May 1, 1714.
A cursed country, a cursed people! Brandy, blood,
and dirt! It is difficult to say which is the ruling
characteristic. Dirt, perhaps. The Danish King had
good reason to say: “The next time ambassadors from
Muscovy come to me, I will have pig-sheds erected for
them, for any place they occupy, even a short time, is
rendered uninhabitable for at least six months by the
stench.” A Frenchman describes the Muscovite as a human
being according to Plato; a featherless biped possessing
all human qualities except cleanliness and common sense.
And these stinking savages, these baptized bears, more
pitiable still when changed into apes of Europeans, consider
themselves the only human beings, the rest of mankind
beasts. Especially for us Germans they feel an
inborn and invincible hatred; our touch alone defiles
them. Lutherans are little better than Satan himself in
their eyes. I would not remain another moment in Russia
were it not for my duty of loyalty, and devotion to her
Highness, my most gracious mistress and dear friend, the
Crown Princess Sophia Charlotte. Whatever may happen,
I will not forsake her!
I will write this diary in the languages I usually speak,
German and French. But some of the jokes, proverbs,
songs, text of ukases and bits of conversation, I will give
in Russian and afterwards translate them.
My father, a pure German, belongs to an ancient family
of Saxon Knights. My mother was a Pole. With her
first husband, a Polish nobleman, she had lived for a long
time in Russia, not far from Smolensk, and knew the Russian
language well. I was brought up in Torgau, at the court of
the Queen of Poland, which was frequented by many
Muscovites. I have been familiar with the sound of Russian
speech since my childhood. I speak badly; I don’t
like the language, but understand it well.
I have decided to keep a diary in order to ease my
heart, when it is too heavy: imitating the talker of old,
who, not daring to confide his secret to people, whispered
it to the marsh-reeds.
I should not like these notes ever to become public, but
I rejoice to think that they will one day be read by a man
whose opinion I value more than anything else in the
world—that of my great teacher, Gottfried Leibnitz.
His letter came just as I was thinking about him. He
asks me to find out about the salary which he claims on the
strength of his position in the Russian service, as Geheimer
Justiz-Rath. I fear he will never see the money. Reading
his letter I almost wept for joy and sadness, when I remembered
our quiet walks and talks in the galleries of the
Salzdallen Castle, along the lime avenues of Herrenhausen,
where the gentle breezes among the trees and the murmur
of fountains seemed to be ever singing our favourite song
from “The Mercure Galant.”
“Chantons, dançons, tout est tranquille
Dans cet agréable séjour.
Ah! le charmant asile!
N’y parlons que de jeux, de plaisirs et d’amours.”
I remembered the teacher’s words which at that time I
almost believed: “I am a Slav as you are; we ought to
rejoice that we have Slavonic blood in our veins. A great
destiny awaits the race. Russia will link Europe to Asia
and reconcile the East and the West. This country is
like a new stewpot which has not yet absorbed any foreign
flavour; a sheet of white paper, whereon you can write
anything you like; virgin soil which will be broken up,
and ploughed to receive new seed. Russia might in time
even lead Europe, since she may avoid those errors which
are too deeply rooted in us.” An inspired look lit up his
face as he concluded, “I seem called by Providence to be a
Russian Solon—the lawgiver of a new world. To gain
supremacy over the mind of such a man as the Tsar, and
direct it for the good of the people is of more worth than
the gaining of a hundred battles.”
Alas! My poor great dreamer! Could you but know
and see all I have learnt and seen in Russia!
Even now as I am writing, sad and stark reality reminds
me that I am no longer in the delightful refuge at Herrenhausen,
that German Versailles, but in the depth of Muscovite
Tartary.
Through the window, screams, shouts, and quarrellings
reach me from below; the servants of our neighbour,
Princess Natalia, are fighting ours; Russians fighting
Germans. I see, alas! the union between Asia and Europe,
the East and the West, as it really is.
In ran our secretary, pale and trembling, his dress in
tatters, his face bleeding. On seeing him the Crown
Princess almost swooned. The Tsarevitch was sent for,
but he was suffering from his habitual complaint—drunkenness.
May 2.
We occupy the palace of the Crown Prince Alexis, situated
on the banks of the Neva, a whitewashed, two-storied house
with a red-tiled roof. The accommodation is so limited
that nearly the whole of her Highness’s retinue had to be
lodged in the neighbouring houses, hired by the Senate
for that purpose. One of them had neither doors, windows,
stoves, nor furniture of any sort. Her Highness was
obliged to finish it at her own expense, and add stables to it.
Yesterday, the proprietor of the house, a certain Gedeónoff,
returned; he is in Tsarevna Natalia’s service: he
ordered our servants to be turned out, and our things to be
thrown into the yard. Then he began to lead her Highness’s
horses out of the stables and put in his own instead.
The Crown Princess ordered the stables to be taken down
so as to remove them to another place. But when the
Stallmeister brought the workmen, Gedeónoff sent some
of his, who beat ours and chased them away. When the
Stallmeister threatened to report this to the Tsar, Gedeónoff
answered laughingly: “Report as much as you like; I
will forestall you!”
But worst of all is the fact that he assures us, he does
everything by order of the Tsarevna. This Tsarevna is an
old maid, and the vilest tempered creature in the world.
She is very amiable to our face, but when our back is
turned, every time her Highness’s name is mentioned she
spits, saying: “The German minx! what airs she gives
herself! The time will come when she will have to cultivate
a little modesty!”
Thus our grooms are obliged to sleep in the open. So
limited is the accommodation in the whole town that the
men could not be lodged elsewhere, even for a hundred
pieces of gold. When this is mentioned to the Tsar, all he
replies is, that in a few years time there will be houses
enough. But they won’t be needed then, at least not for
our people, who, for the most part, will probably have
died.
They would not believe in Europe if they knew what
poverty is ours. The money for the maintenance of the
Crown Princess is paid so irregularly and scantily that it
never suffices. At the same time everything is frightfully
dear here; we have to pay for things four times as much as
in Germany. We are in debt to all our tradesmen; they
will soon stop supplying us. To say nothing of
servants, we ourselves are sometimes short of candles,
firewood, even food. Nothing can be got out of the Tsar,
he is always busy. The Tsarevitch is always drunk. “The
world is full of misery,” her Highness said to me to-day,
“ever since the age of six I have known no happiness, and
no doubt Providence has still greater misfortunes in store
for me.” With an absent look, as if she already beheld
this future, she repeated: “I shall not escape it,” and with
such calm resignation that I found no words to comfort
her and could only silently kiss her hand.
Suddenly a cannon shot was heard. We were obliged to
make haste and get ready for a pleasure party on the Neva,
a “Water Assembly.”
It is the custom here, on hearing the gun signal or seeing
the flags hung out at different parts of the town, for all
barges, yachts, wherries, boyers, to assemble at the fortress.
A fine is imposed for non-appearance.
We set out at once in our boyer with ten oarsmen.
Together with other boats we kept rowing for a long time
up and down the Neva, always following the Admiral,
daring neither to lag behind nor overtake, for fear of being
fined. Fines are imposed here for everything.
There was music; a band of trumpets and cornets.
The bastions of the fortress re-echoed the sounds of the
music.
We were sad as the music was, and the cold, pale blue
river with its flat banks, the pale blue sky, transparent as ice,
the gleam of the golden pinnacle on the Church of St. Peter
and Paul, (built of wood, but painted yellow to suggest
marble,) the melancholy chiming of the striking clocks, all
intensified our dejection, which was of quite a different
nature from anything I had hitherto experienced, except
in this city.
And yet the view is pleasing enough. Along the low
quay, paved with black tarred piles, runs a line of pale
pink brick houses of elaborate design, resembling Dutch
churches with pointed turrets, garret windows on the
high roofs, and spacious latticed vestibules. You might
fancy a real town lay behind them. But next behind them
stand poor huts roofed with birch-bark and turf, and,
further back, a wilderness inhabited by wolves and deer.
On the sea front, windmills just as in Holland. Everything
is bright, almost dazzling, and, at the same time,
pale and cheerless. It seems to be run up, made just for
the time being. It is a phantom town, a dream.
The Tsar with all his family were in a special boyer; he
stood at the rudder and steered. The Tsaritsa and Princesses
wore dimity jackets, red skirts, round oil-skin caps,
everything after the Dutch fashion—they looked like
real sailors’ wives from Saardam. “I am inuring my
family to the water; those who want to live with me must
not be afraid of water,” said Peter. He generally takes
them with him; especially in cold weather. He locks
them in a cabin and steers the whole time against the wind,
until he has well rocked them, and “salvo honore,” made
them sea sick; then only is he content!
We were afraid lest it might be decided to go to Kronslot.
Those who took part in one such excursion last year (they
think of it with terror even to this day), were overtaken by
a storm, and narrowly escaped drowning; then they went
aground fast on a sand bank, and remained there for
several hours up to the waist in water. At last
they succeeded in reaching an island, a fire was made, and,
quite naked (they had been obliged to take their wet
clothes off), wrapped themselves in coarse sledge covers
obtained from the peasants, and in this way they spent a
whole night, warming themselves at the fire, without drink
or food—new Robinson Crusoes.
But this time Providence favoured us; the red standard
on the Admiral’s boyer was lowered, a sign that the excursion
was over.
We returned along the canals, viewing the town.
Canals are very numerous here. “God grant me a long
life, and Petersburg will become a second Amsterdam!”
boasts the Tsar. “Arrange everything as it is done in
Holland,” these are common words in the Tsar’s ukases, in
reference to the building of the town. The Tsar has a passion
for straight lines, everything that is straight and
regular seems beautiful to him. If it were possible he
would have had the whole town built according to rule and
compass. The inhabitants are urged to build in lines, no
building either to exceed or fall short of a fixed line, so
that the streets and lanes may all be regular and straight.
Houses which go beyond the line are ruthlessly pulled
down.
The Tsar’s pride is the interminably long, straight
Nevsky Prospect, which cuts through the town. The
street is still quite waste amid solitary marshes, yet it is
already planted with three or four rows of lime-trees,
like an avenue. It is kept very clean, being swept every
Saturday by captive Swedes.
Many of these geometrical lines of imaginary streets
are almost without houses. Waymarks alone stand
there; others, already built on, bear traces of the plough
and furrows of recent cultivation.
Though the houses are erected of brick, according to
Vitruvius’ directions, yet so hurried and precarious has been
the work that they threaten to fall. When a carriage
passes they tremble. The swampy soil has no resistance.
The Tsar’s enemies predict that some time the whole town
will be engulphed.
One of our companions, the old Baron Loewenwold, the
High Commissioner of Livonia, an amiable and clever
man, told us a number of curious incidents about the
beginning of the town. In order to raise the first earth
rampart of the Peter and Paul fortress, dry earth was
needed; none was to be had anywhere near, all being
marsh, mud and moss. Then they devised the plan of
carrying the soil for the bastions from distant places in old
bast sacks and mats, or even simply in the skirts of their
tunics. At this Sisyphean labour two-thirds of the poor
wretches perished; more especially in consequence of the
godless peculation and faithlessness of those in whose
keeping they were. For months they never saw any bread,
which is often difficult to procure even for money in this
forlorn place. They lived on cabbage and turnips, suffered
from diarrhoea and scurvy, swelled with hunger, froze in
their earthen habitats, which resembled the holes of animals,
and died like flies. The erection of the fortress on
the Pleasure Island (appropriate name!) cost the lives of
hundreds of thousands who were driven here by force
like cattle from all parts of Russia. In fact this unnatural
city, this pleasant “Paradise,” as the Tsar called it, is
built on human bones! They pay no ceremonies here either
to the living or the dead. I myself have seen in various
parts of the town the body of a workman wrapped in a mat,
carried on a pole by men, or, bare as it was, simply laid on a
sledge and taken to the cemetery, where it was buried
without any rite. Such a number of the poor folk die here
daily that there is no time to give them all Christian burial.
One hot summer day, rowing on the Neva, we noticed
grey patches on the azure surface; they turned out to be
masses of dead midges—which abound in the neighbouring
marshes. These came from Lake Ládoga. One of the
oarsmen scooped up a hatful of them.
While listening to Loewenwold’s tales about the building
of Petersburg I closed my eyes, and before me rose a vision
of countless human bodies, very grey and small, like
these masses of dead midges floating on the Neva, a mass
without beginning or end, of persons whom nobody knows
and nobody remembers.
On my return home I sat down to write this diary in my
small room, a veritable bird’s cage, in the attic, just below
the roof.
It felt close, I opened the window, in rushed the smell of
spring, also of tar and pine shavings. On the banks of the
Neva two carpenters, a young man and an old one, were
repairing a boat. Nothing but the hammering was heard,
and the monotonous melancholy song which the younger
man was singing over and over again. Here are the few
words I was able to catch:
In the town Saint Petersburg
On the river Neva,
On the glorious Basil Isle,
A sailor rigged his ship, O!
Gazing up towards the evening sky, pale green, transparent
and cold as ice, I listened to this melancholy song, so
like a wail, and myself was moved almost to tears.
May 3.
To-day her Highness went to see the Tsaritsa; she complained
about Gedeónoff, and also asked for a more regular
payment of the money. I was present at the interview.
The Tsaritsa was amiable as usual.
“Czaarishe Majestät Euch sehr lieb,” she said to the
Crown Princess in her broken German, during the conversation.
“Believe me, his Majesty is very fond of you. ‘Truly
Catherine,’ said he, ‘your daughter-in-law is exceedingly
pleasing both in appearance and temperament.’ ‘Your
Majesty,’ said I, ‘you love your daughter more than me.’
‘No,’ he answered and laughed, ‘not more, but very soon I
will love her as much. My son,’ said he, ‘is really not
worthy of so good a wife.’”
We concluded from these words that the Tsar was not
over fond of his son.
When her Highness almost tearfully interceded for her
husband, the Tsaritsa promised to be his advocate, always
with the same amiability, assuring her that she loved her
as her own child, and had she carried her under her heart,
she could not have loved her better.
I don’t like this Russian sentimentality: it is honey on
the knife’s point.
Yet it appears that her Highness does not deceive herself;
she once said in my presence that the Tsaritsa was worse
than the rest: “pire que tout le reste.”
To-day, coming home from the interview, she remarked,
“she will never forgive me if I bear a son.”
One day when our conversation had turned on the
Tsaritsa, an old peasant woman whispered into my ear,
“She has no business to reign; she was neither born to it,
nor is she a Russian. And we know how she was taken
prisoner, brought into the camp with only a chemise on,
and given into custody. The man on duty, our officer,
gave her a coat. The Lord alone knows of what rank she
is; they say she used to wash shirts in Finland.”
I could not help remembering this to-day when her
Highness, in greeting the Tsaritsa, was going to stoop and
kiss her dress, according to court etiquette. It is true the
Tsaritsa did not allow it to come to that, but herself
embraced and kissed her. Yet, what an irony of fate, that
a Princess of Wolfenbüttel, heiress of the great Guelphs,
who contested the German Imperial Crown in days when
the houses of Hohenzollern and Hapsburg had never yet
been heard of, should kiss the dress of this woman who
once was a laundress!
May 4.
After warm sunny days it has suddenly turned wintry
again, with cold wind, wet, snow and rain. Ice from the
Ládoga is floating down the Neva. We are told, however,
that snow falls here even as late as June.
