BOOK IV. — CHAPTER I. PRIVATE DWELLINGS. — CHAPTER II. HOUSEHOLD FURNITURE. — CHAPTER III. FOOD OF HOMERIC TIMES—MEAT, FISH, ETC. — CHAPTER IV. POULTRY, FRUIT, WINE, ETC. — CHAPTER V. ENTERTAINMENTS. — CHAPTER VI. ENTERTAINMENTS. — CHAPTER VII. THE THEATRE. — CHAPTER VIII. THEATRE ( continued ).
75
The opinion appears to prevail among certain
writers, that the private dwellings of the Hellenes,
or at least of the Athenians, were always mean and
insignificant.[261] This imaginary fact they account for
by supposing, that nobles and opulent citizens were
deterred from indulging in the luxuries of architecture
by the form of government and the envious
jealousy of the common people. But such a view of
the matter is inconsistent with the testimony of history.
At Athens, as everywhere else, things followed
their natural course. In the early ages of the commonwealth,
when manners were simple, the houses
of the greatest men in the state differed very little
from those of their neighbours. As wealth, however,
and luxury increased, together with the developement
of the democratic principle, individuals erected themselves
mansions vying in extent and splendour with
the public edifices of the state;[262] and as the polity
76degenerated more and more into ochlocracy, the dwellings
of the rich[263] increased in size and grandeur, until
they at length outstripped the very temples of the
gods. A similar process took place at Sparta, where
shortly after the Peloponnesian war, the more distinguished
citizens possessed suburban villas, which
seem to have been of spacious dimensions and filled
with costly furniture.[264]
Upon these points, however, I dwell, not from any
belief that they are honourable to the Greek character,
but because they are true. It would have
been more satisfactory to find them preserving, in
every period of their history, the stern and lofty
simplicity of republican manners, far outshining in
the eyes of the philosopher the palaces of Oriental
kings glittering with gold and ivory and jewels, insomuch
that the cottage of Socrates, erected in the
humblest style of Athenian domestic architecture,
would be an object, were it still in existence, of
far deeper interest to the genuine lover of antiquity
than the mansions of Meidias or Callias, or even
than the imperial abodes of Semiramis, Darius, and
Artaxerxes.
Nevertheless, wherever there exists opulence, it
will exhibit itself in the erection of stately dwellings;
and accordingly we find that, prior even to
the Trojan war,[265] commerce and increasing luxury had
already inspired the Greeks with a taste for splendour
and magnificence, which displayed itself especially
in the architecture and ornaments of their
palaces and houses of the great.[266]
Homer, minute and graphic in his descriptions,
delineates a very flattering picture of Greek domestic
architecture in his time, when the chiefs
and nobles had already begun to enshrine themselves
in spacious edifices, elaborately ornamented
77with, and surrounded by, all the circumstances of
pomp known to their age.[267]
In those days the greatest men did not disdain
to apply themselves to agriculture, to have their
dwellings surrounded by the signs and implements
of the pursuit in which they were engaged.[268] And
as in southern Italy the ancient nobles erected shops
in front of their palaces or villas, in which the produce
of their land was disposed of, so in the Homeric
houses the same space was occupied by the
farm-yard enclosed by strong and lofty walls, surrounded
by battlements, within which were their
heaps of manure, harrows, ploughs, carts, and waggons,
and stacks of hay and corn;[269] and hither, too,
in the evening were driven in their numerous flocks
and herds, to protect them from the nightly marauders.
The great entrance gates were in the heroic
ages guarded by ban dogs,[270] which afterwards made
way for porters,[271] and in still later times were succeeded
by eunuchs.[272]
Occasionally for the canine doorkeepers were substituted
in commercial states gold and silver representations,
more likely to attract than repel thieves;
for example, at the entrance to Alcinoös’s palace
were groups of this description, attributed to the
wonder-working Hephæstos.[273] A coarse imitation of
this practice prevailed among the Romans, for we find
78in Petronius that Trimalchio had his court guarded
by a painted mastiff, over which in good square characters
were the words “Beware of the dog.”[274]
Along the walls of this enclosure the cattle-sheds
would in remoter ages appear to have been ranged,
where afterwards stood suites of chambers for the
domestics, or piazzas, or colonades, to serve as covered
walks in extremely hot or bad weather. Within,
on either side the gateway,[275] chiefly among the Dorians,
rose a pillar of conical shape, sometimes an
obelisk, in honour of Apollo or of Dionysos, or,
according to others, of both, while in the centre
was an altar of Zeus Herceios, on which family sacrifices
were offered up.[276] At its inner extremity
you beheld a spacious portico, adjoining the entrance
to the house, where in warm weather the young men
often slept. From the descriptions of the poet, however,
it would appear to have been something more
than a common portico, resembling rather the porches
of our old English houses, roofed over and extending
like a recess into the body of the house itself.
In the dwellings of the great, this part of the
building, adorned with numerous statues, was probably
of marble finely polished if not sculptured,
and being merely a chamber open in front could
not in those fine climates be by any means an unpleasant
bedroom, particularly as it usually faced
the south and caught the early rays of the sun.
Here Odysseus[277] slept during his stay with Alcinoös,
as did likewise Priam and the Trojan Herald while
guests of Achilles in his military hut.[278]
In this porch were seats of handsome polished
79stone, as in the palace of Nestor at Pylos, which,
to render them more shining, would appear to have
been rubbed with oil.[279] Similar seats are found to
this day before the houses of the wealthy at Cairo
and other cities of the East, where in the cool of
the evening old men habitually take their station,
and are joined for the purpose of gossip by their
neighbours. In the larger towns of Nubia an open
space planted with dates, palms, or the Egyptian
fig-tree, more shady and spreading than the oak,
and furnished with wooden seats, collects together
the elders, who there enjoy what the Englishman
seeks in his club, and the Greek found in his lesche—the
pleasure of comparing his opinions with those
of his neighbours.
When, in after times, this plain porch had been
succeeded by a magnificent peristyle or colonnade,
the primitive custom of sleeping in the open air was
abandoned; but here the master of the house with
his guests took their early walk to enjoy the morning
sun. It was customary among all ranks at Athens
to rise betimes, as it generally is still in the warm
countries of the South. Socrates and his young
friend, the sophist-hunter,[280] coming to the house of
Callias, soon after day-break, find its owner taking
the air with several of his guests in the colonnade,
the young men moving in the train of their elders,
and making way for them as they turn round to retrace
their steps. There was usually at Athens a
similar peristyle on both sides of the house—one
for summer the other for winter, and a door generally
opened from the women’s apartment into that
communicating with the garden, where the ladies
enjoyed the cool air in the midst of laurel copses,
fountains, and patches of green sward,[281] interspersed
with rose-trees, violet-beds, and other sweet shrubs
and flowers.
80The town-houses of Homeric times had generally
no aulè, but the porch opened directly into the street,
since it is here that, in the description of the shield,
we find the women standing to behold the dancers
and enjoy the music of the nuptial procession.[282] Afterwards,
as the taste for magnificence advanced, the
whole façade of the corps de logis[283] was richly ornamented,
while the outer gates were purposely left
open, that the passers-by might witness the splendour
of the owner. Occasionally, likewise, the great
door, leading from the portico into the house, was
concealed by costly purple hangings,[284] which, being
passed, you entered a broad passage, having on either
side, doors[285] leading into the apartments on the ground
floor, and conducting to an inner court, surrounded
by a peristyle, where the gynæconitis,[286] or harem, commenced.
The apartments of palaces displayed, even in very
early times, the taste of the Greeks for splendour
and magnificence. The walls were covered with
wainscoting inlaid with gold and ivory, as we still
find in the East whole chambers lined with mother-of-pearl.[287]
At first, the gold was laid on in thin plates,
which, in process of time, led to the idea of gilding.[288]
Even Phocion, who affected great simplicity and
plainness, had the walls of his house adorned with
laminæ of copper,[289] probably in the same style as that
subterraneous chamber discovered, during the last
81century, in the excavations made at Rome. It appears,
too, that, occasionally, the walls of the apartments
at Athens, as at Herculaneum and Pompeii
were decorated with paintings in bright colours,[290]
probably in the same style, though as much superior
in beauty and delicacy of execution, as art, in
the age of Pericles, was superior to art in the days
of Nero. Still the paintings discovered in the excavated
Italian cities,—sometimes[291] grotesque and extravagant,
as where we behold the pigmies making
war upon the cranes, winged geniuses at work in a
carpenter’s or shoemaker’s shop, or an ass laden with
hampers of wine, rushing forward to engage a crocodile,
whilst his master pulls him back by the tail—sometimes
rural and elegant, consisting of a series
of wild landscapes, mountains dotted with cottages,
sea-shores, harbours, and baths, Nymphs and Cupids
angling on the borders of lakes, beneath trees of the
softest and most exquisite foliage,—may enable us
to form some conception of the landscapes with
which Agelarcos[292] adorned the house of Alcibiades.
The halls and saloons on the ground-floor were
paved with marble or mosaic work,[293] which often, if
we may judge from the specimens left us by their
imitators, represented pictures of the greatest elegance,
containing, among other things, likenesses of
the loveliest divinities of Olympos.[294] These mosaics
were wrought with minute shards of precious marbles
of various colours, interspersed with pieces of
amber,[295] and, probably, also, of glass, as was the
fashion in Italy, where whole hyaline floors have
been found consisting either of one piece or of
squares so finely joined together, that the sutures
82were invisible to the naked eye. No mention, I believe,
is made in Greek authors of lining the walls
of apartments with glass, or even of glass windows,[296]
which, however, were common in the cities of Magna
Græcia in the age immediately succeeding that of
our Saviour. It is extremely probable, however,
that as the Greeks were as well acquainted as the
Romans with the properties of the lapis specularis;[297]
they likewise made use of thin plates of this stone,
or talc, or gypsum, as they still do in Egypt for
window-panes. So much, indeed, seems inferable
from a passage of Plutarch,[298] as, also, that transparent
squares of horn were employed for the same
purpose, as oyster-shells and oiled paper still are
in China. Previously, however, the windows[299] (sometimes
square and situated high in the wall, sometimes
reaching from the ceiling to the floor) were
closed with lattice-work[300] in iron, bronze, or wood,
over which, in bad weather, blinds of hair-cloth or
prepared leather were usually drawn.
The ceilings at first consisted merely of the beams,
rafters, and planks, forming the roof, and supporting
the layers of earth or straw that covered it; but, by
degrees, the wood-work was carefully painted, and
83arranged so as to form a succession of coffers and
deep sunken panels. Sometimes the whole ceiling
consisted of chamfered, or fretted cedar work,[301] or
of cypress wood, or was covered with paintings in
blue and gold, and supported on columns[302] lofty and
deeply fluted for the purpose, as has been ingeniously
conjectured,[303] of receiving spears into the semi-cylindrical
cavities thus formed. If this idea be well
founded, we have a very satisfactory reason of the
origin of fluting columns, and it appears to be perfectly
consistent with Homer’s account of Odysseus’s
chamber, where a number of lances are spoken of
standing round a pillar.[304]
The principal apartments, according to the fashion
still prevailing in the East, were furnished with
divans,[305] or broad immovable seats, running along the
walls, which are now stuffed soft atop with cotton,
and covered with scarlet or purple, bordered by gold
fringe a foot deep. In the Homeric age they would
appear to have been of carved wood, inlaid with
ivory and gold, and studded with silver nails.[306] For
these divans they had a variety of coverings, sometimes
skins, at others purple carpets, in addition to
which they, as now, piled up, as a rest for the back
or elbow, heaps of cushions, purple above, and of
white linen beneath.[307] By degrees, these seats became
movable and were converted into couches or
sofas, manufactured of bronze, or silver, or precious
woods, veneered with tortoiseshell.[308] In the palaces
of oriental sultans they are sometimes made of
alabaster, encrusted with jewels. Somewhere in the
84more retired parts of the Domos were the picture-gallery
and library, of neither of which have we any
exact description. The former, however, faced the
north, and the latter the west. If the libraries of
the Greeks at all resembled in form and dimensions
those found at Pompeii, they were by no means
spacious; neither, in fact, was a great deal of room
necessary, as the manuscripts of the ancients stowed
away much closer than our modern books,[309] and were
sometimes kept in circular boxes, of elegant form,
with covers of turned wood. The volumes consisted
of rolls of parchment, sometimes purple at the back,[310]
or papyrus, about twelve or fourteen inches in breadth,
and as many feet long as the subject required.
The pages formed a number of transverse compartments,
commencing at the left, and proceeding in
order to the other extremity, and the reader, holding
in either hand one end of the manuscript, unrolled
and rolled it up[311] as he read. Occasionally
these books were placed on shelves, in piles, with
the ends outwards, adorned with golden bosses,[312] the
titles of the various treatises being written on pendant
labels.
If we proceed now to the court[313] dividing the Domos
from the Thalamos we shall perceive, on both sides
of the door leading out of the Andron, flights of
steps ascending to the upper chambers where, in
the heroic ages, the young men and strangers of
distinction usually slept. Thus, in the palace of
Ithaca, Telemachos had a bed-chamber on the second
story, whence the poet is careful to observe he enjoyed
a good prospect.[314] In later times, however,
85there were, on the ground floor, suites of apartments,
denominated Xenon, appropriated to the use of guests,
who there lived freely and at ease as in their own
houses.
At the further extremity of the interior court a
steep flight of steps led to an elevated basement and
doorway, which formed the entrance into the thalamos.[315]
This part of the house would appear to
have been laid out in a peculiar manner, consisting,
first, of a lofty and spacious apartment,[316] where all
the females of the family usually sat while engaged
in embroidery or other needlework.[317] It likewise
formed the nursery, and, at its inner extremity, in a
deep recess, the bed of the mistress of the family
appears to have stood, on either side of which were
doors leading to flights of steps into the garden,
set apart for the use of the women.
It has by many been supposed, that the Thalamos
was a chamber particularly appropriated to the use
of young unmarried ladies; but, since we find Helen
and Penelope inhabiting the Thalamos, it may be presumed
that it was common to all the females of the
house. Hector, in his visit to Paris, finds him in the
Thalamos, turning about and polishing his arms, as
if he meant to use them, while, close at hand, are
Helen and her maids engaged in weaving or embroidery.
The word was often used in the same
signification as Gynæconitis,[318] or “the harem;” and,
86therefore, when Theocritus[319] speaks of a “maiden
from the Thalamus,” and Phocylides, with the suspicious
caution of a more vicious age, advises that young
women be kept in “well-locked Thalamoi,” it is clear
that the female apartments generally are meant.
These were, in Sparta, called οα̈ (which, as is well
known, in the common language of Greece, signifiessignifies
eggs), whence, according to Clearchos,[320] the
fable which describes Helen proceeding from an egg,
because born and educated in the chambers so called.
Throughout the Iliad and the Odyssey we find the
poet speaking of this part of the house as inhabited
by women. Here lived Penelope,[321] far from the
brawls of the suitors who crowded the halls of the
Domos; and here Ares pressed his suit with success
to Astyoche and Polymela, who both became the
mothers of valiant sons.[322] From which, among many
other circumstances, it is manifest that, in those
ages, the sexes met easily, even the entrance to the
harem not being impracticable to a lover.
The bedchambers of the young unmarried women
appear to have flanked the great central hall of the
Thalamos, and here the female slaves likewise slept,
apparently in recesses, near the chamber-doors of
their mistresses, as we find particularly remarked
in the case of Nausicaa and her maids. At Athens,
the door of communication between the Andron[323] and
the Gynæconitis was kept carefully barred and locked
to prevent all intercourse between the male and
female slaves, the keys being entrusted solely to
the mistress of the house.
As these apartments were less exposed than any
other portion of the building, and far more carefully
guarded, it became customary, as in the East
it still is, to lay up in the Thalamos, more especially
in the dark basement story, much valuable
87property, such as arms, gold, silver, the wardrobe
of both sexes, and even oil and wine. Among the
Romans, or, indeed, among the Greeks, of a later
age,[324] this step would scarcely have been taken, lest
the ladies should have grown too assiduous in their
attention to the skins. But in remoter ages these
sordid fears had no existence. Accordingly, we find
the prudent Odysseus, who apprehended, perhaps,
the tricks of his domestics, stowing away his casks
of choice old wine in the Thalamos, doubtless, considering
it safer there, under the keeping of Euryclea,
than it would have been anywhere else in the
palace.[325]
In later and more civilized ages, the Thalamos
was still used for the same purposes; for, in the
establishment of Ischomachos, a pattern of Attic
economy, we find that the more valuable portion of
the family wardrobe, with the plate and other costly
utensils, was there deposited. Corn, according to the
suggestions of common sense, they laid up in the
driest rooms, wine in the coolest. The apartments
into which most sunshine found its way were appropriated
to such employments and to the display
of such furniture as required much light.[326] Their
dining-rooms, where, also, the men usually sat when
at home, they carefully contrived so as to be cool
in summer and warm in winter, though, in severe
weather, a good fire was often found necessary.[327]
The same judicious principle commonly regulated
the erection of their habitations, which were divided
88into two sets of apartments, suited to the two great
divisions of the year. As we have already remarked,
the principal front looked towards the south, that
it might catch the rays of the wintry sun, whose
more vertical summer beams were excluded by broad
verandahs, or colonnades.
In what part of the edifice stood the bathing-room
(βαλανεῖον, so called from its having, in remoter ages,
been heated with acorns, βάλανοι)[328] I have been unable
to discover, though it appears certain that,
even so far back as the heroic ages, a chamber
was always set apart for the bath. At first, doubtless,
they were content with cold water; but that
this was soon succeeded by warm water[329] may be conjectured
from the tradition ascribing the first use
of it to Heracles, whence warm baths were ever
afterwards called the Baths of Heracles.
The form of the Puelos,[330] or vessel in which they
bathed, appears occasionally to have resembled an
Egyptian sarcophagus, and to have been sometimes
round, and constructed of white or green marble,
or glass, or bronze, or common stone, or wood,[331] in
which case it would seem to have been portable. In
the baths of Pompeii the marble basins, whether
parallelogramatic or circular, were of spacious dimensions,
and raised two or three feet above the pavement.
A step for the convenience of the bathers
extends round it on the inside, and at the bottom are
marble cushions upon which they rested. In the labra
of the Grecian female baths rose a smooth cippus in
the form of a truncated cone, denominated omphalos,
on which the ladies sat while chatting with their female
companions.[332]
When once the warm bath came into use, people
89employed it to excess, bathing as frequently as five
or six times a day, and in water so hot as to half
scald themselves.[333] Immediately afterwards, to prevent
the skin from chapping, they anointed their
bodies with oils and perfumed unguents.[334] Occasionally,
instead of plunging into the water, they sat upright,
as is still the custom in the hammāms of the
East, while the water was poured with a sort of ladle
on their head and shoulders.
The public baths, of which no full description referring
to very ancient times remains, were numerous
in all Hellenic cities, more particularly at Athens,
where they were surmounted with domes,[335] and received
their light from above. These establishments
were frequented by all classes of women who could
afford to pay for such luxury, rich, poor, honourable,
and dishonourable.
The attendants, in later and more corrupt times
at least, were men, whose sole clothing consisted of
a leathern apron about the loins, while the ladies, who
undressed in the Apodyterion, went through the various
processes of the bath in the same primitive
clothing. It was, however, customary for them to
enter the water together in crowds,[336] so that they kept
each other in countenance. Here the matrons who
had sons to marry studied the form and character of
the young ladies who frequented the baths; and as
all the defects both of person and features were necessarily
revealed, it was next to impossible for any lady,
not sufficiently opulent to keep up a bathing establishment
in her own house, to retain for any length of
time an undeserved celebrity for beauty. In the
baths of the East, the bodies of the bathers are
cleansed by small bags of camel-hair, woven rough,
90and passed over the hand of the attendant; or with
a handful of the fine fibres of the Mekka palm-tree
combed soft, and filled with fragrant and saponaceous
earths, which are rubbed on the skin till the whole
body is covered with froth. Similar means were
employed in the baths of Greece, and the whole was
afterwards cleansed off the skin by gold or silver stlengides,
or blunt scrapers somewhat curved towards the
point.[337]
The architectural arrangements of these baths,[338] if
we may draw any analogy from similar establishments
in a later age, were nearly as follows:—Entering
the building by a lofty and spacious portico, you
found yourself in a large hall, paved with marble and
adorned with columns, from which, through a side-door,
you passed into the Apodyterion, or undressing-room;
next, into a chamber where was the cold water
in basins of porphyry or green jasper; immediately
contiguous lay the Tepidarium, to which succeeded
the Sudarium, a vaulted apartment furnished with
basins of warm water, and where the heat was excessive;
from this, moving forward, you successively traversed
saloons of various degrees of temperature and
dimensions, until you found yourself in the dressing-room,
whither your garments had been carried by
your domestic, or the attendants on the baths.[339] These
establishments were likewise provided with water-closets,[340]
placed in a retired part of the building, and
furnished with wooden seats, basin and water-pipe, as
in modern times.
