On April 30 we landed at Liverpool, and I began to
make acquaintance with the wonderful and unknown
Old World, which I had left when a child of eleven.
Everything seemed new and striking. The substantial
character of Liverpool, the ‘finished look’
of the surrounding country, the extraordinary character
of the mining district—all awakened keen
interest. My poor cousin being ill with rheumatism,
however, we journeyed on at once to his home
at Portway Hall, near Dudley. A fortnight was
spent in this pleasant home, which, though in the
centre of the ‘Black Country,’ was surrounded by
gardens where the flowers were fresh and sweet, the
trees in beautiful leaf, whilst the cuckoo saluted us
in the morning and the nightingales at night. I
gained a glimpse of the lovely English country, and
spent a memorable time in examining the novel
surroundings of the great mining district of England.
The following letters are descriptive of a young
student’s impressions on revisiting her native land
more than a generation ago.
Portway: May 2, 1849.
Thanks be to Heaven, I am on land once more, and
never do I wish again to experience that hideous nightmare—a
voyage across the ocean. We had the warmest
welcome at my cousin’s pleasant home.... I went
one afternoon to see the casting—that is, when the melted
iron, like a river of fire, flows into the moulds which
shape it. The Russel Hall Works are close by the town
of Dudley. There is a wide extent of smoky country,
with many little groups of machinery and brick buildings,
each constituting or rather surrounding a pit; many
mounds of glowing coal turning into coke; piles of ironstone
being burned previous to the smelting; the houses
of the managers in various directions, the office at the
entrance; and immediately in front the two great blast-furnaces,
which burn incessantly day and night, making
many thousands of tons a year. Very few workmen
were to be seen, but underground a whole army of them
were hard at work. The casting was very curious. Twice
a day the melted iron is drawn off from the bottom of the
great brick towers they call furnaces. Strong men with
faces as black and scorched as a coal were busy, armed
with iron poles, guiding the sea of fire that rushed out
into the moulds that covered a great extent of ground,
drawing out the white-hot masses of cinders and dirt,
and splashing cold water over the front of the furnace to
enable them to stand there. We remained at the farther
end, but the heat was so great that we had to cover our
faces. Suddenly, with a loud noise, the flames burst out
from the furnaces, ascending to the very top, immense
volumes of black smoke rolled over our heads, and
the rushing noise grew louder and louder. I thought
some accident had occurred, and looked out for the
safest retreat, when I found it was only the clearing of
the furnaces by sending a powerful blast through them,
which was always practised after a casting. Within
a square of twelve miles one-sixth of the iron used in
the world is said to be made.... I paid a visit to
Dudley Castle, having a great curiosity to see a veritable
old castle, a ruined castle; and I explored every corner,
looked up the broad chimneys, and peeped out of the
stone window frames and loopholes with a feeling of
true antiquarian enthusiasm. We sat down on a stone
bench at the foot of the keep, which is very old, and on
a little hill on the western side of the courtyard; there
we tried to revive the scene as it may have looked
hundreds of years ago, when armed men were bustling
about the court, and visions of fair ladies gleaming from
the upper windows and now ruined terraces. The
castle crowns a wooded hill, commanding the town and
level country for many miles; the remains of a double
wall with a moat between still surround the castle. As
I stood by those strong walls and looked down on the
wide fields below, I began to imagine how grandly an
army would approach, and how noble a defence the
castle would make, till I longed to revive the ancient
conflicts, and almost frightened my companions by my
martial demonstrations and visions of grim warriors
peeping through the iron-barred windows. But the
illusion could not last long; the country is covered with
smoke and coal-pits, the wallflower is smiling on the
ruins of the old castle, and instead of subterranean
dungeons and dark passages the hill is excavated for
limestone; and these artificial caverns of enormous
extent, with a canal winding through them and echoing to
the voices of the workmen, form one of the most curious
features of the place, and show how the same energy and
power are still at work, though in a very different direction.
We drove home through the little town of Dudley, which
presented a most curious spectacle, for it was market
day, and the workmen from all the country round, having
received their wages, were come in with their wives and
children to make their weekly purchases. The streets
were crammed with people, and our carriage made its
way through a living mass that hardly opened to let it
through. I examined the people, as I have constantly
done since I entered the country, with great curiosity.
I could not see one handsome face in the whole
multitude—indeed, the English appear to me a very
common-looking people—but neither was I struck by the
misery I expected to see. In Liverpool I had peered
into all the back alleys and odd corners I could
find; I have done the same in Dudley. There is great
cleanliness observed everywhere, that compares most
favourably with American cities, and the inhabitants of
those districts, though miserable, of course, according to a
true standard of human life, were neither more numerous
nor more wretched than I have been accustomed to see
in America. I have very rarely seen a beggar, and in no
instance one that has particularly excited my compassion.
This district is one of the most thickly peopled in
England, and certainly presents an average view of the
mining districts, and the poor labourers seem far more
comfortable and intelligent than I had supposed. The
manufacturing districts, I have no doubt, would present
a different spectacle. I have had no opportunity of
judging them. I have just learned to my great satisfaction
that Mr. Charles Plevins, an old friend of my
cousin, is going to London for a few days, and will escort
me there and remain during my stay. I can hardly tell
you what a relief this is, for the idea of going to that
great city an entire stranger, and wandering about it
utterly alone, was a most desolate, oppressive thought,
and entirely destroyed all the pleasure of the anticipation,
though I assumed a very independent tone in speaking of
my journey when I found it was utterly impossible for
cousin to accompany me. He is an old friend of cousin’s,
though young—only twenty-five—and there is an air of
youth and immaturity about all his opinions and actions;
but his spirit is so beautiful that you have only to see
in order to love it, so pure and gentle, so true and genial.
In my opinion he belongs to a class of young Englishmen
that I find is large and constantly increasing. Cousin
S. is one of them. They are reformers in spirit, but not
destroyers; they have no clear immediate plan of reform,
and so earnestly maintain the present system until they
find a better one; but they are all the time seeking for
truth, and longing most earnestly to realise that grand
future in which they all believe. Fichte is one of their
favourite teachers; Carlyle, Emerson, Channing, all we
have known and learned from in the past, they worship
now; but they have yet to study Fourier and Swedenborg
before they can reach that strong hope and clear insight
which will make their working strong, happy, and practically
efficient. Now, there is too much of metaphysical
abstraction in their thoughts, their religious faith is not
a glorious reality, and in the case of our friend Charles,
he despises the material world too much, and seeks to
subdue the body and purify the spirit by privations which
proceed from the noblest motive but a mistaken faith.
I have a curious interest in seeing and hearing him;
it revives so completely my earlier life, when I thought
as he does now, and strove for the same ends by the
same means. My medical effort won his admiration
before I arrived, and since I came here he has done me
every little service in his power. His family is an old
and highly respected one in Birmingham, and when he
found I wished to see something of medicine in the city
he used his influence to arrange a useful day for me.
Accordingly, the day before yesterday I went in with
him to Birmingham, having received invitations from
several physicians. We spent the day in visiting the
various institutions together, and as it was my first introduction
to the English medical world, and as I consider it
a good omen, I must describe our doings particularly.
Mr. Parker, surgeon to the Queen’s Hospital, had
some difficulty in believing that it was not an ideal being
that was spoken of; but when he found I was really and
truly a living woman he sent me an invitation to witness
the amputation he was going to perform, and promised
to show me all the arrangements of the institution,
sending also a note of admission to the college and
museum. Dr. Evans, a distinguished physician, invited
me to the General Hospital, the largest and oldest one,
and expressed much sympathy in my undertaking. Dr.
McKay, of the Lying-in Hospital, thought that God and
Nature had indicated the unfitness of women for such a
pursuit as I had chosen, but still said he would be very
happy to show the lady all he could. All the students
were on the qui vive to see the lady surgeon, and as we
approached the building I saw them peeping through
doors and windows. Mr. Parker, a fat, rosy-faced John
Bull, received me very politely, introduced me to some
M.D.’s who had come to see the sight, showed me
the arrangements of the hospital, which is young and
not particularly interesting, and then took me to the
operating-room. It was crammed with students, and as
fresh ones arrived they would peep about, whisper to
their neighbours, and then work their way to a place
where they could see me. It was just a repetition of old
scenes; a few minutes’ curiosity, and then all went on as
usual. The students presented the same mixture of faces
as our American ones, wore rather better coats, and
seemed to be quicker in their movements. I noted
nothing peculiar in the operation, which was skilfully
performed, without chloroform, which Mr. Parker disliked.
Before leaving, he offered me a letter to the
famous Roux of Paris.
At the General Hospital, established sixty years,
Dr. Heslop received me with the utmost deference,
showed me every ward, male and female, pointed out
every case of note, let me examine it, and detailed the
treatment, particularly one operation for subclavian
aneurism, which was so remarkable that they were going
to publish the case. Dr. Percy, of Birmingham, a particular
friend of S., has promised to meet me in London,
and to furnish me with all the necessary introduction to
give me an insight into the medical world of the great
metropolis. So I look forward now with great hope to a
short but delightful visit, and leave for London next
Saturday, the 12th, to await my passports, which I shall
probably receive with letters on the 16th, and then off
again for the land of dancing and wooden shoes. I
heard the cuckoo this morning; what a soft human
sound it is! Last night the nightingales were singing
sweetly in the twilight. Our garden is full of lovely
English flowers; the primrose and cowslip, laurustinea,
and many others make our garden beautiful, though the
weather is a most cold, gloomy nurse to the little darlings.
May 17.—We left Portway yesterday afternoon. I
parted from our friends with great regret; we were
getting used to one another; a home feeling was growing
up there to me, and so it was time to be off. We arrived
late in London, so I could only remark the many handsome
houses in gardens that marked its environs, the
fine and spacious orderly railway station, the wide streets
and gay shops. This morning, after seeing Dr. Percy,
Cousin S.’s friend, who has promised to give me the
necessary introductions to the hospitals to-morrow, we
walked about five miles through the city before reaching
Mrs. X.’s house in Devonshire Street. During our walk
we passed through many handsome squares with monuments
and public buildings, not an isolated one, as with
us, but row after row of grand pillared edifices, whole
streets of palaces, substantial, built of freestone, but all
rendered dingy by smoke, which permeates the atmosphere
and penetrates everywhere. The most venerable
pile of Westminster Abbey is crumbling with age; the
cathedral service was being chanted when we entered;
the central space was filled with people. The aisles are
in the form of a cross, bordered by tall pillars rising lofty
and plain to support the long vistas of arches. The
spaces are filled up by a wilderness of monuments, a
subdued light pouring in, a cool, stony atmosphere filling
the cathedral. It is a noble old building, and has impressed
me more than anything I’ve seen. From Westminster
Bridge I saw the new Houses of Parliament—an
immense pile, the ornaments too delicate for its size.
The poor little river was covered with boats, and the
bridge with people enjoying the Sunday; but London was
much quieter than I supposed it would be. I noticed
but one ‘confectionery store’ partly open; the day seemed
to be very strictly observed. We walked through Regent
Street, and through endless rows of handsome houses
constituting the ‘West End,’ to Mrs. X.’s. We were
shown in by a footman in crimson plush breeches, white
stockings, and claret-coloured coat with gold buttons, to
the drawing-rooms—the walls lined with figured crimson
velvet, and all manner of lounges and tables covered
with knick-knackery scattered about. The lady made
her appearance in a blue and black satin dress with jet
ornaments and a lace headdress—a handsome brunette,
with red cheeks and very black eyes and hair, and altogether
too much mannerism to please me. She was
evidently criticising me, and holding herself in a non-committal
attitude. I sat still and talked very quietly,
thinking to myself that if I were condemned to live there
one week I should overturn the lady and smash everything
to atoms. Presently a few fashionable morning
visitors dropped in to condole with the lady, who had
scratched her throat by swallowing a mouthful too
hastily, and so was an invalid; some messages of inquiry
and condolence were delivered by an old, grave footman,
so very silly, and answered in so absurd a manner, that I
wondered how the man could keep a grave countenance;
and yet the lady had wit and spirit which occasionally
flashed out. Sir J. H. came in with Dr. H. to see me.
I had a little very pleasant talk, and am to meet him on
Tuesday. We descended to lunch, ladies sitting down in
their bonnets. The dining-room and library had ceilings
beautifully painted to imitate the sky with clouds; the
whole house was hung with paintings. The lady’s
manner grew gradually pleasanter; she seemed to like
me, admired my hand, and insisted on my drinking a
glass of wine—the first I ever took. I told her so, and
she was much pleased at her influence. She took us in
her barouche through Regent’s Park, and then extended
her drive to Hyde Park. These parks are very beautiful—miles
of grassy lawn, scattered over with groves, gardens,
and clumps of trees, with occasional water, and varied
with little valleys. They are surrounded by rows of
palace houses, sometimes approaching the carriage road,
sometimes lost in gardens and shrubbery. I did enjoy
to see the people walking about, sitting under the trees,
inhaling a little fresh air on the quiet Sunday, for the
most perfect order prevailed. Our hostess became quite
agreeable, laughed, and chatted merrily about all manner
of nothings. It was impossible to converse with her;
she must do the talking with a little support, and she gave
forth a good deal of shrewd worldly wisdom. She set us
down at the Zoological Gardens in Regent’s Park, with
many regrets that an engagement to a dinner-party in the
country prevented her asking me home, and the expression
of a strong desire to have a long, full conversation.
Monday, May 1849.—This morning I called on Dr. Carpenter,
who has written those admirable works on physiology.
He lives near Regent’s Park; it was sparkling
with dew as I walked through—refreshingly sweet.
I found him and his wife exceedingly agreeable. I liked
them at once. They questioned me with great interest
about my past course. I am to meet some distinguished
people at their house to-night, and among them a Miss
Gillies, an artist who has watched my steps with the
highest pleasure, and who thinks the only true livers
are the workers. I received several notes of introduction
from Dr. C. He says I must hear Mr. Paget
lecture; that he is the most promising surgeon in England.
I found an invitation to a pharmaceutical soirée
awaiting me on my return, with the information that I
might see all the distinguished M.D.’s there assembled.
Evening.—I have just returned from Dr. C.’s delightful
little party. The ladies were in regular ball costume;
some dresses very elegant; dancing to the piano; music,
vocal and instrumental. Dr. C. gave us a very beautiful
piece of Mendelssohn’s on the organ; he and his wife
sang together with great feeling. His microscopes, said
to be the most beautiful in England, were there. His
preparations were exquisite: the lung of a frog most
minutely injected, a piece of shark skin which seems
covered with innumerable teeth, and piles of other specimens.
Miss Gillies is a distinguished artist. I am to
visit her and see her relation, Dr. Southwood Smith.
Chapman, the well-known publisher, was present, and
talked a good deal to me, but seemed a little undecided
what tone to take. He has a very handsome, intellectual
face. I was introduced to many pleasant people; one
had the rare, beautiful face of Cowper’s mother. Great
interest seemed to be felt in my course.
Before going to Dr. C.’s I went to examine the
specimens collected for the pharmaceutical soirée. I
was surprised to find that the papier-mâché models have
been hitherto unknown in England, and that the people
were regarding with the utmost rapture specimens which
are in common use in all American colleges. Sir
J. H. drove us to the Consumption Hospital and the
Chelsea Botanical Gardens—a most kind-hearted, simple-mannered
old gentleman....
Dr. Percy secured me a great treat. I visited the
Hunterian Museum in company with Mr. Owen, who
lectures at the institution. It is said to be the finest
collection of comparative and morbid anatomy in the
world. Mr. Owen is a man of genius, and the hour
passed away like a minute while listening to his eloquent
descriptions of the fossil remains and the laws which related
them to living animals, to man, and to the globe. He
invited me to come any morning between ten and twelve,
but unfortunately my time is too crowded. The obstetric
collection is very fine; if I return through London I
shall certainly try to spend a week or two in examining it.
We next took the railroad and went to Greenwich,
choosing the third-class open cars that I might see the
country, which is laid out in market gardens richly cultivated,
all round London, though the city, stretching out
through Deptford to Greenwich, makes one uninterrupted
town in that direction. Greenwich Hospital for Sailors
has impressed me more than any other institution with
the power and wealth of the nation. It is a series of
great palaces, connected by colonnades with double rows
of pillars ranged round a large green open to the river,
with the park and observatory in the background. The
old sailors were hobbling about in comfortable dresses,
with enormous rations of bread and meat; for we
reached it just at dinner-time, and they were allowed to
take their meals and eat in their cabins. There are long
walks where they smoke, and they rove about in the
freest style. Their chapel is a very beautiful hall,
though I fear the rich painting and mosaic is lost on the
rough tars. The Painted Hall is immediately opposite;
the vaulted ceiling is covered with figures which are
larger than life, even from below; the walls are entirely
covered with large paintings, richly framed, of naval
engagements and naval heroes, and many relics of the
great commanders are preserved in cases. The park is
always open to the public; groups of women and children
were sitting under the fine old trees, and the deer
were so tame that they took no notice of passers-by.
We sailed up the river to Waterloo Bridge, passing the
Tower and St. Paul’s, and several handsome stone
bridges. Then we went over the British Museum, which
is thrown open to the public. We had only time to pass
rapidly through hall after hall devoted to branches of
natural science, Egyptian monuments, Grecian remains,
&c., all admirably classified, with a label to every specimen.
