1820.
January 18.
This day we set out from Cumberland
House for Carlton House; but previously
to detailing the events of the journey, it may be
proper to describe the necessary equipments of a
winter traveller in this region, which I cannot do
better than by extracting the following brief,
but accurate, account of it from Mr. Hood's
journal:—
"A snow-shoe is made of two light bars of
wood, fastened together at their extremities, and
projected into curves by transverse bars. The
side bars have been so shaped by a frame, and
dried before a fire, that the front part of the shoe
turns up, like the prow of a boat, and the part
behind terminates in an acute angle; the spaces
between the bars are filled up with a fine netting
of leathern thongs, except that part behind the
main bar, which is occupied by the feet; the
netting is there close and strong, and the foot is
attached to the main bar by straps passing round
the heel but only fixing the toes, so that the heel
rises after each step, and the tail of the shoe is
dragged on the snow. Between the main bar
and another in front of it, a small space is left,
permitting the toes to descend a little in the act
of raising the heel to make the step forward,
which prevents their extremities from chafing.
The length of a snow-shoe is from four to six
feet and the breadth one foot and a half, or one
foot and three quarters, being adapted to the size
of the wearer. The motion of walking in them
is perfectly natural, for one shoe is level with the
snow, when the edge of the other is passing over
it. It is not easy to use them among bushes,
without frequent overthrows, nor to rise afterwards
without help. Each shoe weighs about
two pounds when unclogged with snow. The
northern Indian snow-shoes differ a little from
those of the southern Indians, having a greater
curvature on the outside of each shoe; one advantage
of which is, that when the foot rises the
over-balanced side descends and throws off the
snow. All the superiority of European art has
been unable to improve the native contrivance of
this useful machine.
"Sledges are made of two or three flat boards,
curving upwards in front, and fastened together
by transverse pieces of wood above. They are
so thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the
inequalities of the surface over which they pass.
The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten feet
long and very narrow, but the lading is secured
to a lacing round the edges. The cariole used
by the traders is merely a covering of leather for
the lower part of the body, affixed to the common
sledge, which is painted and ornamented according
to the taste of the proprietor. Besides snow-shoes,
each individual carries his blanket, hatchet,
steel, flint, and tinder, and generally fire arms."
The general dress of the winter traveller, is a
capot, having a hood to put up under the fur cap
in windy weather, or in the woods, to keep the
snow from his neck; leathern trowsers and Indian
stockings which are closed at the ankles, round
the upper part of his mocassins, or Indian shoes,
to prevent the snow from getting into them.
Over these he wears a blanket, or leathern coat,
which is secured by a belt round his waist, to
which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are suspended.
Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the
seaman, John Hepburn; we were provided with
two carioles and two sledges; their drivers and
dogs being furnished in equal proportions by the
two Companies. Fifteen days' provision so completely
filled the sledges, that it was with difficulty
we found room for a small sextant, one suit
of clothes, and three changes of linen, together
with our bedding. Notwithstanding we thus
restricted ourselves, and even loaded the carioles
with part of the luggage, instead of embarking in
them ourselves, we did not set out without considerable
grumbling from the voyagers of both
Companies, respecting the overlading of their
dogs. However, we left the matter to be settled
by our friends at the fort, who were more conversant
with winter travelling than ourselves.
Indeed the loads appeared to us so great that we
should have been inclined to listen to the complaints
of the drivers. The weight usually placed
upon a sledge, drawn by three dogs, cannot, at
the commencement of a journey, be estimated at
less than three hundred pounds, which, however,
suffers a daily diminution from the consumption
of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about
thirty pounds. When the snow is hard frozen,
or the track well trodden, the rate of travelling is
about two miles and a half an hour, including
rests, or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow
be loose the speed is necessarily much less and
the fatigue greater.
At eight in the morning of the 18th, we quitted
the fort, and took leave of our hospitable friend,
Governor Williams, whose kindness and attention
I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr.
Richardson, Mr. Hood, and Mr. Connolly, accompanied
us along the Saskatchawan until the snow
became too deep for their walking without snow-shoes.
We then parted from our associates, with
sincere regret at the prospect of a long separation.
Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie, of
the Hudson's Bay Company, who was going to
Isle à la Crosse, with four sledges under his
charge, we formed quite a procession, keeping in
an Indian file, on the track of the man who preceded
the foremost dogs; but, as the snow was
deep, we proceeded slowly on the surface of the
river, which is about three hundred and fifty
yards wide, for the distance of six miles, which
we went this day. Its alluvial banks and islands
are clothed with willows. At the place of our
encampment we could
scarcely find
sufficient pine
branches to floor "the hut," as the Orkney men
term the place where travellers rest. Its preparation,
however, consists only in clearing away
the snow to the ground, and covering that space
with pine branches, over which the party spread
their blankets and coats, and sleep in warmth
and comfort, by keeping a good fire at their feet,
without any other canopy than the heaven, even
though the thermometer should be far below zero.
The arrival at the place of encampment gives
immediate occupation to every one of the party;
and it is not until the sleeping-place has been
arranged, and a sufficiency of wood collected as
fuel for the night, that the fire is allowed to be
kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive during
this busy scene, being kept harnessed to their
burdens until the men have leisure to unstow the
sledges, and hang upon the trees every species
of provision out of their reach. We had ample
experience, before morning, of the necessity of
this precaution, as they contrived to steal a considerable
part of our stores, almost from underneath
Hepburn's head, notwithstanding their having
been well fed at supper.
This evening we found the mercury of our thermometer
had sunk into the bulb, and was frozen.
It rose again into the tube on being held to the
fire, but quickly re-descended into the bulb on
being removed into the air; we could not, therefore,
ascertain by it the temperature of the atmosphere,
either then or during our journey. The
weather was perfectly clear.
January 19.—We arose this morning after the
enjoyment of a sound and comfortable repose,
and recommenced our journey at sunrise, but
made slow progress through the deep snow. The
task of beating the track for the dogs was so
very fatiguing, that each of the men took the lead
in turn, for an hour and a half. The scenery of
the banks of the river improved as we advanced
to-day; some firs and poplars were intermixed
with the willows. We passed through two creeks,
formed by islands, and encamped on a pleasant
spot on the north shore, having only made six
miles and three quarters actual distance.
The next day we pursued our course along the
river; the dogs had the greatest difficulty in
dragging their heavy burdens through the snow.
We halted to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon
River, and obtained the latitude 53° 51' 41"
N. This is a small stream, which issues from a
neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Musquito
Point, having walked about nine miles.
The termination of the day's journey was a great
relief to me, who had been suffering during the
greater part of it, in consequence of my feet having
been galled by the snow-shoes; this, however,
is an evil which few escape on their initiation
to winter travelling. It excites no pity from
the more experienced companions of the journey,
who travel on as fast as they can, regardless of
your pain.
Mr. Isbester, and an Orkney man, joined us
from Cumberland House, and brought some pemmican
that we had left behind; a supply which
was very seasonable after our recent loss. The
general occupation of Mr. Isbester during the
winter, is to follow or find out the Indians, and
collect their furs, and his present journey will appear
adventurous to persons accustomed to the
certainty of travelling on a well-known road. He
was going in search of a band of Indians, of whom
no information had been received since last October,
and his only guide for finding them was
their promise to hunt in a certain quarter; but he
looked at the jaunt with indifference, and calculated
on meeting them in six or seven days, for which
time only he had provision. Few persons in this
country suffer more from want of food than those
occasionally do who are employed on this service.
They are furnished with a sufficiency of provision
to serve until they reach the part where the Indians
are expected to be; but it frequently occurs
that, on their arrival at the spot, they have
gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow
has hidden their track, in which case, the voyagers
have to wander about in search of them; and it
often happens, when they succeed in finding the
Indians, that they are unprovided with meat. Mr.
Isbester had been placed in this distressing situation
only a few weeks ago, and passed four days
without either himself or his dogs tasting food.
At length, when he had determined on killing one
of the dogs to satisfy his hunger, he happily met
with a beaten track, which led him to some Indian
lodges, where he obtained food.
The morning of the 21st was cold, but pleasant
for travelling. We left Mr. Isbester and his companion,
and crossed the peninsula of Musquito
Point, to avoid a detour of several miles which
the river makes. Though we put up at an early
hour, we gained eleven miles this day. Our encampment
was at the lower extremity of Tobin's
Falls. The snow being less deep on the rough
ice which enclosed this rapid, we proceeded, on
the 22d, at a quicker pace than usual, but at
the expense of great suffering to Mr. Back, myself,
and Hepburn, whose feet were much galled.
After passing Tobin's Falls, the river expands to
the breadth of five hundred yards, and its banks
are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch, and
willows. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves
were observed near the encampment.
On the 23d the sky was generally overcast, and
there were several snow showers. We saw two
wolves and some foxes cross the river in the
course of the day, and passed many tracks of the
moose and red-deer. Soon after we had encamped
the snow fell heavily, which was an advantage
to us after we had retired to rest, by its
affording an additional covering to our blankets.
The next morning, at breakfast time, two men arrived
from Carlton on their way to Cumberland.
Having the benefit of their track, we were enabled,
to our great joy, to march at a quick pace
without snow-shoes. My only regret was, that
the party proceeded too fast to allow of Mr. Back's
halting occasionally, to note the bearings of the
points, and delineate the course of the river[13],
without being left behind. As the provisions
were getting short, I could not, therefore, with
propriety, check the progress of the party; and,
indeed, it appeared to me less necessary, as I
understood the river had been carefully surveyed.
