Market-place.—Present
aspect.—Visit to its stalls.—Norfolk
Marketwomen.—Christmas Market.—Early
History.—Extracts from old
records.—Domestic scene of 13th
century.—Early
Crafts.—Guilds.—Medley of Historical
Facts.—Extract from Diary of Dr. Edward
Browne.—The City in Charles the Second’s
reign.—Duke’s Palace
Gardens.—Manufactures.—Wool.—Worsted.—Printing.—Caxton.—Specimens
of Ancient Newspapers.—Blomefield.
The old city, so rich in antiquarian remains, can boast but
slow progress in modern architectural developments; nor may it
vie with many a younger town in its contrivances for the comfort
and conveniences of those most useful members of
society—the market-folks. No Grainger has arisen, to
rear a monument to his own fame, and of his city’s
prosperity, in the form of a shelter for this important class of
the town and country populace. May be, the picturesque
beauty of the Flemish scene, with its changeful canopy of
“ethereal blue,” or neutral tint, toned down at
whiles to hues of sombre gloom, beneath the heavy
shade of passing storms of hail and thunder, or more
steady-falling rain and snow, has made the philanthropists of
these reforming times conservatives all, on this one point, while
model cottages, baths and washhouses, almshouses for freemen, and
almost every other scheme ingenuity may devise to testify the
care and thought bestowed upon the public weal, are rising up
around. Let the cry of “Protection” once
again be raised, not for the “distressed
agriculturist” salesman, in his handsome corn exchange, but
in favour of the “unprotected females” that sit
unsheltered from the sun or storm, to vend the produce of the
poultry-yards, the dairy-house, and market-garden.
But though no Temple to Commerce of the larder has been
erected—a fact to be deplored in a utilitarian
sense—it can never be denied that the good old seat of
thriving trade can boast as fine a specimen of a genuine old
market-place as may well be found in this day of competition and
rivalry. Its motley assemblage of buildings, ranged round
the open square, of all styles and all ages, jostling against one
another, or here and there huddled together into all sorts of
inconceivable groups of varied and fantastic outline; the young
ones of to-day starting up with bold and saucy front, and verily
squeezing out from among them their quaint, old-fashioned,
gable-ended kinsfolk of older date, or sometimes creeping out, as
it were, from beneath them, content with shewing a modern
face in some lower window, decked with all the new-fangled
conceits of the latest fashions, and allowing their ancestors
quiet resting-place aloft, where to moulder away into decay, are
a chronology of history in themselves. Now and then, the
fretted ironwork of some miniature parade, hanging midway in the
air, and clinging to the perpendicular of masonry above some new
plate-glassed and glittering front, suggests thoughts of marine
villas, moonlight and sea views, and all those pretty poetical
fancies associated with a lodging at some fashionable
watering-place, and one wonders how they ever came to be
transported thither, and for why? They that own them tell
us that they have their use, in the city, where the love of
pageantry is an heir-loom from generations long since passed away
whose birthright was to minister to the gorgeous magnificence of
fraternities and guilds, banquettings and processions, that read
like fairy tales in this sober nineteenth century; and we would
believe in their utility, were it no other than to afford a
bird’s eye view of the busy scenes of homely traffic going
on upon a market day, amongst the accumulated heaps of provisions
for the daily wants of life.
The wants of life! Who amongst us knows the
meaning of the words, the reality they hide? Who
that has numbered among the wants of life, the gold to
purchase luxury or ornament, place or power, the ways and means
to shine and glitter in the world, where men are prized by what
they seem, rather than what they are; the wherewith to pay
the idly accumulated debts, incurred through mean attempts to
cover the rags of poverty, or decent homely garments of honesty,
with tinsel mockeries of wealth’s trappings? Who
amongst these knows aught of the meaning of the wants of
life? Ask him who has known Hunger, has been
face to face with want and starvation, has shared with loved and
loving ones, weak babes, and sick and helpless mothers, the task
of driving these unbidden guests away, has felt the gnawing pangs
of their demon power, while gazing upon plenty, upon the wealth
of food and sustenance displayed before his eyes! Is it not
more marvellous and strange, that such piles as a market displays
should ever be permitted to lie safe within the arrow-shot of
gaunt and wasting poverty, than that the annals of our police
reports should now and then record how poverty and crime
sometimes go hand in hand?
But to look more in detail at the picture offered on a summer
market-day. There to the left sit congregated together the
vendors of the far-famed staple produce of the country
farm-yards, sheltered from the heat by the artificial grove of
variegated umbrellas, serving, or attempting to serve, the double
purpose of protection from the sun in summer, and the rain in winter and summer. The poultry
“pads” and butter-stalls are one. Turkeys, and
geese, and fowls, and sausages, and little round white cheeses,
share the baskets and benches with eggs and pints of
butter, in the land where that commodity is sold by liquid
measure, whose equivalent is somewhere near about 1lb. 3 oz.
There is a legend that one who sits here is the heroine of an
old tale, which goes to the effect that “once upon a
time,” when the inspector came his round to test the
weights of all the measured pints, the old lady was observed
slily to slip a half crown into the end of a certain pint, and
hand it forward to bear the scrutiny; a bystander, who watched
the trick, a moment after laid his finger on the identical pint
and begged to purchase it, resisting all evasion on the part of
the discomfited saleswoman, who, compelled to submit, turned out
eventually the “biter bit.”
Thronging around this neighbourhood, and proffering their
services with most assiduous perseverance, are a host of most
amiable-looking porter women, liveried in white aprons and
sleeves, with a pair of huge peck baskets dangling on their
arms. Tumbling, and bumping, and jostling among them,
drowning their pleadings in a deafening chorus of discordant
cries, come the itinerant venders of small
wares—“lucifers three boxes a penny,”
“cabbage-nets only a penny,” “reels of cotton
two for a penny,” little
dangling bunches of skewers, ranged in progressive order on queer
and mysteriously twisted holders, that seem designed to puzzle
any mechanical skill to get them off again, “only a
penny;” laces, and saucepans, and stationery, and kettles,
thrust into notice as though haberdashers, and tinmen, and
stationers were simultaneously rushing off to the gold diggings,
and disposing of their goods piecemeal by auction. Ere the
next range of stalls may be explored, the pathway is obstructed
by some “literate” specimen of the blind, with an
attendant concourse of listeners eagerly drinking in the titles
of his sheet of hundred songs for a penny.
“There’s a good time coming,”
“All’s lost now,” “My bark is on the
shore,” and “I’m on the Sea,” &c.
&c.; or should any great tragedy or judicial murder have
occurred recently, to furnish him with a still more profitable
stock in trade, such as a “last dying speech and
confession,” or “full, true, and particular
account” of some “shocking and brutal outrage,”
somewhat may be seen and heard of how the minds and tastes of the
ignorant are vitiated, and the morbid cravings of diseased
imaginations fed; and the hawker of this food for the million,
forms living evidence that the eye is not the only member through
whose aid vice may gain entrance to the soul. But there is
little time or opportunity to philosophize amid the din of
importunity that is ringing upon the ears,
“What d’ye luke for? fine guse? butifull
fowill?” And there stands one who claims especial
notice—the merry bacon woman, amid her throng of earnest
customers. There she stands, or rather moves; stillness is
a state to which she must be a total stranger, we could
fancy. “Good day, ma’am.”
“What’s for you, sir?” “Nice pork,
dear? black meat? I’ll wait of ye this
minute, sir.” “Yes, ma’am, beautiful ham;
did you please to want any? Oh, thank you; very well,
another day I shall be proud to wait of
ye.” “No harm in asking,” she adds,
turning apologetically to her more profitable customers.
And so she goes on, ever moving, ever talking, ever cheerful,
civil, and attentive, one never-ending strain of courtesy and
kindness pouring from her lips, while her hands are ever busy
cutting and weighing, and folding up in fine white linen cloths,
her sausages and bacon, and black meat, and still nicer white
juvenile-looking pork, just fresh from the pickle. Probably
she has a home somewhere, but her sphere of usefulness and
theatre of glory must be at the market-stall; she must have been
born and bred a market-woman. Further on, there sits a
melancholy and original old lady, proprietress of a heterogeneous
kind of heap, composed of small quantities of the choicest
produce of various sources of supply—stray joints of pork,
trifling displays of butter, a few eggs, and an occasional
specimen of poultry; but her fame is built upon
her unrivalled “tatoes,” hidden up in pads, and
carefully concealed from the eyes of chance passengers; their
discovery is a mine of wealth to the privileged few, especially
in bad seasons. Dealing forth sparingly, like a miser
counting out his treasures, the queen of murphies compensates for
the reserve that would seem to imply her belief that her
purchasers were begging favours of her, by the involuntary boon
she confers upon the lover of idioms, in her quaint displays of
her county’s dialect. The ordinary greeting of
“How d’ye do?” will be met by the assurance
that she “don’t fare to feel no
matters,” or she “fares to feel right
muddled,” or “no how,” or that she
is scarce fit to be “abroad.” Her
“tatoes” she will recommend as eating like balls of
flour, if cooked enow (a word indiscriminately used to
express quantity and degree). She will occasionally detail
particulars of her market-horse’s
“trickiness” when he
“imitated” to kick on the road, and how she
“gots” him on as well as she could. Her
breakfast jug she will designate a gotch, and many other
like specimens will she afford of the contents of the vocabulary
of East Anglia. A traveller may with little difficulty
fancy he is listening to some native of the distant county Devon;
and, strange to say, the guse, fule, and
enow, and other striking similarities of brogue and
dialect, are not the only features of resemblance these two
counties bear to each other. The
ancient rood screens of the Norfolk churches have many of them
been found exactly to correspond with those found in Devonshire,
and only there. In the celebrated rebellions of Edward the
Sixth’s reign, many remarkable features of resemblance were
observed in the character of the outbreaks at these distant
points,—so much so, as to suggest the idea of secret
communication being kept up between them. Whether both
alike owe their peculiarities to the common parentage of the
Iceni, a tribe of whom have been said to have settled in
Devonshire as well as Pembrokeshire, or they are referable to any
less remote link of connection, antiquarians may perhaps at some
future day make clear. Certain it is, the
“southron” is apt to be easily beguiled into the
belief that he has met a fellow-countryman or woman among the
folks who deem themselves another race than the people of the
“sheeres.”