How I longed that our students, and particularly
a certain E. B., could enjoy the great advantage of walking
to such an institution, and seeing each object of
study actually there in its natural relations! I hastened
home to wash and dress, and reached Mrs. X.’s just in
time for the seven o’clock dinner. It was a tremendous
operation. We sat at table for three hours. I really
grew stiff, notwithstanding the champagne I drank. By-the-by,
that is the only wine I like; iced champagne is
really good. I sat by Sir J. H. at table, and never
discovered till I had left that it was actually mother’s
old friend. He told Charles that he knew my mother,
and remembered my face perfectly, having often seen me
at church. I regretted exceedingly that I did not know
the connection till too late, for I had always liked the
kind old gentleman, and he would have seemed to me
quite like an old friend. He has been rather unfortunate
in money matters lately, and was robbed of all his family
jewels by a foreign count and countess whom he was
hospitably entertaining. He possesses an old château in
France, which he often visits, and gave me his card to use
at Boulogne, in case I went that way. The general conversation,
however, was stupid, and I really needed our three-mile
walk home to wear off its constraining effects.
Thursday morning I visited my first hospital, St.
Thomas’s, but under rather unpleasant circumstances;
indeed, I hesitated whether to go at all. The surgeon to
whom I sent my letter of introduction knew nothing
about me, thought it was a very indelicate undertaking,
and simply sent me a line to one of the nurses, with the
request that I would not enter any of the men’s wards.
I swallowed the indignity, however, and went, feeling
very uncomfortable. But to my surprise, after I had
been there a little while I was met by Mr. South, the
senior surgeon, who had come on purpose to meet me
and show me everything—a very kind, rather eccentric
man, who paid me the utmost attention, and pointed out
everything, even to the everlasting brewhouse of the
establishment. In the museum he drew my attention to
many noteworthy specimens, such as the aorta tied by
Sir Astley Cooper. St. Thomas’s is a series of enormous
buildings, which is the character of most public institutions
here; its income is 30,000l. per annum, and some
hospitals have even more. Then he invited me to attend
his clinical lecture; so at the head of a large body of
students, who had been peeping at me in every direction,
I passed with him through ward after ward, men’s and
women’s, the students preserving the most perfect order,
though I could see that they were filled with the intensest
curiosity. He gave me the fullest description of
interesting cases, and made me examine several. He
left his students to the house-surgeon, and accompanied
me to the Barclay Brewery—an enormous affair, quite a
national curiosity. It was here that the brutal Haynau,
whilst visiting the place a short time ago, was mobbed
by the men when they heard who had come amongst
them, and barely escaped some very rough usage. My
courteous escort left me in the kindliest manner, promising
me an introduction to the Bethlehem. While at
St. Thomas’s I received three invitations to post-mortems,
to a lecture, and to the Ophthalmic Dispensary, all of
which I was compelled to decline for want of time.
At the brewery visitors enter their names. I set
mine down without the M.D.; Mr. South insisted on
my adding it. I have been asked by physicians again
and again if they shall call me doctor—they fully recognise
my right. I always answer this question in the
affirmative, as a matter of principle. I can hardly describe
to you the difference of feeling with which I
entered and left the hospital. We walked a couple of
miles to dine with Mr. and Mrs. Charles T., an elegant
household, though without the fetters of fashion;
they welcomed me most kindly. My two remaining days
will be very busy: I have two or three hospitals to visit
and several people to see; indeed, engagement treads
upon engagement, so that I’ve hardly a moment to think.
I thought such excitement would have bothered me intensely.
It did at first bewilder, but now I’ve roused myself
to meet it and I really enjoy it. I’ve never had such
an experience; I must have walked ten miles a day. I
come home sometimes hardly able to move a foot; I
wash and dress, and in an hour I’m up again and fresh
for as much more—the more I have to do, the more I can.
I believe I’ve never yet begun to call out my power of
working.
The girl has just come in with my letters, passport,
and papers by the ‘Europa’—what a good sight! Bless
you all ten thousand times! My next letter will probably
be from Paris....
... I have had a delightful visit to Hampstead, where
Dr. Wilkinson lives. He received me at once with the
greatest kindness and interest, introduced me to his wife,
a very sweet woman, graceful and gentle, and to some
very pretty black-eyed children. He was disappointed
that my stay was so short; told me I ought certainly to
spend a year in London, that the longer he lived in it the
more wonderful it seemed to him, that every idea was
represented there not by a single individual but by a
whole class, and that the societies I might study there
would be of great service to me as a means of development.
He is a tall, strong man, not handsome, wears
spectacles, and has a strong expression of goodness in his
face. He took me to see two people who were desirous
of making my acquaintance, and showed me all the fine
points of view from Hampstead, which truly is a most
lovely spot, though only two miles from London. It is a
hilly range, looking down on wide undulating country on
both sides, with blue hills in the distance—Windsor
Castle being distinctly visible twenty miles off. I cannot
describe the place; it seems to have built itself in one of
Nature’s choicest nooks. There is a common covered
with golden gorse, broken by little dells in which pretty
cottages are nestled, and there are old mansions hidden
in noble parks, old walls covered with luxuriant ivy,
shady lanes with long avenues of trees and smooth
hedges of hawthorn and laurel, fields covered with a
rich carpet golden with buttercups and daisies, the cows
quietly feeding in a veritable paradise to them. Then
there are all manner of odd corners and irregular clusters
of houses, but everywhere the most intense vegetation.
The little cottage occupied by Byron, who used often to
resort to this lovely spot, was pointed out to me, and
Harrow, where he went to school. We had much interesting
conversation. In the omnibus I parted from the
doctor with real regret, but quite refreshed by the cordial
intercourse.
Journey to Paris.—All my teachers and medical
friends in America had strongly advised my going to
Paris, as the one place where I should be able to
find unlimited opportunities for study in any branch
of the medical art. Being then desirous of pursuing
surgery as well as medicine, I followed their advice.
On May 21, 1849, with a very slender purse and
few introductions of any value, I found myself in the
unknown world of Paris, bent upon the one object
of pursuing my studies, with no idea of the fierce
political passions then smouldering amongst the
people, nor with any fear of the cholera which was
then threatening an epidemic.
Curious glimpses of this outer world are given in
letters sent home at that time.
Paris, 11 Rue de Seine: May 1849.
You see, dear friends, that I have reached my destination
at last, and fairly established myself in this strange
city. I parted from my kind companion, who in London
had spent the whole week in one continued effort to aid
me in every possible way, with real gratitude. I could
not thank him, words seemed too meaningless.... I
left London with the profoundest respect for the vast
power of many kinds displayed there, and a grateful
remembrance of a personal reception that had been so
encouraging. It rained the whole way over. An English
lady returning to Paris with her husband was very
friendly. She promised to show me the best place to
stay at in Calais, and said if I would travel with them in
the cars she could give me much information about
Paris, for the French made a point of cheating the
English unmercifully, thinking they were immensely
wealthy. We were notified of our approach to Calais by
a strong smell of fish. It was quite dark and raining in
torrents; I was very glad to have companions. We
picked our way as well as we could over the stone pier,
enclosed by walls on which stood a lighthouse glaring
into the dark night. We stepped into the rooms where
the passports are examined, and there the whiskered
faces showed me I was amongst strangers, and the Où
allez-vous, madame? confirmed the fact. Next morning
I stood for some time on the pier waiting for the Custom-house
officer and watching the strange people. Market-women
in their white caps (the common people wear no
bonnet), groups of workmen in blue blouses, fishwomen
of enormous muscular development, though short, returning
from fishing laden with their nets, clad in a single
petticoat scarcely reaching to the knee, little children
with their school-books making sundry excursions on to
the fishing-smacks by the way, and chattering French
with all their might. At the Custom-house the search
was very slight; they did not even see the cases which I
had put at the back of a larger trunk, and I was only
charged a couple of francs. We left Calais at nine o’clock,
and the difference between France and England was
apparent the whole way. The country was no flatter
than between Liverpool and Birmingham, but badly
drained and badly cultivated, with many peat bogs and
dwarf willows bordering the watercourses. There were
many villages built of light-coloured stone, but apparently
not one brisk, thriving town. The whole way wooden
fences instead of beautiful live hedges, women digging
trenches and working in the peat bogs, and the railroad
left in the rough, unfinished style of America, without the
excuse of an immense young country. At the Custom-house
in Paris, where they search the trunks for butter
and cheese, I parted from my travelling companions and
launched boldly into the sea of Paris. It looked very odd
as I drove along; the streets so narrow, with such odd,
old-fashioned houses, all built of this light-coloured stone,
which has no sort of expression. They charged extravagantly
at the hotel where I passed the night, so I
determined at once to procure lodgings, and set off early
next morning to hunt up Mr. Doherty, who I knew
through Dr. Wilkinson would tell me the right quarter
for medical doings.
I started off with a map in my hand and hope in my
heart, and reached Mr. Doherty’s house very early, I
suppose, for Parisian hours, for the gentleman was in bed
when my letters were handed in; and soon after a short
sleepy-looking man made his appearance, with a horrid
coarse beard, a blue and red woollen dressing-gown, and
green baize trousers hanging about his ankles. I had
some difficulty in making him comprehend that I was
not Anna. At last, however, with the help of letters and
my explanations, all became clear. I found him very
pleasant; he breakfasted, dressed, &c., while I talked to
his brother Thomas, who is a beautiful artist. Mr. D.
went with me to some places he knew of. At last we
found a little room with bedroom attached in a central
situation and at a moderate rent. The hostess was a very
pleasant-looking woman, with her own room close by, the
whole suite being separated from the rest of the house.
I felt, however, quite disappointed in the city; it did not
seem to me handsome, gay, or elegant after London; but
then, in truth, I was so busy settling my own little
matters that I hardly had time to examine closely. To-day
I have spent in walking about the city with my
hostess, chiefly for the sake of chattering with her and
accustoming my ear to the strange sounds, for I find I
have much to learn. I have great trouble in expressing
myself with any elegance, and I cannot see the physicians
until I have acquired a tolerable command of
words; I shall very soon, however, be able to do so. I
went out to buy a bonnet to-day, but found that my
unfortunate organs were totally unable to squeeze themselves
into a Parisian head-dress; so I was obliged to
order a bonnet, choosing plain grey silk, although I was
assured again and again that nobody wore that colour....
An interview with Lamartine.—At this period
much sympathy was felt in America for the Republican
movement in France, of which Lamartine was
the head. Before leaving Philadelphia a friend had
asked me to be the bearer of one of those expressions
of sympathy from public meetings which were then
sent to the poet from all parts of the United States.
I willingly undertook the commission, and now
wrote to the President for permission to present the
document entrusted to me.
May 31, 1849.
I have just returned from my visit by appointment to
Lamartine, where I went to deliver the Philadelphia
resolution entrusted to me. I must hasten to give you
a sketch before this post—the last—closes.
Of course I dressed with great care, and arrived just
at the appointed hour. I was asked if I was a lady from
America, for Lamartine is to most people in the country.
I was shown through several ante-chambers into a drawing-room,
where stood the poet entertaining some visitors;
he bowed, requested me to wait a few moments, and
withdrew with his visitors into another room. I examined
the apartment: a lofty room, carved and richly gilded,
three long windows opening on to a balcony commanding
a garden full of trees. The room contained a rich carpet
and purple velvet couches and chairs, some portraits, an
exquisite female profile in bas-relief, a golden chandelier
from the ceiling, some antique vases, &c., and a soft
green light from the trees of the large garden diffused
through the room. The door opened and Lamartine
entered; very tall and slender, but the most graceful man
I have ever seen, every movement was music; grey eyes
and hair. The little bust is a pretty good likeness. He
has the gentlemanly voice (Uncle Charles’s), clear, melodious,
perfectly well-bred. In fact, his exterior harmonised
perfectly with his poetry. He understood English.
Slowly and distinctly I explained the commission which
had been entrusted to me. He asked me if the resolution
referred to the fraternity of the race, and seemed to
understand at once the whole matter when I replied in
the affirmative. I referred him to the letters accompanying
the resolution for full explanation respecting the
document and the manner of presenting it. He said he
was very happy to receive these expressions of sympathy.
He would read the letters carefully and send me an
answer, which I promised to transmit to America. He
accompanied me very politely to the stairs, bowed, and
we parted. I was in no way disappointed; there was
perfect harmony in the man and his surroundings.
Doubtless he is a true man, though unable to work into
practice the great thoughts he cherishes.
I went last night with my good little hostess to a
neighbouring church, where there is service every evening.
It was well lighted round the central altar, but in
every direction the lofty aisles stretched away into the
darkness, with an occasional lamp illuminating some
saint, and small groups of dark figures kneeling on the
pavement. The people were assembled in the centre—mostly
the lower classes, women in their white caps, and
little children dressed like miniature women; they knelt
or stood, or sat on chairs and benches as the service
required, generally with the utmost devotion. The little
children used the holy water, crossed themselves, and
knelt with their mothers, and regarded the bright lights,
the flowers round the golden Virgin, and the impressive
music with eager, wondering faces. The service was
sung or chanted entirely in Latin; occasionally a pause in
the music would be broken by the sudden, deep tones of
a man’s voice away in the darkness, or a choir of boys’
voices would burst forth apparently from the clouds.
The walls were covered with enormous pictures partially
illuminated. I felt fully the impressiveness of this scene
to the uneducated people; no thought awakened, but the
emotional religious sentiment powerfully addressed; and
this every night, when the solemn ceremonial contrasts so
strongly and soothingly with the traffic of the day. The
children are nursed in this atmosphere until it becomes
a part of their nature that no reasoning can ever change.
My first introduction to Paris institutions was
through the visit of a public official, who brought a
registration paper to be filled up. I put myself down
as Etudiante. The man stared, and then standing
in front of me began to make the most extraordinary
grimaces, opening his eyes until the whites showed
all round them. My first astonished thought was—‘You
ugly little brute, what on earth are you doing
that for?’ when, his manner suddenly changing on
my look of astonishment, he tapped me benevolently
on the shoulder, saying, ‘Mon enfant, you must not
put yourself down as student—rentière is the word
you must use!’
In later life, with larger experience, I came to
the conclusion that I had been interviewed by the
Police des Mœurs! Fortunately at that time I knew
nothing of the corrupt system of accepting and
regulating female vice.
My next important interview was of a very
different character. A Boston friend had procured
for me, from a physician, an introduction to the
famous Louis, then at the height of his reputation.
It was a sealed introduction, which I forwarded
with my card. The next day a tall, imposing-looking
gentleman called upon me, who proved to be Louis
himself. I soon felt instinctively that his visit was
one of inspection. I told him frankly of my earnest
desire for hospital and practical instruction. After
a long conversation he most strongly advised me to
enter La Maternité, where in one most important
branch I could in a short time obtain more valuable
practical knowledge than could be obtained anywhere
else, and he informed me of the steps to be
taken in order to obtain admission. Before leaving,
however, M. Louis handed to me the letter of introduction
which I had sent to him, saying that he
thought I ought to see it. It was an astounding
production, written in such wretched French that I
could only suppose that its author was unaware
of its insulting character, or of the effect that such a
letter delivered to a French gentleman by a young
unknown woman was likely to produce. I never
again presented a sealed letter of introduction.
Some years later, when the distinguished physician
who had sent it called upon me in New York, I
returned the letter to him, with a few words of very
serious remonstrance.
On June 1 one of my sisters and a friend came
to Paris, and we moved into pleasant lodgings in the
Rue de Fleurus overlooking the Luxembourg Garden.
Whilst there I attended lectures at the Collège de
France and the Jardin des Plantes, and earnestly
sought for admission to some of the hospitals for
practical instruction. It seemed, however, that an
entrance into La Maternité would be the most
direct first step in obtaining the practical instruction
needed, and although regretting the delay in my
surgical studies which would be involved in such a
course, I finally resolved to pursue the courses of
that great institution.
The following letters refer to this period of effort.
My dear Cousin.—I find that I cannot enter the
Maternité at present for want of an acte de naissance. I
am trying to get over the difficulty, but French regulations
are so strict that it is still uncertain whether I can
succeed. Would it be possible to secure in Bristol a
copy of my register of baptism, with a statement of my
birthday and my parents, certified by the mayor or some
proper authority? I was baptised at Bridge Street by
Mr. Leifchild; I was born on February 3, 1821. I do
not know, however, whether such a register is kept in
England. If it could be procured, it would remove the
difficulty which lies in my way.
We find Paris a very lively residence; every day something
new is occurring, or we discover some wonderful
old place which we must certainly visit. One day it is
the funeral celebrations of Marshal Bugeaud, at which
all the great men assist, with an army of soldiers and an
enormous crowd; or a thousand little girls take their first
communion at St. Sulpice, dressed in white with long
veils; or some grand collection of flowers or manufactured
articles calls out the spectacle-loving people. There
is a constant effervescence of life in this great city, which
concentrates all its energy in itself, and makes the
Parisians at the same time the most brilliant and the
most conceited people in the world. The greatest pleasure
which we have yet enjoyed was our trip last Sunday
to Versailles; it is really a place to be proud of, and I
could not wonder at the worship which is paid to that
beautiful temple by the people who, day after day, range
freely through its grand galleries and spacious gardens.
I received to-day a very pleasant letter from Dr.
