On a bright morning in early June, Charlie
Dorner drove up to the Pages' door with a large
camping wagon, to which two strong, stout
mules were harnessed. The wagon was then
laden with things brought from the house in
barrels, boxes, baskets, and bundles. One not
familiar with the capacity of California mules
would have thought it impossible for two animals
to haul the tremendous load on the long
climb, which was to end sixty miles in the mountains,
three thousand feet above the level of the
sea.
Charlie Holden, in a suit of corduroy, with
high boots and leggings, and a huge sombrero of
Mexican make on his curly red head, excited the
admiration of Walter, who had never seen him
before. The mules started off without balking
after one crack of Charlie's whip. The speed
with which they started was not great, but Mr.
Page, who stood with the children watching the
departure, said they would be likely to keep the
same pace until their destination was reached on
the afternoon of the following day.
"I'd like awfully well to go along," said
Walter. "I wish I had thought of it before.
Would you have let me go, papa?"
"No; I think it is better that we should all
keep together," said Mr. Page. "I am sure
mother would not have considered it for a
moment."
"I think it is nearly time to start, don't you,
father?" inquired Nellie, consulting a diminutive
silver watch which her mother had given
her on her tenth birthday. "Why, it's almost
eight o'clock, and the train goes at nine."
Mr. Page laughed. "The cab will not be here
before half-past," he said; "and even then we
shall have more than ample time to reach the
train."
Nellie sighed. "I think I'll go in and see if
I can do anything for mamma," she said.
"This does seem such a dreadfully long
morning."
"You were up at half-past five," said Mr.
Page. "That is why it seems so long. But we
shall be off pretty soon, and then you will find
time flying. At least I hope so, for we have
quite a journey before us."
When they were seated at last in the train
in which they were to make the first part of
the trip, with the mother well wrapped in her
traveling cloak, the children amused themselves
by looking out of the car windows at the groves
of lemons, oranges, and nuts extending on both
sides of the railroad. Thus an hour passed
quickly, and the station where they were to leave
the train was reached.
"The mountains are beginning already," said
Walter, as they stood on the platform awaiting
the arrival of the stage. It was indeed a wild-looking
spot. Sheer from the road high hills
rose ruggedly, clothed here and there with mesquite
bushes and wild fern, now beginning to
wither through lack of rain.
"Yes, the mountains are beginning, as you
say," remarked Mr. Page. "We shall have
ample opportunity to become acquainted with
them to-day."
As he spoke a buggy, rather dilapidated in
appearance, the horse driven by a Mexican, came
in sight. Mr. Page and his wife had arranged
to drive in this, thinking it would not be so
fatiguing as riding in the stage.
"Good-morning, Juan," said Mr. Page.
"Good-morning, Señor," the man replied.
"Not very pretty, this, says Señor Smith, but
comfortable, yes."
"Well, we care more for comfort than beauty
just here and now," rejoined Mr. Page. "Mother,"
he continued, turning to his wife, "are you
ready to drive with me for the eight hours
or so?"
"Oh, not so long, Señor," said the man. "In
six you will be well at Santa Isabel."
"We do not go so far to-night, I think," said
Mr. Page. "However, that will depend on circumstances."
Mrs. Page was ready. "Shall we start at
once, Ralph?" she inquired. "Or shall we wait
and see the others off first?"
"We ought to go ahead of them," said the
husband; "otherwise we shall have the dust of
the road in our eyes all the way. Those stage
horses make clouds of dust."
"Well, then, we had better go ahead. Let us
wait, though, till the stage arrives. I want to
feel that they are coming just behind us," she
said.
"Here it is now!" shouted Walter.
"My patience!" exclaimed Aunt Mary.
"What a ramshackle affair it is—nothing but
a dilapidated covered wagon."
The driver, a thin-faced, dark-skinned young
man with a strong nasal accent, showed a set
of brilliant teeth as he rejoined pleasantly:
"Mebbe it looks ramshackle, miss; but you'll
find it all right as a carrier. There's lots of
folks come up and down oncet or twicet a week
just for the pleasure of ridin' in this here
stage."
With these words he threw the reins over the
backs of the horses and, stepping upon the platform,
prepared to put in the freight and baggage
before seating the passengers. Sack after
sack, box after box, package after package was
deposited in the immense "boot" at the back
of the vehicle; then the space under and between
the seats was filled to its utmost capacity.