But we have here wandered far aside in our market trip; next
come in due order the butcher-stalls, taking a higher rank in the
social scale of market society than the humbler pads,
though their wares may not compete with their neighbours for a
world-wide fame—south-down mutton, prime little scot, and
short-horn beef, with the usual attendant displays of
calves’ white heads with staring eyes, and mangled feet
hanging to dismembered legs and shoulders by little strings of
sinew, looking as though they were
carelessly left on by accident, not to affect the weight,
and other mysterious manifestations of the internal anatomy of
oxen and sheep, and queer-looking conglomerations of odds and
ends, transmogrified by some cooking process into very greasy
imitations of brawn, and selling by the name of pork
cheeses,—these make up the attractions of the butcher
department, not over-inviting to look upon, even to those who are
far from objecting to well-disguised appeals to their carnivorous
propensities in the form of savoury dishes.
The lover of beauty will soon permit his eye to wander on and
rest upon the treasures of the market-garden, where it may revel
in a perfect sea of “Bremer” lusciousness;
asparagus—seakale—peas, marafats and
blues—beans, kidneys dwarfs, and windsor—salads and
cresses—radishes in radiating bunches and globular
bunches—cabbages and cauliflowers, that may perplex cooks
and boilers by their magnitude—cucumbers and melons, and
all the pumpkin tribe. Fruit—shining heaps of
cherries—trays of bright glistening currants, with their
little seeds peeping through as “natural” as the gems
in the great Russian cabinet—strawberries and raspberries
on their wooden trays, with the little skimmer-like spades to
shovel them up, and the choice ones packed up in their little
pints, sheltered from the sun by the fresh green leaf tied
over—and sundry and divers wares from foreign parts
lending new features to the home department, since the tariff of
the “people’s friend” came into
operation. But the crowning glory of the picture is the
sovereign of the stall, the sturdy market-gardener, full of
strength and sinew, the evidence of honest healthful labour
meeting its due reward,—a fitting representative of the
great base upon whose soundness rests the column of wealth, and
capitol of rank, that with it form the pillar of our
nation’s social prosperity. He knows not what it is
to seek for work, but rather needs to pluralise himself to
satisfy the demands upon his skill, and time, and taste; and
fairly has he earned his reputation both in horti and
floriculture. His rustic little home, with its thatched
roof, and ivy and clematis twined verandah, lies in the very
midst of a city of gardens almost of his own creation, watched
and tended by him with a care that has rendered them the fairest
line of beauty art ever devised to grace a road-side pathway
through the suburbs of a city; and who ever saw or tasted wares
that could rival the produce of his own little profitable
domain? But the good-humoured smile of conscious
superiority in his profession, that plays upon his features, is
the market-gardener’s peculiar fascination. Talk to
him of chemical manures or rich guano, how he will smile! and
what a tale will he unfold of roses all burnt up, geraniums run
to leaf, polyanthuses converted into cabbages, without the
advantage of being edible; auriculas dying, &c.
“May do somewheres, but not for flower or
market-gardens.” Beyond him, lies spread out a rich
carpet of flowers, grouped by the hands of younger and humbler
ones, whom one might almost call the lay floricultural
professors. Geraniums, and fuchsias, and bright blue
salvias, verbenas of every hue, from deep maroon, through
crimson, up to white; sweet-scented heliotrope, and richly shaded
primroses, that make the tenants of the woods look pale with
envy. A pity it seems to disturb the harmony of colour, so
perfect a parterre does it form, with the back-ground of shrubs
that stand in such rich clusters behind them, all waiting to be
transplanted to new homes. In the very midst of them rises
a mysterious-looking little ark of canvass, resting from its
weekly labour of perambulating the streets and suburbs through
which it has been borne, sedan fashion, by the pair of
unclassical-looking hobbledehoys that own the gay treasures it is
formed to shelter, and whose lips can manage to send forth a
string of nomenclature that may fairly shake the nerves of any
modest purchaser. Sweet simple-looking little floral gems,
they will recommend to notice as Gilea rosea adorata, Clarkia
fimbricata, Coreopsis nigra, speciosa, Colinsea rubra, all hardy
annuals; and with the utmost nonchalance describe some trembling little creeper as Tropœlum
Campatica Fuchsia Carolinæ, Campanula Campatica, and
Lobelia ramosa, all safely meant, we presume, to conceal the
relationship of the owners to the familiar tenants of the cottage
border. A novice must seize in desperation upon some one
that, shorn of its ishii or osum, may chance to be
remembered, lest his fate should resemble that of the fair lady,
who once professed to own in her garden the “aurora
borealis” and “delirium tremens.”
Among the scientific nurseries that clothe almost every
outskirt of the city, may perhaps be found grander exotics, or
more luxuriant varieties of floral beauty; but these fragments of
botanic skill and lore are fair specimens of the inheritance
bequeathed to the sons of the soil by those great master-minds
whose gardens once drew Evelyn from the metropolis upon a visit
to this then pre-eminent seat of wealth and magnificence.
“My Lord’s Gardens,” that skirted the
water-side, whose quadrangle contained a bowling-green, a
wilderness, and garden, with walks of forty feet in breadth
surrounding them, have passed away, a fragment of the wilderness
alone remains to mark the site of the glorious displays of wealth
and fashion once paraded among them; but the name, associated
with the memory of the times, is a star of the first magnitude,
in the galaxy of the city’s firmament of great men.
Sir Thomas Browne, the philosopher, the physician, the
naturalist, the antiquarian, and the botanist, the associate and
friend of the most eminent men that graced the age in which he
lived, and the historian whose works have enriched the literature
of the world, stands first in the long list of names that are
linked with the beauties of the vegetable kingdom; a city that
has sent forth a Lindley, a Hooker, and a Smith, to be professors
in the great world of science, as his followers, has cause,
indeed to honour the memory of him who sowed the first seeds in
the garden, that has reared such giants from its soil.
But there is yet another picture to be viewed of homely
traffic; the Christmas market-day, when the old place and people
seem to be in the zenith of their glory. Each poultry-stall
overflowing with the turkeys, geese, and fowls, that have not
found an exit through the myriad avenues opened for their flight
to every province, town, and city in the land. There they
lie in state, sharing the sovereignty of the season, with
bright-gemmed holly boughs and pearly mistletoe, that deck and
garnish every pad, and stall, and bench, and lie heaped up in
shining stacks of magnitude that may well suggest to the young
novice a question as to how the slow-growing holly and rare
parasite could have been found year after year in such
profusion. Country walks, holly-skirted lanes, and park
enclosures, may tell something of the one; and alas! for
the poetry of the Druids and the oaks, the apple orchards now
claim almost the sole honour of giving shelter to the
other—the ancient deity of the woods; they will scarce
allow the king of the forest a partial share in the tribute
offerings to merry Christmas.
The bustling eve, when midnight surprises the scrambling teems
of “Trotty Vecks,” gathering up the fragments left
from rich folk’s caterings, that they too may have a savour
of something more than the compliments of the season; when the
remnants of the bountiful display that has been hoarded up for
the highest bidders through the busy day, are auctioned off at
the buyer’s own price, and fall thus perchance within the
compass of the weaver’s earnings, then is the hour to see
the spirit of peace and good-will towards men stalking abroad,
and lifting from men’s hearts and faces the load of
weariness and veil of care, transmuting by his magic touch the
poor man’s copper into gold, and giving to his little
stores a widow’s cruise-like power to cheer and comfort
happy living hearts. No one who dwells in the old city
should deem it fruitless toil to wend their way through the old
market-place on Christmas Eve, and take a poet’s lesson
from the scene!