Webster, one of our professors at Geneva; I was much
gratified to find that their course to me has been approved
by the profession in America. It would have grieved me
inexpressibly if they had been condemned for the aid
they had given me, and there seemed to be some possibility
of it when I left. But he tells me my thesis was commented
on in the Report on Medicine at the National
Medical Convention held in Boston, and their course in
relation to me justified and approved. The thesis was
received with applause. This information is quite a relief
to me, for the thought would be too painful that you
could injure your friends.
June 15.
Dear Cousin,—By the first of July, as soon as I
have conquered some miserable little difficulties, such as
the acte de naissance, certificate of vaccination, &c.,
which I cannot produce, I shall enter La Maternité, a
world-famous institution, and remain until I have succeeded
in my first object—viz. to become an accomplished
obstetrician. There are personal objections connected
with this course that I was not prepared for—viz. a strict
imprisonment, very poor lodging and food, some rather
menial services, and the loss of three or four nights’ sleep
every week. Still, these are things that can be borne (if
the health will stand them) when the end to be gained is
an important one; and I am sure you will agree with
me that it is wise to sacrifice physical comfort for a
while in order to attain it. I propose to remain there
three months, and then I shall try and accomplish my
second object—viz. surgery.
I hope in a day or two to receive permission from
the Directeur-General, M. Davenne, to examine all the
hospitals of Paris. I am working on gradually; but I
find more clearly every day that the genius of the French
nation does not suit me, and my love for the Anglo-Saxon
race, and my admiration for our wonderful Fatherland,
increase by the comparison....
We have had a strange glimpse of a revolution, a sort
of theatrical representation of what that terrible thing
might be. I confess that the whole exhibition seemed
to me peculiarly French; and yet there are noble and
terrible passions, lying below this mercurial excitability,
that command hearty sympathy or serious consideration,
and the unjust, tyrannical acts of the Government excite
one’s strongest indignation. Now all is quiet again, however,
and the whole affair is said to have been planned
by the authorities to get rid of certain troublesome men.
A. and E. have stood the shock well, though they
turned quite pale on finding as they were quietly parading
the streets that they were in the midst of an émeute, and
later I was sent out to see if they had not better instantly
return to England, before civil war broke out and their
throats were cut....
On the afternoon of the 13th E. and I went out to
see the curious sight. The Quai to the National Assembly,
more than a mile long, was lined with soldiers with their
drawn bayonets. The Louvre and the Tuileries opposite
were closed and filled with soldiers. An army of cavalry
was mounted and ready to start at any moment. We
passed through hurrying crowds full of excitement, hearing
fearful reports of what had happened and what was to
come. On the bridges, at the corners of the streets, were
large groups of blouses, students, citizens, women, listening
to some orator of the moment, gesticulating violently.
More than once I observed a woman enthusiastically
haranguing an audience. The most curious mixture of
passions was visible on the faces—fear, anger, indignation,
hope, hatred; there was many a figure that realised the
horrors of an earlier revolution. It seems inconceivable
now that those violent expressions should have died
away, and that Paris is going on in its usual busy way.
June 1849.
My Friends, one and all,—I closed my last letter
apparently on the eve of a great insurrection. I went
out with E. G. quickly to put it in the post, not knowing
how soon we might be prisoners in the house or stirring
out at the risk of life. We passed through hurrying
crowds full of excitement. Through the night heavy
waggons of ammunition and provisions, escorted by
soldiers, had rumbled through the streets. The public
squares were shut and filled with soldiers. The Democratic
press was destroyed; and the next morning the
city was declared in a state of siege, and a proclamation
was published by the President calling on all good citizens
to maintain the authority of the law.
But nothing occurred, the commotion subsided, and
the Conservative press congratulated the country on its
preservation from the dangerous conspiracy of a few
seditious demagogues.
It is difficult to get at the truth in a country where
everybody lies upon principle; but it is now commonly
believed that the whole affair was a trick of the Government
to get rid of Ledru Rollin, Considérant, and other
troublesome members of the Montagne, who were determined
to call the President to account for his infamous
conduct to the poor Romans.
I do not know whether American papers give these
particulars—you must tell me if I repeat what you can
get better elsewhere—but we have taken deep interest in
these events passing round us. Our indignation is much
roused against the Conservative tyranny; and the belief
in the Government trick shows, curiously enough, of
what it may be capable.
A manifestation meeting was called, to support by
general feeling the attack which had been made by the
advanced party in the Assembly on the unconstitutional
measures of the President in suppressing popular gatherings.
Two hundred thousand men were passing quietly
to the place of meeting, some of the most respectable
and distinguished citizens of Paris amongst them, not
the slightest disturbance, not even one ‘Vive la Constitution!’
was heard; but a proclamation had been stuck
about the streets, of the most inflammatory character, calling
the citizens to arms, and signed by Considérant and
Ledru Rollin. On the strength of that proclamation,
which is fully believed to have been a forgery, the ‘meeting’
was dispersed and proceedings instituted against the
members. The Government is proceeding with a high
hand. I see that to-day even the Conservative press is
putting in a feeble protest.
You would be amused to see how universally politics
are discussed: the boy who arranged our rooms, the
market-women at their stalls, everyone finds time to read
a journal and give some opinion about it.
On June 30 I entered La Maternité; my residence
there was an invaluable one at that stage
of the medical campaign, when no hospitals, dispensaries,
or practical cliniques were open to
women. La Maternité was a great State institution,
where young women to be trained as midwives
were sent up from every department of France.
The system of instruction, both theoretical and
practical, was a remarkable illustration of that
genius for organisation which belongs to the French.
Every moment of time was appropriated; no distraction
of books, newspapers, or other than medical
works were allowed; lectures, wardwork, drills, and
cliniques were arranged from morning to night with
no confusion, but no pause; and the comprehension
and progress of each pupil was constantly tested by
examination.
The institution occupied the old convent of Port
Royal, and the discipline was monastic in simplicity,
regularity, and seclusion.
Stirring events were occurring in Paris during
my residence in the Maternité, but only vague
rumours reached us, as no newspapers were allowed
within the old grey convent walls.
The following letters give curious pictures of life
in this remarkable French institution.
July 1, 1849: à la Maternité.
Dear Mother,—I have now entered upon a strange
phase of life, which I must try and describe, that you
may imagine me running about in my great white apron,
in which respectable article of apparel I expect to figure
for the next three months. I had a good many obstacles
to encounter from my ignorance of French customs;
and the physicians of Paris, as far as I can judge, are
determined not to grant the slightest favour to a feminine
M.D. I could not obtain from any persons connected
with the Maternité the smallest modification to
suit the very different status with which I enter from
the young French sages-femmes; but I was determined
to enter on whatever conditions, and enter, too, by the
first of July, to habituate myself a little to the ways of
the place before the annual lectures commenced. I find
now that nothing would have been easier than to have
given me a little room to myself, permission to go out
occasionally, and similar favours, which need have occasioned
no jealousy or inconvenience; for the very fact
of my being a foreigner impresses the French girls, and
they would freely have accepted any claim made for me.
But everything was obstinately refused to all the representations
of myself or the Consul, Mr. Walsh, and I
was only too glad to enter as a young, ignorant French
girl. On June 30 I drove down with Anna to the
hospital. A high stone wall, with the tops of old buildings
peeping above, extends nearly the whole length of
a little street. A very small door led into a dark little
entrance, the portière on one side, and a long room,
called by courtesy the parloir, on the other. You must
notice the parloir, for it is there I shall receive my
visitors, if I ever have any, at two o’clock, in common
with the other élèves; and there in one corner, in a sort
of little glass box, sits the good dame who attends to the
letters and transacts all the outdoor business for the
élèves. The ceiling is very low, the floor of brick, rows
of wooden benches ranged one before the other—the
most uninteresting room you can possibly conceive; the
only pretty thing being the vine leaves which peep
through the diamond-shaped windows. This room forms
part of a row of old buildings standing against the wall,
which contain the director’s bureau, the Interne’s rooms,
&c. It was too late for me to see M. Boivin, the director,
so an old woman took me into the central buildings,
through a labyrinth of little passages and long galleries,
and all manner of rooms and queer places, to Madame
Charrier, the sage-femme in chief, who has her own
rooms in a particular part of the building. Her parlour
is the funniest little cabinet of curiosities, with a carpet
on the floor, as it is of brick instead of waxed wood.
Little chintz sofas, mosaic tables, boxes, china and
figures, crucifixes, pictures and embroideries, and curtains
everywhere. Madame Charrier is a little deformed
woman, elderly, but with a fresh colour still, and kind
blue eyes. I like what I have seen of her; she seems
generally loved by the pupils, and though I do not
imagine her of any particular amount of intellect, she
seems to have good sense, and after twelve years in such
an establishment as this she ought to have much valuable
experience. Madame Charrier conducted me by
unknown ways to Madame Blockel, the superintendent
of the dortoirs, who took me into the infirmary, and
said I must sleep there until I had arranged my affairs
with the director. I did not much admire the idea of
passing the night in the infirmary. There was a large
wood fire on the hearth, and the air felt warm and somewhat
close. I looked suspiciously at the long rows of
beds extending on each side, their white curtains closely
drawn; I did not know what undesirable emanations
might be proceeding from them. However, I said
nothing, but determined to investigate the contents of
the beds as soon as the observers had withdrawn. My
trunk was brought up, my bed pointed out, a little lamp
placed on the table, and I was left alone. I proceeded
then to make my observations, and found to my great
relief that every bed was empty, except one, in which
one of the élèves, who happened to have a headache, was
lying, and from her I found that the place is healthy and
no epidemic has prevailed there for a long time. I found
her, like all the other French girls, full of those light
kindnesses which are so pleasant. She asked me eagerly
if I was from her province, and seemed to regard me
with much interest when she found I was a stranger
from New York, which was the only part of the United
States she had heard of, and which she took to be an
island near Havannah. I have since found that the
pupils are much disappointed that I am not black, as they
supposed all persons from America were! After talking
a little with her I took out my writing materials, and sat
down to the table determining to pay a little visit across
the water before going to rest in my new home; but
I had no sooner seated myself than Madame Charrier
entered with a crowd of élèves, to know if I would pass
the night in the salle d’accouchements, it being an optional
matter the first night. Of course I expressed the utmost
willingness. I put up my letter with a sigh, dressed myself
for duty, and accompanied an ancienne élève (that
is, one who has already studied a year, and who always
has one or more of the nouvelles élèves under her care for
initiation) to the room where the children are born. A
large apron of coarse towelling was given me, with the
injunction not to lose it, or I should have to pay three
francs. It was a large upper room, rather dimly lighted,
beds all round, a fire on the hearth, cupboards full of
linen in the corners, heaps of shining copper and tin
utensils, several rush-bottomed chairs and wooden tables,
and in the centre a large wooden stand with sides, on
which the little new-comers, tightly swathed and ticketed,
are ranged side by side. In the course of the night
we had the pleasure of arranging eight in this way,
and the next morning when Madame Charrier made her
appearance the cloth was removed and the sight shown
with much triumph. It was really very droll. Each
little shapeless red visage peeped from under a coarse
peaked cap, on the front of which was a large label with
the name and sex; a black serge jacket with a white
handkerchief pinned across, and a small blanket tightly
folded round the rest of the body, completed the appearance
of the little mummy. Their behaviour certainly
realised Fourier’s supposition, for there was very little
crying all the time they lay there together. There were
four young French girls sitting up with me, besides the
girl who makes the beds and does the roughest work.
They were all pretty and pleasant, of no education except
their studies in the institution; but those had been evidently
carefully attended to, and it sounded not a little
droll to hear the scientific terms flowing so glibly from
their laughing lips, which were busily employed in talking
nonsense all the time that their duties did not call
them to the bedside. The next morning at ten o’clock
we were discharged from duty; it was Sunday, a comparatively
leisure day, and I being a Protestant was
excused from the religious services, but I was too sleepy
to do much. I wrote, walked in the garden and read a
little there, retired early, and had a most welcome sleep
and very pleasant dreams.
Our dortoir is a large airy room, with a row of
windows and beds on each side, divided into two by a
large archway; it contains sixteen beds, occupied mostly
by anciennes élèves. I have a window behind my bed; I
have shoved the bed forward, fitted in a chair behind,
hung up my dressing-gown, and put a few books on the
floor by my side, and call it my room. I am now sitting
there writing to you. I have just room enough to move
my right arm freely, but I am out of the way, I am
breathing fresh air, so I consider myself very well off. An
old crucifix ornamented by gilded leaves hangs at one end
of the dortoir, two little lamps are suspended from the ceiling,
an iron bedstead and a chair are appropriated to each
individual. The floor is formed of little hexagon bricks,
which in some of the rooms are so terribly polished that
I walk on them with difficulty. The dortoir is seldom
quiet; the girls sit there a good deal, and some who have
watched through the night are generally there in bed;
and how French girls do chatter! How they do go into
sudden fits of ecstasy or rage! Once at least in the
day we have a grand storm, Madame Blockel coming in
for some trouble or other, in which she and the accused
out-scream each other, and appear to be mortal enemies
for a few minutes, and the best of friends immediately
after. At twelve o’clock we receive our supply of bread
for the day, which we keep in our bedroom and take
backwards and forwards to meals. I have frequently
wished that you could see me walking gravely along the
gallery with my loaf of bread wrapped in a napkin under
my arm. The dining-room is a large hall full of round
tables, only three of which are occupied at present, as the
élèves only number thirty, instead of ninety, the usual
number. At dinner I saw them all together for the first
time; some very pretty and graceful, some very rough. I
am learning to take wine; everyone advises me to do so,
and I shall soon be able to drink my bottle a day.
There seems to be an admirable organisation of work
here in every department. I have been much amused to-day
by the lessons in theory that I have received from
my ancienne élève or chef. The pupils all sat round, and
the young instructress, furnished with some bones, gave
out an explanatory sentence, which was repeated by each
one in turn; I found it an excellent plan of learning
French. Of course, the repetition would have been
intolerable without the language, but to listen to a dozen
different voices and to repeat myself I found to be admirable
practice; indeed, being cut off from all English
communication is a great advantage in learning French.
July 3.—This morning I finish my letter in another
situation. I wrote last night till it was dark, and the
little lamp in our dortoir gave so much darkness that I
went to bed for want of light. To-day I am en service—that
is to say, I shall spend the day from eight in the
morning till eight in the evening in superintending the
six rooms of the infirmary. I have been handling leeches
for the first time (disgusting little things). I enter with
an ancienne élève, who shows me all the ways of the house.
At present the lectures have not commenced, but the
visits of Madame Charrier and the physician take place
every day; and nature is always here in great abundance
to be studied. I feel I shall gain a great deal, and
hitherto it has really not proved nearly so formidable an
imprisonment as I supposed. The air is delightful this
beautiful summer weather, the girls pleasant. There is
much to interest in so large an establishment, and I suppose
the three months will soon slip away, for I have
entered, in my own mind, only for the three months,
though I have been asked so often if I am going to stay
two years that I have had to tell a great many—evasions.
I shall have, doubtless, many weary moments, but I want
you all to know that it will not be so utterly miserable as
my former letters may have represented it. And great
will be the reward! So send a welcome greeting to the
Voluntary Prisoner.
July 1849.
Dear M.,—I last wrote to you when I was my
own mistress; now in some measure I have given
up my liberty, and I must give you a little sketch
of my prison life, that you may be able to picture the
surroundings of your sister M.D. Imagine a large square
of old buildings, formerly a convent, set down in the
centre of a great court with a wood and garden behind,
and many little separate buildings all around, the whole
enclosed by very high walls, over the tops of which,
shining out beautifully against the clear sky, may be seen
the dome of the Panthéon, the Hôtel des Invalides, and
the whole building of the observatory which is close
adjoining. The inner court is surrounded by les cloîtres,
a most convenient arched passage which gives a covered
communication to the whole building, and which I suppose
was formerly traversed by shaven monks on their
way to the church, whose great painted window looks out
into the court, but which now echoes the laughter of
many merry girls, and across which at half-past seven
every morning you may see your humble servant with
her coarse tablier de service and little white pot in hand
hurrying to get some coffee. At half-past five every
morning I start up in bed, roused by the bustle of the
élèves, who are up before me. I make violent efforts to
drive away sleep, which are only partially successful, and
then follow the example of twenty girls who inhabit the
same long dortoir, and who are busy each by her own
iron bedstead dressing hastily to be ready for the visit.
