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A COMPENDIUM
PREPARED BY OFFICERS OF THE
SUDAN GOVERNMENT.
EDITED
BY LIEUT.-COLONEL COUNT GLEICHEN, C.V.O., C.M.G.,
D.S.O. (Late Director of Intelligence, Sudan
Government and Egyptian Army, and Sudan Agent, Cairo.)
Volume
II.
(ROUTES.)
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S
LANE, PRINTERS IN ORDINARY TO HIS MAJESTY.
And to be purchased, either
directly or through any Bookseller, from
WYMAN AND SONS, Ltd., Fetter Lane E.C.;
or
OLIVER & BOYD, Edinburgh; or
E. PONSONBY, 116, Grafton Street,
Dublin.
1905. Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence.
(Wt. 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S
3874)
EDITORIAL NOTE TO VOLUME II.
The Routes in this Volume have been arranged according to the
Chapters in Vol. I.
Additional matter is given in the shape of an Appendix,
describing the main Routes leading out of the Sudan.
Almost the whole Volume has been edited by Captain H. H. S.
Morant (Assistant Director of Intelligence), to whom my best thanks
are due; Captain W. Lloyd is chiefly responsible for the excellent
Routes in Kordofan.
Intermediate places where water is to be found (except those
obviously on a river) are given in italics.
[It being impossible to provide a map showing even all the
terminal places mentioned, intending travellers are referred to the
map at the end
of Vol. I, and to the Sudan Ordnance Survey Maps (scale,
1:250,000), a list of which is given in Vol. I,
p. 349.]
A certain number of copies of each Chapter in this Volume have
been printed and bound separately in strong paper covers for
practical use when travelling. Application in Egypt should be made
to the Director of Intelligence, Egyptian War Office, Cairo, or to
any Bookseller in Great Britain, of whom copies may be obtained,
price One Shilling each.
CHAPTER III. — 1.— No. 6 STATION (S.G.R.) to DERAHEIB. — 2.—SUAKIN to BERBER. — (α) NORTHERLY ROUTE. [2] — (β)—BERBER to SUAKIN (SOUTHERLY ROUTE). — 3.—BERBER to KASSALA. — 4.—SUAKIN to TOKAR. — 5.—TRINKITAT to TOKAR, viâ TEB. — 6.—(α) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ TAMANEB and KHOR ARAB. — (β) SUAKIN to ERKOWIT, viâ KOLKALAI PASS. — 7.—(α) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ BARAMIL PLAINS. — (β) ERKOWIT to SINKAT, viâ KHOR GEBET. — 8.—KASSALA to SUAKIN, viâ FILIK, MAMAN, and KHOR SITARAB. — 9.—TOKAR to KASSALA, viâ KHOR BARAKA. — 10.—KASSALA to MAMAN direct . — 11.—ADARAMA to BIR OSHI (KHOR LANGEB). — 12.—EL GETITE ( in KHOR ARAF) to ADARAMA, viâ BIR DELAI and TENDERA. — 13.—UMBREGA (R. SETIT) TO SOFI (R. ATBARA).
(NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
R.E., December, 1902.
General.The road described below
is only one of several that might have been taken, but I believe it
is perhaps the most direct. The portions between No. 6 and Murrat,
and along the Wadi Alagi must be common to all routes.
Nature of road.There are no
gradients on the road sufficiently steep to form a serious obstacle
to laden camels, but there are a good many places after the Wadi
Abu Bard is left, where the stony nature of the road is trying for
the feet of plains camels, though the camels of the country seem to
make nothing of it.
Water.Water is scarce and not
always good. If marching with hamla,[1] arrangements should be made
to carry at least two nights’ water.
Fuel and shade.Once the W. Telat
Abda has been reached, fuel and shade can always be obtained with
very little management. Till then there is practically no shade. No
fuel between No. 6 and Murrat; a little between Murrat and W. Telat
Abda.
Grain.No grain is obtainable.
Sheep and goats and some milk can be obtained wherever Arabs are
met with. The position of the Arabs and their flocks depends on the
season of the year, and the distribution of the previous year’s
rainfall.
Place.
Hamla Hours.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
No. 6 Station (S.G.R.)
—
—
—
—
No. 6 Station on Halfa-Khartoum Railway,
127 miles from Halfa, and 1,555 feet above sea level.
British foreman. Telegraph office.
No station buildings nor accommodation
for persons detained there.
Well with steam pump gives 12,000 gallons
daily. Water contains some salts, but drinkable. Nile water can be
obtained for small parties from station supply. Some “selem” bushes
give firewood and a little grazing for camels. No inhabitants
except railway staff. No supplies.
Is the base of the staff of the Egypt and
Sudan Mining Syndicate now developing Um Nabari or Nabadi
mine.
7
7
—
—
The track, now pretty well marked, makes
straight for the N. end of J. Keheli, after rounding which it makes
for J. Mindara, keeping a couple of miles to the N. of it. Road
practically level and mostly good trotting surface, though sand a
little heavy in places.
3¼
10¼
—
—
Road crosses a low saddle and descends
into one of the branches of the Wadi Murrat, amongst a lot of low
tangled hills. After following the wadi for 300 yards or so,
another saddle is crossed to cut off a bend, after which the wadi
is followed till it joins the main wadi, just before the fort of
Murrat is reached.
Murrat
1
11¼
—
34
The engineer of the Egypt and Sudan
Mining Syndicate has fitted a pump in one of the wells in the wadi,
which gives cleaner, though not less bitter water than before. The
Arabs and Berberi servants drink it uncomplainingly, but Europeans
are advised to avoid it if they can. About 10 miles slightly N. of
W. up the main Wadi Murrat is the site of the Um Nabari or Nabadi
mine, now being developed by the Company. Road quite easy along the
wadi.
1½
35½
On leaving Murrat
fort the track keeps down the wadi for 1½ miles, then turns off to
the left over somewhat stony ground, and, crossing a saddle and the
head of another affluent of the Wadi Murrat about 1½ miles further
on, descends easily into the basin of the Wadi Dayob. Across
slightly undulating ground, aiming just to the left of J. Abu
Dayob, a rocky sand-covered hill (with a pillar on the top) which,
though only 200 or 300 feet high, stands up well amidst its
surroundings, and turns down the wadi past its northern foot.
1
12¼
1½
37
1¾
14
4
41
½
41½
½
14½
½
42
Along the wadi passing a gorge about 50
yards wide; wadi then turns rather to S.E. There is some camel
grazing here.
1
15½
—
—
Road now turns to left out of wadi, and,
after crossing low ridges for about one hour and passing near some
“selem” bushes in one of the wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 mile
broad, and heads generally for J. Kerar Berar.
½
16
3¾
45¾
Half-a-mile further on J. Mosiai (pillar
on top) is at right angles about 1 to 2 miles distant on left.
1½
17½
—
—
Track leaves plain
over low ridges and descends by gentle slope obliquely to Wadi
Mosiai. There are a few of the peculiar dom palms of the country
above where wadi is struck, and a little “selem” and some scrubby
plants below. Track keeps down wadi generally, till it gets well
clear of the low hills, when it turns half left over open plain,
good going, and passes an isolated patch of “selem” bushes in
Gabgaba.
1
18½
—
—
1¾
20¼
—
—
W. Gabgaba
2
22¼
16
61¾
The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ to 1½ miles
wide in places, consisting of several channels separated by flat
gravel. The bed itself is sandy, honeycombed with rat holes, and
very bad going. Immense quantities of the “handal” plant grow in
it, and in years of good rainfall dura is cultivated.
2¼
24½
6
67¾
Track, leaving the wadi half right, keeps
over a gravel plain with gentle slopes till it strikes the W. Telat
Abda just outside the low hills.
There is plenty of “selem” in the wadi,
giving good camel grazing and abundance of firewood.
Bir Telat Abda
3
27½
8¼
76
Track keeps up wadi, occasionally making
short cuts to right to get better going, as wadi is heavy in
places, to well at foot of rather higher hill on left bank which
has two stone pillars.
The well gives good water, but not very
much of it. About ¼ mile higher up under the right bank where the
wadi forks is another well generally used for watering camels. From
here the roads to Abu Tabag and Naba branch. That to Naba keeps
straight on, that is up the right-hand branch of the fork. Naba is
about 17 miles from Telat Abda, whence it draws its drinking water.
Near Telat Abda well is a sayal tree that gives good shade.
J. Liseiwi
3
30½
6
82
The track starts up the Khor Liseiwi, or
left-hand branch of the fork, past the upper well, but soon turns
to right from it to cut off a corner, and drops into the khor again
at a water hole (generally dry) under Jebel Liseiwi (marked by a
pillar).
W. Abaraga
2
32½
6
88
Keeps up khor and, crossing a low saddle,
descends into Wadi Abaraga.
¼
32¾
¾
88¾
Keeps up wadi, which
is well wooded with selem, sayal and the single-stemmed fan palm
(Medemia argun), and passes some wells close under left
bank. The wadi flows through very broken low hills, 200 to 400 feet
high.
½
33¼
1½
90¼
1¼
34½
3½
93¾
Track issues on to open space where the
hills recede and wadis come in from all directions.
—
—
4
97¾
Track now turns N.E.,
passing between some low hills over gravelly plain, and turns S.E.
up wadi, now confined between rounded reddish hills. The palms have
now ceased, but selem is still found. The hills soon get lower and
wadi less confined.
—
—
4¼
102
—
—
4½
106½
A track from Hesmet Omar.
—
—
2¼
108¾
Saddle at head of
Wadi Abaraga is reached, easy ascent and descent commenced over
gently sloping gravel to the Wadi Abu Bard which flows through an
open valley 2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of wood in wadi.
Wadi Abu Bard
7¾
42¼
2¼
111
—
—
2
113
The same direction is
continued across the wadi till a low saddle is crossed, and track
descends a branch of Abu Bard for a little more than a mile; then
across an open space N.E. up an affluent of the same branch till it
crosses a low saddle at its head and descends into an affluent of
the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This part is very stony and severe on plains
camels, though the gradients are not heavy. The track keeps down
the valley, crossing a couple of affluents bounded by low hills,
till it reaches another low, but stony saddle, whence it descends
into and crosses an affluent of the Wadi Abu Tabag or Wadi Ga;
after another 2 miles of stony ground the track descends into
another branch of the Abu Tabag wadi, which it follows till it
reaches the well.
—
—
3½
116½
—
—
5
121½
—
—
2
123½
Abu Tabag
5½
47¾
2
125½
The valley opens out a bit here, though
immediately over the well there are low hills which still carry the
breastworks erected by Beshir Bey’s men as a protection against
dervishes.
The well is about 20 feet deep, of which
the lower 12 feet, is revetted with stone. Plenty of water. Many
small partridges.
An Inspector’s rest house has been built
here. Some fine sayal trees.
There are a number of dom palms trying to
come up, but none have succeeded in showing any trunk yet.
The wadi here is, I believe, called the
Wadi Ga, but I am not sure.
Wadi Ga
—
—
2
127½
The track continues
down the wadi for 2 miles and turns off to the left over flat and
undulating ground; easy going for some miles, the general direction
being a little to the left of J. Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga
(plenty of selem) and cuts over a low saddle at the north end of
Kirmai.
4¼
52
10
137½
Wadi Abu Kitabab
—
—
2
139½
After about 2 more miles, heavy going,
over sand-covered ridges the track descends into the Wadi Abu
Kitabab, which joins the Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below where the
track crosses it. There are plenty of trees of several different
sorts.
2
54
3
142½
Road continues up wadi for 3 miles to a
point where it forks.
—
—
4
146½
The southern branch
is also called Abu Kitabab. The track to Sohanit and Onib, viâ
Mashushenai well (very little water), ascends it. The
other branch is called Ebeirid. After ascending it for 4 miles, low
saddle is crossed; after 4½ more miles of mostly very stony ground,
ending in a short and very rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala is
reached. This wadi is here well wooded. Lots of marakh. The track
ascends it a short distance and then turns up a side khor, out of
it to left into another and over an easy saddle down into Wadi
Bitna or Butna; confined bed, high hills on right bank.
Wadi Abdelala
3½
57½
4½
151
1½
59
4½
155½
Top of Mashushenai just visible, a few
selem and a good many samr trees.
Wells
1½
60½
4
159½
Track keeps down wadi, cutting off one or
two corners, stony, but not very bad going. The bed gets narrower
and low cliffs more perpendicular till wells are reached at a place
where a projecting cliff appears to bar the passage. Just before
reaching it some tombs are passed.
There are two wells or water holes about
5 feet in diameter, surface of water 6 feet below bed of wadi. Lots
of good water.
2
62½
4½
164
The track continues, original direction,
for about ½ mile and then turns E., and a mile further on meets the
Wadi Elei coming from the S.E. The united wadi now flows a little
E. of N., the hills diminish and the valley increases in width and
the vegetation decreases. After 2 miles the track turns off to
right, up what was a good track a year or so ago, but is now barred
by waves of sand. After some three miles, most part of which is
very heavy going, the track descends into the broad and ill defined
bed of an affluent of the Wadi Elei. Little grazing.
3½
66
10
174
Over bare undulating
plain, dotted with hummocky ridges of decomposed granite more or
less covered with sand. Good going till a low and easy watershed is
crossed and track descends easily to Wadi Nasari, a broad well
wooded wadi that comes from Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Alagi a
few miles N. of where the track strikes it. Track crosses wadi in
the direction of Jebel Eigat and, passing through some low hills,
reaches the Wadi Alagi. Track quite easy.
Wadi Nasari
1¼
67¼
3
177
Wadi Alagi
1½
68¾
4
181
The Wadi Alagi here is at least ½ mile
wide, bounded by low hills on both banks, but rising higher behind
on the right bank. It contains many refreshingly green trees of
several sorts, marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, arak, &c.
Wadi Taimurit
2
70¾
6
187
Up wadi, which narrows to about 300 to
400 yards. It is joined on the left bank by a khor called Taimurit,
up which there is a waterhole, good water. On the right bank
opposite it is a hill conspicuously higher than the majority of
those that overhang the wadi.
On both banks are remains of houses, and
a quartz reef is conspicuous on the left bank. The latitude of
junction of Taimurit and Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so most, if not all,
the reef is north of 22°. It shows marks of having been
prospected.
Wadi Neshd
1
71¾
3
190
One hour further on, where the wadi
changes the direction of its flow from S.W. to N.W., some tombs
close under the right bank are a landmark for the Wadi Neshd, which
comes in on the left bank opposite. There is good water in the Wadi
Neshd.
Wadi Kamotit
2
73¾
6
196
The wadi now begins to wind more. Two
hours further on the Wadi Kamotit on right bank is passed. There is
good water a short way up it.
Deraheib
4¼
78
12
208
The wadi now begins to wriggle about
without, however, much decreasing in width. The hills on either
side continue to be of no great height, and in one or two places
the track crosses low saddles to cut off corners; good trees all
the way.
Water
—
—
—
—
At Deraheib is a ruined castle of stone
set in mud, with two or three pointed arches set in lime. Another
building of nearly equal size in plan, but not so high, and the
ruins of a number of houses and shelters are on the left bank. On
the right bank, nearly opposite, are a number of ruined stone
houses arranged in streets, and covering 3 to 4 acres. They are
built in stone and mud, but a few arches in lime are to be seen.
The ruins are evidently greatly filled in and might possibly repay
excavation. There are small stone shelters of the same kind up
various khors. The nearest water now is 2 or 3 miles off
up a wadi that joins the left bank of the Alagi about 1½ miles
further up.
The latitude of the N.W. corner of the ruined
castle is 21° 56′ 48·5″.
On the low hills on left bank, within ½
mile of the fort, are a number of shafts sunk in the reef which is
here very apparent. In December there were very few Arabs in the
Wadi Alagi. In the summer there are many.
The rate of the hamla has been taken at
2½ to 3 miles per hour, as, I think, my camels went. Neither times
nor distances, therefore, can be relied on absolutely.
Roads.There are two main routes
between Suakin and Berber, both joining at Obak. The first,
viâ Tambuk—Dissibil—Kokreb—Ariab and Obak, the most
northerly of the two, is the usual caravan route. Major Prout
(1877) states that “this route is quite practicable for wagons, the
greater part of it being indeed an admirable road for wheels; some
difficulty would, however, be found in getting wagons over the
passes of Hareitri and Kokreb, and the dunes of Obak. At these
three points some work, not much, but rather expensive, would have
to be done to make the route a good wagon road.” The chief
difficulty lies in the arid stretch of 114 miles between Ariab and
Berber, for which Obak, lying about halfway, provides the only
water.
The second route, viâ Sinkat—Hormareb—Amet—Rowaya and
Obak is 5 or 6 miles shorter, but not so well known. It is
occasionally used by caravans, but although the water supply is
good, the road is bad about Sinkat.
Major W. S. Sparkes, October,
1897, and December and January, 1897-98.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Suakin
—
—
Road runs in north-westerly direction
alongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road,
and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plain
covered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise all
way to Handub.
Handub Well
10
10
Water here practically unlimited,
slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels.
Water about 20 feet down.
3
13
Track enters hills, which gradually close
in on either side, going still good and gentle rise.
Otao Well
6
19
Two wells here, giving good water, holes
in ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for two
companies infantry and their transport. Formation level of old
railway ends here.
Tambuk Well
5
24
Good water, supply practically unlimited,
now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fuel
and grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road,
Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down.
2
26
To here going stony and rough, then
through a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs all
along.
Khor Ossaud
5
31
A sudden, short,
sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, and
down to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellent
going.
Olip
1
32
Khor Adit
1
33
Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat,
which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles,
many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camels
grazing. Junction of khor, called Olip.
3
36
Track bends suddenly to right, and
crosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut,
main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. This
would make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles from
Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could be
found if sunk for.
Dissibil (well)
7
43
One large well, which is merely hole
scooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar water
holes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practically
unlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing.
Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs;
many gazelle and rock grouse and doves.
4
47
Track crosses small pass or agaba, thence
runs under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chain
of low stone hills on right, going fair all time.
Odrus
7
54
Track debouches on
wide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; is
covered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up to
here, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrow
khor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity of
dura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and to
eastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. This
is 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting place
for infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel,
and grazing. A gradual rise from here.
Tekarti
6
60
3¼
63¼
On right of track, under low hill,
several stone huts of Hamdab tribe.
2
65¼
Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses
outlying stony ridges of Amud range.
2
67¼
A sharp gradient and
highest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level.
A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which,
however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms,
leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stone
hills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, and
patches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, known
as Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stone
revetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough wood
huts on other side of well.
Rain pools found all along edges of khor,
and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantity
good water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few months
after rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere in
khor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazing
and fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rock
grouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long.
1
73
Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plain
called Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated.
1½
74½
A few huts on right, and some dura grown
in good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel and
grazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found.
4
78½
Track crosses low rough ridges for ½
mile.
Salalat (well)
½
79
Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, a
sandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, is
Bir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about
40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600
gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wells
could easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and some
fair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on as
permanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years.
3½
82½
A slight rise brings track to level
plateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leading
down to Khor Furd.
2½
85
A very large patch cultivation dependent
on rainfall, nothing could be grown this year.
5½
90½
Across a neck, high irregular-shaped
rocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left.
Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground,
suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From here
vegetation gradually ceases.
2
92½
Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridge
with high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and track
along base of outlying spurs and ridges.
Khor Kokreb
3½
96
Agaba or pass leading
to Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep and
rocky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor is
entered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, water
a few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but others
could be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimited
supply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well good
camp ground, water, fuel, and grazing.
Hayaba (well)
1
97
Sarbit (well)
1½
98½
Revetted stone well, good water about 10
feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, and
grazing.
4
102½
Track, now well to right of khor, runs
over a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand,
then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rocky
chain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in.
1½
104
Hills now come in from north at right
angles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under these
hills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection of
tukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thick
thorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front and
flanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosen
position as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and short
defile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widens
somewhat.
El Matar (well)
1½
105½
A hole scooped in ground, good water a
few feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could be
quickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, and
fuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two old
graveyards.
Abd El Haabit (well)
1½
107
Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, one
on track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor,
good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, before
refilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but could
easily be reopened.
All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb,
which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here and
there, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor in
all about 10 miles, when it branches to right.
Track now enters wide open plain of black
stone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarse
patches of grass.
5
112
Stone ceases, and firm sand takes its
place.
2½
114½
Track bends to right among patches of
huge boulders.
Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain,
a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-like
masses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leads
straight on to it.
Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half way
to Berber)
1½
116
Above-mentioned landmark is passed, it
lies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth,
oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while other
block dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerable
lean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, on
left, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by natives
as half way to Berber.
Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga
2½
118½
Track now winds for 2 miles round base of low
stony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grass
and stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left also
spread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hills
on right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain called
Wadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, but
indifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. Yungul
Plain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. A
little over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarse
grass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Two
connected hillocks of white marble being a prominent feature
immediately to left of track.
6½
125
3
128
The Ariab valley is entered, it is thick
with scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats,
&c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report there
is a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, but
that it gives but little water.
Three miles up valley are Ariab wells.
One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practically
unlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150
yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one gives
plentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good camp
ground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rock
grouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goes
south-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left,
somewhat bad going.
Wide level plain, covered coarse grass,
good going.
Wadi O’Duruk
—
—
Level plain, good going, some coarse
scrub, stunted trees.
Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passes
to left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across a
small khor, and then winds among low stone hills.
Wadi Temartua
—
—
Good going, partly firm sand, partly
stony.
Khor Laiameb
44
175
A broad khor running about east and west,
almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain,
about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarse
grass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing Khor
Laiameb again goes over hilly stony ground.
Jebel O’Fik
2½
177½
On right of track country open and level
again, a few trees and some grass here.
Wadi Tatua
—
—
After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatua
is entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen in
distance; good going.
5½
183
Across a low ridge, going still
good.
Plain becomes covered with small mimosa
bushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and drifts
are entered.
Obak (well)
9
192
Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons when
full; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Natives
say that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but have
fallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40
feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel.
For 3 miles after Obak track lies through
heavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, only
occasional sand.
14
206
Some trees and grass here; suitable camp
ground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well.
Jebel Eremit
2
208
A low granite hill on left of track.
Abu Odfa
5
213
Curious-shaped mass of rock on right of
track.
Wadi Abu Selim
21
234
Some trees and grass; water could
probably be found. Site of proposed well.
Maho Bey (well)
11
245
Good revetted well, 40 feet down, covered
by mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply,
good camping ground, fuel and grazing.
Berber
6
251
Except for first 3 miles all going from
Obak to Berber excellent.
One well, hole in khor; good water could
be developed.
Tambuk
5
Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited
supply.
Dissibil
19
One well, good water hole in khor, at
present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be
increased at will.
Tamai
25
In Khor Hareitri; well also by some
called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water;
well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply
easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very
large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai.
Salalat
11
One and a-half miles to left of road, two
wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40
feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours
to refill.
Hayaba
18
Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met
immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically
unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time.
Sarbit
1½
In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet
down, revetted stone.
Matar
7
Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water,
supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering
place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.
Id El Haabit
1½
Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half
battalion, could be developed.
Ariab
24
One very large well, revetted stone, good
water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now
choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and
transport, and could be developed.
Obak
61
One large stone revetted well, giving
excellent supply of good water.
Maho Bey
52
Large stone revetted well, good water,
large supply.
The mileage is estimated by pace of camels, and there appears to
be but little difference between the northerly and southerly
routes; the Arabs, however, call the south road the longer.
Water supply is quite equal to that on north road, and all
wells, being more or less deep sunk, do not get fouled by animals
drinking direct from them, as is the case with surface wells, such
as Dissibil, Hayaba, &c. These wells are also much more used by
Arabs for watering their flocks than those on other track, and,
without exception, they are surrounded by diruks, or earth-made
drinking pans, which are scarce on other road.
A long rope and deluk, or native sort of bucket of thin hide,
would be required at each well.
For movements of troops the north road is infinitely to be
preferred, as going throughout is comparatively easy for all arms.
On south road, numerous agabas, or passes over the hills, make
going hard and difficult. The big agaba between Sinkat and Tamaneb
is almost impossible for wheeled artillery.
(β) SOUTHERLY ROUTE, viâ OBAK, RAUAI, KHOR ARAB,
and SINKAT.
By Major W. S. Sparkes,
November, 1897.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Berber
—
—
Maho Bey
6
6
Vide report on north road.
Khor Abu Selim
11
17
„ „
Abu Odfa
21
38
„ „
Eramit
5
43
„ „
Obak Wells
16
59
„ „
Ofik
14
73
„ „
4½
77½
Track to Rauai branches away to right.
Also a track to Rauai a few miles after leaving Obak.
1½
79
Through low stony hills and Khor Laiameb
is struck; track runs straight along khor. Going good; a gradual
rise; Khor Wusser runs side by side with Laiameb, and appears to
form part of it.
17
96
Track leaves Khor Laiameb and crosses low
neck of rock; low black stone hills on right hand; scattered
boulders, some of similar shape to Abu Odfa on left hand. Hills
gradually close in, and track crosses stony but not difficult
agaba, or pass, some ¾ mile long.
¾
96¾
A path to left leads over hills to
Ariab.
1¾
98½
Over stony khor, then into hills again,
and is stony, steep, bad going.
Rauai Wells
2
100½
Stony sort of square,
surrounded By stone hills, with a narrow khor running out each
corner. Large graveyard on right. A few mimosa trees and some
coarse grass. Indifferent camping ground. Wells ½ mile up a narrow,
rocky defile, running from east corner of square; two wells,
revetted stone, good water 15 feet down; practically unlimited
supply. This defile impassable for animals, which must go by easier
way over hills to south-west, and then down side of hill again to
the wells. Some rough drawings of camels, men, &c., scratched
on rocks round wells. Rock grouse and partridges here. Track now
runs north-west over short agaba, across a stony khor, and again an
agaba winding over bare, stony hills; bad going; then a long,
narrow, sandy khor; fair-going; then a rough, stony agaba leading
over hills called Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; thence into Khor
Thela, a short agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small khor same name, at
head of Ariab valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles west of north from
here; one well good water 30 feet down, enough for one battalion,
which would require 1½ hours to refill; good grazing ground and
fuel. Some gazelle and grouse; north road about 3 miles from well.
Going from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a succession of stony
agabas. Prom here cross stony neck, then across head of Ariab
valley. Pass Jebel Bokmaali on left hand, cross a stony neck,
and
Makadia Wells
14½
115
Yungul
4
119
Reach Wadi Yungul; north road about 8
miles to left; 4 miles, then cross another stony neck, and Wadi
Beakwa, called by Arabs halfway to Suakin.
Khor Atbai
7½
126½
Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross old
dura patch, none this year on account of bad rains. Over two sandy
and stony ridges and
Wadi Kokreb
3½
130
Enter Kokreb valley; good going, firm
sand, and thick with trees and shrubs. Over some stony ridges
and
Khor Olowe
2½
132½
Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of
Kokreb.
Magwala Wells
3½
136
Two wells, good water, 75 feet down,
sufficient for one battalion; would require some hours to refill;
these wells are said by Arabs to be oldest on road; they are
revetted granite, which is deeply grooved all round from constant
hauling up of water. Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, who have
huts close here. Many hods, or earth-made drinking pans, round each
well. Some old Dervish “tukuls,” which used to be occupied by a
detachment, for collecting taxes. Good camp ground, fuel and
grazing, pigeons and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells of Abd El
Haabit lie some 7 or 8 miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, about 8
miles to north-east; Jebel Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on north
road, is seen some 6 miles to north of west from here.
Khor now gradually gets bare and
intersected by strips of stone.
4
140
Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, going
indifferent, cut up by small watercourses over a ridge.
Wadi Habub
3
143
Wadi Habub. Going still indifferent,
across many ridges running into khor, 5½ miles on; track runs along
edge of hills, and then enters the Komotitai hills by very stony
and difficult agaba or pass, about 1½ miles long, then into sandy
khor, full of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up this khor to the
Kamotitai Wells
11
154
Wells of same name, i.e.,
Kamotitai, three wells, revetted stone, good water 25 feet down
unlimited supply. Many other wells in this khor now closed up; much
used by Arabs, and at each well numerous hods. Good camp ground,
fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and pigeons in abundance.
A short way past wells, track bends to left
past large graveyard; then across alternate khors and ridges;
indifferent going.
Khor Arab
7
161
Thick with trees of all sorts, and
considerable cultivation in good season. Two deep watercourses
crossed soon after entering khor; 3 miles on the track runs to
north of khor, over stony ridges, with low stone hills on either
hand.
Jebel Okwer
7
168
Jebel Okwer begins on left of khor,
several small pyramid-shaped hills on right, and khor stretching
away beyond them.
Khor Amate Wells
3½
171½
Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate begins;
track running across large patch of old cultivation into a sandy
khor; one well some 200 yards to right, another ½ mile straight on.
There is a third well, now closed. These wells, revetted wood, good
water 12 feet down; supply practically unlimited; many hods. Good
camp ground, fuel and grazing. A stone hut close to well, and place
thick with sheep and goats, and some cattle.
Track from here runs north-west, over
small agaba into narrow khor thick with trees. Okwer range still on
left; low hills on right 3½ miles, and hills on right hand, and
track again enters main Khor Amate. Batta range on far right and in
front; ½ mile on Okwer range ends.
4½
176
Track to wells of Abu Goloda
runs north from here.
3½
179½
End of Khor Amate, and Batta range
entered by fairly easy agaba, running east 1½ miles; then cross
small stony khor, then another agaba through smaller hills, going
bad.
Hormareb Well
3½
183
Jebel Homugwer away in distance to right,
¾ mile off track to north in small khor same name, Bir Hormareb;
one well, good water 25 feet down; supply about 1,000 gallons;
requires some hours to refill. Several hods round well; good
grazing and fuel, indifferent ground. Another well
reported, same description, 3 or 4 miles further up khor to north.
From here bad going, over stony ridges and small khors.
Wadi Ma’areit
3½
186½
Large graveyard on right, and track turns
sharp to left up Wadi Ma’areit, a broad level valley, running north
and south; good going, and considerable cultivation after good
rains. This year a few patches dura. North-west corner of valley
thickly studded with trees, and was in old days a favourite summer
resort of people from Suakin.
6½
193
Hills close right in on either side, and
the narrow wooded Khor Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; track
bends north-east, 1½ miles on, and cross a flat khor, with sparse
vegetation, thick with flocks.
Now over alternate rough ridges and small
ragged khors. 2½ miles down a sharp agaba into a small khor, green
and sweet smelling, then wind round base of hills miles, and enter
Khor Tabikuk.
Khor Tabikuk
7½
200½
Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a ridge,
and view Sinkat valley, green and thick with people and flocks;
down small agaba, over low ridge, and enter valley.
Sinkat Well
4½
205
One large well, good water 25 feet down;
unlimited supply. Several large gemmeiza trees round wells give
excellent shade; ruins old Egyptian fort also close to wells. Large
village in valley, with several thousand people, built partly straw
huts, partly Arab tents, small bazaar, and large stores of
gum.
Good ground, fuel and grazing. Khor Adit
leads from north Sinkat valley towards Khor Ossaud.
Track from well runs east across valley,
then over low ridge across two deep watercourses, and up a stony,
gradually-narrowing khor, which winds through the hills.
Khor Gebet
6½
211½
A short but bad agaba, a small khor, a
ridge, another small khor, another ridge and Khor Gebet; about 3
miles up this khor to right are two wells.
3
214½
Commencement of the great Sinkat Agaba or
Pass, along which track runs for 3½ miles; very bad, difficult
going, practically impassable for wheeled artillery, and would be
altogether impracticable but for the work done years ago by Mumtaz
Pasha, then Governor of Suakin. In this agaba the Khor Gwob rises,
which, gradually widening, eventually reaches the sea some 7 miles
south of Suakin.
Khor Gwob
3½
218
End of agaba, and good going over firm
sand; gradual descent down khor, which gradually widens. Hills on
either side, thick with tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge boulders
on each side also protruding from bed of khor. Pools of water, with
thick reeds here and there, in which were many teal; also many
partridges, rock grouse, and pigeons in khor.
Tamanib
6
224
Unlimited supply, good running water;
fair camp ground; excellent grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle
grazing here.
Road now leaves Khor Gwob and turns to
right; runs over low ridges, with small khors between; full of
gazelle, ariel and hares.
10
234
Hills cease, and a straight down-hill run
into Suakin, over plain covered with coarse vegetation.
Suakin
10
244
Suakin.
Compiled in Intelligence Office,
Khartoum, from Various Sketches and Reports, June, 1902.
This route is very difficult to map or describe so as to be of
use to the traveller, as there are hardly half a dozen unmistakable
objects along it by which he could identify his position.
As the Atbara dries up, it leaves a series of pools along its
bed. Where the banks allow of these pools being approached by
animals, the Arabs’ flocks are taken to water, and paths are beaten
or cut through the bush leading to these meshras.
Guides.The ordinary Arab guide,
even if he has been in the habit of travelling by this road for
years, knows only a small number of these meshras, i.e.,
those most conveniently situated for the class of journey he has
been in the habit of performing, and only one or two of the
countless tracks. The only people who know all the small meshras
off the road, and they perhaps over a limited portion of the river,
are the Arabs (Hadendoas) who are grazing their flocks there. If
the traveller, therefore, because he is marching with troops or for
any other reason, wishes to use the less well-known meshras, he
must depend on local inquiries and should, therefore, have with him
men who speak Hadendoa.
Another great difficulty is the comparatively small number of
men who know the names of any except the chief meshras.
Consequently the average guide makes the names he knows extend over
the whole length of the river. Where one ends, another begins. The
Arabs grazing their flocks by the Atbara, on the other hand, will
give you names for each little bit of the river, but these names
are of little value, as no one else knows them.
Rest houses.There are rest houses
at intervals of about 20 miles between Berber and Kassala.
Grazing.There is good grazing for
camels practically the whole way.
Travellers.Persons travelling by
themselves in the hot weather may find it best to march very early
in the morning, halt at water, and march again near sunset,
carrying enough water for the night-halt away from the river.
Supplies.No supplies of any sort
are to be got along road, except perhaps milk and sheep.
Game.There is good fishing in the
Atbara. Gazelle, bustard and ariel are seen along the route in
localities, varying with the season. Wild asses are numerous north
of Goz Regeb.
Inhabitants.Some Bisharin are met,
and a good many nomad Hadendoas.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Berber
—
—
From Berber the road runs between the
river and the railway.
Darmali
13
13
A mud built village
on the Nile; the usual road now branches southwards, crosses the
railway and than a bare, gravelly, waterless plain to Khor El Hudi.
(If preferred, the Atbara can be followed by continuing along the
Nile to Atbara Station, which is about 7 miles from Darmali.)
Khor El Hudi
17
30
Khor Abadar or Abu Adar
8
38
From El Hudi, where the remains of the
Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are still visible, the road skirts the river
which is fringed with dom palms and other bush to Khor Abadar, near
the junction of which there is a small stone wall enclosure and the
remains of another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.
Khor El Hilg (Rest House)
19
57
From here the road cuts off an angle from
the river and lies across open gravelly desert till Khor El Hilg is
reached.
(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s zeriba
and the battle of the Atbara, is passed at the 12th mile, about 5
miles to the west.) There is dense bush about here, and the ground
is likely to be swampy in the rains.
Sheikh El Sebib’s House (Rest
House).
3½
60½
The house stands on
slightly rising ground. After passing this the country continues to
be broken by small khors until after passing Gemmeiza, a good
halting place, but much bush hereabouts.
Gemmeiza (Rest House)
12
72½
The country soon becomes open and level,
and is covered with scattered selem and sunt bushes. The river is
generally nowhere more than a mile and half to the west.
El Hagar
14½
87
Here there are rocks in the river
bed.
Khor El Fil
1
88
The going continues
excellent until reaching Khor Adarama which is about 1½ miles in
width and is marked by very thick scrub of sunt, talh, and tundub,
as well as by the badly cracked cotton soil indicative of standing
water.
Khor Adarama
8
96
Adarama (Rest House)
1½
97½
Adarama consists of a large number of mud
walled enclosures, scattered over about ¾ of a square mile of
ground. These are almost entirely deserted and mostly ruined. With
the exception of the inspector’s house, camel corps lines, and a
few tukls, there are practically no inhabited houses. In the dry
weather there are two water pools in the vicinity, one at the foot
of Khor Adarama, and another about ¾ mile higher up. The approach
to the river is easy, but the bank shelves steeply to the river bed
from a height of about 25 feet.
El Hejera
1½
99
A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is
passed.
Um Bashim
2
101
The name of this district. After passing
through two patches of bush about a mile apart, the country becomes
open and sandy, and sand ridges appear to the east.
El Siwan
8
109
Here the river may be approached, and
further on the track passes within a few yards of the river
bank.
Shellalab (Rest House near
here).
10½
119½
Shellalab, a sandy
hill covered with marakh bushes. From here the track continues to
the river bank, through scattered marakh bush, and sand hills lie
away to the east. The river can be approached almost anywhere, and
the path is never more than about ½ a mile from it. Jebel Ayob is
visible about 7 miles due east.
Gala Amarus
—
—
Meshra Baluk or Um Beiba (Rest
House).
21½
141
From here the path traverses scattered
bush, and in places badly cracked cotton soil, indicating the
existence of water in the rains, and gradually ascends an easy
slope on to the plateau, and thus cuts off a bend in the
river.
Debba Gulal
13
154
Debba Gulal.
Meshra
7
161
The descent from the plateau begins 3
miles further on, and the river is struck at a good meshra.
Meshra Mitateb (Rest
House).
3
164
The path continuing near the river,
Mitateb, the first meshra in the Hadendoa country, is reached. The
Bisharin country on right bank ends here, as also the Berber
Province; the Province of Kassala is now entered. Rest house
here.
From here the path gradually ascends a
gentle slope to the plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik and Erembat
soon become visible. Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr trees are
noticeable, of these samr predominate as Goz Regeb is
approached.
Goz Regeb (Rest House)
15
179
Two miles before
reaching old telegraph hut the road descends from the plateau, and
the river is reached at this hut, which forms a good halting place.
The village of Goz Regeb is situated on a slight eminence close to
the river on the left bank, and is marked by a few dom palms. Some
Government buildings are now in course of construction on the right
bank, the idea being that Goz Regeb should form a sanatorium for
Kassala during the rains. The direct track to Kassala and that in
general use leaves J. Erembat to the north, and strikes straight
across the level
plain. At about 38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in the bed of a
branch of the Gash, about 3 miles off the direct road. It has been
lately opened up, and has a good supply of water, and Arabs were
living here (March, 1902). There is little shade to be had on this
road until after passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet and other green
trees and bushes become numerous. On nearing the Gash, signs of
cultivation appear.
Bir Teishum (Rest House)
38
217
Khor Ebret
20
237
Khor Gash
5
242
Tukruf
1¾
243¾
Many wells in bed of Gash; unlimited
supply of water.
Kassala
2¾
246½
Destination.
Another Route may be taken from GOZ REGEB viâ
ASUBRI to KASSALA.
Goz Regeb
179
179
The track ascends to the plateau and
follows the edge of it, leaving the river several miles to the
west. There are several meshras, all of which, however, are almost
impossible to find without a guide.
Meshra Um Bereika
30
209
This meshra is somewhere about
half-way.
Asubri
35
244
Good meshra and shade.
Goz El Handal
8½
252½
About 5 miles after leaving the river for
Kassala, the road from Suweihil joins in, and rather thick laot and
kittr bush is traversed till reaching Goz El Handal, an open
gravelly plain with short grass extending for about 2 miles From
here to Umsiteiba there is little bush.
Umsiteiba
13
265½
A place where water stands in the rains;
not much shade.
Khor Garatet
3
268½
Rather swampy and difficult for camels in
the rains.
Khor Um Dahan
6
274½
Water stands in this khor in the rains.
It is about 6 yards wide and 3 feet deep.
Khor Kunti
6
280½
There are Arab settlements near here in
the rains for cultivation. After passing through some rather thick
laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, about 8 yards wide and 6 feet
deep, is crossed.
Khor Gash
4¼
284¾
Many marakh and kurmet bushes until the
Gash is reached.
Kassala
¾
285½
By Lieutenant A. M. Taggart, 1st
Bombay Lancers, July, 1896; Captain McKerrell, Cameron Highlanders,
December, 1897.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Suakin
—
—
For the first 25 miles the track is well
defined, and leads over hard ground never more than a mile or two
from the sea shore. During the next 6 miles it changes in
character, and for the last 25 miles leads through bushes and over
sandhills, the tracks varying according to the season and the
difficulties (drifting sand, &c.) to be encountered. There is
no water to be had on the way. A telegraph line leads direct from
Suakin to Tokar, but does not always follow the best road.
Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. direction, the
track is broad and distinct, passing over hard, sandy ground, with
a few bushes 1 to 3 feet high.
Khor Gwob
7½
7½
Crosses broad Khor Gwob.
3
10½
Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, approaches
sea shore, then bears away again. Near this point (4 hours from
Suakin) there are reported to have been some wells in 1885; water 6
feet down and brackish, hardly ever used.
2
12
Saw some trees due east, halfway to the
sea; said to be wells of Helub. Water bitter, and but
little used.
3
15
Track meets telegraph line.
2½
17½
Over rising ground. Extensive view in all
directions to the westward, well-defined khor trending north-west.
Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet high, ground hard and sandy, overlying coral.
Track descends again; then level ground.
Khor Asab
7½
25
Reached Khor Asab, which runs in from the
hills to the west; it is called half-way to Tokar. Here a track
branches off to the left, and leads to Teb.
6
31
Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes narrow
and indistinct. Bush thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.
Surface shifting sand, with clay
patches.
8
39
Crosses several small khors, sometimes
traces of water here. Bush very thick.
Khor Tamai
2
41
Small pool of rainwater (at certain
seasons only).
Mamuria
4
45
Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud house.
Telegraph line crossed three times since the 31st mile. Bush
becomes thicker.
Old Tokar
5
50
Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground and
thick bush.
Abdulla Rai
2
52
Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed tower,
with pointed roof), on an eminence, visible from some distance.
Nine wells here, water good—never known to fail, 54 feet down
(July). Large herds of camels and goats in the district. Thick bush
all round.
Track now due south-east to Tokar,
surface hard and clayey, covered in places with drifted sand; bush
3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal tower visible.
The whole road from Trinkitat to Tokar is
passable for all arms, and it is only when approaching Tokar that
the scrub about the country becomes thick enough to interfere with
the action of cavalry.
For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the road runs
along a broad embankment, on which for 1 mile an 18-inch gauge
railway has been laid down. After leaving the embankment there is a
sandy stretch, and then about 2 miles of narrow embankment just
broad enough for the railway line. This embankment in places has
rather a serpentine course, and would have to be straightened
before rails could be laid down.
El Teb
7
7
At El Teb there is a small fort, and an
ample supply of water at a depth of 17 feet.
Three wells inside fort and numerous ones
outside, these latter mostly for animals.
The water in the different wells varies
in quality, but is all slightly brackish. No ill effects, however,
appear to attend drinking it, and the men quartered there spoke
favourably of it.
The parapet of the fort is a brick wall
10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep.
Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet high. Scene of battle of El Teb,
29th February, 1884, just north of present fort.
There are two roads from Teb to Tokar,
both broad (30-50 yards) clearings through the bush. The “new” road
is the straightest, but leads over soft sandhills and is rarely
used. The other road bears gradually westwards a mile south of Teb,
and cannot be missed if the traveller keeps on the west edge of the
clearing. Excellent going for all arms. Bush on either side 3 to 10
feet high.
Abdulla Rai
8
15
Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla Rai
Fort, ½ mile west of track.
Tokar
2½
17½
Tokar.
By Major Powell, R.E.,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Suakin
—
—
Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate the
track leads S.W. up the plain reaching the granite outcrops of the
foot hills. Over broken, but easy ground to Tamaneb, where there is
running water.
Tamaneb
8
18
The track passes W.
of Tamaneb and ascends the flat valley bottom of Khor Gwob to 22
miles, where the junction with the Khor Nagit is reached. Leaving
the route to Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the track turns S.W. up
Khor Nagit till 27 miles, and then crosses a short rocky agaba into
Khor Manab. Descending this easy valley, at 29½ miles the junction
with Khor Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge the track ascends the
hillside about 150 feet by a different rock path descending into
the valley at 30½ miles. Up the valley, easy going, for about a
mile pass running water (brackish and unpleasant), then
ascend by steep zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 at worst), after ½
mile along the steep hillside cross the valley and rise by a steep
path to the saddle separating Khor Arab from the Khor Dahand.
Descend into the latter by a rocky path and, after ascending with
difficulty the rocky torrent bed for another ½ mile, reach the foot
of the Agatba agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of ¾ mile brings one
to the summit, after which the route crosses easy rises and dips to
Erkowit at mile 39.
Erkowit
21
39
Good hill camels lightly laden took 11
marching hours from Erkowit to Suakin by this route, and would take
about 14 hours to ascend. The track is not fit for horses or fully
laden mules.
By Major Powell, R.E.,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Suakin
—
—
Track leaves Suakin
S.S.W. over the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor Gwob, a wide open
wadi with low banks and thick bush. This Khor is occasionally
impassable when in flood. About mile 16 the road reaches the
granite outcrops of the foothills, and descends into a wadi at
Taharoi (mile 17), where there are usually several wells much
resorted to for watering flocks. This year only one well and that
almost dry. Depth to water usually 10 feet.
Taharoi
17
17
Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, leaving
J. Gumberit to E. At mile 20 usually a well, but dry this year.
Then S.W. into the Khor Dahand at 25 miles; track enters the hills
and goes for 3 miles up the easy valley. At mile 28 there is
water in the hill to S. and several Hadendoa tukls.
Track then takes to hillside, rising by
zigzags up the end of a spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 to the
ridge, then very steeply 1 in 3 to another col, by short zigzags
and rocky steps; very bad for pack animals, but good hill camels
get up with light loads. Track descends along hillside for about 1
mile; all green, with shrubs, grass and ferns. Francolin, partridge
and quail plentiful. Some bad places in descent, then easy path,
and again short difficult rise to the edge of the Erkowit
plateau.
Total ascent from Khor Dahand a little
over 2,000 feet.
Camels took 3 hours. The track is not fit
to ride over.
Erkowit
17
34
After about ¾ mile Erkowit is
reached.
Leaving this route at mile 20 a track
leads up Khor Masilli, S. of Dahand; the bad ascent on this is
shorter, but equally bad, and the whole distance is longer.
By Major Powell, R.E.,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Erkowit
—
—
South over easy
ground to head of Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of the khor W.N.W.
Leaving the khor the track rises for ¼ mile over a stony slope,
reaching the Baramil Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For 14 miles
the track runs W.N.W. over the firm surface of the plains. Large
herds of ariel are seen, a few flocks and nomad Arabs, but no
water. Down stony and occasionally narrow khor N.W. to Towai Wells,
which are at side of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair and
plentiful.
Towai Wells
18¾
18¾
Sinkat
2¾
21½
Down Khor Towai over a low stony rise and
descend W.N.W.; wide khor until it joins the open Sinkat Valley and
reaches the well and ruins of the old Fort at 21½ miles.
By Major Powell, R.E.,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Erkowit
—
—
Route descends the valley W.S.W. from
Erkowit by rocky surface track over ridges and dips, rising after
2½ miles by a stony ascent to the edge of Baramil plateau. This
length is the worst part of the route, it is practicable, but not
good for loaded camels, and is easily capable of improvement by
unskilled labour.
Gebet Well
14¼
14¼
Along Baramil
plateau, W. for about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over gentle ascent, and
cross an easy but stony agaba, and descent N. down a khor leading
to the open valley of Gebet. No obstacle. Gentle descent N.W. to
the well at 14¼ miles. Water good; large flocks and herds; one well
30 feet deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. 3 miles, where route is
joined by the direct track from Suakin to Sinkat, viâ the
Sinkat agaba, then W. 1 mile to a short stony agaba leading into
the Khor Abu Shid, the main valley of which is reached at mile 20.
Thence easy going over a wide wadi to Sinkat at mile 23.
Sinkat
8¾
23
By Lieut.-Col. Mitford,
April, 1899.
(Corrected up to 1900.)
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kassala
—
—
On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. direction
is taken over flat, sandy ground, intersected by small khors
running into the Khor El Gash; many low trees of the acacia tribe
and the green-leafed kurmet bush, but passage among them easy in
any direction.
Khor Debeloeid
5½
5½
A shallow khor, flowing from S.S.W. to
N.N.E. two miles on; this khor is recrossed, flowing westward; here
the trees are thicker and taller.
Khor Gamam
3½
9
A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 feet
deep, 15 to 20 yards wide; proceeding down the khor for ½ mile the
wells are reached. Banks thickly fringed with high tamarisks; bush
very close.
Bir Gamam
½
9½
Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 feet
diameter; water plentiful. Many wells exist now in this khor for
about 2 miles N. from this point. After winding about in the bush
for a mile, country again becomes open; many open spaces
half-a-mile to a mile in breadth. Direction N. A good deal of
cultivation here.
Gamam
5½
15
Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; its
site now marked by a stony mound to the E. known as Habuba. A mile
on one passes many skulls and human bones scattered all over the
ground for some distance. This spot was the scene of the first
encounter of the Kassala garrison and the Dervishes in the winter
of 1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a large standing camp of
Hadendoa at the same place. Arabs say “20,000 young men” were
collected there and guarded by Baggara horsemen, who, when food
failed, refused to let them leave; so many hundreds died of
starvation.
Hageror
9
24
The name of the district. At this point,
1 mile W. of our route, is the site of the old telegraph
maintenance post of the old Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, close to
a branch of the Khor El Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say water can be
found 10 to 15 feet below the surface anywhere in this khor;
fringed with high trees. Direction now is E.N.E.; country as
before, but cotton soil.
Khor Bahr Shamil
3½
27½
A shallow depression, 200 to 300 yards
broad, no defined banks, thickly grown over by laot trees.
Khor Delai
3
30½
Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, flowing
W. High trees along banks. At the 33rd mile the trees disappear;
country is cotton soil with tussocks of grass, full of holes and
breaks away at every step. Very bad going for men and animals. As
the Khor Herbub is approached, grass, 3 feet high, becomes
thicker.
Khor Herbub
10¾
41¼
A branch of the Gash, 20 feet broad, 20
feet deep. Proceed due W. for 1¼ miles through high trees.
Bir Tokar
1¼
42½
One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet
diameter, 1 foot of water at bottom of well. After drawing 400
gallons supply was exhausted and water came in very slowly. Water
good. Good grazing for horses and camels, and plenty of shade.
Retracing one’s steps back across the Khor Herbub, a direction 72°
(true) was taken and followed as far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil
and tussocks of grass as before.
Filik
2½
45
Formerly the largest and most important
collection of hamlets of the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no traces,
with the exception of three charred dom palm trees, which supported
the roof of the old telegraph maintenance post. Many wells, and
water plentiful in Khor Tokar ½ mile W.
Going very bad; at the 49th mile belts of
laot trees are passed through. At the 53rd mile surface of ground
improves; more sandy, with patches of small stones or pebbles.
J. Tisheiga
11
56
One mile to right. Ground now descends
gently; several small khors are crossed, running westward; trees in
khors and along banks, kittr and samr. Ground sandy, with
occasional patches of stones; excellent going.
Khor Yelkuk
5
61
Also called Telkuk. One hundred yards
broad, flowing westwards. Ten miles up this khor are wells and an
Arab settlement. Many trees; good grazing for camels. Two miles to
the north are low black hills called J. Kadabu. Country as
before.
Khor Taugon
5½
66½
One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feet
high. One well here not yet reopened, in bed of khor; high trees
and dom palms in bed and along banks. Two and half miles E. is J.
Taugon. General direction 62°.
Khor Shamfeid
2½
69
A small khor running into Khor Maman.
Same direction being followed, J. Maman with its four peaks
straight ahead. Ground rises gently and then descends towards the
Khor Maman; with stones in places.
Khor Maman
6
75
One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feet
high; many high trees and doms; excellent grazing for camels.
Crossing the khor and following up its right bank for 1½ miles the
wells are reached. Under J. Maman are seen many hundreds of stone
huts, which, according to the Arabs, were built many centuries ago;
also many large stone graves.
Bir Maman
1½
76½
Two wells, 40 feet deep, 3 feet diameter,
water good and plentiful at all seasons.
On leaving the wells, the track, very
faint, over stony ground, made by the party constructing the new
telegraph line, was followed for the next 40 miles. The telegraph
line itself is within sight of the track on one side or the other.
Track proceeds up khor for ¾ mile, then passes round S.E. corner of
J. Maman, and turns due N. J. Maman on the W. and J. Tudab on the
E. form a pass, 1½ to 2 miles broad; ground sandy, with patches of
stones; flat, good going; several small khors are crossed.
Khor Hashaneid
6
82½
One hundred yards broad, 3 feet banks.
Dom palms and trees.
Khor Tudab
2
84½
Khor Fagada
2
86½
Khor Toteb
1
87½
Eighty yards broad, 5 feet banks. Runs
into the Khor Kudameieb. Dom palms, kittr, samr, and the thornless
kurmet trees. One and a half miles E. is J. Yaied, some 1,500 feet
high, and 6 to 7 miles long, a mass of black basaltic rock, steeply
escarped on its western side.
For the next 12 miles, ground traversed
is hard sand, sloping from hills on the E., and covered with
stones; very bad going; in the small watercourses (during rains)
are belts of samr and kittr trees.
Khor Gedamaieb
4½
92
Fifty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Trees; 2
miles on, a similar khor is crossed, bearing the same name.
At 96½ miles the top of a watershed is
reached, and J. Kureib comes in sight, E.N.E. J. Bakutneb is some 3
or 4 miles to the N.
Khor Abuladein
7½
99½
Twenty yards broad, 6 feet banks. Ground
now sandy, and more trees.
Khor Serera
4
103½
One hundred yards broad, 6 feet banks.
Dom palms. Runs into the Khor Abu Ledein.
Khor Togul
3¼
106¾
Thirty yards broad, 3 feet banks. Follow
the khor 1 mile down stream.
Bir Ali Kalai
1
107¾
One well 40 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inches
diameter; water good, but supply only 300 gallons at date, and
refilled very slowly. Khor Weidab joins Khor Togul from the S.
lower down.
Returning up the khor 1 mile, a N.E.
direction is taken. Ground very stony and undulating, and
intersected by several large khors. Trees in watercourses and along
banks of khor. The track runs more or less parallel with J. Kureib,
4 or 5 miles distant to the E.; a range some 8 miles long, 2,300
feet (approximate) above the general level, very precipitous on
western side; black basaltic rocks.
Watershed
9¼
117
Up to this point all khors crossed run
into the Khor El Gash; northwards of this watershed, khors run into
the Khor Langeb.
Khor Arideib
4
121
The direction of the new telegraph line
is left 3 miles before reaching this khor. Direction N.N.W. Low
ground sandy, with trees and grass; high ground stony and
rocky.
Khor Kei-Eiteb
5
126
Khor Gambeleib
1½
127½
The downward course of this khor,
trending W. and S.W., is now followed for 4½ miles; several
subsidiary khors join it from either side. Water could probably be
found anywhere here, as trees are finer and creepers are festooned
along the trees; many kurmet bushes, marakh, and tundub; good
grazing for camels.
Bir Hamashaueb
4
132
Also called Bir Akrat. One well 50 feet
deep, 3 feet diameter; water good and plentiful.
Returning up the khor for 2 miles to
where Khor Gambeleib joins Khor Homashaueb, the upward course of
the latter khor is followed for 2 miles, and then a N.N.E.
direction taken. Ground very stony and rising; intersected by small
khors running from hills to the east.
Khor Omli
12
144
No defined banks; its course marked by
the trees.
Khor Yaskalab
4
148
Also called Khor Kubri. One well here 45
feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water good, but supply uncertain; it is
generally dry at this time of the year.
Khor Hedaweb
5
153
Similar to Khor
Gambeleib. One and half miles down the khor is Bir Hedaweb. One
well 9 feet deep, 3 feet 6 inches diameter; water good and
plentiful; there is said to be a better well 1 to 2 miles further
down the khor.
Bir Hadaueb
1
154
On the south side of the khor, close to
the well, are the remains of the old telegraph line maintenance
post.
Returning up the khor ½ mile, a branch
khor coming in from the N. is followed up past a large graveyard.
At the 156th mile this khor is left, and the neck between two rocky
hills is crossed. Going very bad; rough and stony.
Khor Belag
6½
160½
Two hundred yards broad, 2 feet banks.
Excellent grazing for camels in this khor. For 7 miles its downward
course is followed. Arabs say that it flows into Khor Windi, but at
167½ miles the khor appears dammed up with sand dunes 8 to 10 feet
high, and its level is the same as that of the surrounding
country.
Khor Hegadab
8¼
168¾
Flows towards the E. Ground ascends, and
a mile on a stony pass between the hills is reached. J. Adarabab
now comes in sight, noticeable from several chimney-like rocks
which stand up above the general level of the top of the range. A
short descent, then a sandy plain with patches of stones in
places.
Khor Windi
4
172¾
This khor is entered, and its down-stream
course followed for the next 8 miles. No water now obtainable in
this khor; trees are more stunted, and their leaves more yellow and
dried up than in the preceding khors. At 177½ miles is the site of
the old telegraph maintenance post and well, now filled in many
years ago.
At 180 miles the khor is left, and a
plain traversed, alternately sandy with tufts of grass and stony;
several narrow deep khors are crossed. At 188¼ miles the level of
the country suddenly drops some 20 feet.
Tamarisk bushes and trees commence.
Khor Langeb
19¼
192
One hundred and fifty to three hundred
yards broad, banks 15 to 20 feet high. Banks on either side thickly
fringed with tamarisk trees; excellent grazing for camels. Arabs
are restarting breeding camels in the vicinity of this khor; one
drove of nearly 300 young camels were seen. One day S.W. up this
khor, Khor Odeib is said to enter it; all the khors already
enumerated, from Khor Areideb to Hedaweb inclusive, run into Khor
Odeib. Half a day to the E. Khor Windi joins it.
Bir Tamashnauer
1½
193½
One and a quarter miles up this khor is
the well; 25 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful, but very
smelly and brackish. Arabs state that at present there are no wells
open further up the khor; lower down are more wells and a few
pools.
Returning ¾ mile down the khor, a
direction N. by E. is taken; several small tributary khors are
crossed, and then ground ascends gently and becomes stony.
The next 45 miles is known as the Wadi
Ossir. J. Adarabab and Shaba on the E., and a series of ranges of
hills on the W. form the sides, 8 to 10 miles apart. These hills
form a funnel through which the wind blows steadily during the
winter months; sand storms very frequent.
J. Karamriba
4½
198
Two black stony hills, 200 feet high; ½
mile to W.
Eilogwa
3
201
In the hills to the E., 3 to 4 miles from
the track, are said to be rock cisterns with water; supply
said to last from rains to rains.
Khor Ossir
5
206
Flowing S.W. Runs into Khor Langeb.
El Fogani
2½
208½
The same khor is recrossed, flowing S.E.
Good grazing along and in this khor.
Direction N.N.E. Ground still rising
gently; sandy, with tamarisks bushes and samr trees, very stunted,
4 to 5 feet high. Some marakh and araag trees. Occasional belts of
stony ground.
Watershed
16
224½
Top of the watershed is reached; ½ mile
to W. is a low stony mound, 50 feet. Ground now falls from J. Shaba
range towards the western hills.
Khor Shenkerat
5
229½
Three to four miles to E.; in the hills
are said to be rock cisterns. The old telegraph
maintenance post is under the hills. Ground now becomes very stony,
falling towards the W. and N.; in the shallow depression between
the flat spurs are Abyssinian aloes. Three miles on ground becomes
more sandy, and samr, marakh, and some laurel-like bushes are
passed through, becoming thicker as the khor is approached.
Khor Ossir El Tahtani
9
238½
Fifty to one hundred yards broad, 5 feet
banks; flows N.E. The range of hills on the E. now terminates. A
sandy plain is now crossed; scattered samr, etc.
J. Meiz
5
243½
A low conical hill is passed close to the
track to the E. 3 to 4 miles to the W. in the range of hills Arabs
point out J. Maiz, where water is said to be
plentiful.
For 2 miles stony ground, then sandy
again; track passes through several groups of low detached hills.
At 254½ miles ground becomes more cut up with khors, and gradually
ascends and becomes very stony; the last mile into Khor Siterab is
a stony defile; going very bad and in single file. A sharp ascent
into the khor.
Khor Sitarab
16½
260
A rocky khor 20 to 50 yards wide; bounded
by hills 40 to 60 feet high on either side. In the bed of the khor
are great blocks of granite, through the interstices of which
percolates water, which collects in the clay bed of the khor and
forms small pools at close intervals all down the khor, averaging
15 to 20 feet long, 2 to 4 feet broad, and 6 inches deep. Water
very brackish, osher bushes, a few tamarisks, shush grass and reeds
grow in the bed of the khor.
From the khor a well defined track runs
all the way to Suakin. For 4 miles ground is very stony and broken;
few sammur trees.
Khor Alifeyeit
4
264
Two hundred yards broad, 10 feet banks,
sandy bed. Ground now becomes sandy, and trees thicker; samr,
araag, heglig, labakh and tundub trees. Gow grass during and after
rains; good sheep grazing ground.
Khors Sedayat, Ashat, Erim,
and Shadat
5
269
These four khors are
all crossed in 1½ miles; no defined tracks; trees and bush in bed
and alongside the khors. A few miles eastwards these khors open out
into the plain. For the next 3½ miles ground is stony.
1½
270½
Khor Issi or Issei
1½
272
Fifty yards broad, 2 feet banks.
Khor Sarobai
2
274
No defined tracks; sandy; trees and
bush.
Khor Wintri
4¼
278¼
A point of crossing; this khor has
commenced to divide up into branches.
Four miles on J. Gumberit is passed 1
mile to the W. Country more open; eastward a clear view down to the
sea.
Khor Gwob
10¾
289
One hundred to two
hundred broad, shallow, no defined banks. Ground descends gently,
and on reaching the ridge, ¾ mile distant, the town of Suakin comes
in sight. Trees become fewer and bushes lower.
Suakin
8
297
(Various.)
Grazing.Plenty for camels,
&c., all along the route.
Water.Anywhere for the digging,
except between Khor Lokweb and Khor Ali Gebrat, 28 miles, and
between the latter and Kassala, 18 miles.
Camping ground.Good anywhere along
the route.
Wood.Plenty for fuel and for
making rough shelters.
Going.On the whole excellent for
camels, horses, &c. Convoys should not take more than 14 days
to do the journey from Suakin.
Parties without heavy baggage should do it easily in 9 days.
N.B.—As the major portion of this route leads through Italian
territory, it is not now generally used south of Khor Langeb
(vide note to Khor Langeb, 51st mile).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Tokar
—
—
Leaving Tokar, the track runs a little
west of south across the plains, leaving the Khor Baraka channel to
the west.
10
10
Traversing a broken tract, covered with
eminences strewn with sand, enter the Khor Baraka. Vegetation on
much larger scale; tall tamarisk trees. Channel 50 yards broad;
hard sand; excellent going; banks 10 to 12 feet high, and thickly
wooded.
There are more routes than one; sometimes
along the channel, or on either bank, according to season or
circumstances. Broadly, the Beni Amer inhabit the eastern bank, and
the Hadendoa the western.
Temeren
2
12
(Tamenrê = 10 wells.) The wells here, two
in number, are situated in the bed of the Khor Baraka, depth about
20 feet, and produce plenty of water of a brackish nature. Another
account (1897) says two wells, close to fort; one well only used,
good water 50 feet down. The khor here is about 80 paces wide, with
low banks, and is comparatively bare of trees. During the floods of
the Baraka, these wells are flushed, the water being thick and
impregnated with alluvial mud. The country on the left bank is open
and stony, and remains so until the line of the Jebel Shaba hills
is reached. To the right bank of the khor a certain amount of
cultivation exists, which increases in amount as the Tokar delta is
reached. Heina range visible to south.
Jebel Shaba lies 26 miles W.S.W. of
Temeren; track to it clearly marked over stony plain by occasional
stone heaps. Contains grass, ravines, shrubs, and numerous
pools of water (July); one large deep pool at foot of hill
containing water all year round. Good look-out post in all
directions.
The route, after leaving Temeren, bears
for a mile or so south-east to avoid the numerous sand dunes and
drifts lying close to the right bank of the khor, and then changes
southwards.
2
14
A belt of considerable bush is now passed
through, after which the country becomes open, rough, and sandy;
the khor about ½ a-mile to the right-hand side.
Well
1
15
One well; good water.
The route continues in a generally
southerly direction, passing through sand dunes, covered with a
considerable growth of tamarisk bushes sufficiently high to conceal
a mounted man.
1
16
Khor Toshikh joins the Baraka on the west
bank; route enters the Baraka.
Here large khor also runs in from the
east, main channel now from 30 to 40 yards wide, banks varying to
30 feet high. Natives say the whole of this bit of country for a
mile west, and to Jebel Haina east, is under water in the rainy
season. Tamarisk bushes line each side, nothing can be seen from
the channel.
Seven miles on, track leaves the khor,
runs west on a sandy plain for a mile. Eleven miles on a black hill
150 feet high runs from west bank half across the khor.
Lower Debetawateb
7
23
The hill of Haina
runs down to top of channel on east side; a narrow gorge is thus
made, through which the rush of water at flood is very great. When
it is a very high flood, a channel is also formed round the west
side of the hill. Just beyond this there are some old disused wells
in the channel that were known as Lower Debetawateb. After this,
the khor opens out to about 800 yards wide, sand dunes and scrub
everywhere, track winds round almost due west, and reaches Upper
Debetawateb, where there are two wells, plenty of good water, close
to surface. Track leaves channel here and runs ½ mile through thick
jungle on to east bank, and then winds round south over sandy
plain. Five miles on, guide pointed due west to
Upper Debetawateb
3½
26½
Odwan
5
31½
Odwan, lying in the khor, one well. Eight
miles on, hills of Shaba and Heina run down to banks of channel,
track leads east of some low hills, and khor is seen winding west a
good deal.
Tefadi
5
36½
Some large sand hills
in khor, guide said this was Tefadi. No well, but water easily got
by digging. Track now leads over bad ground broken up by
watercourses, sand dunes, &c., and re-enters channel 4 miles
on, then leaves it and runs on to west bank, winding gradually
south-west into Khor Farag Salem. (Laiameib.)
Laiameib
6½
43
Farag Saleib
3
46
Here there are 12 or more pools of water,
rather salt. This khor runs south-east into Khor Baraka, and where
it meets it, there is a small stone enclosure on a hill held by
Arabs under Sheikh Abu Fatma, called Langeb. There is one well in
valley at foot of hill.
From Khor Farag Salem is seen Jebel Ada
Abab, about 10 miles to the south-west. The track runs from this
khor south-east, then south-west over rocky ground, skirting the
Khor Baraka, of which the east bank is lined with hills.
Five miles on track
enters channel, and 100 yards further Khor Langeb[8]
runs in from the west, about 25 yards wide, and described as
similar to Khor Baraka. Directly afterwards the track leaves khor
and proceeds for 8 miles over stony ground on west bank, and then
for 11 miles over alternate rocky and sandy plains, direction
south, then re-enters khor and passes pool of dirty water, and
after heavy going in the channel reaches two pools with any
quantity of clear sweet water, called Tebhateit.
Tebhateit
23
74
[Other accounts of the
road from Khor Toshikh to Tebhateit are as follows:—
10
22
At 10 miles from Temeren a large number
of sandhills are reached, covered with a good deal of scrub and
tamarisk trees. These sandhills proceed from the neighbourhood of
the khor towards the Jebel Heina; they are not of any height, but
would form admirable concealment for horse and foot men. After
passing through the sandhills, the route re-enters the khor, being
the first point the khor is touched since Temeren. The khor here is
about 50 paces wide, with a firm sandy bottom, fringed by scrub,
though not of a dense character.
There is also a track along the west bank
of the Khor Baraka from Temeren to Langeb (Junker’s road), but it
is bad, leading through thick bush and wood, and much broken by
numerous small khors.
Debetawateb
3
25
Wells. About 35 water holes 5 feet deep,
situated close to west bank of khor. Wells mostly together, water
brackish (April). The wells are placed in what practically is a
gorge. The left bank rises in a rocky hill from 150 to 200 feet
high, and gradually falls away into a wide open stony plain, which,
with occasional rocky isolated hills, extends to the high mountain
of Jebel Shaba. On the right bank the hills are higher, formed into
numerous peaks, the hills gradually losing themselves in the Jebel
Haina. The rush of water down this gorge is very considerable when
the Baraka is in flood; it is said to be of such force as to sweep
a camel with ease before it. The hills of this gorge would form a
fair position; though, perhaps, capable of being turned by the
west. Such dense scrub approaches to within a few yards of the south side of the hill on
the left bank that it would enable an enemy on the hill to defend
himself from this bush with reasonable prospects of success, and
make it a difficult operation to touch the top of the ridge of the
hills without carrying the bush. This gorge would seem to be the
best place to put a barrage, should such a work ever be
contemplated. After leaving the wells the route follows the khor,
which now opens out very considerably. The west bank is covered
with dense bush, mostly tamarisk trees; the east bank has a
considerable amount of bush, but the belt is not so broad or so
high as that on the opposite bank.
2
27
After about ¾ hour is reached a large
patch of dura crop planted in the bed of the khor, dense bush
continuing on the left bank; after ½ hour, reach a few water holes
on the right side of the khor, evidently used for the cultivation
of the above-mentioned dura. After passing the cultivation the khor
maintains the same general appearance.
From here a short cut may be made to
Tamatu by leaving the khor, and marching over a scrubby plain,
going rough, and cut up by small khors and hills.
The path now leads by the right bank of
the khor, and clear of it; the ground here is much cut up by
ravines and watercourses, covered with dense bush, in fact might be
described as a regular jungle. After passing this rough ground the
khor is again struck at
Odwan (meaning great
waterpot).
4
31
The khor here is in a channel 16 to 18
feet deep; the channel bifurcates, the old bed passing in a
westerly direction, the new cutting for itself a passage in a more
northerly direction. Pools here before the Baraka floods, running
water in winter. No definite wells. On 16th July, 1894, the khor
here was a rapid stream, 40 to 50 yards broad, and 4 feet
deep.
Khor takes sharp bend to the west. Bush
on either bank very dense; tamarisks and bushes bound together with
bright green creepers.
Tamatu (or Tefadi?)
6
37
Fifty wells near west (?) bank of khor, 5
feet deep; water brackish.
Route now goes along bed of khor, good
going, muddy soil with patches of sand. Banks 4 feet high and
densely wooded. Four miles (?) on, the khor is left, and an open
plain to the west crossed, covered with scattered scrub, ground
generally stony. Spurs of Shaba range extend to within half mile of
khor.
Laiameib
8
45
Lies a mile to the west of the Khor
Baraka, and is reached by proceeding up a stony tributary khor with
occasional trees, a few dom palms marking the entrance to the khor.
This point is called Khashm Lwi (?); sides of khor 50 to 100 feet
high. The wells lie at the foot of a mass of irregular rocks, which
stop further advance.
The reservoir of rain water is situated
under the rocks, and is reached by a narrow downward passage which
finally opens into a subterranean cave. The entrance to the cave is
sufficiently high and wide to admit the passage of two horses at
the same time. The water, perhaps 6 feet deep, is of excellent
quality and most delicious to drink, covering about 15 feet square,
and taking up the greater part of the cave.
Khor Farag Saleib
3
48
Three miles south of the Khor Laiameib,
the Khor Farag Saleib is crossed. Here the Baraka forms a lake in
flood time.
Langeb
3
51
The entrance to the khor of that name,
which trends south-west from here.
Tebhateit
12
63
Good wells; ground hilly. Jebel Haggr,
6,000 feet.
(From this point Captain
McKerrell is the authority.)
After Tebhateit (74 miles) the track now
runs on to east bank, and winds gradually south over broken rocky
ground; 5 miles on re-enters khor, and runs through dense mass of
tamarisk and scrub into channel 100 yards wide here, and khor ½ to
¾ mile wide.
Ambakta
8
82
Shortly afterwards reach Khor Ambakta,
with one well. This is where Sudan-Eritrea boundary meets the
Baraka on the east bank. Jebel Senad, to the west, is a good
landmark here, and Jebel Ayob, on east. Channel now twists about a
good deal, then runs south-west; both banks lined with hills.
Hakhal
8
90
Eight miles on is Hakal; one well, 6 feet
down, good water.
Adardeb
9
99
Track continues south-west and enters
Eritrean territory, and 9 miles on reaches Adardeb, with three
wells, 4 feet down; good water. Three miles on channel splits up
and runs east and west; track leads over ground between. Very bad
going over ground broken up by watercourses and sand dunes for next
6 miles; channel is then re-entered and Khor Salha is reached.
Khor Salha
10
109
Five wells, 4 feet
down, good water. This is a large khor running in from the east,
and is itself joined by Khor Anseba, about 10 miles east, which
latter khor comes from south-east. From here Jebel Adarkalab, a
very high hill, is seen due south, and Jebel Skena due west, a
cone-shaped hill. Track leaves channel here and runs along east
bank, passing, 3 miles on, two stone pepper pots, built by
Dervishes. Bad going over very broken ground, intersected by
watercourses, for next 8 miles; then re-enters channel and reaches
four wells, water 4 feet down, and some small rain pools, from one
of which two fish were caught. One hundred yards on is Jebel Sotai
on west, and Jebel Adarkalab on east, bank; latter swarming with
grey monkeys. These hills are about 60 yards apart, and the rush of
water between them at flood must be very great.
Khor Anseba
—
—
Jebel Sotai
9
118
Akiduli (Koliteb?)
4
122
Four miles on is a
black rock, called “Akiduli,” on east bank, with figures of camels,
men, and ostriches scratched over it. Water here also in pools and
old wells, in places only 2 feet down. Further on is Khor Attai,
with wells; water good, and 4 feet down.
Khor Attai
2
124
Kolik
18
142
Track now runs south, and hills recede on
either side; khor widening to about a mile east and west; channel
100 yards, and shallow, lined with thick tamarisk and bush.
Thirteen miles on passed several wells, old and new, and later khor
contracts and hills run down on either flank; reach Kolik.
Khor Tamaguanti
6
148
Jebel Koreb is seen here, a landmark to
the west. There is water. Then track leaves khor and crosses west
on to a wide, fairly open, sandy plain. Long range of black hills
on east, running with khor, country west much more open and hills
far away. Six miles on, cross Khor Tamaguanti, running south-west,
which is lined with dom palms, has an old well with good water, and
a few inhabitants. Track continues over plain passing “Mala” of
Sheikh Abu Tahir, who was head of the Hadendoa tribe in Mohammed
Ali’s time. Here there are between 200 and 300 graves; plain is
covered with coarse grass and acacia.
Khor Lokweb
11
159
Track now leaves Khor
Baraka and enters Khor Lokweb, a large khor running into the Baraka
from the south-west; channel, lined with any number of dom palms,
100 yards wide; banks 15 to 20 feet high. Two good wells here,
water 5 feet down; track continues in khor, direction south-west,
for 2 miles and comes to two new wells, water 6 feet down. Then
leaves khor to avoid heavy sand, and runs parallel to it on west
bank, but here also going is bad, over very broken ground covered
with bush. Eight miles on track runs over rocky ground, two hills
appear on both flanks. Sixteen miles on passes old stone house on
hill to left and shortly after re-enters Khor Lokweb at spot called
Khashm El Kawab, where there were two wells, water 3 feet down,
slightly salt. Track now runs south-west and then for 8 miles west.
Channel blocked by large stone boulders after first mile, bad going
through deep sand, dom palms on both banks, also saw two withered
Tebeldis with edible fruit like an elongated pear. Six miles on
reached three wells called Khashm Hodelt. Eight miles on, left khor
and marched west over plain, covered with acacia, &c. Then
re-entered khor and reached three at Khashm Ribdab, good
water.
Khashm El Kawab
19
178
Khashm Hodelt
6
184
Khashm Ribdab
6
190
No water for the next 28 miles.
Jebel Irkit-Anob
8
198
Track leaves Khor
Lokweb now, which runs west, and enters Khor Ribdab. Channel 50 to
100 yards wide, with low banks covered with bush, hard sandy
bottom, excellent going, direction due south. Sighted here, due
south, curious grey hill, with top sticking up like a chimney,
called Jebel Irkit Anob, a good land mark. Natives said no one had
ever been able to climb to its top. Three miles on reached plain, where the old
Mamuria stood. Five miles on passed close to the above-mentioned
hill, leaving it on our left. Track shortly afterwards leaves khor
and runs west over plain of acacia, coarse grass, &c. Nine
miles on reached hill called Tiniki, with a single thorn tree on
its east shoulder, moved round its east flank in single file into
plain beyond; direction west, bad going, and axes had to be used in
places. Fifteen miles on sighted Jebel Kassala to south-west. Bush-
grown plain. Shortly after track passes between low hills on the
right, called Shushaieb, and a large burying ground on left, called
“Balad Ali Gabret,” and enters shortly after khor of that name,
running south and west, with six wells of good water, 4 feet below
surface. Plenty of shade. Jebel Sabderat is seen on left
front.
Jebel Shushaieb
16
214
Khor Ali Gabret
4
218
Kassala
18
236
Track now leaves khor and runs south-west
over grassy park-like plain, covered with bush, &c. Bad going
in places. Seven miles on sighted Jebel Mokram and, passing it on
our left, reached Kassala, 3 miles further on.
By Captain H. H. Morant,
April, 1900.
General Remarks.The most direct
road to Maman is the old telegraph route which leaves Kassala in
N.N.E. direction past the north end of J. Mokram, and after
following the new telegraph line for about 10 miles then turns
nearly due north and leaves the new telegraph to the east. Country:
good going, covered with scattered bush, but thicker along khors,
some of which are more or less serious obstacles in the rains.
Though water is not plentiful along this route it was sufficient in
April, 1900, to enable a party of 50 Camel Corps, 2 horses, 50
natives on foot, and 2,000 head of cattle and sheep to reach the
wells at Tukruf, near Kassala, without any special arrangements for
water.
Maman is on the direct road to Suakin: for portion of route to
Suakin N. of Maman, videRoute
8.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kassala
—
—
Khor Girger (Wells)
19
19
Bir Galgal in Khor Girger; very little
water in April, 1900.
Tendelai-i ( Wells)
12
31
From here the track
continues N.N.E. by N., passing about midway between Jebels Roreb
and Shushaieb to the northern extremity of the latter, where there
are several wells in the khor called Tendelai-i. These wells had
also very little water. From here the track continues in the same
direction, good going, country open and grassy, scattered bush
except along khors, several of which are crossed, to Khor Telkuk,
before reaching which Jebel Obillit is passed about 2 miles to the
west. There was said to be a well in the khor somewhere near this
jebel. From here to Maman, country very open; good hard going and
short grass. Three more khors are crossed, chief of which is
Togan.
Khor Telkuk, or El Ku, or
Obillit
20
51
9
60
Maman
5
65
The wells in K. Maman. Many Gemilab
Hadendoas here.
By Captain Kenrick, 11th Hussars,
September, 1901.
N.B.—The localities of wells and water in the country described
in both the following Route Reports depend largely on the season
and the year, and to a great extent on local rain storms. Much
reliance cannot therefore be placed on previous reports.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Adarama
—
—
After
leaving Adarama the road goes E. for about 6 miles over sandy soil
covered with tufts of dry tabas grass. Jebel Asoteribab is visible
to the S.E. Khor Amab is then crossed; this is always dry, I was
told; it comes from S.E., and runs a little way further to the N.
Osman Digna is said to have had his extreme E. outpost of 20 men
here to levy blackmail on anyone coming to Berber. There are acacia
bushes in this khor. Two miles after crossing the khor, the range
Jebel Tobrar comes into view. All bushes cease here, and for 4 or 5
miles the way is over an undulating sandy country with tufts of
withered grass. On descending a low sandy hill, Khor Shedieb is met
running S.W. and draining a black, light sandy plain running E. and
W., along which the way proceeds for 6 miles; low sand hills to the
S. The plain is treeless, except a few stunted bushes in Khor
Shedieb. After marching E. over this plain the sand hills begin to
close in at a place called El Yukreik, where there is a little
shade from a few small tundub bushes; this is said to be full of
water and green grass in a rainy year, but it is quite dry now;
this is about 20 miles distant from Adarama. The direction is then
eastwards through a succession of valleys shut in by low sand hills
running N. and S. about 3 miles by 3 miles. One valley, just before
entering the Hegerib Plain in which Bir Kerikun lies, is full of
bushes and is cotton soil, but not bad going; there must be a good
deal of water all over this country in a good year, but it is quite
dry now. There is no grass for horses the whole way; the going is
good, but a little heavy over the sand hills from one valley to
another, and also, except just when entering Wadi Hegerib, 3 miles
before reaching Bir Kerikun.
Jebel Tobrar
2
8
Khor Shedieb
5
13
El Yukreik
7
20
Bir Kerikun
15
35
¾
35¾
On leaving Bir Kerikun, march
N. about ¾ mile to get over the low sand hills, the way then goes
E. and slightly N. The road winds a little when passing over the
sand hills to get out of the valleys, which are exactly similar to
those about 12 miles before Kerikun, except that there are more
selem or samr bushes in them, which give a fair amount of shade.
Just before entering Wadi Todabanob there is a valley which the
Arabs told me is capital grazing in a good year.
Khor Shanfaiet
—
—
Khor
Shanfaiet comes in at the S.W. corner of this valley. Large
graveyard of Shebodinab Arabs here. Going good; sand a little heavy
across the sand hills. No grass fit for horses. On entering Wadi
Todabanob the wells lie at the foot of a sand hill. They are about
8 in number (though there are others quite filled up in other parts
of the valley); three only of these are open, and two of these only
had water in them; they are unlined. They were:—
Todabanob
13¼
49
Depth to water
14 feet.
Depth of water
2½ feet (approx.).
Circumference
3¼ feet.
I got about 3 camel fantasses
full out of them. I have now learnt from three sources that it was,
as I suspected at the time, only rain water from the shower two
nights before. They are now almost dry. Excellent shade in
Todabanob from large sayal trees; no grass; must be swamp in a wet
year. No Arabs at all on the route. Wadi Todabanob runs N. and S.
Khor Derudeb comes in at S. E. (about).
J. Sanai
—
—
After
passing eastwards over the sand hills leading out of Wadi
Todabanob, J. Sanai comes into view in the E., and J. Ararab to
S.E.; after a switchback course of about 2½ miles over the sand
hills the road drops into Wadi Shakauni, half of which is covered
with withered Tabas grass, and a little green grass, tundub bushes,
and Senna, the remaining half barren sand; this is crossed after
marching 3 miles. On ascending a slight ridge the sand hills are
left, and Khor Derudeb comes into sight about 6 miles off, running
in a half-circle from N.E. to S.W. J. Tebilol, in the E., is also
sighted. The ground just before coming to Khor Derudeb, as in the
low-lying parts of all these khors, is cotton soil, but the going
is not bad. About 12 miles from Bir Todabanob, Khor Derudeb is
crossed at a point called El Garud, where there are rain pits;
these cannot be relied on for water. The way now goes eastwards for
about 11 miles over a stony plain, but good going on tracks, past
J. Tebilol and Khor El Ashob. There was very little water when I
came here, but a violent storm came on in the night and brought
down the khor; after such a storm there is plenty of water,
sufficient, I think, to last for four or five months. There was one
large pool of water, 40 yards long, 8 yards broad, and 10 feet
deep. Plenty of shade near the khor, and good grass on the banks.
The plain just before Khor El Ashob is treeless; the going the
whole way is good.
J. Ararab
—
—
Wadi Shakauni
2½
51½
J. Tebilol
—
—
Khor Derudeb
—
—
El Garud
9½
61
J. Tebilol
—
—
Khor El Ashob
10½
71½
Jebel Wararaweb
—
—
The road
goes eastwards through the pass of J. Wararaweb, but there are
several miles (3) of cotton soil to pass first. The pass itself is
very stony, broken ground and bad going for about 3 of 4 more
miles. Then S.E. over a very stony plain for 10 miles to Khor
Godamaieb; this plain is crossed by small khor, near which and in
which there is always a little green grass and some shade. Khor
Godamaieb was dry. The well Tisharam is on the west bank, and is a
very good one, though unlined; its dimensions were:—
Khor Hambokeb
Khor Godamaieb
—
—
Tisharam
38½
110
Depth to water
9 feet.
Depth of water (good)
5 feet.
Circumference
7 feet.
I was told Osman Digna usually
went viâ Khor El Ashob, Bir Delai and Khor Delai to Khor
Araf. Plenty of dom palms on each bank, some coarse green grass;
remains of a very large old well filled up.
Khor Angwatiri
2½
112½
Cross
Khor Godamaieb, about 50 yards wide, march N.E. over a road for the
most part stony, except 2½ miles from Khor Godamaieb, where Khor
Angwatiri is crossed; there is green grass in plenty, and some
shade from thorn bushes. It was full of Gemilab Arabs and their
flocks, who water away to the E. in Khor Amboreb, where there are
some pools of water. After 5 miles further you enter the hills, and
there are 4 miles of very bad stony going in and out of small khors
in the midst of stony mountains till you descend into Khor Barshoi,
about 1 mile long, with dom palms on both banks; then Khor Araf
comes in from the N.W., and the way to Khor Langeb is up this khor,
averaging 30 or 40 yards in width, thick dom trees on either bank,
coarse green grass in places, but not in any great quantity. The
mountains all through run down to the dom palms on the banks of the
Khor Araf on each side; away in the distance are some very high
stony peaks. A very few Gemilab were in the khor. The going on the
whole is very good in the khor, except in a few places where the
sand is heavy. About 5 miles from junction of Khor Araf with Khor
Barshoi was a pool of rain water near the left bank, about 15 yards
long, 4 yards broad, and 2 feet deep. The pool to be relied on is
El Getite, on left bank of Khor Araf, about 16 miles from junction
of Khor Araf and Khor Barshoi, and 31 from Bir Tisharam; it is
rainwater and will last 4 months. It is close up to the rock where
the hills run down into the khor. It is 209 yards long, 10 yards
broad, and 10 or 12 feet deep. Muddy water, but quite
wholesome.
Khor Amboreb
7½
120
Khor Barshoi
4
124
Khor Araf
6
130
El Getite
11
141
Umna Dunyin
10
151
The road
then goes on down Khor Araf with many twists and turns till the
pool of rain-water called Umna Dunyin is reached, about 10
miles from El Getite,
but 15 yards long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or 5 feet deep in the
centre, will probably last 2 months more. After 2½ miles from Umna
Dunyin, J. Hambolib is in sight, round which the khor twists for
about 3 miles, till the wells called J. Hambolieb
are passed. They are filled up with sand, and only a person who
knew them well would know they had ever existed. However, I was
told there is water underneath; if so, a small fatigue party could
clean out the sand in a few hours. I think Khor Langeb joins Khor
Araf just near here, running due E. here. Dom palms, tarfa jungle,
and small quantity of green grass on the banks. Five miles up this
khor, on left bank, is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small Khor Oshi; the
same remarks apply to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. Bir Gabati,
slightly further on, I was told is the same. There is, I am told,
water in Khor Odi, and a big pool at Areiwat, and
no lack of water further on. On the right bank on entering Khor
Langeb are some graves on a hill, said to be the graves of Roman
soldiers; the Hadendoas are afraid of opening them, though they
think there is treasure there.
J. Hambolib
2½
153½
Bir Oshi
4½
158
Bir Oshi is distant about 48
miles from Bir Tisharam, this is owing to the twists the khor
makes, and one is not able to leave Khor Araf often on account of
the hills coming down close to the banks of the khor and rendering
the ground impassable.
By Captain Kenrick,
September, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Getite
—
—
March
from El Getite to junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi
(vide previous route report), then march for 2 miles N.W.
up Khor Araf almost to its source; the khor narrows here and the
path is a little stony in places, then turn W. over a stony plain
for 2 miles, very fairly good going until the source of Khor El
Ashob is reached. From this place may be sighted sources of Khor
Araf and Khor Amboreb, which runs away apparently S.E. There was
plenty of grass and shade here. Leaving Khor El Ashob, which runs
away to the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. again to join Khor
Derudeb, march S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles distant; road stony,
but good going on sheep tracks, the stones are not very thick, nor
is it rocky. Cross several khors en route, Khor Beida is
one of them; there is a little grass in all of these. On reaching
Khor Delai, after going a few yards down the khor the well is
reached in the centre of the khor, recently cleaned out by the
Arabs, but there are none here now. The well is lined with
wood.
Khor Barshoi
17
17
Khor El Ashob
4
21
Khor Delai
7½
28½
Khor Beida
—
—
Bir Delai
—
28½
Depth to water
3½
feet.
Depth of water (very clean)
10 „
Circumference (approx.)
7
„
Good
cattle watering places round the well. Good shade. Some green grass
in the khor.
5
33½
After
leaving Bir Delai, first march 5 miles along right bank of Khor
Delai (looking towards mouth of khor), direction W., cross the khor
at the point where it runs slightly N.W. to join Khor El Ashob,
then 8 miles over stony, but very level plain, excellent going in
cattle tracks and
sheep tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long,
12 feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well filled up, 3 miles to N.W.;
could be opened if necessary in khor under dom palm.
Pool El Ashob
8
41½
Khor Derudeb
5
46½
Leave
Khor El Ashob, crossing to right bank (looking towards mouth),
going in a westerly direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, cross this
khor. A little cotton soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, going
otherwise good, over light, stony, sandy soil, but no shade except
at the khors. Then N.W. 10 miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem,
coming from N. of J. Torbraa range; going good, grass in Khor Abu
Sillem, also shade. N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor Breitak,
there I found two pools of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. They were
in the khor and were about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad and 1 foot
deep. About 5 miles of some of the best grazing I have seen in the
country. The Sheikh said the water had been there 2 months and
would only last 9 days more, another Arab I asked said a month
more. The Sheikh also pointed out the road to the N. to Bir
Tendera; both he and my guides said half a day’s journey,
i.e., 13 miles, easy road, and it looked good what I saw
of it. Very good shade here.
Khor Abu Sillem
10
56½
Khor Breitak
6
62½
Bir Tendera
13
75½
Sekotieb
20
95½
From Tendera, Adarama is 40
miles (Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), road easy (there may be a
little cotton soil), some shade and grass at Bir Tendera, also some
shade at Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) from Adarama. The well
(Tendera) itself is large, always has water in it.
Adarama
20
115½
This information, though I
have seen the road as far as Khor Shedieb and corroborate it so
far, is hearsay, as I had not time to go there myself. My
informants are my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa and the Mulazim
Awal, of Slavery Department at Adarama, all of whom have been
there, and many Arabs re water.
Note.—In the long grass
(September) a large number of snakes exactly similar to the Indian
cobra were met. I killed 4 on the march. The Hadendoa name for them
is “kokwa” whilst the Ababda called them “Dugga.”
By Captain H. H. S.
Morant.—March, 1900.
N.B.—For description of route further east and
notes on this road, videRoute
125, Appendix.
From here there is a
tolerably distinct track following the crest-line of the plateau,
and the river is seen and approachable only occasionally, being
always 1 to 4 miles on left. The descents to Meshras Abedo and
Godema are passed, and then the burial ground and khor of Torab
Karuf, further on the district of Sheikh Ageil and Meshra El
Zuhani. From Sheikh Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both visible N.N.W.
and S.S.W. respectively, latter being on boundary of Hamrans
towards Abyssinia.
Abedo
3¾
3¾
Godema
¾
4½
K. Turab Karuf
1¼
5¾
Sheikh Ageil
4
9¾
El Zuhani
1½
11¼
Gat Wad El Hag
6½
17¾
Leaving this, the
path passes clearings of former cultivation, and after 3 miles of
thick bush, Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk is reached,
and after following bed of river for ½ a mile, plateau is regained,
and Gira is next Meshra. On left bank are cliffs, on which are
situated the ruins of the old Egyptian Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad
Heleiwa being crossed, village of latter name, which is the sole
existing one of Hamrans at present time, is reached. From here
Setit is crossed, and later R. Atbara and village of Sofi is
reached.
[8]If it is not desired to march through Italian
territory from this point, the route mentioned in the previous
report may be taken by marching up Khor Langeb to junction Khor
Windi, and thence up the latter khor for about 20 miles until the
eastern road is met.
[9]The Sudan-Eritrea frontier here runs from a
point on the Hafeira-Umbrega road, marked by a blazed heglig tree,
straight to the bend of the Setit immediately opposite the mouth of
the Khor Royan, which enters the Setit on the left bank about 11
miles above Umbrega.