In the afternoon, we had to resume the incumbrance
of the snow-shoes, and to pass over a
rugged part where the ice had been piled over a
collection of stones. The tracks of animals were
very abundant on the river, particularly near the
remains of an old establishment, called the Lower
Nippéween.
So much snow had fallen on the night of the
24th, that the track we intended to follow was
completely covered, and our march to-day was
very fatiguing. We passed the remains of two
red-deer, lying at the bases of perpendicular cliffs,
from the summits of which they had, probably,
been forced by the wolves. These voracious
animals who are inferior in speed to the moose
or red-deer are said frequently to have recourse
to this expedient in places where extensive plains
are bounded by precipitous cliffs. Whilst the
deer are quietly grazing, the wolves assemble in
great numbers, and, forming a crescent, creep
slowly towards the herd so as not to alarm them
much at first, but when they perceive that they
have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting creatures,
and cut off their retreat across the plain,
they move more quickly and with hideous yells
terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the
only open way, which is that towards the precipice;
appearing to know that when the herd is
once at full speed, it is easily driven over the
cliff, the rearmost urging on those that are before.
The wolves then descend at their leisure, and
feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these
animals passed close to the person who was
beating the track, but did not offer any violence.
We encamped at sunset, after walking thirteen
miles.
On the 26th, we were rejoiced at passing the
half-way point, between Cumberland and Carlton.
The scenery of the river is less pleasing
beyond this point, as there is a scarcity of
wood. One of our men was despatched after a
red-deer that appeared on the bank. He contrived
to approach near enough to fire twice,
though without success, before the animal moved
away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen
miles we put up at the upper Nippéween, a deserted
establishment; and performed the comfortable
operations of shaving and washing for
the first time since our departure from Cumberland,
the weather having been hitherto too
severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleepless
night, and agreed next morning to encamp
in future, in the open air, as preferable to the
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without
doors or windows.
The morning was extremely cold, but fortunately
the wind was light, which prevented our
feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught
us that the sensation of cold depends less upon
the state of temperature, than the force of the
wind. An attempt was made to obtain the latitude,
which failed, in consequence of the screw,
that adjusts the telescope of the sextant, being
immoveably fixed, from the moisture upon it
having frozen. The instrument could not be
replaced in its case before the ice was thawed
by the fire in the evening.
In the course of the day we passed the confluence
of the south branch of the Saskatchawan,
which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the
sources of the northern branch of the Missouri.
At Coles Falls, which commence a short distance
from the branch, we found the surface of the ice
very uneven, and many spots of open water.
We passed the ruins of an establishment,
which the traders had been compelled to abandon,
in consequence of the intractable conduct
and pilfering habits of the Assinéboine or Stone
Indians; and we learned that all the residents at a
post on the south branch, had been cut off by the
same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve
miles to-day. The wolves serenaded us through
the night with a chorus of their agreeable howling,
but none of them ventured near the encampment.
But Mr. Back's repose was disturbed by
a more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught fire,
and the shoes on his feet, being contracted by the
heat, gave him such pain, that he jumped up in
the cold, and ran into the snow as the only means
of obtaining relief.
On the 28th we had a strong and piercing
wind from N.W. in our faces, and much snow-drift;
we were compelled to walk as quick as we
could, and to keep constantly rubbing the exposed
parts of the skin, to prevent their being
frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of
every precaution. We descried three red-deer
on the banks of the river, and were about to send
the best marksmen after them, when they espied
the party, and ran away. A supply of meat
would have been very seasonable, as the men's
provision had become scanty, and the dogs were
without food, except a little burnt leather. Owing
to the scarcity of wood, we had to walk until a
late hour, before a good spot for an encampment
could be found, and had then attained only eleven
miles. The night was miserably cold; our tea
froze in the tin pots before we could drink it, and
even a mixture of spirits and water became
quite thick by congelation; yet, after we lay
down to rest, we felt no inconvenience, and
heeded not the wolves, though they were howling
within view.
The 29th was also very cold, until the sun
burst forth, when the travelling became pleasant.
The banks of the river are very scantily supplied
with wood through the part we passed to-day.
A long track on the south shore, called Holms
Plains, is destitute of any thing like a tree, and
the opposite bank has only stunted willows; but,
after walking sixteen miles, we came to a spot
better wooded, and encamped opposite to a remarkable
place, called by the voyagers "The
Neck of Land."
A short distance below our encampment, on
the peninsula formed by the confluence of the
Net-setting river with the Saskatchawan, there
stands a representation of Kepoochikawn, which
was formerly held in high veneration by the Indians,
and is still looked upon with some respect.
It is merely a large willow bush, having its tops
bound into a bunch. Many offerings of value
such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and kettles,
used to be made to it, but of late its votaries have
been less liberal. It was mentioned to us as a
signal instance of its power, that a sacrilegious
moose-deer having ventured to crop a few of its
tender twigs was found dead at the distance of a
few yards. The bush having now grown old
and stunted is exempted from similar violations.
On the thirtieth we directed our course round
The Neck of Land, which is well clothed with
pines and firs; though the opposite or western
bank is nearly destitute of wood. This contrast
between the two banks continued until we
reached the commencement of what our companions
called the Barren Grounds, when both the
banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend behind
the southern bank, which afford excellent pasturage
for the buffalo, and other grazing animals.
In the evening we saw a herd of the former, but
could not get near to them. After walking fifteen
miles we encamped. The men's provision
having been entirely expended last night, we
shared our small stock with them. The poor
dogs had been toiling some days on the most
scanty fare; their rapacity, in consequence, was
unbounded; they forced open a deal box, containing
tea, &c., to get at a small piece of meat
which had been incautiously placed in it.
As soon as daylight permitted, the party commenced
their march in expectation of reaching
Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not
arrive before noon, although the track was good.
We were received by Mr. Prudens, the gentleman
in charge of the post, with that friendly attention
which Governor Williams's circular was
calculated to ensure at every station; and were
soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish
of buffalo steaks, which would have been excellent
under any circumstances, but were particularly
relished by us, after our travelling fare
of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten without
either bread or vegetables. After this
repast, we had the comfort of changing our travelling
dresses, which had been worn for fourteen
days; a gratification which can only be
truly estimated by those who have been placed
under similar circumstances. I was still in too
great pain from swellings in the ankles to proceed
to La Montée, the North-West Company's establishment,
distant about three miles; but Mr.
Hallet, the gentleman in charge, came the following
morning, and I presented to him the circular
from Mr. S. Mac Gillivray. He had already been
furnished, however, with a copy of it from Mr. Connolly,
and was quite prepared to assist us in our
advance to the Athabasca.
Mr. Back and I having been very desirous to
see some of the Stone Indians, who reside on the
plains in this vicinity, learned with regret that a
large band of them had left the house on the preceding
day; but our curiosity was amply gratified
by the appearance of some individuals, on the following
and every subsequent day during our stay.
The looks of these people would have prepossessed
me in their favour, but for the assurances
I had received from the gentlemen of the posts,
of their gross and habitual treachery. Their
countenances are affable and pleasing, their eyes
large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth white
and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones
rather high. Their figure is usually good, above
the middle size, with slender, but well proportioned,
limbs. Their colour is a light copper,
and they have a profusion of very black hair,
which hangs over the ears, and shades the face.
Their dress, which I think extremely neat and
convenient, consists of a vest and trowsers of
leather fitted to the body; over these a buffalo
robe is thrown gracefully. These dresses are in
general cleaned with white-mud, a sort of marl,
though some use red earth, a kind of bog-iron-ore;
but this colour neither looks so light, nor forms
such an agreeable contrast as the white with the
black hair of the robe. Their quiver hangs behind
them, and in the hand is carried the bow,
with an arrow always ready for attack or defence,
and sometimes they have a gun; they also carry
a bag containing materials for making a fire,
some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever
valuables they possess. This bag is neatly
ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus equipped,
the Stone Indian bears himself with an air
of perfect independence.
The only articles of European commerce they
require in exchange for the meat they furnish to
the trading post, are tobacco, knives, ammunition,
and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but
more frequently buttons, which they string in
their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will
probably have two or three dozen of them hanging
at equal distances on locks of hair, from each side
of the forehead. At the end of these locks, small
coral bells are sometimes attached, which tingle
at every motion of the head, a noise which seems
greatly to delight the wearer; sometimes strings
of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara;
and a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the
head.
The Stone Indians steal whatever they can,
particularly horses; these animals they maintain
are common property, sent by the Almighty for
the general use of man, and therefore may be
taken wherever met with; still they admit the
right of the owners to watch them, and to prevent
theft if possible. This avowed disposition on
their part calls forth the strictest vigilance at the
different posts; notwithstanding which the most
daring attacks are often made with success, sometimes
on parties of three or four, but oftener on
individuals. About two years ago a band of
them had the audacity to attempt to take away
some horses which were grazing before the gate
of the N.W. Company's fort; and, after braving
the fire from the few people then at the establishment
through the whole day, and returning their
shots occasionally, they actually succeeded in
their enterprise. One man was killed on each
side. They usually strip defenceless persons
whom they meet of all their garments, but
particularly of those which have buttons, and
leave them to travel home in that state, however
severe the weather. If resistance be expected,
they not unfrequently murder before they attempt
to rob. The traders, when they travel, invariably
keep some men on guard to prevent surprise,
whilst the others sleep; and often practise the
stratagem of lighting a fire at sunset, which they
leave burning, and move on after dark to a more
distant encampment—yet these precautions do
not always baffle the depredators. Such is the
description of men whom the traders of this river
have constantly to guard against. It must require
a long residence among them, and much experience
of their manners, to overcome the apprehensions
their hostility and threats are calculated
to excite. Through fear of having their provision
and supplies entirely cut off, the traders
are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences,
even murder, though the delinquents present
themselves with unblushing effrontery almost immediately
after the fact, and perhaps boast of
it. They do not, on detection, consider themselves
under any obligation to deliver up what
they have stolen without receiving an equivalent.