I hasten upstairs to the long corridor, the ‘Sainte-Elisabeth,’
where my patients lie. I inquire carefully their
condition, wash them, and see that the beds have been
properly arranged. By that time it is a quarter past six;
Madame Charrier makes her appearance and goes the
rounds, accompanied by the élèves, each one giving a
short report of the patients under her care. It is a funny
group: fifty women or more of all ages, wide awake from
the hurry of their duties, but dressed mostly in haste
with little white caps, coloured handkerchiefs, and the
coarser ones in short bed-gowns, their faces browned by
the sun, their hands red with hard work, but all good-tempered,
with a kind word always ready, and their black
eyes sparkling with life. We pass through the Salles
Sainte-Marguerite, Sainte-Elisabeth, Sainte-Anne, visiting
each patient in her alcove—it is seven when we finish. I
hasten back to my dortoir, make my bed, &c., fetch my
coffee, which I procure for two sous a morning from the
superintendent of the infirmary, eat it hastily with my
bread, which is always supplied for the day at noon, and
then hurry off to the Salles Sainte-Marie and Sainte-Marthe,
where the more sick patients are placed, whom the
attending physicians visit every morning at eight. At this
visit are present M. Girardin, the chief physician, a tall,
dry, grey-haired man, full of pomposity; the interne,
M. Blot, a very handsome, somewhat dignified young
physician, with, I fancy, rather a cross temper; Madame
Charrier, the aide-sage-femme, and as many of the élèves
as choose to be present. This over, I make some independent
visits to cases which interest me, to the nursery,
&c., and try to pick up a little here and there; then I
return to the dortoir and read or write a little. Afterwards
I join the class instruction in the wood, a preparatory
lesson which the elder élèves give to the younger ones,
and which I attend for the sake of the French. It is a
very pretty method of instruction: the young teacher
seated on the grass, all the pupils grouped around under
the thick shade of some fine tree, the atmosphere being
of an elastic purity which is truly charming. The French
girls have a natural talent for instruction; they are so in
the habit of talking that they never find the slightest
difficulty in expressing what they know, and their lively
perceptions give them a peculiar power for superficial
instruction. Our poor country girls find it very hard at
first to catch scientific words that they do not understand,
but in a surprisingly short time they roll them off smoothly
and to a certain extent understand well what is taught them.
At twelve the bell sounds for the first meal, only milk
being given at seven o’clock. We enter a large hall, full
of round tables, each holding twelve; to each are furnished
a couple of white plates, a tumbler and small bottle of
wine, a loaf of bread, a spoon and fork. The meal consists
of soup, boiled meat, and vegetables; it is eaten in
haste to the music of Madame Blockel’s voice, which
keeps up a storm the whole time. She is a somewhat
important personage, superintending our meals and our
dortoirs; she is a little red-faced, squint-eyed being, with
tremendous projecting teeth, and dressed always in rusty
black with a black cap. She is good-natured, liked by
the girls, but has a tremendous vocal organ, which is
always sounding forth at its highest pitch. Morning,
noon, and night good Madame Blockel’s voice drowns
all opposing sounds; and really now I am getting as
used to it as to a noisy street, and would not care if only
she would keep out of the dortoir at night when I am
sleepy, for, like a barking dog, she sets all the girls going,
and I don’t know when the storm subsides, for I sink to
sleep in spite of it. When the meal is over we present a
funny sight, each carrying off her loaf, napkin, knife, and
various bottles and remnants of dinner. I return to the
dortoir, do up little matters, read or attend the class
again, visit my patients in the corridor, and from two to
three go to the parloir to see my friends, if they are so
good as to come at that hot hour to see me. This parloir
is a funny affair—a plain room, filled with wooden
benches, where all manner of rough people are assembled
to visit the élèves. On certain days, also, in one
corner a woman establishes a little shop, where she supplies
all the small wants of the girls in the way of haberdashery,
stationery, perfumery, &c.; and in another corner
sits the old lady, la dame du bureau, observing everything,
and giving the signal precisely at three for the departure
of everybody. At six a second meal is served, consisting
of roast meat and some little kind of cake, and another
bottle of wine; afterwards we are free to do as we choose.
I generally sit a little in the wood and write till it is
dark; in a few days, however, the lectures commence,
and four or five hours will be occupied in that way. I
have described my idle, or rather my free days. When I
am en service I spend the whole day in the ward where
I am placed; or the night, if I happen to be on night
service. About three or four days are thus spent, and
after passing the night in watching I am not worth much
the next day, for I am not yet accustomed to the duty.
Then little extra touches come in to diversify the day. I
pay a visit to Madame Charrier or to Mlle. Mallet, one
of the aides-sage-femmes, whom I like very much, or some
difficult operation calls us to the amphitheatre. Next
week I shall be able to tell you how I like the lectures;
we shall have several each day, and I hope they will
supply the want which I now feel of an intelligent explanation
of the phenomena which I observe.
August.—The lectures have now commenced. From
seven to eight Madame Charrier gives her lesson every
morning; I occupy a chair beside her in consideration
of my foreignness, she being anxious that I should understand
thoroughly. I wish I could describe that lesson
to you; it is the most curious spurring-up of pupils I
ever saw, and really it makes some of them gallop admirably,
though many tumble down in the effort. Three
pupils are called down every morning, seated on a long
bench in front of Madame Charrier’s table, and undergo
an hour’s examination on what they have heard from the
teachers. If they answer promptly and well, her satisfaction
is extreme, her face grows beautiful, and her
‘Bien! très bien!’ really does me good, it is so hearty;
but if an unlucky pupil hesitate, if she speak too low, if
intelligence or attention be wanting, then breaks forth
the most admirable scolding I ever listened to. Alternately
satirical and furious, she becomes perfectly on fire,
rises upon her chair, claps her hands, looks up to heaven,
and the next moment, if a good answer has redeemed the
fault, all is forgotten, her satisfaction is as great as her
anger. There is not the slightest wickedness about her;
she puts her whole soul into her lesson, and does not
realise how very difficult it is for ignorant girls to study a
science. At first I was a little shocked at this stormy
instruction, but really it seems almost necessary now,
and produces wonderful results. If the girls only keep
their temper under it and do not cry, it comes right at
last; but a tear is an unpardonable offence, and considered
an insult and a total misunderstanding. Madame
Charrier is a woman of great experience and always
speaks to the point, and her lessons are often very useful.
From nine till ten we listen to M. Paul Dubois. I like
his lectures exceedingly. A little, bald, grey-haired man,
with a clear, gentle voice and a very benevolent face,
he thoroughly understands his subject, and expresses
himself with precision and completeness.
At a little after twelve our dinner-bell rings, and right
glad I always am to hear it. The large round tables are
speedily encircled, all stand up, and a grace is said with
such rapidity that to this day I can make out no words
but saint usage, and the sign of the cross made with
wonderful dexterity on the forehead and breast. At the
conclusion of the meal another prayer rocket is sent up,
amidst laughing and bustle, and all crowd out of the hall,
with their loaves of bread under their arms and all manner
of odd little pots full of eatables in their hands. From
one till two another lesson in the amphitheatre—which,
fortunately, is a pleasant room—from the second aide-sage-femme,
a lesson useful on the whole, but sometimes
a little wearisome. From two to three is the hour for
receiving visitors, but if I am not expecting a visit, and if
I have sat up the preceding night, I take a bath—for
there are six baths prepared every day at that hour for
the élèves. The same communism exists in the baths as
in everything else. They are side by side, in a double
row, down the middle of the room; and the withered
genius of the bath-room stands, observing every movement,
and talking an incomprehensible patois the whole
time. I try to imagine it is only the bubbling of water
that I hear; I shut my eyes, lie quietly for half an hour,
and fancy that I am deliciously reposing on the heaving
waters of some soft summer lake; then I spring up, take
a cold dash, to the horror of my companions, and hurry
off as fast as possible, really the better for the divine
element....
Were I a good Catholic I should find my time filled
with visits to the chapel—morning and evening prayers,
vespers, and the daily baptisms are regular services, with
numerous extras on saints’ days, &c.; but most happily
I am Protestant, and again and again I have blessed
Heaven for the fact. The great fat, red-faced priest
occasionally leaves the retirement of his clerical dwelling
and strolls in the wood, or makes a visit to the infirmary;
he always gives me long stares of excessive curiosity
when I pass him, but I have taken a great dislike to
his sensual-looking worship, and will not give him the
slightest opportunity to make my acquaintance....
After dinner, when fine, I generally go into our wood,
and, seating myself under my favourite tree, I write till
it grows dark; or I stroll up and down the broad alleys,
sending my thoughts far off into the past or the future.
It is very pleasant in our wood; outside the walls are
large gardens and public walks, so that the air is very
fresh, and the beauty of the Parisian summer climate is
extreme. Sometimes my friendly aide joins me, for she
cannot bear to see me alone; it seems to the French a
sign of deplorable melancholy. She walks with me,
chatting gaily, and bearing my clumsy French with great
patience; for, as I said, she has taken a fancy to me, and
I have to welcome with a good grace the pinches, shakes,
and similar tokens of French affection. Fortunately,
however, it shows itself in more satisfactory ways also,
and I owe many an opportunity for interesting observation
to her kindness. The girls look picturesque in the
wood by the sunset light. Sometimes a group is seated
on the grass round its chief, eagerly taking in the instruction
that may aid it in the next day’s examination;
others are singing or playing; but I think I have never
seen one engaged by herself in meditation or work.
Their character is eminently social, communicative. Mr.
Doherty remarked wisely that vanity, in its widest sense,
is their ruling spirit, which makes it impossible for them
to understand the English, where pride rules. There is
one young girl I like to talk with. I have never seen
anything more graceful, lively, and finished than the little
pictures of life which she throws off with perfect ease;
every motion of her pretty little head, every gesture and
intonation is perfect, and occasionally I am really startled
by a profound view of life that she just glances at, and
then is off again. I would give much to be able to note
down some of her narrations, but when I try to turn
them into another language their exquisite spirit seems
to vanish....
You must not be surprised if my letter contains an
immense number of perplexed parentheses, and has a
tendency to return always to the same subject. If you
could only hear ‘what hideous sounds salute mine ear,’
you would not wonder. The girls are singing hymns to
the Virgin in an adjoining room, and really, if the Virgin
be a lady of as much taste as beauty according to the
representations of Raphael, she must be considerably
annoyed by the zeal without knowledge displayed by her
admirers. Our second aide-sage-femme is a very pious
young Catholic, of really a sweet disposition. A week
or two ago, on the commencement of the month of
Mary, she assembled the girls together, reminded them
of the season, and proposed to meet frequently in the
evening and sing canticles in honour of the Lady, adding
that undoubtedly the object of their attention would be
gratified by this demonstration and would not be unmindful
of those who offered the homage. The proposition
was received with enthusiasm, and since that
unlucky day Mlle. Boisonnet and her followers have
exercised their lungs in season and out of season, to the
horror of all my nerves and, I fear, to the serious displeasure
of the Virgin. They have numerous little books
of canticles. I looked over the index the other day—‘Who
so pure as she,’ ‘The brightness of her presence,’
‘Mary, pray for us,’ and all such titles filled the pages.
The tunes have a striking resemblance to American camp-meeting
hymns. There is one which was certainly the
original of ‘Oh, let us be joyful.’ I often think, if H.
were only here, how he would join in honouring the
Virgin....
I must give you a few more sketches of my present
life. Imagine, then, that you have retired early to bed,
after a night spent in hard work, and the day in that
nervous mystification that follows loss of rest. You have
taken a refreshing bath and laid yourself down, encircled
by dear memories that fan you to sleep with their gentle
dreams; you have just entered that beautiful dreamland,
when you are suddenly startled by a scream, a burst of
laughter, and then the vision of one white-robed form
darting past in the twilight, pursued by a similar form,
mysterious to your veiled senses. The chase continues
over beds and boxes, while shouts of laughter, followed
by a shower of small articles, proceed from the other
beds; then a loud smack is heard, whose nature is easily
divined by those who are at all familiar with juvenile
offenders, a spring from the bed and a rush by the injured
party follow; but still you resolutely shut your eyes and
will yourself asleep, in the fond hope that nature is really
too tired to keep awake, when a sudden rolling sound,
followed by a violent shock, at once convinces you of the
vanity of your efforts, and you resign yourself to wakefulness,
for a favourite amusement has commenced—they
are ‘promenading the bedsteads’! You must know that
our bedsteads are of iron, and placed on rollers so
movable that a slight impulsion will speed them a considerable
distance. Often in stepping into bed the slight
movement has caused the mercurial article to describe a
sudden semicircle. This property of these usually sober
pieces of furniture is taken advantage of by the girls,
who are now in a frolic and exercising in the most
ingenious way, to the unspeakable annoyance of a quiet
individual. An impulsion is given to one end of a long
row of beds, which is quickly communicated to the whole
row, or a simultaneous shock is given to the two extremities
and their force brought to bear on the unfortunate
centre. But the favourite freak is to place a bedstead at
the end of the room and drive it with great violence down
the centre. The rolling noise over the brick floor is tremendous,
and accompanied by a regular Babel of laughter,
shouting, and jokes of every description. Some get on
top of their beds, which consist of three thick mattresses,
and jump up and down like mad things; others get up a
wild dance in one corner of the room, which grows continually
faster and noisier, and the strife of tongues is
truly astonishing. Their jokes are really amusing occasionally;
the scientific terms that they hear daily play a
conspicuous part. The frolic ends as suddenly as it
began, when, fairly full of fun, they suddenly jump into
bed, say good-night, and in five minutes all are sound
asleep. The first night I was thus rudely awakened I
was much inclined to be angry, but I philosophised a
little and came to the conclusion that it was my voluntary
action to be there, and that youthful spirits must have
free play. I pitied the poor children in their undeveloped
life and the restrictions they suffer here too much to be
disturbed by their little outburst, and the next morning
they begged me to excuse them because they were so
young!
My time is very fully occupied; my former leisure
moments are now employed in writing compositions and
taking observations. These last I willingly consent to; they
will be records to me of French practice. They consist
of a little history of the patient and a daily account of her
condition and treatment. But as they are in French, I
am somewhat longer in noting them down than I should
be if I could employ my own noble language. I have
made two ‘observations’ of surgical cases that have been
very much approved of. I was quite amused with one of
them. I was directed to note the case down under the
direction of my chief in that department. As usual, I did
promptly and cheerfully what was required; I wrote
all she dictated, and then I made a private memorandum
for my own satisfaction. This latter was seen by the
Superior, and immediately the ‘chief’ was directed to
copy it; she did it willingly, for she is a good little being,
and has a profound respect for the stranger. The other
day two of our chiefs begged me to give them a private
lesson on the circulation of the blood, which I willingly
complied with. We seated ourselves in the wood, and I
explained to them what they did not know; they were
very grateful, and have come to me several times since
to beg me to continue my lesson—indeed, the girls here
have a sweet nature in many respects. There are little
jealousies and excitements amongst themselves, but they
take the right relationship to me; they think me singularly
grave and self-sufficing, but they show me continually the
utmost respect, and are always glad to do me any little service.
I frequently enter the salle d’accouchements, when
the other divisions are engaged there, to see what is going
on, and I always meet a pleasant welcome. One evening
I phrenologised them, to their unbounded delight; for
some time after I could never enter the room without
being surrounded by a small mob eagerly demanding an
examination. Everything delights them; they are perfect
children in their full, unthinking enjoyment of the present.
A little English lesson is a never-failing source of merriment,
and I am continually saluted with some oddly
pronounced English word, followed by a burst of merriment.
We have girls from all parts of France; some are
remarkable for their stupidity, which is generally explained
by the province from which they arrive. Madame
Charrier’s morning lesson is an ordeal through which all
have to pass, and seated by her, every morning, I have
a fine opportunity for studying the various departments
of France. When some singularly obtuse intellect has
exhausted all the patience and all the impatience of the
teacher, she folds her hands and asks in a subdued voice,
‘Mademoiselle, from what department do you come?’ and
on receiving the answer, adds, ‘Ah, then it is all accounted
for; the case is a hopeless one;’ which announcement
greatly delights the rest of the class who belong to more
enlightened departments.
We have one élève who goes by the name of ‘La
Normande;’ she is one of my pictures. A fresh, healthy
complexion, browned by the sun and the sea air of her
beautiful home, regular features, a stout, vigorous frame
that has never known a touch of sickness, she walks
about with a step that feels the ground; in her white
quilled cap, and handkerchief pinned over her bosom,
she looks with her clear blue eyes right into your face,
and has a frank, loyal manner that marks her honest,
independent nature. On Sunday she dresses in the
short full petticoat, the silk-laced jacket, and the lace cap,
with its towering pyramidal crown and circular ray-like
border, that I think I have already described to you.
She sometimes visits our dortoir and forms the centre of
a group, whom she entertains with her constantly overflowing
life, sometimes singing, in a deep contralto voice,
her peasant hymns to the Virgin—simple pathetic melodies
chanted under the lindens when the day’s labours are
finished—or dancing vigorously the figures, more gay than
graceful, of her country, while she sings some lively air.
I admire her vigorous life, I like to see her in the infirmary;
she tends the sick with such an honest awkwardness,
such a kind heart, and lifts them like babies in her
strong arms, that I see the green fields and smell the
sweet country air as I watch her. Then I have a little
Parisian that I hang up beside her, as plump as a partridge,
with merry black eyes, glossy hair always arranged
à la mode, and full of little coquettish ways. Her temper
is like a lucifer match, the slightest friction fires it; the
smile and the tear are equally ready, though the sunshine
generally prevails. She has spent several years in business
in Paris, in cigar stores and similar employments,
where she has had much to do with gentlemen, and she
repeats to me the compliments they paid her, the offers
they made, and her own witty, contemptuous replies, with
the utmost naïveté. Poor child! she has been thrown on
her own simple instincts for protection, for her mother
was soon jealous of the attractions of her daughter, and
removed her to a distance; but the real innocence of her
heart, and a true attachment to a young ship’s surgeon,
seem to have supplied the place of her natural protectors.
But true to her Parisian blood, she has coquetted from
first to last, and she never talks to me now but I find it
playing in every dimple. Think of it! she was given me
as my ‘Chief of Theory’! Now she asks me in the
sweetest manner if I will come sometimes to her lessons,
and explain to the girls what she does not understand.
Poor child! I willingly oblige her.
