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Our Artist In Cuba

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OUR ARTIST IN CUBA — OUR ARTIST IN CUBA. — CONTENTS. — A PRELIMINARY WORD. — THE START.—THE STEAMSHIP COLUMBIA. AT SEA. — IN THE GULF OF MEXICO. — ARRIVAL AT HAVANA. — STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE MERCADERES. — VIEW FROM OUR WINDOW AT THE HOTEL ALMY. — STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE TENIENTE RE. — AT THE CAFE LOUVRE. — THE [WICKED] FLEA OF HAVANA. — THE NATIONAL VEHICLE OF HAVANA. — A COCK-FIGHT IN CUBA. — STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE LAMPARILLA. — THE CUBAN TOOTH-PICK. — THE CAPTAIN GENERAL'S QUINTA, — THE DOMESTIC INSECTS OF HAVANA. — A LITTLE EPISODE IN THE CALLE BARRATILLO. — STREETS OF HAVANA.—CALLE COMPOSTELLA, — AN INTERIOR IN HAVANA. — HEADS OF THE PEOPLE. — PRIMITIVE HABITS OF THE NATIVES. — WASHING IN HAVANA.. — CARNIVAL IN HAVANA. — A MASK BALL AT THE TACON. — LATER IN THE EVENING, — STREETS OF HAVANA—CALLE OBRAPIA. — STREETS OF HAVANA—CALLE O'REILLY. — FIRST HOUR! SECOND HOUR!! THIRD HOUR!!! — BED-ROOMS IN CUBA. — SEA-BATHS IN HAVANA, — HOTELS IN HAVANA. — HIGH ART IN HAVANA. — LOCOMOTION IN THE COUNTRY. — SHOPPING IN HAVANA. — THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF HAVANA. — THE LIZARDS OF CUBA. — SMOKING IN HAVANA. — THE MUSQUITOS OF HAVANA. — PUBLIC SERVANTS IN CUBA. — ONE OF THE SENSATIONS IN CUBA. — THE GREAT CAVE NEAR MATANZAS. — THE OUTSKIRTS OF MATANZAS. — ARCHITECTURE IN MATANZAS. — A CAFFETAL NEAR MATANZAS. — THE PICTURESQUE IN MATANZAS. — A SUGAR PLANTATION, NEAR THE YUMORI. — A BED-CHAMBER IN MATANZAS. — ECONOMY IS WEALTH. — THE SUBURBS OF CALABAZAR — PLANTATIONS NEAR MARIANAS, — ARCHITECTURE IN HAVANA. — LAST NIGHT IN HAVANA.







FIFTY DRAWINGS ON WOOD.

LEAVES FROM
THE SKETCH-BOOK OF A TRAVELER,
DURING THE WINTER OF 1864-5,

BY
GEO. W. CARLETON.

colophon

colophon

NEW YORK:
Carleton, Publisher, 413 Broadway.
London: S. Low, Son & Co.
MDCLXV.



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by
GEO. W. CARLETON,
In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United
States for the Southern District of New York.

Click on any image to see it enlarged.
(note of etext transcriber.)


A PRELIMINARY WORD.
NO.
SICK TRANSIT1
TWO BOOBIES2
A COLORED HERCULES3
THE CUBAN JEHU4
IGLESIA DE SAN FRANCISCO5
A CUBAN MOTIVE6
AN INFLUENZA7
FLEE FOR SHELTER8
THE RIDE9
A COCK-FIGHT10
RATHER COOL11
A SPANISH RETREAT12
TAKE YOUR PICK13
SPIDERS, RATS, AND COCKROACHES      14
BELLIGERENTS15
MATERFAMILIAS ET FILIUS16
A CULINARY DEPARTMENT17
A BUNDLE OF CLOTHES18
A BUTTON-SMASHER19
WHITE PANTALOONS20
A CARNIVAL ACQUAINTANCE21
BEAUTY AT THE BALL22
A DISAPPOINTMENT23
DOLCE FAR NIENTE24
LOCOMOTION25
THE SPANISH TONGUE26
AN UNWELCOME VISITOR27
AN AGREEABLE BATH28
A CELESTIAL MAID29
A STATUE ON A BUST30
A TAIL UNFOLDED31
PUT MONEY IN THY PURSE32
SUGAR AND WATER33
GREEN FIELDS AND PASTURES NEW34
A SEGAR WELL-LIGHTED35
WHERE SHALL REST BE FOUND36
ALL ABOARD37
THE MATANZAS CAVE38
A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL39
A SHADY RETREAT40
A SPANISH GROCER41
COLORED HELP42
VERY MOORISH43
CHACUN A SON GOUT44
NATURE'S SWEET RESTORER45
AGRICULTURAL46
A COT IN THE VALLEY47
A COLORED BEAUTY48
CORNER STONES49
A SUDDEN DEPARTURE50

