THE crew, much to its surprise, was paid off at Havana and furnished
with a variety of explanations that did not particularly explain. Most
of the men were bitter about it, but Lansing and Hayward were too
unsophisticated, too new to the ways of the sea, to realize at first
that they had been imposed upon. They had shipped on the wretched little
steamer in New York in a sudden and curiously belated access of
romanticism. For Hayward, who was twenty-three, had worked as an
electrician since he was seventeen, and Lansing, who could scarcely
remember a time when he had not driven a grocer’s wagon, was
twenty-four. The sea had never been a boyish passion with them; they,
indeed, had rarely seen it. As far as their previous relations with it
had been concerned, New York might almost have been situated in the
middle of a Dakota prairie. Their lives had always been city lives, but
not of the kind that finds its way into popular fiction. For, in
expressing themselves, they were not accustomed to employ a
semi-unintelligible jargon of new slang, and from personal experience
they knew almost as little about the Bowery as they knew about the sea.
Their vocabularies, instead of being large and florid, were small and
simple; their lapses from grammar were too usual to be interesting. They
knew a few streets of the immense place exceedingly well, but they were,
for the most part, lower-middle-class, commonplace, entirely respectable
streets. They both had lived at home and worked hard—conscientiously,
one would say, except that in the routine of their existences conscience
played but little part. They had worked hard from habit, from the
realization that they could easily be replaced and from an innate desire
to keep their “jobs.”
It was strange, or perhaps it wasn’t strange (How do I know?), that the
sea had all at once irrelevantly called to them. If they had been fond
of reading, their embarkation might plausibly have been the practical
attempt to make a dream come true. But they rarely read anything except
the larger headlines of one-cent newspapers. The voluminous literature
of adventure in foreign countries, of a wild, free life on the high
seas, was almost as unknown to them as the thing itself. And yet, one
day, they went to sea.
Early in April, an electric car smashed into Lansing’s delivery wagon
and hurt the horse, to say nothing of the wagon itself and its valuable
contents. The fault was neither Lansing’s nor the motorman’s, but the
grocer both discharged Lansing and collected two hundred and fifty
dollars from the street railway company. Out of employment, Lansing saw
something of New York. He had been faithful and careful, and in a dumb,
uncomplaining sort of way he felt aggrieved and rebellious. His long,
aimless walks, during the first few days of his idleness, sometimes
took him to the water’s edge, and one morning he found himself on a Wall
Street wharf, just as a steamer was about to leave for the tropics.
Although he didn’t precisely know what it all meant, the experience was,
somehow, a moving one. There was an army of half-savage negroes—unlike
any negroes he had ever seen—wheeling baggage on trucks and, with
incoherent yelps, filling with freight a coarse net of rope that lifted,
swung, sank, disappeared, and then reappeared limp and hungrily empty.
There were fat, inexplicable women with improbable complexions,
accompanied by lean, sallow, gesticulating men, who darted from their
trunks to the ship and back again in a frenzy of excitement; and there
were smells. Lansing did not know it (he knew very little) but it was
the smells that, vulgarly speaking, “did the business.” There was a kind
of background—a fundamental smell—of pitch, of tar, of resin; but here
and there, protruding from this, as he strolled up and down the long,
inclosed wharf, was the rank, searching smell of unroasted coffee, the
fruity fragrance of pineapples, the pungent acidity of tomatoes, the
heavy sweetness of vanilla. As each odor came to him he inhaled it
deeply, curiously, and for him, somewhat excitedly.
After the vessel had slipped away and disappeared around the corner of
the wharf, Lansing had emerged with the intention of traversing Wall
Street and taking an uptown car, but a young and slightly drunken sailor
from a warship in the harbor had, àpropos of nothing at all, thrown an
arm about his waist and led him to a saloon across the way. They had
together only a glass of beer apiece, but they had sat down to it at a
little table and the sailor had talked.