But I must not weary you with my portrait gallery,
my walls are covered with curious figures; let me sketch
for you our ‘vaccinations,’ which take place every Tuesday
at one o’clock. The numbers of the babies are
distributed beforehand amongst the élèves who are to
perform the operations; thus, 25 Ste. Marie to one, 32
Ste. Marthe to another, and so on. The élèves seek their
babies and bring them into the Hall of the Nurses, a
large upper room, full already of women and babies. A
space is cleared by one of the windows, chairs placed; in
the centre sits M. Blot, the director of the operation; I
occupy a chair beside him. Mademoiselle, who superintends
another division, stands beside, and then baby after
baby is subjected to the awkward manœuvres of the élèves,
to their utmost dissatisfaction. The babies are very ugly
in their coarse hospital swaddling clothes; I never saw
the little beings so enveloped before. They are just like
mummies, but they perform a terrible concert altogether,
with the voices of the élèves to help them. I sit a quiet
spectator of the operation, occasionally addressing a
question to M. Blot as he touches knife after knife on
the arm of the infant before him; which question seems
rather to embarrass the handsome interne, for he colours,
or passes his hand through his hair and looks intently at
the baby, in a very un-Frenchmanlike manner. I think he
must be very young, or very much in awe of me, for he
never ventures to give me a direct look, and seems so
troubled when I address him that I very rarely disturb
his life in that way.
I think I have given you enough of my external
hospital life to enable you to picture me somewhat in my
surroundings; do you want to know how the spirit feels
in its curious home? Then know, dear friends, that it is
strong and hopeful, that it has moments of weariness, of
intense yearning for its true related life, but that it lives
ever in the great presence of the Eternal, and feels the
angels always near.
The difficult breaking-in to the practical work of
the obstetrician is noted in the journal of those
days; and also the pleasant comradeship which
gradually sprang up with the very intelligent young
physician who served as interne at that time; this
companionship was a great relief to my imprisonment
in La Maternité.
July 4.—Attended lessons by the aides-sages-femmes;
very clever instruction. Spent the day in the salle
d’accouchements, but was disgusted by the treatment
of a primipara. With all the instruction they have
received, the very first principles of humane treatment
seem too often neglected. They are still ignorant midwives
with their mischievous interference.... The version
seemed to me horrible. I almost fainted.... Spent
the night in the infirmary—weary work. I cannot bear
this loss of sleep.... To-day, three operations; much
interested in the morning, but grew weary and disgusted
in the afternoon.
July 22.—Attended the interne’s visit and spoke to
him about one of the patients; he replied so pleasantly
that I said a little more, and he promised to lend me a
medical journal to look over, and see how I liked it. The
little friendliness encouraged me....
August 12.—The poor woman whom I have attended
as my first complete patient gave me a little prie-dieu
which she had made. Her humble heart longs to express
its gratitude. I put it in my Bible where my friends are
reading to-day.... M. Dubois again waited after the
lecture to say a few pleasant words. He wished I would
stay a year and gain the gold medal; said I should be
the best obstetrician, male or female, in America! Had
quite a pleasant visit to the infirmary, where M. Blot
made me observe several interesting points, and answered
my questions intelligently and frankly....
August 24.—Quite taken by surprise at the infirmary
visit this afternoon. M. Blot met me so pleasantly, and
asked me to give him some lessons in English. I think
he must have been meditating this request for some time;
it had hardly the air of a spontaneous thought. I like him.
I hope we may come a little more closely together....
September 2.—I have been quite happy for three
hours. I must note down what I’ve learned. M. Blot
brought his microscope to the Infirmerie des Élèves. I
was exceedingly interested in his microscopic lecture.
He showed us in a work of M. Hébert’s the difference
between the epithélium pavimenteux, such as covers the
tongue, skin, &c., and the epithélium vibratile, as in other
parts, and the fibro-plastic formations in the reparation of
tissues, showing specimens of each kind. The first
species was represented by a cellule full of little cellules,
a noyau in the centre containing a nucleolus—thus....
The second was of elongated form, thus.... The third
represented the growth of fibre from cells, which cells
are distinguished from the first by the relatively smaller
size of the noyau, thus.... By such examination different
formations can be distinguished from each other;
thus cancer possesses very distinctive elements. It is
necessary to examine bodies of varying shapes under
different foci of the microscope, otherwise illusions may
be created. In illustration he placed some blood globules,
and showed us that what appeared a central spot in each
globule was owing to the convexity not being in focus,
and it disappeared when the focus was a little lengthened.
He spoke also of a paper read before a society yesterday
by a young physician, which proved that the azote, which
in the ox is voided by the excrement, in the cow is
absorbed into the milk; and that the difference in the
manure of the two is great.
He is busy himself now in preparing for an examination
of internes; if he gain the gold medal, he has the
right to enter any hospital he chooses as interne for a
second term, and receive also his M.D., not otherwise
granted to an interne. What chance have women, shut
out from these instructions? Work on, Elizabeth!...
To-day M. Blot spoke of a friend, Claude Bernard, a
distinguished young inquirer, who is now, he thinks, on
the eve of a discovery that will immortalise him—viz.
the discovery of an accessory circulation, by which substances
are sent directly to the kidneys without traversing
the general circulation, which will explain, for instance,
the rapid effect of champagne on the kidneys. This
second heart is situated in the ascending vena cava, close
by the liver; strong muscular fibres are evident in the
human subject, but in the horse are as large as quills.
He does not perceive yet what veins return the blood, if
his supposition be true. He also spoke of the power
which the liver has of secreting sugar in a normal state,
when animals are fed on certain substances which can be
so converted; also of the curious experiment by which
a dog was made, in his presence, to secrete albuminous
or diabetic urine, according to the pricking of one or
another point of the pneumogastric nerve near its
origin....[6]
At the afternoon visit we had quite a philosophical
discussion on society, &c. Mlle. Mallet was delighted
with a bon mot of M. Blot. She remarked that she understood
that les demoiselles had answered like anges.
‘Yes,’ he answered, ‘en ôtant le g.’ They had been unusually
stupid! She asked me if M. Blot were not rather
moqueur. I said I did not know, but that I had discovered
that he was very ambitious. His sentiments seem to be
good, but his character is certainly not French.
September 21.—M. Dubois stopped to speak to me
after the lecture, and again expressed his great desire
that I should remain a year in the institution. I told
him I had determined to remain another three months;
but I had many other branches to study. He replied
that anything else I might learn elsewhere as well as in
Paris, but that the opportunity of seeing all that was
remarkable in three thousand deliveries in that space of
time could be met with nowhere else in the world; that
it equalled the whole practice of most physicians, and he
was persuaded that I should regret it if I did not remain.
He parted saying he would talk the matter over again
with me. If it be pure interest that makes him urge this,
I am glad; but it seems to me now an impossible endurance.
October 4.—Another midnight scene—a strange spectacle
of suffering and of science. As I stood on the
crowded benches of the amphitheatre I heard the clock
strike one, the holy noon of night. I wondered how long
our sins would thus be fearfully visited upon us. The
rain beat in torrents on the skylight, the wind shook the
building, and I could look with intense interest on that
rare and dangerous accident submitted to our investigation—lithotomy,
the only way to save life; a tedious
operation lasting, I should think, an hour, for in the hurry
of midnight dressing I had forgotten my watch....
To-night I have been walking in the wood; the wind
blows fresh under the clear starlight. I am happier now
that my mind is clearly determined to leave at the end of
six months, with the conviction that my work here is
thoroughly done....
October 30.—Madame Charrier sent for me this afternoon
to present me with my portrait. It was a lithograph
picture of Elizabeth Blackwell, taken from a history of
sages-femmes célèbres. This lady, about 1737, published
a work on medical botany in two large folio volumes, in
order to get her husband, a medical man, out of prison,
where he was confined for debt.
I imagined a whole romance out of the picture, and a
little biography—a romance of a beautiful, true spirit,
struggling with a society too strong to be turned from its
ancient habits of evil. But the pure spirit is not lost, it
is working bravely still.
October 22.
Dear Friends, one and all,—Yesterday I spent
a delightful day—a day which I passed in doing nothing—and
it was so pleasant, so refreshing, that I must
tell you about it. I had laid out so many plans for
my first day of freedom. I was to see so many medical
people, and so many medical places, that I was almost
exhausted in the anticipation, and when my leave of
absence actually came, when all things worked right, and
I was neither en service, nor in the infirmary, nor in the
reception, and when moreover, for a wonder, it did not
rain, I just determined to give up everything like business,
forget there was such a thing as medicine or such a place
as the Maternité, and give myself up like a child to the
pleasure of looking and moving and eating, and everything
that was natural and nothing that was wise! In
fact, I found that I could really do nothing of business in
a satisfactory way in the short space of eleven hours, so my
troublesome conscience for once was quiet, and permitted
me to waste a day. I was really amused at myself to find
how anxious I was that it should not rain, and how impatient
I was for the moment to arrive when I could
leave, for by the rules of the place Anna must take me
out, and Anna must bring me back precisely at eight
o’clock! The directeur could not help laughing when he
informed me of these regulations; still, as he said, ‘no
exceptions could be made.’ Anna was anxious that I
should lose no portion of my short day. She woke up an
hour earlier than usual, with the sense of some weighty
responsibility resting upon her, which she could not at
first understand; but as the idea of the Maternité dawned
upon her she rose in haste, and at nine o’clock the
summons for Mademoiselle Blackwell was shouted forth
under the windows of my dormitory. You must know
that these sorties are quite an event to the élèves; they
gather about the happy departing one with all manner of
good wishes for her enjoyment and safe return. So while
one hooked my dress, another fastened my gloves, a third
arranged my collar, the rest admired with the often repeated
compliment, ‘Oh, que vous êtes belle!’ and all sped
me on my way with the pleasant greetings of their kind,
light hearts.
How gay and free and delightful the city seemed to me
after my four months’ imprisonment—four months shut
up within the high boundary wall of the institution, with
the sky above the tops of tall houses only visible, and all
life concentrated in a single subject! My chest seemed
to grow broader as I stepped over the threshold and saw
no barrier before me, but the beautiful Luxembourg
Garden on one side, and unending streets on the other.
The variety of busy life, the gay dresses, the cheerful
houses, looked charming to me. I was surprised to find
how strange everything seemed. I really saw Paris again
for the first time, and criticised everything as on my first
arrival. We walked down the long avenue that led from
the observatory to the garden. On each side are nursery
grounds on a much lower level than the great central
avenue; they form a large lake of trees and flowers on
each side the promenade. We descended into the beautiful
flowery labyrinth to admire the magnificent dahlias of
all colours and in immense quantities. The French are very
fond of what they call corbeilles. There is one in every court
of the Maternité; it is a large round plot of ground, filled
to overflowing with every variety of bright flower, enclosed
by a trellis-work that is covered inside and outside
by morning glories, nasturtiums, &c., so that it is nothing
but a hedge of flowers. The nursery grounds we walked
through were full of these, which sent forth a delicious
odour; and occasionally they were varied by an enclosed
grass plot, hollowed out, and kept in the most beautiful
order, with bright borders of flowers. As we ascended
to the garden I was struck by the noble trees, dressed
now in their varied autumn robes, through which the
marble statues and antique palace sparkled as brightly
as in the green summer time. We were saluted by
showers of dead leaves, which gave the children much
sport and the keepers much trouble. By the western
gate is the immense block of buildings in which Anna
has her pretty appartement. She introduced me to them,
for the change of residence had been made since my
retirement from the world, and I duly admired the elegant
furniture, carved ceiling, tasteful paper, and above all the
pretty look-out upon a long avenue of trees whose autumn
foliage shed a warm glow through the rooms. At half-past
twelve we hurried off to attend a magnetic séance
at the Baron Dupotet’s, which commenced precisely at
one o’clock; and finding the omnibus too slow, we jumped
into a cab with a lady who was bound on the same
errand.
Now I must describe a magnetic séance to you; but
I beg that you will receive the description with becoming
seriousness, for I have a decided respect for M. Dupotet,
and if any risibility should be excited it will proceed
from your own nervous imagination, and not from my
sober portraiture. These revelations of a higher sphere
of existence are received up several pairs of stairs, in the
back-room of a house situated in the heart of the city. It
is a large, somewhat darkened room hung round with
curious pictures, and lined with very curious people.
Mesmer occupies a large frame carved with firebrands
and anchors and other significant images; he looks
fixedly at a pale lady hanging opposite to him, who has
evidently undergone several magnetic crises. There are
some verses framed and hanging very near the ceiling,
surrounded by a thick wreath of yellow immortelles, but
I have not yet been able to decipher their meaning. On
the seats lining the walls about fifty persons assemble.
It is an original assembly always, though it seems to be
constantly changing. There was a lady with a small
hole in her cheek, a child with a crooked neck, and the
painter to the King of Sweden, with very light eyes and
hair and great impressibility, with his companion who
laughs and says, ‘Oui, monsieur,’ to every question addressed
to him; and the son of the English Consul to
Sicily, who displays a large amount of good clothes,
good flesh, a little peaked moustache, and an immense
amount of enthusiasm. But it would be difficult to give
all the varieties of structure and expression in this group
of believing heretics, some looking very fierce, some very
sheepish, some with features turned up, some with them
turned down, and some with them turned every way.
The folding-doors of this room open into a small cabinet
which is always opened on these occasions to receive
Madame Dupotet and all the impressible ladies who
form a circle inside, and go through many sympathetic
manœuvres during the magnetising in the larger room:
that is to say, the impressible ladies perform various
antics, for Madame Dupotet, who is fat, fair, and forty,
seems in no way affected, but looks on with smiling
health and assists the nervous ladies. There was one
remarkably fat dame, seated just within the folding-doors,
who had powerful fits of nervous twitching, which gave
her a singular appearance of pale, tremulous red jelly.
It would be impossible to describe the ornaments of
M. Dupotet’s study cabinet—the mystic symbols and
black-letter books of the Black Art; but there is a little
metallic mirror of oval form, traced with magic characters,
which exerts a truly wonderful effect upon impressible
subjects, exciting an ecstasy of delight or a transport
of rage; but always an irresistible attraction for all who
are affected by the magnetic influence. While M. Dupotet
has been displaying it to the one particular object of his
attention, half-a-dozen others steal up from all parts of
the room to seize the prize; one little old lady under the
magnetic influence came tottering up, with the drollest
expression of violent jealousy on her face, and with her
clenched fist prepared to fight the other equally eager
disputants for the possession of this wonderful mirror.
Unfortunately, this particular meeting passed without
any of those singular occurrences which are said sometimes
to electrify the spectators. I heard much of the
ecstasy of a young man which had thrilled every person
present—believer or non-believer—the meeting before, in
which the ordinary law of gravitation seemed to be
superseded, and the entranced soul would actually have
fled up into the heaven it was striving for had not M. Dupotet
clasped the body tightly in his arms and commanded
it back! But though no miracle was wrought,
the faithful audience hung with intense interest on every
manifestation of simple magnetic power; the aspiring
features assumed a higher aspect, the downward ones
bent more determinedly, and the red jelly became more
tremulous at every fresh magnetisation; and when the
séance closed everybody shook everybody’s hand, and
found it good to have been there.
Now, do not think my picture is a caricature—verily,
I am very serious. There is an odd side to all reformers,
to all who are pursuing a new idea earnestly, that is very
whimsical. I am obliged to laugh at it; and yet I have
true respect for M. Dupotet. Though he believes in
ancient magic, though he lives in the hope of working
miracles, I really believe him to be an honest, enthusiastic
man, engaged with his whole soul in pursuing what
seems to him the most important of all discoveries. His
manner is perfectly unpretending, his conversation full
of good sense; for twenty-five years he has pursued the
same object, through suffering and ridicule and failure.
He is honest, I am sure; how much truth he may possess
I am at present quite unable to say; for my position,
whilst it has given me occasional glimpses of his proceedings,
has given no power of really investigating them;
but some time I hope to really study magnetism.
As we walked back we stopped at the Louvre; I
longed to see again that rich collection of art, particularly
the statues, that seemed more beautiful than ever. We
called in the Rue de Seine, hoping to gratify my old landlady,
but she was out. Then Anna introduced me to her
reading-room, where we studied the affairs of Europe,
and grew indignant at the barbarism which seems for the
moment triumphant. Anna took great pleasure all day
in filling me with all manner of eatables, having great
faith in ‘the very best beef,’ and I must confess that
when dinner was concluded my dress felt a little tight at
the waist!
Punctually at eight o’clock the recluse retired again
from the vanities of the world. But, seriously, the idle
day refreshed me; I needed it, and feel all the better for
a little change.
October 24.—A most pleasant occurrence. Professor
Lee, my Geneva Professor of Materia Medica, is in town,
and is coming to see me to-morrow. He has been
making a tour of two months in Great Britain, and now
he visits Paris. How glad I shall be to see him, as a
friend whom I respect, and with whom I can have a long
delightful gossip! perhaps also he can give me information
and some advice and introductions.
October 25.—By these most absurd regulations I was
not allowed to show Dr. Lee over the hospital when he
called. However, the directeur escorted him, and M. Blot
offered an introduction to Ricord.
Although the residence in La Maternité was an
extremely trying one from the utter absence of privacy,
the poor air and food, and really hard work when
sleep was lost on the average every fifth night, yet
the medical experience was invaluable at that period
of pioneer effort. It enabled me later to enter upon
practice with a confidence in one important branch
of medicine that no other period of study afforded;
and I have always been glad that I entered the
institution, notwithstanding the very grave accident
which now befell me.