CHAPTER IV. — 14.—KHARTOUM NORTH to KASSALA, viâ GEILI, RERA EL SADDA, and EL SOFEIYA, DIMIAT, ASUBRI. — 15.—GOZ REGEB to SHENDI viâ ABU DELEIG. — 16.—EL DAMER to FASHER (ATBARA). — 17.—KHARTOUM NORTH to ABU DELEIG. — 18.—RUFAA to GEILI. — 19.—GEDAREF to KASSALA. — 20.—GEDAREF to GALLABAT. — 21.—ABU HARAZ to GEDAREF. [14] — 22.—GEDAREF viâ HAWATA to ABU HARAZ. — 23.—SOFI viâ ABU GULUD to SERAF SAID. — 24.—FAMAKA to ABU RAMLA. — 25.—KARKOJ to HAWATA. — 26.—ROSEIRES to ABU SHANEINA by RIGHT BANK. — 27.—SENGA viâ DURRABA to UM EL RUG. — 28.—MOUTH OF KHOR GELAGU (DINDER) to GALLABAT. — 29.—GALLABAT to WAD MEDANI, viâ RIVER RAHAD. [17] — 30.—ITINERARY OF BLUE NILE—KHARTOUM to FAZOGLI.
(EASTERN SUDAN.)
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot
(January, 1900) with additions by Captains Boulnois (March, 1900)
and Morant (January, 1901).
General Description.
Road.At this season (January) the
going is good throughout, except for the few miles between Um
Ukheita and Um Rueishid and the first 5 miles out of Rera
eastwards, which portions of the track are very stony. From El
Sadda to Asubri there is at present (1900) no track, so the going
is not so good as in other parts, but there is no obstacle to
camels. The gradients throughout are insignificant. A great portion
of the route is over dark arable soil, which must be impassable
when wet, so that in autumn this route must be difficult for camels
for at any rate a day after heavy rain.
There is plenty of shade up to El Ereigib; after that it is
rarely found and is non-existent for considerable stretches.
Rivers.The Atbara bed lies from
100-200 feet below the level of the surrounding plains. On either
side it is bordered by 2 to 4 miles of broken ground covered with
scattered bush, through which the track proceeds by easy gradients.
As a rule it is unfordable at Asubri from end of June to middle of
October. During these months travellers cross by the boat ferry at
Suweihil some 5 miles further south.
The Gash is liable to be unfordable for several days together
during the flood season which lasts during July, August and
September.
Supplies.A good deal of dura is
grown near the track and some might be obtainable at the right time
of year. Sheep and milk can be got at many places. Firewood is to
be found everywhere up to El Giseima (66 miles), after that it is
very scarce till the Atbara is reached.
Water.As tanks are very numerous,
water must be very plentiful in autumn and early winter.
The wells about El Ereigib are very deep; that at Wad Abu Saleh
was found to be roughly 250 feet.
There are still many wells that require digging out and tanks
that want repair. Water was of good quality throughout, and all the
wells visited had an ample supply.
Inhabitants.The village of Um
Dibban and all the country as far as Wad Abu Saleh used to be under
El Taib Abd El Salem, the Sheikh of El Soba. Owing to their having
joined the Mahdi, the Sheikh of El Obeid family have risen in
importance and acquired a certain jurisdiction over the country
east of Um Dibban.
A few Batahin were met with as far as El Giseima, after that
practically all were Shukria or those living with that tribe, as
far as the left bank of the Atbara.
Grazing.There is excellent tree
grazing as far as El Giseima, and after that the supply of grass is
so great that one can understand how the enormous flocks and herds
subsisted, that the Shukria claim to have possessed in their palmy
days.
The grass seen was never more than 3 feet high. It is not
burnt.
Cultivation.An immense area is
capable of growing good crops of dura if the rains are
favourable.
Game.There is practically nothing
to shoot at this season (January) between the Blue Nile and a few
miles of the Atbara.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khartoum North
—
—
Starting E. from the
Artillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck,
which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where it
bends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads to
Sheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villages
of Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 miles
the village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some low
mounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said to
be the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch to
the left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few miles
the path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually get
thicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any direction
to 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right of
the road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scattered
but well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which all
vegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500
yards.
Old Soba
19
19
Um Dibban
8
27
It was formed by a holy man named Sheikh
El Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. His
descendants still live there and keep up the school, but they now
have hankerings after temporal power.
The Sheikh El Obeid family and followers
were early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was in
attempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forces
were cut to pieces in 1884.
There are two wells about 112 feet deep,
one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of
village.
The inhabitants belong to various tribes;
many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to the
E.
Wad Badrub (Wad Agid)
4¼
31¼
The road starts slightly N. of E., and
generally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enough
really to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging here
and there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140
feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, and
again after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.
The track maintains a general direction
of a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes for
short distances.
Wad Hedeibab
7¾
39
Well.
Um Sideira
7
46
Well.
4
50
A dry tank in the Elwan district is
passed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to the
S.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is now
occupied by the Batahin.
The country soon becomes more open and a
considerable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura,
cultivated by the Batahin was passed.
El Ereigib
5
55
There are some wells (which were out of
repair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with water
about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.
A small number of Mesellemia Arabs,
Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria,
but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.
Another rather shorter route is from
Khartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well,
thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of El
Melaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January,
1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles),
salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½
miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½
miles.
Wadi Sereria
6½
6½
The country soon becomes more open,
several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250
feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in good
preservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mile
to the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water in
the neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare of
trees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ miles
some Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. is
crossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close at
hand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna to
Rufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.
A tank about 100 feet in diameter on
rather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water in
it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera is
reached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines of
Wadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank;
firewood should be provided for.
Wadi Abu Sueid
4
70
The absence of trees
enables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soil
and covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass.
At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come from
Abu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid and
the lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, but
none was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 miles
further on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends short
slope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.
Astaneit
6
76
Khor Dengalia
4
80
From here on to
Geili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main track
probably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80th
mile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half mile
further on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ miles
further on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best place
to halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallen
boulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has an
ancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest the
hill.
Wadi Nail
4
84
Wadi Ankia
½
84½
Geili
6
90½
J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250
feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. and
S. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which the
wells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirty
wells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet,
yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but no
firewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even there
nailed boots must be taken off.
From the summit a good view is obtained.
Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb of
the “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, who
married Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.
From Geili there are two roads to Um
Rueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour.
It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. El
Daein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundred
feddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The ground
is much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.
J. El Daein
22
112½
Two small hills of which the southern is
the higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamla
took 8 hours, going well.
Um Ukheita
14½
127
The track now turns slightly S. of E. and
continues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tank
now dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here on
to Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and the
going very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen to
the S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving on
the right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ miles
the track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to the
well of Um Rueishid.
The more direct road, which would appear
to be the best in every way, runs nearly due E. over a “Nal” grass
covered plain devoid of bush, therefore also of shade and firewood,
to Sofeiya El Wata (23 miles) a large tank (dry January, 1901),
where there is excellent shade for a small party. From here to Um
Rueishid (20 miles), track traverses similar country, though it is
occasionally stony. J. Um Betikh is passed to the S. of the
track.
Um Rueishid
8¼
135¼
This well is said to be 30 or 35 feet
deep. It is situated on bare stony ground. A dry tank lies ½ mile
to the S. There are a few small thorn bushes S. of well, but there
is very little shade and little grazing, and it is altogether
rather an unpleasant halting place.
From Um Rueishid there is a track viâ El
Sofeiya and Dimiat to Asubri. It seems the most direct line
possible, vide description below.
The route followed after about 1 mile of stony
plain strikes a well marked track on good cultivable soil, and
makes straight for J. Rera.
At 1½ miles it crosses the Wadi Jerraba
flowing S., and 6 miles W. Rahad, and at 11 miles the W. Kanan
flowing N. All are flat depressions with cracked soil and marked by
lines of “kittr” bushes. Parts of their courses are cultivated. At
18 miles, track enters ground strewn with quartz pebbles, and
covered with grass which continues as far as Rera.
Rera
22¼
157½
Hamla 9½ hours. The Rera hills consist of
three rocky ridges almost in line, running E. and W. and some low
subsidiary elevation; S. of the centre ridge is a well and a dry
water hole. Immediately to the S. of the W. end of the eastern and
highest ridge are more wells now in use. On the N. side of the
short and low pass that leads to these wells from the N. is a deep
dry tank. Before the Mahdia immense flocks and herds used to water
here. In the eastern and highest ridge are several rock tanks
containing water.
From Rera a road goes viâ Dimiat to
Asubri. It is more direct and better marked than the one followed,
but was not taken as the rock tanks at Dimiat were said to be dry
(January, 1900). The eastern ridge is not difficult to ascend and
commands a good view. The natives say J. Kassala can be seen from
it on a fine day during the rains. Variation of prismatic compass
about 3½° W.
There is no marked track for the first 5
miles towards El Sadda, and the going is bad over pebbles and
through long grass.
After that a well marked track is
reached, which continues the rest of the way.
Wadi Atiam
7
154½
At 7 miles, the Wadi Atiam is passed
flowing N. It goes to El Sofeiya, and as far again beyond it dies
away. Much cultivation along it. From 7 to 9½ miles the road is
rather bad and stony till it has passed the Atash hills by a short
and easy gap, and enters an open plain which extends to El
Sadda.
Several tanks are passed on the right,
known as El Farsh. Hamla 9½ hours.
El Sadda
25½
180
There are several wells here about ½ mile
W. of S. end of J. El Sadda, a low ridge running N. and S. The one
well visited was said to be 70 to 80 feet deep. Plenty of grass,
but no trees nor firewood. On the N. and W. of the hill and close
to its foot are a number of circular stone mounds neatly built,
which appear to be tumuli, and probably date from a time anterior
to the present inhabitants. The two biggest are immediately under
the highest point. From here to the Atbara there is no track and no
water. Bushes mark the drainage lines, otherwise the plains are
bare of all but grass. Much of the ground is cracked and
consequently bad going. The route followed eventually struck the
well marked track made by the Dervishes from Dimiat, and kept along
it to Asubri. At 2½ miles from Asubri the main road along the left
bank of the Atbara is crossed. Soon after, the track descends into
the broken ground which fringes both banks of the Atbara to a width
of 2 or more miles. The actual banks at Asubri are 15 to 20 feet
high and 300 yards apart. Crocodiles are plentiful. The ford in
January, 1901 was 120 yards long and 2½ feet deep.
Asubri (R. Atbara)
57
237
Hamla took 19 hours from El Sadda. A nice
shady camp on right bank for a very small party. Mosquitos few, but
particularly poisonous.
Asubri is the name of a strip of land
extending for some miles along both banks of the Atbara. On the
left bank, near the ford, is an old cemetery, and ½ mile S. is a
building formerly occupied by Abdel Rahim Wad Abu Dugal, the
Dervish Emir in command of their post here in 1897 and early in
1898.
On leaving camp, the track winds in and
out of khors and up gentle slopes through bushes, till at 2 or 3
miles it emerges on to the plain, which is of good soil covered
with scattered bush. The general direction is straight for J.
Kassala.
At about 6 miles the track from Suweihil
joins in on the right, and from this on, the road is well marked.
Many ariel and gazelle, and a few ostriches seen.
Um Siteiba
21
258
At 21 miles, Um Siteiba, commonly called
half way is passed. Here is a large natural pond for about 4 months
in the rains, but now dry. Serut fly bad when there is water
here.
About 6 miles from Kassala, the track
turns N.E. and traverses more thickly wooded country, till it
reaches the bed of the Gash, now dry, some 700 yards wide,
immediately beyond which lies the old town of Kassala.
Kassala
17
275
The old name, Taka, may now be regarded
as obsolete. The former town is a complete ruin, of which nothing
remains except the circular bastions. The new town has been built
close by the S.E. and consists largely of Tukls. The Fort, built by
the Italians, is just E. of the N. end of the old town.
Telegraph lines from Suakin, Massawa, and
Khartoum viâ Gedaref meet here.
UM RUEISHID
viâ SOFEIYA to ASUBRI.
Khartoum, N.
—
—
Um Rueishid
—
135¼
From Um Rueishid where the ground is very
stony, the track which is well defined, starts at a bearing of 112°
from true N., and very soon K. Abu Jerraba is crossed flowing N.,
it is said to eventually unite with the Wadi Khasa.
Wadi Khasa
7½
142¾
There are signs of a good deal of
cultivation along this wadi.
J. Um El Gurud
1½
144¼
J. Um El Gurud, a low rocky hill about ¼
mile long is passed about 1¾ miles to S. and 3 miles further on
Sheikh
Sh. Naim’s Tomb
1½
145¾
Naim’s tomb,
conspicuous on top of a gentle slope, is passed on N. side of the
road. Open bushless grass country continued until nearing El
Sofeiya, where scattered bush and granite rocks appear. There are
some forty wells here, though water supply decreases considerably
in the dry season, they vary from 50 to 100 feet in depth.
El Sofeiya
9½
155¼
15½
170¾
The people here, who are Shukria under
Sh. Ahmed Mohamed Abu Sin, live in tents made of matting; there are
no permanent buildings of any sort, and the encampments are small
and scattered. The direct road to Kassala, which is difficult to
trace for the first mile or so after leaving the wells, soon
becomes well defined, having been much used during the Mahdia, and
leads over open flat grassy land from J. Gurun, which it leaves
about 2½ miles to the S. Khors Royan (7 miles) and Atshan (11½
miles) being crossed en route, flowing N.
Wadi Giref
6½
177¼
J. Giref is passed about 3 miles N. of
track and Wadi Giref is crossed about a mile further on.
From here to J. Dimiat is about 15 miles,
Wadi Girgoja being crossed at about half way.
J. Dimiat
15
192¼
A granite hill about 100 feet high. There
is a natural tank about half way up, inaccessible for camels, which
after a good rainy season contains water till the end of January,
but is not to be relied on. There is a certain amount of laot bush
around the base of the Jebel, which serves as firewood, and some
detached boulders give shade for a small party.
Ogba El Bagar
18
210¼
From here to the Atbara valley about 33
miles there is no bush, with the exception of two thin belts called
Ogba El Bagar about 5 miles apart.
7½
217¾
The road bifurcates, one to Gandaua, Sh.
Omara Abu Sin’s village on the Atbara, the other is the Dervish
track to Asubri. The route taken (January, 1901) was neither, but
direction lay for 3 miles S.E., and then due E. through scattered
bush to edge of plateau.
Edge of Plateau
8½
226¼
From this point Jebels Kassala, Abu
Gamel, &c., are plainly visible. Also are several small hills
some 10 miles to the S. and S.W. named Bereirob and El Gatar,
whilst J. Leinun is visible a similar distance to the N.
Asubri
2¼
228½
The road now descends a khor by easy
gradients to the bed of the Atbara at the well known Meshra of
Asubri.
By Captain W. A. Boulnois,
April, 1900.
General Remarks. Road.From Goz
Regeb, a ruined town of mud houses almost entirely deserted to Sheg
el Walia, there is no track, and the country is bare till within 30
miles of Sheg. Hence to Geleita there is a badly defined track and
none from Geleita to Abu Deleig. From the latter to Shendi the
track is well defined most of the way, and there seems to be a
considerable amount of traffic; parties bringing dura from Rufaa to
Shendi, and one party from Metemma with goods to sell in Abu Deleig
market were met.
The track disappears 10 miles short of Shendi.
The going is good at this time of year all the way; wherever
tracts of strong rich soil and wadis are crossed, and there are
many, it would be impracticable in the wet season at times.
From Abu Deleig to Shendi the going is good enough, probably all
the year round, but many deepish khors would form serious obstacles
in the rains.
The Atbara was 2½ feet deep, and 60 yards wide.
Supplies.A fair amount of dura is
grown near Sheg and Geleita. It was easily obtainable there in
small quantities.
A great deal is grown in Hawad, a very fertile district, and
also a certain amount in Abu Deleig in good years, but it all
depends on the rainfall. Very little from Abu Deleig to Shendi.
Wood.Firewood is not to be
obtained between Goz Regeb and within 10 miles of Abu Deleig;
plenty elsewhere.
Water.None from Goz Regeb to Sheg,
about 65 miles.
Tanks very numerous near and in Hawad.
Water only obtainable at Ladda, between Abu Deleig and Shendi;
but there are numerous tanks, though all dry at this time.
Water is of good quality, especially at Abu Deleig.
Inhabitants.From Goz Regeb to
Hawad, Shukria; round Abu Deleig, Batahin; at Ladda, Ababda and
Hassania.
Grazing.Very good grazing from
Sheg to Shendi.
Cultivation.Large tracts and areas
capable of growing good crops of dura if rains favourable.
Game.Nothing to shoot between
Atbara and the Nile at this time of the year.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Atbara
—
—
Descending the bank by the hut on the E.
bank the Atbara is crossed and the W. bank ascended ¼ mile S.
Elsewhere the banks are steep, but the
bush is not very dense. Track leads to Goz Regeb. The ruined brick
buildings of the old Egyptian town are still standing, and amongst
them the decayed tukls of Osman Digna. A very few inhabitants,
descendants of the ancient town of Goz are living there still. The
site is on high ground, and light sandy soil, a few dom palms, and
the remains of an old garden and cemetery are still visible.
Goz Regeb
1
1
Counting from huts on
the E. bank, the distance to the town is 1 mile. The direction
taken, about 260° from the true north, leaves the town of Goz Regeb
on the N., and passes from sandy undulating ground to level rich
soil with very little grass and trees, getting scarcer through El
Uera district, leaving the two hills of El Darei on the north side;
at about 9 miles the direction taken leads straight to Bewadda.
Under the hills of El Darei are bushes and grass.
Bewadda
15½
16½
Bearing from Bewadda to Sabaat 162°,
Erembat 81°, Takallaareid 343°. Bewadda is a granite rock in the
middle of a bare tract.
At 20 miles a ridge about ¼ mile long,
quite low, stands 1 mile to the N.; hence the ground is perfectly
bare till about 50 miles. Wadis coming from south begin to empty on
the plain, then the going becomes bad in places, especially in the
cracked soil near the Wadis. Grass gets more plentiful.
At 51 miles Wadi Royan is crossed, and
shortly after Wadi El Doleb and Wadi Sangareh; dura is grown about
these wadis.
J. Ikhbeit
36
52½
Bearing to J. Ikhbeit 209°.
The broad Wadi El Abil is crossed at 59
miles; there are bushes and firewood in it. Four miles further on
the ground becomes stony after crossing Wadi Wad Masuga, and rises
gentle slope of stony ridge.
Shag El Walia
13½
66
Shag El Walia is
reached after crossing a second ridge. It is generally called
simply Shag, no connection with Sheikh. Four wells in use out of
14; 120 feet deep, water constant; 200 camels could be watered
daily. A badly defined track leads over a valley with rich soil
across Wadi Baseyayi, then gently up another stony ridge and
plateau down to Geleita where are 7 wells in use altogether, about
120 feet deep, water constant. There are several wells unopened. A
good many flocks and inhabitants.
Geleita
14½
80½
Isna Bir
17½
98
Leaving the main group of wells, a track
is followed down bed of khor to the foot of the ridge in N.W.
direction, fairly free from stones, past two wells at ¾ mile, and
one well at 1¼ miles. The track disappears and rich soil and
pasture land is crossed to Isna Bir, where there are 2 wells giving
a scanty supply of water, and a few people (Batahin); a few patches
of corn were noticed on the way.
Abu Deleig
25
123
Hence the direction taken is nearly W.,
crossing a very fertile tract of country; many water tanks, now
dry, then over the rich land of Hawad, and rising a gentle slope
touches the Khor Girgegi, which waters the Hawad, about 1 mile
short of Abu Deleig.
Good shade all round. Large number of
wells.
2
125
The best place for a
small party is 2 miles higher up the Girgegi. A well defined track,
starting N.W. across Wadi Shilha and leads over good pasture land
with many mimosa trees and sandy soil to Ladda. A large tank hewn
out of the rock in the middle of a grass plain. Plenty of water,
1/4/00, diameter about 100 feet, depth in middle 5 feet, said to
last all the year. Many flocks; Ababda and Hassania tribes. Tomb of
Atali close to the tank. The track leads past several stony ridges
and sandy soil, across 3 or 4 khors, notably Fehed, and is lost
about 7 miles from Shendi, which is reached descending a long very
gradual slope from the high plateau at the foot of J. Girenat and
Neheidat. Distance taken to Gubba Shendi.
Ladda
20
145
Shendi
41
186
By Major Bulkeley Johnson, Scots
Greys, October, 1901.
General Remarks. Road.From El
Damer to Goz Regeb the road is stony and sandy, with open desert or
open bush. Going: good for horses in open formation but slightly
heavy; for artillery, heavy, with a strain on the horses the whole
journey. I should suggest some form of detachable broad sand tyre
to prevent sinking of the wheels, as suggested in Journal of
Artillery Institute, of, I think, September, 1901.
From Goz Regeb to Sofi the road is a single track through long
grass on a high plateau, 2 or 3 miles from river, which is
difficult of access owing to broken ground gradually sloping to
river, which is cut up by innumerable khors, water courses, and
bush.
The going over the single track is good for horses, but bad for
guns, as both horses and wheels must go through the long grass, and
horses’ feet are continually slipping inwards as the track is
narrow and generally deep. At times, as between Sofi and Mogatta,
the path is completely lost and overgrown with kittr—bad enough for
single horses, but still worse for pairs or led horses; the gun
horses on two occasions coming in red with blood from shoulders
down. I would suggest outside blinkers for gun horses in bush to
protect the eyes from thorns.
Water.During first portion of
road, El Damer to Goz Regeb, the river is difficult of access owing
to thick bush and high banks, except in recognized meshras, often
far apart. Water very good; camps good and shady.
On second portion, Goz Regeb to Fasher, river often 3 miles
away, and very difficult of access. Meshras very few owing to
broken ground, thick bush, and deep khors running in every
direction; camps fair and shady.
Grasses.On Atbara up to Goz Regeb,
halfa grass is plentiful along the banks. After El Fasher plenty of
green abu rokba, abu arid, and neghil, by far the best being abu
arid, which, green or dry, is always taken by the natives in
preference to any other for horses and cattle. Naal is apparently
no use as food, but adaa or false dura is better than nothing.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Damer
—
—
El Basli
14
14
Road across stony desert. Small village,
150-200 inhabitants, about 4 miles S. of Abadar Meshra. Dom fringe,
½ mile broad; outside this, stony desert. Two roads—one through
doms, the other outside—single track over stones.
From El Busli.
Outside road taken.
¾
14¾
Meshra Umdebia.
Amerab
3¾
18½
Amerab village, ½
mile from river; 50 grass tukls, two mud houses. Big house standing
alone. Sheikh Omar.
2
20½
Minawi
1¼
21¾
Meshra very good.
Goz El Halag
4
25¾
Opposite to Goz El Halag (meshra) a few
tukls. Road still 2 miles from river. Country changes. Soil becomes
loamy, with some sand and scattered bush. River bank lined with
doms.
Girsi
5¼
31
Village. Cultivation by sagias; big
meshra 2 miles north. Road shortly goes through dura (rain crops),
therefore patrol skirted outside this. Country as before; open
bush, mostly tundub; no road.
Debbet Bush
3
34
Opposite to big village Debbet. Bush W.
of outer road; about 2 miles from river. Water from 2 wells.
Burush
4
38
Opposite to; a few tukls, meshra.
Abaka
3
41
Ditto.
Helal
7
48
Ditto, meshra. Cultivation, and a few
tukls fairly close; bush mixed with doms, about 1 mile broad from
river.
Shigil
2
50
Meshra. Cultivation
on and near river. Meshra in a small pool, nearly dry (Oct. 16th).
Island, ½ mile long; plenty of neghil grass. Village of Shigil,
about 20 tukls; ½ mile from river in bush.
1
51
Garada
1
52
Meshra. Road enters dura 1½ miles from
river; narrow path through thickets.
Marzuga
2
54
Meshra.
5
59
Bush ends. Road enters open sandy desert
which stretches down to river, on banks of which fringe of doms,
½-1 mile wide.
El Rimta
3½
62½
Arab encampment. (No meshra.) Road close
to river. Road runs along river bank through doms and cultivation
for ½ mile, then open sandy desert with sunt and tundub right down
to bank; sand hills.
El Awadi
3½
66
Meshra (very good). Good shade for camp.
Heavy going for guns. No road.
10
76
Good meshra. No signs of
cultivation.
Adarama
4
80
Meshra opposite Adarama.
3
83
Ferry for Adarama. A fringe of bush,
about 1 mile broad, along river; outside this, open flat desert
with a few tundub bushes. Road at times 2 miles from river, across
bends, and approaches it at mile 97.
14
97
Meshra, very good (rocky bed);
shady camp. Fringe of bush impenetrable (except at meshras) along
bank, about 10 yards broad. This continues for a long distance.
Road close to river.
Amiam
10
107
Meshra, by small khor; sandy bank, ¼ mile
broad; no inhabitants; going, sandy and bad.
Taroma
6
113
Meshra. Bisharin tukl
village; about 30 people; flocks; cultivation of dukhn on sandy
banks. Meshra, good; dukhn on sandy banks. No signs of
inhabitants.
4
117
11
128
No meshra, but able to get down to river
by group of doms; sandy banks, not much grass (halfa). Road goes
away from river to cut off bend.
5½
133½
Road divides: right hand to Goz Regeb
direct, left keeping near river. Followed left; going becomes
worse, with small khors when near river.
Auli
2½
136
Arab encampment. Meshra.
6
142
Very good meshra; open space on
bank. Fine view of river part of Auli. No grass.
2
144
Meshra. Arab encampment; dukhn,
plenty of halfa grass. End of Bisharin tribe.
3
147
Arab encampment. Arteiga branch of
Hadendioa. Great quantities of sheep, cattle and camels.
G. Tukwe on west, J. Ofreik on east, just
visible from here.
Succession of small meshras and
encampments.
4
151
Meshra.
2
153
Meshra.
1
154
Cemetery; stony ground.
3
157
Path debouches into open alluvial plain
(short grass and tundub bushes) cutting off bend.
5
162
Approach river, near which country is
broken and stony. Meshra bad; no grass except a little abu
rokba (slightly bitter taste when green, and of which some horses
will not eat at first until accustomed). Flocks and cattle. Road
from 148th mile close to river, over very rough, broken, stony
ground, and at times thick bush. Several small meshras. Goz Regeb’s
two hills visible for first time.
Saraf
6
168
Arab encampment; meshra.
Goz Regeb
12
180
Meshra—1 mile short of it—under palms.
Camp (bad), 2 miles further on, at ferry. Camel post opposite;
grass, halfa.
This road makes Goz Regeb 100 miles from
Adarama.
From Goz Regeb the road proceeds at about
3 miles from river on a flat table land, as the ground between it
and the river is rocky and broken by innumerable small water
courses and khors called by natives “karrab.” The going is over
alluvial soil, rather heavy. A single track with naal grass on
either side.
Distances are given exclusive of detours
down to meshras.
Gebuib
18
198
Meshra, very good. Good camping ground;
halfa grass. No inhabitants.
10
208
To meshra, about 3 miles.
6
214
Ditto.
Umraho
4
218
Ditto. Very good meshra; deep khors on
either side. Bend in river to east; ford (27th Oct. 1901). Country
near meshra very broken and rough. On turning down this meshra the
tops of two small hills are visible on right front. From here road
about 3 miles from river; going gets harder when nearing
Asubri.
8
226
In line between the two hills and Kassala
hill.
10
236
To meshra.
Omara
1
237
Small village, about ½ mile E. of
road.
3
240
To meshra, good. E. 3 miles to
river. Fair camp; abu rokba, but no halfa grass.
3
243
To Asubri. The road here divides at right
angles: left to Asubri, right direct to El Fasher, described as
about 30 miles and track far from river. Therefore took river
road—very bad.
Asubri
3
246
Asubri. From here road goes about 1 mile
from river and becomes very good and hard. Country open with trees
and short grass. After 10 miles becomes “Karrab” (ground broken by
small water courses) again.
12
258
A meshra. Hundreds of camels,
thousands of sheep and goats belonging to Lahawin Arabs. Good
meshra. Bad camp; no grass.
13
271
El Fasher District. Country changes to
park-like land—short grass dotted with trees.
El Fasher
2
273
El Fasher village and fort. Water from
ford.
Ford
4
277
Ford; good meshra and camp. Last ½ mile
“karrab”; Abu Rokba grass.
Compiled in Intelligence Office,
Khartoum.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khartoum, North
—
—
Railway terminus,
&c. The road leads nearly due east, viâ tomb and well
of Haj Yusef (Batahin), about 80 feet deep, water good but not
plentiful, to Bir Babekr, about 110 feet deep, water good and
plentiful. Scattered salam and tundab bush. Inhabitants
Batahin.
Bir Haj Yusef
4½
4½
Bir Babekr
4½
9
After leaving Babekr the road traverses
bare level ground covered with scattered samr and selem trees.
Hafir Medeisis, where Hassania Arabs live and extract salt during
the rainy season, is passed, and later Hafir El Wadi, near which is a low stony hill
named El Gaber. Near Kalamon are hafirs named Nuba and Um Denun,
where also salt is extracted by the Hassania.
Bir Kalamon
8
17
Well 180 feet deep,
water rather salt, but very plentiful. From here the direct road
passes Hafir El Kheila, the country is flat and covered with
scattered samr trees and homra and meharib grass. The road leads to
a stony hill named J. Dura, after which the following tanks are
passed: Jan Kilwa, Um Gedodeima, and Gala Um Johanis, over which
the road passes; beyond this is Wadi Safra, where Hassania Arabs
cultivate.
J. Dura
12
29
Wad Hassuna
30
59
A village of mud houses and well of this
name; also the tomb of Sheikh Hassan Wad Hassuna, near which is a
large hafir called Ghobasha. Natives here Hassania, under Sheikh
Hassan Meki. Country continues flat, and covered here and there
with kitr and samr trees, also homra and meharib grass; road is
stony and several khors cross it.
Hafir Kabarus
4½
63½
After Hafir Kabarus, three others by name
El Biyut are past.
Hafir Amria
7
70½
A very large tank, J. El Sada, is passed
to the south.
Bir Agab
8½
79
Two wells, about 90 feet deep, water good
and plentiful. Mogharba, Hassania, Batahin and Ababda Arabs live
about here. Several hafirs here, chief of which are Alatib and
Balako. The latter lies 1½ miles south of the road, and is said to
have been dug by the “Kufr” or heathen.
Khor Jegjegi
—
—
After leaving Agab
the road soon runs alongside Khor Jegjegi, which it continues to
follow to Abu Deleig. Kittr, sayal, heglig, and samr trees border
the khor, which some 8 to 10 miles further east joins Wadi Hawad.
There are about 50 wells in the Abu Deleig district, 70 to 100 feet
deep, but in the rainy season water can be obtained from Khor
Jegjegi near the surface. At Abu Deleig all the natives live in
dom-mat tents, and here is the residence of Sheikh Mohammed Talha,
head Sheikh of the Batahin, who are the principal inhabitants.
There is a police officer and police post here.
Abu Deleig
10
89
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
January, 1903.
There are at least three roads.
The western goes by Abu, or El, Gassas, a district apparently
included in another called Rotamat (I am not sure of this). Last
water at Abu Gassas. It afterwards passes some cultivation, but no
water except in autumn.
The eastern goes by Tundub and Wad Arrak, where last water is,
and joins the middle road about 10 miles from Geili.
The middle one was followed, and is described below.
No real road to begin with, simply tracks from village to
village. For the first 9 miles, as far as the village of Kemeilab,
through cultivation all the way. Several villages on either side of
road. Then through thin laot bush, but plenty of cultivation round
about.
Place.
Hours.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Rufaa
—
—
—
—
Track is good all the way; no steep
gradients, difficult khors, nor thick bush. Probably bad after
rain.
Tunbul El Jaalin
4
4
12
12
Good sized village of Jaalin, with well.
There are two other villages close by called Tunbul El Agada and
Tunbul El Eishab. Cultivation all the way; many villages seen.
Abu Zeid, Wad Um Balli
3
7
9
21
A poor village. Well 250 yards S.E.;
village of Musaiab close by to N. Track continues mostly through
thin low laot bush, but some cultivation is passed. Some villages
lie on right, but are not conspicuous. Passes village of Um
Hageir.
Um Shinshin, or Um Shinashin
2¾
9¾
8
29
Thin straggling village; well, on road;
last water on road. On through low laot and grass, with very little
cultivation, passing the small village of El Gura; no well; last
village on road.
Um Ganatir
—
—
5
34
Tank, a boundary point of Rufaa District,
used to be a man’s depth, but now nearly filled up.
Mufad Wad Dereid
—
—
7
41
Tank.
4½
14¼
1
42
Road crosses a belt of laot giving good
firewood; no more for two hours, though there are belts of kittr a
mile or two on each side. Geili just visible 29½° (true). Jebel
Lebaitor just visible in early morning to S. On over grassy plain,
apparently rising. Direction of road some degrees E. of Geili.
Wadi Mofad
2¼
16½
6½
48½
Marked by a belt of thin kittr some 250
yards wide. Must be boggy after rain. Two tanks on each side of
wadi. The place is called something like Rufa Wa Fagusa, Rufa
applying to one pair of tanks and Fagusa to the other, but I am not
sure of the names, nor which applies to which.
The Wadi Mofad, I was assured, rises near
Abu Deleig, and flows S. The wadis of Bahogi and Ankia passed on
the Um Dibban—Geili road form part of it.
E. of the wadi the Tundub road joins in,
and the united road makes straight for Jebel Geili.
2¼
18¾
6½
55
Road crosses a branch of Wadi Mofad
coming from the E. of Jebel Geili. Some kittr and other trees.
Track begins to get stony, particularly as Jebel Geili is
neared.
J. Geili
2¼
21
6½
61½
Wells at S. end of Jebel Geili close to
the carved rock.
By Lieut.-Col. Mitford (1899) and
Captain H. H. Morant (1900).
The direct and more generally used road to Mogatta starts from
Gedaref in a nearly northerly direction, and leaves J. Buadra about
1¼ miles to the right, and the scene of the battle of Gedaref ¼ of
a mile on the left hand. After passing through much cultivation and
high grass, the filthy village of Wad Gabu on the top of a small
hill is reached. The water supply of this village is from a well
some 2½ or 3 miles to the W. or S.W., and animals have to be sent
there, as very little water is obtainable at the village itself.
There is a rest house here.
J. Kassamon is visible nearly due N. About 2¼ miles further on
the telegraph line and an alternative route from Gedaref,
viâ Seraf El Buadra and Bir Rowajda, which is generally
dry, joins in.
From here to R. Atbara, at Mogatta, there is no water, and the
country is most uninteresting. In the rains the scrub and scattered
bush is almost concealed by high grass; this is burnt in the dry
season, and the country then is bare black cotton soil, and devoid
of any grazing for animals. About 12 miles from the river dense
bush, chiefly kittr, begins, and continues until the halting place
at Mogatta is reached. This road is nearly 20 miles shorter than
that viâ Sofi.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gedaref
—
—
The track to Sofi leaves Gedaref in a
N.E. direction, passing down a valley between gardens, cultivation
and high grass; several hamlets half a mile distant on either side
of road. A gentle ascent on N. side of valley to N.E. corner of a
low flat hill called J. Buadra.
Khor Seraf El Buadra
3
3
This khor crosses the path near corner of
J. Buadra. One well, upper portion stone faced; 24 feet deep, 5
feet diameter, 4 feet of water. Two similar wells near track, one ½
a mile, the other 1 mile further on. From this point track is a single camel path,
winding among high grass or through bush; in places very stony.
Ground on either flank cracked cotton soil.
2
5
Top of pass is reached; the small hamlets
of Um Shedra, Hissainad, and Turfur are seen in succession on the
left hand of the track.
2½
7½
A rise in the ground known as Gumerab is
reached. On far side of it track descends sharply for 40 feet, over
rocks and stones on to a plain. General direction E. by N. Some
dukhn or dura patches; rest of the ground covered with high aada
and shush grass. 5 feet high.
4¼
11¾
A copse of talh trees is passed through.
For the next 5 miles are scattered trees along the path, with
copses of hashab trees a few hundred yards to a mile on either
side; shush, aada, naal and Umdenaib grasses.
4¾
16½
A shallow excavation to catch rain-water
is seen on left, 100 yards off. General direction E.N.E. At the
24th and 27th miles, two more small rain-water reservoirs are
passed.
Khor Bitnasr
15½
32
This khor is here crossed; it trends
northwards and runs into the Khor Tomat. Ground now ascends
slightly and is more broken, and track crosses several small khors.
At the 34th mile the edge of the plateau is reached, and a sharp
descent of 90 feet ensues.
Sofi (Rest house)
3
35
A straggling village of a hundred men
(Jaalin) on spurs running down to the Atbara 400 yards away. At
date the river is easily fordable, the water not being knee deep
and 20 yards broad near the village. From this point the track as
far as El Fasher follows the course of the river on the left bank,
and distant from it 1 to 5 miles. The bush and jungle prevent
approach from the track, except at the watering places in use. From
Sofi the track winds up to the plateau in a N.W. direction along
and in khors. On reaching this plateau, after a mile, the track
bears generally due N. Quarter of a mile of dura cultivation is
passed through, then the path runs along the flat top of a
watershed draining into the Atbara on the right, and into the Khor
Tomat on the left.
One and a half miles E. of the Atbara the
Setit runs parallel with the river and the khor until its junction
with the former. Going is now very bad, kittr, laot, talh and sant
close to the path; cracked cotton soil. At the 43rd mile the track
descends with twists and turns towards the river, and just before
reaching Khor Tomat some salt workings are passed through.
Khor Tomat (Rest house)
9½
44½
The khor near its junction with the river
is 30 yards wide and 4 feet deep. It takes its name from a mound
near the khor with two knolls (Tomat = twins). Formerly there were
several hamlets in the neighbourhood, but no traces exist.[11]
The nearest hillet to the river was Wad Abu Hamed, just N. of the
khor. Easy access to water at date. Track winds over undulating
ground intersected by khors, below the plateau 1 to 2 miles distant
to the westward. Trees not quite so thick or close.
Khor Um Garra
4
48½
The Atbara is again reached here, about 1
mile N. of its junction with the Setit, which brings down at this
time of the year more water than the Atbara, and appears to be a
broader and finer stream.
Good watering place.
The path leaves the river in a N.W.
direction over broken and undulating ground for 1 mile. The plateau
is reached and again thick bush and trees are passed through. At 55
miles J. Akelai is visible through a break in the trees, nearly due
E.
Khor Fatut
11½
60
Track winds down to this khor, and then
for 1½ miles passes over very broken ground. Track then improves;
the country is not so closely wooded, and several open spaces are
traversed.
Mogatta (Rest house)
10
70
No village; grazing and watering place of
the nomad Arabs. The river is 12 miles from the track. Several
large islands in the Atbara here, the water in the dry season
passing down by the left bank. Lions are plentiful here.
Here the direct road from Gedaref comes
in. From this point the road improves considerably. Troops can move
on a broader front, and the soil, though still cotton, is not so cracked;
the earth has a slightly red tinge. Occasionally belts of bush are
traversed. At the 92nd mile the track descends, and the ground
becomes very broken. The remains of an old Dervish post on a spur
are seen 400 yards to right.
M. Khashm El Girba
23½
93½
Track here meets the river; a tributary,
or branch of the Atbara, comes in here on the opposite bank, with
water still in it. Broken country is again traversed, and many
knolls and khors are passed until the plateau is again reached.
Trees are larger, and ground covered with gau grass, excellent for
grazing cattle and sheep.
Dervish earth work
3
96½
A square Dervish earthwork, each side
about 80 yards long, is passed on right. This was the site of El
Fasher village when it existed.
El Fasher ford (Rest house)
4
100½
At date, river was 50 yards broad, 18
inches deep at the most at the ford.
Bottom of bed consists of shingle.
Quarter of a mile up stream on the right bank is the site of the
post held by a detachment from the Kassala garrison in 1898.
On leaving the ford, track leads up the
ascent to the plateau for 2 miles, and passes over very broken
country intersected by khors. Then the path is excellent; large
open spaces are divided by belts of trees. J. Kassala bears
E.N.E.
El Mellawiya
22
122½
An open (now) grassy space, where
rain-water collects and stands from July to October. Serut flies
bad at that season, also snakes. Attempts to make a well here have
so far been abortive.
Old well
5
127½
An old government well is passed on
right, now filled in. Country now becomes closer, and trees with
bright green leaves become more numerous; track narrows
considerably[12] as the Khor El Gash is reached, though movement
is possible between the trees on either flank. At the 135th mile,
the minaret of the Khatmia is visible to the right, and soon the
factory chimney of Kassala is visible to the front.
Khor El Gash
12½
140
The left bank of this khor is reached;
600 to 700 yards broad.
Kassala
½
140½
Old town and Egyptian fort, now in
ruins.
By Col. Collinson and Captain H.
H. Morant, 1898.
(Corrected up to 1900.)
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gedaref
—
—
From Gedaref the road
usually taken leads in a S.E. direction, and passes through much
cultivation to wells situated in a khor midway between the villages
of Dalasa and Gabeisha. From here the road continues to pass
through rain cultivation, which extends on both sides of the roads
more or less continuously almost as far as the eye can reach until
6 or 7 miles from Shasheina, after which only occasional patches
are seen.
Wells
2¼
2¼
Shasheina (Rest house)
14¾
17
Several groups of tukls belonging to
Debania and Takruris on western slope of a low ridge. Two good
wells with any amount of good water, roughly 30 to 40 feet
down.
7
24
Leaving here the track skirts the bottom
of the ridge and leads in a southerly direction over stony, bad
going for about 2 miles, when it bends to S.E. and passes over an
open plain to the E.; on the W. forest begins. The wells of Amzuani
and Galaat Eila are passed 2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of the
track.
J. Doka is now visible right ahead.
The path here enters forest which
continues to Doka. The soil black cracked cotton soil and the path
is occasionally stony. Hashab, soffar and talh are the trees that
predominate.
Doka (Rest house)
21
45
A very wretched village that has seen
better days. It used to be the residence of a mudir or important
official in the old government days. The remains of his palace,
&c., are still standing. Two wells, very indifferent supply;
generally dry in the middle of the day a few months after the
rains.
There is a path from here to Abu Gulud
and Sofi, also to Nogara. On leaving Doka several hills are passed,
the principal being J. Doka 2 miles to the E., and Ajerawi or
Kajerawi to the W. About 4 miles from Doka the route from Asar
joins in from the right. This road is very little used, and is
hardly noticeable. The track here becomes stony for a mile or
so.
Khor Kefaia
8
53
Khor Kefaia, running W.
Khor Kanin
3½
56½
Khor Kanin, also running W.
Seraf Said (Rest house)
10
66½
Several small villages and two wells in
the khor of this name which is the boundary between Gedaref and
Gallabat. Wells 30 to 40 feet deep; fair supply. From here a road
goes W. to Durraba[13] near the Rahad, and there is a track,
made by honey hunters, to the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 miles
eastwards.
For the first 2 miles after leaving the
wells a good deal of dura and dukhn cultivation is passed through,
and then forest with some quite fine trees begins and continues to
within a mile of Gallabat.
Khor Kuneina (Rest house)
15
81½
The hills of Ras El
Fil, where this khor originates, are passed 2 miles on the right.
Up to January water is obtainable slowly from holes about 3 feet
deep in its bed. Later these become dry. Fine ardeib tree. Thick
forest, chiefly talh and heglig, continues to Khor Otruk, where
water stands in a pool all the year round. There are also wells
near, from which several small villages obtain their water.
Khor Otruk
7
88½
The road now ascends an easy slope for
about 2 miles, and hills are passed to the right and left. From the
top of this ascent Gallabat is visible, and ½ mile before reaching
it a small khor with running water is crossed.
Gallabat
4½
93
Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet above
the town which lies at foot of slope about 400 yards E. Water from
stream, which constitutes boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards E. of
fort.
[There is an alternative route
viâ Asar. This is however very little used. It was taken
by the two companies of Soudanese troops who first occupied
Gallabat in December, 1898. It had been previously used a good deal
by Dervish fugitives to and from Gedaref. The water supply along
the Doka road is now better and is sufficient, if troops march at
night, without carrying any great amount of water:—
Gedaref
—
—
A rather stony track
in places leads across open country covered with high grass and
dura to Asar. This is a Debania village and residence of their head
Sheikh, Wad Zaid, and is situated at the S.W. end of a ridge 300
feet high and 1½ miles long, running nearly N. and S. Here there
are two good wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s force of 3,000 to
4,000 men besides women, &c., for more than three weeks. A road
leads from here to Beila, also to Shasheina.
Asar
10
10
Leaving Asar, several deserted villages
were passed, and after traversing undulating open country for 8
miles, talh and soffar forest commences.
Khor Tagala
15
25
Water in holes in
rocks by the road side. It has the usual stagnant rain-water taste
and smell, but is said to last all the year round. Large baobab
close to water. The track continues through forest with occasional
open spaces to Khor Ardeiba.
Khor Ardeiba
15
40
A large khor running W. between hills.
Water is found in several places in the rock on the side of the
hill on left bank of khor. The supply was very scanty at beginning
of December, and is not to be relied on.
J. Kajerawi
10
50
For the first 3 or 4 miles after leaving
the bed of the khor the track ascends and descends several short
steep slopes; trees interfere with the path, which is somewhat
stony. It then crosses a fairly open cotton soil plain to a
stone-lined well about 60 feet deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi or
Ajerawi. As this well was not in regular use, the water tasted and
smelt, but there was plenty of it.
Four miles on the track joins in with the
main road previously described, about 5 miles S. of Doka.]
By Lieut.-Colonel B. R. Mitford,
March, 1899.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Abu Haraz
—
—
Half of a mile N. of junction of R. Rahad
and Blue Nile. Track leads through the village in an E. direction,
and 4 miles over a plain covered with grass 4 feet high after
rains; then some bush is entered which necessitates reducing front
of the column to file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ miles distant on
right flank, its banks covered with a belt of jungle. Track
consists of four to six camel tracks over cotton soil.
Meshra El Hedeiba
8
8
Half a mile before reaching this meshra,
the road bends to the S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village of Hedeiba,
and 2 to 3 miles N.E. is the village of Shegeila. A single
flat-topped samr tree marks nearest point for water. A large pool
of water always here during the dry season in the river bed. Track
passes over grassy plain covered with the usual grasses met with
along the road, viz.: aada grass, which grows in wet places as high
as 18 feet, and naal, from 1½ to 3 feet high.
Id El Maya
2½
10½
A descent of ½ mile brings one to this
khor skirted with trees; the hamlet of that name lies 2 miles from
the river; a meshra and pool here in the dry season. The hamlet of
Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same country is traversed, with occasional
belt of trees.
Khor Abu Seghira
5½
16
Track passes this khor 1½ miles from the
meshra, which is very difficult to find, owing to the jungle and
the creepers festooned from tree to tree. No pool there this dry
season.
Khoran El Homr
2
18
The “Red Khor,” of which there are three.
The second one is 1½ miles on, and the third 1 mile further on.
Each khor is thickly fringed with trees, bush, and high grass,
after rains. The track is now some 3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At
23½ miles another khor is crossed, and the ground rises into a
stony plateau.
H. Sherif Yagub
6½
24½
Track passes to E. of this village.
Inhabitants are Ashraf.
M. El Egeiga
½
25
Camping ground is on a bluff 40 feet
above bed of river; a pool of water always here in the dry season.
Natives say that in the winter months it is not a good camping
ground, as it is very feverish at night. Country now becomes much
more close, trees and bushes narrow the track in many places, and
in the autumn the high grass obscures all view to front or
flanks.
M. Abuet El Messih
5
30
This meshra is only 100 yards from the
track, but the river is somewhat hidden by the jungle. Very
unhealthy camping ground during the autumn and winter. Track
continues through bush, with occasional open spaces.
M. El Esheir
3
33
Good camping ground near track, 500 yards
from the river. Just after leaving this place, the Arang range can
be seen in clear weather. Track as before.
Ein El Lueiga
7
40
Watering place here, on the Rahad, in the
dry season; not a good camping ground during or after rains, there
being much fever. The track now leaves the vicinity of the Rahad,
and for the first 5 miles trends towards the N.E. corner of the
Arang hills. The Kassala Province is entered here.
At the 48th mile a depression is passed,
where a little water is sometimes found during the rains. Plain
covered with grass 1 to 10 feet high in October, which from that
month becomes broken down by the wind, and in March is only 2 feet
high. Track twists and turns considerably until the hills are
reached.
Galaat Arang
18
58
The track strikes these hills about 4 or
5 miles from its S. end; bush is again entered, and track becomes
very stony and covered with fallen boulders from the hills.
The hills are mostly rock, covered with
laot, and stunted baobab or tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, bustard,
guinea fowl, sand grouse, apes, and baboons in these hills. A mile
on two pools of water are formed in a shallow rocky depression
during rains, which is only fit for camels. Track follows the foot
of the hills towards the N., through bush and over stony
ground.
El Fau (Rest house)
9
67
Track passes through a gorge in the
hills, wherein are the wells of El Fau, near the E. mouth of the
gorge. One well, stone faced, 10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep;
surface of water 1 foot from top in October, 10 feet in March. The
other, stone faced, 5 feet in diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. Water,
both good. There are several other wells in the vicinity during
rains, and pools of water in holes and depressions.
Track runs along the E. foot of the hills
to the N. point; bushy and stony.
North End Arang
5
72
Near the N.W. point of the Arang hills is
H. Badad, or H. Sheikh Shah El Din; one well, now filled up.
General direction of track is now N.E. To the S. is seen J. Fines,
or Fenis, and to the S.E. is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very close;
cotton soil.
J. Bayuda
8
80
Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, low,
conical hill; some water in rocky holes during the rains. Track now
runs E. by S., and for the next 8 miles through thick bush; country
then becomes more open and covered with grass again.
Ummat Rumeila (Rest house)
19
99
A group of some five or six hills,
averaging 80 to 100 feet high. Some water in pools and holes during
rains. The track passes in a N.E. direction through the hills;
several patches of bush are traversed. At the 110th mile a narrow
belt of laot trees, 10 yards broad, commences to run alongside or
in the middle of the track; this belt follows the road for 13
miles.
Taras Wad El Fahl (Rest house)
20
119
A small depression, wherein water lies
during rains. Two thorn bushes to S. of track mark it.
Khor Abu Hashim
7
126
A descent leads to this very shallow
khor, and a similar rise takes place on its E. side. J. Tiwawa now
becomes visible to the E. Track runs over a grassy plain with not
even a shrub on it.
Khor Abu Faraga
11
137
Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near
Gedaref, and at this point the track meets it; it here turns S. The
track runs parallel with it for a mile, 2 to 400 yards distant. At
the 139th mile ground falls gently.
Um Gulgia
3
140
A stony mound on left of the track
containing several deep holes, said to contain enough water for
1,000 men and 500 camels during the rains.
Ground still falls gently, and a mile on
a small khor is crossed; then ground ascends through small
scattered soffar trees. At the 143rd mile the houses of Gedaref are
visible. Track passes several hamlets on either side, and through
much cultivation and high aada grass, along S. side of J.
Tiwawa.
Gedaref
6
146
On top of a long gentle slope.
By Major Bulkeley-Johnson,
November, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gedaref
—
—
Road leaves Gedaref from behind the old
barracks, and takes a S.W. direction for 6 miles. Scattered
cultivation of every kind. A flat basin like that N. of
Gedaref.
J. Wad Sennat
4½
4½
Small hill 100 feet high and 500 yards
long, running N.W. and S.E., with small hella S. slope.
Abu Nagar
1½
6
Tukl village. ½ mile right of road; one
of Abu Nagar group of five villages.
½
6½
Ditto on left of road.
½
7
Well 30 feet deep; water always, but only
6 feet deep; watered 80 horses in 30 minutes.
½
7½
Hella ½ mile right of road. Road bends to
S.W. by W.
1½
9
Cultivation ends. Road bad from small
bushes hidden in naal grass.
J. Matni
17
26
J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 feet
high; stony and covered with habil trees. Woods round J. Matni
(soffar and habil) to the E.
From J. Matni to Beila by direct road 2
miles are saved. After J. Matni road branches to right, straight to
Beila; left to Ghanem or Ganam (meaning water holes).
Ghanem
3
29
Small khor and 12 water holes about 8
feet deep, and water 1 foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); probably dry by
end of month (1901), rain having been slightly under average.
2
31
Joins main road nearly at right
angles.
15½
46½
Small hill ¼ mile off the road. Road
afterwards curls in between it and Beila to two small hellas on far
side.
Two small villages and two splendid wells
cut in solid rock; any amount of beautiful clear water all the year
round[15], 50 feet deep; revetted at top; very good
grasses here. From Beila a road now goes to Mafaya on the Rahad,
which is much shorter than going to Hawata.
El Fereikh
5
52
Thirty tukls; inhabited all the year
road; now water from holes dry in March, 1902.
J. Arid
5
57
Four water holes 6 inches deep, nearly
empty on arrival; when opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet muddy
water. Nov. 17th watered 80 horses three times; dry in March,
1902.
J. Gerein
—
—
Water nearly finished; 30 tukls inhabited
all year round.[16] Later on get water from Rahad, which is
here about 60 yards wide and water 4 feet deep in Nov. Banks
steep.
Hawata
18
75
Very good camp. Fairly large village
here.
Road follows the river, never more than 2
miles from it, cutting off small bends. Single track; good through
long grass; bad for guns as wheels or teams are going through the
grass. River approachable everywhere, and watering possible at all
times of year.
Camps exceedingly good under shade of
sunt trees 30-40 feet high. Grasses in abundance and good, neghil,
abu rokba and abu arid.
From Hawata track proceeds along right
bank and enters bush.
Wad Keriam
2½
77½
Part of Hawata belonging to Abu Bakr;
small hills; clearing and cultivation.
½
78
Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.
Bush and grass alternately; thick bush,
inland kittr and talh.
8
86
Grass plain. Bend of river meeting it
again at
Wad Kerein
5
91
Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, as does
all the country up to hella Sherif El Hindi.
Wad Mayim or Wad Balula
2
93
Same as Wad Kerein.
8
101
Road crosses to left bank. Ford on Nov.
13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. 24th, 6 inches deep. There is no road
on E. bank, only thick bush. From here open grass plain, bush
inland, ½ mile off river bends from road.
Between road and river a strip of country with
big red sunt trees 30-40 feet high and good grasses. The road now
strikes khor—thickly wooded leading to lagoon running W. from
river, which turns to S.W., road goes round it turning W. and
afterwards S.
7
108
Head of lagoon.
Muttu
½
108½
Road branches to right of hella—Hawata
(Arabs) 1½ miles off—300 yards from river in open bush.
1½
110
Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile of thick
bush, kitr and talh.
1
111
Khor (dry).
2
113
Big khor, nearly dry—very difficult
during rains and up to Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. 27th.
2½
115½
Small road to right, leading to big khor
thickly wooded, water 4 feet deep or lagoon.
1½
117
Khor (dry).
2½
119½
Ditto leading to meshra.
Road alternately bush and grass.
6½
126
Road branches to meshra.
6
132
Approaches meshra, 200 yards.
11
143
Deserted village, 100 yards left of
road.
Road very good, broad and hard.
3
146
Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.
10
156
Ditto to Blue Nile.
1
157
Road from meshra to hella, inland 2
miles.
4
161
Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.
3
164
Road branches to right towards river—left
to Sherif El Hindi.
Aruth Rutha
2
166
Road to Hella Aruth.
Hafeira
2½
168
Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and
herds.
Wad Rekeih
1½
170
Hella, 100 yards right of road.
Sherif
2
172
Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.
4½
176½
Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. Road
crosses river.
Abu Haraz
24½
201
(Afterwards see map).
[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, 1901;
only a slight trickle on 29th.]
By Major G. de H. Smith,
February, 1900.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Sofi
—
—
Road goes down into khor and then winding
through bushes and water courses follows crest of ridge between
Atbara and Khor Gurri, then turns E. towards Kreder.
Kreder
6
6
A village of about 100 huts on spur above
river, and not as shown on old maps.
Sherif Ibrahim
9
15
There is no road now; I went across
country, crossing ravines bordering Atbara, camels followed edge of
plateau about 5 hours’ march from Sofi. No village, only tombs of
former inhabitants. Path leads from village to Meshra on
Atbara.
Dabuli
12
27
Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. direction,
and after 1 hour struck old path from Sofi; followed this, and
after 2 hours came on cultivation. A big khor runs in N.E.
direction towards Atbara. There are old wells here and site of
village. New wells are being opened.
Goreisha
15
42
Road now crosses khor above mentioned
twice, and after 2 hours J. Tomborgu is passed on the right. From
here road crosses three big khors, and in the next Khor J. Omrad,
then cultivation of Goreisha is reached on left of road. Right side, thick
bush. Another hour and Goreisha is reached; two villages with good
wells and cultivation in khor.
Abu Gulud
4
46
Road now crosses and recrosses this khor,
which runs from Abu Gulud; after half an hour village of Salama is
passed on khor on right, and after half hour arrive at Abu Gulud.
Two villages; wells and cultivation. From here a track goes to
Doka.
Zemalat
20
66
Road leaves here in S.W. direction; about
1 mile Agala, a large village, is passed; about 4 miles on a rocky
ridge; ditto about 8 miles; about 10 miles village Lubaina. Few
huts here. People only here for cultivation; water from Zemalat
village on crest or ridge. Water from holes in khor below village,
about 1 mile away. From here a good view of hills near Doka and J.
Nahut, J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil obtainable.
Seraf Said
10
76
Road now descends from ridge, cotton soil
and bad going; about 6 miles out J. Meriod is passed on right of
track—village round other side of hill. Direct track leads off to
right to village; bad going cotton soil. Rocky water hole in Meriod
Khor not used now; about 10th mile cross Seraf Khor.
Two wells with water-tracks lead from
here to Gallabat and Duraba, and the road from Doka joins
here.
By Major C. W. Gwynn.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Abrunga
—
—
The direct route is up the khor through
the Samina group. Very little water among these hills and none on
the road.
Belitamaru
14
14
About 1 mile north of the village and
Belitamaru there are hills giving a little bed water in the Khor
Godaff.
Matongwe
11
25
Matongwe is a small Gumz village among
the rocks on the side and top of J. Matongwe. Good well at the foot
of the mountain. The mountain is a very striking needle of rock
jutting straight out of the plain.
J. Abu Ramla
12
37
No more water is
found till J. Abu Ramla is reached, and even there it can only be
obtained in any quantity from the Khor Ramla at north-east end of
mountain. There are holes in the rock on the hill side, however,
which supply the villages with drinking water.
Mek’s Village
3
40
Another route can be taken from
Famaka along the Nile to Hoburra, and thence to Belitamaru through
Abrunga, but the first portion of the road along the river is very
bad.
By Mr. E. Bonham Carter,
March, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Karkoj
—
—
R. bank Blue Nile.
Kamrab
18
18
From Karkoj, a narrow but well defined
track leads through bush, thick in places, to the village of
Kamrab, half a mile beyond which is a well and trees giving
excellent shade.
Abu Hashim
4½
22½
The R. Dinder is reached at Abu Hashim
(Sheikh El Amin), a village on the left bank. The Dinder 100 yards
wide was dry here (March, 1902), but there were water holes in its
bed.
Meshra Deberki
12½
35
The road here crosses the Dinder and
follows the river to Meshra Deberki. River dry here, and about 100
yards wide, but water holes in bed, and there is a large pool about
¼ mile up the river. No village here. Little shade at Meshra, but
plenty ½ mile further up the river.
The track here leaves the river, and
after crossing an open piece passes through thick bush for 2 miles,
after which an open grassy plain with scattered bush extends for
some distance.
The track is merely a single donkey track
over deeply cracked cotton soil, and is bad going.
Khor Atshan
17
52
Khor Atshan is crossed; a shallow khor
draining into the Dinder.
River Rahad
16
68
Track continues same with occasional bush
to the Rahad; a few tukls here. Rahad in pools.
Hawata
3
71
Three miles on down stream, Hawata is
reached on the right bank. Here there is a pool a ¼ mile long. Fine
sunt trees.
By Major C. W. Gwynn, R.E.,
1900.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Roseires
—
—
Mamuria, about 50 feet above the river on
one of the steep spurs, which form the escarpment between the
general level of the country and the lower river bank. For the
first 2 miles the road winds round these spurs close to the river.
The road hilly. Then leaving the river it gets into flat country
with thick thorn bush.
2¾
2¾
Path leads to El Damazin, a small village
on the river (not visited).
Abu Zago
2¾
5½
Village lies to the east of the road and
N. of the khor (not visited).
Khor Abu Zagoli
1
6½
A well defined channel 20 yards wide,
banks 10 feet high, and steep. Halting place for water 200 yards S.
of the khor. Water from the Nile about 1 mile. Cultivation at the
mouth of the khor. Shelter tukls at halting place.
El Kharaba
3
9½
Three ways lead to the village which lies
E. of the road not visited. Recognised camping ground, much
overgrown with trees and little clear space. No tukls, ¼ mile to
water. From here to about the 15th mile the river is inaccessible,
country flat, road good. At 15 miles it approaches the river on a
high bluff, and Dakhila can be seen. Thence road descends and would
in the wet season be very swampy. Thick jungle.
Dakhila
8½
18
Small village of about 30 tukls. Lies
very low and has all the appearance of being feverish.
Water supply in the dry season from a
muddy pool in a dried up channel, bad.
From Dakhila the road runs W. following
the river, passing the spurs of J. Maba at about the 22nd mile,
road hilly and stony. After passing Maba, country is more
open.
Khor Abu Ge
7
25
Stony 100 yards wide, banks steep.
Khor Aiwani
½
25½
100 yards wide, thickly wooded, slopes
easy.
Khor Yabis
½
26
A well defined channel 20 yards wide,
river within easy reach between Khor Aiwani and Khor Yabis.
Khor Yare
1½
27½
A well defined channel 10 yards
wide.
Abu Gemai
1½
29
Rest tukls on high bank commanding a fine
view of the river. Very good camping ground for small party. Water
close, but road to it steep. Village of Abu Gemai on opposite bank,
considerable cultivation. J. Fazogli visible.
After Abu Gemai the road leaves the
river, and water is not obtainable for some way.
Khor Zarifa
4
33
Very stony, 25 yards wide, said to rise
in J. Dimr, but more probably in J. Samina. Forms boundary between
Fazogli and Roseires.
Khor Abu Gerin
4½
37½
15 yards wide, sandy. About 1 mile, and 2
miles further on are two small khors and dom palms begin.
Ardeiba
3
40½
Recognised halting place, but tukls burnt
down. Water 200 yards distant. River narrows to about 150 yards,
river bank consisting of shingle cliffs. Village of Ardeiba
opposite scattered tukls with little cultivation.
Khor El Masella
1½
42
Wide valley ½ mile, well defined channel
in middle.
Khor El Ghana
2¼
44¼
Road to Famaka goes straight on, that to
Abu Shaneina turns down the bed of the khor and leads to the ferry.
Very rough stony foreshore.
Abu Shaneina Ferry
¾
45
One boat capable of taking horses.
Crossing about 300 yards. Village consists of scattered tukls among
cultivation. Starting place for most of the caravans to Beni
Shangul and Fadassi. Gold coinage (native) obtainable, also sheep
and dura. A few donkeys.
By Captain H. F. S. Amery,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Mena
—
—
Opposite to Senga, on R. bank Blue Nile,
Sheikh Adlan, descendant of Fung Sultans of Sennar Fungs and
Hawazma. Broad well, defined track, good going.
Lueisa (on Dinder)
15½
15½
Sheikh Ali Wad Idris, El Hamada, and some
Ashraf. At Lueisa also lives Sheikh El Agab, Head Sheikh of
Dinder.
Track keeps away from river to cut off
bends, direction about S.E. Cultivation near village.
Um Saba
7½
23
Jungle closes in on both sides track
after Kakum.
Khamisa
4½
27½
Track well defined,
soon after Khamisa enters bed of river, and comes out again same
side. Cultivation at villages, dura and semsem.
Abu Hashim
7½
35
El Hagar
—
—
Murafa
7½
42½
Most of villages on Dinder are near
pools, some have to dig for water in river bed.
Wad Bashush
2½
45
Some game seen, oribi, reedbuck,
&c.
Durraba
7½
52½
Last inhabited place on Dinder.
Meshra Sherif
8
60½
Large pool.
„ Rekeba
—
—
Path less clearly
defined; black cotton soil, badly cracked; shadeless; tracks and
droppings of elephants abundant from Duraba whole way up Dinder.
After this see no more people on Dinder.
„ Abgir
5½
66
Koka
—
—
El Laban
—
—
Refadik
12½
78½
All places from Durraba onwards are only
water pools, but were mostly hellets in old government days. Water
on Dinder excellent throughout, pools more frequent higher up
river.
Wad El Haj
11
89½
After Refadik country looks more
interesting, and good deal of game seen, ariel plentiful, fresh
elephant and buffalo tracks. From here a track made by game cuts
across large bend of river for about 2 miles. The only means of
progress for hamla after this is in bed of river. Sand heavy, but
suits the camels well.
Meshra Gazar
5
94½
Khor Gelagu
10½
105
„ Masawik
1½
106½
Beit El Wahesh
—
—
El Dueim
7
113½
Semsir
2½
116
Name applies to district around.
Um Bilbis
13
129
Um El Rug
4½
133½
In this neighbourhood game is plentiful,
such as elephant, buffalo, roan, hartebeest, tiang, ariel reedbuck,
ostrich, warthog, &c. There are also heglig, talh, kittr,
hashab, sunt, kakamot and suba trees. Forests much damaged by
jungle fires all along Dinder.
By Captain H. F. S. Amery,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Durraba.
Khor Gelagu
—
53½
A tributary on R. bank of Dinder, 53½
miles above Durraba.
Farsh El Ghani
—
—
Track (made by game)
keeps away from Gelagu on R. bank, going pretty good; woods (not
dense) alternating with large open plains, covered with high grass,
called farshes. Ras Amer is a long shallow lake, the west end about
1 mile from Gelagu (which winds very much), at this time (March) 2
miles long E. and W. by 150 to 300 yards broad. East end about 2½
miles from Gelagu. Open plains; either end of lake swarming with
game, water of lake very thick and slimy, with fishy taste owing to
millions of pelicans, geese, &c. Gave several of our men sore
throats.
„ „ Sanei
—
—
Maya Ras Amer (west end of)
6
59½
Camp
7½
67
Strike N.N.E. for Rahad (camp on road),
badly cracked cotton soil, yellow reed grass and sparsely scattered
trees, but no obstacle to hamla marching in any direction across
country, provided a couple of men go in front with axes to lop off
branches.
Warre
10½
77½
Strike Rahad at
Warre, which like all places mentioned here on the Rahad, used to
be flourishing hella in old government days, but now absolutely
deserted, and nothing to show that human beings have ever been
there.
Wad Dam
2½
80
Wad Shusha
2½
82½
River winds very much going alternately
in every direction of compass, but doubtful if any time saved by
marching through jungle on either bank-bed 50 to 80 yards
wide.
Araki
6
88½
All these places are on good pools.
Deleib Mugda
4
92½
„ „ „
El Ebeik
4
96½
„ „ „
Wad Arud
5
101½
„ „ „
Um Dakin
2½
104
„ „ „
Bed of river begins to be rocky in places
and going rough and bad for loaded camels; pools more numerous, not
over 40 yards wide in most places.
Mukleil
5
109
After here, better to march on R. bank,
river bed stony.
Meshra Abid
12
121
Soon after M. Abid leave river and strike
N.E. for Gallabat, soon strike on to track which goes from Gallabat
to Hawata made by government last year. This road was made chiefly
to enable cattle owners to take their cattle down Rahad, but they
all prefer to go viâ Gedaref because of the lions. The
road is used to a small extent by honey seekers from Gallabat.
Cotton soil badly cracked.
Babikr
28½
149½
No water till Babikr-hella; consists of
several small groups of huts, cultivation, dukhn, semsem, cotton,
dura. Inhabitants Takruris, Fors, Gunjara, &c. Country begins
to be more undulating, red sandstone, alternating with bad cotton
soil till Gallabat, stony in parts, bad going for camels.
Yunes
—
—
Village; well.
Basunda
6½
156
„ „
Kurunkula
—
—
Wallak
14
170
Sheikh of Gallabat and of these
villages—El Sheikh Sheraf Abdalla. Well.
Khor Otruk
9
179
Water in pool in khor.
Gallabat
5½
184½
By Captain C. H. Lewin,
March, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gallabat
—
—
Route follows that to Gedaref as far as
Khor Otruk.
Khor Otruk
6
6
Road here diverges to
W., crossing Khor Yabis. Water in holes in khor to right of track
under large ardeib tree. Road proceeds W. up valley through some
cultivation passing village of Sultan.
Khor Yabis
½
6½
Sultan
½
7
Well in course of construction. Water not
yet (March, 1902) found at 30 feet, but said to be near.
Road winds on through forest, up valley,
high wooded hills on either side, crosses spurs and khors. Owing to
loose stones and steep gradients, camels can only do 2½ miles an
hour.
Ras El Fil
3
10
Track passes over low pass close under
this hill, which is highest point of N. ridge, and descends
gradually to
Wallak
2½
12½
Wallak, a scattered village of Kunjaras,
one well 40 feet, fair water, 2 rakubas, about 5 acres of cotton,
and fair amount of other cultivation. Road proceeds over more level
and open country, red gravel soil, and rises to a neck just S. of
Kabushi.
Jebel Kabushi
1
13½
A conical grass
covered hill. Path descends sharply to water in hollow to right of
track, but nearly empty by middle of March.
Water
1
14½
Karnakala
½
15
Village of Kunjaras. About 12 acres of
cotton and considerable amount of other cultivation. Two wells in
khor just under village, water at 6 feet good and plentiful. Rakuba
by wells under ardeib tree. The Sheikh Ali Seru said he was a
soldier with Gordon Pasha.
Track passes through village, turning S.
just outside for a short distance.
Going not too good, stony, and as path is
only used by donkeys, is narrow for camels, who stumble a good
deal.
Khor Abu Jamfa
3
18
Open khor; small amount of water in
holes.
Kuka
2
20
Village of Kunjaras. Water comes out of
rock at bottom of deep rocky khor, which is overhung by large
tebeldi tree of about 10 feet diameter. Road winds S. and then W.
again, passing villages of Basunda and Yunis at about ½ mile
interval. These draw their water from a deep rocky khor half way
between Kuka and Basunda. Good rakubas at all of them.
Babikr
6
26
Going improves as this village is
reached. Road still winds through forest country. Very little water
left in well. Good rakuba. Sheikh describes this as half-way
between Rahad and Gallabat. Track winds to S.W. and going becomes
very bad again. Cotton soil, which gives under camels as they go
along. Track very indistinct in places.
Domajura
9
35
Road winds between 2 stony low hills of
this name. On W. side a well dug in the rock said to have been made
by Sheik Saleh Bey, formerly of Gallabat. No water now, and a bad
smell emanates from it.
Hag Bakhit
3
38
Track passes over low rocky column of
this name. One mile N.W. is ruined Deim of brother of Saleh Bey. It
lies on top of hill named Zurga.
Meshra Sirri or Abid (?)
9
47
Track gradually descends to River Rahad
passing a few stony hillocks. Bad going, over cotton soil all the
way. Meshra 2 miles N. of steep rocky hill Jebel Surur.
Good camping ground in zeriba. A certain
number of nomad inhabitants who come down to fish appear to make
this a halting place. Water clear, good, and pool deep. Swarms with
fish and crocodile, and from tracks appear to be favourite watering
place of much game, including elephant and lion.
From Babikr there cannot be said to be
any defined track. The way is shown by blazed trees and stumps of
trees cut down by clearing party. The whole way practically is bad
going, both for camels and donkeys, owing to rotten black cotton
soil. Camels go at a slow walk only. From Kuka onwards the route is
waterless, but there are plenty of likely looking places where
water might be found if wells were dug.
From Meshra Sirri, route runs roughly
N.W. along right bank of Rahad, it is marked by blazed trees here
and there. At times going very bad over cotton soil. Camels get
along with difficulty at slow walk. Sometimes going is good, but
only for short time.
Meshra Kakamut
11¾
58¾
Plenty of water in pool; good shade;
zeriba; banks very steep down to water and difficult for
camels.
Meshra Myat Bringi
1½
60¼
Track rises on to a broad low bank by
riverside, which is evidently an island when river is in
flood.
Meshra Ghaba Susa
2¼
62½
Zeriba, water ¼ mile up stream, small
amount, and very green.
Bendego
2¾
65¼
Zeriba and meshra. Banks very steep down
to water. Quarter mile further on the track passes group of 11 very
large tebeldi trees, one of which has diameter 21 feet.
Meshra tebeldi
6½
71¾
Zeriba by large tebeldi tree, water ¼
mile up stream, very steep bank and not much shade.
Meshra Sangafut
3
74¾
Sangafut, an island in stream when river
is in flood. Pool ¼ mile up stream. Banks steep down to pool. Good
shade just above. Meshra not at all apparent from road. Zeriba can
be seen from road, is built on the bank and is half way between
water and island of Sangafut. Water plentiful.
Between this and Ghaba Susa track passes
across several shallow khors but no water in them.
Meshra Deresa
7½
82¼
Half a mile from meshra, and zeriba track
strikes river at spot where broad belt of long grass intervenes
between it and river bed. Follows curve of river round on high
ground to zeriba, which is at a spot on the curve where the river
is running from N.E. to S.W. Very steep path down to water
immediately to W. end of zeriba, which was impossible for camels,
but one just possible ¼ mile E. of zeriba. Water plentiful in pool
and good. From here on trees decrease in size and become less
dense. Guide said this was formerly a large village and a battalion
was stationed here, which was cut up by Abyssinians 35 or 40 years
ago. The place was destroyed by Dervishes. The town was ½ mile N.W.
of meshra and zeriba. Several lions heard here.
Wad Betul
2½
84¾
Meshra, no zeriba, road immediately above
stream, and country much more open here. From here blazing of trees
is discontinued, and direction has to be kept (1902) by compass and
stream. Rate of progress cannot be reckoned at more than 2 miles
per hour.
Khor Semsem
7½
92¼
Broad shelving grass-grown khor running
in direction from N.E. to S.W. runs into river here. Bad meshra
just N.W. of it, little shade, and very steep banks. Water green.
1½ miles from Semsem the river bed widens and becomes muddy—until
now it has always been sandy—very good grass grows on the part from
which water has receded.
Island (name unknown)
3
95¼
River doubles back and runs nearly S.E.
and flows round an island. Track follows several broad and very
grassy and bushy khors which caused wide détours.
2¼
97½
Good spot for camp immediately above a
large pool. Banks steep and thickly wooded, though immediate site
of camp clear.
The island seems to come to an end about
¼ mile further down stream. From here the track becomes plain
again, the tree felling and blazing is regular and systematical,
and easily followed. Going improves and camels can occasionally
trot. Country becomes more open and track crosses several shallow
khors.
Meshra Abrakuba
6
103½
Track strikes river at a broad re-entrant
bend. Plentiful supply of water and gently shelving banks easy for
any animals to water. Good camping and grazing ground by the
river.
Shammam
—
—
A small tukl village of Dinka colonists.
Sheikh Dik Malek. Is situated to left of track on rising ground
among trees above river. Dura cultivation shows its presence at
some distance from the track, from which it is itself invisible.
Poor supplies; a little dura was obtained after some difficulty.
Water good and plentiful.
From here track bends inland from river
crossing the shallow khors of Wad Bikr and Malwia. The track is
indistinct and hard to follow owing to clearing having been done in
most erratic fashion. Camels have to proceed at a walk. After 7½
miles track, strikes the river again, which is dry here, and is
running round a large island, Geziret Fatna. Two miles further on
comes
Meshra Geziret Fatna
9½
119
A large shallow pool rapidly drying up.
Track runs along this pool for about 1 mile over rough going where
the two branches of the river round Geziret Fatna re-unite and
track strikes N. and then trends round to river again, striking it
at Wad El Kashedi.
Wad El Kashedi
2½
121½
A good pool, but banks steep, looks as if
an old canal formerly ran into river from W. Jebel Mogadad appears
in distance in E. direction. Going still bad. Cotton soil, but
fewer trees.
Track follows close to river bank, water
occasionally in pools, but banks steep. Two miles from Hawata track
improves and enters belt of trees through which it is well cleared.
Some cultivation about in cleared patches.
Hawata
7½
129
Fair-sized tukl village of Hamadas. Fair
supplies and good pool of water immediately beside village. Track
from here improves greatly. It is well cleared and camels can trot.
The journey from Gallabat to Hawata cut the feet of 4 out of 5
camels so badly that they were unable to proceed further. Between
Meshra Sirri and Hawata game very plentiful. Numerous tracks of
elephants; lions were heard each night. Giraffe seen twice. Ariel
frequently seen in enormous herds of over 100. North of Hawata no
more lions or elephants, and ariel became scarce. I saw natives
coursing gazelle, and they say they hunt a good deal.
Girbu
2
131
From Hawata, track winds through trees
and long grass to small tukl village on river bank with some
scattered tukls further on. Country opens out into large grass
plains dotted with bushes and clumps of trees.
Nuwar
8
139
A small tukl village to left of track
some way back from river. Jebel Beila at right angles to track,
N.E.
Wadi Nagami
3
142
A new tukl village of Hamadas rapidly
springing up. Over 30 tukls already built. People said to be
returning from khors and jebels round. A few sheep, no camels.
Mafasa
1
143
Another rapidly
increasing village of Hamadas. Signs of old tukls shown. There are
now over 30 new ones.[18] Sheep and oxen, but no camels. About ¼
mile from river. A little dura cultivated. From here, track passes
through grass plains and trees for 3 miles, and then gets into
thick bush country for another 3 miles, rising slowly the whole
time till it suddenly emerges on top of cleared, broken, and
hillocky ground, from which it descends sharply into and crosses
the river bed which is dry here. After crossing the river track
turns S.W. following round S. edge of a dry shallow branch of the
river, which is lined thickly on either bank by good-sized trees
through which path winds and gradually works round to N.E.
direction.
Abraham
6
149
Muttu
5
154
Meshra and various shifting tukl
villages, some inhabited, some deserted. People appear to come here
to build tukls before the rains begin, sow and reap dura on open
spaces between the trees, and then move on. From here track is well
defined though crossed by numerous other tracks. Trees, except on
immediate river bank, cease.
Karakeila
¾
154¾
Meshra, track to it branches off to
right.
Abbas
4½
159¼
Meshra, invisible from the path. Good
pool and shade; from this, track resumes N.W. direction.
Bir el Gamal
16¾
176
Road forks here into an eye shape. Good
meshra and distinct road down to it. It is under high trees which
show on N. side of track on river bank about ¼ mile off.
Ghabat
4½
180½
Deserted tukl village of 40 huts. Jebel
Arang is sighted bearing N.E.
5
185½
A track turns off N.E. to Jebel Arang,
and one bears to left running direct to Hafar. Main track leads on
to Meshra Kheiari.
Meshra Kheiari
6½
192
A good meshra with fair shade. Meshra El
Gelma at 191½ mile found dry. Large numbers of camels about here
grazing. From here, track to Wad Medani leaves Rahad and runs
nearly due W. on leaving the river, trees and shrubs soon cease and
cotton soil plain is crossed to Kheiari a deserted village of about
40 tukls; a deep well of about 6 feet diameter has been dug, but is
now dry. Track continues W. over plain, ground rising slightly to
Hafar.
Hafeira
4½
196½
Large tukl village over 100 tukls all
well built. Inhabited by different tribes: Jaalin (few) Hawazma,
Rufaa. One well supplies whole village, 72 feet deep and about 6
feet wide, very good water in it. Said never to run dry. Few cattle
and sheep and other supplies. Like all other places between this
and Gedaref it was laid waste by Ahmed Fedil on his march to join
the Khalifa.
From Hafar track runs W. over cotton
soil, is clearly marked. Clumps of trees and bushes in places.
Shebaga
14
210½
Small tukl village, few inhabitants.
Alarebab
9
219½
Track strikes Blue
Nile about 1 mile N. of Alarebab, and opposite Wad Medani. Ferry
across to left bank.
Wad Medani
½
220
By Captain H. F. S. Amery,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khartoum
—
—
Up to Soba, cultivation good on both
banks, though confined to a narrow strip—Sakias numerous.
Buri
3
3
L.
Kuku
1½
4½
R.
El Gereif
2
6½
Island here at low Nile.
Karkoj
1¼
7¾
R.
Um Dom Island
2
9¾
½ mile above the island are the hillas of
Um Dom R. and El Hagirat L.
Soba
4
13¾
On the R. are the ruins of the capital of
the once flourishing kingdom of Alwa; on the L. a small village.
Soba is the name of the district on both sides of the river, and
continues to Soba El Taib a village 3 miles further S. on the R.
bank.
Butri
4
17¾
Two villages of this name L. the other is
1 mile further N. From here on for many miles the character of the
country does not change. The eastern bank is covered with thick,
low thorn jungle, while the western bank is open and sandy, very
little scrub and half grass. There are patches of cultivation round
the villages, and when the water falls, a narrow strip by the
foreshore of the river is cultivated with heavy crops of dura,
lubia, sesame, melons, and vegetables. Some of the islands also are
under cultivation.
Eilafun
3
20¾
Wood station and village L., a track
leads from here to Geili about 75 miles. About ¼ mile inland on the
L. is the Government rest house of Sabil.
Dueikhla
1½
22¼
R.
Bageir
¼
22½
L.
Bageir Sharg
2½
25
R.
Bageir
1
26
L. Another small village of the same
name.
El Shereig
2
28
R.
El Gedid
1½
29½
L. First of three villages of same name
extending for 1½ miles S. Cultivation round the villages.
Awag El Darb
3¼
32¾
L. Between here and Masadia, a short
distance inland on R. bank is the village of Sheikh El Obeid.
Masadia
2½
35¼
L.
El Nuba
2½
37¾
L. Largish village ½ mile from
river.
Mahas Island, N. end
¾
38½
Mahas, S. end
2¼
40¾
Maid
1
41¾
Large village L. with Rest house on river
bank and large mosque.
Alti
1½
43¾
L.
El Nur
1
44¼
L.
Um Magad
3¾
48
L.
El Tikena
2
50
Bishagra Island
1½
51½
Villages L. and R. The one on L. large
with three mosques. Former Dervish depôt and powder factory.
Fogur
1
52½
L. Small village.
Eidag
1¼
53¾
R.
Takela
¾
54½
L.
Sayal
½
55
R.
Wad El Turabi
3
58
L.
Wad Esheib
1½
59½
R.
Belula Kasembar
¾
60¼
L.
Kalkol
1¾
64½
L. Opposite S. end of island of same
name.
Kamlin
2½
64½
L. Head quarters of the Blue Nile
Province, a large and growing village with market place, post and
telegraph offices, and a good rest house in a grove of date palms
at N. end of village. Inhabitants Jaalin and Danagla. More
cultivation from here S. Country also much more wooded. Rest
house.
Metemma
1½
66
R. 1 mile inland. The road on the R. bank
to Rufaa goes inland viâ the villages of Metemma, Branko
and Deim.
Hamed El Nil
5½
71½
Branko
½
72
Some way inland R.
Um Degersi
½
72½
L. Two villages close together.
Abd El Magdi
1
73½
L.
Helalia
2
75½
R. Large village.
Abu El Ashr
1½
77
L. Helawin district commences here.
Bueida Island
3½
100½
Hegeir
3
103½
R.
Wad Abu Furur
3½
107
L. Large village with Government Rest
house. R. bank wooded.
Hassa Hisa
4¾
111¾
L. Commonly called Hassai, largish
village, the direction of the river after this is N.E. to Rufaa.
Hassai and Rufaa being at the points of the curves of the S. known
as the Rufaa bend. Rest house.
Rufa’a
5
116¾
R. Wood station. Former grain stores. Ali
Wad Abu Sin, and Wakil el Amin Abu Sin, SS. Alla Hemrab L. Rufa’a
is said to be the second largest town on the Blue Nile. It stands
some little way back from the river, and is a fairly populous
place. Its inhabitants are a branch of the Shukria tribe of Arabs,
and call themselves Rufaa-Shukria. Good crops are raised on the
foreshore and islands in the vicinity, and melons are cultivated,
upon an extensive scale on the flats up-stream of the town. The
river here is very wide and shallow, and navigation in summer is
extremely difficult.
Amara
2
118¾
Abid
1
119¾
L.
Ereibab
4
122¼
R. About 1½ miles inland.
Wad Belal
4½
126¾
L.
Fadassi
4
130¾
L. Large village and Rest house. Good
garden on river bank belonging to Omda of village.
Fadassi Amrab
2
132¾
L.
Tayiba
3
135¾
L.
Hamid El Nil
1½
137¼
R.
Abu Haraz
1½
138¾
Starting place of caravan road to
Gedaref.
Abu Ushur
¾
139½
R. Mouth of River Rahad. Water differs
little from that of Blue Nile; rather more vegetable organic
matter. Jungle begins both banks. This river, which rises in the
N.W. slopes of the Abyssinian mountains, brings down a large volume
of water when in flood. It enters the Nile at an angle of 70°, and
its bed in February was 3 feet higher than the water surface of the
Blue Nile at that time. The Rahad, with the exception of a few
pools, is dry for many months of the year. Its banks at the
junction are steep and high, quite 39 feet over the bed, which has
a width of 71 yards. The flood-marks show that the rise of the
Rahad is from 15 to 19 feet in height. The Blue Nile at this
junction forms an “S” curve, taking a sharp bend to the W., and
again another to the E. Its width, is measured, 595 yards. The
banks of the Rahad River are covered with thick and dense jungle,
as are both banks of the Blue Nile in this reach. Shortly before
Wad Medani is reached, the W. bank becomes open again, but the
forest on the E. bank is continuous.
Wad Medani
5
144½
L. Large and flourishing town, largest in
Sudan after Omdurman. Head quarters of Sennar Province. Post and
telegraph offices. A few European shops and good market. Civil
population about 30,000. Soil limestone with sand and
gravel—healthy; Mosque with high tower. Country S. of Wad Medani
becomes thick jungle especially on E. bank.
From Wad Medani the shortest road to
Sennar leaves the river and goes inland by Sariba, Wad Shenan,
&c., meeting the river again at Danagila.
Goz El Fil
5
149½
On island.
Ereibab
1
150½
Kurdugeili
5
155½
Ganneb
6½
162
L. About 1¼ miles from R. bank is
Shabarga, the nearest point to R. Rahad at H. Sherif Yakub; about 7
miles across.
Bagadi
2
164
L. Large village.
Abd El Karim
6½
170½
R.
H. Sherif Desis Yusef
1¼
171¾
L. Rest house.
Doliba
1¾
173½
L.
El Beriab
4½
178
L. Large village on river bank in open
ground. Supplies plentiful.
Mouth of River Dinder
2
180
Larger and more important river than
Rahad. Breadth at mouth 120 yards (see
page 114, Vol. I).
Hamed
6
186
L. Three miles inland is the large
village of Shukaba.
Abu Sogra
6¾
192¾
L.
Danagila
5½
198¼
L. Distant from Wad Medani by direct road
31½ miles. Rest house.
Santobar
2
200¼
L.
Banat
2
202¼
L.
Barsi El Fadl
2¼
204½
R.
Wad El Dai
3
207½
L.
Wad El Haddad
½
208
L.
Wad El Abbas
6½
214½
R. Rest house.
Meshra El Hagirat
5
219½
L. Rest house.
Habbania
1
220½
L.
Shambata
5
225½
R.
Deim El Mashaikh
5½
231
L.
Sharif
1½
232½
R.
Sennar
2½
235
L. Now in ruins and deserted, old mosque
with high tower still standing. Vide
Vol. I. Rest house at Kabush.
Abu Geili
—
—
Kassab El Amin
9
244
R. Opposite large island.
Shekh Talha
6½
250½
R. Rest house.
Ereidiba
2
252½
R.
Ereidiba
2½
255
L. About 2 miles inland—large
village.
Abdin
4
259
L. Rest house.
Abu Shoka
3
262
Dakhla Shellal
7
269
L.
Rammash
8
277
L.
Mena Yusef
6
283
R.
Wad El Ghazali
2
285
L.
Senga
2
287
L. Headquarters of a District and
Detachment of Regular Troops here. Rest house.
Mena
1
288
R. People: Fungs and Hawazma; the sheikh
Adlan is the descendant of the Fung sultans of Sennar. From here a
direct road goes to Lueisa on the R. Dinder, distance about 16
miles.
El Gazair
6½
294½
R.
Brodras
7½
302
R.
Karkoj
5
307
R. Rest house. A large straggling
village, surrounded by bush and tall grass. It is close to the
river, the banks of which are steep. Inhabitants very poor and of
various tribes:—Kongeri, Ashraf, Moghrabi, Kamatir, Jaalin and
Agalin. Village on high ground, with small khors at intervals
running into the river. Soil, limestone mixed with sand and
alluvium—subsoil 9 to 10 feet from surface. Three small springs of
clear water appear at south end of village, and reach the surface
of the steep bank 9 feet from the top. On the L. bank in Nov. there
is a large stagnant lagoon, which probably increases the
unhealthiness of the site.
One hundred and ten hours by steam from
Khartoum.
Karkoj used to be an important trading
centre in the old days for gum arabic, tamarinds, cattle, cotton,
coffee (from Abyssinia), vegetables, &c. This used to be the
last place where one could lay in stores for further travel.
The river here is at high Nile 470 yards
broad, average depth 23 feet, current 5 miles per hour; at low Nile
the figures are 330 yards, 8 feet, and 1¼ miles respectively.
Surroundings bare. Woods, chiefly acacia,
&c., begin at some distance off.
(Marno took 25 days in a nugger from Khartoum
to this point, in February.)
The Upper Sennar negro race, the Hameg,
now begin to populate both banks; a dirty, indolent race.
From Karkoj upwards both banks are highly
cultivated and fertile, but only on the narrow strip which is
liable to inundation at flood time. Camels become gradually
replaced by donkeys and oxen. Too damp for horses; many mosquitos
and poisonous flies (serút). Much rough cloth woven.
Track on R. bank lies through cultivation
and occasional thick woods.
Seiru
3
310
L. Rest house.
Zumorka
6
316
R.
Lanni
1
317
L.
Abu Tiga
10½
327½
R. On main track from Karkoj to Roseires.
Rest house.
Barankwa
½
328
L. Swarms of birds in autumn. Water
channel 700 yards.
Abu Naama
1½
329½
L. Rather less vegetation; soil contains
much iron peroxide. Reported immune from fever. Rest house.
Rumeila
3
332½
L.
Tangaru
1½
334
L. El Lakandi R.
Regeiba
6
340
L. Rest house.
Bunzoga
8½
348½
R. Boat building yard (?). Two miles
before this the Khor El Malwai comes on L., and a track goes from
there to J. Gule. Rest house.
H. Sherif Ahmed
24
372½
R. Well-known point on river. Cultivation
considerable.
Bados
11
383½
R. Rest house.
El Gereif
7
390½
R. Village up a back-water. Broad
conspicuous belt of dom palms begins, and continues along ridge to
Roseires. Rest house.
R. End of telegraph. Headquarters of a
District and residence of British Inspector; small garrison, post
and telegraph offices. Old Roseires lies 3 miles further north.
Hilly ground, thick dom palms along banks. Mimosa woods to the E.
Plenty of game. Obstructions in the river begin some miles before
here, and this is the limit of navigation for steamers or boats.
About 2 miles south begin the Roseires cataracts. Malarial fever
prevails during October and November. The soil here is composed of
alluvium overlying granite, in which the quartz and mica are
small-grained, evenly distributed throughout, with a minimum of
felspar. Less frequently the blocks are of large grained quartz,
combined with felspar. The granite has been extensively
disintegrated.
Abu Zoghali
8
413
R. Mouth of khor of same name. Rest
house.
El Dakhla
11
424
R. Best camping ground is where hospital
was established after fight with Ahmed Fedil, 25th December, 1898.
The village is over a mile from the river inland. Village Iwan
marked on map is deserted. Latter part of road is thick jungle, and
several deep khors intersect the path. Rest house.
Abu Gemai
12½
436½
L. Abu Gemai, village on W. bank, about
20 people. Rest house. Sheikh el Imam Ramadan. Open road the
greater part of the way, but there are several deep khors bounded
by thick jungle. In 11th mile you come to watering place,
Ardeiba.
Ardeiba
11
447½
R. Watering place.
Abu Sheneina
3½
451
L. Abu Sheneina, a village on W. bank,
about 200 people; Sheikh Abd el Wahid Abu Shenein. Rest house.
Famaka
9
460
R. The latter part of road is very rough
indeed, going over shoulder of J. Fazogli; very steep and rocky
about 2 to 3 miles.