Our palace has been so neglected that even its roof has
proved unsound; to-night, during a severe rainfall, water
came through the ceiling in her Highness’s bedchamber; a
good thing it did not come on the bed; but there was a pool
on the floor.
The ceiling is decorated with a painted allegory; a burning
altar entwined with roses; on both sides Cupids bearing
two coats of arms; the Russian Eagle and the Brunswick
Steed. Between them, two clasped hands and the inscription,
“Non unquam junxit nobiliora fides.” “Never did
fidelity join two nobler beings.” The damp has formed a
black spot just over the altar, and cold dirty water kept
dripping from Hymen’s flame.
I remembered the wedding speech made by the archeologist
Eckhardt, in which he tried to prove that both bride and
bridegroom descended from the Byzantine Emperor, Constantine
Porphyrogenitus. A fine country, where rain
falls on the nuptial couch of the descendant of the Porphyrogene!
May 5.
At last the Crown Prince has appeared. He lives in the
other half of the house, quite separate from us, and often
weeks pass by without our ever seeing him. The pair have
had a ‘scene.’ I heard it all from the adjacent room where
her Highness had expressly wished me to remain.
To all her prayers and complaints in regard to the Gedeónoff
affair and the keeping back of money, he answered,
shrugging his shoulders,
“Mich nichts angehn. Bekümmere mich nicht an Sie.
This matter is no business of mine. I do not trouble myself
about your money affairs.”
Then he burst out reproaching her for complaining to his
father about him.
“Are you not ashamed of yourself?” sobbed her Highness.
“Spare at least your own honour! In Germany you
would not find a cobbler or tailor, who would allow himself
thus to treat his wife.”
“You are no longer in Germany but in Russia.”
“I am only too well aware of this. Yet if only everything
were carried out that was promised.”
“Who promised?”
“Did not you with the Tsar sign the marriage contract?”
“Halten Maul! Ich habe sie nichts versprochen. Hold
your tongue! I promised you nothing. You very well
know that you were forced upon me!”
He jumped up; the chair he had sat on fell to the ground.
I almost rushed to her rescue, I was afraid he would
strike her. I hated him to such an extent at that moment,
that I believe I could have killed him.
“Das danke ihnen der Henker! May the headsman
reward you for this!” exclaimed the Crown Princess, beside
herself with anger and sorrow.
Swearing at her in an odious manner, he left the room,
slamming the door.
It seems all that is wild and base in this country is incarnate
in this man. Only one thing I find hard to decide.
Which is he, a fool or a scoundrel?
Poor Charlotte! Her Highness, who daily shows me
greater friendship, quite beyond my deserts, has herself
desired that I should so call her. Poor Charlotte, when I
came to her, she threw herself into my arms, and remained
silent for a long while, trembling all over. At last she said
sobbing:
“If only I were not with child and could, without hindrance
return to Germany, I would gladly agree to live there
on dry bread and water. I am well nigh losing my reason.
I pray God to give me strength, so that I may not be tempted
to do something desperate!”
And after awhile she gently added, weeping in her wonted
submissiveness, which frightens me more than all her
despair:—
“I am the unhappy victim of my family. They have
profited nothing from my sacrifice, while I myself am
slowly dying of grief.”
We were both crying when they came to tell us it was
time to go to the masquerade. Suppressing our tears we
began to dress. Such is the custom here: willy nilly, be
merry thou must.
The masquerade took place in the open air in the Troitsky
Square, near the “hôtellerie.” The square is very low,
marshy, and covered with mud, which never dries; part of
it had been covered with beams, and wooden planks on the
top of these. On the platform thus formed the masqueraders
crowded. Happily the weather had again suddenly
changed; it was a calm, warm evening. But towards night
a thick mist, white as milk, rose from the river and enveloped
the square. Many, and especially those ladies who had on
extremely thin costumes, were catching cold from the damp,
and began to sneeze and cough. Instead of medicine they
were given brandy; grenadiers as usual carried it round in
buckets. In the white shroud of mist, illumined by the
greenish light of the slowly fading twilight—later on in July
twilight lasts the whole night through—all these masqueraders,
harlequins, pagliazzi, shepherdesses, nymphs,
Chinese, Arabs, bears, cranes, and dragons, seemed grotesque
and terrible phantoms.
Here also, close to the platform on which we were dancing,
black posts with iron points were visible, and on them
remained the almost putrefied heads of decapitated criminals.
The stench from these heads mingled with the resinous
perfume of young pine shoots and birch buds, which now
fills the city. And again it seemed, as it always does in this
place, all was but a mirage!
May 6.
An unexpected reconciliation! When I approached the
half open door, leading to her Highness’s apartment, I saw
by chance, in the mirror that she was sitting in an arm-chair,
while the Crown Prince, stooping over her and holding her
head with both his hands, was kissing her upon the brow
with deferential tenderness. I was going to retire, but she
too caught sight of me in the mirror and signed to me with
her hand. I understood that she wished me to stay, as I
did last time, in the next room. The poor girl probably
wanted to parade her happiness.
“‘Der Mensch, der sagen, ich sie nicht lieb habe, lügt wie
Teufel!’, He who says, I don’t love you lies like the
devil!” said the Tsarevitch; I divined that they were
talking of one of those slanders about her Highness, which
circulate here so freely, (she is even accused of unfaithfulness
to her husband). “I believe in you, I know you are
good; and those who speak evil about you are not worth
your little finger.”
He enquired after her affairs, her troubles, her health,
her condition, with such sympathy, and his words and
features were so full of intelligence and kindness that he
seemed to me quite another being. I could scarcely believe
my eyes and ears, remembering what had passed in the same
room only yesterday.
When he left and we were alone, Charlotte said to me:
“What a strange man he is, not in the least what he
seems. Nobody knows him. How he loves me! Ah, my
dear Juliana, give me love, and all will be well, I can endure
everything! And when a child will be born unto me, I
pray God it may be a son, I shall be quite happy!”
I did not answer; I had not the courage to undeceive her;
she was already so happy, but for how long? poor, poor
woman!
Perhaps I am unfair to the Tsarevitch? May be, he is
really different from what he seems.
He is the most reserved of men. When he is not drunk,
he sits buried among his old books: he is supposed to be
studying Universal History, and Theology, not only
Russian, but also the Catholic and Protestant; he is said to
have read through the German Bible eight times: or else he
holds converse with monks, pilgrims, friars, and people of
the lowest class.
One of his servants, a certain Fédor Yevarlakóff, an
intelligent young fellow, a great lover of literature—he
borrows from me various books, even Latin ones—told me
one day something concerning the Crown Prince, which I
at once set down in my note book, a gift from dear Leibnitz,
which I always carry with me.
“The Tsarevitch is warmly attached to the priests and the
priests to him. He reveres them like God, and they call
him a saint; they always beatify him to the people.”
I remember Leibnitz telling me, that on being introduced
to him in the summer of 1711, at the ducal castle of Wolfenbüttel,
he had a long conversation with the Tsarevitch on his
favourite subject: the union of the East with the West,
China and Russia with Europe, and that later on he had
sent him, through his tutor Baron Huissen, an abstract of
the letters about Chinese affairs, Leibnitz asserted that,
contrary to all rumours spread about the Tsarevitch, he is
very clever, only his intelligence is of a different kind to his
father’s. “He probably takes after his grandfather,” remarked
Leibnitz.
Her Highness had shown me a copy of the letter received
by the Duke Ludwig Rudolf of Wolfenbüttel, her father, from
the Berlin Royal Academy of Science. This letter mentions
the possibility of spreading real Christian enlightenment
throughout Russia in the near future, thanks to the special
and marked inclination of the Crown Prince to all science
and books.
I have also seen the report of meetings held by the same
Academy, in 1711, when one of its members, the Co-Rector
Frish, had declared: “The Tsar’s heir loves the sciences
even more than the Tsar himself, and in his time he will
patronise them no less.”
It seems strange! But I was looking at them both to-day
in the mirror, as it were the mysterious mirror of fate,
I seemed to distinguish in both faces, so unlike in appearance,
one common trait—the shadow of some impending
grief, as if they were victims, and great suffering were in
store for them both. Or was this only fancy roused by that
dark mirror?
May 8.
To-day we were present at the launching of a large
seventy-gun man-of-war. The Tsar, dressed as a common
shipwright, in a red knitted jerkin daubed with tar, axe in
hand, was clambering about the hull props, seeing that all
was in order, and paying no heed to danger:—only lately two
men were killed at a launching. I remembered the Tsar’s
words: “I toil like Noah at the Ark of Russia!” Taking
his hat off before the chief Admiral, like a subordinate to his
chief, he asked whether it was time to begin, and having
received the order, he was the first to strike with his axe.
A hundred more axes began to cut the props, at the same
time the beams were drawn back which had supported
the vessel on both sides in the stays. She glided along the
greased cradle foot, first slowly, then like a dart, smashing
the cradle foot into shivers, and floated out on the water,
rolling and cutting the waves for the first time to the sound
of music, cannon salutes, and shouting of the people.
A small boat took us to the new vessel. The Tsar was on
board already; he had changed into the uniform of a naval
officer, and decorated with a star and the pale blue ribbon
of St. Andrew, he received the guests. All standing on the
deck, “the newly born” ship was baptized with a first cup
of wine. The Tsar made a speech. Here are some stray
words I have remembered:—
“Our people resemble children, who never will learn
their A B C unless they are made to; they grumble at the
time, but once having mastered it, they are grateful. The
occurrences of to-day prove this. Has not everything
been done under compulsion? And yet words of gratitude
are already heard for those undertakings which have borne
fruit. If you disdain the bitter, neither shall you enjoy the
sweet!”
Standing behind me, I overheard one of the fools, an old
boyar, who was probably drunk, whisper to his neighbour,
“We would rather not have your blessings when they have
to be purchased by so many aches and pains.”
“We have,” continued the Tsar, “the precedents of the
civilised nations in Europe, who also began in a small way. It
is time for us also to make a start, first in little things, and
later will come men who will not recoil before the greater
tasks. I know I shall neither do it, nor see it done, for the
number of our days is but short, yet will I make a beginning,
then those who come after me will find it easier. As for us,
we must content ourselves with the glory of having begun!”
I admired the Tsar, he looked so noble. We went down
into the cabins, the ladies sat part from the men in an
adjacent saloon, where, during the banquet, no man except
the Tsar was allowed to enter. There was a small round
window, hung with red damask, in the partition between
the two saloons. I sat next to it; raising the curtain a
little I could see and partly hear what went on in the men’s
apartment. Some of the things I have put down in my
note book.
Long narrow tables, arranged in the shape of a horse
shoe, were laden with cold dishes; pickles and fumados,
anything that would create intense thirst. The food is
coarse, the wines are good. For the furnishing of these
banquets the Tsar allows the Admiralty from his private
purse one thousand roubles, a vast sum for this country.
The guests sat down anyhow, without any distinction of
rank, common seamen next to the highest dignitaries. At
one of the tables presided the Kniaz-Pope, the mock Prince-pope,
surrounded by his cardinals. He solemnly pronounced
“Grace and peace be unto you, noble assembly! In the
name of Bacchus, and Ivaska Khmelnitsky, and the Spirit
of wine. The drunkenness of Bacchus be with you!”
“Amen,” responded the Tsar, who fills the position of
Archdeacon to the Pope.
All guests approached in their turn his Holiness, bowed
low before him, kissed his hand, and accepting a ladle of
pepper-brandy drank it; this is pure spirit of wine—spiritus
vini—poured over red Indian pepper. I should have thought
that the mere threat of this brandy would be sufficient to
extract confessions from the most hardened malefactor,—here
they compel even ladies to drink it.
The health of all the members of the royal household was
proposed; only the Tsarevitch and his wife were omitted,
although they were present. Every toast was accompanied
by the firing of cannon, and the shock of the firing was so
great that the glass in one of the windows cracked.
The guests grew speedily intoxicated, especially as brandy
was being secretly added to the wine. The air became
close in the low cabins, crowded with people. The guests
threw off their waistcoats, and pulled off one another’s wigs.
Some huddled together and kissed one another, others
quarrelled, especially the ministers and senators, who
accused one another of bribe-taking, cheating and swindling.
“Your mistress costs you twice your salary!” screamed
one.
“Have you forgotten the pickled cibarins?” retorted the
other.
Cibarins were pieces of gold, which a cunning petitioner
had offered in a small barrel under the guise of mushrooms.
“And how much hemp supplied to the Admiralty did
you take off at a gulp, eh?”
“Ah, friends, what is the use of blaming one another?
everybody longs for what is good; whether honourable or
swindlers, all men are sinners.”
“Bribes are mere accidents!”
“To accept nothing from the petitioners is against nature.”
“Yet by law——”
“What is law but a carriage pole? you can swing it
whichever way you like——”
The Tsar listened attentively. It is his custom, when
all are drunk, to double the guards and let no one pass out
of the door. At the same time, the Tsar, who is never
drunk, much as he may take, tries purposely to provoke
quarrels among them. He then learns what he could never
have known otherwise. There is a proverb to this effect—“When
rogues fall out honest men come by their own.”
The banquet develops into a public inquiry into character.
The Most Serene Prince Ménshikoff quarrelled with the
Vice-Chancellor Shafiroff; the Prince had called the latter
a Jew.
“I am a Jew, but you are a pieman,” retorted Shafiroff,
“Your father had not even a spoon to eat his soup with.
You have been dragged up, ‘taken from the mire you
have been made a sire’”—
“You dirty Jew, I’ll crack you on my nail like a flea,
and nothing but a little moisture will remain.”
They went on railing at one another for a long time.
Russians are as a rule very versatile in ribaldry; I think
it is impossible to hear more obscene language anywhere
else; the air is full of it. In one of the vilest expressions
used by young and old, the term mother is coupled with the
most obscene of terms: it is known as the ‘mother-word.’
Having exhausted their resources of abuse, the dignitaries
began to spit into one another’s faces, while the guests stood
round looking on and laughing. Here such scuffles are
quite common, and involve no further consequences.
Prince James Dolgorúki had a tussle with the Prince
Caesar Romodanovsky. These two venerable old men,
both white with age, abused one another in most insulting
terms, then tore one another’s hair, and began strangling
and beating one another with their fists. When some of
the onlookers tried to separate them, they drew out their
swords.
“Ei! dat ist nitt permittet,” exclaimed the Tsar in
Dutch, coming up and standing between them.
The Archdeacon Peter Mihailoff is commanded by the
Pope “to pacify the guests by word and act during the
uproar.”
“I want satisfaction!” moaned Prince James, “I have
been sorely affronted.” “Comrade,” remonstrated the
Tsar, “Where can you seek judgment against Caesar
but from God? I myself am but a subject, and belong to
his Majesty’s service. What is the affront after all? None
of the assembly has remained untouched by Bacchus.
Sauffen-rauffen, we drink, fight, sleep, and make friends.”
For punishment each of them was made to drink another
bumper of pepper-brandy. Soon they both were rolling
under the table.
Buffoons were shouting, grinning, spitting, not only at
one another but also at decent people. A special chorus,
called the Spring chorus, imitated the singing of all birds
from the nightingale to the warbler, in such piercing, shrill
notes that the walls resounded with a deafening noise. A
wild dance-song was heard; its words almost meaningless
recalled the screams of a witches’ sabbath—
Shinshan!