To diminish the chances of being robbed, stealing
from a bath was at Athens made a capital
offence;[341] so that the persons who frequented them
91ran very little risk. The price was usually moderate,
though in some cities, as for example at Phaselis,
they were in the habit of doubling their
charges to foreigners, which drew from a witty sophist
a very cutting remark; for his slave disputing
with the keeper of the bath, and contending that
his master ought not to be charged more than
other persons, the sophist, who overheard the dispute,
exclaimed, “Wretch, would you make me a
‘Phaselitan for a farthing?’”[342]
The roofs of the more ancient Greek houses were
generally flat,[343] not sloping upwards to a point, as
was afterwards the fashion.[344] In Egypt and Syria,
and almost throughout the East, the same taste
still obtains; and as palm trees, loftier than the
buildings, often grow beside the walls, and extend
their beautiful pendulous branches over a great part
of the roof, nothing can be more delightful on a
mild serene evening than to sit aloft on those
breezy eminences sipping coffee, gazing over the
green rice fields, or watching the stars as they put
forth their golden lamps through the violet skirts
of day. But there a parapet usually preserves him
who enjoys the scene from falling. It was otherwise
of old in Greece. The roof consisted simply
of a number of beams laid close together and covered
with cement, so that, as was proved by the fate
of Elpenor,[345] the practice of sleeping there in warm
weather, quite common throughout the country, was
not wholly without danger.
On the construction of the kitchen,[346] which in
Greek houses was sometimes a separate little building
erected in the court-yard, our information is
extremely imperfect. It is certain, however, contrary
92to the common opinion, that it was furnished
with a chimney,[347] and that the smoke was not permitted
to find its way through an aperture in the
roof. Thus much might be inferred from a passage
in the Wasps, when the old dicast, in love
with the courts of law, is endeavouring to escape
from the restraint imposed on him by his son, by
climbing out through the chimney. It is clear that
he has got into some aperture, where he is hidden
from sight, for hearing a noise in the wall, his son
Bdelycleon, cries out, “What is that?” upon which
the old man replies, “I am only the smoke.” It
is plain, that he would not, like a Hindù Yoghi,
be balancing himself in the air, otherwise the young
man must have beheld him sailing up towards the
roof. But the matter is set entirely at rest by the
Scholiast, who observes, that the καπνοδόχη was a
narrow channel like a pipe through which the smoke
ascended from the kitchen. This explanation has
been confirmed by the discoveries of Colonel Leake,[348]
who on the rocky slopes of the hill of the Museion
and Pnyx, found the remains of a house
partly excavated in the rock, in which the chimney
still remained.
The same convenience, also, existed in the Roman
kitchens,[349] though they would appear to have been
unskilfully constructed in both countries, since the
cooks complain of the smoke being borne hither
and thither by the wind, and interfering with their
operations. However, this may have arisen from
the numerous small furnaces which, as in France,
were ranged along the wall for the purpose of cooking
several dishes at once. The chimneys having
been perpendicular, as in our old farm-houses, were
93furnished with stoppers to keep out the rain in bad
weather.[350]
That the kitchens were sometimes not sufficiently
airy and comfortable may be inferred from the practice
of a philosophical cook in Damoxenos, who used
to take his station immediately outside the door, and
from thence give his orders to the inferior operatives.
Great care was nevertheless taken that it
should be well lighted, and that the door should
be so situated as to be as little exposed as possible
to whirling gusts of wind.[351] From a passage in the
Scholiast on the Wasps, and the existence of drains
in the excavations on the hill of the Museion, it is
clear that the Athenian houses were furnished with
sinks,[352] though in the Italian kitchens there seem
merely to have been little channels running along
the walls to carry off the water. The floor, too, was
constructed in both countries with a view at once
to dryness and elegance,[353] being formed of several
layers of various materials all porous though binding,
so that it allowed whatever water was spilt to sink
through instantaneously. The upper layer, about
six inches thick, consisted of a cement composed of
lime, sand, and pounded charcoal or ashes, the surface
of which, being polished with pumice-stone,
presented to the eye the appearance of a fine black
marble. The roof in early times was no doubt of
wood,[354] though afterwards it came to be vaulted or
run up in the form of a cupola. The walls were
sometimes decorated with rude paintings.[355]
The street-door of a Grecian house, usually, when
single, opened outwards, but when there were folding
94doors they opened inwards as with us.[356] In the
former case it was customary when any one happened
to be going forth, to knock, or call, or ring
a bell, in order to warn passengers to make way.[357]
These doors were constructed of various materials,[358]
according to the taste and circumstances of the
owner, sometimes of oak, or fir, or maple, or elm;
and afterwards as luxury advanced they were made
of cedar, cyprus, or even of citron wood, inlaid as
in the East, with plates of brass or gold.[359] Mention
is likewise made of doors entirely composed of
the precious metals; of iron also, and bronze and
ivory.
The jambs were generally of wood;[360] but likewise
sometimes of brass or marble. The doors were fastened
at first by long bars passing into the wall on both
sides;[361] and by degrees smaller bolts, hasps, latches,
and locks and keys succeeded. For example the
outer door of the Thalamos in Homer was secured
by a silver hasp, and a leathern thong passed round
the handle and tied, perhaps, in a curious knot.[362]
Doors were not usually suspended on hinges, but
turned, as they still do in the East, upon pivots
inserted above into the lintel and below into the
threshhold.[363] In many houses there were in addition
small half-doors of open wood-work,[364] which
alone were commonly closed by day, in order to
95keep the children from running out, or dogs or pigs
from entering. The doors usually consisted of a
frame-work, with four or six sunken panels, as with
us; but at Sparta, so long as the laws of Lycurgus
prevailed, they were made of simple planks fashioned
with the hatchet.[365] In the great Dorian capital the
custom was for persons desirous of entering a house
to shout aloud at the door,[366] which, at Athens,[367] was
always furnished with an elegant knocker.[368] Door-handles,
too, of costly materials and curious workmanship,[369]
bespoke even in that trifling matter the
taste of the Greeks.
The materials commonly used in the erection of
a house were stones and bricks. In the manufacture
of the latter[370] the ancients exhibited more
skill and care than we; they had bricks of a very
large size, and half bricks for filling up spaces,
which prevented the necessity of shortening them
with the trowel. Of these some were simply dried
in the sun, used chiefly in building the dwellings of
the poor.[371] At Utica in Africa there were public
inspectors of brick-kilns,[372] to prevent any from being
used which had not been made five years. In several
cities on the Mediterranean bricks were manufactured
of a porous earth, which when baked and
painted, as it may be conjectured, on the outside,
were so light that they would swim in water.[373] To
96diminish the weight of bricks, straw was introduced
into them in Syria and Egypt, which was altogether
consumed in the baking. In roofing such of their
houses as were not terraced they employed slates,
tiles, and reed-thatch.[374] Possibly, also, the wealthy
may have tiled their houses with those elegant
thin flakes of marble, with which the roofs of temples
were occasionally covered.
97
The movables in a Grecian house were divided
into classes after a very characteristic manner. First,
as a mark of the national piety, everything used in
domestic sacrifices was set apart. The second division,
placing women immediately after the gods,
comprehended the whole apparatus of female ornaments[375]
worn on solemn festivals. Next were classed
the sacred robes and military uniforms of the men;
then came the hangings, bed-furniture, and ornaments
of the harem; afterwards those of the men’s
apartments. Another division consisted of the shoes,
sandals, slippers, &c., of the family, from which we
pass to the arms and implements of war, mixed up
familiarly in a Greek house with looms, cards, spinning-wheels,
and embroidery-frames, just, as Homer
describes them in the Thalamos of Paris at Troy.
Even yet we have not reached the end of our inventory
in mere classification. The baking, cooking,
washing, and bathing vessels formed a separate
class, and so did the breakfast and dinner services,
the porcelain, the plate of silver and gold, the
mirrors, the candelabra, and all those curious articles
made use of in the toilette of the ladies.[376]
In well-regulated families a second division took
place, a separation being made of such articles as
98might be required for daily use, from those brought
forward only when routs and large parties were
given. The movables of all kinds having been
thus arranged in their classes, the next step was
to deposit every thing in its proper place.[377] The
more ordinary utensils were generally laid up in a
spacious store-room, called tholos,[378] a circular building
detached from the house, and usually terminating
in a pointed roof, whence in after ages a
sharp-crowned hat obtained among the people the
name of Tholos. When a gentleman first commenced
housekeeping, or got a new set of domestics,
he delivered into the care of the proper individuals
his kneading troughs, his kitchen utensils,
his cards, looms, spinning wheels, and so on; and,
pointing out the places where all these, when not
in use, should be placed, committed them to their
custody.
Of the holiday, or show articles, more account
was made. These, being brought forward only on
solemn festivals, or in honour of some foreign guest,
were entrusted to the immediate care of the housekeeper,
a complete list of everything having first been
taken; and it was part of her duty, when she delivered
any of these articles to the inferior domestics,
to make a note of what she gave out, and take care
they were duly returned into her keeping.[379]
But the above comprehensive glance over the articles
of furniture made use of in an Athenian gentleman’s
establishment, though it may give some notion
of the careful and economical habits of the people,
affords no conception of the splendour and magnificence
often found in a Grecian house: for, as we
have already seen, their opinions are highly erroneous
who imagine that in the Attic democracy the rich
were by any prudential or political considerations
99restrained from indulging their love of ostentation
by the utmost display they could make of wealth.[380]
In fact, not content with outstripping their neighbours
in the grandeur of their dwellings, furniture,
and dress, these persons had often the ludicrous vanity,
when they gave a large party, to excite the envy of
such dinnerless rogues as might pass, by throwing out
the feathers of game and poultry before their doors.[381]
Indeed, since the Athenians exactly resembled other
men, the exhibition of magnificence tended but too
strongly to dazzle them; so that, among the arts of
designing politicians, one generally was, to create a
popular persuasion that they possessed the means of
conferring important favours on all who obliged them.
To proceed, however, with the furniture. Though
the principal value of many articles arose from the exquisite
taste displayed in the design and workmanship,
the materials themselves, too, were often extremely
rare and costly. Porcelain, glass, crystal, ivory, amber,[382]
gold, silver, and bronze, with numerous varieties
of precious woods, were wrought up with inimitable
taste and fancy into various articles of use or luxury.
Among the decorations of the dining-room was the
side-board, which, though sometimes of iron, was more
frequently of carved wood, bronze, or wrought silver,
ornamented with the heads of satyrs and oxen.[383] Their
tables, in the Homeric age, were generally of wood,
of variegated colours, finely polished, and with ornamented
feet. Myrleanos, an obscure writer in Athenæus,
100imagines[384] they were round, that they might
resemble the disc of the sun and moon; but from
the passage in the Odyssey,[385] and the interpretation
of Eustathius, they may be inferred to have been narrow
parallelograms,[386] like our own dining-tables. The
luxury of table-cloths being unknown, the wine spilled,
&c., was cleansed away with sponges.[387] But the poet
had witnessed a superior degree of magnificence, for
he already, in the Odyssey,[388] makes mention of tables
of silver. The poor were, of course, content with the
commonest wood. But as civilisation proceeded, the
tables of the wealthy became more and more costly
in materials, and more elegant in form.
It grew to be an object of commerce, to import
from foreign countries the most curious kinds of
wood,[389] to be wrought into tables, which originally
supported on four legs, rested afterwards on three,
fancifully formed, or on a pillar and claws of ivory,
or silver, as with us. There was a celebrated species
of table manufactured in the island of Rhenea;[390]
the great, among the Persians, delighted in maple
tables with ivory feet, and, in fact, the knotted
maple appears at one time to have been regarded
as the most rare and beautiful of woods.[391] But
the rage for sumptuous articles of furniture of this
kind did not reach its full height until Roman
times, when a single table of citron wood
(Gorgeous feasts
On citron tables or Atlantic stone)
[392]
101sometimes cost six or seven thousand pounds sterling.
Already, however, in the best ages of Greece,
their tables were inlaid with silver, brass, or ivory,
with feet in the form of lions, leopards, or other
wild beasts.[393]
In more early times, before the effeminate Oriental
habit of reclining at meals obtained,[394] the
Greeks made use of chairs which were of various
kinds, some being formed of more, others of less
costly materials, but all beautiful and elegant in
form, as we may judge from those which adorn our
own drawing-rooms, entirely fashioned after Grecian
models. The thrones of the gods represented in
works of art, however richly ornamented, are simply
arm-chairs with upright backs, an example of which
occurs in a carnelian in the Orleans Collection,[395]
where Apollo is represented playing on the seven-stringed
lyre. This chair has four legs with tigers’
feet, a very high upright back, and is ornamented
with a sculptured car and horses. They had no
Epicurean notions of their deities, and never presented
them to the eye of the public lounging in
an easy chair, which would have suggested the idea
of infirmity. On the contrary, they are full of force
and energy, and sit erect on their thrones, as ready
to succour their worshipers at a moment’s warning.
In the Homeric age these were richly carved, like
the divans, adorned with silver studs, and so high
that they required a footstool.[396] The throne of the
Persian kings was of massive gold, and stood beneath
a purple canopy, supported by four slender
golden columns thickly crusted with jewels.
102Bedsteads were generally of common wood such as
deal,[397] bottomed sometimes with planks, pierced to
admit air, sometimes with ox-hide thongs,[398] which
in traversing each other left numerous open spaces
between them. Odysseus’s bedstead, which the hero
was sufficient joiner to manufacture with his own
hands, was made of olive-wood, inlaid with silver,
gold, and ivory. Sometimes the bed was supported
by a sort of netting of strong cord, stretched across
the bedstead, and made fast all round.[399] Later
ages witnessed far greater luxury,—bedsteads of
solid silver,[400] or ivory embossed with figures wrought
with infinite art and delicacy,[401] or of precious woods
carved, with feet of ivory or amber.[402] Occasionally,
also, they were veneered with Indian tortoiseshell,
inlaid with gold.[403] This taste would appear to have
flowed from the East, where among the kings of
Persia still greater magnificence was witnessed even
in very early times. Thus, speaking of the royal
feast celebrated at Susa, the Scripture says, there
were in the court of the garden of the king’s
palace “white, green, and blue hangings, fastened
with cords of fine linen and purple to silver
rings, and pillars of marble. The beds were of
gold and silver, upon a pavement of red, and
blue, and white, and black marble.” A similar
style of grandeur is attributed by Hellenic writers
to the Persian king, who, according to Chares,[404] reclined
in his palace on a couch shaded by a spreading
103golden vine, the grape clusters of which were
imitated by jewels of various colours.
Four-post bedsteads were in use in remoter ages,
as appears from a white sardonyx in the Orleans
Collection,[405] representing the surprisal of Ares and
Aphrodite, by Hephæstos. There is a low floating
vallance fastened up in festoons, the tester is roof-shaped,
and the pillars terminate in fanciful capitals.
The figure of an eagle adorns the corners of the
bedstead below. From a painting on the walls of
Pompeii we discover, that the peculiar sort of bedstead
at present found almost universally in France
was likewise familiar to the ancients, made exactly
after the same fashion, and raised about the same
height above the floor. With regard to the beds
themselves they were at different times manufactured
from very different materials, and those of
some parts of Greece enjoyed a peculiar reputation.
From a phrase in Homer,[406] it would appear that, in
his times, beds were stuffed in Thessaly with very
fine grass. Those of Chios and Miletos were famous[407]
throughout Greece. In other parts of the country,
persons of peculiar effeminacy slept on beds of sponge.[408]
Sicily was famous for its pillows, as were also several
other Doric countries. At Athens the rich were accustomed
to sleep upon very soft beds, placed on
bedsteads considerably above the floor;[409] and sometimes,
it has been supposed, adorned with coverlets
of dressed peacocks’ skins with the feathers on.[410]
But the Greeks appear to have consulted their
ease, and sunk more completely into softness and
effeminacy, in proportion as they approached the
East. Among the Peloponnesians most persons lived
hard and lay hard; greater refinement and luxury
104prevailed in Attica; but in Ionia and many of the
Ægæan isles the great—although there were exceptions
as in the case of Attalos—fell little short in
self-indulgence of Median or Persian satraps. Some
idea may be formed of their habits in this respect
from the description of a Paphian prince’s bed by
Clearchos of Soli.[411] Over the soft mattresses supported
by a silver-footed bedstead, was flung a short
grained Sardian carpet of the most expensive kind.
A coverlet of downy texture succeeded, and upon
this was cast a costly counterpane of Amorginian
purple. Cushions, striped or variegated with the
richest purple, supported his head, while two soft
Dorian pillows[412] of pale pink gently raised his feet.
In this manner habited in a milk-white chlamys the
prince reclined. Their bolsters in form resembled
our own;[413] but the pillows were usually square, as
in France, though occasionally rounded off at both
ends, and covered with richly chequered or variegated
muslins. To prevent the fine wool or whatever
else they were stuffed with from getting into
heaps, mattresses were sewn through as now, and
carefully tufted that the packthread might not break
through the ticking.[414]
Among the Orientals it is common at present for
persons to sleep in their day apparel; but even in
the heroic ages it was already customary in Greece
to undress on going to bed. When Agamemnon
is roused before dawn by the delusive dream, the
whole process of the morning toilette is described.
First, says the poet, he donned his soft chiton which
was new and very handsome; next his pelisse; after
which he bound on his elegant sandals and suspended
his silver-hilted sword from his shoulder. Thus
accoutred he issued forth, sceptre in hand, towards
the ships.[415]
105In Syria, children luxuriously educated are said to
have been rocked in their cradles wrapped in coverlets
of Milesian wool.[416] The sheep of Miletos were, in
fact, the Merinos of antiquity; and their wool being
celebrated for its fineness and softness, it was not
only employed in manufacturing the best cloths, but
also in stuffing the mattresses of kings and other
great personages who thought much of their ease.
And as the vulgar imagine they become great by
habiting themselves in garments similar to those of
their princes, like the honest man who sought wisdom
through reading by Epictetus’ lamp, the stuffs,
couches, and coverlets of Miletos got into great vogue
among the ancients. Virgil, Cicero, Servius, Columella,
and many other writers speak accordingly of
their excellence, and their testimonies have, with
wonderful industry, been collected by the learned
Bochart.[417]
But though Miletos had a reputation for this kind
of manufacture, it by no means enjoyed a monopoly.
The scarlet coverings of Sardis, and the variegated
stuffs of Cyprus, produced by the famous weaver Akesas
and his son Helicon,[418] appear in many instances to
have obtained a preference over all others. Pathymias,
too, the Egyptian, distinguished himself in the
same line.[419]
All these bed-coverings were commonly perfumed
with fragrant essences,[420] for which reason the voluptuous
poets of antiquity dwell with a sort of rapture
on the pleasure of rolling about in bed. Ephippos
exclaims:—
“How I delight
To spring upon the dainty coverlets;
Breathing the perfume of the rose, and steeped
In tears of myrrh!”
106Aristophanes, likewise, and Sophron, the mimographer,
make mention of these fragrant counterpanes,
which were extremely costly, and inwrought, according
to the latter, with figures of birds.[421] Elsewhere
Athenæus relates that the Persian carpets contained
representations of men, animals, and monsters.[422] Their
blankets, like our own, were plain white; but even
so far back as the heroic ages, the upper coverings, as
being partly designed for show, were of rich and various
colours.[423]
There seems to be good ground for believing, that
if the Greeks did not borrow their philosophy from
the East, they at least derived from them many of the
vain and luxurious habits which at length rendered
that philosophy of none effect. No one appears to
have paid a single visit to Persia, or Syria, or Egypt,
without bringing back along with him some pestilent
new freak in the matter of dress or furniture, wholly
at variance with republican simplicity. We might
adduce numerous anecdotes in proof of this. For the
present we confine ourselves to the following. Among
the Persians, renowned in all ages for sensual indulgences,
it was judged of so much importance to
enjoy soft and elegantly arranged beds, that in great
houses persons were employed who attended only to
this. An anecdote in illustration has been preserved
by Athenæus. Timagoras, or, according to Phanias,
Entimos of Gortyna, envying Themistocles his reception
at the court of Persia, undertook himself a toad-eating
expedition to that country. Artaxerxes, whose
ear could tolerate more flatterers than one, took the
Cretan into favour, and made him a present of a
superb marquee, a silver-footed bedstead, with costly
furniture, and, along with them, sent a slave, as a
Turkish pasha would send a cook or a pipe-lighter,
because, in his opinion, the Greeks who prepared
107sleeping-places for so many Persians at Marathon and
Platæa, understood nothing of bed-making.