"See here," said Mr. Page, who had been
watching the transfer with some concern,
"where are you going to put your passengers?
Or, rather, where are they going to put their
feet? Do you intend to have them sit Turk
fashion on the seats?"
The driver showed his brilliant teeth once
more as he answered, good-humoredly: "Plenty
of room for passengers, mister. I understand
you and the lady are goin' in the buggy. There
won't be no one in the stage, 'ceptin' the other
lady and the little boy and gal and myself.
You ought to see 'em sometimes, settin' on each
other's laps."
"Oh, there's room enough in one way," said
Mr. Page; "but they will have no place to rest
their feet. Why do you crowd the stage with
baggage and freight? Why don't you have an
extra wagon?"
"Ha, ha!" laughed the driver, though not at
all disrespectfully. "That would be a cost—to
freighters.
"But," he continued, quite seriously, "this is
a larger load of freight and baggage than usual.
There's going to be a party up at Julian to-night,
and there's a good many extras.
"If you'll step in now, ladies," he went on,
turning politely to Aunt Mary and Nellie, "you
can have your choice of seats. The lady can
set in the back with the hull seat to herself,
and she won't have to sit Turk fashion, neither.
The little gal can do the same, and when you
put a robe at your back—plenty of 'em here—you'll
be like you was reclinin' on a couch.
Otherwise, I don't deny that if you sit up
straight you'll have your knees at your chin,
for there won't be no other place to put 'em,
with the boxes and bags on the floor. The little
feller can set with me in front."
Walter sprang into the place allotted him.
"Hello!" he exclaimed. "Our legs are not
going to be cramped. You've got all the baggage
under the other seats behind there."
"That's the way it's got to be," said the
driver gravely. "Got to have my legs free to
steer the ship. Holdin' them mules ain't always
a joke."
"Oh, are they dangerous?" queried Aunt
Mary in alarm, in the act of gathering her
skirts about her to enter the vehicle. Nellie
was already seated sidewise on her perch.
"Not a bit dangerous, ma'am," rejoined the
driver. "Never been an accident on this here
line. But there could be, and there might be
without keerful drivers—we have 'em on this
route——"
"And couldn't you, don't you think, dust off
the seats?" asked Aunt Mary, still hesitating,
her skirts in her hands.
The boy here burst into a fit of uncontrollable
mirth. "It's plain to be seen this here's your
first trip to the mountains, ma'am. Why, what
would be the use? Before we get to Witch
Creek we'll be fairly eatin' dust."
With a solemn shake of the head, but making
no further remarks, Aunt Mary now took her
place. Giving her and Nellie each a heavy
woolen blanket to serve as cushions for their
backs, the driver also prepared to envelop them
in linen robes, to preserve them as much as possible
from the dust they were to "eat" before
nightfall.
"Oh, I can't have that thing around me,"
said Nellie, tossing it aside. "I want to be able
to move about. I'm not afraid of the dust."
Mrs. Page, who stood beside her husband
watching the proceedings, was about to remonstrate,
but the husband said:
"Let her alone, Martha. The dust will not
hurt her. The child is right."
The driver nodded his head in approbation
and prepared to take his own seat. "Here
comes the mail," he said, as a short, squat man
approached, carrying a sack on his shoulder.
"We'll be off in a jiffy now."
"There you are, Dingley!" the man called
out as he flung the mail pouch at Walter's feet.
"Come, mother," said Mr. Page, helping his
wife into the buggy; "we must get a start, or
we'll be in for the dust."
"That's so," rejoined Dingley, "that's so.
I'll give ye five minutes' start to forge ahead."
Presently the brisk little buggy horse was
trotting ahead, and as it turned the first bend
of the road the stage driver touched his mules.
Off they started.
Despite the dust which covered them from
head to foot, even penetrating the luncheon
basket (which they opened about noon by the
side of a tiny, clear spring half hidden amid a
grove of cottonwood trees), the party enjoyed
the ride very much. By the time they reached
Witch Creek, where they intended passing the
night if Mrs. Page felt much fatigued, she
thought herself fully able to push on to Santa
Isabel. From there they would have to make
an early start for the hot springs next morning.
Three miles and a half further on their journey
ended for the day. They had enjoyed every
inch of it, yet were delighted to find themselves,
at the close of the day, in the long, white, one-story
hotel, set invitingly amid a grove of trees
larger than any they had seen in California.
