My dear sir,
[1]
Embarking at Bannavie very early in the morning—diluculo surgere
saluberrimum est, but it is also particularly disagreeable—I was upon
the canal of the Caledonians, on my way to the capital of the Highlands.
This is the last voyage which, upon this occasion, I shall have the
pleasure of describing. The vessel was commanded by Captain Turner, who
is a remarkable meteorologist, and has emitted some wonderful weather
prophecies. Having had, moreover, much opportunity of observing
character, in his capacity of captain of boats chiefly used by tourists,
he is well acquainted with the inmost nature of the aristocracy and
their imitators. Being myself of an aristocratic turn of mind (as well
as shape of body) it was refreshing to me to sit with him on the bridge
and speak of our titled friends.
Fort Augustus, which we passed, is not called so from having been built
by the Roman Emperor of that name, quite the reverse. The next object of
interest is a thing called the Fall of Foyers, which latter word is
sounded like fires, and the announcement to Cockneys that they are going
to see the affair, leads them to expect something of a pyrotechnic
character. It is nothing of that sort. The steamboat is moored, you rush
on shore, and are instantly arrested by several pikemen—I do not mean
soldiers of a mediæval date, but fellows at a gate, who demand fourpence
apiece from everybody landing in those parts. Being in Scotland, this
naturally made me think I had come to Johnny Groat's house, but no such
thing, and I have no idea of the reason of this highway robbery, or why
a very dirty card should have been forced upon me in proof that I had
submitted. We were told to go up an ascending road, and then to climb a
dreadfully steep hill, and that then we should see something. For my own
part, I felt inclined to see everybody blowed first, but being
over-persuaded, I saw everybody blowed afterwards, for that hill is a
breather, I can tell you. However, I rushed up like a mounting deer, and
when at the top was told to run a little way down again. I did, and saw
the sight. You have seen the cataracts of the Nile? It's not like them.
You have seen a cataract in a party's eye. It's not like that. Foyers is
a very fine waterfall, and worthy of much better verses than some which
Mr. Burns addressed to it in his English style, which is vile. Still,
the waterfall at the Colosseum, Regent's Park, is a good one, and has
this advantage, that you can sit in a chair and look at it as long as
you like, whereas you walk a mile to Foyers, goaded by the sailors from
the vessel, who are perpetually telling you to make haste, and you are
allowed about three minutes and fourteen seconds to gaze upon the scene,
when the sailors begin to goad you back again, frightening you with
hints that the captain will depart without you. Precious hot you come on
board, with a recollection of a mass of foam falling into an abyss. That
is not the way to see Foyers, and I hereby advise all tourists who are
going to stop at Inverness, to drive over from thence, take their time
at the noble sight, and do the pier-beggars out of their fourpences.
The stately towers of the capital of the Highlands are seen on our
right. A few minutes more, and we are moored. Friendly voices hail us,
and also hail a vehicle. We are borne away. There is news for us. We are
forthwith—even in that carriage, were it possible—to induct ourselves
into the black tr × ws × rs of refined life and the white cravat of
graceful sociality, and to accompany our host to the dinner of the
Highland railwaymen. We rail. We have not come six hundred miles to
dress for dinner. Our host is of a different opinion, and being a host
in himself, conquers our single-handed resistance. We attend the dinner,
and find ourselves among Highland chieftains plaided and plumed in their
"tartan array." (Why doesn't Horatio MacCulloch, noble artist and
Highland-man, come to London and be our tartan R.A.?) We hear wonders
of the new line, which is to save folks the trouble of visiting the lost
tribe at Aberdeen, and is to take them direct from Inverness to Perth,
through wonderful scenery. We see a programme of toasts, to the number
of thirty-four, which of course involves sixty-eight speeches. There is
also much music by the volunteers—not, happily, by bag-pipers. We
calculate, on the whole, that the proceedings will be over about four in
the morning. Ha! ha! Dremacky. There is a deus ex machiná literally,
a driver on an engine, and he starts at ten. Numbers of the guests must
go with him. Claymore! We slash out the toasts without mercy—without
mercy on men set down to speak and who have spoiled their dinner by
thinking over their impromptus. But there is one toast which shall be
honoured, yea, with the Highland honours. Mr. Punch's health is
proposed. It is well that this handsome hall is built strongly, or the
Highland maidens should dance here no more. The shout goes up for Mr.
Punch.
I believe that I have mentioned to you, once or twice, that I am an
admirable speaker, but upon this occasion I surpassed myself—I was in
fact, as the Covent Garden play-bills say, "unsurpassingly successful."
