My Crochet Sampler

The following pages contain a selection of patterns adapted to almost every purpose to which the art of Crochet is applicable,—whether as an useful or a decorative species of work. Many of the designs have been expressly composed for this little treatise; others have been selected, as being very effective, from the chapter on Crochet in “The Hand-Book Of Needlework;” but the designs that have been taken from the latter have been re-engraved.

In the directions for working the several designs, the plan pursued by the writer (and apparently with success) in her books on Knitting, has been adopted. She has aimed at simplicity, and the use of as few words as possible, consistent with a clear explanation of the subject.

The reception given to “My Knitting Book,” as a treatise, separate from other descriptions of Decorative Needlework, led her to suppose that a distinct work on the sister art of Crochet might be equally acceptable; and the publication of “Das neue Hakelbuch Von Miss Lambert,”—a literal translation of the present volume, with its engravings, proves that it has excited some attention, even in Germany, a country which has laid claim to the invention of the art.

3, New Burlington Street,
Regent Street.

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	PAGE
Introduction	9
Explanation of the Terms used in Crochet	15
Plain Stitch Open Crochet	16
Open Crochet	17
Double Open Crochet	18
Treble Open Crochet	19
Hints on Crochet	22
A Sofa Pillow, or Table Cover	24
Another very Easy Pattern	26
A Sofa Pillow in Stripes	27
A very Handsome and Easy Pattern	29
Another Sofa Pillow	33
Scroll Border for a Table Cover, etc.	34
A Persian Pattern Border	39
A Sofa Pillow in Plain and Treble Open Crochet	44
A very Rich Crochet Pattern	45
Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, etc.	52
A Table Cover, or Pillow	53
A Couvre-Pied, or Cradle Quilt	55
Raised Crochet	57
A Sofa Pillow, Table Cover, etc.	58
Border Pattern for a Square	60
A Diagonal-striped Bag, with Star-shaped Bottom	63
A Star Bottom for a Bag with Beads	65
A Round Bag with Star Bottom, and Sprigs in Silk and Gold	66
A Bag in Silk and Gold	70
A very Pretty Bag in Shades of Silk with Gold	73
A Chenille Bag	75
An Open Crochet Bag in Chenille	78
A Greek Cap in Crochet Silk	80
A Greek Cap in Coarse Chenille	80
An Essuie-Plume	81
A Neck Chain	82
A Crochet Slipper	83
Another Crochet Slipper	85
A Purse	88
A Plain Purse with one Square and one Round End	88
A Plain-stitch Open Crochet Purse	89
An elegant Purse in Silk and Gold	91
A Short Purse	92
A Sprigged Purse in Open and Plain Crochet	93
An elegant Purse with Gold	94
A Short Purse with Beads	95
A Purse with Beads in Plain and Open Crochet	97
Spiral Crochet Purse	98
A Plain and Open Crochet Purse	99
Another Purse	100
A Round D’Oyley or Mat	101
A Chancelière	103
A Square Border Pattern	106
A Table Cover, Pillow, or Mat	109
Small Pine-Pattern Table Cover	111
Scroll-Pattern Stripe for a Bag	113
An useful Sprig Pattern	114
A Carriage Bag	116
Another Table Cover	118
A Brioche	120
Another Bag in Stripes	123
A Similar Bag	126
A Bag with Five Points	126
A Bag in Treble Open Crochet	129
Patterns in Open Crochet	130
A Travelling Bolster	131
A Slipper in Raised Crochet	134
A Half Square Shawl	135
A Light Shawl	137
Border for a Shawl	138

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Crochet,—a species of knitting originally practised by the peasants in Scotland, with a small hooked needle called a shepherd’s hook,—aided by taste and fashion, has, within the last seven years, obtained the preference over all other ornamental works of a similar nature. It derives its present name from the French; the instrument with which it is worked being by them, from its crooked shape, termed “crochet.” This art has attained its highest degree of perfection in England, whence it has been transplanted to France and Germany, and both these countries, although unjustifiably, have claimed the invention. Crochet has been applied, with considerable success, to the production of numerous useful and decorative articles, such as shawls, table-covers, couvre-pieds, pillows, ottomans, chairs, rugs, slippers, bags, cabats, purses, caps, waistcoats, and the like. Silk, wool, cotton, chenille, and gold, are all suitable materials for this description of work, but the purpose for which it is intended must necessarily determine their choice.

Crochet has the recommendation of being a less intricate method of working than knitting, and therefore claims a more extensive cultivation than perhaps it has hitherto met with. It is particularly adapted for making articles for charitable purposes; hence, the instruction of children in blind schools, in this easy and useful art, is well worthy the attention of philanthropists. Waistcoats, shawls, knee-caps, sleeves, comforters, mittens, gloves, etc., may be made, without difficulty, in crochet. It has not, however, been deemed necessary in the following pages to give directions for any of these simple articles, as, when the crochet stitch is acquired, the modes of working such, and a variety of others, in daily use, will readily present themselves. As an example of the double appropriation, which almost all the following directions admit of, we may instance the bottom of a bag;—this, if commenced with a chain of about fifty stitches (not joining the ends), and worked in coarse wool, with a large needle, in rows backwards and forwards, gradually increasing with a seam stitch, will form a warm and comfortable round cape. A paper pattern, the size of any desired object, can easily be cut,—and the making a stitch at the commencement, or the decreasing in the middle, or the end of a row, and vice versâ, render this work subservient to almost any form.

For large pieces of work, when wool is employed, that kind denominated fleecy, either English or German, is generally to be preferred. This material, of a six-thread size, with an ivory needle, offers the easiest kind of work with which we are acquainted. It may be readily learned, and has, therefore, been much practised, both by invalids, and by persons whose sight either needs relief, or has become impaired. All striped patterns, if desired, may be worked in narrow breadths, and joined in the dividing lines; so that a table cover may be made in four or six lengths, and afterwards sewn together with wool, without the least detriment to its appearance. Crochet may be executed with coarse and fine chenille, for pillows, bags, caps, and waistcoats; with crochet silk, for caps, slippers, and bags; with coarse netting silk, it forms strong purses, bags, and slippers; and the most delicate work may be done with the finer silks. Gold and silver cord, and passing, may be intermixed with the chenilles and silks, or employed separately; and gold and steel beads, first strung on the silk, may be worked in various patterns, so as to produce the most rich and beautiful effect.

Crochet may be divided into plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet with one, two, three, or more stitches. These varieties will be described, as they occur, in the following directions for working.

The mode of working the crochet stitch, although in itself most simple, is difficult to describe in writing; but, with the aid of the annexed engraving, which shows the position of the hands, and the manner in which the needle and the work should be held, we will endeavour to explain the elementary process.

Having wound a skein of wool, make a loop at one end; through this loop draw another loop, through this second loop another, and so on, moderately tightening each, as it is drawn through, until a chain of sufficient length be made to serve as the foundation for the article intended to be worked. Pass the needle through the last loop of this foundation, and catching the wool, draw it through, repeating the same at every successive loop; then, return along this row, and, in a similar manner, form a second. A repetition of this process, alternately backwards and forwards, from right to left, and from left to right, will give the first and easiest lesson. The work will be the same on both sides, producing, by turns, one raised and one sunken row.

Before proceeding further, however, it will, be necessary, for the better understanding of the directions hereafter offered, to give an

A chain,—the foundation, formed by a succession of loops drawn one through the other.

Plain single crochet,—where one loop only is made on the needle, and drawn through each stitch. It is lighter and thinner than double crochet.

Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawn through both before the stitch is finished. This is the crochet stitch generally practised, and that used for working table-covers, etc.

Double stitch crochet,—in this, both meshes of the chain are taken. It is principally employed for the soles of shoes, and where extra thickness is required, but it is not suitable for working patterns.

Plain stitch elastic crochet,—is worked alternately in rows backwards and forwards, from right to left and from left to right, always taking the under mesh of the chain.

Plain stitch open crochet,—is composed of chains, of five stitches each in length, forming loops, each fifth stitch being crocheted to the centre stitch of the corresponding loop in the preceding row, as shown in the engraving. It is mostly used for purses.

Open crochet—is worked (as nearly as can be described) as follows:—make a chain of the length required; work one plain stitch at the beginning. Bring the silk round the needle, and pass the needle through the first loop of the chain; through this bring the silk, which makes three stitches on the needle; draw the silk through the first two stitches, which leaves two on the needle; then draw the silk through these two, which leaves one on the needle; through this one, make one plain stitch. Put the silk over the needle, and bring it through the third loop of the chain; the three stitches, as before, will now be found on the needle; draw the silk through the first two, which leaves two on the needle; draw the silk through these two, which finishes the stitch, and leaves one upon the needle as before. The plain stitch that is then made between the two double stitches, allows for the stitch which was passed in the chain, and leaves an open space. It is suitable for purses, bags, etc.

Double open crochet,—similar to the open crochet stitch, but varied by making the two long stitches together; this is done by omitting the single stitch, and passing the needle through the next loop of the chain, instead of missing one stitch; thus producing two stitches together, and then an open space. It is suitable for bags, purses, &c.

Treble open crochet,—also similar to the preceding, but varied by making three stitches successively, without making any plain stitch, which produces alternate squares of open space and stitches. Beads may be introduced on it with very good effect in the following manner:—let the beads be threaded on the silk, and pass one on the middle stitch of the three double stitches, giving a bead in the centre of each square. This stitch makes a very pretty purse.

To make a stitch,—at the commencement and end of a row, is to make one stitch of a chain before the first stitch, and after the last, which in the next row are to be crocheted.

A dividing, or seam stitch,—called also a raised stitch, is made by putting the needle through both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches in the same hole. These stitches must always be made exactly over each other. In crocheting circles they form a kind of star pattern, and serve the purpose of increasing stitches. They should not be employed when working with chenille.

To increase a stitch,—to make two stitches in the same loop.

To decrease,—to take two stitches together, or to miss one stitch. Decreasing is always done in the same ratio as increasing.

True or perfect stitch,—when working in different colours, the keeping the stitches directly over each other, without any appearance of the half-stitch. This requires care, but it greatly adds to the beauty of the work, and makes the pattern more distinct.

To fasten off,—to draw the wool through the last stitch.