The Stone Indians keep in amity with their
neighbours the Crees from motives of interest;
and the two tribes unite in determined hostility
against the nations dwelling to the westward,
which are generally called Slave Indians—a term
of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes
against whom they have waged successful wars.
The Slave Indians are said greatly to resemble
the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and
daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty
towards the traders.
These parties go to war almost every summer,
and sometimes muster three or four hundred
horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in approaching
the foe, exercise all the caution of the
most skilful generals; and whenever either party
considers that it has gained the best ground, or
finds it can surprise the other, the attack is made.
They advance at once to close quarters, and the
slaughter is consequently great, though the battle
may be short. The prisoners of either sex are
seldom spared, but slain on the spot with wanton
cruelty. The dead are scalped, and he is considered
the bravest person who bears the greatest
number of scalps from the field. These are afterwards
attached to his war dress, and worn as
proofs of his prowess. The victorious party,
during a certain time, blacken their faces and
every part of their dress in token of joy, and in
that state they often come to the establishment,
if near, to testify their delight by dancing and
singing, bearing all the horrid insignia of war, to
display their individual feats. When in mourning,
they completely cover their dress and hair
with white mud.
The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House
have the same cast of countenance as those about
Cumberland, but are much superior to them in
appearance, living in a more abundant country.
These men are more docile, tractable, and industrious,
than the Stone Indians, and bring greater
supplies of provision and furs to the posts.
Their general mode of dress resembles that of
the Stone Indians; but sometimes they wear
cloth leggins, blankets, and other useful articles,
when they can afford to purchase them. They
also decorate their hair with buttons.
The Crees procure guns from the traders, and
use them in preference to the bow and arrow;
and from them the Stone Indians often get supplied,
either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like
the rest of their nation, these Crees are remarkably
fond of spirits, and would make any sacrifice
to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand
for this pernicious article had greatly increased
within the few last years. The following notice
of these Indians is extracted from Dr. Richardson's
journal:
"The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees Asseeneepoytuck,
or Stone Indians, are a tribe of
Sioux, who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one
of the great divisions under which the American
philologists have classed the known dialects of
the Aborigines of North America. The Stone
Indians, or, as they name themselves, Eascab,
originally entered this part of the country under
the protection of the Crees, and in concert with
them attacked and drove to the westward the
former inhabitants of the banks of the Saskatchawan.
They are still the allies of the Crees, but
have now become more numerous than their
former protectors. They exhibit all the bad qualities
ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, the
stock whence they are sprung. Of their actual
number I could obtain no precise information, but
it is very great. The Crees who inhabit the plains,
being fur hunters, are better known to the traders.
"They are divided into two distinct bands,
the Ammisk-watcheéthinyoowuc or Beaver Hill
Crees, who have about forty tents, and the Sackaweé-thinyoowuc,
or Thick Wood Crees, who have
thirty-five. The tents average nearly ten inmates
each, which gives a population of seven hundred
and fifty to the whole.
"The nations who were driven to the westward
by the Eascab and Crees are termed, in
general, by the latter, Yatcheé-thinyoowuc, which
has been translated Slave Indians, but more
properly signifies Strangers.
"They now inhabit the country around Fort
Augustus, and towards the foot of the Rocky
Mountains, and have increased in strength until
they have become an object of terror to the Eascab
themselves. They rear a great number of
horses, make use of fire-arms, and are fond of
European articles; in order to purchase which
they hunt the beaver and other furred animals,
but they depend principally on the buffalo for
subsistence.
"They are divided into five nations:—First,
the Pawäustic-eythin-yoowuc, or Fall Indians, so
named from their former residence on the falls of
the Saskatchawan. They are the Minetarres,
with whom Captain Lewis's party had a conflict
on their return from the Missouri. They have
about four hundred and fifty or five hundred
tents; their language is very guttural and difficult.
"Second, the Peganoo-eythinyoowuc Pegans,
or Muddy River Indians, named in their own
language Peganœ`-koon, have four hundred tents.
"Third, the Meethco-thinyoowuc, or Blood
Indians, named by themselves Kainœ`-koon, have
three hundred tents.
"Fourth, the Cuskœteh-waw-thésseetuck, or
Blackfoot Indians, in their own language Saxœkœ-koon,
have three hundred and fifty tents.
"The last three nations, or tribes, the Pegans,
Blood Indians, and Black-feet speak the same
language. It is pronounced in a slow and distinct
tone, has much softness, and is easily acquired by
their neighbours. I am assured by the best interpreters
in the country, that it bears no affinity
to the Cree, Sioux, or Chipewyan languages.
"Lastly, the Sassees, or Circees, have one
hundred and fifty tents; they speak the same
language with their neighbours, the Snare Indians,
who are a tribe of the extensive family of
the Chipewyans[14]."
On the 6th of February, we accompanied Mr.
Prudens on a visit to a Cree encampment and
a buffalo pound, about six miles from the house;
we found seven tents pitched within a small cluster
of pines, which adjoined the pound. The
largest, which we entered, belonged to the Chief,
who was absent, but came in on learning our
arrival. The old man (about sixty) welcomed
us with a hearty shake of the hand, and
the customary salutation of "What cheer!" an
expression which they have gained from the
traders. As we had been expected, they had
caused the tent to be neatly arranged, fresh grass
was spread on the ground, buffalo robes were
placed on the side opposite the door for us to sit
on, and a kettle was on the fire to boil meat
for us.
After a few minutes' conversation, an invitation
was given to the Chief and his hunters to smoke
the calumet with us, as a token of our friendship:
this was loudly announced through the camp,
and ten men from the other tents immediately
joined our party. On their entrance the women
and children withdrew, their presence on such
occasions being contrary to etiquette. The calumet
having been prepared and lighted by Mr.
Prudens's clerk, was presented to the Chief,
who performed the following ceremony before
he commenced smoking:—He first pointed the
stem to the south, then to the west, north,
and east, and afterwards to the heavens, the
earth, and the fire, as an offering to the presiding
spirits:—he took three whiffs only, and then
passed the pipe to his next companion, who took
the same number of whiffs, and so did each person
as it went round. After the calumet had
been replenished, the person who then commenced
repeated only the latter part of the ceremony,
pointing the stem to the heaven, the earth,
and the fire. Some spirits, mixed with water,
were presented to the old man, who, before he
drank, demanded a feather, which he dipped into
the cup several times, and sprinkled the moisture
on the ground, pronouncing each time a prayer.
His first address to the Keetchee Manitou, or
Great Spirit, was, that buffalo might be abundant
every where, and that plenty might come into
their pound. He next prayed, that the other
animals might be numerous, and particularly
those which were valuable for their furs, and then
implored that the party present might escape the
sickness which was at that time prevalent, and be
blessed with constant health. Some other supplications
followed, which we could not get interpreted
without interrupting the whole proceeding;
but at every close, the whole Indian party assented
by exclaiming Aha; and when he had
finished, the old man drank a little and passed
the cup round. After these ceremonies each
person smoked at his leisure, and they engaged
in a general conversation, which I regretted
not understanding, as it seemed to be very humorous,
exciting frequent bursts of laughter.
The younger men, in particular, appeared to
ridicule the abstinence of one of the party, who
neither drank nor smoked. He bore their jeering
with perfect composure, and assured them, as
I was told, they would be better if they would
follow his example. I was happy to learn from
Mr. Prudens, that this man was not only one of
the best hunters, but the most cheerful and contented
of the tribe.
Four Stone Indians arrived at this time and
were invited into the tent, but one only accepted
the invitation and partook of the fare. When
Mr. Prudens heard the others refuse, he gave immediate
directions that our horses should be narrowly
watched, as he suspected these fellows
wished to carry them off. Having learned that
these Crees considered Mr. Back and myself to
be war chiefs, possessing great power, and that
they expected we should make some address to
them, I desired them to be kind to the traders,
to be industrious in procuring them provision and
furs, and to refrain from stealing their stores and
horses; and I assured them, that if I heard of
their continuing to behave kindly, I would mention
their good conduct in the strongest terms to
their Great Father across the sea, (by which appellation
they designate the King,) whose favourable
consideration they had been taught by the
traders to value most highly.
They all promised to follow my advice, and
assured me it was not they, but the Stone Indians,
who robbed and annoyed the traders. The
Stone Indian who was present, heard this accusation
against his tribe quite unmoved, but he
probably did not understand the whole of the
communication. We left them to finish their
rum, and went to look round the lodges, and examine
the pound.
The greatest proportion of labour, in savage
life, falls to the women; we now saw them employed
in dressing skins, and conveying wood,
water, and provision. As they have often to
fetch the meat from some distance, they are assisted
in this duty by their dogs, which are not
harnessed in sledges, but carry their burthens in
a manner peculiarly adapted to this level country.
