur. One Indian
with a contracted knee came limping in.
"My own father, Walla Walla chief," says old Se-cho-wa,
an aged Indian woman on the Umatilla to-day.
"Lots of children, lots of horses. I, very little girl,
follow them."
With volatile liniments and rubbing the chief was
relieved.
In gratitude Yellept presented Clark with a beautiful
white horse; Clark in turn gave all he had—his sword.
Bidding the chief adieu, the Captains recorded: "We
may, indeed, justly affirm, that of all the Indians whom
we have met since leaving the United States the Walla
Wallas were the most hospitable and sincere."
Poor old Yellept! One hundred years later his medal
was found in the sand at the mouth of the Walla Walla.
All his sons were slain in battle or died of disease. When
the last one lay stretched in the grave, the old chief stepped
in upon the corpse and commanded his people to bury
them in one grave together.
"On account of his great sorrow," says old Se-cho-wa.
And so he was buried.
As Lewis and Clark with twenty-three horses set
out over the camas meadows that April morning
a hundred years ago, the world seemed brighter
for the kindness of the Walla Wallas.
At the Dalles the forest had ended. Now they were
on the great Columbian plains that stretch to the Rockies,
the northwest granary of to-day. The dry exhilarating
air billowed the verdure like a sea.
Meadow larks sang and flitted. Dove-coloured sage
hens, the cock of the plains, two-thirds the size of a
turkey, cackled like domestic fowl before the advancing
cavalcade. Spotted black-and-white pheasants pecked
in the grass like the little topknot "Dominicks" the
men had known around their boyhood homes.
And everywhere were horses.
"More hor-r-ses between th' Gr-reat Falls av th'
Columby and th' Nez Percés than I iver saw in th' same
space uv countery in me loife before," said Patrick Gass.
"They are not th' lar-r-gest soize but very good an'
active."
"Of an excellent race, lofty, elegantly formed, and
durable," those Cayuse horses are described by Lewis
and Clark. "Many of them appear like fine English
coursers, and resemble in fleetness and bottom, as well as
in form and colour, the best blooded horses of Virginia."
A hundred years ago, the Cayuse of the Columbian
plains was a recent importation from the bluest blooded
Arabian stock of Spain. White-starred, white-footed,
he was of noble pedigree. Traded or stolen from tribe
to tribe, these Spanish horses found a home on the Columbia.
All winter these wild horses fattened on the
plain; madly their Indian owners rode them; and when
they grew old, stiff, and blind, they went, so the Indians
said, to Horse Heaven on the Des Chutes to die.
Following the old Nez Percés trail, that became a
stage road in the days of gold, and then a railroad,
Lewis and Clark came to the land of the Nez Percés,—Chopunnish.
Thirty-one years later the missionary Spalding planted
an apple-tree where Lewis and Clark reached the Snake
at the mouth of Alpowa creek, May 4, 1806.
We-ark-koompt, the Indian express, came out to meet
them. Over the camp of Black Eagle the American flag
was flying. Chiefs vied with one another to do them
honour. Tunnachemootoolt, Black Eagle, spread his
leather tent and laid a parcel of wood at the door.
"Make this your lodge while you remain with me."
Hohastilpilp, Red Wolf, came riding over the hills with
fifty people.
The Captains had a fire lighted, and all night in the
leather tent on the banks of the Kooskooske the chiefs
smoked and pondered on the journey of the white men.
Lewis and Clark drew maps and pointed out the far-away
land of the President. Sacajawea and the Shoshone
boy interpreted until worn out, and then fell asleep.
And ever within Black Eagle's village was heard the dull
"thud, thud, thud," of Nez Percé women pounding the
camas and the kouse, "with noise like a nail-factory,"
said Lewis. All night long their outdoor ovens were
baking the bread of kouse, and the kettles of camas mush,
flavoured with yamp, simmered and sweetened over the
dull red Indian fires. The hungry men were not disposed
to criticise the cuisine of the savage, not even when
they were offered the dainty flesh of dried rattlesnake!
Labiche killed a bear. In amazement the redmen gathered
round.
"These bears are tremendous animals to the Indians,—kill
all you can," said Captain Lewis. Elated, every
hunter went bear-hunting.
"Wonderful men that live on bears!" exclaimed the
Indians.
Again the council was renewed, and they talked of
wars. Bloody Chief, fond of war, showed wounds received
in battle with the Snakes.
"It is not good," said Clark. "It is better to be at
peace. Here is a white flag. When you hold it up it
means peace. We have given such flags to your enemies,
the Shoshones. They will not fight you now."
Fifty years later, that chief, tottering to his grave, said,
"I held that flag. I held it up high. We met and talked,
but never fought again."
"We have confided in the white men. We shall follow
their advice," Black Eagle went proclaiming through the
village.
All the kettles of soup were boiling. From kettle to
kettle Black Eagle sprinkled in the flour of kouse. "We
have confided in the white men. Those who are
to ratify this council, come and eat. All others stay
away."
The mush was done, the feast was served; a new dawn
had arisen on the Nez Percés.
Finding it impossible to cross the mountains, a camp
was established at Kamiah Creek, on a part of the present
Nez Percé reservation in Idaho county, Idaho, where
for a month they studied this amiable and gentle people.
Games were played and races run, Coalter outspeeding
all. Frazer, who had been a fencing master in Rutland,
back in Vermont, taught tricks, and the music of the fiddles
delighted them.
Stout, portly, good-looking men were the Nez Percés,
and better dressed than most savages, in their whitened
tunics and leggings of deerskin and buffalo, moccasins
and robes and breastplates of otter, and bandeaus of fox-skins
like a turban on the brow. The women were small,
of good features and generally handsome, in neatly woven
tight-fitting grass caps and long buckskin skirts whitened
with clay.
Upon the Missouri the eagle was domesticated. Here,
too, the Nez Percé had his wicker coop of young eaglets
to raise for their tail feathers. Any Rocky Mountain
Indian would give a good horse for the black-and-white
tail feather of a golden eagle. They fluttered from the
calumet and hung in cascades from head to foot on the
sacred war bonnet.
A May snowstorm whitened the camas meadows and
melted again. Thick black loam invited the plough, but
thirty Springs should pass before Spalding established
his mission and gave ploughs to the redmen. Twisted
Hair saw the advent of civilisation. Red Wolf planted
an orchard. Black Eagle went to see Clark at St. Louis
and died there.
Captain Lewis held councils, instructing, educating,
enlightening the Kamiahs, so that to this day they are
among the most advanced of Indian tribes.
Captain Clark, with simple remedies and some knowledge
of medicine, became a mighty "tomanowos" among
the ailing. With basilicons of pitch and oil, wax and
resins, a sovereign remedy for skin eruptions, with horse-mint
teas and doses of sulphur and cream-of-tartar, with
eye-water, laudanum, and liniment, he treated all sorts
of ills. Fifty patients a day crowded to the tent of the
Red Head. Women suffering from rheumatism, the result
of toil and exposure in the damp camas fields, came
dejected and hysterical. They went back shouting, "The
Red Head chief has made me well."
The wife of a chief had an abscess. Clark lanced it,
and she slept for the first time in days. The grateful
chief brought him a horse that was immediately slaughtered
for supper. A father gave a horse in exchange for
remedies for his little crippled daughter.
With exposure to winds, alkali sand, and the smoke
of chimneyless fires, few Indians survived to old age
without blindness.
"Eye-water! Eye-water!" They reached for it as
for a gift from the gods. Clark understood such eyes,
for the smoke of the pioneer cabin had made affections
of the eye a curse of the frontier.
But affairs were now at their lowest. Even the medicines
were exhausted, and the last awl, needle, and skein
of thread had gone. Off their shabby old United States
uniforms the soldiers cut the last buttons to trade for
bread. But instead of trinkets the sensible Nez Percés
desired knives, buttons, awls for making moccasins,
blankets, kettles. Shields the gunsmith ingeniously
hammered links of Drouillard's trap into awls to exchange
for bread.
The tireless hunters scoured the country. Farther and
farther had scattered the game. Even the bears had departed.
Thirty-three people ate a deer and an elk, or
four deer a day. There was no commissariat for this
little army but its own rifles. And yet, supplies must
be laid in for crossing the mountains.
Every day Captain Lewis looked at the rising river
and the melting snows of the Idaho Alps.
"That icy barrier, which separates me from my friends
and my country, from all which makes life estimable—patience—patience—"
"The snow is yet deep on the mountains. You will
not be able to pass them until the next full moon, or about
the first of June," said the Indians.
"Unwelcome intelligence to men confined to a diet of
horse meat and roots!" exclaimed Captain Lewis.