To fasten on,—lay the ends of the wool contrariwise, and crochet a few stitches with both, or work in the second wool, and run the end in with a needle at the back of the work.

To run the ends,—to pass them down a few stitches with a needle. This is the neatest and strongest plan; but they may be tied and cut off.

A dividing line,—generally formed of two stitches alternately up and down, into the ground of the stripes on either side.

N. B. The engravings of the patterns are placed in the book as they are intended to be worked; that is, by commencing at the lower part, on the right hand side.

A steel crochet needle is generally advisable;—with expert workers, it makes the most even stitches, but it is easier to work with an ivory needle.

The second-sized netting silk is prettiest for purses.

The coarsest, or crochet silk, is best adapted for bags, with steel or gold beads.

Where many colours are required in a pattern, and the same do not very frequently occur, it is advisable to introduce them in short lengths, instead of carrying on each thread. This should always be attended to when working with chenille.

When beads are used, they should be strung on the silk with a needle.

When beads are introduced, the wrong side of the work becomes the right. It is possible to crochet with the beads on the right side, but they never lay so firmly, nor indeed is it the proper way of using them.

The average number of stitches for the length of a purse, in fine silk, is one hundred and sixty. In coarse silk,—one hundred and ten.

From ninety to one hundred stitches form the circle of a purse in fine silk.

One hundred and thirty stitches may be taken for the round of a bag, in crochet silk.

A table-cover, in six-thread fleecy, is generally computed at about four hundred stitches in length.

Borders of flowers, and very intricate patterns, may be worked in crochet, but it would be impossible to convey a complete idea of these even to the most experienced worker, without greatly exceeding the limits of the present work. The expert needle-woman will soon perceive the best method of copying any pattern of this description she may desire.

The terms chiné and ombré, are frequently applied to the materials employed in crochet and knitting. Wool and silk are chiné, when two, three, or more different colours are introduced, at intervals, on one thread, in the process of dying;—they are ombré, when one colour only is similarly employed, but which gradually runs from the lightest to the darkest shade.

N. B. In the directions for working the different patterns in crochet, it must be borne in mind, that unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, or double crochet stitch, is always to be employed.

This is merely given as the first and easiest pattern in crochet, for the purpose of teaching the stitch.

A good-sized ivory or steel crochet needle, with six-thread fleecy, will be required. Instead of working the rows backwards and forwards, as before described, begin each row separately at the same end. When the last stitch of each row is finished, draw the wool through, and cut it off, leaving an end of two or three inches. It is impossible to determine the exact number of stitches,—that must depend on the article, and its required size; but with this description of wool, half a yard in length will generally be found to number about sixty-five stitches, and a calculation may accordingly be made.

First stripe—one row black; one row white; one row black.

Second stripe—one row dark scarlet; one bright scarlet; one light scarlet;—reverse the same, to form a shaded stripe.

Third stripe—the same as the first.

Fourth stripe—the same as the second, but in shades of blue.

These stripes are to be repeated alternately.

The ground of this pattern is plain. The cheques are composed of chiné wool, the first row differing in colour from that of the second. The dividing line is in plain colours.

This pattern may be worked in stripes of different colours, varying the colour of the cheques agreeably to that of the ground. It is adapted for a pillow, or a variety of other articles, according to the material employed.

Zephyr, or double German wool.

This pattern may be worked according to the two following methods. The first is the easiest, as one thread of wool only is required to be carried on to form the pattern.

Commence with a chain and one row of black. Second row—scarlet. Third row—straw colour.

Crochet a stripe, consisting of seven rows of imperial blue, with the pattern in chiné wool—black, white, and scarlet.

Repeat the three plain rows, as before, reversed,—straw colour, scarlet, and black.

Crochet another stripe with drab, with the pattern in chiné wool—blue, black, and white.

Commence again as at first.

The second method of working this pattern is as follows,—having the plain rows, and the ground of the two stripes as before. Crochet the figure of the blue stripe,—

First row—three stitches black.

Second row—three stitches claret; two black.

Third row—one stitch dark claret; one gold colour; two dark scarlet; one black.

Fourth row—one stitch scarlet; two gold colour; two scarlet.

Fifth row—three stitches scarlet.

Crochet the figure on the drab stripe,—

First row—three stitches claret.

Second row—three stitches dark green; two claret.

Third row—one stitch middle green; one white; two middle green; one claret.

Fourth row—one stitch light green; two white; two light green.

Fifth row—three stitches light green.

The above pattern may be worked for a bag, with the same colours, using silk instead of wool, and commencing with a chain of about one hundred and thirty stitches, with No. 2 Crochet Silk. It is a very easy bag to work, and, if wished to be more elegant, gold may be introduced. This pattern, also, with the same sized silk, will make a very pretty crochet slipper.

Commence with a chain and one row of amber.

Second row—two stitches of amber, and two of black,—alternately.

Then crochet one plain row of black, which forms the ground of the first stripe. The pine pattern on this stripe occupies five rows in height; the first row—blue; the second—scarlet; the third—green; the fourth—yellow; the fifth—white. One plain row of black; and one row—two stitches of black, and two of amber,—alternately;—followed by one plain row of amber, complete the first stripe.

The ground of the second stripe is scarlet; the dividing lines,—both at top and bottom,—imperial blue, the inner row of each being composed of two stitches, alternately blue and scarlet. The pattern occupies seven rows in height; the first row—green; the second—black; the third—blue; the fourth—amber; the fifth—green; the sixth—stone colour; the seventh—white.

The third stripe is imperial blue; the dividing lines—amber; the pattern,—first row—black; second—scarlet; third—white; fourth—green; fifth—drab.

The fourth stripe is white; the dividing lines—scarlet; the pattern,—first row—green; second—black; third—blue; fourth—scarlet; fifth—green: sixth—lilac; seventh—light green.

Repeat from the first stripe.

This pattern, worked with six-thread fleecy, will be found very easy and effective for a table cover; using a steel or ivory crochet needle, according to the fancy of the worker.

The same pattern, with the colours as above described for the first and second stripes, with No. 1 Crochet Silk, will make an extremely elegant bag. This should be commenced with a chain of about two hundred and sixteen stitches, united at the two ends, whether for a round, or square bag. Gold thread may be substituted in the dividing lines, working only one plain row, instead of two, as in the engraving. Five of the narrow, and four of the wide stripes, will form a bag of an ordinary size.

This pattern may be worked beautifully with chenille, or with chenille and gold, for a variety of purposes.

This pattern is recommended as being exceedingly easy; and, at the same time very pretty. Six-thread fleecy, with an ivory needle.

First stripe.

• Chain and first row—drab.
• Second row—dark crimson.
• Third row—one stitch rose colour; one drab;—alternately.
• Fourth row—bright pink.
• Fifth row—drab.

Second stripe.

• First row—two stitches white;—two black—alternately.
• Second row—two stitches white; two black;—alternately;—commencing with one stitch only of white.

Third stripe.

• First row—bright blue.
• Second row—dark olive drab.
• Third row—one stitch light olive drab; one bright blue;—alternately.
• Fourth row—yellow.
• Fifth row—blue.

Repeat the second stripe, and commence again from the first.

This pattern may be varied, by working the first and third stripes as above directed, with the black and white stripes in double open crochet. It may also be done in either manner with coarse chenille.

The scroll pattern of the border of this design is on a black ground. The ground of each stripe of the Persian pattern for the centre may be varied. Six, or eight thread fleecy, with a steel or ivory needle. Commence with:—

Chain and first row—dark red brown.

Second row—scarlet.

Third row—black.

Fourth row—one stitch light green; one black; five red brown; five black; three brown; two black; two green; two black; three brown; five black; five brown; one black; two green.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Fifth row—one stitch middle green; one orange; four black; two orange; three black; one orange; three black; one orange; four green; one orange; three black; one orange; three black; two orange; four black; one orange; two green.—Repeat.

Sixth row—one stitch orange; two black; two orange; two black; two orange; two black; one orange; one scarlet; two orange; one black; one orange; two dark green; one orange; one black; two scarlet; one black; one orange; two black; two orange; two black; two orange; two black; one orange; one green.—Repeat.

Seventh row—one stitch gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black; three gold colour; one black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black; three gold colour; one black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black.—Repeat.

Eighth row—one stitch gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; two black; two gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black.—Repeat.

Ninth row—one stitch dark blue; one yellow; three black; one yellow; two black; two yellow; two black; two yellow; two black; one yellow; two blue; one yellow; two black; two blue; two black; two yellow; two black; one yellow; three black; one yellow; two blue.—Repeat.

Tenth row—one stitch middle blue; one black; three yellow; four black; two yellow; four black; one yellow; four blue; one yellow; four black; two yellow; four black; three yellow; one black; two blue.—Repeat.

Eleventh row—ten stitches black; five white; two black; two light blue; two black; five white; ten black; one blue.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—black.

Thirteenth row—red brown.

Fourteenth row—scarlet. This finishes the border.

Commence the ground of the centre, or second stripe, with one plain row of white; the colours of the Persian pine pattern on which are as follow:—

First row—three stitches dark green; two white; two green.

Second row—two stitches light scarlet; one white; two scarlet.

Third row—two stitches middle green; three dark scarlet; one white; three scarlet; two green.

Fourth row—four stitches light green; two white; one black; two white; four green.

Fifth row—two stitches light green; three dark blue; one white; three blue; two green.

Sixth row—two stitches light blue; one white; two blue.

Seventh row—two stitches light green; two white; three green.

One plain row of white finishes the stripe. The brown and scarlet rows are again to be worked, when the border may be repeated, alternately with the stripes of the Persian pattern; or, the latter alone may be repeated, with the colour of the ground varied,—the colours of the pattern being also changed, to harmonize with it.—The colours, as above given, are for a white ground.

This pattern is adapted for the border of a table-cover, hearth-rug or stair-carpet. It may be worked in four, six, or eight-thread fleecy, with a steel or ivory needle, according to its appropriation. The colours required are three distinct shades of green, two of scarlet, two of blue, two of gold colour, two of lilac, black, white, and geranium: the proper selection of these constitutes much of the beauty of the pattern:—the geranium colours should be very bright. Commence with:—

Chain and first row—black.

Second row—gold colour.

Third row—black.

Fourth row—two stitches black; one light green; one black; one green; two black; three geranium.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Fifth row—two stitches geranium; one white; one dark green; one white; two geranium; three gold colour.—Repeat.