Entimos evidently excelled the great Athenian
in the arts of a courtier. In fact, he was the very
prototype of Hajji Baba, and enjoyed even still greater
influence over the Shah than the illustrious barber’s
son of Ispahan. Charmed by his cajolery, Artaxerxes
invited him to his private table, where, usually,
none but princes of the blood were admitted,[424] an
honour, as Phanias assures us, which no other Greek
ever enjoyed. For, though Timagoras of Athens
performed kou-tou before the throne,[425] whereby he
obtained great consideration among a nation of slaves,
and was hanged when he got home, he was not invited
to hob-and-nob with his majesty, but only
enjoyed the distinction of having certain dishes sent
him from the king’s table. To Antalcidas, the Spartan,
Artaxerxes sent his crown dipped in liquid perfume,
an agreeable compliment, but which he more
than once paid to Entimos, whose extraordinary favour
at court in the long run, however, awakened
the envy of the Persians. The canopy of the marquee
presented to this Cretan was spangled with
bright flowers, and, among the other articles of which
the imperial gift consisted, were a throne of massive
silver, a gilded parasol, several golden cups crusted
with jewels, a hundred maple-tables with ivory feet,
108a hundred goblets of silver, several vases of the same
precious metal, a hundred female slaves, an equal
number of youths, with six thousand pieces of gold,
besides what was furnished him for his daily expenditure.[426]
A gentleman travelling in Ireland witnessed the
ingenuity of that ready-witted people in applying the
same thing to various uses: first, he saw the tablecloth,
on which he had eaten a good supper, transferred
as a sheet to his bed, and, next morning, his
kind hostess, offering her services to put him in the
right way, converted the same article into a mantle,
which she wrapped about her shoulders. The Greeks
were almost equally ingenious. With them what
was a cloak by day became sometimes a counterpane
at night,[427] in addition, perhaps, to the ordinary
bed-clothes; for it is clear they loved to be
warm, from the somewhat reproachful allusion of
Strepsiades in the “Clouds” to the five sisyræ,[428] rolled
snugly up in which, his son, Pheidippides, could
sleep while thoughts of his debts bit the old man
like so many bugs, and roused him hours before
day to consult his ledgers. All kinds of stromata
were, in Plato’s time, divided into two classes, first,
coverings for the body, such as cloaks, mantles, and
so on; secondly, bed-clothes, properly so called.
The walls of their chambers were frequently hung
with Milesian tapestry, a custom to which Amphis
alludes in his Odysseus:
A. Milesian hangings line your walls, you scent
Your limbs with sweetest perfume, royal myndax
[429]
Piled on the burning censor, fills the air
With costly fragrance.
B. Mark you that, my friend!
Knew you before of such a fumigation?
[430]
109Mention is likewise made among the ancients of
purple tapestry, inwrought with pearls and gold.[431]
Carthage enjoyed celebrity for its manufacture of
carpets and variegated pillows,[432] a piece of luxury
which, as we have seen above, had already been
introduced in the heroic ages; for Homer, in innumerable
passages, speaks of rare and costly carpets,
and these were not only spread over couches and
seats, but over the floor likewise.[433] Rolled up, they
would occasionally appear to have served for pillows.
The manufacture of carpets had, moreover, been carried
to considerable perfection, for the poet speaks
of some with a soft pile on both sides, which were
evidently very splendid.[434] Theocritus,[435] too, in his
Adoniazusæ, enumerates, among the luxuries of the
youthful God,
Carpets of purple,
softer far than sleep,
[436]
Woven in Milesian looms.
But in nothing did the Greeks display a more gorgeous
or costly taste than in what may be termed
their plate, which was not only fabricated of the rarest
materials, but wrought likewise with all the elaborateness
and delicacy and richness of design within
the reach of art. Among the Macedonians, after
110their Eastern conquests, gold plate appears not to
have been uncommon; for at the grand supper described
by Hippolochos in his letter to Lynceus, every
guest is said to have used it.[437] The predilection for
this sort of magnificence they acquired in Asia, where,
at a banquet given to Alexander, the whole dessert
was brought in tastefully covered with gold-leaf.[438] In
the reign of his father, Philip, the precious metals
were rare in Macedonia. Indeed, that crafty old
monarch, possessing but one gold cup in the world,
had so good an opinion of his courtiers that, to prevent
their thieving it, he slept every night with it
under his pillow.[439] Gold was, more early, plentiful in
Attica. Alcibiades, with tastes and habits unsuited
to a democracy, carried so far his love of display as
to make use of thuribles, or censers, and wash-hand
basins of pure gold.[440] But the ostentatious son of
Clinias, though extravagant, was in this respect only
a type of his nation. Every rich citizen of Athens
aimed at the same degree of splendour; and, in describing
his town-house or favourite villa, might, with
little alteration, have adopted the language of the
poet:—
——“My house within the city
Is richly furnished with plate and gold,
Basins and ewers to lave her dainty hands:
My hangings all of Tyrian tapestry.
In ivory coffers have I stuffed my crowns;
In cypress chests my arras, counterpanes,
Costly apparel, tents, and canopies,
Fine linen, Turkey cushions bossed with pearl,
Vallance of Venice, gold in needle-work,
Pewter and brass, and all things that belong
To house or housekeeping.”
Socrates, in the Republic, speaking of what the
prevailing fashion required to be found in a city,
makes out a list of good things, not much inferior
upon the whole to Shakspeare’s,—beds, tables, and
111other furniture; dainties of all kinds; perfumes, unguents,
sauces, &c.; to which the philosopher adds
apparel, shoes, pictures, tapestry, ivory, and gold:[441]
and these rare materials, as farther on he observes,
were wrought into utensils for domestic purposes.
One of the most plentifully furnished departments
of a Greek house was the Kulikeion, or “cupboard,”
usually closed in front with a curtain,[442] where they
kept their goblets, cups, and drinking-horns, under
the protection of a statue of Hermes, who, as god
of thieves, would, it was supposed, be respected by
his children. The form and workmanship of these
materials varied, no doubt, according to the taste and
means of the possessor; but they were in general distinguished
for the elegance of their outline, the grace
and originality of the sculpture, the fineness, delicacy,
and minute finish of the execution. It is well
known, as an able antiquarian[443] has remarked, to what
an excess the luxury of the table was carried among
the ancients, and how much they surpassed us in the
dimensions, the massiveness, the workmanship, the
quality, and the variety of their drinking apparatus.
Many persons, however, seem chiefly to have valued
their plate as a mark of their wealth and magnificence;
among whom may be reckoned Pythias of
Phigaleia, who, when dying, commanded the following
epitaph to be inscribed upon his tomb:—
Here jolly Pythias lies,
A right honest man, and wise,
Who of goblets had very great store,
Of amber, silver, gold,
All glorious to behold,
In number ne’er equalled before.
[444]
Amber goblets not being, I believe, in fashion
among the modern nations of Europe, some doubt
112may be experienced respecting the veracity of our
friend of Phigaleia; but the ancients had other gobletary
legends to bring forward in support of it. Helen,[445]
it is said, justly proud of her beautiful bosom, dedicated
in one of the temples of Rhodes, as a votive
offering, an amber goblet, exactly of the size and
shape of one of her breasts, which, had it come down
to posterity, might have furnished artists with a perfect
model of that part of the female form. However
this may be, the ancients, in remote ages, set a great
value on their cups, particularly such as were considered
heir-looms in the family, and laid apart to be
used only on extraordinary occasions. Hence Œdipos,
in the old Cyclic poet, is seized with fierce anger at
his son, who had, contrary to his will, brought forth
his old hereditary goblets to be used at an ordinary
entertainment.
113Then Polyneices of the golden locks,
Sprung from the Gods, before his father placed
A table all of silver, which had once
Been Cadmus’s, next filled the golden bowl
With richest wine. At this old Œdipos,
Seeing the honoured relics of his sire
Profaned to vulgar uses, roused to anger,
Pronounced fierce imprecations, wished his sons
Might live no more in amity together,
But plunge in feuds and slaughters, and contend
For their inheritance: and the Furies heard.
[446]
Agathocles, tyrant of Sicily, appears to have been
an amateur of cups, and would sometimes while exhibiting
his collection to his friends make a good-humoured
allusion to his original occupation. “These
golden vessels,” said he, “have been made out of those
earthenware ones which I formerly manufactured.”[447]
Drinking-bowls in fact made no inconsiderable figure
in ancient times. They were bestowed as the prizes
in gymnastic contests, and in Greece men boxed and
wrestled for the cup as horses run for it in England.
Parasites, like the jester of Louis XIV., used
sometimes to carry home the cups and dishes set
before them at dinner; but the tables were often
turned when the subject gave and the prince pocketed
the dole.
A curious legend has been preserved to us connected
with the subject of cups. Several princes
uniting, in remote times, to send a colony to Lesbos,
were commanded by an oracle to cast a virgin,
during their voyage, into the sea, as a sacrifice
to Poseidon. Obedience, in those superstitious ages,
was seldom refused to such injunctions. The maiden
was precipitated into the waves, but Enallos, one of
the chiefs, in whom love had quenched the reverence
114for oracles, immediately plunged in to save her. Neither
the chief, however, nor the virgin appeared again,
and the fleet proceeded. The remainder of the tradition
may be illustrated by an event said to have
taken place in the Tonga islands.[448] They were probably
near some uninhabited isle, and instead of
rising to the surface of the sea, emerged into a
cavern elevated considerably above its level, and
opening perhaps upon the land. “God tempers the
wind to the shorn lamb,” says a modern writer, and
so Enallos found it. By means unrevealed in the
ancient narrative, the hero and his bride continued
to subsist on the rock, and many years afterwards,
when the colony was already flourishing, he one
day presented himself before his old friends at Methymna,
and entertained them with a very romantic
account of his residence among the Nereids at the
bottom of the sea, where he was honoured with the
care of Poseidon’s horses when sent out to grass.
At length, however, getting on the back of a large
wave it bore him upwards and he escaped from the
deep, bearing in his hand a golden cup, the metal
of which was so marvellously beautiful that in comparison
ordinary gold appeared no better than brass.[449]
Even the loftiest and least worldly-minded of the
Homeric heroes, Achilles, set great value on a favourite
drinking-cup, which he preserved for his own
particular use, and for pouring out libations to Zeus
alone. Priam[450] was careful to include a rare goblet
in the ransom of Hector’s body, and a similar gift
aided in alluring Alcmena from the paths of virtue.[451]
But the most famous bowl of antiquity was that of
Heracles, which, more capacious than the barber’s
basin in Don Quixote, served its illustrious owner in
the double capacity of a drinking-cup and a canoe;
for when he had quenched his thirst, he could set
115his bowl afloat, and, leaping into it, steer to any part
of the world he pleased. Some, indeed, speak of it
as a borrowed article, belonging originally to the
Sun, and in which the god used nightly to traverse
the ocean from West to East.[452]
To pass, however, over the goblets of mythology.
It was fashionable to possess plate of this kind finely
sculptured with historical arguments; and history has
preserved the names of Cimon and Athenocles, two
artists who excelled in this style of engraving. These
cups were sometimes of silver gilt, sometimes of massive
gold crusted with jewels.[453] In addition to the
two artists named above, we may enumerate Crates,
Stratonicos, Myrmecides of Miletos, Callicrates the
Lacedemonian, and Mys, whose “Cup of Heracles,”
celebrated in antiquity, had represented upon it the
storming of Ilion, with this inscription,
Troy’s lofty towers by Grecians sacked behold!
Parrhasios’ draught, by Mys engraved in gold.
[454]
The names by which the ancients distinguished
their several kinds of goblets are too numerous to
be here given. Some were curious—“Amalthea’s
Horn,” “The Year,” &c. Rustics made use of two-handled
wooden bowls in which, when thirsty, they
drew fresh milk from the cow in the fields.[455] There
was a big-bellied cup with a narrow neck which
being shaped like a purse, participated with this
very necessary article in the name of Aryballos.[456]
Glass cups of much beauty were manufactured in
great abundance at Alexandria. Among these was
the Baucalis, mentioned by Sopater the parodist, who
says:—
116’Tis sweet in early morn to cool the lips
With pure fresh water from the gushing fount,
Mingled with honey in the Baucalis,
When one o’er night has made too free with wine,
And feels sharp thirst.
[457]
The glass-workers of Alexandria procured earthenware
vessels from all parts of the world, which they
used as models for their cups. Even the great
sculptor Lysippos did not disdain to employ his genius
in the invention of a new kind of vase. Having
made a collection of vessels of many various shapes,
and diligently studied the whole, he hit upon a form
entirely new, and presented the model to Cassander,
who having just then founded the city of Cassandria,
was ambitious of originating an invention of this
kind. He was desirous, perhaps, of recommending
by the elegance of his drinking-cups the Mendæan
wine exported in great quantities from his city.[458]
There was a peculiar kind of cup called Grammateion,
from the letters of gold chased upon its
exterior.[459] Alexis mentions one of this sort in the
following lines:
A. But let me first describe the cup; ’twas round,
Old, broken-eared, and precious small besides,
Having indeed some letters on’t.
B. Yes letters;
Eleven, and all of gold, forming the name
Of Saviour Zeus.
A. Tush! no, some other god.
[460]
A very handsome sort of cup was imported from
Sidon. It had two handles, and was ornamented with
small figures in relief. Drinking-vases were also
formed from the large horns of the Molossian and
Pœonian oxen; and these articles were commonly
rimmed with silver or gold.[461] Small cups were made
117little account of. There was even one kind of bowl
which, for its enormous capacity, was called the Elephant.
A. If this hold not enough, see the boy comes
Bearing the Elephant!
B. Immortal gods!
What thing is that?
A. A double-fountained cup,
The workmanship of Alcon; it contains
A very celebrated cup among the Athenians was
the Thericlean,[463] originally invented by Thericles, a
Corinthian potter, contemporary with Aristophanes.
This ware was black, highly varnished, with gilt
edges;[464] but the name came afterwards to be applied
to any vessel of the same form from whatever
materials manufactured. There were accordingly
Thericlea of gold with wooden stands. The cups
of this kind, made at Athens, being very expensive,
an inferior sort, in imitation, was produced at Rhodes,
which, as far more economical, had a great run among
the humbler classes. The Thericlean was a species
of deep chalice with two handles, and bulging but
little at the sides. Theophrastus[465] speaks of Thericlea
turned from the Syrian Turpentine tree, the
wood of which being black and taking a fine polish,
it was impossible at a glance to distinguish them
from those of earthenware. The paintings on these
utensils appear to have been various. Sometimes
a single wreath of ivy encircled them immediately beneath
the golden rim; but it seems occasionally to
have been covered with representations of animals,
which gave rise to a forced and false etymology of
the name.[466]
118We have already observed, that the use of drinking-horns[467]
was not unknown to the ancients. In fact,
it seems, in very remote ages, to have been customary
to convert bulls’ horns into cups with very little
preparation; and the practice of quaffing wine from
this rude kind of goblet had by some been supposed
to have suggested the idea to artists of representing
Bacchos with horns, and to poets the epithet of the
Bull Dionysos. He was moreover worshiped at
Cyzicos under the form of a bull. Afterwards, as
taste and luxury advanced, these simple vessels were
exchanged for horns of silver, which Pindar attributes
to the Centaurs.[468] Xenophon[469] found drinking-horns
among the Paphlagonians, and afterwards even
in the palace of the Thracian king Seuthes. Æschylus
speaks of silver horns, with lids of gold, in use
among the Perrhæbians, and Sophocles, in his Pandora,
makes mention of drinking-horns of massive
gold. Philip of Macedon was accustomed among
his friends to drink from the common horn. Golden
horns were found among the inhabitants of Cythera.
Horns of silver were in use at Athens; and, among
the articles enumerated as sold at a public auction,
mention is made of one of these vessels of a twisted
form.
Mirrors constituted another article of Hellenic
luxury. These were sometimes of brass,[470] whence
the proverb:
As forms by brass, so minds by wine are mirrored.
[471]
The best, however, until those of glass came into
use, were made of silver or of a mixed metal, the exact
119composition of which is not now known. Another
kind was fashioned from a species of carbuncle found
near the city of Orchomenos,[472] in Arcadia. Glass
mirrors[473] also came early into use, chiefly manufactured,
at the outset, by the Phœnicians of Sidon.
The hand-mirrors were usually circular,[474] and set in
costly frames. To prevent their being speedily tarnished
they were, when not in use, carefully enclosed
in cases.[475]
There were mirrors, too, of polished silver, fashioned
so as to magnify immensely the objects they reflected.[476]
They invented also large cups containing within
many diminutive mirrors, so that when any one looked
into them, his eye was met by a multitude of faces
all resembling his own.[477] In a temple of Hera in
Arcadia, was a mirror fixed in the wall, wherein
the spectator could at first scarcely, if at all, discern
his own image, while the throne of the goddess and
the statues of the other deities ranged around were
most brilliantly reflected.reflected.[478] Many sorts of mirrors
appear to have been made for the purpose of playing
off practical jokes. For example, looking in one
of these, a handsome woman would find her visage
transformed into that of a Gorgon, so as to appear
terrible even to herself. Others again were so very
flattering, that a half-starved barber, viewing his
figure therein, appeared to be gifted with the thewes
of a Heracles. Another sort distorted the countenance,
or inverted it, or showed merely the half.
Religion was the nurse of the fine arts, and first
gave rise, not only to sculpture and painting, but
120also to those private collections of statues and pictures[479]
in which we discover the germs of our modern
galleries[480] and museums. The first step was
made towards these when the Greek set up the
images of his household gods upon his hearth.
Thence, step by step, he proceeded, improving the
appearance, enriching the materials, increasing the
number of his domestic deities, with which niche
after niche was filled, till his private dwelling became
in some sort a temple. The religious feeling,
no doubt, made way, in many cases, for a
passion for show, or a nascent taste for the beautiful;
so that rude figures in terra-cotta, wood, or
stone, were gradually replaced by exquisite statues
in ivory, gold, or silver,[481] or the fairest marble,
breathing beauty and life, with eyes of gems, and
clothed with majesty as with a garment. Hence
flowed the passion for mimetic representations and
all the plastic arts. The gods were transferred from
the fireside to the temple, to the agora, to the
senate-house, to the innumerable porticoes everywhere
abounding in Greece.[482]
On their superb candelabra,[483] &c., matter for a
curious volume might be collected. The lamps in
common use,[484] though sometimes very beautiful in
shape, were of course fictile,[485] such as we find in
great numbers among the ruins of Greek cities, both
in the mother-country, and in their Egyptian and
other colonies. Sometimes, however, they were of
bronze, silver, or massive gold. A very beautiful
121specimen in this last metal was found, by Lord
Belmore, among the ruins of an Egyptian temple, a
short time before my visit to the Nile. In many
houses were magnificent chandeliers, suspended from
the ceiling, with numerous branches, which filled
the apartments[486] with a flood of light. The most
remarkable article of this kind which I remember
was that set up as a votive offering to Hestia, in
the Prytaneion of Tarentum, by Dionysios the
Younger, which held as many lamps as there are
days in the year.[487] Among people of humble condition
wooden chandeliers, or candlesticks, were in
use.[488] In remoter ages they burned slips of pine-branches,
the bark of various trees, &c., instead of
lamps. They were acquainted with the use of horn
and wicker lanterns.[489]
Another kind of decoration of Greek houses we
must not overlook,—their armour and implements
of war,[490] with which the poet Alcæos[491] loved to adorn
his chambers, though, like Paris, he cared little to
make any other use of them. “My spacious mansion,”
exclaims he, “gleams throughout with brazen
arms. Even along the ceiling are ranged
the ornaments of Ares, glittering helmets, surmounted
by white nodding plumes; greaves of polished
brass are suspended on the walls, with cuirasses
of linen, while, here and there, about my
apartments, are scattered hollow shields. Elsewhere,
you behold scimitars of Chalcis, and baldricks,
and the short vest which we wear beneath our
armour.”[492] Besides the articles enumerated by the
poet, there were shield-cases, sheaths for their spears,
122quivers curiously adorned, feathered arrows, and bows
of polished horn, tipped at either end with gold.
From these gorgeous and costly commodities the
reader, we fear, will be reluctant to accompany us
into the kitchen, where we must pick our way among
kneading-troughs, pots and pans, Delphian cutlery[493]
and honey-jars.[494] But as without these the warriors,
as Homer himself acknowledges, could make but
little use of their weapons, it is absolutely necessary
we should inquire into their cooking conveniences.
To commence, however, we must allow[495] Clearchos
of Soli, to enumerate a few of the articles found
among the furniture of this important part of the
house. There was, first, says he, a three-legged
table, then a chytra, or earthen pot, which, as in
France, was always preferred for making soup. It
was not, however, of coarse brown ware, as with
us; for, Socrates, in his conversation with Hippias
on the Beautiful, observes that, when properly made,
round, smooth, and well-baked, the chytra was very
handsome, particularly that large sort which contained
upwards of seven gallons. It had two
handles, and was evidently glazed.[496] In stirring the
chytra while boiling, the Attic cook made choice
of a ladle turned from the wood of the fig-tree,
which, it is said, communicated an agreeable flavour
to the soup, and, in Socrates’s opinion, was preferable
to one of gold which, being very weighty,
might chance to crack the pot, spill the broth, and
extinguish the fire.[497]
There was used in the kitchen a sort of candelabrum,
or lamp-stand, which Clearchos merely names.