Two long poles are fastened by a collar to
the dog's neck; their ends trail on the ground,
and are kept at a proper distance by a hoop,
which is lashed between them, immediately behind
the dog's tail; the hoop is covered with
network, upon which the load is placed.
The boys were amusing themselves by shooting
arrows at a mark, and thus training to become
hunters. The Stone Indians are so expert with
the bow and arrow, that they can strike a very
small object at a considerable distance, and will
shoot with sufficient force to pierce through the
body of a buffalo when near.
The buffalo pound was a fenced circular space
of about a hundred yards in diameter; the entrance
was banked up with snow, to a sufficient
height to prevent the retreat of the animals that
once have entered. For about a mile on each
side of the road leading to the pound, stakes
were driven into the ground at nearly equal distances
of about twenty yards; these were intended
to represent men, and to deter the animals
from attempting to break out on either side.
Within fifty or sixty yards from the pound,
branches of trees were placed between these
stakes to screen the Indians, who lie down behind
them to await the approach of the buffalo.
The principal dexterity in this species of chase
is shewn by the horsemen, who have to manœuvre
round the herd in the plains so as to urge them
to enter the roadway, which is about a quarter of
a mile broad. When this has been accomplished,
they raise loud shouts, and, pressing close upon
the animals, so terrify them that they rush heedlessly
forward towards the snare. When they
have advanced as far as the men who are lying
in ambush, they also rise, and increase the consternation
by violent shouting and firing guns.
The affrighted beasts having no alternative, run
directly to the pound, where they are quickly
despatched, either with an arrow or gun.
There was a tree in the centre of the pound, on
which the Indians had hung strips of buffalo
flesh and pieces of cloth as tributary or grateful
offerings to the Great Master of Life; and we
were told that they occasionally place a man in
the tree to sing to the presiding spirit as the buffaloes
are advancing, who must keep his station
until the whole that have entered are killed. This
species of hunting is very similar to that of taking
elephants on the Island of Ceylon, but upon a
smaller scale.
The Crees complained to us of the audacity of
a party of Stone Indians, who, two nights before,
had stripped their revered tree of many of its
offerings, and had injured their pound by setting
their stakes out of the proper places.
Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised
by the Indians with success; of these the hunting
them on horseback requires most dexterity.
An expert hunter, when well mounted, dashes at
the herd, and chooses an individual which he endeavours
to separate from the rest. If he succeeds,
he contrives to keep him apart by the proper
management of his horse, though going at
full speed. Whenever he can get sufficiently near
for a ball to penetrate the beast's hide, he fires,
and seldom fails of bringing the animal down;
though of course he cannot rest the piece against
the shoulder, nor take a deliberate aim. On this
service the hunter is often exposed to considerable
danger, from the fall of his horse in the numerous
holes which the badgers make in these
plains, and also from the rage of the buffalo,
which, when closely pressed, often turns suddenly,
and, rushing furiously on the horse, frequently
succeeds in wounding it, or dismounting
the rider. Whenever the animal shews this disposition,
which the experienced hunter will readily
perceive, he immediately pulls up his horse,
and goes off in another direction.
When the buffaloes are on their guard, horses
cannot be used in approaching them; but the
hunter dismounts at some distance, and crawls in
the snow towards the herd, pushing his gun before
him. If the buffaloes happen to look towards
him, he stops, and keeps quite motionless, until
their eyes are turned in another direction; by
this cautious proceeding a skilful person will get
so near as to be able to kill two or three out of
the herd. It will easily be imagined this service
cannot be very agreeable when the thermometer
stands 30° or 40° below zero, as sometimes happens
in this country.
As we were returning from the tents, the dogs
that were harnessed to three sledges, in one of
which Mr. Back was seated, set off in pursuit of
a buffalo-calf. Mr. Back was speedily thrown
from his vehicle, and had to join me in my horse-cariole.
Mr. Heriot, having gone to recover the
dogs, found them lying exhausted beside the
calf, which they had baited until it was as exhausted
as themselves. Mr. Heriot, to shew
us the mode of hunting on horseback, or, as the
traders term it, running of the buffalo, went in
chase of a cow, and killed it after firing three
shots.
The buffalo is a huge and shapeless animal,
quite devoid of grace or beauty; particularly
awkward in running, but by no means slow;
when put to his speed, he plunges through the
deep snow very expeditiously; the hair is dark
brown, very shaggy, curling about the head, neck,
and hump, and almost covering the eye, particularly
in the bull, which is larger and more unsightly
than the cow. The most esteemed part
of the animal is the hump, called by the Canadians
bos, by the Hudson's Bay people the wig; it is
merely a strong muscle, on which nature at certain
seasons forms a considerable quantity of fat.
It is attached to the long spinous processes of
the first dorsal vertebræ, and seems to be destined
to support the enormous head of the animal.
The meat which covers the spinal processes themselves,
after the wig is removed, is next in esteem
for its flavour and juiciness, and is more
exclusively termed the hump by the hunters.
The party was prevented from visiting a Stone
Indian encampment by a heavy fall of snow, which
made it impracticable to go and return the same
day. We were dissuaded from sleeping at their
tents by the interpreter at the N.W. post, who
told us they considered the hooping-cough
and measles, under which they were now suffering,
to have been introduced by some white
people recently arrived in the country, and that
he feared those who had lost relatives, imagining
we were the persons, might vent their revenge
on us. We regretted to learn that these diseases
had been so very destructive among the tribes
along the Saskatchawan, as to have carried off
about three hundred persons, Crees and Asseenaboines,
within the trading circle of these establishments.
The interpreter also informed us of
another bad trait peculiar to the Stone Indians.
Though they receive a visitor kindly at their
tents, and treat him very hospitably during his
stay, yet it is very probable they will despatch
some young men to way-lay and rob him in going
towards the post: indeed, all the traders assured
us it was more necessary to be vigilantly on our
guard on the occasion of a visit to them, than at
any other time.
Carlton House, (which our observations place
in latitude 52° 50' 47" N., longitude, 106° 12' 42"
W., variation 20° 44' 47" E.) is pleasantly situated
about a quarter of a mile from the river's side on
the flat ground under the shelter of the high banks
that bound the plains. The land is fertile, and
produces, with little trouble, ample returns of
wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The ground is
prepared for the reception of these vegetables,
about the middle of April, and when Dr. Richardson
visited this place on May 10th, the blade of
wheat looked strong and healthy. There were only
five acres in cultivation at the period of my visit.
The prospect from the fort must be pretty in summer,
owing to the luxuriant verdure of this fertile
soil; but in the uniform and cheerless garb of
winter, it has little to gratify the eye.
Beyond the steep bank behind the house, commences
the vast plain, whose boundaries are but
imperfectly known; it extends along the south
branch of the Saskatchawan, and towards the
sources of the Missouri, and Asseenaboine Rivers,
being scarcely interrupted through the whole of this
great space by hills, or even rising grounds. The
excellent pasturage furnishes food in abundance,
to a variety of grazing animals, of which the buffalo,
red-deer, and a species of antelope, are the
most important. Their presence naturally attracts
great hordes of wolves, which are of two
kinds, the large, and the small. Many bears
prowl about the banks of this river in summer;
of these the grizzle bear is the most ferocious,
and is held in dread both by Indians and Europeans.
The traveller, in crossing these plains,
not only suffers from the want of food and water,
but is also exposed to hazard from his horse stumbling
in the numerous badger-holes. In many
large districts, the only fuel is the dried dung of
the buffalo; and when a thirsty traveller reaches
a spring, he has not unfrequently the mortification
to find the water salt.
Carlton House, and La Montée, are provision-posts,
only an inconsiderable quantity of furs being
obtained at either of them. The provisions are
procured in the winter season from the Indians,
in the form of dried meat and fat, and when converted
by mixture into pemmican, furnish the
principal support of the voyagers, in their passages
to and from the depôts in summer. A
considerable quantity of it is also kept for winter
use, at most of the fur-posts, as the least bulky
article that can be taken on a winter journey.
The mode of making pemmican is very simple,
the meat is dried by the Indians in the sun, or
over a fire, and pounded by beating it with
stones when spread on a skin. In this state it
is brought to the forts, where the admixture of
hair is partially sifted out, and a third part of
melted fat incorporated with it, partly by turning
the two over with a wooden shovel, partly by
kneading them together with the hands. The
pemmican is then firmly pressed into leathern
bags, each capable of containing eighty-five
pounds, and being placed in an airy place to
cool, is fit for use. It keeps in this state, if
not allowed to get wet, very well for one year,
and with great care it may be preserved good
for two. Between three and four hundred bags
were made here by each of the Companies this
year.
There were eight men, besides Mr. Prudens
and his clerk, belonging to Carlton House. At
La Montée there were seventy Canadians and
half-breeds, and sixty women and children, who
consumed upwards of seven hundred pounds of
buffalo meat daily, the allowance per diem for
each man being eight pounds: a portion not so extravagant
as may at first appear, when allowance
is made for bone, and the entire want of farinaceous
food or vegetables.
There are other provision posts, Fort Augustus
and Edmonton farther up the river, from whence
some furs are also procured. The Stone Indians
have threatened to cut off the supplies in going up
to these establishments, to prevent their enemies
from obtaining ammunition, and other European
articles; but as these menaces have been frequently
made without being put in execution, the
traders now hear them without any great alarm,
though they take every precaution to prevent being
surprised. Mr. Back and I were present when
an old Cree communicated to Mr. Prudens, that
the Indians spoke of killing all the white people
in that vicinity this year, which information he received
with perfect composure, and was amused,
as well as ourselves, with the man's judicious remark
which immediately followed, "A pretty
state we shall then be in without the goods you
bring us."