[14]This report is on the old route. The new
route at times follows the old one and at times the telegraph line,
but the watering places are the same on both routes.
[15]On the 28th March, 1902, there were only a
few inches of water in the well, and it took an hour to water 13
camels, using 2 girbas.—(Bonham-Carter).
[17]Some of the names in this report will
probably be unknown to many guides.
[18]Mafasa has rapidly developed, and now (1904)
is about to be made the Head-Quarters of a District.
[19]Rest houses on left bank between Regeiba and
Roseires are at M. Gurra, Moya Ahmar, Abkok, and El Disa; on right
bank, between El Gereif and Roseires, at Magangani.
CHAPTER V. — 31.—KHARTOUM to WAD MEDANI, SENNAR, SENGA, and KARKOJ, up Left Bank of BLUE NILE. — 32.—KHARTOUM to GOZ ABU GUMA and JEBELEIN, up Right Bank of WHITE NILE. — 33.—KHARTOUM to GULE, viâ MANAGIL and SEGADI. — 34.—MANAGIL to SENNAR. — 35.—KEILI to SENGA, viâ GULE. — 36.—SENGA to J. JEROK, viâ KHOR OFAT and KEILI. — 37.—ROSEIRES to KEILI, viâ GULE. — 38.—FAZOGLI to GEZAN. — 39.—GEZAN to KURMUK, viâ SUDE and M’NZILA. — 40.—GULE to RENK. — 41.—JEBELEIN to RENK (R.B.). — 42.—RENK to KAKA OLD WOOD STATION (HELLET EL NYAM NYAM), R. B. — 43.—RENK to opposite KODOK (DUNJOL) (R. B.). — 44.—JEBEL AHMED AGHA to AWITONG and KASH-KASH. — 45.—ITINERARY UP KHOR ADAR. — 46.—J. JEROK, viâ J. ERI, KILWEGA, TO WAD DELUKA ( about 52 miles S.E. of Melut ). — 47.—URYONG on the SOBAT to the WHITE NILE opposite KODOK.
(CENTRAL SUDAN.)
Compiled from Reports by Major de
Rougemont and Captain H. F. S. Amery.
Corrected up to 1904.
Between Khartoum and Wad Medani there are rest houses at the
following places: Sabil, Masid, Kamlin, Hassa Hisa and Mesellemia;
these places are on an average about 18 miles apart. The fee per
night payable to the Sheikh in charge is 5 P.T., in return for
which an angarib, zeer and water are provided. Eggs, milk, fowls,
&c., are generally procurable, but these are of course not
included in the 5 P.T.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khartoum (Palace)
—
—
The road passes over
an open plain after leaving the old line of fortifications (gate 1
mile from palace), passing Buri District, comprising 3 villages, to
the left; then through Gereif district; 7 villages, population
about 1,000; opposite third village the road is ½ mile from river;
road runs over flat open plain; cultivation—dura, cotton, dukhn,
and vegetables in small quantities round each village. A track also
leads straight to the Sabil Rest house, by following which about 1
mile is saved.
Um Dom Island
—
—
Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat
7½
7½
Not inhabited.
Road passes in straight line from
Khartoum to Meshra El Hagar or Hageirat; at this point it meets the
river; excellent watering place only, no village. The village of Um
Dom (R.) is exactly opposite Meshra El Hagar.
Soba
4
11½
A small village of tukls on the R. bank.
Fourteen miles from Khartoum there is good watering place, no
grazing.
El Sabil
6
17½
Rest house. No village.
El Bageir
1½
19
On river bank, 1½ miles from road,
population 200. Through Sabil Kasm El Sid District; signs of ruined
village on side of road, from which Eilafun can be seen, bearing
55°.
Goz Shereig
—
—
On R. bank.
Gedid
7
26
Population 1,000; cultivation round
villages (3). Track passes over barren treeless plain to
Masudia
5½
31½
Village on River, population 500;
cultivation between village and river.
Nuba
2¼
33¾
A large village, mud houses, population
1,000; good cultivation. Encamped ½ mile south of Nuba.
El Masid
5
38¾
Rest house. Road still through open
plain. No cultivation between Nuba and Masid, nor at latter.
Inhabitants cultivate opposite bank. Large village with
mosque.
Alti
1
39¾
A straggling village ¾ mile long,
population 1,500; bank of river cultivated.
Um Magad
3
42¾
Village ½ mile long, population 300.
El Tikeina
1¾
44½
Population 200. Encamped in open plain ½
mile south of village; good watering place; no grazing.
Bishagra El Gharbi
2
46½
Large village, 3 mosques. Bishagra El
Sharki on opposite bank.
Fadl El Fogur
1
47½
A small village on river bank, population
150.
El Takela
2¼
49¾
Straggling village, population 800, ½
mile from road on bank of river. Traces of rain cultivation.
Another village on right of road, 1 mile further south, also called
El Takela.
Wad El Turabi
2¾
52½
A large village, with large mosque, ½
mile from river. There is a small village on river bank under trees
(mimosa). Rain-cultivated dura commences on right of road. Plenty
of cultivation on river bank.
Kasembar
2½
55
A small village of Kamlin district, ¼
mile from road, population 200. The road now enters the Kamlin
district, which stretches as far as Abu El Ashr.
El Heleila
1
56
A small village of Kamlin district 1¼
mile left of road, population 200.
Kalkol
—
—
Same as El Heleila. A thick grove of Dom
palms close to village.
Kamlin
2½
58½
A large village, population 1,500, with
thin grove of date palms on north side with rest house. Market
place, dura obtainable. There are government farms and old ruined
indigo factory. A good camping ground on south side of village. The
road to Kamlin is quite suitable for wheel traffic. The inhabitants
of Kamlin seem prosperous. The Gezira seems well supplied with
grass. The road now passes through more cultivation;
rain-cultivation dura on both sides of road. Head Quarters of Blue
Nile Province (P.T.O.).
Um Degersi
6½
65
Two small villages, population 700, 1
mile east of road; nearly all straw tukls. Near here another small
village on bank Abd El Magdi, population 200; river cultivation.
One mile south on right bank of river is the large village of
Helalia.
Abu El Ashr
3
68½
A large village on river bank. Here
commences Halawin district (includes Abu El Ashr), population 600;
mud houses. Road passes through open woody country.
El Talbab
3¼
71¾
Two miles from river, population 1,000.
Mud houses. The road continues through the Halawin district,
comprising some 64 villages inland. Cultivation by rain.
Um Haboba
3¼
75
Commonly called by the natives the
Geneinat El Halawin; excellent camping ground, garden, excellent
grazing, date palms, lemon trees in garden. The road now passes
through somewhat thick mimosa jungle to plain covered with thorn
scrub.
Wad Abu Ferugha (Furur?)
3
78
Rest house. A large village, ¼ mile from
road on left, population 800. A few dom palms and grazing
(indifferent) along bank. Opposite bank well wooded, inhabitants
depend on rain cultivation.
Debeba
2
80
A long straggling village, 1 mosque, a
few sunt trees. An island called Debeba in front of village.
Bearing from north end of village to Rufaa 110°, about 3 miles off
on right bank.
Wad El Ramil
½
80½
A small village east of road. Bearing to
Rufaa 90°. Road passes through open plain.
Hassa Hisa or
Hassai
2
82½
Two large sunt trees, one at north end,
one at south end. Fair size village at the apex of the bend of the
river, mostly tukls. One and a quarter miles further on are two
very large acacia trees; road open. The river here makes a sharp
south bend, Rufaa being about 3 miles north-east from here on R.B.
There is a telegraph office at Rufaa.
In the bend opposite Rufaa are several
villages, chief being El Amara, which is the Head Quarters of the
Mamur of Mesellemia District.
Wad El Fadui
5
87½
Road leaves El Amara to the left and
strikes the river again near Wad El Fadui.
El Akura
4
911
Conspicuous palms near river’s edge. Rain
cultivation all along road and inland.
Grigrib
3
94½
Small Halawin village. Old Mesellemia now
mostly in ruins, lies about 4 miles south-west inland from
here.
Fadasi
1¾
96¼
Large village. Inhabitants chiefly
Rekabia Halimab. Omda is Sheikh El Nazir Yusef. Rest house. From
here track passes through dura cultivation whole way to Wad
Medani.
Head Quarters of Sennar Province and 1
battalion of infantry. Second largest town in the Sudan.
Habiballa
3
111
Village on Blue Nile on left of road.
Much cultivation hereabouts.
Um Bellal
3
114
Village on right of road. Much jungle
along river bank.
Bagadi
9
123
Several villages are
passed and a good deal of cultivation to Bagadi, a large village
with good watering place. From here the telegraph runs to Meshra El
Beriab (10 miles), and thence to Meshra El Shukaba (6½ miles);
however, the most direct road cuts off the bend and strikes the
river at Meshra Shukaba. Several villages in this neighbourhood and
bush both inland and along river bank. A road from Segadi joins in
here.
Meshra El Shukaba
14
137
El Denegila
4
141
Good watering place; several villages.
Cultivation.
Meshra El Dai
9¾
150¾
Several villages and
much cultivation is passed on the river bank about half way to
Meshra El Hegerat. Much bush about here, but main road is
good.
Meshra El Hegerat
7
157¾
Sennar
9
166¾
In ruins, but being re-built. Head
Quarters of District and garrisoned by a detachment from Wad
Medani.
2½
169¼
River bends eastwards
and road leaves it about 2 miles to the east and passes through
thick bush to Meshra Eridiba, 1¾ miles before reaching which Sheikh
Talha is passed on the right bank. Good camping ground and
grazing.
Meshra Eridiba
11
180¼
Leaving Meshra Eridiba the country is
more open, and cultivated with dura and semsem.
Abdin is a moderate-sized village on
river bank 1½ miles from main road. Good watering place. No grazing
near camp, but it is obtainable some 2 miles north.
Abu Shoka is passed 2 miles to the
east.
Enediba
13
193¼
On river bank. From
here there is a road following the river which makes a big bend to
the east to Senga. The direct road is viâ Enediba, and
passes through much cultivation and crosses many tracks to Senga,
an important village on the river bank. This is now the Head
Quarters of the old Karkoj District. It is garrisoned by a
detachment from Wad Medani. Many Kenana and Baggara Arabs live
here, but the population is much mixed. From Senga roads lead to
Lueisa and Abu Kashim on the Dinder.
Senga or Seneij
11¾
205
There is a P.T.O. here.
A road runs east from here viâ
Teigo (wells 16 miles) to J. Dali, and another to J. Moya. From J.
Dali there are tracks to the White Nile at Jebelein and Goz Abu
Guma.
Senga Um Benein
6½
211½
From here the track runs due south to
Senga Um Benein on river bank. Kenana village.
Meshra Dar Agil
7½
219
Thence to Meshra Dar
Agil, whence by river bank to Karkoj, a town of not much importance
now owing to the transfer of Government offices, &c., to
Senga.
Karkoj
5
224
Compiled from Reports by Captains
T. Conolly and W. A. Boulnois (1899).
N.B.—The river can be approached practically
anywhere as far as Shawal.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Leaving the most westerly group of palms
at Khartoum, the road runs due south for a mile, leaving the
village of Goz on the left, and that of Rumeila on the right.
Cotton soil. River visible.
Assara
—
—
In next 7 miles road
runs (185 Mag.), passing a string of villages on the right (W.)
about 1 mile away. The name of all these seems to be Assara, till
one gets to the village of Kalakla, about 6 miles from Khartoum,
situated in a large clump of trees. Road runs on open desert
sand—very good going; river invisible, about 2 miles off.
Kalakla
5
6
Sheikh Um Meriom
3
9
At 9 miles from Khartoum road passes a
village with a high tomb in it, called Sheikh Wad Um Meriom. This
lies on the river about 1½ miles from the main road.
El Kalakeil
1
10
At 10 miles road passes El Kalakeil on
the E. side of it. There are some signs in this last mile of the
country having been cultivated. From here the river is about 3
miles off, invisible on account of the bank of sand which forms the
desert edge, and some trees on it.
After this the road enters some low sand
hills, with large clumps of big trees on the river side about ½
mile off.
3
13
Three miles off this brings one into the
first open scrub, which gets closer as it approaches the river—but
is not thick, except in a few places on the river bank.
Geziret Haraz
4
17
At 17 miles the head
of two islands at high Nile (now no longer islands), called Geziret
Haraz and Geziret Um Arda. These islands are, I believe, some 5
miles apart at high Nile, but are now practically one, owing to big
alluvial flat from which they rise, being dry at this time of the
year (10.3.99).
Geziret Um Arda
—
—
At this point, and for the next 3 miles
on the road, there are a good number of shallow, 15 to 20 feet,
wells, giving good water, slightly bitter. I only saw 3, but 7 were
reported by natives. There are a good number of camels to be seen
in this piece of country.
J. Auli
8
25
Eight miles further takes one to J. Auli,
a steep rock about 100 feet high, with a small under-feature on the
N.W., about 50 feet. There is a good meshra, or watering place.
Under this mountain there is a good camping ground for a
brigade.
Gar El Nabi
3
28
Passing E. of J. Auli, after 3 miles Gar
El Nabi is reached, which lies close to it. These 3 miles are
through open bush, with river visible about ½ to 1 mile off.
4
32
For the next 4 miles the bush gets
thicker and the road is crossed by small khors, and in places by
cultivation zeribas. River invisible.
Next 6 miles the bush gets more open
again, and a line of small sand hills is seen along the river edge
hiding it. Horses can be watered anywhere in this 6 miles. In the
last half of this distance the trees cease on the east side of the
road and 2 large khors cross it.
Opposite J. Barima or Breima
6
38
At 38 miles J. Barima is opposite on the
other bank of the river. For about 2 miles before reaching this
point, and for 2½ miles after it, the road runs through sand hills,
the river being visible about ½ mile off.
At this point (2½ miles south of J.
Barima) the river is quite close to the road, which changes its
direction to 200° magnetic.
7
45
The road rises slightly in the next mile
and 3½ miles further on goes through bush which, though open on the
E. side, is fairly thick on the W., making the river
invisible.
Wad Belal
3
48
After 3 miles through open bush and sand
hills, Wad Belal, a wood station for steamers and a good watering
place is reached.
2
50
For the first 2 miles from Wad Belal the
road runs through scattered trees which become fairly close bush on
the river side for another 2 miles.
El Geteina
4½
54½
The road enters a large plain of cotton
soil, with three tracks across it to Arab dwellings, towards the
centre of the Gezira about 4 miles in, and reaches the large
village of El Geteina. On the river side there is a large alluvial
flat about 2 miles across, and 3 to 4 miles long, which runs north
of El Geteina towards Wad Belal. There is a curious round sand hill
in the middle of this flat which must be an island at high
Nile.
El Geteina consists of two villages about
1 mile apart, the larger of the two being to the north. It is
fairly clean and has a very good market. There was a certain amount
of cultivation going on with Shadufs (not an amount proportionate
to the size of the village), and a large tract of country is
obviously sown with dura during the rains. This was the most
prosperous village I saw on the Gezira (March, 1899). It is now
Head Quarters of Geteina District.
One mile over cotton soil beyond the
village of El Geteina, a small one of the same name is
reached.
Immediately on leaving this, the road
runs into sand dunes with bush for 1 mile; river close (200
yards).
After that, 6½ miles of very good going
through scattered trees. The road here is crossed by a large number
of Arab tracks to meshras; and many herds of sheep and goats were
seen. River invisible from road.
The next 3 miles runs through fairly
thick bush with open spaces. This bush gets thinner as it recedes
from the river. During the next 2½ miles the road passes to west of
a fine strip of open cotton soil about 2½ miles wide, separated
from the river by a thick strip of bushes and a large alluvial
plain, so that now (12.3.99) it is about 2 to 3 miles from the
river. Much dura seems to have been grown here, but only a small
portion of this large plain was under cultivation last year.
Garrasa
12
66½
At the end of this
plain to the S.E. there are a line of sand hills running N.E. to
S.W., and getting gradually smaller towards the S.W. These run
alongside the road, beyond the open plain, and end in some small
dunes near the village of Garrasa. Garrasa is a small
village—without a market—the people of which seem poor. There is a
good meshra here. Leaving Garrasa the road runs through about 3
miles of dura land, a large part of which has been recently
cultivated. River ¼ to ½ mile away.
3
69½
Wad Shalai
2½
72
After 2½ miles more, alongside sand hills
near the river, the road reaches the small village of Wad
Shalai—the inhabitants of which were all away on the river bank
cultivating.
Wad El Saki
7
79
Seven miles further, Wad El Saki, a large
village on the top of some sand hills, is reached.
The population was about 400 to 500
(March, 1899). The road runs the first half of this distance
through sand dunes on both sides, with the river close and visible.
The last half leaves the river gradually, and passing through some
dura ground, is about 1½ miles from it at Wad El Saki.
Sayef
3
82
From here 3 miles take one to a few
houses about 2 miles from the river on some sand hills called
Sayef, being one of three villages of that name.
4
86
After 4 miles over
cotton soil the road crosses a sand-hill ridge running at right
angles to the river, and about 1 mile from it, and descends into
the plain close to the river at a point where another village, also
called Sayef, is seen about 2 miles inland. At this point there is
a good meshra, and a ferry to the other bank.
1
87
6
93
After several miles of low scrub on the
river side, and cotton soil which has all been cultivated, on the
east Debasi Meshra is reached.
Debasi
2
95
Here the Khalifa had a big grain depôt,
the ruins of which can still be seen. There is a regular ferry from
here to the other bank. Two miles from this meshra is the village
of Debasi; population about 400. The road for this distance is
through sand hills, ½ mile from the river.
The village is on the north bank of deep
khor. No water in khor (13.3.99 or 1.10.99), but might entail 2 or
3 miles circuit at high Nile. From Debasi to Shabasha (3½ miles)
road close to bank. Thence to 14th mile 1 to 1½ miles distant.
Stony hills from 6th to 12th mile east of
road. Sandy bank to river, good watering; slight scrub close to
river to 6th mile. Thence scrub and sunt trees along road (thick
near river), cotton soil, muddy bank. Road closes to river at
Ghobeisha.
Ghobeisha
13
108
Ghobeisha meshra and village, good place
for camp and watering. Road crosses open plain with high grass
cotton soil, probably under water at high Nile.
Ghayafa
4½
112½
Ghayafa meshra, good camping ground and
watering place; sand hill near meshra. Scrub fairly thick, cotton
soil.
Denegila
8½
121
Denegila village, W.
of road, opposite island of same name; 1½ miles further, village
Abu Karun, N. of road, where it crosses track to Um Seneita, thence
to Um Gar village, W. of road, opposite island same name. Dura
crops in this district; thick bush close to river to Meshra El
Hella. Road runs close to river to Kawa.
Um Gar
4
125
Meshra El Hella
3
128
Kawa
4
132
Kawa, large village with suk, Head
Quarters of District, Post and Telegraph station. Road runs ½ mile
to 1 mile from river through dura cultivation, and then over grassy
plain past village Abu Hindi.
Meshra Shaggara
6
138
Meshra and village close to river.
Hassan Alob
7
145
Thence past Kanuz
village, with island opposite, the road runs ¼ mile to ½ mile from
river to Hassan Alob, on the banks of the river with an island
called Dabus opposite. Still through bush country to Nur
El Daim (large
village and police station). Road leaves river ½ mile to 1 mile
distant up to Sheikh’s tomb (Sheikh Nur El Taib), which is on the
river bank. Three large trees, a ruined mud and brick building, and
some flags mark it.
Nur Ed Daim
3
148
Sheikh’s tomb
3
151
Shawal
2
153
Road bends due S. to Shawal. Large
village. Country: open bush, slightly undulating; good sandy
watering places at river. J. Tueima visible S.E. Aba Island begins
2 miles S.
Malaha
3
156
Meshra Malaha and
village Meleliha; 3 miles further on salt works. Road enters scrub;
bush country to Marabia, good camping ground on high ground, where
there are the ruins of an old fort and brick buildings. Road leaves
river, crosses a grassy plain—probably under water at full
Nile—passed village Torba, E. of road, and turns S.W. to Goz Abu
Guma, Head Quarters of District, telegraph and post office.
Marabia
8
164
Goz Abu Guma or Zeinuba
16½
180½
From Goz Abu Guma road runs ½ mile to 1
mile from river. Line of villages (see sketch) on high
ground about 4½ miles from river. Chiefly cattle grazing.
El Khema
6
186½
Road joins river at
El Khema. Police post to Mokada Abu Zeit; good camping ground and
small village. There is a ford here at low Nile. Two miles further
on Musran Island begins and continues to 3 miles of Jebelein.
Mokada Abu Zeit
4½
195½
Meshra Hedib
4½
200
Meshra Hedib to Musran Island. The road
keeps close to the river bank. The E. channel seemed very much
blocked with sudd, only a narrow passage 50 yards wide being
visible at times.
Meshra Zuleit
17½
217½
There is a meshra to
Musran Island, 7 miles as the road turns from Jebelein called
Zuleit. Hence the road winds through thick scrub, with patches of
open country right up to the ford at Jebelein.
Jebelein
8½
225
Rocky hills commanding the river about
300 feet high.
Grassy plain between north and south
ridges.
Village on E. of southern ridge.
By Captain H. H. S. Morant,
February, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khartoum
—
—
Leaving Khartoum by
the track passing 200 yards west of the westernmost rifle butts,
the country for the first 7 miles is quite open, and very slightly
undulating. The soil is poor and sandy, and no attempt at
cultivation is visible. At 8 miles the track passes through low
scattered arak bush, which continues to Id El Agaliin, where there
is one well 120 feet deep with a good supply of water. Ahmed El
Faki is the Omda of El Agaliin. Very fair grazing for camels on
arak bush. Leaving the Id the country soon becomes open and bare,
the soil richer, and traces of cultivation appear. Numerous cross
tracks to the river are met with.
Id El Agaliin
17½
17½
Id Wad El Bella
4
21½
One well 120 feet deep; water said to be
plentiful.
Sherafat
9
30½
A tukl village (all
villages met hereafter are built of tukls) is passed 1¼ miles on W.
of track. It has a well. A mile further on arak and laot bush
commence and continue to Id El Orus, where there is one well 120
feet deep; water plentiful, but slightly salt. About a mile before
reaching the Id a large village named Debeisa is passed about 1
mile to the east. The people here are a mixture of Jaalin, Awamer,
&c. Very fair grazing for camels on arak; there is little or no
grass here or anywhere else this year.
Id El Orus
5½
36
7½
43½
On leaving the Id the same sort of country
continues, cultivation and scattered arak bush, the track still
keeping the same S.S.W. direction. At 7½ miles the road to El Ribi
branches off half left, and 2½ miles further on Id El Kereil is
passed, ½ mile off on the right, the village being about the same
distance further W. of the well. The country now becomes perfectly
bare (at this season), it being entirely under cultivation, if not
this year at any rate in a good season, and the bush ceases
altogether. Villages begin to get numerous, and natives are more
frequently met, as from here on to Managil, but few leave their
villages for the river. This district is known as Gutefab, and the
chief village is El Areik (Awamer) which is on the road, the Id
being a mile to the east.
Id El Kereil
2½
46
2
48
Gutefab El Areik
4
52
3
55
About 3 miles on arak
grows and affords the only grazing for camels, but it only extends
for about ½ mile along the road; the country then become scattered
with laot bush and naal grass.
2
57
Goz El Naga
2
59
Goz El Naga is passed about a mile on the
right. Not much cultivation visible about here.
Dagala
3
62
A small village with no well.
1½
63½
Road branches: right
to Sarhan, left to Wad Abu Kassawi, where lives the sheikh of the
same name; his ancestors are buried close by, and have always been
of a so-called religious nature and used to be at any rate, if not
now, head of a dervish-like Tarika. Village consists of about 100
tukls. Low laot bush around here. Leaving the village on bearing
216° after 1¾ miles road from Dagala to Sarhan is met and followed;
the well of Sarhan being passed close by on the left and the
village about 1 mile on the right. Country here quite flat, and
covered with naal grass where not cultivated. El Ogda a large
Mugharba village with one well of the usual depth, 120 feet. Water
plentiful, 50 camels watered without inconvenience to inhabitants.
Leaving the Id, country continues the same flat naal-covered plain
with occasional laot bushes until nearing Wad El Zein (Omda Ahmed
Wad El Zein), where remains of cultivation increase. There is one
well 120 feet deep. Natives, Mugharba. No grazing here for camels
as elsewhere in this neighbourhood. Cultivation occurs at
intervals, becoming more general after passing Sheteita a small
Mugharba village. Kreimet is a large Arakin village, Omda Ahmed
Yusef. Its two wells are 4 miles further on. Another large Arakin
village on left of road with a well, as also have two other
villages close on right of road.
Wad Abu Kassawi
3
66½
1¾
68¼
Sarhan
3
71¼
El Ogda
5¾
77
Wad El Zein
11¾
88¾
Sheteita
4
92¾
Kreimet
5½
98¼
Wells
4
102¼
El Tageia
1¼
103½
Managil
3½
107
The plural of El
Mangala, the name given to the village in which the suk is
situated. There are some half dozen to a dozen villages close
together. There are three wells and water never fails,
notwithstanding they are 150 feet deep. Here there are inspector’s
houses, a Mamur, Zaptia, &c. There is a large mixed population,
some of whom were seen playing a game called “tiwa” very like
rounders. The plain of Managil is absolutely flat, without a single
bush in sight, the whole in favourable seasons being given up to
cultivation. Market days are Sunday and Wednesday. Leaving Managil
by the route taken Otgi (Hameg), Dar Nail (Hameg), Wad El Shagl
(Faradiin) are passed a mile or more on the right hand, whilst
Takala and Um Dugl are passed on the left, before reaching Um Talha
a Faradiin village. All these villages have wells, as have all
villages of any pretensions about here.
Um Talha
9½
116½
Sheleikha
2½
119
A Shaigia village
passed on left, and Wad Doka on the right, before reaching El Amara
(Hameg), and ¾ mile further on Wad Gangar (Shaigia), Rabaha is 1¾
miles further on, and a ¼ mile before reaching it a small suk is
passed. From here on the people are Kawahla.
El Amara
3½
122½
Wad Gangari
¾
123¼
Rabaha
1¾
125
Between Managil and Rabaha the track
appears to follow a low ridge overlooking an extensive and fertile
plain to the W. growing a large amount of cotton and dura. J.
Maturi is plainly visible.
Khalet
5½
130½
After leaving Rabaha track passes through
low laot bush which continues as far as Khalet. Two villages,
Hellet El Hag and Wad Abdel Rof, are passed about a mile on the
right and left of road en route, as also is Sheikh Abdel
Rof’s tomb. The well at Khalet is the last on the road to Segadi, there are several
other Kawahla villages with cultivation and wells close by. Imam
Ali is the head Kawahla Sheikh. From Khalet it is possible under
favourable conditions to see J. Segadi. Soon after leaving Khalet
the first kittr is met, it now becomes the prevailing bush.
Wad Mukashfi
4½
135
Called after the son
of the Dervish Emir who captured Sennar, who (son) now lives here
and is said to have only lately come out of prison for dervish
practices. This is the last village in the Managil District of Blue
Nile Province. The Sennar Province is now entered. After passing
the Mukashfi cultivation, the road leads across an uninhabited
waterless plain until Segadi is reached. This plain, on which
numerous camels are grazed during the rains, is, as a rule, open
and covered with naal and siha grass intersected at intervals by
belts of kittr, the thickest and widest is in the last 4 miles
before reaching the hamlet on the north of J. Segadi. Another
outlying hamlet is Ereiga, which was passed but not seen, about 4
miles from the jebel which strongly resembles J. Kassala on a small
scale. It consists of two main granite masses lying north-east and
south-west, the wells being between them. There is also one on the
western side of main jebel. The village, which must contain some
1,500 inhabitants, is close to the western face of the larger
jebel. The population is very mixed, and many only live here during
the dry season. Torin Ahmed (Rufaa) is Sheikh of this heterogeneous
crowd. There are said to be caves in the jebels here, which
doubtless occasionally harbour bad characters from the Gezira and
elsewhere.
J. Sejadi
24
159
1
160
Moya
13½
173½
Following the telegraph line which runs
E.S.E., Moya is reached in about 13½ miles. Dense kittr is passed
through en route, but the road is cleared for the wire.
Approaching Moya much cultivation is passed in clearings in the
bush. The name Moya as applied to this village is an euphemism as
water is particularly scarce, and is obtained from several 15 to 20
feet wells under the jebel 1 mile south of the village. In the hot
weather the inhabitants (probably 2,000) disperse or else carry
their water from Segadi. The Omda’s name is El Imam Hadibai, and
the majority of the population are Amarna, a few Hameg and Gowama.
There are caves called “maiuba” in the jebel close to the village,
said to be used for “fogara.” From the summit of the jebel, J. Dali
is plainly visible on a favourable day, bearing 177½° magnetic.
There is little shade here.
Road to Teigo
3
176½
After hugging the eastern end of J. Moya,
the road to Gule turns nearly due south, the road to Teigo
branching off S.S.E., and after traversing a bad belt of kittr bush
about ½ mile in width, the road crosses a plain at first studded
with kurmet, but later without bush at all.
4
180½
Road here bifurcates, the left hand track
leading to the river (Blue Nile).
5
185½
The road from Seneij or Senga to Goz Abu
Guma viâ J. Dud crosses the track.
J. Sereig
10
195½
A small granite hill about 200 feet high,
the road passes it 100 yards on the right hand.
6
201½
Scattered bush now
commences and continues with occasional interruptions until
reaching the bad kittr about 1 mile wide surrounding Jebel Dali, a
stony hill about 500 feet high. Water is found about half way up,
immediately below its highest point. After a good rainy season it
lasts till March or April, but there was practically none on
February 4th, 1902.
J. Dali
19½
221
J. Abu Garud
22
243
The road from Senga
viâ Teigo on Blue Nile to Musran and Goz Abu Guma passes
by this watering place. Remains of former habitations of Abu Rof
Arabs are visible. Leaving the jebel in a southerly direction after
traversing a thick belt of kittr, ½ mile wide, J. Teigo is visible
on the left and J. Abu Garud and other hills on the right. Abu
Garud is the highest hill seen south of Khartoum. At first the
country is open, then forest (chiefly soffar) begins and continues
till after passing J. Bozi a long, low hill immediately under the
west end of which the road passes, and then becomes open until
reaching J. Mazmum. Here rain and spring water is found in natural tanks in
perhaps half a dozen places. The amount of water of course varying
with the rains. There was sufficient in a tank at the foot of the
southern end of the western face of the jebel to water 40 camels
and 40 men for two days. This exhausted this supply. A spring at
the foot of the southern end of the western face, being on the
road, is the one generally used, and the supply is consequently
low. There is a tank about 20 yards by 10 yards on a detached hill,
about ¾ mile N.W. of main jebel. Water was found of an average
depth of 2 feet, both sweet and clear. This being off the road had
not been much used. There is said to be always water at Mazmum. No
natives[21] live here now, though formerly it was head
quarters of the Abu Rof Arabs, the remains of whose houses are
still visible. Good shade (200 men), and very fair grazing for
camels near western water tank. From here, Gireiwa and other hills
to the S. and S.E., as well as Bunzuga and Abu Garud are easily
visible.
J. Bozi
9
252
J. Mazmum
14
266
Water Tank
1½
267½
4
271½
The track to Gule
still leads south, the country being open for first 4 miles, when
narrow belt of bush is traversed. Five miles further on thick
soffar bush commences which develops into forest, which extends E.
and W. continuously for many miles south of Gule. The principal
trees are hashab (very numerous about 20th mile, but decrease as
Gireiwa is approached), talh, nabag, soffar, kadad, and the
poisonous (to camels) hakabit. Wide clearings along the path
indicate that in the old days this road was much used, but now they
are mostly overgrown, and travelling by night is an unpleasant, if
not a dangerous proceeding.
5
276½
J. Gireiwa
21½
298
Two long low hills running nearly E. and
W., and where the road passes between them there is a small supply
of water (spring), 20 yards on right side of road.
El Burun
7
305
J. Gule is first
visible from here, and is a granite mass about 1,300 (?) feet high
and 1¾ miles long, lying nearly E. and W. El Burun a small village
at the foot of northern face of the jebel is first approached, the
road then turns to the west, passing an encampment of Dar Agil
Arabs, and after rounding the western end of Jebel Gule the village
of Gule is reached close at the foot of western and of southern
face. There is a plentiful supply of water, which, however, is
largely impregnated with lime and consequently is injurious to
health. Idris Wad Regab is Sheikh of Dar Fung and lives here. He is
a direct descendant of the kings of the Fung, whose former
territory extended to the south beyond the present limits of the
Sudan-Abyssinian frontier. The total inhabitants of Gule and its
two outlying hamlets is about 1,000. The natives are Hameg, and
Selim and Dar Agil Baggaras roam about in the neighbourhood. Roads
lead from here to Roseires (5 days), Surkum (5 days), Karkoj, and
Renk (2 days). There is much fever here during and after the rainy
season. There is good shade about 1 mile east of the village.
Little in the way of supplies, not even grain, is obtainable
here.
Gule
3
308
By Captain N. M. Smyth,
V.C., 1899.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Managil
—
—
Headquarters of District (vide
preceding report).
Abud (Abudia Tribe)
9½
9½
Most fertile land in the Gezira
hereabouts. Track runs E. through grass plain. Bush visible 1 mile
to S. Two wells 150 feet deep. Track N.E. to Mesellemia, E. to Wad
Medani, and S.E. to Sennar.
Um Deghina (Kawahla)
1
10½
Pond, 60 yards diameter, dry after
December. Cultivation commences.
2
12½
Mimosa scrub W. of track.
3
15½
Village of same name ½ mile S.
2
17½
A dry pond. Mimosa 10 feet high, and high
grass on both sides of the road. The Hassanat have a camp in the
winter about 2 miles W. of track, and water at Abud and
Ataleih.
Ataleih
4
21½
Two wells. A large tree ½ mile N.W.
serves as landmark. No good shade obtainable. S. of this, thorny
scrub has sprung up on fallow land. A track leading S.W. to Bagadi,
Kenana, Digoisab and Hellet El Baragna. Track leads on about
S.E.
Keteir
6
27½
Small village marked by a large tree. One
well about 150 feet deep, runs dry directly after watering about
200 people, 300 sheep and 20 donkeys.
Karatib (Jaalin and Kenana)
4
31½
Large village, good well, excellent black
cotton soil extending for 3 miles in all directions. Only patches
have been cultivated for dura.
2
33½
Thick bush and high grass. View limited
to 300 yards.
Basabir (Jaalin)
1
34½
New well being sunk. Cotton and dura
crops.
Fahal (Kenana)
1
35½
About 50 huts to W. Copious supply of
water from well. A small khor S.E. of it holds water till December.
Wood extends to S.
Fahal Suk
1
36½
Consists of rows of straw shanties
situated in a wood. It is chiefly used by Kenana.
El Giseirab
2
38½
One good well in a clearing in wood.
Easily defended; good bivouac ground.
Tulbakh
4
42½
Last mile of approach
is open and partly cultivated. Long straggling village. Dry pond
and cemetery N. of it. To S.W. the market, and a well and pond
which dried up about 10th February. Mohammed El Nur of Kenana is
Sheikh of village. Several hundred sheep, many donkeys, one horse,
fowls and pigeons, but no camels. The best marked track leads S.
from the Suk, and, bending S.E., passes zeribaed dura fields to El
Doma, where there is a village and a well. It continues, through
shady acacia and fields to Meshra El Dai, whence the Blue Nile can
be reached.
El Doma
8
50½
Meshra El Dai
4
54½
Meshra El Bejirat
2
56½
Good halting place on bank.
Sennar
9
65½
Banks wooded.
Compiled from a Report furnished
by Lieut.-Col. Gorringe, March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Keili, S.W.
—
—
Limited water supply from water holes,
but more could be had by digging down to 8 feet—cotton soil in
places and stony in others—single file along track.
Khor Farsia
11
11
Insufficient water at Kukulik, had to go
on to Khor Farsia, fair supply of water by digging 4 feet. After
which, no water first 3 miles. Cotton soil, single file. After J.
Doya, good hard going cotton soil last 2 miles.
Khor Togu
33½
44½
Ample water 18 feet below surface in Khor
Togu, first 4 miles cotton soil. Rest house. After reaching J.
Dunkur good hard going for 3 miles, then bad cotton soil, for 1 mile each
side J. Bur-Burka good going, then bad again over cotton soil,
insufficient water at first village 4 miles from spot camped at, a
little water half way between village and camp in Khor Togu.
Seraf Dal
10½
55
Ample water running and in pools, single
file, stony, fair going only, bad in places. Rest house at
Soda.
Khor Tamrin
7
62
Fair supply of water in pools probably
ample by digging, a good deal up and down hill, hard going but
stone, single file.
J. Kukur
5
67
Good supply of water reported in Seraf
Sahaba, hard going, stony, single file. Rest house.
J. Buk (N.W. end)
8½
75½
Rest house. Fair supply of water in water
holes, cotton soil, single file, bad going. From here on no water,
very bad going, hard cotton soil badly cracked, single file, though
road has been widened.
J. Gule
30½
106
Residence of Sheikh Idris Wad Ragab.
Limited supply of water in water holes, good supply from Government
wells, very bad going except in few places, soil badly cracked,
single file, though road has been widened.
J. Jemam or Ali
9
115
Small supply of water here.
J. Roro (N.E. side)
5½
120½
Plenty of water in water holes 4 feet
deep, going same as before. Continuing, no water but better going,
though mostly cotton soil, single file.
J. Werka
19
139½
Small amount of water in holes.
J. Gerebin
15½
155
Very limited supply of water in water
holes in two places at N. side of hill, just sufficient water in
each to water about 100 horses once. There is however a large
tank of beautiful water on the top of the hill. This does not
last throughout the dry weather. Going same as before. From here to
the river there is no water, going for the first 7 miles same as
before, after which it improves, but all marching is in single
file.
Meshra Gurra (Blue Nile)
25
180
From here good road down L. B. Blue Nile
to Singa.
Ramela
10
190
Jaalin village.
Abu Naam
3
193
Village on Blue Nile.
Geneira
8
201
„ „ „
Seiro
7½
208½
„ „ „
Senga
19½
228
Head quarters of Senga District.
By Captain C. Roberts, R.A.,
February, 1904.
Note.—This was the route followed by the
expedition against Ibrahim Wad Mahmud in February and March, 1904.
It has not, hitherto, been the usual route to Keili, but as it is
the most direct, and could be easily improved, it will probably be
adopted, at any rate for Government purposes.
From the mouth of the Khor Ofat to Keili (50 miles) there are no
inhabitants and in February, 1904, no track. There is little
difficulty about water, which stands in pools in the Khor Ofat, or
can be easily obtained by digging in its bed. The distances cannot
be taken as accurate.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Senga
—
—
Leaving Senga, road good, mostly over
cotton soil; last part better than first, but dusty. Country
covered with bush. There are two roads; westerly one to Um Bayaga
and thence S.E. towards river, other road runs nearer the river.
Wheeled transport feasible.
Um Benein
6
6
There are two Meshras
here, bad at High Nile, fair at Low Nile; wood plentiful, grass
fairly so. From here two roads, the one nearest river is shortest.
Going on upper road bad after leaving Dar Agil, last part better
along telegraph line. Thick bush. Good camp about 2 miles from
telegraph line. Good Meshra, wood and grass plentiful, duck jhil 3
miles S. of camp.
Meshra Abu Hagar
18
24
Abu Naama
14
38
From here two roads, one along river,
other along telegraph line, latter shorter. Bad going, cotton soil, thick scrub.
Bad (steep) meshra for animals. Headquarters of District.
From here two roads, better and shorter
upper one along telegraph. Country thick bush, more undulating.
Good going.
Gura
15
53
Good meshra and shady
camp. From here two roads, lower one along river the shorter—latter
part along edge of Maya Ahmar, and cuts through it. River reached
by elephant track. Country dense scrub, and difficult for camels at
night. At high Nile lower road impassable. Good camp on sandy bed
of river. Grass plentiful and watering easy. Road now good though
hilly, and follows telegraph line, but branches off to river
opposite to Sherif Ahmed (right bank). Dense bush.
Galgeni
15
68
Taulu
19
87
A very good, large camping ground on
grass and good meshra. Wood and grass plentiful. Camp must be
swampy in rains.
Road still hilly; difficult khor about 4
miles from camp, could be easily improved. Road difficult for
camels owing to thick bush, and road along telegraph too
hilly.
Abu Kok
17
104
Camp at Abu Kok in February bad, as site
is really a marsh. Bad water, but later on river is getatable.
El Disa
10
114
From here road along telegraph, but later
branches off to El Disa on a rise overlooking small lake. Very
pretty place. Camped on sandy river bed; easy watering; wood and
grass plentiful.
After striking telegraph good road, first
4 miles through thick scrub. Hilly at first, level after passing
Abu Rainat, and much cultivation.
Roseires (Left Bank)
14
128
Good meshra, fair camping ground, wood
and grass plentiful.
Kharaba (Right Bank)
11
139
Continuing S. good going to opposite
Kharaba. Good camp in grove, tebeldis. Bad meshra; banks steep and
bed of river soft.
Mouth of Khor Ofat
16
155
Good road, last part through dom jungle
to Khor Ofat. Found eight water holes dug in khor, and cavalry
camped 1 mile further down at pool in bed of khor. Good camping
ground in bed of khor; grass and water plentiful.
Camp (Khor Ofat)
16
171
The route taken now
lay nearly due S. of Khor Ofat; for first 4 miles followed khor,
then found excellent road, except for occasional deep elephant
tracks along bank. Mostly cotton soil and thick jungle. Descended
into bed of khor after 10 miles, and marched up it to where we
found running water. Good camping ground close by. Grass, wood, and
water all plentiful. Continuing S. outside khor, cotton soil, good
going, thick bush, grass higher and thicker as we descended into
khor, 9 miles from last camp. Left khor again still heading S.,
road bad, cotton soil, trees bigger. Last 4 miles country more open
and going better. Extended formations possible. Camped at pool
where large herd of roan drinking. Khor 400 yards wide. Good camp,
grass, shade, wood, and water plentiful.
Camp, Pool (Khor Ofat)
20
191
Camp (Khor Ofat)
15
206
From here marched up khor; mostly very
heavy going, parts of it hard. Uninteresting road. Khor narrows to
120 yards. Halted at two big water holes. More water obtained by
digging under W. bank.
Continuing marching up khor which becomes
narrower and stonier, passed through several “shellal” (cataracts)
and khors running into Khor Ofat. In places bed of khor good hard
going.
Camp (Khor Ofat)
15
221
Banks become lower, bamboo jungle chiefly
with large trees. Good camp and water from holes in bed of
khor.
Camp (Khor Ofat)
13
234
Leave Khor Ofat to
the W. At first bad going, pass large patch of cultivation with
tukls and leave J. Ragreig on the E., and strike khor at pool; good
road. Khor 15 yards wide and runs E. and W. here. From here good
road to Keili. Good camping ground, but water in wells dirty. Good
water obtainable from Khor Ofat, 4 miles N.N.E. Garrison, 50
Sudanese regulars. Path from here excellent, passing through good
deal of cultivation and leaving J. Kamya from which good view of a
surrounding country obtainable close to E.
Keili
5
239
Khor Timsa
11
250
After J. Kamya track intersected by khors
and is over bad cotton soil. Good camp, grass poor, water
plentiful.
From here to Jerok trying march, as path
continually ascends and descends. J. Kurmuk is left to the W.
J. Jerok
20
270
Formerly the home of Ibrahim Wad Mahmud.
Garrison of 50 Sudanese regulars on small hill, about 1½ miles S.
Water supply scanty, but plenty for animals, 2½ miles S. in Khor
Agaheni.
By Major G. de H. Smith,
February, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Roseires
—
—
Abramat
3
3
Village on W. bank Blue Nile, road goes
through bush and grass.
Crossing Khor El Dunia, water here in
three places, not good. Road now goes S. until Seraf Jogo; usual
cotton soil and bush.
Seraf Jogo
25
50
Rest house and good water here in khor
from a spring; tobacco cultivated by the Ingasana. Bad going, over
rocks; pass spring at Pingulo; road going W. to Buk.
J. Buk
12
62
Water here under villages on S. side of
hill, not good. Road goes off N.W. towards Gule; grass and bush and
cotton soil.
Gule
27½
89½
Water here good in
two places on S. side of hill. One deep well, good water, also big
hole with Sagia; track S.W. to Khor Deleib; a flat depression with
small khor in it; sometimes water holes where Arabs water sheep.
Well 20 feet deep, good supply of water; track turns to S. to J.
Silak.
Khor Deleib
16½
106
J. Silak
22
128
Water south side of hill, full of filth,
natives even say it is bad, except just after rain. Rest house
here.
Road goes off due E. through pass in J.
Sirefat to J. Mogaja.
J. Majaju
19¼
147¼
Village on top of high rock; water has to
be brought down by natives—very good; go due South now to Abuldugu,
road over hard ground. Well can be easily sunk at bottom of hill 6
feet deep. Rest house.
J. Abuldugu
16½
163¾
Water here in pond in pass in the hills,
getting bad at this time of year (Feb.). Water obtainable from
wells in K. Ganna, not very plentiful, ½ hour E. There is a Rest
house here.
Track due S. to J. Surkum.
A track also goes to Keili (9 hours
march), water plentiful, Kukeli two-thirds of way.
J. Surkum
14
177¾
Water in four places on S. side—very
dirty.
Water also obtainable in khor about 1½
miles N.E.
J. Keili
20
197¾
Track goes off to W., and is over cotton
soil, and crosses khors. Water here plentiful. Best water S. end of
big hill some way up. Rest house.
By Lieutenant L. C. Jackson,
R.E.
The Road.Is in good condition
throughout. It is very level, except where it crosses a khor or
skirts a hill closely, there are no long ascents or descents. The
large khors are all very shallow and broad, with sandy beds, so
that at the present time of year, when they are all empty, they do
not cause the slightest delay. When passing near a hill the road is
generally rough and uneven, and covered with loose stones, and in
addition numerous small khors have to be crossed.
The Country.Is as a rule dead
flat, with the exception of the Jebels, which are like so many
islands. Except where there is cultivation, there is nothing but
bush, varying in thickness, and grass, which is now being burnt.
Cultivation as a rule consists of dura and semsem, but except where
mentioned there is nothing but bush. Where the grass has been
burnt, progress on foot through the bush is fairly easy as a
rule.
Water.Is very scarce. All the
khors are now (December) dry, but water can be obtained from holes
scraped in the bed.
The supply is rapidly decreasing, and in two or three places where
water was obtainable on our way out to Gezan, no water could be
obtained on our way back, only three days later.
Between the Khor Sumba and the Khor Karri, however, water
appears to be plentiful, and in the Khor Tumat itself there seems
to be an ample supply just below the surface.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Fazogli, Mek’s House
—
—
The road leaves the village in a
southerly direction and runs straight to the foot of J. Fazogli, on
reaching which it follows the S.E. spur, but without ascending it.
At first it runs through patches of cultivation, but after about ½
mile this gives place to thin bush. The road is for the most part
good, except where it crosses numerous small khors, tributaries of
the Khor Akluli, which also follows the foot of the ridge, as a
rule between the road and the high ground. The ascent on the right
of the road is very steep, and the hill side consists of boulders
and loose stones and is covered with scrub.
Kukuru
6¾
6¾
Whilst still W. of J. Kukuru, a few tukls
are passed, and shortly afterwards the road bends eastwards and
enters the village of Kukuru, which consists of some 50 or 60
tukls. There is a considerable amount of cultivation here, but most
of it lies S. of the khor on the Kira road. At the end of December,
1899, water was only obtainable from holes in the bed of the khor,
and appears to be very bad and scarce.
After crossing the khor the road runs
straight through the bush to J. Taza, and thence to Khor Baba. Up
to J. Taza the surrounding country is flat and the bush thick, and
nothing can be seen from the road, except an occasional glimpse of
a distant hill. A very small quantity of water was obtained by
digging in the bed of the Khor Daru on the 24th December,
1899, but four days later on returning this had dried up.
Beyond J. Taza the country is more
undulating, but still covered with bush, and for the last ½ mile
before Khor Baba it is somewhat rough.
Khor Baba
8¾
15½
Camped here 25th
December, 1899. A tributary of the Khor Tumat about 25 yards broad
where crossed by the road. Good water obtainable, but getting
scarce now. Road beyond somewhat rough and uneven, which is caused
by the spurs of J. Agaro, &c., all of which hills are left on
right. Bush, with no traces of water, until Khor Sumba is reached,
but J. Agaro is inhabited by Jebelawin.
J. Agaro
4½
20
Khor Sumba
5
25
Crossed three times in the space of about
½ mile. Probably due to an S curve in the river and not three
distinct channels. Breadth of each about 35 yards, but extremely
shallow. Banks very fertile and a good deal of cultivation,
principally dura. Good water obtainable here.
Khor Tumat
1
26
Road just enters khor, where it is joined
by Khor Kari, but leaves it again without crossing it. Khor about
60 yards broad here. No water visible, but could probably be
obtained by digging, as there is any quantity just below the
surface about 5 miles further south. From here to the Khor El Dahab
(Adaba), trees are bigger and water evidently more plentiful, with
many traces of all sorts of game.
Khor El Dahab
2¾
28¾
Crossed by the road about ½ mile from its
junction with the Khor Tumat. Water obtainable at present, but very
little and bad. Road crosses east of J. Farbau, passing over some
of the low spurs; ground broken and stony. All traces of water now
disappear and the ordinary bush begins again. Numerous small khors
are crossed, but all completely dry. J. Gumbûk is left to the E.,
and about 1 mile further on signs of water are again visible and
cultivation recommences, also two or three tukls. Henceforward
cultivation is continuous, and about ¾ mile further on at some more
tukls the road turns abruptly to the right and runs straight down
to the Khor Tumat.
Gezan (Water pool in Khor
Tumat)
8
36¾
Camp here in bed of khor 26th December,
1899. Water good and plentiful but below surface.
Milk and other supplies only obtained
with great difficulty.
By Major Gwynn, D.S.O.,
R.E.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Khor Tumat
—
—
Track passes under
the northern foot of J. Gezan. Before reaching J. Sude, water is
found in Khor Durin and Khor Gaza. A certain amount of gold washing
is carried on in both these water courses.
J. Ghezan
3
3
J. Sude
12
15
Sude was the site of an old Egyptian
Mamuria. The present Mek is a Berta and very few of the natives
know Arabic. There is a good deal of cultivation and plenty of
water is obtainable.
M’Nzila
8½
23½
M’Nzila is a large scattered village to
the south, and south of J. M’Nzila a great deal of ground is under
cultivation. The leading men, most of whom are Jaalin who
established themselves there in the Dervish time, are prosperous.
Road from Sude to M’Nzila very rough and bad, good water in the
Khor Goga near its source.
From M’Nzila there is a fair, though very
hilly, road leading west over the north shoulder of J. M’Nzila and
south of J. Tone. A very deep ravine runs along the south side of
J. M’Nzila into the valley between Dul and Kurmuk.
The descent into the valley just north of
J. Tone is very steep.
Sh. Adingam’s Village
5½
29
At the bottom of the valley is Sh.
Adingam’s village, where there is a good water supply.
Crossing the valley to J. Kurmuk several
gold washings are passed near the foot of J. Dish.
The Kurmuk village is very small and
there is little cultivation.
The road from Sh. Adingam’s is very bad
and stony till clear of the hills. Then there is flat, thickly
wooded country.
By Captain H. H. S. Morant,
February, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gule (Rest house)
—
—
The track to Renk leaves Gule in an
easterly direction and for the first mile traverses cultivation,
two small Selim Arab encampments are passed on the right hand;
thick forest at once begins, composed chiefly of 30 feet high talh,
hashab, nagba, kadad, soffar, &c., and there is a large amount
of the (to camels) deadly poisonous hekabit. At this time of year
the grass and undergrowth is burnt, but the trees are so
thick[23] that they prohibit marching at night unless
with a good moon. Riding a horse or mule one is far less
inconvenienced than if on a camel. There are fairly frequent open
spaces suitable for camping grounds.
21
21
The dense forest ceases and more or less
scattered and much lower bush takes its place.
5
26
The country through which the track leads
becomes practically open.
1½
27½
A broad, ill-defined depression, probably
a marsh in rains.
5
32½
Tall and rather close kittr commences
interfering somewhat with progress.
2½
35
The tall kittr ceases and country becomes
open.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt
2
37
A khor, 15 yards wide and 10 feet deep is
crossed, also known as Deleib.
1
38
Kittr bush commences and continues for
about 2 miles, not very dense.
4½
42½
Dense tall kittr commences, considerably
retarding progress, and lasts for 2½ miles.
2½
45
Country becomes open and cultivation is
passed on left.
1
46
Sheikh Bakhit’s (Dinka) rain village is
passed and the road now runs along the side of a low, sandy ridge
dotted with heglig trees, cultivation, and several Dinka
villages.
1
47
Dinka village on right.
1
48
Dinka village on left.
Khor Deleib or El Sunt
4½
52½
Khor El Sunt is recrossed in two
branches.
Sheikh’s village
½
53
Sheikh Aweir Wad El Rung head Sheikh at
Renk.
Village
1½
54½
Village.
Meshra Renk
1
55½
Inspector’s and police houses on bank of
White Nile. Headquarters of District. P.T.O.
By Captain H. H. Wilson,
March, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum
—
—
Jebelein
225
225
Country round Jebelein is grass with laot
and kittr bush in thick patches. River here 600 yards wide (dry
season), rocks showing river in places. For first mile or two after
leaving Jebelein open grass plain on E. of track, kittr bush
beyond. A few heglig trees between track and river.
Sherif
2½
227½
Name of spot only; this name applies to
country next two miles.
Wad Nimol Island
3½
231
Um Romad
3½
234½
End of district of this name which begins
where Sherif ends.
Maghaba
1½
236
District only; no inhabitants. N. end of
Bulli Island begins and track along khor which forms it, water only
in places in khor.
Awad El Kerim
2½
238½
Khor and small hill of this name. Road
alternately good and bad from kittr bush.
Debba Goda
3½
242
J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last visible
from here; Sheikhs Tomb on bare hill 50 feet high.
Debba El Ghoda
2¼
244¼
Small khor; ground slightly undulating
and rising inland.
Ganus
8½
252¾
Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet above
track, no inhabitants, only a name.
Karshawal
9¼
262
No huts or signs of permanent
habitations; a few Baggara “rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.
Old camp
3½
265½
Old entrenched camp about 80 yards by 30
yards on rising ground 200 yards from river on right hand side of
track, good meshra.
Karshawal Island
2
267½
Going bad on account of kittr. This is
last water before reaching Agang as river makes a bend
westwards.
Agang
13
280½
Dinka villages of Nyitau and Manjak,
generally called Agang.
Renk
3
283½
Good meshra. Police Post. Mosquitoes here
are very bad. Advisable to encamp inland near Dinka villages.
Telegraph and Post office here.
By Captain H. H. Morant,
March, 1902.
General.The road described below
runs along the river bank, or the banks of khors adjoining the
river. Since the erection of the telegraph line (1903), the road
along the line is the more generally used, being more direct. In
the rains, a road running from Renk to Goz Kash Kash thence to
Awitong is said to be the one used—this road probably leaves the
river about 8-10 miles to the W.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Khartoum.
Khartoum
—
—
Renk
283½
283½
A meshra on the W.
Nile with inspector’s house and police tukls. The road at first
leads in a S.E. direction, and after 2 miles Khor Deleib 30 feet
wide and about 6 to 10 feet deep is crossed. Another smaller khor,
a branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ mile further on. The road now runs
alongside a wide khor or branch of the Nile named Gaza El Abiad.
The track to Gule branches off in a S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka
villages are passed about a mile E. of the road (which is excellent
going), and continue at intervals until after passing Sheikh Bakhit
Niok’s (a released slave from Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A few
Shilluk villages are passed on the island called Wad Ab Kona,
formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and White Nile. This khor at High Nile
is probably 300 yards to 600 yards wide, but now (March) it is
nowhere more than 300 and fordable nearly everywhere. There are
many wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the people are mostly Selim
Baggara living in temporary encampments about a mile inland for the
grazing.
Khor Deleib
2
285½
¾
286¼
Warrit
9
295¼
Um Hedeida
11¼
306½
The encampments now cease and the water
in the khor gradually decreases until at Um Hedeida, water is
stagnant and only in small quantities. The country on E. of track
which always follows the eastern bank of khor, is covered with 3
feet high grass (where not burnt), and scattered bush and no signs
of cultivation are visible.
3
309½
Water reappears in the khor, and there
are Selim encampments to the E. of the track.
Leungtom or Domaia
3½
313
At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or Domaia
(Arab) the Nile is approached again for the first time since Renk.
About 1½ miles inland are the villages of Kolang, El Wat, &c.,
under Sheikh Salem Banga (also a released slave from Cairo). A
certain amount of cultivation is visible and the country is
tolerably open. Soon after leaving the meshra, the track follows
the eastern bank of a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. The Arab name
for it varies with the districts it traverses. The Dinka name was
not obtained. On the W. of the track is a fringe of thick talh
bush, to the E. the country is fairly open.
Debba El Zawia
4
317
The first dom palms are met here. This
Debba is the commencement of the Nabagaia district.
Dinka village, Anok
2½
319½
A village, Anok, belonging to Agweim
Dinkas, is passed about ¾ miles to E. on a slight elevation and
thick talh bush commences on both sides of the track. This village
appears to depend on the river for its water supply.
The bush gradually develops into talh and
heglig forest. There is good shade all along the khor and the
track, as it has been throughout, is excellent; the trees along the
route cause little inconvenience.
Tereiba (Arab)
9
328½
Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba
begins, and is marked by the reappearance of dom palms.
2
330½
An excellent mid-day camping ground, good
shade and water in the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible from near
here.
Debba Ibrahim Sharak (Arab)
3
333½
Dense forest
continues until reaching this slight elevation (called after a man
who was killed by an elephant here), and commences again after
about a mile of open ground, and the district of El Ragal (Arab)
begins, and the khor now takes that name.
El Ragal (Arab)
—
—
Track leading to Kash Kash (Arab and
Dinka)
2½
336
A track branches off eastwards and is
said to lead to a Dinka village or district called Kash Kash 15-20
miles from the river. There are said to be wells there. The bush or
forest after leaving Debba Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is
unpleasantly thick, especially for night travelling, but here the
bush ceases to cause any inconvenience.
Goz Abu Teiba
3¾
339¾
A slight elevation; a
mile further on the road was left and Khor Sangeir about 100 yards
wide and now (March) dry, was crossed.
Khor Sangeir or Rau
¾
340½
Khor Messangeir
1
341½
This khor would
probably be a considerable obstacle in the rains, and would have to
be crossed some distance up. After a good rainy season the people
in the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which is about 15 miles further up
are said to drink from it until well on into the dry season. A mile
further on Khor Messangeir or Mariu, or Balantega, a rather smaller
khor is crossed. J. Ahmed Agha or Biba about 300 feet above the
plain. There are several Dinka and Selim Arab villages in the
neighbourhood, but no one lives here during the rains. The Dinkas
then retire inland and the Arabs to districts N. of the fly limit.
From Ahmed Agba there is a little used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit,
which is visible from the top of the Jebel, and is described as
being distant two days without water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka
Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him when absent. There are many dom
palms around the Jebel. Water is obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed
Agha, the river which here bends S.W., is about 1 mile W. of
it.
J. Ahmed Agha or
Biba
1
342½
Heglig or Tau
3
345½
Is the name of the
district which extends for about 6 miles opposite to Gezira Wad
Beiker on the northern end of which is a Shilluk village Edor
Gamoia. Marbeit (Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the name of the next
district.
Gezira Wad Beiker
2
347½
Edor Gamoia
—
—
Marbeit or Shakab
2½
350
1½
351½
The road which has been skirting the
branch of the Nile (about 30 yards wide) for about the last 4 miles
now ceases to do so, and a grassy plain which at High Nile must be
a swamp intervenes between it and the river.
Ial Gamus
—
—
A Shilluk village on the island. The
Sheikh after whom the village is named, is a refugee from
Cairo.
Kwé
4½ ½
356
A Dinka Farikh.
Alumbul
½
356½
Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country round
is fairly open, scattered kitr and naal grass. Both these villages
are under the control of Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.
Meshra Zeraf
1½
358
The meshra extends
for about 2 miles; the road skirts the river and crosses a wide,
shallow khor called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Arabs. It is said to
come from near Aturuk.
Farlegh Meshra Zeraf or Makwé
2
360
Rom (Dinka) or Um
Gursan
3
363
Dinka villages named Rom under Sheikh
Jok. The district is known by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the track
from Renk to this point is as a rule excellent, but from here to
Kaka it is generally bad, passing over very hard caked and badly
cracked cotton soil.
2
365
Fine kuk and other trees are passed. The
small black fly was exceptionally bad here in the early morning and
attacked the camels in swarms.
Tereiti
4
369
The district of Tereiti begins. Ardeib El
Miriam (Arab) is the district on opposite bank.
Meshra Rom or
Tereiti
3
372
Meshra Rom or Tereiti.
Dinka villages, Fil and Ajak
3
375
Villages belonging to Adeir Dinkas. River
about 1 mile E. of track, to the W. the country is more or less
open with patches of bush and trees in places.
Dinka villages, Nakwé and Fithi
7
382
Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad
Ashol.
Jung Yom
¾
382¾
Dinka villages under Akol. The river is
now about 2 miles away, right of road.
Debba Shagerat
1¼
384
Arab name for knoll
on right of point where road bends westwards and crosses a marshy
(in rains) plain to Sheikh Akol’s village about 1 mile from river
opposite Kaka, where there are many Shilluk villages. The Arab name
for this marshy district is Shagerat El Ashera, and Dinka Loing
Shuk.
Debeik
2
386
Shagerat El Ashera or Loing
Shuk (opposite Kaka)
—
—
Ajok
2¾
388¾
Skirting an open
marshy (in rains) plain on right and following line of trees on
left, Dinka village named Ajok is reached. Tracks now become
numerous and ill defined, and one was followed which led across an
open marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of Kaka, wood
station, known as Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village is situated
close to the river bank.
Kaka, old wood station
6¼
405
By Captain H. H. Wilson, December,
1902, January and February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Renk
—
—
Track taken depends on the
time of the year. Up to January inland track must be followed owing
to water on the lower.
Telegraph Hill
1
1
On sandy hill near river;
village of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka from Bahr El Ghazal. From
here the track follows the telegraph line for some miles.
Khor Deleib
½
1½
Merely a dry ditch in the dry
season; another dry branch is passed about 300 yards further on.
Country here is open grass land; few small trees.
2½
4
Thin forest of laot thorn
bush and small heglig trees.
Gaikwach
3
7
A village of the Aku
district, Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another small village 300 yards
further on.
1½
8½
Position of old Dinka
village.
Kelang
2½
11
Small village of this name,
left.
Loingwen
½
11½
Beginning of village of
Loingwen, which comprises five small ones, all under Sheikh Bakhit
Niok. From here along the lower road there are no villages before
Elwat, and travellers must halt near water.
Bangdit
1½
13
Sandy debba; no habitations.
Scene of a former fight between Dinkas and Government troops. The
track now descends to the bank of the khor that divides Island of
Gaza-el-Abiad from the mainland and runs for the next 5 miles on
high sandy ridge within 500 yards of the water. Guinea fowl and
gazelle in abundance; a few tetel seen, and tracks of antelope,
hippo, and buffalo. A good deal of kittr near track since Bangdit.
No large trees.
Lardbiu
2½
15½
Sandy debba on left.
2½
18
Good camping ground.
Abiad Shwai
1
19
High sandy debba, which used
to be covered with big tamarind trees which have now gone. Shortest
track is now along telegraph line, but is probably impassable in
the rains. Leave khor on right. Country bushy with small heglig
trees and some kittr.
3¾
22¾
Sandy hill on right. Track
now crosses open plain of black cotton soil, covered with rank
grass.
Elwat
5¼
28
Beginning of Elwat, district
of Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.
1
29
Salem’s own village, about 2
miles from the river. This is the first meshra since leaving Renk.
High debba between this village and the river.
From Elwat the track runs
alternately through open ground and patches of bush and red talh to
Anak.
Anak
5½
34½
Village of Gi-el district.
Three small villages. The local Sheikh Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs
through bush and thick forest for many miles. Lower track deserted
by Dinkas, who follow the line now, as being shorter.
Mabiu
3½
38
High debba on right on edge
of khor. Track along the khor is close to line here; now get into
the land of big trees.
Dungbiagadet
1½
39½
Debba on right.
Allal
2½
42
Debba. Beginning of Allal
district, which exists in name only. Arab name Tereiba. Many thick
dom palms.
1¼
43¼
Debba Allal.
Ragal
1¼
44½
Beginning of district of
Ragal. No people.
Debba Ragal
1¼
45¾
Debba Ragal, about 200 yards
from khor. Little game seen here, though plenty of fresh tracks of
elephant, buffalo, &c.
Kefali
¼
46
Debba. Many dom palms. This
was site of old Dinka village. Open park land, which soon changes
to very thick forest; open again after 1 mile.
2
48
First view of Jebel Ahmed
Agha from track.
1
49
Forest of red talh; old Dinka
elephant pits, and many skulls of these beasts.
3¼
52¼
Track divides, one going on
to the jebel and the other eastwards—inland. This latter goes to
the Dinka district of Baanwen, which lies up Khor Rau. A track used
to exist to Goz Kash-Kash, but is now said to be “dead.”
Khor Rau
¼
52½
Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond
bend in the telegraph line; 40-feet waterway, 3 feet deep;
unfordable for loaded transport animals on account of mud
(December).
Jebel Ahmed Agha
2
54½
The route followed will be
seen by comparison to be several miles shorter than the old track
previously sketched by other officers. Shortest track is now along
line, though the going on the lower tortuous native track is
better.
Goz Unaché
2¼
56¾
High
ridge of ground on left, used to be thickly populated by Kwach
Dinkas. Whole track is through dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk,
kittr, and talh, except at Mile 62, where there is a broad open
plain.
5¼
62
Meshra Zeraf
7⅝
69⅝
Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No
Dinka villages here, though there are some old cattle zeribas.
These change yearly—last year’s spot was called Anambul. Some Dinka
refugees are, however, going to build this year on the meshra,
which is well suited for purposes of being irrigated by shadufs or
sakias. This is the first meshra since Elwat, and the last until
Kaka old wood station, though in the dry season Meshra Rom becomes
a meshra.
Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is
mostly kittr.
Khor Makwé
1¾
71⅜
600-800
yards wide, and even in dry season impassable, for some way up. In
dry season a track exists from here to Kaka wood station by the
river bank. The track to the Dinka villages, however, runs up this
khor till Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves the khor and runs off
southwards over a grass plain. Khor Makwé runs on to Aturuk, a
deserted Dinka village.
4¾
76⅛
Khor Turiak
1½
77⅝
Track runs along this khor,
and 1 mile further on crosses it. Arab name for this khor is
Fo-alig.
¾
78⅜
Enter forest now, which
consists of trees and kittr bush, alternately with occasional
patches of park-like land, for the next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on
the left of track till spot where track crosses it, and this khor
winds about on right of track till Mile 89⅛.
Gi-ka-kiu
11¾
89⅛
This is the chief village of
Rom, and this is the name generally used, though the people speak
of the grazing grounds near the river as Rom, probably denoting
that it is the grazing of the Rom people. Sheikh Jok Wad
Ageir.
Debba Fajak
4
93⅛
Site of old village.
Kolerang
1¼
94⅝
Small village, part of
Rom.
Bafing
1
95⅝
Small village, part of Rom.
Trees on horizon. Cross khor here.
2¾
98⅜
Cattle zeriba left, belongs
to Fiti (see later).
Gio
1¼
100⅝
Large village of Gio, of
district of Ageir, also called Faloich (name of the spot). Village
of the Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad Shol. Good wells here that
suffice for the needs of all the inhabitants all the year round,
but not for all their cattle. From Gio the track runs W. to
Demtemma along a well-defined ridge for several miles; villages
cluster thickly along this ridge. Khor Kayaluk runs on left of
track.
1½
102⅛
One of the villages of Beia
can be seen from here left. Trees 2 miles off right. Thick bush 1
mile left on other side of khor.
Debba Mioriak
2
104⅛
Debba Mioriak on left.
Ai-yowel
¾
104⅞
Village of Ageir on right
with one big tree on east edge. Village of Kil 1½ miles off
half-right. Village of Makwé is behind Kil in the forest.
Jung-yom
1½
106⅝
Village, part of Ageir, on
right. Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in bed of khor, available at
all period of dry seasons. Travelling is now most uninteresting, no
villages and hardly a tree to be seen.
Debba Fadiet
4
110⅝
Site of an old village. Vast
grass plain on every side; not a tree or a bush to be seen, even on
the horizon.
Debba Fojbe
3¼
113⅞
Site of another old
village.
Demtemma
7
120⅞
Situated in belt of trees on
river bank. Was till recently a police post, but latter has now
been moved to Melut, 3 miles down stream, to where the telegraph
office is.
1½
122⅜
Track crosses dry khor which
would be a considerable obstacle in the rains.
1⅝
124
Cattle zeriba of Beia on
banks of Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide here and 4 feet deep,
muddy bottom, clean banks. A big debba on south side of the khor,
and 1 mile from the mouth of the khor. Broad swamp on right of
track.
2⅝
126⅝
Track descends to river bank;
thick bush most of the way on left of track.
Tiang-rial
4⅜
131
A cattle zeriba of Beia left.
Backwater or small lake between track and river. Island in river,
north end.
½
131½
Thick bush left.
½
132
End of backwater. March on
river bank; track winds along river bank, occasionally through very
bad kittr bush, which can be avoided in places by marching along
the foreshore.
5⅜
137⅜
Big ardeib tree—conspicuous
landmark; backwater between tree and river. After 2 miles the bush
ceases, and track lies over an open grass plain.
4¼
141⅝
Cattle zeriba of village of
Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here
and runs between track and river all the way to just south of
Fashoda.
1¾
143⅜
Cattle zeriba of Bawen and
Addora, of district of Ni-el. There are three other zeribas between
these last two points.
Mialek
3¾
147⅛
Cattle zeriba of Bawen
(Ni-el).
Fanomdit
2½
149⅝
Debba and cattle zeriba of
district of Dunjol.
Faloich
1
150⅝
Debba and cattle zeriba of
Ni-el.
Wunakoch
½
151⅛
Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.
¾
151⅞
Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush
on right between track and khor.
Jomweira
—
—
Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100
yards further on. Track now crosses broad shallow khor 2 miles
wide.
1
152⅞
Bush right; grass plain
left.
½
153⅜
Track enters bush right,
leaving khor left. Forest of red talh and heglig, which continues
2½ miles to Mile 157⅛.
Faldiar Rowe
3¾
157⅛
Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track
leaving this zeriba crosses a shallow khor and passes through a
thin belt of forest on to the bank of khor.
Khor Awilwil
1⅛
158¼
Awilwil, from whence Kodok
can be seen for the first time. Track runs southwards along bank of
khor for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, and path is over vast, open,
undulating plain.
Debba Denkar
½
158¾
Good high debba.
1⅛
159⅞
Track bifurcates here, one
following khor and going to Ayung’s zeriba (see later),
and the other running through the Dinka villages of Dunjol. The
former track is the shorter by 2 or 3 miles.
Amai-rial (opposite to Kodok)
1¾
161⅝
Village of Dunjol district
which is spread over a vast plain opposite Kodok.
Amaal
1¼
162⅞
Fiuweia
1⅛
164¼
Ateptiap
3⅜
167⅜
Khor Wol
⅛
167½
Track crosses this khor which
has water in it in pools and excavations for 10 miles up. Can be
ascended by small steamers at high Nile. French steamers used to
ascend in 1898.
1⅜
168⅞
Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh
Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. This spot is almost due south of
Kodok. Between the river and this track is a broad swamp and the
formidable khor Awilwil. From here a track runs inland through the
remaining villages of Dunjol, keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil
all the way, passing through or past the following villages and
places:—
Mile
2¼.
Wunfit, debba with few trees.
„
3¼.
Faiung, village.
„
4⅜.
Wumakoch,
village.
„
6¼.
Tallen,
„
„
8¼.
Fanakwé,
„
„
9¾.
Fakok,
„
„
10½.
Ang-ak,
„
„
12.
Fobodiet,
„
„
14.
Temohuk,
„
„
16.
„
eventually running to the
Sobat River, which it joins near the Dinka district of Gnok.
1¼
170⅛
Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.
Diem Ajak
¾
170⅞
Debba 600 yards right. Bush
commences 200 yards further on. Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile
somewhere here by native report.
1¾
172⅝
Cattle zeriba of Fadweia.
Track is good and winds along the khor, which runs from near where
Awilwil joined the Nile to the south.
Wuntao
2¼
174⅞
Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name
of the locality as well as the village to which the people belong.
The Shilluk Mek’s village is due west.
Meshra Merial
2¾
177⅝
Said to be practicable all
the year round as a means of communication between Dinka and
Shilluk banks. Shilluk village Kwom opposite. Great numbers of
partridges all along here, affording excellent sport walking them
up.
The track along here is all
good going and would be quite passable in the rains.
2¼
179⅞
Cattle zeriba of Fadok
(Dunjol).
Diwot
1¼
181⅛
First Shilluk village met
with on this (east) bank. End of the Dinka country on the
river.
By Captain H. H. Wilson,
January, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Jebel Ahmed Agha
—
—
The track up Khor Rau
runs northwards for 2 miles and then crosses the khor, and turning
eastwards follows it closely. Country well wooded, though in places
the forest gives place to bush.
2
2
Gaibek
7¾
9¾
A village of the Dinka district of Gi-el,
sub-division Baanwen. The whole of this country is in certain years
under water, not from the local rains, but from the overflow of
Khor Rau, which brings water down from the Abyssinian mountains.
After such a flood, extraordinary dura crops are harvested, being
sown as late as October, when the waters subside.
Debba Mabiu
5⅛
14⅞
On R. bank of khor, which is here some 60
yards wide, with pools of water in places. Scene of fight between
Dinkas and Government troops in reign of Said Pasha.
¾
15⅝
Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of Gi-el.
Lake filled with weeds and ambach.
Birket Rau
1
16⅝
Another cattle zeriba of Kwach, and just
up stream a large open lake or swamp, filled up with weeds, &c.
Quantities of wildfowl and snipe; also lion, giraffe and antelope,
all of which were seen.
From here a track runs inland to the
Dinka villages, and a track exists up the khor, the ultimate
destination of which it is impossible to judge from native reports.
Track inland very bad, cracked cotton soil, and long, rank, unburnt
grass, which, bent down by the strong north wind, presents all its
spikes at the face of anyone marching northwards.
Awitong
6
22⅝
Built on a mound which is surrounded by
water in flood years. Country wooded, small trees.
3
25⅝
Very fine dura cultivation extending for
miles. Large white dura; one “head” which was counted contained
2,600 grains.
Dry lake
¾
26⅜
Extends some miles and track winds along
it. Many fruit-bearing sidr trees in bed of it.
Water hole
1
27⅜
Situated in thick forest; Dinkas in
zeriba near here water their cattle from this and do not go to
river until it is dry. Elephants had drunk here the previous
night.
Woniat
¾
28⅛
Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas. From here
a good track goes to Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no water to be
got on route.
Debba Fobung
2¼
30⅜
High sandy debba, from here a small hill
can be seen, Jokdit, direction was pointed out by a Dinka up a
tree; bearing 355°.
¼
30⅝
Water hole at N., foot of debba,
dries up latter on.
Track is now excellent, running through
sandy goz, ground high and forest of fine trees (sabakh). This road
is passable all through the rains, and devoid of long grass and
mud. Leads to Renk.
1
31⅝
Two small dry ponds.
Goz Kash-Kash
2¼
33⅞
Heavy sandy ground; very fine forest of
big trees. Six wells dug in the sand, water said to be available
all the year round. One huge ardeib tree by wells. Many trees
called “dorod” by Arabs, “gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs to the
river on the Ahmed Agha—Renk road, which it joins at the spot where
the old Dinka elephant pits are, but it is now disused and choked
with grass.
By Captain H. H. Wilson,
January, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Mouth of Khor Adar
—
—
Khor at mouth is about 40 yards wide and
several feet deep, the depth being, from about 100 yards up-stream,
uniformly 4 to 5 feet. Dinkas say there is a current in the
rains.
1¼
1¼
Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank; big Debba
L.
¾
2
Cross a small khor that runs in from
N.
3¾
5¾
Cattle zeriba on left
bank. Khor bends off to the R., and is joined again at 6¾ miles,
when track follows it. Cattle zeriba on L. bank ¾ mile away.
Country is open grass plain, except close to mouth of khor where it
is wooded, and a few patches of scrub here and there along the
banks.
1
6¾
1
7¾
Cattle zeriba Beia on
R. bank. Khor bends off and is joined again at 9¾ miles, from where
it makes a big bend southwards, and is not seen again till
Rengachuk is passed.
2
9¾
Going so far very bad over much cracked
soil and few shade trees.
Track now runs over a rank grass plain to
the first Dinka village at
Tedao
8½
18¼
District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad Aiwel.
From here villages can be seen ahead on all sides. Few trees,
practically a vast plain, intersected with depressions that in the
dry seasons are hard to define, and which in the rains might be
serious obstacles.
Bekjuka
2½
20¾
Another village of Beia.
Abai-at
2¼
23
Village of Ni-el; mostly cattle
thieves.
Jokdwet
1¾
24¾
Village of Jokdwet, of district
Ni-el.
Wuntao
1¾
26½
„ „ „ „
2½
29
Fairly thick trees and bush lasting 1
mile.
Rengachuk
5¼
34¼
Village of Ni-el, of the Addora people.
Consists of two portions. From here track runs down to khor
again.
2½
36¾
At this point the khor is of greater
dimensions than at the mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6 feet deep;
choked however with long reeds and sudd.
¾
37½
Track here crosses a small khor, dry in
January.
Khor Niagweia
¼
37¾
This is another important khor that is
reported to come from the Burun country, but it was reported dry a
few miles up (January, 1903). It is probably the khor shown on some
maps as “Ez Zamma,” a name which is not recognised by any
inhabitants, 60 to 100 yards wide and 4 to 5 feet deep.
Track now runs through jungle for 3
miles.
Khor Adar
7¾
45½
Khor Adar is met here again, having,
since fording Khor Niagweia, been on the R. at varying distances.
Track now follows it. Country here is very uninteresting, no game
and few trees, but the ever present long grass. Path meets the khor
at
Raduk
¼
45¾
Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet; track
cuts across a bend and meets khor at
Gwatan
3¼
49
Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people mostly
wanted by the police, and who have retired to a safe distance. Khor
close on L.
2¼
51¼
Track crosses a khor that is dry 100
yards up.
Many elephant tracks on edge of khor, but
made in the rains. From here a track exists through a country of
unburnt elephant grass, the actual ground being well-nigh
impassable, being ploughed up by elephants, and overgrown with a
tangle of vegetation, through which nothing but fire or elephants
could make a path. Looking from the top of an high ant-heap, the
country is seen to be more wooded inland.
Khor Benatat
7
58¼
Is said to join Khor Adar about 7 miles
up. Dinkas also state that two other khors joins Khor Adar ahead,
one from S. Khor Aturuk, and one from N. Khor Fao-eng.
From here to the Nuer country is
variously described as being from 2 to 5 days.
By Major G. de H. Smith,
May 1904.
N.B.—This is not a route that is much used, but it was opened up
by cutting the bush, etc., in May, 1904, with a view to its
possibly being suitable as a trade route from Beni Shangul to the
White Nile at Melut. The going is nearly all over bad cotton soil
and the water supply is at present very uncertain. It would no
doubt be difficult during the rainy season.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
J. Jerok
—
—
Site of Military
Post. From here route to J. Maiak is that taken by the Wad Mahmud
expedition in February, 1904. Water in pools in Khor Ahmar
1½ miles before reaching this hill.
J. Maiak
19
19
J. Eri
11
30
Pond of rain-water, very uncertain, about
1½ miles from the hill.
Villages of Gum Gum people
9
39
About 7 miles from Eri, a khor with
rain-water (May) is crossed, and further on, the villages of Gum
Gum people are reached. They drink from pools to the east of Khor
Gemmeiza and, at certain seasons, from rain pools about 1 mile W.
of villages.
K. Gemmeiza
8
47
Water in pool in
khor. A rain pool is passed about 4 miles further on, and the
villages of Burun from Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are reached.
Kilwega
7
54
Sami (K. Gemmeiza)
10
64
K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very winding
bed, a mile or two to the south of and parallel to the track. A
path has been cut to a watering place in the khor, called Sami.
Past old burnt village of Kurara Buruns, who now occupy village on
new road-cultivation here, and water used by people from J. Ulu in
dry season. Khor very narrow and covered up with willows; on both
sides are swamps. Khor losing traces of sand. Two water holes here
could be much improved.
From Sami, track cut along high ground until
Ulu track is met, going to
Khamiret El Tin
14
78
Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles off. This
is a good track and much used but very tortuous, and follows along
ridge of high ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, a track from Ulu to
Um Adil on Khor Sami is crossed; this is apparently called Um Ebeil
on Pruyssenaere’s route.
About one hour from Khamiret El Tin,
track leaves khor and goes along a depression in which, later on,
the 7 Hafiras of Khamiret El Tin village are. These are
roofed-in ponds of marsh water and zeribaed to prevent animals,
etc., drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of these now full of
water.
Khamiret El Kurda
6
84
There are two water holes in Khor Sida,
which is the same as Khor Sami, S.W. of village and used by some
people who live there. This is better water. From here 6 miles off
is Khamiret El Kurda; people from here now drink at Kumara Hellet
Bishara. These villages are under Sheikh Ata Mannan.
Kumara Hellet Bishara
7
91
Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as also
here, goes into Farashes and is apparently lost.
Hellet Bitter
12
103
From here, 12 miles, general direction
S., is Hellet Bitter; water not obtainable here all the year round;
people drink at Bishara, etc., according to time of year.
Hellet Banjom
6
109
No water here at present; road bad
going.
Wad Deluka
14
123
About 14 miles off, in S.W. direction.
Water here in two wells, one has fallen in.
Melut
52 (?)
175 (?)
On the White Nile.
By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G.,
D.S.O.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Uryong
—
—
Uryong is a small Dinka village on the
right bank. From this point there is a much used short cut straight
across to Kodok. The road from Uryong as far as the beginning of
the Dunjol villages must be almost entirely under water at high
Nile, but even then the Dinkas can find the track, which is marked
here and there by small mud heaps. In the dry season from Uryong to
Dunjol is generally traversed by night, as there is no water
obtainable till the Dunjol wells are reached. From Uryong the road
traverses open marsh land for about 2½ miles and then enters a belt
of thick white thorn about 3 miles wide. After this the country
gets more and more bare, and for the last half of the way to Dunjol
there are no trees at all.
Dunjol
31
31
At Dunjol there are a number of Dinka
villages which stretch north along a very shallow khor, in which
wells are sunk some 30 feet deep in the black clay. They are
revetted with grass.
Village
9
40
The tree belt near
the Nile is visible from these villages, and there are many paths
leading off it. After following the line of the khor for about 5
miles, the road strikes off towards the Nile and passes through a
village which draws its water from the Nile, then it turns north
again and passes through another village before descending into the
marsh ground flooded at high Nile.
Village
6
46
Opposite Kodok
2
48
The road from Dunjol to this last village
is sandy, and would probably be generally dry.
[21]In 1904, there was a small village and well
at J. Mazmum.
[22]A road has been cut (1904) direct from Agadi
to Gule.
[23]A good deal, if not all, of this wad has
been cleared (1904).
CHAPTER VI. — 48.—NASSER to URYONG. [24] — 49.—GOKJAK to KEIK. — 50.— Itinerary up the BAHR EL ZERAF.
(SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.)
By Major Gwynn, C.M.G., D.S.O.,
February, 1901.
There is a good road in the dry season from Nasser down the
Sobat.
Practically no supplies can be obtained from natives, but guinea
fowl are common and gazelle can generally be shot. There are
generally plenty of trees and bush as far as Nyakwoik, but after
entering the Dinka country the only trees which are seen are a few
grown in the villages for shade. The Dinkas carry charcoal long
distances for fuel.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Right bank, opposite Nasser
—
—
Starting on right bank, opposite Nasser,
the following villages were passed on the north bank:—
Tawba
9
9
⎫
⎬
⎭
Small Nuer villages.
Nyakwoik
3
12
Gau
3
15
Shillup (1st camp)
1½
16½
From this point a waterless road strikes
straight to Fashoda, 3 days’ march for natives.
Ford Kofiat (Sheikh Akol)
2
18½
At Kofiat the river was
forded. About 3 feet deep and 200 yards wide. Exit on south bank
bad, but bottom firm and good. The road on the north bank was said
to be overgrown, and there was little sign of inhabitants on the
south bank; cutting across a large bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel,
and Nyandeng; the latter is a small village near a dry shallow
drainage khor. Thick bush and bad mosquitoes.
Nyanlang
3½
22
Fauwel
½
22½
Nyandeng (2nd camp)
3
25½
Minchom
2¼
27¾
Thence cutting another bend
through Minchom, striking the river again at Twednyang.
Twednyang
2¾
30½
Ashol
½
31
Thence striking across bend
through Ashol, to Abong, thence to Patiyam, which is the last Nuer
village; now enter the Nyuak district of Amol.
Abong
1½
32½
Patiyam
1½
34
Gehinyar
3
37
The first Nyuak village, on the river
bank.
Reitsum
2¾
39¾
Thence following the river
through dry marsh, strike across bend through Fedwil.
Malwal (3rd camp)
3¼
43
Fedwil
1¼
44¼
Sheikh Gwat’s.
Bwoilbang
¾
45
To Bwoilbang.
Wegin
2
47
At Wegin reach river again opposite
marshy island and keep along bank.
Shwai
2
49
Leave river again at Shwai,
and thence to Fatiwanyang, the residence of Sheik Aiwel, who is
very friendly to the Government. There are a number of elephant
near his village. Leave the river and skirt a swampy district. Some
cattle.
Fatiwanyang
3¾
52¾
Yakwoik
5½
58¼
Yakwoik is a few miles up
stream of Major Austin’s base camp, which however was not seen.
From here strike across a big bend; no water obtainable till river
is reached again, after a march of 12 miles. All trees cease near
Wangnait, which is the 1st Dinka village, and is one of a large
group of villages.
4th camp
1¼
59½
Wangnait (5th camp), Sheikh Bang
17
76½
Gobtoing
3
79½
Thence cutting across a series of small
bends to Gobtoing; thence to
Tubu
3
82½
Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to
Adong
3½
86
Adong,
Dud
1½
87½
Dud, and
Uryong
2½
90
Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is Sheikha of
Uryong.
Ford (6th camp)
1½
91½
There is a ford 1 mile below here.
Village at the head of the island, crossing 4 feet deep.
Uryong
½
92
On the opposite bank is the 2nd village
of Uryong, from which runs the direct road to Kodok (48 miles),
videRoute 47.
By Captain H. H. Wilson, April and
May, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gokjak
—
—
Small compact village
on left bank of Sobat, good dry banks, few trees. Track from Gokjak
runs over open plain, very bad going, black cotton soil; large
cracks in ground, making it difficult for transport animals. Khor
100 yards wide, running parallel to river, dry in April; track
continuous over open grass plain, mostly burnt in dry season, and
no trees except one or two solitary ones to
1½
1½
Shol Ajik
7
8½
Small Dinka village on right bank of Khor
Filus, which runs from here to its mouth (10 miles from mouth of
Sobat); khor dried up into pools, water muddy; few trees in
village, also Sheikh’s tomb with huge elephant tusk. The tracks run
on to M’Yolga; inland track the better, alternative track follows
and passes under large trees for 3 miles; track bad to
M’Yolga
8½
17
Long straggling Dinka
villages on Khor Filus, water in pools, fair; many water-fowl.
Sheikhs Ayung Yor and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds about the end
of M’Yolga district. Two small villages on khor, and 2 miles
further on enters bush of red talh, which leaves and crosses grass
plain after 1½ miles, and rejoins khor 3 miles further on.
Water available, banks of khor thickly wooded with thorn
bush; a few good trees.
4
21
7
28
Small ferik, or cattle village, in dry
season. These feriks are all same type, dome-shaped grass tukls,
with open spaces with pegs for picketing cattle, &c. Some have
zeribas.
Gekrek
3
31
Name of locality; good camping ground on
left of khor, which is easily crossed in dry season; 2 feet of
water covered with matted weeds, water fair; ground gradually
becoming more wooded; heglig and gemmeiza.
Adodit
2¼
33¼
Name of locality; khor twists about
considerably; track cuts across a corner here, and joins khor again
after 2 miles, and continues to
Biar
6½
39¾
Name of locality; country between M’Yolga
and Nerol uninhabited, being a “no man’s land” between Dinkas and
Nuers; men of one tribe crossing to territory of other tribe do not
return as a rule.
4
43¾
Small khor, merely draining few miles of
lowlying land in rains.
Fan Yanglwel
2¼
46
Name of locality;
thickly wooded, with high knolls, good camping ground, water muddy.
From here run two tracks; one to Nerol, along the khor; a second
across country to Riul. Latter track crosses khor Fanyanglwel and
runs along left bank of khor for 3 miles, passing one ferik at 47th
mile, and then cuts across an open plain with few scattered trees,
and meets Khor Filus at Riul.
1
47
The former track runs through beautiful
country along bank of Khor Filus; thickly wooded, waterfowl in
abundance, also harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a little water in
places, in the khor, under matted reeds. Khor very winding to Nerol
(9 miles). Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor; fine sheet of water
(some 2 miles long in places) 50 to 60 yards wide, and in places
deep; good colour and taste. Village of Nerol about 6 miles due
south, according to guides; at bend of Khor Filus, at mile 10, Khor
Chirol or Nerol flows in, said to flow from Nyang Deng on Sobat,
near Nasser, 30 to 40 yards wide, nearly dry (April). Track now
runs along khor straight to Riul, 5½ miles further on.
Riul
6¾
53¾
A cattle ferik on right bank of khor,
village proper lies two miles inland due south, behind thick belt
of trees.
Tut
2¼
56
Cattle ferik under
good shady trees, village proper inland behind trees; good camping
ground; thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of track; good pool of
water in khor, 400 yards from camp, which is on rising ground, no
trees for shade.
2¼
58¼
Meinom
2¼
60½
Cattle ferik, and village inland is
visible.
1
61½
Another large cattle
ferik, also rest of Meinom village proper visible inland; track now
runs straight for 7 miles, passing feriks of Riang and Reir on the way to small
khor; country thickly wooded on left of track, thinly on
right.
7
68½
Fading
3½
72
Important scattered
Nuer village in trees on right of khor; large pool of water,
surrounded towards its northern end by ambach swamp, many and
varied waterfowl; a track runs from here to large village of
Falliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in forest; water fair at Fading;
cattle ferik and pool, with ambach fringe round edge, water
bad.
1½
73½
Fatowel
4
77½
Three cattle feriks of this name on khor;
several pools of stagnant water; track crosses open plain 1 mile
wide, and then for 7 miles runs through forest of Inderab, along
bed of khor, crossing and re-crossing it, forest then thins out,
and next 4 miles is over grass plain to
Shit
12½
90
Large cattle feriks, village proper 2
miles away S.W. on left bank of khor; large pool of very foul
stagnant water. No other water nearer than 3 miles fit to drink.
Ambach swamp round water, waterfowl plentiful.
3
93
Track runs 3 miles across open grass
plain, over good sandy track, and enters this red talh bush, which
gives place shortly to thin forest of heglig; large trees.
Fulnob
3
96
Long straggling village on left of track,
fair amount of dura cultivation.
Dwok
4½
100½
A very large scattered village, well
built tukls; cattle tukls being particularly fine; most of these
Nuer villages are built in thin forest, making it impossible to
estimate their full extent without penetrating long distances into
the woods.
Amwot-el-Sogheir
4½
105
Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or three
shallow muddy wells; few trees; track now runs across Amwot plain,
thickly populated; tukls in groups; probably homesteads every few
hundred yards for 4 miles to the wells.
Wells of Amwot-el-Sogheir
4
109
Dug on sandy bank of a large shallow
khor; khor dry in April. Banks lined with um suf; cattle ferik on
edge of khor; wells 12 in number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2 feet 6
inches in diameter; fairly thick forest of abu hemeira and trees
called soba and leun. Leaving Amwot wells, track enters thick
forest, which extends for 2 miles, then continues over plain for
another 2 miles, finally runs through very thin forest to
Keik
6½
115½
Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur; in
centre of village is a cone, built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high, seen
at least 3 miles off, surmounted with elephants’ tusks, and a huge
spike like a lightning conductor; base of cone on east sides
planted with elephants’ tusks, with points turned outwards.