Shevergen!
Beat the pace, beat!
Don’t spare your feet!
In our ladies’ apartment the old drunken fool, the Princess
Abbess Rjévskaya, a veritable witch, whirled away in a
dance, lifting her skirts above her head and singing in a voice
hoarse with drink:—
Tune up! tune up! my music sweet
Work on, work on my staff,
My father-in-law from the stove
Has fallen into a trough!
Had I but known this would occur
I would have placed him at the top,
And falling, he’d have broken his head....
The Tsaritsa, with her hair in disorder, covered with sweat,
red and flown with wine, was watching her, and beat the
time with her hands and foot, and laughed like mad. At the
beginning of the orgie she tried to persuade her Highness to
drink, using some curious sayings, which appear to be
numerous on the subject in Russian. “Bumper on bumper
is better than stroke upon stroke!” “Even cabbages flag
without water!” “Even a hen must drink!” Yet,
noticing that the Crown Princess was almost fainting, she
left off, and even secretly added water to her wine and ours
at the same time. To water wine is counted a great crime
at such banquets.
Towards the end of the night—we had remained at
table from six in the evening till four in the morning—the
Tsaritsa several times went to the door and beckoned to
the Tsar, saying:
“Isn’t it time to go home?”
“Never mind, Katinka, to-morrow is a holiday,” answered
the Tsar.
Each time I lifted the curtain I saw something new in
the men’s apartment.
Somebody walking across the table had stepped with his
boot into a dish of fish brawn. The Tsar had only a moment
before forced some of this fish down the Chancellor
Golóvkin’s throat. Golóvkin could not bear fish; servants
held his arms and legs; he struggled, choked, and
grew very red. Having done with Golóvkin, the Tsar
turned to the Hanoverian Resident, Weber; he fondled
and kissed him, with one hand he supported his head, with
the other he held a bumper to his lips, begging him to
drink it. Then taking off his wig, he kissed now the front,
now the back of his head. He lifted his lips and kissed
his teeth. They say the reason of this tenderness was the
Tsar’s desire to get out of the Resident a diplomatic secret,
Moussin Pushkin, who was being tickled below the neck,
squealed like a young pig brought to the knife. He is
very ticklish. The Tsar is trying to accustom him to it.
The great Admiral Apraksin burst into a flood of tears.
The privy councillor Tolstoi crept about on all fours; it
turned out afterwards that he was not so drunk as he pretended;
he did it to escape more drink. A bottle had
cut open the Vice Admiral Cruis’ head. Prince Ménshikoff
had fallen to the ground; he seemed comatose; his face
had grown livid. People busied themselves round him
and tried by rubbing to revive him, lest he should die—death
is not an unusual ending to such orgies. The Tsar’s
chaplain, the Archimandrite Theodosius, was sick; “I shall
die, holy Mother!” he piteously moaned. The Kniaz-Pope
was snoring; his head lay on the table in a pool of wine.
Hissing, roaring, the noise of breaking china, bad language,
boxes on the ear, which no longer called forth any attention,
seemed to fill the air. A stench prevailed as in the vilest
tavern. Had anyone come down from the outside he could
not have helped vomiting.
My head swam. I seemed at times to lose consciousness.
The human faces all looked beast-like; the Tsar’s the most
terrible of all. Large and round, with staring eyes, slightly
oblong and prominent, with pointed moustaches standing
out, it was the face of a tiger or a huge wild cat. Calm
and disdainful, his look was clear and piercing. He alone
had remained sober; and was now with curiosity peering
into the vilest mysteries, into the bared soul of human
beings, which lay turned inside out before him in this
inquisition chamber, where the instrument of torture was
wine.
The Kniaz-Pope was roused and lifted from the table.
The Kniaz-Caesar had also had time to sleep off his worst.
They were made to dance together; incapable of standing
on their feet they had to be propped up on both sides.
The pope wore a mock tiara crowned by a nude Bacchus,
in his hands he held a cross made of pipes. The Caesar,
wearing a mock crown, held a sceptre in his hand. The
Tsarevitch lay on the ground dead drunk, between these
two fools, these phantoms of ancient dignity—the Russian
Tsar and the Russian Patriarch. What happened next I
don’t remember, and will not even try to recall, it was too
disgusting.
On the neighbouring ships reveille was sounded. On
ours too the roll of the drum was heard. The Tsar himself,
who is an excellent drummer, was sounding retreat. This
signified that a great battle had been waged with Bacchus,
and he had remained victor. Grenadiers were bearing
away drunken nobles, like bodies from a battle field.
When we saw the sky at last, it seemed to us we had
escaped—to be grandiose—from hell; speaking vulgarly—from
a cesspool.
May 9.
To-day the Tsar left Petersburg with a large fleet, he
has gone to meet the Swedes.
May 20.
It is a long time since I wrote in this diary. Her Highness
has been ill after the entertainment. I have not left
her. And besides there is nothing worth writing about.
Everything is so sad, that one feels inclined neither to talk
nor think; let come what will!
May 25.
I was not far wrong, the truce did not last long. Again
a black cloud has come between the Tsarevitch and her
Highness. Again they do not meet for whole weeks. He
too is ill. The doctors say it is consumption; I think it
is brandy.
June 4.
The Tsarevitch came in dressed for a journey in a German
travelling coat; he talked about things in general,
and all at once said:
“Adieu, ich gehe nach Karlsbad.”
The Crown Princess was so taken aback that she could
say nothing. She did not even ask for how long. I
thought he was joking, but afterwards it appeared that
almost immediately on leaving us, he had taken his seat
in the coach and was gone. It is said he has really gone to
Karlsbad for a cure.
And now we are left alone without Tsar or Tsarevitch.
Her Highness does not receive any letters from her parents;
they probably believe the slanders circulated about her
and are displeased with her. We are forsaken by all.
July 7.
A letter from the Tsar to her Highness. “I do not wish
to trouble you, nor act against my conscience, but the
absence of your husband, my son, compels me to do so, in
order to prevent the idle talk of loose tongues, which are
wont to convert truth into lies. The fact of your pregnancy
has been spread abroad; and therefore a certain arrangement
must be made for the time when by God’s will you
will be delivered. The Chancellor Golóvkin will acquaint
you with the details of what you will be expected to conform
to, and then the mouths of all slanderers will be
closed.”
The arrangement was made. Her Highness was surrounded
by three women: the Vice Chancellor’s wife,
General Bruce’s wife, and the old fool Rjévskaya, the same
who danced at the banquet. Her Highness was only
slightly acquainted with them. These three shrews
are continuously about her, ostensibly to take care of her,
really to act as simple spies.
And what does all this mean? what are they frightened
at? what deception is possible? surely not an exchange;
a boy for a girl, by those who would like to see the inheritance
assured to the offspring of the Tsarevitch. Or is it
only an excess of amenity on the Tsaritsa’s part?
Only now we realize how much we are hated and suspected.
Charlotte’s whole crime consists in being her
husband’s wife. The father is against his son, and we stand
between them as between two fires.
“I will obediently submit to your Majesty’s wish with
regard to the appointment of these three women for my
protection,” Charlotte replied, to the Tsar, “all the more
as the thought of deceiving you or the Crown Prince had
never entered my head. I am hurt by this strange and
unmerited treatment. I thought the love and clemency so
often promised me by your Majesty were sufficient safeguard
against slander, and a warrant that the guilty ones
should meet with due punishment. It is grievous that my
enemies should be strong enough to incite such intrigues.
God is my only refuge in this foreign land, and when abandoned
by everybody else, He will hearken unto the sighs of
my heart and put an end to my sufferings.”
July 12.
This morning at 7 o’clock her Highness was successfully
delivered of a daughter. No news whatever from the
Tsarevitch.
August 1.
The news of a Russian victory over the Swedes on July
27, has arrived; it is said an entire squadron under the
command of Ehrenshild has been captured. The whole
day long the bells are ringing and cannon firing. It is true
they are not economical of their powder here; the most
insignificant victory, the taking of three or four rotten
galleys is sufficient excuse for firing off cannon, and at such
a rate as though the world had been conquered.
September 9.
The Tsar has returned to Petersburg. Again a cannonade
as though it were a besieged city. We are almost deaf.
Endless triumphal processions, fireworks with boastful
allegories: the Tsar is glorified as if he were a conqueror
of worlds, a Caesar or an Alexander. Again an orgie; we
thanked the Lord we were spared this time. Again, it is
said, they drank like swine. Rain and mud. A low, dark
and, as it were, impenetrable sky looks in through the windows.
Wet crows perch cawing on the bare branches.
Dreariness! Dreariness!
September 19.
I found the Crown Princess weeping over old letters the
Tsarevitch had written her during their engagement.
Crooked, broken characters on pencil lines, empty compliments,
diplomatic amiabilities. And she, poor thing,
shed tears in looking over them!
We learnt by chance that the Tsarevitch lives incognito
in Karlsbad and will not return here before the winter.
September 20.
In order to forget myself, and not to think about our
affairs, I have decided to write down everything I see or
hear about the Tsar. Leibnitz is right—“quanto magis
hujus Principis indolem prospicio tanto eam magis admiror”—The
longer I watch this sovereign’s character the more I
marvel at it.
October 1.
I have seen the Tsar forge iron in the dockyard smithy.
The courtiers ministered to him, made the fire up, blew the
bellows, carried the coal, soiling the silk and velvet of their
gold-embroidered coats thereby.
“That’s right; that is as a Tsar ought to be! He does
not eat his bread unearned. He works better than a
‘bourlak,’” said one of the bystanders, a common working
man.
The Tsar was wearing a leather apron; his hair was tied
up with a string; his sleeves were turned up and showed
his bare sinewy arms: his face was smeared with soot. The
tall smith, lit up by the red blaze of the furnace, resembled
a Titan. His hammer hit the white, hot iron so hard that
the sparks showered around, the anvil trembled and rang
as if on the point of being smashed into shivers.
I remembered the words spoken by an old boyar:
“Sovereign, thou would’st forge a new Russia out of
Vulcan’s iron. Hard work for the hammer! hard, too, for
the anvil!”
“Time, too, is like hot iron; forge it at white heat!”
So runs one of the Tsar’s sayings. And he indeed forges
Russia at white heat. He never rests; he is always
hurrying somewhither. It seems as though he could not
stop to rest even if he would. He is killing himself with
feverish activity, an incredible tension of strenuousness,
a ceaseless convulsiveness. The doctors say that his strength
is undermined; that he won’t live long. He is always
taking the Olonetz iron waters, yet at the same time he
drinks brandy; thus the remedy does more harm than good.
The first impression he leaves on the observer is rapidity.
He is all motion; does not walk, but runs. The Imperial
Ambassador, Count Kinski—a pretty solid man—assures
us that he would rather take part in battles, than have a
two hours’ audience with the Tsar, because he is forced, in
spite of his stoutness, to run after him all the time, so that
he is bathed in sweat even in the severest Russian frost.
“Time is like life,” repeats the Tsar. “Loss of time is
death.”
Fire and water are his elements, he loves them like one
born in them,—water like a fish, fire like a salamander.
He has a passion for cannonades, and for various experiments
with fire and fireworks. He always lights the fireworks
himself, rushing into the flames; I was present once
when he singed his hair. He says he is inuring his people
to the smell of powder; but this is only an excuse, fire itself
he simply loves.
His passion is as great for water. Although the offspring
of Muscovy’s Tsars who never saw the sea, he yet
began longing for it, when, but a child, he was secluded in
the close terems of the Kremlin Palace, like a wild gosling
in a hen-house.
He used to float in toy boats on artificial lakes. When
at last he got to the sea he could not tear himself away from
it again. He spends most of his time on water, he sleeps
every day after dinner on his frigate; when ill he lives
on board altogether, and sea-air generally cures him. During
the summer he feels the lack of air, even among the
large gardens of Peterhof, so he fitted himself up a bedroom
in Monplaisir, a small house, washed by the Finnish
Gulf; the windows of the bedroom look straight upon the
sea. In Petersburg the Observatory is built on a sandbank
in the mouth of the Neva. In the Summer Garden, also,
the Palace is surrounded on two sides by water. Steps
lead from the door straight down into the water, just as in
Amsterdam and Venice. Once, during winter, when the
Neva had already put on her ice-chains, and only before
the Palace there remained a round, open ice-free space,
about a hundred yards in circumference, he sailed on it up
and down in a tiny boat, like a duck in a pool. When the
whole river was covered with hard ice he ordered a space,
about a hundred yards long and thirty yards wide, to be
daily cleared and swept of the snow: I myself have seen him
sliding along this surface in small pretty boyers, fitted with
steel skates and bulge-ways. “We sail on the ice,” said
he, “so as not to forget our nautical exercises during the
winter.” Another time, at Moscow, in the Christmas holidays,
he went along the streets in a huge sleigh—rigged in
imitation of a real sailing vessel. He loves letting young
geese and ducks, which the Tsaritsa gives him, go into the
water. He delights in their glee as though he himself
were a water bird.
He says his first thoughts about the sea date from his reading
the narrative of the maritime expedition of Prince Oleg
of Kieff to Constantinople, recorded by the Chronicler
Nestor. If this be true he is only resuscitating the old in
the new, the native in the foreign. From the sea, across
the land to the sea—this is Russia’s course!
Sometimes it seems to me that the contradictions of his
two beloved elements, water and fire, have merged in him
into one being, strange and curious. I know not whether
kind or cruel, divine or diabolic—but certainly inhuman.
A strange timidity occasionally besets him. I myself
have seen him at a pompous reception of Ambassadors
sitting on the throne, confused, blushing, perspiring, trying
to gain courage by repeatedly taking snuff; he did not know
what to do with his eyes, and even avoided his wife’s
glances. When the ceremony was over and he was no
longer obliged to stay on the throne, he was as merry as
a schoolboy. The Markgravine of Brandenburg told me
that at her first interview with the Tsar—who it is true
was quite young at that time—he turned away, covered
his face with his hands like a shy debutante, and did
nothing but repeat, “Je ne sais pas m’exprimer”—“I
cannot talk.” He soon recovered, however, and became
almost too free. He expressed the desire to convince himself
that the German ladies’ hard waists, which so surprised
the Russians, were not caused by their bony nature, but by
the whalebones in the stays. “Il pourrait être plus poli”—“He
might have been a little more polite,” observed the
Markgravine. Baron Manteuffel related to me the Tsar’s
interview with the Queen of Prussia: “He was so amiable
that before offering her his hand he put on a rather dirty
glove. At the supper he surpassed himself. He neither
picked his teeth, nor belched, nor uttered any other
unbecoming noises (il n’a ni roté ni peté).”
When travelling about Europe he insisted that nobody
should look at him, and that the roads and streets he had
to pass should be quite empty. He entered houses and
went out of them by secret ways; visiting museums by
night. One day, in Holland, when he was obliged to pass
through a hall where the members of the States-General
were sitting, he asked the president to make the whole
assembly turn their backs to him as he passed; and when
respect for the Tsar would not allow them to do so, he
pulled his wig down to his nose, hurried through the room
and antechamber, and ran down the stair.
One day, rowing on the canal at Amsterdam, and noticing
a boat with inquisitive spectators attempting to approach
him, he fell into such a fury that he flung two empty
bottles at the steersman’s head, and nearly brained him. A
real savage! A Russian demon in a civilized Europe!