The following remarks on a well-known disease
are extracted from Dr. Richardson's Journal:—
"Bronchocele, or Goitre, is a common disorder
at Edmonton. I examined several of the individuals
afflicted with it, and endeavoured to obtain
every information on the subject from the
most authentic sources. The following facts may
be depended upon. The disorder attacks those
only who drink the water of the river. It is indeed
in its worst state confined almost entirely
to the half-breed women and children, who reside
constantly at the fort, and make use of river
water, drawn in the winter through a hole cut in
the ice. The men, being often from home
on journeys through the plain, when their drink is
melted snow, are less affected; and, if any of
them exhibit during the winter, some incipient
symptoms of the complaint, the annual summer
voyage to the sea-coast generally effects a cure.
The natives who confine themselves to snow water
in the winter, and drink of the small rivulets
which flow through the plains in the summer, are
exempt from the attacks of this disease.
"These facts are curious, inasmuch as they militate
against the generally-received opinion that
the disease is caused by drinking snow-water;
an opinion which seems to have originated
from bronchocele being endemial to sub-alpine
districts.
"The Saskatchawan, at Edmonton, is clear in
the winter, and also in the summer, except during
the May and July floods. The distance from
the Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of
primitive formation,) is upwards of one hundred
and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are
alluvial, the soil is calcareous, and contains numerous
travelled fragments of limestone. At a
considerable distance below Edmonton, the river,
continuing its course through the plains, becomes
turbid, and acquires a white colour. In this state
it is drunk by the inmates of Carlton House, where
the disease is known only by name. It is said
that the inhabitants of Rocky Mountain House,
sixty miles nearer the source of the river are more
severely affected than those at Edmonton. The
same disease occurs near the sources of the Elk
and Peace Rivers; but, in those parts of the
country which are distant from the Rocky Mountain
Chain, it is unknown, although melted snow
forms the only drink of the natives for nine months
of the year.
"A residence of a single year at Edmonton is
sufficient to render a family bronchocelous. Many
of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt sponge
has been tried, and found to remove the disease,
but an exposure to the same cause immediately
reproduces it.
"A great proportion of the children of women
who have goitres, are born idiots, with large
heads, and the other distinguishing marks of
cretins. I could not learn whether it was necessary
that both parents should have goitres, to produce
cretin children: indeed the want of chastity
in the half-breed women would be a bar to the
deduction of any inference on this head."
February 8.—Having recovered from the swellings
and pains which our late march from Cumberland
had occasioned, we prepared for the commencement
of our journey to Isle à la Crosse,
and requisitions were made on both the establishments
for the means of conveyance, and the necessary
supply of provisions for the party, which
were readily furnished. On the 9th the carioles
and sledges were loaded, and sent off after breakfast;
but Mr. Back and I remained till the afternoon,
as Mr. Prudens had offered that his horses
should convey us to the encampment. At 3 P.M.
we parted from our kind host, and in passing
through the gate were honoured with a salute of
musketry. After riding six miles, we joined the
men at their encampment, which was made under
the shelter of a few poplars. The dogs had been
so much fatigued in wading through the very deep
snow with their heavy burdens, having to drag
upwards of ninety pounds' weight each, that they
could get no farther. Soon after our arrival, the
snow began to fall heavily, and it continued
through the greater part of the night.
Our next day's march was therefore particularly
tedious, the snow being deep, and the route lying
across an unvarying level, destitute of wood, except
one small cluster of willows. In the afternoon
we reached the end of the plain, and came
to an elevation, on which poplars, willows, and
some pines grew, where we encamped; having
travelled ten miles. We crossed three small
lakes, two of fresh water and one of salt, near
the latter of which we encamped, and were, in
consequence, obliged to use for our tea, water
made from snow, which has always a disagreeable
taste.
We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following
morning, when a large herd of red-deer
was perceived grazing at a little distance; and,
though we were amply supplied with provision,
our Canadian companions could not resist the
temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock.
A half-breed hunter was therefore sent after them.
He succeeded in wounding one, but not so as to
prevent its running off with the herd in a direction
wide of our course. A couple of rabbits and
a brace of wood partridges were shot in the
afternoon. There was an agreeable variety of hill
and dale in the scenery we passed through to-day;
and sufficient wood for ornament, but not enough
to crowd the picture. The valleys were intersected
by several small lakes and pools, whose
snowy covering was happily contrasted with the
dark green of the pine-trees which surrounded
them. After ascending a moderately high hill
by a winding path through a close wood, we
opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois, and had a
full view of its picturesque shores. We crossed
it and encamped.
Though the sky was cloudless, yet the weather
was warm. We had the gratification of finding
a beaten track soon after we started on the morning
of the 12th, and were thus enabled to walk
briskly. We crossed at least twenty hills, and
found a small lake or pool at the foot of each.
The destructive ravages of fire were visible
during the greater part of the day. The only
wood we saw for miles together consisted of pine-trees
stript of their branches and bark by this
element: in other parts poplars alone were growing,
which we have remarked invariably to succeed
the pine after a conflagration. We walked
twenty miles to-day, but the direct distance was
only sixteen.
The remains of an Indian hut were found in a
deep glen, and close to it was placed a pile of
wood, which our companions supposed to cover a
deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, induced
by their insatiable desire of procuring food,
proceeded to remove the upper pieces, and examine
its contents; when, to their surprise, they
found the body of a female, clothed in leather,
which appeared to have been recently placed
there. Her former garments, the materials for
making a fire, a fishing-line, a hatchet, and a
bark dish, were laid beside the corpse. The
wood was carefully replaced. A small owl,
perched on a tree near the spot, called forth
many singular remarks from our companions, as
to its being a good or bad omen.
We walked the whole of the 13th over flat meadow-land,
which is much resorted to by the buffalo
at all seasons. Some herds of them were seen,
which our hunters were too unskilful to approach.
In the afternoon we reached the Stinking Lake,
which is nearly of an oval form. Its shores are
very low and swampy, to which circumstances,
and not to the bad quality of the waters, it owes
its Indian name. Our observations place its
western part in latitude 53° 25' 24" N., longitude
107° 18' 58" W., variation 20° 32' 10" E.
After a march of fifteen miles and a half, we
encamped among a few pines, at the only spot
where we saw sufficient wood for making our fire
during the day. The next morning, about an
hour after we had commenced our march, we came
upon a beaten track, and perceived recent marks
of snow-shoes. In a short time an Iroquois joined
us, who was residing with a party of Cree-Indians,
to secure the meat and furs they should
collect, for the North-West Company. He accompanied
us as far as the stage on which his
meat was placed, and then gave us a very pressing
invitation to halt for the day and partake of
his fare; which, as the hour was too early, we
declined, much to the annoyance of our Canadian
companions, who had been cherishing the prospect
of indulging their amazing appetites at this
well-furnished store, ever since the man had been
with us. He gave them, however, a small supply
previous to our parting. The route now crossed
some ranges of hills, on which fir, birch, and poplar,
grew so thickly, that we had much difficulty in
getting the sledges through the narrow pathway
between them. In the evening we descended
from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy
meadows, and encamped at their northern extremity,
within a cluster of large pine-trees, the
branches of which were elegantly decorated with
abundance of a greenish yellow lichen. Our
march was ten miles. The weather was very
mild, almost too warm for the exercise we were
taking.
We had a strong gale from the N.W. during
the night, which subsided as the morning opened.
One of the sledges had been so much broken the
day before in the woods, that we had to divide its
cargo among the others. We started after this
had been arranged, and finding almost immediately
a firm track, soon arrived at some Indian
lodges to which it led. The inhabitants
were Crees, belonging to the posts on the Saskatchawan,
from whence they had come to hunt
beaver. We made but a short stay, and proceeded
through a Swamp to Pelican Lake. Our
view to the right was bounded by a range of
lofty hills, which extended for several miles in a
north and south direction, which, it may be remarked,
was that of all the hilly land we had
passed since quitting the plain.
Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six
miles from east to west, and eight from north to
south; it decreases to the breadth of a mile towards
the northern extremity, and is there terminated
by a creek. We went up this creek for a
short distance, and then struck into the woods,
and encamped among a cluster of the firs, which
the Canadians term cyprès (pinus Banksiana,)
having come fourteen miles and a half.
February 16.—Shortly after commencing the
journey to-day, we met an Indian and his family,
who had come from the houses at Green Lake;
they informed us the track was well beaten the
whole way. We therefore, put forth our utmost
speed in the hope of reaching them by night; but
were disappointed, and had to halt at dark, about
twelve miles from them, in a fisherman's hut,
which was unoccupied. Frequent showers of
snow fell during the day, and the atmosphere
was thick and gloomy.
We started at an early hour the following
morning, and reached the Hudson's Bay Company's
post to breakfast, and were received very
kindly by Mr. Mac Farlane, the gentleman in
charge. The other establishment, situated on
the opposite side of the river, was under the
direction of Mr. Dugald Cameron, one of the
partners of the North-West Company, on whom
Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival, and
were honoured with a salute of musquetry.
These establishments are small, but said to
be well situated for procuring furs; as the
numerous creeks in their vicinity are much resorted
to by the beaver, otter, and musquash.