WITH man the Artillery band in the Plaza des Armas—assisting with domino and false nose at the masquerades in the Tacon Theatre—lounging with ices or delicious chocolate at the Café Dominica—dallying with cigar and fragrant coffee, after the regulation breakfast of codfish, garlic, and onions—snuffing up the perfumed air, and strolling through the golden orange-groves of Cafetals—joining in the battle, murder, and sudden death of Marinao cock-fights—vagabondizing along the shady side of Calle Obispo—and so forth, through all the dulce far nientes of a stranger's drifting life, among the lights and shadows of the Antilles' Queen.

The only merit the pictures possess, perhaps, is their faithfulness to nature. Though chiefly caricatures, they represent such incidents and scenes as every one, with both eyes open, sees, who visits Cuba; and being sketched upon the spot, with all the crispy freshness of a first impression, they possess a sort of photographic value, that, in spite of their grotesqueness, may prove more lasting than the entertainment which their humor offers.

NEW YORK, April, 1865.

First day out.—The wind freshens up a trifle as we get outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never felt better in his life.

First day out.—The wind freshens up a trifle as we get outside Sandy Hook; but our artist says he is'nt sea-sick, for he never felt better in his life.

A "Booby"—as seen from the ship's deck.

A "Booby"—as seen from the ship's deck.

A Booby—as seen on the ship's deck.

A Booby—as seen on the ship's deck.

A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.

A side elevation of the colored gentleman who carried our luggage from the small boat to the Custom House.

The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.

The first volante driver that our artist saw in Havana.

The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San Francisco,—now used as a Custom House.

The old Convent and Bell Tower of the Church of San Francisco,—now used as a Custom House.

A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.—Ye patient Donkey.

A Cuban Cart and its Motive Power.—Ye patient Donkey.

Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.

Manners and Customs of a Cuban with a Cold in his Head.

PART II.—When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."

PART I.—The beast in a torpid condition.

PART II.—When he "smells the blood of an Englishmun."

Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban Volante.

Manner and Custom of Harnessing ye Animiles to ye Cuban Volante.

I.—Chanticleer as he goes in.

I.—Chanticleer as he goes in.

II.—Chanticleer considerably "played out."

II.—Chanticleer considerably "played out."

The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising colored generation of Havana.

The cool and airy style in which they dress the rising colored generation of Havana.

Two ways of carrying it—behind the ear, and in the back-hair.

Two ways of carrying it—behind the ear, and in the back-hair.

View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the Grotto.

View of the Canal and Cocoa Tree; looking East from the Grotto.

Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering her chamber and making their acquaintance.

Agitation of the Better-Half of Our Artist, upon entering her chamber and making their acquaintance.

A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.

A slight difference arises between the housekeeper's cat and the butcher's dog, who has just come out in his summer costume.

The Free Negro.—An every-day scene,-when the weather is fine.

The Free Negro.—An every-day scene,-when the weather is fine.

Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."

Kitchen, chief-cook and bottle-washer in the establishment of Mrs. Franke, out on the "Cerro."

A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.

A portrait of the young lady, whose family (after considerable urging) consents to take in our washing.

Washing in Havana.—$4.00 a dozen in gold.

Washing in Havana.—$4.00 a dozen in gold.

I.—My pantaloons as they went in.

I.—My pantaloons as they went in.    II.—My pantaloons as they came out.

A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.—Types of Costume, with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.