In the sphere of life to which they both belonged there is a directness
and a frankness in the matter of intercourse that would be impossible
for most persons higher in the social order. Lansing had made many
acquaintances and even a few friends by speaking or being spoken to by
detached young men of his own age standing on street corners. Most of
his acquaintances among girls had been begun in the same way. They had
spoken to him or he had spoken to them—it was immaterial—and if they
found each other congenial they sometimes met again; sometimes they
didn’t. But in any event meeting, talking, parting, involved nothing. It
was merely an incident, often a pleasant one, of the kind the so-called
upper classes know but little. It seemed perfectly natural to Lansing
that the sailor, whom he never had seen before and probably would never
see again, should offer him a glass of beer and tell him of his voyage
around the world, and that he himself should respond with his accident,
his discharge from the grocery—in a word, his “troubles,” as he finally
called them.
“A sailor has no troubles,” the other declared as they got up to go;
and he altogether looked it. After that, Lansing spent most of his time
on the wharves and on Sunday afternoon he took Hayward with him.
Hayward’s experience and education was as limited as his friend’s, but
he was of finer clay. What Lansing only felt, Hayward both felt and
translated into words.
“Gee, look at them turtles!” he would exclaim at a row of the huge,
gasping tortured creatures, lying on their backs and bound to a board by
ropes punched through their bleeding flippers. “They come out of the
water to lay eggs in the sand, and then you run out of the bushes and
turn them over on their backs with a pole. I bet there’s money in
turtles.” Or, “Gosh, what a lot of pineapples! How would you like to go
down there, Lansing, where it’s always summer, and just sit around while
the niggers work, and send millions of pineapples back here to be sold
at fifty cents apiece?”
“Forty-five,” corrected Lansing, who had “delivered” them all his life,
but who, until recently, had impartially given them the same
consideration he had been accustomed to bestow upon a potato. Once they
stood for an hour in front of ten cages full of white and yellow
cockatoos. They were even more disturbing, more convincing than the
incoherent negroes, the excitement of departure, the odor of exotic
fruits.
“Down there you can see them flying around wild,” Hayward meditated
aloud. “Down there!” The words began to mean wonderful, incommunicable
things to both of them. “Down there” was the shimmering, beautiful, hot,
mysterious and seductive end of the earth that a Frenchman is always
able to evoke for an instant, when, in a certain languid, reminiscent
tone, he pronounces the words “là bas.”
So they shipped on a tramp steamer and after a week they had been paid
off at Havana. In Havana they spent an entrancing day and evening
(Hayward bought an imitation diamond brooch at a place on Obispo street
where the revolving electric lights in the window elicited the last
glitter), but the next day was a good deal of a bore. They had seen the
town, there was no point in seeing it over again, and they were unused
to idleness. Both of them would have jumped at the opportunity of
returning to New York, but as no opportunity of doing so presented
itself neither of them had been obliged to admit it. On the third day,
however, they did move on to Vera Cruz. To Hayward, Vera Cruz was a name
he had heard (Lansing had never even heard it), but had he been asked
what country it was in he could not have told. He had an idea that it
was near New Orleans and Galveston. In another week they were
there—paid off again and turned loose in the Plaza.
Again they spent a notable day. They wandered about the streets, they
went to a wedding in a church, they marveled at the unmolested buzzards
filching garbage from the open drains along the curbstones, they walked
at sunset to the end of the long breakwater and watched the fishermen
come in with their gorgeous catch of redsnapper. In the evening they
went to a moving-picture show where they saw a realistic bull fight and
a manufactured American train robbery. (This last gave them their first
twinge of homesickness; the Pullman cars and the passengers looked so
natural.) When it was over, they again sought the Plaza, where, in the
sultry air, a compact mass of people was slowly forcing its way around
and around to the music of an enormous band high above them among the
trees in the center. They slept at an inexpensive lodging house to which
they had been taken by one of the stokers.
But the next day was very like the second day at Havana, except that the
possibilities of Vera Cruz seemed to be fewer. They could not walk in
any direction without soon coming to the water or to a hot and dreary
stretch of sand, and in their unconsciously blasé New York fashion they
had become, by the second day, hardened to ragged Indians, enormous
straw hats and scarlet sarapes. They sat on a shady bench in the Plaza
and discussed an immediate return to New York. Lansing was for going
overland; he had a hazy idea that they were near the border, and he was
amazed and troubled for a moment when the stoker, whom they several
times met again, laughed and told them that the border was a half a week
away in a train. This, of course, they knew they could not afford, and
they decided to work their way back, as they had come, on a steamer.