The residents usually obtain a superabundant
supply of provision. This season, however, they
barely had sufficient for their own support,
owing to the epidemic which has incapacitated
the Indians for hunting. The Green Lake lies
nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in
length, and does not exceed one mile and a half
of breadth in any part. The water is deep, and
it is in consequence one of the last lakes in the
country that is frozen. Excellent tittameg and
trout are caught in it from March to December,
but after that time most of the fish remove to some
larger lake.
We remained two days, awaiting the return of
some men who had been sent to the Indian
lodges for meat, and who were to go on with us.
Mr. Back and I did not need this rest, having
completely surmounted the pain occasioned by
the snow-shoes. We dined twice with Mr.
Cameron, and received from him many useful
suggestions respecting our future operations.
This gentleman having informed us that provisions
would, probably, be very scarce next
spring in the Athabasca department, in consequence
of the sickness of the Indians during
the hunting season, undertook at my request to
cause a supply of pemmican to be conveyed from
the Saskatchawan to Isle à la Crosse for our use
during the winter, and I wrote to apprize Dr.
Richardson and Mr. Hood, that they would find
it at the latter post when they passed; and also
to desire them to bring as much as the canoes
would stow from Cumberland.
The atmosphere was clear and cold during our
stay; observations were obtained at the Hudson
Bay Fort, lat. 54° 16' 10" N., long. 107° 29' 52"
W., var. 22° 6' 35" E.
February 20.—Having been equipped with
carioles, sledges, and provisions, from the two
posts, we this day recommenced our journey, and
were much amused by the novelty of the salute
given at our departure, the guns being principally
fired by the women in the absence of the men.
Our course was directed to the end of the
lake, and for a short distance along a small
river; we then crossed the woods to the Beaver
River, which we found to be narrow and very serpentine,
having moderately high banks. We
encamped about one mile and a half further up
among poplars. The next day we proceeded
along the river; it was winding, and about two
hundred yards broad. We passed the mouths
of two rivers whose waters it receives; the latter
one, we were informed, is a channel by which
the Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. The
banks of the river became higher as we advanced,
and were adorned with pines, poplars,
and willows.
Though the weather was very cold, we travelled
more comfortably than at any preceding time
since our departure from Cumberland, as we had
light carioles, which enabled us to ride nearly
the whole day, warmly covered up with a buffalo
robe. We were joined by Mr. McLeod, of the
North-West Company, who had kindly brought
some things from Green Lake, which our
sledges could not carry. Pursuing our route
along the river, we reached at an early hour the
upper extremity of the "Grand Rapid," where
the ice was so rough that the carioles and sledges
had to be conveyed across a point of land. Soon
after noon we left the river, inclining N.E., and
directed our course N.W., until we reached Long
Lake, and encamped at its northern extremity,
having come twenty-three miles. This lake is
about fourteen miles long, and from three quarters
to one mile and a half broad; its shores and
islands low, but well wooded. There were frequent
snow-showers during the day.
February 23.—The night was very stormy,
but the wind became more moderate in the
morning. We passed to-day through several
nameless lakes and swamps before we came to
Train Lake, which received its name from being
the place where the traders procured the birch to
make their sledges, or traineaux; but this wood
has been all used, and there only remain pines
and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden
with fish, kindly sent to meet us by Mr. Clark, of
the Hudson's Bay Company, on hearing of our
approach. Towards the evening the weather
became much more unpleasant, and we were exposed
to a piercingly cold wind, and much snow-drift,
in traversing the Isle à la Crosse Lake; we
were, therefore, highly pleased at reaching the
Hudson's Bay House by six P.M. We were
received in the most friendly manner by Mr.
Clark, and honoured by volleys of musketry.
Similar marks of attention were shewn to us
on the following day by Mr. Bethune, the
partner in charge of the North-West Company's
Fort. I found here the letters which I had
addressed from Cumberland, in November last,
to the partners of the North-West Company, in
the Athabasca, which circumstance convinced me
of the necessity of our present journey.
These establishments are situated on the
southern side of the lake, and close to each other.
They are forts of considerable importance, being
placed at a point of communication with the
English River, the Athabasca, and Columbia
Districts. The country around them is low, and
intersected with water, and was formerly much
frequented by beavers and otters, which, however,
have been so much hunted by the Indians,
that their number is greatly decreased. The
Indians frequenting these forts are the Crees
and some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come
except in the spring and autumn; in the former
season to bring their winter's collection of furs,
and in the latter to get the stores they require.
Three Chipewyan lads came in during our
stay, to report what furs the band to which they
belonged had collected, and to desire they might
be sent for; the Indians having declined bringing
either furs or meat themselves, since the opposition
between the Companies commenced. Mr.
Back drew the portrait of one of the boys.
Isle à la Crosse Lake receives its name from an
island situated near the forts, on which the Indians
formerly assembled annually to amuse themselves
at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated
for abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh
from five to fifteen pounds. The residents live
principally upon this most delicious fish, which
fortunately can be eaten a long time without
disrelish. It is plentifully caught with nets
throughout the year, except for two or three
months.
March 4.—We witnessed the Aurora Borealis
very brilliant for the second time since our departure
from Cumberland. A winter encampment
is not a favourable situation for viewing
this phenomenon, as the trees in general hide
the sky. Arrangements had been made for recommencing
our journey to-day, but the wind
was stormy, and the snow had drifted too much
for travelling with comfort; we therefore stayed
and dined with Mr. Bethune, who promised to
render every assistance in getting pemmican conveyed
to us from the Saskatchawan, to be in
readiness for our canoes, when they might arrive
in the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to procure
six bags for us, and to furnish our canoes with
any other supplies which might be wanted, and
could be spared from his post, and to contribute
his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the Athabasca,
if our canoes could not carry it all.
I feel greatly indebted to this gentleman
for much valuable information respecting the
country and the Indians residing to the north of
Slave Lake, and for furnishing me with a list
of stores he supposed we should require. He
had resided some years on Mackenzie's River,
and had been once so far towards its mouth as to
meet the Esquimaux in great numbers. But
they assumed such a hostile attitude, that he
deemed it unadvisable to attempt opening any
communication with them, and retreated as
speedily as he could.
The observations we obtained here shewed that
the chronometers had varied their rates a little
in consequence of the jolting of the carioles, but
their errors and rates were ascertained previous
to our departure. We observed the position of
this fort to be latitude 55° 25' 35" N., longitude
107° 51' 00" W., by lunars reduced back
from Fort Chipewyan, variation 22° 15' 48" W.,
dip 84° 13' 35".
March 5.—We recommenced our journey this
morning, having been supplied with the means
of conveyance by both the Companies in equal
proportions. Mr. Clark accompanied us with
the intention of going as far as the boundary of
his district. This gentleman was an experienced
winter traveller, and we derived much benefit
from his suggestions; he caused the men to
arrange the encampment with more attention to
comfort and shelter than our former companions
had done. After marching eighteen miles we
put up on Gravel Point, in the Deep River.
At nine the next morning, we came to the commencement
of Clear Lake. We crossed its
southern extremes, and then went over a point of
land to Buffalo Lake, and encamped after travelling
twenty-six miles. After supper we were entertained
till midnight with paddling songs, by
our Canadians, who required very little stimulus
beyond their natural vivacity, to afford us this diversion.
The next morning we arrived at the
establishments which are situated on the western
side of the lake, near a small stream, called the
Beaver River. They were small log buildings,
hastily erected last October, for the convenience
of the Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr.
Mac Murray, a partner in the N.W. Company,
having sent to Isle à la Crosse an invitation to
Mr. Back and I, our carioles were driven to
his post, and we experienced the kindest reception.
These posts are frequented by only a few
Indians, Crees, and Chipewyans. The country
round is not sufficiently stocked with animals to
afford support to many families, and the traders
subsist almost entirely on fish caught in the autumn,
prior to the lake being frozen; but the water
being shallow, they remove to a deeper part,
as soon as the lake is covered with ice. The
Aurora Borealis was brilliantly displayed on both
the nights we remained here, but particularly on
the 7th, when its appearances were most diversified,
and the motion extremely rapid. Its coruscations
occasionally concealed from sight stars of
the first magnitude in passing over them, at
other times these were faintly discerned through
them; once I perceived a stream of light to illumine
the under surface of some clouds as it
passed along. There was no perceptible noise.
Mr. Mac Murray gave a dance to his voyagers
and the women; this is a treat which
they expect on the arrival of any stranger at
the post.
We were presented by this gentleman with
the valuable skin of a black fox, which he had
entrapped some days before our arrival; it
was forwarded to England with other specimens.
Our observations place the North-West Company's
House in latitude 55° 53' 00" N., longitude
108° 51' 10" W., variation 22° 33' 22" E.
The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate
height, and well wooded, but immediately beyond
the bank the country is very swampy and intersected
with water in every direction. At some
distance from the western side there is a conspicuous
hill, which we hailed with much pleasure, as
being the first interruption to the tediously uniform
scene we had for some time passed through.
On the 10th we recommenced our journey after
breakfast, and travelled quickly, as we had the
advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of
eighteen miles we entered upon the river
"Loche," which has a serpentine course, and is
confined between alluvial banks that support
stunted willows and a few pines; we encamped
about three miles further on; and in the course
of the next day's march perceived several holes
on the ice, and many unsafe places for the sledges.
