Textiles

About this eBook

Author

McGowan, Ellen Beers, 1873-1963

Title

Textiles; a handbook for the student and the consumer

Original Publication

New York: The MacMillan Company, 1913, copyright 1926.

Credits

Charlene Taylor, Harry Lamé and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)

Language

English

LoC Class

TS: Technology: Manufactures

Subject

Textile fabrics

Category

Text

Project Gutenberg

eBook-No. 79838

Release Date

October 22, 2026

Copyright

Public domain in the USA.

Contents

1. 1.Untitled
2. 2.TEXTILES
3. 3.Untitled
4. 4.Untitled
5. 5.Untitled
6. 6.PREFACE TO REVISED EDITION
7. 7.PREFACE TO FIRST EDITION
8. 8.CONTENTS
9. 9.CHAPTER I BEGINNING OF THE TEXTILE INDUSTRIES — Primitive Conditions. — Carding by Hand. — Spinning by Hand. — Weaving by Hand. — Principles Underlying Weaving. — Primitive Looms.
10. 10.CHAPTER II CARDING AND SPINNING — Carding by Machine. — Spinning by Wheels. — The Great Wheel. — The Parts of the Great Wheel — The Motion of the Great Wheel. — The Method of Spinning on the Great Wheel. — The Flax or Saxony Wheel — The Parts of the Saxony Wheel — The Motion of the Saxony Wheel — The Method of Spinning on the Saxony Wheel. — Spinning Machines Developed from the Principles of the Wheels. — Modern Spinning Frames. — Mule Spinning—Intermittent Motion — Ring Spinning—Continuous Motion. — The Development of Industrial and Social Life. — The Industrial Revolution
11. 11.CHAPTER III WEAVING — The Hand Loom. — The Parts of the Hand Loom — The Working of the Loom. — Winding, Warping, Beaming, and Drawing In. — Warping. — Taking Off the Finished Cloth. — Tapestry Looms.
12. 12.CHAPTER IV POWER WEAVING AND DESIGN — The Transition to Power Weaving. — The Power Loom — Parts of the Plain Power Loom. — The Driving Parts of the Plain Loom. — The Jacquard Loom — Various Attachments. — Design and Draft. — Twills — Satins or Figured Weaves. — Various Fabrics. — Pile Fabrics. — Stitched, Backed, Double-faced, Double, and Multiple Cloths.
13. 13.CHAPTER V KNIT GOODS — The Industry in the United States. — Foreign knitting centers — Early Inventions. — What Knitting Is. — Varieties of Machines. — Yarns in Use. — Knit Goods. — Hosiery. — Wear. — Underwear — Outer Wear. — Standardization of Knit Goods.
14. 14.CHAPTER VI WOOLEN AND WORSTED—RAW MATERIALS — Scope and Value of the Industry. — Decrease in Wool Growing. — Changes in the Character of Wool Grown. — Wool- and Hair-Bearing Animals. — Growth and Care of Sheep. — Varieties of Wool on One Sheep. — Classifying and Grading. — Variations in Characteristics and Qualities of Fiber. — Properties of Wool. — Classification of Wools. — Other Market Classifications. — Varieties of Fabrics. — Pulled Wool, By-Products of Wool, and Substitutes for Wool. — Pulled Wool — By-Products of Wool. — Reworked Wool (Shoddy) — Substitutes for Wool — Summary of Wool Production. — Wool Marketing.
15. 15.CHAPTER VII WOOLEN AND WORSTED—MANUFACTURE — Woolen and Worsted Spinning. — Explanation of Processes — Sorting. — The Feed. — Dusting. — Scouring. — Raw Stock Dyeing. — Drying. — Blending. — Oiling. — Woolen Yarn — Burr Extracting or Burr Picking. — Picking, Teasing, Opening, Willowing, and the Fearnaught. — Carding. — Drawing and Doubling. — Mule Spinning. — Skein Dyeing or Dyeing in the Yarn. — Worsted Yarn — Carding. — Back Washing. — Gilling before Combing. — Combing. — Gilling after Combing. — Drawing and Doubling. — Spinning. — Counts or Sizes of Yarns. — Weaving and