A savage and a child! All Russians in general are children.
The Tsar only pretends to be grown up when among them.
I shall never forget how, at the village fair near Wolfenbüttel,
the hero of Poltava rode on the wooden horses of
a second-rate roundabout, tried to catch brass hoops on a
stick, and enjoyed himself like a small schoolboy. Children
are cruel. The Tsar’s favourite diversion is to force people
into doing something for which they have an instinctive
aversion. Those who cannot stand wine, butter, cheese,
oysters, or vinegar, are on every possible occasion stuffed
with them by the Tsar. Those who are ticklish are tickled
by him. Many, to please him, pretend that they are
unable to endure what he specially delights in administering.
Sometimes these jokes are fearful, especially during the festivities
in the Christmas holidays, the so-called Slavleniya.
This amusement, an old boyar told me, is so terrible, that
many prepare for it as for death. People are dragged by
ropes from one ice hole to another; others are compelled
to sit on the ice bare-buttocked; others again are killed
by excessive drink. This is the way a creature alien to man,
a faun or a centaur would play with men, maiming them and
killing them unawares.
In the anatomical theatre at Leyden he was one day
watching how the exposed muscles of a body were being
saturated with turpentine. Noticing a look of extreme
repulsion on the face of one of his Russian companions,
the Tsar took him by the collar, bent him over the table,
and insisted on his tearing the muscles off the body with
his teeth. At times it is almost impossible to say where
childish frolic ends and the cruelty of a beast begins.
Coupled with strange awkwardness and timidity he
displays savage shamelessness, especially towards women.
“Il faut que Sa Majesté ait dans le corps une légion de démons
de luxure.” “His Majesty must incorporate a legion of
sensual devils,” says the court physician Blumentrost.
He presumes that the Tsar’s scurvy is the outcome of
an older ailment which had troubled him in early youth.
To quote the expression of one of the “new Russians”—“The
Tsar displays a political leniency with regard to
sexual immorality”—the more sinners, the more recruits,
and he needs recruits. He himself considers love to be
only a natural instinct. Once during his stay in England,
when a courtezan was not satisfied with her present of five
hundred guineas, he said to Ménshikoff: “You think I am
as great a spendthrift as yourself. For five hundred guineas
old men serve me with zeal and brains, and this jade has
served me damnably badly, you yourself know in what
way.”
The Tsaritsa is not in the least degree jealous. He relates
to her all his affairs of the heart, but always ends with
the compliment, “and still you are better than the whole
pack of them, Catherine!”
Strange rumours are circulated and voiced abroad with
regard to the Tsar’s Denshiks. One of them, General Yagoushinsky,
is supposed to have gained his master’s favours in
ways which cannot be well talked about. The handsome Lefort,
so says an amiable old gentleman about the Court, was
so intimate with the Tsar that they had one mistress between
them. It is rumoured that the Tsaritsa, before living with
the Tsar, had been the mistress of Ménshikoff. Ménshikoff,
in his turn, had taken in Catherine’s affections the
place of Lefort. This man Ménshikoff, “risen from the
mire,” who, in the Tsar’s own words, was conceived in lawlessness,
born to sin, and is ending his life in rascality, has an
almost inexplicable power over Peter. The Tsar will sometimes
beat him like a dog, throw him to the ground, trample
upon him; one would think it was all over, and yet, the next
moment, they have again made peace, and are even kissing
one another. I have myself heard the Tsar calling him his
dear Alexasha, his own darling, and Ménshikoff returned the
compliment. This ci-devant street pieman has become so
insolent that he said one day to the Tsarevitch (true, he was
drunk at the time), “You will see as little of the Crown as
of your own ears. The crown is my property.”
October 8.
To-day, a Dutch merchant’s wife, who died of dropsy, was
buried. The Tsar himself performed the operation of tapping
her. They say her death was caused less by illness
than by the operation. The Tsar was present at both
funeral and commemoration banquet. He drank and enjoyed
himself vastly. He considers himself a great surgeon.
Persons about him unlucky enough to have a swelling
or gathering do their best to conceal it, for fear the
Tsar should begin cutting it. He has a strange liking for
anatomy. He cannot see a body without having it dissected,
and examines post mortem all the bodies of his relatives.
He delights in drawing teeth, having learnt the art in Holland
from a travelling dentist. There is a bagful of rotten
teeth extracted by the imperial forceps preserved in the
Kunst-Kammer here.
In the face of suffering he displays cynical curiosity and
a cynical kindheartedness. He has himself performed an
intestinal operation on his page, an Arab.
His whole nature is a combination of strength and weakness.
This is apparent at once even in his face: terrible
eyes from which nothing escapes, one look of which suffices
to make people swoon; lips, thin, delicate, almost feminine,
with a cunning smile; a chin, soft, round, plump, with a
dimple.
We are positively sick of hearing about the hat pierced
with bullets at Poltava: I have no doubt that he can be
brave, especially when victorious. All victors are brave.
But has he always been as brave as it is believed?
The Saxon Engineer Hallart, who took part in the Narva
campaign of 1700, tells me, that when the Tsar knew of the
approach of Charles XII, he made over the command of the
army to the Duc de Croy, with instructions hurriedly
written, bearing neither date, nor seal, quite unintelligible,
confused, and himself in great perturbation quitted the
scene of action.
The Swedish prisoner, Count Pipper, has shown me a
medal struck by the Swedes; on one side the Tsar is warming
his hands at the fire of his cannons which are sending
shells into the besieged Narva. The inscription is—“And
Peter stood at the fire and warmed himself,” an allusion to
the Apostle Peter in the court of the high priest! On the
other side Russians are represented retreating from Narva;
Peter in front, his crown tumbling from his head, his sword
thrown away, wipes his tears with a handkerchief; and
the inscription runs—“And going out, he wept bitterly.”
All this may be slander; yet why has no one even dared
to invent slanders about Alexander or Caesar? Something
similarly strange happened during the Pruth campaign.
At the most dangerous moment, just before the
battle, the Tsar was about to leave the army for the rear,
under pretext of bringing up fresh forces. That he did not
leave was only due to the retreat being cut off. He wrote
to the Senate—that never, since he had been in service, had
he been in such despair. Does not this again almost justify
the legend that “going out, he wept bitterly?”
Blumentrost says that doctors know more about heroes
than ever will go down to posterity;—it appears the Tsar
cannot endure the slightest physical pain. During a serious
illness which was expected to result in death, he was
anything but heroic. “It is hardly credible,” exclaimed
a Russian who had been praising the Tsar in my presence,
“that a great and fearless hero should be afraid of so insignificant
an insect as a cockroach.” When the Tsar travels
about Russia, new huts are erected for him to sleep in, as it
is difficult to find in Russian villages a dwelling without
cockroaches. He is also afraid of spiders and other insects.
I myself once observed how at the sight of a cockroach he
trembled, his face became pale and contorted, as at a ghost
or some supernatural monster; another moment and he
would have swooned or fallen into a fit, like a tremulous
woman. O to play a trick upon him, like those he plays
on others! He would probably die of fright if he were
stripped and half a dozen spiders and cockroaches were
let loose on him. No doubt historians would never believe
that the conqueror of Charles XII died from the touch of a
cockroach’s legs. This dread in the presence of a small
harmless creature is astonishing in a great Tsar before whom
everybody trembles. I remembered the teaching about
monads by Leibnitz; it almost would seem that it was not
their physical, but their metaphysical pre-existent nature,
which is alien to the Tsar’s nature. His fear was not only
ludicrous but awful to me: it seemed as though I had suddenly
penetrated some mystery.
One day a learned German, while making experiments
before the Tsaritsa with an air pump, had placed a swallow
under the glass dome. When the Tsar saw the little bird
gasp, totter, and feebly flap its wings, he said:—
“Enough! Enough! don’t take away innocent life, the
bird has done no harm.”
“I think her young ones are mourning for her in the
nest,” added the Tsaritsa, and taking the swallow to the
window she released and let it fly away.
Sentimental Peter! how strangely this sounds! And
yet I saw something closely akin to sentiment flit across
those delicate almost feminine lips, the plump and dimpled
chin, when the Tsaritsa said in that simpering voice with
mincing smile, “her young ones are mourning for her in the
nest.”
Was it not on that very day that this terrible ukase was
published? “His Imperial Majesty has deigned to observe
that the nostrils of convicts sentenced to labour for
life are only incompletely torn. His Majesty orders the
nostrils to be taken off to the bone, so that in case the convicts
should desert they could not hide themselves, but
may easily be recognised and brought back.” And this
among the Admiralty Regulations: “The body of him who
commits suicide must be publicly hanged by the feet.”
“Is he cruel?” That is a question. “He who is cruel
ceases to be a hero.” This is one of those sayings ascribed
to the Tsar, which I do not quite believe; they seem to be
uttered rather for posterity. Yet posterity will know that
he, while sparing a swallow, tortured a sister to death, torments
his wife, and it seems will, by degrees, murder his
son.
Is he as artless as he seems? this too is doubtful. I
know there are a number of stories in circulation with regard
to the Tsar carpenter in Saardam. I must confess I never
could listen to them without annoyance; they are too
instructive, too much like pictures with explanations.
“Verstellte Einfalt;”—“Sham naïvete,” said a witty
German about him. The Russians too have a proverb,
“The simpleton beats the knave.”
In future all pedants and schoolchildren will certainly
know that Tsar Peter darned his own stockings, mended his
boots for economy’s sake. But it is doubtful whether they
will ever be acquainted with a fact told me lately by a Russian
timber merchant.
He said that a huge amount of unused oak timber was
lying near Lake Ládoga, covered over with sand and rotting
disused. And meanwhile men are lashed and hung
for the offence of cutting down and stealing oak. Human
life and blood are cheaper than oak wood. I might add,
cheaper than torn stockings.
“C’est un grand poseur”—some one had said about him.
One ought to watch him kiss the Prince Caesar’s hand
when he has broken some buffoon’s regulation,—“Forgive,
sovereign, forgive! We rough sailors are not well versed
in ceremony.”
One can hardly trust one’s eyes; it is impossible to distinguish
where the Tsar ends and the fool begins.
He has surrounded himself with masks. The Tsar Carpenter!
’tis a masquerade after the Dutch fashion?
And is not this new Tsar in his simplesse, in his carpenter’s
disguise, really further removed from the common people,
than were the ancient Tsars of Muscovy in their cloth of
gold?
“Nowadays life is very hard,” complained the same
merchant to me, “nobody is allowed to say anything; the
truth never reaches the Tsar. It used to be much simpler
in the old days.” I once heard the chaplain Theodosius
praise him to his face for the dissimulation which, it appears,
political teachers are supposed to lay down as the first duty
of sovereigns.
I do not judge him; I only repeat what I hear and see.
All see the hero, few the man. And even if I gossip it will
be forgiven me, for I am a woman. Some one has said:
“This man is very good and very bad;” as for me, I must
once more repeat: “I know not whether he is better or
worse than other men, but it sometimes seems to me that
he is not quite human.”
The Tsar is pious. He reads the Acts, and sings with as
much confidence as the priests themselves, seeing he knows
the lauds and liturgies by heart. He composes prayers
for the soldiers.
Sometimes during a conversation about military or state
affairs he suddenly lifts his eyes to heaven, crosses himself
and says a short prayer with evident devotion: “O God
take not Thy grace from us in the days to come!” or, “Lord
grant us Thy mercy, for in Thee have we put our trust!”
This is not hypocrisy. No doubt he believes in God,
as he says he puts his trust in the “Lord, strong in battle.”
Yet it would seem as if his God were not the God of
the Christians, but of the pagans, Mars, or Nemesis—Fate
herself. Never breathed a human being less like
a Christian than Peter. What connection is there between
the sword of Mars and the lilies of the Gospels?
I have just read a curious new book published in Germany
under the title—Curieuse Nachricht von der itzigen
Religion I. K. M. in Russland Petri Alezieviz und seines
grossen Reiches, dass dieselbe itzo fast nach Evangelisch-Lutherischen
Grundsätzen eingerichtet sei.
Here are a few extracts from it. “We are not far wrong
in stating that his Majesty’s conception of true religion
takes the form of the Lutheran faith.”
“The Tsar has abolished the Patriarchate, and, following
the example of Protestant Princes, he has declared himself
the chief Bishop, that is Patriarch of the Russian church.
On his return from a journey to foreign countries he at once
entered into discussions with his priests, and being convinced
of their ignorance on questions of faith—indeed they
could hardly read—he instituted schools where they might
apply themselves more diligently to study.
“Now that the Russians are reasonably taught and educated
in schools, all the superstitious beliefs and customs
must of themselves disappear, for no one, except the most
ignorant and simple-minded, can believe in such things.
In these schools the system of teaching is quite Lutheran,
and the young people are brought up according to the rules
of true Christian religion. The monasteries are reduced in
number, and therefore can no longer, as in olden times,
shelter great numbers of idle folk, who are a burden to the
state and a danger in times of revolt. Now, the monks
are obliged to learn what is useful, and everything is
ordered in a praiseworthy manner. Miracles and relics
no longer command the reverence they formerly did; in
Russia, as in Germany, people have begun to believe
that there is much swindling in connection with religious
ceremonial.”
I know the Tsarevitch has read this book. What must
his feelings have been during the perusal!
I was present one day when, while at their wine in the
oakgrove of the Summer Garden, where the Tsar likes to
converse with the clergy, the Administrator of Spiritual
Affairs, the Archimandrite Theodosius, was elaborating
reasons: “Why and in what sense the Roman Emperors,
both pagan and Christian, termed themselves Pontifex and
high priests of the polytheistic faith.” It appeared that the
Tsar was the head prelate, High Priest, and Patriarch.
This Russian monk very skilfully and adroitly proved
that, according to “Leviathan” by the English Atheist
Hobbes, the maxim “Civitatem et ecclesiam eandem rem
esse”—“the state and the church are one and the same”—certainly
did not advocate converting the state into a
church, but on the contrary, the conversion of the church
into the state. The monstrous animal—Leviathan, fabric
of the state—was swallowing up the Church of God, so that
there would remain no trace of it. These discussions might
serve as an interesting monument of monkish cringing and
flattery before the sovereign.
It is said that already at the end of last year, 1714, the
Tsar called together the spiritual and lay dignitaries, to
whom he solemnly declared that he wishes to be the sole
head of the Russian Church, and leaves it to them to
establish a spiritual association under the name of the
“Holy Synod.”
The Tsar is planning a campaign against India, in the
footsteps of Alexander the Great. To imitate Alexander
and Caesar, to unite the East with the West, to found a new
world-wide monarchy, these are the Russian Tsar’s deepest
and dearest desires.
Theodosius tells the Tsar, “You are the God of the Earth,”
For this is the meaning of Divus Caesar.
At the Poltava celebrations the Russian Tsar was represented
on one of the allegorical pictures as Apollo, the
ancient Sun-God.
I learn that the dead heads which are still on the poles
near Trinity Church, opposite to the Senate-house, were
the heads of Raskolniks who have been beheaded for calling
the Tsar “Antichrist.”
October 20.
An old invalid, an army captain, comes sometimes into
our kitchen. He is a pathetic-looking moth-eaten creature;
his head trembles, his nose is red, and he has a wooden leg;
he terms himself a “granary rat.” I treat him to brandy
and tobacco, and we talk about Russian military affairs.