After that they spent most of their time on the docks, or in front of
the hotels and cafés near them, waylaying skippers and mates. But places
on ships bound for New York were apparently not to be had for the
asking. The men to whom they applied were invariably curt and definite
when they weren’t, as sometimes happened, brutally abusive. This was
annoying although it was also, now and then, amusing. They, as yet, had
not begun to regard matters in the light of a “situation,” for they
still had a little money. At this period of their ebbing fortunes it
seemed to them that they were making a sort of humiliating concession
when they ceased to specify New York as their destination, and resolved
to sail on any ship bound for any American port. But here, again, they
were met with the same irritated outbursts, or brief, cold denials.
They did not know it, because outside of the little ruts in which they
had always moved back and forth, they knew nothing, but Mexico, in
winter, is one of the great goals of the American tramp. Thousands of
them, in perpetually following at the heels of summer, drift across the
border and gradually wander from Laredo to San Luis Potosi, to the City
of Mexico, to Tampico and to Vera Cruz. They approach one in the Plaza,
in the Alameda, at the doors of hotels and theaters and restaurants,
and, with an always interesting fiction, extract twenty-five cents from
one in the name of patriotism. When the spring comes and it is once more
warm at home, they haunt the seaports, endeavoring to return by water.
For short-handed ships at Vera Cruz in April and May there is an
embarrassment of choice—a glut. Without in the least suspecting it,
Hayward and Lansing had, in the eyes of the world, become tramps,
seeking a return passage.
The heat had begun to be intense and the invariable refusal of their
services was discouraging, but far more so were the interminable
mornings and afternoons and evenings when, for the time being, they
gave up their quest and sat on a bench in the Plaza, or, at sunset,
strolled down to the breakwater for the redsnappers and the evening
breeze. They had left home together and they stayed together as a matter
of course, for they did not know anyone else, but they no longer had
anything in particular to say to each other. For the most part they were
silent and listless. They spoke only when something occurred to them
relevant to what, at last, had begun to strike them as their
“situation.”
“It’ll save money if we have one room instead of two, and sleep in the
same bed,” Hayward declared one night, after a day in which they had
scarcely spoken at all.
“If we don’t get up so early—What’s the use anyhow?—We won’t have to
pay for breakfast. Two meals is enough if you’re asleep,” suggested
Lansing a day or so later. And as long as they had money they spent it
only for their bed and their two daily meals. Then came the inevitable
day when they no longer had money, when they realized that the few
cents they were spending for their supper were the last. It was
disagreeable and they had begun to hate Vera Cruz—the monotony of it,
the enforced idleness, the blistering heat, the rumor (they heard it
from some English sailors on the dock) of yellow fever, and their
inability to leave it all behind them. But although they were alarmed
they were not yet panic-stricken. They each had a dress-suit case, an
extra suit of clothes, an extra pair of shoes, some shirts and
underclothes, a hat as well as a cap, three razors and a cheap watch.
The watch went first. They didn’t need a watch. When they wished to know
the time they could glance up from their bench at the clock on the tower
of the “municipal palace.” After this they parted on two successive days
with the dress-suit cases, then the hats, the clothes and shoes and
shirts and underclothes, one by one. The disposal of two of the razors
gave them for forty-eight hours almost a sense of opulence. Lansing did
not know there was a third razor and Hayward did not tell him of it.
Hayward was an innately neat person, and at the Y. M. C. A., to which he
belonged in New York, he had grown to look upon free soap and unending
hot and cold shower-baths in a light that was spiritual as well as
physical. He was good-looking and he knew it. The thought of becoming an
unshaven thing was abhorrent to him. Starvation, just then, he felt he
could face, but the prospect of a week’s beard revolted him. So he
twisted the razor into a piece of newspaper and secreted it in his
pocket. As long as he and Lansing were together he knew he would not be
able to shave; he could not confess to the possession of anything so
convertible into money without immediately converting it. But the
sensation of guilt was at first dispelled by an anticipatory thrill at
the thought of the day when he could once more look clean and fresh and
pink under his sunburn. He did not work it out in words, but the razor
was to him a tangible symbol of self-respect, and he clung to it,
although it would have bought them both the food they had begun to
need.