This event was noted at the time as follows:—
Sunday, November 4.—Served all day in the infirmary,
and witnessed M. Dayau’s first application of the serrefine.
I felt all the afternoon a little grain of sand, as it
were, in one eye. I was afraid to think what it might be,
for in the dark early morning, whilst syringing the eye of
one of my tiny patients for purulent ophthalmia, some of
the water had spurted into my own eye. It was much
swollen at night, and in the morning the lids were closely
adherent from suppuration.
November 5.—I applied for permission to leave until the
eye was well, and was refused. I went to the infirmary
of the élèves and informed M. Blot that I was prisoner.
He examined the eye carefully, discovered that it was
the dreaded disease, consulted his chief, and then told
me that as everything depended on the early active treatment,
he should give up the first days entirely to me.
He expressed much sympathy, arranged everything for
me in the most thoughtful way, and I went to bed—I
little knew for how long! I despatched a note to my
sister, and then active treatment commenced—the eyelids
cauterised, leeches to the temple, cold compresses, ointment
of belladonna, opium to the forehead, purgatives,
footbaths, and sinapisms, with broth for diet. The eye
was syringed every hour, and I realised the danger of the
disease from the weapons employed against it. Poor
Anna came down in the evening to sympathise with the
‘inflamed eye’ I had written about, and was dreadfully
shocked. She has told me since how many times she
hid behind the curtain to cry. My friendly young doctor
came every two hours, day and night, to tend the eye,
Mlle. Mallet acting in the alternate hours. The infirmary
was kept profoundly quiet, and a guard appointed day
and night. The sympathy was universal and deep, the
élèves asking after me with tears. An unheard-of permission
was granted to Anna to visit me three times a
day. For three days this continued—then the disease
had done its worst; and I learned from the tone of my
friends that my eye was despaired of. Ah! how dreadful
it was to find the daylight gradually fading as my kind
doctor bent over me, and removed with an exquisite
delicacy of touch the films that had formed over the
pupil! I could see him for a moment clearly, but the
sight soon vanished, and the eye was left in darkness.
For three weeks I lay in bed with both eyes closed,
then the right eye began to open gradually, and I could
get up and do little things for myself. How kind everybody
was! I shall never forget it. Anna, with her faith
in magnetism, came down regularly three times a day in
rain and snow to sympathise and impart ‘the vital fluid.’
My friendship deepened for my young physician, and I
planned a little present for his office. Madame Charrier
entered into it with spirit; we had long discussions together,
and finally secured an elegant pair of lamps for
his consultation-rooms, which I hurried through the corridors
to see, bundled up in my dressing-gown and shawl,
looking and feeling very much like a ghost. The lamps
were conveyed to his room that night. The next morning
he came to me evidently full of delight, and longing
to be amiable, yet too conscientious to infringe the rules
of the Maternité by acknowledging the present. He
admired my braid of long hair, wondered how fingers
without eyes could arrange anything so beautifully regular;
spoke of the Protestant religion, thought if he joined
any Church it would be that; turned to go, turned
back again, and was evidently hardly able to leave
without thanking me. Mlle. Mallet told me that the
night before he had run in to Madame Charrier to tell
her of his present, and on his way out passed by the
cloisters in an evident perplexity, longing to enter the
infirmary of the élèves, but unable to do so. I do admire
his delicate conscientiousness!
I received a visit from M. Davenne, who had sent me
a message of sympathy. I could not clearly make him
out with my dim eye, but had a general idea of a short,
elderly man standing hat in hand, and regarding me
as one would a solemn religious spectacle. M. Boivin
made some very friendly remarks to me, and concluded,
raising his hand, ‘et, voyez-vous? c’est d’une patience.’
‘Angélique!’ replied M. Davenne.
Saturday, 22nd.—Oh, how happy I am at this moment,
for Dubois has just left me, understanding for the first
time the justice of my determination to obtain a full
medical education, and obliged to confess that I was
right in principle. I shall have my congé, and a hope of
cliniques and study in the Eccentric hospitals. Heaven
has answered that heart-cry of the other night.
Wednesday, 26th.—Off actually! I dressed for the first
time. Bandaged and veiled; the carriage drove to the
door, Anna guided me in. I made kind adieus, caught
glimpses of stone walls in the cold dull light, and thus
ended my Maternité life. I felt very weak, and laughed
hysterically the whole evening.
The following letter, written at this time to an
uncle, an officer in the British army, shows the
important support which the mind can render the
body in combating disease:—
Dear Uncle,—I thank you with all my heart for the
kind sympathy you have expressed for me so warmly.
Fate certainly gave me a strange and sudden blow, but
now I am up again strong and hopeful, and eager for
work, and I beg uncle to feel quite sure that a brave
soldier’s niece will never disgrace the colours she fights
under; but will be proud of the wounds gained in a
great cause, and resolve more strongly than ever to
‘conquer or die.’ In truth, dear friends, the accident
might have been so much worse that I am more disposed
to rejoice than to complain. Even in its present
state the eye is not a very striking disfigurement, and it
will gradually become still less so. As to the more
serious consideration—loss of vision—I still hope to recover
that in time, and meanwhile the right eye grows
daily stronger. I can write without difficulty, read a
little, and hope soon to resume my usual employments.
I certainly esteem myself very fortunate, and I still mean
to be at no very distant day the first lady surgeon in the
world.
I find from your letters that there is a possibility of
your visiting Paris. I should rejoice in the prospect of
meeting you, if my own stay were certain; but it is by
no means so. I have already accomplished much in
France, but I find it very difficult to proceed further;
still, I cannot yet judge decidedly of my prospects. I have
just received permission from Government to visit the
hospitals, which is encouraging, and one opening may
lead to others, so that I may still hope to meet you some
day, unless you should grow frightened at the idea of my
scalpel and lancet, and feel uncertain how far the ties of
relationship may modify the experimental researches of
the medical student!
Believe me, very truly,
Your niece,
Elizabeth Blackwell.
But the six months which followed my departure
from the Maternité proved to be a time of great mental
suffering, under which a strong physical constitution
threatened to give way; for the condition of the
affected organ entirely prevented that close application
to professional study which was needed. Both
anatomical and surgical work were out of the question;
and even reading had to be laid aside. I
followed a few lectures and some cliniques at the
Hôtel-Dieu, by permission of M. Roux, and engaged
a répétiteur, but this was quite inadequate to accomplish
the end in view.
In June of 1850 a visit to the fine mountain air
of Priessnitz’s famous establishment at Gräfenberg
was resolved on, in the hope of regaining strength
and power of study. Travelling rapidly through
France, Germany, and Prussia, in five days I reached
the famous water-cure region. On the journey a
day had been spent in Berlin, where I had been
struck by the arrogance of the Prussian officers, and
the fear which was expressed by a friend with whom
I talked freely in Kroll’s Garden lest conversation
should be overheard!
Freiwaldau, at the foot of the Gräfenberg, was
full of Kurgäste; but, being warned by a lady to
whom I brought an introduction that it would be
impossible for a lady to go alone to the Gräfenberg
Hotel, for it ‘was full of gentlemen who went about
in their shirt-sleeves,’ I was rather perplexed as to
where to go. A home letter describes this curious
experience:—
Gräfenberg, 3 p.m.—On a shady seat on the brow of
a hill commanding a most beautiful prospect. Dearly
beloved people, this cometh to you from a very watery
person in a very watery place. The sound of water is
heard everywhere. But I must give you some particulars.
Not being able to find lodgings in Freiwaldau, I
left word for Priessnitz to call, and was sitting in my
little upper room at the hotel, feeling decidedly blue,
when the door opened and in walked a middle-sized,
elderly man, with sun-burnt face marked with the smallpox,
with grey hair, light-blue eyes, a pleasant expression
of face, and dressed in country-best style. I liked
his appearance, ’twas honest and good. He examined
me very closely with his little blue eyes all the time I
was explaining my wishes. Then, in his abrupt manner,
he told me he could make me quite strong in about six
weeks, and the cure would do no harm to my eye.
When I told him that I was informed Gräfenberg was
quite full, he said, ‘You can come, child; come this
afternoon, and bring your things with you,’ and off he
went. I felt quite relieved to be spared the bother of
lodging-hunting and housekeeping. I determined to
face the innumerable gentlemen in shirt sleeves, and let
properness go; if the Gräfinn did not like my position—why,
she might dislike it! When I reached the place of
my destination I was a little confounded. At the very
top of the house, with bare rafters for the roof and the
wall, a row of little windows a foot high let into the roof
above my head, a wooden crib full of straw, three wooden
chairs, a table, and low bureau with a green earthenware
bowl; this was my room and its furniture. I must have
looked rather dismayed, for the girl hastened to inform
me that I had an Italian count and countess for my next-door
neighbours, and that there were eight ladies and
eight gentlemen on the same floor, and that we should
be out in the woods all day. Of course I could say
nothing when I found I had such noble neighbours, or
rather when I found that it was really the last vacant
room in the house!
When the bell rang for tea I was shown into an
immense hall that might seat 500 people, gaily painted,
and ornamented with chandeliers. I sat down and found
myself, to my utter amazement, beside a row of ladies in
grand toilette gossamer dresses with short sleeves and
waists a little lower than I thought waists were ever
worn; hair dressed out with curls and flowers, bracelets
(I counted five on the arm next me) and rings to match!
The long tables were covered with alternate bowls of sour
and sweet milk, and brown bread and butter. The bread
looked inviting, but when, with difficulty, I had sawn off
a morsel, it was so sour that I could hardly swallow it;
but the milk was good, and I did it justice. People kept
coming in in groups, very merry, but all talking German;
the gentlemen, I presume, were in shirt sleeves, but as
they were all covered with coats, I was not shocked!
The next morning early I went through a series of
hydropathic operations, at which Priessnitz assisted, as
he always does the first time. The course never varied—viz.
packing, a half-bath, a plunge bath, a wet bandage,
and some glasses of cold water at six o’clock in the
morning; an Abreibung, sitz bath, and another wet bandage
at twelve o’clock; ditto at four p.m., and water ad
libitum all through the day.
The diet is plain, but every morning an old woman
opens a white-bread shop outside the dining-room, to
which almost every one is customer. Each one comes in
from the early morning walk, buys a roll, and marches in
with it under his arm; and morning and evening the
little strawberry gatherers offer the Alpine strawberries,
with their fine wild-wood flavour, for sale.
Everybody seems to have a good appetite. My own is
ravenous; a half-day in the open air, rambling over these
fine mountain-sides, stimulated by the wind and the
abundant really living water, I find myself suddenly in
strong, vigorous health, and the idea of sickness seems a
fable.
At first I felt very lonely in such a large assembly;
but now I speak to a good many, and I have found one
young American, Mr. Glynn, who seems like a brother in
this concourse of strangers. He is about twenty-two,
nearly blind from amaurosis, but one of the ‘smartest’
fellows I have ever met; quick as a flash, full of Yankee
shrewdness, he bears his terrible misfortune with real
heroism, and has rendered me numberless little services.
There are several mountain-sides laid out with walks
innumerable. The favourite early morning walk is to the
Priessnitz spring; you wind round and up the mountain,
partly through open, sweet-smelling fields, partly through
pleasant fir woods, passing several springs by the way,
each with its name and inscription and rustic seats
around; at each you stop and drink, chat a little with
those you meet, and perhaps sit down for a few moments.
It is very sweet at this hour: the leaves smell so fresh, the
beautiful flowers are covered with dew, and the cuckoo is
heard in the woods all day. This stroll generally occupies
two hours....
It is very amusing to watch the people. Gräfenberg
is the rage in Germany; all classes are represented here.
The Countess von Westhalp offers to introduce me to a
fashionable English circle in Freiwaldau, headed by Lady
Darley; and to our great indignation the ‘butcher’ Haynau,
notorious for his barbarities, made his appearance
here one day. In the house we have gymnasium, billiard-room,
library, theatre, and balls frequently take place....
Priessnitz has 500 patients under his care, and with
their friends they amount to hundreds more. You see
him sitting at the head of one of the large tables, three
times a day, looking very pleasant. He is quiet and
simple in manner, but has a very determined mouth.
They say he is proud of having been an Austrian serf.
His pleasant-looking daughter is married to an Hungarian
baron.
These foreign titles are really a farce. I am here in
my loft one day, in slippers and old dressing-gown, when
a knock comes to my door. When I open it, a tall, black-whiskered
foreigner appears, who presents the respects of
Mme. la Princesse Obolenska, and hopes I will call upon
her when I next go to Freiwaldau. The man made quite
sure that I was I—as well he might, for I never had
quite such queer surroundings.... I paid my visit, a
professional one, after all. I had to put up with four
gulden, instead of the honour; but she was a simple,
pleasant lady, and we parted on the pleasantest terms.
This was, in fact, my first regular professional consultation.
The air and water, however, of that lovely region,
with the constant outdoor life and endless rambles
over the Bohemian mountain-sides, proved too
stimulating to the still sensitive organ: a violent
attack of inflammation supervened. With great difficulty
I returned to Paris, and placed myself under
the care of the famous oculist Desmarres. This
gentleman rendered me the most skilful and generous
aid. In the course of a few weeks he restored me
to active work again, although the sight of one eye
was permanently lost, and the intention of making
surgery a speciality necessarily abandoned.
During this trying period of Parisian study, my
cousin, Mr. Kenyon Blackwell, a South Staffordshire
ironmaster, was endeavouring to promote my strong
desire to study in one of our London hospitals. He
applied to the able and highly esteemed dean of St.
Bartholomew’s Hospital, who presented the application
to the treasurer. The subject was referred to
the Medical Council of the hospital. The result
was forwarded to me as follows:—
At a House Committee held on Tuesday, the 14th
day of May, 1850, a letter addressed to the treasurer
from Mr. Paget, communicating to him the request of
Miss Elizabeth Blackwell, a lady well connected in this
country and the United States, to attend as a student in
the wards and other departments of the hospital, was
read, when the treasurer reported that the same had been
referred to the Medical Council, and the opinion of all the
members of the council having been read, and Mr. Paget
having attended and furnished the committee with such
information as was required, it was resolved:
‘That in the opinion of this committee Miss Blackwell
should be admitted as a student under such regulations
as the treasurer and almoners may from time to time
deem necessary.’
James Paget, Esq.
The ticket of admission forwarded at the same
time granted permission to study in any ward, and
follow the visit of any physician or surgeon who was
willing to extend to me the facilities of his department.
The permission was accompanied by a
cordial welcome from the dean, Mr. James Paget,
M.R.C.S.
This was indeed joyful news. I could now in
an open and honourable way, no longer regarded with
suspicion, but protected by the highest medical sanction,
devote myself to the unlimited field of practical
medicine so cordially thrown open to me, and which
I ardently desired to study. I hastened to London,
and, after some little difficulty in obtaining lodgings,
on account of being a lady, alone, established myself
in rooms in Thavies Inn, then a delightfully quiet set
of houses, entered by an archway from busy Holborn.
Every morning after breakfast I now regularly
betook myself to the hospital, spending many hours
there daily, and making the Faith wards, under
Dr. Burrows, my headquarters; but Messrs. Lawrence,
Stanley, and Lloyd courteously welcomed me
to their wards. Indeed, every department was cordially
opened to me, except the department for female
diseases!
Kind old Dr. Hue was always ready to show me
cases of interest, and he took me by an underground
passage, which led to Christ’s Hospital, to taste the
famous pea-soup made for the lads of that old
Foundation school.
I particularly valued the special visits of clinical
observation, without students, which Dr. Baly and
Mr. Kirkes were making.
Mr. Kirkes was preparing a new edition of his
excellent ‘Student’s Physiology,’ and Dr. Baly was
pursuing his valuable investigations on dysentery.
In relation to the latter, it is noted in my journal:
‘He is so gentle, so friendly, and so learned in his
art, that he teaches me more than anyone else.’
I also attended Mr. Paget’s admirable lectures on
pathological anatomy, given in the amphitheatre.
My seat there was always courteously reserved for
me. I experienced also the utmost consideration
from the students, a large class of whom always
followed Dr. Burrows’s visits. Indeed, so natural
did this innovation of a lady student soon become,
that when, the following year, I paid my farewell
visit to the treasurer, he remarked, to my great
gratification, ‘Why, we had quite forgotten you were
here!’
Many home letters mark the various incidents
of this extremely interesting period of study.
London, 28 Thavies Inn: November 1.
Dear Friends,—When I arrived in London on
October 3, I was actually dismayed by the intolerable atmosphere,
the dense envelope of foggy smoke that made me
sick during the day and kept me awake at night; and as I
continued to make observations on persons and things,
and finally settled down in my present prosaic lodgings,
I asked myself with astonishment, Is this the same London
I saw a year and a half ago, or is it a different person
examining the same objects? But now, happily, that
state of forlornity has passed away. I have almost forgotten
the smoke; my lodgings are clean and convenient.
I am making friends, and I shall use all the opportunities
I can get for studying social subjects and seeing society,
provided they do not interfere with my work and are not
too expensive.
My first introduction to St. Bartholomew’s was at a
breakfast at Mr. Paget’s. He has a house within the hospital
boundaries, and a special oversight of the students.