He is very cheerful and sprinkles his speech with quaint
sayings, such as “A soldier serves a hundred years yet does
not earn a hundred sous;” “Grain is satisfying, water intoxicating;”
“Shave with an awl, warm thyself with smoke.”
He has three doctors—brandy, garlic and Death.
When almost a child he became a drummer boy; he has
taken part in all the campaigns from Asoff to Poltava, and
has been rewarded by the Father Tsar with a handful of
nuts and a kiss on the head. When speaking of the Tsar
he seems to become transfigured; and to-day he told me
about the battle near the Red Farm.
“We stood firm for the House of the Holy Virgin, the
Serene Majesty our Tsar, and the Christian Faith; we died
for one another. We all cried with a great voice: ‘Lord
God! Help us!’ Then we beat the Swedish regiments,
both infantry and artillery, by the help of the prayers of
the saints of Holy Moscow.”
He also attempted to repeat the Tsar’s speech to his army.
“‘Children I have begotten you in the sweat of my toil.
The state cannot exist without you, any more than the
body without a soul. You have shown your love to God,
to me, and your country; you have not spared your lives.’”
The old man suddenly started up on his wooden leg, his
nose grew redder yet, a tear hung on its tip like a dewdrop
on a ripe plum, and waving his old hat he exclaimed:
“Vivat! vivat! vivat! Peter the Great! Emperor
of all the Russias!”
Up till now I had heard no one call the Tsar “Emperor,”
yet I was not surprised. Such fire lit up the dim eyes of the
“granary rat” that a cold shiver ran through me; a vision
of ancient Rome seemed to flash before me; I heard the
rustle of victorious standards, the trampling of brazen
cohorts, the cries of soldiers, the acclamations of divine
Caesar, ‘Divus Caesar Imperator!’
October 23.
We have been to the People’s market on the Trinity
square, a long whitewashed building erected by the Italian
architect Tresina; it is roofed with tiles and has arcades,
such as are seen in Verona or Padua. We went into the
bookshop, the first and only one in Petersburg, which has
been opened by order of the Tsar; Basil Evdokimoff, a
printer, is the manager. Besides books, Slavonic and
translated, there are sold here calendars, decrees, primers,
plans of battles, and “royal persons”; that is, portraits,
and pictures of triumphant entries. The books sell badly.
In the course of two or three years not a single copy of some
publications has been sold. Calendars and decrees in relation
to bribes sell better than anything else.
The director of the first printing press in Petersburg, a
certain Avrámoff, a strange but rather clever man, whom
we chanced to meet in the shop, told us how difficult it is
to get the foreign books translated into Russian. The
Tsar is always in a great hurry, and demands, under threat
of severe lashing, that the book should be translated in an
impossibly short time, intelligibly and in good style. The
translators weepingly complain that it is impossible to
hurry with the involved German style, which is incomprehensible,
confused and heavy. Sometimes it has happened
that despite incredible labour ten lines a day could not be
rendered successfully. Boris Wolkoff, the translator to
the foreign department, despaired of translating Le
Jardinage de Quintiny, and, fearing the Tsar’s wrath,
killed himself by opening his veins.
Knowledge does not come easily to Russians.
These translations which cost so much sweat, and even
blood, are neither read nor needed by any one. Not long
ago a number of books which did not sell, and which were
taking up too much room in the shop, were piled up in the
shed of the Armoury court. During the flood they were
covered with water, and they are now spoilt, partly by
damp, partly by hemp oil, which, for some inexplicable
reason, has found its way among them, while many are
mouse-eaten.
November 14.
We have been to the theatre. The large wooden structure,
the “Comedy House,” is not far off the Foundry.
The performance begins at six p.m., for which tickets,
printed on stout paper, can be obtained in a separate
office; the poorest seat costs forty kopecks. The audiences
are scanty, and, but for the court, the actors would die
of starvation. The felt on the walls does not prevent the
building being cold, damp and draughty; the tallow candles
smoke; the poor music is always out of tune, and, to
crown all, the people in the pit noisily crack their nuts and
rail at one another the whole time. The comedy of “Don
Juan and Don Pedro” was the piece, a Russian translation
from the German, which itself was an adaptation from the
French “Don Juan.” After every act the curtain went
down, leaving us in utter darkness during the scene shifting.
My neighbour, chamberlain Brandenstein, was very much
put out by this. He whispered to me: “Welch ein Hund
von Komödie ist das?”—“What devil of a comedy is this?”
I could hardly restrain my laughter. Don Juan was in
the garden talking with the woman he had seduced.
“Come my love, let us recall that pleasant time when
undisturbed we enjoyed the delights of spring, the green
buds of love. Let our rapture be completed by the sight
of these flowers and their delicious smell.”
I liked the song:
He who knows not love
Know not what deceit is.
They call a God, this love
Who torments more than death does.
Each act was followed by an intermezzo which generally
ended in a scuffle.
Bibernstein, who had dropped asleep, had a silk handkerchief
stolen from his pocket; young Loewenwold a silver
snuff-box.
Another piece followed, entitled “Daphne, pursued by
the love sick Apollo, is transformed into a Laurel tree.”
Apollo threatens the nymph:
I will force thee to submit,
I really cannot suffer it.
She answers:
You so rudely do behave,
That to love you I don’t crave.
At this moment some drunken grooms began fighting
together at the entrance. People hurried to separate them;
they were whipped, and the dialogue of the God and the
Nymph was drowned amid groans and ribald shouting.
At last the morning star Phosphoros announced: “The
play is over, our best thanks to you, ’tis time for bed.”
We were given a manuscript programme announcing a
performance in another tent: “For fifty kopecks each person
will be entitled to witness the performance of ‘Doctor
Faustus’ by Italian Marionettes or Dolls, two yards high,
who will walk about the stage, and act almost as adroitly
as living actors. The Trained Horse will perform as before.”
I must confess, I never expected to see Faustus in Petersburg,
much less in the company of a learned horse!
Not long ago, at this same theatre, Molière’s “Précieuses
ridicules” was performed. I procured the translation and
read it. The Tsar had ordered one of his fools, the
“King of the Samoyeds,” to make the translation; the
translator was probably drunk when he did it, for some of
the passages were quite unintelligible. Poor Molière! the
monstrous galanteries of a Samoyed are as graceful as those
of a white dancing bear.
November 23.
A hard frost with a piercing wind, a real ice-storm. The
noses and ears of pedestrians are frostbitten before they
know it. It is said that in one night 700 working men have
been frozen to death between Petersburg and Kronslot.
Wolves have appeared in the streets, even in the centre
of the town; a few days ago wolves fell on the sentinel at
night near the foundry, which is close to the theatre where
“Daphne and Apollo” had been performed. Another
soldier came to his rescue, but he too was almost instantly
torn to pieces and devoured. A woman and her child have
been eaten by wolves in broad daylight, not far from Prince
Ménshikoff’s palace on the Basil Island.
Not less terrible than the wolves are the robbers. Sentry
huts, barriers, hunting poles, sentinels with large clubs
and night watches, “like those in Hamburg,” do not suffice
to intimidate the robbers. Every night, either some house
is broken into, or some stealthy burglary or murder takes
place.
November 30.
A moist wind—and the snow and ice have melted. The
mud is impassable. There is a stench of marsh, dung, and
rotten fish. Epidemics abound.
December 4.
Again frost—frost without snow. It is so slippery that
one runs the risk of breaking one’s neck at every step.
And these changes of temperature continue throughout
the winter. Nature seems not only cruel, but positively
mad.
An unnatural city! How can art and knowledge flourish?
They have a saying here: “No time for luxuries—we
can only just manage to live.”
December 10.
Went to an Assembly—a rout at Tolstoi’s:
Mirrors, glass, powder, beauty spots, hoop-petticoats,
and curtesies and bows—just as we have in Europe, in
Paris and in London.
The host himself is an amiable, learned man. He translates
Ovid’s Metamorphoses, and the political advice
of Niccolo Machiavelli, the noble citizen of Florence. He
took me through the minuet, addressing me with compliments
from Ovid. He compared me to Galatea, because of
my skin, “white as marble,” and my black hair, “the
colour of hyacinth”—an entertaining old gentleman!
clever, yet a thorough paced knave. I will note down a
few sayings of this modern Machiavelli:
“When good luck comes it is not enough to grasp it with
both hands, try also to catch hold of it with your teeth and
swallow it.”
“To live in high favour is like walking on a glass
floor.”
“A lemon which is too much squeezed will give bitterness
instead of flavour.”
“To know the human mind and character is the highest
philosophy. It is more difficult to understand men than
to know many books by heart.”
Listening to Tolstoi’s witty remarks—he spoke to me, now
in Russian, now in Italian—to the delicate strains of the
French minuet, I looked at the polite gathering of ladies
and gentlemen where everything was almost the same as
“in Paris or London,” yet I could not forget what I had
just seen on my way thither. Before the Senate on the
Trinity Square rose those gaunt poles, bearing the same
heads as in May at the time of the masquerade. They dried,
grew wet, froze, melted, froze again, and still they had not
disappeared. A huge moon was rising from behind Trinity
Church, and the black heads stood out sharply against the
red glow. A crow perched on one of them, cawing and
pecking at the skin. This vision was before me all the
evening. Asia was casting a shadow over Europe.
The Tsar arrived; he was not in a good humour. He
shook his head and shrugged his shoulders in such a way as
to make every one present tremble. On entering the dancing
room he found it too hot, and wanted a window opened.
The windows were nailed up on the outside. The Tsar
ordered an axe to be brought, and together with two orderlies
he set to work upon it. He ran out into the street to
see how the window had been nailed up. At last he succeeded
in getting the frame out. The window remained
open only for a short time, and it was not cold outside;
snow was again melting, and a west wind was blowing.
Yet, nevertheless, it caused a strong draught in the rooms,
and the lightly dressed ladies and shivery old men did not
know what to do with themselves. This performance had
tired Peter and had made him perspire, but he seemed in
better spirits.
“Your Majesty,” said the Austrian Resident Pleyer, a
very courteous gentleman, “you have broken a window
into Europe.”
The seal which was used for sealing the Tsar’s letters
addressed to Russia during his first journey abroad, represented
a young carpenter surrounded by a shipwright’s
tools and the arms of war, with the inscription:—
“I am a scholar, and what I ask for is teachers.”
Another emblem of the Tsar’s is Prometheus bringing a
burning torch to men from the gods.
The Tsar says: “I will create a new race of men.”
The following story was related to me by the “granary
rat.” The Tsar desires that oaks should be grown everywhere,
and was himself planting some acorns near Petersburg,
along the Peterhof road. Noticing that one of the
bystanders, a dignitary, was smiling at his work, the Tsar
angrily remarked:
“I understand; you think I shall not live to see the full-grown
oaks; you are right. Nevertheless you are a fool:
I set an example for others to follow, so that our descendants
may one day use these trees for building ships. It is not
for myself I toil; the welfare of the state comes first.”
Another story from the same source.
A decree of his Majesty commanded that all children of
the nobility should matriculate in Moscow at the Soukhareva
Tower for the learning of Navigation. The nobility,
however, instead, enrolled their children at the Spassky
monastery in Moscow to learn Latin. On hearing this the
monarch was sorely angered and ordered the Governor of
Moscow, Prince Romodanovsky, to take all the children
from the monastery and bring them to Petersburg, where
they were made to drive in piles along the Moika for the
foundation of hemp sheds. The Admiral, Count Fédor
Apraksin, Prince Ménshikoff, Prince James Dolgorúki, and
other senators, not daring to trouble his Majesty, petitioned
his Majesty’s helpmate, the Tsaritsa Catherine, on their
knees, with tears in their eyes; yet it was impossible
to appease his Majesty’s wrath. Then Admiral Apraksin
conceived this plan: he set watchmen to let him know
when the Emperor should drive past the working children.
Directly they informed him that the Tsar was
coming, Apraksin hurried up to the young toiling boys,
took off his decoration and kaftan, hung them on a pole,
and began to drive in piles with the children. The Tsar
noticing the Admiral thus employed stopped and said to
him:—
“Fédor Matvievitch! you are an Admiral and a Knight.
Why do you drive in piles?”
To which the Admiral replied:—
“My nephews and grandsons are driving in piles, and
who am I specially to enjoy the prerogatives of rank? As
for the decoration granted to me by your Majesty, it hangs
on the post, I have not dishonoured it.”
On hearing this the Tsar continued on his way to the
palace, and twenty-four hours later he published a decree
liberating the young nobles; yet at the same time he
enrolled them to learn divers practical crafts and arts
abroad. He was angered; and so even after driving in piles
they did not escape technical instruction.
One of the few Russians, who are in sympathy with the
new order of things, said to me in reference to the Tsar:—
“Whatever you look at in Russia has been started by
him; and anything done in the future will be traced back
to this origin. He has renewed all things, has caused
Russia to be born anew.”
December 28.
The Tsarevitch has returned as unexpectedly as he went.
January 26, 1715.
We had visitors; Baron Loewenwold, the Austrian
Resident Pleyer, the Hanoverian Secretary Weber, and the
court physician Blumentrost. After supper, over the wine,
conversation turned on the new ways introduced by the
Tsar. They spoke freely, being among themselves, with no
strangers or Russians present.
“The Muscovites,” said Pleyer, “do everything because
they are compelled to do it. Should the Tsar die, farewell
to all knowledge. Russia is a country where everything
is begun and nothing finished. The Tsar acts upon his
people like strong brandy on iron; he drives knowledge
into his subjects with the lash and the rod, believing in
the Russian proverb: ‘the stick though dumb can teach.’
Puffendorf was right in describing this people as:
‘a servile people who humble themselves like slaves,
and love to be kept in obedience by the cruelty of their
rulers.’ To them would also apply the words of Aristotle,
as to barbarians in general: ‘quod in libertate mali, in
servitute boni sunt.’ True enlightenment inspires hatred
of slavery. And the Russian Tsar is by the nature of his
power a despot; what he needs are slaves. That is why he
zealously introduces arithmetic, navigation, fortification,
and other elementary and useful knowledge to his people;
yet he will never let his subjects gain that true enlightenment
which requires freedom. And, after all, he himself
neither understands nor likes it; all he seeks in knowledge
is utility. He prefers Perpetuum mobile, the absurd
invention of Orphireus, to all the philosophy of Leibnitz.
Æsop he considers to be the greatest philosopher. He has
prohibited the translation of Juvenal, declaring that the
composer of a single satire will be liable to the severest
torture. Enlightenment stands in the same relation to the
power of Russia’s Tsars as sunshine to the snow. When
feeble the snow shimmers and dazzles; when strong the
snow melts.”
“Who can tell,” remarked Weber with a meaning smile,
“the Russians in taking Europe for their pattern may have
honoured her above her deserts. Imitation is always
dangerous. Vices are more easily imitated than virtues,
as a Russian well expressed it. The foreign infectious
corruption eats out the ancient health of Russian souls and
bodies; roughness of character has lessened, but only
flattery and servility have taken its place; we have
outlived our old common-sense, but we have not acquired
any new sense; we shall all die fools!’”
“The Tsar,” rejoined Baron Loewenwold, “is far from
being the humble pupil of Europe for which many take him.
One day, when French customs and temperament were
highly praised in his presence, he said: ‘It is well to imitate
their arts and science—as for the rest, Paris is rotten,’ and
then he added with a prophetic air, ‘I am sorry that the
inhabitants of that town will perish from its corruption.’