Then followed the mortar, the stool, the sponge,
the cauldron, the kneading-trough, the mug, the oil-flask,
123the rush-basket, the large knife, the cleaver,[498]
the wooden platter, the bowl, and the larding-pin.[499]
Pollux, who had, doubtless, served an apprenticeship
to Marcus Aurelius’s cook, gives a formidable
list of culinary utensils, from which we must be content
to select the most remarkable. First, however,
we shall show how important a piece of sponge was
to an Athenian cook. It often saved him his dinner;
for, if any of his stewpans, crocks, or kettles,
had suffered from the embraces of Hephæstos,
in other words, had got a hole burnt in them, a
bit of sponge was drawn into the aperture, and on
went the cooking operations as before.[500] In some
houses culinary utensils were regarded as a nuisance,
the presence of which was not to be constantly endured,
and, accordingly, when the master desired to
treat his friends, cookey was despatched early in
the morning to hire pots and kettles of a broker.
To this custom Alexis alludes in his Exile:
How fertile in new tricks is Chæriphon,
To sup scot-free and everywhere find welcome!
Spies he a broker’s door with pots to let?
There from the earliest dawn he takes his stand,
To see whose cook arrives; from him he learns
Who ’tis that gives the feast,—flies to the house,
Watches his time, and, when the yawning door
Gapes for the guests, glides in among the first.
[501]
But we must not pass over the Pyreion or Trypanon,[502]
the clumsy contrivance which supplied the
place of our lucifers, phosphorus, and tinder-boxes.
This was a hollow piece of wood, in which another
124piece was turned rapidly till sparks of fire flew out.[503]
Soldiers carried these fire-kindlers along with them
as a necessary part of their kit.
The ordinary fuel of the Greeks consisted chiefly
of wood and charcoal,[504] (kept in rush or wicker baskets,)
though the use of mineral coal was not altogether
unknown to them.[505] In Attica, where wood was always
scarce, they economically made use of vine-cuttings,[506]
and even the green branches of the fig tree
with the leaves on.[507] The charcoal of Acharnæ, the
best probably in the country, was sometimes prepared
from the scarlet oak.[508] To prevent the wood,
used in their saloons, halls, and drawing-rooms from
smoking, it was often boiled[509] in water or steeped in
dregs of oil. The use of the bellows[510] was known
in Hellas from the remotest antiquity. They had
likewise a kind of osier flap, with a handle, and
shaped like a fan, which at times supplied the place
of a pair of bellows.
There were chopping-blocks[511] both of wood and
stone, mortars,[512] fish-kettles, frying-pans, and spits of
all dimensions,[513] some being so diminutive that thrushes
and other small birds could be roasted on them.
Their ends in the heroic ages rested on stone hobs,
but afterwards andirons were invented, probably of
fanciful shape as in modern France. Occasionally
they would appear to have been manufactured of
lead. To these we may add the ovens, the bean
and barley-roasters, the sieves of bronze and other
materials, the wine-strainers in the form of colanders,
the crate for earthern-ware, and the chafing-dish.[514]
125
Having described the implements with which a
Greek meal was prepared, let us next inquire of
what materials it consisted, and how it was eaten.
There will be no occasion in pursuing this investigation
to adhere to any very strict method. It will probably
be sufficient to make a few broad divisions and
a flexible outline which we can fill up as the materials
fall in our way.
What the original inhabitants of Hellas ate might
no doubt be satisfactorily inferred from the accounts
we possess of nations still existing in the same state
of civilisation. But it is nevertheless curious to examine
their traditions relating to the subject. Ælian,
who has preserved many notices of remote antiquity,
gives a list of various kinds of food, which, as
he would appear to think, constituted the chief, if
not the whole, sustenance of several ancient nations.
The Arcadians lived, he says, upon acorns; the Argives
upon pears, the Athenians upon figs;[515] the wild
pear-tree furnished the Tirynthians with their favourite
food; a sort of cane was the chief dainty of the
Indians; of the Karamanians[516] the date; millet of
the Mæotæ and Sauromatæ; while the Persians[517] delighted
chiefly in cardamums and pistachio nuts.[518]
126The tradition that while some degree of civilisation
already existed in the East, many tribes of
Hellas still subsisted upon acorns, has given rise
to much curious disquisition. It is abundantly clear,
however, that the fruit of our English oak is not
what is meant; for, upon this, no one who has
made the experiment will for one moment imagine
that man could subsist; but every kind of production
comprehended by the Greeks under the term
“acorn,” (βάλανος). Gerard, an old English botanist,
enumerates chestnuts among acorns, and Xenophon
calls dates “the acorns of the palm-tree.” The
mast, however, of a tree common in Greece, would,
as Mitford thinks, afford a not unwholesome nourishment,
though he is quite right in supposing that
it could not have been a favourite food in more
civilised times.[519] While upon the subject of acorns,
this ingenious and able writer appears disposed to
make somewhat merry with a certain project of
Socrates. If we rightly comprehend him, which
very possibly we do not, he means to accuse the
philosopher of reducing the citizens of his airy republic
to very short commons indeed,[520] nothing but
a little beech-mast, and a few myrtle-berries. This
borders strongly on the notion of the comic writer,
who describes the Athenians as living on air and
hope. But though abstemious enough, Socrates
was not so unreasonable as to require even his Utopians
to fight and philosophise upon a diet so scanty.
127Before he comes to the mast and the myrtle-berries,
we find him enumerating wheaten and barley bread,
salt, olives, cheese, and truffles, together with pulse
and all such herbs as the fields spontaneously produce.
For a dessert he would indulge them with
figs, chickpeas, and beans, myrtle-berries, and beech-mast,
or chestnuts roasted in the fire. Plato was
aware how the luxurious wits of his time would
turn up their noses at such primitive diet, and therefore
brings in Glaucon inquiring,—“If you were
founding a polity of swine, what other food would
you provide for them?”[521] Pausanias remarks, however,
that acorns long continued to be a common
article of food in Arcadia,[522] but only those of the
fagus.[523]
If we may credit some writers the ancient inhabitants
of Hellas made use of food much more
revolting than acorns, having been, in fact, cannibals
who devoured each other. There, no doubt,
existed among the Greeks of later times traditions
of a state of society in which human flesh was
eaten by certain fierce and lawless individuals, such
as Polyphemos, but nothing in their literature can
authorise us to infer that the practice was ever
general. Superstition seems on very extraordinary
occasions to have impelled them into the guilt of
human sacrifice, when the officiating priests, and,
perhaps, some few others, probably tasted of the
entrails, and Galen had conversed with individuals
128who had been led by mere curiosity to sup on man’s
flesh, and found its flavour to resemble that of tender
beef.[524] But instances of this kind prove nothing;
for how often does it not happen that mariners are
even now driven by distressful circumstances to
slaughter and eat their companions at sea! And
yet shall we on this account pass for anthropophagi
with posterity?
The Greeks, however, were not content with one
set of traditions, or upon the whole inclined to give
currency to the most gloomy. On the contrary,
their poets casting backward the light of their imagination,
and kindling up the landscapes of the far
past, called up the vision of the golden age, when
neither the domestic hearth[525] nor the altars of the
gods were stained with blood, and the fruits of the
field,—milk, honey, cheese, and butter sufficed to
sustain life. But we must escape from these shadowy
times, and come down to the age of beef
and mutton.
Food is, with great precision, divided by Aristotle
into moist and dry, that is, into meat and drink.[526]
A classification, the credit of which, as Feith contends,
belongs to Homer.[527] In this poet, bread (σίτος),
the principal article of provision, is made indiscriminately
both from wheat and barley, though the
latter grain is thought to have been first in use.[528]
Herodotus found, in the matter of bread, a peculiar
taste among the Egyptians; barley and wheat they
despised, though in no country are finer produced
129than in Egypt; giving, very strangely, the preference
to the olyra, by some supposed to be the
spelt, but more probably Syrian dhourra, ears of
which I observed sculptured on the interior of
the pronaos of Leto’s temple at Esneh. Bread, in
the Homeric age, was brought to table in a reed
basket, the use of silver bread-baskets, or trays, not
having been then, as Donatus thinks, introduced.
But in this the learned commentator is mistaken;
or, if they had no silver trays, at least they had
them of brass and gold, to match their tables of
massive silver.[529]
Next to bread, flesh, in the heroic ages, was the
greatest stay-stomach, particularly beef, kid, mutton,
and pork. They had not, however, as yet discovered
many ways of cooking it. Nearly all their
culinary ingenuity reduced itself in fact to roasting
and boiling, a circumstance which led Athenæus,[530]
and the president Goguet to look back with great
pity and concern on these unhappy ages when even
princes, generally gourmands, were deprived of the
supreme felicity of dining on ragouts, soups, and
boiled brains. Servius,[531] too, and Varro are inclined
to participate in this feeling of commiseration, and
130the latter observes, that among their own ancestors
people were originally compelled to dine on roast
meat, though in the course of time the arts of boiling
and soup-making were introduced.[532] With regard
to Homer’s heroes, however, our sympathies
are somewhat relieved by finding, that learned men
have overrated the extent of their misfortunes.
They were not altogether ignorant of the art of
boiling, as Athenæus himself admits, where he mentions
the boiled shin of beef which one of the
drunken suitors flung at Odysseus’s head.
The flesh of young animals was not habitually
eaten in those early ages, so that in denominating
them public devourers of kids and lambs, Priam
accuses his sons of scandalous luxury.[533] In fact,
with the design of preventing a scarcity of animal
food, a law was enacted at Athens prohibiting the
slaughter of an unshorn lamb, and from the same
motive the Emperor Valens forbade the use of
veal.[534]
But there was nothing beyond the difficulty of
catching it, to prevent the Homeric heroes from
making free with game, such as venison, and the
flesh of the wild goat;[535] and from a passage in
the Iliad, Feith infers, that even birds were not
spared.[536] We trust, however, that they feathered
and cooked them, and did not devour them au naturel,
as certain Hindùs do their sheep, wool and
all. The Egyptians had a very peculiar taste in
ornithophagy, and actually ate some kinds of birds
quite raw, as they likewise did several species of
fish; and this not in those early ages when Isis
and Osiris had not reclaimed the bogs of the Nile,
but in times quite modern, when Herodotus travelled
in their country, and heard their vain priests
131lay claim to having civilised Hellas. Both birds
and fish, indeed, underwent a certain sort of preparation.
Of the latter some were dried in the sun,
others preserved in pickle, and the same process
was applied to ducks, quails, and many other species
of birds, after which they were eaten raw. We
recommend the practice to our gourmands, and have
no doubt they would find a pickled owl or jackdaw,
devoured in the Egyptian style, altogether as wholesome
as diseased goose’s liver. It must not, however,
be dissembled, that many critics, concerned
for the gastronomic reputation of the Egyptians,
contend that, by the word which we translate “to
pickle,”[537] Herodotus must have meant some kind
of cookery; to which Wesseling replies, that, without
designing to impugn the taste of those gentlemen,
he must yet refuse to accept of their interpretation,
since by observing that they roasted or
boiled all other species of birds and fish, such as
were sacred excepted, the historian evidently intends
to say, that these were eaten raw. The
learned editor might have added, that Herodotus
uses the same term in treating of the process of
embalming,[538] and we nowhere learn that the mummies
were cooked before they were deposited in
the tombs.
But to return to the Homeric warriors; it seems
extremely[539] probable, notwithstanding the opinions
of several writers of great authority, both ancient
and modern, that the demi-gods, and heroes before
Troy, admitted that effeminate dainty called fish
to their warlike tables. At all events the common
people understood the value of this kind of
food,[540] and it may safely be inferred that their betters,
never slow in appropriating delicacies to their
132own use, soon perceived that fish is no bad eating.
Hunger would at least reconcile them to the flavour
of broiled salmon, as we find by the example of
Odysseus’s companions, who devoured both fish and
fowl.[541] This is acknowledged by Athenæus;[542] but
Plutarch contends, that they could have been driven
to it only by extreme necessity. At all
other times he imagines they temperately abstained
from food of so exciting a kind,[543] though Homer
describes the Hellespont as abounding in fish,[544] and
more than once alludes to the practice of drawing
it thence with hook and line.[545] Thus we find that
angling can trace back its pedigree to the heroic
ages; and the disciple of the rod as he trudges
with Izaak in his pocket through bog and mire in
search of a good bite, may solace his imagination
with reminiscences of Troy and the Hellespont. But
the good people of those days did not wholly rely
for a supply of fish on this very tedious and inefficient
process; they had discovered the use of nets,
which Homer describes the fisherman casting on
the sea shore.[546] Though the poet, however, had
omitted all allusion to this kind of food, its use
might, nevertheless, have been confidently inferred,
as may that of milk, common to all nations, though
Homer mentions it only, I believe, in the case of
the Hippomolgians,[547] and the cannibal Polyphemus,
who understood also the luxury of cheese.[548] Circe,
too, who being a goddess may be supposed to have
been a connoisseur in dainties, presents her paramour
Odysseus with a curious mixture, consisting
of cheese, honey, flour, and wine,[549] very savoury, no
133doubt, and by old Nestor considered of salutary nature,
since Hecamedè, at his order, prepares a plentiful
supply of it for the wounded Machaon. Along with
this posset, garlic was eaten as a relish.[550]
Fruits and potherbs, as may be supposed, were
already in use.[551] Garlic we have mentioned above;
and Odysseus, after all his wars and wanderings,
recallsrecalls to mind with a quite natural pleasure the
apple and pear trees which his father, Laertes, had
given him when a boy.[552] Alcinoös possessed a fine
orchard, where, though the process of grafting is
supposed to have been then unknown, we find a
variety of beautiful fruits, as pears, apples, pomegranates,
delicious figs, olives, and grapes; and in
his kitchen-garden were all kinds of vegetables.[553]
And the shadowy boughs of a similar orchard, covered
with golden fruit, wave over Tantalos in
Hades, but are blown back by the wind whenever
the wretched old sinner stretches forth his hand
towards them.[554] From this circumstance Athenæus,
with much ingenuity, infers that fruit was actually
in use before the Trojan war! Apples seem then,
as now, to have constituted a favourite portion of
the dessert, though among the Homeric warriors they
seem sometimes to have formed a principal part of
the meal; for Servius[555] describes the primitive repasts
as consisting of two courses, of which the first
was animal food, and apples the second.
Salt was in great use in the Homeric age, and by
the poet sometimes called divine.[556] Plato, also, in the
Timæos,[557] speaks of salt as a thing acceptable to the
gods, an expression which Plutarch quotes with manifest
134approbation in a passage where he grows quite
eloquent in praise of this article, which he denominates
the condiment of condiments, adding, that of
some it was numbered among the Graces.[558] By the
most ancient Greeks salt was, for this reason, always
spoken of in conjunction with the table, as in the old
proverb, where men were advised “never to pass by salt
or a table,” that is, not to neglect a good dinner.[559] Poor
men, who probably had no other seasoning for their
food, were contemptuously denominated “salt-lickers.”[560]
But, in Homer’s time, there existed certain Hellenic
tribes who had not yet arrived at a knowledge of this
luxury; among whom, accordingly, even the most aristocratic
personages were compelled to go without salt
to their porridge.[561] The poet has, indeed, omitted to
mention their names; but Pausanias supposes him to
have alluded to the more inland clans of Epeirots,
many of which had not yet, in those ages, acquired
a knowledge of salt, or even of the sea.[562]
It appears to be agreed on all hands, that the primitive
races of men were mere water-drinkers. Accordingly
they had neither poets nor inn-keepers, nor
excisemen,—three classes of persons who never flourish
but where wine, or at least beer, is found.
Homer more than once alludes to this vicious habit
of the old world, where, with a sly insinuation of
contempt,—for he was himself partial to the blood-red
wine,—he tells us that this or that nation drank,
like so many oxen or crocodiles, of the waters of
such or such a river. Thus, when enumerating the
allies of Ilion, he describes the Zeleians as those who
sipped the black waters of the Æsepos.[563] Pindar, too,
in the hope of obtaining a reputation for sobriety,
says, he was accustomed to drink the waters of
135Thebes, which, in his opinion, were very delicious,[564]
though Hippocrates would unquestionably have been
of a totally different way of thinking. The Persian,
and afterwards the Parthian kings, appear in many
cases to have entertained a temperate predilection
for the water of certain streams, of which Milton
has given eternal celebrity to one:—
“Choaspes, amber stream,
The drink of none but kings.”
[565]
But evidently through mistake; for though historians
pretend that the Parthian monarchs would drink of
no water save that of the Choaspes, to which Pliny[566]
adds the Eulæus, it is by no means said that they
enjoyed a monopoly of those streams. Perhaps our
great poet confounded the Choaspes with those Golden
Waters which, in Athenæus, are said to have
been wholly reserved for the use of the king and
his eldest son.[567]
Wine, however, was invented very early in the
history of the world; and the virtue of sobriety was
born along with it; for, until then, it had been no
merit to be sober. With whomsoever its use began,
wine was well known to Homer’s heroes, one of whom
speaks of it, in conjunction with bread, as the chief
root of man’s strength and vigour.[568] Yet the warriors
of those ages by no means exhibited that selfish parsimony
136which led the Romans to debar their matrons
the use of wine.[569] In Homer we find women, even
while very young, permitted the enjoyment of it:
for example, Nausicaa and her companions, who, in
setting forth on their washing excursion, are furnished
by the queen herself with a plentiful supply
of provisions, and a skin of wine.[570] Boys, likewise,
in the heroic ages, met with similar indulgence; for
Phœnix is represented permitting Achilles to join
him in his potations before the little urchin knew
how to drink without spilling it over himself.[571] This
practice, however, is very properly condemned by
Plato, who considered that no person under eighteen
should be allowed to taste of wine, and even then
but sparingly.[572] After thirty, more discretion might,
he thought, be granted them; though he recommended
sobriety at all times, save, perhaps, on the anniversary
festival of Dionysos, and certain other divinities, when
a merry bowl was judged in keeping with the other
ceremonies of the day.[573]
We shall now pass from the primitive aliments of
the heroic times to those almost infinite varieties of
good things which the ingenuity of later ages brought
into use. The reader, not already familiar with the
gastronomic fragments of ancient literature, will probably
be surprised at the omniverous character of
the Greeks, to whom nothing seems to have come
amiss, from the nettle-top to the peach, from the
sow’s metra to the most delicate bird, from the shark
to the small semi-transparent aphyæ, caught along
the shores of Attica.[574] Through this ocean of dainties
137we shall endeavour to make our way on the following
plan:—first, it will be our “hint to speak”
of the more solid kinds of food, as beef, mutton, pork,
veal; we shall then make a transition to the soups,
fowls, and fish; next the fruit will claim our attention;
and, lastly, the several varieties of wines.
It has already been observed, that in the earliest
ages men wholly abstained from animal food.[575] Afterwards
when they began to cast “wolfish eyes” upon
their mute companions on the globe, the hog is said
to have been the first creature whose character emboldened
them to make free with him. They saw
it endued with less intelligence than other animals;
and, from its stupidity, inferred that it ought to be
eaten, its soul merely serving during life, as salt, to
keep the flesh from putrefying.[576] The determining
reason, however, appears to have been, that they
could make no other use of him, since he would
neither plough like the ox, nor be saddled and mounted
like the horse or ass, nor become a pleasant companion,
or guard the house, like the dog.
It was long before men in any country slew the
ox for food; his great utility was his protection,
and in some parts of the East the well-meaning
priesthood at length compassed him round with the
armour of superstition, which outlasted the occasion,
and in India has come down in nearly all its
strength to our own day. It was otherwise in
Greece. There common sense quickly dissipated
the illusion, which, while it was necessary, had
guarded the ox, and beef became the favourite food
138of its hardy and active inhabitants, who likewise
fed indiscriminately on sheep, goats, deer, hares,
and almost every other animal, wild or tame.
It has been seen that in remote ages fish did
not constitute any great part of the sustenance of
the Greeks. But public opinion afterwards underwent
a very considerable change. From having
been held in so little estimation as to be left
chiefly to the use of the poor, in the historical
ages it became their greatest luxury.[577] And there
arose among gourmands, those ancient St. Simonians,
whose god was their belly, a kind of enthusiastic
rivalry as to who should be first in the
morning at the fish-market, and bear away, as in
triumph, the largest Copaic eels, the finest pair of
soles, or the freshest anthias.[578] On this subject,
therefore, our details must be somewhat more elaborate
than on beef and mutton. And first, we
shall take the reader along with us to the market,
whither it will be advisable that he carry as little
money as possible, since, according to the comic
poets, your Athenian fishmonger, not content with
being a mere rogue, dealt a little also in the
assassin’s trade.[579]
The first thing which a rich gourmand inquired
in the morning was, which way the wind blew.
If from the north, and there was anything like a
sea, he remained sullenly at home, for no fishing
smacks could in that case make the Peiræeus;[580]
but if the wind sat in any other quarter, out he
139went eagerly and stealthily with a slave and basket[581]
at his heels, casting about anxious looks to discover
whether any other impassioned fish-eater had got
the start of him on his way to the Agora, who
might clear the stalls of the best anthias or thunny
before he could reach the spot.