After an appetizing supper they retired to rest.
Everybody slept well, and seven o'clock found
them ready for the road once more.
To the surprise of the children, who thought
they were to make the remainder of their journey
in the company of their friend Dingley,
they learned that such was not the case. He
had continued on his route up to Julian. The
way of our travelers lay in another direction.
It was a delight to step into the spring wagon
awaiting them, to find themselves speeding
along the edge of the foot-hills, through the
broad valley, until, almost before they had become
accustomed to their surroundings, the
driver, pointing to a speck in the distance, apparently
at the very base of a rugged mountain,
announced: "There are the hot springs."
"How close to the mountain they are," said
Walter.
"Not so close as they seem," was the reply.
"They are seven miles distant, but the atmosphere
is so clear that they appear much
nearer."
A sudden turn in the road now hid the village
from view. As they wound on and on it
would reappear and disappear, always under
some new aspect of wild picturesqueness and
beauty.
"You see that highest peak over there, just
above the village?" said the driver, pointing
with his whip. "Well, that is the 'Eagle.' The
two other mountains nearest are called the
'Rabbit' and the 'Squaw.'"
"What lies behind that small mountain chain
at whose foot the village seems to nestle?" inquired
Aunt Mary.
"The desert," replied the driver. "Those
hills are all that separate these lands from the
dreariest wastes you ever saw."
Soon they came in sight of small, cultivated
patches of land, whose rich, black soil gave evidence
of its fertility. Adobe houses, with brush
additions, could be seen everywhere. The sound
of falling water pleasantly greeted their ears.
"Is there a waterfall here?" asked Mrs. Page.
"No, ma'am," said the driver. "At least, not
a natural waterfall. That sound is made by
the waste water from the bathhouses flowing
into the irrigation ditch, which is used by all
these people in turn to irrigate their lands."
Some one shouted "Hello!" and in a moment
Charlie Dorner was seen approaching. "Turn
in this way, if you please," he said. "I've
found a splendid camping place—not too sunny,
not too shady, not too close to anybody, yet very
near the baths."
Mrs. Page remained in the wagon, but the
others were soon following Charlie down a short
incline leading to a miniature grove of cottonwoods.
A pair of pepper trees stood guard at
the entrance. The main tent—there were three—was
arranged as a sitting-room. Here Mrs.
Page and Aunt Mary and Nellie were to sleep.
During the day their bunks were fastened to
the sides of the tent and hidden by curtains.
A large rug covered the boarded floor. Board
floors are somewhat of a luxury among the
Cupa folk, especially the campers.
A table covered by a dark red cloth stood in
the middle. Comfortable camp chairs were
scattered all about. In one of the other tents
Mr. Page and Walter were to sleep, in another
Charlie would take up his quarters.
An abandoned brush-house in the rear, about
fifteen feet square, had been converted into a
kitchen and dining-room, divided by an archway
made of pepper boughs. When Mrs. Page
arrived she was shown to the tent sitting-room.
She pronounced it perfect.
The children, eager to explore the neighborhood,
scarcely took time to unpack their belongings
before they asked to be allowed to go out for
a walk. Permission being given, their father said
he would go along. "Oh, yes, do come, papa,"
said Nellie. "You can show us everything."
"We are now on the outskirts of Cupa," he
said merrily as, after descending the declivity
which led to their camping place, they stood at
the head of a street, or road, with houses
straggling on either side to the number of forty
or fifty. In the distance could be seen flourishing
vineyards and green patches of land.
Here and there a man was lazily ploughing.
To the left arose a great cloud of steam ascending
slowly into the air, where it was soon lost
in the clear blue.
"There are the springs," said Mr. Page.
"Shall we go down?"
"Yes, yes, let us go!" cried both children. As
they strolled along the dusty street Walter observed
that he saw only white people.
"Where are the Indians?" he inquired anxiously.
"Have they gone so far away from their
homes that we can't see them at all?"
"Oh, no," replied the father. "On our return,
if we take a short cut to the right, we
shall probably see a good many of them living
in those brush-houses."
And it so proved. After they had gone down
to the springs, surveyed the boiling pools bursting
from the solid granite and taken a drink
from one of them, they returned by the back
road, and found that every brush-house they
passed was inhabited by Indians, in various
stages of comfort or discomfort. These houses
generally stood from fifty to a hundred feet in
the rear of the adobe dwelling, rented for the
season at a good price to the visitors in search
of health or recreation.