Fair amount of dura cultivation; beyond
village of Keik, to N.E. and S., is a vast open plain with no
trees; no wells or other water found; ground is fairly high and
presumably healthy.
Shit
—
90
From Shit, which is 90 miles from
Gokjak, a track runs almost due south, crossing Khor Filus; good
going.
1½
91½
Village proper of Shit about 1 mile away
on left bank of khor in thick trees.
1½
93
Group of 6
wells dug in bed of khor; cattle ferik on right bank of
khor; cattle watered from these wells; water when drawn up poured
into shallow circular troughs of puddled sand and mud, to enable
cattle to drink. Another similar group of wells; track
branches off to right, to small village, part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½
miles distant. Track now runs along bed of khor.
1
94
1
95
Amwot-el-Kebir
3¼
98½
Filus, to beginning
of Amwot-el-Kebir, in line of trees running north and south; track
now descends across plain and crosses khor to main portion of
village. Villages of great extent, part built in plain, but greater
part (impossible to estimate) built in woods; tukls well built and
very numerous; much dura cultivation; group of wells.
3½
101½
Note.—No local Nuer guides can be
obtained for any of the above country from M’Yolga to Keik, owing
to the active hostility of Nuers. The only men who know the general
lie of the country are Dinkas who have been slaves of Nuers, or who
lived in this country before Nuers seized it. They can be obtained
at M’Yolga, but, at the best, are not reliable as regards water or
distances.
By Major Stanton, October,
1898—Additions by Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G., March,
1899.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
—
—
On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, the
current is strong[25]—3 miles an hour—the depth 20 feet, and
channel narrow at first; opens out from 30 yards to 80 yards a
couple of miles up. Water is clear, and of a dark brown tinge.
Jebel el Zeraf lies away to the south-east on R. bank 5 miles off;
there are four distinct hills, all of volcanic rock, covered with
bush. A broad open plain, marsh near the river, extends to the foot
of these hills R., while L. is wooded and scrub—open plain behind;
here hippopotami, elephant, giraffe, water-buck, and reed-buck have
been seen.
5½
5½
Grass plain both banks, with a little low
scrub L. From here on to 30, flat marshy plain both banks.
24½
30
Wood obtainable; some large trees L.
bank, dry marsh R.
5
35
Bush commences both banks; river bends
backwards and forwards, banks wet and marshy, and landing
difficult. This continues till 60.
10
45
Dry place L.
15
60
Large open maya L. Water runs inland some
distance. River continues to make loops and bends; channel 80 to
100 yards broad.
10
70
Scrub ceases both banks, boundless marsh
extending to horizon opens up; several large sheets of open water
are passed.
8
78
Farthest point reached by Major Peake,
5.10.98. Egyptian flag hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from mouth of
river. River 80 yards wide; current 2 miles per hour.
Kuchuk Ali (?)
2
80
River bends about a great deal; some of
the curves are very sharp; patches of open water each side at
intervals; open marsh both sides with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twenty
hours’ steam from mouth.
2
82
Solitary small Dom palm passed on R.
3
85
Clump of thick small trees R. in 3 feet
of water close to channel; thousands of divers build in these trees
(October, 1898). Wood for steamers could be cut here, but with some
difficulty, unless the water falls; scrub begins first beyond here
on L. bank. R. continues open.
12
97
Large sheet of open water or maya about 1
mile away R.; bush on horizon beyond.
3
100
Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees on
horizon west L.
Gauer (?)
10
110
Scattered Nuer houses seen on horizon 6
miles away L.; village 2 miles farther on under trees believed to
be village of Gauer. Open plain R. Small clump of trees in water at
107, where wood could be obtained if necessary. Shallows sometimes
to 4 feet; generally 10 feet.
10
120
Trees close to channel L.; open patches
of water.
2
122
Maya and stream comes in L.; this leaves
the proper channel at 130 higher up, and cuts across a corner
direct.
5
127
Thick trees L. and clump of trees R., all
in water (October); sharp turn west.
3
130
Channel turns again S. Maya and stream
come in L. Solitary palm visible S. R. bank open marsh, bush ends
L.
5
135
Solitary Dom palm passed on edge of
channel L., marsh both banks, trees and scrub begin again L.
5
140
River bends west. Dom palms visible
west.
4
144
Sparkes’ farthest point in steamer:
aground.
Kuchuk Ali
4
148
“Lotus” River comes in R.; channel 50
yards, covered with large “Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station here
just inside the mouth of “Lotus” River, where dry land can be
reached by steamer. Wood extends back in water for 2 or 3 miles,
but sufficient can be cut on dry ground. This is the last place
where steamers can wood, as all other wood seen, being either Dom
or Deleib palm, is useless for fuel. “Lotus” River dried up in
March.
Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom palms; open
water seen N.W. From here on the channel goes through numerous
lagoons; the water appears slightly discoloured by mud; the stream
increases in strength, and the channel in width.
3
151
Sharp bend S.; large volume of water
flows out of channel into marsh N., and makes open mayas seen about
1 to 1½ miles away. Dom palms, close to river, dry ground 1 mile
farther on L., thick Dom palms; channel 100 to 150 yards broad,
numerous lagoons. Scrub and wood 1 mile away R.
Kuek
8
159
Small village on edge of lagoons, larger
one behind under Dom palms, known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, and
friendly. Egyptian flag left here with them; natives frightened by
steamer, but reassured afterwards. After passing their village the
regular channel gets lost as it flows to the west of clump of Dom
behind Kuek, where it gets blocked by sudd, the water finding its
way through the marsh and lagoons. The “Abu Klea” continued
(October, 1898) in a southerly direction, and after crossing a
lagoon 11 feet deep, which shallowed down to 4 feet, the main
channel again struck, 18 feet deep.
Wayo
—
—
Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar, close
by. No Dinkas round this way. Left here by a narrow passage through
the reeds, and joined what is evidently the main river, 80 to 100
yards broad and very deep channel. It comes in from other side of
villages, and natives say it is blocked by sudd lower down. This
channel through which neither steamer or gyassa could get is
evidently that mentioned by Peake, between 150 and 160 miles, which
he went through, and which was only 5 feet deep. It is now just
over 2 feet deep.
Mogren el Buhur Zeraf
3
161
Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One channel
comes in from S.E., which ends 6 miles up in a large open lake 9
feet deep, and with numerous villages scattered about on bits of
dry ground surrounded by a sea of marsh and sudd.
The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be only a
few hours in a canoe (about 6) through the reeds in westerly
direction. It is stated to be blocked N. of this point.
The second channel comes in from a
southerly direction going up-stream, after bending a good deal,
passes an old tree like an English elm near two small villages, and
flows close by large village of Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; Sultan
Diu, the head of the Nuers in this locality, resides here. Large
clump of Deleib palms, 500 yards from channel.
Ajiung Lake
14
175
Ajiung village R. Large village under
Deleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N. (approximate). Large straggling lake;
sudd S., S.W., and S.E.
Channel goes on another 13 miles, then
ends in 3 feet of water on large sudd-covered lake. A large maya
goes off N.E., which is declared closed about 5 miles up; this
water probably forms the River “Lotus” farther down. If it is
intended to go from the Bahr el Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel, natives
should be got from Ajiung to direct the course, which lies entirely
through patches of sudd and open water. The direction marked on the
map should be somewhat more towards the north. The channel at
Ajiung, which is broad and deep, soon narrows, and current becomes
less as the head is reached, clearly showing that a great deal of
the water in the channel at Ajiung flows through the reeds and
sudd, where the depth appears to be about 4 feet. The whole country
S. and S.W. of Ajiung appears to be one vast sudd-covered lagoon
through which the waters forming the Bahr el Zeraf flow until the
main channel is formed; pieces of sudd measuring 40 yards by 30
were met after a severe storm in the western branch. Such pieces of
sudd are liable at any time to block the present channel and cause
a fresh one to open out.
[26]Major G. E. Matthews steamed up about 30
miles beyond this point in August, 1904, but was then stopped by
sudd.
CHAPTER VII. — 51.—MESHRA EL REK to TONJ. — 52.—WAU to MESHRA EL REK. — 53.—TONJ POST to WAU. — 54.—TONJ TO RIKTA’S VILLAGE. — 55.—WAU TO TEMBURA. — 56.—WAU to DEIM ZUBEIR. — 57.—CHAK CHAK to DEIM ZUBEIR. — 58.—DEIM ZUBEIR to KOSSINGA. — 59.—KOSSINGA to WAU (FORT DESSAIX). — 60.—KOSSINGA to HOFRAT EL NAHAS. — 61.—RAGAA to DEIM ZUBEIR. — 62.—KOJALI to TONJ. — 63—TONJ to RUMBEK. — 64.—RUMBEK to SHAMBE. — 65.—RUMBEK to DARAGO’S and M’VOLO. — 66.—M’VOLO to KIRO (BAHR EL JEBEL). — 67.—RUMBEK across NAAM to AWODI. — 68.—RUMBEK to MANGI’S VILLAGE.
(BAHR EL GHAZAL.)
By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd,
January, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Meshra El Rek
—
—
Leaving the Nuzl, the track crosses a
khor some 15 feet deep, by a bridge partly under water. After 100
yards bridge ends and you wade waist deep for 3 miles.
Camp
3½
3½
Always dry, but mosquitoes very bad. Good
water all the year round. Very bad track leading due S. between
grass 7 feet high. Ground much cut up by cattle passing in the
rains.
Unangarp
7½
11
A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N.
boundary of Lau district. Head Sheikh Kwitol.
Manashin
2
13
Water holes, which are said never to dry
up completely, situated on W. of track. Good camp, well marked by a
deleib growing out of centre of gemmeiza tree on track. No
supplies.
Track continues nearly due S., winds a
great deal, and much cut up. Bad going for man and beast.
War Lai
6¾
19¾
A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It is
said never to dry up; 300 by 200 yards. Fair drinking water.
Animals easily watered by digging trenches.
Fulbar
6
25¾
Road through an open forest, grass lately
burnt. Track better, but much broken in places by old elephant
tracks. Fulbar is a large swamp, said never to dry up. Many
elephant tracks. Good water.
Leaving the pool, the track joins the
main road a mile on. Fair track.
Amangnok
7
32¾
A large swamp, good water, lasts all the
year, on W. of track, which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, passing the
village of Sheikh Angong Marial.
Mana Alangjok
—
—
A large Dinka cattle enclosure,
well-known throughout this district.
War Gel
7
39¾
Pools in a swamp. Water said to last all
the year. Bad shade. Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s house is passed
on the N. of the road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s village over a
mile long is left to the W.
Haleik
7
46¾
A swamp, left to W. of road, water said
to last all the year. Track generally good, but cut up by elephants
in places. Sheikh Wal Mabior’s village is entered 2 miles from
Ateim swamp.
Wal Mabior’s, or Ateim
5
51¾
A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ miles
from N. to S. Very good and plentiful water.
Mowok
2
53¾
A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very good
track through open country. Heglig trees and little bush.
Mabior Dod’s
2
55¾
Large swamps. Good water; called Katoi.
Fair shade. Good track through rather open and perfectly level
country. Soil sandy in places.
Again Well, Ewal Gor’s
5
60¾
Small water holes, little water. There is
a good deal of cultivation about, and Dinka huts every few hundred
yards.
Sheikh Bak Bong Yep’s
4
64¾
Four bad and one good water holes. Latter
known as Abaing, after a small tree near it; watered 200 men
easily. The four other holes just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair
shade. Obtained some dura.
Teing Teing well
1
65¾
One fair well, or rather hole; water for
30 or 40 men. Good going on the whole.
“Dug-Dug” (ruins)
4
69¾
Site of an old cattle enclosure, marked
by some mounds of earth and some usher bushes.
Atubbu
11
80¾
One water hole; dirty water, but enough
to give 200 men a drink.
Aweid
2
82¾
A small swamp, but plenty of fair water.
Fair shade under heglig trees. Track passes across an open plain
covered with grass, which in places is 10 feet high. Few trees, but
trees of the Tonj valley seen in the distance to the S. Bad going
for first 3 miles, then very good.
Atang’s (N. end)
4¼
87
The direct road to
Tonj Post leads to the W.S.W. Another, down a khor, in which are
several water-holes strikes the River Tonj. Small camp on left
bank. The river bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet deep. Water 25
yards wide and 18 inches deep. Good water; sandy bottom. No
mosquitoes.
R. Tonj
3
90
Leaving the river the track for 3 miles
goes through long grass, then crosses a plain; grass at first, then
covered with grass and bush.
Abuior Sheikh Maton’s and War
Rual
9
99
A small water hole (War Rual) on W. of
track at N. end of Sheikh Matoin’s village (Abui). There are a few
more wells to the W., but the best water is a mile to the E. in a
swamp. Good shade near road.
War Tit
2
101
A pool 50 by 30 yards, now dry. There is
a small water hole near the road.
Very good track through bush, with many
large trees, until within a mile of the river, when a belt of
forest is entered.
Tonj River Post
5
106
A great part of the above road is under water during the rains,
and only passable to carriers.
By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd,
March, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
The following is the Government route and
is used by all convoys:—
Wau
—
—
Crossing the river Jur, the track enters
high grass for a mile until the E. side of the valley is reached.
Then thick bush and ironstone ridges.
Sheikh Malwal’s new village
(Jur)
4
4
Rest house and well 150 yards S. of
track. Track continues over ironstone ridges, but bush is much more
open near the track.
P. Rumbashia
5¾
9¾
A rain pool 30 yards by 20 yards; 3 feet
6 inches deep when full; now contains 18 inches water. Halting
place for bull transport. A quarter-mile on there are 3 more small
pools in the rock.
Sheikh Malwal’s old village
(Jur)
1¼
11
Jur name Rurruish. Rest house, 2 tukls, 1
shelter, and good well. Water trough. Bush now becomes thick; many
deserted villages passed.
Sheikh Moyen’s (Dinka)
12
23
So called, but he has now moved some way
N. of the road, rest house, 2 tukls, 2 sheds, and 1 rekuba. Well
with good water. The ironstone formation is left.
Track over level plain, now dry and
covered with high grass, would be very wet in rains. A few Dinka
houses are seen, many deserted ones passed.
Water hole
9½
32½
Six feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, good,
but much discoloured water. Used by Aiyum’s people.
Sheikh Aiyum’s (Dinka)
2½
35
Extensive Dinka village chiefly N. of
road. Rest house, 2 tukls, 2 shelters, and large tukl for the bull
transport.
Open grass-covered plain with scattered
trees. Swampy in rains. Mosquitoes troublesome.
Bir El Jaalin (Arab), Malau
(Dinka)
7
42
Old wells in clump of deleib palms, site
of old village.
Deleiba
8
50
Rest house, 3 tukls, 1 bad well; water
gave out after 30 men had drawn their water, but well refills
quickly. Many deleib palms. Mosquitoes.
Track winds to avoid the bush, which is
thick some 200 yards away from the track W.
“Dug-Dug”
5
55
Rest house, Dinka name Noi. 3 tukls and 2
good wells.
Track again winds about to avoid the
thick bush. Very thick grass in places.
Bir El Gurud
6
61
Rest house, 3 tukls. Two wells (one now
dry), 8 feet deep. Good, but muddy water. After passing through a
belt of bush 300 yards wide the country becomes perfectly flat and
open. Covered with high grass and scattered trees. Little bush
anywhere. The going is bad as the track from here to Meshra. is
mostly under water during the rains.
Old wells near single deleib
palm
7½
68½
Could not obtain name. A well-known place
and site of old Dinka village.
Sheikh Gadein’s
3½
72
So called. Sheikh Bok is the chief man. A
large village. Rest house, 2 good tukls, 1 shelter. Good water from
wells. Depôt for bull transport. Road and country as before.
Gemmeiza tree
9
81
Well-known halting place, as there is a
pool 50 yards in diameter which holds water for some 6 or 8 weeks
after the rains.
Rest house W. end of Sheikh Mayik’s
village
6
87
Two tukls and shelter under gemmeiza
tree. Wells dry 13th March, 1904. Route winds much through the
village.
Rest house E. end of Sheikh Mayik’s
village (Dinka)
5½
92½
Two tukls, 1 shelter under a single
deleib palm. One well 15 feet deep, 8 feet in diameter, 3 feet of
good clear water. No people seen; they are said to have gone down
to the river with their cattle.
Country good, level, and open as before;
but track somewhat better.
Three miles from the rest house there is
a water hole 50 yards S. of track near a small deleib palm, 8 feet
deep, 10 feet in diameter; good water.
Sheikh Madal’s (Dinka)
9
101½
Rest house at W. end of village; 3 good
tukls, 1 shelter, good well. Dinka name of well Atien ful. The
native houses are chiefly on the N. side of the wood and ½ a mile
away.
War Kul
4¾
106¼
(War = pool) Pool 20 yards by 10 yards.
Good water situated in a swamp now dry. There is a clump of bush on
higher ground 100 yards N., which would be a dry spot for a
camp.
Sheikh Amien’s (Dinka)
1¾
108
Rest house. Two tukls and well, at W. end
of village which is scattered along the route for 3 miles. Road has
been cleared in the village and ruts caused by traffic in rains
filled up. The going then becomes bad. Black soil; grass, and a few
scattered trees. Three miles from Meshra, high grass and a swamp is
entered. Going very bad and water waist-deep in places. Close to
the Nuzl a khor is crossed by a bridge, but it is now 2 feet 6
inches under water.
Meshra El Rek
11
119
By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd,
February, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
The whole of this road is over ironstone
ridges, except where it is crossed by khors. The going is good and
in many places the bush has been cleared. It is proposed to clear a
route from Tonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas to Kawagana, and
thence follow this route to Wau.
There was sufficient water everywhere in
February, 1904, along this route for 300 men and 100 mules.
Tonj Post
—
—
The route follows the left bank of the
river Ba, at first, to Morgan Bongo’s house, and thence bears
slightly N. of W. Good track, but thick bush, and grass on both sides until within a
mile of Aiidu’s wells, when cultivation is entered.
Sheikh Aiidu’s
10
10
A small Jur village, to W. of which is
the rest house; 2 good tukls. Good water from wells.
Track continues through thick bush and
grass, crossing some grass covered swamps, now dry. Ironstone, good
going. A mile from the next rest house the track descends a steep
bank, 81 feet high, and crosses a small khor.
River house at River Mulmul
8½
18½
On right bank. One good hut, but little
shade near. Water from pools in bed of river. The track now crosses
the valley of the River Mulmul, which is flat, covered with thick
grass, and very swampy in the rains. There is a khor on the left
bank of valley, and some wells 2 feet deep. Good and plentiful
water. Route passes through Sheikh Agan’s village and over a stony
ridge to the rest house.
Rest house, Sheikh Agan’s
(Jur)
4½
23
The village is called Mudi. Two good
tukls. Water from wells in River Mulmul.
Good track, but much high grass.
Sheikh Arum’s (Bilanda)
3½
26½
A small village with little cultivation.
Two tukls for rest house. Road now winds a good deal through high
grass and bush, and crosses several places that are swampy in the
rains.
Sheikh Akuong (Jur)
6½
33
Rest house of 2 tukls and a rekuba; water
from well.
Munga well
2½
35½
There is a small rekuba on N. of road.
The wells are 300 yards S., and consist of 3 holes 4 feet deep with
2 feet of good water, which flows in quickly. Full of frogs.
Immediately beyond cultivation and the village commence.
Sheikh Kangor’s
1½
37
Rest house is at N. end of village. Four
tukls, water from Manga well. Bush and high grass. Route crosses
one place that must be very wet in the rains.
Kawagana
3½
40½
A rock-pool 60 yards by 25 yards, and 2
feet 6 inches deep. Good clean water, said to last all the year.
Rain water; no spring. Two tukls, bush thick. The direct road from
Tonj Post, viâ Jur Ghatas, comes in here.
Khor
4
44½
300 yards wide and 30 feet deep,
ironstone sides; no water. Only 80 yards show signs of being swampy
in the rains. Track crosses another khor and then ascends a ridge
(60 feet) which it follows for 2 miles and then descends into Khor
Mbili, where there is a rest house with ghafir.
Rest house in Khor Mbili
4
48½
Three tukls. Water from wells in khor.
Road has been cleared for 2 miles on each side.
Khor Tala
3
51½
20 yards wide and 10 feet deep, bridged.
Route now ascends an ironstone ridge for a mile and then winds
round it. Wide valley to the E., with deleib palms. 3¼ miles from
next rest-house there is a steep ascent of 50 feet. Bad going. The
track then crosses greyish soil for a mile and again passes over
ironstone rock.
Rest house, “The Deleib’s”
9
60½
Eight tukls (4 old). Many deleib palms
about. Good water from wells. For the next 3 miles there is thick
bush. The grassy valley of the Khor Abongo is then struck.
Khor Abongo
4
64½
Khor which is 20 yards wide and 10 feet
deep, bridged. The river Jur is now to the W. of the track which
follows its right bank, between the high grass which covers the
valley and an ironstone ridge 30 to 50 feet high, covered with very
thick bush. Wau is seen on the left bank.
East of Wau the track crosses the valley
(1 mile wide) through very high grass. The river Jur here is on the
W. side of the valley, 100 yards wide with banks from 15 to 20 feet
high. On 3rd February, 1904, there was 2 feet 9 inches water in the
ford. Sandy bottom.
Wau
5½
70
By Captain H. D. W. Lloyd,
February, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
There is no obstacle on this route to the
movement of men, mules or donkeys, during the dry season. But a
very little rain would make many of the khors impassable to
animals. The river Ba during the rains would have to be crossed in
boats. There was ample water for 500 men and 300 mules or donkeys.
The route lies chiefly over ironstone rock, with black alluvial
soil in and near the khors.
Tonj River Post
—
—
Leaving the fort the road follows the
left bank of the river Ba; good track.
Khor
3
3
20 yards wide, 5 feet deep, muddy bottom,
if not bridged would be a serious obstacle. Track skirts the
forest.
River Ba
3
6
The actual valley is 1½ miles wide,
alluvial soil covered with grass 6 to 8 feet high, now dry. The
river channel 75 yards wide, 12 feet deep, and has been bank full
of water this year. Water in January 30 yards wide, 20 inches deep,
sandy bottom. No difficulty in ascending banks.
There is now a slight track only. The
route followed the edge of the forest on the right bank of the
river Ba. Good going, but the khors running into the river would be
difficult after rain. Water for drinking obtained from khors.
13th mile
7
13
Route leaves valley of river Ba and
follows the right bank of Khor Sunni. Good going, khor from 50 to
1000 yards from route which followed the edge of the forest. Bush
seldom very thick, but grass troublesome in places.
Pool Dam Lkobo
20½
33½
Route crosses to left bank of Khor Sunni
20 feet deep, 3 yards wide at bottom, 25 yards wide at top; running
water 6 inches deep.
Pool Gutti
2
35½
Large pool in khor, said never to dry up.
Guide was not very sure of name, but place unmistakable. Bare
ironstone running from edge of forest to khor. Running water now
ceases and the only water is in pools.
Route crosses several shallow but wide
khors full of elephant tracks; high grass.
Da Kobi
12
47½
(Called by another guide, Akkuir). Da =
pool in Bongo. Dirty water but quite drinkable.
Pool Dormunga
6½
54
Pool 100 yards long in khor, very good
water. Good shade near; road crosses several ironstone ridges and
some low ground now dry, but would be very swampy in rains.
Pool Higoli
7½
61½
Pool in khor. Good water. Good going but
thick bush.
Pool Kunga
44¾
66¼
Pool in a khor running into Khor Sunni,
80 yards in diameter, good clean water. Said always to contain
water.
Minobolo
4¾
71
Two miles before reaching Minobolo, two
deleib palms are seen and the track crosses a small khor. For 1½
miles this khor contains a succession of pools. Minobolo is the
site of an old slave dealers’ zeriba, 30 feet above khor. Water
said to last all the year.
The route follows the Khor Sunni,
crossing it twice and passing several small pools.
Pool Riggu
8
79
In the midst of many deleib palms, good
water. Much game about. This is the last pool on the Khor
Sunni.
The country now rises slowly until the
route passes between two red ironstone hills (rising 100 feet above
the track) covered with bush. The route then descends and enters
the valley of the Khor Takor which flows S.W. to the river Ba.
Toko
5½
84½
Pool of good water; said to last all the
year.
Da Higi
2½
87
Pool of good water; said to last all the
year. Site of old Bongo village. Route now follows right bank. Good
going.
Ungulu
2¼
89¼
Pool in khor; drying up rapidly in
February. Route crosses to left bank, and a mile on there is a
large grey granite rock 30 feet high, 50 yards in diameter.
Mungola
2¾
93
Pool in khor; said never to dry up. Good
water; some bad going due to elephant tracks.
Dih
3
96
Several large pools which are said never
to dry up. Good shade.
From here to Higola pool there are two
routes, an eastern and a western. The former is the better going
but the latter has more water on it.
WESTERN ROUTE.
Follows the Khor Takor for 2 miles, then
turns S., crosses the Khor Teih at the Pool Ngomala, and half a
mile on enters valley of the Khor Biuku, which flows northwards and
westwards to River Ba; much bush and grass. Three miles from
Ngomala, route crosses khor; rocky ground, bad going. After 7
miles, Angaga, a pool in Khor Biuku, is reached. Water said to be
dry up; much high grass. A mile S., route again crosses the khor
and ascends an ironstone ridge, which it follows for 5 miles; good
going; to Higola 5½ miles, a pool fed by a spring, situated on E.
side of ridge in the Khor Todor.
EASTERN ROUTE.
Route goes nearly S.E. for 2½ miles, then
turns lightly W. of S.
Khor Teih
2½
98½
Now nearly dry. One or two small dirty
pools. Khor 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep, steep banks. Flows W. to
River Ba. A mile and a half on the Khor Todor is seen E. of route
which follows the left bank to Higola. Good going skirting the
bush. Valley of khor full of high grass. The Khor Todor flows
northwards into the Khor Teih.
Higola
5½
107
Bad going for first 2 miles, ascending a
rocky ironstone ridge. Thick bush. Then along the level for 2
miles, when the end of the ridge is reached. There is then a rapid
but easy descent of nearly 200 feet to the Khor Veitatei. Route
followed right bank to the River Ba, but it is better to cross the
khor from 1 to 2 miles before reaching the river.
River Ba
11
118
Forty yards wide and unfordable, with
slight current E. to W.; following the bank for a mile through high
grass and crossing the Khor Veitatei the river bends S. Near a
large Bolo tree. S. of this tree is a good ford. Water 2 feet 6
inches deep. Sandy bottom.
Right bank easy, left bank had to be
ramped. Good shade on right bank. None on left.
Route now nearly due S., through high
grass. Near River Ba for 2 miles. Then crosses a small khor with
running water and ascends a hill to Sheikh Toin’s, the River Ba
being left to the eastwards.
Sheikh Toin
5¼
123¼
Village burnt 11th February. Situated on
top of a grey sandstone hill. Water from pool in Khor Maposho, a
mile S. From this village to Rikta’s there is a good track. Much
bush and high grass.
Khor Maposho
5¾
129
Track again crosses the khor. Two good
pools. Long grass and thick bushes.
Hukwar’s
7
136
Small place. Good pools ¼ mile N.W. Burnt
10th February. Track continues through high grass and bush for 4½
miles to the first houses of Rikta’s village.
Khor Menza
5½
141½
A narrow but deep khor with thickly
wooded banks. Many pools both above and below track.
High grass, with clearings for
cultivation: dura, telibun and maize (very little).
Khor Nabazibi
¾
142¼
A large khor, with thickly wooded banks.
Many pools of good water, both above and below track. Was bridged
by Rikta, but bridge burnt. There must be 7 feet of water in the
khor at times. The width varies from 30 to 60 yards wide, the more
narrow portions being between ironstone rock.
Rikta’s
—
—
The Sheik’s house (burnt 10th February,
1904) was 250 yards from the bridge. The village was scattered
along the higher ground on both banks of the Khor Nabazibi. Except
where cleared for cultivation, the country is covered with
scattered trees and high grass.
By Captain A. B. Bethel, R.A.,
August, 1904.
Water, etc.In the dry season, I
consider that this road would present a good many difficulties in
the way of water supply for troops or animal transport using
it.
Transport.In the wet season, the
road is only fit for carrier transport, as many of the khors are so
full that it would entail swimming the animals across, and carrying
the baggage over by hand; bridging one or two more of the khors
would assist matters a good deal, but the River Bo is too wide for
a bridge to be thrown across it, and I think it quite possible that
these small native-made bridges would be swept away in the deep
khors. A small Berthon boat is indispensable to anyone using this
road in the wet season.
Track and country.The track is a
well marked one the whole way. After leaving the Zeriba of Kutsuk
Ali, the country becomes undulating till Khor Abera is reached, and
there are several ridges, with steep ascents and descents; from
this, the track is fairly flat till it reaches Tembura’s village,
though, S. of Gedi’s village, it runs along the foot of the Undili
Mountains. In the wet season, the track is very much overgrown with
grass and short scrub to the S. of Ali’s Babai; N. of it, the grass
is not so high, nor so thick, but the going is bad, as much of the
track is under water, and it is especially so between Khors
Gullamba and Gumbola.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Wau
—
—
River Wau
4
—
Good ford in dry season, about 2·6 to 3
feet deep.
Sheikh Kwol’s village (Rest
house)
10
14
3 rest houses, well in village, river 2
miles away.
Zeriba Kutsuk Ali
3
17
2 small wells close to Zeriba.
Khor Kossukali (Rest house)
12
29
2 rest houses.
Khor Abera (Rest house)
5
34
2 rest houses, water all the year.
Khor Tela (Rest house)
7
41
2 rest houses.
Khor Borda
9
50
Water said to be in a pool here all the
year.
Khor Nyeka (Rest house)
9
59
2 rest houses.
Khor Gumbala (Rest house)
10
69
2 rest houses, water said to be in pools
all the year.
Khor Gullamba (Rest house)
11
80
1 rest house, deep khor, 5 feet deep in
wet season, water probably all the year. Rest house.
Khor Gomereh
3
83
Khor Deboka and Sheikh Ali’s
Babai (Rest house)
16
99
Deep khor, water all the year, Tukls in
old village still intact. 2 rest houses.
River Bo (Rest house)
12
111
2 rest houses, easily crossed in dry
season; boat necessary in wet season, as it is 80 yards wide. Water
all the year.
Khor Gutti
19
130
Water probably all the year.
Sheikh Wura’s village (Belanda)
(Rest house)
6
136
2 rest houses, water all the year.
Gedi’s village (Rest house)
12
148
1 Tukl and 1 Dahr-El-Tor, water all the
year.
River Duma
19
167
Bridge, water all the year.
Sheikh Bumangedi’s son’s village
6
173
Water all the year.
River Yebbo
6
179
Bridge, water all the year, about 15
yards wide.
Tambura’s enclosure
3
182
Major W. A. Boulnois, April, 1901;
and Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes, April, 1903.
The country.All forest and jungle.
Cultivated patches round Biselli. Country gets gradually more
undulating, and hills and ridges are higher towards Deim Zubeir.
Granite boulders and ironstone intermingled.
Rivers.The Bongo and the Kuru.
Both much the same, nearly dry in dry weather, probably full, and
difficult to cross between May and October. Many khors, which would
be a great obstruction to donkey or even mule traffic.
A waterless stretch for 30 miles from Khor Gitti to the Bongo in
dry weather. There is a well out of use at Khor Gombolo, 11½ miles
west of Khor Gitti, otherwise water is found at no greater distance
than 15 miles interval in pools in the khors.
The track.Is very indistinct in
places.[27] Elephant tracks lead off which help to confuse
it. Bushes and trees constantly intercept.
Natives.Biselli is fairly
populated with Golo and a few Kreich and Bari, originally from Deim
Idris.
Deim Zubeir almost entirely Kreich.
Natives live on barley, roots, and berries of trees, and on
honey a great deal at this time of year (April).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Fort Dessaix-Wau Post
—
—
Track leaves the river nearly due W.;
several khors are crossed: Khor Ganna at 2 miles, Khor Ngoa at 9
miles, Khor Alfell at 10 miles.
Absaka’s new village
12
12
Water from Well. Rakuba and hut for
traveller.
A track crosses the route at 12 miles
from the Jur Village Nuara to iron furnaces 15 miles S.W. and S. At
Absaka’s old village, at 17½ miles there is well water.
Ganna
4½
16½
A village taking its
name from another Khor Ganna is passed. Golo villages to and at
Biselli. Rest Rakuba for travellers. The old zeriba is in ruins—few
trees are left; ½ mile further west the huts and zeribas of
Golo—Sheikh Limbo. Water from Khor Gitti ½ mile N., flowing N.E.,
always good.
Biselli (old zeriba)
9
25½
The track nearly all the way so far is
thoroughly thickly wooded country, much intercepted by shrubs,
bushes, and branches.
Hence track goes slightly S. or W. for 4
miles along right bank of Khor Gitti, passing French wooden bridge
over the khor to Village Gumsi Golo, thence W. across Khor
Gitti.
Khor Gombolo
10
35½
Well giving bad water
in dry season (March to end of May). Rakuba and huts. Dry route
crossing Khor Gombolo and Gamus (native name, Ingataba), much
intercepted by bushes and trees to River Bongo—steep banks; trees
close up to river banks; marsh ½ mile broad, left bank; flowing
N.E. from S. about 30 yards broad from bank to bank. Banks at low
water (14.3.01) about 20 feet high, sandy bottom, always good clear
water in pools. Rakuba and huts. A species of Tetse fly infests the
banks of this river.
River Bongo
20
55½
Thence through forest country—higher
ground—crossing several khors, past Aboko hills at 11 miles, 1 mile
N. of track, whence a view is obtained. Granite ridges about 600
feet high, trees growing up to the summit. Khors Karra and Ganna
flowing towards the Bongo water.
Khor Ganna
13½
69
Water always in Khor Ganna (in well in
dry season). Rakuba and huts.
Several more khors are crossed. Country
getting slightly more undulating. Several granite outcrops and
boulders are passed.
Khor Gongoba
6½
75½
Khor Gongoba, dry in dry season. Three
and a half miles further on, Khor Idris, always water (both have
rakubas and huts).
Khor Raml
12
87½
Khors Raml and Tena
hold water in pools in dry season, and flow S. to Bongo. The former
has rakuba and huts.
Khor Tena
3½
91
Deim Idris
5
96
Well situated on high ground (gives bad
water). Now in ruins. Rakuba and huts. Small trees, jungle, and
wilderness. Palisades of burnt wood poles show the outlines of
Gessi’s fort. The earthworks of a battery and ruins of two houses are
visible. Two or three wells are traced, now tilled up.
Three-quarters of a mile further W. the ruins of Suleiman’s fort is
passed, touching the track, and shortly after Khor Gelaba is
crossed, where once stood houses and a Suk, now wilderness.
Country more undulating, and after
passing over a long ridge, the khors are more numerous, and flow
northwards to Kuru river. Some years nearly all hold pools of
water in the dry season, but they are often dry.
River Kuru
23
119
Steep banks 20 feet high, 30 to 50 yards
from bank to bank, very slight current in stream, 6 feet deep. Good
water. Rakuba and huts.
Very pretty banks with overhanging trees
on both sides.
Khor Mubenga
7½
126½
Always water. Rakuba and huts.
Khor Ghanam (flowing S. to
Kuru)
17½
144
Khor Ghanam. Crossed at the horse-shoe
bend mentioned by Dr. Junker. Banks steep, 15 feet high, 15 yards
from bank to bank, always water in pools. Rakuba and huts.
Remains of Gessi’s entrenchments,
ironstone, 100 yards W. of left bank.
Deim Zubeir
6
150
Track follows right bank of Khor Uiri
running into Khor Ghanam for 1 mile, then rising over a ridge of 4
miles drops down the W. slope, facing a valley with the E. slope of
Deim Zubeir ridge opposite. Open ground—dura fields and the fort in
the front—Khor Ujugu (spring water) is crossed ¼ mile E. of the
Fort of Deim Zubeir.
N.B. No inhabitants between Biselli and Deim
Zubeir.
By Lieutenant Fell, R.N.,
April, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Chak Chak
—
—
Track lies nearly due
S. Very good going along broad road to village of Baraguei, on khor
of same name; thence through straggling village to house of Sheikh
Limliffo (Kreich), 1 mile from river. Thence through forest to
small Shat village, Sheikh Ramadan on Khor Mwelli. Road difficult
to follow owing to numerous elephant roads.
Khor Baraguei
6
6
Sheikh Limliffo (Rest
house)
3
9
Khor Mwelli, Sheikh Ramadan
(Rest house)
20
29
Good water in khor, but not very much of
it (April, 1904).
5
34
From here, track is better defined and
lies through forest to rocky khor. Rain pools in rocks. Small hill
to E.
Khor Kobshum (Rest house)
6½
40½
Good going to Khor Kobshum. Water in
large pool and again in several pools half hour further on, 1 mile
W. of rocky hill with another hill further to the E.
Khor Kobshum (Rest house)
1½
42
From Kobshum, through
forest, to Khor Klippi. Road crosses this khor —no water, but
strikes it again after 1 mile. Water in pool. Thence through
undulating forest country, crossing many khors to Khor Agok, plenty
of water, track difficult to follow owing to many elephant and game
roads. From Khor Agok, road crosses many khors, but none at present
(April 13) holding water.
Khor Klippi
3½
45½
Khor Agok (Rest house)
8
53½
River Chel (Rest house)
8
61½
River 100 yards wide.
W. bank steep and high. Plenty of water in pools above and below
the road; leaving Chel river track passes through slightly more
open country to 2 pools with plenty of water, 1 mile apart.
Pools in forest
2½
64
River Biri (Rest house)
11
75
Thence through thick forest over high
ground, passing small rocky Jebel to E. of track to River Biri.
Plenty of water.
Thence track is never far from bank of
river. Bad going for animals.
River Biri
7
87
Road joins Kossinga road at Biri River, 5
miles from Deim Zubeir.
Deim Zubeir
5
92
By Major W. A. Boulnois, 8th
May, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Deim Zubeir
—
—
A track is followed
N.N.W. down a spur of the ridge to River Biri, which is crossed at
some rocks in a shallow at a sharp bend, between two deep pools.
Stream about 1 mile an hour (23.3.01); granite boulders in the
bed—trees overhanging the banks. Banks 15 feet high, and steep,
except at crossing; 40 yards bank to bank; very pretty scenery.
Thence through forests, free from shrubs. Five and a-half miles on
from the rocky spur Tuambu, a view of Hill Tokingaran about 6 miles
W.N.W. is obtained; the track to Boko, where Zemio has an outpost,
runs close under this hill.
Biri River
5½
5½
Half a mile further the huts of Sheikh
Mattar (Kreich) are passed, and many deleib palms stud the country
side. The district and a hill N.E. about 10 miles are called
Deleib.
Khor Jangwi
8½
14
Khor Jangwi is crossed running E. to Biri
river, a small deep khor about 20 feet broad with pools; a grove of
deleibs marks a good pool and camping site.
Khor Rogoko
4½
18½
Thick forest to pool
Rogoko, where there is a deserted village, thence no track through
forest past Odagombo, where there is always water, running east to
Biri; ruins of village on N. side, and cross Khors Aparipi and
Achon to River Sopo. Thick bushes on the edge of the bank impede
the crossing; 70 to 80 yards broad; granite bed in places. It is
crossed at a regular floor of granite rocks, stretching 200 yards
down the river and damming the stream at low water, thus making a
fine pool above; deep drains and khors running down to the river
from gradually sloping ridges, on either bank.
Khor Odagombo
5½
24
Sopo River
19
43
Kaloka
20
63
Hence E. of N. across
a bend of Sopo river, which is crossed at 12 miles and followed and
recrossed again at the cataract or falls of Kaloka, fine granite
boulders and a deep pool. Shortly after the river is crossed again,
and the regular track from Deim Zubeir is joined at Khor Regaba, a
village of Mandallas on the left bank of Sopo river is passed.
Khor Regaba
11½
74½
Hill Lutu
—
—
Thence Sopo is left
gradually a few miles E., and the Hill Lutu (a steep granite hill
about 500 feet high, shaped like half an egg) is passed at 7 miles.
Thence an open valley across Khor Lutu where there is
always water in pools. Quarter mile further on the village
of Sultan Nasser of Telgona is reached, nestling under the rocks of
Kossinga, three granite peaks from 200 to 400 feet high, with trees
growing up to the summit.
Kossinga
9½
84
Kossinga is a large village with about
300 inhabitants, Mandallas being the Negro portion, but the
majority being a breed half Arab (Baggaras and Jaalin) and half
Mandalla.
Sultan Nasser lives here. The men are
armed with a certain amount of Remington rifles, and a lot of
useless guns of sorts. I saw four or five Lebel rifles—altogether
about 200 rifles, and no doubt the outlying districts and villages
would bring it up to 2,000 rifles. (?)
There is a market; dura semsem, salt,
bamia, beans (ful Sudani or monkeynuts) can be bought, and
occasionally an Arab merchant makes his appearance and sells cloth,
&c., generally coming from Omdurman.
Note.—The regular track was not followed
as the guide elected to try a short route and lost his way in the
forest.
By Major W. A. Boulnois,
May, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kossinga
—
—
Track runs due E.,
passing through a small village of Shat people. At 5 miles, cross
Sopo river at a ford, now dry (30.3.01), to village of Lambe, also
Shat under Sultan Nasser. The Shat tribe is an off-shoot of Shilluk
tribe. The Luju khor joins the Sopo just S. of track. Marshy ground
for ¼ mile from each bank of latter.
Lambe
8
8
Khor Angejok
7½
15½
Thence just S. of E. through forest,
ground slightly undulating, pass well and Khor Angejok where there
is water. When pool dries, well is open. Bad going owing to
elephant tracks across the khor; less than 3 miles further on, the
old Government track from Deim Zubeir to Shakka is crossed, now
scarcely used.
Khor Lashirek
6½
22
Water is always found
in Khor Lashirek in pools, and in a pool ½ mile S. of track in Khor
Babbi; always water. Hence the track runs slightly N. of E., and is
much intercepted by trees and bushes in places for the next 8 or 10
miles, then fairly open across Khors Enniar and Adda Tumia, both
dry (1.4.01), to a well at Khor Ayala, in which there is a little
water. Good track, going scarcely impeded. The well here is only
opened when the pool in khor dries up.
Khor Babbi
5
27
Khor Ayala
25
52
Abuia
16
68
Ironstone surface till Shat village Abuia
is reached. This is in the district of the Dinka chief Chak Chak of
Chamamui.
River Biri or Chel
4
72
Thence to River Biri,
known as Chel here, open low ground for 1 mile before reaching the
river, which is 60 to 100 yards broad, sandy bottom, banks 10 to 15
feet high, very little water (2.4.01), ankle deep at the ford,
which is only 10 feet broad. Then up a gradual slope to high ground
for ¼ mile to house of Sheikh or Sultan Chak Chak (Dinka). A large
village with fine situation on long hill sloping to the bank of the
river. Government post here.
Chamamui
—
—
Khor Alalla
14
86
Track goes from ford slightly E. of S. to
S.E. through much dura, and then E.S.E. past several huts to
Village Dambo at 2 miles and Akot at 4 miles, both inhabited by
Dinkas and Golos to high ground, ironstone surface to Khor Alalla
or Mali where there is always water, 15 yards wide, broad banks 12
feet high and very steep. This khor flows from N. of Deim Idris and
empties into the Chel or Biri.
Half a mile further is the village of
Alalla (Dinkas) subject to Chak Chak.
Well Hadid
7½
93½
Hence track goes S.E.
pass Well Hadid and well in Khor Babbai, where there are some huts
and cultivation, now deserted.
Khor Babbai
4
97½
Khor Kum
15
112½
Thence to Khor and
Well Kum, latter giving very little water (Sparkes says plentiful
and good, and never dry, January, 1903). Good going past ironstone
ridge, Ruku 60 feet high, no view obtainable across Khor Ungu a
tributary of Khor Ajak, which latter is crossed with some
difficulty in the rains, to village of Attah, close to right bank
of Khor Ajak. Golos, Jurs and Dinkas under powerful Dinka chief
Agaka, brother of Chak Chak. The district is called Ajak.
Khor Ajak
17½
130
Khor Atta
2
132
River Bongo
—
—
Thence good track
unimpeded S.E. to S. to the marshes of the Bongo river, with woods
on right bank 3 miles distant. The track skirts the marshes of the
left bank, going along the high ground and fringe of the forest.
Khors Dengmelah and Akweya (running into the river from W.) are
crossed at 5 and 7 miles respectively; and 7 miles further on the
track strikes E. across the marsh, ½ mile to Bongo river, which is
crossed and goes to the village of Lang (Jur) on right bank at the
edge of the forest.
Lang
15
147
Deimgnaui
7
154
Thence southerly along edge of forest and
swamp, across Khor Wartum to Deimgnaui. The old zeriba is now in
ruins.
Many Golo, Bari and Ndogo villages are
passed, Khor Warur (with water being crossed 1 mile S. of
Deimgnaui).
Damuri
13
167
Track goes due S. to
house of Sheikh Kayanga, with a fine zeriba and the British and
Egyptian flags flying at Damuri, past more villages with much dura,
crossing Khors Kambang and Akoli to Bukanda a village of
Baris.
Bukanda
5
172
Khor Gitti
16
188
Thence S.E. through jungle for 12 miles
till the house of Sheikh Salim Bari is passed, then 1 mile to Khor
Gitti, which is crossed 2 miles lower down; 1 mile further S.E. is
the village of Sheikh Ambua Indogo, where there is much dura.
Marhu
7
195
Thence over high
ground—no villages—passing ruins of old zeriba Marhu of which a few
brick foundations only are visible, descending into the Jur and
Dinka village of Nuara, Sheikhs Melong and Mill respectively.
Nuara
9
204
Wau Post
6
210
Thence the track is much intercepted by
bushes in places to Wau Post, crossing Khor Ganna ¾ mile from the
zeriba.
By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kossinga
—
—
Khor Lutu
3
3
Cross Khor Lutu, now dry, but for pools.
Direction S.W. Going good.
8
11
Small pool—reported dry in
March.
River Ragaa
5
16
Good going all way to river, which is
here 100 to 150 yards broad, 15 feet banks—now small stream 2 feet
deep. It later on joins River Boru, and finally, after junction
with it, the Bahr El Arab. J. Dandu, rocky hill about 300 feet
high, lies 2 or 3 miles to S.
Ragaa
10
26
Chief town of Sultan Musa Hamed, the
Faroge chief, well situated on rising ground. River Ragaa flows at
foot. Good going all way from Kossinga over slightly undulating
ground, with occasional rocky excrescences, not big enough to be
called hills, but big enough to notice in this dead flat
country.
Membera
7
33
From Ragaa track lies W.N.W., and is
good. Scattered villages, called Membera. Sheikhs Futu and
Adam.
Khor Rakib El Gamal
8
41
Small well, always gives water, now (17th
Feb.) pool with ample water, but drying up fast.
Khor Ronda
6½
47½
Fair going through bush and scrub,
crossing two dry khors and passing a pool with water 4 miles from
Rakib El Gamal.
Khor Metemma
3
50½
Always water.
River Boru
11
61½
Good going through many Lulu trees to
river and village of Boru, Sheikh Futer. About largest tree yet
seen in Bahr El Ghazal—some sort of acacia—in centre of village,
near Sheikh’s house. River is 1¼ mile from village, very similar to
Ragaa, and formidable obstacle in rains.
11
72½
Fair going, passing through two villages
to pool where there is always water. Now marching almost N. through
very hilly country, gravelly soil and track like a switchback.
Chain of tree-covered hill on W., called Jebel I, and on E. called
Jebel Yarkar.
Jebel I
5½
78
Pool, always water at foot of Jebel
I.
Bashum
12
90
Fair going over up and down country,
occasionally cut by elephant tracks, to village of Sheikh Bashum.
People: Kreich and Faroge, under Sultan Musa. This is N. limit of
Musa’s people. Jebel Umbelanda lies 5 or 6 miles to W.
Khor Dikki
5
95
Track lies through Umbelanda range.
Direction N.N.W. Always water in Khor Dikki.
Khor Monio
6
101
Always water.
River Shaliko
6
107
Always water. Nearly 100 yards across;
shelving banks. Runs into Bahr El Arab. Very pretty spot.
Khor Dimkano
4
111
Track now lies W. of N.W. Always water at
Dimkano, but “fly” very bad indeed.
River Siri
9
120
Sandy bed, 80 to 90 yards wide; banks 10
to 12 feet. Water always obtainable by scratching hole in sand.
Runs into Bahr El Arab.
Khor Bapa
5
125
Rocky khor; always water in pools.
Jebel Paya
6
131
Jebel Paya lies to E. of track; other
hills on all sides. Good going, but much up and down.
River Rikki
4
135
Similar to Siri, but always open water,
and banks very steep. Track now N. of N.W.
Khor Vongo
7
142
Always water.
Kafikingi
8
150
Village of Sultan Ibrahim Murad (Kreich).
200 to 250 huts; scattered, and somewhat dilapidated. Small stream
½ mile from village, always holds water and fish. Last 15 miles
about N.W.
River Adda
10
160
Track now to N.N.E. Good going through
thick wood along main road to Kalaka. River Adda 60 to 80 yards
wide, banks 10 to 12 feet; stream running E., now but little
water.
11
171
Follow Kalaka road for 11 miles, along
valley of Adda, then cross river and strike slightly W. of N.,
leaving all signs of a track, as old Hofrat El Nahas road is
entirely obliterated, and going bad and difficult.
Khor Gugu
2½
173½
Across Adda plain to Khor Gugu, where
always water.
Jebel Teni
7½
181
An old well at foot of jebel, but at
present choked and useless.
Khor Unwolo
8
189
Dry khor. Track now runs N.N.W.
Kafrmoya
6
195
Large pool now (28th Feb.); ample water.
Many rhino about here.
River Umbelacha (Bahr El
Fertit)
4
199
Through sites of long abandoned villages
to River Umbelacha; guides, &c., only know it by this name.
River runs E., but little water at present; but fine stream when
full, 80 to 100 yards broad, 10 to 12 feet banks; bed alternate
rock and sand. Seventy to 80 miles to E., this river joins River
Adda, the two forming Bahr El Arab.
Hofrat El Nahas
1
200
Copper mines of Hofrat El Nahas lie 1
mile to S. of river, consist of number of shallow pits covering ½
mile square. Whole country round absolutely deserted, and no people
have lived here since first rising of Mahdism, when Ibrahim Murad
and his people—the former inhabitants—went to Kafikingi, which is
now nearest village.
By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G.,
March, 1903.
Roads.Roads everywhere fair,
except between River Adda and Hofrat El Nahas, where no track at
all, and in parts between Ragaa and Deim Zubeir which require
clearing of undergrowth and bush. This is now being done.
Game.Game is plentiful near rivers
and khors still holding water. No elephants seen, but they must be
very numerous in rains, from many tracks which cut up roads in
parts.
Trade goods.Cloth and clothing
asked for everywhere. Hard cash taken at Kossinga and Ragaa.
Water.In dry season ample water to
be found at no greater distance apart than 21 miles.
Rivers and khors.In rains the many
rivers and khors would take a lot of time and trouble to cross, and
a Berthon boat would be indispensable.
Camps, &c.Fair camping grounds
found almost everywhere and wood always.
Fly.Fly is bad everywhere, and
would be probably fatal to horses or camels. Strong healthy mules
and donkeys seem to stand it, but weak, sickly and those with bad
sores succumb.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Ragaa
—
—
Track lies slightly
W. of S., good going through thick wood to small khor where always
water.
Khor
13
13
3½
16½
Another small khor where always water;
whole country slightly undulating.
J. Legai
7
23½
Bare rocky mass about 100 feet high to
right of track. Other hills, Tara, Jojeni and Goza, to E. and
S.E.
5½
29
Cross deep narrow khor, now dry, and soon
after enter regular network of ridges of bare black granite called
Mungiat. Track now slightly E. of S.
J. Mungiat
1½
30½
Scattered village, Sheikh Zanga, under
Musa Hamed. For next 4 miles track lies along narrow valley between
ridges of bare granite, crossing Khor Barmindiat, in which always
water, four times.
Shobindi
5½
36
Scattered villages of Sheikh Shobindi,
head Sheikh of all Mungiat district, an old man almost blind, under
Musa Hamed. Sultan Nasser Andel also has people near here.
4½
40½
Khor about ¼ mile to left of track,
always water. Track now lies S.E.; is narrow and impeded by
bushes.
River Koko
12
52½
Narrow river, always water; difficult to
cross even when half full. Runs into Sopo.
1½
54
Small khor, always water.
River Sopo
9
63
Bad going through thick bush, and cross a
stony hill and River Sopo, 50 yards wide, good deal water still and
slight current. Very difficult in rains.
Guji
12
75
Beginning of Kreich villages under Sheikh
Minni Bey, which are scattered over several miles.
River Biri
7
82
Very similar to Sopo.
Deim Zubeir
5
87
Pass two small Kreich villages and arrive
Government Post of Deim Zubeir, well situated on old site, on
rising ground. Khor Ujuku at foot, now almost dry; fair water got
from wells. Reported healthy.
By Lieutenant-Colonel Sparkes,
July, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Poste Arsenal or Kojali
—
—
Cross from left to right bank of Jur
River, which is 150 yards wide, 12 feet deep at banks, and 20 feet
deep in channel, current 4 miles an hour; crossing a matter of some
difficulty, as have only a small Berthon boat and a dug-out; it
takes some hours, but is effected without casualties.
Kana’s village
5½
5½
The going on right bank much better than
on left bank. There is a good track, and grass as a rule not more
than waist high; on other side it was frequently 6 feet or 8 feet
high. Village of Kana-Rewa, a brother of Tembura’s, is well built
and well kept. Kana’s “Mbanga” or private enclosure surrounded by
banana trees. Cross two small khors en route. Village consists of
40 to 50 scattered huts.
Khor
3
8½
Our track now lies to N.E., and we
gradually leave Jur River. Khor is 12 feet wide and 3 feet
deep.
2
10½
Ravine with small khor at bottom.
Khor Sur
7
17½
Twenty feet wide and 5 feet deep, runs
into Jur.
Khor Beilo
½
18
Small khor 2 feet deep.
8½
26½
Marsh, but not bad crossing.
J. Hibi
3
29½
Rocky mass of sort of grey granite, site
of final battle between Nyam Nyams and Bongos, which lasted 6 days,
when latter were utterly defeated.
Khor Kumio
1
30½
Fifteen feet wide, 2 feet to 6 feet deep.
Village of Bongos, slaves of Sheikh Kana, just beyond khor.
Khor
7
37½
Small khor, 10 feet wide, 18 inches
deep.
Ndoruma’s village
2
39½
Village of Ndoruma Rewa, another brother
of Tembura; it is quite new, only having been built within last few
months. Very similar in size, &c., to Kana’s village, and is
the extreme northern outpost of the Nyam Nyams.
2½
42
Marsh 100 yards wide, at present only 6
feet deep; another marsh 200 yards wide, but not yet bad
crossing.
Village
5½
47½
Ndoruma’s old village, abandoned 2 months
ago, huts all still standing and in good order.
Khor
11
58½
Small khor, dry in winter.
Khor
2½
61
Small khor, dry in winter.
Khor Wolo
17
78
Dry in winter.
Khor Kordabella
3½
81½
More a marsh than a khor, said to be
never dry, much cut up by elephant tracks, and have considerable
difficulty with animals in crossing.
Khor Gutong
6½
88
Said to have always water running to N.,
and rather fancy this may be River Mulmul under another name.
Khor Mungara
3
91
Always contains water, more a marsh than
a khor, with muddy holding bottom and cut up by elephant tracks,
100 yards wide, and have to carry loads across as laden animals
fall and stick in mud.
River Tonj
15½
106½
River plain here, some 3 miles wide,
follow left bank, trees up to river edge on right bank. River
almost full, and about 40 yards wide.
15½
122
River here makes great bend to W. and
comes up to edge of trees, the river plain now being on right bank,
but this is only for a short distance, as a rule the plain is on
left bank.
Khor
4
126
Deep khor running
from W. to river; cross by going 1½ miles to N.W.
Tonj Post
3
129
By Captain E. H. Armstrong,
February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Tonj
—
—
Road from Tonj
crosses river close to, but N. of station, and continues slightly
N. of E to forest 3 miles, and on N. along edge of forest 3 miles
more to where river approaches close to it. From there road E. and
N.E. through forest, passing elephant swamp (dry by January) to
village of Sheikh Senug. Rakuba, two wells, 20 feet N. of rakuba,
distance 11 miles. Road from there past villages of Sheikh Bol and
through forest, direction E. to well in Khor Mahok under a
gemmeiza tree.
3
3
3
6
Sheikh Senug
11
17
Wag Abak
21½
38½
Village of Wag Abak, Sheikh Gehak. No
water in between, distance 21½ miles. Water can be brought from
village Paag, N. of wood to spot 4½ miles W. of gemmeiza tree, if
word is sent beforehand. Road continues S.E. across Khor Mahok, wet
in January, passing village of Riang (another Sheikh Gehak), also
village of Rihan.
Gochin
7
45½
Hamada, interpreter,
to village of Gochin, Sheikh Mabiur; two empty forts on W. bank of
river Gell, distance 7 miles. On E. across river, then N.E. through
village of Sheikh Markoj (Panchoi) to village of Sheikh Jok Dau, 6½
miles. Pool of good water on S. of village, and post and rest house
in village. Road continues across village through forest, passing
corner of Khor Toj to village of Sheikh Marnal; wells in village
and pool on E. side, 12 miles. From there road S.E. along edge of
Khor Toj through Fanagai, Sheikh Gran, distance 7 miles, and on 5
miles more to village of Sheikh Ateng, and 1 mile more to Khor
Gurman (or Gulman), where there is a bridge. From there to Khor
Abeir, 9 miles, and from Abeir to Rumbek 9 miles more.
Sheikh Jok Dau
6½
52
Sheikh Marnal
12
64
Khor Gulman
13
77
Khor Abeir
9
86
Rumbek
9
95
By Captain E. H. Armstrong, 11th
February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Rumbek
—
—
From Rumbek, road
starts E. and S.E. for 6 miles to where a well has been dug out on
N. of road, then S., S.E., and S. for 10 miles to well in
Adwolians. Best well at a tobacco garden.
Adwolians
16
16
Good road through burnt villages;
sandy.
R. Naam
6
22
From Adwolian, road
due E. to through village and bit of forest to edge of forest on
valley of Naam river. To river bed, 3 miles, and across plain and
khors to edge of forest on E. 2½ miles more; going very bad, much
cut up by elephants; valley requires causeway and bridging very
badly; grass very high. From Naam, road due E., passing burnt-out
village of Takidur after 3 miles, and dried up khor called river
Laik (same as M’Buri of Feniar) 3 miles further on.
2½
24½
Takidur
3
27½
R. Laik
3
30½
Close by on further
side is Mera of Sheikhs Ateir Marial and Agiong, Agars, latter of
Ayak, and adjoining is village of Galik. A well has been dug in
khor, N. of Mera 5 minutes. Water in lake up to end of December,
then found in pool further N. of that well up to February, perhaps
later. From here road S.E. through Galik, 20 minutes, and turns E.
to village Akot 6 miles distant.
Akot
6
36½
2
38½
Two miles more to far
side of village. Road good, sandy, over high ground; water very far
from surface. From Akot, road due E. to pool 3 miles, which had
water until 15th January, boundary of Atwots and Agars; 2 miles on
to
3
41½
2
43½
Apiot
1
44½
Atwot Mera, and 1
more to village of Apiot and Fort. At Apiot 10 good wells give
water all the year. People are friendly and ready to help, but are
not fond of carrying work. They are more manly and straightforward
than the Agars, and I have hopes that they are not so treacherous
in disposition. They carry bows and arrows as well as spears. From
the fort, road is N.E., through villages of Chediop and Mogar which
join each other, then through forest across deserted village of
Manibin 9 miles on; to pool 3 miles; then through old mudiria with
many small wells which do not require much digging to keep
them open all the year, 3 miles.
Manibin
9½
54
3
57
3
60
2
62
After 2 more miles valley of Lau is
reached, commencing with khor and pool with water all the year. Up
to here road was good, soil very sandy, small belt of forest before
reaching river valley. Onwards the soil is sandy for 2 or 3 miles,
then is composed of the usual black soil of the river valleys.
R. Lau
6
68
From the pool to
first branch of Lau river 6 miles, and 2 more on to second and
larger branch, then 2 more on to camp at edge of forest and village
Sheikh Shrun. River valley very bad, much cut up and almost
impassable, even without Hamla during rains; 7 or 8 khors as well
as 2 branches of river to cross. Requires a good road made across
valley. From Lau, road E., through villages for 3 or 4 miles, then
through forest N.E. to villages and wells of Ajak and
Gour, total 24 miles. Road cut up much by elephants, and in places
grass very high. Village of Ajak, ground very sandy and bad for
marching. From Ajak, similar road N.E. to Shambe, forest all the
way except last 2 miles, total 20 miles.
4
72
Ajak
24
96
Shambe
20
116
Note.—Rivers Naam and Lau flow at about
4 miles an hour in flood, and about 3 miles an hour or less when
flood is over. The Naam is about 10 feet deep in flood, the eastern
bank of Lau 12 and western 10 feet. After rains both rivers fall to
about 2 feet deep, and western branch of Lau is dry from March to
May.
By Captain P. Wood, April,
1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Rumbek
—
—
Khor Ronga
6½
6½
Half mile in width, quite dry by 1st
January, 1904. Good water always obtainable from deep pools in
swamp at S. edge of khor. Very good track.
Large Gemmeiza tree at Sheikh
Keli’s old village
11
17½
Two wells close by. Fair water; good
supply. Track good.
Well in shallow khor on right
edge of track, half mile S. of Jati’s old house
8
25½
Deep well. Indifferent water—thick and
much discoloured from clayey nature of soil.
Sheikh Mornyang’s house in
Zeriba
10
35½
Water obtainable close at hand. Good
track.
Rihan’s house
7½
43
Water obtainable close at hand.
Sheikh Toinye’s
14
57
Water ½ a mile distant.
Darago’s
7
64
On bank of Naam river.
J. Gurshen (Sheikh Mehl’s
village)
5
69
Water from adjacent khor.
S. G. Post at Sheikh Agon’s
9
78
Water from adjacent khor, also obtainable
from Naam river.
M’volo
3
81
On edge of Naam river—right bank—at
rapids, encircled on land side (E.) by perpendicular high granite
rocks.
By Colonel Sparkes, C.M.G.,
March, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
M’volo
3½
—
Site of old Government station on left
bank, no sign of it left. New station now occupied by Government
troops. This is a pretty spot. The river, now a tiny stream of
clear water, falls over a mass of rocks and winds through great
boulders, great rocky ridges line either bank, and many deleib
palms assist in the attractiveness of scene. Swarms of guinea fowl
about here.
Track leaves river and goes E. and passes
through country more bush than wood, numerous small trees 6 to 10
feet high, with light green leaves, called umduti by locals.
Modo Village
2
2
Sheikh Umbo; village burnt by Nyam-Nyam
Sheikh Tembura less than two weeks ago, when he raided whole
country. Track now to N. of E. District Leizi ends and that of
Kremu begins.
Kremu Village and District
1½
3½
One large and three
small wells here, giving ample supply of fair water, said to be dry
before rains begin, but now in large well 4½ feet of water and
diameter of well 7 feet. Track from Kremu fairly well marked, same
sort of country, few more lulu trees. Gentle slopes up and down to
plains, swamps in rains. Two khors which have now ample water (19th
February, 1901), said to be dry in another month, but a permanent
pool called Kulokho reported close by.
Khor Degaga
15
18½
Village (Bufi District begins)
1½
20
Madi village, at present unnamed, being
built to replace one burnt by Nyam-Nyam raiders.
Cross two khors which would cause some
trouble in rains.
Balabbi Village
4½
24½
Madi village, Sheikh Wanga, in Bufi
district.
River Rodi or Yei
4
28½
A very fine river when full, now three or
four separate streams, beautifully clear water 6 to 8 inches deep,
running through sandy bed. Banks 15 to 20 feet high, and 100 to 150
yards apart. River valley as before described, only about ½ mile
wide here. Lion heard at night, but game not very plentiful. Best
trade goods in Gehri, Sofi, Leizi, Kremu and Bufi districts; cloth
and beads, then brass, copper wire, or copper.
Bufi
2
30½
A bad road for 2 miles after crossing
river, then old Government station Bufi, on river edge, right bank.
Earthwork and ditch about 100 yards square all that remains. Track
away from river to S.E. through thick bush.
Namusha District
2
32½
Large dura patch and two fair-sized
villages; now in Namusha district.
3
35½
Another dura patch and village.
Wira District, late Belgian
Post
3½
39
Strike river again at clearing lately
occupied by Belgians. Trees grow to water’s edge on both banks
about here, a pretty spot. Belgians are known to natives as Tuktuk
(Askari) and Kiro as Simsim. No special name for late Belgian post;
it is in Wira district.
Dori Village
3½
42½
Track lies E. of S., cutting off bend of
river, and indifferent going over several dry khors.
Fashitaura
3
45½
Still in Wira district, track been
bending W. of S.
J. Yaira, beginning of Tokuera
District
1½
47
A mass of black rock about 100 feet high
and some 300 yards long, full of caves and used as hiding places
for natives during raids, is about ½ mile from river. Trees still
to water’s edge, and the wide valleys of rivers further N. seem to
have disappeared. Cross several dry khors.
2
49
Many deleib palms near river.
Village
2
51
Small village; track lying S.E.
1
52
Through thick low scrub with no trees for
about 1½ miles.
3
55
Cross dry khor and through mass of black
rocks which crop up now all along track at intervals; country much
more up and down, now no longer dead flat.
Village
2
57
Pass through more scrub.
Jebel Dubbo
3
60
Two high peaks of black rock connected by
ridge, track now to S.W.
Beri-Beri Village District
Tokuera
3
63
Touch river again first time for 14
miles; village about ½ mile from river, now small stream through
rocks, trees to edge both sides.
Amadi
5½
68½
Old Government station, earthwork and
ditch 200 yards square on river bank, good situation, and village
Keini, Sheikh Niari-Paka, about ¼ mile outside work and few huts
inside. Cross several dry khors en route to old station;
country pretty, many elephant tracks. Best trade goods, Tokuera
district, cloth and beads. Leave River Rodi, the track for Kiro
lies first to N.E., skirting round N. side of Jebel Dubbo; going
bad until clear of outlying rocks, then fair villages both on E.
and W. side of Jebel Dubbo, the former lately burnt by Nyam-Nyams
from Makarakaland. Cross two khors running from Jebel to river;
many such, now dry, khors with sandy and well defined banks, lined
with trees run into River Rodi, a feature entirely lacking in
rivers more to N.
Khor
9
77½
Large dry khor running N. and S.; track
still to N. and E.
Mandia
1
78½
Sheikh Dia, large compact village with
quantity dura grown round it, water in well, never dry.
Numali Village
6
84½
Large village, quantity of dura round;
Sheikh Waga-Lanio, intelligent man; ample water from wells, never
dry. Track still to N. of E.; going good, generally bush, few large
trees. One mile to E. after leaving Numali, then N. of E. again,
and village Murra, Sheikh Gureh, more commonly called Bilal. One
small well ½ mile past village, but gives ample water and reported
never dry.
Track from here lies to S. a great deal
and zigzags a lot, but always trending well S. of E. Fine going
through thick bush.
Mudo
10½
95
Sheikh Nier Magura, one well similar to
that of Murra.
Khor
3½
98½
Large khor, now dry, running N. and S.
Track now about S.E.
Khor
6
104½
Another large dry khor running N. and S.,
with sandy bed, track still to S. of E.
Vura Village
1
105½
Sheikh Di-Aniara; now in Kederu district,
people still Madis. Track from here lies to E.
Kederu District, River Tafari
3
108½
Now dry, except for occasional pools;
sandy bed about 70 yards wide, banks 8 feet high, apparently does
not overflow. Natives say water always obtainable by scraping hole
few feet deep in sandy bed. Fine trees line banks. Rhinoceros,
elephant, buffalo, and various antelopes found near, also partridge
and guinea fowl, but latter very wild.
From River Tafari track lies S. of E.,
and about 5 miles from river we cross to S. of 5° 30′ parallel and
proceed through wood, now open and good easy going, now thick, and
bad going, cross a few dried up swamps, and pass three villages
destroyed by fire.
25
133½
Lulu trees appear again in considerable
numbers.
Nyambara District, Metika Village
(small well)
10
143½
Sheikh Volo-Likah of Nyambara tribe (the
Yambara of Felkin and Junker); small newly opened well here, giving
very limited supply of water, just sufficient for half-pint per man
(45 men), but nothing for animals. Up to a few days ago people had
been drinking from khors now dry. Between River Tafari and here
absolutely uninhabited and at this time of the year waterless. A
month ago ample water would be found in birkas and khors. In
Nyambara district people now wretchedly poor and miserable, and
generally bolted at our approach; huts few, small and badly built.
From here track lies first to S.E., then to E. (?) through thick
bush.
Golela Village
3½
147
Sheikh Galenga-Lembu, fine looking
intelligent man; Nyambaras speak quite a different language to
Madis, and appear a low caste of people.
Well (fair supply)
2½
149½
Two and half miles from village, one well
about 20 feet deep, from which about fifteen gallons can be got.
Reported never to fail.
Track slight N. of E., soil getting sandy
barren, much thorn and scrub.
14
163½
Jebel Lado visible about 25 miles to S.
of E. Track again slightly to S. of E. and country still barren and
desolate.
9½
173
An abandoned Belgian post.
Small well
½
173½
Very limited supply of water, about two
gallons obtainable per hour with much difficulty.
Khor
22
195½
Large khor comes in from Bahr El
Jebel.
Track last 20 miles about E. and up khor
country still a wilderness.
Kiro, Belgian Post
3
198½
To N.E. or khor on river edge. A now dry
khor bounds post to N. Post consists of extensive collection of
brick built houses and huts, and has accommodation for several
hundred men. Surrounded by wooden stockade.
Anglo-Egyptian Post
3
201½
To N. of Belgian Post on water’s edge,
stands well above river and surrounded by trees. This post was
abandoned in May, 1901.
N.B.—Distances probably slightly exaggerated, specially from
Amadi, as far from there we generally marched by night on account
of scarcity of water.
There is only one river worth calling so, between Amadi and the
Nile, that is River Tafari, though several dry beds of khors were
crossed, which may be considerable streams in rains. River Tafari
is said to run into Nile S. of Shambe.
By Captain E. H. Armstrong,
February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Rumbek
—
—
6
6
First 1½ hours
E.S.E., same as Shambe road, then ¾ mile S.E. through burnt village
of Adole, and along N. of M’Bure Makwoj, then S.W. through scrubby
trees and low marshy ground to khor with pool and two
wells, 1¼ hours more. From there road S. along E. of khor,
which has bamboo in it, for 1½ hours; cross khor, and after ½ hour
reach Malit, which
is close to khor, and has wells and pools in rains. Malit occupies
a large extent of country, but very few houses in it. Apparently
different portions of the village have their own names, such as
Mabei and Mading.
2
8
4
12
Malit (wells)
8
20
Well
2
22
From there road to Iyen, S.E., cross khor
again, distance 2 miles; plenty of water both in khor and one well.
Iyen joins villages of Ateru and Damadar, which extend from it in
S.S.E. direction. The cattle mera of all these villages is called
Tenit, and much difficulty is experienced in making enquiries about
district, as any of the above names may be used for the district.
The Jurs are close to Malit, on S.W. side. Beyond Mading are
following villages, or parts of villages, in S. direction,
viz.:—Feniar, M’Bure-atit, Lair-achetit, Fanagir, Makur, Panicho,
and Rumbel (?). I have not been to them, but the above is the order
of position from N. to S.
4
26
From Ateru road to
River Naam direction slightly N.E., passing through, after 1 hour,
villages of Paniol and Matiang, both burnt to the ground. Naam
River reached after 3 hours, the forest approaching within 1½ hours
of river. From there road E., across valley to forest on E. side.
River here winds very much, and is close to trees on E. bank. Track
across plain, rough, and in summer is entirely under water.
River Naam
6
32
4
36
5
41
From here southerly
road was taken along edge of forest for ½ hour, then through forest
extending out W. towards river; road good. After another ½ hour
pass through burnt village of Awog. Here road turns slightly
westward on to old Fort Ayak, another 1½ hours. Fort in good
position, overlooking river, which then passes quite close
underneath; level of fort about 20 feet above river. Site seems
very good, but natives say a great deal more rain falls than at
Rumbek. Ditch and parapet still in good order; fort square shaped,
sides about 300 by 400 yards. Road from here starts S.E., after ½
hour S., over red sandstone, with steep descent to river, and along
edge of forest S. (river here bends away to W.) to cattle mera at
edge of forest, which here again juts out in point and is close to
river; distance from Ayak, 2½ hours. Half an hour further back, at
re-entering angle of forest, is road, E. and then S.E., to village
of Awao, 1 hour from river valley. From Billing, in another
direction, S.E. then S., along edge of forest and close to river,
with steep rocky banks, very similar to road ½ hour S. of Ayak.
After 1 hour from village is road to left, to village of Awao, ¼
hour distant. Large village with cattle and sheep mera at S. end.
(Road S., along river, continues close to edge of forest for 13
more miles, to khor where cattle were captured by late Major
Hunter.)
Fort Ayak
4
45
8
53
3
56
1
57
Lam
9
66
From Awao road due
E., over steep rocky hill, and onward over high ground, in places
boggy, to village Lam, 3 hours. Valley S. of road and of Awao grows
much bamboo. Lam is a small village; rain-water pools along road in
summer. Village of Awodi 1 hour further on; large village extending
E. and N. from above road. At N. end zeriba and tobacco plantation;
about ten deep wells, 3 miles more.
3
69
Awodi
3
72
5
77
From here party was
sent out N.E., and found so-called River Laik, then dry; no water
found even by digging, but I fancy the natives know where to find
water. This is the same watercourse as the M’Buri of Feniar, on
Shambe road; it is about 5 miles N.E. of Awodi, and 6 miles further
E. is village of Rumbel; no water found there. Probably the
inhabitants during dry season migrate with their cattle to River
Dok or Lau.
6
83
By Col.-Sergeant Boardman,
March, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Rumbek
—
—
Marched from Rumbek
on 11th February, through Runga (Jurs) S.W., then W.S.W. to wells,
across Khor Abeir. Pretty spot under high trees, several large
mongoose at well. Halted ½ mile further on, country open and
park-like. General direction S.W., country open forest and waste
ground, then up steep hill into forest. Halted for ten minutes at
well.
Khor Abeir
7
7
Sheikh Kali’s
11
18
On to Sheikh Kali’s,
a neat village, 13 houses round a tree, Gemmeiza el Beit. Bamboo
growing all around. Water obtained from wells. Road continues S.W.
and S. for one hour, and S.E. for half an hour, ground sloping S.
across successive belts of bamboo, open ground, and somewhat open
forest; then S. and S.W. over ridge to village of Sheikh Gol, Then
S.W. 1 mile across low ground. At 8 miles, road to Chums, S.W. Road
continues S. along deleib valley for about 11 miles—many deleib
palms, open forest, some large trees—across two small khors. Past
burnt zeriba, Gol; merchant named Kayali on river, after 10 miles.
Ground in deleib plain slopes W. to Khor Gulma. Moved on S. and
S.E., skirting Khor Gulma, then smaller khor on W. of it, and
halted at Sheikh Ding. Then S.W. 2 miles through thin forest and
village, and on slightly S. to village of Sheikh Ri; halted just
beyond in forest. Water about a mile N.E. From here marched S.
through forest, villages, and across three khors; after one hour
dura of Sheikh Marain (Wakil of Ri), and his village (from here
village of Moinyeng about 20 miles N.E.). At first ground sloping
to E., but after village crossed low ridge.
Khor Gulma
13
31
Sheikh Ding (Wakil of Gol)
1
32
Sheikh Ri
5
37
Sheikh Marain
4½
41½
Sheikh Dogbei
13½
55
Continued S. 1 mile,
then W. and S.W. along low ground for one and a half hours, then S.
and S.E. for another one and a half hours; road continues S. for 2½
miles more, crossing low ground. Halted E. of water. In
three places on march low ground must be marshy in rains. Continued
E. for 2 miles, then E. and N.E. for 1 mile along N. of khor,
ground sloping from S. to N. through forest and village, then E.
for 1 mile to dura of Sheikh Dogbei; water found on N. near road,
then S.E. to more dura and few houses, on through village S. to
wells; halted under tree on rising ground. Then S.W. for 1 mile
along edge of forest, and W. for 1½ miles, round N. of kopje, then
S. across low ground; here road continues S, W. and W. for 1½ miles
round rocky hills, along side of forest, and close to (W. of)
another khor, then strikes S., across khor to wells, called village
of Sheikh Kolli, but village deserted long ago. Indifferent water,
but near the surface, and frequented by game.
Sheikh Kolli (deserted village)
5
60
Village of Sheikh Abui
5
65
Continued S.W. for 1
mile, and 2 miles W. and S.W., over high open ground at first, then
to left through forest, on S.W. for ½ mile, passing rocky hill,
right-handed, then W. for 1 mile, passing other rocky hills,
left-handed, which overlook valley to W., S. and E., the highest is
80 to 100 feet above ridge itself; high ground N., and on R. slopes
in wooded ridges to W. and sheer S. Village of Abui N. and W.,
raided by Nyam Nyams. Halted at tobacco plantation. Water in holes
in rocks, plentiful and excellent. From rocky ridge excellent view
to W., showing successive banks of trees running S.E. to N.W., then
S. and N.,. representing lines of khors and rivers, or their
tributaries. Then back to two tukls of Sheikh Abui, and continued
W. and S.W., passing through belt of fine trees on to village
(Khartan) and across khor. From here S. and S.E., passing a patch
of flat rocks through forest, then S. and S.W., up rising ground,
through open forest, and S.W. for 1 mile; W. for 1 mile, and then
S.W. again. Continued W. and S.W.,. over high ground, at first open
forest, then clump of fine trees, gradually to S., scrubby forest
and much burnt. Then S. down to dry khor with high grass, which
apparently runs W. into River Roa or Gell. Water in pools to E. and
W.
R. Roa or Gell
13
78
5
83
Crossed khor S. and then S.W. After 2
miles of burnt and open forest, crossed khor running S.E. and N.W,
and after 4 miles came to belt of high trees, some of the large leaf kind,
here the ground becomes low and covered with high grass on R. Guide
took us round N. side of it, and brought us to river more than two
hours earlier than was expected. Here we found there was no road.
Guide had taken wrong road, had to find way back, S.E. and E.,
through high grass, then along path through forest to S., and then
halted for information. Could get none, went on without hamla and
found spot by river and sent for hamla.
Continued S.W. and then S., along edge of
forest; on the left hand river several times came close, rocky
banks and pretty, plain on R. varying in breadth, according to
whether spurs of high ground and forest run out into it, or whether
joined by flat grassy khors; crossed several small ones on river
bank, and came to a pool in khor; halted for 15 minutes.
Continued across similar ridge of forest burnt in places, then came
to another big pond in khor; direction of march still S.
11
94
Moved along E. of
pond and found the khor which runs from E. to W.; deep channel of
water with broken muddy banks, crossed it a little higher up by
filling in with grass and branches; mules and all crossed easily.
From there road slightly W. of S., across similar ridges, crossing
one broad dry khor, halted on ridge 300 yards from
river; crossed Khor-el-Said and continued across spur of hill
covered with burnt forest for 3 miles; direction S. and slightly W.
of S., then came on khor running S. and S.E.; turned left along it
and came on bend of river; rocky bed with cataract, rocks cut into
long channels by flow of water, banks steep, high grass on far
side. Had to unload animals and pass over everything by hand, river
nearly bridged by rocks, but very uneven. Marched on again, going
W., through high grass till meeting track after ½ mile, then S.
along side of ridge with spurs running down to river, sometimes
small open plain near river. After another mile passed over old
zeriba of Abu Samat (1½ miles after crossing river). On in same
direction, and struck river again near khor, pretty spot; then on
across open low ground to another spur on which we halted. River
runs S.E. from here. Continued S.W.W. into dense forest, partly
burnt, no track; crossed spurs of two ridges with small sandy khors
in valleys.
5
99
5
104
8½
112½
Then marched S.W. along a ridge for one
hour and a quarter; ground here slopes down E., with thick belt of
tress on a hill about 3 miles E., then over deep sandy khor up
rocky hill. Continued S. up steep hill, view all round; high ridges
covered with large trees; after 1 mile went down to valley, crossed
deep rocky khor, little water in pool. Khor going W. to N.E.
Continuing S., crossed valley and camped on high tableland;
water in khor below.
Marched again S., and after quarter of an
hour reached a deep narrow khor; halted and cut away banks to cross
animals; water in pool to E. (left). Continued S., crossed wide
grassy khor after 1 mile going W. to E., then one hour over high
rocky ground with tall grass; thin forest; crossed small khor (W.
to E.), then low ground with tall grass and thick shrubs. Striking
old track of Nyam Nyams, very indistinct, marched S. of W. for 1
mile over rising ground and through thick forest, then S.W.,
passing end of deep gorge which runs E.; lost track and marched
S.W. over rocky ridge, crossed two small sandy khors about 50 yards
apart, running parallel S.W. to N.E. Continued S.W.S., crossed
gorge after 1 mile, then fairly level ground, rocky. Again struck
track and followed it; ground drops to the E. Continued S.W., and
after half hour crossed a wide khor, tall grass, running W. to E.
Two mountains, Angaliri, in Bongo country, can be seen about 40
miles E. of here.
Mount Yara, Khor Mugei
16½
129
Continued S.W. along
rocky ridge, went down to Khor Mugei, water running N.E. to S.W.
This khor is about 12 yards wide with tall grassy plain each side,
and apparently drains hills over which I passed during the day and
runs into River Leizi. Thick forest nearly the whole way. Mount
Yara, a large hump-shaped mountain, covered with trees, about 2
miles across khor S.W.W. Halted here for the night. Marched in the
morning S., along E. side of khor, for half hour through tall grass
and few bushes, then S.S.E. for half hour, ridges to left (E.).
After 4 miles turned W. of S. over ridge, thickly covered with
large trees,
undergrowth burnt, 5½ miles; then down to valley, very open ground
covered with burnt grass and large ant hills, with dry khor in
centre; valley about 1½ miles wide, several large trees. Mts.
Angaliri can be seen from here N.E. Carriers say they are near (60
miles N.E. of) Hmadi. Continuing S. struck path going S.W.,
followed it along valley, crossed khor, dry, and marching through
tall grass came to River Leizi, narrow, high banks, overhung by
trees, dry at ford; crossed and entered village of Sheikh Sango
(slaves of Nyam Nyams), wakil of Sheikh Agadamba, who is under
Sultan Mangi. Here natives bolted; village stands on rise and
fairly open ground. Tribe Homr from Babikr.
River Leizi, Sheikh Sango
11
140
Sheikh Agadamba
10½
150½
Marched again and crossed khor, then over
slight rise; burnt forest of young trees. Met party from Sheikh
Agadamba; crossed khor running W. to E., little water, ground drops
to E., large ridge in distance S. of E., then over slight rise,
small forest, and crossed small khor (W. to E.); then over spur of
hill and came to wells, open ground with young lulu trees.
Continued S.S.W. over steep hill covered with thick forest into
valley, fairly open; crossed khor, little water, over small rise,
another small khor (W. to E.), then through dense forest S.,
crossing rocky khor and, turning E., entered village of Sheikh
Agadamba, tribe Geate, from near Yambio, slaves of Mangi (son of
Yambio); passed through village and camped on Khor Reishinda
beyond, 10½ miles, running S.W. to N.E. into River Leizi (natives
inform me that River Leizi runs into River Merridi (Gell or Roa.))
Sheikh Bangi, son of Mangi, from Kawa village Reisha, two days S.E.
from here, tribe Abakas, came in here and does not seem very
willing to give information. Continued W. through village, houses
scattered in the thick of forest, and one house cannot be seen from
another.
B’bonga Khor Zaza
11
161½
Turning S. crossed Khor Reishinda (S.W.
to N.E.), then over rise, young forest, dense undergrowth, slopes
W. towards khor; ridges in distance (W.). Forest thickens as we
advance, several small open spaces. Continuing S.W., passed old
village of Sheikh Agadamba, M’bagi; met party sent from Mangi;
reached Khor M’bagi, water running from W. and bends S.E. Mount
M’bagi 3 miles E. from here, cone-shaped and rocky mountain, few
trees, about 100-150 feet above ridge. Continuing S., passed foot
W. of Mt. Umbumbamba, oval-shaped and few large trees on crest,
about 150 feet high; then over ridge W. of S. past dura fields,
crossed rocky (granite) ridge W. of E. named Parkpe, and halted on
outskirts of village B’bonga near Khor Zaza, rocky khor running
N.E. to S.W. into River Ibba, little water in rocky pools;
inhabitants of village recently moved E.; ridges of trees to E. and
W.
River Ibba
4
165½
Continued S. and crossed Khor Zaza, on to
ridge, thick forest continuing W. of S.; after half hour ground
slopes E. to khor about 200 yards wide, thick weeds. Path runs
parallel with khor, high ridges the far side(E.). Continued S.W.
over high rocky ridge down to bend of River Ibba, 40 yards wide
here, sandy bottom, winding in S.S.W. direction.
Marched S.W. over ridge and came upon
river again, after crossing open ground in valley. River here bends
N.W.W., banks very steep, about 3 feet deep, and 12 yards wide; a
swing bridge crosses river here from N. bank to a tree on S. bank.
Unloaded and cut away banks to cross, as bridge does not appear
very secure. Crossed and camped on S. side in hollow open plain,
with cliffs about 40 feet high running parallel with and about 300
yards from river. Tall grass which I burnt before camping. Climbed
cliff and obtained following view:—i.e., Mts. M’bagi and
Umbumbamba stand out very clearly N.E., with ridges of trees
running W. to E. and N. to S. River winds towards N.W., with grassy
plain on either bank, skirted on N. bank by forest, S. bank by
cliff and forest. View S.E. obstructed by trees.
Khor Mungongo, Sheikh Tum
7½
173
Marched on E. along foot of cliff for 1
mile, then unloaded and climbed cliffs. Continued S.W. over ridge,
young forest; after 15 minutes an old deserted village of Sheikh
Agadamba. Path to Yango (E.) from here; for half an hour through
village, then down to Khor Bendawari, very marshy, about 200 yards
wide, tall weeds; then along edge of khor S.S.W. for half hour,
ground rising on far side of khor (E.). Khor then bends S.W., and
path turns S. across it and enters forest of large
trees, lulu type,
undergrowth burnt; marched through forest S.W., several open
spaces; then through thin forest and down to W. over fairly open
ground, and crossed Khor Mungongo and camped on far side at 8.45
a.m. near village of Sheikh Tum, Wakil of Mangi tribe Agbea. Went
on alone to village named after Sheikh, found very little water in
well, houses scattered and very thickly populated, so decided to
camp at khor and await messenger. Sheikh Zumio, son of Mangi,
village Mazura between Khors Korsi and Mukongo, near village
(deserted) Penio—tribes Baminda and Abunangi—came in; his district
runs from River Ibba, below Penio, and W. along Benza’s district;
seems very intelligent, and says he is anxious to be friendly to
government.
Marched S.W. up slope of hill, then E.
round E. side of Mts. Bandilia, high rocky mountains covered with
short grass, then down W. of S. and crossed Khor Wure Mangonga;
this khor flows into Khor Yur; fairly open ground at first through
village, then young burnt forest. Continuing S.W. crossed Khor
Tozo, open ground, marshy, then over ridge, bushy country; ground
slopes E. to plain, with thick belt of trees on ridge in distance
(N. to S.).
Village Umbeyur
8
181
Going S. over rising ground, passed Khor
Mapeko with village Byuvo, Headman named Zaniwe, on N. bank.
Continuing S. over rise, crossed Khor Magone, then thin trees for
ten minutes, then through telibun fields to village of Umbeyur,
Headman Bgumbo. A good many banana plants here, and several patches
of date palms en route. Camped in village. Tribes Bagmonda
and Abondu, slaves of Mangi.
Marched on S. through village, over
rising ground fairly open, drops E. and rises to forest. After half
hour crossed small Khor Wureyim. N. of this khor all Nyam Nyams
tribes are called Abakas, also to E. and S.E. of here. Continuing
S.S.W., passed deserted village of Abubunda.
Harimat of Mangi
7
188
Turning S., path runs
parallel with Khor Yur—tribes S. of Khor Yur Abowis—which bends
sharply to W. Crossed and continued S. over rise, bushy, passed old
deserted village of Badigo. Then very marshy ground, crossing Khor
Umbondingani, continues marshy for some distance E., with large
pools of water. Going S. over marsh, crossed Khor Mungani, ground
then rises, valley to W., far bank dotted with houses; harimat of
Mangi. Then passing few houses, then E., S.E., and S. through thin
forest, houses on either side. Ground drops W. Bananas plentiful
en route. Continuing S.S.E. over rise, through thin forest
down steep incline; crossed Khor Mabondi, dry at present, but about
10 feet deep during rains, and 100 yards wide, it ends about 1½
miles to E.; then up incline on far side; passed few tukls, through
thin forest, young trees. Progress slow, having to cut road for
transport, down slope and crossed Khor Mufeu, splendid large pool
of water, excellent quality, houses close by. Then S. for five
minutes and crossed bend of Khor Mufeu, over rise through thick
forest, young trees; then S.E., S., and S.W., through thick belt of
trees, so thick that sun did not penetrate, and was in semi
darkness, down to Khor Masagissa (runs N.W. to Mufeu), and halted
near pool of water. Very open ground near khor to E. and W. Cut
path through belt of trees for hamla, &c. Trees of the lulu
type the whole way. Crossed khor, very marshy ground for ½ mile
beyond, then S.W. over rise, ground drops E., with thick forest in
distance on high ground; passed old village of Abiama, Sheikh
Leguar, this has been a large compact village, some time deserted;
banana, manyok, cloth, and cotton plants growing in wild
confusion.
Khor Masagissa
5
193
Khor Makatapu runs parallel with and to
E. of path bending W., path crossing it near batch of tukls of
Mangi.
Mangi’s Village
4
197
Continuing S.S.W. through thin forest,
trees close on path; cut way for hamla, reach more tukls
(deserted); camped beyond at pools of water, on open ground.
Progress slow owing to thickness of trees on path. A large number
of date palms in Khor Makatapu, and acacia all along banks.
CHAPTER VIII. — 69.—SHEIKH SADIK to HOMRA. — 70.—EL DUEIM to HOMRA. — 71.—HOMRA to EL OBEID viâ BARA. — 72.—EL DUEIM to EL OBEID, viâ HASHABA. — 73.—GEDID to EL DUEIM, viâ UM DEISIS. — 74.—SHAT WELLS to EL OBEID, viâ J. KON. [28] — 75.—SHAWAL to GEDID viâ FACHI SHOYA and EL ALOB, thence viâ DAR EL AHAMDA to TAGALE. — 76.—GOZ ABU GUMA to DAR EL AHAMDA. — 77.—GOZ ABU GUMA to EL OBEID, viâ SHERKEILA AND RAHAD. — 78.—GEDID to EL RAHAD viâ AGEILA. — 79.—KAKA to opposite JEBELEIN, by Left Bank . — 80.—OMDURMAN to EL SAFIA WELLS. — 81.—DEBBA to EL OBEID, viâ WABRI, ELAI, SAFIA and KAGMAR. — 82.—SHEGEIG to EL SHOWA, viâ KAGMAR. — 83.—BARA to KAGMAR. — 84.—EL OBEID to FOGA, viâ MASRUB. — 85.—EL OBEID to FOGA viâ UM SHEMMA, GLEIT, MASRUB AND GURADI. — 86.—ABU AGAGA to BARA. — 87.—FOGA to KAJA (BIR SODERI). — 88.—NAHUD to EL FASHER. — 89.—NAHUD to BUR ISLAM. — 90.—NAHUD to FOGA. — 91.—FOGA to UM BADR. — 92.—BARA to FOGA. — 93.—NAHUD to EL EDDAIYA and MUGLAD. — 94—FOGA to EL EDDAIYA, viâ J. KAJA SERRUG, DAMJAMAD, and KORDOFAN-DARFUR. — 95.—EL OBEID to NAHUD (DIRECT ROAD). — 96.—EL OBEID to NAHUD, viâ ABU ZABBAT. — 97.—EL OBEID to EL EDDAIYA, viâ SUNGIKAI. — 98.—EL OBEID to KERAIA (J. TAGALE), viâ JEBEL DAIER. — 99.—KERAIA to RASHAD, and thence to J. GEDIR. — 100.—KAKA (KARWA) to J. GEDIR. — 101.—EL OBEID to DAR EL JANGE. — 102.—RIVER KIR to FAUWEL. — General Description of BAHR EL ARAB and DAR EL HOMR . — 103.—EL OBEID to SUNGIKAI, viâ EL ATSHAN and EL HAMADI. — 104.—DILLING to EL OBEID, viâ SUNGIKAI, UM DURBAN and UM RAMAD. — 105.—ROUTES IN DAR NUBA—SOUTHERN KORDOFAN.