The unmoneyed rogue, however, whose ambitious
taste soared to these expensive dainties, approached
the market with a rueful countenance. Thus we
find a poor fellow describing, in Antiphanes, his
morning’s pilgrimage in search of a pair of soles:
I once believed the Gorgons fabulous:
But in the agora quickly changed my creed,
And turned almost to stone, the pests beholding
Standing behind the fish stalls. Forced I am
To look another way when I accost them,
Lest if I saw the fish they ask so much for,
I should at once grow marble.
[582]
Amphis, another comic poet, supplies us with
further details respecting the hardships encountered
by those who had to deal with fishmongers at
Athens. Much of his wit is, I fear, intransferable,
depending in a great measure on the vernacular clipping
of Greek common in the market-place. But
the sense, at least, may perhaps be given:
“Ten thousand times more easy ’tis to gain
Admission to a haughty general’s tent,
And have discourse of him, than in the market
Audience to get of a cursed fishmonger.
If you draw near and say, How much
, my, my friend,
Costs this or that?—No answer. Deaf you think
The rogue must be, or stupid; for he heeds not
A syllable you say, but o’er his fish
Bends silently like Telephos (and with good reason,
For his whole race he knows are cut-throats all).
Another minding not, or else not hearing,
140Pulls by the legs a polypus.
[583] A third
With saucy carelessness replies, ‘Four oboli,
That’s just the price. For this no less than eight.
Take it or leave it!’”
[584]
Alexis, too, that most comic of comic writers,
seems to have imagined, that the humour of his
pieces would be incomplete without a spice of the
fishmonger. Commencing, like Amphis, with an
allusion to the haughty airs of military men, he
glides into his subject as follows:—
However, this is still endurable.
But when a paltry fishfag will look big,
Cast down his eyes affectedly, or bend
His eyebrows upwards like a fullstrained bow,
I burst with rage. Demand what price he asks
For—say two mullets; and he answers straight
“Ten obols”—“Ten? That’s dear: will you take eight?”
“Yes, if one fish will serve you.”—“Friend, no jokes;
I am no subject for your mirth.”—“Pass on, Sir!
And buy elsewhere.”—Now tell me is not this
But if the reader should be disposed to infer from
these testimonies that the fishmongering race were
saucy only at Athens, he will be in danger of falling
into error. Throughout the ancient world they
were the same, and we fear that should any poor
devil from Grub-street, or the Quartier Latin, presume
to dispute respecting the price of salmon with
one of their cockney or Parisian descendants, he
would meet with little more politeness. At all
events their manners had not improved in the Eternal
city,[586] for it is a propos of the Roman fishfags
that Athenæus brings forward his examples of like
insolence elsewhere. The poet Diphilos would appear,
like Archestratos, to have travelled in search
of good fish and civil fishmongers, but his labours
141were fruitless; he might as well have peregrinated
the world in the hope of finding that island where
soles are caught ready-fried in the sea. Such at
least is the tenour of his own complaint:
Troth, in my greener days I had some notion
That here at Athens only, rogues sold fish;
But everywhere, it seems, like wolf or fox,
The race is treacherous by nature found.
However, we have one scamp in the agora
Who beats all others hollow. On his head
A most portentous fell of hair nods thick
And shades his brow. Observing your surprise,
He has his reasons pat; it grows forsooth
To form, when shorn, an offering to some god!
But that’s a feint, ’tis but to hide the scars
Left by the branding iron upon his forehead.
But, passing that, you ask perchance the price
Of a sea-wolf—“Ten oboli”—very good.
You count the money. “Oh not those,” he cries,
“Æginetan I meant.” Still you comply.
But if you trust him with a larger piece,
And there be change to give; mark how the knave
Now counts in Attic coin, and thus achieves
A two-fold robbery in the same transaction!
[587]
Xenarchos paints a little scene of ingenious roguery
with a comic extravagance altogether Shakespearian,
and incidentally throws light on a curious law of
Athens, enacted to protect the citizens against stinking
fish.[588] The power of invention, he observes—willing
to kill two birds with one stone—had totally
deserted the poets in order to take up with
the fishmongers; for while the former merely hashed
up old ideas, the latter were always hitting upon
new contrivances to poison the Demos:
Commend me for invention to the rogue
Who sells fish in the agora. He knows
142In fact there’s no mistaking,—that the law
Clearly and formally forbids the trick
Of reconciling stale fish to the nose
By constant watering. But if some poor wight
Detect him in the fact, forthwith he picks
A quarrel, and provokes his man to blows.
He wheels meanwhile about his fish, looks sharp
To catch the nick of time, reels, feigns a hurt:
And prostrate falls, just in the right position.
A friend placed there on purpose, snatches up
A pot of water, sprinkles a drop or two,
For form’s sake on his face, but by mistake,
As you must sure believe, pours all the rest
Full on the fish, so that almost you might
Consider them fresh caught.
[589]
By a law passed at the instance of the wealthy
Aristonicos, himself no doubt an ichthyophagos, the
penalty of imprisonment was decreed against all
those who, having named a price for their fish,
should take less, in order that they might at once
demand what was just and no more. In consequence
of this enactment, an old woman or a child
might be sent to the fish-market, without danger
of being cheated. According to another provision
of this Golden Law, as it is termed by Alexis, fishmongers
were compelled to stand at their stalls and
not to sit as had previously been the custom. The
comic poet, in the fulness of his charity, expresses
a hope that they might be all suspended aloft on
the following year, by which means, he says, they
would get a quicker sight of their customers, and
143carry on their dealings with mankind from a machine
like the gods of tragedy.[590]
In consequence no doubt of the perpetually increasing
demand, fish was extremely dear at Athens.
Accordingly Diphilos, addressing himself to Poseidon,
who, as god of the sea, was god also of its
inhabitants, informs him that, could he but secure
the tithe of fish, he would soon become the wealthiest
divinity in Olympos. Among those who distinguished
themselves in this business in the agora,
and apparently became rich, it is probable that many
were metoiki, such as Hermæos, the Egyptian, and
Mikion, who, though his country is not mentioned,
was probably not an Athenian. In proportion as
they grew opulent, the gourmands on whom they
preyed became poor, and doubtless there was too
much truth in the satire which represented men
dissipating their whole fortunes in the frying-pan.
There were those also it seems who spent their evenings
on the highway, in order to furnish their daily
table with such dainties. For this fact we have the
satisfactory testimony of Alexis in his Heiress:
Mark you a fellow who, however scant
In all things else, hath still wherewith to purchase
Cod, eel, or anchovies, be sure i’ the dark
He lies about the road in wait for travellers.
If therefore you’ve been robbed o’ernight, just go
At peep of dawn to th’ agora and seize
The first athletic, ragged vagabond
Who cheapens eels of Mikion. He, be sure,
And none but he’s the thief: to prison with him!
[591]
They had at Corinth a pretty strict police regulation
on this subject. When any person was observed
habitually to purchase fish, he was interrogated
by the authorities respecting his means. If
found to be a man of property they suffered him
to do what he pleased with his own; but, in the
contrary event, he received a gentle hint that the
144state had its eye upon him. The neglect of this
admonition was followed, in the first place, by a fine,
and ultimately, if persevered in, by a punishment
equivalent to the treadmill.[592] These matters were in
Athens submitted to the cognizance of two or three
magistrates, called Opsonomoi, nominated by the Senate.[593]
With respect to the purchase of this class
of viands, everywhere attended with peculiar difficulties,
it may be said, that the ancients had considerably
the advantage of us; since in Lynceus of
Samos’s “Fish-buyer’s Manual,” they possessed a sure
guide through all the intricacies of bargaining in the
agora.
But before we proceed further with this part of
our subject, we will demand permission of Lynceus
to hear what Hesiod has to say of saltfish, on
which Euthydemos, the Athenian, composed a separate
treatise. According to this poet, who boldly
speaks of cities erected long after his death, immense
quantities of fish were salted on the Bosporos,
sometimes entire, as in modern times,[594] sometimes
cut into gobbets of a moderate size. Among
these were the oxyrinchos whose taste proved often
fatal, the thunny, and the mackerel. The little city
of Parion furnished the best kolias (a kind of mackerel),
and the Tarentine merchants brought to Athens
pickled orcynos from Cadiz, cut into small triangular
pieces, in jars.[595] Physicians, indeed, inveighed
against these relishes; but the gourmands would consult
only their palates and preferred a short life with
pickled thunny to that of Saturn himself on beef
and mutton.
But the Hesiod of Euthydemos (a creation probably
of his own) is but very poor authority compared
with Archestratos, who made the pilgrimage
of the world in search of good cheer, and afterwards,
for the benefit of posterity, treasured up his experience
in a grand culinary epic. In his opinion a
145slice of Sicilian thunny was a rare delicacy, while
the saperda, though brought from the Pontos Euxinos,
he held as cheap as those who boasted of it.[596]
The scombros, by some supposed to be a species of
thunny, though others understand by it the common
mackerel, stood high in the estimation of this connoisseur.
He directs that it be left in salt three
days, and eaten before it begins to melt into brine.[597]
In his estimation the horaion[598] of Byzantium was
likewise a great delicacy, which he advises the traveller,
who might pass through that city, to taste
by all means. It seems to have been there what
macaroni is at Naples.
Alexis, in one of his comedies, introduces the Symposiarch
of an Eranos (president of a picnic) accounting
with one of the subscribers who comes to demand
back his ring, and in the course of the dialogue,
where something like Falstaff’s tavern-bill is
discussed, we find the prices of several kinds of salt-fish.
An omotarichos (shoulder piece of thunny) is
charged at five chalci; a dish of sea-mussels, seven
chalci, of sea-urchins, an obol, a slice of kybion,
three obols, a conger eel, ten, and another plate of
broiled fish, a drachma. This comic writer[599] rates
the fish of the Nile very low, and he is quite right,
for they are generally muddy and ill-tasted, though
the Copts, who have considerable experience during
Lent, contrive, by the application of much Archestratic
skill, to render some kinds of them palatable.
Sophocles, in a fragment of his lost drama of Phineus,
speaks of salt-fish embalmed like an Egyptian
mummy.[600] Stock-fish, as I know to my cost,
146is still a fashionable dish in the Mediterranean, especially
on board ship, and from a proverb preserved
by Athenæus we find it was likewise in use among
the Athenians.[601]
The passion of this refined people for salt-fish furnished
them with an occasion of showing their gratitude
publicly. They bestowed the rights of citizenship
on the sons of Chæriphilos, a metoikos who
first introduced among them a knowledge of this sort
of food.[602] A similar feeling prompted the Dutch to
erect a statue to G. Bukel, the man who taught
them to salt herrings.[603]
Without enumerating a tenth part of the other
species eaten among the Greeks, we pass to the shell-fish,
of which they were likewise great amateurs.
Epicharmos, in his marriage of Hebe, supplies a curious
list, which, however, might be extended almost
ad infinitum. Among these were immense limpets,
the buccinum, the cecibalos, the tethynakion, the
sea-acorn, the purple fish, oysters hard to open but
easy to swallow, mussels, sea-snails or periwinkles,
skiphydria sweet to taste but prickly to touch, large
shelled razor-fish, the black conch, and the amathitis.
The conch was also called tellinè as the same
poet in his Muses observes. Alcæos wrote a song
to the limpet beginning with
“Child of the rock and hoary sea.”
[604]
Boys used to make a sort of whistle of tortoise
and mussel shells. These mussels were usually
broiled on the coals, and Aristophanes, very ingenious
in his similes, compares a gaping silly fellow
to a mussel in the act of being cooked.[605]
Like the sepia, of which excellent pilaus are made
at Alexandria, the porphyra or purple fish was very
good eating, and thickened the liquor in which it
147was boiled.[606] There was a small delicate shell-fish
caught on the island of Pharos and adjacent coasts
of Egypt, which they called Aphrodite’s ear,[607] and
there is still found on the same coast near Canopos
a diminutive and beautiful rose-coloured conch
called Venus’s nipple. On the same shore, about
the rise of the Nile, that species of mussel called
tellinè was caught in great abundance, but the best-tasted
were said to be found in the river itself. A
still finer kind were in season about autumn in the
vicinity of Ephesos. The echinos, or sea-chestnut,[608]
cooked with oxymel, parsley, and mint, was esteemed
good and wholesome eating. Those caught about
Cephalonia, Icaria, and Achaia were bitterish, those
of Sicily laxative; the best were the red and the
quince coloured. A laughable anecdote is told of
a Spartan, who being invited to dine where sea-chestnuts
were brought to table, took one upon his plate,
and not knowing how they were eaten put it into
his mouth, shell and all. Finding it exceedingly
unmanageable, he turned it about for some time,
seeking slowly and cautiously to discover the knack
of eating it. But the rough and prickly shell still
resisting his efforts, his temper grew ruffled: crunching
it fiercely he exclaimed, “Detestable beast!
Well! I will not let thee go now, after having
thus ground thee to pieces; but assuredly I will
never touch thee again.”
Oysters were esteemed good when boiled with
mallows, or monks’ rhubarb.[609] In general, however,
148the physicians of antiquity considered them hard of
digestion. But lest the shelled-fish should usurp
more space than is their due, we shall conclude
with Archestratos’ list, in which he couples with
each the name of the place where the best were
caught:
For mussels you must go to Ænos; oysters
You’ll find best at Abydos. Parion
Rejoices in its urchins; but if cockles
Gigantic and sweet-tasted you would eat,
A voyage must be made to Mitylene,
Or the Ambracian Gulf, where they abound
With many other dainties. At Messina,
Near to the Faro, are pelorian conchs,
Nor are those bad you find near Ephesos;
For Tethyan oysters, go to Chalcedon;
But for the Heralds,
[610] may Zeus overwhelm them
Both in the sea and in the agora!
Aye, all except my old friend Agathon,
Who in the midst of Lesbian vineyards dwells.
[611]
We have already mentioned the magnificent eels
of Lake Copais,[612] in Bœotia, a longing for which
appears to have been Aristophanes’s chief motive
for desiring an end to the Peloponnesian war.
Next in excellence were those caught in the river
Strymon, and the Faro of Messina.[613] The ellops, by
some supposed to be the sword-fish,[614] was found
in greatest perfection near Syracuse; at least, in
149the opinion of Archestratos; but Varro and Pliny
give the preference to that of Rhodes, and others
to that of the Pamphylian sea.[615] The red mullet,
the hepsetos, the hepatos, the elacaten, the thunny,
the hippouros, the hippos, or sea-horse, found in
perfection on the shores[616] of Phœnicia, the ioulis,
the kichlè, or sea-thrush, the sea-boar, the citharos,
the kordylos, the river cray-fish, the shark, which
was eaten when young, the mullet, the coracinos,
the carp, the gudgeon, the sea-cuckoo, the sea-wolf,
the latos, the leobatos, or smooth ray, the
lamprey,[617] the myræna, the anchovy,[618] the black tail,
the torpedo, the mormyros, the orphos, the onos,
the polypus, the crab, the sea-perch, the physa, or
sea-tench, the raphis, the sea-dog,[619] the scaros, the
sparos, the scorpios, the salpe, or stock-fish, the synodon,
the sauros, the scepinos, or halibut, the
sciaina, the syagris, the sphyræna, the sepia, the
tœnia, the skate, the cuttle-fish, the hyca, the
phagros, the perca cabrilla, the chromis, the gilthead,
the trichidon, the thratta, and the turbot;[620]
such is a list of the fish in common use among
the Greeks. The species it will be seen has not
in many cases been ascertained.
150
The reader by this time will, probably, be willing
to escape from fish, though it would be easy
to treat him to many new kinds, and along with
us take a slice of Greek pheasant, or the breast
of an Egyptian quail. In other words, he will
hear what we have to say on Hellenic poultry.
Chrysippos, in his treatise on things desirable in
themselves, appears to have reckoned Athenian cocks
and hens among the number, and reprehends the
people of Attica for importing, at great expense,
barn-door fowls from the shores of the Adriatic,
though of smaller size, and much inferior to their
own; while the inhabitants of those countries, on
the other hand, were anxious to possess Attic poultry.[621]
Matron, the parodist, who furnishes an amusing
description of an Athenian repast, observes,
that excellent wild ducks were brought to town
from Salamis, where they grew fat in great numbers
on the borders of the sacred Lake.[622]
The thrush,[623] reckoned among the greatest delicacies
151of the ancients, generally at grand entertainments
formed part of the propoma, or first
course, and was eaten with little cakes, called
ametiskoi. If we may credit Epicharmos, a decided
preference was given to such as fed on the
olive. Aristotle divides the thrush into three species,
the first and largest of which he denominates
Ixophagos, or the “mistletoe-eater;” it was of the
size of a magpie. The second, equal in bigness
to the black bird, he calls Trichas,[624] and the third,
and smallest kind, which was named Ilas or Tulas,
according to Alexander, the Myndian, went in
flocks, and built its nest like the swallow.[625] Next
in excellence to the thrush was a bird known by
a variety of names, elaios, pirias, sycalis,[626] the beccafico
of the moderns, which was thought to be
in season when the figs were ripe. They likewise
ate the turtle and the ringdove,[627] which are excellent
in Egypt; the chaffinch, to whose qualities
I cannot bear testimony; and the blackbird. Nor
did they spare the starling, the jackdaw, or the
strouthanion, a small bird for which modern languages
cannot afford a name. Brains were thought
by the ancient philosophers an odious and cannibal-like
food, because they are the fountain of all
sensation; but this did not prevent the gourmands
from converting pigs’ brains into a dainty dish,[628] and
their taste has maintained its ground in Italy. Partridges,
wood-pigeons, geese, quails, jays, are also
enumerated among the materials of an Hellenic
banquet.
152Goose’s liver was in extreme request both at
Rome and Athens.[629] Another dainty was a cock
served up with a rich sauce, containing much vinegar.
Aristophanes speaks of the pheasant in his
comedy of the Birds; and, again, in the Clouds,
Athenæus rightly supposes him to mean this bird,
where others imagine he alludes to the horses of
the Phasis. Mnesilochos, a writer of the middle
comedy, classes a plucked pheasant with hen’s milk,
among things equally difficult to be met with, which
shows that the bird had not then become common.
It obtained its name from being found in immense
numbers about the embouchure of the Phasis, and
the bird was evidently propagated very slowly in
Greece and Egypt, since we find Ptolemy Philadelphos,
in a grand public festival at Alexandria, exhibiting
it, among other rarities, such as parroquets,
peacocks, guinea-fowl, and Ethiopian birds
in cages.[630]
Among the favourite game of the Athenian gourmands
was the Attagas,[631] or francolin, a little larger
than the partridge, variegated with numerous spots,
and of common tile colour, somewhat inclining to
red. It is said to have been introduced from Lydia
into Greece, and was found in extraordinary abundance
153in the Megaris. Another of their favourites
was the porphyrion, a bird which might with great
advantage be introduced into many countries of modern
Europe, since it was exceedingly domestic, and
kept strict watch over the married women, whose
faux pas it immediately detected and revealed to
their husbands, after which, knowing the revengeful
spirit of ladies so situated, it very prudently hung
itself. It is no wonder, therefore, that the breed
has long been extinct, or that the remnant surviving
has taken refuge in some remote region, where wives
require no such vigilant guardians. In the matter
of eating it agreed exactly with Lord Byron, loving
to feast alone, and in retired nooks, where none
could observe. Aristotle describes this half fabulous
bird as unwebfooted, of blue colour, with long legs,
and red beak. The porphyrion was about the size
of a cock, and originally a native of Libya, where
it was esteemed sacred.[632]
Another bird common in Greece, but now no
longer known, was the porphyris, by some confounded
with the foregoing. Of the partridge, common
throughout Europe, we need merely remark,
that both the gray and the red (the bartavelle of
the French) were common in Greece.
If we pass from the poultry to puddings and
soups,[633] we shall find that the Athenians were not ill-provided
with these dainties. They even converted
gruel into a delicacy,[634] and it is said, that the best
was made at Megara. They had bean soup, flour
soup, ptisans made with pearl-barley or groats.[635]
We hear, also, of a delicately-powdered dish or soup
154which was sprinkled over with fine flour and olives.
The polphos, evidently soupe à la julienne, is said,
by some, to have been composed of scraped roots,
vegetables, and flour. Others take it to mean a
sort of made-dish, resembling macaroni or vermicelli.
Another kind of soup was the kidron, which,
according to Pollux,[636] they made of green wheat,
roasted and reduced to powder.