Finally even horse-flesh failed. Suspecting the situation,
Chief Red Wolf came and said, "The horses on
these hills are ours. Take what you need."
He wore a tippet of human scalps, but, says Lewis,
"we have, indeed, on more than one occasion, had to
admire the generosity of this Indian, whose conduct presents
a model of what is due to strangers in distress."
Gradually the snows melted, and the high water
subsided.
"The doves are cooing. The salmon will come," said
the Indians. Blue flowers of the blooming camas covered
the prairies like a lake of silver. With sixty-five
horses and all the dried horse meat they could carry, on
June 16, 1806, Lewis and Clark started back over the
Bitter Root Range on the Lolo trail by which they had
entered.
Dog-tooth violets, roses, and strawberry blossoms
covered the plain of Weippe without end,
but the Lolo trail was deep with snow. Deep and
deeper grew the drifts, twelve and fifteen feet. The air
was keen and cold with winter rigours. To go on in
those grassless valleys meant certain death to all their
horses, and so, for the first time, they fell back to wait
yet other days for the snows to melt upon the mountains.
"We must have experienced guides." Drouillard and
Shannon were dispatched once more to the old camp,
and lo! the salmon had come, in schools and shoals, reddening
the Kooskooskee with their flickering fins.
Again they faced the snowy barrier with guides who
traversed the trackless region with instinctive sureness.
"They never hesitate," said Lewis. "They are never
embarrassed. So undeviating is their step that whenever
the snow has disappeared, even for a hundred paces, we
find the summer road."
Up in the Bitter Root peaks, like the chamois of the
Alps, the Oregon mazama, the mountain goat, frolicked
amid inaccessible rocks. And there, in the snows of the
mountain pass, most significant of all, were found the
tracks of barefooted Indians, supposed to have been Flatheads,
fleeing in distress from pursuing Blackfeet. Such
was the battle of primitive man.
The Indians regarded the journey of the white men
into the country of their hereditary foes as a venture to
certain death.
"Danger!" whispered the guides, significantly rapping
on their heads, drawing their knives across their
throats, and pointing far ahead.
Every year the Nez Percés followed the Lolo trail,
stony and steep and ridgy with rocks and crossed with
fallen trees, into the Buffalo Illahee, the buffalo country
of the Missouri. And for this the Blackfeet fought them.
The Blackfeet, too, had been from time immemorial
the deadly foe of the Flatheads, their bone of contention
for ever the buffalo. The Blackfeet claimed as their own
all the country lying east of the main range, and looked
upon the Flatheads who went there to hunt as intruders.
The Flathead country was west and at the base of the
main Rockies, along the Missoula and Clark's Fork and
northward to the Fraser. With their sole weapon, the
arrow, and their own undaunted audacity, twice a year
occurred the buffalo chase, once in Summer and once in
Winter. But "the ungodly Blackfeet," scourge of the
mountains, lay in wait to trap and destroy the Flatheads
as they would a herd of buffalo.
And so it had been war, bitter war, for ages. But a
new force had given to the Blackfeet at the west and
the Sioux at the east supremacy over the rest of the tribes,—that
was the white man's gun from the British forts
on the Saskatchewan.
For spoils and scalps the Blackfeet, Arabs of the
North, raided from the Saskatchewan to Mexico. They
besieged Fort Edmonton at the north, and left their tomahawk
mark on the Digger Indian's grave at the south.
The Shoshone-Snakes, too, were immemorial and implacable
enemies of both the Blackfeet and the Columbia
tribes. They fought to the Dalles and Walla Walla and
up through the Nez Percés to Spokane. Their mad
raiders threw up the dust of the Utah desert, and chased
the lone Aztec to his last refuge in Arizona cliffs.
The Blackfeet fought the Shoshones, the Crows, by
superior cunning, fought the Blackfeet, the Assiniboines
fought the Crows, and the Sioux, the lordly Sioux,
fought all.
It was time for the white man's hand to stay the diabolical
dance of death.
On the third of July, at the mouth of Lolo creek,
the expedition separated, Lewis to cross to the
Falls of the Missouri and explore Marias River,
Clark to come to the three forks and cross to the Yellowstone.
With nine men and five Indians Captain Lewis crossed
the Missoula on a raft, and following the Nez Percé
trail along the River-of-the-Road-to-Buffalo, the Big
Blackfoot of to-day, came out July 7, the first of white
men, on the opening through the main range of the
Rockies now known as the Lewis and Clark Pass. A
Blackfoot road led down to the churning waters of the
Great Falls.
Pawing, fighting, ten thousand buffaloes were bellowing
in one continuous roar that terrified the horses. The
plain was black with a vast and angry army, bearing
away to the southwest, flinging the dust like a simoom,
through which deep-mouthed clangor rolled like thunder
far away. And at their immediate feet, Drouillard noted
fresh tracks of Indians dotting the soil; grizzly bears,
grim guardians of the cataract, emitted hollow growls,
and great gray wolves hung in packs and droves along
the skirts of the buffalo herds, glancing now and then
toward the little group of horsemen.
In very defiance of danger, again Lewis pitched his
camp beside the Falls, green and foamy as Niagara.
Again buffalo meat, marrow bones, ribs, steaks, juicy
and rich, sizzled around the blaze, and the hungry men
ate, ate, ate. They had found the two extremes—want
on one side of the mountains and abundance on the
other.
While Lewis tried to write in his journal, huge brown
mosquitoes, savage as the bears, bit and buzzed. Lewis's
dog howled with the torture, the same little Assiniboine
dog that had followed all their footsteps, had guarded
and hunted as well as the best, had slept by the fire at
Clatsop and been stolen at the Dalles.
Hurrying to their cache at the Bear Islands, it was
discovered that high water had flooded their skins and
the precious specimens of plants were soaked and ruined.
A bottle of laudanum had spoiled a chestful of medicine.
But the charts of the Missouri remained uninjured, and
trunks, boxes, carriage wheels, and blunderbuss were all
right.
"Transport the baggage around the Falls and wait
for me at the mouth of Maria's River to the first of September,"
said Captain Lewis, setting out with Drouillard
and the Fields boys. "If by that time I am not there, go
on and join Captain Clark and return home. But if my
life and health are spared, I shall meet you on the 5th of
August."
It was not without misgivings that Sergeant Gass and
his comrades saw the gallant Captain depart into the
hostile Blackfoot country. With only three men at his
back it was a daring venture. Already the five Nez
Percés, fearful of their foes, had dropped off to seek their
friends the Flatheads. In vain Lewis had promised to
intercede and make peace between the tribes. Their
terror of the Blackfeet surpassed their confidence in white
men.
"Look!"
On the second day out Drouillard suddenly pointed,
and leaning far over on his horse, examined a trail that
would have escaped an eye less keen than his. "Blackfeet!"
the vicious and profligate rovers that of all it was
most desirable not to meet!
Hastily crossing the Teton into a thick wood, the party
camped that night unmolested.
On the eighth day Captain Lewis suddenly spied several
Indians on a hilltop intently watching Drouillard in the
valley. Thirty horses, some led, some saddled, stood like
silhouettes against the sky. Kneeling they scanned the
movements of the unconscious hunter below.
"Escape is impossible. We must make the most of
our situation. If they attempt to rob us, we will resist to
the last extremity. I would rather die than lose my
papers and instruments."
Boldly advancing with a flag in his hand, followed by
the two Fields brothers, Lewis drew quite near before
the Indians perceived these other white men. Terrified,
they ran about in confusion. Evidently with them a
stranger meant a foe.
Captain Lewis dismounted, and held out his hand.
Slowly the chief Blackfoot approached, then wheeled
in flight. At last, with extreme caution, the two parties
met and shook hands. Lewis gave to one a flag, to another
a medal, to a third a handkerchief. The tumultuous
beating of the Indians' hearts could almost be heard.
There proved to be but eight of them, armed with two
guns, bows, arrows, and eye-daggs, a sort of war-hatchet.
"I am glad to see you," said Lewis. "I have much
to say. Let us camp together."
The Indians assented and set up their semi-circular
tent by the willows of the river. Here Drouillard, the
hunter, skilled in the sign language of redmen, drew
out their story.
Yes, they knew white men. They traded on the Saskatchewan
six days' march away.
Yes, there were more of them, two large bands, on the
forks of this river, a day above.
What did they trade at the Saskatchewan? Skins,
wolves, and beaver, for guns and ammunition.
Then Lewis talked. He came from the rising sun.
He had been to the great lake at the west. He had seen
many nations at war and had made peace. He had
stopped to make peace between the Blackfeet and the
Flatheads.