But there are other pictures still to be seen within the
quaint old Elizabethan frame-work of the city’s
market-place than scenes of merchandise, in these days of
monster meetings. Who can forget the human gatherings that
have many a time and oft, within the limits of even
childhood’s memory, been witnessed here, when gable roofs,
and parapets, windows, and balconies, church towers, and
Guildhall leads, have swarmed with living thousands; gay dressed
“totties” and dames, aye, and sober-minded lords of
the creation too! all eager and intent to watch from safe
quarters some common object of attraction that has drawn together
a mighty multitude of the people, with their proverbial love of
sight-seeing, an inheritance bequeathed to them by their
ancestral pageantries. Slight stimulus is needed to send
the heart’s blood of the city through every vein and artery
to this centre, where it pulsates in deep and heavy throbs of
joy, or hope, or anger, as the case may be; true, in these modern
days the common wants and common blessings that have bound the
sympathies of the million into one, cause the spectacle of
tumultuous hate and bitterness, knocking together of heads,
&c, to be a rare manifestation of popular enthusiasm; more
frequently one desire, one feeling animates the body aggregate,
be it to see the mammoth train of a Hughes or Van Amburgh, the
entrée of a royal duke, the failure of a promised
fountain bid to play by a new water company, the more successful
display of fireworks at the same behest, the popping of some
threescore pensioners in honour of some royal
birthday, or the advent of some political election. On each
and all of such occasions, and many more, the filling up of the
frame-work is a picture of life, of concentrated human power,
will, and passion, full of effect; may be, it needs an adequate
cause to give it full strength, but everywhere it is full of
interest, and the good old city’s market-place would not be
fairly chronicled were its monster meetings of sight-seers deemed
unworthy a passing comment. Pageantry has been numbered
among the chartered rights of the citizens, from the days of
“mysteries,” when the itinerant stage, with its
sacred drama provided by the church, was the only theatre known,
through the age of tournaments, the season of royal visits,
Elizabethan processions, and triumphal arches, of guilds, of
Georges and dragons, down to the last relic of the spirit of
olden times—the chairing of its members; and not even the
scant nourishment offered in this nineteenth century, has yet
sufficed to starve and wither the seeds thus sown and fostered in
the very nature of the people.
In a work that professes not to follow out the thread of
history through all its variable windings, or note consecutively
all the beads of truth that have been carved by the hand of time,
and strung upon its surface, but only here and there to pause, as
some gem more glittering than its fellows meets the eye, or some
quaint rude relic of a day gone by lays claim
to a passing curiosity, wonder, or pity, we feel at liberty to
make a kaleidoscope sort of pattern of our gleanings and
notes on the old market-place. Interwoven with its
progress, and associated with its memories, must be almost every
historical reminiscence, peculiarly belonging to an important
municipality, and thriving mart of commerce and manufactures;
from the first simple gatherings in the outer court of the
castle, to the days when trades and crafts, brought over by
Norman intruders, and flourishing under the skilful tutelage of
Flemish refugees, clustered together in groups around the old
croft, the saddlers, the hosiers, the tanners, the mercers, the
parmenters, the goldsmiths, the cutlers, each with their own
row, to the time when staples were fixed, or right of
wholesale dealing granted—when cloth halls witnessed the
measuring and sealing by government inspectors of every
manufactured piece of cloth, to ensure fairness of dealing
between buyer and seller—when sumptuary laws regulated
quantity, quality, and pattern of the dresses of all dutiful and
loyal subjects—down through ages of fluctuating
vicissitudes of prosperity and adversity—tremulous
shakings—and reviving struggles against the tide of
competition that has sunk the first and greatest manufacturing
city our country once could boast, beneath the level of many a
nurseling of yesterday, a mere mushroom in growth and
age—from the era of
ultra-carnivorous diet, when boars, peacocks, venison, and
porpoise, were scattered in plentiful profusion on the boards of
butchers’ stalls, and in the regions of
“Puleteria,”—when the potato, brocoli,
turnip, onion, and radish, were unknown—the tansy, the
rampion, cow cabbage, and salsify, their only substitutes in the
days when vegetarians were not;—when quinces, medlars, rude
grapes, and mulberries, wild raspberries and strawberries,
supplied the place of a modern dessert, with the valuable addenda
of hazel, and walnuts, whose beautiful wood even then was prized
as an article of manufacture for cups and bowls, under the name
of masere—down to the scene of the present day, as
it has been pictured already.
Manifold have been the fleeting shadows that have peopled its
disc, now bright, now dark, its area now traversed by triumphal
arches and gorgeous processions, now serving as a platform for a
gallows, whereon a Roberts and a Barber suffered for their
loyalty to his majesty, Charles the First; in one age witnessing
the rise of an oratory in its very midst, and a chaplain to
minister to spiritual cravings, in the heart of material
abundance; the next echoing to the ruthless hammers of
destructive zealots, sweeping from their path every stone or
carving that bore trace of the finger of the “scarlet
lady.”
But although a consecutive detail of its rise and progress may
not be within the province of our pen, we may
endeavour to trace a few of the leading features of its history
since the era of its first rise into existence as a fishing
hamlet, when the sea washed its shores, and the huts of a few
fishermen, perhaps, were the only habitations scattered over its
surface. Here they dwelt, no doubt, in peaceful security,
when the huge mound, topped with its towering castle, rose up in
their midst, and their sovereigns fixed their dwelling-place
within its strongholds, to be succeeded, after the departure of
the Romans, by the feudal lords or earls of Danish and Saxon
conquerors, in whose time the market-place was the magna crofta
or great croft of the castle. At the gates of the ancient
castles the markets were continually set, following the precedent
of the assemblage of booths that gathered round the gates of the
Roman camps. These, from being at first moveable stalls or
shelters for goods, grew in after-years into towns, boroughs, and
cities, many of them taking their names from the castles or
camps, and were called chesters. The country people
were not allowed to carry provisions into Roman camps; at each
gate was a strong guard, that suffered none to enter the camp
without licence from the commanding officer: this guard consisted
of one cohort, and one troop at least, from which sprung
the modern term of court, or cohort, of
guard. The commanding officer of the guard at the gate had
oversight of the market, punished such as sold by false
weights and measures, brought bad provisions, or were guilty of
any other offence in the market, and arbitrated in all cases of
dispute. The Saxons, those exterminating conquerors, who so
liberally parcelled out their neighbours’ territory into
the famous divisions of the Heptarchy, next figured upon the
scene, and the castellans succeeded the officer of the
guard in the duties of his office, in later times to be fulfilled
by pie-powder courts and clerks of the market. At this
period, markets at the castle gates grew so important as to be
composed of durable houses, as durable at least as wooden
shambles were likely to be; and of such like constructions were
the first outlines of the market-place composed, the
fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops of the present day
being the nearest similitudes that can be found to illustrate
their features.
From this time the history of the market-place becomes
identified with the progress of the borough, its struggles for
growth being somewhat impeded, we fancy, by the tithes and taxes
extorted by barons and bishops, between whom we may fancy the
poor fisherfolks began to “fare rather sadly,”
scarcely knowing what was their own, or if, indeed, they had any
own at all. To sum up their miseries, old chroniclers
record that about this time the sea began to withdraw its arm,
which to them had been a great support, and the
fishermen, who were bound to pay an annual tithe of herrings to
the bishops of the see, found themselves in much the same
plight as the Israelites of old, when doomed to make bricks
without straw—in their case to supply herrings without a
fishery—and were therefore reduced to the unpleasant
necessity of thenceforth purchasing the wherewith to pay the
lasting imposition. Notwithstanding all these impediments
the progress of the borough was rapid; houses and churches sprung
up thick and fast; so that at the time of the survey, in the
reign of the “Confessor,” we find record of
twenty-five parish churches, and one thousand three hundred
burgesses; of sheep-walks, mills, and hides of land, (a hide
being as much as one plough could till in a year,) of taxes, of
honey, and bear dogs.
Churches were owned indiscriminately by bishops, earls, and
burgesses; the materials of which they were constructed, chiefly
wood, though occasionally rough flints and stones cemented by a
durable mortar were substituted; the towers were circular, bricks
were employed for pavements, and bells were used. The
ancients conceived the sound of metal to be an antidote against
evil spirits; and the adoption of bells into the Christian
church, and their consecration, was but a variation of the
practices of the pagans, who at the feasts of Vulcan and Minerva,
consecrated trumpets for religious uses.
Such was the condition of the town and market-place,
when the Norman Conqueror, whose coming produced such mighty
changes in the land, brought over from the continent a host of
foreigners, who settled themselves down in almost every part of
the kingdom, and introduced trades and crafts of every variety,
giving birth to the great manufacturing spirit that has grown to
be so distinguishing a feature of our national greatness.
Among the foreigners who established themselves in this district,
we find the name of Wimer, a name yet prefixed to one of
the great wards or districts of the city—the Wimer
ward. At this period, perhaps the most prominent
characteristic of the secular history of the times, especially in
connection with trade, is the important position held by the
Jews.
The Norman duke had brought with him a great number of this
race of people, and although their religion was despised and
bitterly hated, they monopolized almost every branch of trade,
and so much of the learning of the day, that they took a high
place both in commercial and civil transactions. In this
city they successively had two extensive synagogues and colleges,
where medicine and rabbinical divinity were taught together.
Pharmacy, education, and all monetary transactions of any
importance, seem to have come within their province, their
utility and wealth preserving them, for the
time at least, from anything more than petty persecution.