There was one dish fashionable among the ancient
Greeks mistaken by our neighbours, the French,
for plum-pudding, which is still found in perfection
in the Levant, where I have many times eaten of
it. Julius Pollux[637] has preserved the recipe for
making it, and we can assure our gourmands, that
nothing more exquisite was ever tasted, even in
the best café of the Palais Royal. They took a certain
quantity of the finest clarified lard, and, mixing
it up with milk until it was quite thick, added
an equal portion of new cheese, yolks of eggs, and
the finest flour. The whole rolled up tight in a
fragrant fig-leaf, was then cooked in chicken-broth,
or soup made with kid’s flesh. When they considered
it well done, the leaf was removed and the
pudding soused in boiling honey. It was then served
up hissing-hot. All the ingredients were used in
equal proportions, excepting the yolks of eggs, of
which there was somewhat more than of anything
else, in order to give firmness and consistency to
the whole.[638]
Black puddings, made with blood, suet, and the
other materials now used were also common at
Athens.[639] Mushrooms and snails were great favourites;
and Poliochos speaks of going out in the
dewy mornings in search of these luxuries.[640] In
spring, before the arrival of the swallow, the nettle
155was collected and eaten, it being then young and
tender.[641] Leeks, onions, garlic, were in much request,
the last particularly, which grew in great plenty
in the Megarean territory, and hence, perhaps, the
inhabitants were accounted hot and quarrelsome,
garlic being supposed to inspire game, even in
fighting cocks, to which it was accordingly given
in great quantities.[642]
Among the herbs eaten by his countrymen, Hesiod
enumerates the mallow,[643] and the asphodel, which
are likewise said by Aristophanes to have constituted
a great part of the food of the early Greeks. Gœttling,
therefore, not without reason, wonders that Pythagoras
should have prohibited the use of the mallow.
Lupines, pomegranates, horse-radish, the dregs
of grapes and olives, all of which entered into the
material of an Attic entertainment, were commonly
cried about the streets of Athens.[644] But these edible
lupines, (θέρμοι) still eaten by the Egyptian peasantry
and the poor generally throughout the Levant, must
be distinguished from the common species. An
anecdote of Zeno, of Cittion, will illustrate the
character of this kind of pulse, with which the
philosopher was evidently familiar. Being one day
asked why, though naturally morose, he became
quite affable when half-seas-over: “I am like the
lupine,” he replied, “which, when dry, is very bitter,
but perfectly sweet and agreeable after it has been
well soaked.”[645] Kidney-beans, too, were in much
request, and pickled olives, slightly flavoured with
fennel.
The radish[646] was esteemed a great delicacy, particularly
156that of Thasos and Bœotia. And the seeds
of the ground-pine,[647] still eaten as a dessert in Italy,
entered, in Greece, also into the list of edible fruits.[648]
The tree, I am informed, has been introduced into
England, but I have nowhere seen its fruit brought
among pears, walnuts, and apples, to table. Hen’s
milk has already been spoken of among the good
things of Hellas;[649] but lest the reader should suspect
us of amusing him with fables, it should be
explained, that the white of an egg was so called
by Anaxagoras.[650] Eggs of all kinds were much esteemed.
Sometimes they were boiled hard, and cut
in two with a hair; but, many writers, confounding
ὄα, the berries of the service-tree, with ὠὰ, eggs,
have imagined that the Athenians, in the capriciousness
of their culinary taste, actually ate pickled
eggs, an idea which stirs to the bottom the erudite
bile of David Ruhnken.[651] Generally, eggs were eaten
soft, as with us, or swallowed quite raw. Those
of the pea-hen were considered the most delicate;
next to these, the eggs of the chenalopex bergander,
or Egyptian goose, and, lastly, those of the hen.
This, at least, is the opinion of Epicrates and Heracleides,
of Syracuse, in their treatises on cookery.[652]
As when an entertainment was given the host necessarily
expected his guests to make a good dinner,
they usually commenced the business of the day with
an antecœnium or whet, consisting of herbs of the
sharpest taste. At Athens, the articles which generally
composed this course were colewort, eggs, oysters,
œnomel—a mixture of honey and wine—all supposed
to create appetite.[653] To these even in later
157times were added the mallow and the asphodel,
king’s-spear or day-lily, gourds,[654] melons, cucumbers.
The melons of Greece are still delicious, and famous
as ever in the Levant. Antioch was celebrated for
its cucumbers, Smyrna for its lettuces. Mushrooms
were always a favourite dish;[655] and they had receipts
for producing them, which even now, perhaps, may
not be wholly unworthy of attention.
The use, however, of this kind of food was always
attended with great danger, there being comparatively
few species that could be safely eaten. Persons
were frequently poisoned by them, and a pretty
epigram of Euripides has been preserved, commemorating
a mother and three children who had been
thus cut off, in the island of Icaros:
Bright wanderer through the eternal way,
Has sight so sad as that which now
Bedims the splendour of thy ray,
E’er bid the streams of sorrow flow?
Here, side by side, in death are laid
Two darling boys, their mother’s care;
And here their sister, youthful maid,
Near her who nursed and thought them fair.
[656]
Diodes, of Carystos, enumerates among wholesome
vegetables the red beet, the mallow, the dock, the
nettle, orach, the bolbos, or truffle, and the mushroom,
of which the best kinds were supposed to
grow at the foot of elm and pine trees.[657]
The sion[658] (sium latifolium), another of their vegetables,
is a plant found in marshes and meadows,
with the smallage.[659]
Another plant, of far greater celebrity, was the
Silphion,[660] once extremely plentiful in Cyrenaica, as
158also, though of an inferior quality, in Syria, Armenia,
and Media, but afterwards so rare as to be thought
extinct. Besides being used in seasoning soups and
sauces, and mixed with salt for giving a superior
flavour to meat, its juice occupied a high place among
the materia medica.[661] A single plant was discovered
in the reign of Nero, and sent to Rome as a present
to the Emperor. Its seed, according to Pollux,[662] was
called magudaris, its root silphion, the stem caulos,
and the leaf maspeton. Be this as it may, it communicated
to the sauces in which it was infused a
pungent and somewhat bitter taste, and was in no
favour with Archestratos.[663]
We come now to the fruit,[664] and shall begin with
that which was the pride of Attica, the fig.[665] According
to traditions fully credited in Athens, figs were first
produced on a spot near the city, on the road to Eleusis,
thence called Hiera Sukè, “the sacred fig-tree.”[666]
Like its men, the figs of Attica were esteemed the
best in the world, and to secure an abundant supply
for the use of the inhabitants it was forbidden to export
them. As might have been expected, however,
this decree was habitually contravened, and the informers
against the delinquents were called sycophants,
that is, “revealers of figs,”[667] a word which has
been adopted by most modern languages to signify
mean-souled, dastardly persons, such as informers always
are. The fig-tree of Laconia was a dwarfed
species, and its fruit, according to Aristophanes,[668] savoured
159of hatred and tyranny, like the people themselves.
There is no kind of fig,
Whether little or big,
Save the Spartan, which here does not grow;
But this, though quite small,
Swells with hatred and gall,
A stern foe to the Demos, I trow.
[669]
Aristophanes, in Athenæus, speaking of fruit, couples
myrtle-berries with Phibaleian figs.[670]
According to the ancients, there were certain sorts
of fig-trees that bore twice, thrice, and even four times,
in the year. Sosibios, the Laconian, attributing the
discovery of the fig to Bacchos, observes, that for this
reason the god was, at Sparta, worshiped under the
name of Sukites. Andriscos, however, and Agasthenes,
relate that this divinity obtained the name of
Meilichios, “the gracious,” among the Naxians because
he taught them the use of figs. To eat figs
at noon was regarded as unwholesome; and they were
at all times supposed to be highly prejudicial to the
voice, for which reason singers should carefully eschew
them.[671]
The apples of Delphi enjoyed great celebrity, and
probably, therefore, were mild, since these were thought
superior, or at least more wholesome, than sharp ones.
Quinces they esteemed still more salubrious than apples,
and, during certain public rejoicings, this fruit,
handfuls of myrtle-leaves, crowns of roses and violets,
were cast before the cars of their princes and other
great men.[672] The Greeks loved to connect something
of the marvellous with whatever they admired. To
the quince they attributed the honour of being a
powerful antidote, observing that even the Phariac
poison, though of extremely rapid operation, lost its
virulence if poured into any vessel which had held
quinces and retained their odour.[673] According to
160Hermon, in his Cretic Glossaries, the quince was called
Kodumala, in Crete. Sidoüs, a village of Corinthia,
was famous for its fine apples; and even Corinth
itself, the “windy Ephyrè” of Homer, produced them
in great perfection.
“O where is the maiden, sweeter far
Than the ruddy fruits of Ephyrè are?
When the winds of summer have o’er them blown,
And their cheeks with autumn’s gold have been strown!”
[674]
Another favourite fruit was the peach, introduced
from Persia into Greece.[675] The citron, too, though
supposed by some not to have been known to the
ancient inhabitants of Hellas, perfumed in later
ages the tables of the Greeks with its delicious
fragrance. This is the fruit which, according to
King Juba, was called in Africa “the apple of the
Hesperides,” a name bestowed by Timachidas on
a rich and fragrant kind of pear called epimelis.
The oldest Greek writer who has described the citron
tree is Theophrastus,[676] who says it was found
in Persia and Media. Its leaf, he observes, resembled
that of the laurel, the strawberry tree, or
the walnut. Like the wild pear tree, and the oxyacanthos,
it has sharp, smooth, and very strong
prickles. The fruit is not eaten, but together with
the leaves exhales a sweet odour, and laid with
cloths in coffers protects them from the moth. The
citron tree, is always covered with fruit, some ripe
and fit to be gathered, others green, with patches
of gold; and, in the midst of these, are other
branches covered thick with blossoms. It now
forms the fairest ornaments of the gardens of Heliopolis,
where it shades the Fountain of the Sun.
161Antiphanes observes, in his Bœotian, that it had
only recently been introduced into Attica:
A. ’Twould be absurd to speak of what’s to eat,
As if you thought of such things; but, fair maid,
Take of these apples.
A. They are, indeed, since hither they but lately
Have come from the great king.
B. By Phosphoros!
I could have thought them from the Hesperian bowers,
Where th’ apples are of gold.
B. The beautiful is no where plentiful.
[677]
Athenæus, after quoting the testimony of poets,
relates a curious anecdote à propos of citrons,
which I shall here repeat: it has, probably, some
reference to the secret of the Psylli. An opinion,
it seems, prevailed in Egypt, that a citron eaten
the first thing in the morning was an antidote
against all kinds of poison, whether taken into the
stomach, or introduced by puncture into the blood,
and the notion arose out of the following circumstance.
A governor of Egypt, in the time of the
Emperors, had condemned two criminals to be executed,
in obedience to custom, by the bite of an
asp. They were, accordingly, led in the morning
towards the place of execution, and on the way
the landlady of an inn, who happened to be eating
citrons, compassionating their condition, gave them
some which they ate. Shortly afterwards they
were exposed to the hungry serpents, which immediately
bit them, but instead of exhibiting the
usual symptoms followed by death, they remained
uninjured. At this the governor marvelled much,
162and at length demanded of the soldier who guarded
them, whether they had taken anything previously
to their arrival. Learning what had happened
he put off the execution to the following day, and
ordering a citron to be given to one and not
to the other, they were once more exposed to the
bite of the asp. The wretch who had eaten nothing
died soon after he was bitten, but the other
experienced no inconvenience. Similar experiments
were several times afterwards made by others, until
it was at length ascertained that this exquisite
fruit is really an antidote against poisons.[678]
Another fruit of which great use was made, was
the damascene plum, sometimes confounded with
the brabylon. The cherry,[679] introduced into Italy
by Lucullus, was known to the Greeks[680] at a much
earlier period, and is described by Theophrastus.
The wild service berry,[681] the dwarf cherry, the arbutus
fruit, and the mulberry, formed part of their
dessert. Even the blackberry, when perfectly ripe,
was not disdained.[682] In fact, both the mulberry
and blackberry were esteemed a preventive of gout,
and an ancient writer relates, that this kind of
fruit having failed during a period of twenty years,
that disease prevailed like an epidemic, attacking
persons of both sexes and all ages, and extending
its ravages even to the sheep and cattle.
Filberts, walnuts, and almonds,[683] deservedly held
163a high place in the estimation of the ancients. Of
almonds, the island of Naxos had the reputation of
producing very excellent ones, and those of Cypros
also enjoyed considerable reputation. These latter
were longer in form than the former; like pickled
olives they were eaten at the commencement of a
repast, for the purpose of producing thirst; and
bitter almonds were considered a preservative against
intoxication, as we learn from an anecdote of Tiberius’s
physician, who could encounter three bottles
when thus fortified, but easily succumbed if deprived
of his almonds. This fruit being extremely
common in Greece, they had their almond-crackers,
as we have our nut-crackers, which at Sparta were
called moucerobatos but amygdalocatactes in the rest
of Greece.[684]
The larger kind of chestnut, sometimes denominated
the “acorns of Zeus,” appears to have been
introduced into Greece from the countries round the
Pontos Euxinos, where they were produced in
great abundance, particularly in the environs of Heraclea.
There was, likewise, a sort of chestnut imported
from Persia, and another from the neighbourhood
of Sardes, in Lydia. Both these and the
walnut were considered indigestible; but not so the
almond, of which it was thought great quantities
might be eaten with impunity.[685] The best kinds
were produced in Thasos and Cypros, and, when
freshly gathered, the almonds of the south are, undoubtedly,
of all fruit, the most delicate. The
walnuts andand chestnuts of Eubœa, in the opinion
of Mnestheos, were difficult of digestion, but fattening;
and no one can have frequented the eastern
shores of the Mediterranean without observing what
an important article of food, and how nourishing,
they are.[686] The pistachio nut, produced from a tree
164resembling the almond-tree, was imported from Syria
and Arabia.[687] The persea, now no longer known,
but supposed to be represented on the walls of the
Memnonium,[688] at Thebes, is, also, said, by Poseidonios,
the stoic, to have grown in Arabia and Syria,
and I brought home a quantity of leaves, preserved
in an Egyptian coffin, which are, probably, those
of this tree. Pears, which were brought to table
floating in water,[689] and service-berries, were grown
in great perfection in the island of Ceos, and Bœotia
was famous for its pomegranates.[690]
Speaking of this fruit, which the Bœotians call
sidè, Agatharchides relates the following anecdote:
A dispute arising between the Athenians and Bœotians,
respecting a spot called Sidè, situated on the
borders, Epaminondas, in order to decide the question,
took out a pomegranate from under his robe,
and demanded of the Athenians, what they called
it. “Rhoa” they replied. “Very good,” said Epaminondas;
“but“but we call it Sidè, and, as the place
derives its name from the fruit which grows there
in abundance, it is clear the land must belong to
us.” And it was decided in favour of the Bœotians.[691]
165We have already observed, that the palm-tree
flourished and produced dates in Greece, particularly
in Attica and Delos;[692] but it is clear, from a
remark of Xenophon, that these dates were small
and of an inferior quality; for, speaking of the productions
of Mesopotamia, he says, that they set
aside for the slaves such dates as resembled those
produced in Greece, while the larger and finer kinds,[693]
which were like amber in colour, they selected for
their own use. They were also dried, as they still
are in the East, to be eaten as a dessert, at other
seasons of the year. From which we learn, that
the black date, which is larger and finer than the
yellow, was not then cultivated in Persia. But
neither dates, nor any other fruit, could compare
with the grape, which is found in perfection in almost
every part of Greece, where, as in Burgundy and, I
presume, in the rest of France, the law regulated
the period of the vintage, prohibiting individuals
from gathering their grapes earlier under a heavy
penalty.[694] The best kind of grape in Attica, like
that of the Clos Vougeot in Burgundy, was the Nikostrateios,
supposed to be unrivalled for excellence,
though the Rhodians pretended, in their Hipponion,
to possess its equal.[695]
From the grape we pass naturally to wine, which
has of itself formed the subject of many treatises.
It will not, therefore, be expected that we should
enter into very minute details; though, if we are
sparing, it will certainly not be for want of materials.
D’Herbelot[696] relates an oriental tradition which attributes
166the invention of wine to the ancient Persian
monarch Giamshid; and Bochart, with some
show of ingenuity, attributes to Bacchos, the Grecian
inventor and god of wine, an origin which
would confound him with the founder of Babylon.[697]
A very celebrated wine, called nectar, is said to
have been produced in the neighbourhood of that
city.[698] But, according to Theopompos, it was the
inhabitants of Chios who first planted and cultivated
the vine, and from them the knowledge was transmitted
to the other Greeks.[699]
Theophrastus[700] relates that, in the territory of
Heraclea, in Arcadia, there was a wine which rendered
men insane and women prolific.[701] In the
environs of Cerynia, in Achaia, grew a vine, the
wine of which blasted the fruit of the womb, nay,
the very grapes were said to possess a similar quality.[702]
At Thasos were two kinds of wine, of which
the one caused stupefaction, while the other was in
the highest degree exhilarating.[703] The wine called
anthosmias,[704] according to Phanias of Eresos, was
produced by mixing one part of salt-water with
fifty parts of wine, and it was considered best when
made with the grapes of young vines. The comic
poets are eloquent in praise of the wines of Thasos,
particularly of that mixed sort, of most agreeable
flavour, which was drunk in their Prytaneion. Theophrastus[705]
gives the recipe for making it. They threw,
he says, into the jars, a small quantity of flour
kneaded with honey, the latter to impart a sweet
odour to the wine, the former mildness. A similar
167effect was produced by mixing up hard inodorous
wine with one which was oily and fragrant.[706]
The wines of Cos, Myndos, and Halicarnassos, being
thought to temper the crudity of rain and well-water,
were, therefore, like all others containing a quantity
of salt-water, in great request at Athens and Sicyon,
where the springs were harsh. The Mareotic wine[707]
was made from vineyards on the banks of the lake
Mareotis, where the present Pasha has his gardens,
in the vicinity of Marea, once a place of considerable
importance, but now a small village. Attempts, however,
have been made by M. Abro, an Armenian, once
more to cover the ancient sites with vineyards, several
acres of ground being planted with cuttings imported
from the great nursery grounds at Chambéry, in Savoy.
The town of Marea derived its name, according to
tradition, from Maron,[708] a person who accompanied
Bacchos in his military expedition, and, in honour of
its founder, surrounded itself with the fruit-tree most
agreeable to that god. The grapes here produced
were delicious, and the wine, slightly astringent and
aromatic, had an exquisite flavour. The Mareotic
was white, of delicate taste, light, sparkling, and by
no means heady. The best sort was the Tæniotic,
so called from the tænia, “sandy eminences,” on which
the vineyards were situated. This wine, in its pure
state, had a greenish tinge, like the Johanisberg, and
was rich and unctuous; but, mingled with water, it
assumed the colour of Attic honey. By degrees the
vine grew to be cultivated along the whole course
of the Nile,[709] but its produce differed greatly in different
places, both in colour and quality. Among the
best was that of Antylla, a city near Alexandria,
168the revenues arising from which the ancient kings of
Egypt, and afterwards those of Persia, settled on their
queens for their girdle. The wines of the Thebaid,
particularly those made about Koptos, were so extremely
light as to be given even in fevers, as, moreover,
they passed quickly, and greatly promoted digestion.[710]
According to Nicander of Colophon, the word οἶνος,
“wine,” was derived from the name of Oineus, who
having squeezed out the juice of the grape into vases,
called it, after his own name, wine. Diphilos,[711] the
comic poet, gives us, however, something better than
etymologies in that burst of Bacchic enthusiasm in
which, in verses fragrant as Burgundy, he celebrates
the praises of the gift of Dionysos:
“Oh! friend to the wise, to the children of song,
Take me with thee, thou wisest and sweetest, along;
To the humble, the lowly, proud thoughts dost thou bring,
For the wretch who has thee is as blythe as a king:
From the brows of the sage, in thy humorous play,
Thou dost smooth every furrow, every wrinkle away;
To the weak thou giv’st strength, to the mendicant gold,
And a slave warmed by thee as a lion is bold.”
Nectar, the poetical drink of the gods, was a
sort of wine made near Olympos in Lydia, by mingling
with the juice of the grape a little pure
honey and flowers of delicate fragrance. Anaxandrides,
indeed, regards the nectar as the food of
the immortals, and ambrosia as their wine; in which
opinion he is upheld by Alcman and Sappho. But
Homer and Ibycos take an opposite view of the
matter.[712]
Alexis speaks of those who are half-seas-over
as much addicted to reasoning. Nicænetus[713] considers
wine as the Pegasus of a poet, mounted on
the wings of which like Trygæos on his beetle he
soars “to the bright heaven of invention.” At the
169port of Munychia, too, good wine was held in high
estimation; indeed, the honest folks of this borough,
with small respect for the water nymphs,
paid particular honour to the hero Acratopotes, that
is, in plain English, “one who drinks unmixed
wine.” Even among the Spartans,[714] in spite of their
cothons, and black broth, certain culinary artistes
set up in the Phydition, or common dining-hall,
statues in honour of the heroes Matton and Keraon,
that is, the genii of eating and drinking. In
Achaia, too, much reverence was paid to Deipneus,
or the god who presides over good suppers.[715]
As the Greeks had a marvellous respect for wine
they, like the German paper enthusiast, almost appeared
to imagine it could be made out of a stone.