I have not heard it myself, but I was told another saying
of his which friends of Russia in Europe would do well to
remember, ‘L’Europe nous est nécessaire pour quelques
dizaines d’années; après quoi nous lui tournerons le
dos.’—‘We need Europe for some few decades, after which
we will turn our backs upon her.’”
Count Pepper gave some extracts from a book which had
lately been published, “La crise du nord” about the war
between Russia and Sweden, in which it was proved that
the Russian victory was a sign that the end of the world
was drawing nigh, and that the insignificance of Russia was
necessary for the welfare of Europe. The Count also
recalled the words of Leibnitz which were uttered by the
great philosopher before Poltava, while he was still the
friend of Sweden: “Muscovy will be a second Turkey and
will open the way to new barbarisms, which will annihilate
all European civilization!”
Blumentrost reassured us, saying that brandy, together
with venereal diseases, which had spread with amazing
rapidity during late years from Poland across to the White
Sea, would depopulate Russia in less than a century.
“Brandy and syphilis are, so to speak, two scourges sent
by God’s providence to save Europe from a new invasion
of barbarians.”
“Russia,” concluded Pleyer, “is a brazen Colossus on
clay feet. It will fall and break, and nothing will remain.”
I profess no great love for the Russians myself, but I did
not expect my compatriots to hate Russia so much. To me
there seems behind this hatred a secret fear; as if we
Germans had a presentiment that one will eventually
swallow up the other, either we them, or they us.
January 17.
“Well, Fräulein Juliana, what have you decided about
me? Am I fool or a knave?” The Tsarevitch stopped
me this morning on the staircase with this question.
At first I could not understand what he meant, and,
thinking he was drunk, I tried to pass without answering
him. Yet he detained me, and continued, looking me
straight in the face:—
“It will be interesting to know which of us will eat up
the other, you us, or we you?”
Then only did I perceive that he had read my diary.
I had lent it to her Highness for a short time, as she had
expressed the desire to read it; the Tsarevitch had, probably,
been in her room in her absence and seeing the diary
he had read it.
I was so confused, that I was ready to fall through the
earth. I blushed up to the very roots of my hair, almost
crying like a school-girl trapped in a fault. And he
continued to scrutinise me in silence, as if delighting
in my confusion. At last, making a desperate effort, I
tried to escape, but he caught hold of my hand. My heart
sank within me for very fear.
“Well, you have been caught, Fräulein,” he laughed in
a merry, kind way. “Be more prudent in the future. It
is well that I, and not somebody else, read it. Your Ladyship
has a tongue as sharp as a razor, I must say, though all
had their share. But, to be candid, there is much truth in
what you say about us; there really is. And though you
don’t pat us on the back, yet we ought to be grateful for
your frankness.”
He stopped laughing, and with a bright smile he warmly
squeezed my hand like a comrade, as if he were really thanking
me for the truth.
A strange man. These Russians are as a rule strange
beings. It is impossible to foretell what they will do or
say next.
The more I think over it, the more it seems that there is
something in them which we Europeans cannot, and never
will be able to understand. To us they are the inhabitants
of another planet.
February 2.
When passing along the corridor this evening, the Tsarevitch
hearing my footsteps called, and asked me to come
into the dining-room; he was alone, sitting before the
hearth in the dusk. He made me sit down opposite to him,
and began to talk to me, first in German, then in Russian;
he spoke affectionately, as if we had been old friends. He
told me things of considerable interest, but I will not put
all down; it would be dangerous both for him and myself
while I am in Russia. Here are just a few stray thoughts.
What amazed me most of all was to find that he is in no
wise such a zealous partisan of all that is old, and enemy of
all that is new, as he is generally believed to be.
He repeated me a Russian proverb, “Age always commends
its own baldness.” Wrong is deep seated in Russia,
and unless the old edifice is taken to pieces, and every log
carefully scrutinized, it will be impossible to get rid of
the ancient rot and decay.
The Tsar’s fault lies in his hurry.
“My father will have everything done quickly; one,
two, three, and a ship is built! He won’t see that
rapidity does not always mean durability. A blow, a
knock, the wheel is made. Take your seat, away we go,
how delightful! Suddenly a look behind—the loose
spokes are all over the ground!”
February 18.
The Tsarevitch has a note book wherein he copies passages
from The Chronicles of Church and State, by Baronius,
which he says apply to himself, his father and others in such
a way as to illustrate the difference between what used to be
and what exists now. He lent me the notes to look at.
They reveal a probing and liberal mind. In reference to
several legends in which the miraculous is obviously exaggerated
(it is true they belonged to the Roman Catholic period)
I saw annotations of this kind; “Compare with the Greek.”
“Doubtful.” “This is hardly true.”
But I was most interested in those notes, in which he
compared historical facts and incidents of ancient Russia
and foreign nations with the Russia of to-day.
A.D. 395.—“The Emperor Arcadius ordered all those
who in the least degree deviated from orthodoxy to be
called heretics.” (An allusion to the non-orthodoxy of the
Russian Tsar.)
A.D. 455.—“The Emperor Valentinian was slain for
interfering with the rights of the Church as to adultery.”
(An allusion to the abolition of the Patriarchate, and the
Tsar’s marriage with Catherine during the lifetime of his
first wife, Eudoxia Lopoukhin.)
A.D. 514.—“Long coats were worn in France. Charles
the Great ordered short coats. Praised be the long coats,
shame upon the short ones.” (This was noted with reference to
the present change of Russian dress.)
A.D. 814.—“A monk induced the Emperor Leo to
reject the worship of ikons.” (An allusion to the monk Theodosius,
the Tsar’s chaplain, who, it is said, advises the
Tsar to abolish the reverence of ikons.)
A.D. 854.—“The Emperor Michael played with the
Church sacraments.” (An allusion to the institution of the
conclave of drunkards, the wedding of the mock Patriarch,
and many other diversions of the Tsar.)
Here are a few more thoughts.
“In relation to the Papal power: Christ pronounced all
His disciples equal. To say that it is impossible to be saved
without the absolution of the Church is an obvious lie, for
Christ said, ‘he who believes on Me shall have life everlasting,’
not on the Roman Church, which did not exist at
that time. Many people were saved long before the
Apostles’ preaching had even reached Rome.”
“The Mohammedan irreligion spread owing to women.
Women have a liking for false prophets.” These few words,
worthy of the great sceptic Beyle, reveal more about
Mohammed than any of the learned researches.
Tolstoi said to me one day, with his sly foxy smile, in
reference to the Tsarevitch: “The best way to gain popularity
is this, in case of necessity to be able to don the skin
of the stupidest of beasts.”
I did not comprehend his meaning at the time, only now
am I beginning to understand.
In a work by an antique English writer—I forget his
name—entitled: “The Tragedy of Hamlet the Dane,”
this unhappy prince, persecuted by his enemies, pretends
to be either a fool or a madman.
Is the Russian prince following Hamlet’s example?
Has he not donned the hide of the simplest of the beasts?
It is rumoured that the Tsarevitch once had the courage
to be candid with his father, and pleaded before him the
people’s intense suffering. He has been in disgrace ever
since.
February 23.
He tenderly loves his little daughter Natasha.
To-day he spent the whole of the morning sitting with
her on the floor, building houses and huts out of small
wooden logs. He crawled about on all fours, making
believe to be a dog, a horse, a wolf. He played at ball, and
when it rolled under the bed or cupboard he fetched it out
again, covering himself with dust and cobwebs. He took
her to his room, dandling her and showing her to everybody
saying:—
“Is she not a fine girl? Where can you find another
like her?”
He himself played with her like a little boy.
Natasha is clever beyond her age. When she wants to
seize something forbidden and you threaten to tell her
mother, she at once becomes quiet, but if you simply tell
her to stop, she will begin to laugh and continue all the
more. When she sees that her father is in an ill-humour
she is very quiet and only gazes at him; if he turns to her
she laughs loudly and waves her hands.
She fondles him like a grown up person.
I have a queer feeling when I watch her doing this. The
child not only seems to love him, but also to pity him, as if
she knew and saw something about him which no one else
is yet aware of. It is an uncanny feeling, like that which I
felt when I saw the father and mother in a dark prophetic
mirror.
March 2.
“I know she loves me; she left everything for my sake,”
he said once in reference to his wife.
Now that I understand the Tsarevitch better, I no longer
can attach all the blame to him only for their hard life
together. Both are innocent and both at fault. They are
too different, too melancholy, each in their own way. Small
common griefs unite, but grief great and intense divides.
They are like two persons seriously ill—wounded—lying
on a bed together. They cannot help each other: and
the least movement of either causes pain to both.
There are people to whom suffering has become second
nature; without it they feel out of their natural element.
With such persons thoughts and sentiments once having
drooped will droop perpetually, like the branches of a
weeping willow. Her Highness is one of these beings.
The Tsarevitch has much grief of his own, and every time
he sees his wife, he sees another grief, a grief which cannot
be allayed, so he pities her. But love and pity are not one
and the same; he who wants to be loved must eschew pity.
I know from personal experience what torture it is to pity
where no help can be given; at last one begins to dread him
for whom pity has so long proved in vain.
Yes, both are innocent, both are unhappy, and no one
but God can help them. Poor, poor couple! I dread what
all this may lead to; yet it were better if the end come soon.
March 7.
Her Highness is again with child.
May 12.
We are in Roshdestveno, the Crown Prince’s country
house, seventy versts away from Petersburg, in the Koporsky
district.
I have been ill for a long time. They thought I should
die. The thought of dying in Russia was more terrible to
me than death itself. Her Highness brought me here to
Roshdestveno to give me a rest and chance of recovering my
strength in the pure air.
Woods surround us; all is peaceful; nothing is heard
save the rustling of leaves and the warbling of birds. The
small river Oredesh hurries along like a torrent; its murmuring
rises from beneath the steep slope of red clay, which is
now shrouded in a transparent haze of young birch leaves,
broken by the dark green of the firs.
The wooden country-house is built like the simple village
huts. The principal hall, two stories high with a terem like
the Moscow palaces, is not yet finished. Next to it stands
a small chapel, with belfry and two bells, which the Tsarevitch
delights in ringing himself. At the gates an old
Swedish cannon and a small heap of iron balls which are
covered with rust and overgrown with grass and yellow
spring flowers. Altogether this is a real monastery—a kind
of cloister in the woods.
The walls inside the houses are bare and show the beams;
there is a scent of resin, with amber drops trickling like tears
everywhere. Holy lamps are glimmering before the
images. All is bright, fresh, clean, and innocently young.
The Tsarevitch is fond of this spot. He says he would
like to live here always, and demands nothing better than
to be left alone.
He reads, writes in the library, prays in the chapel, works
in the garden and the orchard, fishes and roams about the
forest. At this moment I see him from the window of my
room. He has just been digging in the beds, planting bulbs
of tulips from Haarlem; now he stands resting on the spade,
as still, as if he were trying to catch some sound. Infinite
stillness reigns around. Only the axe of a woodcutter is
heard somewhere far, far away in the wood, and the call of
the cuckoo. His face is calm and joyous. His lips are
moving; he is probably humming one of his favourite
prayers or hymns, the akathist of his saint, Alexis the Man
of God, or the Psalm:
“I will sing unto the Lord all the days of my life. I will
sing unto my God while I have my being.”
May 16.
Nowhere have I seen such evening glows as here. To-day
the sunset was particularly strange; the whole of the sky
bathed in blood, red clouds were scattered like rags of
bloodstained garments; it seemed as though a murder or
some sacrifice had been performed in the skies, and that
blood was running down from heaven upon the earth.
Amid the jet-black pointed needles of the firwood the
patches of red clay showed like blood stains.
As I stood looking in amazement I heard a voice from
somewhere above me, coming as it were from this terrible
sky:
“Fräulein Juliana!”
It was the Tsarevitch who called me, standing on the
dove house, in his hand a long pole, such as are used here
to scare away doves. He is a great lover of doves.
I went up the shaky ladder and on reaching the platform
the white doves started, like snow flakes to which the evening
glow had given a roseate hue, surrounding us with the wind
and rustle of their wings.
We sat down on the bench, and, little by little, drifted
again, as we had repeatedly done of late, into a religious
discussion.
“Your Martin Luther has allowed himself to be guided
by the Spirit of the world and by his own personal predilections,
not by the steadfastness of his soul. And you, poor
things, have allowed yourselves to be caught by the allurement
of an easy life.
“You have believed the words of your seducer and you left
the narrow difficult path ordained by Christ Himself.
Martin has shown himself to be an universal fool; the great
poison of the serpent of hell is hid in his teaching.”
I have got used to Russian pleasantries and no longer take
any notice of them; reasonable proofs avail as much in
arguing with such people, as a rapier against a club. But
this time I was roused, for some reason or other, and I spoke
out all that for a long time I had stored up within my heart.
I began by showing that the Russians, while considering
themselves superior to all Christian people, lived in reality
worse than heathens; they confess the law of love, and
yet practise such cruelties as are met with nowhere else in
the world; they fast, and during the fast they drink like
beasts; they go to church and use the most shocking
expressions there; they are so ignorant that in Germany
young children know more about religion than adults and
priests in Russia. Hardly one out of a dozen could say the
Lord’s Prayer. A pious old woman answered my question,
who is the third person in the Trinity? by asserting he
was St. Nicholas the wonderworker. And really this
Nicholas is a true Russian God, and one might easily believe
that they had none other God but he. Not in vain did the
Swedish theologian Botivid in 1620, discuss the question in a
thesis at the Upsala Academy, “Are the Muscovites
Christians?” I know not how much more I would have said
had not the Tsarevitch stopped me; he had the whole time
listened with perfect calmness, it was this calm that exasperated
me.
“I have meant for a long time, to ask you, Fräulein:
Do you believe in the Divinity of Christ?”
“What do you mean? Does not your Highness know
that all we Lutherans——”
“I do not speak generally now, I am asking you in
particular. I had once a talk with your teacher Leibnitz:
he shifted and shuffled, avoiding a direct answer, but, nevertheless,
I at once saw that he did not truly believe in Christ.
And now what about you?”
He steadily looked at me. I cast down my eyes, and
for some inexplicable reason suddenly remembered all my
doubts, my debates with Leibnitz, the unsolvable contradictions
of metaphysics and theology.
“I think,” said I, trying also to shuffle, “that Christ
was the best and wisest of the sons of men.”
“And not God’s son?”
“We are all sons of God.”
“And is He like unto the rest?”
Unwilling to lie I remained silent.
“Well, that is the point,” he said, with such an expression
on his face as I had never seen before. “Your people are
wise, learned, strong, honourable, famous. You have
everything; but you don’t possess Christ, and you don’t
need Him, you save yourselves. We, on the other hand,
are stupid, poor, naked, drunk, repugnant, we are worse
than barbarians, worse than beasts, and are ever on the
brink of falling. But we have the Christ, our Lord with
us, and with us He will remain from eternity to eternity.
It is by Him, our Light, that we are saved.”
He spoke about Christ as I had noticed the common
people, the moujiks, speak here, as if He were their own,
one of their family, a moujik just like themselves. I know
not whether this is a sign of the highest pride and blasphemous,
or, one of the greatest humility and sanctity.
