A fine, brisk morning; a long, tree-bordered road dappled with fugitive
sunbeams, making a glory of puddles that leapt in shimmering spray
beneath our flying wheels. A long, straight road that ran on and on
unswerving, uphill and down, beneath tall, straight trees that flitted
past in never-ending procession, and beyond these a rolling, desolate
countryside of blue hills and dusky woods; and in the air from beyond
this wide horizon a sound that rose above the wind-gusts and the noise
of our going, a faint whisper that seemed in the air close about us
and yet to be of the vague distances, a whisper of sound, a stammering
murmur, now rising, now falling, but never quite lost.
In rain-sodden fields to right and left were many figures bent
in diligent labour, men in weather-worn, grey-blue uniforms and
knee-boots, while on the roadside were men who lounged, or sat smoking
cigarettes, rifle across knees and wicked-looking bayonets agleam,
wherefore these many German prisoners toiled with the unremitting
diligence aforesaid.
The road surface improving somewhat we went at speed and, as we lurched
and swayed, the long, straight road grew less deserted. Here and there
transport lorries by ones and twos, then whole convoys drawn up beside
the road, often axle deep in mud, or lumbering heavily onwards; and
ever as we went that ominous, stammering murmur beyond the horizon grew
louder and more distinct.
On we went, through scattered villages alive with khaki-clad figures
with morions cocked at every conceivable angle, past leafy lanes bright
with the wink of long bayonets; through country towns, whose wide
squares and narrow, old-world streets rang with the ordered tramp of
feet, the stamp of horses and rumble of gun-wheels, where ruddy English
faces turned to stare and broad khaki backs swung easily beneath their
many accoutrements. And in street and square and by-street, always and
ever was that murmurous stammer of sound more ominous and threatening,
yet which nobody seemed to heed—not even K., my companion, who puffed
his cigarette and "was glad it had stopped raining."
So, picking our way through streets athrong with British faces, dodging
guns and limbers, wagons and carts of all descriptions, we came out
upon the open road again. And now, there being no surface at all to
speak of, we perforce went slow, and I watched where, just in front,
a string of lorries lumbered heavily along, pitching and rolling very
much like boats in a choppy sea.
Presently we halted to let a column go by, officers a-horse and a-foot
with the long files behind, but all alike splashed and spattered with
mud. Men, these, who carried their rifles anyhow, who tramped along,
rank upon rank, weary men, who showed among them here and there grim
evidence of battle—rain-sodden men with hair that clung to muddy brows
beneath the sloping brims of muddy helmets; men who tramped ankle-deep
in mud and who sang and whistled blithe as birds. So they splashed
wearily through the mud, upborne in their fatigue by that indomitable
spirit that has always made the Briton the fighting man he is.
At second speed we toiled along again behind the lorries who were
making as bad weather of it as ever, when all at once I caught my
breath, hearkening to the far, faint skirling of Highland bagpipes,
and, leaning from the car, saw before us a company of Highlanders,
their mud-splashed knees a-swing together, their khaki kilts swaying
in rhythm, their long bayonets a-twinkle, while down the wind came the
regular tramp of their felt and the wild, frenzied wailing of their
pipes. Soon we were up with them, bronzed, stalwart figures, grim
fighters from muddy spatterdashes to steel helmets, beneath which eyes
turned to stare at us—eyes blue and merry, eyes dark and sombre—as
they swung along to the lilting music of the pipes.
At the rear the stretcher-bearers marched, the rolled-up stretchers
upon their shoulders; but even so, by various dark stains and marks
upon that dingy canvas, I knew that here was a company that had done
and endured much. Close by me was a man whose hairy knee was black with
dried blood—to him I tentatively proffered my cigarette case.
"Wull ye hae one the noo?" I questioned. For a moment he eyed me a
trifle dour and askance, then he smiled (a grave Scots smile).
"Thank ye, I wull that!" said he, and extracted the cigarette with
muddy fingers.
"Ye'll hae a sore leg, I'm thinking!" said I.
"Ou aye," he admitted with the same grave smile, "but it's no sae
muckle as a' that—juist a wee bit skelpit I—"
Our car moved forward, gathered speed, and we bumped and swayed on our
way; the bagpipes shrieked and wailed, grew plaintively soft, and were
drowned and lost in that other sound which was a murmur no longer, but
a rolling, distant thunder, with occasional moments of silence.
"Ah, the guns at last!" said I.
"Yes," nodded K., lighting another cigarette, "I've been listening to
them for the last hour."
Here my friend F., who happened to be the Intelligence Officer in
charge, leaned forward to say:
"I'm afraid we can't get into Beaumont Hamel, the Boches are strafing
it rather, this morning, but we'll go as near as we can get, and then
on to what was La Boiselle. We shall leave the car soon, so better get
into your tin hats." Forthwith I buckled on one of the morions we had
brought for the purpose and very uncomfortable I found it. Having made
it fairly secure, I turned, grinning furtively, to behold K.'s classic
features crowned with his outlandish-seeming headgear, and presently
caught him grinning furtively at mine.
"They're not so heavy as I expected," said I.
"About half a pound," he suggested.