Our companions said the ice of this river is always
in the same insecure state, even during the
most severe winter, which they attributed to
warm springs. Quitting the river, we crossed a
portage and came upon the Methye Lake, and
soon afterwards arrived at the trading posts
on its western side. These were perfect huts,
which had been hastily built after the commencement
of the last winter. We here saw
two hunters who were Chipewyan half-breeds,
and made many inquiries of them respecting the
countries we expected to visit, but we found
them quite ignorant of every part beyond the
Athabasca Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne
and of his companion Matonnabee, but did not
add to our stock of information respecting that
journey. It had happened before their birth,
but they remembered the expedition of Sir Alexander
Mackenzie towards the sea.
This is a picturesque lake, about ten miles
long and six broad, and receives its name from
a species of fish caught in it, but not much
esteemed; the residents never eat any part but
the liver except through necessity, the dogs
dislike even that. The tittameg and trout are
also caught in the fall of the year. The position
of the houses by our observations is latitude
56° 24' 20" N., longitude 109° 23' 06" W.,
variation 22° 50' 28" E.
On the 13th we renewed our journey and
parted from Mr. Clark, to whom we were much
obliged for his hospitality and kindness. We
soon reached the Methye Portage, and had a
very pleasant ride across it in our carioles. The
track was good and led through groups of pines,
so happily placed that it would not have required
a great stretch of imagination to fancy ourselves
in a well-arranged park. We had now to
cross a small lake, and then gradually ascended
hills beyond it, until we arrived at the summit
of a lofty chain of mountains commanding
the most picturesque and romantic prospect
we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges
of high hills run parallel to each other for several
miles, until the faint blue haze hides their particular
characters, when they slightly change their
course, and are lost to the view. The space
between them is occupied by nearly a level plain,
through which a river pursues a meandering
course, and receives supplies from the creeks and
rills issuing from the mountains on each side.
The prospect was delightful even amid the snow,
and though marked with all the cheerless characters
of winter; how much more charming
must it be when the trees are in leaf, and the
ground is arrayed in summer verdure! Some
faint idea of the difference was conveyed to my
mind by witnessing the effect of the departing
rays of a brilliant sun. The distant prospect,
however, is surpassed in grandeur by the wild
scenery which appeared immediately below our
feet. There the eye penetrates into vast ravines
two or three hundred feet in depth, that are
clothed with trees, and lie on either side of the
narrow pathway descending to the river over
eight successive ridges of hills. At one spot
termed the Cockscomb, the traveller stands insulated
as it were on a small slip, where a false
step might precipitate him into the glen. From
this place Mr. Back took an interesting and
accurate sketch, to allow time for which,
we encamped early, having come twenty-one
miles.
The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in
extent, and over this space the canoes and all their
cargoes are carried, both in going to and from the
Athabasca department. It is part of the range of
mountains which separates the waters flowing
south from those flowing north. According to Sir
Alexander Mackenzie, "this range of hills continues
in a S.W. direction until its local height is
lost between the Saskatchawan and Elk Rivers,
close on the banks of the former, in latitude 53°
36' N., longitude 113° 45' W., when it appears to
take its course due north." Observations, taken in
the spring by Mr. Hood, place the northside of the
portage in latitude 56° 41' 40" N., longitude 109°
52' 15" W., variation 25° 2' 30" E., dip 85° 7' 27".
At daylight on the 14th we began to descend
the range of hills leading towards the river, and
no small care was required to prevent the sledges
from being broken in going down these almost
perpendicular heights, or being precipitated into
the glens on each side. As a precautionary measure
the dogs were taken off, and the sledges
guided by the men, notwithstanding which they
descended with amazing rapidity, and the men
were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes in
endeavouring to stop them. When we had arrived
at the bottom I could not but feel astonished
at the laborious task which the voyagers have
twice in the year to encounter at this place, in
conveying their stores backwards and forwards.
We went across the Clear Water River, which
runs at the bases of these hills, and followed an
Indian track along its northern bank, by which
we avoided the White Mud and Good Portages.
We afterwards followed the river as far as the
Pine Portage, when we passed through a very
romantic defile of rocks, which presented the appearance
of Gothic ruins, and their rude characters
were happily contrasted with the softness of
the snow, and the darker foliage of the pines
which crowned their summits. We next crossed
the Cascade Portage, which is the last on the way
to the Athabasca Lake, and soon afterwards came
to some Indian tents, containing five families,
belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We smoked
the calumet in the Chiefs tent, whose name was
the Thumb, and distributed some tobacco and a
weak mixture of spirits and water among the
men. They received this civility with much less
grace than the Crees, and seemed to consider it
a matter of course. There was an utter neglect
of cleanliness, and a total want of comfort in their
tents; and the poor creatures were miserably
clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied us from
the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in
this forlorn condition by explaining, that this band
of Indians had recently destroyed every thing
they possessed, as a token of their great grief for
the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sickness.
It appears that no article is spared by
these unhappy men when a near relative dies;
their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their
guns broken, and every other weapon rendered
useless, if some person do not remove these articles
from their sight, which is seldom done.—Mr.
Back sketched one of the children, which delighted
the father very much, who charged the
boy to be very good, since his picture had
been drawn by a great chief. We learned that
they prize pictures very highly, and esteem any
they can get, however badly executed, as efficient
charms. They were unable to give us any information
respecting the country beyond the Athabasca
Lake, which is the boundary of their peregrinations
to the northward. Having been apprized
of our coming, they had prepared an encampment
for us; but we had witnessed too many
proofs of their importunity to expect that we could
pass the night near them in any comfort, whilst
either spirits, tobacco, or sugar remained in our
possession; and therefore preferred to go about
two miles further along the river, and to encamp
among a cluster of fine pine-trees, after a journey
of sixteen miles.
On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along
the river we perceived a strong smell of sulphur,
and on the north shore found a quantity of it scattered,
which seemed to have been deposited by
some spring in the neighbourhood: it appeared
very pure and good. We continued our course
the whole day along the river, which is about four
hundred yards wide, has some islands, and is
confined between low land, extending from the
bases of the mountains on each side. We put
up at the end of thirteen miles, and were then
joined by a Chipewyan, who came, as we supposed,
to serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet,
but as none of the party could communicate with
our new friend, otherwise than by signs, we
waited patiently until the morning to see what he
intended to do. The wind blew a gale during
the night, and the snow fell heavily. The next
day our guide led us to the Pembina River, which
comes from the southward, where we found traces
of Indians, who appeared to have quitted this
station the day before; we had, therefore, the
benefit of a good track, which our dogs much required,
as they were greatly fatigued, having
dragged their loads through very deep snow for
the last two days. A moose-deer crossed the
river just before the party: this animal is plentiful
in the vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant
well-sheltered place, having travelled fourteen
miles.
A short distance on the following morning,
brought us to some Indian lodges, which belonged
to an old Chipewyan chief, named the
Sun, and his family, consisting of five hunters,
their wives, and children. They were delighted
to see us, and when the object of our expedition
had been explained to them, expressed themselves
much interested in our progress; but they
could not give a particle of information respecting
the countries beyond the Athabasca Lake.
We smoked with them, and gave each person
a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A
Canadian servant of the North-West Company,
who was residing with them, informed us that
this family had lost numerous relatives, and that
the destruction of property, which had been made
after their deaths, was the only cause for the pitiable
condition in which we saw them, as the
whole family were industrious hunters, and,
therefore, were usually better provided with
clothes, and other useful articles, than most of the
Indians. We purchased from them a pair of
snow-shoes, in exchange for some ammunition.
The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them
good and easy to walk in; we saw some here
upwards of six feet long, and three broad. With
these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the
spring, when there is a crust on the surface of the
snow, will run down a moose or red deer.
We made very slow progress after leaving this
party, on account of the deep snow, but continued
along the river until we reached its junction
with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained
observations on an island, a little below the
Forks, which gave, longitude 111° 8' 42" W.,
variation 24° 18' 20" E. Very little wood was
seen during this day's march. The western
shore, near the Forks, is destitute of trees; it is
composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs, which were
now covered with snow. The eastern shore supports
a few pines.
March 18.—Soon after our departure from the
encampment, we met two men from the establishment
at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct
information of its situation and distance. Having
the benefit of their track, we marched at a tolerably
quick pace, and made twenty-two miles in
the course of the day, though the weather was
very disagreeable for travelling, being stormy,
with constant snow. We kept along the river
the whole time: its breadth is about two miles.
The islands appear better furnished with wood
than its banks, the summits of which are almost
bare. Soon after we had encamped our Indian
guide rejoined us; he had remained behind the
day before, without consulting us, to accompany
a friend on a hunting excursion. On his return
he made no endeavour to explain the
reason of his absence, but sat down coolly,
and began to prepare his supper. This behaviour
made us sensible that little dependence is
to be placed on the continuance of an Indian
guide, when his inclination leads him away.
Early the next morning we sent forward the
Indian and a Canadian, to apprize the gentleman
in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach;
and, after breakfast, the rest of the party proceeded
along the river for that station, which we
reached in the afternoon. The senior partner of
the North-West Company in the Athabasca department,
Mr. John Stuart, was in charge of the
post. Though he was quite ignorant until this
morning of our being in the country, we found
him prepared to receive us with great kindness,
and ready to afford every information and assistance,
agreeably to the desire conveyed in Mr.