We both remained silent. The doves were returning
to their house, and settling down thickly between us, their
white fluttering wings as it were uniting us.
Her Highness sent for me. When I had come down, I
turned round to have a last look at the Tsarevitch; he was
feeding the doves. They had surrounded him, perched
on his hands, shoulders, head. He stood there high above
the black charred wood in the red bloodstained sky,
covered with them, as if wrapt in white wings.
October 31, 1715.
Now that all is over I will end this diary also.
We had returned to Petersburg from Roshdestveno towards
the end of May. About the middle of August—ten
weeks before the time of her Highness’s delivery, she
fell on the stairs and hurt her left side. They say she
made a false step, because the heel of her slipper was broken,
but in reality she fainted. She had seen below in the
courtyard the Tsarevitch drunk, embracing and kissing
his mistress, the serf-girl Afrossinia.
He had been living with her for a long time; he does it
almost publicly; on his return from Karlsbad he took her
into the quarter of the house which he inhabits. I did not
mention this in my diary, afraid lest her Highness should
read it.
Did she know? Even if she did, she tried not to know,
she did not believe it till she saw it. A serf-girl is the
rival of the Duchess of Wolfenbüttel—the Emperor’s
sister-in-law. “Things which never happen, happen in
Russia,” said a Russian to me. The father with a laundress,
the son with a serf-girl!
Some say she is a Finnish woman, taken prisoner by
soldiers in the same way as the Tsaritsa; others say she is
a serf belonging to the tutor of the Tsarevitch—Nikiphor
Viasemski; the latter statement seems more probable.
She is handsome enough, yet her low origin is at once
obvious. She is tall, fair-skinned, and has auburn hair,
her nose is slightly turned up; her eyes are large, clear,
slanting and almond shape like a Kalmuck’s, with the untamed
gaze of a wild goat. She seems, on the whole, to
have something goat-like about her, like the female satyr
in Rubens’ picture of the Bacchanalia. It is one of those
faces which revolt us women, and almost invariably please
men. The Tsarevitch is supposed to be madly in love with
her. It is said that when they first met she was innocent,
shy, tameless, and for a long time resisted him. He did
not please her at all. Neither promises nor threats would
help. But once, after a drinking bout, he met her in one
of those fits of madness which he, like his father, is subject
to. He beat her unmercifully and nearly killed her; then
threatening to stab, at last seduced her. Russian manners!
And this is the same being who looked so like a saint
when in the woods of Roshdestveno, sang the akathist to
Alexis the Man of God, and, surrounded by doves, spoke
about the Lord Christ! For the rest, it is a special Russian
gift to unite such extremes—a gift which, thank the Lord!
has as yet not been revealed to us foolish foreigners.
The Tsarevitch himself once told me: “We Russians
can never keep the middle path, but are always roving
either on the heights or in the abysses.”
After the fall her Highness felt a pain in her left side.
“I feel as if pins were pricking my body all over,” she
used to say, yet, on the whole, she was calm, as if she had
finally made up her mind, and knew that nothing would
alter her decision. She never talked to me about the
Tsarevitch again, neither did she complain of her lot.
Only once she said: “I know I am irrevocably doomed.
I hope my sufferings will soon end; I long for nothing in
the world so eagerly as for death. Death is my sole salvation.”
On October 12th she was safely delivered of a boy, the
future heir to the throne, Peter Alexeyevitch. The first
days after her confinement she felt well, yet when people
congratulated her, and wished her good health, she would
grow angry and ask everyone to pray God to send her
death. “I want to die, and die I will,” she said, with that
awful, calm determination which never left her again. She
obeyed neither doctors nor midwife; she seemed purposely
to do everything which was forbidden her. On the fourth
day she sat in an arm-chair, ordered herself to be carried
into another room, and gave the child the breast herself.
That same night she felt worse: fever set in, sickness,
convulsions and such pains, that she cried out more than
at the time of her delivery.
When the Tsar, who himself was ill at that time, knew
about it, he sent Prince Ménshikoff and four court physicians,
Areskin, Polikolo, and the two Blumentrosts, to hold a
consultation. They found her dying, in mortis limine.
When they tried to persuade her to take medicine she
tossed the glass to the ground, saying: “Don’t torment
me, let me go peacefully, I don’t want to live.”
The day before her death she summoned Baron Loewenwold
and communicated to him her last will: none of her
people were to speak ill of the Tsarevitch, either here or in
Germany; she was dying young, earlier than she expected,
yet she was content with her lot and blamed none.
Then she took leave of us all. She gave me her blessing
like a mother.
The Tsarevitch did not leave her. His face was terrible
to look at. He fainted three times. She did not talk to
him; it almost seemed that she did not recognise him.
Only just before all was over, when he pressed her hand
to his lips, she looked at him with a long look, and said
something in a low voice. All I could hear was:—
“Soon, soon we shall see each other again!”
She died as if she had fallen asleep. The dead face
expressed more happiness than it had ever shown in her
lifetime.
By the Tsar’s order a post mortem examination was
made, he himself being present.
The funeral was fixed for October 27th. There was a
long discussion whether the rank of a Crown Princess
demanded cannon to be fired at her funeral; if so, how
many guns to the salute. All the foreign ambassadors
were questioned on the subject. The Tsar troubled himself
more about this cannonade than he had ever troubled
himself about the lot of her Highness when alive. It was
decided not to fire.
The coffin was borne along a narrow bridge constructed
on purpose, from the house to the Neva. The Tsar and
Tsarevitch walked behind the coffin. The Tsaritsa was not
present—she hourly expected her delivery. A mourning
frigate stood waiting on the Neva; it was draped with
black, and black standards were hoisted on it. Slowly
to the sounds of funeral music, the ship bore us towards
the Peter and Paul Cathedral, not yet completed, where
the grave of the Crown Princess had to remain under the
open sky until the closing of the vaulted roof. The sky wept
over her when alive; it will rain on her when dead.
The evening was dull and calm, the sky seemed like the
vault of a grave; the Neva, a dark gloomy mirror. The
town, wrapped in mist appeared like a phantom or nightmare.
All I had experienced, seen, and heard in this
dreadful city, now, more than ever, seemed to me as a
dream.
From the cathedral we returned at night to the house
of the Tsarevitch, for a commemoration banquet. Here
the Tsar handed a letter to his son; I learnt later that he
threatened to disinherit and curse him unless he reformed.
The next day the Tsaritsa was delivered of a son.
The fate of Russia wavers between those two children,
the son and the grandson of the Tsar.
November 1.
I went in to the Tsarevitch last evening to talk over my
departure for Germany. He sat near the lighted stove
and was thrusting in burning papers, letters and manuscripts.
He is probably afraid of some search.
He was holding in his hand and was just about to throw
into the fire a small booklet in a well worn leather binding,
when—I am even now amazed at my presumption—I
inquired what it was. He handed it to me. I looked inside.
It was his diary and notes. The ruling passion of
women in general, and of myself in particular, is curiosity.
It made me be guilty of a still greater presumption, I
asked if I might borrow it to read.
He thought for a minute, then looking at me, and with
his sweet child-like smile of which I am so fond:
“Quid pro quo—I read your diary, you can read mine.”
He made me promise that I would never talk to anybody
about these notes and would return them to be burnt on
the morrow. I have sat up the whole night with them;
the booklet itself is really an old Russian calendar, a church
calendar printed at Kiev. It had been given to the Tsarevitch
by the late Metropolitan of Rostov, Demetrius, who
is counted a saint by the people. The Tsarevitch had put
down his thoughts and the events of his life partly on the
margin and the blank spaces on the pages, partly on separate
leaflets either simply inserted or pasted in.
I decided to make a copy of the diary.
I will not break my word, during my lifetime and his.
Nobody shall know about his notes. But they must not
be irrevocably lost.
God Himself will judge between father and son. But
men have slandered the Tsarevitch. Let this diary, should
it ever reach posterity, accuse or justify him, in any case
reveal the truth.
Crown with Thy loving kindness, O Lord, this
year which now begins!
When on commissariat duties in Pomerania by order
of the author of my being,[2] I heard that at Moscow,
in the church of the Assumption, Stephen, the
Metropolitan of Riazan, denounced the decree relating to
delators—informers in civil and church matters—and other
laws contrary to the Church, crying unto the people:—
“Be not amazed that rebellious Russia is agitated with
bloody storms. How great is the gulf between the laws of
man and the laws of God!”
The Senators came to the Metropolitan and accused him
of spreading revolt among the people and of touching upon
the Tsar’s honour. The whole incident was reported to the
Tsar.
I told the Metropolitan to reconcile himself with my
father as best he could. What advantage was there in their
being at variance with one another? I was anxious to see a
reconciliation, for if Stephen was deposed from his see, it
would be difficult to find any one worthy to replace him.
Previous to this exhortation he used to write to me and
I to him; not often, however, only on important affairs.
But since then I have stopped the correspondence, and
broken off all intercourse with him, as my father’s anger
was kindled against him, and it became therefore dangerous
for me to write any longer. It is rumoured he will
be deposed from his see.
The Metropolitan concluded the above-mentioned sermon
by praying to Saint Alexis, the Man of God, with
special reference to myself, a sinner:—
“O Saint of God! remember thy namesake, the chosen
keeper of God’s laws, thy most faithful follower, Tsarevitch
Alexis Petrovitch! Thou didst abandon thy house; he
too wanders among strangers. Thou wert bereft of slaves,
subjects, friends and relatives; so it is with him. Thou
art a man of God; he, too, is a true servant of Christ. We
beseech thee, O Saint of God! deign to protect thy namesake,
our only hope, shelter him under the cover of thy
wing, like a dearly beloved fledgeling, and keep him, who
is the very apple of our eyes, safe from all evil.”
During my stay in foreign parts, where by the will of the
author of my being I had to apply myself to the study of
navigation, fortification, geometry, and other arts, I greatly
feared to die without confession and the last rites of the
church. So I have written to my chaplain, Father James,
on the subject as follows:—
“We have no priest with us, nor is there any possibility
of our procuring one. I entreat your holiness to find me a
priest in Moscow and send him here secretly. Make
him discard all priestly insignia: shave his beard and let
hair grow over his tonsure, or else shave his hair too, and
wear a wig and foreign dress. Let him come under the
guise of an orderly of mine. Please father do it! Have
mercy upon my soul, and let me not die without the consolation
of the church. This is all I want him for in case of
death, and should I live, he would be my confessor. It
would be well if he were a young man, unmarried and
unattached. Let his departure from Moscow be kept so
secret that even his friends shall not know whither he has
gone. As to the shaving of the beard, let him have no
misgivings on the point; necessity alters even such laws;
it is better to transgress in minor things than to let a soul
perish without absolution. See to this without delay, and
should you refrain from doing as I ask you, God may have
to call you to account for my soul.”
On my return to Petersburg from abroad, the author of
my days welcomed me graciously and inquired whether I
still remembered what I had learnt? To which I replied
“Yes,” as if I really did; he then ordered me to bring him
my drawings. But I, fearing I could not please him, if
asked to draw in his presence, decided on injuring my
right hand and thus disable it for use. Loading a pistol, I
took it in my left hand and fired across my right palm;
though the bullet did not touch my hand, yet the powder
badly scorched it. The bullet embedded itself in the wall
of my closet where it has remained visible even unto this
day. The author of my being, noticing my burnt hand,
asked how it happened. I gave a false reason.
Chapter 7, Art. 63 of the military regulations: “Whoever
makes himself ill or breaks his limbs and thus unfits
himself for service is liable to have his nostrils torn, and be
condemned to forced labour.”
From the laws of Tsar Alexis Michailovitch, Chapter 22,
Art. 6: “And in the case of a son petitioning against his
father, no judgment shall be given; but he, having been
flogged for such petition, shall be delivered up to the
father.”
This is unjust, for though children are dependent upon
their parents’ will, yet they must not be treated like dumb
animals. The natural law is not fulfilled by the procreation
of children alone; humaneness forms also part of a father’s
duty.
I hear that the author of my days hates houses being
built in Moscow, for it is his will to live in Petersburg.
It lies not with one man alone to change national customs.
The country which changes its customs cannot
endure. The Russian people have forgotten the water in
their own cisterns, and have begun to slake their thirst with
the turbid waters of strangers.
Job, the Archimandrite of Novgorod, told me: “Evil
awaits thee in Petersburg, yet I feel God will deliver thee.
Thou wilt see what will happen.”
God has so willed it with us sinners that foreigners
do with us just as it pleases them. We all suffer from
a mania. This fatal illness is a mad passion for foreign
things and people, which has infected our whole nation.
Truly says the prophet Baruch: “Let a stranger come
near thee and he will destroy thee.” The Germans boast
and have a saying, ‘he who wants to eat bread without
work, let him go to Russia.’ They call us barbarians and
choose to reckon us among the beasts instead of men. They
try to make us out before other nations as worse than
dead dogs. It would be as well to stop some of these
foreign antics; they don’t come natural to us and we only
make a muddle in meddling with them. The foreign way
becomes with us the fool’s way. We degrade ourselves,
our language, our nation; and we expose ourselves to the
ridicule of every one.
The intrusion of foreign languages has spoilt the purity
of the Slavonic tongue. I know not what need we have to
use foreign words. It must be only to make a boast of,
there is little honour in doing it. Sometimes they speak in
a way that neither they themselves nor others can understand.
Sit not down under a stranger’s hedgerow. Rather
among nettles if they are thine own. A stranger’s wit
forsakes thee at the threshold. Keep thine own counsel;
thine own counsellors. Pleasant is the sound of the
tambours beyond the hill; but when brought hither they
are but baskets of bast.
Foreigners are far beyond us, I grant you, in knowledge;
yet in natural quickness of wit our people are, thank God,
not worse equipped than they, and they do wrong in railing
at us. I am persuaded that God created us Russians not
inferior to other human beings.
I doubt whether it be really true that man’s welfare
standeth on knowledge or the sciences alone. For folk
used to learn much less in the old days, and were happier
than we to-day with our much learning. It is possible with
much culture to be a rascal. Learning in a depraved
heart is a powerful weapon for evil.
We Russians can do without bread. We devour each
other, and are satisfied.
The boyars are great withered trees; their massive trunks
hide the people from the Tsar. My father is exceedingly
intelligent; yet Ménshikoff is always hoodwinking him.
All administrators, whether young or old, are greedy of
gain. The ancient laws have fallen into desuetude: the
new ones also count for nothing. What a number are
decreed! and to what purpose? Nothing is really changed.
I don’t see that much good will come of these reforms in
the future.
A sovereign’s duties:
Not to trust in one’s brilliancy of mind, but to be zealous
to protect the people, the land and the villages, and to
love, be zealous for, interested in the lesser brethren of Christ
and to know their needs. Severe shall be His judgment
upon the great and mighty ones! The little shall be forgiven,
but torment awaits the mighty ill-doers. This I
should do well to remember, should God grant me to become
Tsar.
On St. Eustace the martyr’s day we held high fête and
got grievously drunk. Our faces were well pummelled;
Jibanda had a blow in the eye, the Lasher lost a tooth.
I don’t remember anything, and I hardly know how I got
away. I was exceedingly filled with the gifts of Bacchus.
In Roshdestveno I remained at home alone. The days
flowed by like water; nothing save utter stillness.
Time passes and brings us nearer death; the end of our
days approaches; I recognise the frailty of my life.