Sixth row—the same as the fourth.

Seventh row—black.

Eighth row—blue.

The above finishes the narrow border. The ground of the centre border is white; having worked two rows of which, commence the pattern with,—

First row—two stitches white; six dark scarlet; two white; three light green; two white; three green; three white; one scarlet; two white; two scarlet; two white; three green; two white; three green; three white; one scarlet; two white; two scarlet; two white; three green; two white; three green.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second row—one stitch white; two light scarlet; one white; one middle green; four scarlet; two white; three green; one white; two green; two white; four scarlet; one white; three scarlet; two white; three green; one white; two green; two white; four scarlet; one white; three scarlet; two white; three green; one white; two green; one white.—Repeat.

Third row—one stitch white; two dark blue; one white; one dark green; four blue; three white; five green; four white; two blue; one white; three blue; three white; five green; four white; two blue; one white; three blue; three white; five green; one white.—Repeat.

Fourth row—one stitch black; two white; six light blue; ten black; three white; five blue; ten black; three white; five blue; nine black.—Repeat.

Fifth row—one stitch black; eight white.—Repeat.

Sixth row—ten stitches black; three white; five light gold colour; ten black; two white; six gold colour; ten black; three white; five gold colour.—Repeat.

Seventh row—Four stitches white; three dark green; five white; two dark gold colour; one white; three gold colour; four white; three green; three white; two gold colour; one white; one green; four gold colour; four white; three green; five white; two gold colour; one white; three gold colour.—Repeat.

Eighth row—two stitches white; six middle green; two white; four light lilac; one white; three lilac; two white; six green; two white; two lilac; one white; one green; four lilac; two white; six green; two white; four lilac; one white; three lilac.—Repeat.

Ninth row—one stitch white; three light green; three white; two green; three white; one dark lilac; two white; two lilac; two white; three green; three white; two green; two white; six lilac; two white; three green; three white; two green; three white; one lilac; two white; two lilac; one white.—Repeat.

Two rows of white complete the centre border.

Repeat the small border, beginning with the row of blue.

This pattern may be worked with double German wool.

Commence with a chain of about one hundred and ninety stitches in black. Then,—

With three distinct shades of scarlet, crochet a shaded stripe, consisting of five rows,—beginning with the darkest colour,—the lightest forming the centre.—Repeat the black row.

Work a stripe of treble open crochet, consisting of one row of each of the following colours: namely,—chrysophas green, scarlet, white, gold colour, lilac, and chrysophas green.

Repeat the black row.—Form a stripe similar to the first, with shades of white.—Repeat the black row.

Repeat the stripe of treble open crochet.—Repeat the black row.—Crochet another shaded stripe with lilac.—Repeat the black row.—Repeat the stripe of treble open crochet.—Repeat the black row.—Work another shaded stripe with gold colours.—Repeat the black row.—Repeat the stripe of treble open crochet.—Repeat the black row, and the first shaded stripe with scarlet. This forms the centre stripe. Reverse the order of the coloured stripes to complete the pillow.

Commence with two plain rows, the first—gold colour; the second—black. The black forms the ground of the first half stripe.

N. B. The zigzag edges of the riband stripe are every where worked with white.

Third row—twelve stitches of black, one of white,—alternately.

Fourth row—one stitch white; three black; three red brown; two black; two middle green; one black; one white.—Repeat.

Fifth row—three stitches white; one black; three orange; two light green; three black; one white.—Repeat.

Sixth row—three stitches scarlet; two white; three black; three gold colour; one black; one white.—Repeat.

Seventh row—five stitches scarlet; two white; one black; three yellow; one black; one white.—Repeat.

Eighth row—one stitch scarlet; four dark stone colour; two scarlet; two white; three black; one white.—Repeat.

Ninth row—two stitches scarlet; four middle stone colour; three scarlet; four white.—Repeat.

Tenth row—two stitches dark green; three light stone colour; seven scarlet; one black.—Repeat.

Eleventh row—three stitches middle green; ten scarlet.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—five stitches light green; five scarlet; one dark stone colour; one scarlet; one light green.—Repeat.

Thirteenth row—one stitch dark stone colour; one scarlet; four dark green; four scarlet; three dark stone colour.—Repeat.

Fourteenth row—one stitch middle stone colour; two scarlet; three middle green; four scarlet; three middle stone colour.—Repeat.

Fifteenth row—one stitch light stone colour; three scarlet; two light green; five scarlet; two light stone colour.—Repeat.

Sixteenth row—six stitches scarlet; four white; three scarlet.—Repeat.

Seventeenth row—six stitches scarlet; one white; three drab; three white.—Repeat.

Eighteenth row—three stitches white; three scarlet; one white; one drab; four dark lilac; one drab.—Repeat.

Nineteenth row—three stitches drab; four white; two drab; four middle lilac.—Repeat.

Twentieth row—six stitches drab; three dark green; three light lilac; one drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-first row—seven stitches drab; three middle green; three drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-second row—four stitches drab; one dark lilac; one drab; six light green; one drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-third row—Four stitches drab; four dark lilac; one drab; four dark green.—Repeat.

Twenty-fourth row—four stitches drab; four middle lilac; two drab; three middle green.—Repeat.

Twenty-fifth row—five stitches drab; three light lilac; three drab; two light green.—Repeat.

Twenty-sixth row—four stitches white; nine drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-seventh row—one stitch white; three blue; three white; six drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-eighth row—one stitch white; one blue; four claret; one blue; three white; three drab.—Repeat.

Twenty-ninth row—one stitch white; two blue; four dark scarlet; three blue; three white.—Repeat.

Thirtieth row—three stitches dark olive; three scarlet; seven blue.—Repeat.

Thirty-first row—one stitch blue; three middle olive; nine blue.—Repeat.

Thirty-second row—six stitches light olive; five blue; one claret; one blue.—Repeat.

Thirty-third row—two stitches claret; one blue; four dark olive; four blue; two claret.—Repeat.

Thirty-fourth row—two stitches dark scarlet; two blue; three middle olive; four blue; two dark scarlet.—Repeat.

Thirty-fifth row—two stitches scarlet; three blue; two light olive; five blue; one scarlet.—Repeat.

Thirty-sixth row—seven stitches blue; four white; two blue.—Repeat.

Thirty-seventh row—one stitch white; six blue; one white; three scarlet (the ground of the next stripe); two white.—Repeat.

This completes the pattern, which consists of the same sprig repeated in different colours, on three different coloured grounds. It will be perceived that the sprigs run in a diagonal direction; and the commencement of the first two rows of the fourth stripe, on referring to the corresponding part of the previous stripe, will show where the next sprig is to be begun.

If worked for a bag, or sac de voyage, the pattern should be commenced from the bottom, thus forming a border at the lower part; but if a pillow, table cover, or couvre-pied, is intended to be made,—first crochet two plain rows, and then commence the pattern as at the sixteenth row.

For working the larger articles in the above pattern, fleecy may be employed; for the smaller—German wool; and for the more elegant—chenille and gold, or silk and gold.

This is suitable either for a table cover, counterpane, pillow, the tops of large ottomans, the cover for a chair, a rug, or a bedside carpet. Six-thread fleecy and a steel needle will be required. The dividing line is formed of two clarets. The stripes are scarlet, blue, gold colour, and white.

The pattern on the scarlet stripe—two shades of green, lilac, white, brown, and bright yellow.

On the blue stripe—two scarlets, two whites, two gold colours, two dark scarlets.

On the gold coloured stripe—two blues, claret, white, lilac, and green.

On the white stripe—two greens, two scarlets, two blues, brown, and yellow.

Six-thread fleecy with a steel needle.

The pattern of the border is in black,—the ground in shades of gold colour. Commence with a chain of black, and one plain row of the same; then, two plain rows of red brown. In the next row begin the pattern as follows:—

First row—black, with the single stitches of the ground in red brown.

Second and third rows—black and orange.

Fourth, fifth, and sixth rows—black, and gold colour.

Seventh, eighth, and ninth rows—black and yellow. One plain row of straw colour, followed by one plain row of white, complete the border.

Commence the ground of the centre, with one plain row of middle blue. On this blue ground, work the pattern in the following colours:—

First row—dark claret.

Second row—claret.

Third row—claret, with the three centre stitches in white.

Fourth row—middle scarlet.

Fifth row—light scarlet.

Sixth and seventh rows—(forming the second pattern of the centre)—the gold colour and yellow that were used in the ground of the border.

Commence again with the claret, as in the first row of the pattern.

When the square is completed, neatly run in the wools with a rug needle, or tie them close to the work; this will produce a firm edge, on which a fringe may be sewn.

This pattern is very easy, and the effect exceedingly good. It is well adapted for working with chiné wool.

The chain and first row black. The next row alternate stitches of black and chiné wool (say blue). The ground of the first stripe is in blue chiné wool, with the pattern in white. The dividing line black. The ground of the next stripe is worked in scarlet chiné wool, with the pattern in white, except the centre line or wave, which should be black.

Raised, or ribbed crochet is worked in rows from right to left, according to the ordinary method; but the side of the work is reversed at every alternate row, as in plain crochet (see page 14), hence it becomes the same as that description of work, with this exception, that the back, or under stitch, is always to be taken; it has therefore a ribbed or raised appearance, and is rendered thicker and closer, and of a more elastic texture.

The annexed design is well adapted for working in raised crochet. The colour, forming the pattern, should only be introduced when necessary, and should not be carried on through the ground, as in plain double crochet; therefore, the same thread must be taken up and dropt, as the form of the pattern may require—a process by no means difficult. When necessary, however, the idle wool should be carried through the stitches of that in use, and not left loose at the back.

The pattern here given is intended to be worked in stripes; these are afterwards to be sewn together. It is very handsome for quilts, couvre-pieds, &c. The colours may be varied, thus—first stripe, white, with the pattern in scarlet; the second, scarlet, with the pattern in white. Shaded wools may be used for the pattern on a plain ground.

Commence with a chain of black. Work one row in two stitches of black and two of scarlet, alternately. Then, one row of scarlet and one row of black; the latter forms the ground of the border,—the pattern on which is in four shades of gold colour,—two rows of each, commencing with the darkest. One plain row of black, and one of scarlet, finish the border.