The people manifested no curiosity at the
appearance of the strangers; even the Indian
children were stolid and indifferent. Later the
Pages were to learn that the reserve could be
broken when they came to look upon the strangers
as friends. Making a détour, the trio advanced
toward the church, which stood on a
slight knoll overlooking the village.
Everything around it was bleak and lean,
the plaster falling from the walls both outside
and inside. They tried to enter, but the door
was locked. Through the windows they could
see the little altar adorned with bright tissue-paper
flowers. There appeared to be no one in
the vicinity, and Walter, in a spirit of mischief,
picked up a stick from the ground and touched
the bell which hung in front of the door on
two heavy crossbeams, gnarled and worm-eaten.
"Walter, you should not have done that,"
said the father, as a single, sharp, clear note
resounded through the air.
"It is what they all do," said a boyish voice
back of him. "It is a beautiful sound, don't
you think?"
"Where did you come from, my boy?" asked
Mr. Page as the young stranger advanced. He
was about Walter's age, clad in blue overalls and
flannel shirt. The battered felt hat which served
him as head covering was held in his hand.
"I live there," he replied, pointing to a
ruined adobe house at some distance behind the
church. "I live there with Mauricio. He is my
uncle. He is the priest."
"The priest!" exclaimed Mr. Page. "And
living in such a place! Are you not an Indian
boy?" he continued, looking at the swarthy skin,
black eyes and raven hair. "Surely you are an
Indian, and there are no Indian priests, in this
country, at least."
"He is not a real priest, my uncle," replied
the boy. "But that is what they call him—the
Protestants, I mean. I told you that way
just for fun."
He was smiling broadly, showing his white
teeth, and his eyes twinkled merrily.
"How did you know we were Catholics?" inquired
Mr. Page rather gravely, not very well
pleased at this facetiousness.
"I saw you kneel in front of the church, I
saw you make the sign of the cross; and I knew
then that you did not come to make fun, as so
many do."
"But why do you make fun and tell us your
uncle is a priest when he is not one? Where is
he now?"
"He is away at Palomas—at the sheep-shearing,"
said the boy. "I will tell it to you what
I mean. My uncle takes care for the church—the
Father comes not often here any more, and
every Sunday my uncle rings the bell, or sometimes
I do, and the people come, and he says
the prayers aloud. And that is why the people
who do not know about Catholics call him the
priest. We let them do; we don't care. They
don't know much—some of them."
"You speak English very well," said Walter.
"And why not?" answered the boy. "I have
been to school six years at Deming, at the Mission.
Maybe I go back in the fall, I don't
know."
"What is your name?" inquired Mr. Page.
"I am called Francisco Perez," was the reply.
"I will fetch water for you, or wood, or do
anything that I can do, and I will not charge
you much. Oh, I can do many things, for I
have been to the Mission to school."
"Are there many boys here?" asked Walter.
"What kind of boys?" questioned Francisco.
"White boys, or Indian?"
"Oh, any kind."
"Just now there are no white boys but you.
Maybe some will come. And not many Indians,
either. Many are gone to Mesa Grande and
around there, picking berries and cherries, and
then there will be the grape picking."
"Will you play with us sometimes and show
us places?" continued Walter.
Francisco laughed. "I do not play much,"
he said, "and there are not places to show.
You see how it is," with a swing of his hand
over the valley. "But I will do what I can."
"We are camping down there," said Mr. Page,
pointing to the three white tents in the midst
of the cottonwood grove.
"You have the best place. In a week you
could not have got there, for others are coming
soon and would have taken it."
"Well, come down, Francisco, and we'll see
what we can do," said Mr. Page. "You look
like a good boy, and Walter will want a companion.
Good-by for the present."
"Adios," said Francisco, retracing his steps
to his ruined dwelling and, the children noticed,
not once looking back, though they followed him
with their eyes until he disappeared within the
doorless opening to his home. When they got
back to camp Charlie was waiting with a dinner
of fried rabbit, potatoes, fresh tomatoes, and
melons purchased from the Indians that morning.
As they sat in the brush dining-room, within
sound of the pleasant waterfall, around the well-spread
table, all were unanimous in declaring
that the viands could not have been surpassed.