“We’ve got to beat it. We’ve got to beat it right away,” he said one
morning, when they awoke to the prospect of a foodless day. “They don’t
want us on the ships, but they’ll have to take us anyhow. We’ll sneak on
board and hide. After they get started they’ll have to keep us. They
can’t throw us overboard, and we’ll work. Gee, how I want to work!”
That day they ate nothing, but in the evening they marvelously succeeded
in smuggling themselves on a steamer bound for New Orleans, and in the
prospect of getting away they forgot that they were hungry. One of the
crew, with whom they struck up an acquaintance on the dock, seemed
impressed by the sincerity with which they swore they would pay him if
he would make it possible for them to return to where they could once
more work. He agreed to help them conditionally; that is, he would get
them on board and stow them away, if he could do it without too much
risk to himself. The attendant conditions had to be just right;
sometimes it was easy enough and sometimes it couldn’t be done at all.
In their case the right conditions were unexpectedly furnished in the
fraction of a second that it takes a cable to snap and drop a large
piece of locomotive from the main deck on a dozen barrels of apples in
the hold below. In the uproar that followed and continued for five or
six minutes, the only cool and competent person was the new friend of
Hayward and Lansing. He had been waiting for something of the kind to
happen, and he took instant advantage of it. While everyone else was
screaming Spanish oaths and peering into the hatchway at the ruins, he
hustled the two on board and hid them. An hour and a half later,
Hayward, dazed and suffocated, was dragged out by the feet and kicked
down the gang plank. Lansing did not reappear. From the dock, Hayward
watched the vessel become first a black speck and then a suggestion of
low-lying smoke in the dusk.
He was all at once horribly alone and lonely, but it did not occur to
him to feel resentful. Lansing’s luck had been good; his own had been
bad. That was all there was to it. He was glad someone had been lucky.
That night he went back to the lodging house and slept in the bed—it
was the last bed he ever slept in—and as he had no money, he in the
morning gave the patron his razor.
Then began for him an existence, the absolute hopelessness of which
appalled and crushed him. At first a ship to New York had seemed to him
the only solution of his predicament; then the idea of a ship to
anywhere had become a vision of paradise; now he saw that ships were an
impossibility. As the season advanced the officers became more and more
vigilant. A shabby, unshaven young man could not go within speaking
distance of a ship. He made the rounds of the hotels and asked for
work—any kind of work—but there was none. He tried to get employment
as a laborer on the dock, but the foreman, who spoke English, laughed
and asked him why he wished to commit suicide.
“An American keeping one of us out of a job would be stabbed in an
hour,” he declared, and refused to hire him. He managed for a time to
keep alive, because one day he remembered that on the little finger of
his left hand he had a gold ring. For years it had been so much a part
of him that it had not occurred to him to sell it. The discovery of it
came as a kind of revelation and made it possible for him to eat,
sparingly, for two days. Then a brisk little American woman, in a white
duck suit, approached him in the Plaza and gave him twenty-five centavos
for delivering hand bills. She was a fortune teller—a “seeress,” and
had recently opened a “Studio of the Occult” in the Hotel Segurança,
across the way. She seemed like a kind, capable little creature and
once, when he had not eaten for two days, he went to the hotel and asked
for her; but as he was unshaven and dazed and rather vague, they assumed
him to be a drunken tramp and drove him away. Then he made the
acquaintance, in the Plaza, of an utterly unreal person of no particular
age, who dragged out of the hotel and in again every afternoon for half
an hour or so, with the aid of a cane. His face was bloated and
discolored, but his body was no more than a semi-upright arrangement of
bones. Hayward at first thought he was an invalid in the last stages,
then felt sure he was a drunkard, and, finally, it came to him that the
man was a slave to some drug. He would occasionally give Hayward the
twenty-five centavos on which he could exist for several days, and then,
after a long silence on a bench, petulantly demand: “What do you do with
all the money I give you? The day before yesterday I gave you three
hundred dollars. I’m afraid you’re extravagant.” In one of his more
lucid intervals, he suggested the American consul, and Hayward went to
the consulate.