Crochet one plain row of white, then one plain row of blue; the latter forms the ground of the centre. The colours of the pine pattern are as follows:

First row—middle scarlet.

Second row—light scarlet.

Third row—three stitches drab; two black; three drab.

Fourth row—three stitches white; two black; three white.

Fifth row—three stitches gold colour; two lilac; three gold colour.

Sixth row—three stitches yellow; two lilac; three yellow.

Seventh row—three stitches middle scarlet; two black; three middle scarlet.

Eighth row—three stitches light scarlet; two black; three light scarlet.

Ninth row—drab.

Tenth row—white.

This pattern may be employed for a tidy, sofa pillow, mat, carpet, cradle, or bed quilt, carriage wrapper, d’oyley, and a variety of other purposes, where a border on each side may be required. It may be worked either in plain double crochet, or in raised crochet. A different material, together with a different sized needle, are the only requisites to adapt it to any of the above purposes. Thus,—

For a sofa pillow, eight-thread zephyr fleecy; for a tidy, three-thread fleecy; for a window mat, eight-thread common fleecy; for a flower mat, German or English wool; for a cradle quilt, eight-thread zephyr fleecy; for a bed quilt, six-thread fleecy; for a d’oyley, rather fine knitting cotton. The size of the article, however, must in the first instance be determined, and the number of stitches counted, so as to bring in the pattern as suited to that size. The simplest colouring will be the most effective,—a plain ground, with the pattern in any bright colour. Designs of this description, which require calculation and constant counting, may be adopted as amusing, but not as very easy work.

Make a chain of fourteen stitches, in claret crochet silk; join both ends together, and crochet one plain row all round. In the next row (in order to keep the circle flat), every other stitch is to be made a seam or dividing stitch, which is done by putting the needle under both loops instead of one, and making two stitches, in the same place, every other stitch being a plain stitch. In the next row, work the seam-stitch in the same place, leaving two plain stitches between each, instead of one. Repeat this circle sixteen times, always observing to keep the seam stitch in the same place, the number of plain stitches gradually increasing, when a flat surface of about four inches in diameter will be produced, intersected with seven raised stripes. A vandyke border in claret and green may now be made as follows.

First row—five stitches claret; one green.

Second row—three stitches claret; three green.

Third row—one stitch claret; five green.

Fourth row—green.

The annexed pattern may then be worked in green on the claret ground.

When within five rows of the top of the bag, work one plain row of the ground, repeat the vandyke, and work two plain rows of the claret ground.

This bag is very pretty and delicate worked in white and gold, and in blue and gold; it may also be varied in colour as taste may dictate. The pattern looks extremely well in steel beads.

Make a chain of fourteen stitches, join both ends together with the crochet, and crochet one plain row all round. In the next row, every other stitch is to be made a seam or dividing stitch, which is done by putting the needle under both loops, instead of under one, and making two stitches in the same place: every other stitch being a plain stitch, on which is to be a bead. In the next row, work the seam stitch exactly over the last, which will leave two plain stitches between, instead of one; this is to be repeated until eight circles are formed, every plain stitch having a bead on it. Crochet eight rows more, leaving the seam-stitch in the same place, but diminish the number of beads, by leaving out one bead in each division on each successive circle, so that the last row will have but one bead in each division. Then, crochet four plain rows, keeping the seam-stitch in the same place as before, then one plain row all round, without a seam-stitch, which forms the bottom of the bag.

This bag is worked in plain stitch double crochet, with crochet silk, and gold of the same size. A steel needle, with twenty-five yards of gold cord, and about twelve skeins of silk, will be required. The colours of the silk are claret, three shades of green, and black.

Commence with a chain of nine stitches, in claret; unite the ends, and crochet one plain row,—increasing on every stitch. Join on the black silk, and work one stitch of black, and two of claret,—alternately,—increasing with the black stitch. There should now be twenty-seven stitches. Work another row the same, but without increasing. In the next row, (the third, with two colours)—two stitches black, two claret,—alternately—increasing with the black stitches. The two stitches of claret are to be repeated over each other (so as to form a star) in each of the nine following rows.

Fourth and fifth rows—claret and black,—increasing one stitch on every two stitches of the claret.

Sixth, seventh, eighth, and ninth rows—claret and dark green,—increasing one stitch, as before.

Tenth row—claret, and middle green, increasing one stitch, as before.

Eleventh row—one stitch gold; four middle green,—increasing one stitch; two gold; two green; one gold; two claret.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—two stitches gold; two middle green; three gold; two green; one gold; two claret.—Repeat.

Thirteenth row—two stitches gold; three middle green; one gold; three green; two gold,—increasing on the gold stitches; two claret.—Repeat.

Fourteenth row—one stitch claret; two gold; five light green; two gold; five claret,—increasing on the third stitch.—Repeat from the first two gold stitches.

Fifteenth row—one stitch claret; two gold; three light green; two gold; eight claret,—increasing on the third stitch.—Repeat from the first two gold stitches.

Sixteenth row—one stitch claret; five gold; five claret,—increasing on the third stitch; one gold; five claret.—Repeat from the five gold stitches.

Seventeenth row—one stitch claret; three gold; five claret; three gold; six claret,—increasing on the second stitch.—Repeat from the first three gold stitches.

Eighteenth row—one stitch claret; one gold; three claret,—increasing on the second stitch; two dark green; two claret; three gold; two claret; two green; three claret.—Repeat from the first gold stitch.

Nineteenth row—four stitches claret; two middle green; two gold; one claret; one gold; one claret; two gold; two green; seven claret.—Repeat from the first two green stitches.

Twentieth row—one stitch claret; two light green; two claret; one gold; two claret; two green; nine claret, without increasing.—Repeat from the first two green stitches.

Twenty-first row—two stitches claret; five dark green; fourteen claret.—Repeat from the five green stitches.

Twenty-second row—one stitch claret; three middle green; fifteen claret.—Repeat from the three green stitches.

The bottom, and the first row of sprigs are now completed,—the bag being at its full diameter. In the next row the sprigs are to be commenced again.

The pattern on this bag is in white and gold,—the ground being of a rich Waterloo blue. It should be worked with middle-sized crochet silk. The above scroll pattern will be repeated nine times, on a bag of the usual size. Commence with a chain of one hundred and eighty stitches.

Chain, and first row,—Waterloo blue.

Second row—white.

Third row—Waterloo blue.

Fourth row—gold.

Fifth row—two stitches gold, two blue,—alternately.

Sixth row—one stitch gold, three blue—alternately.

Work one row of blue, and commence the scroll pattern as follows:—

First row—two stitches blue; six gold; four blue; three white; five blue.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Second row—one stitch blue; one gold; three blue; two gold; three white; one blue; two gold; seven blue.—Repeat.

Third row—one stitch gold; five blue; three gold; two white; three blue; three white; three blue.—Repeat.

Fourth row—one stitch gold; one blue; three gold; two blue; three gold; two white; one blue; three gold; four blue.—Repeat.

Fifth row—one stitch gold; one blue; one gold; two white; one gold; one blue; four gold; two white; three blue; three white; one blue.—Repeat.

Sixth row—one stitch gold; two blue; three gold; one blue; five gold; two white; one blue; three gold; two blue.—Repeat.

Seventh row—one stitch blue; one gold; three blue; one gold; two blue; two gold; one blue; two gold; two white; three blue; two white.—Repeat.

Eighth row—two stitches blue; four gold; three blue; one gold; one blue; two gold; one blue; one gold; two white; two gold; one blue.—Repeat.

Ninth row—four stitches blue; one gold; seven blue; one gold; one blue; three gold; one white; two blue.—Repeat.

Tenth row—three stitches white; one gold; eleven blue; three gold; two white.—Repeat.

Eleventh row—three stitches gold; fourteen blue; three gold.—Repeat.

The above cachemir pattern may be taken for the upper part of the bag,—being worked in white and gold.

The most elegant colouring for this bag will be four shades, from black, of any pretty écru; mixed with either blue, violet, scarlet, or green, in an equal number of shades.

Commence with a chain of two hundred and forty stitches in fine netting silk;—work two plain rows of open crochet, and join them together at both their edges: this will form a pretty finish for the bottom of the bag. Crochet one plain row of black.

The above pattern is now to be worked.—Commence with the gold, to form a half row of diamonds, by crocheting one plain row. In the next row,—three stitches gold, one black,—alternately;—in the next row,—one stitch gold, three black,—alternately. The next row is black,—forming the centre row, of the first perfect row of diamonds.

The next row of diamonds,—formed of the darkest shade of écru, is commenced as the preceding,—one stitch écru; three black; in the next row,—three stitches écru; one black.

This finishes the first complete row of diamonds in black. The next row is plain écru,—forming the centre row of the second perfect row of diamonds. The third row of diamonds is to be a middle shade of écru; the fourth—the lightest shade of écru.

Repeat one row of diamonds in gold, and commence another stripe of diamonds with any of the before-mentioned colours, beginning with black; then the darkest shade; then the middle; and lastly, the lightest.

Repeat the one row of diamonds in gold, and commence again with the stripe in shades of écru.

Commence with a chain of four stitches in blue; having united the ends, crochet three rows,—increasing on every stitch, in the first and second rows; and on every other stitch in the third row, which should count twenty-four stitches.

Fourth row—join on the claret; work one stitch claret, one blue,—alternately.

Fifth row—two stitches claret; one blue—alternately,—increasing on the claret stitches.

Sixth row—two stitches claret; two blue,—increasing on the blue stitches.

Seventh row—two stitches claret; three blue,—increasing on the second stitch of blue.

Eighth row—two stitches claret; four blue,—increasing on the second stitch of blue.

Ninth row—two stitches claret; five blue,—increasing on the second stitch of blue.

Tenth row—two stitches claret; six blue,—increasing on the third stitch of blue.

Eleventh and twelfth rows—two stitches claret; six blue,—without increasing.

Thirteenth row—two stitches claret; seven blue,—increasing on the third stitch of blue.

Fourteenth row—one stitch claret; five blue; five claret,—increasing on the second stitch; five blue; four claret,—without increasing.—Repeat from the first five stitches of blue.

Fifteenth row—one stitch claret; three blue; seven claret; three blue; seven claret,—increasing on the third stitch.—Repeat from the first three blue stitches.