Your interests were safe in my hands. I believe that no person present
heard a syllable of what I said. It was this:
[It may have been, but as what our correspondent has been pleased
to send as his speech would occupy four columns, we prefer to leave
it to immortality in the excellent newspaper of which he sends us a
"cutting." We incline to think that he was weak enough to say
what he says he said, because he could not have invented and
written it out after a Highland dinner, and it was published next
morning. It is extremely egotistical, and not in the least
entertaining—Ed.]
Among the guests was a gentleman who owns the mare who will certainly
win the Cesarewitch. I know this for a fact, and I advise you to put
your money on Lioness. His health was proposed, and he returned thanks
with the soul of wit. I hope he recollects the hope expressed by the
proposer touching a certain saddling-bell. I thought it rather strong in
"Bible-loving Scotland", but to be sure, we were in the Highlands, which
are England, or at all events where the best English spoken in Scotland
is heard.
We reached our house at an early hour, and I was lulled to a gentle
slumber by the sound of the river Ness. This comes out of Loch Ness, and
in the latest geographical work with which I am acquainted, namely,
"Geography Anatomiz'd, by Pat. Gordon, M.A.F.R.S. Printed for Andr.
Bell, at the Cross Keys and Bible in Cornhill, and R. Smith, under the
Royal Exchange, 1711", I read that "towards the north-west part of
Murray is the famous Lough-Ness which never freezeth, but retaineth
its natural heat, even in the extremest cold of winter, and in many
places this lake hath been sounded with a line of 500 fathom, but no
bottom can be found" (just as in the last rehearsal of the artisans'
play in the Midsummer Night's Dream), but I believe that recent
experiments have been more successful, and that though no lead plummet
would go so deep, a volume by a very particular friend of mine was
fastened to the line, and descended to the bottom in no time. I will
mention his name if he is not kind to my next work, but at present I
have the highest esteem and respect for him. I only show him that I know
this little anecdote.
There were what are called Highland games to be solemnised in Inverness.
I resolved to attend them, and, if I saw fit, to join in them. But I was
informed by a Highland friend of mine, Laidle of Toddie, a laird much
respected, that all competitors must appear in the kilt. As my own
graceful proportions would look equally well in any costume, this
presented no difficulty, and I marched off to Mr. Macdougall, the great
Highland costumier, and after walking through a dazzling array of Gaelic
glories, I said, mildly, "Can you make me a Highland dress?"
"Certainly, in a few hours", said Mr. Macdougall; but somehow I fancied
that he did not seem to think that I was displaying any vast amount of
sense.
"Then, please to make me one, very handsome", said I; "and send it home
to-night." And I was going out of the warehouse.
"But, sir", said Mr. Macdougall, "do you belong to any clan, or what
tartan will you have?"
"Mr. Macdougall", said I, "it may be that I do belong to a clan, or am
affiliated to one. It may be, that like Edward Waverley, I shall be
known hereafter as the friend of the sons (and daughters) of the
clan ——. It may be that if war broke out between that clan and another,
I would shout our war-cry, and, drawing my claymore, would walk into the
hostile clan like one o'clock. But at present that is a secret, and I
wear not the garb of any clan in particular. Please to make me up a
costume out of the garbs of several clans, but be sure you put the
brightest colours, as they suit my complexion."
I am bound to say that though Mr. Macdougall firmly declined being party
to this arrangement, which he said would be inartistic, he did so with
the utmost courtesy. My opinion is, that he thought I was a little
cracked. Many persons have thought that, but there is no foundation for
the suspicion.
"You see, Mr. Macdougall", says I, "I am a Plantagenet by descent, and
one of my ancestors was hanged in the time of George the Second. Do
those facts suggest anything to you in the way of costume?"
"The first does not", he said, "but the second may. A good many persons
had the misfortune to be hanged about the time you mention, and for the
same reason. I suppose your ancestor died for the Stuarts."
"No, sir, he died for a steward. The unfortunate nobleman was most
iniquitously destroyed for shooting a plebeian of the name of Johnson,
for which reason I hate everybody of that name, from Ben downwards, and
will not have a Johnson's Dictionary in my house."
"Then, sir", says Mr. Macdougall, "the case is clear. You can mark your
sense of the conduct of the sovereign who executed your respected
relative. You can assume the costume of his chief enemies. You can wear
the Stuart tartan."
"Hm", says I. "I should look well in it, no doubt; but then I have no
hostility to the present House of Brunswick."