"We are anxious for peace with the Flatheads. But
those people have lately killed a number of our relatives
and we are in mourning."
Yes, they would come down and trade with Lewis if
he built a fort at Maria's River.
Until a late hour they smoked, then slept. Lewis and
Drouillard lay down and slept with the Indians, while
the two Fields boys kept guard by the fire at the door of
the tent.
"Let go my gun."
It was the voice of Drouillard in the half-light of the
tent at sunrise struggling with a Blackfoot. With a start
Lewis awoke and reached for his gun. It was gone. The
deft thieves had all but disarmed the entire party.
Chase followed. In the scuffle for his gun, Reuben
Fields stabbed a Blackfoot to the heart.
No sooner were the guns recovered than the horses
were gone. "Leave the horses or I will shoot," shouted
Lewis, chasing out of breath to a steep notch in the river
bluffs. Madly the Indians were tearing away with the
horses. Lewis fired and killed a Blackfoot. Bareheaded,
the Captain felt a returning bullet whistle through his
hair, but the Indians dropped the horses, and away went
swimming across the Marias.
Delay meant death. Quickly saddling their horses,
Lewis and his men made for the Missouri as fast as possible,
hearing at every step in imagination the pursuing
"hoo-oh! whoop-ah-hooh!" that was destined to make
Marias River the scene of many a bloody massacre by the
vengeful Blackfeet.
Expecting interception at the mouth of Marias River,
the white men rode with desperation to form a junction
with their friends. All day, all night they galloped, until,
exhausted, they halted at two o'clock in the morning to
rest their flagging horses.
That forenoon, having ridden one hundred and twenty
miles since the skirmish, they reached the mouth of
Marias River, just in time to see Sergeant Gass, the fleet
of canoes, and all, descending from above. Leaping from
their horses, they took to the boats, and soon left the spot,
seventy, eighty, a hundred miles a day, down the swift
Missouri.
As Lewis turned north toward Marias River, Clark
with the rest of the party and fifty horses set his
face along the Bitter Root Valley toward the
south. Every step he trod became historic ground in
the romance of settlement, wars, and gold. Into this
Bitter Root Valley were to come the first white settlers
of Montana, and upon them, through the Hell Gate Pass
of the Rockies, above the present Missoula, were to sweep
again and again the bloodthirsty Blackfeet.
"It is as safe to enter the gates of hell as to enter that
pass," said the old trappers and traders.
More and more beautiful became the valley, pink as a
rose with the delicate bloom of the bitter-root, the Mayflower
of Montana. Here for ages the patient Flatheads
had dug and dried their favourite root until the whole
valley was a garden.
As Clark's cavalcade wound through this vale, deer
flitted before the riders, multitudinous mountain streams
leaped across their way, herds of bighorns played around
the snowbanks on the heights. Across an intervening
ridge the train descended into Ross Hole, where first
they met the Flatheads. There were signs of recent
occupation; a fire was still burning; but the Flatheads
were gone.
Out of Ross Hole Sacajawea pointed the way by
Clark's Pass, over the Continental Divide, to the Big
Hole River where the trail disappeared or scattered. But
Sacajawea knew the spot. "Here my people gather the
kouse and the camas; here we take the beaver; and
yonder, see, a door in the mountains."
On her little pony, with her baby on her back, the
placid Indian girl led the way into the labyrinthine
Rockies.
Clark followed, descending into the beautiful Big Hole
prairie, where in 1877 a great battle was to be fought
with Chief Joseph, exactly one hundred years after the
1777 troubles, when George Rogers Clark laid before
Patrick Henry his plan for the capture of Illinois. Out
of the Big Hole, Chief Joseph was to escape with his
women, his children, and his dead, to be chased a thousand
miles over the very summit of the Rockies!
Standing there on the field of future battle, "Onward!"
still urged Sacajawea, "the gap there leads to
your canoes!" The Bird Woman knew these highlands,—they
were her native hills. As Sacajawea fell back,
the men turned their horses at a gallop.
Almost could they count the milestones now, down
Willard creek, where first paying gold was discovered in
Montana, past Shoshone cove, over the future site of
Bannock to the Jefferson.
Scarcely taking the saddles from their steeds, the eager
men ran to open the cache hid from the Shoshones. To
those who so long had practised self-denial it meant
food, clothing, merchandise—an Indian ship in the
wild. Everything was safe, goods, canoes, tobacco. In
a trice the long-unused pipes were smoking with the
weed of old Virginia.
"Better than any Injun red-willer k'nick-er-k'nick!"
said Coalter, the hunter.
Leaving Sergeant Pryor with six men to bring on the
horses, Captain Clark and the rest embarked in the
canoes, and were soon gliding down the emerald Jefferson,
along whose banks for sixty years no change
should come.
Impetuous mountain streams, calmed to the placid
pool of the beaver dam, widened into lakes and marshes.
Beaver, otter, musk-rats innumerable basked along the
shore. Around the boats all night the disturbed denizens
flapped the water with their tails,—angry at the
invasion of their solitude.
At the Three Forks, Clark's pony train remounted
for the Yellowstone, prancing and curveting along the
beaver-populated dells of the Gallatin.
Before them arose, bewildering, peak on peak, but
again the Bird Woman, Sacajawea, pointed out the Yellowstone
Gap, the Bozeman Pass of to-day, on the great
Shoshone highway. Many a summer had Sacajawea,
child of elfin locks, ridden on the trailing travoises
through this familiar gateway into the buffalo haunts of
Yellowstone Park.
Slowly Clark and his expectant cavalcade mounted the
Pass, where for ages the buffalo and the Indian alone had
trod. As they reached the summit, the glorious Yellowstone
Alps burst on their view. At their feet a rivulet,
born on the mountain top, leaped away, bright and clear,
over its gravelly bed to the Yellowstone in the plains
below.
It was the brother of George Rogers Clark that stood
there, one to the manner born of riding great rivers or
breaking through mountain chains. But thirty years had
elapsed since that elder brother and Daniel Boone had
threaded the Cumberland Gap of the Alleghanies. The
highways of the buffalo became the highways of the
nation.
"It is no more than eighteen miles," said Clark, glancing
back from the high snowy gap, half piercing, half
surmounting the dividing ridge between the Missouri
and the Yellowstone, so nearly do their headwaters interlock.
In coming up this pass, Clark's party went
through the present city limits of Bozeman, the county
seat of Gallatin, and over the route of future Indians,
trappers, miners, road builders, and last and greatest
of all, armies of permanent occupation that are marching
still to the valleys of fertile Montana. Up the
shining Yellowstone, over the Belt range, through the
tunnel to Bozeman, the iron horse flits to-day, on, westerly
one hundred miles to Helena, almost in the exact
footsteps trodden by the heroic youth of one hundred
years ago.
Among the cottonwood groves of the Yellowstone,
Clark's men quickly fashioned a pair of dugouts, lashed
together with rawhide; and in these frail barks, twenty-eight
feet long, the Captain and party embarked, leaving
Sergeant Pryor, Shannon, Windsor, and Hall to
bring on the horses. All manner of trouble Pryor had
with those horses. Lame from continual travel, he made
moccasins for their feet. They were buffalo runners,
trained for the hunt. At sight of the Yellowstone herds
away they flew, to chase in the old wild Indian fashion
of their red masters. No sooner had Pryor rounded them
up and brought them back than they disappeared utterly,—stolen
by the Crows. Not one of the entire fifty horses
was ever recovered.
Here was a serious predicament. Down the impetuous
Yellowstone Clark's boats had already gone. Alone
in the heart of the buffalo country these four men were
left, thousands of miles from the haunts of civilised man.
"We must join Captain Clark at all hazards. We
must improvise boats," said Shannon.
Sergeant Pryor recalled the Welsh coracles of the
Mandans. "Can we make one?"
Long slim saplings were bent to form a hoop for the
rim, another hoop held by cross-sticks served for the
bottom. Over this rude basket green buffalo hides
were tightly drawn, and in these frail craft they took
to the water, close in the wake of their unconscious
Captain.
And meanwhile Clark was gliding down the Yellowstone.
On either bank buffaloes dotted the landscape,
under the shade of trees and standing in the water like
cattle, or browsing on a thousand hills. Gangs of stately
elk, light troops of sprightly antelopes, fleet and graceful
as the gazelle of Oriental song, deer of slim elastic
beauty, and even bighorns that could be shot from the
boat. Sometimes were heard the booming subterranean
geysers hidden in the hollows of the mountains, but none
in the party yet conceived of the wonders of Yellowstone
Park that Coalter came back to discover that same
Autumn.