The history, however, of little St. William, given elsewhere, and
other similar records that have been handed down, betray the
jealousy and ill-will that existed between them and the
Christians, even during the season of their prosperity, when
royalty, as in the time of Rufus, patronized them.
Meantime the city had become a bishopric; a monastery, three
friaries, and a nunnery sprung up in quick succession, betraying
the growth of ecclesiastical power, and the presence of a great
rival to the secular authority claimed by the ministers of civil
justice; itinerant judges had been established for trying great
crimes, such as murder or theft, and coroners had been instituted
to hold inquests upon any persons dying suddenly, or found dead;
either to acquit them of self murder, or seize their goods; the
citizens were also exempted from the judgment of the law by
single combat by Richard I. Among the events of interest
bearing very early date is the royal visit of the first Henry, in
the day when the king was his own tax-gatherer, and when, failing
to receive his dues in lawful coin of the realm, he was wont to
take them in kind, and to tarry until himself and suite had eaten
up the hogs and sheep, and cows and geese, whose addition to his
retinue would have been otherwise very burdensome. So
liberal was the entertainment afforded the
royal visitor here, that his majesty was pleased to confer upon
the citizens many privileges as a mark of gratitude, among which
exemption from such like visitations in future was included.
The next visit of royalty is attributed to Edward the First,
whose generosity was evidenced by the command issued speedily
after his return thither, that the Jews throughout the kingdom
should be charged with unlawfully clipping and adulterating the
coin of the realm, as an excuse for their persecution,
imprisonment, and final extermination. The religious
antipathies of the zealous crusader would not suffice to explain
these atrocities; but the ambition of the warlike monarch seeking
to replenish his exhausted treasury, that he might prosecute
expensive foreign enterprises, gives a more satisfactory clue to
the origin of cruelties, that led to such important confiscations
being made to the crown. In obedience to the royal will,
the beautiful college of the Jews in this city was plundered and
burnt, its coffers emptied into the royal exchequer, and its
tenants banished or imprisoned. An inn, called
“Abraham’s Hall,” was soon after raised in the
immediate neighbourhood, to memorialize the event; but an old
ricketty gable or two, hidden away behind fair modern frontings
of brickwork and stucco, is all that remains of this
monument. St. George in combat with the Dragon, now
figures on the sign board affixed to the inn that occupies one
portion of its site.
It is some credit to the ministers of justice in the city,
that we find upon their records, traces of the efforts made to
bring to punishment some of the actual perpetrators of the
outrages in Jewry, albeit they could perhaps only be deemed
instruments in the hands of higher powers. Extracts from
the “Coroners’ Rolls,” containing accounts of
robberies and street frays in this reign and the preceding, prove
this fact, and afford in addition curious evidence of the state
of society at that period. For the quaint and amusing
details they give, we must render thanks to the learned and
skilled in antiquarian lore, obsolete orthography, black letter
type, &c., but, for whose assistance in rescuing them from
obscurity, and interpreting their meaning, they must to us have
remained veiled in an impenetrable incognita.
Amongst them is the record of an “inquisition made of
the fire raised in Jewry,” and a “precept given to
apprehend all the felons concerned.” Another is so
graphic, that we feel able to see the whole picture it gives at a
glance—the widow sitting beside the bier of her husband,
the sanctity of her sorrow invaded by brute violence, the house
pillaged, and the corpse plundered and burnt in the agonised
wife’s presence. The words of the roll say,
“Katharina, the wife of Stephen Justice, accused Ralph, son of Robert Andrew, the gaoler, William Kirby
Gaunter, William Crede, Walter de Hereham, John, servant of
Nicholas de Ingham, and Nicholas sometime servant of Nicholas de
Sopham, and Nicholas de Gayver, that when she was at peace with
God and the king, in the house of Stephen Justice her husband,
and the Thursday night after the feast of King Edmund, in the
forty-eighth year of the reign of King Henry, the son of King
John (1263), they came in the town of Norwich, in Fybriggate, St.
Clement’s, and broke the oaken gates, and the hooks and the
hinges of iron, with hatchets, bars, wedges, swords, knives, and
maces, and flung them down into the court, and feloniously
entered; that they then broke the pine wood doors of the hall,
and the hinges and iron work of them, and the chains, bolts, and
oaken boards of the windows. Afterwards they entered the
door of the hall chamber towards the south, and robbed that
chamber of two swords, value 3s. 6d., one ivory
handled anlace, value 12d., one iron head piece, value
10d., an iron staff, value 4d.; one cow leather
quirre (cuirass) with iron plates, value half a mark; and one
wambeis (a body garment stuffed with cotton, wool, or tow), and
coming thence into the hall, they burnt the body of her husband,
as it there lay upon a bier, together with a blanket of
‘reins,’ value 3s.; and took away with them a
linen cloth, value 18d. The said Katharina immediately raised hue and cry, from street to street,
from parish to parish, and from house to house, until she came
into the presence of the bailiffs and coroners. They also
stole a lined cloth of the value of 5s., and one hood of
Pers (Persian) with squirrel’s fur, value
10s.”
A writer in the Archæological Journal describes the
houses of this period as possessing only a ground floor, of which
the principal apartment was the aire, aitre, or hall, into which
the principal door opened, and which was the room for cooking,
eating, receiving visitors, and the other ordinary uses of
domestic life. Adjacent to this, was the chamber which was
by day the private apartment and resort of the female portion of
the household, and by night the bed room. Strangers and
visitors generally slept in the hall, beds being made for them on
the floor. A stable was frequently adjacent to the hall,
probably on the side opposite to the chamber or bed-room.
Another memorandum on the rolls, records the deaths of Henry
Turnecurt and Stephen de Walsham, who “were killed in the
parish of St. George, before the gate of the Holy Trinity, St.
Philip and James’ day, in the same year. The coroners
and bailiffs went and made inquisition. Inquisition then
made was set forth in a certain schedule. Afterwards came
master Marc de Bunhale, clerk, and Ralph Knict, with many others,
threatening the coroners to cut them to pieces,
unless the schedule was given up, and then they took Roger the
coroner, and by force led him to his own house, with swords and
axes, until the said Roger took the schedule from his chest; and
then they took him with the schedule to St. Peter of Mancroft
church, and there the aforesaid Ralph tore away the schedule from
the hands of Roger, and bore it away, and before his companions,
in the manner of fools, cut it into small pieces; and with much
ado, Roger the coroner escaped from their hands in great fear and
tremor. The coroners say they cannot make inquisition, by
reason of the imminence of the war.” The disturbances
alluded to were the dissensions going on between the king and
barons.
Another describes an attack of four men, one of them a priest,
upon one man in his shop in the market, where he was
killed. Among many other similar accounts of these troubled
times, stands the description of various felons, who sheltered
themselves within the walls of the sanctuary, a privilege
permitted from the time of Alfred, whose laws granted protection
for three days and nights to any within the walls of a church;
William the Conqueror confirmed and extended the privilege.
In the times of feudal tyranny, this refuge was oftentimes of
considerable advantage to innocent persons falsely accused, but
as frequently was the shelter of crime.
In a case quoted from this authority, the felon
professes to have sought refuge from punishment awaiting
robberies, of which he acknowledges himself guilty. Upon
the church of St. Gregory there yet remains a curious escutcheon,
a part of the knocker, always then placed upon the door of a
church, for the purpose of aiding those who sought refuge in
sanctuary. A curious account of the ceremony of abjuration
of the realm by one who had taken refuge in Durham Cathedral, is
given in the York volume of the Archæological
Institute.
“A man from Wolsingham is committed to
prison for theft. He escapes, and seeks refuge in the
Cathedral. He takes his stand before the shrine of St.
Cuthbert, and begs for a coroner. John Rachet, the coroner
of Chester ward, goes to him, and hears his confession. The
culprit, in the presence of the sacrist, sheriff, under-sheriff,
and others, by a solemn oath renounces the kingdom. He then
strips himself to his shirt, and gives up his clothing to the
sacrist as his fee. The sacrist restores the
clothing—a white cross of wood is put into his hand, and he
is consigned to the under-sheriff, who commits him to the care of
the nearest constable, who hands him over to the next, and he to
the next, in the direction of the coast. The last constable
puts him into a ship, and he bids an eternal farewell to his
country.”
There were usually chambers over the porches of
churches, in which two men slept, for the purpose of being ready
at all hours to admit applicants. In proof of the expense
attending the maintaining of persons in the sanctuary, it is said
that “in 1491, the burgesses in parliament acquainted the
assembly that they had been at great expense in getting an
ordinance of parliament to authorize them in a quiet way to take
one John Estgate out of sanctuary, the said John having entered
the churchyard of St. Simon and St. Jude, and there remained for
a long time past, during which time, the city being compelled to
keep watch on him day and night, lest he should escape, was at
great charge and trouble. The ordinance being passed, John
Pynchamour, one of the burgessess, went to the sanctuary and
asked John Estgate whether he would come out and submit to the
law, or no; and upon his answering he ‘would not,’ he
in a quiet manner went to him, led him to the Guildhall, and
committed him to prison.”