Sizing. — Finishing. — Inspection or Perching. — Burling and Mending. — Washing and Drying. — Fulling, Milling, Felting, or Shrinking. — Flocks. — Washing, Drying, Crabbing, and Tentering. — Napping, Gigging, or Raising. — Shearing, Cutting or Cropping, and Brushing. — General Finishes. — Final Pressing. — Special Finishes. — Other Uses of Wool and Worsted Yarns. — The Carpet and Rug Industries — Wastes and By-Products. — Cutting-Up Trade. — Wool Manufacture in Leading Countries. — Woolen and Worsted Materials — Mixtures with Wool
16. 16.CHAPTER VIII THE COTTON INDUSTRY — Some Economic and Commercial Conditions. — Properties. — Botany and Growth. — The American Cotton Belt — The Leading Cotton-Growing Countries — Planting and Picking. — Enemies of the Cotton Plant. — Cotton Ginning. — Baling and Handling. — The Industry in the United States. — Cotton Marketing. — Classifying and Grading of Cotton. — Cotton Spinning. — The following processes — The Bale Breaker or Cotton Puller — Picker, Opener, Willower, and Scutcher. — Breaker Picker; Intermediate Picker; Finisher Picker. — Carding — Combing — Drawing and Doubling. — Slubbing by Bobbin and Fly Frames. — Spinning. — Cotton Yarns — Bleaching. — Mercerizing. — Dyeing. — Sizing or Slashing. — Counts or Numbering. — Winding, Spooling, Warping, and Drawing-in. — Weaving — Finishing Cotton Cloth. — Cotton Printing and Printing Machines. — Cotton Manufacturing. — Cotton Materials — Cotton Materials Looking Like Other Textiles
17. 17.CHAPTER IX SILK — Economic Considerations. — Properties. — Life History. — Various diseases and parasites — Silk Reeling. — Spun Silk. — Degumming. — Dressing — Spinning. — Producing Countries. — Silk in the United States. — Marketing, Classification, and Conditioning. — Silk Throwing. — Doubling and Twisting. — Dyeing and Attendant Processes — Weighting — Stretching and Lustering (for silk thread). — Printing. — Winding the Yarn, Warping and Weaving. — Finishing. — Silk Mixed Goods. — Silk Manufacture. — Representative Silk Fabrics — Mixed Goods — Woven Underwear — Rayon (Artificial Silk)
18. 18.CHAPTER X LINEN AND MINOR FIBERS — Economics and Statistics. — Properties. — Botany and Growth. — Rippling. — The Seeds. — Retting Flax. — Breaking. — Scutching. — Spinning of the Line. — Machine Hackling. — Sorting and Cutting. — Spreadboard. — Drawing and Roving. — Spinning. — Tow Spinning. — Winding, Warping, Sizing, and Drawing-in. — Weaving. — Method of Counting. — Finishing. — Bleaching — Dressings. — Beetling — Linen Manufacturing. — The United States. — The Purchase of Linen. — Additional Fibers Used in Textile Manufacture — Ramie — Piña — Jute — Bast Hemps. — Hemps. — Cocoanut, coir, or coco fiber — Arghan. — Asbestos — Kapok. — Hair. — Representative Linen Materials — Lace and Embroidery — Real Laces. — Imitation or Machine Laces. — Cotton lace manufacture — Machine Embroideries. — Embossing.
19. 19.CHAPTER XI MICROSCOPIC STUDY OF TEXTILE FIBERS — Parts of the Microscope. — To Use Low Power — To Use High Power — Preparation of the Mount or Slide — Wool and Hair Fibers — Physiology and Structure. — Reworked Wool — The microscopic appearance of shoddy — Silk. — Wild Silk. — Rayon — Cotton. — Mercerized Cotton. — Flax. — Additional Fibers. — Jute — Hemp — Pineapple fiber — Coir. — Kapok — Substitute Fibers. — Microscopic Analysis of Fabrics.