"Why", says he, laughing; "Her Majesty dresses her own princes in the
Stuart tartan. I ought to know that."
"Then that's settled", I replied.
Ha! You would indeed have been proud of your contributor, had you seen
him splendidly arrayed in that gorgeous garb, and treading the heather
of Inverness High Street like a young mountaineer. He did not look then
like
Epicurus Rotundus.
Inverness Castle.
[1]
We perfectly understand this advsnce towards civility as the writer
approaches the end of his journey. He is a superior kind of young man,
if not the genius he imagines himself.--Ed.
Notice to the Highlanders.—Whereas Mr. Punch, through his "Bilious
Contributor", did on the 7th November, 1863, offer a prize of fifty
guineas to the best Highland player at Spellikins, in the games for
1873. And whereas Mr. Punch has had the money, with ten years' interest,
quite ready, and waiting to be claimed. And whereas no Highland player
at Spellikins appeared at the games of 1873. This to give notice that
Mr. Punch has irrevocably confiscated the money to his own sole and
peculiar use, and intends to use it in bribery at the next general
election. He begs to remark to the Highlands, in the words of his
ancestor, Robert Bruce, at Bannockburn—"There is a rose fallen from
your wreath!"[2]
Punch.
7th November, 1873.
[2]Of course the King said nothing so sweetly sentimental.
What he did say to Earl Randolph was, "Mind your eye, you great stupid
ass, or you'll have the English spears in your back directly." Nor did
the Earl reply, "My wreath shall bloom, or life shall fade. Follow, my
household!" but, with an amazing great curse, "I'll cook 'em. Come on,
you dawdling beggars, and fulfil the prophecies!" But so history is
written.
More Revenge for Flodden.—Scene: a Scotch Hotel. Tourist (indignant at
his bill). "Why, landlord, there must be some mistake there!"
Landlord. "Mistake? Aye, aye. That stupid fellow, the waiter, has just
charged you five shillings—too little."
From the Moors.—Sportsman. "Much rain Donald?" Donald. "A bit soft.
Just wet a' day, wi' showers between."
English Tourist. "I say, look here. How far is it to this Glenstarvit?
They told us it was only——"
Native. "Aboot four miles."
Tourist (aghast). "All bog like this?"
Native. "Eh—h—this is just naethin' till't!!"
'Arry (on a Northern tour, with Cockney pronunciation). "Then I'll
'ave a bottle of aile."
Hostess of the Village Inn. "Ile, sir? We've nane in the hoose, but
castor ile or paraffin. Wad ony o' them dae, sir?"
The patent silent motor-crawler.
(One so seldom finds an Artist who realises the poetic conception.)
"Is this the noble Moor...?"—Othello, Act IV., Scene 1.
Scene.—Police Court, North Highlands.
Accused. "Put, Pailie, it's na provit!"
Bailie. "Hoot toots, Tonal, and hear me speak! Aw'll only fine ye
ha'f-a-croon the day, because et's no varra well provit. But if ever ye
come before me again, ye'll no get aff under five shillin's, whether
et's provit or no!!"
DEERE STALKYNGE IN YE HYGHLANDES
Keeper (on moor rented by the latest South African millionaire, to
guest). "Never mind the birds, sir. For onny sake, lie down! The
maister's gawn tae shoot!"
(Guilderstein in the Highlands)
Guild. (his first experience). "I've been swindled! That confounded
agent said it was all drivin' on this moor, and look at it, all hills
and slosh! Not a decent carriage road within ten miles!"
The Master. "I'm sayin', wumman, ha'e ye gotten the tickets?"
The Mistress. "Tuts, haud your tongue aboot tickets. Let me count the
weans!"
The Irrepressible. "Hi, Scotty, tip us the 'Ighland fling."
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Tipped!
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Return of the wounded and missing Popplewitz omitted to
send in after his day on the moors.
Inhabitant of Uist. "I say, they'll pe speaking fa-ar petter English
in Uist than in Styornaway."
Lass of the Lewis. "Put in Styornaway they'll not pe caa-in' fush
'feesh,' whatefer!"
Guilderstein. "Missed again! And dat fellow, Hoggenheimer, comin'on
Monday too! Why did I not wire to Leadenhall for an 'aunch, as Betty
told me!"
Juvenis. "Jolly day we had last week at McFoggarty's wedding! Capital
champagne he gave us, and we did it justice, I can tell you--"
Senex (who prefers whiskey). "Eh-h, mun, it's a' verra weel weddings
at ye-er time o' life. Gie me a gude funeral!"