One day Clark landed to examine a remarkable rock.
Its sides were carved with Indian figures, and a cairn
was heaped upon the summit. Stirred by he knew not
what impulse, Clark named it Pompey's Pillar, and
carved his name upon the yielding sandstone, where his
bold lettering is visible yet to-day.
More and more distant each day grew the Rockies,
etched fainter each night on the dim horizon of the west.
More and more numerous grew the buffaloes, delaying
the boats with their countless herds stampeding across the
Yellowstone. For an hour one day the boats waited,
the wide river blackened by their backs, and before night
two other herds, as numerous as the first, came beating
across the yellow-brown tide.
But more than buffaloes held sway on the magic Yellowstone.
Wrapped in their worn-out blankets the men
could not sleep for the scourge of mosquitoes; they could
not sight their rifles for the clouds of moving, whizzing,
buzzing, biting insects. Even the buffalo were stifled by
them in their nostrils.
Nine hundred miles now had they come down the Yellowstone,
to its junction with the Missouri half a mile
east of the Montana border, but no sign yet had they
found of Lewis. Clark wrote on the sand, "W. C. A
few miles further down on the right hand side."
August 8, Sergeant Pryor and his companions appeared
in their little skin tubs. Four days later, there
was a shout and waving of caps,—the boats of Captain
Lewis came in sight at noon. But a moment later
every cheek blanched with alarm.
"Where is Captain Lewis?" demanded Clark, running
forward.
There in the bottom of a canoe, Lewis lay as one dead,
pale but smiling. He had been shot. With the gentleness
of a brother Clark lifted him up, and they carried
him to camp.
"A mistake,—an accident,—'tis nothing," he whispered.
And then the story leaked out. Cruzatte, one-eyed,
near-sighted, mistaking Lewis in his dress of brown
leather for an elk, had shot him through the thigh. With
the assistance of Patrick Gass, Lewis had dressed the
wound himself. On account of great pain and high
fever he slept that night in the boat. And now the party
were happily reunited.
In the distance there was a gleam of coloured blankets
where the beehive huts of the Mandan village lay. A
firing of guns and the blunderbuss brought Black Cat
to the boats.
"Come and eat." And with the dignity of an old
Roman, the chief extended his hand.
"Come and eat," was the watchword of every chieftain
on the Missouri. Even the Sioux said, "Come and eat!"
Hospitable as Arabs, they spread the buffalo robe and
brought the pipe. While the officers talked with the
master of the lodge, the silent painstaking squaws put
the kettles on the fire, and slaughtered the fatted dog for
the honoured guests.
"How many chiefs will accompany us to Washington?"
That was the first inquiry of the business-pushing
white men. Through Jussaume the Indians answered.
"I would go," said the Black Cat, "but de Sioux—"
"De Sioux will certainly kill us," said Le Borgne of
the Minnetarees. "Dey are waiting now to intercept
you on de river. Dey will cut you off."
"We stay at home. We listen to your counsel," piped
up Little Cherry. "But dey haf stolen our horses. Dey
haf scalp our people."
"We must fight to protect ourselves," added the Black
Cat. "We live in peace wit' all nation—'cept de
Sioux!"
In vain Captain Clark endeavoured to quiet their apprehensions.
"We shall not suffer the Sioux to injure
one of our red children."
"I pledge my government that a company of armed
men shall guard you on your return," added Lewis.
At this point Jussaume reported that Shahaka, or Big
White, in his wish to see the President, had overcome his
fears. He would go to Washington.
Six feet tall, of magnificent presence, with hair white
and coarse as a horse's mane, Shahaka, of all the chiefs,
was the one to carry to the States the tradition of a white
admixture in the Mandan blood. "The handsomest
Injun I iver saw," said Patrick Gass.
Arrangements for departure were now made as rapidly
as possible. Presents of corn, beans, and squashes, more
than all the boats could carry, were piled around the white
men's camp.
The blacksmith's tools were intrusted to Charboneau
for the use of the Mandans. The blunderbuss, given to
the Minnetarees, was rolled away to their village with
great exultation.
"Now let the Sioux come!" It was a challenge and
a refuge.
The iron corn mill was nowhere to be seen. For
scarcely had Lewis and Clark turned their backs for the
upper Missouri before it had been broken into bits to barb
the Indian arrows.
Sacajawea looked wistfully. She, too, would like to
visit the white man's country.
"We will take you and your wife down if you choose
to go," said Captain Clark to Charboneau.
"I haf no acquaintance, no prospect to mak' a leeving
dere," answered the interpreter. "I mus' leeve as I haf
done."
"I will take your son and have him educated as a white
child should be," continued the Captain.
Charboneau and Sacajawea looked at one another and
at their beautiful boy now nineteen months old, prattling
in their midst.
"We would be weeling eef de child were weaned,"
slowly spake Charboneau. "Een wan year, he be ole
enough to leaf he moder. I den tak' eem to you eef you
be so friendly to raise eem as you t'ink proper."
"Bring him to me in one year. I will take the child,"
said Captain Clark.
Captain Lewis paid Charboneau five hundred dollars,
loaded Sacajawea with what gifts he could, and left them
in the Mandan country.
All was now ready for the descent to St. Louis. The
boats, lashed together in pairs, were at the shore. Big
White was surrounded by his friends, seated in a circle,
solemnly smoking. The women wept aloud; the little
children trembled and hid behind their mothers.
More courageous than any, Shahaka immediately sent
his wife and son with their baggage on board. The interpreter,
Jussaume, with his wife and two children, accompanied
them. Yes, Madame Jussaume was going to
Washington!
Sacajawea, modest princess of the Shoshones, heroine
of the great expedition, stood with her babe in arms
and smiled upon them from the shore. So had she
stood in the Rocky Mountains pointing out the gates.
So had she followed the great rivers, navigating the
continent.
Sacajawea's hair was neatly braided, her nose was
fine and straight, and her skin pure copper like the statue
in some old Florentine gallery. Madonna of her race,
she had led the way to a new time. To the hands of this
girl, not yet eighteen, had been intrusted the key that
unlocked the road to Asia.
Some day upon the Bozeman Pass, Sacajawea's statue
will stand beside that of Clark. Some day, where the
rivers part, her laurels will vie with those of Lewis.
Across North America a Shoshone Indian Princess
touched hands with Jefferson, opening her country.
All the chiefs had gathered to see the boats start.
"Stay but one moment," they said.
Clark stepped back. Black Cat handed him a pipe, as
if for benediction. The solemn smoke-wreaths soon
rolled upward.
"Tell our Great Fader de young men will remain at
home and not mak' war on any people, except in self-defence."
"Tell de Rickara to come and visit. We mean no
harm."
"Tak' good care dis chief. He will bring word from
de Great Fader."
It was a promise and a prayer. Strong chiefs turned
away with misgiving and trepidation as they saw Shahaka
depart with the white men.
Dropping below their old winter quarters at Fort Mandan,
Lewis and Clark saw but a row of pickets left. The
houses lay in ashes, destroyed by an accidental fire. All
were there for the homeward pull but Coalter. He had
gone back with Hancock and Dickson, two adventurers
from Boone's settlement, to discover the Yellowstone
Park.
On the fourth day out three Frenchmen were met approaching
the Mandan nation with the message,—
"Seven hundert Sioux haf pass de Rickara to mak'
war on de Mandan an' Minnetaree." Fortunately, Shahaka
did not understand, and no one told him.
The Arikara village greeted the passing boats. Lewis,
still lame, requested Clark to go up to the village. Like
children confessing their misdeeds the Arikaras began:
"We cannot keep the peace! Our young men follow
the Sioux!"
The wild Cheyennes, with their dogs and horses and
handsome leathern lodges, were here on a trading visit,
to exchange with the Arikaras meat and robes for corn
and beans. They were a noble race, of straight limbs
and Roman noses, unaccustomed to the whites, shy and
cautious.
"We war against none but the Sioux, with whom we
have battled for ever," they said.
Everywhere there was weeping and mourning. "My
son, my son, he has been slain by the Sioux!"
Between the lands of the warring nations surged seas
of buffalo, where to-day are the waving bonanza wheat
fields of North Dakota.
From an eminence Clark looked over the prairies.
"More buffalo than ever I have seen before at one time,"—and
he had seen many. "If it be not impossible to
calculate the moving multitude that darkens the plains,
twenty thousand would be no exaggerated estimate."
They were now well into the country of the great
Sioux Indian Confederacy. Arms and ammunition were
inspected.
The sharp air thrilled and filled them with new vigour.