At the commencement of each session he invites the
students to breakfast in parties of about a dozen, and to
one of those breakfasts I, on my arrival, was invited. The
students seemed to be gentlemanly fellows, and looked
with some curiosity at their new companion; the conversation
was general and pleasant, the table well covered,
Mrs. Paget very sensible and agreeable, so that it was
quite a satisfactory time. Soon after I was invited to meet
a distinguished German gentleman, Professor Kölliker,
whom I found most agreeable and intelligent. My old
acquaintance, Professor Owen, entertained us with traditions
of London. Dr. Carpenter was also present, and
some of the older students, looking very amiable, though
awkward. The gentlemen I find more friendly than
the ladies; I fear I shall find them in the shocked
phase this winter. There are, however, a few decided
exceptions....
But now I am going to tell mother of a visit which I
made yesterday on purpose to amuse her—viz. to our old
Bridge Street minister, Dr. Leifchild, whose christening
of me I distinctly remember! Between three and four,
on my return from hospital, I set out determined to hunt
up the family, and after searching directories and trudging
several miles, and being wrongly directed, when I
finally inquired at No. 5 Camden Street, a quiet, respectable
house, whether Dr. Leifchild was in, I listened
with great relief to the announcement that he was probably
taking his nap. I was ushered into a large plainly
furnished parlour, where sat Mrs. Leifchild, sewing by a
round table in the middle. My childish recollection had
retained a general impression of the person, though I
should not have recognised her. She is seventy-two, and
wearing spectacles, but does not look more than fifty, so
fresh, plump, and pretty, though unfortunately so deaf
that she could only hear an occasional word. I announced
myself. She replied, ‘I remember the family
well. Mr. Blackwell was deacon in the chapel. You
are one of his sisters.’ I could hardly make her believe
that I was third daughter. She remembered A. and M.
well; said they were clever girls; she knew they would
turn out something remarkable, but she had no recollection
of me. Their son John came in at that moment—a
tall, thin man, reminding me of the Lane Seminary
student, Jones. I don’t know whether I ever saw him
before. Of course the doctor was sent for to see the
stranger. I recognised him at once, and should have
known him anywhere—fat, rosy, and laughing, notwithstanding
his grey hair. I did not detect anything of the
old man in him. ‘Ah,’ said he, ‘I know that face,’ and
then he made me take my bonnet off and occupy a large
chair by the fire, and tell him all about the family, and
particularly my mother. ‘A sweet creature she was!
How I should like to see her again! Doesn’t she talk
about visiting England? I wish she would.’ He spoke
of father with great affection, as a true friend. He had
received most beautiful letters from him. ‘If my
memoirs are published, one of his letters will appear in
them.’ They had been told that the two eldest Miss
Blackwells were very dashing girls, and wanted to know
the truth. Then, why had I come to England? I told
him I had been doing a rather singular thing; I had
been studying medicine. He looked at me to see if I
were in earnest, and then burst out into such a hearty,
merry laugh that I joined in with all my might. ‘Yes, I
had obtained a diploma as doctor in medicine.’ ‘You—doctor!’
and then another hearty laugh. Of course Mrs.
Leifchild wanted to know what we were laughing at.
‘Why, my dear, that girl there is Doctor in Medicine!’
and then I must give them the whole history; and I
certainly never had three more attentive listeners, interrupted
by the doctor’s exclamations: ‘Bless me, what she
has done; what she has suffered! Why, the girl’s a
genius! Where did she get it all from? Why, no man
could have done what she has done!’ And if ever I
stopped, John would say, ‘Now, Miss Blackwell, pray go
on; it’s the most interesting narrative I ever listened to;
you left off at Paris.’ I was much amused. To that
little family, who had been staying so quietly at home in
the same routine, it did sound like a romance. When I
had done, the doctor declared ‘it was a capital thing—it
was the beginning of a new era.’ And John at once
brought out pen and paper and begged me to give him
my autograph. The doctor said the Rev. Mr. May, from
America, was an old friend and class-mate who had
visited England about two years ago, and he graphically
described their interview. When Dr. L. opened the door,
he started back. ‘No! Yes! It isn’t—it is! It can’t
be possible! It is very certain; but won’t you let me
in?’ From Mr. May he learned that the eldest of the
Blackwells had become Socinians; and then I must give
an account of my religious faith. Of course I spoke up
for myself. I told him my religion was certainly a little
peculiar; but nevertheless it was a very good and very
strong one—and he didn’t seem much troubled about the
state of my soul; indeed, I believe that, on the whole, he
considered that it was a little safer than most of the
ladies’ of his acquaintance! So, mother, I beg you to
take the same view of the matter. Altogether, I met
with the heartiest reception. The doctor placed all his
influence at my service, and Mrs. Leifchild will write you
all the news of your old Bristol friends. So I hope you
approve of my calling....
Now I am writing in a queer place—viz. one of the
wards of St. Bartholomew’s, whilst awaiting the visit of
one of the physicians. This famous old hospital is only
five minutes’ walk from my lodgings, and every morning,
as the clock strikes nine, I walk down Holborn Hill,
make a short cut through the once famous Cock Lane,
and find myself at a gate of the hospital that enables me
to enter with only a side glance at Smithfield Cattle
Market. ‘Punch’ had really frightened me by his account
of the dangerous tumult of animals; but, happily, I need
only glance across the open space, forgetting the bulls,
pigs, &c., that occupy it now, and also the fearful fires of
persecution once lighted there, and try to bring back the
time when it was lined with gay tents, and surrounded
by galleries filled with beauty, eager to witness the brilliant
encounters of arms that took place there in the age
of tournaments. Now a little dark figure with doctorial
sack and writing-case under arm makes its way through
assembling students, who politely step aside to let it
pass, and entering the museum, studies its numerous
preparations till the hour of lecture, when an attendant
shows it to a seat. I only attend regularly one course of
lectures—viz. Mr. Paget’s very interesting course on
pathology. Mr. Paget spoke to the students before I
joined the class. When I entered and bowed, I received
a round of applause. My seat is always reserved for me,
and I have no trouble. There are, I think, about sixty
students, the most gentlemanly class I have ever seen.
I have been here about ten days. There are so many
physicians and surgeons, so many wards, and all so
exceedingly busy, that I have not yet got the run of the
place; but the medical wards are thrown open unreservedly
to me, either to follow the physician’s visits
or for private study; later, I shall attend the surgical
wards. At first no one knew how to regard me. Some
thought I must be an extraordinary intellect overflowing
with knowledge; others, a queer, eccentric woman; and
none seemed to understand that I was a quiet, sensible
person who had acquired a small amount of medical
knowledge, and who wished by patient observation and
study to acquire considerably more. One of the old
physicians takes much interest in the strange little
doctor, and has given me valuable hints from his own
experience; but I confess that this system of practice is
both difficult and repellent to me; I shall, however, study
it diligently. Mr. Paget, who is very cordial, tells me that
I shall have to encounter much more prejudice from
ladies than from gentlemen in my course. I am prepared
for this. Prejudice is more violent the blinder it is, and
I think that Englishwomen seem wonderfully shut up in
their habitual views. But a work of the ages cannot be
hindered by individual feeling. A hundred years hence
women will not be what they are now.
The growing perplexity of the conscientious
student awakening to the uncertainty of the art of
medicine is now apparent in letters written at this
time.
November 20, 1850.
Dear E.,—I want to talk to you seriously about the
future—that is to say, my medical future. It has been a
heavy, perplexing subject to me on what system I should
practise, for the old one appeared to me wrong, and I have
even thought every heresy better; but since I have been
looking into these heresies a little more closely I feel as
dissatisfied with them as with the old one. We hear of
such wonderful cures continually being wrought by this
and the other thing, that we forget on how small a number
the novelty has been exercised, and the failures are never
mentioned; but on the same principle, I am convinced
that if the old system were the heresy, and the heresy
the established custom, we should hear the same wonders
related of the drugs. Neither hydropathy nor mesmerism
are what their enthusiastic votaries imagine them to be.
At Gräfenberg I could not hear of one case of perfect
cure, and unfortunately the undoubtedly great resources
of cold water are not so developed and classified as to
enable a young practitioner to introduce it, professedly,
into his practice. Mesmerism has not converted me
since watching its effects on patients. I do wish most
heartily that I could discover more of the remedial agency
of magnetism, for my conviction is that it ought to be
powerfully beneficial in some cases; and as I find they
have a magnetic dispensary here in London, I shall certainly
try and attend it frequently. I am sorry that I
have been unable hitherto to attend more to homœopathy,
the third heresy of the present time, but I am trying now
to find out opportunities. Here I have been following now
with earnest attention, for a few weeks, the practice of a
very large London hospital, and I find the majority of
patients do get well; so I have come to this conclusion—that
I must begin with a practice which is an old-established
custom, which has really more expressed science
than any other system; but nevertheless, as it dissatisfies
me heartily, I shall commence as soon as possible building
up a hospital in which I can experiment; and the very
instant I feel sure of any improvement I shall adopt it in
my practice, in spite of a whole legion of opponents.
Now E., future partner, what say you—is it not the only
rational course? If I were rich I would not begin private
practice, but would only experiment; as, however, I am
poor, I have no choice. I look forward with great interest
to the time when you can aid me in these matters, for I
have really no medical friend; all the gentlemen I meet
seem separated by an invincible, invisible barrier, and the
women who take up the subject partially are inferior. It
will not always be so; when the novelty of the innovation
is past, men and women will be valuable friends in medicine,
but for a time that cannot be. I spend now about
three or four hours each day in the wards, chiefly medical,
diagnosing disease, watching the progress of cases, and
accustoming my ear to the stethoscope. Already, in this
short time, I feel that I have made progress, and detect
sounds that I could not distinguish on my entrance. I
advise you, E., to familiarise yourself with the healthy
sounds of the chest. When you go home, auscultate all
the family; you will find quite a variety in the sounds,
though all may be healthy persons. Lay a cloth over the
chest and listen with the ear simply; it is as good as a
stethoscope with clean people. I wish I could lend you
my little black stethoscope that I brought from the
Maternité.
I have been disappointed in one thing here—the Professor
of Midwifery and the Diseases of Women and Children
wrote me a very polite note, telling me that he
entirely disapproved of a lady’s studying medicine, and
begging me to consider that his neglecting to give me
aid was owing to no disrespect to me as a lady, but to
his condemnation of my object.
By-the-by, I must tell you of a scientific explanation
of the toughness of meat which I obtained from Mr.
Paget’s lecture the other morning; it arises from cooking
meat during the rigor mortis! Would not that be a delicate
suggestion for a squeamish individual?...
28 Thavies Inn: 1850.
Dear Dr. Dickson,—I believe that my kind preceptor
and earliest medical friend will be interested in a little
account of my foreign life.
My request for permission to attend St. Bartholomew’s
Hospital was cordially granted, and I have received a
friendly welcome from professors and students. I have
the full rights of a student granted to me. I do not
attend many of the lectures, but confine my attention
chiefly to the practice of the hospital, and at present,
more particularly, to the medical practice. If I remain
through the summer, I shall gradually extend my visits
to the surgical and other wards, as I am particularly
anxious to become widely acquainted with disease. I am
obliged to feel very sceptical as to the wisdom of much of
the practice which I see pursued every day. I try very
hard to believe, I continually call up my own inexperience
and the superior ability of the physicians whose actions I
am watching; but my doubts will not be subdued, and
render me the more desirous of obtaining the bedside
knowledge of sickness which will enable me to commit
heresy with intelligence in the future, if my convictions
impel me to it. I hope you will forgive this confession of
want of faith, which I do not venture to make to my present
instructors, for the English are in general too conservative
to have sympathy with unbelief, however
honest.
I do not find so active a spirit of investigation in the
English professors as in the French. In Paris this spirit
pervaded young and old, and gave a wonderful fascination
to the study of medicine, which even I, standing only on the
threshold, strongly felt. There are innumerable medical
societies there, and some of the members are always on
the eve of most important discoveries; a brilliant theory is
almost proved, and creates intense interest; some new
plan of treatment is always exciting attention in the
hospitals, and its discussion is widely spread by the
immense crowds of students freely admitted. The noble
provision of free lectures, supported by the French Government,
increases this tendency; the distinguished men
who fill the chairs in these institutions have all the
leisure and opportunity necessary for original investigation,
and a receptive audience always ready to reflect the
enthusiasm of the teacher. I have often listened to some
of these eloquent men in the College of France, their
natural eloquence increased by the novelty or brilliant
suggestions of the subject, till I shared fully in the enthusiasm
of the assembly; and then, in the excited feeling of
the moment, I would enter with some friend into the
beautiful adjacent garden of the Luxembourg, and, sitting
down at the foot of some noble statue, we would prolong
the interest by discussion; while the brilliant atmosphere,
the trees, the wind and the water, the fine old palace and
the varied groups of people moving amongst the flowers,
contributed to the charm of the moment, producing some
of the intensest pleasurable sensations I have ever enjoyed.
I cannot wonder that students throng to Paris, instead of
to the immense smoke-hidden London; here there is no
excitement, all moves steadily onward, constantly but without
enthusiasm. No theory sets the world on fire till it
is well established, and the German observers are much
more studied than the French. Everything is stamped
by good sense and clear substantial thought; my respect
is fully commanded, but I often long for a visit to the
College of France and a stroll in the Luxembourg.
Whilst devoting all my daytime to the rare
advantage of practical study so providentially opened
to me, the evenings were in another direction equally
delightful and beneficial. I was sitting, one dull
afternoon, in my bare lodging-house drawing-room,
somewhat regretfully thinking of the bright skies of
Paris and pleasant study under the trees of the
Luxembourg Garden, when the door opened and
three young ladies entered, and introduced themselves
as Miss Bessie Rayner Parkes and the Misses
Leigh Smith.
This proved the commencement of a lifelong
friendship. These ladies were filled with a noble
enthusiasm for the responsible and practical work
of women in the various duties of life. They
warmly sympathised in my medical effort, and were
connected with that delightful society of which
Lady Noel Byron, Mrs. Follen, Mrs. Jameson, the
Herschels, and Faraday were distinguished members,
and with which the Rev. Mr. Morris and the
Hon. Russell Gurney were in full sympathy.
My young friends hung my dull rooms with their
charming paintings, made them gay with flowers,
and welcomed me to their family circles with
the heartiest hospitality.
A bright social sun henceforth cheered the somewhat
sombre atmosphere of my hospital life; for
when the day’s duties were accomplished there was
always some pleasant social gathering, or some concert
or lecture attended with friends, to refresh the
medical student. I often walked home from my
friends in the West between twelve and one at night
(being too poor to engage cabs), not exhausted, but
invigorated for the next day’s work. Lady Noel
Byron became warmly interested in my studies. I
went with her to Faraday’s lectures, visited her at
Brighton, and she long remained one of my correspondents.
One of my most valued acquaintances was Miss
Florence Nightingale, then a young lady at home,
but chafing against the restrictions that crippled her
active energies. Many an hour we spent by my
fireside in Thavies Inn, or walking in the beautiful
grounds of Embley, discussing the problem of the
present and hopes of the future. To her, chiefly, I
owed the awakening to the fact that sanitation is
the supreme goal of medicine, its foundation and its
crown.
My acquaintance also with Professor Georgii, the
Swedish professor of kinesipathy and the favourite
disciple of Brandt, whose consultation-rooms in
Piccadilly I often visited, strengthened my faith in
the employment of hygienic measures in medicine.
When, in later years, I entered into practice, extremely
sceptical in relation to the value of drugs
and ordinary medical methods, my strong faith in
hygiene formed the solid ground from which I
gradually built up my own methods of treatment.
Looking back upon a long medical life, one of my
happiest recollections is of the number of mothers
whom I influenced in the healthy education of their
children.
Letters written home at this date indicate the
vivid interests of the time.
November 1850.
Dear E.,—The great topics of the day here are the
Great Industrial Exhibition and Popery.
On November 5 the bells were ringing and the boys
hurrahing for ‘Gunpowder Plot Day.’ This anniversary
was celebrated with more enthusiasm than usual from
the Pope’s having appointed a Cardinal Archbishop of
England, and ‘No Popery’ placards are posted everywhere.
The great building of iron and glass for the Exhibition
is rapidly rising in Hyde Park, and the papers in this
rank-loving country duly inform us whenever Prince
Albert comes in from Windsor to inspect its progress,
and furthermore that the Prince is modelling a group of
statuary, and the Queen designing a carpet, to figure in
the display. The last time I was at the Twamleys’ we
drove round to see the building, which is a curious sight
from the delicate appearance of the immense quantity of
iron framework; it looks too fragile to support a crowd,
and yet it will hold myriads. There is a splendid old
elm tree which they have enclosed in the building, and
his great black arms look in strange contrast to the surrounding
tracery.
December 24, 1850.
Dear M.,—I was just stretching myself after breakfast,
and thinking that I must put on my boots and turn
out into the horrible fog that was darkening daylight,
when your welcome letters came, and it being holiday
time I treated myself to an immediate perusal. I must
beg you not to imagine me sitting in a large bare room
in an inn. The term ‘inn’ is only applied in this case to
a particularly quiet and respectable little street. The
term ‘Inns of Court’ means a number of buildings round
an open court, withdrawn from the street, entered by an
arched passage under some house, and used now or at
some former time for law purposes. That was the origin
of Thavies Inn; it was formerly a portion of an old law
court, and is particularly proper, having iron gates at the
archway, which are shut at night, and a porter living in
the little house at the entrance, who is always on the
look-out for beggars or other un-respectable characters;
and the way in which a little barrel organ that has
managed to slip in is ‘shut up’ at the first bar has
always amused me, and provoked me at the same time.