(KORDOFAN).
There is a good broad track the whole way. Good grazing, but
indifferent shade.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Sheikh Sadik
—
—
A small and very dirty village. One well
120 feet deep. Shade in khor to the south. Tomb visable at a
distance. Good mosque. People own many goats. Dura sometimes
available. Leaving the village the track crosses a khor and leads
over gravel soil across several shallow khors. The country is
fairly open, much samr bush. Telegraph line is on the west.
Wadi Afu
8
8
Is reached soon after crossing the
telegraph line. Much cultivation on the surrounding rising ground.
The gravel is now much mixed with clay which makes the going bad
during rain.
Goz El Leia
15½
23½
Sand commences and continues to Shageig.
The marakh bush first appears.
Bir Khanga
6
29½
Now dry. There is also a large fula. Many
others exist in the neighbourhood. Heavy going in places
(1903).
Shageig
13½
43
Fula and many wells. Water practically
unlimited. Small village. Fair shade but grazing bad in hot
weather. The road now leads to the north end of J. Tius. There is
little shade, but fair grazing.
J. Tius
18
61
About 300 feet high above plain. The road
crosses the sand hill that has collected on the north side. The
road now passes one or two fulas that only contain water in the
rains.
El Homra
16
77
Good rest house. Small Gowama village.
Two good wells 125 feet deep. Fair shade near well. Moderate
grazing, gets indifferent towards end of hot weather owing to the
large number of convoys that pass through.
This is portion of the main route from El Dueim to El Obeid.
There is a well defined track throughout.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Dueim
—
—
Leaving the town in a westerly direction,
the track is at first difficult to pick up. Black soil, which
during the rains becomes very swampy. Bush never bad, but many
khors, which at times hold a great deal of water, have to be
crossed.
Id El Ud
11½
11½
Small Kurtan village, many wells, water
practically unlimited. Fair shade near wells, but during the rains
ground becomes very swampy and mosquitoes are very bad.
Track continues over black soil at first.
Then sand gradually increases and the bush disappears. After 4
miles no shade. Nothing but marakh bush. Slightly undulating
country.
30th mile
30
41½
Telegraph line is struck, and soon after
J. Helba is seen ahead.
Helba
8
49½
Two wells 90 feet deep; good supply of
water. Small Shuweihat village. Little shade near wells, but plenty
½ mile on. The road is on the south side of the telegraph line.
There is a good deal of bush, sayal, heglig, etc.
Throughout this route there is plenty of grazing and firewood.
Water is, however, apt to give out at Homra and Shegeila if more
than 300 camels are watered in one day as may happen at times, but
the wells quickly refill. Wide track the whole way.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Homra
—
—
Small Gowama village. Two good wells 125
feet deep. Good rest house, and fair shade near. Little dura for
sale as a rule. Good track S. of telegraph line. Good shade for
first 13 miles, then nothing but marakh bush, good grazing.
Sakra
21½
21½
Small village S. of road. Well 100 feet
deep on N. side of telegraph line. Water for 100 men. Rest house;
no shade.
Shatib
12½
34
Small village; one well; no shade.
Old Well
5½
39½
In middle of track. Much cultivation near
belonging to Gafala; a Maganin village visible 1½ miles S.
Shegeila
6
45½
Large Gowama village; two good wells 140
feet deep. Can water 200 camels. Rest house. From here there are
two roads to Baharia viâ Wad Abu Suleiman and viâ
Zereiga. The latter is the better.
Viâ ZEREIGA.
Track follows telegraph line. Very little
shade.
Zereiga
5
50½
Two wells 125 feet deep. Small village;
little shade, and bad grazing near wells.
Country open; little shade.
Baharia
13½
64
Two wells 80 feet deep. Rest house. Large
Gowama village. Fair shade near village. Water very plentiful.
Viâ WAD ABU SULEIMAN.
Road goes nearly S. at first; much gum
and sayal bush, thick in places.
Wad Abu Suleiman
9
54½
Small village; one well 90 feet deep.
There is another village with well a mile to the S. on the Um
Semeima-Um Dam road.
Um Semeima
2½
57
Two small villages; each has a well. Road
from Um Dam comes in here. Track leads due W.; marakh bush; no
shade.
Baharia
6½
63½
See above.
The country is now quite open.
Marakh bush; no shade.
Shereim
17
81
A small Gowama village on the N. side of
the road. One well. A mile before reaching it gum, sayal and haraz
bush appear. Road winds a good deal, and bush is thicker to within
1 mile of Bara when cultivation commences.
Bara
5
86
Large village with mosque and small suk.
Good rest house. Wells from 6 to 20 feet deep, water practically
unlimited. Good grazing near.
Leaving the S. end of the town there is a
wide track E. of the telegraph line. Heavy going to 5 miles beyond
Um Sot.
Daragai Well
9
95
One well on road. Fair shade near, but
ground much soiled by camels and cattle.
Um Sot
3
98
One well on road 85 feet deep; good
supply of water. Good shade under large haraz trees near village 3
miles S.E. Next 5 miles heavy going, then road improves.
Fula Faragalla
12½
110½
One hundred yards in diameter, generally
dry by end of October. Good shade and grazing near. J. Kurbag is
seen in front. Road passes to W. of jebel.
Fula Kurbag
9
119½
S.W. of jebel; 100 by 80 yards, usually
dry by mid-October. Good shade.
From here to El Obeid there is no shade.
The track passes through dukhn cultivation. Good going.
El Obeid
5
124½
Main track goes to the town. For the
Mudiria follow the telegraph line when struck. At night be careful
to avoid the wire stays to the poles.
By Captain W. Lloyd, Scot. Rifles
(March, 1900), and Mr. R. E. More (1903).
This is the shortest route between the river and El Obeid. There
is good grazing throughout, though shade is sometimes wanting.
After Hashaba, there are two routes to Um Sedeira, one viâ
Um Dam, the other viâ Abu Areish. The former is the
better, as there is plenty of water at Um Dam.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Dueim
—
—
Leaving the town in a westerly direction
the track goes over black soil which, during the rains, forms a
serious obstacle to transport. Bush never bad, but several khors
have to be crossed, which, at times, hold a good deal of
water.
Id El Ud
11½
11½
Small Kurtan village; many wells, water
practically unlimited. The Agaba is now entered. Track hard to pick
up at first. During the rains it is often necessary to go some way
to the N., as the ground W. of wells is liable to floods.
Mosquitoes are then very bad. No shade.
J. Shwei (Rest house)
24
35½
Rest house. Low isolated hill S. of
track. Country becomes more undulating and bush increases. Good
grazing, but no shade. Well now being dug, but water not yet
reached at 180 feet (September, 1904).
Hashaba El Murad (Rest
house)
27
62½
Maganin village. Three wells 140 feet
deep. Rest house. Dôm palms near village form good land mark. Take
the western road; after leaving the cultivation little but marakh
bush is seen. Good grazing.
Shegela
8½
71
A small Maganin village. No well; water
from Hashaba. Good track; slightly undulating country. Hashab trees
commence and continue to within a few miles of Um Dam. Direction
nearly due W.
Um Dam (Rest house)
23
94
Head Quarters of Khursi District. Rest
house and 3 good wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation all round
and several small villages near. Leaving in a south-westerly
direction, good track; gum and sayal bush. Gowama.
Um Basira
3
97
Small village off road to N.; often
called Fiki Taha; well. Good track; gum and sial bush, thick in
places.
Wad Kamuri
5½
102½
Two villages. One good well. Plenty of
grazing and shade off road to S.
Goz El Hagiz
3
105½
A low sandy ridge running nearly N. and
S. Country now becomes more undulating, and continues so to within
10 miles of El Obeid.
Um Sedeira (Rest house)
3½
109
Three villages, with one good well 80
feet deep; can water 30 camels. Good shade and grazing.
Adara
5
114
One well 80 feet deep; good water. Good
track, but heavy going.
Um Heim
8½
122½
One well 100 feet deep; can water 15
camels. Um Beida, 6 miles S.E., has a similar well.
Um Busha (Rest house)
3
125½
Two wells 120 feet deep. Good shade and
grazing near wells. Many haraz trees. Road now bears S. W. J. Gleit
and J. Kurbag are left to the N. Well marked track all the way.
Some bush, but cultivation for last 5 miles.
El Obeid
33
158½
The following is an alternative
route. There is, however, less water, and the road is much less
frequented.
Hashaba El Murad
—
62½
Leaving in a S.W. direction there is
little bush at first. Good track.
Bagera
25
77½
Three small Gowama villages. One bad well
140 feet deep, not to be depended on. Good track; sayal bush.
Abu Areish
16
93½
Small village. One well 120 feet deep.
Can water 15 camels with difficulty. The road from Taiara to Um Dam
crosses here. Good track over red sandy soil.
Goz El Hagiz
4
97½
Low sandy hill.
Um Shidera
3½
101
As above.
El Obeid
49½
150½
As above.
By Captain W. Lloyd, the Scottish
Rifles, February, 1901, and Colonel the Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E.,
December, 1901.
The whole of this road is over black cotton soil, and is
occasionally impassable during the rains, at which time tracks east
and west leading from one patch of cultivation to another along the
red sandy ridges are more generally used. There is practically no
bush near the road and very little shade.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gedid Wells
—
—
The road goes almost due N. from the
wells. A few small villages are seen west of the road, inhabited
only during the rains.
Selia
25
25
A Gimma village on a hill, belonging to
Sheikh Nur Hussein, and four other Ahamda villages. Thirty wells, 8
feet deep, 1½ miles N.E. Good water, but they soon run dry. There
are roads from here to Fachi Shoya and J. Kon.
Um Deisis
7
32
About 40 wells, 30 feet deep. Plenty of
water, This is a Kurtan village. The gum gardens and cultivation
belong to them, but the Beni Jerar water their cattle here, and
their camping places are frequently seen.
Abu Sela
18
50
A Shanabla village situated on a hill.
The country all round is very open, and firewood scarce. The wells
(not seen) are 2½ miles S.E. of the village. The country now
becomes more desert-like, but during the rains all the ridges are
cultivated. A few miles before reaching Um Bueira many villages are
seen to the east of the road. These belong to Um Bueira.
Um Bueira
11
61
Some 20 very good wells, 28 to 30 feet
deep. The villages and cultivation to the E. of the road belong to
the Mesellemia, to the W. of the road chiefly to the Shanabla.
There is no bush about, and at this time of year (Feb.) very little
grass. Hundreds of sheep and goats water daily.
Shat
2½
63½
A large place with suk and many
merchants. The wells are numerous; about 30 feet deep, and give a
practically unlimited amount of water. No shade and little grass
near wells, as it is eaten down by the cattle, sheep, and goats,
who come to water. Many villages about, Mesellemia and Shanabla,
and in the rains much cultivation. In rains water stands, and
mosquitoes are bad.
Three miles on the bush commences, but is
never very dense and generally grows in patches.
Um Sunta
10
73½
A small pool.
The bush now consists of kittr, heglig,
and talh, but is never an obstacle to transport.
The ground is a good deal cracked and is
at intervals impassable in the rains.
As far as Zereiga, by Colonel the
Hon. M. G. Talbot, R.E., December, 1901; remainder by Captain W.
Lloyd, the Scottish Rifles, March, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Shat Wells
—
—
The road bears nearly S.W., well marked
and nearly straight, crossing several sandy ridges. Easy ascents
and descents. The only “Id” passed is Abu Shareima, where there is
a natural pool of little depth and quite dry. About 1 mile to the
N. is a new Shanabla village.
Goz Um Sibila
5½
5½
Goz Um Sibila is crossed. It does not
seem more remarkable than the other ridges, but the name is well
known.
Zereiga Wells
5½
11
Many wells, 15 to 20 feet deep, good
water. J. Bachi just visible in the evening from highest mound near
wells. Water supply diminishes in summer. Water stands here after
heavy rain, when mosquitoes are very bad.
The country becomes slightly undulating,
good well-marked track, red sand, a few hashab trees about, but
country generally open; little shade.
Amara
28
39
Remains of about 30 old wells. Formerly a
Baza village.
Um Ged
½
39½
Ditto; but remains of more wells. This is
a well-known halting place for convoys from Ageila, as there is a
little shade.
Road divides
13½
53
The southern track goes to Ageila, said
to be “one day”; the other turns due W., crossing the sandy ridge
that has collected N. of J. Kon. There is a good deal of bush
about.
J. Kon
1½
54½
A rocky ridge running nearly N. and S., ¾
mile long, and rising about 300 feet above the plain. A little
water on the mountain, and many old wells on the W. side near the
track. These are said to have formerly given plenty of water.
Hella Kon
1
55½
A small Gowama village. Water from J.
Kon.
Alleiga
3½
59
A small Baza village. No well; water from
Bint Joda.
Id Adam
3
62
Remains of eight old wells; said to have
been 80 feet deep.
Bint Joda Wells
3
65
Twenty wells, 85 feet deep, not much
water in them. Five more being opened. There was formerly much
cultivation about.
The village is ¾ mile to the E. People
are Baza and Gowama, and own many gum gardens.
The country continues slightly
undulating, covered with hashab bush, but the latter is never very
thick near the road.
Um Bilbil
1
66
Old wells. Gowama. Formerly much
cultivation.
Gogran
1
67
Ditto.
Elton
3½
70½
Ditto.
Fula Masuda
1
71½
Thirty yards in diameter, 2 feet deep,
now dry.
Rabeisab Wells
1
72½
Now fallen in.
Rabeisab
2¾
75¼
Gowama village of thirty tukls, water
from Wad Kasim.
Wad Kasim
2½
77¾
Twelve wells open, 70 feet deep. Little
water; it took an hour to fill 12 zigs, working four wells at the
time. The wells and cultivation belong to the Messadab tribe.
Um Butran
1¾
79½
Deserted Gowama village.
Wad Delu
3¼
82¾
Old wells. Gowama. Much cultivation
formerly.
Group of old wells
3½
86¼
About thirty. Guide did not know their
name.
Sayala
7½
93¾
Very small Gowama village. Sheikh Ahmed
Omar (lives at Taiara). Two very bad wells. Signs of former
cultivation now become less, and the hashab trees increase, until
near Taiara the bush is in places thick enough to interfere with
traffic.
Taiara
24½
118¼
A large village, with good wells and
market. Head quarters of a District. Many merchants, who buy gum
with grain and cotton stuffs. It was once a large place, but in
January, 1900, had not more than ten tukls. It is however growing
very rapidly. Sheikh Ahmed Omar, Gowama Homran, and Sheikh Mohammed
El Mahir, Gowama Gemeiia, are the two principal sheikhs.
For the next 18 miles the track, which is
well defined, crosses a series of ridges of red sand. These run
from N. to. S., and, though never very steep, delay trotting camels
and disturb the loads of transport animals. They are Goz Taiara,
immediately W. of the town, Goz Um Ageiga, Goz Benit Ranim, Goz
Multut, Goz Amarik Sinein.
Amarik
6
124¼
Village on side of last named hill. Next
comes Goz Amarik El Fungara and then Goz Bartai.
Bartai
3¼
127½
A small village on the W. of the
last-named hill.
Goz Abd El Azim, Goz Gaabr.
Fula Gaabr
3
130½
There are two natural ponds, one to the
N. and one to the S. of the road. They are usually dry by November.
Goz Boli, at the foot of which is a pool called Um Butab; Goz Um
Hemeira, at the foot of which is a small pond of the same name. Goz
Fiki Gelalat El Din, a mile beyond which is a pool about 35 yards
in diameter called Fula Magbus; dry in October.
Gafil
4½
135
A small village on the east side of the
Goz El Hagiz El Ashgar, which forms the western boundary of the
Gowama country. Water from a bad well, and from Fula Magbus.
The track now enters more level country,
but khors are crossed in many places, and the going is very bad in
the rains.
J. Kao
4
139
Is left to the N. of the road. The hashab
tree becomes rare, but in places the bush is dense though the
actual track is clear enough. A few tebeldis.
J. Deigo
9
148
On the north of the track. There are two
fulas, one S. and one W. Both dry up by November as a rule.
Deigo
1¾
149¾
A small village. Water from the above
fulas and from El Obeid. The road from El Rahad comes in here.
El Obeid
6½
156¼
By Captain H. H. S. Morant, the
Durham L.I., 1901, from Personal Observation as far as Dar El
Ahamda, Remainder from Native Sources (February, 1901).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Shawal
—
—
Is on the right bank,
and nearly directly opposite to H. Sheikh Bordein, a small Sudanese
wood-cutting settlement (1901) on left bank. From the latter a good
track along left bank, through thick bush for first mile or two,
leads to Fachi Shoya, which is a flourishing village and the
residence of Sheikh Gubara, head Sheikh of the Shankhab tribe.
There are also some Greeks here, agents of Khartoum merchants, for
the purchase of gum.
Fachi Shoya
12
12
(From here there is an alternative and
rather shorter route to Gedid viâ Bellali 17 miles, Abu
Aadel 21½ miles, and Menauel 29 miles).
The track still continues within a mile
or less of the river, which is accessible almost anywhere. There
are many Arab encampments along the river, rather more than a mile
inland.
El Hasai
4
16
Shankhab, dry weather
village on river bank. El Alob, a long sandy “Goz” or hill is
passed about half a mile to the E., and a little further on the
villages of the same name are reached. The route to Gedid now leads
W.S.W., and immediately after passing the rain village (about 100
tukls) of El Alob, the numerous sandy ridges so typical of S.E.
Kordofan commence.
El Alob
5½
21½
Galet
9
30½
The name of the wells
(not visited) and hill passed about ¾ mile to the N. of the road.
About ½ a mile before reaching the wells, the rain village of
Salogi, consisting of about 40 tukls, is passed on the top of a
hill. There were eight wells in use (February, 1901); water
apparently plentiful about 12 feet below the surface.
Salogi
2½
33
Gamas
2½
35½
About 30 tukls. Four wells about 18 feet
deep, but only giving a scanty supply of muddy water.
Um Hagar
3½
39
Passed about 1 mile to S. of road. It is
on the main road from Goz Abu Guma to Gedid, which joins in about 1
mile further on. There are four wells about 12 feet deep. Water
fairly plentiful. These are the westernmost Shankhab wells.
Menauel
5
44
Rain village; 20
tukls about ¾ mile N. of track. Wells dry. Main road to Gedid (11
miles) goes direct, but if water is required, must go about 2 miles
W. to Um Beiru where there are about 60 wells 15 feet deep. Water
plentiful, good shade.
Um Beiru
2½
46½
Gedid
9½
56
Lies in a basin surrounded on three sides
by low sandy ridges, on which are permanent villages. There are
also several temporary encampments of Arabs who come to live near
the wells in dry season. In the rains water stands in large pools
in this basin, and in the dry weather there are many wells about 10
feet deep with plenty of water. It is the headquarters of the
Gimma, and is a comparatively large gum centre; there are several
Greek traders living here (February, 1901). Some of the best gum
country in Kordofan lies westwards between here and Ageila. From
here to Dar El Ahamda there are two roads, that viâ Meika
being the longer; but the greatest distance without water is only
17 miles, whereas by the direct road there is no water for nearly
30 miles. Gedid is now (1904) the Head Quarters of a District.
Goz Um Tibeir
1½
57½
The latter road runs
due S. viâ Goz Um Tibeir, where are several villages
watering from Gedid, after which no inhabitants are met, except
perhaps a few gum pickers at Makheita, until Dar El Ahamda is
reached.
Makheita
10
67½
Wad Mahmud
5
72½
There is an ‘id’ here, but the wells are
dry very early in the year. This was the site of Abd El Rahim Abu
Dugal’s deim, from which he raided Dar El Ahamda in the summer of
1899.
Khor Senitai
3½
76
Said to be boundary between the Gimma and
Dar El Ahamda. There is very dense kittr bush about here, though it
does not interfere much with travelling.
Um Wabar
2
78
The country here becomes more open and is
studded with small kurmet bushes.
Um Subagha
8½
86½
Four wells, 20 feet deep, little water.
Road from Goz Abu Guma viâ Id El Gim (9 miles) joins in
here. This is the usual route to Goz Abu Guma taken by people from
Tagale and Southern Kordofan.
Alternative route
—
—
The alternative
route from Gedid viâ Goz El Homara passes at first through
thickish kittr bush, and then through more open country to Meika
(10½ miles). The site of the Khalifa’s deim, defeat, and death
(1899) lies a little to the W. of the direct road to Meika, and is
reached viâ Rahad Asheishat, which contains water for some
time after the rains (in March, 1901, it had still a little very
foul water in it). People are said to collect here during the
rains.
Rahad Asheishat
6½
62½
Um Debreikat
2½
65
The site of the battle is close by on the
E. of the road, and the position of the deim which was alongside
the road is still recognisable from the stumps of the trees cut
down.
There is also a large pool on S. of road,
about 150 yards by 80 yards, and there are the remains of a good
deal of recent dukhn cultivation in the vicinity.
Meika
3
68
Five groups of wells used by the Gimma
and a few of the Selim Baggara. Water plentiful about 12 feet
down.
From here the road runs S. to Goz El
Homara (4 miles), the cultivating ground of the Selim and a few of
the Gimma Arabs, and thence to Id El Gim (17 miles) in Dar El
Ahamda, joining the direct road from Gedid at Um Subagha (portion
Goz El Homara to Id El Gim was not traversed).
Um Subagha
27
95
From here the road passes through very
dense kittr bush, which impedes the rate of travelling
considerably.
Mafri
7
102
A small village; water supply from Id
Tefangerun.
Id Tefangerun
2½
104½
In the Khor Ardeiba, which is said to
originate in the Tagale mountains, and to flow S.E. to the Nile. In
it are nearly all the wells in Dar El Ahamda, none of which
however, except those of El Akaf, can be relied on to contain much
water towards the end of the dry season.
The Khor Ardeiba is not, as a matter of
fact, known by the same name for more than a mile or two, as it
takes the name of each successive district through which it passes.
It has a shallow ill-defined bed, but is traceable by the number of
heglig and other green trees which grow in it.
Dura
3½
108
The road follows the
khor and passes wells at Um Desis and at Dura, a village (no well)
from which J. Um Talha is visible; a track branches off southwards
through very dense kadad bush, and 1¾ miles on joins another track
from Gamelein (1¼ miles), which is the usual starting point for
Tagale, and where there are several wells. The track then leads
S.W. across a cotton soil plain thickly covered with bush, chiefly
talh and kittr, to J. Um Talha, one of the Tagale group of
mountains under Mek Geili Adam. It is inhabited by Nubas, and has
several wells. Seeroute No.
98.
Gamelein
1½
109½
J. Um Talha (Tagale)
50½
160
The distance from Gamelein to Um Talha is
only very roughly estimated, and cannot be relied on.
By Captain H. H. S. Morant,
March, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Goz Abu Guma
—
—
Goz Abu Guma,
properly Zeinuba, is on right bank of White Nile and is the head
quarters of a District. There is a post and telegraph office and a
fair suk. In good years plenty of grain can be bought here. At low
Nile in order to cross to left bank, a branch of the river is
crossed by a ford to two islands, thence there is a ferry to W.
bank, where there are several gum depôts. The road from Dueim
viâ El Alob passes here and follows the river southwards
to Kaka and Kodok. A much used road also leads to Gedid
viâ Um Hagàr (seeRoute No.
9) 20 miles, thence viâ Taiara to El Obeid.
West bank
1½
1½
El Koru
3½
5
The road to Dar El
Ahamda leads S.W. over the usual more or less undulating and open
bush covered country to El Koru; a largish village said to have
wells (not seen). Soon after leaving this a road from the river
coming from N.E. joins in and 3 miles further on another track
branches off S.W. to Um Adda (6 miles) where there are several
wells.
3½
8½
Id Teheima
1¼
9¾
The track followed
led S. to Id Teheima, several fair wells and villages, thence down
a very bare valley to Id Um Zaaf situated in the middle of a
perfectly open level grassy basin, which looks as if it might be
swampy in the rains. Several wells or holes; water plentiful, not
more than 5 feet down.
Id Um Zaaf
6
15¾
Um Zaaf
1¼
17
Goz Um Zaaf with a village on the top of
it. Near the S. end of the goz there is another well, but with
little water. A road runs from here eastwards to the river (12
miles?), and another westwards viâ Waar (8 miles) to Gedid
(24 miles).
Suda
7½
24½
Road followed runs S.W. through a good
deal of kittr and gum bush to Suda, which is a small village
perched on the usual Goz.
There are two lots of wells and water is
comparatively plentiful. Good shade. There are several other
villages near. Here the road from Um Adda, another from Um Hagàr
viâ Waar, a third from Gedid viâ Um Debreikat,
and a fourth from Meika unite. A path also leads S.E. to Jebelein
(25 miles) viâ Andaraba (no water en route).
Um Huta
1½
26
Continuing S. the
road passes a village named Um Huta to the W. (no water), and later
crosses Goz El Shubai, the highest hill in this part of the
country. There is an “id” at its S.E. end, but it had no water
(March, 1901).
Goz El Shubai
5
31
Here a track branches off eastwards to Goz
El Homara, and about 2 miles further on another from El Homara runs
eastwards to Um Gereib.
Um Sir
6
37
At Um Sir (Selim) there were several
wells and plenty of water in March, 1901, but in the same month,
1902, there was said to be very little.
There were also the remains of a good
deal of cultivation about.
A road leads from El Homara viâ
these wells to Jebelein (about 18 miles).
Mit El Ghaneis
1
38
Small cultivation village.
Goz El Gharak
2
40
A slight elevation on which is dukhn
cultivation N. of track.
Rahad Waar
3½
43½
A large natural rain tank, dry soon after
rains, but many Arabs congregate here whilst there is water.
Khor Talh
3½
47
After passing through thick talh bush, a
shallow khor, probably that known on the Gedid Um Subagha road as
Senitai, is passed.
Um Fatma
3
50
A well known belt of thick kittr about a
mile in width, said to be N. boundary of Dar El Ahamda.
After this is passed country is
comparatively open.
Id Heidub
10
60
Several wells; water not very plentiful
(March, 1901).
Id Nagi
3
63
One or two wells, but very little water
(March, 1901). Splendid shade.
El Gedul
3
66
Rather large village (for these parts);
water from Id Nagi.
Soon after leaving El Gedul some very
dense kadad, &c., bush is entered and continues to
Mageikha
2½
68½
A small cultivation village.
Wad El Khot
1½
70
Small village; water from Saneit. Dense
kittr bush which interferes with camels is now traversed.
Saneit
2
72
Small village residence of Sheikh Abdel
Rahman Taher, head Sheikh of Dar El Ahamda. Several wells in a
shallow khor; fairly good supply of water. From here a road leads
S. to El Akaf (4½ miles), good wells, thence viâ Id Nemeid
(wells 11½ miles) to the Nile, probably at Um Asherin, about 20
miles beyond.
Gamelein
2¼
74¼
The road leads up the khor to Gamelein,
described in Route 75, and thence to J.
Tagale.
From a Report by Captain C. H.
Leveson, 18th Hussars, November, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Goz Abu Guma
—
—
Bad landing place—easily improved; also
bad watering place at this season (November) for animals; buckets
necessary. No good grass close. Camel fly bad.
Menauel
24
24
Several pools; best, 50 by 30 yards.
Water good.
Gedid
11
35
Good road. Several pools; water
fair.
Abu Rukba
18
53
Small fula, dirty water, 3 miles W. of
village, would be dry by end of November. Drinking water from
wells. Close cultivated country.
Um Kueika
25
78
No water at Um Shokaba or Um Hagar, so
went on to Um Kueika. Shallow fula, filthy water, more like liquid
manure. Wells not much better. Thousands of water melons are grown
instead.
Sherkeila
20
98
No water at Ageila. Big lake at
Sherkeila—fair water; also good water from wells. Road, before
reaching here, heavy going. Bad place for horses.
Um Ruaba
18
116
No Tebeldi trees, but big fula, 50 yards
by 40. Country more open. Passed big village, named Gogham. 3 miles
short of Um Ruaba. No water at Shamagatta, so marched viâ
Rahad.
Gadadin
6
122
Big village.
Abli
6
128
No village. Half a mile off road, in
thickly wooded khor, were 3 small pools, each 20 yards diameter;
also another smaller pool of clean drinking water.
Um Kheiran
16
144
Road over succession of ridges of deep
red sand, rendering going heavy. After passing Village Eilafun,
country open. Large fula at Um Kheiran, 70 yards wide—good
water.
Umbeil
3
147
Village.
Fula Um Sheikh
4
151
Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3 feet deep.
Good clear water.
Rahad Lake
11
162
Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad, about 3
feet deep—good water. Numbers of mosquitoes and sand flies. Big
village about 2 miles from lake.
Mao
10
172
Tebeldi trees and well. Road from here
onwards much obstructed by trees.
J. Ein
19
101
At foot of rocky hill is a well, said to
be a spring. 60 buckets did not empty it. Forest very thick and
full of deep khors about here.
J. Deigo
11
202
2 small fulas of filthy water hardly
drinkable by horses.
El Obeid
9
211
By Captain W. Lloyd,
December, 1901.
This road is very swampy in the rains.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gedid
—
—
Two good wells. Many Gimma villages near.
They are not occupied during the rains, as there is little
cultivation near. Good shade. Track over cotton soil, thick
bush.
Abu Rukba
17
17
Some old wells. The tomb of the Khalifa’s
father is on a hill a little to the N. of the road. There are a
great many tracks here. Local guide necessary.
Um Afgheim
18
35
Pool and one well. Track now leads over
many sandy ridges. Between the ridges black cotton soil. Bush thick
in places.
Ageila
14
49
Several wells (14) with good supply of
water. The village of Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of the Gowamas
is a mile N. of wells. Good shade. Water stands here in rains and
mosquitoes are very bad. (There is a road from here to Sherkeila,
12 miles). There is now less black soil, and the bush becomes less
thick.
Um Ruaba
24
73
A large fula with wells. The latter are
very bad. Much trouble in watering ten camels. Good shade. The
village is 1½ miles to the N.
Track to Shamagatta and
Taiara
12
85
[To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30
miles].
Country becomes undulating, sandy ridges,
black soil between.
El Eilafun
10
95
A small place with one well, but little
water.
Um Sereiha
1
96
Small village, water from El Eilafun.
These two villages were once large places, now very poor. Good
track.
El Rahad
22
118
Several large villages, much cultivation
and small suk. Lake now full.
N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902. When
dry, wells are dug in bed of the lake.
By Captain H. H. Wilson, March to
April, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kaka Meshra
—
—
A good landing place at low Nile, but
impossible at high. Track from here to opposite Jebel Ahmed Agha
runs in N.E. direction, and lies some way from the river.
Moro
2½
2½
Most northerly Shilluk village, part of
the Kaka district. Country round here is bushy, with certain number
of good trees.
Arab village
¾
3¼
Part of the Kenana tribe, who are to be
found in considerable numbers in the vicinity of Fashoda, Fama,
Atara, and Kaka.
Debba Adaraba
1¾
5
On right of track. Site of old Shilluk
village.
Debba El Asal
¾
5¾
On right of track. There is a very fair
track all along here, passable all the year round, but crossing a
number of shallow khors which would be a serious obstacle in the
rains. After passing El Asal, the bush gives place to fine
park-like land, situated on high sandy ground.
Ferik
2¼
8
Sheep ferik of Baggara Selim Arabs, only
occupied by them during dry season. The whole of the country from
Kaka to Jebelein is the Selim country, over which they roam from
December to May. A number of Hemeida and other Arabs from Kordofan
also come and graze their flocks here.
5¼
13¼
Small Shilluk village on what is an
island in the rains; I was unable to find out the name of it, but
the name of the sheikh is Angwet.
¾
14
Track here crosses two khors which were
dry in April. Forest all along here on left. Wide river foreshore
with khors on right.
2½
16½
A big khor runs into the river from the
west—dry in April. Some very fine big trees about here, some of the
timber being exceptionally long and straight.
Debba Duara El Sogheir
3¾
20¼
Debba on right, high sandy ground and
fine forest.
Debba Duara El Kebir
2¼
22½
Big khor running
alongside of track on right. It is impossible to get to the river
anywhere in this country, except at one or two recognised places,
without struggling over a wide foreshore of half-burnt tangled
grass. Track crosses a khor.
1
23½
Debba Berdan
6
29½
Ferik
1¼
30¾
Sheep ferik of Selim Baggara.
Debba
2
32¾
On left of track. Good level ground and
park-like land; excellent going under foot. Owing to the track
being at a considerable distance from the river, and the khors not
all having water in them, it is advisable to travel about this
country with a guide, as certain spots are known to the Arabs as
camping grounds, where generally a large ardeb tree is to be found
with water close at hand. First sight of the jebel from here.
Debba Berdan
2¼
35
Another debba of this name. Country
bushy.
Debba Aliang
3½
38½
Track now runs
generally between the forest on the left and khor on right. A wide
khor all along here on the right, then a thick belt of trees
between it and the river.
6½
45
2
47
The khor here runs into the river—a
considerable amount of water in it for the last 10 miles.
Meshra Meteima
⅛
47⅛
An excellent meshra at low Nile, and not
at all impossible at high. After having pushed through about 80
yards of reeds, the high sandy bank is reached and access gained to
the inland track, which is excellent all the year round. Jebel
Ahmed Agha opposite. River about 1,000 yards wide here. Following
the ordinary track this is the first time that the river water can
be obtained after leaving Kaka. Selim Baggara ferik about ½ mile
inland here in bush. Track from here northwards runs through a fine
forest for about 6 miles, when it debouches on to wide river
foreshore.
Ferik
6⅜
53½
Sheep ferik of Selim Arabs in bush.
Khor Nagor
2¼
55¾
A khor is crossed here which is an
obstacle to any transport except carriers all the year round,
having a water channel of about 8 feet, and a depth of 5 feet,
choked with grass. This khor bends round northwards and joins the
river just S. of Meshra Alwat (right bank) (which is a name however
but little known to the Arabs, who generally speak of it as the
“Balad Selim Bangan”). The track follows this khor inland, as the
“island,” or ground between it and the river, though dry in the dry
season, is exceedingly bad going for animals and men, owing to
cracks and rank grass.
Ferik
6½
62¼
Track strikes the khor again. A small
ferik under a well-known Selim Arab, Yasin, a little grey-headed
man.
Debba Tebeldia
1½
63¾
Track crosses the khor here. This country
being practically uninhabited—and full of game—is a haunt of lions.
I saw three when marching along the track all within 100 yards of
each other. The Jackson’s Hartebeeste is to be obtained here also.
Track now runs on left side of khor; thick forest all round.
Debba Nabagaia
4¾
68½
High open debba left;
this is the Nabagaia district. Country now changes generally to
bush, with, as a rule, a belt of trees somewhere between the track
and the river.
5
73½
Minadak
1½
75
A fair meshra; opposite Alwat. Selim
ferik about ¾ mile inland in bush. Just inland of the bush there
extends a vast plain covered with thorn, scrub, and grass, and
abounding with game.
Debba Megabr
7½
82½
Left, and a Selim ferik just S. of
it.
Ferik
3
85½
Another Selim ferik; wide khor on right
of track.
1
86½
Khor close to track; big ardeb tree, and
mid-day camp.
1
87½
A branch of the river is visible about
300 yards off on right. Track is now alternately sandy and good and
cracked and very bad; the latter state owing to the number of
shallow khors the track passes over. Country bushy.
Ardeb Aliga
12
99½
Near river bank. Good camping ground, as
there is little shade to be got, except under these (to the Arabs)
well-known ardeb trees.
Ardeb Matemenat
2¾
102¼
Another big ardeb
tree. Shortly after this the track descends on to the foreshore and
continues thus to opposite Renk, where there is a fair meshra in
the dry season only.
Renk
3¾
106
Hasoia
4¾
110¾
Arab encampments. Island of Hasoia here
also. The track winds monotonously through interminable kittr bush,
generally within reach of the river. Selim feriks thick for the
next 17 miles; but as they are only temporary, and change every
year, it is not worth while marking them all down.
Debba El Tor
23¼
134
On left of track.
Um Ashrin
2½
136½
Bush very thick here. Island of Waka
(Bulli) stated to be opposite here. (This was the name given by the
Arabs on this occasion, and probably differs from any other known
name.)
Meshra
4½
141
Meshra used by the Arabs during the dry
season.
El Ardeb
22
163
Meshra, and Selim encampments, opposite
Jebelein, bearings of the two chief peaks of which 114° and 70°
respectively. This is the chief meshra of the Selim people, as it
leads to their villages, which are about 15 miles inland opposite
Jebelein.
Note.—The information re the
track from Renk to the Jebelein is from a Report by El M. A. Said
Eff. Nur El Din, Police Officer, Renk.
By Major N. M. Smyth Bey, V.C.,
Queen’s Bays, November and December, 1901.
Most of country between Omdurman and El Safia is so barren that
the grazing grounds are very limited in area, and the population is
so sparse that beaten tracks are only to be found in the vicinity
of the watering places.
Most of the country is scattered with low samr bush, which, not
being in leaf owing to the scarcity of rain this year, affords
little shade. Dead trees afford an abundant supply of fuel. Many
wells get partly filled up with drift sand, or with mud brought
down by the infiltration of water, which may be quickly cleaned
out. The supply at all wells is dependent on the amount of
rainfall.
N.B.—As there are no well-defined tracks, and the distances have
been measured off the map, they are probably all too short.—H. H.
S. M.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Omdurman
—
—
Leaving the town the route bears a little
S. of W. over hard sandy soil. A little low scattered bush. Jebel
Duieim Serob (?) is left to the S. Sand hills are met. Some samr
bush.
Um Hei
27
27
Old wells.
Um Teital
7
34
Twenty wells in red clay, all dry. Water
is found after ordinary rainfall at 15 feet, but often fails about
February. Shobil wells, 30, all dry, are 3 miles to the N., and Abd
El Mokeit, 20 wells, where water drains in slowly at 12 feet
through red clay, are 6 miles to the N.
The country here belongs to the Walad
Ogba section of the Kababish, who have much cultivation in the
neighbourhood. Abd El Mokeit wells water 500 sheep daily.
The route bears due W. over undulating
country.
Melh El Maagil
21½
55½
A pool in Khor Mogaddam, 100 yards by 10
yards, lasts till January. A mile W. several similar pools exist
after good rainfall. There are some salt licks a mile to the
S.E.
There is now some track in the wadi
bearing S.W. Sayal bush.
Bag Bag
12
67½
Pool in wadi, dry in November. The old
wells fallen in. N. of them are two groups of 15 open wells, half a
mile apart, in the bed of the wadi. Copious water at 15 feet.
The route now bears nearly N.W. over
undulating country, little bush.
Habisa
24
91½
Id El Kebir, 50 wells of good water 15
feet deep. The other wells here are—El Khirwa, 20 wells, 15 feet
deep, good water, and Neimura, 40 wells, depth 25 feet, all dry
November, 1901.
Id El Gurud
5
96½
Due W. and higher up the khor is a group
of 3 wells, dry. One mile W. a group of 15 wells in bed of a sandy
wadi; at a depth of 15 feet copious water. This water is said to
have been first discovered by Arabs finding water holes scratched
in the sand after rain by the apes that exist in the
neighbourhood.
There is now a slight track which bears
W.N.W. as far as J. Khashm El Kelb, which is left to the N., and
then bears W. and W.S.W. over broken ground.
Derota
40½
137
Thirty wells, all dry except one. Eight
feet deep on rock, bed kept open by foxes burrowing in the
sand.
Three miles to the W. the Haraza-Dongola
road is in the Wadi Bitit. The country is undulating and in places
stony, and several wadis are crossed; general direction W.
El Safia (Um Geiti)
35
172
Um Geiti wells. The wells are situated on
the E. side of a plain which is surrounded by hills. The wells are:
(1) Um Geiti, depth 13 feet, good water, considered inexhaustible.
Two hundred more have fallen in. Five hundred camels and oxen are
watered daily. In the driest season thousands of cattle are watered
here. (2) Id El Serajab, 30 wells, not in use, but only need
clearing out to afford a water supply.
By Mr. James Currie, April,
1903.
The route from Debba to El Obeid is little used, even during the
kharif when water is comparatively plentiful. At that season a few
merchants carry dates to El Obeid, perhaps carrying back gum in
exchange. The portion of the route from Debba to Safia is subject
to variations according to the whim of the guide employed, as well
as the season of the year. Some prefer the route Um Belila—El
Amri—Hobagi—Haraza without going to Safia, whilst others during the
dry season travel viâ Wabri, Inderab, Gumr, Gambar,
Habisa, Bagbag, and Kagmar.
The track described below was plainly marked throughout, but,
owing to scarcity of water, would be difficult, at any rate during
the driest season, for a party of over twenty-five camels. Shade
and firewood are plentiful throughout.
In the following report the only places where there was any
water on the road are mentioned.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Debba
—
—
Left Debba at 6 p.m.;
country desert with a good deal of mimosa; went about 11 miles and
stopped at Bir Kufra, no water but guides stated it existed not far
from surface.
Bir Kufra (1)
11
11
Bir Kufra (2)
10
21
Continued due S. at 6
a.m.; mimosa ceased, softish sand and sand hills, stopped at 10
a.m., at another old well, Bir Kufra (2), but guides state water
non-existent at any depth. Resumed at 4 p.m. and entered big khor
running N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m.
Entered Khor Magakha and went on for 4 hours; arrived at Bir Abu
Sayal, three old water holes, no water (April, 1903), stopped there
at 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m., passing on E. of path Bir Gelud,
another old empty water hole. J. Abu Heglig here appears on E. of
path. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at 4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30
a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles before Wabri very stony and barren;
three-stone-lined wells and abundance of water and grazing. A
certain number of Hawawir Arabs watering their flocks, and a few
camels.
Wabri
53
74
Bir Kernak
13
87
Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak. This
well is a bit E. of direct road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10 a.m. Two
stone-lined wells about 12 feet deep with abundance of water.
Hassanai
10
97
Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south-westerly
direction; rode for 3½ hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived at
Hassanai, where there are a few Arab families. There is a hofra
here, where a little water is to be found, but all camels are
watered at Elai or Kernak.
Elai
13
110
Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode up Wadi
Hassanai, crossed over rocky pass and arrived at Elai at 10.10 a.m.
Two stone-lined wells (several disused ones) about 12 feet deep,
but contain little water and take 5 hours to fill, about 4 feet in
diameter, and want cleaning out very badly.
Stayed at Elai during morning. A long
business watering my camels. Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went on
till 7 p.m. Three small hills to E. of track chief land-mark.
Gazelle here very numerous.
Khor Hobagi
—
—
Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30 a.m. W.
of J. Mutmir. Went on 4 hours in evening due S. Off at 5.30 a.m.,
entered Khor Hobagi about 7 a.m. through a very rough agaba. About
9 a.m. passed a hofra which contains water during rains. This is
the so-called well of Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m.
Country very much dried up and very
little grazing. Went on in afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30
p.m.
Safia
85
195
Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12 noon.
Abundant supply of water from many wells. Numerous ril or addra
gazelle, also tracks of wild sheep. Country rocky, much shut in and
heat excessive. Much the hardest part of journey.
Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40 wells, but
not a great deal of water in each. Water about 20 feet from
surface. Many Kababish Arabs and a considerable number of camels,
cattle and sheep; gazelle very numerous.
Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar,
viâ, Haraza hills, where I was told there was water; went
S.E. and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m.
J. Haraza
—
—
Off at 4.30 a.m. and
arrived at J. Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad. To get to these
hills one digresses some 15 miles from direct road to Kagmar, and
strikes the range of hills about the middle. There are two wells,
but one, Bir Shungul, is high up among the hills and is reached by
a very rough track. The second is Bir Sani, 150 feet deep. I think
the digression to these wells was a mistake, and would recommend
the direct road.[29]
Bir Sani
—
—
This range of hills is inhabited by
Nubas, of whom there are said to be some 250. There is certain
amount of cultivation.
Travelled 5.7 in the evening.
Travelled towards Kagmar all day, passing
J. Hadid on W. of path, and towards evening catching sight of J.
Atshan on the E.
Kagmar
81
276
Arrived at Kagmar in the evening, having
passed on E. of track J. Atshan and J. Royan.
Water plentiful from here to El Obeid,
vide Routes 71 and 83.
Bara
48
324
El Obeid
38
362
By Captain W. Lloyd,
November, 1902.
This route is at present but little used, though there is a
well-defined track throughout. It forms part of the old road to
Darfur and is now used by merchants going to Nahud. From El Showa
they go to Um Shidera, and thence, having watered their camels, to
Shallota and Nahud.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Shegeig
—
—
Leaving Zerga wells (where there is a
large fula in the rains), the track is at first hard to pick up
owing to the numerous cattle tracks about. Going nearly due W.,
Fula Naima is first seen and then Fula Bereinku, 5 miles from Zerga
wells. The track then goes along a level ridge to the northern
shoulder of J. Derish. Good going, plenty of shade and
grazing.
Fula Um Sunta
31
31
A small pool on the N. side of the road.
Crossing the ridge, the ground becomes gravelly and in places
stony, for next 6 miles. Kittr bush and a few meika trees then
appear and shade becomes rare. The road crosses Wadi El Kigeira and
Wadi El Luggud, both of which are swampy in the rains; several salt
workings are passed.
F. Shershar
20
51
A small pool. Sayal bush now commences
and is thick in places to near Um Sayala, when the track becomes
difficult to follow.
Um Sayala
7½
58½
A small Jaalin village with one excellent
well ½ mile S. Good shade near village. Leaving the village there
are two tracks, one to Um Heimeira, one to Id Sabil. The latter is
the shorter.
Id Sabil
8
66½
An excellent well 120 feet deep,
belonging to Sheikh Abd El Nebi Masud, a Baghdadi. Two hundred
yards N. of the well is a clump of dom palms which form a good land
mark.
The whole way to Kajmar from here there
is little or no shade. The soil is red sand with plenty of grass
and marakh bush.
Old Um Sayala
5
71½
Now in ruins. From here there is a track
going S.W. to J. Maganus.
Fadlia
6½
78
A small Walad Dagoi village, one good
well. From here there are roads to Abu Tabr and J. Maganus. Leaving
the well, there is at first no track, but J. Atmur is seen in
front.
J. Atmur
6
84
A small quartz rock with fula and good
shade on the S. side. Good track.
Um Guerfa (Hella El Sheikh)
15
99
A large village with two excellent wells,
95 feet deep, at which several hundred sheep and goats water daily;
there are several small hellas near. Leaving the main hella, a good
well is passed 1 mile on, and another 2 miles beyond.
Harais Well
5½
104½
A good well belonging to the Zaghawa
village 1 mile N. of road. From here J. Gahania is seen due W. The
direct road crosses the col between the two most northerly
hills.
Gahania
8½
113
A Zaghawa village on the N. side of
jebel. The wells (one sweet, remainder salt) are 1 mile S. of the
jebel. Thence to J. Kagmar there are many heglig trees, but all
grass is eaten down soon after the rains by the large herds
watered.
Kagmar
6
119
A Zaghawa village. The wells are on the
S. side of the jebel at the bottom of Wadi El Sigai. Plenty of good
shade and grazing in the wadi. Leaving the wells, the track goes
over a bare plain for 4 miles. The country then becomes undulating
for 5 miles. Steep soft sandy hills. Marakh on the hills, sayal in
the bottoms. Bad going. The remainder of the road to Shershar is
over nearly level country. Bush thick in places.
Shershar Wells
16
135
The wells, 40 feet deep, are excellent,
with good shade and grazing. The villages are to the W. Leaving the
wells, the road passes three villages and many salt wells, and then
trends S.W. through slightly undulating country, little shade,
heavy going.
Um Hashim Bakhit
10
145
Two small Ferharana villages with two
wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation. Passing a hella called
Rubshan, much sayal bush is seen.
Wad Medina
6
151
A large village, Sheikh Mohammed Wad
Medina, four good wells and much cultivation.
Um Hashim Simaui
7
158
Good track, over level country. At this
village there is a good well. Sheikh Timsa Simaui, a Hababin Arab.
The track continues in a south-westerly direction to
El Showa
10½
168½
Two villages with a very good well. From
there there are roads, W. to El Gleit or Um Shidera and S. to El
Obeid. The bush in the vicinity consists of marakh and sayal.
Plenty of grazing.
By Captain W. Lloyd, March, 1900;
with Additions in December, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Bara
—
—
Road at first through much ushur bush N.
by E. Slightly undulating country; good track.
El Hadid
15
15
One good well, 60 feet, and small
Faharana village. Track crosses several ridges until a large
well-defined one is crossed called El Khran, then along the base.
Marakh and nabbag bush; little shade.
J. Homra
23
38
Small jebel; on S.W. side there is a
small Dar Hamid village, and two wells 10 feet deep; good water.
Track passes E. of jebel. Open country; little shade.
J. Filleiha
6
44
Low rock jebel, sand much piled up on N.
side. On S. side, a Dar Hamid village and well 10 feet deep. Many
old wells. Dom palms and castor oil plants. Good shade. Track
passes to E. of jebel in Wadi El Sigai, between low ridges. J.
Kagmar seen in front; good track. Some shade and good grazing.
Kagmar
7½
51½
Small Zaghawa village. Many wells 10 to
20 feet deep; water practically unlimited. Many Kababish camps
near, and hundreds of camels water daily. Good grazing in the wadi,
none elsewhere. Onions procurable from garden near wells. Much
cultivation.
By Captain W. Lloyd,
October, 1900.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Obeid
—
—
The road leaves the town in a
north-westerly direction over sandy ground. On reaching the high
ground, J. Meitan and J. Abu Sinun are seen in line. Track good,
bush not very thick. A few bad places in the rains.
The road leads to the S. end of
J. Abu Sinun
22
22
J. Abu Sinun. Here there are two fulas,
both about 100 yards by 50 yards, but shallow and will soon be dry.
There is a deep crack on the S. side of the jebel in a rock, known
to the arabs, which now contains a good deal of water, buckets and
ropes are required. There is now no track. Thick bush. J. Um
Shidera can be seen to the N.W. from the high ground S. of the
jebel.
Hella Shiheita
15½
37½
A small Baza hella; no well. There is now
a good track.
Hella Ushut
3
40½
A small Nimr hella; no wells; track
good.
Um Shidera
10½
51
The wells are in a hollow S.W. of the
jebel, eight good wells open, 30 feet deep, plenty of water, many
old wells. The hella is ¾ mile N.W. People belong to Dar Hamid. The
track now turns nearly N.N.W.
El Gleit
13½
64½
A small hella, Dar Hamid. The wells are
in a hollow ¾ mile N., at the base of the jebel. Ten wells open, 25
feet deep; good water, but not very plentiful; many old ones about.
There is a road from here to El Sheg. The track now goes N. and N.
by W. for 11 miles, and then W. over hard red sand.
Masrub
15
79½
A small hella, Dar Hamid, just
built.
Masrub Wells
4½
84
The track goes N. to the wells; two good
wells, 5 feet in diameter, 30 feet deep; eight old ones near.
There is now no track. March N.W. for 6
miles, and then W. through level country, with little bush over red
sandy soil. At the 14th mile a ridge (running N. and S.) 50 or 60
feet high is ascended. There is now a good track (J. Um Hashas is
N.N.E.) over undulating ground. Two miles beyond the ridge the road
turns S.W.
J. Idris
35
119
A hill 100 feet high; 1½ miles from N. to
S., the track goes over the col between two peaks.
Bur Islam
15½
134½
Eight fulas 20 to 30 yards in diameter,
and 4 or 5 feet deep; water reported to last three months, then
wells are dug a few feet deep, but water never lasts until the
rains. Several Hamar hellas near. Bur Islam is a low lying place,
swampy in the rains. “Bur” means uncultivated.
There is no track, the direction is
nearly W. and W.S.W., through bush for 31 miles, when a good track
is struck.
Um Sayala
35
169½
A small Hamar village; no well; tebeldi
trees. People get water from near J. Bishara Taib. Good track N.W.,
past a fula now nearly dry, 100 yards by 80 yards. There are many
old wells.
J. Bishara Taib
4
173½
The track goes over a col, N. of the
highest peak, through some old stone walls, said to have been Fung
fortifications. Good track.
Hella Ibrahim
1½
175
Small Hamar hella, water from Foga. Good
track.
Foga
1½
176½
Foga wells; these wells consist really of
a series of fulas, 30 to 40 feet in diameter; there are over 30 in
a depression. When the water gives out the people dig wells in the
bottom, and these supply water for the rest of the year.
The only ruins of the old town I could
find, were two small houses said to have been the telegraph office
and magazine. The old telegraph line cannot be traced. Vide R.’s
85 and 87.
N.B.—The whole of this road is said to be passable to camels in
the rains, but there would probably be a good deal of difficulty 8
miles from El Obeid, near Abu Sinun, and near Bur Islam.
By Captain B. C. Carter,
Lancashire Fusiliers, March, 1902.
This route is longer than Route 84, but
there is more water.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
—
—
The track is
difficult to pick up in leaving El Obeid, but fairly good
afterwards. Country slightly rolling and open. Soil light sand, and
good going. Grazing good. Fairly grassed. At Um Shemma three wells,
broken; 100 to 120 feet deep. Seem to water a good many cattle.
Wells 3 miles beyond village.
Um Shemma
32
32
El Sheg or Gebir
19
51
No track at first over rolling country,
fairly open. Marakh bushes and talh. Seven miles from wells, a
broad track is cut running to El Sheg or Gebir. Two or three
scattered villages with cultivation. Good water supply from the
wells 160 feet deep. Seem to water a lot of goats and sheep.
El Gleit
17
68
I believe there is a good track all the
way to El Gleit[30], but my guide lost his way. Country dips
down and becomes rather close thornbush to within about 6 miles of
El Gleit, when it opens again. Scattered villages and cultivation.
Many wells in a khor, some salt. Water supply permanent but scanty;
should water twenty camels. Good view of surrounding country from
the jebel which seems to be called Angag or Gleit.
Masrub Wells
18
86
Broad track to Masrub through open
country, little grass, talh, hashab and heglig; two small villages.
Wells in khor, three in number, 11 feet. Water supply scanty. It
took 3 hours to water nine camels. No grazing this year. From here
there is no water till Guradi.
Guradi or Abu Agaga
47
133
No track. First point is J. Um Has Has.
Rolling open country. A lot of heglig trees near the jebel. J.
Katul and Kaja visible all the way. Passing Wadi Melowa the country
rises gently. Two paths are crossed. The first comes from J. Subari
where the people get salt. The second goes from Katul to Nahud. No
water save in tebeldi trees from Um Has Has, J. Selatia.
From this ridge the two small jebels of Guradi, behind which lie the wells are
visible. Below the ridge is a shallow depression about 2 miles
across which becomes a fula in the rains and should hold a lot of
water. Country all much the same open and rolling in parts. Light
sandy soil. About a dozen wells lie close together 20 feet deep.
Water comes slowly. Might water a company of Camel Corps if wells
were seized over night, but ordinarily not more than 15 or 20
camels. Grazing poor. Tracks lead to Kaja and Hofra. Latter village
has no water. Bir Soderi water plentiful.
Foga
70
203
From Guradi to Foga no water. Country
rolling open steppe. Very heavy going for about 8 miles before
reaching track between Hofra and Foga. This line is evidently
shorter and better than the old road. No track at first but
steering easy as J. Nagut is always visible. Track when reached is
broad and well worn. From J. Sheikh El Rifa going becomes much
easier, nearly all shok is avoided by this route. At Foga many
wells, but water scarce after January. Vide R.’s 84 and 87.
By Captain J. R. O’Connell,
January, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Abu Agaga
—
—
Marching due E., after 6 miles, pass J.
Selatia. No track, bare plain; then march a little E. of S. on J.
Um Has Has.
J. Um Has Has
27
27
After passing the jebel, turn due S.
through thick bush.
Masrub
14
41
A small village. Two wells, 20 feet deep,
good water. Ten and a half hours from Abu Agaga. Leaving Masrub and
marching due E., after 15 miles, one passes south of Jebel Muaiga
to
Megeinis
24
65
Megeinis, a village. No water, people use
melons instead. About 1½ miles north of the village are two small
hills. Five and a half hours from Masrub; no track.
Leaving a track leads due E. through
thick bush.
Um Daioka
15
80
A village of Arafia Arabs. Wells 1 mile
N. of village called Lowai; 100 feet deep, plenty of water, but not
good. Three and a half hours from Megeinis. Track now goes
N.E.
Rubshan
9
89
Village. Water good. Track turns S.E.
through thick bush.
Marra
8
97
Village of Arafia Arabs. Shiekh, Ahmed
Omar. Water not good. Track goes N.E.
Khar Tauil
11
108
Good water in plenty near surface:
gardens, old fig and lime trees; a few vines. A few Danagla live
here. Six and a half hours from Um Daioka.
Bara
10
118
A broad track goes due E. over high
ridges of red sand to Bara. No trees. Two and a half hours from
Khor Tauil.
By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O.,
December, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Foga
—
—
There are no people actually living on
the site of the old Mamuria, but there are several Hamar hellas
close by. Foga is a good military position as there are several
small sand hills which command the surrounding country, which used
to be open, but is now more or less covered with bush of recent
growth. There are the remains of hundreds of old wells which can be
opened with a little labour, and water got at from 50 feet to 90
feet. People say that in the old days water was obtained close to
the surface, but that is not so now; I fancy it was rain-water. In
the dry weather the people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles) get water
from Foga. The old road between Foga and Kaja is quite “dead,” but
there is a good road between Kaja Serrug and Kaja.
J. Abu Dugeia
16
16
From Foga you travel N.N.E. about 16
miles with no track until you strike the road from Kaja Serrug,
near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all through undulating sandy country
covered with bush; very good grazing ground for camels.
J. Esmein
4
20
A small rocky hill on right of track,
after this road dips into valley; soil clay, ground flat, thick
bush.
8
28
Small rocky range of hills on left of
road runs parallel with it for 2 miles; country fairly open and
undulating.
Khor Neilut Um Kasus
5
33
After this, country becomes more open and
intersected with small khors which are thickly wooded; ground sandy
and a good lot of stones and rock.
Khor Gelti
11
44
Rather broken ground; road good, thick
bush; direction changes here E.N.E.
Um Gelti
4
48
This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk in
bottom of dry basin, very little water and bad.
2
50
Here the bush country ceases and track
leads E.N.E. and E. over sand dunes, very heavy for camels; very
few trees or shade, but lots of grazing, until J. Bakalai is
reached.
J. Bakalai
21
71
The road passes N. side of J. Bakalai and
runs nearly E. to Kuku. Um Abu Agaga is 6 miles S.S.W. of
J. Bakalai—a very indistinct track leading to it—but it can be
recognised by groups of small hills (rocks): well is near the
furthest one. This is a good well and has water all the year, but
would not water more than nine camels at a time.
Kuku
19
90
Kuku is a village (two villages) of
blacks on the northern side of J. Kuku. These people have a lot of
land under cultivation, but this year all their crops failed. They
have no wells but a good supply of water in tanks on the mountains.
These tanks are more or less natural but have been widened and
improved by manual labour, and very large rocks must have been
removed at some time to make them; the people now know nothing
about how they were originally made or have they any tools to do
like work now. All the Kaja district is covered with the remains of
old villages: it must have been at one time very thickly
populated.
Kaja Soderi
7
97
Is 7 miles off to the E.; road runs along
N. side of mountains for 4 miles, then crosses, and the wells are
on the S. side. Here there is a plentiful supply of water: wells
from 18 feet to 30 feet. During the kharif there is a large lake
here and the wells are sunk annually in its bed.
The whole country between Foga and Kaja
is very suitable for camels and the Arabs graze thousands there
during the rainy season and until the fulas dry up.
As far as Dam Jamad by Captain B.
C. Carter, thence from Native Sources.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Nahud
—
—
See routes 19 and
30. Nahud is about 310 miles from El
Dueim.
Wad Bokhari
2
2
Large Gowama village. Wide track, sandy
soil. No thick bush.
Wad Shukab
6
8
Small Hamar village. Water from Nahud and
melons.
Daglos
10
18
Small Hamar village. A few tebeldis.
Baruda
4½
22½
Ditto.
Track now crosses several sandy
ridges.
Wad Banda
14½
37
Large Hamar village. Many tebeldi trees.
People sell water to travellers. The price varies from 10 burmas
for 1 piastre to 10 piastres for 1 burma (burma equals a large
stable bucket). In some places the track now becomes heavy owing to
soft sand.
Sheraya
10
47
⎫
⎪
⎪
⎬
⎪
⎪
⎭
All small places. Here the sand
hills open out at intervals into circular flats which are
cultivated. The people go to Um Shanga when the water supply from
the melons and tebeldis is exhausted. Country fairly open and going
good.
Um Karra
4½
51½
Daira
2½
54
Hagera
1
55
Kajana
2
57
Dam Jamad
16
73
Small Hamar hella on the frontier. There
are 3 other hellas near. Water from tebeldis.
Darfur is now entered.
El Ogud
24
97
Three wells about 100 feet deep; water
plentiful. Inhabitants are Fors.
Jebel El Hella
10
107
Two wells nearly 200 feet deep; water
plentiful. A detachment of three companies of Ali Dinar’s army is
quartered here.
A road from Omdurman viâ Kaja
joins here.
Burush
13
120
Small Berti village. Four wells about 100
feet deep; plenty of water.
Um Kadada
15
135
One large well about 110 feet deep, or
more, but 20 feet of water at the bottom. This depth of water is
said to be constant.
Abiad
25
160
A Geleidat village. Four wells about 90
feet deep; water plentiful.
Ergud
30
190
Many wells, water plentiful.
Fashar
30
220
Two wells 150 feet deep; water plentiful
in rainy season.
By road and river, therefore, El Fasher
is about 670 miles from Khartoum. Between El Obeid and El Ogud, the
first wells in Darfur, water is very scarce in the dry season.
By Captain C. H. Townsend, 18th to
25th December, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Nahud
—
—
The track leaves Nahud in a northerly
direction, very soon turning N.N.E. The country is fairly wooded
and flat, and covered with long grass in most places.
Abu Marega
12½
12½
Road still running N.N.E., passes through
this village. It is inhabited by the Hamar tribe and is fair sized.
Water from tebeldis but the supply is limited, melons fairly
plentiful.
Ahmed Hamdan
29½
42
Leaving Abu Marega the track winds about,
but its general direction is N.N.E. by N. Country rather undulating
and fairly wooded. About 4 miles before reaching Ahmed Hamdan, one
leaves the main track, which runs N.E. to Homedo, and branches off
N.E., passing through wooded and undulating country.
Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar village
belonging to Ahmed Salam, the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water from
tebeldis, which are few in number; good supply of small
melons.
Wad Kitna
6
48
From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W.,
country hilly and wooded. Wad Kitna, a very small Hamar village
belonging to Ahmed Salam. From here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12
miles W.
(Returning I did not touch at this place
or Ahmed Hamdan, as they are off the main road.)
Homedo
3
51
Between Wad Kitna and this the track
gradually works round N. again and joins the main track close to
this village. The Country is wooded but less hilly. Homedo is a
small village of Hamar people. Water from tebeldis, supply
scanty.
Id?
2
53
Track runs N. slightly E., and is well
defined. This is a small Hamar village.
Wad Bakhit
17
70
Road runs N. slightly E., through fairly
wooded and slightly undulating country, passing two small Hamar
villages, Mekin and Wad El Beleb, both Hamar, belonging to Abdel
Rahim Bey Abu Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized Hamar village
under Sheikh Ibrahim Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal. There is a
very good supply of tebeldi water here.
Bur Islam
19
89
Path runs N.N.E., country wooded and
undulating, 4 miles from Wad Bakhit one passes a small Hamar
village, Adam Ahmed, belonging to Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam also
belongs, the Sheikh at the latter place being Ahmed El Kagauri.
From here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are wells close to this village,
but the supply of water is limited, owing to the bottom of the
wells being rocky, and there are no implements to cut through
it.
By Captain W. Lloyd, October,
1900; and Major E. B. Wilkinson, December, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Nahud
—
—
The whole of the road runs through the
Hamar country.
Bokari
4
4
Leaving the suk in a north-westerly
direction the track runs through the Gowama village named
Bokari.
Jebel El Kurma
4¼
8¼
Two hills W. of track; to the E. of the
northernmost hill is the village of Shekaba, 80 huts.
Hella Wad Munfarih
2½
10¾
A small Hamar
village, 30 to 40 huts. Track continues in same direction till the
Hamar village of Darglos is reached. The country between Nahud and
this village is open bush with some good trees for timber, but most
of the bush consists of gnarled and twisted ebony bushes of no
value. From here track trends more to W. till village Bakoda is
reached. Range of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E. of latter
village.
Darglos
6¾
17½
Bakoda
6½
24
El Gubba
10½
34½
Track now runs N. to Hella El Gubba with
Jebel Selako to E., and on to
Kinneir
2¼
36¾
Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.
Gemania
1½
38¼
Hella Gemania, 20 huts.
Abu Rasein
3
41¼
Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.
Hamdan Tumbel
5½
46½
Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan Tumbel,
12 huts.
Gabra
7
53½
Track runs N. to
Hella Gabra (no wells exist), and Hella Zarzur, when track runs
N.W. until Hella Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to W. Two wells
giving a fair amount of water, and many hellas draw their supply
from here.
Zarzur
2½
56
Um Bel
4½
60½
J. Um Bel
1½
62
Galusa
—
—
Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa, 20
huts, and then on to
All villages
between Nahud and Hamdan Tumbel procure their water from tebeldi
trees. At Gabra and Zarzur water is procured from Um Bel. There is
a certain amount of dukhn and melon cultivation near each village,
but no other supplies excepting a few chickens.
No water between Nahud and Foga for any party marching, and not
more than ten camels could be watered at Um Bel without depriving
the inhabitants of their daily supply. This year (1901) owing to
the drought there is no crop of water melons.
Country generally undulating and covered thick bush. Good
track.
By Major E. B. Wilkinson,
December, 1901.
Foga.—¾ mile S.W. of the hill, now turned into a
defensive post, are the wells. There are at present (1901) nine
wells giving water, and the Arabs of the Hamar and Kaja tribes are
opening more. I have taken accurate measurements of depths of
wells, and the depth varies from 50 to 80 feet below the surface.
Water is only found in very small quantities at present, no well
being able to water more than 30 camels per diem.
In the rains the Arabs dig, and have dug for many years, shallow
hollows which fill up and last them through the winter sufficient
to water their flocks; but this year, owing to very scanty
rainfall, these hollows are all dry.[31]
There are many villages in the neighbourhood, consisting of ten
to fifty huts. Dukhn is cultivated, and the Hamar Arabs also keep
many ostriches, which at this time of year are all plucked quite
bare. The feathers are taken to Nahud, where there is a good market
for them.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Foga
—
—
Leaving Foga, track
bears N. to Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of about thirty huts
(Hamar Arabs), and then track bears N.W. through bush on Jebel El
Rimr. Good going through country falling for 3½ miles, when a khor
is crossed; direction of drainage, N.E.
Wad Guibara
1½
1½
Jebel El Rimr
5½
7
Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is a range
of hills running from S.W. to N.E.
Um Goz
6
13½
Track still continues through bush N.W.
to Hella Um Goz, which consisted of a village of not more than
fifteen huts, but which has recently been burnt by the Furs sent by
Sultan Ali Dinar to punish the inhabitants, who are Kajawis. From
here an excellent view of the country can be obtained for many
miles.
Jebel Zeinat Rowaina
1½
15
Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track leads on
to Jebel Zeinat Rowaina, but at 1½ miles I went through the bush.
No track on Jebel Taradid, over country which is intersected with
many small water channels (now all dry), but which in the rains
would be impassable for animals. Surface, cotton soil with rank dry
grass. Flow of water, N.N.E.
Jebel Taradid
7
22
Jebel Taradid, track runs N. through very
broken country, ranges of low hills to W. and E. for miles.
Khor Dormaia
4
26
Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and the Wadi
Melh of the Kababish and Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none of the
local Arabs know the name Wadi Melh, and informed me it was far to
the N. This khor, 30 to 35 yards broad, takes its course from N.W.
in the vicinity of J. El Ain, where there was water (December 4) in
khor. There are signs of a big flood coming down in the rains
(banks well wooded); current I should say very rapid, and at times
impassable, flows N.E., passes J. Habisa, and then bears N.
J. El Sad
3½
29½
From this point track
runs N.N.E. over undulating country, and at 3½ miles J. El Sad is
passed, small watercourse passed, and from here track runs
N.E.
2
31½
Wadi (?)
4
35½
At this point a large wadi is entered
bearing S.W., and the track leads down this N.E to
Um Badr
2½
38
Um Badr, which consists of a broad wadi
varying in breadth up to 800 yards, which is enclosed on either
side by hills, and along the bed of which many hundreds of wells
and waterholes have been dug in former times. Wells all filled in
by rains; three wells were opened and 20 feet down no water
obtained, and no sign of water visible.
In years when rain is plentiful, I was
informed by Arabs, water is always obtainable at this depth.
Appears to be an excellent place for camels.
No sign of recent habitation; but on
ridges N.E. are the remains of the scene of the fight between
Dervishes and the Kababish belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta Kabashi
in 1887.
No signs of any caravans having passed
recently, and I am informed that none ever do come here owing to
there being no water.
By Captain J. R. O’Connell,
July, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Bara
—
—
Leaving Bara the track goes due W. over
high sandy ridges; heavy going to a small village Kidaka, one
well.
Kidaka
11
11
The track turns a
little to the N. of W., and passing through thick thorny bush leads
by a small village, Um Asal, one well. Ten miles further on is
Maagla village called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep, good water, a
good deal of cultivation.
Um Asal
4
15
El Saata
10
25
Shireiga
10
35
A good level track
passing through thick bush leading N. of W., after 10 miles reaches
the village of Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two miles due W. is a
small village called El Shegel Gedidat, one well, a good deal of
cultivation. The track leads N. of W. for 7 miles through thick gum
forest, then ends; one now passes between three hills called
Gedidat, two on the south and one on the north, through high grass
for 8 miles, then meeting the track going from Shireiga to Geleit,
and 11 miles on reaches village of Geleit, near the hill, many
wells, little water.
El Shegel Gedidat
2
37
El Geleit
22
59
Masrub
17
76
A good track leads N.W. over open country
to Masrub, little water.
Gilgil
10
86
A good track leads to Gilgil, a small
village; very little water, not drinkable.
Baraeis
10
96
Due N., no track, to
village of Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of W., no track, and
passing south of and close to Jebel Asal and over a rolling plain,
bad going. Meika, goffal, and heglig trees scattered over the
plain. After 40 miles reach Hofra. There are three Nuba villages on
the mountain, one about the centre, and two on the southern end; no
wells, water bad from pools on north end of hill, no rain this
year, people living on meika berries, which they grind and use in
lieu of grain. Village is on top of mountain. Leaving Hofra and
going due W. struck track near a rock called Mekareik Abu Gadein,
10 miles out, and after another 10 miles passed close to a rock
called Sheikh El Rifa. Three miles further on the track turns due
S., and after 4 miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6 miles further on
reaches mountains called Gerawid El Askanut, said to be half way to
Foga. Track now turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel Kanisa on the
west and small hills to the east called Ratak, and passes 2 miles
on through the hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on comes to village of
Mina in Jebel Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are the wells and camp;
little water and not good. Foga is a district. VideRoute 87.
Hofra
40
136
Foga
65
201
By Colonel B. Mahon, C.B., D.S.O.,
December, 1901.
N.B.—Distances approximate.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Nahud
—
—
The country round Nahud is sandy and
undulating; about 5 miles all round is cleared for cultivation.
There are many tebeldi trees which are used for water tanks. There
is a very good supply of well water, wells from 30 to 60 feet deep.
Population about 3,500, chiefly Hamar Arabs. Vide also
later reports.
Hella El Sau
5
5
Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin), no
wells, but good supply of tebeldi trees. Track is very well
defined, being the main road to Shakka, &c., country
undulating, heavy going for camels, bush thick.
Hella El Garaui
4
9
Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.
Hella Um Hashaba
3
12
Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but tebeldi
trees and water melons.
There are no more villages before El
Eddaiya, bush thick, chiefly ebony, bad shade, track good, but
heavy going for camels and slightly undulating.
Fula
25
37
There is a large fula here, but it was
dry at the beginning of November, very good shade; is a good
halting place.
10
47
A broad shallow khor or valley, good
shade and some tebeldi trees; after this you cross an open plateau
into El Eddaiya, there is good grazing on this plateau and nice
shade, a capital camping ground.
El Eddaiya
5
52
Is a large village or collection of
hellas, and has a mixed population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar (Abu
Dagal), Bederia and Messeria, besides many small merchants (Jaalin,
&c.). It is the starting point for merchants for Bahr El Arab,
Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and Shakka.
Camels are very little used S. of
this.
Water very plentiful and good wells from
8 to 30 feet deep; there are remains of many old gardens, and even
now they cultivate onions and other vegetables.
There is a small Government post held by
fifty Bashibazuks.
Khor Atrun
3½
55½
Very good shade, no water but after
kharif (rainy season) many fulas. The track is undulating and
sandy, but broad and well defined.
Abu Asha and Walad El Seluk
4
59½
Both Bederia hellas, no wells, but
tebeldi trees and water melons.
Mumu
7½
67
This is a district; many hellas, Homr
(Felaita), Sheikh Hamed Yassin, several fulas but all dry by middle
of November. No wells, some tebeldi trees, much cultivation. After
the harvest is gathered and when the water in tebeldi trees is
exhausted, the people move near to El Eddaiya. There are no hellas
between here and Muglad, it is more or less forest.
6
73
At this point the road branches; the main
road goes on to Shakka, but take left-hand one S.S.E. to Um Hagar
if you want water.
Um Hagar
8
81
There are here a
succession of rocky basins. All had some water, the one furthest S.
after the rains must have been a considerable lake, and some years
contains water during the whole year, but, I think, will be dry by
end of December this year.
1
82
1½
83½
The track, now very indistinct, runs
W.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it rejoins main road which we left at
mile 73. Country continues the same until about the 86th mile, when
it becomes flat and clay soil; track good and hard going, but all
forest.
Um Sidr
14½
98
Large fula. Road branches at Um Sidr;
main road to Shakka S.S.W. is much best and shorter, I took the one
to Um Battu, but returned by main road. Gullum now becomes
common.
Um Battu
8
106
Three small wells in dry bed of fula, 8
feet deep. These wells could easily be improved, but are not now to
be depended on after 15th December. This, like all the following
places, was once a village. Country all bush and very little shade
except at these fulas, where there are splendid ardeib trees.
Um Gamadi
15
121
A dry fula and was an old village.
Um Gamadi
3
124
Also called Um Gamadi.
Um Kantor
6
130
Dry fula, there was an old village here
at some time.
Um Gedir
11½
141½
Dry fula; very fine ardeib trees
here.
Um Malis
4½
146
Dry fula, same as above.
Khor El Heggis
2
148
Northern boundary of Muglad district;
very small khor, but thickly wooded.
1
149
Road branches, take right-hand one
S.S.W., the other (main track) S.S.E. is one of the many tracks to
the Bahr El Arab.
Um Shanga
1
150
There is water here in khor and some
tebeldi trees (but not filled with water), but this year water
would be dry by end of December.
3½
153½
No track for 3½ miles
W. through very bushy country, then strike path N.N.W. to Hella
Ereiga. From here you strike a well-defined path to Moghrabi.
Hella Ereiga
1½
155
4
159
Track branches S.W., main track S. to
Jange, take right-hand one S.W.
Hella Moghrabi
5
164
This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of the
Homr, lives.
Um Moghrabi
2½
166½
Large fula, plenty of water.
Um Uerst
2½
169
Large fula and lots of good water. But
none of these fulas (or rahads, as they call them) can be relied on
after end of December.
There is another road from El Eddaiya
further W., it is no longer, but goes through very thick forest,
impassable for camels, but there are some wells on this road, and
it is used in the dry weather.
Muglad
—
—
Is a district about 50 miles square, two
days easy from Shakka and two days from Bahr El Arab.
There are many feriks, but no permanent
villages; the people all go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the water
gets scarce and the harvest is collected. They store grain on the
tops of trees for consumption and seed when they return in the
rainy season. Population all Homr (Ageira), there are many Rizeigat
and a few Maalia when I was there, but they have returned to
Shakka. There is lots of gum in the district, but they do not
collect it. Wells can be made at 10 feet, but they make none. I
only saw one well (at Um Ardeib). The people are lazy and poor, but
they have large herds of cattle and sheep.
This hill is now deserted. There is a
broad track running from J. El Hella (Darfur), viâ J.
Adashir into Kaja. This was chiefly used, I think, for looted
cattle. J. Zerga holds water in the rocks, and there is a khor
running, roughly, E. and W., with tebeldi trees, which were filled
in the rains. They were still full in January. J. Zumkhor has
traces of a wall and brick houses, said to have been built by the
Fungs. Also traces of old wells in the wadi. The bricks are good
and well-burnt. There are similar buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of
Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib, E. of Foga.
J. Zerga Mima
9
9
These villages are built on a
bare sandy ridge and grow dukhn only. Two miles from Gamania the
path joins road from Foga to Damjamad, which latter is a district,
including 4 villages of the same name. These people go to Um Shanga
when the water supply fails.
Gilatt
4
13
Gamania
3
16
Damjamad
14
30
A fair path, after passing
small village of Dunur, goes through some thick thorn, and in about 8 miles
descends into Wadi Zernak. This wadi is full of tebeldi trees and
may be noted as a base in case of trouble with Darfur. The trees
would hold a very large amount of water, but, of course, would have
to be filled by hand at the proper time.
Zernak
15
45
Hemir Sibil
15½
60½
Six miles from Zernak the road quits the
tebeldi forest and goes over undulating ridges to Hemir Sibil,
which depends entirely on melons. There is a good deal of
cultivation.
Tom Wad
11½
72
A small village dependent chiefly on
melons.
Zarug Dagmar
7½
79½
Fair sized village growing a good supply
of dukhn.
Lingu
9½
89
This district is known as Zalatta, from a
rock which holds rain water.
Edam
3
92
Small village.
Gurab
7½
99½
Small village, deserted early, as melons
were scarce. Ridges end and country becomes flat with trees and
grass.
Um Reida
8½
108
Large village with many tebeldis and
melons enough to last till next rains. This is in district called
Ghabeish.
Good track all the way to El Odaiya.
Gad el Habub
8½
116½
Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi
trees.
Wad Domai
3½
120
Village.
Abd el Hai
3½
123½
„
Sharafa
3½
127
Large Gowama village. Water from tebeldis
and from Ogr; a “Hafir” or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to 10 feet
deep, 2 miles south. It holds water until about January.
There is no bad bush from here to El
Eddaiya. Good going.
Sharafa belongs to Kordofan, El Ogr to
Darfur.
Gabralla
9
138
Small village of people from Bornu.
Gariban
6
144
Small Hamar village. Main roads from
Taweisha and Shakka come in here.
Um Sedeir
7½
151½
⎫
⎪
⎪
⎬
⎪
⎪
⎭
All small Hamar villages.
Wad Dunga
7
158½
Tamba
9½
168
Sabi
12
180
Aris
7½
187½
Wad Dau el Beit
5
192½
El Eddaiya
12
204½
Vide previous routes.
By Captain E. G. Meyricke, R.E.,
November, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
—
—
The road goes off
almost due W., and runs over an undulating plain, at first open and
covered with dura cultivation, and then covered with small and
thorny shrubs. There are several villages to right and left of
road. Village here consisting of about 60 tukls. From here the road
goes straight to Jebel Abu Sinun. The water here is obtained from
tebeldi trees, and there are some large fulas some distance away,
one of which was not dry in December, although there had been
little rain (1903). Four miles further on one arrives at a large
fula; it contained no water in December. This road now passes El
Abiad, where water is obtained from a few tebeldis and from distant
fulas.
Um Doma
12
12
Monzuka
8¾
20¾
Monzuka is reached, a
small village, water obtained from tebeldi trees in small
quantities, and about 2 miles further on we came to the remains of
a village which was formerly called Um Banda. The nature of the
country, throughout undulating, is a sandy plain covered with
thorny bushes (not
dense) and a few trees, and it remains so until at mile 42 one
arrives at Um Sumaima, where there are tukls and people.
Um Sumaima
21¼
42
Dudia
16
58
There are many fulas on both sides of Um
Sumaima. The tebeldi trees give only a very limited supply of
water, but I was told there was a village named Nethrea not far off
in a southerly direction, where there was more than one well. After
leaving Um Sumaima the road passes many fulas and khors, now quite
dry. The bush becomes a little thicker and there are many more
trees, but there is no difficulty in clearing. About 7½ miles from
Um Sumaima you see traces of the old telegraph line in the shape of
the bases of iron poles, one or two of which are still standing,
but the majority are lying along the road. Trees are now numerous,
and one reaches Dudia at mile 58. There are many tebeldi trees
here, but there is no one living here now.
Huoi
13¼
71¼
The trees are more numerous and the bush
thicker here. Huoi like Dudia has many tebeldi trees, and there is
a big fula, but there was no water in December. There is no village
here now and no people.
Merkab
22
93¼
Continuing, the road passes Merkab, a
village started this year (1903). Here there are many tebeldi trees
and about 10 tukls. Chickens may be obtained here, but only, say,
two at a time. The road here runs through a network of thorny,
though small, trees, a good bit higher than a man on a camel, and
it would be unpleasant travelling by night.
Manwissa
9
102¼
The thorny trees end before arrival at
Manwissa, where there is a village, and the country is now covered
with scattered trees and thin bush.
Um Farigh
5½
107¾
Manwissa, Um Farigh,
and Goda are in a district called Sheikh El Dud. All round here
there are dukhn crops; water is obtained from tebeldi trees. These
villages are small ones. Goda contains about 60 tukls, while 4
miles from Goda, Sudda, a small village, is reached, the face of
the country remaining unchanged.
Goda
2½
110¼
Sudda
4
114¼
Abu Dagal
1
115¼
Abu Dagal is reached
shortly afterwards, and after ascending an elevation on which the
trees are much more numerous, the road descends to Nahud. Water is
obtained from wells, but some of it has very acid properties. This
town is about the same size and of the same population as El Obeid.
The country all round is open.
Nahud
15½
130¾
By Captain W. Lloyd, April and
October, 1900, and Captain C. H. Townsend, 1901 and
1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
—
—
The S.W. road is taken. Good track,
little bush. Plenty of grazing. Country slightly undulating. Sandy
soil.
Abu Haraz
25
25
Small village. Wells in the khor. Pools
of water last till end of October. There are some in the old town
and some in the khor. Latter are best. Good shade. Leaving the
village the bush becomes thicker, but there is a good track.
Um Geiga
7
32
One bad well situated on the side of a
wide khor. A mile down this khor is Um Gurus. Here there are three
wells which generally contain enough water for 30 camels. The sand
in the khor is very soft. Leaving Um Geiga the track ascends at
first. Bush thick, many tebeldi trees about.
Khor Sulfan
10
42
A wide shallow khor. Bush very thick.
This khor should be crossed by daylight if possible. The track now
becomes good, and the bush, though thick, does not interfere with
transport.
El Saata
18½
60½
A ruined Hamar village. Many tebeldis
about, some of which have been used for storing water. Old
wells.
The country now becomes nearly level, and
is covered with ebony trees. Good shade when in leaf, but none in
the hot weather. White ants swarm.
Um Galb
22
82½
A small village on the edge of a swamp.
The village and wells are 1 mile to the S. of the road. Water
plentiful. The track now passes along a ridge of red sand.
Abu Zabbat
6
88½
A Hamar and Bederia village on the sandy
hill. To the S. is a large swamp in which are the wells, 25 to 30
feet deep. Water usually plentiful. Much dura cultivation. Small
suk. Many cattle, sheep, and goats. Good rest house.
It is very difficult to find one’s way
out of the village, and a local guide should be taken until the
main road is reached, as tracks lead in all directions. The track
bears N.W.
Um Dugran
5
93½
A small village; much cultivation about,
chiefly dukhn. The track crosses several khors, but none are
bad.
J. Howawag
32
125½
A low hill on the S. side of the
road.
Um Regulti
6
131½
A small Hamar village, only occupied
during the rains. No well. There is a good deal of hashab bush
about. Further on arad trees are met, they have no thorns.
The track, which is good, leaves the
wells in a south-westerly direction. The country is fairly level,
but much cut up by khors. Low rocky hills are seen on all sides.
The bush on both sides is thick, but horses can move without much
difficulty. Many of the hills, now deserted, show signs of former
Nuba occupants.
J. Kudr
16½
88½
A Nuba village on the hill. Water on the
hill and in a well at the foot. The track now winds between many
hills.
J. Saboi
7½
96
Nearly due W. of J. Kudr. A Nuba village
on the hill. Three wells and some pools. No supplies were
obtainable. The bush becomes thick in places.
J. Kasha
14
110
Large Nuba village on the hill. A
plentiful supply of indifferent water from wells, about one mile
from the village. The inhabitants are fairly well off and some of
them go to the suk at Abu Zabbat. The men carry spears and rifles;
they have a number of the latter.
J. Shifr
6½
116½
A Nuba hill. Water plentiful in wells in
the khor on the N. side of hill, and has much improved. Good camp.
The bush continues bad all the way to Kubgr.
El Sinut
21
137½
A depression of black soil. On the
borders are many Messeria camps. In the rains the depression is a
swamp, covered with long grass and ambach. Sunt trees abound. There
are many wells about 40 feet deep, which are used in summer. There
is a small market. During the rains the people wander off to places
where there are rain pools and cultivate.
El Seneita
9
146½
The track runs S.W., leaving the village
to the N., and a swamp, similar to El Sinut, containing the wells,
to the S. The village is on high ground and on sandy soil. Track
leads S.S.W. through very thick bush.
Toto
17½
164
A swamp, similar to El Sinut. Many wells
30 to 40 feet deep, giving a plentiful supply of water. Good shade,
some gullum. Many Messeria camps about. Bush thick and the cotton
soil much cracked in places. The track now turns N.W. for two miles
and then W. Some cultivation is passed belonging to a small
Messeria village, Ardeb by name, which lies to the N. of the
track.
J. Kubgr
17
181
There are many wells on the N. side of
the hill, though only two on the S. side. From here the following
jebels are visible, they are all close and under Mek Abu Dugal of
Kubgr:—J. Shenshal, J. Abu Gerein, J. Umbosha, and J. Seigo. To the
N. of the hill, and about two miles from it, is a Beni Fadl village
named Shallo. The people drink from J. Kubgr. There is a direct
road from Kubgr, viâ Shallo, to Nahud.
El Eddaiya
30
211
A collection of villages, all under an
Omda, Safi Negm El Din, by name. The main village, which is the
largest, is close to the wells, which are numerous and lie in a
depression, and give a plentiful supply of water at a depth of from
10 to 30 feet, small hand-wheels being used to draw it up. There
are many good gardens here and, at certain seasons, a plentiful
supply of vegetables is obtainable. The population is very mixed,
there being Homr, Hamar, Messeria, Bederia, also some Dongolawis
and Jaalin. The Homr belong chiefly to the Felaita section, and
they have several villages, the chief of these being Mumu, about 12
miles W. of El Eddaiya. There is a Bashibazuk post of 50 men here,
and a small market. This is the starting point for the Bahr El
Arab, Dar Jangé, Dar Fertit, and Shakka. Traders going S. and W.
from here proceed on donkeys and cattle, camels being little
used.
By Captain J. R. O’Connell, the
King’s Shropshire Light Infantry, and Captain W. Lloyd, the
Scottish Rifles, January, 1900; with Additions from El Kaimakam J.
Butler Bey’s Reports in 1901.
There is no difficulty with regard to grazing or firewood on
this road, but camels cannot be watered between El Obeid and El
Rahad. The country S. of El Rahad is practically impassable to
camels as soon as the rains commence.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
—
—
Leaving the Mudiria, there is a good
track over level ground to the S. end of J. Deigo. Bush never
thick, but after the rains the going is bad in places.
J. Deigo
8
8
Small fula at S. end. Water does not last
after November. Track now turns nearly S. and bush becomes thicker.
Several large deep khors. J. Kordofan on W. of track. There is a
pool on top of northern peak which lasts till April (i.e.,
in 1901).
J. El Sofaia
10
18
Left to E. of track; bush bad and
continuous, so to El Rahad.
J. Um Dubabat or El
Ein
2
20
On W. of track. There is a crack in the
rock near the road which always contains water, said to come from a
spring, but by the hot weather water becomes somewhat foul. The
country is flat, bush thick, and there are several deep khors.
Arab cemetery
12
32
By the side of a khor.
Khor Um Dagergur
10
42
A broad, shallow khor, which must be very
swampy in the rains.
El Rahad
5½
47½
Near the lake the road divides in two.
That to the E. leads to the villages of Sheikh Adam Maznuk, a
Gowama. The villages are large and have a small market. The lake is
about 2 miles wide and 5 miles long. When it is dry (as it was in
January, 1900) wells are dug in the bottom.
Regela
5
47
The road to the W. is the main track and
passes through Regela, and near the remains of one of Hick’s forts.
Several large khors are crossed.
Khor Abu Habl
9½
56½
Is 50 feet wide and 2 feet deep, but the
banks are flooded in the rains, and it is said to be impassable at
times.
Egeria (in Jebel Daier)
4
60½
A Dabab village, situated in a khor in J.
Daier. The entrance closed by high stone walls—now broken—near the
khor. Three hellas, and a small market. Wells in the khor, inside
the wall. Plenty of water.
Leaving the village the track crosses
several khors; bush thick and between high hills.
Kitra
4
64½
A small village buried in the hills. The
entrance is between rocks hardly wide enough for a loaded camel.
Gowamas and Nubas. Wells inside the village. Cultivation: dura on
plain outside.
Moving near the foot of the hills the
bush continues thick.
Sitra
5½
70
A village built on the side of the hills.
Good wells with more than enough water for 100 camels. J. Daier is
now left, and the track bears E.S.E. over level country, much cut
up by khors, many of which are 10 feet deep. The bush is very thick
in places. J. Tagale is seen ahead.
Kodi
24½
94½
After crossing several low hills and some
cultivation, Kodi is reached. The village is on the top of a hill
which commands an excellent view in all directions. The wells are
in a khor S. of the village, but large parties of animals have to
go to a pool 5 miles S. W., where 100 camels watered without any
effect on the supply. The track there is very bad, being over a
rocky path through bush.
The road continues to be much broken by
khors. It goes between high hills and through bad bush, and 9 miles
on becomes so bad that it is necessary to dismount and lead the
camels for ½ mile.
Morat
16
110½
A small Nuba village buried in the hills.
One bad well with little water. J. Abu Dom is seen to the E.
Path crosses many khors and wanders about
through thick bush; Senadre and Julia are left to the W. Khor
Julia, 20 feet deep, with steep banks, has to be crossed.
Ruri
11
121½
The track now ascends some 200 feet over
sheet rock and then descends among boulders. This took 200 camels
an hour and a half to cross.
Duris
1
122½
A small hella on the side of the
hill.
Keraia (J. Tagale)
2½
125
On descending on to the plain the track
passes over level country covered with thick bush. It bears almost
due S., and suddenly turns W. into a large cove, the entrance to
which is between narrow rocks. There is a good camping ground
inside and fair wells. The village and market is up the hill.
Keraia is a large place. Mek Geili has a large and well-built house
there. There are also springs of water near the top of the hill.
The camels, however, had to be sent to some wells in a big khor 7
miles further S., as these springs only give enough water for the
inhabitants.
As far as Rashad, by Captain J. R.
O’Connell and Captain W. Lloyd, January, 1900; Remainder by El
Kaimakam J. Butler Bey, March, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Keraia (J. Tagale)
—
—
Leaving the wells at the bottom of the
hill the road turns south along the foot of the hills, crossing
many small khors flowing westwards. Much dura cultivation seen
near.
Khor
6
6
A large khor, 50 yards wide, coming out
of the hills and turning north-east. A mile up this khor are
several good wells. Watered 250 camels there.
The road now enters a narrow valley;
thick jungle for 3 miles, and then ascends a steep hill. Camels
have to be led. Hill terraced for cultivation; now deserted (1900);
signs of elephant. Ground stony in places. Many khors, but not
difficult to cross. High trees shut out all view. Nine miles from
the khor descends a hill, and the road crosses a series of ridges
and khors. Much bush.