No wonder the Sioux were never still. The ozone of
the Arctic was in their veins, the sweeping winds drove
them, the balsamic prairie was their bed, the sky their
canopy. They never shut themselves up in stuffy mud
huts, as did the Mandans; they lived in tents. Unrestrained,
unregenerate, there was in them the fire of the
Six Nations, of King Philip and of Pontiac. Tall, handsome,
finely formed, agile, revengeful, intelligent, capable,—they
loved their country and they hated strangers.
So did the Greeks. An effeminate nation would have
fallen before them as did the Roman before the Goth, but
in the Anglo-Saxon they met their master.
"Whoop-ah-ho-o-oh!"
As anticipated, Black Buffalo and his pirate band were
on the hills. Whether that fierce cry meant defiance or
greeting no man could tell.
"Whoop-ah-ho-o-oh!"
The whole band rushed down to the shore, and even
out into the water, shouting invitations to land, and
waving from the sand-banks.
But too fresh in memory was the attempt to carry off
Captain Clark. Jubilant, hopeful, and full of the fire of
battle as the white men were, yet no one wished to test
the prowess of the Sioux.
Unwilling to venture an interview, the boats continued
on their way. Black Buffalo shook his war bonnet defiantly,
and returning to the hill smote the earth three times
with the butt of his rifle, the registration of a mighty oath
against the whites.
Leaving behind them a wild brandishing of bows,
arrows, and tomahawks, and an atmosphere filled with
taunts, insults, and imprecations, the boats passed out of
sight.
Wafted on the wind followed that direful "Whoop-ah-ho-o-oh!"
ending with the piercing shrill Indian yell
that for sixty years froze the earliest life blood of Minnesota
and Dakota.
Here in the land of the Teton Sioux was to be planted
the future Fort Rice, where exactly sixty years after
Lewis and Clark, there crossed the Missouri one of the
most powerful, costly, and best equipped expeditions ever
sent out against hostile Indians,—four thousand cavalry,
eight hundred mounted infantry, twelve pieces of artillery,
three hundred government teams, three hundred beef
steers, and fifteen steamboats to carry supplies,—to be
joined here on the Fourth of July, 1864, by an emigrant
train of one hundred and sixty teams and two hundred
and fifty people,—the van guard of Montana settlement.
The Sioux were defeated in the Bad Lands, and the emigrants
were carried safely through to Helena, where they
and their descendants live to-day.
Already sweeping up the Missouri, Lewis and Clark
met advancing empire. Near Vermilion River, James
Aird was camping with a license to trade among the
Sioux.
"What is the news from St. Louis?"
There on the borders of a future great State, Lewis
and Clark first heard that Burr and Hamilton had fought
a duel and Hamilton was killed; that three hundred
American troops were cantoned at Bellefontaine, a new
log fort on the Missouri; that Spain had taken a United
States frigate on the Mediterranean; that two British
ships of war had fired on an American ship in the port
of New York, killing the Captain's brother.
Great was the indignation in the United States against
Jefferson and the impressment of American seamen.
"The money spent for Louisiana would have been
much better used in building fighting ships."
"The President had much better be protecting our
rights than cutting up animals and stuffing the skins of
dead raccoons."
"Where is our national honour? Gone, abandoned
on the Mississippi."
And these coureurs on the Mississippi heard that the
conflict foreseen by Napoleon, when he gave us Louisiana,
was raging now in all its fury, interdicting the commerce
of the world.
To their excited ears the river rushed and rocked, the
earth rumbled, with the roar of cannon. To themselves
Lewis and Clark seemed a very small part of the forces
that make and unmake nations,—and yet that expedition
meant more to the world than the field of Waterloo!
The next noon, on ascending the hill of Floyd's Bluff
they found the Indians had opened the grave of their comrade.
Reverently it was filled again.
Home from the buffalo hunt in the plains of the Nebraska,
the Omahas were firing guns to signal their return
to gather in their harvest of corn, beans, and pumpkins.
Keel boats, barges, and bateaux came glistening into
view,—Auguste Chouteau with merchandise to trade
with the Yanktons, another Chouteau to the Platte, a
trader with two men to the Pawnee Loupes, and Joseph
La Croix with seven men bound for the Omahas.
Through the lessening distance Clark recognised on
one of the barges his old comrade, Robert McClellan, the
wonderful scout of Wayne's army, who had ridden on
many an errand of death. Since Wayne's victory McClellan
had been a ranger still, but now the Indians were
quieting down,—all except Tecumseh.
"The country has long since given you up," he told
the Captain. "We have word from Jefferson to seek for
news of Lewis and Clark. The general opinion in the
United States is that you are lost in the unfathomable
depths of the continent. But President Jefferson has
hopes. The last heard of you was at the Mandan villages."
With a laugh they listened to their own obituaries. On
the same barge with McClellan was Gravelines with
orders from Jefferson to instruct the Arikaras in agriculture,
and Dorion to help make way through the Sioux.
"Brave Raven, the Arikara chief, died in Washington,"
said Gravelines. "I am on my way to them with
a speech from the President and the presents which have
been made to the chief."
How home now tugged at their heart strings! Eager
to be on the way, they bade farewell to McClellan.
Down, down they shot along, wind, current, and paddle
in their favour, past shores where the freebooting Kansas
Indians robbed the traders, past increasing forests of
walnut, elm, oak, hickory.
The men were now reduced to a biscuit apiece. Wild
turkeys gobbled on shore, but the party paused not a
moment to hunt.
On the twentieth a mighty shout went up. They heard
the clank of cow bells, and saw tame cattle feeding on the
hills of Charette, the home of Daniel Boone. With cheers
and firing of guns they landed at the village.
"We are indeet astonished," exclaimed the joyful habitants,
grasping their hands. "You haf been given up for
det long tam since." The men were scattered among the
families for the night, honoured guests of Charette.
"Plaintee tam we wish ourself back on ole San Loui',"
said Cruzatte to his admiring countrymen.
To their surprise Lewis and Clark found new settlements
all the way down from Charette. September 21,
firing a tremendous salute from the old stone tower behind
the huts, all St. Charles paid tribute to the Homeric
heroes who had wandered farther than Ulysses and slain
more monsters than Hercules.
Just above the junction of the Missouri and Mississippi
Rivers loomed the fresh mud chimneys of the new log
Fort Bellefontaine, Colonel Thomas Hunt in command,
and Dr. Saugrain, surgeon, appointed by Jefferson.
The Colonel's pretty little daughter, Abby Hunt, looked
up in admiration at Lewis and Clark, and followed all
day these "Indian white men" from the north. Forty
years after she told the story of that arrival. "They
wore dresses of deerskin, fringed and worked with porcupine
quills, something between a military undress frock
coat and an Indian shirt, with leggings and moccasins,
three-cornered cocked hats and long beards."
Standing between the centuries in that log fort on the
Missouri, pretty little Abby Hunt herself was destined to
become historic, as the wife of Colonel Snelling and the
mother of the first white child born in Minnesota.
After an early breakfast with Colonel Hunt, the expedition
set out for the last stretch homeward. They
rounded out of the Missouri into the Mississippi, and
pulled up to St. Louis at noon, Tuesday, September 23,
1806, after an absence of nearly two years and a half.
It was noon when Lewis and Clark sighted the old
stone forts of the Spanish time. Never had that frontier
site appeared so noble, rising on a vast terrace
from the rock-bound river.
As the white walls burst on their view, with simultaneous
movement every man levelled his rifle. The
Captains smiled and gave the signal,—the roar of
thirty rifles awoke the echoes from the rocks.
Running down the stony path to the river came the
whole of St. Louis,—eager, meagre, little Frenchmen,
tanned and sallow and quick of gait, smaller than the
Americans, but graceful and gay, with a heartfelt welcome;
black-eyed French women in camasaks and kerchiefs,
dropping their trowels in their neat little gardens
where they had been delving among the hollyhocks; gay
little French children in red petticoats; and here and
there a Kentuckian, lank and lean, eager,—all tripping
and skipping down to the water's edge.
Elbowing his way among them came Monsieur Auguste
Chouteau, the most noted man in St. Louis. Pierre,
his brother, courtly, well-dressed, eminently social, came
also; and even Madame, their mother, did not disdain to
come down to welcome her friends, Les Américains.
It was like the return of a fur brigade, with shouts of
laughter and genuine rejoicing.
"Mon Dieu! Mon Dieu! eet ees Leewes an' Clark
whom ve haf mournt as det in dose Rock Mountain.
What good word mought dey bring from te fur
countree."