Sixteenth row—one stitch claret; one blue; ten claret,—increasing on the fourth stitch.—Repeat from the first blue stitch.

Seventeenth and eighteenth rows—claret,—without increasing.

Nineteenth row—claret,—increasing one stitch on every thirty-third. This row should contain one hundred and thirty-six stitches, when the bag will have acquired its full size, and the increasing be finished.

The next three rows are worked in four stitches of gold, and four of claret,—alternately. Then, four plain rows, viz.—one of gold; one of black; one of white; and one of gold;—followed by one row of blue, and one row of white, in double open crochet; then, one row of gold, one row of black, and one row of gold, in plain crochet. Repeat the two rows of double open crochet,—the first in blue, the second in claret;—also the one row of gold; the one row of black; and the one row of gold. Commence again with the rows of blue and white, in double open crochet.

There should be four divisions of double open crochet, the bag being finished with the black and gold stripe.

Make a chain of six loops, in fine blue chenille, and unite both ends. Crochet in rows,—to form a round (increasing a sufficient number of stitches in each row to keep the work flat), until fourteen rows are finished. This forms the bottom of the bag.

Commence a vandyke pattern, by making one stitch of gold to every fifth of the coloured ground, in the first row. In the next row three stitches of gold, and three of the ground; in the next, five of the gold, and one of the ground. The two next rows are to be plain—the first of gold, the second of black.

Work two rows of open crochet,—the one in scarlet, the other in blue.

The two rows of black, with one row of gold between, are then to be worked in plain crochet; followed by two rows of open crochet,—the first white, the second blue. Repeat the two rows of black, with the gold between, and the two rows of open crochet,—alternately, to complete the bag.

About sixteen skeins of chenille, and twenty-four yards of gold cord, will be required.

Commence at the top with a chain of fourteen stitches, unite the ends, and crochet one plain row. In the next row, make a raised or dividing line on every other stitch, as for the bottoms of bags. The increasing must be continued until the diameter of the circle is about six inches and a half. Work round this, in plain rows, until the cap be sufficiently deep; occasional increasing stitches may be made, if it be not large enough.

The cap should be finished with a double gold braid,—meeting the points of the increasing lines: a gold band round the bottom, and a handsome tassel at the top may be added; or in the place of these, silk trimmings may be substituted. It requires to be very neatly made up in the inside.

Commence at the top with a chain of six or eight stitches; unite the ends, and work in rows round and round, (increasing a sufficient number of stitches in each row to keep the work flat,) until it be about eight inches in diameter. The sides may be worked in open crochet, introducing a few plain lines of black and gold between each two rows of the open crochet.

The best colours for a cap in chenille are black and gold;—dark blue, black, and gold;—and claret, black, and gold.

Commence with a chain of about six stitches in plain green netting silk; crochet both ends together; work three plain rows of green, and then one row of alternate stitches of dark scarlet and green.

The scarlet silk will now form the ground, on which the star pattern of green is to be worked. Crochet a row with two stitches of green, and two of scarlet, alternately; in the next row, two of scarlet and three of green. Crochet, in a similar manner, one row after another, increasing on each row one stitch in the green pattern, every time that colour is repeated, until it counts seven stitches in each division; taking care to keep the two scarlet stitches of the ground exactly over each other.

The pattern is now to be decreased, by working four stitches of scarlet and five of green; in the next row,—seven of scarlet and three of green; and in the next,—ten of scarlet and one of green;—increasing one stitch in each division of the ground.

Work two plain rows of scarlet, increasing a sufficient number of stitches to keep the work flat, and finish with a kind of fringe, formed by two rows of open crochet in green.

The chain is made by commencing with five plain stitches, then putting the needle through the back of the second stitch, and making one plain stitch. It will be found, by twisting the chain after every stitch, that one stitch appears to go across,—this is the stitch that is always to be taken and crocheted.

The light-coloured stripes composing this slipper, are alternately buff and white: the dark stripe between each is a full blue. Each stripe is separated by a dividing line of black. The colours of the pattern on each stripe, are as follow:—

Commence at the toe with the blue stripe,—the colours of the pattern being claret, gold colour, and scarlet.

The second stripe is buff,—the colours of the pattern being dark blue, lilac, scarlet, and green.

Repeat the blue stripe.

The fourth stripe is white,—the colours of the pattern being violet, lilac, green, and scarlet.

This slipper may be worked in crochet silk, or German wool. The number of stripes must depend on the required size of the slipper.

The above pattern is intended for a slipper, in German wool, or crochet silk, in stripes, across the front, continued in the same direction round the back. The colours of the different stripes,—commencing at the toe, are as follow:—

First stripe—gold colour; with the pattern composed of black, green, white, bright scarlet, and black.

Second stripe—blue; the pattern in scarlet, black, gold colour, white, and claret.

Third stripe—(the centre of the engraving) scarlet; this stripe is wider than any other on the slipper. The pattern on it is composed of light green, dark green, black, light blue, and gold colour, dark blue and claret, black, gold colour and lilac, white and dark lilac, light green, and dark green.

Fourth stripe—white; the pattern in blue, yellow, lilac, green, and scarlet.

The narrow stripes are repeated round the back of the slipper; they are gold colour, blue, scarlet, white, and green.

For a moderate-sized gentleman’s slipper in crochet silk, the toe might be commenced with twenty-four stitches, and increased in the succeeding rows, until the width across the instep were eighty stitches,—but, as some persons work so much tighter than others, a positive number cannot be given. The silk also may vary in size, as well as the dimensions required for a slipper. The increasing is made by the addition of a stitch on each side of the work.

The stripes in the front of the slipper are gold colour, blue, scarlet, and white; the latter crosses the instep. Count the number of stitches on the white stripe, and, with the gold colour commence a stripe one third of its length on one side, to form the back. Continue these stripes, until the back be sufficiently long to be sewn to the front on the other side. It is advisable, before commencing a slipper, to cut a paper pattern of the desired size and shape.

The above form chaussons to wear over the shoes, the sole being formed of coarse crochet in black; or they may be made up in the usual way for slippers, either for ladies or gentlemen. In crochet silk they are extremely warm and durable.—The ends of the wool or silk, are to be threaded with a needle, and run into the work on the inside.

Plain crochet-purses are exceedingly strong, and may be made very prettily with a moderate sized netting silk. Those, worked in rows the length of the purse, are the most easily made.

Make a chain in scarlet netting silk of one hundred and forty stitches, on which crochet three plain rows with the same colour. Then, five plain rows in shades of green, or stone colour. These two stripes are to be repeated until the purse is of a sufficient width. When completed, it is to be neatly sewn up, or joined by crocheting the two sides together. The ends are then to be drawn up, and the purse trimmed.

Commence with a chain of fourteen stitches, and joining both ends together, crochet one plain row all round. In the next row, every alternate stitch is to be made a dividing or seam-stitch; this is done by passing the needle under both the corresponding loops in the first row, and making two stitches in the same place. This dividing stitch is to be repeated in the same place on each row, until ten rows are worked; when a sufficient number of plain rows are to be crocheted according to the length of the purse, until the side opening commences.

The opening of the purse is made by crocheting plain rows, alternately, from right to left, and from left to right. When a sufficient number of these are done:—

The plain rows are again to be worked, to correspond with the former part; but, instead of the round end, it is to be left square, and sewn up, with a tassel at either corner.

Make a chain of one hundred and sixty, or one hundred and seventy stitches; to the last stitch of this, crochet a short chain of five stitches, the last of which is again to be crocheted to the fifth stitch of the chain; repeat this on the whole length of the foundation; and return along the row in the same way, by attaching every fifth stitch to the centre stitch of each loop of the last row. The whole of the purse is to be continued in the same manner, but it may be varied, according to taste, by using two or more colours. When the purse is worked to the size desired, cut a piece of stiff cardboard, and sew the purse firmly to it,—the wrong side outwards; then, damp it with water, and allow it to remain until dry. This process will stretch the purse, tighten the stitches, and bring them all into their proper places. Then, having sewn or crocheted up the sides, draw up the ends and put on the trimmings.—This purse should only be made with fine silk.

The pattern No. 1 (page 16) represents this stitch.

Commence with a chain of one hundred and eighty stitches in fine white netting silk.

Second row—gold.

Third row—white.

Crochet eleven rows with bright violet silk, with the above pattern in gold.

Fifteenth row—white.

Sixteenth row—gold.

Seventeenth row—white.

Work three rows of treble open crochet with gold. The above, worked four times, will complete the purse. It is advisable to omit one of the circular figures, in the centre of each stripe; and also, to reverse the direction of the pattern at the opposite end of the purse.

Ponceau, blue, or green, may be substituted for the violet silk.

This pattern may also be effectively worked in any two decided colours, either with zephyr, or six-thread fleecy, for sofa pillows, tidies, etc.

Commence at the bottom with a chain of fourteen stitches; unite both ends, and work round and round, increasing by means of dividing lines, until a flat circle of about two inches in diameter be formed. On this, work plain rows until the purse be about three inches in length. It must then be exactly divided, and each side worked backwards and forwards, for about eight rows, or whatever is sufficient for the depth of the snap.

The annexed pine pattern, and the usual vandyke, are suitable for short purses. About one hundred and twenty stitches will form a good-sized purse.

Commence with one row of open crochet, in gold-coloured silk; work a row of plain crochet, every two stitches alternately blue and gold colour; then, one row of plain blue.

The next, or fourth row—is formed alternately, of two stitches of scarlet, and five of blue.

Fifth row—four blue, five white, alternately.

Sixth row—four blue; four stone colour.

Seventh row—five stitches blue; two pink.

Repeat the row of plain blue; then, one row, alternately two stitches of blue and two of gold colour, and commence again with the open crochet.

Commence with one row of open crochet, the length of the purse, in fine white netting silk. Then, one row of plain crochet, in alternate stitches, of white and full blue, or white and ponceau.

Work the above pattern in gold, on the blue, or ponceau, ground. Then, three rows of open crochet in white; and repeat the pattern and open crochet alternately.

When the purse is finished, it will be found that there are only two rows of open crochet where it is joined, but this cannot be avoided.