Khor El Fedala
13
19
A deep khor. Camel corps had to dismount.
Ridges and khor continue, but track improves.
Mernia
6
25
Ruined village. Two wells, good water.
Jebel of same name near. Road passes between J. Mernia and J. Abu
Shok on to a level plain. J. Rashad seen due west.
Rashad
6
31
Large Nuba village in a valley; both ends
closed by strong sangars. Water quite near the surface in January,
1900, but dirty; watered 200 camels. In February, 1902, water was
very foul. Good shade and grazing. Road turns south; rocky in
places.
J. Tendik
15
46
Head-quarters of District. Nubas. Well at
foot of hill, road to east of jebel. Fair track.
J. Turum
9½
55½
Track crosses jebel; very bad going.
Well. Nubas and Kenana Arabs. Fair going. Four or five miles on a
large forest of deleib palms is entered and continues to
Gurun.
J. Gurun
20
75½
Well and village of Kenana Arabs. Track
passes by many disused wells. Very stony in places.
Khor Wad el Hileisa
25
100½
Flows south-east. Good track to village
north-west of J. Gedir, leaving J. Girada, inhabited by Kenana
Arabs, to the east. Then very bad track to Mek Bosh’s village,
south of J. Gedir. Two wells.
J. Gedir
26
126½
Village protected by sangars.
From Rashad to J. Gedir there is nowhere enough water for 200
camels.
By Colonel B. Mahon Bey, D.S.O.,
8th Hussars, October, 1899.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Karwa
—
—
Site of camp on left bank White Nile just
S. of Kaka. Good camping ground S.E. of village.
The track leaves the river and runs
practically W.N.W., but winds greatly through trees, bush, scrub,
and high grass, which requires clearing for camel transport or
guns.
6½
6½
Track continues W.N.W. over a very
extensive shadeless plain, covered with grass 3½ to 5 feet high,
but not thick. Until beaten down or burnt, this grass makes
marching difficult for infantry.
Domat, or Domaia, or El Zeif
8
14½
There has been a lot of water at Domat,
but it is now (Oct.) practically dried up.
At Domat there are two or three groups of
dom palms, which show up well and can be seen for a long distance.
From here the hills of Kau and Niaro can be seen bearing about 275°
magnetic.
From Domat, for the next 6¾ miles, there
is no track, but, if from the largest group of dom palms on left of
track you march due W. magnetic after going about 2 miles, a thick
clump of dark green bush is seen on the skyline at about 3½ miles
distant, and on the same bearing. A few degrees to the right of the
clump, the hill of Fungor can be seen from the same point.
Mohabia or Hobobia
5¾
20¼
Beyond Mohabia, the above-mentioned clump
of bush, J. Fungor cannot be seen again until you arrive within
about 2 miles from it, except from one point, viz.: Sahab.
From Domat to the commencement of the
forest a plain is crossed covered with grass from 3 to 5 feet high.
From Mohabia on, the track is again visible through grass, as
before.
At 22¾ miles the edge of the forest is
reached. Track winds through forest and undergrowth, the latter not
very thick. Timber much injured by fire. No good shade.
Sahab
4½
24¾
There was water till recently here; now
(Oct.) dried up. J. Fungor visible bearing 275° magnetic.
Track through forest as before.
Safa, or Sufa
8¾
33½
Fine trees giving excellent shade at
Safa. Two pools of water in sandstone rocks; one is 27 yards long
by 16 yards wide, and 9 inches deep, the other, circular, 20 yards
in diameter, and 9 inches deep. If the water remains as at present,
enough to water all our animals.
Path continues distinctly marked and
through forest without much undergrowth except where one or two
grassy khors are crossed. Very good ground for marching.
Within 1 mile of Fungor, country has been
cleared for cultivation, and there is some dura and high
grass.
J. Fungor
12
45½
Very good camping ground N.E. of the
centre hill and close to the water.
Several large tanks of good water were
found besides several smaller ones of still better water amongst
the rocks on the hill side. With the assistance of a heavy
thunderstorm the water supply was ample for two battalions, 500
cavalry, and some Camel Corps and transport for 3 or 4 days in
October, 1899. In fact no impression was made on it.
The village is situated on the E. side of
the central hill, which is about 350 feet high. The hill is very
steep and difficult to ascend with boots. The inhabitants are
almost all Nubas. Mek’s name Khalil. There are also some Aulad
Hameid under Sheikh Idris.
For the first 2 miles the path winds
through high grass and very thick bush, crossing one small khor,
containing water from previous night’s rain. The bush is of low
sunt, and was evidently once a clearing.
2
47½
The path passes to the right of some low
rocky hills, after which the forest opens out, and the trees,
chiefly heglig and acacia, are bigger. The soil is sandy, grass
very low, and little undergrowth.
2½
50
At about 4½ miles the track is opposite
the S.E. end of the Kau range, which is a ½ mile on the right.
Country fairly open; going very good.
Kau
2½
52½
The village of Kau is on the W. slope of
J. Kau. It contains about 500 inhabitants. Nubawi blacks; neither
men nor women are clothed. Most of the houses are built high up
amongst the rocks. Water obtainable from crevices on the rocky
hillside. A good many dom palms near the village. A space of about
10 feddans to W. of hill was formerly cleared, but is now overgrown
with small dom palms, about 4 feet high. After leaving Kau, the
track winds through open forest, the trees improve in size, and
more tropical plants are seen. Large numbers of bamboos, of
apparently very good quality, grow in clusters along the small
khors. Soil light and sandy.
5¾
58¼
Nearly 6 miles from Kau the soil becomes
heavy clay, and the grass is higher. The path winds a good deal,
and is full of holes caused by subsidence after rain. It would be
necessary to clear a track for guns or transport for the next 1¼
miles, after which the path improves and the going is sounder.
Shag el Hagar
3¼
61½
Here there are two large rocks; the
higher, about 50 feet in height, commands a good view; the lower,
about 12 feet high, contains a large supply of water in four large
and several small natural tanks, three of these are each about 60
feet long and 6 feet to 10 feet wide, and vary in depth from 2 feet
to 4 feet. The fourth is 150 feet long and 9 feet wide, and from 4
feet to 6 feet deep. The water is excellent; 550 men and 420 horses
were watered twice in 36 hours at these tanks and made little
apparent difference in the supply. As there is no catchment area,
except the surface of the rock, it looks as if the tanks were fed
by springs. Should the source of supply be capable of giving more
water, the amount retained could be easily increased by building a
small dam across the end of the large tank, which would increase
the depth to 9 feet. One of the other tanks could be similarly
treated, but the result would not be so great. Horses must be
watered from buckets.
Country around is covered with fairly
open forest of good-sized trees, with a little undergrowth. No
bamboos were noticed after this.
For about 3 miles the track continues
through forest. At 19 miles it reaches a large open glade about 2
miles wide, with very few trees, and with grass 3½ feet high. It is
apparently a clearing made at some time by fire. Track then
continues through open forest of very fine trees, many of which are
tabeldi (Adansonia).
Khor Goz El Tabeldi
7¼
68¾
On this occasion, owing to the recent
rain, there was sufficient water in this khor to water the men and
horses, but water cannot be counted on. Country remains open; trees
scattered, but sufficient for shade. Grass 5 feet to 8 feet
high.
Khor El Waja
4¾
73½
This is a grassy khor, about ¼ mile wide,
quite dry, but said to hold water during rains. It is intersected
by narrow water channels, 3 feet to 6 feet deep. The khor, whose
soil is black clay, would be a serious obstacle to troops in the
rainy season, and would, I think, be impassable for guns and
transport while in flood.
Khor Melisa
1
74½
This is a sandy khor about 17 yards wide,
with steep banks 10 feet to 14 feet deep, said to come from J.
Girada. In the rains it must be a considerable obstacle. The
country continues open, but with grass from 6 feet to 8 feet high,
to within 2¾ miles of Gedir, when a belt of thick acacia and kittr
scrub, 1¾ miles in width, is crossed. For guns or pack animals, it
would be necessary to clear a path through this belt.
About 1½ miles from Gedir, the sandy
khor, Gedad, 8 feet wide and 6 feet to 8 feet deep, said to come
from J. Girada, is crossed. The last ¾ mile to Gedir is open ground
with few scattered trees.
J. Gedir
7¾
82¼
A rocky horseshoe-shaped hill, estimated
altitude above the plain 600 feet. The village is on the
re-entrant. Near the gorge are two wells about 80 feet deep, with a
little water. No other water was seen. There are about 500
inhabitants. Many of the men have rifles. They are not naked like
those of Kau, and appear to be a cross between Arabs and
Nubas.
The Mahdi’s Stone is a large boulder up
the slope of the hill, outside of, and about ½ a mile from the
northern heel of the horseshoe, and on the way to Girada, of the
same colour as the surrounding rocks, and shaded by a heglig tree,
which may account for the Mahdi’s partiality for it. No cultivation
was seen, but the inhabitants said they had some dura fields
ripening.
Jebel Girada appears to be 5 to 7 miles
distant. It is said to have a plentiful water supply.
By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January
and February, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
—
—
Leaving the Mudiria, the road runs in a
S.S.W. direction, and at 1½ miles distance further on reaches the
southern edge of the El Obeid basin, and low acacia bush and an
occasional baobab tree take the place of dukhn cultivation.
Track to El Atshan Wells
5
5
At 5 miles distance from El Obeid, a
broad track runs in a S.W. direction to El Atshan wells, which are
situated in Khor Fertangul, 22 miles from El Obeid.
The road to El Merekib continues in the
same direction, viz., S.S.W., and one passes through the same kind
of bush with sandy soil until the village is reached. The
inhabitants consist of Bederia and Ghodiat Arabs.
El Merekib
5
10
There is a well here, but the supply of
water is very small. Dukhn is cultivated around the village.
J. Fertangul
6½
16½
The road continues in
a S.W. by S. direction until J. Fertangul is reached. There are two
small hills of the same name; one E. of the road, and 6½ miles
distant from Merekib, and the other on the W. of the road, and 8
miles distant from Merekib. The crest of latter is crowned with
white limestone.
1½
18
Khor Fertangul
1
19
One mile from the hill, Khor Fertangul
with wells in its bed is reached.
5
24
Khor.
Khor Kashgil
1½
25½
Khor Kashgil with good shade and
grazing.
El Edeidat
9¾
35½
Here road changes direction to S.S.E.,
and runs through thick bush for 9¾ miles until khor crosses road;
this place is known as El Edeidat. There are two wells in khor.
(Plenty of water March, 1904.)
Hella Abdel Samad
5
40¼
Road runs S. from here, and 5 miles on a
track runs S.E. to Hella Abdel Samad, which is about 1 mile off the
main road.
El Birket
2¾
43
One and three-quarter miles on road turns
due W., and 1 mile on brings one to El Birket; there are two
villages here consisting of Bederia Arabs who have a good deal of
land under cultivation. Here there is a large lake or reservoir,
which I am informed contains much water for eight months in the
year, but owing to this year being exceptionally dry there was no
water (February, 1902), and wells sunk in the centre 24 feet deep
were also dry. The area of this reservoir is probably 2 square
miles. Good timber and shade on the southern edge of the lake.
From here the road runs S.W. through
thick bush, and the soil changes to black cotton soil.
El Edaiya Faki Yasin
7
50
The district known as El Edaiya
commences, and Hella Beni Fadl is reached.
Um Seneina
2¾
52¾
Hella Um Seneina.
Abu Habl
3¼
56
Khor Abu Habl is
reached at Sessaban. This district is inhabited by Bederia Arabs;
each village has a certain amount of land cleared and under
cultivation (dukhn). Khor Abu Habl is here about 15 to 20 yards
broad, with high banks varying from 15 to 20 feet with good timber
growing along them. A few wells are sunk at Sessaban, but the
supply of water was not sufficient to allow of animals being
watered (8.1.02).
Um Sessaban
H. El Daruta
3½
59½
H. El Daruta (Bederia), J. Belgulti and
Fainar visible from here.
2
61½
Track runs W., and
H. Balamat
1
62½
Hella Balamat is reached.
Kururra
2½
65
Khor Abu Habl is again struck at Kururra
well, which is situated under a very fine gemmeiza tree, and gives
a large quantity of water.
Well, 80 feet to water, and there was 20
feet of water in it. Kururra village ½ mile E. of well, Bederia,
also water at this well. Hawazma Arabs.
Sungikai
3
68
Wells of Sungikai—four in number, 72 feet
deep in khor; banks of khor 10 to 15 feet high. Large population of
Hawazma Arabs.
Sungikai village 1½ miles N.W.
From Sungikai village a much used road
runs N.N.W. to El Obeid, passing through El Atshan wells in Khor
Fertangul, distance 48 miles.
Zeriba El Aguz or H. El Birgid
2½
70½
Leaving Sungukai wells, one enters a very
rich district. Road runs S.W., and 2½ miles H. El Birgid (Bederia)
is reached, and villages occur almost every mile till El Nila is
reached. There is much cultivation in this district; the
inhabitants (Hawazma) possess many cattle, and N. of Nila there is
excellent timber.
El Nila
5½
76
At El Nila there are six wells,
average 42 feet deep, giving excellent supply of water, and many
hundreds of cattle, sheep and goats water there daily. Fine
gemmeiza, sunt, haraz, and heglig trees. Four to five Arab
(Ferikgs) or settlements. Khor 20 yards between banks, which in
places are 22 to 25 feet broad. All along bank there is very good
timber.
Leaving El Nila wells in a S.S.E.
direction, there is an excellent and much used road to J. Watta,
distant 30 miles, first 10 miles good shade, after that none.
Leaving El Nila, road runs S.W. and after
13 miles through forest of heglig and talh, and over cotton soils
bring one to J. Dilling, consisting of a group of hills; thickly
populated by Nubas who build their little conical huts in groups in
suitable recesses among the boulders high up in the hills.
½
91½
Half a mile S.W. wells in khor; khor 25
to 30 yards broad; good shade and grazing; good camp ground.
J. Abu Sebah
4
95½
Four miles S.W. is J. Abu Sebah, a small
rocky hill ½ mile from khor along which there is a small population
of Hawazma Arabs, who have dug wells, four in number, in khor,
depth 21 feet to water. Deleib palms were first seen between
Dilling and this, and the country intervening is cleared and
cultivated.
From J. Abu Sebah road to Gulfan runs
S.E. over cotton soil for first four miles. Open bush and then
talh, heglig bush, &c.
J. Samasen
15
110½
J. Samasen is passed, and
4
114½
Four miles on, one
reaches the foot of hills where soil becomes more gravelly, and
contains a lot of detritus and broken rock, which makes going
harder for camels. The road trends S. and then W., winding over
spurs from the main hills and passing over large areas which are
cultivated with dura, eventually entering between the hills crowned
with many Nuba villages and Gulfan is reached.
J. Gulfan
3
117½
Here there was very little water. Wells
mere holes 6 feet to 8 feet, and having a very slow yield. Hills
are here terraced to the top, and dura grown in large quantities.
The terraces are most carefully made and walls of stone are
built.
From Gulfan the road runs W. over rock,
and going is bad, as one is continually ascending and descending
spurs.
2
119½
Two miles after
leaving, wells (mere holes in the ground, about 6 feet deep) are
passed, the road now running between two ranges of hills, and there
is an Arab settlement. J. Tarda is left on the N. and J. Watta 4
miles N.E., and road turns S. and S.W., following the contour of
the southern range of hills, and ½ mile on a road branches, running
N.E. to J. Watta, which is inhabited by Nubas and Arabs.
J. Tarda
1
120½
½
121
The road to J. Watta runs N.E. through
thick bush for 4½ miles, and crosses a khor close to the hill.
There are many wells, but most give very little water which,
however, is of good quality. The road to Kadaro and El Obeid from
S. passes through here; and also there is an excellent road to
Nila, running N.N.W. through talh and jungle. This road is greatly
used by Hawazma Arabs, who migrate N. annually. Six miles after
leaving J. Watta, J. Tungul is left on E., 3 miles off road, and at
16 miles J. Dilling el Khulla is passed, 1 mile W. of road. No
shade for 20 miles, then good shade and grazing; total distance to
Nila 30 miles.
Katta
2½
123½
Nuba village Katta is passed, and there
is an Arab settlement close by. Much dura is cultivated. J. Sheibun
and Um Heitan is visible.
2
125½
A large rocky hill
with jagged crest; low bush, no shade. Here road runs S.S.W., and
2¼ miles on khor is passed which had water in a hole under S. bank
on 21.2.02. Road continues in same direction and the country is
very much the same as before, talh and heglig, only the soil is
more gravelly until Khor Debri and Debri wells, 6 feet deep, are
reached. Leaving Debri wells, where there is a small hill, road
runs S.W. for 2 miles, and ¾ mile further S.
2¼
127¾
9½
137¼
J. Debri
2¾
140
J. Debri, with village (Nuba) of the same
name is passed. Here much land is cleared and dura cultivated at
the foot of hills.
J. Kega
2
142
Two miles south of Debri road bends to
W., skirting the foot of the hills, and J. Kega Tummero is reached.
This is a large conical hill, part of W. chain of other features,
and up the sides of which the Nubas have built their huts, some
situated right on the top, at the foot of which and in the
re-enterants are also many huts belonging to them and also Arabs.
There is a well here but the water is very bad.
Khor Kega
2
144
Two miles on Khor
Kega is reached, which flows from J. Kega el Abiad and Kega Libu.
There are six wells in bed of khor, which is 20 yards wide, 6 to 8
feet deep; water good and abundant, good shade and grazing. Much
dura is cultivated in the plain, and there is an Arab (Hawazma)
settlement. Crossing Khor Kega road runs roughly S. over cotton
soil with talh and heglig forest, and at 3½ miles Khor El Kuek is
crossed.
Khor El Kuek
3½
147½
Hella Daud
12
159½
Eleven miles on Hella Daud, 35 to 40 huts
belonging to Hawazmas, who cultivate dura and have much ground
cleared. From here to S.W. the Miri range and J. Demik and Kega Heg
El Kheil are visible. Water is transported from wells in a khor E.
of village at the foot of J. Tesein Dhanat.
J. Kadugli
7
166½
After continuing S. through the same kind
of forest and crossing many small watercourses which flow W. from
the hills, the road skirts the foot of J. Musta, and Kadugli is
reached. Here there is a population of Nubas and Hawazma Arabs. The
Mek of the Nubas is named Rehal, and he exercises power over all
the surrounding hills. The whole of this range of high hills
containing J. Tesem Dhanab, J. Musta and J. Kadugli, is known by
the name of El Goghub. J. Sabori, to the W., is also
inhabited.
From KADUGLI to
KEILAK.
Khor Kadugli
½
167
Leaving the camp at the foot of J.
Kadugli one proceeds W. and ½ mile on brings one to the khor of the
same name. Here there are three groups of wells. (1) ¾ mile W. of
Arab village there are a group of some half a dozen wells,
principally used by Arabs. (2) Central group, live wells 6 feet
deep, used by Nubas. (3) 1 mile down stream and S., two wells 6
feet deep, used by the Mek’s immediate household; all give a good
supply of water. There is very good grazing all along the khor.
Much dura cultivated.
J. Kaffari
2
169
J. Kaffari is passed
S. of road which runs W. through much dura cultivation and along
the banks of Khor Kadugli, which rises in Miri range. Road passes
now between low range of hills, and continues W. by S. for 5 miles
through level plain covered with heglig, talh, and haraz forest,
with clearings for dura cultivation, with the hills close in on
either side forming a narrow gorge scarcely 200 yards wide, down
which runs a khor some 10 to 15 yards broad. The ground being rocky
it is very bad going for camels and bulls.
1
170
5
175
¾
175¾
Gorge turns abruptly S., and road
continues on through pretty scenery in a W. direction over a rocky
saddle-back, and then one gradually descends into a valley in which
a large and important khor rises which feeds Lake Keilak, and
enters the Bahr El Arab. Water here obtained by digging in the sand
in bed of khor.
Plain surrounded by green vegetation; good
timber, and there is much land cleared for dura cultivation. The
hills are terraced to the tops and dura grown on them.
Tuluk
5
180
Tuluk, the abode of Mek Hamed Abu Sekin,
is reached, and there are many groups of villages in the
surrounding hills; some low down near the foot, others perched high
up near the crests. Here, surrounded on all sides by hills, is a
large open area of ground with water within 2 feet of the surface,
probably 1½ square miles of rich soil, which, if only tilled, would
grow almost everything. The Nubas only require dura, however.
J. Kufa
3
183
Leaving Tuluk the track runs along side
of khor, which now runs S.W., and 3 miles on J. Kufa, with several
large villages, is passed. Here roads divide; one, following khor,
passes through plain much cultivated with dura by the Nubas of J.
Kufa, Lima, and Kania. The khor here is walled across at intervals
with large stones to hold back the water in the rains. Khor emerges
from the hills at J. Kania.
J. Abu Sinun
2
185
The second road runs S.S.W. to J. Abu
Sinun, where there are two Nuba villages under Mek Zakharia, and a
Homr (Felaita) village. Water obtained from khor.
J. Kanga
3
188
Three miles W. is J. Kanga, the southern
side of which hill is fortified by a 6-feet stone wall, crowned by
a zeriba to guard the Nubas from raids by the Homr Arabs. The huts
are high up the hill. Khor emerges here between two hills, and is
now 20 to 25 yards broad; well 4 to 6 feet in khor; water good.
Looking S. about 20 miles off are two hills, and beyond as far as
the eye can reach to the S. and W. is a dead level plain covered
with forest. From J. Kanga, road runs W. and S.W., and for 1½ miles
there is dura cultivation.
1
189
Khor crosses road, and cotton soil takes
the place of rocky decomposed gravel. The forest is of larger
growth—talh and heglig, and the tracks of animals which have
struggled through the deep mud that exists in the rains become
visible.
3½
192½
Road again crosses khor, and long grass
hinders any view.
2½
195
Road crosses outlet from Lake Keilak,
which now becomes visible, and then goes due W. for two miles when
Keilak is reached.
Keilak
2
197
Keilak is a series of groups of tukls
badly built and inhabited by Homr Arabs who possess few flocks, a
few horses, and appear to live on the Nubas.
The limits of the lake are very difficult
to determine, as for 2 miles on N.E. and N. sides long grass 8 feet
high hides all view, but from what can be observed by riding round
the length was computed to be 4 miles and the breadth 2 miles. On
22.1.02, there was a very large expanse of open water, and the
natives reported it to be considerably over a man’s height in
depth. In order to reach the open water one has to wade through a
broad fringe of green grass and lilies. Soil surrounding lake
excellent, rich soil and water could be found a mile from edge, 6
feet below surface. The forest on S. and W. sides very good, and
there are some really fine timber trees.
2
199
Leaving Keilak road runs N. for 2
miles then S.S.E., and numerous Arab settlements are passed
situated along the outlet of the lake.
El Geref
4½
203½
4½ miles El Geref; Homr settlement; here
there is water in any quantity, 8 paces broad with grass and
water-lilies covering the surface. Water 1 to 2 feet deep in
places. Current very slight; Arabs clear spaces and fence them
round for fish to collect in.
1¼
204¾
Road then goes S.W.
for 1¼ miles, then S.S.E. for 2½ miles over a broad swamp, dry at
date of crossing (25.1.02), but covered with long grass and pitted
with elephant tracks, which were terrible pitfalls for the baggage
animals. After crossing this bit of country, track runs S.W., along
edge of bed of river, which was dry, and going became better, and
when track ran on the slightly elevated edge of forest; the soil
was sandy and going good until El Yoi was reached. Along immediate
edge of river, forest very good. To the E. and W. away from river,
talh and heglig forest and cotton soil.
2½
207¼
El Yoi
20¾
228
At El Yoi two pools were found, containing
good water sufficient for our wants, but likely only to last for a
few days. Ground here much cut up and intersected by small water
channels, while soil was baked hard and cracked in all directions,
making it most difficult for bulls and donkeys to travel. At El Yoi
itself, good shade and fine trees; forest in neighbourhood and to
S. consists of talh, and ground covered with long grass.
El Dirkoei
7¾
235¾
Road continues S.W., and after 7¾ miles,
El Dirkoei is reached; this place merely a reach of the river,
which at the time contained a little water.
El Debekir
3½
239¼
Three and a-half miles S.W., El Debekir
was reached. Here there was an Arab (Homr) settlement; water in bed
of river, 8 feet deep in places and covered with grass (27.1.02),
but dry on 11.2.02.
13¾
253
From Debekir road
runs over black cotton soil very much fissured. W. by S. for 13¾
miles, then S.S.W. for 3 miles when heglig forest is entered and El
Anga on river is reached. Here there is an Arab settlement, and
there was a little water (28.1.02).
El Anga
3
256
Kuek
5½
261½
Road now runs 1¾ miles S.W., and S. for
3¾ miles when Kuek is reached. Here the river is 50 yards broad,
and the water was from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet deep, but covered
with grass. Large Arab settlement and many cattle.
H. Debib
6
267½
Road runs S.W. for 6 miles, when H. Debib
is passed; a few Homr Arabs living here; but in the rains there are
many wells; one well 6 feet deep, water good.
General run of road now S.S.W. to S.
Fula Hamadai
3½
271
Fula Hamadai with a little water
sufficient to water animals on 30.1.02; but dry on 9.2.02. Small
villages—mere collection of three or four huts passed at El Jaart
and Um Geren.
Fut
11¾
282¾
Eleven and three quarter miles from Fula
Hamadai, village named Fut was passed. Country here more open and
lower bush; going better, and road crosses river bed; dry and long
grass.
Fauwel
4
286¾
Fauwel is reached. Large Arab settlement;
much water in river, and an open expanse 1¾ miles surrounded by
reeds. Geese and waterfowl. Homr Arabs here very wild, but possess
many cattle, goats and sheep.
8¾
295½
Road now runs 1 mile S.W. and 5¾ miles
S.S.E. and strikes the river, then continues to run alongside of it
for 2 miles, when the river takes a bend N.E. The river here is
very broad, 300 yards in places and the water is 3 feet 6 inches
deep, generally the surface is covered with grass and weeds, and
very little open water is seen. The trees on bank are also much
bigger.
Bahr El Arab
5
300½
The Bahr El Arab here has to be crossed,
and this was done at a point where it was 120 yards broad, with
water 3 to 3 feet 6 inches deep, the baggage bulls being unloaded
and the baggage being carried across by hand. Bed of river very
muddy.
From this point, which is known to the
Arabs, as the district of Bara, the river flows S.S.E. as far as
could be judged.
Track now runs S., and at 5 miles divides
one running S.S.W. to the country of a Dinka chief called Rueng,
the other S.S.W. leads over a wide plain covered with long grass
and a few bushes; surface of ground much fissured and soil much cut
up.
Country changes to forest after some
miles.
Bongo
14¾
315¼
The first Dinka
village of Bombo is reached. This district is now known as Bongo,
and 3 miles on, S.W., is one of the villages of Tehak, another of
the same name being met 2½ miles on.
3
318¼
Tehak
2½
320¾
These villages, neatly built, are used by
the Dinkas in the rains and as long as the water lasts. At the
present date, 2.2.02., all the inhabitants had left and were
grazing their herds of cattle where grass and water were to be
found.
Etai
2
322¾
Reached Etai, where the first Dinkas were
met. Here there were large settlements, and the people were most
friendly. A chief named Lor has his headquarters here. A large
watercourse flows in from N.E. and meets another watercourse, the
Regabet El Lau, which comes from N.W., and then joining runs into
the Kir, or Bahr El Jange, in a southerly direction.
Kir, or Bahr El Jange
5½
328¼
Road continues for 3 miles through forest
S.W., then runs W. for 2½, miles, and the Kir River, or Bahr El
Jange, is struck, as one reaches the settlements of Sultan
Rob.
The river here is a most pleasant sight
after the monotonous red talh forest and long grass, and is 80
yards broad now, 3.2.02., 12 to 15 feet deep, current 1½ miles an
hour. Banks low but firm, with green rushes and grass along the
edges. In the rains the banks are flooded and the river widens to
200 to 400 yards. There are a few dugouts here; the natives say
that canoes can go in open water to the Bahr El Ghazal. Fish are
plentiful, as are also crocodiles and hippos.
The district on N. bank is called Mareg.
The district on S. bank is called Masian, and the Sultan Rob lives
in the latter. Much dura is cultivated.
By Major E. B. Wilkinson, January
and February, 1902.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
2¼
—
Leaving Sultan Rob’s settlement the road
runs N.W., and the river is left on the left, but is struck again
2¼ miles on, and the path keeps along the left bank. The country
here is all open, and much dura cultivated. Dinka dwellings are
dotted about, and the country presents a most prosperous
aspect.
Gohea
2¾
5
Village of Gohea on
river bank, which here has become overgrown with reeds, grass,
&c. River here turns to N.W., and road now runs N.E. for 2¾
miles, then E. by N.
2¾
7¾
1
8¾
One mile on Regabet El Lau, coming in
from N. and running S.
El Niat
1¼
10
The commencement of a large swamp, now
dry, called El Niat, but covered with long grass, and going is very
bad.
4½
14½
End of El Niat.
1½
16
Direction of road changes to N.
Gulmaia
9¼
25¼
Gulmaia, a pool containing very bad
water; almost dried up.
Abu Kareit
4
29¼
Abu Kareit, on Bahr El Arab. Homr
settlement. River here 100 yards broad, with water 2 feet 6 inches
deep covered with grass; river here flows E. and W.
Mellum
4¾
34
Track follows river bank.
Mellum, an Arab settlement, with Khor
Famai running in from N.
Regabet El Shaib
6½
40½
River now flows W. by N., and 6½ miles on
Regabet El Shaib; flows in the N. from river; now bends S.W., and
enters district called Bara. Immediately at this point flows in
Keilak El Yoi; and Fauwel flows in from N.E.
Fauwel
3¼
43¾
From Regabet El Shaib road runs N.E., and
another 3¼ miles N. brings one to Fauwel.
Immediately one emerges from the hilly country of the Nubas a
vast level plain meets the eye, absolutely devoid of landmarks: the
soil changes abruptly to rich black cotton soil with fissures, some
so broad and deep that it is dangerous for bulls and donkeys, owing
to their getting their legs jammed in the cracks. The
surface of the land
is uniformly covered with talh and heglig trees; occasionally
tamarind and kau trees are met. Only two india-rubber trees were
seen. The natives do not appear to know the use of these. The Bahr
El Arab in section is very shallow, with no defined banks, and at
this time of year water is more or less in pools. All the
confluents are the same shallow watercourses, and the country
appears to be one vast swamp in the rains. Only in a few places,
Fauwel, Keilak, and Kuek, do the Homr Arabs remain throughout the
year, as they say that the flies and mosquitoes torment men and
beasts to such an extent as to make life unbearable.
By Deputy Inspector C. E.
Lyall.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
El Obeid
5
5
After leaving El Obeid in a southerly
direction, road divides, going S. to Mereikab and S.S.W. to El
Atshan.
Road continues in S.S.W. direction, and
thorn bush does not impede travelling; going generally good.
El Atshan
17
22
El Atshan wells are reached, 22 miles
from El Obeid; quite dry—20.4.03.
Leaving El Atshan, road divides S.S.E. to
Kadero, S.W. to El Hamadi; country generally open bush and good
going. Two khors with fine timber are crossed.
El Hamadi
18
40
El Hamadi is reached 18 miles from El
Atshan. On 20.4.03 there was a little water in shallow wells in
khor; it took about 2 hours to get two burmas. On 5.6.03 there was
no water.
El Nebag
7
47
Leaving El Hamadi,
road goes S.W.; at first a good deal of thorn bush, till passing El
Nebag, which is a depression with many magnificent trees and in
which there is water in the rains. After passing El Nebag the road
opens out, and the going is good and hard. After travelling 18
miles from El Hamadi, El Hagiz, a shallow khor with some good
shade, is reached. Half a mile before reaching El Hagiz road is
joined by road from Um (Girban) Durban.
Khor El Haigiz
11
58
Sungikai, H. Gaghgagh
12
70
Road continues in a S.W. direction till
Sungikai is reached. The hella is 2 miles from the wells. Unlimited
water.
N.B.—On El Obeid, Hamadi Sungikai road, except in rains, there
is very little shade, except at El Atshan, Hamadi, El Nebag and
Umhagiz.
By Deputy Inspector C. E. Lyall,
June 1903 and March, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Dilling (Nuba)
—
—
The road from Dilling
to Sungikai soon after passing Jebel Dilling separates from the
Dilling-Nila road and keeps W. of it. The general direction is
N.E., the road is good going and fairly free from thorns. There are
a few patches of black cotton soil; after 10 miles the road crosses
the Khor Abu Habl,[33] and continues N.E. till Hellet Gad el
Kerim is reached.
Gad El Kerim (Hawazma)
16
16
Sungikai (Zeriba El Aguz)
6
22
The inhabitants of this village drink
from the wells at Nila, except during the rains, when they drink
from pools in Khor Abu Habl. The road keeps up on the rising ground, passing
numerous villages till the largest village in the immediate
neighbourhood of Sungikai, Zeriba el Aguz, is reached.
Sungikai (H. Gaghgagh)
2
24
Leaving this village the road from
Sungikai after being joined by roads from the numerous surrounding
villages continues in a N.E. direction till El Hagiz is reached, ½
mile after passing which the road divides N.N.E. to Um Durban. The
road, after passing to the W. of Zeriba el Aguz, goes H. Gaghgagh
and thence to El Hagiz, where it divides W. to Um Durban and E. to
El Hamadi.
Um Durban (Kenana)
24
48
The road is at first very winding with a
good deal of shok, after about 6 miles it opens out, and continues
fair till Um Durban is reached; where on 5.6.03, there was a little
water from wells in khor; in March 1904, the water had dried
up.
Leaving Um Durban the road goes N.E.,
after about 6 miles Hellet Kafawa is passed some 4 miles to the W.
of the road.
Um Ramad (Bederia)
30
78
The road continues in the same direction
N.E., the going being uniformly good and free from shok, except in
a few depressions and khors till after some 24 miles, when the soil
becomes heavy red sand, which continues till Um Ramad is reached.
At this village there are numerous shallow wells and water holes,
but they were quite dry on 6.6.03, but plenty of water 1.5.04. The
people drink from Abu Haraz and Obeid. The road from Um Durban
joins the Abu Haraz road ½ mile from Um Ramad.
After passing Um Ramad the road broadens
out into a track about 15 feet wide, and continues in a N.E.
direction till El Obeid is reached.
El Gika
5
83
Five miles after leaving Um Ramad, the
first El Gika village is passed ½ mile to the left of the road.
Plenty of water 1.5.04.
El Obeid
11
94
There are five villages at El Gika, each
about a mile from the other; the road to El Obeid from El Gika runs
parallel to the Abu Haraz-El Obeid road until it joins it about 3
miles from El Obeid. On this road from Sungikai there is very
little shade, except at the villages.
By Captain C. H. Leveson, 18th
(P.W.) Hussars, December, 1903-March, 1904.
(i.) Jebel Tendik to Lukka.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Tendik
—
—
Large Nuba village of 1,200
people. Most of the village is built in a hollow about 600 feet up
the jebel and on a ridge above it. Good water up on the mountain,
also good below, where there is a garrison of half company 12th
Sudanese. Quiet, peaceable people; much cultivation; sheep and
goats, but not many cattle. A big khor runs along E. and S. of
jebel, through dense deleib palms. The road runs nearly due S., and
crosses the big khor at 2 miles—re-crossing it again almost at
once.
—
5
A jebel
about 30 feet high on W. Cross a ridge and a khor a mile further
on. All good going over gravel.
1
6
1
7
1
8
Cross
another khor, when road runs between parallel ridges of stony hills
for 2¼ miles, when the Khor Sesaban is reached.
2¼
10¼
J. Odam
1¼
11½
A small hill, 400 feet on
right. Cross Khor Ardeib, 8 feet deep.
Khor Ardeib
1½
13
For 5½ miles there is a range
of low hills on right of road and for the next 5½ a low range on
left of road.
11
24
Cross a khor.
Khor Nueila
1
25
A mile
further on, and the Khor Nueila is reached. The main channel about
15 feet deep and 30 yards wide. Beyond is a swampy track 600 yards
across, with pools of water (December, 1903), biggest 100 yards
long and 3 feet deep. Good clear water. Much game; tracks of lion
and leopard. Hartebeeste and wart-hog seen. Elephants live about
here in rains. After crossing swamp, track leads up on to higher
ground, crossing a small khor, and at 1½ miles and further another
khor.
1½
26½
1½
28
½
28½
A small hill on right.
½
29
Cross khor.
½
29½
A hill on right, cross the
Khor Id El Simoa, 6 feet deep, 30 yards wide.
1¼
30¾
Small hill on right.
1
31¾
Cross Khor Jogham, 6 feet
deep, 20 yards wide.
1
32¾
Small hill, J. Gelabi, on
right.
Khor Hash Hashi
3¼
36
A little water still standing
in marshy ground behind main channel, which is 12 yards broad and
10 feet deep. Cross khor, and for 2½ miles there are low hills on
left of road.
J. Thaba
4
40
J. Thaba on right of road,
cone-shaped hill, with bald, smooth top, about 70 feet. A good
landmark.
Khor Um Idara
3
43
Khor Um Idara, plenty of
water here now. Tracks of lion. As usual, swarms of guinea fowl.
Main channel 20 yards wide, 8 feet deep.
3½
46½
Khor Um Aleik, shallow,
broad, sandy khor.
J. Obni
1¼
47¾
J. Obni, half a mile away on
right of road.
¾
48½
Khor Dabdub—small.
J. Doga
½
49
J. Doga, 1 mile away on right
of road—jagged top.
J. Lukka
3¾
52¾
Road curves round to right in
a wide sweep and enters valley at foot of mountain. (Described in
Kologi-Lukka road.)
(ii.) J. Lukka to J.
Errio.
J. Lukka
—
—
Road leads N. out of valley
for ½ mile, then curves to left along high ground on northern spurs
of J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly ridges; by making short
detours to right, at khors, all dismounting may be avoided. Much
cultivation on right.
Khor Tuffa
—
6
The Khor Tuffa 20 yards
broad, 12 feet deep; must dismount here—quite dry. Road becomes
stony after khor.
Errio
2
8
Village of Errio is reached
after bending round sharp to left and crossing a “nek,” or “col.”
Many cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas.
Population about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr and Abballa Adam. No
rifles seen. Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty of dura.
Water plentiful but dirty.
Best camp ½ mile beyond village to S.W., on Tira El Akhdar
road.
(iii.) Route J. Errio
to J. Talodi, viâ Tosi and J. Meselli.
J. Errio
—
—
Road runs S.W. through thorn
bush over cotton soil. Open country both sides; also
cultivation.
0
5½
Pass small hill on
right.
3
8½
Hillock ¼ mile away on
left.
½
9
Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12
yards broad.
Tosi
½
9½
Tosi village of about 500
Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas, under Sheikh El Fadl Didigair,
lying at south end of small stony hill 400 or 500 feet high. Water
supply poor. Supplies poor.
4½
14
Road now passes between hills
and drops down about 100 feet over an “agaba,” and leads through
cotton soil for 1 mile to
Khor Kagala
2¾
16¾
A broad shallow khor in thick
bush. A hill about 300 feet high on right of crossing. Good
going.
K. El Kirki
2¼
19
Khor El Kirki—small.
J. Meselli
2
21
J. Meselli—on right.
K. Um Sinin
2
23
Khor Um Sinin; forest
land.
K. Joghan
5
28
Khor Joghan; forest
land.
½
28½
Crosses ridge and drops down
about 100 feet to
Amuti
1½
30
300 yards on left of road
several big pools of clear good water. Best watering place; better
than Tosi and Talodi after February. Good going to
Um Dual
5½
35½
A small hillock and (in
January, 1904) a pool of clear water 120 yards long, 40 yards wide,
4 feet deep. No shade.
Cultivation by people of
Talodi. About 1½ or 2 miles south is an odd needle-shaped rock some
200 feet high, visible for 20 miles round.
Road now leads through thick
forest for 4 miles. Roan antelope seen.
4
39½
Cotton soil and light
bush.
K. Abu Um Jamad
1
40½
The Khor Abd Um Jamad no
obstacle in dry weather. Cultivation begins again.
Talodi (Tebeldia)
3
43½
The village of Tebeldia, at
E.N.E. corner of Talodi, is passed. It lies a mile away in valley
to right.
Talodi (Felaita)
1
44½
Village of Felaita and
barracks of half company 12th Sudanese.
J. Talodi is a rugged
precipitous mountain, about 1,300 feet high and 28 miles in
circumference. On its eastern face is a valley running a short way
into mountain (village of Felaita in opening), which is said to
communicate by a rough path, known as “Darb El Haramia,” with a
corresponding valley on the western face.
There are three villages, all
nominally under the head sheikh, an old man called Sherif Wad Abu
Omo:—
Tebeldia,
population
800,
Sheikh
Mamun.
Felaita,
„
2,200,
„
Abdalla Shamsham.
Ageira,
„
800,
„
Shanna Wad El Aris.
The last named village lies
some 7 miles away to the S.W. of the mountain. The inhabitants are
descendants of freed and escaped slaves of the Homr. There is a
small colony of true Nubas at the south end of the mountain.
They used to be notorious for
their success in raiding. They possess about 300 or 400 rifles.
Cultivation insufficient for their own needs. Water supply poor.
They begin to trade for grain in February with the Nubas of J.
Moro, at Kororak.
Half company 12th Sudanese
and Mamuria at Felaita.
(iv.) J. Errio to J.
Talodi, viâ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma
(February, 1904).
J. Errio
—
Road leads out S.W. for ½
mile, then west and through cultivation. Good going.
2½
2½
A khor—rough broken
ground.
1¾
4¼
A broad shallow kohr.
2¾
7
Khor 11 feet deep. Had to
dismount.
¼
7¼
Khor 10 feet deep. Dom
palms.
3¾
11
Slight descent to deep broad
kohr, travel along it for 400 yards, and then climb out.
½
11½
Beginning to ascend a ridge
among rough rocky hills.
1¼
12¾
Track leads over a smooth
gravelly plateau for 1 mile.
1
13¾
Road descends to cultivation;
rough stony going.
1
14¾
Track leads sharp to right
down rocky side of hill into a grassy valley about 3 miles
long.
½
15¼
Cross broad sandy khor, with
rivulet a yard wide in centre (February, 1904). Water disappears a
mile further down. Dom palms.
Tira El Akhdar
½
15¾
Good camping place under
shady trees by stream. The Nuba village is situated on the hills to
the west of the valley, which is only ½ mile wide.
They possess few rifles, but many spears and
clubs. Population about 1,200, under Meks
(1)
Shega.
(2)
Amiri.
(3)
Atuira.
(4)
El Gamal.
(5)
Ti.
They are greatly feared and
hated by surrounding Jebels, owing to their raids. They are true
Nuban, and wear no clothing. They own a lot of cattle and
goats.
4
19¾
The track, rough and stony,
leads S. along the edge of Western hills of the valley, and turns
to the right (W.) over a slight rise, a “nek” or ridge, and runs
through forest land. Going better. Gravel.
2½
22¼
Track turns slightly N., and
passes by a khor, banks 20 feet, breadth of all channels 100 yards,
and then runs through thick forest. Good going.
7
29¼
Crosses a
broad sandy khor 50 to 90 yards wide, and runs along W. bank half
mile to Tiramandi camp. Village is two miles away to the S.W., on a
spur of the hill.
Tiramandi
½
29¾
Mek Nuwai; population, 700
Nubas. Very poor, and had been lately raided, very few cattle, but
are clearing forest along W. bank of khor for cultivation. No
rifles seen.
2
31¾
Track leads S.W. from camp,
one mile to village, and then passes over low spur below village
round S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough and stony, much cut up by
small khors.
2
33¾
Gold is found here in the
rainy season, the rain displacing rocks and stones on the ridge to
the N. side of the road. The people search for it among the debris.
They state that by hard work a man can get sufficient to pay his
tribute (apparently not worth working).
1¼
35
Road crosses a broad khor,
and the hills on right of road trend away to the N.W.
Many small khors are crossed.
Road bends round Southern end of a ridge at right angle to
road.
4
39
Road crosses a broad sandy
khor. Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on right to the khor. After
crossing, road bends round to left (S.), along Eastern face of
Kindirma.
Kindirma
1¾
40¾
A valley in the Eastern face
of a mountain down which a stream forms a succession of waterfalls
and deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across, and six feet deep. A rough
path leads up along the waterfall to the top of the ridge, some 400
or 500 feet, and on either side the mountain rises nearly sheer to
a height of 110 feet. The Nubas live on top of the right or
Northern side, and their village is approached by a precipitous
path winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing in
clefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up.
On reaching the top of the
ridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains which
curve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and unite
again three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the
stream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over the
ridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma.
The Mek’s name is Gandal. The
population is about 800 or 1,000. They have about 20 or 30 rifles.
Lots of cultivation, both in the valley, inside the mountain, and
down by the road below, but few cattle. Have suffered a good deal
from raids.
Road leads due S. through
thick bush towards small jebel, in direction of E. corner of
Talodi. Good going.
1
41¾
Light forest.
2
43¾
Cross broad sandy khor.
J. Mavlul
2
45¾
A small
jebel, known as J. Mavlul, about a mile long, is passed. Close to
road on left a small village on the N.E. spur of Talodi. Good view
of J. Eliri and all surrounding country.
6¼
52
Talodi
1¼
53¼
Corner of main jebel and
village of Tebeldia on right in valley.
2¼
55½
Felaita village entrance to
valley. Mamuria and military post. Wells and water three feet from
surface (February, 1904).
(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.
The track leads straight out
from the village of Felaita towards the centre of J. Eliri. First
three miles good going through light bush.
3
3
Bush gets thicker. Cotton
soil, bad going.
A hillock
4½
7½
A small hill on the left is
passed.
J. Abu Ghor
3
10½
Track leads S.E. round Jebel
Abu Ghor, a small hill; better going.
4¼
14¾
Thick bamboo clumps
obstructing track for four miles.
7
21¾
Bad going. Cotton soil.
1½
23¼
Good going. Light bush.
Tebeldia wells
1¼
24½
Two small wells in depression
in the ground, water two feet from surface, only sufficient for a
dozen camels. Takes an hour to fill again.
El Egheibish
3½
28
A string of five or six
wells; sufficient water for 200 men and animals. Road hence much
cut up by small khors. Lots of deleib palms.
Taira village (J. Eliri)
4
32
Small village at foot of
mountain; population, about 800 revolted slaves of the Rowauga
tribe of the Hawazma Arabs; much water and cultivation; Sheikh
Rizkalla, 20 rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of sheep and goats.
Road good from Taira through
dura cultivation and light thorn bush.
Tanguru
4
36
A large village, population
about 1,100 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma
Arabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50
rifles.
Much water and cultivation, a
stream falls from the cultivated plateau 700 feet above in the
mountains and there are many wells besides. There is a rough track
leading up the glen alongside the waterfall to the Nuba village on
top (Sultan Bilula); population, 1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes at
all, very few rifles, all spears and knobkerries, lots of dura,
cattle and sheep. They hold little or no communication with the
villages below; able to hold their own in case of raids.
Supplies sufficient for 500
men for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo, a jebel to the S. Good road
round jebel to Dallass.
Dallass
4½
40½
Small village; population,
about 600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali tribe of the Hawazma Arabs.
Sheikh Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles, sufficient cultivation and
water for own needs.
Lakolo
2
42½
Good road round jebel, but
stony; could be easily improved. Large village; population, about
1,200 revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs.
Sheikhs Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.
Lots of water and
cultivation. Road hence up spur of mountain to Nuba village on top.
A solitary hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was told the river was 1½
days’ journey due S., and that the people took 4 or 5 days more
from there to Kodok by boats. Many cattle and goats. About 50
rifles.
(vi.) J. Eliri
(Lakolo) to J. El Amira.
J. Eliri
—
½
Pass hill on right.
1
1½
Cross khor.
2½
4
Cotton soil and thick thorn
trees—very bad going.
Village
2
6
Good
going; road curves round jebel by rocks, and reaches village among
deleib palms and tebeldi trees. Little cultivation and poor water
supply; population, about 200, no arms; very poor. Remains of Nuba
village on top. Was told the Nubas left the jebel and went S. to
river to live in Dinka country a year ago. River said to be 1½
days’ journey due S. A few sheep and goats.
2¼
8¼
Road hence to J. Kuronde,
about 5 miles S.W.
(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J.
Werna.
Lakolo
—
—
—
½
Road runs E., cross khor
which runs along right of road.
½
1
Cross khor. Road runs between
low parallel ridges of hills named Lohno. Rough and stony.
1
2
Road bends sharp to
left.
Lohno
½
2½
Village of Lohno, small,
population about 200. Very little cultivation, bad water supply.
Road now bends to right, crossing rocky ridge.
½
3
Cross khor, bad going.
¼
3¼
Cross big deep khor, and turn
sharp to right.
¼
3½
Recross big khor, road turns
sharp to left.
½
4
Cross another khor.
½
4½
Going becomes better, road
runs through forest land.
3¼
7¾
Cross khor.
¼
8
Cross khor.
1
9
Going becomes rough.
3½
12½
Turns sharp to left to Nuba
village of
Tekeim
½
13
Tekeim, small village;
population about 400; good water supply; little cultivation, very
few cattle, but lots of goats.
1½
14½
A cross road leads to the
Tekeim dura fields.
½
15
An “agaba.” Camels had to be
led up; cross a khor other side of “agaba.”
1
16
Cross another khor, going
becomes better.
1¾
17¾
Cross a khor, track leaves
hills, good going.
El Girid
1¼
19
A cone-shaped peak amongst
hills to right known as El Girid, about 3 miles off. Bush very
open.
4
23
Bad going, cotton soil
begins, a most dreary view.
4
27
Going better.
1
28
Small hill ½ mile to
right.
2
30
Low hills ½ mile on
left.
4
34
Cross khor.
Werna
1
35
Enter Werna hills, a group of
five or six rocky hills about 300 to 400 feet high on smooth open
ground.
Population about 1,100,
mainly revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs under
Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original population was Nuba, but are now
very much in the back ground. The real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They
have about 40 rifles.
Plenty of water and
cultivation, few cattle, many goats. People trade to river at
Kodok.
(viii.) J. Werna to
Lukka, viâ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.
Werna
—
—
—
2
Road takes a wide curve out
N. (to right) to avoid a swamp which exists all the year round.
Good going until cotton soil, then bad going. Very open
country.
Swamp
2¼
4¼
Cross 100 yards of marshy
ground (end of the swamp).
¾
5
Cultivation for ½ mile, huge
crops of dura.
½
5½
Road turns to left over very
bad cotton soil and through dense thorn trees.
3
8½
A big khor, water standing in
pools 100 yards long and 4 feet deep. Duck of two kinds and lots of
game. Roan antelope and tetel.
1½
10
Firm ground; good going.
1
11
Cultivation as far as
Morung.
Morung
2
13
Village on conical hill;
population: Kawahla tribe of Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with Nubas.
Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.
Population about 1,000; 30
rifles. A fula supplies village with water until end of January;
they then open wells. Good water supply. Plenty of cattle, sheep,
goats and donkeys.
After leaving Morung for first 13½ miles
going very good, through light bush and forest, perfectly flat; no
hills.
13½
26½
A khor, cotton soil and thorn
bush begins.
1
27½
Good going again.
1½
29
Cotton soil, and a big khor
with pools of water, dry by end of February.
1½
30½
A khor, bad going.
1
31½
Good going.
1
32½
Road bends to right, towards
S.E. corner of Gedir, and runs along base to corner.
4
36½
Track
runs round corner and bends sharp to left to village of Mek Bosh,
of Gedir. Population about 1,200, about 60 rifles; fair water
supply 10 feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Population:
Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.
Gedir
½
37
Two other villages, Semat and
Gheibish, described on road to Kologi.
Road leaves Mek Bosh’s
village and runs round another spur at E. end of jebel, passing the
Mahdi’s rock where he used to preach to the people, and follows
North-eastern face.
Semat
1
38
Small village of Semat, about
200 people.
1½
39½
Track enters gorge, rough,
stony going—between main jebel and a ridge of rocky hills running
out N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.
El Gheibish
1
40½
Road clears N. end of the
mountain, and at the end of a spur is El Gheibish, a small village
of about 400 population, 40 rifles; fair water supply, lying among
dom palms. Road hence straight to J. Lukka.
1¼
41¾
Another road leads over very
bad cotton soil to a khor, light thorn bush, bad going, cotton
soil.
2½
44¼
Firm
ground and good going through light forest, passing one village at
11 miles, and reach main village of Kologi, lying among dom palms
under the hill.
4¾
49
Kologi villages
—
—
Population of the two
villages, about 1,500. They are sedentary Arabs (much crossed by
Nubas) of the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Gadum
Hassib El Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.
No arms to speak of; quiet
people; do not raid. Fair water supply from wells; water eight feet
from surface. Much dura cultivation. Many cattle, sheep and
goats.
Road leads out due N. towards
J. Lukka.
K. Harrug
¾
49¾
The khor Harrug; no
obstacle.
½
50¼
Cross a ridge; rough stony
going. Road leads straight towards Lukka between small rocky
hills.
3¾
54
Road turns to right to get
round Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through thick thorn bush, and
across broken stony ground and small khors and ridges, and bending
round to left enters a valley and the village of Lukka.
Lukka
2¼
56¼
Kawahla Arabs, with a cross
of Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large village of 1,000 people; no
rifles to speak of. Quiet people; do not raid. Much dura
cultivation. Water supply bad at camping place and insufficient for
50 men and animals. Good clear water is obtained about 600 feet up
the mountain, where the Nuba colony get their water. Good camping
ground. Shade. Plenty of supplies, cattle, sheep, and goats.
(ix.) J. Talodi to J.
Kadugli, viâ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra and
Sema.
Talodi (Felaita)
—
—
Road
leads S.W. along face of mountain, through the villages of Felaita,
and turns W., following Southern and South-western face along the
base of the hills.
—
2
J. Burham is seen 8 or 10
miles off to the W., and J. Krongo a long way off to the
W.S.W.
5
7
Here the
road leaves the mountain and strikes off across the plain in a
W.N.W. direction over cotton soil to a swamp, water one foot from
surface (February, 1904).
Swamp
½
7½
2
9½
Firm, good going.
5
14½
A small rocky wooded hillock
on right of road.
Kororak
6
20½
The road, skirting N.E.
corner of Durham, leads straight to Kororak, a Nuba village in J.
Moro. The village is high up on the face of the cliff. Population,
about 1,500. The various Meks’ names are:—
(1)
Tambura.
(2)
Toto El Azrak.
(3)
Toto Agari.
Plenty of dura, very few
cattle or sheep; no rifles.
People of Talodi come here to
buy grain.
Mountains of Digig and
Masakin to south. Road follows base of hills at Kororak for 1 mile,
and then strikes off West across rough gravelly soil and thorn
bush.
2
22½
Cotton soil and thick thorn
bush.
1
23½
Firm ground and light
bush.
Dorein
3½
27
Road strikes the hills again
at Um Dorein. Very small Nuba village on spur on left of road;
small hill on right. Meks’ names are:—
(1)
Toto El Ahmah;
(2)
Abu Falang.
Road passes over ridge, still
going West over a small cultivated plain, with hills ½ mile away to
left and ¾ mile on right.
½
27½
Small rocky ridge in front.
Best road leads to the left and then turns sharp to right round the
ridge and over broken rocky ground.
1
28½
Track descends on to very bad
broken cotton soil. Impassable swamp in rains for animals.
Well
1¼
29¾
Track strikes mountain again.
Well (water 2 feet from surface) on side of road after leaving the
swamp.
2
31¾
Road runs West along south
face of hill and at 2 miles turns half right. Good going.
1
32¾
Road leaves J. Moro and
strikes off W.N.W. across plain through light bush; very good going
to
Homra
4½
37¼
Large Arab village,
population 1,200. Great number of cattle, sheep, and goats. Wells,
water 8 feet from surface.
K. Meshisha
1½
38¾
Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40
yards across, 5 feet deep.
1½
40¼
More Arab encampments,
inhabited in rainy season, but deserted now (March, 1904).
1
41¼
Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8
yards wide. Alternate cotton soil and fair going through thick
thorn bush to
3½
44¾
A khor known at Sema and
Kadugli as the “Wadi.” A small hill on right; cotton soil.
5
49¾
Alternate good and bad going
through thorn bush.
½
50¼
A shallow khor; light
bush.
Sema
1½
51¾
Village of Sema, open stony
country at foot of hills; population about 300. Mek Guru.
Three or four wells. Water 15
feet; bad supply; only sufficient for five or six men and animals
at a time.
From here road turns N.W. and
follows base of hills over stony ground.
1
52¾
Rough going; pass small rocky
hill on right; a good deal of thorn bush.
2
54¾
Track becomes clearer and
leads over cotton soil past the wells in a khor to
Kadugli
1
55¾
Kadugli (Arab encampment), a
few tukls against the S.W. end of a ridge of small hills. Kadugli
Nuba village is 1 mile due E. on the main range called Ghuhub.
The Mek is Rahal Andal, an
energetic and trustworthy man. Has great influence for 50 miles
round.
The Sudanese infantry
barracks, ½ company, are just beyond the encampment, and the
garrison has opened several wells of excellent clear water 6 feet
from surface.
Supplies unlimited from
Kadugli. Population of village about 1,200. They have about 50
rifles.
[28]Between J. Kon and Taiara there is now a
more direct road, viâ Yasin (W. Lloyd, 1903), but water is
said to be very scarce (More, 1904).
[29]It is better to go to Bir El Wuz, N. of J.
Um Durrag.—H. H. S. M.
[31]In October 1900 Captain W. Lloyd found
several pools of water from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and 4 feet
deep; probably rain-water.
[32]There is a more direct road from Dilling to
J. Gulfan, 26 miles.
[33]There is an upper road which does not cross
Khor Abu Habl at all. Distance by it much the same and it is more
practicable in the rains. It passes W. of H. Gad El Kerim.
CHAPTER IX. — 106.—SELIMA to NILE opposite KOSHA. — 107.—DONGOLA to LAGIA EL KEBIR (ARBAIN ROAD). — 108.—DONGOLA to BIR SULTAN (ARBAIN ROAD). — 109.—DEBBA to EL OBEID. — 110.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN. — 111.—DEBBA to OMDURMAN, viâ ELAI. — 112.—AMBUGOL or KORTI to METEMMA. — 113.—KORTI to BAYUDA and SEDEIRI. — 114.—MEROWE to JAKDUL. — 115.—MEROWE to BERBER, viâ SANI. — 116.—SANI to EL ZUMA (NILE) viâ JURA. — 117.—JURA to KIRBEKAN ( about 1 mile S.W. of Site of Battle ). — 118.—OMDURMAN to GABRA. — 119.—GABRA to KORTI. — 120.—KORTI to BAYUDA WELLS. — 121.—BAYUDA WELLS to TANGASI MARKET.
(NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.)
By Captain H. Hodgson,
February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Selima
—
—
Track to river bears at first at 152°,
and after ascending out of valley turns, and, bearing to point on
road 3 miles away, where the trees of Selima are last sighted, is
118° (Magnetic). On top of rise, 6 miles out from well, a pair of
hills are sighted on horizon, at bearing of 124° (Magnetic), which
are close to the track and about half way to river. These twin
hills of conical shape must not be confused with another pair lying
about 80° or 90°. Track diverges northwards slightly, and runs at
bearing of 119° to a conspicuous and isolated peak; best route lies
close to the N. of this peak. Country flat; a sandy plain, with few
land marks.
First halt
38½
38½
Halted after going 2 miles past twin
peaks.
River Nile, opposite to Kosha
41
79½
The regular track to the river goes to
Sagiet El Abd, and runs to S. of a mass of black rocky hills lying
in the centre of a sandy plain. These hills are spoken of as Jebel
El Tult. I marched to the N. of these hills, and struck the river
opposite to Ginnis, the land mark being the hill marked Jebel Hamra
on Kosha sheet. General direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I am told,
the mountain to march on when going to Sagiet El Abd.
By Captain H. Hodgson, December 16
to December 31, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Dongola
—
—
From Dongola the route lies nearly due W.
to Um Hellal; the chief landmark is Jebel Nosab. After leaving
Nosab there is a bad bit of going, entailing about ½ hour’s
walking, descending into valley containing the wells. Camels can
trot the rest of the way.
Um Hellal Well
20
20
Is good sweet water; the water lies about
9 feet from the surface; plenty of grazing for camels. About seven
families live here through the winter, and it is possible to get
goat’s milk and a few eggs and dates. A ruined fort, probably 100
years old, with a well in the yard (water 12 feet from surface) is
about ¾ mile away; it is called El Gab, and the whole oasis seems
to take its name from it. Um Hellal is also called Gab El
Tahtani.
El Sawani
3
23
El Sawani has three wells close together.
A number of sunt trees give very good shade. There are more date
palms and it is a better camping-ground than either Shemsi or Um
Hellal. Water is good, and about 10 feet from the surface; the
wells are in constant use. About eleven families live here through
the winter, considerably more during the summer.
Gawit
—
—
Water reported near surface and easily
obtained; good browsing, very little shade; all dom palms burnt by
dervishes.
Shemsi
10
33
Water near surface, in clay soil and
plentiful; one pan sufficient for my party (twenty camels and
eighteen men) taking water for 4 days. Two or three good shady
clumps of trees and plenty of browsing for camels. It would be
difficult to pitch tents owing to deep sand. The landmark for
Shemsi is Jebel Bowarib, which is a double hill of two small peaks
of black volcanic rock, standing solitary about 3 miles N.W.
Butta
—
—
I did not visit the well, as all the
guides agreed the water was brackish and bad; the landmark from
Shemsi is a low round hill, thus, nearly covered with yellow sand,
distinctive, as surrounding hills are peaked and black rocky hills.
There are apparently about five hills surrounding the water pans,
each called Jebel Butta.
Jebel Fantoria
9
42
About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi; stands
out well, and can be seen at a long distance. Charles Neufeld was
captured by the dervishes close to this hill.
Jebel Abiad
56
98
Between Selem (18½ miles from Shemsi),
where there are some bushes, and Lagia there is nothing for camels
to feed on, and forage must be carried. I did not see the track of
any living thing, either when going or on return. There are no
special names for any hills except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of a
chalk range, which ends in an abrupt cliff and can be seen at a
long distance.
El Gir
36
134
There was reported to be water last year.
We dug a well to depth of 7 feet, without result. The Arabs state
the country is more dried up this year than it has been since the
date of the battle of Toski.
Lagia Amran
19½
153½
Lagia the Less, also called Lagia Amran,
from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 8 miles long
by 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are only
two entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching.
Water lies within a foot of the surface, and is very plentiful.
Ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand; the Arabs say
there was formerly no sand, and that during last few years it is
gradually covering ground, probably owing to dry seasons.
My party dug a water pan out of the clay
(3½ feet deep and 12 feet circumference). It was quite full of good
water, with a certain amount of clay in solution, which settled on
standing, on our return 2 days later. Without this pan there was a
plentiful supply of water from older diggings which the camel-men
cleared of sand. There are some bushes and small trees, about ½
mile from the water, which afford feeding for camels. We also found
water about ½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.
Lagia Kebir
12½
166
Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six pans of
water; good and near the surface, springing from similar soil to
Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. We dug for water in three
likely places, about ¼ mile to the W., without result. The wells
lie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to ten
small trees about 3½ miles to W. giving a little feeding for
camels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of
hills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reaching
summit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be
seen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is no
grazing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natron
is found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. The tracks
spread considerably and extend across a width of over a mile.
An oasis, called Tura, is reported to lie
4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which
is visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh Fadl El
Mula is the only one of the party who had been there, and he said
the water is very bad. Except for the above, the guides say they
have no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there
is no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of
Lagia.
By Captain H. Hodgson,
February, 1903.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Dongola, or Gharbi Dongola
—
—
After half an hour’s marching, reached
buildings of former District, which stand 1 mile from mosque on E.
bank by range-finder, and at an angle of 78° (magnetic). Left at 9
a.m. Going easy over hard sand. Marched parallel with river until
near Kheleiwa as marked on map (Debba Sheet 45, E.), then turned W.
and marched about 2 hours to well.
At Kheleiwa on river there are old ruins.
A legend has it that there is an underground passage from these
ruins to the well in the desert to the W.
Kheleiwa Well (1st halt)
19¾
19¾
Kheleiwa well stands in the centre of a
mound covered with broken burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8 feet from
the surface is built with stone, then it is dug into solid rock; on
lowering a candle to within 6 feet of the water, the sides
disappear from view, and apparently there is a wide chamber at
bottom of well; candle burnt freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth of
well to water 96 feet.
Bir El Marghum (2nd halt)
32¼
52
Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is well
defined, being the main road from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is easy
going the whole way, direction about 330° (magnetic). About 24
miles from Kheleiwa Well ground begins to fall, and the Wadi El Gab
may be said to begin.
El Marghum is the most southern well in
El Gab and one of the deepest, being about 20 feet deep before
reaching water, and is stone lined, water good, cool, and pleasant
to drink, depth of water 3½ feet, and reported always plentiful.
This well is said to be 6 hours from Khandak with an easy road.
Near well are one or two good sayal trees and selem bushes, but no
date palms.
Awene
—
—
Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from El
Marghum to Um Hagar, direction 330°. After 1½ miles a track
branches to Shoki at direction 295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla, the
head of the Gunganab, one of the largest of the Kababish
sub-tribes, lives at Awene. The water of this well is about 8 feet
from surface and luke warm, it lies about 6 miles from Marghum;
there are a number of fine sayal trees about, as well as date and
dom palms; good shade.
El Agari
—
—
This is a small well without stone
facing, water cooler and pleasanter to drink than Awene, lies 1½
miles from latter. Surrounded by selem bushes.
Id Wad Medawi
—
—
Dwelling of the former Sheikh of
Gunganab, an old man, reported age 115 years, very feeble; a number
of date trees near here, and track to Millan passes a number of
tukls used during date harvest season.
Bir Millan
14
66
This well, about 14 miles from Marghum,
is surrounded by about 20 big sayal trees giving good shade, there
is also a lot of littel shrub on dunes near; it is impossible to
approach well from S., owing to the shifting sand dunes; this well
is practically the limit of the Wadi El Gab. Water good and
plentiful.
From Millan track runs nearly due W.,
crossing a district called Imsinni, where a number of goats are
grazed, being watered every third day at Millan.
Um Hagar (3rd Halt)
6½
72½
A stone-lined well, at present filled
with sand to within 6 feet of the mouth. Sand is damp and might
easily be cleared. The Kababish do not use well for fear of the
Bedaiat, who raided this well and Matassi in 1902. Good grazing for
camels.
Matassi (4th halt)
9
81½
From Um Hagar track runs nearly due W.,
the going is indifferent; a little grazing on hadr on the way.
Matassi lies in a plain some 5 or 6 square miles in extent; water
is very plentiful and about 3 feet from surface; watered 70 or 80
camels from the four or five pans that were open with ease; the
water is cool, pleasant to drink, and seems to have the property of
cooling very rapidly after boiling. Kababish captured camels from
Bedaiat here two years ago. A few wild date palms, but practically
no shelter from sun or wind.
Murrat
5
86½
General direction W. Murrat, about 5
miles from Mutassi, is a low-lying plain, containing a few selem
bushes, and three or four groups of date and dom palms; water
easily found, but it is bitter and undrinkable; going fair; black
rock predominates.
El Hofra
4½
91
A plain encircled on E. and S. by a
ridge, and on the N. by high sand dunes, some littel shrub, and a
few dom palms. One dom palm which formerly had a well next it is
now buried in a sand dune which has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10
years. No shelter from N. wind or sun.
Sixth halt
23½
114½
General direction 230° to 240°, going
easy; about 12th or 13th mile from El Hofra found a few patches of
grass, indicating rain here last season. About 17th mile going
becomes more difficult and ground rises. At 20th mile a high
conical (?) is reached, from which plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be
seen; erected a pile of stones at this point. Ground then slopes
down, and track lies through a depression until at 23rd mile a
plain is reached, extending 17 miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad. Here
there is some hadr grass, affording some grazing. The plain is
scattered with lava-like stones.
Seventh halt (on plateau of J.
Abiad)
32½
147
General direction due W. to a ravine in
Jebel Abiad. The J. Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum, running from
N. to S.; it is the same range as is skirted by track from Dongola
to Lagia Wells. After ascending bluff direction is W.S.W., across a
plateau with a very gentle slope down towards the W.; surface is
shingle scattered with agates and flints. Could obtain no shelter
to halt near.
Tundubi (8th halt)
24
171
About 1 hour after leaving last halt
passed a rocky patch of ground, where the track is well defined,
the only place where old lines of tracks are seen, being about 18
miles from bluff. About 28 miles from bluff crossed a valley
containing gottab grass and some other grazing. At Tundubi a well
had been opened recently, and my party, after deepening it to
nearly 30 feet, were able to water about six camels and fill up
skins. Latest report is that the well has been filled in
maliciously. There is abundance of gottab, hadr, and akol, giving
good grazing, also some fine tundub trees and selem bushes. A
quantity of senna also grows here.
Ninth halt
27
198
General direction W.S.W. (at 250° by P.
compass), very easy undulating country.
Tenth halt
12½
210½
About 31 miles from Tundubi met a
caravan, on descending into a valley, along which the track lies.
Easy going. No shelter. Saw ostrich tracks.
Eleventh halt
28½
239
Easy going all day; general direction W.
Jebel Raya is seen some 10 miles away to the S.; it lies on the
road from El Ain to Bir Sultan. Found a good place to halt, with a
few tundub trees and some hadr scrub.
Twelfth halt
23
262
Same general direction W. After 3 miles
descended into a deep sandy khor, containing some hadr scrub
(difficult going), marched along it for an hour in direction 250°;
then crossed a rocky ridge for 10 miles, then an open plain of
shingle for 5 miles, and down another khor of deep sand with clumps
of hadr scrub in it, direction 260°. Then direction changed
constantly to avoid conical hills. Halted on rocky ground.
Milani
—
—
Two hours’ easy marching and then 2 hours
across an exposed plateau of rocky ground, before reaching a steep
descent down to Milani; a thick clump of selem trees in the Natron
valley. At Milani water is apparently very plentiful, the sand
between the dunes being wet and brown. Did not try to obtain water,
as, though drinkable, it is reported not to be so good as the water
found at Sultan, 3 miles away.
Bir Sultan
—
—
Sultan, a low-lying area of about a ¼
mile square of uneven ground covered with tussocks of halfa grass.
Water easily obtained and plentiful. I found two or three pans
open, at which animals can get to the water themselves. There are
five or six date palms, also grasses such as tamam, halfa, taklis,
but no shrubs, at Sultan. It lies nearly due S. of J. Kashaf.
Natron diggings (13th halt)
21
283
The best natron bed lies about 2 miles
away from the water at Sultan by the shortest and most direct route
to the river, it is probably not more than 250 miles instead of the
283 I travelled. The diggings have the appearance of a sandy salt
pan, from which sea water has run off, the sand being encrusted
with a white salt-like substance. To obtain the natron the upper
surface of sand, about 2 inches to 4 inches, is cleared away, until
the natron, a substance resembling rock salt, is reached. The top
part is usually bad, being half sand; then there is a seam of ½
inch to 2 inches of good natron, again below a little bad natron,
and below all sand again. Sometimes all the natron is spoilt by
being mixed with sand. The whole place is scattered with scores and
scores of oryx and addax horns, which seem to have been the tool,
since time immemorial, with which to dig out the natron.
Jebel Kashaf
—
—
Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from the
natron diggings, and E. of them at direction 133°; it is a high
conical hill centrally situated in the northern part of the valley,
and from its summit the whole valley and various halting places are
overlooked. To the S. and S.W. is a level plain, reaching to the
horizon without landmarks.
The Arbain road runs S.S.W. apparently,
to a place called Domi (1 day), where there are a few dom palms,
and then from there branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa, which latter
is reported to be 5 or 6 days from Natron valley in a S.W.
direction.
(Route during Rains).
Compiled from Various Sources,
April, 1903.
(Distances only roughly
approximate).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Debba
—
—
Um Belila
35
35
Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about 12 feet
down to water’s edge. Excellent water and any quantity, amount
depends on digging.
El Amra
43
78
Water good and
plentiful, obtainable by digging in sandy bed of wadi. From here
during the rains travellers go to Hobagi, where there is a hofra
which contains no water in the dry season.
Hobagi
67
145
Haraza
60
205
Water good and plentiful from a spring at
foot of jebel. From thence viâ Kajmar to El Obeid.
Vide also route 81, Chap.
VIII.
N.B.—During the dry season, merchants do not travel viâ
Hobagi, as the hofra there is then dry. A considerable détour is
made from El Amra to Elai, thence to Habisa, where there many
wells, and thence to Bagbag Wells and Kajmar.
Major H. V. Ravenscroft,
January, 1900.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Debba Camp
—
—
On leaving camp, a southerly direction is
taken over sandy ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on right.
J. Khattab
7
7
Hill on either side of track.
J. Kufri
3
10
Two wells on track, one in use, recently
repaired by Government.
J. Birget El Merafib
11
21
Water about 55 feet from surface; no
rope, so could not taste it. Six miles from left of track.
Open desert.
Kaser El Fokani
4
25
One old well called Atesh, closed for a
long time. Well-marked track.
Khor Kaser
1
26
On right of track, 400 yards wide. After
this the road runs in khor for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.
El Magari
10⅔
36⅔
J. Nesub El Arda
8
44⅔
Range of hills 1½ miles from right of
track. After this the hills gradually close in to right of
track.
3⅓
48
Track passes over low hills. Nesub El
Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile another small detached hill,
similar to El Magari, and low hills on right, 400 yards from
track.
Wadi Maleiga
2
50
Good grazing for camels.
Abu Sayal
4
54
Good water in small khor about 600 yards
from right of track can be got for a distance of 150 yards by
digging 8 feet to 10 feet from surface. One small green tree and
usher bushes mark spot. Water at present plentiful, but guides
state that in dry season supply becomes small. No people here.
J. Nesub El Gelud
1⅓
55⅓
Range of hills 1,500 yards on right of
track. No more hills on left.
Wadi Gelud
1⅔
57
One well reported under hill, supply
small in dry season, about 3 miles from right of track. Khor 500
yards wide. Good grazing for camels.
Ereishat
5⅔
62⅔
Dry grass and a few bushes. In Gordon’s
time there was a large shelter here for travellers and
merchants.
J. Nesub El Shabra
—
—
Three miles from right of track. A
continuous range of low hills on right. Open country on left.
J. Abu Sideir
2⅔
65⅓
Two miles from right of track. From here
a track to El Boreiga winds off ½ mile right.
Khor Abu Sideir
3⅓
66⅔
1,000 yards wide; good grazing for
camels. Range of black hills 3 miles from right of track. After 1⅓
miles track crosses another piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two other
small khors, the hills on right being then 6 miles off; on left
flat open country.
Wadi Umanagil
6
72⅔
After this low range
of hills 600 yards from and parallel to track, a few flocks grazing
here in Khor Boreiga. Good water in khor to be obtained for a
distance by digging 10 feet from surface.
Abu Heglig (water)
2
74⅔
Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide; good
grazing; six wells in use here.
2
76⅔
Track passes through gap in spur running
from two hills called Um Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from right
of track. J. El Minget (perhaps 30 miles distant) visible on left;
salt is obtained from this mountain.
Khor Wabri
1⅓
80
Hills 4 miles from right of track. Water
in khor like a canal, 4 yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches in depth.
After this open desert; rain marks; no track.
2⅓
82⅓
Small low sand hills on either side of
the track. Going a little heavy for first time since leaving
Debba.
Wadi Abu Hashim
5
87⅓
Broad khor; some grass and bushes; good
going; open desert on both sides.
Dondib El Gedi
1
88⅓
Old halting place, a few bushes on either
side of track. After heavy rains Arabs used to sow dura here.
Wadi Drais
1⅔
90
Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile from left
of track; well reported by guide under hill, spot marked by big
tree; well not in use. This well is in Wadi Abu Usher.
Wadi Abu Usher
2⅓
92⅓
Broad khor, dry grass and usher bushes.
J. Abu Usher 1 mile from right of track; long black hill.
Khor Derail
2⅔
95
Small khor; black rocks and hills on
right of track.
Abu Inderab
2
97
One well in khor in a sort of cave 15
feet deep; water plentiful, very clear and sweet. Men have to
descend into the cave to get water, which is 2½, feet deep; guide
reports water plentiful here at all times of the year. Sides of
cave hard sandy clay; diameter of cave at surface 6 feet, opening
out as you go down. Khor 120 yards wide. Usher bushes and some
grazing for camels. Range of black hills 200 feet to 300 feet high,
2½ miles from track on right and remaining parallel with it.
Khor El Kelab (Warrania)
3½
100½
Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes, nearly
all dying. J. El Kelab 3 miles from right of track, with low range
of black hills between track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓
miles.
Khor El Kelab (Godamia)
1⅓
101⅚
Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania), and the
two khors then run east on left of track. Jebel El Kelab a
continuous range 4 miles long, and 2 miles to 3 miles from right of
track.
3⅔
105½
Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from right of
track. Going sandy and good; tufts of dry grass.
Wadi Gumr (water)
2⅔
108⅙
To east of track, in khor, good place for
sowing dura after heavy rains. Excellent grazing about 3 miles west
of track; water very near surface and can always be got in khor by
digging. A few Arabs here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½ miles from
right of track.
J. Maagil Gumr
3
111⅙
One thousand yards from left of track,
with low spur running down to track, and another running parallel
with road for 1½ miles.
1
112⅙
Low hill on right, close to track, ½ mile
long.
⅔
112⅚
Continuous range of hills on right 3
miles off. A gap opposite here, 300 yards long, called Feg Gumr. J.
Wad El Melih begins after Feg Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under range
parallel to it.
Um Aragib
1⅓
114⅙
On left of track; bushes, black stones;
good going on ten to twelve camel tracks. Hill on right 5 miles
distant.
J. Maagil Wad El Melih
3⅓
117½
Small hill 300 yards from right of track,
with prominent point 60 feet high.
Khor Wad El Melih
1½
119
Many dead usher bushes.
1½
120½
On right, range of hills, after being 10
miles distant, comes in to within ½ mile of track, and from here
runs parallel with it.
2
122½
End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles from
right of track, after this J. El Shab.
Khor El Shab
3⅓
125⅚
El Shab 2½ miles from right of track;
good going.
Khor Abu Usher
3
128⅚
Small khor; dying osier bushes, some
grazing. Hills on right, 6 miles off. Khor on right winding from S.
crosses track here.
Well on right of road, no water, only in
rainy season.
Khor Abuera
4
132⅚
Running from J. Abuera about 10 miles on
right, khor finishes here, none on left of track. Excellent going,
well marked track, rain marks, flat open country, nothing in
sight.
Khor Bohat
7⅔
140½
Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat 10
miles on right.
Gedemtina
3
143½
Old halting place. A few bushes, hard,
sandy.
4⅓
147⅚
Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles off;
this khor stretches to Korti.
Wadi Medeisis
1⅔
149½
From hill on right joins Wadi Gabra, 2
miles from left of track.
Gabra Wells
6⅓
155⅚
Four wells, water always plentiful, very
sweet and clear, 55 feet from surface; many flocks and some cows
water here; wells in open space in middle of thick trees, with
zeriba for flocks.
Before arriving at wells track for 4
miles through trees, mostly sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty of
dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of wells with Yunis’ house in centre
and tukls of the Jehadia round it.
2
157⅚
Up to here marked track, after this only
visible at places owing to sand covering footprints on hard ground;
uneven, but going good; bushes and grass everywhere; good grazing;
gazelle.
Gerguf
3
160⅚
Goz Abu Dluet
5⅓
166⅙
Excellent dry grass and bushes for camel
grazing.
El Hanakat
4
170⅙
Low spur on either side of track, which
is more distinct here and in a sort of khor 80 yards wide full of
green bushes.
El Shegeig
2⅔
172⅚
About 1 mile on left of track; thick
trees.
Id Anal
4⅓
177⅙
Sandy; trees and grass; ground slightly
undulating.
Khor Id Anal
3⅓
180½
Very narrow khor; rain marks; sandy
going.
Gala Fashfos
8⅓
188⅚
Main peak of Omdurman mountain in sight
(Abu Leidat).
2
190⅚
Small round hill (El Gesi) on left, 3
miles off.
El Hafir
1⅓
192⅙
J. El Magrun on left.
El Auti
7⅓
199½
J. Abu Leidat on left.
El Adara
1
200½
1
201½
Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.
J. Nesub El Merkhiat
1
202½
One isolated hill 1,000 yards from left
of track.
Merkhiat Hills on right.
1⅓
204⅙
Track passes through gap in Nesub El
Merkhiat, one hill on left close to path, on right hills come down
close to track.
2⅔
206⅚
Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right. Going
sandy, heavier than during any other part of route.
Omdurman
1⅔
208½
Beginning of houses.
Note.—There are only four places on this
road which can be relied on for water at all times of the year,
viz., Wabri, Abu Inderab, Gumr, and Gabra.
Compiled from Various Sources,
April, 1903.
N.B. This is not the direct road, but water is obtainable more
frequently. Distances only roughly approximate.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Debba
—
—
Um Belila
35
35
Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feet
deep (James, 1902).
El Amri
43
78
Water plentiful (native information
only).
Abu Tawagia
25
103
One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James,
1902).
Elai
18
121
Water, scarce in dry season, from two
stone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is to
Gambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr
(25 miles). VideRoute 110.
Gambar
37
158
Wells, water (?) (native information
only).
Gabra
24
182
Water plentiful, from many wells.
Omdurman
56
238
From Reports by Mr. Fowler, 1871,
and numerous Officers of the Nile Expedition, 1885.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Ambugol
—
—
Possesses abundant indications, in the
remains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins in
the town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. It
was selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railway
should leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.
Korti
—
4
From Ambugol the caravan route follows
the bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branches
off into the desert in a westerly direction.
After about 25 miles, it strikes the Wadi
Abu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler states
that the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the course
of this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled with
all the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which are
invaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.
Water reservoirs, in tins, were
established in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectively
from Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs of
giving out.
Hambok
47
51
Wells.
El Haweiyat
8
59
Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310
gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open in
February, 1897.
Near the mountain of El Mesalima,
situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundance
of small timber.
In December, 1871, and January, 1872,
water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from the
Jebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal of
scrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during the
rains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.
Miljik
—
—
Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½
miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwater
like Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.
Abu Alik
—
—
Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supply
of water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track for
practical use.
Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig)
14
73
A plainly defined hill of curious shape.
One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb).
Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up a
narrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit for
camels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over
100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897,
but water unclean; tastes stagnant.
These estimates (14th February, 1885, by
Colonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, and
the lower 7 feet, below its high water level.
Abu Halfa
17
90
The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½
miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry river
bed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameter
from 3 feet to 4 feet.
Some distance further up the Wadi Abu
Halfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is said
never to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill,
surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.
Water is to be found nearly everywhere in
this wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible in
several places at the foot of rocks.
To a breadth of ½ mile on each side of
river bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass;
this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks and
herds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.
For about 6 miles after leaving Abu
Halfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance being
over a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up all
round.
The ground then rises gently, and enters
country wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarse
grass.
On the W. stand isolated rocks of
sandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range from
Abu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.
Jakdul
10
100
The wells of Jakdul, situated in one of
the torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the camel
track, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at a
different level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest of
the pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by
60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosed
between perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expended
in making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it is
evident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrents
rushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highest
water level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rock
to a considerable depth below the ground level.
These reservoirs contain always sufficient
water for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are never
dry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals,
and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The second
pool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of an
almost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in some
places nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from the
water.
The approximate length of this pool is
200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water is
excellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carry
drinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed to
raise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than the
second, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size is
about 80 feet by 15 feet.
A very tortuous and contracted channel,
about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms the
connection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this the
gorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a fine
reservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.
These wells, forming the chief water
supply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for the
requirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885,
but would not have lasted another fortnight.
About 1 mile up the ravine, above the
wells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) about
the same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in
1885. Numerous gazelle.
After leaving Jakdul, the country for a
few miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it is
for the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabas
grass and acacia.
El Fura
—
—
Eight or nine miles east of the wells of
Jakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells El
Fura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter,
and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in the
channel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated and
are unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequent
occurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation of
new holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface for
the use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidly
filled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the other
hand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as the
water level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle,
sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the custom
during the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every four
days, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they are
driven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. The
water at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful.
Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34]
had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of two
years.
These wells, being off the track, were
not used by the Desert Column, 1885.
Before reaching Jebel-el-Nus, a tract
where much drift sand prevails is reached. This drift sand usually
travels from the E. to the W., under the influence of the
prevailing winds, in the form of low mounds, in plan somewhat of a
crescent form, with the convex side turned towards the wind. This
slope of the mound is about 6 in 1, up which the sand constantly
travels to the summit of the ridge, and then rolls down the
sheltered side where the slope is 1 in 1, every sandhill having in
windy weather a slow but constantly progressive action. As all
traces of the beaten camel tracks are often obliterated, the
Jebel-el-Nus is an invaluable landmark. Bad, soft going here.
Jebel el-Nus
22
122
It is a remarkable conical rock of
sandstone, and stands out prominently in the landscape.
After this a valley is approached in
which the drift sand becomes heavier, but where trees and grass
grow abundantly.
On either side, however, the aspect of the
ground is most forbidding, the rocks surrounding the valley, seen
from an elevation, having the appearance of a troubled stormy
sea.
The drift sand continues in the valley
only for a distance of about 3 miles.
Jebel-el-Sergein
10
132
After crossing a grass-grown wady that
partially drains a range of hills on the W., Jebel-el-Sergein (or
Saddle Hill), another remarkable desert beacon, is passed.
The valley round Jebel-el-Sergein is
fertile and contains much grass, and many groups of trees. As it
affords good pasturage for camels, it is always selected for a
resting-place when the traveller cannot reach the nearest
wells.
Beyond this another wadi is crossed. It
is about a mile in width, and well covered with trees and
grass.
For the next 12 or 13 miles the route
runs through the district of Ummat Handal.
The first part of it is covered with much
broken sandstone and loose rock. This is followed for 3 or 4 miles
by a stretch of sand, which further on gives way to a more
agreeable country in which grass and trees are plentiful.
15½
147½
The scene of the battle (17th January
’85) was 2½ miles further on, ½ mile S. of the usual track.
Abu Klea (Abu Tleh)
4½
152
Some more wadis and low intervening hills
are crossed till the wells of Abu Tleh are reached.
These wells are sunk in the same manner
as those of El Fura, but, as the soil does not stand so well, they
are constantly falling in, and have, therefore, very frequently to
be reconstructed. The water is excellent for drinking, and the
supply is good, having failed only once within the 30 years
preceding 1872. These wells are directly on the camel track to
Metemma and are constantly visited by caravans. They also form a
favourite watering place for the flocks and herds of the
Arabs.
The route now enters a valley with grass
and trees, and after following it for some distance across a plain
covered with sand and black boulders, succeeded by a more
favourable district, capable of cultivation during the rains.
Shebakat
16
168
A little further on occurs the well of
Shebakat.
This well is also directly on the caravan
route. It is 12 feet in diameter and 50 feet in depth, excavated
through the sandstone rock to a bed of sandy shingle. It is situate
on an extensive plain amongst thick scrub and coarse grass, and as
there is no water channel in its vicinity, the supply must be
obtained from low-level springs. The water being brackish, it is
unfit for drinking purposes, and it is thick and clouded. The
supply is abundant and never failing in the driest seasons. Small
puddled basins are formed, as at other wells, on the ground surface
for the use of cattle.
An acacia forest, traversed by the Desert
Column on the night of 18th January, 1885, lies a mile or two S. of
the ordinary track hereabouts.
The track to Metemma now leads over light
scrub and tussocky gravel; that to Abu Khru or Khrug and Gubat is
similar, but with less scrub.
The caravan route ends at Metemma, which
is situated near the W. bank of the Nile, and is separated from the
desert by a low line of hills.
Metemma
8
176
A considerable tract of fertile land,
about 1,200 yards broad, dividing the town from the river, is
occasionally inundated during the season of the floods.
Metemma contained (1885) about 3,000
inhabitants, and was in 1897 and 1898 the headquarters of Mahmud
and his men. It now (1903) contains 2,500 inhabitants who are
chiefly women.
This town in 1885 consisted of mud houses
with straw roofs, with one or two earthworks W. of the town; two or
more mosques. Bombardment with small 7-lb. guns produced no effect
on the houses, the shells passing through without damaging them.
Setting roofs on fire of no use, as it did not destroy the houses.
It is now (1903) only just beginning to recover from the effects of
Mahmud’s occupation and massacre.
Summary of Water
Supply.
Ambukol
—
—
On the Nile.
Korti
—
—
On the Nile.
Hambok
47
—
Wells.
El Haweiyat
8
59
Wells.
Magaga
14
73
Two good reservoirs 1 mile N. of
track.
Abu Halfa
17
90
Wells, 3½ miles from the camel
track.
Jakdul
10
100
Three miles N. of the caravan track.
Abundant supply of water good for a large force.
El Fura
—
—
About 8 or 9 miles from Jakdul, and some
miles from the caravan track. Wells—water good, supply generally
plentiful.
Abu Tleh
52
152
Wells—water excellent, supply fairly
plentiful.
Shebakat
16
168
One large well. Supply abundant and never
failing, but the water is brackish, and only fit for animals.
Metemma
8
176
On the Nile.
Shendi
—
—
On the Nile 3 miles below Metemma.
By Captain V. Bunbury and Viscount
Sudley, March, 1897.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Korti
—
—
Road indifferent going for infantry;
suitable for cavalry.
Um Tub
35
35
One permanent well here, 10 feet in
diameter, sides faced with stone. Water, 125 feet below ground
level, good; constant supply. Fourteen hods at the well’s mouth in
good order. Country open, good grazing. Well in the middle of a
gravelly rise, easy for defence. It took 5 hours to water 115
camels.
For the first 3½ hours (10 miles) after
leaving this the route is very bad going, especially for cavalry,
and lies along a broken wadi and many stony bits. Ground on either
side rocky, hilly; efficient scouting impossible. After the broken
ground the route lies over open country, and is good for
cavalry.
Um Sunt Bayuda
30
65
The wells here are in a khor which runs
from S. to N. at this point. Only two wells were open to any depth
(about 10 feet), but were quite dry. Dug in both of them, but had
to desist in one after a short time, as it was too narrow for a man
to work in. In the other, reached water after 3 hours’ digging at a
depth of 23 feet below the ground level. Water flowed freely, and
was good.
The wells are commanded from E. and W. by
high ground immediately above the river bed, and from N. and S. by
hills from 100 to 150 feet high at a distance of 200 yards, and
from N.E. by a range of hills about 800 feet high at a distance of
1 mile.
Ten days later this well was revisited
and found to be dry.
The next 4 miles are through the Wadi
Bayuda defile. Road very bad here; flanked on either side by rocky
hills, which appear to run far inland on both flanks. All scouting
on flanks impossible. After heavy rains a flood of 9 feet deep is
said to pour northwards through this defile.
Two miles further on lies
Monasieb
6
71
or Um-el-Nasaib. Two wide-mouthed wells;
water in one of them 8 feet down. A few hods. Trees and bushes
growing close around; unsuitable place for watering beasts, and
unfavourable for defence.
Road good to
Um Sedeiri
3
74
Many wells here, mostly unused. Three
wide-mouthed wells and one narrow well, newly opened in the sand,
had water in them about 6 feet below ground level. The water in the
former was unfit for human consumption, but the camels drank it
freely; the water in the latter was good. After clearing away some
of the mud and slime from the large wells water came fairly freely.
Also obtained a constant supply of very good clear water by digging
2 feet in one of the unused wells; the hods at these wells are not
numerous, and require repairing. I consider that any amount of
water can be obtained here by a little digging; it is of good
quality, and appears to be about 6 feet below ground level. I was
informed that there is water here all the year round.
A great quantity of long coarse grass
grows round the wells and on each side of the river bed. The wells
are commanded from N. to S.E. by high ground from 60 to 30 feet
high, at distances of 500 to 150 yards from N. to S.E.; also from
W. by ground about 30 feet high, at distances from 80 to 100 yards
from S. to N. Some large trees and the long grass above-mentioned
would afford cover near to the wells.
The road back to Um Tub (35 miles) is
good and open, with the exception of the 10 miles mentioned
above.
The direct road Um Sedeiri to Korti (70
miles) is good going, but no water.
By Major Hon. M. G. Talbot,
August, 1898.