Pulling up at a shell shattered village we left the car and trudged
along a shell-torn road, along a battered and rusty railway line, and
presently struck into a desolate waste intersected by sparse hedgerows,
and with here and there desolate, leafless trees, many of which, in
shattered trunk and broken bough, showed grim traces of what had been;
and ever as we advanced these ugly scars grew more frequent, and we
were continually dodging sullen pools that were the work of bursting
shells. And then it began to rain again.
On we went, splashing through puddles, slipping in mud, and ever as we
went my boots and my uncomfortable helmet grew heavier and heavier,
while in the heaven above, in the earth below and in the air about
us was the quiver and thunder of unseen guns. As we stumbled through
the muddy desolation I beheld wretched hovels wherein khaki-clad
forms moved, and from one of these damp and dismal structures a merry
whistling issued, with hoarse laughter.
On we tramped, through rain and mud, which, like my helmet, seemed to
grow momentarily heavier.
"K.," said I, as he floundered into a shell-hole, "about how heavy did
you say these helmets were?"
"About a pound!" said he, fierce-eyed. "Confound the mud!"
Away to our left and high in air a puff of smoke appeared, a
pearl-grey, fleecy cloud, and as I, unsuspecting, watched it writhe
into fantastic shapes, my ears were smitten with a deafening report,
and instinctively I ducked.
"Shrapnel!" said F., waving his hand in airy introduction. "They're
searching the road yonder I expect—ah, there goes another! Yes,
they're trying the road yonder—but here's the trench—in with you!"
I am free to confess that I entered that trench precipitately—so
hurriedly, in fact, that my helmet fell off, and, as I replaced it, I
was not sorry to see that this trench was very deep and narrow. As we
progressed, very slowly by reason of clinging mud, F. informed us that
this trench had been our old front line before we took Beaumont Hamel;
and I noticed many things, as, clips of cartridges, unexploded bombs,
Lewis gun magazines, parts of a broken machine gun, and various odds
and ends of accoutrements. In some places this trench had fallen in
because of rain and other things and was almost impassable, wherefore,
after much floundering and splashing, F. suggested we should climb out
again, which we did forthwith, very moist and muddy.
And thus at last I looked at that wide stretch of country across which
our men had advanced unshaken and undismayed, through a hell the like
of which the world had never known before; and, as I stood there, I
could almost see those long, advancing waves of khaki-clad figures,
their ranks swept by the fire of countless rifles and machine guns,
pounded by high explosives, blasted by withering shrapnel, lost in the
swirling death-mist of poison-gas—heroic ranks which, rent asunder,
shattered, torn, yet swung steadily on through smoke and flame,
unflinching and unafraid. As if to make the picture more real, came the
thunderous crash of a shell behind us, but this time I forgot to duck.
Far in front of us I saw a huge puff of smoke, and as it thinned out
beheld clouds of earth and broken beams that seemed to hang suspended a
moment ere they fell and vanished. After a moment was another puff of
smoke further to our right, and beyond this another, and again, beyond
this, another.
"A battery of heavies," said F.
Even as he spoke the four puffs burst forth again and upon exactly the
same ground.
At this juncture a head appeared over the parapet behind us and after
some talk with F., came one who tendered us a pair of binoculars, by
whose aid I made out the British new line of trenches which had once
been German. So I stood, dry-mouthed, to watch the burst of those huge
shells exploding upon our British line. Fascinated, I stared until F.'s
hand on my arm aroused me, and returning the glasses with a hazy word
of thanks I followed my companions, though often turning to watch the
shooting which now I thought much too good.
And now we were traversing the great battlefield where, not long since,
so many of our bravest had fallen that Britain might still be Britain.
Even yet, upon its torn and trampled surface I could read something of
the fight—here a broken shoulder belt, there a cartridge-pouch, yonder
a stained and tattered coat, while everywhere lay bombs, English and
German.
"If you want to see La Boiselle properly we must hurry!" said F., and
off he went at the double with K.'s long legs striding beside him, but,
as for me, I must needs turn for one last look where those deadly smoke
puffs came and went with such awful regularity.
The rain had stopped, but it was three damp and mud-spattered wretches
who clambered back into the waiting car.
"K.," said I, as we removed our cumbrous headgear, "about how much do
you suppose these things weigh?"
"Fully a ton!" he answered, jerking his cap over his eyes and
scowlingly accepting a cigarette.
Very soon the shattered village was far behind and we were threading
a devious course between huge steam-tractors, guns, motor-lorries and
more guns. We passed soldiers a-horse and a-foot and long strings of
ambulance cars; to right and left of the road were artillery parks and
great camps, that stretched away into the distance. Here also were vast
numbers of the ubiquitous motor-lorry with many three-wheeled tractors
for the big guns. We sped past hundreds of horses picketed in long
lines; past countless tents smeared crazily in various coloured paints;
past huts little and huts big; past swamps knee-deep in mud where muddy
men were taking down or setting up other tents. On we sped through all
the confused order of a mighty army, until, chancing to raise my eyes
aloft, I beheld a huge balloon, which, as I watched, mounted up and up
into the air.