A Masquerade at the Tacon Theatre.—Types of Costume, with a glimpse of the "Cuban Dance" in the background.

Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls desperately in love with this sweet creature—— but

Our artist mixes in the giddy dance, and falls desperately in love with this sweet creature—— but

When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.

When the "sweet creature" unmasks, our Artist suddenly recovers from his fit of admiration. Alas! beauty is but mask deep.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In Repose.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In Repose.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In action.

The Cuban Wheelbarrow—In action.

Our Artist forms the praiseworthy determination of studying the Spanish language, and devotes three hours to the enterprise.

The Scorpion of Havana,—encountered in his native jungle.

The Scorpion of Havana,—encountered in his native jungle.

Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge, inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather thinks he won't go in just now.

Our Artist having prepared himself for a jolly plunge, inadvertently observes an insect peculiar to the water, and rather thinks he won't go in just now.

A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de Ingleterra, outside the walls.

A cheerful Chinese Chambermaid (?) at the Fonda de Ingleterra, outside the walls.

A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl, that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the "Cerro."

A gay (but slightly mutilated) old plaster-of-Paris girl, that I found in one of the avenues of the Bishop's Garden, on the "Cerro."

A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.

A Cuban Planter going into town with his plunder.

 Our Artist just steps around the corner, to look at        
a "sweet thing in fans" that his wife has found.    
 RESULT!
Our Artist indulges in a panale frio (a sort of lime-ade), at the Café Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he won't go home till morning.

Our Artist indulges in a panale frio (a sort of lime-ade), at the Café Dominica, and gets so "set up," that he vows he won't go home till morning.

Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly specimens.

Our Artist, on an entomological expedition in the Bishop's Garden, is disagreeably surprised to find such sprightly specimens.

An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a live coal.

An English acquaintance of Our Artist wants a light for his paper segar; whereupon the waiter, according to custom, brings a live coal.

A midsummer's night dream.—Our Artist is just the least bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.

A midsummer's night dream.—Our Artist is just the least bit disturbed in his rest, and gently remonstrates.

A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near Guines.—The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.

A gay and festive Chinese brakeman, on the railroad near Guines.—The shirt-collar-and-pair-of-spurs style of costume.

The Great Cave near Matanzas.—Picturesque House over the Entrance.

The Great Cave near Matanzas.—Picturesque House over the Entrance.

A section of the interior—showing the comfortable manner in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and comported himself generally.

A section of the interior—showing the comfortable manner in which our artist followed the guide, inspected the stalactites, and comported himself generally.

One of the Fortifications.—Sketched from the end of the Passeo, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain fever.

One of the Fortifications.—Sketched from the end of the Passeo, on a day hot enough to give anything but a donkey the brain fever.

A romantic little tienda mista (grocery store) on a corner, in the Calle Ona.

A romantic little tienda mista (grocery store) on a corner, in the Calle Ona.

Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious manner of toting little niggers.

Our Artist becomes dumb with admiration, at the ingenious manner of toting little niggers.

A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.

A singular little bit, out of the Calle Manzana.

Our Artist essays to drink the milk from a green Cocoa;
 Our Artist essays to drink the    
milk from a green Cocoa;    
 Fatal effect.—An uncomfortable
sensation!
First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."—Our artist is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats, dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.

First night at the "Gran Hotel Leon de Oro."—Our artist is accommodated with quarters on the ground-floor, convenient to the court-yard, and is lulled to sleep by a little domestic concert of cats, dogs, donkeys, parrots and game-cocks.

Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor of two, in San Felipe.

Showing the manner in which one ox accomplishes the labor of two, in San Felipe.

A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim distance.

A Planter's Hut, and three scraggly Palm Trees in the dim distance.

A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the grinding mill.

A Colored Beauty toting Sugar Cane from the field to the grinding mill.

A conglomerate Esquiria, on the corner of Calle Obispo and Monserate.

A conglomerate Esquiria, on the corner of Calle Obispo and Monserate.

Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their trunk.

Alarm of Our Artist and Wife, upon going to their room to pack, and discovering that a Tarantula has taken possession of their trunk.