Simon McGillivray's circular letter. This gentleman
had twice traversed this continent, and
reached the Pacific by the Columbia River; he
was therefore, fully conversant with the different
modes of travelling, and with the obstacles that
may be expected in passing through unfrequented
countries. His suggestions and advice were consequently
very valuable to us, but not having been
to the northward of the Great Slave Lake, he had
no knowledge of that line of country, except what
he had gained from the reports of Indians. He
was of opinion, however, that positive information,
on which our course of proceedings might
safely be determined, could be procured from the
Indians that frequent the north side of the lake,
when they came to the forts in the Spring. He
recommended my writing to the partner in charge
of that department, requesting him to collect
all the intelligence he could, and to provide
guides and hunters from the tribe best acquainted
with the country through which we proposed
to travel.
To our great regret, Mr. Stuart expressed
much doubt as to our prevailing upon any experienced
Canadian voyagers to accompany us to
the sea, in consequence of their dread of the
Esquimaux; who, he informed us, had already
destroyed the crew of one canoe, which had been
sent under Mr. Livingstone, to open a trading
communication with those who reside near the
mouth of the Mackenzie River; and he also mentioned,
that the same tribe had driven away the
canoes under Mr. Clark's direction, going to
them on a similar object, to which circumstance
I have alluded in my remarks at Isle à la
Crosse.
This was unpleasant information; but we were
comforted by Mr. Stuart's assurance that himself
and his partners would use every endeavour to remove
their fears, as well as to promote our views
in every other way; and he undertook, as a
necessary part of our equipment in the spring,
to prepare the bark and other materials for constructing
two canoes at this post.
Mr. Stuart informed us that the residents at Fort
Chipewyan, from the recent sickness of their Indian
hunters, had been reduced to subsist entirely
on the produce of their fishing-nets, which did not
then yield more than a bare sufficiency for their
support; and he kindly proposed to us to remain
with him until the spring: but, as we were most
desirous to gain all the information we could as
early as possible, and Mr. Stuart assured us that
the addition of three persons would not be materially
felt in their large family at Chipewyan, we
determined on proceeding thither, and fixed on
the 22d for our departure.
Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the
place where the stone is procured, of which many
of the pipes used by the Canadians and Indians
are made. It is a clayey limestone, impregnated
with various shells. The house, which is built on
the summit of a steep bank, rising almost perpendicular
to the height of one hundred and
eighty feet, commands an extensive prospect along
this fine river, and over the plains which stretch
out several miles at the back of it, bounded by
hills of considerable height, and apparently better
furnished with wood than the neighbourhood of
the fort, where the trees grow very scantily.
There had been an establishment belonging to
the Hudson's Bay Company on the opposite bank
of the river, but it was abandoned in December
last, the residents not being able to procure
provision, from their hunters having been disabled
by the epidemic sickness, which has carried
off one-third of the Indians in these parts.
They belong to the Northern Crees, a name
given them from their residing in the Athabasca
department. There are now but few families of
these men, who, formerly, by their numbers and
predatory habits, spread terror among the natives
of this part of the country.
There are springs of bituminous matter on
several of the islands near these houses; and
the stones on the river-bank are much impregnated
with this useful substance. There is also
another place remarkable for the production of a
sulphureous salt, which is deposited on the surface
of a round-backed hill about half a mile from
the beach, and on the marshy ground underneath
it. We visited these places at a subsequent period
of the journey, and descriptions of them will appear
in Dr. Richardson's Mineralogical Notices.
The latitude of the North-West Company's
House is 57° 24' 06" N., but this was the only
observation we could obtain, the atmosphere being
cloudy. Mr. Stuart had an excellent thermometer,
which indicated the lowest state of temperature to
be 43° below zero. He told me 45° was the lowest
temperature he had ever witnessed at the Athabasca
or Great Slave Lake, after many years' residence.
On the 21st it rose above zero, and at noon
attained the height of 43°; the atmosphere was
sultry, snow fell constantly, and there was quite an
appearance of a change in the season. On the
22d we parted from our hospitable friend, and
recommenced our journey, but under the expectation
of seeing him again in May; at which time
the partners of the Company usually assemble at
Fort Chipewyan, where we hoped the necessary
arrangements for our future proceedings would be
completed. We encamped at sunset at the end
of fourteen miles, having walked the whole way
along the river, which preserves nearly a true
north course, and is from four hundred to six
hundred yards broad. The banks are high, and
well clothed with the liard, spruce, fir, alder,
birch-tree, and willows. Having come nineteen
miles and a half, on the 23d, we encamped among
pines of a great height and girth.
Showers of snow fell until noon on the following
day, but we continued our journey along
the river, whose banks and islands became gradually
lower as we advanced, and less abundantly
supplied with wood, except willows. We
passed an old Canadian, who was resting his
wearied dogs during the heat of the sun. He
was carrying meat from some Indian lodges to
Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding two
hundred and fifty pounds on his sledge, which
was dragged by two miserable dogs. He came
up to our encampment after dark. We were much
amused by the altercation that took place between
him and our Canadian companions as to the qualifications
of their respective dogs. This, however,
is such a general topic of conversation
among the voyagers in the encampment, that we
should not probably have remarked it, had not
the old man frequently offered to bet the whole of
his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean as
they were, would drag their load to the Athabasca
Lake in less time than any three of theirs.
Having expressed our surprise at his apparent
temerity, he coolly said the men from the lower
countries did not understand the management of
their dogs, and that he depended on his superior
skill in driving; and we soon gathered from his
remarks, that the voyagers of the Athabasca department
consider themselves very superior to
any other. The only reasons which he could
assign were, that they had borne their burdens
across the terrible Methye Portage, and that they
were accustomed to live harder and more precariously.
March 25.—Having now the guidance of the
old Canadian, we sent forward the Indian, and
one of our men, with letters to the gentleman at
the Athabasca Lake. The rest of the party set
off afterwards, and kept along the river until ten,
when we branched off by portages into the Embarras
River, the usual channel of communication
in canoes with the lake. It is a narrow and serpentine
stream, confined between alluvial banks
which support pines, poplars, and willows. We
had not advanced far before we overtook the
two men despatched by us this morning. The
stormy weather had compelled them to encamp,
as there was too much drifting of the snow
for any attempt to cross the lake. We were
obliged, though most reluctantly, to follow
their example; but comforted ourselves with
the reflection that this was the first time we had
been stopped by the weather during our long
journey, which was so near at an end. The gale
afterwards increased, the squalls at night became
very violent, disburthened the trees of the snow,
and gave us the benefit of a continual fall of
patches from them, in addition to the constant
shower. We therefore quickly finished our
suppers, and retired under the shelter of our
blankets.
March 26.—The boisterous weather continued
through the night, and it was not before six this
morning that the wind became apparently moderate,
and the snow ceased. Two of the Canadians
were immediately sent off with letters to
the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After breakfast
we also started, but our Indian friend, having
a great indisposition to move in such weather,
remained by the fire. We soon quitted the river,
and after crossing a portage, a small lake, and a
point of land, came to the borders of the Mamma-wee
Lake. We then found our error as to
the strength of the wind; and that the gale still
blew violently, and there was so much drifting of
the snow as to cover the distant objects by which
our course could be directed. We fortunately got
a glimpse through this cloud of a cluster of islands
in the direction of the houses, and decided on
walking towards them; but in doing this we
suffered very much from the cold, and were
obliged to halt under the shelter of them, and
await the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted
us between these islands, over a small
lake and by a swampy river, into the Athabasca
Lake, from whence the establishments were
visible. At four P.M. we had the pleasure of
arriving at Fort Chipewyan, and of being received
by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners
of the North-West Company in charge, in the
most kind and hospitable manner. Thus terminated
a winter's journey of eight hundred
and fifty-seven miles, in the progress of which
there was a great intermixture of agreeable
and disagreeable circumstances. Could the
amount of each be balanced, I suspect the latter
would much preponderate; and amongst these
the initiation into walking in snow-shoes must
be considered as prominent. The suffering it
occasions can be but faintly imagined by a
person who thinks upon the inconvenience of
marching with a weight of between two and
three pounds constantly attached to galled feet,
and swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice
only will enable the novice to surmount this
pain.
The next evil is the being constantly exposed
to witness the wanton and unnecessary cruelty
of the men to their dogs, especially those of the
Canadians, who beat them unmercifully, and
habitually vent on them the most dreadful and
disgusting imprecations. There are other inconveniences
which though keenly felt during
the day's journey, are speedily forgotten when
stretched out in the encampment before a large
fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions,
who usually pass the evening in recounting
their former feats in travelling. At this time the
Canadians are always cheerful and merry, and
the only bar to their comfort arises from the frequent
interruption occasioned by the dogs, who
are constantly prowling about the circle, and
snatching at every kind of food that happens to
be within their reach. These useful animals are
a comfort to them afterwards, by the warmth
they impart when lying down by their side or
feet, as they usually do. But the greatest gratifications
a traveller in these regions enjoys, are
derived from the hospitable welcome he receives
at every trading post, however poor the means
of the host may be; and from being disrobed
even for a short time of the trappings of a
voyager, and experiencing the pleasures of
cleanliness.
The following are the estimated distances, in
statute miles, which Mr. Back and I had travelled
since our departure from Cumberland:
| From Cumberland House to Carlton House | 263 |
| From Carlton to Isle à la Crosse | 230 |
| From Isle à la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage | 124 |
| From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan | 240 |
| | —— |
| | 857 Miles. |