“I don’t want to beg, I want to work,” he said when the consul wheeled
from a desk and impatiently eyed him.
“Oh, I hear that twenty times a day. Get out and don’t come back,”
exclaimed the consul wearily. He “got out” and he did not go back.
Something in the man’s dumpy, coarse, dirty-fingernailed personality
told him it would be useless. Then he tried to steal a ride on a
freight train bound for the City of Mexico, and was discovered and
thrown out at the second station, twelve miles away. It merely meant his
walking back to Vera Cruz in the blistering heat over the endless sand
dunes and past the fever-stricken marshes where the mosquitoes devoured
him. He spent as much as he dared of that night on a bench in the Plaza,
but for fear the policemen might begin to think he was sitting too long
in one place, he, from time to time, aroused himself and walked down to
the docks, or to the two railway stations at opposite ends of the town.
The humiliation of it was worse, somehow, than his hunger and his
fatigue. The next night, however, the need of sleep was overpowering,
and he lay down on the beach at the edge of the town. In spite of the
ants that swarmed up under his clothes and stung him from his neck to
his ankles, he slept the sleep of exhaustion. But to sleep on the beach
at Vera Cruz is against the law, and at three o’clock in the morning he
was arrested and thrown into a vile and crowded room under the tower,
whose clock of late had struck for him so many aimless, hopeless hours.
In the morning the judge dismissed him with the reminder (a negro from
Havana translated the ultimatum) that a second offense would mean thirty
days.
Then followed a horrible week—a last nightmare. He heard from a
trainman that there was work at the machine shops of Casa Blanca, forty
miles away, and, in the incredible heat, he walked there, and when he
found the rumor was untrue, he walked back again. On the way, he lived
on poisonous water and a yellow nut that looked like dates and grew on
scrubby palm trees by the roadside. He did not know how long it had
taken him to make the journey. When he once more reached the inevitable
Plaza, he was dizzy with hunger, and as he thought he was going to die,
he reeled over to where the world was dining under the arcade on the
sidewalk. There were fifteen or twenty tables, and after passing them
all he picked out one where five Americans, three men and two women,
had finished eating and were lolling back in their chairs, waiting for
their plates of half-consumed meat to be removed.
“I’m not a beggar,” he began hurriedly, taking off his hat. “I’m not
asking you for money, but I haven’t had anything to eat to-day. Please
let me have some of what you’ve left before the waiter takes it away.”
They might have given it to him, and then again they might not have. He
never knew. The waiter came back just then and authoritatively slapped
him away with a soiled napkin.
“What pretty hair he had,” one of the women reflected. “It grows back
from his forehead in a kind of proud way. Of course he’s a fake.”
“I didn’t notice his hair, but he had perfect teeth,” said the other.
“This country’s just full of tramps.”
Late that night, when a young man skeptically gave him a Mexican dollar
he wished to get rid of, as he was sailing for New York in the morning,
Hayward suddenly burst into tears and, with his head on the back of the
bench, sobbed for half an hour. He lived on the dollar for five days. In
the meantime, the drug fiend died, and the seeress departed for the City
of Mexico.
Hayward had never read “Les Misérables,” but on the sixth day after the
young man had given him the dollar, he remembered that on one of his
teeth was a gold crown, and, without success, he asked a dentist to pull
and buy it. He had nothing to eat that day, and at night the desire to
lie down and sleep instead of hypocritically walking about as if he were
going somewhere became irresistible. So he went again to the beach and
lay down among the ants, and in the morning a policeman scared away the
buzzards that had already begun to hop about him and crane their
hideously naked necks. The American consul, greatly bored (the heat was
frightful), officially glanced at him and then they dumped him into a
hole with an Indian who had been stabbed in a drunken row the night
before.