Another entry of an event that transpired during the troubled
reign of Henry III., bears reference to the memorable disputes
between the citizens and the monks of the priory, of which the
Ethelbert gateway, leading into the Cathedral Close, is a
monument; the citizens having had the penance of erecting it,
imposed upon them for their destructive attacks upon the
monastery, a great portion of which, including
parts of the cathedral, they pillaged and burnt. The record
states that “one John Casmus was found slain on the Tuesday
next after the feast of St. Laurence, by William de Brunham,
prior of Norwich, at the gates of St. Trinity, on the eastern
side; the said prior having struck him with a certain
‘fanchone’ on the head, from which blow he instantly
died. The coroners are afraid to make inquisition, for fear
of a felonious assault; a result rendered very probable by the
known temper of the prior, who, by his violent conduct, is said
to have contributed materially to the unhappy
disturbances.”
Long-cherished bitterness and jealousies respecting their
several limits of jurisdiction, had found occasion for outbreak
the preceding week to that mentioned in the record, at the annual
fair, held on Trinity Sunday, before the gates of the cathedral,
on the ground known as Tombland, from having anciently been a
burial place. The servants of the monastery, and the
citizens, had come into collision at some games that were going
on upon the Tuesday, and a violent conflict ensued, which lasted
for a considerable time. The writers of the time are
divided as to the blameable parties; the monks being accused of
aiding and abetting their servants in doing wrong, and
vexing the people; the citizens, in their turn, being
condemned for transgressing the recognized laws which existed
concerning the boundaries of the prior’s jurisdiction.
The animosities never fairly could be said to have
ceased until the general destruction of all monastic power at the
period of the Reformation.
One more curious extract we will make from these
coroner’s rolls, remarkable as being one of the very few
authentic accounts to be met with of a person being restored to
life after execution.
“Walter Eye was condemned in the court of
Norwich, and hung, and appeared dead, but was afterwards
discovered to be alive by William, the son of Thomas Stannard;
and the said Walter was carried in a coffin to the church of St.
George’s, before the gate of St. Trinity, where he
recovered in fifteen days, and then fled from that church to the
church of the Holy Trinity, and there was, until the king upon
his suit pardoned him.”
It was formerly a prevalent idea that felons could only be
suspended for a certain time, but this was not really the case;
so far from it, Hale’s “Pleas of the Crown”
asserts, “that, in case a man condemned to die, come to
life after he is hanged, as the judgment is not executed till he
is dead, he ought to be hung up again.”
Another anecdote, extracted from the books of the corporation,
bearing a more recent date, possesses a double interest, from
being connected with a memorable disturbance, dignified in local
history by the title of Gladman’s Insurrection, and also
from the name and rank of the lady concerned,
who was grand-daughter to Chaucer, the poet, and wife of William
de la Pole, who succeeded to the earldom of Suffolk upon the
death of his brother Michael, a.d.
1415, the second year of the reign of King Henry V.
The only liberty we shall take with the original account is to
slightly abridge it, and render it in modern orthography.
Item. It was so, that Alice, Duchess, that time Countess
of Suffolk, lately in person came to this city, disguised like a
country house-wife. Sir Thomas Tuddenham, and two other
persons, went with her, also disguised; and they, to take their
disports, went out of the city one evening, near night, so
disguised, towards a hovel called Lakenham Wood, to take the air,
and disport themselves, beholding the said city. One Thomas
Ailmer, of Norwich, esteeming in his conceit that the said
duchess and Sir Thomas had been other persons, met them, and
opposed their going out in that wise, and fell at variance with
the said Sir Thomas, so that they fought; whereby the said
duchess was sore afraid; by cause whereof the said duchess and
Sir Thomas took a displeasure against the city, notwithstanding
that the mayor of the city at that time being, arrested Thomas
Ailmer, and held him in prison more than thirty weeks without
bail; to the intent thereby both to chastise Ailmer, and to
appease the displeasure of the said duchess
and Sir Thomas; and also the said mayor arrested and imprisoned
all other persons which the said duchess and Sir Thomas could
understand had in any way given favour or comfort to the said
Ailmer, in making the affray. Notwithstanding which
punishment, the displeasure of the duchess and Sir Thomas was not
appeased. And it is so, moreover, that one John Haydon,
late was recorder of the city, taking of the mayor and citizens a
reasonable fee, as the recorder is accustomed; he, being so
recorded, had interlaced himself with the prior of Norwich, at
that time being in travers with the said mayor and
commonality, and discovered the privity of the evidence of the
said city to the said prior, because whereof the mayor and
commons of the said city discharged the said Haydon of the
condition of recorder; for which Haydon took a displeasure
against the said city.
By malice of these displeasures of the said duchess, Sir
Thomas Tuddenham, and John Haydon, the Duke of Suffolk, then
earl, in his person, upon many suggestions by the said Tuddenham
and Haydon to him made, that the mayor, aldermen, and commonality
aforesaid, should have misgoverned the city, laboured and made to
be taken out of the chancery a commission of over
determiner. And thereupon, at a sessions holden at
Thetford, the Thursday next after the feast of St. Matthew the
Apostle, the said Sir Thomas and John Haydon, finding
in their conceit no manner or matter of truth whereof they might
cause the said mayor and commonality there to be indicted,
imagined thus as ensueth: first, they sperde an inquest,
then taken in a chamber, at one Spilmer’s house; in
which chamber the said T. lodged, and so kept them
sperde.
“And it was so, that one John Gladman, of
Norwich, which was then, and at this hour, is a man of
‘sad’ dispositions, and true and faithful to God and
to the king, of disport, as is and hath been accustomed in any
city or borough through all this realm, on fasting Tuesday made a
disport with his neighbours, having his horse trapped with
tinsel, and otherwise disguising things, crowned as King of
Christmas, in token that all mirth should end with the twelve
months of the year; afore him went each month, disguised after
the season thereof; and Lent clad in white, with
red-herring’s skins, and his horse trapped with oyster
shells after him, in token that sadness and abstinence of mirth
should follow, and an holy time; and so rode in divers streets of
the city, with other people with him disguised, making mirth, and
disport, and plays.
“The said Sir Thomas and John Haydon, among many other
full strange and untrue presentments, made by perjury at the said
inquest, caused the said mayor and commonality, and the said John
Gladman, to be indicted of that, that they should have
imagined to have made a common rising, and have crowned the said
John Gladman as king, with crown, sceptre and diadem, (when they
never meant it), nor such a thing imagined, as in the said
presentiment it showeth more plain, and by that presentiment,
with many other horrible articles therein comprised, so made by
perjury, thay caused the franchise of the said city to be seized
into the king’s hands, to the harm and cost of the said
mayor and commonality.”
And now we take a long stride from the reign of Henry V. to
that of Charles II., omitting the intermediate century that was
marked by the royal visit of the maiden queen, chronicled at
length among the “pageantries;” and passing over the
troubled era of the Commonwealth, the Reformation, and
“Kett’s rebellion,” all of which have found a
place for notice elsewhere, we find ourselves once more in the
smooth waters of peace, with the tide of prosperity at the full
within the walls of the old city; and we ask no pardon for making
copious extracts from the journal that furnished Macaulay with
materials to serve up the rich banquet that lies condensed in the
few lines devoted to this period of the city’s history, in
his unrivalled work. The diary of Dr. Edward Browne gives a
picture of the society and habits of the
citizens in his time, perhaps not to be met with elsewhere.
His father, Sir Thomas Browne, then tenanted the house now known
by the title of the “Star,” and in the winter of
1663–4 was visited by his son Edward, who, during his stay,
made the entries in his journal which we have extracted. At
that time, Henry, afterwards Lord Howard, of Castle Rising,
subsequently Earl of Norwich, and Marshal of England, resided in
the city, at the palace of his brother, Thomas, Duke of Norfolk,
who was an invalid, on the continent, suffering from disease of
the brain.
“Jan. 1st. (1663–4.) I was at
Mr. Howard’s, brother to the Duke of Norfolk, who kept his
Christmas this year at the Duke’s palace in Norwich, so
magnificently that the like hath scarce been seen. They had
dancing every night, and gave entertainments to all that would
come; hee built up a room on purpose to dance in, very
large, and hung with the bravest hangings I ever saw; his
candlesticks, snuffers, tongues, fire-shovel, and
and-irons, were silver; a banquet was given every night after
dancing; and three coaches were employed every afternoon to fetch
ladies, the greatest of which would holde fourteen persons, and
coste five hundred pounde, without the harnesse, which cost six
score more; I have seen of his pictures, which are admirable; he
hath prints and draughts, done by most of the great
masters’ own hands. Stones and jewels,
as onyxes, sardonyxes, jacinths, jaspers, amethysts, &c. more
and better than any prince in Europe. Ringes and seales,
all manner of stones, and limnings beyond compare. These
things were most of them collected by the old Earl of Arundel
(the Duke’s grandfather).
“This Mr. Howard hath lately bought a piece of ground of
Mr. Mingay, in Norwich, by the waterside in Cunisford, which hee
intends for a place of walking and recreation, having made
already walkes round and across it, forty feet in breadth; if the
quadrangle left be spacious enough, he intends the first of them
for a bowling-green, the third for a wildernesse, and the fourth
for a garden. These and the like noble things he
performeth, and yet hath paid 100,000 pounds of his
ancestors’ debts.