20. 20.CHAPTER XII CHEMICAL STUDY OF TEXTILE FIBERS — Aims. — Scope. — Chemical Nature of Textile Fibers — Reactions of Wool. — Action of Acids and Alkalies on Wool. — Felting of Wool. — Action of Acids on Wool. — Reactions of Silk. — Alkalies. — Acids. — Salts. — Reactions of Vegetable Fibers. — Action of Alkalies. — Action of Acids. — Action of Salts. — Chlorine Bleaches — Lignocelluloses — Experiments — Elemental Composition. — Action of Acids. — Action of Alkalies. — Separation and Identification Tests — Color Differentiation Tests. — Separation of Wool-Cotton Mixtures. — Separation of Wool-Silk Mixtures. — Separation of Silk-Cotton Mixtures. — Silk and Wild (Tussah) Silk. — Rayon with Other Fibers. — Rayon-Cotton. — Cotton-Linen. — Special Chemical Processes — Dressing or Finishing Cotton and Linen. — Sizing and Weighting of Silk. — Mercerization. — Chlorinated and Unshrinkable Wool. — Fireproofing. — Waterproofing. — Chemistry of Rayon
21. 21.CHAPTER XIII DYES AND DYEING — Antiquity of the Art of Dyeing. — Modern Dyes. — Present Status of Dyes in the United States. — Processes Preparatory to Dyeing. — Carbonizing. — Scouring and Bleaching. — Nature of the Dyeing Process. — Classification of Dyestuffs. — Temperature and Other Considerations. — Scope of Experiments in Dyeing. — Preparation of Dye Solutions. — Forms of Market Dyeing. — Dyeing with Household Dyes — Reasons for Home Dyeing. — Equipment for Home Dyeing. — Choice of Dye. Purpose. — Suggestions for Dyeing. Procedure. — Stripping Color. — Physics of Color. — Classroom Exercises. — Tied and Dyed Work.
22. 22.CHAPTER XIV LAUNDRY NOTES — Felting of Wool. — Acids and Alkalies of the Household. — Soaps. — Bluings. — Fastness of Dyes. — Stain Removers. — Removal of Stains. — Suggested Exercises.
23. 23.CHAPTER XV HYGIENE OF CLOTHING — The Hygienic Importance of Clothing. — The Body in Its Ideal Condition — Clothing in Its Relation to Body Heat. — Clothing in Relation to Absorption. — Clothing and Cleanliness. — An Unrestricted Body. — Dangers in Textiles.
24. 24.CHAPTER XVI ECONOMIC AND SOCIAL ASPECTS OF TEXTILE PURCHASE — Some Statistics of the Textile and Clothing Industries. — Viewpoints. — Factors in Cloth Endurance. — Selection of Textiles and Clothing. — Shopping. — Making Clothing at Home — Some Simple Tests — Significance of Dress. — The Consumer’s Influence. — Large Numbers of Women are Employed — Waste in the Home — The Clothing Industries — The American Home Economics Association — Legislation, Federal and State.
25. 25.CHAPTER XVII CLOTHING BUDGETS — Accounts — The Service of a Budget: — The Idea of a Budget — Determining the Main Annual Expenses and the Income Needed to Supply Them. — The Clothing Division of the Budget. — The Layette. — A clothing survey
26. 26.BIBLIOGRAPHY
27. 27.GLOSSARY
28. 28.APPENDIX — Statistics ⁠ [75] — Section I. Wool-Growing Countries and Their Production — Section II. United States Imports and Exports of Wools, and Values — Section III. Comparison of Pre-War and Post-War Wool Prices — Section IV. Comparative Grades of Wool ⁠ [76] — Section V. Flax Fiber Production — Section VI. United States Imports of Linen Fabrics in 1924 — Reference Tables — Section VII. The Metric System, with Equivalents — Section VIII. Interchange and Comparison of Fahrenheit and Centigrade — Section IX. Comparison Between Specific Gravity and Densities. Beaumé and Twaddle. — Section X. Tables Showing the Preparation of Raw Material and the Four Different Kinds of Artificial Silk or Rayon Manufacture. ⁠ [77] ⁠
29. 29.INDEX — Transcriber’s Notes

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