The same pattern may also be worked in gold or steel beads, but it will then be advisable to omit the pattern in the centre of the purse. An additional colour may be introduced, with very good effect, on the ground between the beads. In a moderate-sized purse, the pattern will be repeated seven times in the length. A few plain stitches at the top and bottom of the purse will be desirable.

Commence with a chain of one hundred stitches, in dark green netting silk, and work one plain row; then, crochet five rows with steel beads, to form the first stripe of the pattern.

Work one plain row of white. Then, on the white ground, crochet the second stripe of the pattern, with gold beads. Work one plain row of white.

The third stripe is green,—the lower division of the pattern is in steel beads, the upper, in gold beads.

The fourth stripe is white, the pattern in steel beads, with one plain row of white at top and bottom.

Commence again with the green, and having worked the five rows of the pattern with gold beads, finish with twenty plain rows of green.

Make a star bottom with steel beads (as directed page 65), and fine netting silk of a dark emerald green. Work three rows of open crochet in a light green—then, either of the annexed patterns, in steel beads, on a ponceau ground.

Work two more rows of open crochet in light green. Repeat the pattern with steel beads, and work two more rows of open crochet. This completes one end of the purse.

The centre is to be in plain crochet.

Make a chain of one hundred and seventy stitches, in reel silk. To the commencement of this chain, crochet another short chain (as in plain stitch open crochet), of three stitches, the third stitch of which pass through the fourth stitch of the chain, and work three plain stitches. Crochet another chain of three stitches, and pass the last stitch, as before, through the fourth stitch of the chain. This is to be repeated to the end of the row.

All the succeeding rows are the same, except that the plain stitches of the next row are always one stitch in advance of the preceding.

Spiral crochet may be varied by working five, or seven stitches, instead of three, as above directed. Most elegant purses and bags may thus be made, by the introduction of gold, and using the silk in shades.

Commence with one row of open crochet, in fine netting silk, of a dead gold colour. Work one row of plain crochet in black, and five rows in blue; on the latter, the above sprig pattern may be worked in gold, or steel beads. One plain row of black completes the stripe.

Work two rows of open crochet in the gold colour. Then,—

Seven rows of black, with the Grecian border in ponceau, on the same, to form a second stripe.

Repeat the two rows of open crochet in gold colour, and commence again, with the blue stripe, as before.

The purse should be about nine inches in length. It will take three skeins of blue silk, two of gold colour, one of black, and one of ponceau. The silk should be fine.

Work one row the length of the purse, in treble open crochet, with fine white netting silk. Then—two rows of plain crochet, in ponceau.

Crochet thirteen rows in white, with the above pattern in gold passing.

Repeat the two rows of ponceau;—then three rows of treble open crochet,—the first in white; the second in ponceau; the third in white.

Repeat the pattern, etc., and when the purse is of a sufficient width, finish with one row of treble open crochet in white.

Crochet up the two sides, with ponceau, to the opening. Then, work one plain row in ponceau, round the opening, to strengthen the purse, and give it uniformity.

If intended for ordinary use, the colours may be changed to blue and claret.

Commence with a chain of six stitches, in black eight-thread fleecy. Unite both ends. Crochet all round, increasing on every stitch, for the first row.

The pattern may be formed in three shades of scarlet, on a blue ground of three shades; the darkest shade of the scarlet being on the lightest shade of the blue.

Second row—one stitch of dark scarlet, and two stitches of light blue, alternately;—forming the commencement of a star of six points.

Third row—three stitches of the dark scarlet, and two of the blue.

Fourth row—five stitches of a lighter shade of scarlet, and two of the blue.

Fifth row—five stitches of the lighter scarlet, and three of the second shade of blue.

Sixth row—three stitches of the lightest scarlet, and six of the second blue.

Seventh row—one stitch of the lightest scarlet, and eight of the darkest blue.

Eighth row—one plain row of the darkest blue.

Three plain rows of black, will finish the D’Oyley.

In every row, increasing stitches are to be made in the blue; and also, in the plain rows of black.

Four-thread fleecy with a steel needle.

It is impossible to give the exact number of stitches for the commencement of a chancelière, as each row varies; it is advisable, therefore, to cut the shape in stiff paper, as a pattern,—first of the top, and then of the border. In those parts where it is requisite to increase the width of the work, it should be done by making an extra stitch on each side. The stitches of the border are to be worked in a contrary direction to those of the top, as shown in the preceding engraving.—The following pattern will be found suitable for a chancelière.

Commence at the toe, by working two plain rows of ground in scarlet, and crochet the centre stripe of the annexed pattern in rich green, on the same coloured ground.

The ground of the next stripe is black, on which the pattern is to be worked in three shades of gold colour.

Work a plain row of middle blue, which also forms the ground of the small chain pattern, with the exception of the centre row, which is claret. The chain is in white.

Work a plain row of claret, and then repeat the second stripe as before, with the colours reversed.

The above colours, if well chosen, are exceedingly pretty, but they may be varied according to fancy.

The slipper pattern No. 23, and also the Turkish pattern No. 12, are equally adapted for a chancelière.

The chancelière should be made up on a very firm foundation, and stuffed between the lining and the work with wool: the inside should be made separate, and knitted in the brioche stitch, with six or eight thread fleecy. The ermine ruff, or trimming, of worsted, may easily be procured, but if it cannot readily be so, a thick knitted fringe, three or four times doubled, will be a good substitute. The bottom is formed of leather or cloth.

The annexed pattern is adapted for any square requiring a border, such as a table cover, mat, quilt, sofa cushion, couvre-pied, etc. To render it easy, the centre may be worked in the same colours as the border, introducing any spot, sprig, or other small pattern,—the same colours being carried through the whole, or slipped at the back. If, however, the plan of introducing the colour only in the pattern be understood, it may here be employed with advantage.

The ground of the pattern might be in a self colour,—say white, with the pattern in scarlet; or, the ground might be in five shades of scarlet, the pattern being crocheted in emerald green, blue, white, or black, according to taste, or the purpose for which the work was designed. The whole of the pattern might also be worked in chiné or shaded wool.

The kind of wool to be used must be adapted to the purpose for which the work is required; thus,—for a quilt or couvre-pied, six-thread fleecy—for a mat, eight thread common fleecy;—for a table mat, German wool; for a baby’s quilt, or a sofa pillow, eight thread zephyr fleecy.

For the centre of the design, either the preceding sprig pattern, or the patterns Nos. 20 or 39, may be taken. If the ground be worked in shades, five shades of any colour, neither too distinct, nor too dark, should be selected.

This border is well adapted for ribbed or raised crochet, as described at page 57.

Commence with a chain and one row of black. Crochet four plain rows,—one white, one light green, one white, one black. The latter forms the ground of the border,—the pattern on which is in three shades of scarlet—two rows of each, beginning with the darkest. One plain row of black finishes the border.

Work six plain rows:—the first, green; the second, white; the third, green; the fourth, black; the fifth, white; the sixth, scarlet.

The ground of the centre may be gold colour, commencing with one plain row,—the colours of the pine pattern on which are as follow:—

First row—middle blue.

Second row—light blue.

Third row—dark scarlet.

Fourth row—light scarlet.

Fifth row—four stitches middle green; three white; four middle green.

Sixth row—four stitches light green; three white; four light green.

Seventh row—three stitches lilac; two black; three lilac.

Eighth row—four stitches light lilac; two black; four light lilac.

Ninth row—middle green.

Tenth row—light green.

Eleventh row—dark scarlet.

Twelfth row—light scarlet.

The chain and first row—black.

Second row—scarlet.

Third row—white.

Fourth row—bright blue, which continues through the next three rows, forming the outer ground of the border. The pattern of the border is in shades of scarlet.

Fifth and sixth rows—blue, and dark scarlet.

Seventh row—blue, bright scarlet, and drab—the latter forming the inner ground of the border.

Eighth row—bright scarlet and drab. The single stitch at the top of the blue ground being white.

Ninth and tenth rows—light scarlet, and drab.

Eleventh row—drab, which also forms the ground of the centre.

The colours for the small pine pattern in the centre, are,—black, two shades of blue, and white.

In the next, or reversed row of the pattern, the colours may be varied as follow:—black, two shades of scarlet, and white.

Commence with chain and first row,—bright green.

Second row—scarlet.

Third row—green.

Fourth, fifth, and sixth rows—treble open crochet, with gold.

Seventh, eighth, and ninth rows—repeat the first, second, and third rows. Then,—crochet a stripe, consisting of eleven rows, with the above pattern, in dead gold colour, on a violet ground. As these stripes range perpendicularly, the position of the scrolls in the pattern should be reversed at the bottom of the bag, in order that they may appear the same on either side.

This bag may be worked in various combinations of colour; it is very pretty if the pattern be worked in shaded, or chiné, silk, and the stripes alternately in two different colours.

It may be as well to observe, that the plain line on either side of the scroll, as shown in this, as in many other patterns, may be advantageously omitted. It has therefore not been noticed in the preceding directions.

The above sprig pattern will be found useful for bags, and a variety of other purposes. It may be worked in two shades of green, and three of pink, as follows:—

First row—first stitch dark green; second, light green.

Second row—one stitch light green: two dark green;—two light green; one dark green;—three dark green.

Third row—two stitches light green; three dark green;—two light green; two dark green.

Fourth row—three stitches light green; two dark green;—two dark green.

Fifth row—four stitches light green; one dark green;—one dark green;—two dark green.

Sixth row—dark green.

Seventh row—three stitches dark pink; one dark green;—one dark green; two dark green.

Eighth row—three stitches dark pink; one dark green; one middle pink;—one light green.

Ninth row—three stitches dark pink; three middle pink;—one light green.

Tenth row—one stitch dark green;—three middle pink;—two light green.

Eleventh row—three stitches light pink; three middle pink;—three light green.

Twelfth row—three stitches light pink;—two light green.

Thirteenth and fourteenth rows—light pink.

The above pattern may be worked in German wool, or crochet silk. If an useful and durable bag be desired, the following colours will be found to work well on a black ground.—Commence with a chain and two rows of black. Crochet the border pattern as follows:—

First row—one stitch scarlet; four black; two middle green; three black; one scarlet.—Repeat.

Second row—three stitches scarlet; two black; two light green; one black; two lilac; one black.—Repeat.

Third row—one stitch black; three scarlet; four black; two white; one black.—Repeat.