“Jan. 6th. I dined at my Aunt Bendish’s, and
made an end of Christmas at the Duke’s palace, with dancing
at night and a great banquet. His gates were opened, and
such a number flocked in, that all the beer they could set out in
the streets could not divert the stream of the multitude.
“Jan. 7th. I opened a dog.
“Jan. 9th. Mr. Osborne sent my father a calf,
whereof I observed the knee joint, and the neat articulation of
the put-bone, which was here very perfect.
“This day Monsieur Buttet, who plays most admirably on the flageolet, bagpipe, and sea-trumpet, a long
three-square instrument, having but one string, came to see
me.
“Jan. 11th. This day, being Mr. Henry
Howard’s birthday, we danced at Mr. Howard’s, till 2
of the clock in the morning.
“Jan. 12th. Cutting up a turkey’s
heart. A monkey hath 36 teeth: 23 molares, 4 canini, and 8
incisores.
“Jan. 13th. This day I met Mr. Howard at my Uncle
Bendish’s, where he taught me to play at
l’hombre, a Spanish game at cards.
“Jan. 21st. I shewed Dr. De Veau about the town; I
supped with him at the Duke’s palace, where he shewed a
powder against agues, which was to be given in white wine, to the
quantity of three grains. He related to me many things of
the Duke of Norfolk, that lives at Padua, non compos
mentis, and of his travailes in France and Italy.
“Jan. 23rd. Don Francisco de Melo came from
London, with Mr. Philip Howard (third grandson of the Earl of
Arundel), to visit his honour, Mr. Henry Howard. I met them
at Mr. Deyes the next day, in Madam Windham’s chamber.
“I boyled the right fore-foot of a monkey, and took out
all the bones, which I keep by me. In a put-bone, the
unfortunate casts are outward, the fortunate inward.
“Jan. 26th. I saw a little child in an
ague, upon which Dr. De Veau was to try his febrifuge powder; but
the ague being but moderate, and in the declension, it was
thought too mean a disease to try the efficacy of his extolled
powder.
“Feb. 2nd. I saw cock-fighting at the White Horse,
in St. Stephen’s.
“Feb. 5th. I went to see a serpent, that a
woman, living in St. Gregory’s church-yard, vomited up, but
she had burnt it before I came.
“Feb. 16th. I went to visit Mr. Edward Ward, an
old man in a fever, where Mrs. Anne Ward gave me my first fee,
10s.
“Feb. 22nd. I set forward for my journey to
London.”
This quaint admixture of scientific research,
pleasure-seeking, and superstitious credulity, blended with
intellectual enquiry, affords a curious picture of the domestic
and professional habits of a physician of the seventeenth
century. The father of the writer, the eminent Dr. Thomas
Browne, received the order of knighthood from his majesty, King
Charles II., on the occasion of his visiting the city in 1671,
when he dined in state at the New Hall (St. Andrew’s); the
same honour was pressed upon the acceptance of the mayor, who,
however, ventured to decline the proffered dignity. In the
reign of James II., we find record of Henry, then Duke of
Norfolk, riding into the market-place at the head of
300 knights, to declare a free parliament, the mayor and sheriffs
meeting him there, and consenting to the act. But the glory
of the palace, once the scene of such regal splendour and
magnificence, was not of long duration. A dispute between
the grandson of the Duke Henry and the mayor of the city,
concerning the entrance of some comedians into the city, playing
their trumpets, &c. on the way to the palace, caused its
owner, Thomas, then Duke, to destroy the greater portion of it,
and leave the remainder untenanted; and among divers
transmutations of property that characterized the era of Queen
Anne, we find the appropriation of its vestiges to the purpose of
a workhouse, when those institutions first sprang into
existence—a fate shared at the same period by the cloisters
of the old Black Friars monastery.
The river, that once reflected the gorgeous displays of wealth
that glittered upon the margin of its waters, in the palace of
the Dukes, now flows darkly and silently on, through crowded
thoroughfares and gloomy wharfs, and staiths; corn and coal
depots, red brick factories, with their tiers of low
window-ranges and tall chimneys, have usurped the place of
banquetting halls and palace gardens; a toll bridge adds silence
to the gloom, by its prohibitory tax on passers-by, a stillness,
oppressive by its sudden contrast to the activity of neighbouring
thoroughfares, pervades the whole region round
about; and the spot that once was the nucleus of wealth, riches,
and grandeur, now seems the very seat and throne of
melancholy.
Coeval with the rise of workhouses, in the reign of Anne, is
another event of local history—the introduction of
street-lighting. An act of parliament of William III.,
confirmed in the 10th of Anne, enacted “that every
householder charged with 2d. a week to the poor, whose
dwelling-house adjoined any streets, market-places, public lanes,
or passages in the city, should every night, yearly, from
Michaelmas to Lady-day, as it should grow dark, hang out, on the
outside of their houses, a candle, or visible and
convenient lights, and continue the same until eleven
o’clock at night, for enlightening the streets, and
convenience of passengers, under penalty of 2s. for every
neglect.” Lamps, at the cost of the community in
general, were soon afterwards substituted, but their shape, and
distance from each other, would seem to have rendered them but
indifferent substitutes for the illuminations that preceded them;
and if memory is faithful to us, in recalling the progenitors of
the gas-lights of the present day, we may form some slight
conception of the pigmy race of ancestors from which they
sprung.
Meantime, during these years of progress and prosperity, while
Time was tracing its finger-marks upon the
walls of men’s houses, and writing its lessons on their
hearts and minds, there stood, in the centre of the old
market-place, a little silent symbol of the religious feeling of
the passing ages,—the market-cross, and oratory within the
little octagonal structure, whose external corners bore upon all
of them the emblem of hope and salvation—the
crucifix. In its earliest days, its oratory was tenanted by
a priest, supported by the alms of the busy market-folks, who
could find means, in the midst of all their worldly callings, to
pay some tribute in time and money to religion. And was it
such a very foolish practice of our ignorant old forefathers,
thus to bring the sanctuary into the very midst of the business
of life?—was it a great proof of childish simplicity, to
seek to sanctify the scenes of merchandize by the presence and
teaching of Christianity? Is it indeed needful that the
elements of our nature, spirit, soul, and body, should be rent
asunder, and fed and nurtured in distinct and separate schools,
until each one of us becomes almost conscious of two separate
existences—the Sabbath-day life, within the church or
meeting walls, and the week-day business life abroad in the
world? Or shall the union be pronounced more beautiful and
consonant with the laws of harmony, that carries the world into
the sanctuary, and desecrates the house of God by the presence of
sordid passions, crusted round the heart by daily exercise in the great marts of commerce, or in the intercourse
of political or even social life, that not the one day’s
rest in seven, spent in listening to some favourite
theologian’s intellectual teachings of doctrinal truths, or
controversial dogmas, can suffice to rub off, to purify, or make
clean? A market-cross and priest may not be the remedies
for this disease of later times, but they were outer symbols of
the reality needed—Christianity, to be carried out into the
every-day actions of the world, mingling with the dealings of man
with man, master and workman, capitalist and consumer,—that
there may no longer exist those monstrous anomalies that are to
be met with in almost every phase of society in this Christian
land, among a people professing to be guided by the light of
“Truth,” to walk according to the law of
“Charity,” and to obey the precept, “Love thy
neighbour as thyself.”
But the busy hands of zealous reformers long since began their
work upon this little outward expression of
“superstition;” the priest disappeared, the
crucifixes fell beneath the murmurs of “true
Protestants,” and the oratory was transferred to the
“masters, and searchers, and sellers of leather;”
but, in process of time, falling to decay, the little monument
was pulled down, and all traces of its existence obliterated from
the scene of its former dominion.