I await death, but without fear or desire.
A little drunk.
My wife is pregnant.
Eros, Eros, heathen god! Passions have harassed me
from my youth up. I accuse others of godlessness, and am
myself the most godless of all. Afrossinia! I know my
iniquity and have not redeemed myself from shame. Thy
hand weighs heavily upon me, O Lord! When shall I
come and appear before God? my tears have been my meat,
day and night; and my soul fainteth for the courts of the
Lord.
I am amazed at my father. Why does he love Theodosius?
Is it because the latter introduces Lutheran customs
among the people and authorises everything? He
really is an atheist, and a deep enemy of the cross of the
Lord.
I have seldom seen so subtle a rogue. He is very adroit,
he will never do wrong openly. We must be on our guard
with him and be careful and stealthy in thwarting him,
since we are obliged to live under his orders.
The zeal of thine house hath eaten me up, O Lord. I am
sore afraid and troubled lest Christianity perish entirely in
Russia.
Theodosius, the heresiarch, and his crew have openly
begun to wage war against the Church; they abolish fasts,
they treat confession and self-immolation as nonsense;
they ridicule celibacy, self-imposed poverty, and change
other strait and narrow ways of the Christian life into the
smooth broad ways which lead to eternal damnation.
They fearlessly teach a debauched self-indulgent life; they
recognise no sin, everything is holy, and by their teaching
they have brought the children of the world into such
fearless voluptuousness, that many take up the mere Epicurean
attitude: “Eat, drink, and be merry. There
is no account to render after death.”
They call the holy icons idols, the church singing bulls’
roaring. They destroy chapels, and where the walls have
remained, they allow tobacco and barbers’ shops to be
opened. They take miracle-working icons away on stinking
dung carts under dirty mats, thus insolently defiling them
before the people. In this way they attack the Orthodox
faith, under the pretext that it is not Christianity, but only
useless and harmful superstitions which they are trying to
uproot. What a number of clergy have been destroyed,
unfrocked and tortured under this pretext! If you ask
for a reason, the only answer you get is: they were superstitious,
bigots, sanctimonious humbugs! He who keeps
fast is a bigot; he who prays, sanctimonious; he who
adores the icons, invariably (they say) a hypocrite.
All this is done with such cunning, and the intention both
to exterminate the Orthodox clergy in Russia, and to introduce
their newly invented Lutheran and Calvinistic, priestless
sects.
He is truly mad who does not detect in them the atheistic
spirit.
The church bells have been altered, they no longer chime,
but tinkle as if sounding an alarm. And everything else is
changed, the icons are painted, not on wood but on canvas,
after foreign models; for instance, the image of
Emmanuel the Saviour is quite like a German, fat, as if
conceived in the flesh; the fleshy type is preferred, the
celestial nature is ignored. The churches are no longer
built after the ancient style, but with pointed towers like
those in Germany, and the chimes even imitate Lutheran
organs.
Poor Russia! Why dost thou set thy heart on German
ways and actions?
There are to be no more monasteries; a decree is being
prepared which will prohibit the taking of fresh vows;
retired soldiers will fill the vacancies in the monasteries.
It is written “He who comes to me I will in no wise cast
out;” but they consider the scriptures as nothing.
As there is a military code, so now there exists a code of
faith.
What sort of prayer can that be, which is enforced by a
decree, under pain of punishment?
Beggars are to taken be up, ruthlessly beaten with rods,
and sent to hard labour, so that they may not eat their
bread unearned. This is the Tsar’s decree, while Christ
says, “For I was an hungered and ye gave me no meat.
I was thirsty and ye gave me no drink, I was a stranger
and ye took me not in, naked and ye clothed me not.
Verily I say unto you, inasmuch as ye did it not unto one of
the least of these, ye did it not to me.”
The whole of Russia is dying of spiritual famine. The
sower does not scatter the seed, the earth does not receive
it. The priests do not keep watch over the people who go
astray. The village priest cannot be distinguished from
a moujik. The moujik ploughs, the priest ploughs. And
meanwhile Christians die like cattle. Drunken priests use
obscene language and rail at one another within the sanctuary;
they wear a pall of gold, while their bast shoes are
dirty; the holy loaves are made of black rye flour; the
Lord’s holy host is kept in exceedingly vile vessels swarming
with bugs, cockroaches, and grasshoppers. Monks
have fallen into habits of tippling and stealing.
The whole monastic and priestly system calls for thorough
reform, as there hardly remains a trace of the true
priest and monk.
We are guilty of neither keeping our religion, such as it
is, nor maintaining our clergy in decency, but of living
almost like brutes. I doubt whether in Moscow one in a
hundred knows what the Orthodox belief is, or who God
is, or how to pray to Him, or how to fulfil His holy will.
There is no sign of Christianity left to us except the
name.
We have all lost our senses, we tremble in our faith,
like a leaf on a tree; we have gone astray in strange and
diverse ways, some incline towards the Roman faith, others
towards the Lutheran; we, baptized idol-worshippers, are
maimed in both legs. We have forsaken the paps of our
mother Church; we are seeking nourishment instead from
all kinds of foreign and heretical sources. We are like
blind puppies which have been thrown away, we err in all
directions; but where we shall finally arrive, no one knows.
Fomka the barber, an iconoclast, has split up the image
of St. Alexis the Metropolitan with his iron axe, because he
did not revere the holy icons, the life-bringing cross, nor
holy relics; the holy icons, said he, and the holy cross are
merely the work of man; and he did not believe that
relics brought pardon for his own transgressions. Neither
did he accept the Church dogma and traditions, nor did he
believe the Eucharist to be the true body of Christ, but
simply bread and wine.
Stephen, the Metropolitan of Riazan, handed Fomka over
to the church anathema. He was burnt at the stake in the
Red Square.
Then the gentlemen of the Senate, having summoned the
Metropolitan to Petersburg to account for his action, gave
satisfaction to the heretics; the iconoclast, Dmitri Tveretinoff,
a physician, whose disciple Fomka had been, they
pronounced innocent, while driving Stephen, the saintly
bishop, with great contumely from the Judgment hall.
He went out weeping and saying:—
“O Lord Christ, our Saviour! Thou hast said: ‘They
will persecute you, even as they persecuted me.’ Now I
am driven out, but not I, it is Thou whom they are persecuting.
Thou, who beholdest all things, wilt see that their
judgment is unjust; judge them Thyself!”
And when the prelate came out of the senate into the
square, all the people were moved with compassion towards
him and wept. The anger of the author of my being
against Stephen has grown more intense.
The Church is more powerful than the Tsardom; but
nowadays the Tsar rules the Church.
The ancient Tsars bowed to the ground before the
patriarch; now the occupant of the Patriarchal throne
signs himself in his letters to the Tsar, thus: “Your
Majesty’s slave and footstool, your humble Stephen, the
little Shepherd of Riazan!” The head of the Church the
Tsar’s footstool!
Demetrius, the Metropolitan of Rostov, was a very
saintly man; when the author of my being made him
drink Hungarian wine, and began questioning him on
clerical affairs, the saintly old man did not answer at all,
but silently and repeatedly blessed the Tsar with the sign of
the holy cross, and thus he succeeded in escaping.
The priests say, “It is impossible to swim against the
stream; the whip cannot break the axe.”
But the martyrs for the sake of the faith did not spare
their lives!
The Tsar keeps his table for the bishops. “He whose
bread I eat, his man I am.”
The ancient Russian prelates stood up for their country,
but the prelates of to-day do not seek to obtain justice
from the Tsar, but aim rather at flattering and corrupting
his pious rank and power.
If the people sin, the Tsar can divert God’s wrath; if the
Tsar sins, the people are helpless. God visits the sin of the
monarch upon the whole country.
Lately at a drinking feast, the “little Shepherd of
Riazan” said to my father: “You Tsars—gods on earth—are
like unto the Heavenly Tsar,” and the Kniaz-Pope,
a drunken fool, reviled the prelate: “Though I,” said he,
“am but a mock patriarch, yet even I would not have
spoken such words to the Tsar! God is greater than the
Tsar,” and the Tsar praised the buffoon for saying this.
When in the course of the same feast, the bishops began
to talk about the widowed state of the Church and the
need of a Patriarch, the author of my being in great wrath
unsheathed his short sword; all were terror stricken,
thinking he was going to kill them; he struck the table
with the flat of the blade, and shouted: “I am the
Patriarch; Tsar and Patriarch in one!”
Theodosius is trying to persuade the author of my
being to assume the title of Emperor, after the example
of the ancient Roman Caesars.
In the year 1709, during the celebrations of the Poltava
victory, the clergy erected on the Red Square in Moscow
an imitation of a Roman temple with an altar, consecrating
it to the virtues of the Russian god Apollo and Mars, that
is in honour of the author of my being, and over the ancient
temple ran the inscription:—“Basis et fundamentum
reipublicae, religio.”
But what religion? Faith in what God, or gods?
There was also represented an “Apotheosis of the
Russian Hercules,” that is, the author of my days slaying
many animals and peoples, and, at the end of these
feats, being borne up to heaven in Jove’s chariot, drawn
by eagles along the Milky Way, with the inscription:—“Viamque
affectat Olympo.”
In the pamphlet, written by the arch-monk Joseph,
the Prefect of the Academy, the Apotheosis is described in
the following words: “It should be known that this is
neither a church, nor a sanctuary built to a saint, but a
political or civil ceremony.”
Theodosius is trying to persuade my father to insert in
the decree, which ordained the holy Synod, or in the
Russian oath of allegiance itself, words declaring that,
“The people should honour their ruler’s name as head and
father of their country equally with the name of Jesus
Christ.”
Men want to usurp God’s glory and the honour due to
Christ, the Eternal and only King of kings. It is in the
Roman Laws that these impious sacrilegious words are
found: “The Roman autocrat is the Lord of the Universe.”
We confess and believe that Christ alone is the King of
kings and the Lord of lords, and there is no man Lord
beside him.
Jesus Christ, the wondrous Rock, struck and destroyed
the Roman Empire and smashed its feet of clay. And we
create and build up what God has shattered. Does not
this mean that we defy God?
Look at Roman History. The Emperor Caligula saith:
Everything is allowed to Caesar, “Omnia licent.” Not
only to Roman Emperors, but nowadays to all knaves and
servile creatures and quadrupeds, is everything permitted!
Nebuchadnezzar the King of Babylon saith, “I am
God,” and he became a beast.
On Basil Island, in the house of the Tsaritsa Prascovie,
there lives an old monk, Timothy Arkhípich, he is the
refuge of the desperate, the hope of the hopeless, a mad
man in the eyes of the world, yet he is intimately acquainted
with the griefs and hearts of men. I went over to see him
a few nights ago and had a talk with him. Arkhípich
says Antichrist is a pretender—a veritable cursed one—and
that he is on his way. I read the Metropolitan of
Riazan’s Signs of the Coming of Antichrist, and a great fear
thereupon possessed me.
In Moscow, Gregory of Talitsa was burnt because he
spoke to the people about the coming of Antichrist. Talitsa
was a man of great intelligence. Basil Levin, a captain of
the Dragoons who was with me on my way from Lvoff to
Kiev in 1711, the priest Lebedka, chaplain to Prince
Ménshikoff the clerk Larion Dokoukin, and many others
think in the same way about Antichrist.
A Raskolnik spilt Christ’s sacrament and trampled it
under foot.
Near Lubetch a flight of locusts appeared; from midday
to midnight it was passing—“God’s Wrath,” the superscription
on their wings.
The days are short and gloomy; old people say the sun
shines no longer as it used to.
I was drunk; we drank a large quantity of vodka. The
Lord knows it is fear which makes us drink, in order to
forget ourselves.
The fear of death has come upon me. The end is at
hand, the axe is at the root, death’s scythe is over our heads.
Lord, help Russia! Thrice-pure Mother of God protect
and intercede for us!
O martyrs of these latter days, Christ is about to rise
again! Christ is, and will dwell within you, and you will
say, Amen! to His Kingdom.
With these words the diary of Tsarevitch Alexis
closed. I was present when he threw it into the
fire.
December 31.
To-day died the last Russian Tsaritsa. Marfa Matveevna,
the widow of Peter’s stepbrother, Fédor Alexeyevitch. At
foreign courts she had been considered dead long ago;
ever since her husband’s death, during thirty-two years,
she had lived half mad, a prisoner in her rooms, and never
showed herself to anybody.
She was buried at dusk with great pomp. The funeral
procession moved between two rows of torches planted in
the ice all the way along from her house, (she lived next to
us near the Church of All the Sorrowing) up to the Peter
and Paul Cathedral, across the Neva on the ice. It was
the same way along which her Highness’s body had been
borne two months or more ago in the frigate of death.
Then the first foreign Princess was buried, now the last
Russian Tsaritsa.
First came the clergy in gorgeous palls, carrying candles
and incense burners, chanting funeral songs. The coffin
was drawn on sleighs. Behind it walked the Privy Councillor
Tolstoi carrying a crown set with priceless gems.
The Tsar had for the first time at this funeral prohibited
the ancient Russian custom of wailing; it was strictly
ordered that none should cry aloud.
All moved along in silence, the night was still, nothing
was heard but the crackling of the burning resin, the
crunching of steps on the snow, and the funeral chanting.
This silent procession aroused a shudder of terror. It
seemed as though we were gliding along the ice after the
dead, ourselves also dead, into the black eternal gloom.
With this old Tsaritsa New Russia seemed to be burying
Old Russia, and Petersburg burying Moscow.
The Tsarevitch, who had loved the deceased as his own
mother, was terribly upset by this death. He sees in it a
bad omen for himself, his own fate. Several times during
the ceremony he whispered to me, “The end has come, the
end of everything!”
January 1.
To-morrow morning I leave Petersburg, together with
the two Barons Loewenwold for Riga, and then travel
through Danzig into Germany. This is my last night in
the Tsarevitch’s house.
This evening I went to bid him good-bye; the way we
parted made me feel how much I love him, and that I will
never forget him.
“Who knows,” said he, “we may meet again. I would
like to pay another visit to Germany and other foreign
countries; I liked those parts, you live in gaiety and light
and freedom.”
“What holds your Highness back?”
He sighed heavily.
“I would like to go to heaven; it is my sins which keep
me back.” And then he added with his genuine child-like
smile, “The Lord keep you, Fräulein Juliana, do not
remember my worst; greet the European countries for me,
and your old friend Leibnitz. May be he will prove to be
in the right, and that we shall, with God’s help, not eat,
but serve one another.”
He embraced and kissed my forehead with brotherly
tenderness.
I could not help crying. Once more I turned round and
had a last look at him, and again my heart sank with a
presentiment, just as on that day when I saw in the dark,
and as it were prophetic mirror, the face of Charlotte and
Alexis, when both had seemed to me to be victims doomed
to some great suffering. She had perished, now his turn
had come. And then I recalled him as he stood the last
day in Roshdestveno, on the dove-cote, high up over the
sullen wood against the blood-red sky, as it were wrapt in
the white doves’ wings. So he will ever remain in my
memory.
I hear that prisoners set free sometimes regret their
prison. I experience a kindred feeling at the present
moment with regard to Russia. I began this diary with
curses. I cannot close it with blessings. I will only say,
what probably many in Europe would say, were they
better acquainted with Russia—“A mysterious country—a
mysterious people.”