Fourth row—one stitch black; three scarlet; two black; two lilac; three black.—Repeat.

Fifth row—two stitches black; three scarlet; one black; two white; one black; two middle green.—Repeat.

Sixth row—four stitches black; two scarlet; three black; two light green.—Repeat.

Crochet one plain row of black. Work the sprig pattern in the same colours as the border,—arranging them in the following order: first row,—scarlet; second,—middle green; third,—light green; fourth,—lilac; fifth,—white.

If German wool be used, the white may be worked with floss silk.

Commence with a chain and one plain row of black. Work two plain rows of scarlet, and in the next row, commence the pattern of the first border in black. The outer ground of the border is scarlet,—the inner ground of the border is white. Three wools are worked at the same time.

Work one plain row of white between the two border patterns.

The second border pattern is in two shades of blue—the first two rows being on the former white ground, the three last on the black ground, which composes the centre. Commence the centre with,—

Two plain rows of black. Then on the black ground, commence the palm pattern as follows:—

First row—middle green.

Second row—bright green.

Third row—bright scarlet.

Fourth row—scarlet, the centre stitch white.

Fifth row—three stitches blue; two white; two blue.

Sixth row—blue.

Seventh row—gold colour.

Eighth row—yellow.

This pattern requires three different coloured wools in many of the rows. It is very handsome. The side border may be crocheted on.

Six-thread fleecy, and a steel needle, should be used.

A Brioche (so called from its resemblance in shape to the well known French cake of that name), may be as easily worked in crochet as in knitting. It may also be divided into stripes or compartments, gradually decreasing in breadth towards the top or centre of the cushion, in the same manner as in the knitted brioche. Various patterns may be introduced in these stripes, but, when a very soft cushion is desired, this is not advisable, as the extra wool, then required to be carried through the work, would render it of too firm a texture.

The following directions for working a brioche in crochet will be found very simple, and, at the same time, serve as a guide for those of a more complicated nature.

Commence with a chain of seventy stitches in eight-thread zephyr fleecy—black.

First row—black.

Second row—gold colour.

Third row—black.

The above three rows are all of an equal length. Then, crochet fifteen rows in any pretty colour, omitting four stitches at the end of the first, and of each successive row, so that in the last of these fifteen rows there will be only ten stitches.

Repeat the row of black, taking in each of the four stitches omitted at the ends of the last fifteen rows, as also the four stitches at the top of the last row of black. Crochet one row of gold colour, and one row of black, as at the commencement, when one compartment of the brioche will be completed, forming a conical stripe.

Repeat the fifteen rows, omitting the four stitches at the end of each row, as before directed; and continue as above until sixteen similar compartments are worked; this will be found sufficient for an ordinary-sized brioche.

The colours of the stripes may be varied, thus,—blue, brown, scarlet, and stone colour, in their order of succession, repeated four times, will form a very pretty contrast,—the dividing stripe between each being formed of two rows of black, with a row of gold between them. Either chiné or ombré wool may also be employed.

When finished, the brioche may be made up either entirely soft, or with a stiff bottom of mill-board, about six or eight inches in diameter, covered with cloth or velvet. The top should be drawn together, and fastened in the centre, either with a tuft of soft wool, or with a cord and tassels, as represented in the preceding engraving. It should be stuffed with down or fine combed wool.

The above pattern will be found very easy to work, in perpendicular stripes, for a bag, the stripes being divided by two rows of treble open crochet in gold. Each side of the bag is formed of four stripes of the above pattern, and five stripes of the treble open crochet; but, as the latter should form the outer edge at the side of the bag, and cannot be worked without a foundation, it will be necessary to begin with the figured stripe in silk, and afterwards to open the treble open crochet in gold on either side of it.—Therefore,

Commence with a chain in dark green netting silk.—The number of stitches must depend on the size of the silk employed, but a chain of about twelve inches in length will be found sufficient for a bag of this description. The bag should be worked in one length.

First row—dark green.

Second row—two stitches of ponceau, and two of dark green, alternately.

Third row—ponceau.

In the fourth row the pattern commences with two colours, the wave portion of the pattern being in dark green; with the bell in a lighter shade of green; the ground, ponceau: or, the pattern may be worked in chiné greens.

Eight rows complete the pattern, when a plain row of ponceau, a row of two alternate stitches of ponceau and green, and a plain row of green, finish the stripe.

Crochet two rows of treble open crochet in gold; and commence again with the pattern in silk.

This bag when completed is about six inches square; it should be hemmed at the top, and lined, and finished with strings and tassels.

The pattern No. 24, is also equally adapted for a bag of this description; but in the centre of the work the pattern should be reversed, in order that when the two sides of the bag are folded together the pattern may run in the same direction, as in the manner described for the bag at page 113.

A very easy but extremely elegant bag in perpendicular stripes may be made by commencing with—

Chain and first row—scarlet.

Second row—gold.

Crochet eleven plain rows in scarlet.

Fourteenth row—gold.

Fifteenth row—scarlet.

On each side of the band thus made, crochet two rows of treble open crochet in gold.

Four plain scarlet stripes, and five of the open crochet, arranged as in the preceding example, complete the bag.

Commence with a chain of eight stitches: having united the ends, make every other stitch a treble increased stitch,—by crocheting three stitches in one loop. Continue to increase in a similar manner, until twenty-eight rows be worked, taking care that the increasing stitches be kept exactly over each other; when a point in the centre, and a point at the termination of each line of dividing stitches, will be formed. The remaining part of the bag is to be worked in rounds, until it be of sufficient height.

The prettiest way of working this description of bag, is with steel or gold beads.

The following pine pattern may be taken for the centre of each division of points.

The upper part of the bag may be semé, with a pattern composed of beads, such as the following.

The top may be finished with three plain rows of crochet; or with any small border pattern in beads, similar to those figured beneath: but for this purpose there are several others, in various parts of the book, equally appropriate, and that may be selected according to the taste of the worker.

This bag should be worked in one long piece, and afterwards folded together, so that the rows range perpendicularly; in the same manner as that described at page 123.

Commence with a chain in ponceau.

• First row—gold.
• Second row—deep blue.
• Third row—ponceau.
• Fourth row—deep blue.
• Fifth row—gold.
• Sixth row—ponceau.
• Seventh row—black.
• Eighth row—ponceau.

treble open crochet.

Repeat from the first row, until the bag be of a sufficient breadth.

Open crochet, as also double and treble open crochet, have already been fully described (see page 16). The two following patterns are, amongst numerous others of a like description, merely variations of a similar kind of work:

It is therefore unnecessary to enter into a detailed description of these, as it would occupy too great a space, and the engravings sufficiently explain themselves. These patterns are useful for a variety of purposes, particularly for working with cotton, for tidies, D’Oyleys, etc.

The two circular ends should be worked first. Commence with a chain of six stitches, in black four-thread fleecy: unite both ends, and crochet all round, increasing on every stitch for the first row.

The pattern is then to be worked in three shades of scarlet, on a ground composed of three shades of green; the darkest shade of the scarlet being on the lightest shade of the green.

Second row—one stitch dark scarlet; two light green.—Repeat.—This forms the commencement of a star of six points.

Third row—three stitches dark scarlet; two light green.—Repeat.

Fourth row—five stitches middle scarlet; two light green.—Repeat.

Fifth row—five stitches middle scarlet; three middle green.—Repeat.

Sixth row—three stitches light scarlet; six middle green.—Repeat.

Seventh row—one stitch light scarlet; eight dark green.—Repeat.

Eighth row—dark green.

Two plain rows of black finish the end.

N. B. In every row, increasing stitches are to be made in the green, as also on the plain rows of black.

Having finished the two ends, make a chain of about sixteen inches in length, in black; and work the other part of the bolster as follows:—

First row—black.

Second row—dark green.

Third row—middle green.

Fourth row—light green.

Fifth row—white.

Repeat the first four rows—reversed.

Tenth and Eleventh rows—scarlet.

Twelfth row—commence a pattern, by working alternately six stitches of scarlet and four of black.

Thirteenth row—seven stitches scarlet (a); four yellow; six scarlet.—Repeat from (a).

Fourteenth row—six stitches scarlet; four black.—Repeat.

Fifteenth row—seven stitches scarlet; (b) four light green; six scarlet.—Repeat from (b).

Sixteenth and Seventeenth rows—scarlet.

Commence again as at first row; and repeat, until a piece be worked sufficiently long to go easily round the ends.

The bolster should be made up by stuffing it with down or soft wool. A long crochet band, worked similar to the green shaded stripe, should be attached to either end, with a small worsted tuft in the centre, by way of ornament.

Bags, worked in a similar manner to the above, are frequently made; these, however, are not required to be so long. They are fastened at the opening with strings or buttons. They may be made with eight-thread zephyr fleecy.

Raised, or ribbed crochet has already been described at page 57. To work a slipper, commence with a chain of seven stitches, and crochet forty-six rows backwards and forwards, observing to make three stitches in one loop in the centre stitch of each row. This will make a sufficient increase in each succeeding row to form the front of the slipper, and at the same time cause the ribbed rows to run in an uniform diagonal direction on either side.

Having thus completed the front of the shoe, crochet, on the right-hand side, a row of twenty-six stitches, and work a sufficient number of rows (about ninety) to form the back. The end of this band is then to be sewn to the other side of the front.

The sole of the slipper may be made either of leather, or of crochet in coarse wool; the latter is most readily made by cutting the shape in stiff paper, and then working it to the exact size. The top of the slipper may be finished with an ermine trimming of worsted.

Commence with a chain of nine hundred stitches in black eight-thread zephyr fleecy.

First row—black.

Second and Third rows—white.

Crochet eleven rows, alternately with black, and any pretty chiné wool.

Fourteenth and Fifteenth rows—white.

Sixteenth and Seventeenth rows—green.

Crochet eleven rows, alternately with scarlet, and any bright chiné wool.

Twenty-ninth and Thirtieth rows—green.

Thirty-first and Thirty-second rows—black.

Crochet eleven rows, alternately with white, and a chiné wool.

Forty-fourth and Forty-fifth rows—black.

Forty-sixth and Forty-seventh rows—red.

Crochet eleven rows, alternately with green, and a chiné wool.

Fifty-ninth and Sixtieth rows—scarlet.