"One of our sausages!" said F., gloved hand waving. "Plenty of 'em
round here—see, there's another in that cloud, and beyond it, another."
So for awhile I rode with my eyes turned upwards, and thus I presently
saw far ahead many aeroplanes that flew in strange, zig-zag fashion,
now swooping low, now climbing high, now twisting and turning giddily.
"Some of our 'planes under fire!" said F., "you can see the shrapnel
bursting all around 'em—there's the smoke—we call 'em woolly bears.
Won't see any Boche 'planes, though—rather not!"
Amidst all these wonders and marvels our fleet car sped on, jolting and
lurching violently over ruts, pot-holes and the like until we came to
a part of the road where many men were engaged with pick and shovel;
and here, on either side of the highway, I noticed many grim-looking
heaps and mounds—ugly, shapeless dumps, depressing in their very
hideousness. Beside one such unlovely dump our car pulled up, and F.,
gloved finger pointing, announced:
"The Church of La Boiselle. That heap you see yonder was once the
Mairie, and beyond, the schoolhouse. The others were houses and
cottages. Oh, La Boiselle was quite a pretty place once. We get out
here to visit the guns—this way."
Obediently I followed whither he led, nothing speaking, for surely
here was matter beyond words. Leaving the road, we floundered over what
seemed like ash heaps, but which had once been German trenches faced
and reinforced by concrete and steel plates. Many of these last lay
here and there, awfully bent and twisted, but of trenches I saw none
save a few yards here and there half filled with indescribable débris.
It was, indeed, a place of horror—a frightful desolation beyond all
words. Everywhere about us were signs of dreadful death—they came to
one in the very air, in lowering heaven and tortured earth. Far as
the eye could reach the ground was pitted with great shell holes, so
close that they broke into one another and formed horrid pools full of
shapeless things within the slime.
Across this hellish waste I went cautiously by reason of torn and
twisted tangles of German barbed wire, of hand grenades and huge
shells, of broken and rusty iron and steel that once were deadly
machine-guns. As I picked my way among all this flotsam, I turned to
take up a bayonet, slipped in the slime and sank to my waist in a shell
hole—even then I didn't touch bottom, but scrambled out, all grey mud
from waist down—but I had the bayonet.
It was in this woeful state that I shook hands with the Major of
the battery. And as we stood upon that awful waste, he chattered, I
remember, of books. Then, side by side, we came to the battery—four
mighty howitzers, that crashed and roared and shook the very earth with
each discharge, and whose shells roared through the air with the rush
of a dozen express trains.
Following the Major's directing finger, I fixed my gaze some distance
above the muzzle of the nearest gun and, marvel of marvels, beheld
that dire messenger of death and destruction rush forth, soaring, upon
its way, up and up, until it was lost in cloud. Time after time I saw
the huge shells leap sky-wards and vanish on their long journey, and
stood thus lost in wonder, and as I watched I could not but remark on
the speed and dexterity with which the crews handled these monstrous
engines.
"Yes," nodded the Major, "strange thing is that a year ago they
weren't, you know—guns weren't in existence and the men weren't
gunners—clerks an' all that sort of thing, you know—civilians, what?"
"They're pretty good gunners now—judging by effect!" said I, nodding
towards the abomination of desolation that had once been a village.
"Rather!" nodded the Major, cheerily, "used to think it took three long
years to make a gunner once—do it in six short months now! Pretty good
going for old England, what? How about a cup of tea in my dug-out?"
But evening was approaching, and having far to go we had perforce to
refuse his hospitality and bid him a reluctant good-bye.
"Don't forget to take a peep at the mine-craters," said he, and waving
a cheery adieu, vanished into his dug-out.
Ten minutes walk along the road, and before us rose a jagged mount, and
beyond it another, uncanny hills, seared and cracked and sinister, up
whose steep slopes I scrambled and into whose yawning depths I gazed
in awestruck wonder; so deep, so wide and huge of circumference, it
seemed rather the result of some titanic convulsion of nature than the
handiwork of man.
I could imagine the cataclysmic roar of the explosion, the smoke and
flame of the mighty upheaval and war found for me yet another horror
as I turned and descended the precipitous slope. Now, as I went, I
stumbled over a small mound, then halted all at once, for at one end of
this was a very small cross, rudely constructed and painted white, and
tacked to this a strip of lettered tin, bearing a name and number, and
beneath these the words, "One of the best." So I took off my hat and
stood awhile beside that lonely mound of muddy earth ere I went my way.
Slowly our car lurched onward through the waste, and presently on
either side the way I saw other such mounds and crosses, by twos
and threes, by fifties, by hundreds, in long rows beyond count. And
looking around me on this dreary desolation I knew that one day (since
nothing dies) upon this place of horror grass would grow and flowers
bloom again; along this now desolate and deserted road people would
come by the thousand; these humble crosses and mounds of muddy earth
would become to all Britons a holy place where so many of our best and
bravest lie, who, undismayed, have passed through the portals of Death
into the fuller, greater, nobler living.
Full of such thoughts I turned for one last look, and then I saw that
the setting sun had turned each one of these humble little crosses into
things of shining glory.