General Remarks.Except for patches
of sand, heavy for infantry and horses, the road is good
throughout, with the exception of the Magaga defile. Though the
road frequently changes from one bank to the other of the Khor Abu
Dom, up whose valley it generally proceeds till it crosses the
watershed into the Magaga basin, none of the crossings present any
difficulty; but there is always the danger in the summer months of
a spate caused by rain near the head.
Firewood and camel grazing are plentiful throughout, but there
is practically no grass for horses.
As far as, and including, Kalas the road may be considered as
having been traversed at the driest time of year.
N.B.—Party consisted of 1 Squadron (Cavalry), and 1 Company
(Camel Corps).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Merowe
—
—
Ghazali
8¼
8¼
General direction from Merowe, a little
S. of E. No definite track. Troops can take shortest line across
open plain, dotted with bushes and tabas grass. At 4 miles the Khor
Abu Dom, whose very sandy bed is 100 yards wide, is struck, and the
right bank ascended. At 6 miles the low rocky hills close in to
form a short, and very easy, defile; the hills soon recede and
allow the valley to expand, and at 7¼ miles the first well
is reached, at the foot of a low hill on right bank. A mile further
on is another well from which a small garden is supplied.
There are one or two water holes in between. Water good,
plentiful, and near surface. No good camping ground.
Hannek (Upper)
22¼
30½
Road keeps up right bank of khor; Geren
hill at 3¾ miles marks site of well. At 5¾ miles road crosses to
left bank at Um Sayala wells, and after 4 miles of good going through
thickish scrub, Beida is reached. Both Geren and Um Sayala were
said to have water, but were not visited. Beida well is
about 20 feet deep. After a few minutes clearing out, it supplied a
drink for all the horses. Good shade. At 10¼ miles the road leaves
the main khor, and keeps up an affluent called Ab Jowalis, which it
leaves by a very low and easy saddle at 14¼ miles, and after
crossing the heads of many minor tributaries eventually returns to,
and crosses the main bed of, the Khor Abu Dom at 20¼ miles. At ¼ to
½ mile below the point of crossing is the Lower Hannek
well, which was not visited. After crossing, the track keeps
up the right bank to Hannek (Upper) well at 22¼ miles. The
two wells here required clearing out, and then gave sufficient
water of rather indifferent quality. Plenty of shade.
Kalas
32½
63
The khor is crossed at ½ mile, and road
then passes over an open plain, affording good going, until it
strikes the khor again at Um Jueiri well at 8½ miles.
After this a few stony bits, and one or two stony ridges are
crossed, with which exceptions road is excellent to well at El
Tawila at 14½ miles. Water good; and well, after being a
little cleaned out, afforded a drink for all horses, and some of
the camels. Road continues good, and follows left bank of khor,
except for a few hundred yards at 18½ miles, when the hills close
in and drive it into the bed of the khor, under J. Lebarug. At 23½
miles it crosses a considerable branch of the khor, and at 26½ it
crosses a low rocky saddle, and returns to basin of main khor Abu
Dom, in bed of which at 28 miles is situated the well of El
Tueina, lying about ⅓ mile to left of direct road to Kalas.
From here to Kalas, 32½ miles, the road keeps crossing bed of khor,
60 to 100 yards wide, and the narrow basin is enclosed by low
irregular-shaped hills. Two lots of wells at Kalas, about
300 yards apart. Water bad. Even after cleaning out, the horses and
camels were watered with great difficulty. Little shade.
Abu Halfa
25½
88½
Road keeps up left bank over some stony
ground, and crosses khor at 2 miles and recrosses at 2½. After 5
more miles of good going on the whole, the very low and easy saddle
forming the watershed is reached at 7½ miles, and on crossing it
the basin of the Wadi Magaga is entered. The road for the next 7
miles is down a gradually widening, but always stony, defile, along
which it is preferable to lead horses almost the whole way. The
path is mostly down the actual watercourse, which has all the
characteristics of a mountain torrent. A dry water hole was passed
at 10 miles, and some pools of water at 13½ miles. At 14½
miles the road emerges from the stony bed and crosses a low saddle
at 15 miles, from which the first view of the plains to the S. is
obtained. At 15¾, another low saddle is crossed, and the track then
descends to the plain and keeps along the feet of the hills,
crossing patches of stony ground alternating with flat khors,
covered with scattered bush and thick tabas grass, to 25 miles,
when it turns to left up Wadi Abu Halfa, and strikes the wells at
26 miles, close to the junction of a tributary with the main khor,
and at the foot of a low—but conspicuous—rocky hillock.[35]
There is a large pool, said never to get dry, about ½ mile
up the khor. Good camping ground. Some shade. Water plentiful.
Jakdul
10½
99
Road crosses khor at once, and keeps
straight along foot of higher hills, leaving some very low ones on
its right. At 8 miles track turns to left up Wadi Jakdul, and
reaches lower pool at 10½ miles.
The former descriptions of Jakdul still
hold good, so it need not be described here. VideRoute 112.
By Captain N. M. Smyth (1897) and
Colonel Friend (1902).
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Merowe
—
—
El Dughayet
14
14
On left bank of Nile. Shaigia Arabs. Mud
huts, and palms to shade one battalion in vicinity. Thorn bush and
grazing for 1,000 camels.
A well-defined but narrow track, passable
only in single or double file, leads across some rocky hills about
150 feet above level of High Nile, till at 6 miles it strikes the
Khor Shingawi, which is broad and sandy, with a few scattered
bushes.
Jebel El Dega
8
22
Is passed on the right of the road. From
6 to 8 miles the ground is firm, and admits usually of marching
camels four abreast.
El Nus
8
30
El Nus is merely the name of a locality
where the track crosses a spur from the north, whence Jebel El
Ghanam is visible 10 miles north and Jebel El Khullal 5 miles
south; no shade. Drainage, after Jebel El Dega crossed, flows
south-west.
The track generally continues good,
mostly over hard shingle or firm sand. In many places several
parallel tracks.
Jebel El Mgarfur (?)
10
40
A rounded hill about 100 feet high, is
passed on the right. This is the first place where shade is to be
got from thorn bushes. There is enough for about one battalion if
scattered over about 2 square miles.
Um Geren
5
45
The well-known Arab camping ground, Um
Geren, marked by a tall tree, is left ½ mile to the north of track
in the wooded Khor Abu Siba.
El Kua
1½
46½
The well El Kua is passed ½ mile north of
track in the Khor Abu Siba. This well is 25 feet deep, and, though
liable to run dry in winter, generally contains about 3 feet of
water from July to September.
El Bar
1½
48
A similar well, El Bar, is passed ½ mile
to the north of track in the Khor Abu Siba, which all along here is
well wooded with dom palms, sunt trees and bushes for camel
grazing. Both these wells belong to the Hawawir sub-tribe of
Monasir.
Sani
2
50
Sani is a pool of rain-water with rock,
sand, and shingle banks. It is said that the water is perennial,
and if drunk dry, it refills to three-quarters former depth; more
than 6 feet deep in centre. Water good; contained at time of visit
about 26,000 gallons. Thirty animals can drink at once; if buckets
are used 60 could drink. Sagias and cultivation.
Abu Koreit
14
64
Many old wells, but disused, and water
supply very small.
Kurbai
62
126
Water, but supply bad.
Abu Haraz
19
145
Well; good water.
Berber
4
149
By Captain St. G. Henry,
August, 1897.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Sani Pool
—
—
Going good; in some places over rough,
tussocky grass, but generally over firm sand. Features of country
very indefinite, and drainage lines hard to trace; there is,
however, no doubt that they all cross the track from right to
left.
J. Sergein
7
7
From 6 to 8 miles the
track crosses some rocky undulating ground. At 7 miles, J Sergein,
or Sargit, is left to the S., and the road passes N. of J. El
Hueish, an isolated rocky hill with a patch of yellow sand halfway
up.
J. El Hueish
4
11
21
32
A branch of Wadi Argu or Argubi is now
crossed. From this point J. Gormuli lay due N., and J. Ibnali (the
mass of hills S. of Jura Well), lay due E.
15
47
At 3 miles from Jura the track joins, in
a branch of the Wadi Argu, the track from Kirbekan. At this point
the direction of Sani bears 250 degrees magnetic (Tudway). For the
next 3 miles the track winds in a south-easterly direction through
low undulating hills, between the mass of the Jura range (J.
Ibnali) on the right, and some sharp-pointed hills of considerable
height on the left.
Jura
3
50
The well at Jura is situated in a small
rocky plain surrounded by hills N. of eastern end of J. Ibnali. It
has been cut out of the solid rock and is about 2 feet in diameter.
The water was about 6 feet below the surface; it is good and sweet,
and tastes like rain-water. One hundred camels were watered from it
without emptying it. It is said never to dry up. There were
formerly six other wells, equally good, close by, of which the
marks are still visible. The natives say they only want cleaning
out. Water can sometimes be got by scraping at the mouth of the
khor about 110 yards distant. Near the well stands the ruin of a
house, built at the time it was proposed to take the telegraph line
to Berber by this route.
It is a bad and confined camping ground,
with very little shade, though there are a few dom palms and thorn
bushes along the khor. Heat and dust very great.
A flood is said to come down the khor
once almost every year. The drainage appears to go to Wadi
Argu.
El Zuma
35
85
On left bank Nile, opposite El Shereik.
Government Rest House and ferry. There is also Rest House at
Shereik.
By Major Tudway and Captain St. G.
Henry, August, 1897.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Jura
—
—
Wadi Argu
3
3
For the first 3 miles the track winds
through low hills between main mass (J. Ibnali) and the two pointed
hills to N. At 3 miles it strikes a branch of the Wadi Argu or
Argubi. Here the Sani track branches off at a bearing of 250
degrees magnetic, and the general direction of Kirbekan is 305
degrees magnetic. The track continues in a north-westerly direction
over undulating ground, draining from right to left to the Wadi
Argu, passing a low hill called J. Barga, and striking into a main
branch of the Wadi Argu, along which the road runs over an
excellent track with good grazing and plenty of trees.
30
33
At about 33 miles out from Jura, J.
Gormuli, which is visible nearly the whole way, lay due N.
As far as the 45th mile (Henry) the route
continues to follow the Wadi Argu, when it turns up a khor to the
left, and after some 11 miles of a narrow, rocky pathway, descends
to the river S.W. of J. Musa, the hill on which Kirbekan Battle was
fought.
Kirbekan
21
54
The Wadi Argu joins the Nile at Kirbekan
village. For the last 15 miles of its course the trees and
vegetation increase, and from the number of dom palms it is
probable that water would be found near the surface. There is
usually water in a rain pool, called El Sihani, 10 or 12 miles from
the river.
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
R.E., November, 1903.
General remarks.The only obstacles
to taking a bee line for Gabra are the Abu Meru or Merkhait hills,
which have to be skirted either on the N. or on the S., and the Goz
Abu Delua which has to be crossed. The latter is a belt of
undulating ground, covered lightly with sand in some places, and
perhaps heavily in others, running generally in N.N.E. by S.S.W.
direction and probably varying in width. The best place to cross it
is at the Hanakat El Goz, where a khor cuts its way through it.
This may be looked on as an obligatory point, and it is here and
round the northern and southern sides of the Merkhiat hills only
that one sees signs of a definite path until within a few miles of
the wells. After rain, water is said to stand in a place called
Shegeig or Mushgeig near the Goz, otherwise there is no water on
the road. After passing the Merkhait hills firewood abounds and
grass was plentiful at the time of this journey. Trees are chiefly
“samr” with a few “kittr,” “heglig,” and other bushes. There is no
“hashab” as stated on Khartoum Sheet. A great deal of spear grass
is met with, and the guide informed me that, but for his skilful
leading, I should have met much more.
Owing to the absence of any track and the tussocky nature of the
“tabas” grass, the going is not good, except in the neighbourhood
of the Id Ennala.
The distances given in this route report are obtained by
assuming the camels to have marched at about 2½ miles an hour,
checked by measuring wheel; but the route taken was far from
straight.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Omdurman
—
—
Left old steamer
workshops, turned N. at corner of Sur wall and, when clear of
houses, made straight for Abu Meru hills; halted N. of them; a
little grass; no firewood. Distance from Khartoum Sheet.
Abu Meru
8½
8½
On clearing hills track disappeared.
“Tabas” grass and “samr.”
Stony ridge
14
22½
Crossed by stony ridge.
Crossed by another stony ridge.
Crossed Khor Um Muherib (?) said to flow
into Id Ennala; not a very apparent drainage line.
Id Ennala
14¼
36¾
After passing one or two very minor
khors, crossed Id Ennala; much “tabas” and “spear” grass. Many
“samr” and a few “heglig” and “kittr” trees. Good grazing. Ground
rather broken in a very small way, but difficult for camels at
night.
Shegeig
8¼
45
Passed a place on right called Shegeig or
Mushgeig, where water stands after rain, and crossed to further
side of Goz Abu Delua which had long been visible on left, parallel
to route we followed. About a mile wide. The Hanakat is about 40
yards to 60 yards wide and full of “marakh” bushes. It is said the
old Government tried to find water here, but failed. It is said to
join the Shegeig, which is joined by the Id Ennala and falls into
Nile at Wadi Bishara.
From up stream end of Hanak, Gabra is not
visible, but the guide pointed it out as on 300° magnetic.
The Hanakat seems to have but a small
basin W. of Goz.
Continued over slightly undulating plain
with grass and scattered bushes.
Passed some dura cultivation on left.
Seemed a poor crop.
Wadi Mogaddam
10
55
Turned more to N.N.E.
and dropped over low stony ridge into the valley of the Wadi
Mogaddam. Well but not densely wooded. Marched on bearing 330°
magnetic to wells.
Gabra wells
3½
58½
There are at least 15 wells of 60 to 70
feet depth. They water a very large number of animals daily. Level
of water fluctuates with rain, after which the whole of the ground
round the wells is said to be underwater. Remains of Dervish mud
fort, circular, 12 yards diameter, loop-holed towards north, bears
about 150° from wells, which are 400 yards distant; short shelter
trench E. of wells. No remains of zeriba.
Many Kababish with large flocks and
herds.
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
December, 1903.
General remarks.Till within a few
miles of Korti the Wadi Mogaddam was practically followed
throughout. It seems not to be used at all as a caravan road, as
there is no track and no caravans were met. At the same time it
seems an easy road to Omdurman, and very straight as far as
Gabra.
The country passed through is flat and uninteresting. No hills
of any remarkable height were seen, the highest being to the W. and
N.W. of Gabra.
None of those near the route exceed 200 feet to 250 feet,
relative height.
The Wadi Mogaddam consists of a depression marked by a belt of
trees or grass, without any water channel whatever. Evidently there
is never any flow of water on the surface of the wadi.
The belt of trees varies in width and character. At Gabra it
must be nearly ¾ mile wide, and thick though not dense. There are
some good “sayal,” “heglig,” “tundub,” and “samr” trees; lower down
the trees diminish in size, the “sayal” is rarely met, and with the
exception of a little “arak” and “kurmet” there is hardly anything
but “samr” to be seen, with “tundub” in places. From Gaerin “selem”
begins to be seen, and soon it becomes the principal growth.
Below Um Harot no grass was seen except burnt-up “tabas,” but
that must depend on the year. On the whole, grazing for camels was
very fair, but practically none for horses.
The line taken presented no difficulties whatever in the way of
rocks or gradients. From a camel point of view there is no heavy
sand, but it is not recommended as a route for motor-cars.
No supplies to be obtained except sheep and milk. Firewood is
plentiful everywhere. Water seemed good everywhere except at Um
Harot, where it was a little salt. The wells are all about 120 to
140 feet deep, except at Gabra, where they were 60 feet to 70
feet.
A guide is indispensable. With a guide there is no difficulty in
marching by moonlight.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gabra
—
—
Left Gabra in a N.W. direction, and after
a few minutes emerged from the trees on to the edge of the gently
sloping plains, and turned north.
W. Um Deisis
5½
5½
After two hours along the left edge of
Wadi Mogaddam, the Wadi Um Deisis is crossed. It comes from Gambar
Wells and forms the northern boundary of the Kababish in the Wadi
Mogaddam. It is marked by some trees and 2 or 3 insignificant water
channels, the only ones seen on the whole road.
Soon after a low sandy hill, with a tree
on it, can just be made out in the distance and serves as direction
point. It is passed at about 5 hours from Gabra, being left on the
right.
Bir Hassanin
10½
16
A little way further on Bir Hassanin,
belonging to the Hassania, is passed. It is deeper than most, being
about 144 feet.
Um Harot
4
20
From this on we kept well to the left of
the wadi and made straight for Um Harot well, 120 feet deep,
belonging to the Geriat.
It is situated on a bare bit of ground W.
of the wadi and just where the Wadi Wohad joins it.
On the E. of the Mogaddam, which is here
narrow, is a low black elevation, called J. Deim Gibur.
Bir El Simira
6
26
Kept for some miles more or less in the
centre of the wadi, which is rather ill-defined; slight rises of
ground occur at intervals on either bank. Reached Bir El Simiha,
Geriat well, close under N.W. end of low black hill partially
covered with sand.
Fanga Well
5
31
One and a-half hours further on, keeping
to right of Mogaddam, passed a disused Geriat well called Um
Khenoit, situated in a bare space that had once been zeribaed, and
15 minutes further on reached Fanga well, Geriat.
Gaerin
4
35
Still keeping on right edge of Mogaddam,
after another 1½ hours Gaerin wells are reached.
There are several wells, about 120 feet
deep, in a bare space of about half a square mile. Wood all round,
including much “selem.” From this on very little grass was
seen.
Bir El Agami
6
41
Kept along right edge of wadi, and after
1¼ hours crossed a wadi joining from E. Guide seemed to call it
Wadi Teneida, but it was difficult to catch. An hour further on the
nearest point to Bir El Agami was passed. This is the northern
Geriat well, and lies about a mile E. of route.
After ¾ of an hour, the junction of the
Wadi Melh is passed on the left.
Bir Eminalla
10
51
And 3 hours further on the first Hawawir
well, Bir Eminalla, is reached.
From here the wadi begins to be more or
less restricted by rising ground on either side which does not open
out till within an hour of Um Rumeila.
Um Rumeila
12½
63½
This well is situated on a bare stony
patch just where the Wadi Gumr joins the Mogaddam. Most of the
latter wadi keeps to the E. of it. From this point the Gumr hills,
which have been visible for some time, are at their nearest and
appear not more than 20 or 25 miles off. The plain, up to the sandy
foothills, appears gently sloping and bare. The hills have the
appearance of a long gravelly ridge of very uniform and no great
height, but it is unlikely that they are of gravel. A few hills are
visible to the N.W., and a group of low hills called Mingit bears
44° magnetic. Salt is obtained either from these hills or from the
low ridges in their vicinity.
Wadi Hamid
11
74½
Kept down wadi, passing junction of W.
Anderab at about 4 miles, to junction of Wadi Hamid with Mogaddam.
There is some “selem” here; from this on it becomes more and more
frequent. The Wadi Hamid comes from a low hill called Sud Wad Hamid
or some such name.
A few miles up it is joined by the W. Abu
Sedeir, in which there is a Hawawir well, which lies on the road
from Um Tub to Hanboti.
El Gab Abu Gambur
14
88½
After an hour along the right edge of
wadi kept a little E. of N. over some broken ground for about two
hours, and then returned to wadi and kept more or less up its right
edge till within the group of hills called El Gab Abu Gambur.
On the E. side of the southernmost of
these hills, on the left bank, is an ancient enclosure said to have
been built by the Anak. A semi-circular wall descending from the
steep part of the hill encloses a bit of gently sloping ground near
the base. The distance between the two horns is about 120 yards,
and the distance from the line joining the two ends to the lowest
point is about 70 yards.
The wall is 8 feet or 9 feet thick
throughout, and 6 feet high at the lowest point of the hill,
diminishing regularly to nothing as it ascends the hill.
There is a gate at the lowest point,
which is fairly well built, while the rest of the wall has a very
peculiar appearance from all the stones being used upright on their
ends. There is a legend that the Hawawir found a well there when
they first came to the country.
About an hour beyond the W. Eishat comes
in on the right. Kept generally on the right edge of the wadi, in
some places keeping on the sloping ground above it; a good many low
hills W. of wadi. Crossed a low saddle on W. of wadi, which is here
much less wooded, and in places hard to identify. A couple of miles
before reaching Wadi Mahal junction, wadi passes between two hills
on left and right bank, known as J. Abu Mara and Nasub El Abid
respectively.
Wadi Mahal
19½
108
The Wadi Mahal joins on right bank. The
Hawawir sometimes cultivate up this wadi.
The Mogaddam becomes more wooded again; a
low saddle is crossed on right bank and then a straight line is
made for Um Tub. A great deal of “tundub,” some “selem,” and
“samr.”
Um Tub
8
116
Um Tub well, 120 feet deep, situated on a
very slight rise in open plain on right edge of wadi. A track from
here to Bayuda well. Bad going, 2 days for hamla.
J. El Hueimi
18
134
From here low hills are constantly in
sight, each of which has a name, but none are conspicuous. Much
“selem” and “samr,” very good going. The general direction is a
little W. of N. J. El Hueimi, a low hill, serves as a direction
mark from some distance till it is reached.
Wadi Bayuda
7
141
After which J. Abno, on the right bank of
the Nile opposite Korti, becomes visible and is marched on. A
couple of miles further on the W. Megeirid joins the Mogaddam from
the E. It looks as if it must flow out of the Wadi Bayuda, but it
may come from a very short way. After crossing it, kept over low
gravelly ridges, rather trying for camels’ feet, till the Wadi
Bayuda was reached. The Wadi Bayuda appears to come from the hills
in the neighbourhood of Jakdul. It contains much “selem” and
“samr,” and there was excellent grazing where it was crossed. It
flows out near Ambukol.
Korti
9
150
From here it is best to keep a little
west of the straight line to Korti and along the right edge of the
wadi, in order to avoid more gravel ridges; after 1½ hours a track
is struck which leads past Korti village to the new Government
offices, just west of the old fort of 1897-98.
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
December, 1903.
General remarks.The road ascends
generally the wadi by which the drainage of the Khor Bayuda
descends. Though, possibly, people living on the river or at a
distance call the whole wadi by the name of Bayuda, the local Arabs
give each part of it a different name.
From the source to a little below the wells appears to be called
Khor Bayuda. Up to this point it has a defined bed, in which water
flows after rain. After passing J. Barkol it becomes Wadi Barkol,
being now, and remaining, a broad wadi with no water channel. Soon
after it becomes Wadi El Zein, till it is joined by the large Wadi
Abu Gia, whose name it retains till near Korti. It is not quite
clear whether it keeps it to the end or adopts the name Abu Gidean
after its junction with that wadi.
The going is extremely good, there being no difficulty
whatever.
Though a good deal used, there is no marked track till near the
wells. The numerous small isolated hills act as efficient
landmarks, so that everyone takes his own line.
Except for the short and uncertain period when green grass can
be obtained, “selem” is the best camel grazing in all this country.
It is found almost all the way in the wadi.
No supplies were obtainable of any sort on the road or at Bayuda
wells in December, 1903.
A little shade is to be got in winter, but practically none in
summer.
The distances were measured by wheel and adjusted to the
astronomical positions. The hours are those actually marched by
light hamla.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Korti village, west end
—
—
For the first 4 miles
one of the tracks leading to Um Tub is followed, the route then
bends slightly to left, keeping up the right edge of the Wadi Abu
Gia, which has plenty of “selem” and other trees, till it crosses
it at 13 miles.
13
13
J. Shankawi
3½
16½
It now keeps along the left side of the
wadi, which has shrunk almost to nothing above the junction of the
Abu Gia, passing J. Shankawi at 3½ miles, and returning to the
wadi, where “selem” bushes reappear.
8½
25
The route keeps on straight near the
southern of the two Sawileil hills, past J. El Zein, which is left
1½ miles on the right, crosses the Wadi El Zein, and a very low and
easy saddle.
14
39
It descends just to the right of a very
small hill called Nasb Um Handal, passes between J. Um Serre and J.
Barkol, and crosses the fairly well wooded W. Rahaba, just N. of
the little hill called Nasb El Rahaba.
8
47
After 5 miles it meets the well marked
track from Merowe, and at 6 miles it crosses a low ridge, and
descends into the valley of the wadi, here called Wadi Bayuda.
At 6½ miles it crosses the actual bed, some
40 yards wide and 6 feet deep, and at 7 miles the wells are
reached.
Bayuda wells
7
54
The wells are situated in the bed of the
khor and are filled up, whenever there is a spate. At the time of
the visit, the Arabs were drawing water from a hole about a mile
up; but they had begun to clean out the real wells.
There are said to be two other wells, El
Nasaib and Um Sideiri, about 2½ hours up on the way to
Hanboti.
Just at the wells it is fairly open,
though surrounded by low hills. Half a mile further up the khor is
closely shut in by hills covered with boulders.
By Colonel Hon. M. G. Talbot,
December, 1903.
General Remarks.From Bayuda wells
to Wadi Abu Gia there is an extremely well marked track, profusely
beaconed in the Arab manner. Further N. the stream of traffic
divides according to the part of the Merowe district for which the
traveller is bound or from which he starts.
The going is excellent throughout; no difficulties whatever.
The route appears to be of recent origin.
Formerly the produce of the Province used to make its way to
Berber via Sani, and this new trade route, sometimes
called the Hawashawi route, from a hill of that name, seems to have
been established to meet the new conditions in the Sudan.
From Bayuda the route keeps straight on, crossing the Goz Abu
Delua just before reaching Hanboti, and strikes the Nile near the
Shabluka. Between Bayuda and Merowe there are considerable
stretches without any camel grazing, and there is no shade of any
value in hot weather. The distances were measured by wheel and
adjusted to the astronomical positions.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Bayuda Wells
—
—
On leaving the wells for the first mile
the Korti track is followed. On issuing from the hills, the track,
which is well marked, gradually separates from the Korti route,
making for higher ground, and keeps on in a practically straight
line, crossing the heads of some of the small wadis that join the
main one from Bayuda, and passing over a number of infinitesimal
saddles that separate them.
There is nothing of interest along the
road.
J. Hawashawi
26
26
A number of small hills, each too small
to show properly on the scale, but sometimes forming a mass of
considerable area, are passed; but the only one worth noticing is
J. Hawashawi, which is said to give a name to the route.
Wadi Abu Gia
7½
33½
There is very little camel grazing on the
route generally, and after this none is met with till the Wadi Abu
Gia is reached, where there are some “selem” and other trees.
Birgat El Seleim
9
42½
The Wadi Abu Gia is
the route used by the Camel Corps in 1885, and is still known as
Sikkat El Ingliz. The country now becomes still more bare; the
tussocks of burnt up “tabas” grass, that have been hitherto seen
occasionally, no longer appear, and with the exception of some
“selem” bushes in the neighbourhood of Birgat El Seleim, a low
hill, no green thing is seen till the Wadi Kurei is reached in the
neighbourhood of the Birgat Wadi Kurei, from the top of which there
is a good view.
Birgat Wadi Kurei
14
56½
Tangasi
7
63½
From here into Tangasi Market the route
(there is no track) is over a low gravel ridge and then across a
level plain.
[34]It was in this year that the surveys for the
railway were made.
APPENDIX. — 122.—THE ARBAÏN ROAD. — Description . — ( a. )—ASSIUT, viâ KHARGA, to BERIS and MAKS. — ( b. )—MAKS, viâ MURRA, KASSABA and SHEB, to SELIMA. — ( c. )—SELIMA to LAGIA. — ( d. ) LAGIA, viâ BIR SULTAN, to EL FASHER. — Recapitulation , showing approximate distances and days’ journey. — 123.—ASWAN to DERAHEIB. — 124.—KASSALA to MASSAUA. — Route (January to March ). — 125.—TAKARASHORIT or AMBARAB on the KHOR GASH viâ SOGADA and KHOR MAIETIB to UMBREGA on the RIVER SETIT. — 126.—GALLABAT to CHELGA. — 127.—LAKE TSANA (GOJA) to GANDOA. — 128.—ADDIS ABBABA, viâ GOJJAM and LAKE TSANA, to GALLABAT. [42] — 129.—ADDIS ABBABA to FAMAKA (S. of BLUE NILE). — 130.—ROSEIRES to ABU RAMLA and DUNKUR. — 131.—DUNKUR to GALLABAT. — 132.—FAZOGLI TO KIRIN. — 133.—KIRIN to KODOK. — 134.—KHOR BOSUK [43] , viâ KHOR EINE to GOHA. — 135.—GOHA, viâ K. BARSU to BOSUK. — 136.—CAMP ON KHOR BOSUK [44] to ASOSA. — 137.—ASOSA to KHOR BOSUK, viâ KHOR SURGALLA AND KHOR ZALAN. — 138.—GORE to ABWONG ( on SOBAT). — 139.—GONDOKORO to UGANDA ( and MOMBASA). — Gondokoro and neighbourhood. ( Vide also end of Chapter II in Vol. I.) — ( a. )—GONDOKORO to WADELAI. — ( b. )—GONDOKORO to WADELAI. [48] — THROUGH COMMUNICATIONS WITH MOMBASA. — 140.—ROADS in the LADO ENCLAVE.
(Routes partly outside the
Sudan.)
(Compiled by the Editor.)
The “forty days” road leads S.S.W. across the desert from
Assiut, in Upper Egypt, viâ the oases of Kharga, Beris,
Sheb, Selima, Lagia, and Bir El Sultan to El Fasher capital of
Darfur. It was formerly in considerable use for bringing slave
caravans, &c., from the Sudan, and is still used in parts to a
limited extent by natron caravans, occasional smugglers, and
others. It is, however, now practically deserted.
In the summer of 1884 a reconnaissance was made by Lt.-Col.
Colvile and Lieut. Stuart-Wortley from Assiut to Lagia, in order to
find out whether the forces of the Mahdi could penetrate into Egypt
by this road. The result of the patrol was satisfactory, and
demonstrated that, owing to the paucity of water on the road, it
would be quite impossible for a force of any size to traverse
it.
The total length of the Darb El Arbaïn, from Assiut to El
Fasher, is certainly not less than one thousand (1,000) miles. To
cover this stretch in forty days would appear to necessitate
particularly excellent camels, but the following is the normal time
taken, according to native report:—
Place.
Marching Days.
Rest Days.
Total No. of Days.
Assiut
—
—
—
El Kharga
4
1
5
Beris
1½
1
2½
El Murra
3
—
3
El Kassaba
1½
1
2½
Sheb
1
1
2
Selima
2
2
4
El Lagia
4
1
5
Natron Wells, Bir Sultan
5
1
6
J. Anka or Meidob
7
—
7
El Fasher
3
—
3
Total
32
8
40
A day’s journey in summer lasts from El Asr (two hours before
sunset) till one hour after sunrise; and in winter from sunrise
till three hours after sunset.
The only points south of Kharga which have been astronomically
fixed in modern times are Kassaba and Sheb (Talbot, 1903), and
therefore the distances between the main points given below must be
considered more or less approximate. The road is hardly defined at
all throughout its length, and variations occur at different
points. A road also joins the Arbaïn from Mut (Dakhla Oasis) at
Terfawi (five days).
On no account should an intending traveller move without
reliable guides, who may usually be obtained, or heard of, at
Assiut.
(“Kharga Oasis: its topography and Geology,” by
John Ball, 1899, Public Works Department, Cairo, pp. 20, 44-60,
&c.; Captain Lyons, R.E., February, 1894, &c.)
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Assiut
—
—
Leave Assiut on the S., turn to W.,
through cemeteries, and along the the foot of the scarp.
5
5
Road winds up
limestone cliff 470 feet. A few miles over broken ground brings one
on to nearly level limestone desert, with no hindrance in any
direction. Road runs generally S. over flat limestone; nothing of
any interest till the road dips into the great hollow of the
oasis.
82
87
Ein Karam Mohammed
13
100
First water at Ein
Karam. See book above-mentioned for maps and full description of
the great Oasis of Kharga, which lies in a dip over 100 miles long
and 20 miles wide, running N. and S. About 120 wells and 10
villages or districts; population about 8,000; 4,500 feddans of
cultivated ground, and about 60,000 palm trees. The oasis includes
the villages of Bulak (third largest village), Beris (second
largest village), attacked by Dervishes in 1893, and Maks (Bahari
and Gibli). The road now strikes again S. into the desert.
Kharga
26
126
Bulak
15
141
Beris
39
180
Maks
9
189
(Lieut.-Col. Colvile, July, 1884; Captain Lyons,
February, 1894; Officers Egyptian Army, Spring of 1894,
&c.)
Place.
Miles.
Hours
(Inter-mediate).
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Assiut.
H.
M.
Maks, from Assiut
—
189
—
Kasr Argi or Ein El Kasr
2
191
0
35
A small rocky mound, with a ruin; near it
is a good spring. Another mound, with spring and ruin, also bears
the same name.
Garid Abu Baian
11
202
3
17
A rocky granite hill, about 150 feet
high, on E. of road. The road, which up to this point has been
along a broad, shallow valley, with a bed of firm gravel, now
enters for a few miles hills of very deep sand, across which there
is no track.
J. Wagif (J. Harif)
26½
228½
9
0
Meaning “stopping place.” A solitary
mound of rock 80 feet high. It appears to have been used as a
signal station, there being remains of a fire on the summit. Stone
roadmarks and several graves. One day trotting from here to either
Beris or Bir Murr.
Jebel Mishersha (Um Shersha)
8
236½
—
Shersha = Xerxes. Ancient Persian
outpost, possibly water. Long, low cliff on E. of road. Small
hillocks 4 miles further on, close to road and opposite S. end of
Shersha, are called Gara El Maghatia.
Jebel El Magazan
11
247½
—
Hillock on road where merchandise used to
be left.
El Garun
11½
259
—
Two little knolls; a road to S.W.
branches off to Darfur, according to Arabs.
Three miles further on begins a low
limestone plateau, which extends up to and beyond Bir Murra. This
limestone is the only landmark for the wells, as no high hills are
visible near.
Bir Murra
7
266
16
15
Two large holes, each 3 to 4 feet deep.
Plenty of water, rather salt, but camels will drink it. Jebel el
Murra is a narrow, ridge-shaped hill, 80 feet high, overlooking the
wells. Colvile says:—“It is a promontory 3 miles N. of the wells,
and running out of the low range of hills on the E. of the road. It
is easily to be recognised by a conical rock, balanced on its apex,
on the top of a small mound.”
Kassaba
67
333
25
10
A group of dom palms, water 7 feet down,
bitter and nitrous. Approach from N. by a narrow gorge down the
sandstone cliff (120 feet high), which bounds the wells also on the
W.; E, and S. the ground is open.
From Kassaba a road leads in a S.E.
direction over ridges for 25 miles to the wells of Nakhla, whence
the road continues for a further 79 miles to the Nile, opposite
Halfa.
(Nakhla)
—
—
—
Nakhla or Saafi, is so termed from a palm
tree on a small, sandy, grass knoll which overlooks the wells.
Surrounding this knoll is a narrow valley, about 80 yards broad, to
the E. and S. Throughout this valley water can be obtained by
digging at a depth of from 3½ to 5 feet. The water does not run in
very rapidly, but the earth is so light that the well can be dug
very rapidly, filling to about 9 inches in six hours; water good
and abundant (February). In the S. there is rising ground with a
slight command. To the E. the ground rises slightly, but is lower
than the date palm hill. To the N.E. there is a lofty sand hill, at
a distance from the date palm hill of over 1,200 yards.
Blockhouse, built 1894 (now
unoccupied).
(The Sheb District)
—
—
—
Kassaba forms the apex of the triangular
Sheb district, which holds numerous wells, the names of which are
often confused. The western side of the triangle is formed by a
range of sandstone cliffs, running S.W., along the base of which
the Arbaïn road continues from Kassaba to Sheb. The base of the
triangle is the road from Sheb to Nakhla, and the centre is an open
plain.
A district covered
with low sand hills, and studded with dom palms. Water is said to
be obtainable by digging in most parts of it; that at the N. end is
bad. A well at the southern end gives a good and plentiful supply.
There are three patches of camel grazing in the district, each
patch being about sufficient for 400 camels for one day. From here
a road branches off gradually to the S.W. to the wells of Terfawi
(Id Koraim, or Abu Taraf), 8 miles on, lying in a broad valley,
under the cliff above mentioned. Good water 3 feet below the
surface. Forty old palms and numerous smaller ones, and two dom
palms, no grazing. This Terfawi road is often used as an
alternative branch of the Arbaïn road, and rejoins it further S.
Terfawi to Beris is reckoned at five days. There appears to be a
direct road from Terfawi to Lagia, five days over level ground
covered with stones.
Terfawi
—
—
—
Sheb
10
358
—
A blockhouse was built here in 1894 to
guard against raids by the Dervishes, and was attacked on Jan. 8,
1895. Water slightly brackish, but plenty of it; a little grazing.
Road from here N.W. to Terfawi, 5½ miles. Road E. to Nakhla, 40
miles, contains wells or underground water at El Haad, 5, Sederi,
5, Bir Suleiman, 13, and Bir Hasab el Gabu, 9 miles intermediate.
From Sheb the roads lead S., over easy ground for the most part, to
the oasis of Selima.
Selima
82
440
27
45
Named after a legendary Amazon Princess
(?). A small oasis, commanded on all sides by rocky hills, those on
the N. being considerably higher and steeper. The water, obtained
from numerous wells about 2 feet deep, is sufficient for a force of
1,000 men. It has a strong sulphurous taste and smell. The oasis is
uninhabited, but is occasionally visited by the neighbouring tribes
for the sake of the salt and dates which are found there. The salt
lies in beds covered by 1 to 3 feet of sand, and has to be broken
out.
There are some 2,000 fruit-bearing date
palms, but these are at present choked in a thick undergrowth.
Dates very good.
There is plenty of grazing.
From Selima a road leads in a S.E.
direction for 80 miles to Sagiet El Abd, on the Nile. No water on
the way.
For further description of this oasis,
vide Part I., Chap. IX.,
pp. 202-3.
(Lieut. Stuart Wortley, July, 1884; Captain H.
Hodgson, 1901, 1903, &c.)
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Assiut.
Selima, from Assiut
—
440
On leaving Selima the track, well defined
by camel skeletons, goes in a westerly direction for 6 miles over
hard sand, after which it turns S.W.; small conical hills to W. for
30 miles. Occasional camel skeletons, but no track. Succession of
rocky ridges.
33
473
High conical hill to W. Extensive view.
All hills crossed are steep on the N. side, and slope gradually to
the S. (This is reversed at Selima and Lagia.) Going rocky and
bad.
J. Hadada and J. Hamadia
24
497
Pass between these two hills, J. Hadada
to the E. Low ranges of hills, running S.E. and N.W.
40
537
Descend into hard sandy plain, extending
for 20 miles. Country then becomes very rocky and difficult for
camels; no track discernible. Range of sand hills to W. called J.
Ruhilat.
J. Gabra, a round-topped hill, rising out
of valley called Lagia, seen from a distance of 35 miles. Road
descends by a gorge of deep sand into the valley 10 miles long and
1 mile broad, running E. and W.
Water about 4 miles from the gorge. Three
wells filled with sand water, water has to be cleared, or fresh
well opened, otherwise it gets bad. Water good in itself. No
vegetation; water 6 feet below surface; country barren; petrified
wood abundant. Several tracks cross here.
Captain Hodgson states:—
At Lagia Kebir, or Agar, are five
or six pans of water, good and near the surface, springing from
similar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. The wells lie
in an open plain, no vegetation near except about six or ten small
trees about 3½ miles to W., giving a little feeding for camels. To
the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, and
the road to Selima Wells lies across it. On reaching summit of
ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabs
state it is the road to Selima and there is no grazing.
In the event of not finding a water pan
open, the water lies some 20 yards S. of a low clump of date
seedlings, the only ones in the valley. There are some black rocks
in the plain, on the track from Bir Sultan, which lie 2,700 yards
(by range-finder) from the abovementioned dates, and at an angle of
228° from them.
(Lagia Amran)
—
—
Lagia the Less, lying 12½ miles E.S.E. of
Lagia Kebir, also called Amran from the colour of the ground, lies
in a plain about 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills;
there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easy
marching. Water lies within a foot of the surface and is very
plentiful; ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand, the
Arabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during the last few
years it is gradually covering the ground, probably owing to dry
seasons.
(Lagia bil Hêt)
—
—
Some bushes half a mile from the water.
At a distance of one day’s journey to the E. of Lagia there is said
to be a well, called Lagia bil Hêt, on account of a Roman wall
built close by (?) (Omar et Tunsi).
To the S. the road to Bir Sultan lies
across an open plain and is easy going. The tracks spread
considerably.
An oasis is reported to lie 4 days’
journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which is
visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. The water is said
to be bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have no
knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is no
road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia. The
road Lagia Kebir to Dongola is 166 miles in a S.E. direction: 7
days’ march.
Captain H. Hodgson, Browne, and Natives.
Very little is known of this, the southern half of the Arbaïn
road, and no European (since Browne, 1793, who left no record of
any value) seems ever to have traversed it south of Bir Sultan.
From Lagia to Bir Sultan is 5[38] days’ going over easy
country.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total from Assiut.
Lagia
—
580
On leaving Lagia the going is fair.
47
627
Low rocky mounds; dozens of empty
paraffin tins lying about; place where caravans leave store and
forage. Easy going, hard sand.
35
662
Sand dunes to E. of track, continue for 5
miles. Road slopes slightly down hill, direction 210°.
37
699
Large black stone 10 feet high by
roadside, 18 inches wide and 9 inches thick. Landmark visible for
long way from N. Marching becomes difficult.
10
709
Low hill, distinctive landmark; black
rock with white gypsum top, with pile of black rocks on top.
J. Kashaf, Bir Sultan
28
737
Hilly rocky country, with gradual descent
to J. Kashaf, which lies a short distance N.W. of Bir Sultan.
Bir Sultan, otherwise known as Wadi Natrun (the Natron Valley),
Bir el Melha, or Bir Zaghawa, lies in the centre of a plain,
bounded by hills to the N.W., N., and E. Three or four pans of good
water; ground below the sand being white clay. A little N.W. lie
the natron diggings, the natron being in a seam 2 inches deep, a
few inches below the sandy surface. One and a half miles E. of the
natron is J. Kashaf. Plenty of scrub and grazing. At Melani, under
the eastern slope, the soil is quite damp.
Bir Sultan lies 10 days due W. of Old Dongola.
Zaghawa, which is marked on some maps as a definite place, is
the name of the district inhabited by the nomad Arab tribe of that
name. It is full of khors and wells, and is stated to be 4 days to
S.W. of Bir Sultan. There is a little-used track from Lagia which
passes through Zaghawa district and proceeds towards El Fasher, but
it is not the Arbaïn Road. The Zaghawa people often come to the Bir
Sultan.
From Bir Sultan to El Fasher the accounts of the road are
contradictory. One account states that it is 10 days hard
travelling, without water on the road, and that camels have to be
specially trained for the journey. Other accounts say that from Bir
Sultan to J. Meidob,[39] or to Bir Maharia (water at either
place), the journey takes 4 to 5 days; on to Toma, in the midst of
a cultivated populous district, 3 days; and on to El Fasher 1 day
more. Another road appears to lead viâ Anka, 7 days from
Fasher, and is said to take 15 days altogether; this is the one
said to be generally used.
(Browne, in 1793, went from Bir El Melha (Sultan), viâ
Medwa (?), S.W. to Wadi Mazruk and then S.E. to Kobe, but left a
very meagre description of the actual journey.)
Place.
Miles.
Days.
Assiut
—
—
Kharga
126
5
Bulak
15
½
Beris
38
1½
Maks
9
⎱
⎰
3
Bir Murra
78
Kassaba
67
2½
Sheb
25
1
Selima
82
3
Lagia
140
5
Bir Sultan
157
6
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270)
190
7
El Fasher (El Fasher 110)
140
5½
1,067
40
Compiled from a Report by Mr.
Jennings-Bramly (1902).
N.B.—Distances only approximate, and may be
underestimated.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Aswan
—
—
The road from Aswan to the well of Um
Habal passes through a country destitute of any vegetation, but the
road is well marked, being constantly used by the Eshabab charcoal
burners going to Aswan, and the Bisharin, who go to the same market
to buy corn.
Bir Um Habal
43
43
The two most marked points are the J.
Butitulub, from which the tomb on the hill opposite the Aswan
Commandania can be seen, and J. Umsuan on the Demhit range. The
distance from Aswan to Bir Um Habal is a good day and a half with
hamla. Bir Um Habal had plenty of good water at about 30 feet from
the surface in June, but the level varies according to rainfall,
though, according to the Arabs, water is never at any great
distance from the surface.
From Bir Um Habal the road still lies
through the hills, but soon leaving these crosses an open sandy
plain, without vegetation of any kind. At the end of the first day
after leaving Um Habal the road again winds between small rocky
hills. The hills of J. Negib were evidently at one time mined, as
there are the remains of old houses and signs of the quartz having
been worked in many places.
Bir Negib
55
98
Wadi Negib has a few
sayal trees; the water is good and plentiful. Bir Heimer, about 3
hours’ march south, was formerly garrisoned by the Eshabab. There
is always water there. The wadis we now passed had always a certain
amount of camel fodder, but the grazing would be sufficient only
for a small number of animals, and it would be necessary to go some
way from the beaten track to find it. Once Jebel Gedir is reached
the track runs through small wadis with hilly sides, and soon the
Wadi Murra is reached; some way up this wadi there is a well, Bir
Murra, which, as its name denotes, is bitter.
Bir Heimer
6
104
Bir Murra
18
122
Ongwat
16
138
Once the Wadi Murra is reached the hills
are left behind, and after about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is reached;
the wadi here is nothing but a flat bed of sand held in between low
slate hills. The Wadi Ongwat, now followed, is at its junction with
the Wadi Alagi profusely grown with handal (Colocynth) plant; but
has only a few trees. The well of Ongwat is in the hills of J.
Ongwat; it is not more than 3 feet deep, and has plenty of good
water.
J. Maksam
—
—
The Bir Ongwat is the boundary between
the Eshabab and Aliab tribes, though the well itself belongs to the
Eshabab. A road runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu Tabag; but the most
direct road to Bir Eigat is straight to J. Maksam, high red granite
hills, in which, after rain, much good water can be found. Through
one end of the granite hills, before reaching El Deiga, a road
runs, joining Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
The Wadi Alagi is very broad opposite J.
Maksam, with only a tree here and there growing in its bed. At
times during the rains this part of the wadi is cultivated. El
Deiga, a pass through which the Wadi Alagi cuts the small hills at
the northern extremity of J. Maksam, is also a boundary between the
Eshabab and Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El Deiga to Bir Jugub, is
bounded by small hills to the south and rather larger to the north.
Except for a sayal or selem tree here and there no vegetation is to
be found in the wadi.
Jugub
40
178
In the Wadi Jugub there is a well
belonging to the Aliab (Kurbeilab), which is sometimes opened
according to the pasturage. This wadi had more vegetation than any
we had passed up to that time; there were growing besides the
ordinary selem a few marakh trees.
From Jugub to Eigat the road leaves the
Alagi, passing through low hills to the north. J. Eigat can be seen
from Jebel Jugub, and it could also be seen from J. Maksam if that
hill were climbed.
Eigat
27
205
There is a continuous line of high hills
from Bir Jugub to El Eigat, running nearly parallel with the road
at some 5 miles to the north. These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber, J.
Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat is well grown with marakh, heglig,
sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It is a great contrast in its
greenness to the Wadi Alagi, left the day before. The water at
Eigat is near the surface, sometimes running, and at no time in the
year more than a few feet down. The well belongs to the Aliab
tribe.
There are at Eigat many signs that in
olden times the hills were extensively mined. The road from Eigat
to Bir Neshd in the Wadi Alagi is bad, but passable, though hamla
camels have some trouble in passing.
The easier road, though four or five
times longer, is down the Wadi Eigat and then across into the
Alagi, which it follows to Neshd. Everywhere among the hills, from
Eigat to the Alagi, along the direct road, are signs of old mining
colonies. The Alagi here is green with vegetation, the arak grows
everywhere, with marakh and heglig, and of course sayal and selem
trees.
Neshd
10
215
The well of Neshd,
about half a mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the southern side of the
Alagi, belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab. There is always good water
here, but, owing to the rocks, camels cannot approach right up to
the well. At Bir Kamotit, which is some half a mile up the wadi,
the water is good but rather tainted by the herds that water at it.
This well is the property of the Hadl family.
Kamotit
4½
219½
From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib the road
always follows the Wadi Alagi, which is everywhere well grown with
sayal, the bean of which is excellent food for sheep, goats or
camels. We saw many traces of the wild donkey, but did not actually
see one.
Deraheib
9½
229
Old mining colony. No well.
By Lieutenant H. H. S. Morant
(1898); Completed with Material taken from Reports by Colonel Hon.
M. G. Talbot (1900) and Mr. F. B. Hohler (1901).
General Description. The road.The
general direction of Massaua from Kassala is almost due E. From
Sabderat to Keren the Italians have cleared a roadway about 50 feet
in width, from which most of the stones and all vegetation, except
an occasional large baobab tree, have been cleared. It is so
clearly marked that a stranger could march by it even on a dark
night. The only point of any difficulty is the low saddle at Bisha,
where there was still room for a good deal of work (1900). In its
long straight lines it reminds one strongly of the old Roman roads;
it crosses ravines and water-courses at whatever angle it happens
to strike them, but at many of the steeper ascents and descents
narrow ramps have been cut. In several places along it the Italians
have made new masonry wells.
The accompanying road report was made before the construction of
this newly cleared road—which from Sabderat to Daura Obel passes N.
of the old route, viâ Algeden and Eladal—and there is no
detailed information at hand as to the water supply along that
portion of the route, though there is said to be no difficulty in
this respect for the ordinary traveller.
From Keren to Asmara, and thence after many zig-zags to Saati,
there is an excellent driving road about 14 feet wide, with the
exception of a length of about 6 miles before reaching Azteklezan,
which had not (April, 1900) been completed to the full width, but
was then practicable for wheeled vehicles. Throughout the length of
this metalled road the gradients are occasionally of necessity
rather steep; the kilometers are marked throughout.
Country.From Kassala to Keren the
general character of the country strongly resembles much of that
between Kassala and Suakin, and consists as a rule of level
waterless plains of firm soil, at times sandy or gravelly, covered
with fine short
grass and scattered bushes of the acacia tribe, and intersected
here and there by shallow sandy khors, which during the rainy
season carry off the drainage from the rocky volcanic hills and
granite koppies, which are so characteristic of this particular
part of Africa.
From Keren to Massaua the character of the country entirely
changes and the waterless plains and thorny acacias of the
Kassala-Keren route are replaced by running streams and precipitous
mountains, overgrown with euphorbia and wild olives, both on the
ascent to the Asmara plateau, as well as in the descent to the
maritime plain of Massaua.
Transport animals.For the entire
journey mules are most suitable, but as far as Keren camels answer
admirably. From Keren to Massaua, viâ Asmara, wheeled
vehicles, mules or horses. If the direct desert route from Keren to
Massaua be taken, camels are desirable, if not indispensable.
Supplies.Milk, goats, cattle,
&c., are found, as elsewhere in the Sudan, throughout the
route.
There are occasional small canteens at intervals, and fair
stores at Keren, and some good shops at Asmara and Massaua, where
most ordinary requirements are obtainable.
Water.If desired to move a force
larger than a company along this route, enquiries as to state of
water supply should be made, as it varies considerably according to
the time of year.
Inhabitants.Speaking generally,
the inhabitants between Kassala-Keren are Beni-Amer; after that a
bastard type of Abyssinian, &c.
Climate.The climate along this
route is on the whole good. Between Kassala-Keren and Ginda-Massaua
it is decidedly hot in March, April, and May—probably in other
months also. These are also the more feverish portions of the
route, though probably no part of it is so unhealthy as Kassala.
Between the sea and Agordat there occur in April what the Italians
call the “little rains,” which mean very heavy thunder-storms;
these cease before the end of the month, and the rainy season
proper begins towards the end of May.
The climate on the Asmara plateau is said to be delightful,
though perhaps the rains are excessive.
Game.There is little or no game
along this route, except between Kassala and Keren, where ariel,
gazelle, dig-dig, and guinea fowl may be met with.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kassala
—
—
Head Quarters of the
Kassala Province (fully described in Vol. I). From here the road
follows the telegraph line and runs nearly due E. between Jebels
Mokrani and Kassala, over a level more or less open plain to
Sabderat, the village of which name is situated on the northern
side of the gorge, through which flows Khor Tamarat, and is about
1½ miles on the Italian side of the frontier, which is plainly
marked by pillars. Here there is a telegraph office and well with a
never-failing and plentiful supply of good water.
Sabderat
17
17
Metaui (Algeden)
10
27
From this point a road has been cleared
by the Italians which runs nearly perfectly straight to the
vicinity of Daura Obel, where it bends to the S., and thence
follows the old track. This latter leads from Sabderat to Metaui,
where a good well was found (in 1898). The Arabs using the well,
however, apparently live at a distance, and were not seen.
Aradeb
12½
39½
From here the road
ascends a col, and high ground continues on the right for about 5
miles, after which the road leads over a level bush-covered plain,
and after passing two unimportant detached jebels, a well, named
Aradeb, close to the northern end of the second jebel, is reached.
Plenty of shade, but very little water (April, 1898). The path
continues good over a level plain with scattered bush until Eladal
is reached. Here there is a telegraph office, but only one well
with extremely little water (April, 1898). Continuing, the track,
after crossing a low saddle, traverses a defile with high rocky
jebels on either side for about 5 miles, and then, after crossing a
wooded basin, ascends a high saddleback, from the summit of which a
fine view is obtainable. From here the track descends by a rather
steep and rocky pass to the wells of Daura Obel, which lie in the
bed of a khor which finds an exit to the S., being shut in on three
sides by high ground. After 2 miles this high ground is left
behind, and a similar distance further on another khor is crossed,
apparently flowing N. It must be somewhere near this point that the
new-cleared road previously referred to joins in.
Eladal
12½
52
Daura Obel
14
66
Bisha
14
80
A level plain, covered with open bush, is
now traversed, and after passing between two detached hills, Bisha
is reached. Here there is a telegraph office and small village,
situated on the side of the hill, about 1½ miles N.E. of the well,
where there appeared to be plenty of water (April, 1898). Two miles
from the well the road crosses the top of a saddle from which a
good view E. and W. is obtainable. The road then descends a stony
ravine, about 1 mile in length, and a sign board was passed,
pointing S., “To Well”; thence across the usual bush-covered plain
to Shaglet, where there are rest tukls and many dom palms. In the
khor close by, a tributary of the Baraka, there are several good
wells.
Shaglet
12
92
Agordat
14
106
From near Shaglet the hills of Agordat
are visible, and after traversing a plain (the scene of the first
battle of Agordat) covered with scattered bush and intersected by
several khors, the dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka are reached
at the foot of the hills (100 feet high?), on which are built the
twin fortresses of Agordat. These, however, are both commanded
within artillery range from the S. There are one or more wells with
any amount of good water to which there is a covered way from the
main fort. Population 8,000. But few stores can be purchased here.
The climate is hot and considered unhealthy, though it is the only
station in the colony, except perhaps Massawa, that can be compared
with Kassala in that respect.
Adarte
17
123
The road now crosses
the sandy bed of the Khor Baraka and traverses an undulating,
tolerably open plain (the scene of the second fight with the
Dervishes), and recrossing the Baraka about 7 miles further on
continues up its valley to Adarte, where there are wells with
rather a meagre water supply. From here the path continues up the
scattered bush-covered valley of a tributary of the Baraka, until
Agat is reached; here there are several wells, and water seems
plentiful. After leaving Agat, the valley narrows considerably,
though the plain which bears slight indications of cultivation (the
first seen since leaving Kassala) continues level until reaching
the foot of the somewhat steep ascent to the plateau (4,470 feet
approx.) on which the fortress and town of Keren are situated. This
of course belonged to Egypt in the old days, and was then known as
Senhit, from the name of a small village still existing. The fort,
which is built on a detached hill about 150 feet high, contains a
well, but is itself commanded by the hills to the S. and S.W.
within comparatively easy artillery range.
Agat
10
133
Keren
11
144
The water supply is good, but fuel is
scarce in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a rather large
market, some good stores, canteens, Post and Telegraph Office,
&c. The climate here is comparatively cool and healthy.
After quitting Keren, the general
character of the country changes almost at once, and a series of
precipitous hills and mountains, with perennial streams, are
encountered.
Khor Anseba
6½
150½
The best route to Massaua is that by the
new metalled coach road viâ Asmara. This road, after
traversing undulating country for about 8½ miles crosses the bed of
the Khor Anseba, in which are pools during most of the dry
season.
From here there is an almost continuous
ascent till reaching Azteklesan.
Halibaret
6½
157
Six and a half miles further on the
narrow stream of Halibaret is met; good running water.
From here there is a direct caravan route
to Massaua, but water along it is rather scarce, especially in the
dry season.
[The following is an account:—
[Halibaret
—
157
Leaving Halibaret by
the direct track at the bottom of the valley the path is open,
level, and easy. There is a little water to be found in the valley
of the Maldi, but it is scarce in the Beloa valley, which is quite
dry from January to June. The descent to the Beloa is bad. From
Magasas there is a slight descent to the valley of the Maldi, and
thence the road is good to Ambelako, near where running water is
found at Galushima.
Ambelako
25
182
Fil Fil
8
190
Good running water. Between Fil Fil and
Gergeret there are some very steep and stony ascents and descents,
which are difficult for camel caravans. Same applies to the Ailet
defile later on, which however is not so steep, being merely the stony bed of
a stream. The track crosses three ranges of thickly wooded hills,
and water is found in the Solomoni valley, about half way to
Gergeret. The forest becomes less dense and the trees smaller as
one approaches Gergeret.
Gergeret
10
202
Good water is found in abundance here,
except in the months of July and October, when the supply
diminishes considerably.
Ailet
8
210
From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is often
intense, and there is a complete absence of water. Road mostly very
stony, especially in the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and scarce.
[Saati
11
221
N.B.—This route report from
Halibaret to Saati is not very reliable.]
Halibaret (stream)
—
157
Soon after crossing
this the ascent to the Asmara plateau begins in earnest, and the
road zig-zags up rugged mountain sides until the summit is reached,
at Azteklesan, a tukl village, which had a couple of small canteens
(April, 1898), rest-houses, and a plentiful supply of water.
Azteklesan
13½
170½
Siuma Negus
8
178½
From here the direct road winds along
over at first rather a hilly bit of country covered with scattered
bush and trees, and occasional khors, generally with water in them,
until reaching Siuma Negus, where there is a stream of good water,
and a fair-sized village. The metalled coach road, after leaving
Azteklesan, makes a considerable detour to the N., and is 3 or 4
miles longer. From here to Asmara, an open and slightly undulating
fertile plain extends, dotted here and there with villages and
several running streamlets.
Asmara
11½
190
This is the capital of Eritrea, and
residence of the Governor and Military Commandant. It is a military
station of great importance to the Colony, and consequently has a
considerable garrison. There is also a practically impregnable and
heavily armed fort, as well as others of lesser importance. In the
town, which has made great strides of late, are some excellent
shops kept by Europeans, though, beyond the actual officials,
Italians have not yet colonized to any extent. There is a R.C.
Church, club, and some fair cafés.
The Government of Eritrea is carried on
by a Civilian Governor-General and a Military Commandant.
The Army consists (1901) of 600 Italian
soldiers and about 7,000 natives. The artillery corps is recruited
from blacks.
Asmara being roughly 7,000 feet above the
sea has a temperate climate, and frost is not uncommon. There is a
considerable rainfall in the summer months.
From Asmara to Ginda the most direct road
is the mule track which follows the telegraph line down an
exceedingly rocky and precipitous descent which begins about 2½
miles from the edge of the plateau, which again is about the same
distance from the town. After about 2 miles the descent to Ginda,
which is through fine scenery, a deep valley, enclosed on either
side by precipitous mountains, becomes more gradual.
Ginda
15
205
At Ginda there is an excellent canteen
(on a small scale) and good water supply (wells and stream).
The distance by the coach road must be at
least 25 miles.
Sabarguma
5
210
Between Ginda and Sabarguma, where there
is also a canteen and good water, the mule track again is
considerably shorter than the carriage road, and traverses
comparatively easy hills which are covered with thick forest.
Soon after leaving Sabarguma, a plain of
the same name is crossed. This is noted for the intensity of its
heat, and is said to have accounted for many of the flower of the
Italian Army.
Saati
11
221
After crossing the plain, undulating open
country extends to Saati, which was railhead (1898), though now the
railway is said to have reached about half way to Sabarguma
(1901).
At Saati, which is about 400 feet above
the sea, there is a canteen, but water has to be brought from
Massaua by the single line of railway.
Massaua
17
240
Two trains arrive and depart daily.
Massaua contains a good harbour, barracks, very fair shops, and at
least one quite respectable café, but it is a very hot, damp,
unhealthy, and generally unpleasant place. Beninfeld’s agent would
probably be the best man from whom to obtain transport, &c. The
two lines of steamers which call at Massaua are the “Florio
Rubattino” and “Khedivial.”
By Captain H. H. S. Morant,
March, 1900.
General remarks.From Ambarab to
Sogada the road is good enough for camels, and is kept open by
frequent small caravans. There was also said to be a route from
Todluk to Sogada, which was however described as “bad,” probably
hilly.
Beyond Sogada the road itself presents no great difficulties,
but the absence of traffic[40] has allowed the thorny
bushes to close in on it to such an extent as to very seriously
interfere with loaded or riding camels almost the whole way to
Gira.
Once the Setit is reached, there is no real difficulty about
water, but after the first 15 miles or so below Maietib the water
is only accessible at certain places. The further you descend the
river, the broader the strip of broken ground becomes on each side
of the stream, the further the road keeps from it, and the wider
apart are the watering places.
Probably the best plan when marching along the valley is to
spend the heat of the day on the river, and the night on the
plateau above.
Water should be carried in fantasses, as skins get cut to pieces
by the thorns.
Cutting tools are desirable.
No supplies are obtainable nearer than Gedaref on the Setit.
There are no settled inhabitants east of the village of Wad
Heleiwa, 11½ miles E. of Sofi on the Atbara.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Takarashorit
—
—
This appears to be
the name of some wells in the bed of the Gash, about 45 miles above
Kassala. If not constantly used, these wells are quickly filled in
by the sand; but as the water is not more than 6 feet to 10 feet
below the surface, they are easily opened out again. The bed here
is sandy and about 120 yards wide. Ambarab is the name given to a
grassy, and in the rains marshy, place about 1½ miles further up
stream on the left bank.
Ambarab
—
—
There is a road from here to Agordat. The
road to Sogada leads generally in a S. direction for the most part
over level ground covered with more or less thick bush, which
offers no serious obstacle to camels in single file.
There are several tracks, used probably
at different times of the year. There are a few slight ascents and
descents, but nothing at all serious.
Sogada
18
18
The road passes through some low stony
hills partially covered with thorny bush, and at 18 miles it leaves
the village of Sogada about ¾ mile on the left high up on the S.W.
slopes of J. Argoji, the highest hill in the immediate
neighbourhood. The village did not appear to contain more than 25
tukls.
There is a large and deep well at the
foot of the hill, but the water was reported to be bad.
Khor Angaleib
1
19
Track now crosses a level plain enclosed
on all sides by hills, with openings to the W. After crossing the
khor, signs of recent dura cultivation were seen at intervals on
both sides of the road.
Khor Gersat
3
22
Here there is a large well on the N. side
of the khor, which gives a plentiful supply of good water. There
are no tukls actually at the well, as the inhabitants prefer to
build their houses on the hill sides, but there are several
settlements in the immediate neighbourhood, all of which are
included under the district name of Sogada.
The inhabitants are Baza, or Badein, or
Kunama. They are very much afraid of the Bazas of the Setit, who
raid them occasionally, they say, under Abyssinian leadership, but
they seem to be friendly with the Beni Amer, whose merchants
purchase dura from them. The Sheikh’s name is Haidar Wad
Ibrahim.
Dinti
2¼
24¼
From here the track proceeds nearly due
S., but winds about a good deal amongst low hills and through thick
bush, which, with one or two steep-banked khors, greatly impede the
march of loaded camels.
The hamlet of Dinti is passed about 1½
miles to the left on the slopes of J. Dinti. The inhabitants of
Lakatakura were camped in this neighbourhood, but whether they had
left their home on account of the failure of their water supply, or
from fear of the Abyssinians, it was difficult to make out.
3¼
27½
After some more tedious windings the
track descends into a level plain, bounded by the Atbara on the W.,
and Setit on the S., and on the E. by an apparently continuous
range of hills, at the foot of which lies the Baza village of
Lakatakura.
Khor Gullui
2½
30
This khor is a considerable obstacle,
being at least 15 feet deep and perhaps 30 yards wide. The sides
are steep at regular crossing places. A few miles to the W., near
J. Hamid, the water stands for a long time in the khor after the
rains. That place is often referred to by natives as Gullui, and it
seems to be on the old frontier of Hamrans, Beni Amer and
Bazas.
There is some Baza cultivation near the
Khor Gullui.
J. Sabun
5
35
From here on to J. Sabun, a small
isolated hill said to be on the frontier between Hamrans and Bazas,
the track passes through very thick thorn bush, which greatly
impedes loaded camels.
Khor Sanasaba
3¼
38¼
The track leaves J. Sabun just on its
right and turns more to the E. The thorns are less troublesome, and
patches of cultivation and open spaces with high grass are
passed.
Khor Lakisaba
3
41¼
Track continues
through the same class of country nearly due E., and after
ascending the Khor Lakisaba for about 3 miles, it leaves it and
ascends its left bank, making straight for the hills. Eventually it
enters the valley of the Lakisaba, and a halt was made in its bed
in a spot enclosed between the hills of J. Komkom and J.
Agachina.
Halting-place
5¾
47
There was no better reason for the
selection of this halting-place, which was at least a mile off our
road, than that it was perhaps the nearest point to the water at
the head of the Khor Lakisaba, to which loaded camels could go
without considerable difficulty. This water, the only water within
about 20 miles in any direction, is said to be contained in a large
cleft in the rock about 1 hour’s camel march beyond the
halting-place. The cleft is high up in the rocks, and all the water
has to be carried down by hand.
There were a few Baza families there, who
assisted in the watering of our animals and filling our fantasses,
but the delay was very great.
Lakatakura lies about 3½ to 4
miles N. of the Khor Lakisaba. It was deserted, and the
well was said to be dry.
R. Setit
21
68
After retracing our steps for a mile we
struck off in a S. direction, and followed a track made by an
Italian hunting party a few days before. This track had evidently
not been used for many years, as it was all overgrown with thorns,
and was very indistinct in places. Fortunately the hunting party
had been obliged to partially clear it for their camels, and after
considerable difficulties we emerged from the hills after going
about 12 miles, and reached the Khor Maichhi. Here there are many
hashab, baobab, and sunt trees. Soon after the Khor Maietib is
crossed, and places were seen where it is said water used formerly
to remain even during the hot weather. After a few more miles
through undulating wooded country the track leads suddenly on to
the bank of the Setit opposite a large pool about 1 mile below its
junction with the Khor Maietib, which is said to be the old
boundary between the Hamran and Baza tribes. There was some tobacco
growing in this khor which was said to have been planted by the
Abyssinian Baza.
About here the Setit averages 100 to 150
yards wide, with a good deal of running water in it, though
frequently fordable at this season (March). Banks 20 to 30 feet
high with a good deal of tamarisk.
K. Debebi
1
69
Following river, down
right bank K. Debebi and Abu Osher are crossed.
K. Abu Osher
2½
71½
J. Mudassir
4½
76
J. Mudassir is left ¾
mile on right and after crossing K. Meshra El Gedad J. Elaklei is
also left same distance on right place on right bank named Darfit is passed, and
Khor Um Hagar reached, the jebel of same name being 1 mile on
right. Soon after crossing this khor, a track leads N. to Abu
Gamal. Broken ground now begins.
K. Meshra El Gedad
1½
77½
J. Elaklei
1
78½
Darfit
1
79½
Um Hagar
1
80½
Helegim
1
81½
After crossing the
island of Helegim and marching down bed of river, good shade is
reached on left bank.
Halt
1½
83
J. Um Hagar
2
85
From here, leaving
the river which was running S.W., owing to impossibility of
marching along it on account of ravines and thick bush, a N.
direction was taken to foot of J. Um Hagar, then, turning W.,
marched over bad cotton soil chiefly along elephant tracks at foot
of low ridge of hills left on right till, reaching a shorter
detached ridge, we turned S., passing Hafeira, an old burial ground
of Hamrans, and descended to the river at Umbrega, where the Setit
flows between white cliffs, Geif El Hamam, on left bank, and
precipitous ground on right bank. The last 17 miles had been nearly
all bad going, and game paths were the only tracks met. Game
between Maietib and Umbrega plentiful. Lion, abu ma’arif (Roan
Antelope), kudu, water-buck, tétel (tora hartebeeste), bushbuck,
ariel, gazelle, oribi, dig-dig, wart-hog, hippo. Numbers of giraffe
and elephant tracks were seen, but buffalo tracks only twice.
General.From Gallabat to where the
track crosses the Gandoa, ground is undulating and track
continually crosses khors which drain into the Gandoa or the
Atbara. Country bushed and rocky, but stretches of cotton soil in
places; from the Gandoa on to Chelga track gets worse and gradients
more severe and valleys running down from the Escarp more deeply
cut.
Water.Is in plenty all along the
road, there is not an interval of 10 miles without good water.
Supplies.Perhaps a little dura can
be obtained at Wahni (up to an ardeb or two) otherwise
non-existent.
Inhabitants.Belata Dasta’s village
is at Wahni, otherwise no inhabitants except roving bands of
hunters, usually Tigréans.
Transport.Mule, donkey and pony
pack-transport only suitable, though camels said to have been used
as far as Wahni.
Passes.The Emperor’s pass is a
necessity.
Game.Plentiful on Atbara and
Gandoa.
Escort.An escort of 8 to 10 men is
necessary in case of bandits.
N.B.—W = Wauz = Khor. T = Tarara = Jebel.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gallabat
—
—
Leaving Gallabat,
path crosses Khor Abnakheir; ground rises from khor rough and
stony; about 300 yards from it, a track leads in a more southerly
direction to Kwara; track, running a little S. of E., passes round
S. end of Tarara Mariam Waha (200 feet); skirting S. of this hill
and its continuations, path is rough, cut up by small khors running
S. from them; at mile 3, low hills begin on S. of track and
continue for a mile, track rough, winding, and cut up by small
khors running N. From here country becomes more open, cotton soil,
and low trees until
a small khor fringed with big trees is reached, and a few hundred
yards on, Khor Chincha, a rocky khor, water plentiful. Track
meanders on through rocky ground, rough going, for a mile, when
cotton soil and more or less open country is reached; another 1½
miles, and a rocky khor is reached.
Tarara Mariam Waha
2
2
2
4
Khor Chincha
1
5
Khor Sababa
2½
7½
(Khor Sababa.) A few
hundred yards on is the halting-place Wahsha, steep cliff on N. of
khor making waterfall when water sufficient, still rough going,
cotton soil and rocky alternately; ¾ mile on, cross Khor Abd El
Rizak Gowari (12 yards wide), cotton soil thickly wooded at mile
10. A small khor is crossed and ¼ mile on Khor Goghan; at mile 10½,
Khor Koki, or Shatta, is crossed; this is a very winding, deep
khor, banks 10 feet, bed shingly, 15 yards wide, water very
plentiful, good shade. Track crosses this khor twice more before
leaving it, when country becomes fairly open, with small trees, and
after 2 miles reaches and passes to S. of a small hill (120 feet),
Tarara Jingandibba (or J. Wad Manna). Path now continually crosses
small khors running N.; at mile 16 Khor Ardeiba is passed, and 2
miles on Khor Wandoferi is crossed (7 yards wide, banks 6 feet
high, not much water, good shade); ¾ mile good going, and track
begins to descend, and ½ mile on reaches Khor Aftit (12 yards wide,
banks 10 feet high, good water and shade). ½ mile on crosses small
khor, country much cut up. 1½ miles on Khor Shahadi (16 yards wide,
deep pools, general direction N.) is crossed; ¾ mile on path skirts
edge of cliff 50 feet high, at bottom of which is Khor Shahadi; at
mile 23¾ track descends rapidly, and ¼ mile on crosses small khor;
½ mile further on small khor of flowing water, and at mile 25¼ Khor
Gandoa (50 yards wide in deep pools). From this point road to
Dagussa leads off up left bank of Gandoa. Crossing Gandoa, track
runs almost parallel with it, low hills 1,000 yards off to N. and
also on other side of Gandoa; at mile 27 track crosses Ofing Gandoa
W. (small, with water), and at mile 27½ passes close S. of a hill
(200 feet). Bamboos now first observed in abundance; ¼ mile on path
crosses Jirar W. (15 yards wide, pools of water). At mile 28 path
passes close N. of a low hill running down towards the Gandoa, and
at mile 30½ close S. of another hill, low hills still to N.; 2¼
miles on reach Agam W., flowing water (named from the lilac-like
flowering bush growing there). At mile 33¼ cross small khor, and
another khor 2 miles from Agam W., low hills now only 250 yards off
to N.; ½ mile on pass close to S. of another hill. At mile 36 track
crosses a small stony khor with a thick fringe of bamboos, and ¾
mile on close round the S. of a bluff; ¾ mile small khor, and at
mile 38 reaches Abai W., a running stream coming from among some
hills about 600 feet high and 1,500 yards off N. of road. Track now
leads up the valley of a small khor with low hills on both sides
quite close, dense jungle of bamboo, high grass, etc., but after 1¼
miles begins to ascend a spur rapidly, and in course of the next
half mile rises about 200 feet, then across a flat with
amphitheatre of precipitous flat-topped hills (600 feet) to N.,
about 2,000 yards off, to southern end of Tarara Kamachela (700 to
800 feet). Track passes round S. of Kamachela, and close under it,
running at right angles to its former direction; still under hill
crosses khor of water, and a mile on reaches site of Wahni Suk (no
buildings). From the Suk there is very steep path leading up to the
village of Wahni (uninhabited when seen); this is situated on the
top of Kamachela, a plateau sloping away to the N. There is a
little cultivation below (dura and cotton), but grain can only be
bought in very limited quantities. From Wahni Suk track resumes its
old course; after 1 mile a khor (10 yards wide) full of water is
crossed, and ½ mile on track passes through two or three low hills.
½ mile on a small khor of water is crossed. Here the “Candelabra
cactus” makes its first appearance. Path now descends rapidly, and
reaches khor in bottom of valley about 250 feet below Wahni Suk.
Since crossing the Gandoa, khors have all been running more or less
W., but from here, after ascending out of valley, another water system is
encountered, the water running N. Path ascends and crosses spurs,
running N. from a square precipitous hill, Tarara Angedibba.
Khor Koki
3
10½
Tarara Jingandibba
2
12½
Khor Wandoferi
5½
18
Khor Aftit
1¼
19¼
Khor Shahadi
2
21¼
Khor Gandoa
4
25¼
2¼
27½
½
28
2½
30½
Agam W.
2¼
32¾
3¼
36
Abai W.
2
38
Tarara Kamachela
3
41
Wahni Suk
3½
44½
1
45½
1
46½
1
47½
1
48½
1¼
49¾
At mile 49¾ saddle N.
of Tarara Angedibba is passed over, and path at once descends
rapidly into the jungley valley of the Baloha W., some small khors
are crossed, and 2 miles from saddle there is a small hill on left
of path; ¾ mile on track crosses Baloha W., a babbling stream 12
yards wide, two or three times, and at mile 53¼ begins to ascend
rapidly, and in ¼ mile reaches saddle under Tarara Baloha. Striking
along the hill for ¾ mile track crosses a spur, and descends into
the valley of Sunkwa W., flowing water, reaching latter after
another 1¼ miles. Path now ascends rapidly out of khor, and after 1
mile passes close N. of a hill (some 250 feet high); two or three
small khors are crossed running N., and 2¼ miles from the Sunkwa
path reaches a saddle, hills visible N. and S.; path now ascends
and runs along the N. side of a range of hills for 4 miles, when
track skirts to N. of a knobby hill on top of the range; there is a
little water in a khor running down the hill northwards here, but
not enough for baggage animals; track now changes to S. side of
range and skirts along, winding in and out between gullies and
spurs until a small pool of water is reached in Savinki W.
2
51¾
1¾
53½
Sunkwa W.
2
55½
Savinki W.
3¾
66½
Gint W.
2
68½
From here track runs
a few hundred yards almost due south, then changes to south-east,
ground more level as nearer base of hills; now reaches Gint W.,
close under Tarara Wahamba, a jagged basaltic remnant. Track now
winds for about a mile, turning continually at right angles, as
ground is very rough and cut up by khors. Path finally crosses to
south of Gint W., a running stream, and ascends a spur of Wali Deva
range, rounding spurs and crossing khors; at mile 72¼ track, which
is close down to khor, rises sharply up a spur for 300 yards, and
skirts along higher up. At mile 75¾ path again rises rapidly up a
spur, and after a pretty hard climb of some 1,600 feet passes up a
cleft and reaches top of escarpment at head of valley of Gint W.
Country is now open and rolling, track ascends gradually for 2½
miles, when it crosses the watershed. Here a view of Lake Tsana is
obtained. Path now descends, easy gradients, into the Goang valley,
and reaches Chelga at mile 84¾.
3¾
72¼
3½
75¾
Top of Escarpment
—
—
2½
81¼
Chelga
3½
84¾
By Captain A. C. Parker, Royal
Sussex Regiment, March, 1904.
General.Goja to Gallabat fair
path, better than Chelga to Gallabat Road, but after descent of
Escarp there are several bad places.
Water.Is plentiful, nowhere more
than 10 miles interval without it.
Supplies.Obtainable nil.
Inhabitants.Abyssinian villages
from Lake Tsana up to watershed. A monastry at Mabra Solasi near
Bamba. Stray hunting parties in the country adjoining the
frontier.
Transport.Mule, donkey, and pony
pack-transport only suitable.
Path leaves Goja in a
northerly direction through high grass, and crosses a small khor
almost at once. After 1 mile passes round west side of a low hill;
1½ miles on cross Anfordibba W. Full of running water; ground rises
slowly; open country; path crosses Ariko W., full of water, and,
still ascending, leaves small hill on left, and at mile 4 passes a
big tree marking spot where market used to be held.
Ariko
1¾
2¾
Amusgebaia
1¼
4
“Amusgebaia”—legend
says tree was used for hanging people. Cross four small khors, and,
still gradually ascending, reach Goanderat village. Track crosses
two small khors and gradually runs up side of a small valley on to
watershed; now descends slowly, and reaches camping ground at
Barbaria Kora (small amount of water). Ground slopes away for
another 1½ miles, when track descends rapidly down north side of a
gully and, striking down a spur, reaches a saddle; now skirts north
side of spur, path descending rapidly. At mile 12½ track passes
along edge of a sheer precipice; shortly after path runs sharply
down a spur in a more northerly direction; at mile 14 it leaves
spur and leads down steep rocky descent across small khor and
reaches camping place, “Diloa W.”; said to be water in khor, but I
did not see it. Track now very much shut in, thick bush and rough
stony descents, an especially bad one at mile 16¾. At mile 17 track
follows bed of small khor, crossing it continually, track bad,
thick bush, shut in both sides by hills; at mile 19 this khor joins
Ganbilo W.; juncture is called Girad Mwat, there is abundant water.
Follows Ganbilo W., a khor 20 yards wide with pools, crossing it
six times in the next 2¾ miles; track now passes between two hills,
that on N. being very steep and probably end of a ridge which runs
down from Tankal. Path now descends slowly, bamboo jungle, and 1½
miles on reaches junction of two khors, Goandera W., water
plentiful. 1¾ miles on path crosses khor (Tukur Waha W.); path now
along right bank of Jira W., 25 yards wide with large pools, then
cross Ambo W. This comes from a spring about ½ mile further back in
hill, where it bubbles up quite warm; a couple of hundred yards off
on the other side of the Jira lie the hot baths Mwat Abba Mariam.
2½ miles on pass to N. of low hill; hills on N. of path about 400
yards off, Jira W. still lying parallel with road but some way off
to S.; at mile 31¾ track runs close to the Jira, here deep water
but narrow for 500 yards, when a deep khor coming from N. is
crossed; track now leaves Jira and leads up a defile down which a
khor, a tributary of Jira runs; cross this khor for first time at
mile 33, steep precipitous hills on both sides, path ascending
dense bamboo thickets, reach water at mile 37¼. Ascent from Jira
has been 300 or 400 feet; path now descends rapidly 350 feet, and
leads down north side of a flat valley, path good, and reaches
Wanenta, water sufficient for party of 30 or so; now along north
side of valley close under low hills; on south side of valley is a
very prominent cone-shaped hill. Cross Shimel Waha W., water
abundant, and 1 mile on cross small khor, halting-place under a
gemmeiza tree, called Bamba, track level and good; cross Jineta
Mariam W., running water, and 1¼ miles on another running stream,
called Mariam Waha W.; ¼ mile further track passes close north of a
hill; ground now broken up by spurs running northwards; path now
descends and crosses Nefoing Gandoa W. just at the junction with
the Gandoa; another 1½ miles on and Jigebit camping ground on the
Gandoa is reached. 2¼ miles on cross khor of running water, and at
mile 57 cross Barkurkur W., a small khor of flowing water; 2 miles
on track passes south of Tarara Bisaurkudat, and ½ mile on reaches
Malkam Waha W., a small khor of flowing water. At mile 60¾ crosses
a khor of running water and another one 500 or 600 yards on; at
mile 62½ pass close to a bend of the Gandoa, and 1 mile on across
the Wahsha W.; after another mile cross a big khor, and 700 yards
on a small khor with water; another deep khor without water is
crossed, and then the Gandoa is reached. Path skirts it for some
hundreds of yards till it reaches point where Wahni road
crosses.
Goanderat
¾
4¾
2¾
7½
Barbaria Kora
1
8½
2¼
10¾
1¾
12½
Diloa W.
1¾
14¼
Girad Mwat
4¾
19
4
23
Goandera W.
1½
24½
Ambo
2¼
26¾
Mwat Abba Mariam
1¼
28
2½
30½
1¼
31¾
1¼
33
4¼
37¼
Wanenta
4½
41¾
Shimel Waha W.
3¼
45
Bamba
1
46
Jineta Mariam
2¼
48¼
1½
49¾
Nefoing Gandoa
1¾
51½
Jigebit
1½
53
2¼
55¼
Barkurkur
1¾
57
Malkam Waha W.
2½
59½
1¾
62½
Wahsha W.
1
63½
Gandoa
2½
66
Measurements by pacing, pace reckoned 32½
inches.
By Mr. J. Baird, May,
1901.
Place.
Miles.
Hours’ march.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
H.
M.
Addis Abbaba
—
—
—
The road from Addis Abbaba is rough and
hilly. Three nullahs are crossed, two of them with steep sides. No
fuel. Barley can be bought. Excellent grazing. Two good streams 50
yards from camp (S.).
Sallulta
4
4
1
50
Excellent going over undulating grass
country. Six streams crossed, all easy and containing a fair supply
of water. Many villages and much ploughed land en route.
Cattle and horses numerous; fuel plentiful. Last hour’s march
through acacia scrub. Good stream. Supplies as before.
Muggur-Affaf
21½
25½
8
35
The descent into the
Muggur, commencement of which is reached 2 hours after leaving
camp, is precipitous and unrideable. Loaded mules get down with
difficulty. Muggur reached 4 hours from start. Ascent to other (N.)
side of valley is easier, but also mostly unrideable. Camp at edge
of S. plateau. No water between camps, except Muggur. Two villages
passed in valley, one on either side of river. Some cotton and
barley grown. Monkeys and florican on hills. Each side of River
Muggur 2,800 feet below either plateau. Grazing bad; barley and
sheep in small quantities. A fair stream 100 yards N. of camp. Wood
plentiful in Muggur valley, but scarce immediately round camp.
Yaïya
16½
42
7
5
Kessi
17½
59½
6
45
Easy marching over undulating grass
country; for the last 1½ hours through occasional chavaha trees.
Fuel scarce. The hills, which are a mile E. and N.E. of camp, are
wooded, but plains are treeless. Excellent grazing; fair supplies
of barley and sheep. A small stream 100 yards N. of camp.
Jarso
21½
81
8
35
Excellent going over gently undulating
grass plateau. Few streams crossed, and water usually scarce and
bad. No trees. A few villages. Few cattle. A large market at Jarso
on Saturdays; barley, sheep, and fuel to be bought. Fair stream 50
yards W. of camp.
Blue Nile (right bank)
14
95
7
0
This camp is a very bad one. Tents have
to be pitched on the track, which runs along the steep N. bank of
the Nile. Any amount of fuel. The descent is unrideable, and mules
have to be unloaded once to get through narrow pass. River 4,680
feet below S. plateau. Few mosquitoes. Many crocodiles and good
fish can be caught in Nile. No water between Jarso and river. No
grazing and no supplies. Wood abundant.
Dejen
13½
108½
7
0
The first part of ascent is most trying
for mules. At one part they have to be unloaded and load carried up
steps for 40 feet (1 hour 13 minutes after start); the remainder of
the road runs over successive plateaux, connected by steep ascents.
Village of Mere (friendly chief, Balambaras Nagau) near top of
ascent, and considerable amount of cultivation around it. Excellent
grazing; plentiful supplies from neighbouring village. Water bad
and little from stream 100 yards E. of camp. Wood scarce.
Abukerk
14½
123
6
0
A good camping-place in sheltered cup.
Wood plentiful on surrounding hills. A fair number of villages in
neighbourhood, and some cultivation. Excellent going, mostly over
undulating grass; treeless plain from Dejen. A few streams en
route. Latter part along wooded western slope of ridge.
Excellent grazing; supplies plentiful. Water, good supply from
stream 50 yards W. of camp. Wood abundant.
Askatta
7½
130½
3
15
Camp on treeless slope of undulating
plain, over which road led from Abukerk. Several streams crossed,
all easy, and going excellent all the way. Little cultivation; good
grazing. Supplies plentiful at neighbouring village. Water, fair
supply from stream 100 yards below camp. Wood scarce.
Debra Markos
10½
141
4
30
The track is hilly, and in some places
the descents are steep and slippery after rain. Much of the road
lies through thick acacia scrub, almost impassable except by the
main mule track. Water plentiful. Track narrow in places. Large
market.
Delma
18½
159½
7
0
Small camping ground on a slope running
from N.N.W. to a fair stream running W. Excellent going,
alternately through cultivation, bush and plain. Many rivers en
route, all easily crossed. Grazing bad. Villages in
neighbourhood numerous. Barley plentiful and cheap. Wood and water
abundant.
Dembecha
9½
169
2
40
A steep descent 5 minutes after starting,
and fairly steep descent and ascent into and out of Tumcha river;
the track, except for the last hour, leads through scrub and thick
wood; the crossing of the Gadlar is easy, low banks. Excellent
camping ground on the E. side of Dembecha, ½ mile from Gadlar;
first rate grazing. Barley, rif. Market on Mondays. Water abundant;
wood on surrounding hills, and can be bought.
River Bakkalla
19
188
6
45
Passing through Dembecha the road ascends
gradually for the first ½ hour some 200 feet over open grass
country; it then drops into a thick forest, where the track is so
narrow and deep that two mules could not pass in some places; thick
undergrowth. After three-quarters of an hour’s march, the Cherika
stream is crossed 350 feet below the Dembecha; from here onwards
the trees and the undergrowth are far less thick, and the track no
longer runs in a deep rut. During the next three-quarters of an
hour the road drops gradually 250 feet, and then falls 500 feet in
20 minutes down to the Kacham river. The descent is easy. The river
in May is some 15 yards wide, from 1 to 2 feet deep, with a swift
current; flat, wooded banks. Large, flat, slippery stones make the
crossing rather troublesome. The valley of this river is about ¾
mile wide. The road now rises 290 feet, crossing a spur which juts
out from the hills bounding Kacham’s valley on the W. and dropping
again to 10 feet below the Kacham’s level, crosses the Birr river
50 minutes later. The bed of the Birr at the crossing is some 80
yards wide, the left bank 15 to 20 feet high and the right bank
lower; the water (7th May) runs with a swift current, about 1 foot
deep, over a rocky bed in two channels, separated by a mass of
black rock. 200 yards below the crossing there is a fall of some 30
feet, below which the river runs in a narrow gorge enclosed by
black rocks; 300 yards below this it is crossed by a rough log
bridge. The road from here runs over an undulating grass-covered
plain, bare at
first, but during the last 2 hours’ march, wooded. The Rivers
Sarinwaha, Tamim, Lach and Bakkalla are crossed, as well as two
unnamed streams; in May they none of them present any difficulty.
The camp is a small and bad one on the sloping N. bank of the
Bakkalla river. Wood and water plentiful, also barley.
Burre
9½
197½
4
0
As far as Monkussa the track winds N.W.
and W. over undulating grass country dotted with acacia trees.
Parallel to the road, on the S. side of it, and apparently about 5
miles off, runs a chain of hills. The river Birr flows past the
southern end, and the Lach the northern of this range; they join on
the far side and flow into the Blue Nile. One small stream is
crossed before reaching Monkussa, and one immediately after leaving
that village, the Dawuna by name, 20 yards wide; water knee-deep in
May, with a strong current. The crossing is troublesome on account
of very slippery, flat stones. After leaving Monkussa, the track
winds through more thickly-wooded country, and eventually runs over
a treeless plain, out of which rises the knoll where Burre is
built. There is ample space for a good camp No wood at the town,
but easily procured close by. Water supply not seen, but must be
fairly copious. Large supplies.
This is the capital of Damot, the seat of
Ras Warke, the governor, and the centre of a populous, fertile, and
cultivated district.
The villages of Waan and Zoava are passed
between Monkussa and Burre.
Chara
6½
204
2
30
An easy march through a populous, well
cultivated, undulating country. Good camping ground on the edge of
a stream; villages all around. Supplies, wood and water
plentiful.
Anjavera
18
222
7
20
Eight miles through undulating
cultivation; cross Fattom river, tributary of Blue Nile, 40 yards
wide and 3 feet deep at crossing; stream sluggish. Then 2½ miles
through dense forest, after which track twists through wooded hills
into a fairly populous and cultivated plain. Rise of 600 feet
during march. Inhabitants not very friendly. Supplies as before,
and some cattle.
Dangalla
20½
242½
8
0
Rise rapidly 300 feet. Cross
thickly-wooded ridge forming water-parting between Tsana and Blue
Nile systems, then drop by narrow winding track through dense
forest into rich, undulating, well-watered country, with patches of
cultivation. Track in places very narrow, and worn deep into the
clay. Four hundred yards N.W. of point where track emerges from
wooded ridge, rises a sugar-loaf hill, called Zurachi, about 1,000
feet, forming a conspicuous landmark. E. of track are several
isolated hills, among which is Saatma, visible for some distance on
either side of Anjavera. Last 8 miles through populous and fertile
district of Achaffer. Camp in centre of four scattered villages.
After crossing ridge excellent going. Wood and water scarce.
Ismaila
7
249½
2
30
Good camp. Fair water and supplies.
Nefassa
16
265½
6
30
Cross River Barati, tributary of Blue
Nile; easy crossing; thence up gentle slope past Libtan, a large
village with considerable amount of cultivation; skirt foot of
hills bounding valley of Blue Nile on W. to Nefassa. Poor, thinly
populated district. Supplies scarce; no sheep or cattle. Water and
wood scarce.
Liven
6
271½
2
25
A good camping ground. Open country. Good
road from Ismaila. Barley can be bought, but no sheep; a few cattle
in the neighbourhood. Wood plentiful; small water supply.
Forehe
9½
281
3
45
Good camp. A good road from Liven.
Natives unfriendly. Supplies and water scarce.
Konsuli (Lake Tsana)
5½
286½
2
0
A small camping ground 100 yards from the
lake; a good road from Forehe. Natives unfriendly. Wood, water and
barley plentiful.
Goja (Lake Tsana)
19
305½
7
30
A rough road through the hills which
border the lake; no water en route; a bad damp camping
ground on the foreshore of the lake. Another road follows the
water’s edge from Konsuli. This is longer, but said to be
better.
Dumgi
11
316½
3
0
A good road, and a good camping ground.
Poor grazing. Water from lake.
Berbera Kora
5
321½
1
50
A good camping ground in a hollow;
excellent grazing. Water supply fair. Plenty of wood. No
supplies.
Ghimfyva River
9½
331
5
0
A very rough march, and a very bad camp
in a narrow, rocky, thickly-wooded valley. Cross water-parting
between Tsana and Atbara systems, 600 feet above Lake. Track
narrow, twisting, and in places very steep, only practicable for
mule or donkey transport; descent of 3,500 feet in last 5 hours.