They had, accordingly, fig wine,[716] root wine, palm
wine, and so on; and their made or mixed wines
were without number. There was scarcely an
island or city in the Mediterranean that did not
export its wines to Athens: they had the Lesbian,
the Eubœan, the Peparethian, the Chalybonian, the
Thasian, the Pramnian, and the Port wine. We
have already observed, that wine was drunk mixed
with flour,[717] and in the island of Theræ it was
thickened with the yolk of an egg. In the Megaris
they prepared with raisins or dried grapes[718]
a wine called passon, in taste resembling the Ægosthenic
sweet wine, or the Cretan malmsey. But,
however exquisite the wines themselves, it was not
thought enough in the summer months unless they
were brought to table cooled with ice or snow,[719]
which was accordingly the practice.
170
Having now gone rapidly through the materials
of which Grecian repasts consisted, it will next be
necessary to describe the manner in which all these
good things were disposed of, first to maintain the
energy of the frame, and secondly, for mere pleasure
and pastime. Locke, with many other modern
philosophers, erroneously supposes the Greeks of remote
antiquity to have been so abstemious as to
content themselves with one meal per diem. But
experience appears to have led all mankind on this
point to much the same conclusion; viz., that
health and comfort require men to eat at least
thrice in the day,[720] which accordingly was the practice
of the ancient Greeks, though Philemon and
others enumerate four repasts. Our own ancestors,
before the introduction of tea and coffee, appear
to have been very well content with beer or ale
for their morning’s meal, so that we could not pity
the Greeks even though it should be found that
they had nothing better[721] than hot rolls, muffins,
or crumpets, with strawberries, grapes, pears, and
a flask of Chian or Falernian. But they soon found
the necessity of some warm beverage; and though
it does not appear how it was prepared, they had
a substitute for tea,[722] in use at Athens, in Eubœa,
171in Crete, and, no doubt, in all other parts
of Greece. This meal, of whatever it consisted,
was called acratisma, or ariston, and eaten at break
of day.[723] Homer’s heroes, whose business was fighting,
just snatched a hasty meal, and hurried to the
field; but at Athens, where people had other employments,
they breakfasted early, to allow themselves
ample time for despatching their affairs in
the city, if they had any, and afterwards at their
neighbouring farms or villas.[724] The second repast,
deipnon, or dinner, seems to have been eaten about
eleven or twelve o’clock: the hesperisma,[725] equivalent
to our tea, late in the afternoon, and the
dorpon, or supper, the last thing in the evening.
But of these meals two only were serious affairs,
and the hesperisma was often dispensed with altogether.
In fact, Athenæus, a great authority
on this subject, considers it perfectly absurd to
suppose, that the frugal ancients could have
thought of eating so often as three times in one
day.[726]
As the greater includes the less, instead of confining
ourselves to the ordinary daily dinner of a
Greek, we shall in preference describe their grand
entertainments, introducing remarks on the former
by the way. These repasts were divided into three
classes, the public dinner, the pic-nic, and the marriage
172feast. The last, so far as it had any peculiar
features, has been described among the circumstances
attending matrimony. We have, therefore, for
the present, to do with two only; and, as the
Greek contrived to throw much of his ingenuity
into all matters connected with feasting and merry-making,
the discussion of this part of our subject
should savour strongly of mirth and jollity.
The grand dinner,[727] which they called eilapinè, was
generally given at the expense of an individual, and
its sumptuousness knew no limit but the means of
the host. Other kinds of feasts there were at which
all the members of a tribe, a borough, or a fraternity,
were entertained, not to speak for the present of the
common tables of the Cretans, Spartans, or Prytanes
of Athens. We now confine ourselves to those jovial
assemblages of private citizens whose object in meeting
was not so much the dinner, though that was
not overlooked, as the elevation of animal spirits and
flow of soul produced by the union of a thousand
different circumstances.
When a rich man desired to see his friends around
him at his board, he delivered to his deipnocletor[728]
a domestic kept for this purpose, a tablet, or as we
should say, a card, whereon the names of the persons
to be invited, with the day and hour fixed
upon for the banquet, were inscribed. With brothers
and other very near relations this ceremony was
thought unnecessary.[729] They came without invitation.
So likewise did another class of men, who,
living at large upon the public and lighting unbidden
upon any sport to which they were attracted by the
savour of a good dinner, were denominated[730] Flies,
173and occasionally Shades or Parasites. There was
at one time a law at Athens, which a good deal
nonplussed these gentlemen. It was decreed, that
not more than thirty persons should meet at a marriage
feast, and a wealthy citizen, desirous of “going
the whole hog,” had invited the full complement.
An honest Fly, however, who respected no law that
interfered with his stomach, contrived to introduce
himself, and took his station at the lower end of
the table. Presently the magistrate appointed for the
purpose, entered, and espying his man at a glance,
began counting the guests, commencing on the other
side and ending with the parasite. “Friend,” said
he, “you must retire. I find there is one person
more than the law allows.” “It is quite a mistake,
sir,” replied the Fly, “as you will find if you
will have the goodness to count again, beginning
on this side.”[731] Among the Egyptians, who shrouded
all their poetry in hieroglyphics, a fly was the emblem
of impudence, which necessarily formed the
principal qualification of a Parasite, and in Hume’s[732]
opinion is no bad possession to any man who would
make his way in the world.
Archbishop Potter,[733] in his account of Grecian entertainments,
observes, upon the authority of Cicero
174and Cornelius Nepos, that women were never invited
with the men.[734] But in this, as has been
shown in the proper place, he was misled by those
learned Romans; for, in many cities and colonies of
Greece, no banquet was given at which they were
not present. Even at Athens, where women of
character thought it unbecoming to mingle in the
convivial revelries of the men,[735] in which wine constantly
overleaps the boundaries of decorum, their
place was supplied by hetairæ, whose polished manners,
ready wit, and enlarged and enlightened understandings,
recommended them to their companions,
and caused the laxity of their morals to be forgotten.[736]
To proceed, however, with our feast: it will
readily be supposed, that gentlemen invited out to
dinner were careful to apparel themselves elegantly,
to shave clean, and arrange their beards and moustachios
after the most approved fashion of the day.
Even Socrates, who cared as little as most people
for external appearances, bathed, put on a pair of
new shoes, brushed his chlamys, and otherwise spruced
himself up when going to sup at Agathon’s with
Phædros, Aristophanes, Eryximachos, and other exquisites.
Even in Homeric times the bath was
175among the preliminaries to dinner, and guests arriving
from a distance were attended through all the
operations of the toilette by female slaves.[737] But
this general ablution was not considered sufficient.
On sitting down to table water was again presented
to every guest in silver[738] lavers or ewers of gold.
And since they ate with their fingers, as still is
the practice in the Levant, it was moreover customary
to wash the hands between every course,[739] and
wipe them,[740] in remoter ages, with soft bread, which
was thrown to the dogs, and in aftertimes with napkins.
The Arcadians, however, about whose mountains
all the old superstitions of Hellas clung like
bats, found a very different use for the cakes with
which they wiped their fingers. They supposed
them to acquire some mystic powers by the operation,
and preserved them as a charm against ghosts.[741]
But we are proceeding too fast, for the guests
are scarcely within doors, and our imagination has
jumped to the conclusion. To return then. Immediately
on entering, and when the host had welcomed
and shaken hands with all, such gentlemen as possessed
beards[742] had them perfumed over burning censers
of frankincense, as ladies have their tresses on
visiting a Turkish harem. The hands, too, after each
lavation, were scented.[743] Before sitting down to table,
176and while the cooks were peppering the soup, frying
the fish, or giving the roast-meat another turn,
politeness required the guests to take a stroll[744] in
the picture-gallery and admire the exquisite taste
of their entertainer in articles of virtu.[745] Here while
the scent of the savoury viands found its way through
every apartment, and set the bowels of the hungry
parasites croaking, the rogues who had lunched well
at home leisurely discussed the merits of Zeuxis or
Parrhasios, of Pheidias or Polygnotos, or opened
wide their eyes at the microscopic creations of
that Spartan artist whose chisel produced a chariot
and four that could be hidden under the wing of
a fly. At length, however, the connoisseurs were interrupted
in their learned disquisitions by the entrance
of Xanthos, Davos, or Lydos, with the welcome intelligence
that dinner was on the table.
But the appetites of the gourmands had still to
encounter another trial.[746] The Greeks were above
all things a pious people, and regarded every banquet,
nay, every meal, in the light of a sacrifice, at
which the first and best portion should be offered
as an oblation to the gods,[747] with invocations and
prayer, after which it was considered lawful to attend
to their own appetites. An altar, accordingly,
of Zeus stood in the midst of every dining-room,
on which these ceremonies were performed, and libations
of pure wine poured.[748] This done, the guests
177took their places, in the earlier ages on chairs, but
afterwards, when they had become familiar with the
East, on rich sofas, arranged round the board.[749] Occasionally,
however, even so late as the age of Alexander,[750]
princes and other great men chose to adopt
the ancient custom, and, on one occasion, that conqueror
himself entertained four hundred of his officers,
when seats of wrought silver, covered with
purple carpets, were provided for all.
The manner of reclining on the divans was not
a little ludicrous. For, at the outset, while the appetite
was keen, they stretched themselves flat upon
their stomachs, in order, I presume, to command
the use of both hands, and putting forward their
mouths towards the table looked like so many sparrows
with their open bills projecting over the nest.
But this they could conveniently do only when they
had a large space to themselves. When packed
close, as usually they were, one man, the chief in
dignity, throwing off his shoes,[751] placed himself on
the upper end of the divan, that is, next the host,
reclining on one elbow supported by soft cushions.
The head of the next man reached nearly to his
breast,—whence in Scripture, the beloved disciple
is said to recline on the bosom of Christ,[752]—while
the feet of the first extended down behind him.
The third guest occupied the same position with
respect to the second, and so on until five individuals
sometimes crowded each other on the same
sofa.
As the heaven of the poets was but a colossal
178picture of earth, we may, from the practice of the
gods, infer what took place among mortals, even
where supported by no direct testimony. Now, in
Homer, we find gods and goddesses mingling freely
together at the feast. Zeus takes the head of
the table, next him sits his daughter Athena, while
the imperial Hera, as Queen of Heaven, takes precedence
of all the she Olympians, by placing herself
at the head of the secondary divinities, directly
opposite her husband. On one occasion we find
Athena, the type of hospitality and politeness, yielding
up her seat of honour to Thetis, because, as an
Oceanid, she was somewhat of a stranger in Olympos.[753]
Potter has discussed, with more learning than
perspicuity, the question of precedence at table.
To render the matter perfectly intelligible would
require a plan of the dining-room; but wanting this,
it may be observed, that in Persia the king, or host
of whatever rank, sat in the middle, while the guests
ranged themselves equally on both sides of him.
In Greece, the bottom of the table was the end
next the door. Here no one sat, it being left open
for the servants to bring in and remove the dishes.
From this point, on either side, the seats augmented
in value, and consequently the post of greatest
honour was the middle of the other extremity.[754]
There were those, however, who made no account
of these matters, but suffered their guests to seat
themselves as they pleased. This was the case with
Timon, who, having invited a very miscellaneous
party, would not be at the pains to settle the question
of precedence between them; but a pompous
individual of aristocratic pretensions, dressed like an
actor, arriving late with a large retinue, and surveying
the company from the door, went away again,
observing, there was no fit place left for him. Upon
which the guests, who, as Plutarch remarks, were
179far gone in their cups, burst into shouts of laughter,
and bade him make the best of his way home.[755]
Some persons observed a very different order in
arranging their guests, grouping those together whom
they considered suited by age or temper to each
other, in order by this contrivance to produce general
harmony,—the vehement and impetuous being
placed beside the meek and gentle, the silent beside
the talkative, the ripe and full and expansive
minds beside those who were ready to receive instruction.
But very often, as at Agathon’s, those
sat next each other, who were most intimately acquainted
or united together by friendship; for thus
the greatest freedom of intercourse with the brightest
sallies of convivial wit were likely to be produced.
At length, however, we must imagine the guests
in their places and every thing in proper train. The
servants bring in first one well-covered table, then
a second, then a third, till the whole room is filled
with dainties. Brilliant lamps and chandeliers poured
a flood of light over the crowned heads of the guests,
over the piled sweetmeats, over the shining dishes,
and all the baits with which the appetite is caught.
Then, on silver pateræ, cakes whiter than snow were
served round. To these succeeded eggs, pungent
herbs, oysters, and thrushes.[756] Next several dishes
of rich eels, brown and crisp, sprinkled thickly with
salt, followed by a delicious conger dressed with
every rare device of cookery, calculated to delight
the palate of the gods. Then came the belly of a
large ray, round as a hoop; dishes, containing, one
some slices of a sea-dog, another garnished with a
sparos, a third with a cuttle-fish, or smoking polypus
whose legs were tender as a chicken. While the
sight of these dainties was feasting the eyes of the
180guests, the noses of the experienced informed them
of the approach of a synodon,[757] which perfumed the
passages all the way from the kitchen, and, flanked
with calamaries, covered the whole table. Shrimps
too were there in their yellow cuirasses, sweet in
flavour as honey, with delicious varieties of puff pastry
bordered with fresh green foliage.[758] The teeth
of the parasites watered at the sight. But while
deeply engaged in the discussion of these good things,
in came some smoking slices of broiled thunny, a mullet
fresh from the fish-kettle, with the teats of a
young sow cooked en ragoût.
Pleasure of all kinds being supposed to promote
digestion, female singers, flute-players and dancers,
were meanwhile exercising their several arts for the
entertainment of the guests. But as they paid very
little attention to them till the rage of hunger was
appeased, we shall imitate their example, and proceed
with the gourmandize. One of the greatest accomplishments
a boon companion could possess, was the
power to seize with the fingers, and swallow hissing-hot,
slices of grilled fish or morsels of lamb or veal
broiled like kabobs, so as to be slightly burnt and
cracking externally, while all the juice and flavour
of the meat remained within. And the acquirement
being highly important, great pains were taken
to become masters of it. For this purpose some
accustomed themselves daily to play with hot pokers,
others case-hardened their fingers by repeatedly
dipping them in water as hot as they could bear,
and gargled their throats with the same, while one
famous gourmand, more inventive than the rest, hit
upon the ingenious device of wearing metallic fingerlings
with which he could have seized a kabob
even from the gridiron. These proficients in the art
of eating, an art practised indeed by all, but possessed
in perfection by very few, enjoyed great advantages
over the ignorant and uninitiated. And
181accordingly, when invited out, they generally succeeded
in bribing the cook to send in all his dishes hot as
Phlegethon, that, while the more modest and inexperienced
guests sat gazing on, they might secure
the best cuts, and come again before the others
could venture on a mouthful.
Among the articles served up in this scorching state
were calf’s pluck, pig’s harslet, with the chine, the
kidneys, and a variety of small hors-d’œuvre. To
these may be added the head of a sucking-kid which
had tasted nothing but milk, baked between two
dishes well luted together; giblets boiled; small,
delicate hams with their white sward unbroken; pigs’
snouts and feet swimming in white sauce, which the
gourmand Philoxenos thought a rare invention.
Roast kid and lamb’s chitterlings, or the same viands
boiled, formed a supplement to the dishes above enumerated,
and were usually done so exactly to a turn,
that even the gods, Bacchos for example, and Hermes,
the parasites of Olympos, might have descended expressly
to wag their beards over them. But the Levantines
have always been enamoured of variety in cookery.
Lady Wortley Montague counted fifty dishes
served up in succession at the Sultana Hafiten’s table;
and this she-barbarian, with all her wealth, could
never rival the variety of invention of an ancient Eleian
or Sicilian cook, who usually closed the list of his
dainties with hare, chickens roasted to the gold-colour
celebrated by Aristophanes, partridges, pheasants,
wood-pigeons or turtle-doves, which your true gourmand
should eat in the Thebaid, immediately after
the close of harvest. But the dinner was not yet
over. There still remained the dessert to be disposed
of, consisting of pure honey from the district of the
silver mines, curdled cream, cheese-tarts, and all
that profusion of southern fruit of which we have
already spoken.[759]
It is a well-known rule among modern gourmands,
182that no man should utter a syllable at table till the
first course is removed, and precisely the same regulation
prevailed among the ancients. Silence, however,
was sometimes interrupted by the arrival of some
wandering buffoon, who, after long roaming about in
search of a dinner, happened, perhaps, to be attracted
thither by the wings and feathers ostentatiously scattered
before the door. This sort of gentry required
no introduction: they had only to knock and announce
themselves to ensure a ready welcome; for
most men would willingly part with a share of their
supper to be made merry over the remainder. The
Athenian demos was pre-eminently of this humour.
No king, in fact, ever kept up so large an establishment
of fools by profession, or, which is much the
same thing, of wits,—fellows who grind their understandings
into pointed jests to tickle the risible muscles
and expand the mouths of sleek junketters, who
esteem nothing beyond eating and grinning.
At a feast given by Callias, the famous jester,
Philip, a-kin in spirit, I trow, to him of Macedon, presented
himself in this way, and, on being admitted,—“Gentlemen,”
said he, “you know my profession and
its privileges, relying on which I am come uninvited,
being a foe to all ceremony, and desiring to
spare you the trouble of a formal invitation.”—“Take
your place,” replied the host; “your company
was much needed, for our friends appear to be
plunged up to the chin in gravity, and would be
greatly benefited by a hearty laugh.”[760]
In fact, the heads of the honest people were filled
with very serious meditations, being all in love, and endeavouring
to discover how each might excel the other
in absurdity. Philip began to fear, therefore, that he
had carried his jests to a bad market, and, in reality,
made many vain attempts to kindle the spirit of
mirth, and call home the imaginations of persons who
had evidently suffered them to stray as far as the
clouds. Aware that success on this point was indispensable
183to his subsistence, the jester grew piqued
at the indifference of his hearers, and breaking off
in the midst of his supper, wrapped up his head in
his chlamys, and lay down like one about to die.
“What, now!” cried Callias. “Has any sudden panic
seized on thee, friend?”—“The worst possible, by
Zeus!” replied Philip; “for, since laughter, like
justice, has taken its leave of earth, my occupation
is gone. Hitherto I have enjoyed some celebrity
in this way, living at the public expense, like the
guests of the Prytaneion, because my drollery was
effective, and could set the table in a roar. But it
is all over, I see, with me now, for I might as soon
hope to render myself immortal as acquire serious
habits.” All this he uttered in a pouting, desponding
tone, as if about to shed tears. The company, to
humour the joke, undertook to comfort him, and the
effect of their mock condolences, and assurances that
they would laugh if he continued his supper, was so
irresistibly ludicrous, that Autolychos, a youthful
friend of Callias, was at length unable to restrain
his merriment; upon which the jester took courage,
and apostrophising his soul, informed it very gravely,
that there would be no necessity for them to part
company yet.[761]
The Greeks had, properly speaking, no drawing-rooms,
so that, instead of retreating to another
part of the house, they had the tables themselves
removed immediately after dinner. Libations were
then poured out to Zeus Teleios, and having sung
a hymn to Phœbos Apollo, the amusements of the
evening commenced. Professional singers and musicians
were always hired on these occasions. They
were female slaves, selected in childhood for their
beauty and budding talents, and carefully educated
by their owners.[762] When not already engaged, they
stood in blooming bevies in the agora, waiting, like
the Labourers of Scripture, until some one should
184hire them, upon which they proceeded, dressed and
ornamented with great elegance, to the house of
feasting. But, besides these, there were other artistes
who contributed to the entertainment of the
demos, persons that, like our Indian jugglers, performed
wonderful feats by way of interlude between
the regular exhibitions of the damsels from the agora.[763]
Xenophon introduces into that living picture of
Greek manners called the Banquet, a company of
this kind. Finding Philip’s jokes dull things, he
brings upon the scene a strolling Syracusan, with
a beautiful female flute-player, a dancing girl who
could perform surpassing feats of activity, and a
handsome boy, who, besides performing on the cithara,
was likewise able, on occasion, to sport the toe like
his female companions.
But, where philosophers were present, amusements
of this kind were not allowed to occupy their whole
attention. Every thing that occurred was made a
handle for conversation, so that discussions, more or
less lively, according to the temperament or ability
of the interlocutors, formed the solid ground-work
upon which the flowers of gaiety and laughter were
spread. It was usual, immediately after supper, to
perfume the guests, and great was the variety of
unguents, essences, and odorous oils, made use of
by the rich and vain upon these occasions; but when
Callias proposed conforming to the mode in this
particular, Socrates objected, observing, that the
odour of honourable toil was perfume enough for a
man.[764] Women, indeed, to whom every thing sweet
and beautiful naturally belongs, might, he admitted,
make use of perfume, and they did so most lavishly
as we have already shown, when we entered their
dressing-room and assisted at their toilette.