Repeat from second row.

By omitting a stitch in the centre of each row, the shawl will assume, whilst working, a pointed form, similar to that of a half square, at the same time that the rows of crochet will run in a diagonal direction from either side of the centre. It may be trimmed with a black fringe of about four inches deep sewn on the two sides.

To form the striped pattern as above directed, four chiné wools, of different colours, should be employed.

This is worked with German wool, in open crochet stitch, but without leaving a stitch between each, as in the ordinary method.

Chain and first row—claret.

Second row—two stitches claret, two blue, alternately.

Third row—blue.

Crochet the above pattern in claret on the blue ground.

Fifteenth row—blue.

Sixteenth row—two stitches claret, two blue, alternately.

Seventeenth row—claret.

Repeat from first row.—In the second stripe of the pattern, deep gold colour should be used in place of the blue, and black in place of the claret wool; thus working, alternately, a stripe in each of the two colours.

This will form a good pine pattern for the border of a shawl, in German wool on a black ground.

Commence with chain and first row—deep gold colour.

Second row—black.

Then crochet the annexed pine on a black ground, in the following colours.

First row—imperial blue.

Second row—lighter shade of blue.

Third row—deep scarlet.

Fourth row—bright scarlet.

Fifth row—dark green.

Sixth row—middle green.

Seventh row—dark lilac.

Eighth row—light lilac.

Ninth and Tenth rows—two shades of stone colour.

Eleventh and Twelfth rows—two shades of blue.

Thirteenth and Fourteenth rows—two shades of scarlet.

Then, work one plain row of black, and one plain row of gold colour.

To form a point, if it be intended for the border of a half square shawl, omit a stitch in the centre of each row;—this, if the size of the shawl has been determined upon, previously to commencing the work, may easily be done without interfering with the pattern, as by calculating the number of stitches required, a greater space of the ground where the stitches are to be omitted between the two centre pines may be allowed. For a square shawl, the border, if preferred, may be worked separately, and afterwards sewn on.

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Bonnet Cap,	157
Broad Open Lace,	158
Brioche Stitch,	157
Double Knitting for Comforters, &c.,	158
Eyelet-Hole Edge,	155
French Cushion, or Antimacassar,	156
Insertion,	153
Knitted Insertion,	156
Knitted Gimp Trimming,	154
Lace Pattern Edging,	147
Leaf Edge,	151
Narrow Edge,	150
Point Lace Pattern,	149
Strong Vandyke Border,	153
Valenciennes Lace,	147
Vandyke Edge,	145

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Cast on seven stitches, first and second row plain knitting.

Third row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over,[1] knit two together; turn over twice, knit two together.

Fourth row.—Bring the thread forward, knit two, purl one, knit two; turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Fifth row.—Slip one; knit two, turn over, knit two together; knit four.

Sixth row.—Knit six, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Seventh row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Eighth row.—Knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Ninth row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit six.

Tenth row.—Knit eight, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Eleventh row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Twelfth row.—Knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Thirteenth row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit nine.

Fourteenth row.—Cast off all but seven, knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Commence again as third row.

Cast on eleven stitches.

First row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Second row.—Knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Third row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit nine.

Fourth row.—Cast off three, knit seven, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Cast on sixteen stitches.

First row.—Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit two, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit five.

Second row.—Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

Third row.—Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit thirteen.

Fourth row.—Knit thirteen, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

Fifth row.—Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit two, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit five.

Sixth row.—Knit seven, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

Seventh row.—Knit three, turn over twice, purl two together, knit sixteen.

Eighth row.—Cast off five, knit ten, turn over twice, purl two together, knit three.

Cast on fifteen stitches.

First row.—Knit three, turn over, slip one, knit two together, then pull the slip-stitch over, turn over, knit three, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Second row.—Turn over, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit one, purl six, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Third row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, turn over, knit two together, knit one, knit two together, turn over, knit eight.

Fourth row.—Cast off three, knit four, purl six, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Fifth row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit one, turn over, slip one, knit two together, then pull the slip-stitch over, turn over, knit two, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Sixth row.—Turn over, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit one, purl six, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Seventh row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit two together, turn over, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit eight.

Eighth row.—Cast off three, knit four, purl six, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit one.—Then commence again.

Cast on six stitches.

First row.—Slip one, knit one, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together.

Second row.—Knit two, purl one, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Third row.—Slip one, knit one, turn over, knit two together, knit three.

Fourth row.—Cast off one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Then commence again.

Cast on eleven stitches.

First row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Second row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Third row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit three, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Fourth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit five, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Fifth row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit five, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Sixth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit seven, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Seventh row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit seven, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Eighth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit nine, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Ninth row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit nine, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Tenth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit eleven, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Eleventh row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit eleven, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Twelfth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit thirteen, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Thirteenth row.—Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit eighteen.

Fourteenth row.—Cast off until ten on one needle and one on the other, knit seven, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Cast on nine stitches.

Slip one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one, turn over, knit two together, purl one.

Every row is the same, it also makes a Fringe by casting off five stitches and pulling the other four out.

Cast on eleven stitches.

First row.—Slip one, knit one, turn over, knit two together, turn over, knit two together, turn over, knit two together, turn over, and knit the rest plain.

Second row.—Plain knitting, continue repeating these two rows until you get eighteen stitches on your pin, then knit two rows plain knitting.

Next row, knit seven stitches plain, knit two together, turn over, and knit two together to the end of the row, knitting the last stitch plain.

A plain row. Next row, knit six, knit two together, turn over, knit two together, repeat, turn over, &c., to the end of the row. A plain row.

Repeat these two last rows until you reduce the number on your pin to eleven stitches; begin again by knitting two rows plain. Always slip the first stitch.

This makes also a very pretty Cuff.

Cast on two stitches, turn over, and knit two together. Every row is the same.

This also makes a pretty Watch Guard knitted with the extra coarse Purse Twist.

Cast on eleven stitches.

First row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, turn over three times, knit one, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Second row.—Knit three, purl one, knit three, purl one, knit six.

Third row.—Plain knitting.

Fourth row.—Plain knitting.

Fifth row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, repeat turn over and knit two together three times more, then, turn over twice, knit two together, knit one.

Sixth row.—Knit three, purl one, knit eleven.

Seventh row.—Plain knitting.

Eighth row.—Cast off four, and knit the remainder.

Cast on fourteen stitches.

First row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two together, turn over twice, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Second row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit one, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, purl one, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Third row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, knit ten, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

Fourth row.—Knit three, turn over, knit two together, repeat knitting two together four times more, knit two, turn over, knit two together, knit one.

To be knitted with Terneau Wool.

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, pass the Wool round the pin, so as to have it behind, knit two together, slip a stitch seamwise, (that is taking the part of the loop nearest you,) pass the Wool round the pin, knit two together, every row the same, always knitting the last stitch.

Cast on any uneven number of stitches, bring the Wool in front of the pin, slip one, and knit two together, every row is the same. This is a very pretty stitch for Comfortables for Children’s necks knitted on large pins with Terneau Wool.

Cast on ninety stitches in Scarlet Berlin Wool.

First, second, and third rows, plain knitting.

Fourth row.—Turn over, and knit two together to the end of the row, then join on White Berlin Wool.

Knit three rows in plain knitting, then the same as fourth row.

Repeat these four rows seven times, then the Scarlet Border as before, this forms the head piece; draw it up at each end, and sew on strings. Cast on forty stitches for the band behind, with the Scarlet as above, knit the pattern over three times with the White, and then join on the Scarlet for the Border.

This must be sewed to the head piece.

Cast on any even number.

Bring the Wool in front of the pin, slip a stitch, pass the Wool back and knit one. Every row is the same. The stitch that is knitted in the one row, becomes in the next the slip-stitch.

Cast on fifteen stitches.

First row.—Slip one, knit one, turn over four times, knit two together, turn over, knit two together, repeat turn over, knit two together four times more, knit one.

Second row—Slip one, knit twelve, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit two.

Third row—Plain knitting.

Fourth row—Plain knitting.

Fifth row—Slip one, knit one, turn over five times, knit two together, knit one, turn over, knit two together, repeat turn over, knit two together five times more, knit one.

Sixth row—Slip one, knit fifteen, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit three.

Seventh row—Plain knitting.

Eighth row—Plain knitting.

Ninth row—Cast off seven and begin at the first row to knit one, turn over four times, &c.

THE END.

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ADVERTISEMENT

D. M. PEYSER,

WHOLESALE STORE, No. 58 JOHN STREET,

Between William and Nassau Streets,

NEW-YORK,

IMPORTER OF
GERMAN AND FRENCH FANCY GOODS,

Offers for sale, Wholesale & Retail, at the most reasonable terms,

WORSTEDS; Zephyr, German, Tapisserie, Fleecy, Chiné, Ombré, Double Ombré, Split Worsteds.

SILKS: Floss, Twisted, Plain and Shaded, in Sticks and Spools.

CHENILLE: Embroidery, Flower, and all kinds of Trimming and Tinsel Chenille Cord.

PATTERNS: Berlin Embroidery Patterns, a most splendid assortment.

CANVASS: French and German, Canvass for Embroidery of Linen, Cotton, Worsted, Imitation Silk, and Silk, Silver and Gold of all widths.

PERFORATED PAPER OF DIFFERENT COLORS.

BEADS: Gilt, Silvered, Steel and Glass Beads and Bugles.

NEEDLES: Embroidery Needles, Wooden, Whalebone, and Ivory Knitting Needles.

Crochet Needles.

EMBROIDERIES: All kinds, commenced and finished, such as Shoes, Suspenders and Ottomans.

FANCY GOODS.—All kinds of Paris Fancy Goods, such as Purses, Purse Trimmings, Head Ornaments, Bracelets, Hair Pins, Combs, &c. Necklaces, Gold and Silver Braids and Cords, Tinsel Cords, and Silver Bullion Tassels.

WIRE GOODS, such as Baskets, Watch-holders, &c. &c. German Rustic Willow Chairs, Work-tables, and Sofas.

FRINGES: Fringes, Cords, Gimps, Tassels, all colors and qualities, imported and of his own manufacture.

ALL KINDS OF EMBROIDERY BRAIDS.

OILED SILKS: The best French, of different colors.

Retail Store, No. 363 Broadway, corner Franklin.