Practically no grazing. Wood, but little water in rocks.
River Jera
12½
343½
4
50
Another very rough march. A fair little
camping ground with good shade; a little grazing. Plenty of wood
and water.
Camp near water holes
10½
354
4
10
A good camping ground. The first part of
the road is rough, but after crossing a ridge nearly 1,000 feet
above the Jera river it becomes considerably easier; thick clumps
of bamboo are difficult for loaded mules to get through in places.
Hardly any grazing. Fair amount of water. Plenty of wood.
Ghindoa (Gandoa) River
21½
375½
8
50
A good camp; fair going, except for the
thick clumps of bamboo, which are a little difficult for loaded
mules to get through in places. A halt can be made at some water
passed 6 hours 5 minutes after starting. Hardly any grazing. No
supplies. Wood and water plentiful.
Chincha River
22
397½
8
20
Good going and a good camping ground.
Very little grazing. Wood and water as before.
Matemma (Gallabat)
5½
403
2
0
An easy march over a good road.
This road from the lake is the one followed by the Emperor John
when he went down to Matemma with some 20,000 (?) men in 1889 and
was killed by the Dervishes. The rains had barely commenced during
the present journey, therefore there was hardly any grass, and
water was scarce during the first 3 days’ march from the lake. Both
water and grass must be abundant after the rains, and while these
are falling the mountain torrents are said to make the road
impassable; it could be greatly improved by clearing the bamboos
and other trees which in places almost conceal the track.
By Lieutenant Gwynn,
D.S.O., 1900.
Note—
G. = Gara, mountain range.
J. = Jebel.
T. = Tulu, mountain peak.
K. = Khor.
L. = Laga, stream.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Addis Abbaba
—
—
British Residency
—
—
The British Residency is situated at the
foot of a spur running S. from the Entotto range, and bounding the
Addis Abbaba valley on the E. It lies just clear of the most
easterly native huts. About 600 yards immediately N. of it is the
Russian Agency, and about the same distance to the W.N.W. of the
latter, on the opposite side of the stream, is the Russian doctor’s
enclosure formerly occupied by the Rodd Mission. For position of
other European missions, &c., see Count Gleichen’s map
of Addis Abbaba (I.D.W.O., 1897).
The water supply of the British Residency
is drawn from a spring on the slopes at the back of the compound,
and a surface channel from the spring supplies a small tank in the
compound for watering horses, &c.
The compound is surrounded with a solid
mud wall, surmounted by a continuous hurdle work fence.
Gibe (King’s Enclosure)
1½
1½
Lies pretty well in the centre of the
town, on a long flat spur running down from Entotto. The enclosure
is formed by a high wooden palisade, and at the present time an
outer wall, solidly built in stone, is being constructed. Inside
the palisade the enclosure is divided by numerous stone walls and
wooden fences; the buildings are strongly built, but there are many
thatched buildings and a lot of woodwork.
Water supply is laid on in iron mains
from Entotto, and there is an artificial surface channel just
outside the enclosure.
The town of Addis Abbaba extends about 3
miles from E. to W., but the houses are scattered haphazard and
there are no streets; the tracks running between the houses are
very rough, and the crossings of the streams are bad, in particular
in the rains. A few rough narrow bridges exist, but are not used in
the dry season.
After clearing the town there is a wide
flat spur before the Akaki (Western) is reached, which would form a
fine camping ground.
Akaki (1st branch)
4½
6
Small stream in deep gully.
Akaki (2nd branch)
1
7
Stream, 15 feet wide,
1 foot deep, rapid, in a deep gully; very steep on W. side. The col
connecting the Entotto with the Managasha Hills is a fine
manœuvring ground for troops of all arms, and is, on the whole,
flat and open, though it is intersected by a few narrow valleys
draining to the Akaki. Almost all these contain water. The whole
mass of mountains S. of the road is generally called Managasha, but
this name strictly applies to the steep round-topped hill just S.
of the road at the watershed. The main mountain is called Wochochu
by the indigenous Gallas.
T. Managasha
6
13
Fitaurari Hapto Gorgis’s house lies a
little N. of the road just where the descent into the Walata valley
commences, and his territory stretches S.W. from this point.
T. Managasha is well wooded, as are the
steep slopes forming the escarp connecting G. Managasha and G.
Foweita.
The road descends this escarp by a fairly
well graded, though steep, line, crossing several small
streams.
Kaffa road
1
14
About 1 mile after commencing the
descent, the road to Kaffa and Limmu branches off S.W. towards the
sharp cone to Wata Dalecho; to the left of the road, near the
bottom of the escarp, is the Abunas house, situated among thick
trees.
L. Walata
8
22
At the foot of the escarp the woody road
stops and then enters a flat grass valley, in the middle of which
is the Walata, a stream about 20 feet wide and 1 foot deep.
L. Dalota
5
27
Between Walata and Dalota flat grassland,
with a few Galla farms. L. Dalota, rapid, 20 feet wide, 1 foot
deep.
Addis Alem (British
Location)
1½
28½
The road rises
steeply from the stream to the wooded spur on which Addis Alem is
being built. To the N. of the road the escarp commences which marks
the watershed between the Nile and Hawash, and extends without
break from this point to the River Gude. The escarp and spurs
running from it are well wooded and well watered, the main spurs
being broken up into minor features. The British and Italian
locations are side by side to the S. of the stream which runs
through the town; the ground to the S. of them is flat for 800
yards or so, and at present fairly thickly wooded. On the N. it
drops very steeply to the stream about 40 feet.
Addis Alem Gibe
½
29
No building has yet been commenced on the
British location, but Major Ciccodicola has built several large
houses of the ordinary Tukl pattern, and has laid out and commenced
another house of more European design, the lower story of which is
stone.
The Gibe is built on a knoll between two
streams, the drop towards the southern one being very steep. The
main buildings will be on the N. shoulder of the knoll. On the
northern slope of the knoll is a sort of park enclosed by a ditch
and palisade. This is evidently intended for a defensible camp, as
the enclosure on the top of the knoll is too small for any
considerable force.
Water supply is not very good for the
town, but a main for the supply of the Gibe is being laid from the
spur to the N.E.
L. Barga
5
34
Road W. of Addis Alem, though not so well
worn as between Addis Alem and Addis Abbaba, is, on the whole, well
defined and good, being much used by the traders from Leka,
Lekempti Walega, and Kelina (Chelim), and the soldiers of Dejaj
Damasi, Dejaj Gumsa (Gabri Xiavrihir), and Dejaj Goti (Joti).
At first it runs along a well-wooded
spur, then crosses the Barga, which runs in a deep, steep-sided
valley, 20 feet by 1 foot; rapid.
L. Jemjem
6
40
Between the Barga and Jemjem are several
small streams with fair water. The Jemjem is 12 feet wide and 6
inches deep; rapid. Road runs at the foot of the spurs in open
country; the escarp to the N. is steeper and the spurs are shorter;
to the S. is the flat open grass land of the Hawash Valley, which
would probably be very swampy during the rains; the road
practically is the boundary between Ras Mangasha Atakem’s territory
on the N., and Fitaurari Hapto Giorgis on the S. It actually lies,
however, in Ras Mangasha’s country.
Hawash River
6½
48½
Between Jemjem and Hawash the country is
quite open. Three small muddy streams are crossed. Hawash, 20 feet
by 6 inches; rapid, beautiful water.
L. Bagaga
8½
57
A very small stream, draining to the
Gude. No water between it and the Hawash on the road crossing the
watershed. To the S. are the Chavo Mountains, and to the N. the
escarp rises to a high shoulder at G. Ilfata. From this point the
road traverses a succession of open spurs running N. to the L.
Dabis, a tributary of the Gude. On the N. of the Dabis the escarp
rises in huge terraced cliffs.
L. Meiti or Sellen
3½
60½
Small stream, with good water; before
reaching it a dry watercourse and two small streams are
crossed.
W. of the Laga Meiti the country is
everywhere more or less wooded, though the trees are small, except
by the streams or on the mountain slopes. This is due to constant
grass fires.
L. Hulogka
7
67½
L. Hulogka, 30 feet by 1 foot; rapid; is
a fine stream. About 3 miles N. of the road is a church and a hot
spring. Between the L. Meiti and L. Hulogka, the L. Awaru drains a
marshy valley.
Tulu Dintu
4½
72
Road passes over rather a hilly bit of
country, crossing the Taltale and Birbissu streams at 2½ and 3½
miles respectively; both small, with good water.
Tulu Dintu was formerly residence of
Dejaj Hailo Hariam, brother of Ras Makunnen. Now few huts are
occupied.
River Gude Bridge
3½
75½
Flat country between Tula Dintu and Gude,
thickly wooded near the latter; two tributaries of the Gude have to
be crossed, both small streams with good water.
The Gude is a beautiful stream, running
from one deep rock pool to another at the bottom of sheer-sided
channel, 30 feet deep.
A good wooden bridge, 6 feet wide, on
stone abutments, has been built, evidently under M. Ilg’s
direction.
The ground near the stream is too thickly
wooded and confined to be a good camping place.
The Gude flows N. to the Abai, cutting
through the escarp in a wonderful canon about a mile wide, with
sheer sides some 2,000 feet high. Beautiful scenery.
L. Kili
10
85½
From the Gude the road rises steeply and
runs round the northern spurs of the mountain group which
culminates in G. Ragge. The first ascent is very steep, but road is
fully well graded, and the conical peak of T. Befti is left to the
right.
Small streams are crossed at 4, 4½, 7½,
and 9 miles. About 4 miles N. of the road is a deep valley, running
from W. to E. to the Gude, and on the N. side of it the escarp
rises precipitously. The spurs of G. Ragge are thickly wooded, and
are divided by steep valleys.
L. Kili, a good stream, 15 feet wide and
6 inches deep, in a narrow valley.
L. Aresu
4½
90
Road rises very steeply from the Kili
over the shoulder of T. Boke, and descends steeply into the
Humbolsha Valley (stream dries up) at 2½ miles, then a slight rise
and another steep descent to the Aresu, a small stream, but with
good water and a good open camping ground on its W. bank.
Chelia District (Gedda village)
10
100
From the Aresu the road winds round the
south-western end of the Rafisokili Valley, passing over
numerous spurs and small streams. L. Mata Arba,
at the third mile, is western boundary of Ras Mangasha’s territory,
and the eastern boundary of Chelia, which belongs to Queen
Taitu. Country much broken, and fairly thickly wooded.
The village of Gedda, formerly the
residence of Dejaj Desta (Ras Darge’s son, now dead), is on the
narrow water partly between the Gude (Blue Nile) and Gibbe (Omo)
basins; there is a considerable population and a church here.
L. Garsa
12
112
After crossing the watershed the road
drops at first very steeply, and then more gradually, into the
Gibbe Valley; the surface of the road is good, and level ground is
reached at the end of the third mile. At 1½ miles a road branches
off to S.W., probably that shown on the map illustrating movement
of Bonchamps’ mission.
The L. Ambo, which combines with other
streams to form the Alengo, is crossed, and the road skirts along
N. of, and parallel to, the Alengo.
Several streams are crossed before
reaching the Garan, and the country is rough.
From Gedda the escarp trends off N.W.,
leaving a wide plain, bounded on the S. and W. by G. Kwunchu Sodu
and Tuka.
The Garsa is a sluggish, muddy stream,
running between steep clay banks. Good camping ground W. of
it.
L. Alengo
5
117
Road, after passing a few low spurs, runs
over a flat, clay valley. The Alengo, 30 feet wide by 6 inches
deep.
River Gibbe
6
123
Road continues over flat, open country,
passing close to the low, rocky hillock, T. Bertuma. The Gibbe, 45
feet wide, 2 feet deep, fairly rapid; clay bank, thickly lined with
willow, bottom gravel. It is a tributary of the Omo, and the
eastern limit of the Queen’s district of Chelia. Between the Gibbe
and the Wama the country is Dejaj Damasi’s.
Bilo
13
136
After crossing the Gibbe the road skirts
round the northern spurs of G. Kwunchu, crossing several small
streams and rather rough ground. Bilo is a considerable market and
Customs post, situated on the W. side of the L. Tarli, a good-sized
stream running N. to the Gibbe between clay banks.
From Bilo the main road to Leka branches
off S.W. between T. Sodu and J. Soksaw.
J. Sodu Pass
5
141
The Lekempti road keeps almost due W.,
passing just S. of the summit of Sodu. The ascent is not as bad as
it appears, as the road is well graded.
There is a wide open spur just before the
final rise to the pass begins, which would form a good camping
place. Several small streams are crossed in the ascent.
River Wama
12
153
From the pass, which is a very narrow
saddle, the descent is steep for 2½ miles; small camping ground,
with limited water supply at this point. Then road follows a long
spur, falling gradually towards the Wama. Wooded slopes and no
cultivation. The Wama is a considerable stream, flowing in rather
marshy ground between clay banks, but with gravelly bottom, 30 feet
wide, 2 feet deep; rapid. Shown on Michel’s and other maps as a
tributary of the Didessa. Cattle and sheep plentiful and good
grazing; the river is eastern limit of Dejaj Kumsa’s country.
Nekempti
24
177
After crossing the Wama, the road runs up
a long narrow spur coming from W. shoulder of G. Tuka. G. Tuka is
thickly wooded and precipitous, though round-topped. At 5 miles, a
road to Leka branches W. up a broad valley formed by another branch
of the Wama. The Leka plateau at the E. end appears steep-sided and
thickly wooded. Leka is the head-quarters of Dejaj Damasi, and is
said to be extremely fertile, producing much coffee. From the Leka
road the track ascends more steeply; country well cultivated and
thickly inhabited. Long, narrow, steep-sided spurs run S. from the
water parting formed by the western end of G. Tuka. Water is
plentiful. At 15 miles is a small village and church. Between this
and Nekempti many small streams are crossed and ground is much
broken. Nekempti is the residence of Dejaj Kumsa (called by
Abyssinians Gabra Xiavrihir). He is a young Galla, a Christian, and
has built himself a church. His ideas are advanced, and he has a
garden for European plants, and is trying to improve the native
coffee and cotton. His gibe is new and well built. There are
several Arab merchants established here. The chief market is on
Thursday, but there is a daily market.
Nekempti is on the watershed between the
Wama and Angur, and to the N. the ground drops steeply to the wide
flat Angur valley.
Sasiga
13
190
From Nekempti the road runs W., keeping
near the watershed, which connects with the N. end of the Leka
plateau. After about 5 miles it turns N.W., and several streams
flowing N. are crossed. At the Sasiga market place on (Friday) G.
Jimata there is a splendid view looking down into the Didessa
valley, and across the Angur valley, towards the Limu hills; the
Didessa and Angur valleys proper were, till recently, great
elephant grounds up to the Abai. The elephants are now practically
exterminated, and the ground is being brought under cultivation,
though, as it is unhealthy, the people continue to live on the high
ground.
Didessa R.
24
214
From Sasiga there is a very steep descent
of 1,200 feet. Then the road is generally level, and crosses
several streams before the L. Arso, where there is a fine camping
ground at the 13th mile; thence there is a slight rise to the
Tankara ridge, which is the eastern boundary of the Didessa
ravine.
From this ridge the descent is very
steep, winding, and rough to the Didessa, slopes thickly wooded.
The Didessa is 150 yards (?) wide, 2 feet deep; current 2½ miles,
stony bottom, beautiful water. Good camping place for a small party
in dry season on W. bank.
Merechi
8
222
From the river the ascent of the W. side
of the ravine begins at once. The road is very rough and bad, and
ground on each side is covered with bamboo. The ascent is in three
distinct stages, the last being much the worst, no attempt being
made to grade it. Between the first and second stage the L. Jirma
is crossed, and a small tributary of it is passed before the final
stage.
Merechi, a small village, Saturday
market, and Customs observation post. It is situated on the top of
a ridge about 2½ miles behind the edge of the ravine. Between runs
the Laga Jirma, and the valley is a good camping ground. This is
the beginning of Walega.
Gimbi
12
234
The N. end of the Merechi ridge runs up
to the escarp, which now begins to trend N.W. The plateau is very
undulating and broken by confused narrow valleys. There is a
considerable population, and the country is very fertile. At the
10th mile the Garsa ridge, running N. and S., is fairly well
defined; otherwise the features are very confused. The Gallel
stream, at 9th mile, is a good size, but water is everywhere
plentiful. T. Jerko, a very sharp cone 30 miles to the S., is very
conspicuous, and the road to Dejaj Goti’s country runs N. of it,
through the Siva district. Gimbi is the residence of Fitaurari
Amenti, uncle of Dejaj Kumsa.
Dungoro, L. Fincha
13
247
From Gimbi the general direction of the
road alters and strikes N.N.W. towards Beni Shangul. The country
continues well watered, cultivated, and populated, with the same
confusion of narrow valleys. It passes through the small districts
or townships of Siban (where Fitaurari Debaba, another uncle of
Dejaj Kumsa, has a house), Aroji, and Dungoro. This latter is
bounded on the S. by the L. Fincha, a considerable rocky stream,
which is the last tributary of the Didessa crossed.
T. Eriwani
11
258
Five miles beyond L. Fincha, skirting the
western slopes of T. Ghinghi, the track is rough and hilly. Several
small streams rise in this hill and, after uniting, flow away S.
between T. Jerko and T. Wallel, becoming, lower down, the Birbiri,
which joins the Baro near Gore. T. Wallel is now very clearly seen
to the S.W. T. Eriwani forms the watershed between the head waters
of the Birbiri and the tributaries of the Yabus. Water is rather
scarce between T. Ghinghi and Eriwani. Fitaurari Debaba’s second
house is in a very conspicuous position on the watershed, W. of the
road.
Najo
10
268
To Najo the road is easy, and country
open. The Lagas, Henna, and Dilla are crossed, the latter a
considerable stream, in which a certain amount of gold washing is
done. The sides of its valley are very steep.
About 2 miles S. of Najo and 1½ miles E.
of the road is M. Camboul’s house in the midst of his trial shafts.
This is the most promising part of M. Ilg’s concession.
Najo is only a small village, but Dejaj
Kumsa is building a new house there to be his hunting
head-quarters.
Guti Mudema
7
275
Passing Najo the country begins to fall
perceptibly, and is much more open. The undulations are broader,
lower, and flatter. There is less cultivation, but many more
cattle. The inhabitants are few, and are mainly engaged, it is
said, in the gold-washing on the Yabus.
Guti Mudema is simply a post on the
watershed between the Lagas Alatu and Genasi and the L. Deivo,
which commands a very extensive view into Beni Shangul and the Lega
Galla country. The two former streams flow between clay banks. All
this country was traversed after a considerable amount of rain had
fallen, so all the streams were flowing strongly. As a rule, they
would be quite shallow.
L. Deivo
2½
277½
Flows in a deep valley, with very steep
sides.
Gori
7
284½
A small village, the residence of
Fitaurari Densa. Road is over an open plateau with a
strongly-marked escarp falling to the W.; to the E. a range of low
mountains, running N., marks the great escarp from the western side
of the Didessa and southern side of the Abai valley.
L. Komiso
3½
288
The ground falls very rapidly into the
Komiso valley, which is bound by a very steep, high escarp on the
S. Between the Komiso and Mendi there is a wide broken valley, with
the L. Sache flowing past T. Wandi, a well-marked hill 2 miles W.
of the road. This hill is the northern limit of Dejaj Goti’s
country, which appears to extend up in a narrow strip along the E.
side of the Yabus.
Mendi
19
307
Mendi lies just S. of the last rise
before the road makes its final descent into the Yabus. Here the
promontory between the Didessa, Abai, and Yabus breaks into two
ranges of hills, one running due N. by Gumbi and one N.W. towards
the Beni Shangul hills through G. Gunfi. The road descends by the
W. side of the valley in the fork, and is very steep and rough, the
side of the valley being, as well, cumbered with with dense
bamboo.
Mendi is the last Galla village, and from
there to the Yabus water cannot be counted on.
L. Badeisa
12
319
Halfway down the descent there is
generally water in small quantities, but the camping ground is
uneven, confined, and with no good feeding when bamboo is out of
leaf.
W. of the road near Mendi the ground
falls gradually, with slight undulation, to the Yabus. There is
thick wooding, and till quite lately the valley was quite full of
elephants, but these are rapidly being exterminated.
Buffalo, waterbuck, hartebeest, and
probably greater kudu are abundant.
K. Dabeisa
7
326
This practically marks the end of the
descent, and the road from here to the Yabus is easy. Black
population (very thin) begins. Bertas.
K. Yabus or L. Dabus
9
335
Yabus is the Arabic, and Dabus the Galla
variant of the name; was slightly in flood when crossed, and was
then about 100 feet wide and 3 feet deep at the ford. There is
another crossing further S., near where the river breaks through
the connection between the Gunfi and Beni Shangul mountains.
N. of the crossing is a wide, flat valley
with some scattered hills.
K. Sheira
5
340
Crossing the river the ground soon begins
to rise. There is a little water in K. Sheira.
J. Aside
7
347
A pass over J. Aside
leads into the sub-district of Afodu, which is under a woman called
Zem Zem. The village of Afodu is the head-quarters of a Kanyazmach,
the Abyssinian commandant in Beni Shangul. Water is drawn from the
Tumat, in which there are always pools.
Afodu
2
349
K. Tumat
2
351
K. Mange
7
358
Through Beni Shangul there are no
difficulties on the road, though the going is bad, owing to the
amount of small quartz stones everywhere. The K. Mange is dry. N.
of it and W. of the road is J. Fadamo, which is very steep, rocky,
and thickly wooded. Here Abd el Rahman’s people made their last
stand against the Abyssinians, and it took 12 days’ fighting to
clear the hill, both sides losing heavily. The final surrender was
only induced by hunger.
Bomo
7
365
At Bomo there is a small village, but
like all those seen in Beni Shangul, it is half deserted. It is
very difficult to form an idea of how thickly the country is
inhabited, as the bush completely shuts in all the villages. A good
many were seen from the top of J. Fadamo, but it was a very misty
day and it was hard to make them out distinctly.
Belfodio Khamis
5
370
This is the head-quarters of Fitaurari
Mohammed Wad Hojali, brother of Abd el Rahman (Tur el Guri), and is
generally called Khamis by the Abyssinians.
Famaka (Blue Nile)
60
430
Remainder of route in Sudan.
By Major C. W. Gwynn, C.M.G.,
D.S.O., June, 1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Roseires (Abramat)
—
—
The road to Abu Ramla is a very narrow
track much shut in by thick bush and grass. After rain the heavy
clay soil produces a particularly heavy and sticky mud.
For 5 miles from the river the bush is
very thick and soil very heavy. From the 5th to 10th mile the soil
becomes more sandy and the bush is thinner. At 12th mile 3 large
adansonias are passed; soil heavy clay but bush still open.
El Geri (Sheikh’s Village)
23
23
At the 16th mile the road reaches the El
Geri hills and turns sharply north-east skirting their foot. These
hills are not more than 200 feet high and are covered with low
trees. They form a continuous mass though much broken and rocky.
Along the northern slopes there is a quantity of bamboo, and road is stony.
Skirting round north and north-east foot of the hills, road comes
to a small Hameg village. Water (the first since Roseires) is
obtained up a steep valley 1 mile south of the village. Road skirts
the hills to this point, and then strikes off east again to J.
Migin. Ground is nearly flat and clay very heavy, bush thick except
at the 31st mile where there is a slight rise and open ground.
Number of giraffe along the road.
J. Migin
14
37
J. Migin is a small rocky hill. At its
northern end is a water hole in the rocks, which seldom is emptied,
but which does not appear to be fed by a spring, so should not be
depended on. There are said to be other water holes on the
hills.
J. Abu Ramla
17
54
No water from this to Abu Ramla except
after rain. Khor Madar, which flows to Khor Zagoli, crossed first
branch at 44th mile, and second ½ mile further on. Road passes 1
mile south of J. Withwith and strikes the Abu Ramla mountain
half-way along its west side, crossing the large dry Khor Aluk a
mile before. Road then turns north and skirts round the northern
foot of the mountain.
Mek’s Village
4
58
Mek Adam Wad Dafeir’s Village is at the
foot of the north-east corner of the mountain. Several other small
villages are passed before reaching. Water is obtained from wells
in Khor Ramla, a mile east of the mountain, quality not good, but
100 animals were easily kept in water.
Mek is of Fung origin, but the
inhabitants chiefly Gumz.
From Abu Ramla, the trade road to Dunkur
passes through Abu Mendi my party left the main track however at
the first point where Dinder is met, and after that no well defined
track was found till a couple miles before the Khor Adabiba.
Khor Ramla
1
59
Leaving Abu Ramla, road strikes almost
due east. The soil is much more sandy, and even in wet weather
fairly good going. Bush generally very thick, principally low
trees.
Khor Babeheir
9
68
Large pool in Khor
Babeheir; a khor about 10 yards wide, rising in the Bongo Hills and
flowing to the Dinder. Road skirts north of J. Abu Nesag, a low
rocky hill. Road stony, and several small dry khors to cross.
J. Abu Nesag
1½
69½
Khor Abujar (Abu Holgar)
5
74½
Khor Abujar, sandy bottom, was in flood
when crossed, but would probably always contain water in pools or
in wells, 50 yards wide, banks easy.
Khor Ainki
4
78½
Khor Ainki was in flood, only just
fordable, gravelly bed, 50 yards wide; water always obtainable.
Good camping ground, east bank. Just east of the khor there is a
slight gravelly rise, but bush still very thick; no view
obtainable. Road turns north-east to the Dinder.
Khor Barageili
5½
84
Khor Barageili. Fair camping ground;
water in pools.
Dinder R.
1½
85½
Dinder is reached at the foot of small
rocky hill, J. Mogumbi. Main road to Dunkur appears to skirt along
the bank, but the ground is very broken and path is almost
invisible. With a view to taking the most direct road, the
expedition crossed the river—about 100 yards wide, stony, and
rocky. Rapid flow of water, 2 feet deep. Guides missed the track,
which was said to exist, but of which there was little or no sign,
and when the Dinder was met again it was above the ford the guides
had been making for. River was followed to the mouth of the Khor
Abu Gemmeiz, where it was just fordable. Bush traversed was very
thick; quantities of water buck, roan antelope, and other
game.
Dinder and Khor
14
99½
River forded just above the junction—100
yards wide. River in partial flood, 3 feet deep. Skirted along left
bank of Dinder along a disused track.
Khor Damu
5½
105
Khor Damu, 20 yards
wide, rocky with steep banks. Left river and reached 1st Terrace
which marked the beginning of the foot hills. Path came in from
south apparently from Abu Mendi.
1st Terrace
2
107
Khor Adabiba
1½
108½
Khor Adabiba, small khor with large
pools; water always found.
Dunkur (Sheikh Nasser’s)
9½
118
The road touches the Dinder at 55th mile,
and then turns towards the chief village of the Dunkur district,
which lies in undulating ground about 2½ miles south of the Dinder.
There is a considerable amount of cotton grown, and tribute to
Kwara is paid in cotton. The natives are of a mixed Hamag and Gumz
stock. Many of them can speak Amharic as well as Arabic. A few
Abyssinians are generally to be found here.
By Major C. W. Gwynn, June,
1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Dunkur
—
—
Dinder
2½
2½
About 100 yards wide, 3 feet deep; stream
3 miles an hour (but this was after rain). Banks easy, bed stony; a
good deal of limestone in the river bed.
Khor Ajban
3½
6
Country on north bank fairly open. Pool
of good water in Khor Ajban.
Sheikh Hassan’s
1½
7½
Sheikh Hassan’s Village small, and many
of inhabitants have moved to Gallabat. At the first village, ½ mile
beyond Khor Ajban, road branches east to Kwara.
Dardakara
6½
14
Road stony, and crosses a number of
khors—some dry, but most with good pools—before reaching the
practically deserted village of Dardakara.
Adzko
1
15
Adzko also deserted.
Khor Adzko
1½
16½
Large pool of good water in khor: road,
very rough, skirting north side of J. Wadrabah.
Site of old Dunkur village in hills to
east of road.
Khor Gelagu
4
20½
Village of Gelagu, on south side of khor,
only contains 3 or 4 families. Khor is 20 yards wide; unlimited
water supply, though little stream is apparent.
From Gelagu there is a road round the
Umzenidi hill, but the more direct road is over the pass N.E. of
the village—this is stony but fairly easy.
El Gulut (Khor Afar)
6½
27
El Gulut is a
considerable Kunjara village on the Khor Afar (a good sized khor
with water in pools). From Gulut there is a road to Kwara. A good
deal of cotton is grown in neighbourhood. There is a direct route
from El Gulut to the Khor Dibaba, near J. Bayisa, but a more
easterly route through Magumbal (a deserted village) avoids the
cotton soil.
Magumbal
5
32
Khor Dibaba
6½
38½
Khor Dibaba, 30 yards wide with large
pools, is crossed about 1 mile west of J. Bayisa. A very large wild
fig tree at the crossing.
Seraf Ardeiba
9½
48
Up to this point water is plentiful, but
none is met with crossing the watershed between Rahad and Dinder.
Road is well marked and good. Very little water in the Seraf
Ardeiba. Road skirting this khor is rough.
Rahad R.
5
53
Rahad about 50 yards wide, very slight
flow of water between large pools. Bed stony. Many crocodiles in
pools. Good camping grounds either bank.
Khor Andeiogo
4
57
On north bank of
Rahad there is cotton soil, trees not so thick but more grass. Khor
Andeiogo would generally be dry but there is a small pool east of
the road. J. Dagarish, a low wooded hill, lies on the road at 59th
mile. Khor Teir is a large dry khor.
Khor Tair
6½
63½
No water obtainable.
Shortly after crossing Khor Teir, ascent
of the escarp, extending from J. Madbura to J. Belula, and forming
the watershed between Rahad and Atbara, begins.
The ascent of the lower spurs of J.
Belula is pretty steep.
New Shangal
9½
73
New Shangal is on the watershed and has
only recently been built.
Shangal
1½
74½
Shangal Khor is the first place after
passing the Rahad that water can be relied on.
Gallabat
4½
79
On the top of the escarp, cultivation
begins and extends at intervals to Gedaref.
By Lieutenant Jackson, R.E.,
January, 1900.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Fazogli
—
—
Follow Kukuru road for ½ mile, then keep
to right and follow road leading about N.N.W. in the direction of
Famaka. Gradual ascent to crest of ridge forming watershed parallel
to Fazogli ridge, along which road runs. Numerous small khors run
down on either side to join the river on the N., or the K. Akluli
on the S.
Some tukls forming part of the village of
Fazogli.
Khor Mogo
¼
1¼
Road descends
abruptly and crosses the Khor Mogo, and shortly afterwards the Khor
Kulili. Both these khors about 15 feet wide with steep rocky
banks.
Khor Kulili
¼
1½
Road now rises and crosses the outlying
spurs of J. Fazogli. Extremely rough going and ground covered with
large boulders and rocks. River only about 200 yards off in places,
with Famaka plainly visible on opposite bank. Left bank of river
here consists of perpendicular rock from 10 to 30 feet high.
(Forked Roads)
1½
3
Road continues extremely hilly and
difficult until third mile, where road divides, that on the right
leading to Deshalu and Abu Shaneina.
The road now takes a S.W. direction and
descends gradually into a flat bush. Road good, and level except
where it crosses khors.
Khor Annis Sanganni
¾
3¾
Fifteen yards broad, high banks. On the
further side cultivation begins and continues with a few intervals
of bush the whole way to Masarkum. Dura is the chief product and is
of all three kinds. The crop appears to be a very fine one.
Ainyet (not visited)
1¼
5
Road on right leading to Ainyet (not
visited). Said to be a large village.
Khor (?)
1
6
Small khor, 5 yards wide, low banks.
Ragreig Village
3¾
9¾
For the next mile the cultivation appears
to be particularly good and the bush begins and continues almost
without interruption until within ½ mile of Ragreig—small
village—scattered tukls.
Khor (?)
¼
10
Much cultivation. Small khor with sandy
bottom. Road follows bed for 250 yards.
Ragreig Village
1½
11½
Straggling village on low ridge running
N. and S., at present uninhabited, Tukls in a bad state of repair,
and the whole place overgrown with grass.
Abu Gara
¾
12¼
Compact and well kept. The residence of
the brother of the Mek of Fazogli.
Khor Tumat
½
12¾
Quarter mile further
on through the dura fields the Khor Tumat is reached. About 200 or
300 yards broad here. Very shallow level bed, sandy. Road goes
straight on, crossing it diagonally to where it is joined by the
Khor Masarkum. Some pools of very dirty stagnant water here. Better
water to be obtained about ¼ mile up the Khor Masarkum from the
holes dug in the bed of the khor by the inhabitants of this place.
The water also is very bad however and full of mud.
Khor Masarkum
¼
13
Masarkum (Sheikh Bikori)
¼
13¼
A fair sized village, surrounded by dura
fields. Rest house. Sheep, eggs, and milk (cows) readily obtained.
There is (1900) only one cow however in the town, the remainder
having been looted by Dervishes.
Leaving Masarkum the road runs south-west
along a ridge or plateau on the left bank of the Khor Masarkum. The
ground on this side of the khor is much smoother, and there is
little thorn as far as J. Burgan. On the opposite side the bush
appears to be thick. There is a quantity of cultivation; dura grown
to a great height and producing fine ears. All soil appears good.
Several villages are visible on the north side of the road. All go
by the name of Ragreig which is probably the word for the class of
slaves or serfs that inhabit them. Road very good.
J. Burgan
4¾
18
A low hill south of road marks the limit
of cultivation, and from this the bush is thicker, though there is
little thorn, chiefly low large leaved trees, like young oaks, and
thin grass.
Khor Masarkum (1st crossing)
1¼
19¼
Khor Masarkum is
crossed four times. It is here known as Khor Timsah. At the first
crossing water still in natural pools, and at third crossing
obtainable by digging. It is about 20 feet wide, with sandy bottom,
and vertical banks 12 feet high. Probably unfordable in flood.
3rd crossing
2¼
21½
After fourth crossing a dry and waterless
country is entered. Hardly any khors, and these extremely small.
One patch of cultivation surrounded by a zeriba about ½ mile beyond
last crossing. Otherwise thin bush and grass. Road good on the
whole, but there is a good deal of loose stone.
J. Farfira (Pass)
4
25½
Road runs along foot of this jebel for
some distance, and then crosses it by a pass about 200 feet high.
Ascent and descent rough and stony, but not very difficult for
donkeys. Rest house here.
Road now keeps close to the foot of J.
Farfira, and keeping its original direction, leaves J. Gamella on
the right.
South of J. Gamella there are more traces
of water, and the khors become more frequent and larger. Country
undulating.
Khor El Hassan
8¾
34¼
Khor with hard shingle bed about 30 yards
broad. High steep banks. Rest house here. Water good and plentiful,
but only by digging. Tributary of the Khor Tumat flowing
northwards.
After crossing khor, country again flat
and waterless, and covered with thin bush and grass.
J. Gami
3½
37¾
Road skirts northern spur and then runs
in a south easterly direction towards centre of J. Ragreig. Ground
now becomes uneven and much intersected by small khors flowing from
the neighbouring hills to join Khor Shikatar. This khor rises in J.
Ragreig and is at this point about 10 yards broad. Rocks and gravel
in bed. Low banks.
The hills comprising J. Ragreig form a
horseshoe, up the central valley between the horns of which the
road runs. After crossing the Khor Shikatar for the first time, the
road gradually ascends a spur running down from the main or western
ridge of J. Ragreig. About ¼ mile further on it gradually returns
to the valley, and crossing the Khor Shikatar it rises to the pass
between the main peak of Ragreig and the conical peak immediately
east of it.
Road follows course of Khor Shikatar
roughly. Ascent nowhere very steep, but rough and stony. Thick bush
and trees in the valley.
J. Ragreig
4½
42¼
The pass over which the road runs is
roughly 250 feet high. Nothing can be seen to the north without
ascending one of the two peaks on either side, owing to trees; to
the south a good view of the country can be seen, especially J.
Keili, distant about 7 miles. This pass forms the boundary between
Fazogli and Keili. Guides state that ridge west of road belonged to
Fazogli, and that east of road to Keili. Jebel was originally
inhabited, but is now deserted. Inhabitants have gone, some to
Fazogli, some to Keili, forming the various Ragreig villages which
are scattered about. Descent from pass on south side much steeper
than ascent on north. Road zigzags at first, and then runs straight
down, passing between two small jebels. Very rough and stony. Jebel
on right inhabited by Ragreig people, no name obtainable.
Country now very level again with slope
downwards towards J. Keili. Thin bush and grass. Road good.
Khor Magansor
2½
44¾
Thirty yards wide. Rocky bed. High banks.
No water at present.
Khor Ofat
½
45¼
Twenty yards wide. Bed here full of
rocks. Water plentiful. Pools still remaining, but water stagnant,
and it is necessary to dig to obtain good water (Jan. 1900).
½
45¾
Cultivation now begins opposite northern
extremity of J. Keili, but only in patches, which are enclosed in
thorn zaribas. Chiefly dura.
Road runs through centre of level ground
lying between J. Keili on the right and Jebels Anguba and Fashola
on the left.
1½
47¼
Cultivation becomes
continuous, extending to foot of jebels on either side of road.
Large trees scattered about, especially near jebels. Mek’s house
lies at the foot of J. Keili, opposite J. Fashola.
Keili (camp under J.
Fashola)
1
48¼
There is no regular village, as the tukls
are scattered round at the foot of the hills. All the centre part
of the valley is more or less under water during the rains.
Rest house here. Supplies of all kinds
except vegetables and fruit are plentiful. I counted one herd of 20
fine cows on first entering valley. Natives will take Egyptian money, but seem
to prefer empty bottles or necklaces, soap would probably go well.
Donkeys are scarce, and it is difficult to hire or buy.
Road on leaving valley skirts J. Fashola
closely, and then heads nearly due south for J. Kamye.
Towards south and west there is a stretch
of apparently unbroken flat bush to the horizon. Cultivation ceases
almost directly.
Khor Gulbis
1½
49¾
Ten yards wide, said to flow into Blue
Nile near Abu Shaneina.
At 2 miles from Keili there is a knoll on
some high ground, with a large and prominent tree, which forms a
good landmark when approaching from the north.
J. Kamye
—
—
A low lying range of round-topped hills.
No rock showing, grass right up to summit. Road passes through
outlying spurs and knolls of this jebel on the western side. Come
cultivation on northern slopes, and a great deal (chiefly dura) on
the south-west.
Khor Dunga
4
53¾
Leaving J. Kange on right, road passes
through some low ground covered with bamboo, probably swampy in
rainy season, crossing Khor Dunga, 10 yards wide.
Road now crosses a succession of small
khors, all running west to join the Khor Timsah. Low ridges between
khors.
Khor Umburri
3¾
57
Ten yards wide, steep banks, sandy bed,
bush becomes thicker beyond this khor.
Khor Ahemir
1¾
58¾
Five yards wide, low banks where road
crosses; joins Khor Timsah about ¾ mile further west.
Khor Timsah
¼
59
Twenty yards wide, very rocky bed, steep
banks; flows about due west where crossed by road, but turns north
about ¼ mile further down stream. Probably joins Khor Gulbis.
One large and deep pool of water at
present, where road crosses, supply considerable, and fish can be
caught in it; very muddy water, but appears to be good.
Road becomes more level now, and fewer
small khors to cross.
J (?)
2¼
61¼
Low hills, thickly covered with grass and
bush.
Road runs up a central spur. Ascent
gradual and road fairly good. Descent on north side also along
spur, but steeper; road not so good, and covered with loose
stones.
Khor Gummi
2¾
64
Twelve yards wide; stones in bed.
Khor Mingil
½
64½
A small shall khor. Hills (J. Mingil) now
begin on either side. Road good, no steep gradients. Bush all over
the hills, very thick in the valleys, but thinner, and long grass
on top.
J. Kurmuk
3¾
68¼
Gradual descent to foot of J. Kurmuk.
Tukls scattered round jebel, but probably not very many
inhabitants.
Latter all fled at our approach, and very
little information could be obtained. No water near road, but a
little is said to be procurable further round jebel. Apparently
nothing for sale.
Road to Dul now turns off in a more
easterly direction, and takes a straight course towards the jebel,
which is plainly visible. Country quite flat and shallow until Khor
El Dahab is reached. Bush thick. Probably wet and boggy during
rains.
Khor Wirta
½
68¾
Five yards wide, sandy bed. Just after
this khor a road branches off to right, which, according to the
guides, is used as an alternative road to Dul in wet weather, it
rejoins the main road further on.
Khor el Dahab
3½
72¼
Twenty yards wide, banks steep, about 20
feet high, sandy bed. Winds very much in and out amongst these
bends for some distance before actually crossing it. Good water
obtainable here at present, also at a place about 200 yards before
that, at which the road crosses khor. Gold found here about ¼ mile
before crossing khor; there are a number of circular shaft about 3
feet in diameter, and some about as much as 20 feet deep, from
which the earth is taken. This is the first important khor in the
basin of the White Nile.
Khor Goshindo
2¾
75
Small khor with steep banks.
Road now becomes hilly, and follows edge
of high ground, the ground on the left falling away rapidly to khor
in valley below.
Dul
2¼
77¼
No actual town, but a number of tukls
scattered about outlying spurs of Dul, also on north side of
valley, and khor, which runs down in a north-westerly direction
from the hills.
The natives depend entirely upon the gold
which they find, and import all supplies from Gomasha. Nothing
seems to be grown in this country. They are an idle and very
unintelligent people, and are unwilling to be of any assistance.
They seem to be genuinely afraid of the Abyssinians. Water
plentiful and fairly good obtained in khor.
Road now takes a southerly direction and
skirts the eastern slopes of J. Dul, winding in and out amongst its
spurs. Road rough in places and stony, but on the whole good. Tukls
on all the high ground.
Khor Biberis
1½
78¾
Small khor with rocky bed.
Khor Adunga
½
79¼
Small shallow khor. Gold pits along
banks.
Arakuba
¼
79½
A collection of a few tukls on the main
jebel.
Khor Udanduk
1¼
80¾
Actual channel 5 yards wide, it has low
banks, and evidently overflows its banks. Road crosses it just
beyond the south-western spur of J. Dul, and heads direct for J.
Mindon.
Khor Gensogala
¼
81
Five yards wide, sandy bed.
(Forked roads)
¼
81¼
Road divides; that on right going to
Kirin viâ Kumfo, and Jebels Beldoesu and Fana Gamenta;
that on the left viâ Goha, Asosa, and Fadasi.
The former is a direct road, and could
easily be made fairly good by clearing bamboo and levelling. It is
very little used, however, and there are no villages along it.
Water is somewhat scarce. The latter, as far as we went, is a very
bad hilly road; but a great trade route and very much used.
Probably good when once the watershed is crossed.
—
81¼
Take right hand road at fork (left to
Gomasha). Road crosses a number of small khors. Ground between
low-lying, and would probably be mostly under water during rains. A
great deal of bamboo. Road difficult to find.
Khor Ageheni
¾
82
Broad shallow khor
with low banks and sandy bed. Road followed by us did not cross
khor at this point, but took us some distance more to the west
before doing so. We were without guides, however, and the road is
difficult to follow. Probably we made an unnecessary detour. Plenty
of water just below the surface. Natives were washing gold just
below where we crossed; their tukls are scattered all about
here.
1¼
83¼
J. Kumfo
1¾
85
Small jebels with tukls on them; a little
cultivation; road passes west of them.
Khor (?)
1
86
Road passes between jebels, crossing
small khor, very rough and rocky, and sides of khor steep. Road
runs now along eastern slopes of hills. Very rough and covered with
bamboo, which brings rate of progress of caravan down to about 2
miles per hour. From here to the camp by the small khor S. of Khor
Delligi.
Khor Belligi
1¼
87¼
Twenty five yards broad, very shallow,
sandy bed. No water.
Khor (?)
1
88¼
Small khor with very rocky bed and
difficult crossing for Hamla. Two large pools of very good water
(Jan. 1900).
Road continues in a south-easterly
direction. Bush on both sides, but a small patch of cultivation on
the right at one place.
(Forked roads)
1
89¼
Road divides; take right hand branch,
leading straight towards J. Beldoesu.
1
90¼
Two small shallow khors, 15 yards wide,
sandy.
Khor (?)
1¼
91½
Khor 20 yards wide, a little water on
digging.
J. Beldoesu
—
—
Road now keeps along western slopes of J.
Beldoesu. Numerous small deep khors to cross, and ground
exceedingly rough and difficult for Hamla. On leaving J. Beldoesu
road improves and runs up and across valley between J. Fanaoge and
J. Fanagamenta.
K. Zalan
5¼
96¾
A large quantity of excellent water in
pools in the rock. Best place for Hamla to cross is by a sandbank,
just above the rock.
Beyond Khor Zalan the road is fairly
good, but progress of Hamla is very much hampered by the
bamboo.
(Pass)
6¼
103
Road gradually ascends, and finally runs
over a low and easy pass between J. Fanaoge and J. Fanagamenta.
Pass about 200 feet high. Descent on south side along eastern
slopes of valley. Khors are numerous and very deep, but no water.
Road extremely rough and hilly.
Khor Ahrakad
5¼
108¼
Small khor with stony bed. A little water
on digging, but supply salty and very limited. This khor is not
actually crossed by the road at the point where best water is
found, but lies a short distance to the east.
J. Taza
—
—
A fair sized jebel with two peaks and
extremely steep sides. Road passes west of it.
Khor Lashe
¾
109
Small khor with steep banks.
¾
109¾
Road forks; keep to right.
Khor Turus(or Yander)
½
110¼
Broad khor with stony bed.
J. Belsuri
—
—
Road now passes between J. Belsuri on
left and J. Hode on right. Rather hilly and rough.
J. Hode
—
—
These hills are inhabited, and there is
some cultivation.
1¼
111½
Forked roads in open space; keep to
left.
In the valley, through which road now
runs, there is a great deal of cultivation. Flat bush as far as the
eye can reach towards south and south-west.
Khor Gaduk
3
114½
Small khor with steep banks, a little
muddy water still left above ground (Jan. 1900).
Agani
1½
116
A few tukls; a considerable quantity of
cultivation, chiefly dura.
(Forked roads)
1
117
Forked roads; keep to right.
(Forked roads)
1½
118½
Forked roads—keep to left.
Khor (?)
¼
118¾
Small khor 10 yards wide—south bank
steep.
Ashuli
¼
119
A few tukls
surrounded by cultivation. Road turns to left and then bears round
to right, and skirts the southern slopes of J. Gushu; rough in
places, but good on the whole.
J. Gushu
—
—
Khor Shugalu (Khor Befar)
¾
119¾
Large khor with high steep banks, sandy
bed. Good water plentiful; much cultivation along banks, including
onions, water-melons, &c.
After crossing khor, ground rather uneven
and grass and bush rather thick, until you get close to J. Kirin.
Open ground along its base.
Kirin (Sheikh Hamed’s
House)
1½
121¼
Tukls scattered all round the jebel, but
most of the big men seem to live close to this place.
Open ground at base of hill, and very
good place for camp at present, but might be wet during rainy
season. Water taken from wells in sand about ¼ mile away, rather
muddy, and of a thick white colour like milk. Supply scanty at
present, and our party finally took their water from Khor Shugalu.
Inhabitants most friendly. Sheep, pigs, chickens, eggs, and dura in
overwhelming quantities, were sent as presents. Onions and milk
(goats) can be obtained, but supply is limited.
People are ready to sell for gold
(native, in rings), beads, soap, old bottles, tins, &c. Beads
(blue or red) seem to be the chief thing required. Salt is also
good. We got rid of a few fasses, but iron does not seem to be in
request. Spear heads are no good. Cloth of the most brilliant
colours possible would probably also go well. Sheikh Hamed has
large stores of dura in tukls on the hill, and sold it to us at 3
gold rings (each worth about 45 piastres) the ardeb. There is a
small quantity of semsem (5 rings the ardeb) and lubia.
From Kirin the road runs straight on
nearly due south. Some bad rocky places, until the spurs of the
mountain are all left behind, the road then level and fairly good,
passing through bush of varying thickness, but with very little
thorn in it, and patches of bamboo along the banks of the
khors.
By Major C. W. Gwynn,
April, 1903.
A mixed Hamla—mules, donkeys and camels—was taken from Kirin to
Kodok, April, 1903.
No rain had fallen, but more water was found in the neighbouring
country than in previous years, so that conditions of water may be
assumed normal for middle of dry season, but more favourable than
usual for extreme end of dry season.
There was no recognised track, and no guides could be obtained
from Kirin, nor would it have been possible to obtain Dinka guides
to make the journey in the reverse direction.
The route followed is not necessarily the best, as probably
deflections were made by guides owing to inter-village fighting or
for other reasons.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Kirin
—
—
From Kirin there are several tracks
leading west to the farm village belonging to Ahmed Wad Yimr.
Khor Yabus at junction with Khor
Serekoli
13
13
Water is obtainable at several places,
vide Map.
The Khor Yabus known to the Gallas as
Ayaya, and to the Khomas as Kizi, is a strong flowing stream 40
feet wide and 1 foot deep, rocky bottom and wooded banks. Soil in
neighbourhood mostly sandy and firm. Stream full of fish, which
many Kirin people come to catch and dry. Fishing places do not
extend more than 20 miles west of Kirin.
As I had been told the Khor Yabus took a
sharp bend S. after clearing the hills I chose the left bank, so as
to avoid missing the turn. The ground near the khor was stony and
broken by side khors, so marched well clear of stream. Ground firm
and bush not thick enough to be an obstacle. If grass had not been
burnt going would have been difficult.
Khor Mia
13
26
Went to Yabus for water at its junction
with a large khor (probably Khor Mia), coming from the Khoma
mountains. The character of the Yabus had changed, and now ran over
a level sandy bed, water 6 inches deep, banks cotton soil, marshy
and high grass jungle. Country on either side almost entirely open,
but large trees by the khor. Country from this point to the
beginning of Burun villages swarms with game—buffalo and elephant.
Hunting parties from Kirin, with rifles, constantly about.
Khor
5
31
Kept clear of banks of khor again, which
were swampy and had thick jungle in places. Country away from river
open and slightly undulating.
J. Belshingi and Jebel
Belatoma
1
32
Cotton soil, but fair going. Khor passes
between Jebel Belshingi on N. bank and J. Belatoma on S. A rocky
outlying knoll of latter close to stream gives a fair camping
ground at its base. A wide marshy khor comes from the south just
before reaching this knoll.
Knoll
3
35
The Yabus winds round the south end of J.
Belshingi and spreads out into two marshy lakes, a small rocky
knoll forming the extreme south end of J. Belshingi (though on
opposite side of khor) lying between the lakes.
The north bank of Yabus is wooded, but
country to south is open. Bed of stream winds through wide marshy
belt. Skirting the marsh, game tracks gave good going.
Village (deserted) (?) Mago
4
39
First Burun village was deserted. Found
it had been raided by Kirin people two months before, and Sheikh
Digga had been killed. Village had evidently been occupied since.
From this village found a good track, and, after 3 miles, bush
became thick; many dom palms.
N’yunka
4
43
N’yunka, a collection of villages among
dom thickets. No men at first to be seen, but surprised some women
who shortly induced men to appear. Latter very frightened at first.
All armed with long bows, wooden pointed featherless arrows and
generally a spear, and quite naked.
Yabus crossing
9
52
A good track ran through wooded country
S. of the Yabus, passing the villages of Toma, N’dinga, Bane Bugga,
Ote, Onka and the villages of Sheikh Washa. At these latter crossed
the Yabus, which from this point turns S.W. The Buruns could not
give me any clear account of where it went to, but thought it
discharged into Sobat. I believe it opens out into a swampy lake
which also receives the Sonka, and part of the water from this may
make its way to the Sobat near Nasser and part into the Khor Adar.
When last seen there was a good flow of water. The country to S.W.
appeared to be thickly wooded, and I could not ascertain to what
extent it was inhabited.
Track continued to be good, and passed
through villages of Kanje and Loma, almost deserted owing to
distance from Walu to Bangaia.
Bangaia
7
59
Hafirs. The village is small and the
hafirs are in a marshy overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E. of village.
These Burun hafirs are generally dug in marshy spots, and sometimes
are merely reservoirs, sometimes really gammams. They are carefully
covered in with sticks, and grass and water is generally clean and
good. At Bangaia very good and plentiful.
Tuer
3
62
Small village with hafir—several deserted
villages between it and Bangaia.
Beio
5½
67½
Track good, country fairly open. Small
village.
Hillock
1
68½
Very small hillock with few huts.
Kyela
2½
71
Kyela is a group of several villages with
wide track of cultivation. Inhabitants gone away for water.
After 4 miles track ceases, and guides took
us N.W., avoiding a piece of badly broken cotton soil.
K. Yungen
9
80
Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A gammam with
some very bad water in Khor Yungen.
Nyeda
3
83
Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400 people
on Khor Murga (probably the same as Khor Yungen). Poor water in
gammams in khor. These are 6 feet deep and fill slowly; barely gave
water enough for 50 animals and 50 men.
From here a good number of people know a
little Arabic or Dinka. The Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has been
fighting with the surrounding villages.
The whole district is called Dar El Imam
and was under a Sheikh called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man was
murdered some four years ago, and Dar El Sagia claims to be his
successor, but is not recognised by most of the villages. This is
about the limit of the raiding of the Beni Shangul people.
Khor Murga is said to be a branch of the
big khor which formed from the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and Jebel
Fanagamenta, passes close to J. Jumjum under the name of Khor
Tumbakh.
J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa and is
the southern limit of Idris Wad Regab’s influence at present. Khor
Tumbakh appears to split up into branches, and one probably reaches
Khor Adar near Rengachuk.
Hafirs
4
87
Two good hafirs. Track bad over broken
cotton soil.
Nyeda (Sh. Tukani) camp
8
95
After passing hafirs track becomes very
good and goes through a number of villages whose inhabitants had
gone to water. About two miles short of camp entered on a wide
stretch of cultivation, cotton soil. Scattered villages. No defined
khor, but probably the whole under water in the rains from overflow
of Khor Tumbakh. There were many gammams, but water very bad and
muddy.
Dinko Wad Dageig
7
102
Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko Wad
Dageig was last Burun village. It is situated in a grove of dom
palms, dry sandy soil. Water from gammam 10 feet deep, plentiful
and good. This village is in about 10° 10′ and 30° 10′ E.
Tibn
13
115
There is no defined track west of this,
but hunting parties frequently go to El Tame. Passed over open
country; cotton soil, rather rough going. Passed the Debba of Tibn
lying ¼ mile to right just before entering a track of park land;
heglig trees.
Tibn was the most outlying of the Dinka
villages, but had been deserted since the beginning of the Mahdia.
Water used to be stored in hafirs, but now none.
A second debba was seen about four miles
further W.
El Tame
10
125
Heglig trees last for eight miles, and
cotton soil is bad. El Tame is a marshy lake, or rather two large
pools in a khor, which, however, does not appear to connect to
anything.
Water is plentiful, but muddy and fouled
by game. There are no trees or anything to mark the position of the
water except flocks of birds. Game very abundant, and both Buruns
and Dinkas come to hunt. The latter are very much afraid of the
Buruns.
Khor Adar
15
140
Kept S.W. for 15
miles. Cotton soil and fairly good going; country generally open
with a few clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar at some feriks
belonging to Sheikh Wal Awal at about the point where Captain
Wilson’s reconnaissance ended. This point is about 40 miles due
east of Kodok. The Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok always follow
the Khor Adar to Rengachuk and thence across to the Nile at Mialek,
which makes a journey at least 20 miles longer and involves several
crossings of the Khor Adar.
Kodok
60 (?)
200 (?)
By Major G. de H. Smith,
February, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Camp (Khor Bosuk)
—
—
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)
12
12
The road runs along the foot of the N.
slopes of J. Beldoesu; a new road now made along other side of
valley and along course of stream which is much better going.
From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot
of water (running in khor), the road goes up a slope up the
Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old village). The
ascent up the valley is easy at first, but afterwards up steep
slopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up—at one place a
running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,
difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the
road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on
the tops of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine
7
19
From top of pass the road goes along the
plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where
there is a flowing stream, good shade and grazing, and camping
ground.
Camp at Goha
3
22
From Khor Eine good road round spur leads
into Goha, about 2 miles before reaching which road branches off to
Asosa, going in a southerly direction. The tukls are on the foot of
slope of J. Goha and also all over the top of the hill. J. Goha is
a series of broken, rocky hills, and is in reality a spur
projecting from the higher plateau.
There is a fair amount of cultivation in
patches in the open valley. There is a running stream at foot of
Goha Hill on N. side, which is fed by many tributaries, most of
which contain running water. There is a good camping ground across
this stream on low hills facing the lower N. slopes of J. Goha,
water and grazing plentiful. Supplies of dura apparently got from
Asosa. There were only about 20 cattle to be seen, and no sign of
any trade going on or Gallabas about. This may be due to the
disturbed state of the country and the roads being closed.
(Note.—A
small party of cavalry marched along this road at the rate of 3 to
4 miles per hour.)
By Major G. de H. Smith,
February, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Camp Goha
—
—
Left Camp Goha in a north-westerly
direction—road leads across the plateau and crosses some khors.
This is a good road and apparently much used by Gallabas, as their
camping places at intervals on the khors were passed—where there is
the usual pool or trickling stream. The road comes to top of pass
marked 4,670 feet. From here an extensive view is obtained of Dul,
J. Jerok, etc.
The descent of the pass is steep,
although the road is well defined. There is only one real good
halting place on a spur before descending into the Barsu
valley.
K. Barsu
9
14
The road crosses the khor at a
conspicuous Gemmeiza tree where there is water in small quantities.
Further on the stream runs in places and disappears again. A good camping ground is
reached a 5 hours from camp at Goha which is used by Gallabas.
Camp Khor Bosuk
8
22
The road leads along the khor, water
running at intervals of 45 minutes; from this point the roads
separate to Dul Jerok and towards Mindok. Taking the last one khor
under J. Agadi is reached—good grazing and water here, and
vegetables cultivated—from here camp Bosuk is one hour and half
along the broken ground at foot of slopes of the Beldoesu
valley.
(Note.—A
small party of Cavalry marched along this route at an average rate
of 2¾ miles per hour.)
By Major G. de H. Smith,
March, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Camp Khor Bosuk
—
—
The road runs along the foot of the N.
slopes of J. Beldoesu. A new road has now been made along the other
side of valley and along course of stream, which is much better
going.
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)
12
12
From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot
of water (running in khor). The road goes up a slope up the
Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old villages). The
ascent up the valley is easy at first, afterwards up steep slopes
with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up, at one place a
running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream,
difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the
road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on
the top of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine
7
19
From top of pass the road goes along the
plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where
there is a flowing stream, good shade, grazing and camping
ground.
Khor Afaferi
13
32
From Khor Eine good road round spur into
Goha. About 2 miles out on this road Goha-Asosa track strikes it in
a southerly direction, goes up parallel to N. slopes of Goha hills,
crossing pass on to top of plateau; water-course on N. side of
road, water also. Nearly at once cross a khor on top of plateau
with water which flows down in direction Khor Zalan. Road rocky in
few places, but on whole good. Good camp at Khor Afaferi, 13
miles.
Good road crosses a marsh near Abdel
Rahman Wad Khojali’s village, which is passed after 2½ hours’
march. Asosa comes in view across a wide valley which takes over 1
hour to get round; a water course passed. Convenient to water here
before going into Asosa, as water some distance off village.
Asosa
15
47
Asosa is a collection of villages on a
large spur which is part of the plateau and juts out over a
valley.
There are three rocky hills, all with
houses on them. People prosperous and well to do. A certain amount
of cultivation near, but chief cultivation near a small hill E. of
Asosa. Sheikh Hamed apparently a very determined ruler and looks
after his people. There is an Abyssinian post here of about 15 to
20 men.
(Note.—A
troop of Sudanese regular cavalry and a party of mounted irregulars
marched by this route at the rate of 3 miles per hour, forced
marching.)
By Major G. de H. Smith,
March, 1904.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Asosa
—
—
Leaving Asosa by road
to Goha and march for an hour along it. Then branch off W. and drop
off plateau on to a succession of small hills, with villages, going
along crest of their spurs. A few steep and rocky places in
crossing khors—to Khor Dadeferi—running stream with village above
it, not much room for camp.
K. Dadeferi
10
10
Ascent out of khor steep to village;
steep ascents and descents, passing cultivated clearings and
villages (all Hamed’s).
Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla)
8
18
Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla), good
running stream, pretty open ground here, good camp, grass
plentiful. Road now rises abruptly.
Khor Akori
6
24
Road, after rising abruptly out of valley
over hill, goes W., very steep and rocky track. Apparently not been
much used lately; passes over low rocky hills, a constant up and
down, S. of J. Fanoje and then turns N. along foot of Fanoje hills,
crosses Khor Akori, water here by digging, good grass.
Khor Zalan
6
30
After a mile strike Kirin road, along
this to Khor Zalan; water plentiful, also grass.
Camp Bosuk
6
36
Go along track for 3 miles, then strike
off to W., cross khor with water into camp.
By Captain H. H. Wilson, February
to March, 1904.
Note.—The route described in this
report, after crossing the Baro at 52½ miles from Gore, follows the
left bank of that river as far as Itang, thence the right bank to
Nasser, thence the left bank of the Sobat to Abwong. From Gambela,
64½ miles from Gore, the best track westwards lies along the right
bank. There is no difficulty in travelling by this route during the
driest season, i.e., February to May. Practically no
supplies can be relied on.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gore
Gore is described elsewhere. It is
surrounded by hills, some of which appear to be of nearly equal
height. Country thickly wooded, but being cleared for
cultivation.
2½
2½
Track from here gets bad, going through
forest and over a khor, east bank of which is very steep and
difficult.
3½
6
Forest gets very thick and tangled, roots
and fallen trees lying across track. Hills very steep.
3
9
Forest gets thinner, and glimpses of Gore
can be had. Villages also appear in the open clearings. Some of the
rivers hereabouts are bridged, but the bridges are very bad and
dangerous for animals, which can in dry season cross by
fording.
Rest house
3¼
12¼
House where travellers generally stop
first march out from Gore, or last march in.
1⅛
13⅜
Rocky river bed to cross. Route for next
6 miles is hilly and thickly wooded; several rivers to cross,
mostly with rocky bottoms.
5⅝
19
Beginning of Bure district; country much
more open and thickly populated and cultivated; track much less
hilly and wider.
5⅞
24⅞
Market place on top of a hill; market
twice a week.
Ato Melka’s house
4⅝
29½
Track much better here and hills not
difficult, country cleared of trees to great extent and much
cultivated.
1
30½
Market place.
Ato Takallé’s house
5⅞
36⅜
Situated on a hill. River to cross just
before reaching it. Takallé is governor of all Bure, and is charged
with guarding the pass at Goma, which leads up from the Baro
country.
Guard
4
40⅜
Guard house on hill (tukls and a “hosh”).
Officer stationed here with about 30 men to guard the pass and
report all arrivals and departures to the Ras.
Goma
6
46⅜
Rest houses on the top of pass. Descent
for first two miles very difficult, track winding amongst boulders
and large rocky slabs. It is necessary to use one’s hands and knees
in getting up some of the places.
2⅛
48½
Enter forest and cross mountain torrent,
which would probably be impassable after heavy rains. From here
down to the Baro ford is not difficult, though tiring, and, except
for one or two bad ravines, loaded animals can get along without
much difficulty.
River Baro (ford)
4
52½
Baro Ford spanned by a very ricketty
wooden bridge, which is no longer safe. Animals and men cross
river-bed in dry season: 3-4 feet of water. Crossing very difficult
owing to rocky uneven bottom and strong current, river here being
succession of rapids. After crossing Baro, track leaves river and
runs round hill, joining river again about 4 miles further on, from
whence track follows river more or less closely as far as
Gambela
12
64½
Long scattered district, villages mostly
on R. bank; a few small villages hidden in the forest on L. bank,
inhabitants of which fled on appearance of Abyssinians. Recognised
ferry here, two dug-outs. River, however, fordable for animals
(January 14). Thick forest both banks. River full of hippos and
crocodiles. Track leaves river here and runs about a mile inland as
far as
R. Bonga
1½
66
10 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and 1 to 2
feet water. Sandy bottom and passage easy. The regular track
westwards from Gambela is on R. bank. I, however, followed L. bank
to investigate. Gambela is called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track from
here very bad, almost nonexisting, it being necessary to hew a way
through the jungle in places. Ground very rocky at foot of small
hills.
River Ichok
11
77
River Wonkai
1½
78½
River Wangd Wong
1
79½
River Wanten
¾
80¼
All above dry (February, 1904). Width
from 20 to 50 yards. Sandy bottoms and steep banks. Must be quite
impassable after heavy rains, but Anuaks say that they quickly
drain off.
Ile de Faidherbe
½
80¾
Series of rapids and small islands in dry
season. Site where steamer was stranded marked by huge stone like a
tomb-stone, 10 feet high, on a grass-covered island, which is
submerged at high Nile. Anuaks and Abyssinians say the Faidherbe
was carried away about three months after being left there, in
three pieces, by Joti’s and Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men carrying
a section on a tree trunk. Traces of broad track cleared for this
purpose on river bank noticeable now. Small village right, track on
left very bad, runs through long grass and forest to beginning
of
Finkio (Penkio) (site of Trading
Station)
7¾
88½
Finkio; natives
pronounce it Finkio, not Penkio. Villages, i.e., clusters
of huts or homesteads all along river here onwards. Names of
villages marked on map are misleading, as the name applies to a
district perhaps 10 miles long. A shorter track exists from near
Ogara to Itang, but I could not take it, as it was past mid-day,
and I had to halt on water. Track on to Itang from Nyokwar very
bad, as it follows all bends of river except in one place, and
ground is a succession of small deep gullies that are impassable
for transport unless ramped, or marched round.
Nyokwar
14½
103
Ideni
14½
117½
Beginning of district of Ideni R. and
Itang L.
Itang
3
120½
Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave. Sheikh
Gelo, brother-in-law of Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is much feared
by Anuaks, who
approach his presence on all fours. Baro fordable here (February),
2 to 3 feet deep. Fine Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good forest of
fuel trees in vicinity.
Most of these distances will not compare
with the map, as there is no regular track on left bank. Owing to
swampy nature of country in rains, track continually changes as
fresh ground becomes passable and country dries up and gets burnt.
Track in places dangerous, as it runs through dense long grass,
within a foot of a 10 to 15 feet drop into river. Cows and
transport animals fell over this on several occasions.
Ajuoto
1
121½
Track between Itang and Gambela must be
followed on right bank, that on left is too bad. Cross river at
Itang. One mile on is village, part of district of Pangmala,
village being under Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is situated in a
dense rubber forest, and the rubber vines are found all along the
river in the Anuak country. Nobody collects the rubber. All
approaches to this village were closed with thorn “abattis,” owing
to the presence of Abyssinians.
1
122½
Cross a small khor, which is sandy and
fordable for animals at this point only at this time of year. There
is a shorter track, which leaves the Sheikha’s village on the
right, but leads to a wide part of the khor, impassable to animals
owing to deep mud. Track now runs along edge of dense forest right
and broad khor left, with forest beyond.
3
125½
Forest left ceases and khor runs into
open plain. Track crosses khor several times; liable to be muddy
and difficult.
2
127½
Big khor runs down from forest on right
to river, passable only close up to forest.
1
128½
Another big khor to cross, similar to
above; mouth of this khor very deep and steep, impassable for
animals, which must cross up by forest. Track now inland, 1 to 2
miles from river.
11½
140
Big khor to cross with lake inland, about
1 mile from river.
Kaich
1
141
Large Nuer village marked as Kaich, but
name not recognised. Track from here uniformly good, passing over a
broad grass plain which lies beyond the belt of trees that fringe
the Baro and the forest further inland. The plain is burnt in
January and becomes passable; it is under water during the rains.
Several Nuer dry season villages along the plain, but these people
all go off in the rains inland; probably a few small villages
remain, that are built on small mounds. Game abounds in the forest
inland here.
3
144
Track strikes a big khor and runs along
N. bank of it for 1½ miles, and then crosses it. Villages dotted
all along khor.
2
146
Cross khor again near
its junction with river near big round island. River round this
island (S. channel) is very rapid and difficult. Villages all along
here, track runs inland and passes big village shown on map as
Kaig, which name is not recognised. Nuers have mostly left this
village since traders arrived.
Kaig
5
151
R. Adura
1
152
Balamkun, or Kwemnum, eastern junction of
Adura with Baro. Adura mouth dry (2nd January), but water in large
reach further along. Good gemmeiza trees all along Baro up to here
for last few miles, but no trees met with after this until Ajungmir
(mile 216).
K. Chaich
4½
156½
Khor Chaich, not shown on map.
R. Baitiok
3⅞
160⅜
Khor Baitiok dry (February), 10 yards
wide, shallow; track has followed this khor for last three
miles.
K. Jokau
½
160⅞
Khor Jokau, 2 to 2½ feet of water, very
strong current, waterway 20 feet wide. Natives all say that this is
the only mouth of Garre and that Khor Machar does not communicate
with Garre. Villages of Baitiok, or Chanchai opposite on left bank.
Cultivation—both banks and huts. These Nuers come from Garjak where
their wet-season villages are.
3
163⅞
Big shallow khor, full of weeds but
nearly dry. Track all along here is excellent, several miles inland
from river; burnt grass plain.
Kwe
6¾
170⅝
Large winter village of Nuers, Kwe; very
friendly; track now descends to the river at
K. Machar
3
173⅝
Only a winter (dry season) residence;
groups of these temporary villages are dotted about. Khor Machar
dried up. Natives say it does not discharge water, but only fills
up from the Baro. The mouth of Khor Machar is much bigger than that
of Jokau.
5⅝
179¼
Big khor runs E. and W. with water in it.
There is no track here at all (February, 1904), and way had to be
forced through jungle of rank unburnt grass.
Kamkiri (E.)
6⅞
186⅛
E. end of island of Kamkiri. Village ¾
mile inland. River called Mainyal; only temporary. Distances from
Machar are probably all too long, owing to winding about through
the grass; under similar circumstances however they will not be
found to be much less.
Kamkiri (W.)
3½
189⅝
W. end of island of Kamkiri. Not a tree
visible anywhere, and no shade available. Grass unburnt (21st
February), and going very difficult.
10½
200⅛
Khor with half a foot of water in
it.
K. Loinkildom
4¼
204⅜
Khor muddy, steep banks, probably that
shown on map as Loinkildom, which name was not recognised.
¼
204⅝
Another khor similar to above.
K. Makeir
⅝
205¼
Khor Makeir and village right, very big
khor, 15 feet deep, 40 to 50 yards. Wide sandy bottom, dry and
passable in places (February). Water in deep pools.
6
211¼
Going as bad as before. Thin bush starts
right.
1¾
213
Khor with water in it; muddy bottom, 3
feet wide, 3 feet deep.
K. Nyakol
2
215
Ten yards wide, 6 feet deep, 3 feet of
water with mud; very perpendicular banks; this was a very bad
obstacle, even the saddles having to be taken off mules’ backs
(February 22).
Ajungmir
1½
216½
Village on right bank, trees near.
3¼
219¾
Track cuts across corner and strikes
river again at
Nyariau
1¾
221½
Village of Nyariau, in 3 parts; 1 small
part on bank of river, and 1 large and 1 small about 10 yards
inland. Track runs inland through bush and forest, and strikes
river at mile
2
223½
Very thick gemmeiza trees left bank, bush
right. River fordable here (February, 1904).
3⅛
226⅝
Beginning of Anuak, part of Taufot, right
bank. Track cuts across here to
Taufot
1¼
227⅞
Taufot (Nuer), very big compact village;
stands back. Latest map shows big island near Taufot, but it is
non-existent.
Khor Wakau
2¼
230⅛
Thirty yards wide at mouth, but opens out
to nearer 150 yards higher up. Muddy bottom; 20 feet deep in rains,
3 to 5 feet in dry season. Big village of Kadbeg short way up
Wakau.
Nasser
3
233⅛
Nasser left, Kwoinlualtong, right bank,
for the last 2 miles upstream from Nasser. River not fordable here
(February), but animals swam over at lower end of island, opposite
Nasser, without difficulty.
Khor and fishing village of Tolor; khor
60 yards wide, and 3 to 5 feet deep, muddy. Track follows khor down
right bank, and crosses it at junction with river at mile
2¼
241⅜
Crossing 3 feet deep, artificial channel
for catching fish. Track now follows river for 1½ miles, then cuts
across corner for Manajok.
3⅝
245
Khor with 2 feet of water in it; good
crossing.
Manajok
2⅞
247⅞
Manajok, Nuer part of village; swamp
between village and river, few trees.
¼
248⅛
Anuak part of village on bank, good
Meshra, thin bush behind.
Nyakoik
1⅝
249¾
⅜
250⅛
Thin heglig forest. Huts all along from
Nyakoik.
Tuargai
⅝
250¾
Shillup
6½
257¼
Good heglig forest left most of the way,
and plenty of shade trees, though none shown on map. A khor 3 feet
deep, just before reaching Shillup. Track follows river till
Nyanglang
2⅝
259⅞
And then cuts across corner through
forest to Fauwel.
Fauwel
2¼
262⅛
Large scattered village, running back
into the woods; good shade trees and meshra and camping ground.
Track all along bank.
K. Nyandieng
2⅞
265
Very broad mouth, 1½ miles wide; main
discharge about 1 mile further on, deep and artificially deepened
for fishing; crossed by two rough bridges. This khor is said to
connect with Nerol (Khor Filus). Some Nuers say it does, and some
not.
Manchom
3⅝
268⅝
Shown on map as Sholwaga.
Shwol
3
271⅝
Shown on map as Fugah. Track from here on
edge of forest, swamp between it and river.
Gaiyat
2⅛
273¾
Shown on map as Abong. Nuers would not
accept three names above as per map. A lot of these Nuer and Anuak
villages have two or more names, and people who use one name
pretend not to know other.
Patiyam
2
275¾
Thick forest behind swamp; few good shade
trees on bank. Track runs along edge of forest some distance from
river.
Gohinya
3¼
279
Scattered village hidden in forest.
Fanyang
3
282
Scattered village in heglig forest. Track
from here runs over dry swamp. A track exists at certain seasons of
the year, generally when grass is burnt, from Nyangdeng to near
Fanyang, saving a big round by the river. A track also exists from
Fanyang to Wigin in a direct line, but was reported to be still
choked with grass (3rd March, 1904).
Malwal
3¾
285¾
Track leaves river within sight of
Malwal, then runs through long grass to near Fedwil, then along
edge of khor and through bush to
Wigin
4⅛
289⅞
Small village 20 yards back from river,
with deep swamp between village and bank (dry marsh), 2 poor shade
trees in village. Track gets on to river bank at 291st mile.
1⅛
291
Good shade trees and thick bush; thick
forest right bank ½ mile inland; end of Nuer country, though all
along from Nasser the country is populated with Nuers and Anuaks
mixed, Nuers predominating and letting Anuaks live on suffrance.
From here onwards path is through bush to
Shwai
1
292
Long scattered Anuak village.
Fatiwanyang
4
296
In thick bush. From here to Yakwoik broad
swamp between bush and river. Track in dry season runs over
swamp.
2⅝
298⅝
Khor with 2 feet water; several other
khors to cross, marching along this swamp.
Yakwoik
3
301⅝
Anuak village on river bank. No bush,
only grass plain round village.
1½
303⅛
Junction of road that
cuts across to Gnok with river track. Good meshra at junction;
thick bush left. Bush and few trees right. One mile inland. From
here track cuts across country to a debba on the river (Debba
Dishin), where Yuzb. Abdel Rahim Eff. Nur El Gawab was buried in
1902, having died on the way to Nasser. From here track follows
river, crossing two khors.
A very big and important khor flows into
the Sobat at Abwong, called Wangnait; this runs inland past
Fanathiang, and is said to join khor Filus at Nerol. Two feet of
water in Wangnait (March, 1904), and running water. Abwong on sandy
ground, good meshra; upstream limit of Dinka country. Serut flies
were very bad, all through the thick bush country from Fauwel to
Yakwoik.
(Compiled by the Editor.)
By Captain Dugmore,
1901.
Country.Near Gondokoro the country
is perfectly flat and 30 feet above the river, covered with
borassus palm near the station, sidr, sunt, and a few tamarinds and
sycamore. Due E. lie the hills of Belinian (about 11 hours’ march).
The surface soil is sandy and the sub-soil clay. There are many
very fertile islands in the Nile covered with cane-like reed, very
like papyrus. Natives prefer to live on and cultivate these
islands, as they are not subject to white ants, grasshoppers,
caterpillars, and blight, with all of which cultivation has to
contend on the mainland. Flocks of small birds do great damage to
grain crops. At high Nile these islands are subject to inundation;
the natives then go over to the mainland.
The station now
occupied at Gondokoro occupies the site of the old Egyptian post—a
good many of the old trenches and parapets still exist. The old
buildings, &c., have long ago fallen into the river, which is
said to be twice (?) as wide now as it was in Baker’s time. Baker’s
old camp (“Ismailia”) is in a swampy, low-lying piece of ground,
about 2 miles N. of the old Egyptian station. Two date palms, 11
lemon trees, and two custard apple trees, still remain at
Gondokoro.
Rain percolating and the river washing away cause continual
falls of the bank.
Garrison.One company of Uganda
Rifles (Sudanese), under a British Captain, Lieutenant, and
Sergeant-Instructor. A small number of Police or Constabulary have
been added, and are under the control of the Civil Authority, viz.:
a Collector.
Supplies.At present nearly all
stores, ammunition, and clothing, come from Mombasa, India, and
England, viâ Kampala. Food is obtained by purchase from
the natives.[46]
Natives grow red dura and maize chiefly, also a small amount of
semsem, telabun, ful (ground nut), and lubia (small pea or bean).
The ground nut does particularly well in the sandy soil. The sweet
potato requires irrigation, and the natives do not take kindly to
such laborious work.
Climate.The climate is fairly
good, the rainy season at its commencement being the worst time of
the year. Temperature:—
Average
maximum
during the
hot months is
99°
in the shade.
„
minimum
„
„
85°
„
„
maximum
during the
rest of the year is
88°
in the shade.
„
minimum
„
„
74°
„
Seasons.Hot weather commences
middle of November and lasts till end of March. Rains commence (or
should do so) last week in March and last till middle of June, they
commence again middle of July and last till middle of October.
The rains are erratic, there being sometimes a drought and
sometimes too much rain.
Products.Dura, maize, semsem,
ground nuts, beans, and fish. A small quantity of ivory. Salt from
the left bank. Ostrich feathers from the Latuka. (N.B.—According to
recent game regulations, it is forbidden to buy feathers unless it
can be shown that they were pulled from a tame bird.)
Cattle.In the Nile province
generally, the goats and sheep are small (much smaller than those
of the Sudan), and have little to recommend them. The cattle (the
few that are left) are also small, but are good milkers on the
whole.
Game.Elephant, hippopotami and
rhinoceros plentiful, especially the two former, a few zebras and
giraffe, hartebeeste (? Jackson’s), waterbuck, bush buck, cobus
Thomasi (Uganda cob), and dig-dig abound. Buffalo and warthog may
be met with. Lion, leopard, and wild cat are fairly plentiful.
(N.B.—During the dry weather months the game is found near the
river in quantities; when the grass is high and there is water
inland, it is not so easy to see much). Guinea fowl, greater and
lesser bustard, quail snipe, ducks, geese, and other waterfowl and
partridges are nearly always to be shot.
By Captain Dugmore,
1901.
Place.
Miles.
Description.
Inter-mediate.
Total.
Gondokoro
—
—
A good road, though apt to be swampy in
the rains.
River Kit
12
12
Cross River Kit; a sandy river about 180
yards wide, which is easily crossed except after very heavy rain
(it subsides quickly). On the E. Lokoya’s chain of hills, about 11
hours march; greatest height about 1,500 feet. Road through dense
thorn scrub, sidr very plentiful. Soil changes after passing Kit to
a clayey formation in places, and stones and rocky kopjes become
abundant. A rose quartz, very similar to the Rhodesian gold-bearing
quartz in appearance, is plentiful. Most of the kopjes appear to be
of volcanic origin. Ground rises in undulating folds from the Kit
to opposite Dufile.
Fort Berkeley
10
22
From Fort Berkeley (= Bedden—abandoned),
two roads lead S., one inland on the high ground for use during the
wet season.
Adam Madi
8
30
The river road follows the river as far
as Adam Madi’s,[47] and is used when no water is obtainable
on upper road. Fine scenery, very rocky ground, sandy; plentiful
remains of old Bari villages. Near Adam Madi’s-beautiful park-like
country, with very large timbers, both tamarind and (?) sycamore.
Country now becomes more hilly and is more thickly populated.
The Khor Um or Uma is the real southern
boundary of the Bari tribe, but the district is supposed to extend
to the
Khor Assua
69
99
Khor Assua (mouth 94 miles from Gondokoro
measured along the river) and, consequently, includes a few
villages of Madi and Shuli tribes.
The road used to go some little way from
the river to Affuddu (a few miles S. of Nimule, now abandoned), but
since the occupation of Nimule, the road from Adam Madi’s almost
follows the course of the river, which flows through high, almost
precipitous banks.
Nimule
17
116
Garrison at Nimule, two companies of
Sudanese (124 strong each), and the same number of British officers
each as at Gondokoro. Is headquarters of Nile military district,
situated on N. bank of Unyama river at its junction with the Nile.
Between Nimule and Wadelai the road is good.
Lamogi, in the Shuli country, 16 miles W.
of Fatiko, and 50 miles S.S.E. of Nimule, is now abandoned; rains
about 9 months in the year.
Wadelai
77
193
Wadelai, on the right bank, is the
head-quarters of the Nile Province Civil Administration, some
police or constabulary are posted here. River only 200 yards wide
here. There is a road from here to Fajao (Murchison Falls), 46
miles, not used now.
As one goes S., the climate generally
becomes cooler than at Gondokoro. It should also be healthier, but
there has been a lot of sickness among the British officers in the
past, perhaps due to bad quarters. Country S. of Khor Assua is more
fertile and much more thickly populated than the Bari
district.
Note.—See also report by Mr. F. Pordage,
Public Works Department, Uganda, in Uganda Intelligence Report, No.
15; and Handbook of Uganda, pp. 52-57.
Path good, river Gomoro (Kit) is at times
bad to cross.
Camp
13
4½
24
8
Path good.
Camp
15
5
39
13
Path good.
Fagiri
12
4
51
17
Path good; rocky in places. Large
village; considerable supplies of food.
Keri
13
5
64
22
Path bad for 2 miles, remainder
good.
Arabu
16
5½
80
27½
Path very bad.
Junction Camp
13
4½
93
32
Path bad. River Assua difficult to cross.
When in flood about 80 yards wide and 14 feet deep, with a swift
current; when not in flood the river is fordable. Crossing is at
all times dangerous on account of the numerous crocodiles.
Nimule
14
4½
107
36½
Path good. River Unyama at times bad to
cross.
Zaipi
18
4
125
40½
Path good.
Boreli
10
4
135
44½
Path good.
Acho
16
5½
151
50
Path good. River Zoka at times bad to
cross.
Pranga
16
6
167
56
Path good.
Avoi
13
4
180
60
Path good. River Chorr is at times bad to
cross.
Wadelai
19
6
199
66
Note.—A small supply of food can usually
be supplied at each of the above camps, with the exception of the
Junction Camp. Water is obtainable at all camps. At many places
fish can be bought. Trade goods are brass, wire, small white beads,
candles, matches, bottles, and some cloth. Tarbushes are much
appreciated by the chiefs. Hippo. abound in the Nile, and elephants
between Nimule and Gondokoro. Lions are seen occasionally.
See also reports by Col. Coles, D.S.O.,
“Nimule to Gondokoro, and Gondokoro to Nimule,” in Uganda
Intelligence Report, No. 19.
The following short account of the country
between Nimule and Gondokoro is given by Sir C. Eliot (July, 1902),
from Geographical Journal, December, 1902:—
“Immediately after Nimule begin the rapids, which
render the river unnavigable up to Bedden, about 30 miles above
Gondokoro. This latter station and Nimule are connected by two
roads, neither of them good. One keeps close to the Nile, and was
impracticable when I made the journey, as it was under water owing
to recent rains;[50] the other runs further inland. It cannot
be said to offer adequate means for communicating between two
Government stations, or for the transport of any sort of goods. For
a great part of its course is obstructed by marshes, thorn bushes,
or grass 6 feet high; but here and there it passes through pleasant
open meadows, studded with large trees. Part of it consists of
precipitous paths cut in the rock, and it is crossed by many
rivers, at least three of which, the Assua, the Karpata (?), and
the Kit (or Kiti), present serious obstacles to foot passengers
when in flood, as I found them. The first is crossed on rafts made
of ambach, a very light wood. The natives show considerable skill
in guiding these rafts across the torrent, but the passenger or
load is generally half submerged. The two other rivers have to be
crossed by wading, and are about 4 feet deep. The Kit was about 150
yards wide. The whole journey took me 7 days, that is to say, 6
night camps. The distance is between 110 and 120 miles.”
(Compiled from Official
Publications, &c.)
Plenty of notice must be given by the intending traveller, in
order to secure the use of porters, boats, mules, and carts.
Nimule to Butiaba.From Nimule
onwards the traveller can generally make use of Government boats.
Between Nimule and Wadelai ([51]93 miles) the usual craft
is a small steel rowing boat, and from Wadelai to Butiaba ([51]72 miles), (the Uganda Government Depôt on the
E. shore of Lake Albert), a large steel boat which goes best under
sail. The usual time occupied between Nimule and Butiaba is 10 to
12 days up stream, and 5 to 8 days down stream. A steam launch will
shortly be placed on the river between these points.
Butiaba to Kampala.At Butiaba is a
pier and landing stage. From Butiaba viâ Hoima to Kampala,
157 miles (telegraph), the road is fairly suitable for driving. The
distance has been done in 4½ days, but the usual time taken is 8
days (driving) to 12 days (marching, with porters). The Stages
are:—
Kampala to Entebbe.From Kampala to
Entebbe, the capital, situated on the Victoria Nyanza, is 23 miles
along a good cart road.
Entebbe to Port Florence.From
Entebbe there is a fortnightly steamer across the lake to Kisumu,
or Port Florence, the terminus of the railway to Mombasa. The
crossing takes 2 to 3 days per steamer, and up to 10 or 15 days by
sailing dhow.
Port Florence to Mombasa.From Port
Florence to Mombasa there is a weekly train (or more)—fare, 109½
rupees; the distance, 584 miles, is traversed in about 2¼ days.
There is a monthly service from Mombasa, both by British India
and by German steamers.
Recapitulation.
Journey.
Days.
Transport.
Gondokoro to Nimule
7 to 8
March on foot. Carriers.
Nimule to Wadelai
6
„ „
„ „
6 to 8
Row-boat.
Wadelai to Butiaba
4 to 6
Sailing boat.
„ „
3
Steam launch.
Butiaba to Kampala
4 to 8
Mule cart.
„ „
10 to 12
March. Carriers.
Kampala to Entebbe
1
Mule cart.
„ „
2
March. Carriers.
Entebbe to Port Florence
2 to 3
Steamer.
„ „ „
8 to 15
Sailing boat.
Port Florence to Mombasa
2½
Train.
Record possible, Gondokoro to Mombasa: 25½
days.
Roads.A road runs from Kiro to
Rejaf direct, at some distance from the river bank, with a branch
road to Lado.
The road from Rejaf as far as Faraji—170 miles to the S.W.—is
about the same width as a good English high road. It has many
bridges over streams, small khors, &c. They are made of wood
and are not at all strong. There is a project to run
automobiles[54] over this road, but the bridges are not at
present (June, 1903) strong enough. One automobile will probably
run between Rejaf and Yei station (94 miles), and another from Yei
to Dongu (62 miles), as there is no bridge over the Yei. The Yei
and Dongu are 40 to 60 yards broad and very deep during the
rains.
There are some parts of the road which are worse than others,
and it is proposed to have small stations at which bullocks will be
kept in order to pull the automobiles over them.
There are rest-house stations every two or three hours the whole
way from Rejaf to Dongu and Ibembo (v. below). At each of
these stations there are houses for Europeans, and at a great
number of them bananas, pawpaws, fowls, eggs, &c., are now
obtainable.
Vegetables, bananas, &c., are being planted at all the
stations.
Each station is in charge of one or more soldiers.
Loka or Loki.Loka (called also
Gumbiri).—Four days (62 miles) from Rejaf. A white officer in
charge, and one or two N.C.O.’s. Surrounded by a wooden stockade.
About six good brick buildings with grass roofs.
Yei.Yei.—Close to the Nile-Congo
watershed. Two days (37 miles) from Gumbiri. Large fortified
station, but not yet completed, situated on high ground, from which
good view of the surrounding country is obtained. A far larger
station than Lado. About ten white officers and a doctor. None of
the Belgian Nile stations in any way compare with this one. All
white men’s houses are outside the fortifications. About 12 good
brick buildings with grass roofs; very healthy.
Aba.Aba.—Three days (32 miles)
from Yei. Wooden stockade. Four brick houses and a large one being
built for the Commandant. The latter outside stockade. One white
officer and one N.C.O.
Faraji.Faraji.—Four days (38
miles) from Aba, on left bank of River Dongu. Brick wall about 6
feet high. Ditch outside; earth from ditch thrown up against the
wall. Good brick buildings. Three white officers.
Dongu, &c.Dongu.—Five or six
days from Faraji; at junction of Rivers Dongu and Kibali. Brick
buildings.
Stations beyond Dongu, towards the Congo, on the automobile
road, are:—
Niangara.
Surunga.
Amadi.
Bomokandi.
Mbima.
Buta.
Ibembo.
A road also leads from Mbima to Jabbir and Gembele.
Bofaki.Bofaki, or Wando.—Important
post, and garrison. Healthy. Large rubber and coffee
plantations.
Rejaf.Rejaf: on the Nile.—Small
post. Bullock carts take 20 days along the sandy road from Yei;
usual time 7 days by march route.
Dufile.Dufile.—Small post. There
is a railway-track ready made from here to Stanleyville on the
Congo; not ready for traffic yet.
At all the posts mentioned there are cattle, fowls, bananas,
vegetables, &c.
Mails leave Lado for Ibembo on the 1st and 15th of every
month.
From Rejaf a road is being made to New Dufile, thence to Mahaji.
This road is joined at Kaji Kaji, about 60 miles S. of Rejaf, by a
road from Loka.
From Yei a road runs down the Yei River to Amadi.
LONDON: PRINTED FOR HIS MAJESTY’S STATIONERY
OFFICE, BY HARRISON AND SONS, ST. MARTIN’S LANE.
[36]The position of this, described by
Lieut.-Col. Colvile, is doubtful. Some Arabs state that Shebba is 8
hours’ march E. of Terfawi (?).
[37]Lieutenant Stuart-Wortley makes Selima to
Lagia 140 miles; Captain Hodgson makes it 148, but left the regular
track.
[38]Captain Hodgson did it (February, 1903) in
under 5 days, including 42½ hours actual riding—nearly 4 miles per
hour.
[39]Though Bir Sultan to J. Meidob appears to be
the shortest route, the route to J. Anka is stated to be the one
generally used.
[40]Conditions may have changed for the better
since the delimitation of the Sudan-Eritrea frontier.
[41]For continuation of this route to Sofi on
Atbara, videRoute 13.
[42]For more recent report Lake Tsana to
Gallabat vide Routes 126 and
127.
[45]About 64 miles from Kodok, vide
routes 47 and 48.
[46]Cows, £5 to £7; oxen and bulls, £2 to £4;
sheep and goats, 5s. to 10s. each; eggs, 8 for 1s.; fowls, 6d.;
labourer, 10s. a month. (Mr. F. Spire, Collector, Gondokoro,
August, 1903.)
[47]Another account places Adam Madi’s at 42
miles from Gondokoro, and some distance inland.
[48]Taken from “Précis of Information concerning
the Uganda Protectorate.”—I.D.W.O.
[49]Distances by time for men travelling light;
25% to be added for Caravans.
[50]I am told by Mr. Pordage that the halting
places on this road are as follows:—“(1) Assua river, 11¼ miles;
(2) Rake village, 11 miles; (3) Mruli, 12 miles; (4) Lokoya, 12½
miles; (5) Tambur, 12¼ miles; (6) Kogi, 9¾ miles; (7) Nagua, 10
miles; (8) Fort Berkeley, 12 miles; (9) Ibrahim’s village, 12
miles; (10) Gondokoro, 10 miles.” (Total, 112¾ miles.)
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