With characteristic abandon the emotional little Frenchmen
flung their arms around the stately forms of Lewis
and Clark, and more than one pretty girl that day printed
a kiss on their bearded lips.
"Major Christy,—well, I declare!" An old Wayne's
army comrade grasped Captain Clark by the hand. What
memories that grasp aroused! William Christy, one of
his brother officers, ready not more than a dozen years
ago to aid in capturing this same San Luis de Ilinoa!
"I have moved to this town. I have a tavern. Send
your baggage right up!" And forthwith a creaking charette
came lumbering down the rocky way.
"Take a room at my house." Pierre Chouteau grasped
the hands of both Captains at once. And to Chouteau's
they went.
"But first we must send word of our safe arrival to
the President," said Lewis, feeling unconsciously for
certain papers that had slept next his heart for many a
day.
"Te post haf departed from San Loui'," remarked a
bystander.
"Departed? It must be delayed. Here, Drouillard,
hurry with this note to Mr. Hay at Cahokia and bid him
hold the mail until to-morrow noon."
Drouillard, with his old friend Pascal Cerré, the son
of Gabriel, set off at once across the Mississippi. The
wharf was lined with flatboats loaded with salt for
'Kasky and furs for New Orleans.
Once a month a one-horse mail arrived at Cahokia.
Formerly St. Louis went over there for mail,—St.
Louis was only a village near Cahokia then; but already
Les Américains were turning things upside down.
"We haf a post office now. San Loui' haf grown."
Every one said that. To eyes that had seen nothing
more stately than Fort Mandan or Clatsop, St. Louis
had taken on metropolitan airs. In the old fort where
lately lounged the Spanish governor, peering anxiously
across the dividing waters, and whence had lately
marched the Spanish garrison, American courts of justice
were in session. Out of the old Spanish martello
tower on the hill, a few Indian prisoners looked down on
the animated street below.
With the post office and the court house had come the
American school, and already vivacious French children
were claiming as their own, Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson,
and George Washington.
Just opposite the Chouteau mansion was the old Spanish
Government House, the house where George Rogers
Clark had met and loved the dazzling Donna.
Aaron Burr had lately been there, feted by the people,
plotting treason with Wilkinson in the Government House
itself; and now his disorganised followers, young men of
birth and education from Atlantic cities, stranded in St.
Louis, were to become the pioneer schoolmasters of Upper
Louisiana.
New houses were rising on every hand. In the good
old French days, goods at fabulous prices were kept in
boxes. Did Madame or Mademoiselle wish anything, it
must be unpacked as from a trunk. Once a year goods
arrived. Sugar, gunpowder, blankets, spices, knives,
hatchets, and kitchen-ware, pell-mell, all together, were
coming out now onto shelves erected by the thrifty
Americans. Already new stores stood side by side with
the old French mansions.
"Alas! te good old quiet times are gone," sighed the
French habitants, wiping a tear with the blue bandana.
And while they looked askance at the tall Americans,
elephantine horses, and Conestoga waggons, that kept
crossing the river, the prices of the little two-acre farms
of the Frenchmen went up, until in a few years the old
French settlers were the nabobs of the land.
Already two ferry lines were transporting a never-ending
line through this new gateway to the wider West.
Land-mad settlers were flocking into "Jefferson's Purchase,"
grubbing out hazel roots, splitting rails, making
fences, building barns and bridges. Men whose sole
wealth consisted in an auger, a handsaw, and a gun,
were pushing into the prairies and the forests. Long-bearded,
dressed in buckskin, with a knife at his belt
and a rifle at his back, the forest-ranging backwoodsman
was over-running Louisiana.
"Why do you live so isolated?" the stranger would
ask.
"I never wish to hear the bark of a neighbour's dog.
When you hear the sound of a neighbour's gun it is time
to move away."
Thus, solitary and apart, the American frontiersman
took up Missouri.
Strolling along the Rue Royale, followed by admiring
crowds, Lewis and Clark found themselves already at
the Pierre Chouteau mansion, rising like an old-world
chateau amid the lesser St. Louis. Up the stone steps,
within the demi-fortress, there were glimpses of fur
warehouses, stables, slaves' quarters, occupying a block,—practically
a fort within the city.
Other guests were there before them,—Charles Gratiot,
who had visited the Clarks in Virginia, and John P.
Cabanné, who was to wed Gratiot's daughter, Julia.
On one of those flatboats crowding the wharf that morning
came happy Pierre Menard, the most illustrious citizen
of Kaskaskia, with his bride of a day, Angelique
Saucier. Pierre Menard's nephew, Michel Menard, was
shortly to leave for Texas, to become an Indian trader
and founder of the city of Galveston.
At the board, too, sat Pierre Chouteau, the younger,
just returned from a trip up the Mississippi with Julien
Dubuque, where he had helped to start Dubuque and open
the lead mines.
Out of the wild summer grape the old inhabitants of
St. Louis had long fabricated their choicest Burgundy.
But of late the Chouteaus had begun to import their wine
from France, along with ebony chairs, claw-footed tables,
and other luxuries, the first in this Mississippi wild. For
never had the fur-trade been so prosperous.
There was laughter and clinking of glasses, and questions
of lands beyond the Yellowstone. Out of that hour
arose schemes for a trapper's conquest along the trail on
which ten future States were strung.
"The mouth of the Yellowstone commands the rich
fur-trade of the Rocky mountains," said Captain Clark.
Captain Lewis dwelt on the Three Forks as a strategic
point for a fort. No one there listened with more breathless
intent than the dark-haired boy, the young Chouteau,
who was destined to become the greatest financier of the
West, a king of the fur trade, first rival and then partner
of John Jacob Astor.
No wonder the home-coming of Lewis and Clark was
the signal for enterprises such as this country had never
yet seen. They had penetrated a realm whose monarch
was the grizzly bear, whose queen was the beaver, whose
armies were Indian tribes and the buffalo.
Gallic love of gaiety and amusement found in this return
ample opportunity for the indulgence of hospitable
dancing and feasting. Every door was open. Every
house, from Chouteau's down, had its guest out of the
gallant thirty-one.
Hero-worship was at its height. Hero-worship is
characteristic of youthful, progressive peoples. Whole
nations strive to emulate ideals. The moment that ceases,
ossification begins.
Here the ideals were Lewis and Clark. They had been
west; their men had been west. They, who had traced
the Missouri to its cradle in the mountains, who had
smoked the calumet with remotest tribes, who had carried
the flag to the distant Pacific, became the lions of
St. Louis.
Such spontaneous welcome made a delightful impression
upon the hearts of the young Captains, and they felt
a strong inclination to make the city their permanent
home.
The galleries of the little inns of St. Louis were filled
with Frenchmen, smoking and telling stories all day long.
Nothing hurried, nothing worried them; the rise of the
river, the return of a brigade, alone broke the long summer
day of content.
But here was something new.
Even York, addicted to romance, told Munchausen
tales of thrilling incidents that never failed of an appreciative
audience. Trappers, flat-boatmen, frontiersmen,
and Frenchmen loved to spin long yarns at the Green
Tree Inn, but York could outdo them all. He had been
to the ocean, had seen the great whale and sturgeon that
put all inland fish stories far into the shade.
Petrie, Auguste Chouteau's old negro, who came with
him as a boy and grew old and thought he owned
Auguste Chouteau,—Petrie, who always said, "Me and
the Colonel," met in York for the first time one greater
than himself.
Immediately upon their return Lewis and Clark had
repaired to the barber and tailor, and soon bore little resemblance
to the tawny frontiersmen in fringed hunting-shirts
and beards that had so lately issued from the
wilderness.
In the upper story of the Chouteau mansion, the Captains
regarded with awe the high four-poster with its
cushiony, billowy feather-bed.
"This is too luxurious! York, bring my robe and
bear-skin."
Lewis and Clark could not sleep in beds that night.
They heard the watch call and saw the glimmer of campfires
in their dreams. The grandeur of the mountains
was upon them, cold and white and crowned with stars,
the vastness of the prairie and the dashing of ocean, the
roar of waterfalls, the hum of insects, and the bellowing
of buffalo.
They knew now the Missouri like the face of a
friend; they had stemmed its muddy mouth, had evaded
its shifting sandbanks, had watched its impetuous falls
that should one day whirl a thousand wheels. Up windings
green as paradise they had drunk of its crystal
sources in the mountains.
They had seen it when the mountains cast their shadows
around the campfires, and in the blaze of noon when the
quick tempest beat it into ink. They had seen it white
in Mandan winter, the icy trail of brave and buffalo;
and they had seen it crimson, when far-off peaks were
tipped with amethystine gold.