And now a word upon manufactures. The great parent of English looms, and English weavers of wool,
claims it; the city, that has for centuries robed the priesthood
of Christendom in its camlets; that has invented crapes, and
bombazines, and paramattas, to clothe one-half of the world in
the sable “livery of woe;” that has draped the fair
daughters of every clime in the graceful folds of its far-famed
“filover;” that has in later years shod the feet of
no small proportion of the nation’s population; whose every
court and alley echoes the throw of the shuttle and rattle of the
loom; whose every cellar and hovel has its winding frame for
childhood and old age to earn their mite upon; whose garrets pour
forth their pale sickly wool-combers, with faces blanched by the
fumes of charcoal; that has its districts of
“cord-wainers,” and colonies of
“binders;” its hidden timber-yards, where thousands
of square feet are rapidly being transformed into
“vestas” and “lucifers,” and
“silent lights;” and its tall factories, whose
heaped-up stories send down their streams of human working bees,
from the cells of their monster queen, the steam-engine, and the
task of making produce to supply the rich man’s
wants—has, we say, a claim upon us in her character of a
manufacturing place. The venerable city, once the summit of
the pyramid of our nation’s commercial glory, stands no
longer in isolated grandeur, the mistress of trade, but for long
has had to look up at a vast mass of capital and labour, accumulated above her head by the energies and
activities of younger rivals. India has gorged with its raw
material the markets once fed with the wool of home-grown sheep,
and cotton towns have risen up and outgrown the old woollen mart
of the country. Fashion and its fluctuations, machinery and
its progressions, iron and coal in their partial distribution,
have each and all helped to lay the head of the mighty low; but
there is strong vitality left within her—powerful talents
and great resources; she is even now rising from the lethargy
that had crept over her. Would our space permit, how fain
would we trace the workings yet going on in her midst: the
progress of the shearer’s wool from the wool-sack to the
rich brocaded cashmere; through its “combing” with
irons heated over charcoal furnaces, that poison the atmosphere
around, and shorten the lives of the operatives engaged in it,
forsooth, because the foreman of the manufactory has a perquisite
of selling charcoal,—thence to the huge factory with giant
engines, and labyrinths of spinning-wheels; away, again, to the
spider-looking winding-frame, that children and old women may
turn to help to fill the shuttles of the abler workers at the
loom; thence to the dyers, and then to the loom itself, where
manhood, youth, and woman’s feebler strength alike find
exercise and room for labour. How many histories have been
woven into the fabric—what tears or smiles
have cast their light or shade upon the tints,—what notes
of harmony or love, or wailings of sorrow and sickness have
echoed the shuttle’s throw,—how many tales of stern
heart griefs, pining wants, wasting penury, or disease, are
wrapped in the luxurious folds that minister to the comfort and
enjoyment of the unconscious wearer.
But we dare not tarry amid these scenes, richly fraught as
they may be with subject for graphic sketching; we may not pause
to visit the great gatherings in factory chambers, or linger
amongst the home labours of the industrious artisan; can barely
hint at traits of heroism, lives of gentle loving duty going on
amid the rattling noise of looms that trench upon the narrow
limits of the sick bed; deeds of good Samaritanism that grace the
weary weaver’s home, or dwell upon the Christian lessons
they have power to teach. If the anatomy of a manufacturing
city does revolt the senses and sensibilities in the pictures of
suffering and poverty it seldom fails to abound with, there is
yet much beauty in the deep, earnest, truthful poetry to be read
in the page it lays open. Mary Barton is no fiction; scarce
a district in a manufacturing province that could not furnish a
heroine like her; nor need we, perhaps, look to the other side of
the Atlantic, to find the prototype of “Uncle
Tom.”
There is little doubt that woollen manufactures of some kind existed in this neighbourhood from a very
early period. Sheep were here in great abundance, and as
soon as there were ships to send them in, were exported to other
countries from these parts. Doomsday Book mentions numerous
“sheep-walks,” covering many acres of ground; whether
these “walks” comprised such lands as we now term
“meadows or pastures,” is not explained, but most
probably such is the interpretation to be put upon the term, and
not, as at first sight might seem to be implied, that the
sheep had narrow strips of “esplanade,” or promenade,
all to themselves, upon which they marched up and down in
regimental order. About these same sheep it has been said,
in these our times, that there exists strong presumptive evidence
that the fine Spanish “merino” is a lineal descendant
of the family, and that the wool now imported as of foreign
extraction, is literally and truly the growth of the offspring of
respectable English forefathers, some members of whose domestic
circle were honoured by being made presents of to Spanish princes
by the sovereign of England, in the days when the office and
title of shepherd was coveted by nobles in that country.
The hypothesis we pretend not to establish, so “revenons
à nos moutons.”
The preparing of wool was a favourite occupation of the
British ladies of rank; and soon after the settlement of the
Romans, it is recorded by Dionysius Alexandrinus, that “the wool of Britain was often
spun so fine, that it was in a manner comparable to a
spider’s thread.” The mother of Alfred is
described as being skilled in the spinning of wool, and busied in
training her daughters to similar occupations. The advent
of the various workmen who followed in the train of the conqueror
from Normandy, caused fresh energy to be infused into this, as
all other branches of manufactures; but the main stimulus was
given by a colony of Dutch, who, driven from their own country by
inundations in the reign of Henry the First, crossed the channel,
and selecting the convenient promontory of Norfolk, settled
themselves down at a little village called Worsted, about
thirteen miles from Norwich, whence the name of the wool first
spun there by them.
In the reign of Stephen the woollen manufactures were so
flourishing in many large towns, that the merchants petitioned
for power to form themselves into distinct guilds or
corporations,—the earliest development of the principle of
joint stock companies, borrowed by the Normans from the free
cities of Italy, where trade and manufactures had long
flourished, and where this combination of mercantile influence
had been employed by the Roman monarchs as a check upon the
feudal power of the barons. The inconvenience, however,
that attended the monopolies that sprung from this source were
soon manifest; and disturbances were continually
arising, until free trade was in a measure restored. The
sumptuary laws of Edward the Third, and the inducements held out
by him to foreigners to settle in his dominions,—the fixing
of the staples, that obliged all merchants to bring their
wool and woollen cloths for sale to Norwich, forbidding any to
offer such articles in any other part of Norfolk or
Suffolk,—tended materially to the commercial prosperity of
the city; but in the reign of Richard the Second, discontent
spread itself throughout the working population of the kingdom,
and the insurrection of Wat Tyler was followed by an open
rebellion in Suffolk, when 80,000 men marched upon Norwich, and
committed divers acts of devastation and plunder, headed by John
Litester, a dyer. This, united to the jealousies that
existed between the native and foreign artisans, caused a decline
in the local manufactures for some time. In
Elizabeth’s reign they revived, through the invitation
given to the Dutch and Walloons, then fleeing from the
persecutions of the Duke of Alva. By the advice of the Duke
of Norfolk, thirty of these, all experienced workmen, were
invited to attend in Norwich, each bringing with him ten
servants, to be maintained at the expense of the duke.
These speedily multiplied, until their number exceeded five
thousand. No matter of surprise, therefore, is it that the
Old City retains so many quaint traces of Flemish
taste and Flemish architecture, or that strangers, one and all,
should be struck with the peculiarly foreign outline of its
quaint old market-place. Soon after the settlement of these
strangers in the neighbourhood, new articles of manufacture were
introduced; in addition to the “worsteds,”
“saies,” and “stamins,” hitherto the sole
articles of commerce, and the admixture of mohair and silk with
the wool, produced a total change in the quality of the
goods. Bombazine, that staple “mourning garb,”
was the first result of the experiments made in silk and wool
combined. The ladies of Spain were thenceforth supplied
with the material for that indispensable article of their
costume, the mantilla. Camlets, too, were woven for the
religious orders of priests and monks, as also calimancoes,
tabinets, brocaded satins, florettes, and damasks, of which the
legends of our grandmothers, and occasionally their wardrobes,
bear trace; crape, the celebrated Norwich crape, now almost a
forgotten fabric, was of later invention; but its fame is
chronicled in Ministerial mandates during Walpole’s
administration, 1721, when court mourning was ordered to consist
of nothing but that pre-eminent material. Long since, the
paramatta cloth has superseded both bombazine and Norwich crape;
nor must we be unmindful that this superfine invention owes its
origin to the skill and ingenuity of a manufacturer of the same city. Shawls of every variety have held a
prominent place among the manufactures; indeed, may be considered
as nominally the staple produce of the Norwich looms, though in
reality such is not the fact, an infinite variety of materials,
bearing as many new and fashionable titles, being in truth the
result of the labour of its artisans, silk—satins,
brocades, alpaccas, barèges, and many more; and of late
years the shoe manufactory has so vastly increased, that it may
fairly take a place henceforth among the constituents of the
“fame” of the capital of Norfolk. It may not be
out of place here also to give some little sketch of the rise and
progress of that most important of all inventions and arts,
printing, in these particular parts,—more especially as
William Caxton, the first English printer, was one of the agents,
and a principal one, in opening the commerce between this country
and Flanders in 1464, when that port was appointed a staple for
English goods as well as Calais, a measure fraught with immense
advantages to the manufacturing districts of the country, and of
course pre-eminently to this city. When he, the
mercer’s apprentice, first stamped the
“merchants’ mark” upon his master’s
bales, he little thought that by this same process of stamping,
carried forward by the ingenuity of many men into a new art, the
whole aspect of the world’s history would be changed.
The origin of these distinctive “marks,”
still to be seen engraved on brasses, painted in church windows,
and here and there carved on the doors and panels of old houses,
is about as obscure as most of the other customs of those
ages. They were undoubtedly used to distinguish the
property of one merchant from another; and if their owners gave
money towards the building or restoration of churches, their
marks were placed in the windows, in honour of their
liberality. Similar marks are to this day used by some of
the merchants of Oporto and Lisbon, stamped upon their pipes of
wine. Their forms seemed to depend on fancy, but a certain
geometrical precision pervaded all; sometimes they were composed
of a circle with a cross, or a shield with crosses laid over each
other, of angles of every possible direction grouped into a
figure, now and then the figure of a bird or animal added, but
each differing essentially from every other, that it may retain
its distinctive characteristics. Printing, however, though
introduced into this country by Caxton, was for some centuries
seldom, if ever, practised, save in London and the two
universities. To the Dutch and Walloons, who came over at
the invitation of Elizabeth, is ascribed its first introduction
in this city. In 1568, a Dutch metrical version of the
Psalms was issued from the press. No great progress,
however, would seem to have been made during the next century,
but in 1736 was printed anonymously
the “Records of Norwich,” containing the monuments of
the cathedral, the bishops, the plagues, friars, martyrs,
hospitals, &c., in two parts, price three halfpence each; and
in 1738, an “Authentic History of the Ancient City of
Norwich, from its Foundation to its Present State, &c. (the
like not extant), by Thomas Eldridge, T.C.N., printed for the
author in St. Gregory’s ch. yd., where may be had neat
Jamaica rum, fine brandy, Geneva and cordial waters, all sorts of
superfine snuffs and tobaccos at the lowest price!!!”