The room also, which was bare enough at first, has
assumed a much more homelike aspect since two young
friends sent me some pictures to hang on the walls, and
a portfolio of paintings, with a little stand on which to
place a new one every day; and having turned the sideboard
into a bookcase, I can assure you it looks quite
comfortable when I have drawn the round table to the
fire and settled down for the evening.
Your letter alludes to many topics of interest. First
of all this ‘Woman’s Rights Convention,’ held at Worcester,
Mass. I have read through all the proceedings
carefully. They show great energy, much right feeling,
but not, to my judgment, a great amount of strong, clear
thought. This last, of course, one ought not to expect in
the beginning; but in my own mind I have settled it as
a society to respect, to feel sympathy for, to help incidentally,
but not—for me—to work with body and soul. I
cannot sympathise fully with an anti-man movement.
I have had too much kindness, aid, and just recognition
from men to make such attitude of women otherwise
than painful; and I think the true end of freedom may
be gained better in another way. I was touched by the
kind remembrance of W. H. C., which placed my name
on the Industrial Committee; and if I were in America
and called on to attend I should certainly send them a
note full of respect and sympathy; but I must keep my
energy for what seems to me a deeper movement. But
I think you did perfectly right to act on the Education
Committee, and if I can send you any information I will
gladly do so. But I feel a little perplexed by the main
object of the Convention—Woman’s Rights. The great
object of education has nothing to do with woman’s
rights, or man’s rights, but with the development of the
human soul and body. But let me know how you mean
to treat the subject, and I will render you what aid I
can.... My head is full of the idea of organisation,
but not organisation of women in opposition to men. I
have been lately meditating constantly on this idea, and
seeking some principle of organisation which should be
a constantly growing one, until it became adequate to
meet the wants of the time.... This horrible fact of
immorality has weighed upon me fearfully since I came
to London, for I believe in no city in the world does it
show itself so publicly as it does here. In Paris it is
legalised and hidden, and is recognised and profitable as
a branch of the Government!
In the United States it is not so old and widespread
(written in 1850); but here in London it has been let
alone, has taken an unrestrained course, exists to a
fearful extent, and shows itself conspicuously in its lowest
form. At all hours of the night I see groups of our poor
wretched sisters, standing at every corner of the streets,
decked out in their best, which best is generally a faded
shawl and even tattered dress, seeking their wretched
living; and many aching hearts I have seen looking
through the thin, hungry features. But I will not pain
you farther; you know the general fact, though you have
never had it pressed home to you in a thousand ways, as
I have. My great dream is of a grand moral reform
society, a wide movement of women in this matter; the
remedy to be sought in every sphere of life—radical
action—not the foolish application of plasters, that has
hitherto been the work of the so-called ‘moral reform’
societies; we must leave the present castaway, but
redeem the rising generation. In my own mind I have
divided my ‘Union’ into many branches, several of which
I see Mr. Channing has proposed for this ‘Woman’s
Rights Society.’ Education to change both the male and
female perverted character; industrial occupation, including
formation of a priesthood of women; colonial
operations, clubs, homes, social unions, a true Press, and
many other things, have been among my visions; and
the whole so combined that it could be brought to bear
on any outrage or prominent evil. In England I should
seek to interest the Queen, and place her, as the highest
representative of womanhood, at the head of this grand
moral army. Indeed, many of my modifications naturally
fit themselves to English society, which is immediately
around one. When I return to America, of course the
European mould of my thoughts will drop off, and fit
itself to the New World; but it never can be an anti-man
movement.... One thing now pleases me much; all
the women seem to like me, from the aristocratic Miss
Montgomery, bosom friend of one of the Queen’s maids
of honour, down to the humble sisters of the hospital,
all welcome me, and many with enthusiasm. I have
passed several delightful evenings with Mrs. Follen, Mrs.
Jameson, and the Chapmans; the De Morgans, Morells,
and many others are unceasing in their kindness. I find
these people varying in religion and everything else, but
all alive and open to progressive ideas—if they are not
shocked back. There seems to be a very large class of
this kind, who are not united in any special effort, but in
whom the true ideas are germinating, which will some
time—perhaps in their children, for things move slowly
in England—reach a perfect development. It is my
impression, for I ought only to put it in that modest form,
that the corresponding class in America is less humane,
more addicted to money-getting and party spirit; and
that reform ideas in America are much more talked of,
but less acted on....
April 4, 1851.
Dear E.,—I have been very gay lately, with so many
social entertainments. One evening at the Hon. Miss
Murray’s I saw the Duchess of Buckingham, Duke of
Argyll, Marquis of Lansdowne, and many distinguished
people, Sir Lyon Playfair, Sir John Herschel, the Speaker
of the House of Commons, &c. But my studies go
steadily on, and I do enjoy going round with Dr. Baly;
he is so gentle and friendly, and so learned in his art,
that he teaches me more than anyone else. I wish I
could go round with him oftener....
But I must tell you of a delightful three days’ visit
that I made to Lady Byron at Brighton a week ago. I
had heard her most highly spoken of, and her connection
with the poet has thrown a romance around her; so
when I received through Miss Montgomery an invitation
from her, stating that she had herself paid some attention
to medical matters and would be most happy to see me,
and that her friend Dr. King would do the honours of the
well-arranged hospital at Brighton, I determined to accept,
and give myself a three days’ treat. I arrived in Brighton
one bright, blowing afternoon. Nearly three miles of
good stone houses face the broad sea, the road in front
of them forming a delightful elevated promenade open
to the spray and the Atlantic winds. In the distance at
one extremity was Beachy Head, at the other the projecting
point that hid Portsmouth, and far out, dim in the
distance, lay the Isle of Wight. Bare, rounded, green
hills formed the background to the town. In the bow-windowed
parlour of one of these large stone houses I
was set down, and soon after, Lady Byron, who had been
to the railroad to look for me, entered—a slender, rather
small, but venerable-looking lady of sixty, with fair complexion,
delicate features, and grey hair. She welcomed
me kindly, and conversed for a little while with a gentle,
benevolent manner, but a voice that had a very sad tone
in it. I found that she was a confirmed invalid, and
learned afterwards that she had never recovered from the
blow caused by the conduct of her husband, whom she
had worshipped with real idolatry. Then we went out
to see the sunset and some electrical apparatus, and
on our return I was introduced to Mrs. Jameson, the
authoress, who was paying a little visit, and to Dr. King,
a beautiful old gentleman, more of a philosopher, however,
than a physician. The next morning I had a
delightful tête-à-tête breakfast with Mrs. Jameson, who is
a charming person with a warm Irish heart, an exquisite
appreciation of art, and a deep interest in all high
reform. Meanwhile it had begun to rain and the wind
battered the house furiously, but nevertheless I went in
the carriage with Dr. King to visit the hospital and a
famous manufactory of mineral waters. I returned in a
hurry to go off with Mrs. Jameson and hear Fanny
Kemble read ‘Macbeth.’ This was a great treat, for I
had never heard Shakespeare well given. I had caught
a glimpse of Fanny Kemble the evening before, when
Mrs. Jameson had brought her back from reading the
‘Midsummer Night’s Dream.’ She entered the parlour
for a few minutes, throwing open the door and declaiming
a tragic Shakespearian quotation, dressed in rose-coloured
satin, with a crimson mantle trimmed with white fur, a
large bouquet in her bosom, her jet-black hair braided
low down, with large black eyes, and a grand, deep-toned
voice. She sat on the sofa beside Lady Byron—a most
strange contrast. She was really magnificent in ‘Macbeth,’
dressed in black velvet trimmed with ermine, and
Mrs. Jameson, who sat beside me, was in raptures.
The longer I saw Lady Byron the more she interested
me; her insight and judgment are admirable, and I never
met with a woman whose scientific tendencies seemed so
strong. She seemed well versed in medicine and was
her own physician, having consulted many physicians
who were quite unable to aid her; she has for many
years taken particular interest in labour schools, and has
some admirably arranged on her estates. I much enjoyed
my conversation with her, for she has a rare intelligence
and a long experience. On Sunday she took me to hear
a most eloquent preacher, a Mr. Robertson, who preached
on the wisdom of Solomon and Christ. He is now in
the Established Church, but will, I imagine, soon work
himself out, for he is continually progressing, and has
already drawn upon himself much persecution from his
professional brethren. I certainly never heard his equal
in torrent-like eloquence; it was quite a flood.
How gloriously the wind howled round the house at
night! As I lay in bed and listened to the wind and the
heavy swell of the waves, it was delicious. There is a
pier built far out into the water as a private promenade.
I had a beautiful walk there all alone one evening at
sunset as the tide was coming in. On Sunday afternoon
I was obliged to leave my new friends. Lady Byron, in
a purple velvet mantle lined with white silk, a rich dress,
and a purple satin bonnet trimmed with black lace, escorted
me to the cars and put me into the second class,
which economy obliged me to take. With the most
hearty shake of the hand we parted, and we have exchanged
several notes since I returned, for, as I said, she
interests me, and I want to know more of her.
I have a standing invitation to Mrs. Jameson’s Thursday
evening meetings, of which I shall try to avail myself
frequently. Life opens to me in London, social life particularly;
but I am looking with pleasure to my return.
I am too impatient to begin my practical career to be
able to stay anywhere much longer where that is not to
be commenced....
April 7.—Miss Murray invited me to see the Queen’s
favourite little German baron, but I did not accept; for to
go such a distance on foot or in omnibus in my silk dress
to meet people with whom I should probably have little
sympathy, and to whom I should only seem a quiet, ill-dressed
person, seemed to me foolish.... Spent the
evening at Mrs. Follen’s. Miss Montgomery told me a
very strange story of her father’s ‘double’ appearing to
her and her brother when they were children playing
together during his absence in London. They were
amusing themselves by dressing-up in clothes taken from
a closet on the staircase, when, hearing their father’s
study door open and fearing reproof, they shut themselves
in the closet, watching through a crack of the door
their father in his dressing-gown with a candle in his
hand slowly ascend the staircase. They then remembered
that their father had gone to London, and rushed
up to their mother’s room, where she was dressing for a
party, exclaiming, ‘Papa has come home! We saw him
come out of the library with a candle in his hand and go
upstairs.’ The authority of this story was unimpeachable,
the details minute. What must one think of it?...
April 17.—Went down with my friend Florence to
Embley Park. The laurels were in full bloom. Examined
the handsome house and beautiful grounds.
Saturday a perfect day. Walked much with Florence
in the delicious air, amid a luxury of sights and sounds,
conversing on the future. As we walked on the lawn in
front of the noble drawing-room she said, ‘Do you know
what I always think when I look at that row of windows?
I think how I should turn it into a hospital ward, and
just how I should place the beds!’ She said she should
be perfectly happy working with me, she should want no
other husband.
April 20.—A beautiful Sabbath morning. Saw the
sea and Isle of Wight in the distance; watched the
peasants’ picturesque scarlet cloaks going to church.
As we crossed the fields, conversing on religious matters,
it was a true communion....
May 1.—A most brilliant opening of the Great Exhibition.
Thanks to Cousin S., who is an exhibitor, we
enjoyed a sight which we shall always remember. The
place was so vast that the musical sound of the great
organ was lost in the beating of the air. The great building,
resplendent with the products of the whole world,
was filled to overflowing with enthusiastic spectators.
When the Queen, holding Prince Albert’s arm, with the
young Prince of Wales on one side and the Princess
Royal on the other, followed by the aged Duke of
Wellington arm in arm with the Marquis of Anglesea,
and a long train of nobility and distinguished men, made
the tour of the building and declared it open, it was
indeed a memorable sight.
The advisability of remaining in England and
establishing myself in practice in London was
seriously considered at this time. Under other
circumstances I should gladly have made the
attempt, for I was strongly attracted to my native
land. But I was extremely poor, with no capital to
fall back on, and with a great horror of running
into debt; neither had I any circle of family friends
to aid me, and whilst I saw the importance of a
settlement in London, I realised also its difficulties.
Meanwhile the years of my study in America had
produced their effect there. Popular feeling had
sanctioned the effort. In both Philadelphia and
Boston attempts were being made to form schools
for women. My sister Emily also had adopted the
medical life. She had entered the Medical College
of Cleveland, Ohio, and was looking forward to
joining me ultimately in the medical work; my
own family also, to whom I was warmly attached,
were fully expecting my return.
I determined, therefore, after much anxious consideration,
to make my first settlement in New
York, hoping in ten or fifteen years’ time to have
attained a position, when I might be able to work
in England. The parting from English friends and
opportunities was a painful one.
London: May 5.
I gave the day to Florence, who is about leaving,
uncertain whether she will see me again. We heard
Mr. Ellis lecture at the National Association on Political
Economy. We also visited the Verral Hospital, but were
not favourably impressed by the judiciousness of the
exercises. Dined with her at the Bracebridges’, and
parted from her with tears.
May 20.—Visited Guy’s Hospital, Dr. Oldham doing
the honours most kindly. The museum is the best for
study that I have yet seen. There are about 600 beds in
the hospital; twenty are for midwifery, especially under
Dr. Oldham’s care, providing about 1,800 cases in the
year, and looked after by four young students, who are
maintained by the hospital for that purpose. There was
a room especially devoted to electrical treatment. The
whole establishment bore the marks of wealth.
July 15.—Wished Dr. Oldham good-bye, who expressed
great friendliness, wished to see my sister
should she visit England, and offers to make an application
for admission to Guy’s Hospital....
July 17.—Said good-bye to Mr. Paget, Dr. Burrows,
Dr. Hue, &c.—in fact, cut my connection with the hospitals.
Did it with much regret; all were extremely kind, expressing
the utmost interest and respect for the work.
Mrs. Paget introduced me to a lady as ‘a benefactor to
the race,’ and hoped to hear of me through Mr. Paget.
He spoke of the perfectly satisfactory nature of the experiment,
and that it may be done by another lady under
similar circumstances, but not as a simple student, he
thinks. Dr. Burrows also was extremely friendly, and
paid me indirectly the highest compliment, as having
‘established a principle for others, by the success of my
laudable enterprise; he thought that quite a new idea
had been gained in this matter, which would help anyone
else in future.’ I found also, with mingled sadness and
triumph, that now I might do anything I pleased at St.
Bartholomew’s. They have learned to know and welcome
me as I am going away, and are, as Mr. Paget said, sorry
to lose me.
Saturday, July 19, 1851.—I have wished all good-bye,
and am now ready to go. Much as I regret
England, my deepest feelings are with my work, which I
always carry with me.... Bessie P. spent part of the
day with me. We parted with a few cheerful words, but
I saw her face colour with emotion as she looked back
and saw me watching her from the door. Beautiful, true
heart! it grieves me deeply to part from her....
Monday, 21st.—Left London at seven o’clock. A. turned
from me in tears. I felt very sad as I looked at her thin
face and thought of all she has suffered, and will suffer....
In the evening I met a cordial welcome at Dudley....
Howy and I made an expedition to Worcester and
Malvern; it gave us an opportunity for much intimate
conversation. We had lovely weather, and found the
country exceedingly beautiful. Rode up the Worcestershire
Beacon on donkeys, eating, talking, and laughing
at our entanglement with other parties, and enchanted
with the prospect; there was a tent on the hill, and
parties dancing. We slid all the way down, and walked
by Gully’s and Wilson’s water-cure establishments.
Visited the noble old Worcester Cathedral, but looked in
vain for our crest of arms, said to be there on the
windows. Went over Grainger’s china manufactory;
the production of cups and saucers on the wheel was
like magic....
To Liverpool, but found the ship would not sail until
Saturday. The very sight of it made me sick; so Cousin
S. accompanied me to Manchester, where we had a very
interesting visit. Mr. Wilson, an intelligent business
man, escorted us over a large cotton manufactory. It
was of exceeding interest. Eight hundred looms were at
work in one room; mostly tended by women and many
very young girls. We commenced our inspection by
descending by ropes deep down into the vaults, where
the cotton arrives from America and India; we then proceeded
through room after room where all the processes
were conducted, from breaking up the bales, tearing to
pieces, sorting, carding, forming into sheets, twisting,
spinning, weaving, and finally measuring and folding the
cloth. We went up and down, by movable trap-doors,
underground from street to street, all through the immense
establishment. The noise was tremendous, the
dust and heat oppressive. I noticed closely the workwomen,
who seemed brutified by their toil; their physiognomies
were assuming the projecting mouth of the
lower animals. Most of them carried their hair-comb stuck
in the back of their head; they were mostly youngish
women, sallow and perspiring, and I noticed one woman so
exhausted that she was obliged continually to sit down;
they had often more than one loom to feed. They keep
the men and women separate in their work as far as
possible....
Saturday, 26th.—Actually my last day on this noble
British land! I left pale good Cousin S. standing in the
street of Dudley; watched dear H. running up the railway
bank as I rushed off in the train; and then I felt
that I was indeed severed from England, and only anxious
to get through my journey. I found myself at night on
board ship, out in the Mersey. Another most important
page in life fairly closed!
Adieu, dear friends! Heaven keep us all!