In the vast and populous solitude of nature they had
followed the same Missouri spreading away into the
beaver-meadows of the Madison, the Jefferson, and the
Gallatin, and had written their journals on hillsides
where the windflower and the larkspur grew wild on
Montana hills.
An instinct, a relic, an inheritance of long ago was
upon them, when their ancestors roved the earth untrammelled
by cities and civilisation, when the rock was man's
pillow and the cave his home, when the arrow in his
strong hand brought the fruits of the chase, when garments
of skin clad his limbs, and God spoke to the white
savage under the old Phœnician stars.
In their dreams they felt the rain and wind beat on
their leather tent. Sacajawea's baby cried, Spring nodded
with the rosy clarkia, screamed with Clark's crow, and
tapped with Lewis's woodpecker.
"Rat-tat-tat!" Was that the woodpecker? No, some
one was knocking at the door of their bed chamber. And
no one else than Pierre Chouteau himself.
"Drouillard is back from Cahokia ready to carry your
post. The rider waits."
This was the world again. It was morning. Throwing
off robes and bear-skins, and rising from the hardwood
floor where they had voluntarily camped that night,
both Captains looked at the tables strewn with letters,
where until past midnight they had sat the night before.
There lay Clark's letter to his brother, George Rogers,
and there, also, was the first rough draft of Lewis's letter
to the President, in a hand as fine and even as copperplate,
but interlined, and blotted with erasures.
In the soft, warm St. Louis morning, with Mississippi
breezes rustling the curtain, after a hurried breakfast
both set to work to complete the letters.
For a time nothing was heard but the scratching of
quill pens, as each made clean copies of their letters
for transmission to the far-off centuries. But no centuries
troubled then; to-day,—to-day, was uppermost.
York stuck in his head, hat in hand. "Massah Clahk,
Drewyer say he hab jus' time, sah."
"Well, sir, tell Drouillard the whole United States
mail service can wait on us to-day. We are writing to
the President."
Before ten o'clock Drouillard was off to Cahokia with
messages that gave to the nation at large its first intimation
that the Pacific expedition was a consummated fact.
There were hurried days at St. Louis, a village
that knew not haste before. The skins were sunned
and stored in the rooms of Cadet Chouteau. Boxes
of specimens were packed for the Government. Captain
Lewis opened his trunk and found his papers all wet.
The hermetically sealed tin cases that held the precious
journals alone had saved these from destruction.
The Captains had their hands full. The restless men
must be paid and discharged. Nine of the adventurers
within a week after the return to St. Louis sold their
prospective land claims for a pittance. Seven of these
claims were bought by their fellow soldiers; Sergeant
John Ordway took several of the men and settled on the
site of the present city of New Madrid.
Robert Frazer received two hundred and fifty dollars
for his claim, and prepared to publish his travels,—a
volume that never saw the light. In addition to land
grants, the men received double pay amounting altogether
to eleven thousand dollars.
A grand dinner, given by St. Louis, a ball and farewell,
and the Captains were on the way with their Mandan
chief, Big White, and his Indians, and Gass, Shannon,
Ordway, Pryor, and Bratton.
"The route by which I propose travelling to Washington
is by way of Cahokia, Vincennes, Louisville, the Crab
Orchard, Fincastle, Staunton, and Charlottesville," Captain
Lewis had written in that letter to Jefferson. "Any
letters directed to me at Louisville will most probably
meet me at that place."
With well-filled saddle-bags, the returning heroes
crossed to Cahokia and set out across Illinois in the
Indian summer of 1806.
Governor Harrison was at Vincennes, and Vigo, and a
hundred others to welcome.
"Hurrah for old Kentucky!" cried Clark, as he caught
sight of its limestone shores. On many a smiling hilltop,
the log cabin had expanded into a baronial country seat,
with waxed floors and pianos. Already the stables were
full of horses, the halls were full of music.
Clark, Lewis, and Big White climbed the cliff to the
Point of Rock. Who but chiefs should visit there?
With newspapers around him, sat George Rogers
Clark, following the career of Napoleon. That calm and
splendid eye kindled at sight of his brother. His locks
had grown longer, his eye a deeper black under the
shaggy brows, but the Revolutionary hero shone in every
lineament as he took the hands of the two explorers.
With the dashing waters at their feet, upon the lonely
Point of Rock, above the Falls of the Ohio, William Clark
stopped first to greet his brother from the great expedition.
Painters may find a theme here, and future
romancers a page in drama.
Without delay, taking his rusty three-cornered chapeau
from its peg, and donning his faded uniform, the conqueror
of Illinois accompanied the explorers to Locust
Grove, ablaze that night with welcome.
Lucy, Fanny, Edmund were there; and Jonathan from
Mulberry Hill; Major Croghan, the courtly host of old;
and the lad, George Croghan, now in his fifteenth year.
All too quickly fled the hours; the hickory flamed and the
brass andirons shone not brighter than the happy faces.
Spread around for exhibition were Mandan robes,
fleeces of the mountain goat, Clatsop hats, buffalo horns,
and Indian baskets, Captain Clark's "tiger-cat coat,"
Indian curios, and skins of grizzly bears,—each article
suggestive of adventure surpassing Marco Polo or the
Arabian nights. Another huge box, filled with bones for
the President, had been left with George Rogers Clark at
the Point of Rock.
Louisville received the explorers with bonfires and cannonry.
A grand ball was given in their honour, in which
the Indians, especially, shone in medals and plumage.
The next day there was a sad visit to Mill Creek, where
lamenting parents received the last token and listened
to the final word concerning their beloved son, Sergeant
Charles Floyd.
A cold wind and a light fall of snow warned them no
time must be lost in crossing the Kentucky mountains;
but encumbered with the Indian retinue they made slow
progress along that atrocious road, on which the followers
of Boone had "sometimes paused to pray and
sometimes stopped to swear."
A few days beyond Cumberland Gap, Clark's heart
beat a tattoo; they had come to Fincastle! Among its
overhanging vines and trees, the Hancock mansion was
in holiday attire,—Harriet Kennerly had just been
married to Dr. Radford of Fincastle.
Colonel Hancock had been proud to entertain George
Rogers Clark, still more was he now delighted with the
visit of the famous explorers.
"La!" exclaimed Black Granny at the announcement
of Captain Clark. "Miss Judy?" Black Granny had
nursed Miss Judy from the cradle.
Sedately Miss Judy came down the long staircase,—not
the child that Clark remembered, but a woman, petite,
serious. The chestnut brown curls with a glint of gold
were caught with a high back comb, and a sweeping gown
had replaced the short petticoats that lately tripped over
the foothills of the Blue Ridge.
"My pretty cousin going to marry that ugly man?"
exclaimed Harriet, when she heard of the early engagement.
There was nothing effeminate about Clark, nor artificial.
His features were rugged almost to plainness; his
head was high from the ear to the top, a large brain
chamber.
"Absolutely beautiful," said Judy to herself, associating
those bronzed features with endless winds that blew
on far-off mountains.
Behind the respectable old Hancock silver, Judy's
mother turned the tea and talked. Turning up his laced
sleeves to carve the mutton, Colonel Hancock asked a
thousand questions regarding that wonderful journey.
"We passed the winter on the Pacific, then crossed the
mountains, and my division came down the Yellowstone,"
Clark was saying. "By the way, Judy, I have named a
river for you,—the Judith."
A peal of laughter rang through the dining-room.
"Judith! Judith, did you say? Why, Captain Clark,
my name is Julia."
Clark was confounded. He almost feared Judy was
making fun of him.
"Is it, really, now? I always supposed Judy stood for
Judith."
Again rang out the infectious peal, in which Clark
himself joined; but to this day rolls the river Judith in
Montana, named for Clark's mountain maid of Fincastle.
"That I should live to see you back from the Pacific!"
was Aunt Molly's greeting at "The Farm," at Charlottesville.
"I reckoned the cannibal savages would eat
you. We looked for nothing less than the fate of Captain
Cook."
But Maria, whose eyes had haunted Lewis in many a
long Montana day, seemed strangely shy and silent. In
fact, she had another lover, perhaps a dearer one.
Uncle Nicholas was sick. He was growing old, but
still directed the negroes of a plantation that extended
from Charlottesville to the Fluvanna.
It was sunset when Captain Lewis reached the home at
Locust Hill, and was folded to his mother's bosom. With
daily prayer had Lucy Meriwether followed her boy
across the Rocky Mountains.
Meriwether's little pet sister, Mary Marks, had blossomed
into a bewitching rose.
"Here is a letter from the President."
Captain Lewis read his first message from Jefferson in
more than two years and a half.