This work, the author presumes, from its bulk (thirty-two pages),
to be the “completest work ever yet
published.” Alas for the literature of the
day! From this period, however, Norwich kept pace with
other places; a newspaper had been established even earlier, a
quarto foolscap, at a penny a number. Among the
advertisements from this “Gazette” bearing
date July 16, 1709, are these—
“This is to give notice to all persons in
the city, that right over against the three Feathers in St.
Peter’s of Hungate, there is one lately come from London,
who teacheth all sorts of Pastry and Cookery, all sorts of
jellies, creams, and pickles, also all sorts of Collering and
Potting, and to make rich cakes of all sorts, and everything of
that nature. She teaches for a crown down, and a crown when
they are fully learned, that her teaching so cheap may encourage
very many to learn.”
June 5, 1708.
“Mr. Augustine de Clere, of Norwich Thorpe, have now
very good malt for retail as he formerly had; if any of
his customers have a mind to take of him again, they shall be
kindly used with good malt, and as cheap as any body
sell.—You may leave your orders with Mr. John de Clere,
Hot-presser, living right over the Ducking stool, in St.
Martin’s of the palace of Norwich.”
Among the Queries from Correspondents occur the
following—
Norwich Gazette, April
9, 1709.
“Mr. Crossgrove,
You are desired to give an answer to this question, ‘Did
the soul pre-exist in a separate state, before it came into the
body, as many learned men have thought it did; and as that
question in the ninth chapter of St. John’s gospel seems to
insinuate. Your answer to this query will very much oblige
your constant customer, T. R.”
This query is replied to at some length satisfactorily by Mr.
Crossgrove.
This department of the paper is headed “The Accurate
Intelligencer,” and in its columns are sundry other rather
peculiar interrogatories, such as—
“Mr. Crossgrove,
Pray tell me where Moses was buried, and you will very much
oblige your constant customer, B. S.”
Answer.
“Mr. B. S.
He tells you himself that no man knew it, even when he
could not have been long buried; as you may see in the last
chapter of Deuteronomy; from whence, Sir, you may infer, that if
it was a secret so early, ’tis certainly so still.
Your humble servant, H. C.”
Another rich specimen runs—
Lynn, May 18, 1709.
“Mr. Crossgrove,
Did the Apostles use notes when they preached? I have
sent this Query twice before, and if I do not find it answered in
your next paper, I shall conclude you either cannot or durst not
answer it.
Yours unknown, &c.”
Answer
“Sir,
I have a bushel of letters by me that came all to the same
tune with this of yours, viz. You cannot or durst not answer
it; but sometimes they see I dare do it, tho’ I neglect
other letters more pertinent through want of room: I have a dozen
letters come in a week, all post haste for an answer, and seldom
room to insert more than one at a time, so that many must of
necessity lye by. But now for your dreadful puzzling
question, Did the Apostles use notes? and to this I answer
positively No, nor Bibles neither to hide their notes in;
take notice of that; nor had they pulpits to stand in as ever I
heard of, and we may observe from their sermons they took no
texts: and what then? What would you infer from all
this? The Apostles also never studied their sermons, for
they had an extraordinary gift of preaching, as well as of
speaking. But I shall say no more to your designing
question than this—That those divines who read their
sermons know how to improve their time much better than in
getting them like schoolboys by heart; and that a good polite
discourse well read, is more worthy than a Bundle of what comes
uppermost tumbled out Head and Heels.
Yours, H. C.”
Well done, Mr. Crossgrove! say we.
In 1714, a “Courant” was established, small folio
size: at the end of one occurs this notice—
“Note. An Accident
happening, the reader is desired to pardon all literal
errors, as it is not corrected.”
Papers of somewhat later date afford samples almost as
quaint:—Advertisement. “James Hardy acquaints
his friends, that he has lately had a large quantity of
preserves. I shall be very happy to supply any gentleman
with coals.” “Notice is hereby given that on
Thursday and Friday next, being sixth and seventh of June, 1734,
a coach and horses will set out for London, from Mr. Thomas
Bateman’s, St. Giles, and perform the same in three
days. Note, the coach will go either by Newmarket or
Ipswich, as the passengers shall agree.” They
certainly had one advantage over railway travellers of the
present day—that they could choose their own route.
Another specimen runs—“Whereas Mrs. Cooke at the
pastry shop near the three steps has charged Mrs. Havers with
embezzling to the quantity of two yards of padashway, out of her
suit of clothes turned upside down two years since, and made at
first for a much less person; the clothes having been viewed by
several mantua makers, the same appears to be a most malicious
slander,” &c.
Specimens might be multiplied, but these may suffice to place
beside the elaborate and ornate productions of this present year
1853, to see what a century has done in orthography, etymology,
syntax, and prosody.
It must have been rather more than twenty years after
the first establishment of a local newspaper, that the Rev.
Francis Blomefield, the great historian of the county, first
commenced printing his elaborate “Topographical
Essay,” a work of five volumes folio, the materials for
which he is said to have begun to collect when only fifteen years
of age. Many beyond the limits of the locality more
especially intended to profit by this laborious undertaking, may
feel interested in the facts connected with its progress,
contributing so much as they do to give a correct idea of the
difficulties attending the path of an author little more than a
century ago.
Blomefield was rector of the parish of Fersfield, in which
also he was born; in the summer months he was in the habit of
making excursions in search of materials for his work, and to
test the accuracy of information he had gained, by a method he
had adopted, in furtherance of his object, of distributing
“queries,” to be filled up with answers concerning
any historical or antiquarian subjects that may be known to the
parties applied to. In reference to this plan, he says
himself, in a letter to a friend, “It is impossible to tell
you what great helps have come in by my queries: sometimes having
twenty or thirty sheets, besides books, letters, records and
papers for a single hundred;” (alluding to the divisions of
the county into hundreds).
It was after one of his collating rambles that he
finally determined to issue proposals for printing his work; and
meeting with much encouragement, he speedily looked about for a
suitable printing establishment. In a letter to Mr. Chase,
a printer who lived next door to “John o’ all
sorts,” Cockey Lane, Norwich, on the 1st of July, 1733, he
says, “I have endeavoured to procure a set of Saxon types,
but cannot do it; and upon looking over my book find a good
number of Greek inscriptions, some Hebrew words, and some
Gothic. So that I must print it in London; it being
impossible to have those types any where in the country
(!). I wish heartily I could have done it with you; for I
like your terms, and could have been glad to have corrected the
press myself, which I then could easily have done.”
Eventually he decided upon printing the work upon his own
premises, and engaged a good workman, at a salary of £40 a
year, bought a press for £7, and fitted up a printing
office with all the requisite materials. The account in the
papers of the “Archæological Society,” goes on
to say, “At that time, distance and difficulties of
intercourse made any want of punctuality most annoying, and the
plan of printing at home involved the necessity of a great
variety of type and other materials. Meanwhile type
founders, stationers, and engravers, were but too
much given to weary him with delay, or to disgust him with
fraud. Beginning a correspondence with frankness and
civility, he often had to continue it, urging and reiterating
entreaties of attention—alternately coaxing compliance with
‘half a piece’ to drink his health and success to his
work, or with ‘promise of making amends,’ or a
‘fowl at Christmas,’ or rebuking with reluctant
severity, resulting more from devotedness to his object, than
anger or bitterness. A facetious engraver, who was
introduced to him, and invited to his house to assist him, after
remaining there three weeks, agreed for a large portion of the
work, and cut several of the things, all which he ran away
with. Other vexations sprang out of the patronage and
assistance he most valued; but, after many interruptions, the
first edition of a part of the book was brought out in
1736.”
In the midst of his labours, however, he was cut off by that
virulent enemy, the small pox, on the 15th January, 1751, at the
age of forty-six. His work was continued by the Rev.
Charles Parkens, of whom a curious anecdote is related;—its
accuracy we do not pretend to vouch; the tale runs that Mr.
Parkens had a tame magpie, which had access to her master’s
study, and seeing him busily employed in folding and unfolding
the packets that lay before him on his desk, she thought it no
harm to be busy too, until from time to time she flew away
with the whole borough of
Yarmouth. Many of the parcels, it is added, were
recovered, but others irrecoverably lost.
“I know not how the truth may be,
But tell the tale as ’twas told to me.”
With this cursory glance at the work of the great historian of
the district, we close our chapter on the subjects suggested by
the “Old Market-place.” The sketches have been
necessarily superficial, but they afford proof that its
chronicles include a variety of matter and incident that may
interest almost every class of mind.