Turning to Big White, the chief, who at every step had
gazed with amazement at the white man's country,—
"The President says 'Tell my friend of Mandan that
I have already opened my arms to receive him."
"Ugh! Ugh!" commented Big White, with visions of
barbaric splendour in his untutored brain.
That afternoon the entire party rode over to Monticello
to show the chief the President's Indian hall, where all
their gifts and tokens had been arranged for display.
The next day, by Richmond, Fredericksburg, and Alexandria,
the party set out for the national capital. Every
step of the way was a triumphal progress.
It was well into January before both Captains reached
Washington. Workmen were still building at the
Capitol, rearing a home for Congress. Tools of carpentry
and masonry covered the windy lawn where Jefferson
rode daily, superintending as on his own Virginia
plantation.
Never had Captain Lewis seen his old friend, the
President, so moved as when black Ben, the valet, with
stentorian call announced, "Captains Mehwether Lewis
and William Clahk!"
In silk stockings and pumps they stood in the Blue
Room. At sight of that well-known figure in blue coat
faced with yellow, red plush waistcoat, and green velveteen
breeches, Meriwether Lewis bounded as a boy
toward his old friend.
The gray-haired president visibly trembled as he
strained the two sons of his country to his heart. Tears
gushed from his eyes, "The suspense has been awful."
Then pausing, with difficulty he controlled his emotion.
"But the hopes, the dreams, the ambitions of twenty
years are now vindicated, and you are safe, boys, you
are safe. I felt that if you were lost the country would
hold me responsible."
If others had asked questions about the route, Jefferson
now overwhelmed them with an avalanche, put with
the keenness of a scholar and the penetration of a
scientist. For with the possible exception of Franklin,
Thomas Jefferson was the most learned man of his
time.
Into the President's hands Lewis placed the precious
journals, obtained at such a cost in toil and travel. Each
pocket volume, morocco-bound, had as soon as filled been
cemented in a separate tin case to prevent injury by wetting.
But now Lewis had slipped the cases off and displayed
them neat and fresh as on the day of writing.
On rocking boats, on saddle pommels, and after dark
by the flickering campfire, had the writing been done.
T's were not always crossed, nor i's dotted, as hurriedly
each event was jotted down to be read and criticised after
a hundred years. Written under such circumstances, and
in such haste, it is not remarkable that words are misspelled
and some omitted. A considerable collection of
later letters gives ample evidence that both the Captains
were graceful correspondents.
And the vocabularies, the precious vocabularies gathered
from Council Bluffs to Clatsop, were taken by Jefferson
and carefully laid away for future study.
Big White and his Indians were entertained by Jefferson
and the cabinet. Dolly Madison, Mrs. Gallatin, and
other ladies of the White House, manifested the liveliest
interest as the tall Shahaka, six feet and ten inches, stood
up before them in his best necklace of bear's claws, admiring
the pretty squaws that talked to them.
"And was your father a chief, and your father's
father?" Mrs. Madison inquired of Shahaka. She was
always interested in families and lineage. "And what
makes your hair so white?" But Shahaka had never
heard of Prince Madoc.
Never had the village-capital been so gay. Dinners
and balls followed in rapid succession, eulogies and
poems were recited in honour of the explorers. There
was even talk of changing the name of the Columbia to
Lewis River.
In those days everybody went to the Capitol to hear
the debates. The report of Lewis and Clark created a
lively sensation. Complaints of the Louisiana Purchase
ceased. From the Mississippi to the sea, the United
States had virtually taken possession of the continent.
Members of Congress looked at one another with dilated
eyes. With lifted brow and prophetic vision the young
republic pierced the future. The Mississippi, once her
utmost border, was now but an inland river. Beyond it,
the Great West hove in sight, with peaks of snow and
the blue South Sea. The problem of the ages had been
solved; Lewis and Clark had found the road to Asia.
The news fell upon Europe and America as not less
than a revelation.
Congress immediately gave sixteen hundred acres of
land each to the Captains, and double pay in gold and
three hundred and twenty acres to each of their men, to
be laid out on the west side of the Mississippi. On the
third day of March, 1807, Captain Lewis was appointed
Governor of Louisiana; and on March 12, Captain Clark
was made Brigadier General, and Indian Agent for
Louisiana.
Tall, slender, but twenty-nine, Henry Clay was in the
Senate, advocating roads,—roads and canals to the West.
He was planning, pleading, persuading for a canal around
the Falls of the Ohio, he was appealing for the improvement
of the Wilderness Road through which Boone had
broken a bridle trace. His prolific imagination grasped
the Chesapeake and Ohio canal and an interior connection
with the Lakes.
Henry Clay—"Harry Clay" as Kentucky fondly
called him—had a faculty for remembering names,
faces, places. As yesterday, he recalled William Clark
at Lexington.
And Clark remembered Clay, standing in an ox-waggon,
with flashing eyes, hair wildly waving, and
features aglow, addressing an entranced throng. The
same look flashed over him now as he stepped toward
the heroes of the Pacific.
"Congratulations, Governor."
"Congratulations, General."
The young men smiled at their new titles.
Another was there, not to be forgotten, strong featured,
cordial, cheerful, of manly beauty and large dark
eyes, endeavouring to interest Congress in his inventions,—Robert
Fulton of the steamboat.
Wherever they went, a certain halo seemed to hang
around these men of adventure. They were soldiers and
hunters, and more. Through heat and cold, and mount
and plain, four thousand miles by canoe, on foot and
horseback, through forests of gigantic pines and along
the banks of unknown rivers, among unheard-of tribes
who had never seen a white man, they had carried the
message of the President and brought back a report on
the new land that is authority to this day.
"What did you find?" Eager inquirers crowded on
every side to hear the traveller's tale. At Louisville, men
drove in from distant plantations; at Fincastle their
steps were thronged along the village walks; in Washington
they were never alone.
"What did we find? Gigantic sycamores for canoes,
the maple for sugar, the wild cherry and walnut for
joiner's work, red and white elm for cartwrights, the
osage orange for hedges impenetrable, white and black
oak for ship and carpenter work, pine for countless uses,
and durable cedar.
"What did we find? All sorts of plants and herbs
for foods, dyes, and medicines, and pasturage unending.
Boone's settlers on the Missouri frontier have farms of
wheat, maize, potatoes, and little cotton fields, two acres
sufficient for a family. Hemp is indigenous to the soil.
Even in the Mandan land, the Indians, with implements
that barely scratch the earth, have immense gardens of
corn, beans, pumpkins, and squashes.
"What did we find? Oceans of beaver and seas of
buffalo, clay fit for bricks and white clay for pottery, salt
springs, saltpetre, and plaster, pipestone, and quarries
of marble red and white, mines of iron, lead and coal,
horses to be bought for a song, cedar, and fir trees six
and eight feet in diameter, enormous salmon that block
the streams."
No wonder the land was excited at the report of Lewis
and Clark. All at once the unknown mysterious West
stood revealed as the home of natural resources. Their
travels became the Robinson Crusoe of many a boy who
lived to see for himself the marvels of that trans-Mississippi.
Sergeant Gass received his pay in gold and went home
to Wellsburg, West Virginia, to find his old father
smoking still beside the fire. With the help of a Scotch
schoolmaster Patrick published his book the next year, immortalising
the name of the gallant Irish Sergeant. Then
he "inlisted" again, and fought the Creeks, and in 1812
lost an eye at Lundy's Lane. Presently he married the
daughter of a Judge, and lived to become a great student
in his old age, and an authority on Indians and early
times.
John Ordway went home to New Hampshire and
married, and returned to live on his farm near New
Madrid.
William Bratton tarried for a time in Kentucky, served
in the War of 1812 under Harrison, and was at Tippecanoe
and the Thames. He married and lived at Terre
Haute, Indiana, and is buried at Waynetown.
George Gibson settled at St. Louis, and lived and died
there. Nathaniel Pryor and William Werner became
Indian agents under William Clark; Pryor died in 1831
among the Osages. George Drouillard went into the
fur trade and was killed by the Blackfeet at the Three
Forks of the Missouri. John Coalter, after adventures
that will be related, settled at the town of Daniel Boone,
married a squaw and died there. John Potts was killed
by the Blackfeet on the river Jefferson. Sacajawea and
Charboneau lived for many years among the Mandans,
and their descendants are found in Dakota to this day.
Of the voyageurs who went as far as the Mandan
town, Lajaunnesse accompanied Fremont across the
mountains; and two others, Francis Rivet and Philip
Degie, were the earliest settlers of Oregon, where they
lived to a great old age, proud of the fact that they had
"belonged to Lewis and Clark."