The Greeks, however, were careful not to convert
185their pleasure-parties into a mere arena for the exhibition
of dialectic power. They from time to time
glanced at philosophy, but only by the way, in the
moments of transition from one variety of recreation
to another. Their conversation was now and then
brought to a pause by the rising of dancing girls,[765]
robed elegantly, as we behold them still on vases
and on bas-reliefs, in drapery adapted to display
all the beauty of their forms. Hoops were brought
them, and while musicians of their own sex called
forth thrilling harmonies from the flute, they executed
a variety of graceful movements, in part
pantomimic,—now casting up the hoops, now catching
them as they fell, keeping time exactly with the
cadences of the flute. Their skill in this accomplishment
was so great, that many were enabled to
keep up twelve hoops in the air at the same time,
while others made use of poniards.[766]
When the novelty of this exhibition was worn
off a little, other different feats followed. A hoop
stuck all round with upright swords was placed in
the midst of the apartment, into which one of the
dancing girls threw herself head foremost, and while
standing on her head balanced the lower part of
her body round over the naked points, to the infinite
terror of the spectators. She would then dart
forth between the swords, and, with a single bound,
regain her footing without the circle.[767] To add to
the entertainment of the company, some parasitical
buffoon would at times undertake to exhibit his
awkwardness as a foil to the grace of the dancers,
frisking about with the clumsy heaviness of a bear,
and exaggerating his own ignorance of orchestics to
excite a laugh. Sometimes the female dancer, like
our own fair tumblers, would throw back her head
till it reached her heels, and then putting herself
in motion, roll about the room like a hoop.hoop.[768] To
186these, as a relief and a change, would succeed, perhaps,
a youth with fine rich voice, who accompanied
himself on the lyre with a song.
But nothing could entirely restrain the Greeks
from indulging in the pleasure of listening to their
own voices. The buzz of conversation would soon
be heard in different parts of the room, which,
when Socrates was present, sometimes provoked
from him a sarcastic reproof. For example, at
Callias’s dinner, observing the company broken up
into knots, each labouring at some particular question
in dialectics, and filling the apartment with a
babel of confused murmurs; “As we talk all at
once,” said he, “we may as well sing all at
once;” and without further ceremony he pitched
his voice and began a song.[769]
But when professed jugglers happened to be present,
gentlemen were not long abandoned to their
own resources for amusement. Trick followed trick
in rapid succession. To the pantomimic dances, and
the sword circle, succeeded the exhibition of the
potter’s wheel, in which a young girl seated on this
machine, like a little Nubian at a cow’s-tail in a
sakia, was whirled round with great velocity,[770] but
retained so much self-possession as to be able both
to write and to read. These, however, were merely
sources of momentary wonder. Other amusements
succeeded capable of exciting superior delight, such
for example, as the mimetic dance, which, like that
of the ghawazi, could tell a whole story of love, of
adventure, of war, of religious frenzy and enthusiasm,
transporting by vivid representations the fancy
of the spectators to warmer or wilder scenes, calling
up images and reminiscences of times long past, or
steeping the thoughts in poetical dreams, filled with
the caverned nymphs, the merry Seileni, the frisking
satyrs, Bacchos, Pan, the Hours, the Graces, sporting
by moonlit fountains, through antique woods,
187or on the shelled and sand-ribbed margin of the
ocean.[771]
On some occasions a slight dramatic scene was
represented. Clearing the centre of the banqueting
hall, the guests ranged themselves in order as at
the theatre. A throne was then set up in the open
space, and a female actor, representing Ariadne, entering,
took her seat upon it, decked and habited
like a bride, and supposed to be in her Thalamos at
Naxos. Dionysos, who has been dining with Zeus,
comes flushed with Olympian nectar into the harem
to the sound of the Bacchic flute, while the nymph
who has heard his approaching footsteps makes it
manifest by her behaviour that her soul is filled
with joy, though she neither advances nor rises to
meet him, but restrains her feelings with difficulty,
and remains apparently tranquil. The god, drawing
near with impassioned looks, and dancing all the
while, now seats himself, and places the fair one on
his knee. Then, in imitation of mortal lovers, he
embraces and kisses her, nothing loth; for, though
she hangs down her head, and would wish to appear
out of countenance, her arms find their way
round his neck and return his embrace. At this
the company, we may be sure, clapped and shouted.
The god, encouraged by their plaudits, then stood
up with his bride, and going through the whole
pantomime of courtship, not coldly and insipidly,
but as one whose heart was touched, at length
demanded of Ariadne if in truth she loved him.
Sometimes the mimic scene concealed beneath it
all the reality of passion. From personating enamoured
characters, the youthful actor and his partner
learned in reality to love; and what was amusement
to others contained a deep and serious meaning
for them. This, Xenophon says, was the case with
the youth and maiden who enlivened the banquet
of Callias. Absorbed in the earnestness of their
188feelings, they seem to have forgotten the presence
of spectators, and instead of a stage representation,
gave them a scene from real life, where every impassioned
look and gesture were genuine, and every
fiery glance was kindled at the heart.[772]
This, however, may be considered a serious amusement,
and something like broad farce was necessary
to awaken the guests from the reverie into which
the love scene had plunged them. Jesters were,
therefore, put in requisition; and, as even they
sometimes failed to raise a laugh, their more humorous
brethren the wits and jesters of the forests,
or, in the language of mortals, monkeys were called
upon to dissipate the clouds of seriousness. These
were the favourite buffoons of the Scythian Anacharsis,—not
the Abbé Barthélemy’s,—who said,
he could laugh at a monkey’s tricks, because his
tricks were natural, but that he found no amusement
in a man who made a trade of it.[773] Nor
could Euripides at all relish punsters and manufacturers
of jokes, whom he considered, with some
reason, as a species of animal distinct from mankind.
Many there be who exercise their wits
In giving birth, by cutting jests, to laughter.
I hate the knaves whose rude unbridled tongues
Sport with the wise; and cannot for my life
Think they are men, though laughter doth become them,
And they have houses filled with treasured stores
But if Euripides found nothing desirable in laughter,
there were those who had a clean contrary creed,
and lamented nothing so much as the loss of their
risible faculties. On this subject Semos has a story
quite à propos. Parmeniscos, the Metapontine, having
descended, he says, into the cave of Trophonios,
became so extremely grave, that with all the appliances,
189and means to boot, furnished by wealth,
and they were not a few, he thereafter found himself
quite unable to screw up his muscles into a
smile; which taking much to heart, as was natural,
he made a pilgrimage to Delphi, to inquire by what
means he might rid himself of the blue devils. Somewhat
puzzled at the strangeness of the inquiry, the
Pythoness replied,—
Poor mortal unmerry, who seekest to know
What will bid thy brow soften, thy quips and cranks flow,
To the house of the mother I bid thee repair—
Thou wilt find, if she’s pleased, what thy heart covets, there.
Upon this, Parmeniscos hastened homeward, hoping
soon to enjoy a good laugh as the reward of his industry;
but, finding his features remain fixed as cast-iron,
he began to suspect the oracle had deceived him.
Some time after, being at Delos, he beheld with admiration
the several wonders of the island, and, lastly,
proceeded to the temple of Leto, expecting to find in
the mother of Apollo something worthy of so great
a divinity. But, on entering and perceiving, instead,
a grotesque and smoky old figure in wood, he burst
into an immoderate fit of laughter, whereupon the
response of the oracle recurred to his mind, and he
understood it; and, being thus delivered from his
infirmity, he ever after held the goddess in extremest
reverence.[775]
Even from this story, therefore, it will be seen
how highly “broad grins” were estimated in antiquity,
particularly at Athens, where there was a
regular “Wits’ Club,” consisting of threescore members,
who assembled during the Diomeia,[776] in the
temple of Heracles. The names of several of these
jovial mortals have come down to us; Mandrogenes,
for example, and Strato, Callimedon, who,
for some particular quality of mind or body, obtained
190the sobriquet of the Lobster, Deinias, Mnasigeiton,
and Menæchmos. The reputation of these
gentlemen spread rapidly through the city, and,
when a good thing had a run among the small wits,
it was remarked, that “the Sixty had said that.”
Or, if a man of talent were asked, whence he came,
he would answer, “From the Sixty.” This was in
the time of Demosthenes, when, unhappily, jesters
were in more request in Athens than soldiers; and
Philip of Macedon, himself no mean buffoon, learning
the excellent quality of their bon mots, sent them
a present of a talent of gold, with a request that,
as public business prevented his joining the sittings
of the club, they would make for his use a collection
in writing of all their smart sayings, which
was, probably, the first step towards those repositories
for stray wit, called “Joe Millers,” that form
so indispensable a portion of a bon vivant’s library.[777]
But we are all this while detaining the company
from their wine, and those other recreations which
the fertile genius of the Greeks invented to make
the wheels of life move smoothly. Though the tables,
according to the fashion of the times, were removed
with the solid viands, others were brought in to replace
them, on which the censers, the goblets, the
silver or golden ladles for filling the smaller cups,
were arranged in order.[778] The chairman, or, as he
was then called, the king of the feast,[779] enjoyed absolute
power over his subjects, and could determine
better than their own palates, how much and
how often each man should drink. This important
functionary was not always identical with the entertainer,
but sometimes his substitute, sometimes
191a person chosen by lot.[780] Capacious bowls of wine,[781]
mingled with water, were placed on a sideboard,
whence cup-bearers, sometimes of one, sometimes
of the other sex, but always selected for their youth
and beauty, filled, with ladles,[782] the goblets of the
guests, which, when the froth rose above the brim,
were, by an obvious metaphor, said to be crowned.[783]
Among the Doric Greeks, female cup-bearers seem
to have been always preferred; the Ptolemies of
Egypt cherished the same taste; and the people
of Tarentum, themselves of Doric race, passing
successively through every stage of luxury, came,
at length, to be served at table by beautiful young
women without a vestige of clothing. In most
cases, these maidens were slaves, but, in some countries,
and everywhere, in remoter ages, the performance
of such offices was not regarded as any way
derogatory to persons of noble or princely blood.
But, whatever might be their birth, beauty of form
and countenance constituted their chief recommendation.
For there is a language in looks and gestures,
there is a fountain of joy and delight concealed
deep in the physical structure, and its waters
laugh to the eye of intellect, and reflect into the
hearts of those who behold it a sunniness and exhilaration
greater than we derive from gazing on the
summer sea. Hence, Hebe and Ganymede were
chosen to minister at the tables of the gods, even
Zeus himself[784] not disdaining to taste of the pleasures
to be derived from basking in the irradiations
of beauty.
When the goblets were all crowned with the
192nectar of earth, the Master of the Feast[785] set the
example of good-fellowship by drinking to his guests,
beginning with the most distinguished.[786] Originally,
custom required him who drank to the health of
another to drain off his cup while his comrade did
the same; but, in after ages, they sipped only a portion
of the wine, and, as they still do in the East,
presented the remainder to their friend. The latter,
by the rules of politeness, was bound to finish the
goblet, or, where the antique fashion prevailed, to
drink one of equal size.[787] The Macedonians, who,
probably, excelled the Greeks in drinking, if in nothing
else, disdained small cups as supplying a very
roundabout way to intoxication, and plunged into
Lethe at once by the aid of most capacious bowls.
It was customary, when the practice of passing round
the goblet had been introduced, for the king of the
feast to drink to the next man on his right hand,
who, in his turn, drank to the next, and so on till
the bowl had circulated round the board. But different
customs prevailed in the different parts of
Greece. At Athens, small cups, like our wine-glasses,
were in use; among the Chians, Thracians,
and Thessalians, nations more prone to sensual indulgences,
the goblets were of larger dimensions;
but, at Sparta, where sobriety and frugality long
flourished, the practice was to drink from diminutive
vessels, which, as often as required, were replenished
by the attendants.[788]
Isocrates, in his exhortation to Demonicos, marks
the distinction between the true and false friend,
by observing, that, while the latter thinks only of
those around him, the former remembers the absent,
and makes his affection triumph over time and distance.
And the Greeks generally had this merit.
193Amid the enjoyments of the festive board, they recalled
to mind the friends of other days; and, having
first performed libations to the gods, those best and
purest of friends, drank to the health and prosperity
of former associates, now far removed by circumstances,[789]
and this they did not in the mixed beverage
which formed their habitual potations, but in
pure wine.[790] There was something extremely delicate
in this idea, for tacitly it intimated, that their
love placed the objects of it almost on a level with
their divinities, in whose honour, also, on these occasions,
a small portion of the wine was spilt in
libations[791] upon the earth. The young, in whose
hearts a mistress held the first place,[792] drank deeply
in honour of their beloved, sometimes equalling
the number of cups to that of the letters forming
her name,[793] which, if the custom prevailed so early,
would account for Ægisthos’s being a sot. Sometimes,
however, taking the hint from the number of the
Graces, they were satisfied with three goblets; but,
when an excuse for drinking “pottle deep” was
sought, they chose the Muses for their patrons, and
honoured their mistresses’ names with three times
three.[794] This is the number of cheers with which
favourite political toasts are received at our public
dinners, though every one who fills his bumper, and
cries “hip, hip, hip, hurrah!” on these occasions,
is, probably, not conscious that he is keeping up an
old pagan custom in honour of the Muses.
The number four was in no favour at the drinking-table,
not because it was an even number, for they
sometimes drank ten, but because some old superstition
had brought discredit on it. Our very fox-hunters,
however, exhibit an inferior capacity to many
194of the ancients in affairs of the bottle, though when
it is the poets who perform the feat, we may safely
consider them to be simply regaling their fancies on
“air-drawn” goblets, which cost nothing, and leave
no head-aches behind them. On this subject there
is a very pretty song in the Anthology, which Potter,
following some old edition, completely misrepresents.[795]
It deserves to be well translated, and I would translate
it well if I could. The following at least preserves
the meaning:
Pour out ten cups of the purple wine,
To crown Lycidicè’s charms divine;
One for Euphrantè, young and fair,
With the sparkling eye and the raven hair.
Then I love Lycidicè more, you say?
By this foaming goblet I say ye nay.
More valued than ten is Euphrantè to me,
For, as when the heavens unclouded be,
And the stars are crowding far and nigh
On the deep deep blue of the midnight sky,
The moon is still brighter and lovelier far
Than the loveliest planet or brightest star;
So, ’mid the stars of this earthly sphere,
None are so lovely or half so dear
As to me is Euphrantè young and fair,
With the sparkling eye and the raven hair.
[796]
But the Macedonians entertained no respect for
poetical goblets: they loved to scent their moustachios
with the aroma of the real rosy wine when it sparkled
in the cup,—when it moved itself aright, as the wise
king of Judah expresses it. Plutarch describes briefly
one of their drinking-bouts which took place on the
evening of the day wherein old Kalanos, the Hindù
Yoghi, burnt himself alive to escape the colic.
Alexander, on returning from the funeral pile, invited
a number of his friends and generals to sup
with him, and, proposing a drinking contest, appointed
a crown for the victor. Prodigious efforts were made
by all present to achieve so enviable a triumph; but
the man who proved himself to possess the most
capacious interior was Promachos, who is said to have
195swallowed upwards of two gallons. He obtained
the prize, which was a golden crown, valued at a
talent, but died within three days.[797] Chares, the Mitylenian,
relates the matter somewhat differently. According
to him, Alexander celebrated funeral games
in honour of Kalanos, at his barrow, where horseraces
and gymnastic contests took place,[798] and a poetical
encomium was pronounced upon the Yoghi, who,
like the rest of his countrymen, was, doubtless, a
great toper, and thence the drinking-match instituted
in the evening. Chares says there were three prizes;
the first, in value, a talent; the second, thirty minæ,
or about a hundred and twenty pounds sterling; the
third, three minæ. The number of aspirants is not
stated, but thirty-five (Plutarch says forty-one) perished
in cold shiverings on the spot, and six more died
shortly after in the tents.[799]
Numbers have celebrated the military genius of
Alexander; but Athenæus alone has given him due
credit for his truly royal power of drinking. Like
his father, Philip, who, in his jolly humour, ruffled
the Athenian dead at Chæronea, where he could
safely beard the fallen republicans, Alexander delighted
to spend his evenings among drunken roysterers,
whose chief ambition consisted in making a butt of
their bowels. One of these worthies was Proteas,
the Macedonian mentioned by Ephippos, in his work
on the sepulture of Alexander and Hephæstion. He
was a man of iron constitution, on which wine, whatever
quantity he drank, appeared to make no impression.
Alexander, knowing this, loved to pledge
him in huge bowls, such as none, perhaps, but themselves
could cope with. This he did even at Babylon,
where the climate suffers few excesses to be
indulged in with impunity. Taking a goblet more
like a pail than a drinking-cup, Alexander caused it
to be crowned with wine, which, having tasted, he
presented the bowl to Proteas. The veteran immediately
196drained it off, to the great amusement of
the company, and presently afterwards, desiring to
pledge the king, he filled it up again, and sipping
a little, according to custom, passed the bowl to
Alexander, who, not to be outdone by a subject,
forthwith drank the whole. But if he possessed
the courage, he wanted the physical strength of
Proteas: the goblet dropped from his hand, his
head sank on a pillow, and a fever ensued of which
the conqueror of Persia, and the rival of Proteas
in drinking, died in a few days.[800]
But to return from these barbarians: as the
presence of sober persons must always be felt by
hard drinkers to be a tacit reproach, it was one
of the rules of good fellowship, that all such as
joined not in the common potations should depart.
“Drink, or begone!” said the law, and a good
one in Cicero’s opinion it was, for if men experienced
no disposition to join in the mirth and
enjoyment of the company, what had they to do
there?[801]
From the existence of these rules, however, an
inference has been drawn unfavourable to the Greek
character, as if, because some were merry, the nation
generally must of necessity have been wine-bibbers.[802]
But this is scarcely more logical than the
reasoning of a writer, who, because the comic poets
speak chiefly of the mirth and lighter enjoyments
of the Athenians, very gravely concludes that they
busied themselves about little else. The truth
is, that like all ardent and energetic people, they
threw their whole souls into the affair, whether
serious or otherwise, in which they happened to
be engaged; and besides, while the careful and industrious
applied themselves to business, there was
always an abundance of light and trifling people
to whom eating and drinking constituted a serious
occupation.
197
The man upon the creations of whose art the
principal enjoyments of Greek gourmands were based
was the cook,[803] whose character and achievements
ought not perhaps to be entirely passed over. We
are, indeed, chiefly indebted for our information to
the comic poets; but, in spite of some little exaggeration,
the likeness they have bequeathed to us
is probably upon the whole pretty exact.
The Athenian cook was a singularly heterogeneous
being, something between the parasite and the professed
jester; he was usually a poor citizen, with
all the pride of autochthoneïty about him, who
considered it indispensable to acquire, besides his
culinary lore, a smattering of many other kinds of
knowledge, not only for the purpose of improving
his soups or ragouts, but in order, by the orations
he pronounced in praise of himself, to dazzle and
allure such persons as came to the agora in search
of an artist of his class. Of course the principal
source of his oratory lay among pots and frying-pans,
and the wonders effected by his art. Philemon
hits off with great felicity one of these worthies,
who desires to convey a lofty opinion of himself,—
“How strong is my desire ’fore earth and heaven,
To tell how daintily I cooked his dinner
’Gainst his return! By all Athena’s owls!
198’Tis no unpleasant thing to hit the mark
On all occasions. What a fish had I—
And ah! how nicely fried! Not all bedevilled
With cheese, or browned atop, but though well done,
Looking alive, in its rare beauty dressed.
With skill so exquisite the fire I tempered,
It seemed a joke to say that it was cooked.
And then, just fancy now you see a hen
Gobbling a morsel much too big to swallow;
With bill uplifted round and round she runs
Half choking; while the rest are at her heels
Clucking for shares. Just so ’twas with my soldiers;
The first who touched the dish upstarted he
Whirling round in a circle like the hen,
Eating and running; but his jolly comrades,
Each a fish worshiper, soon joined the dance,
Laughing and shouting, snatching some a bit,
Some missing, till like smoke the whole had vanished.
Yet were they merely mud-fed river dabs:
But had some splendid scaros graced my pan,
Or Attic glaucisk, or, O saviour Zeus!
Kapros from Argos, or the conger eel,
Which old Poseidon exports to Olympos,
To be the food of gods, why then my guests
Had rivalled those above. I have, in fact,
The power to lavish immortality
On whom I please, or, by my potent art,
To raise the dead, if they but snuff my dishes!”
[804]
This honest fellow, in the opinion of Athenæus,
exceeded in boasting even that Menecrates of Syracuse,
who for his pride obtained the surname of
Zeus; he was a physician, and used vauntingly to
call himself the arbiter of life to mankind. He
is supposed to have possessed some specific against
epilepsy; but being afflicted with a vanity at least
equal to his skill, he would undertake no one’s
cure unless he first entered into an agreement to
follow him round the country ever after as his
slave, which great numbers actually did. Nicostratos,
of Argos, one of the persons so restored,
travelled in his train habited and equipped like
Heracles; others personated Asclepios, and Apollo,
while Menecrates himself enacted in this fantastic
199masquerade the part of Zeus; and, as the actors
say, he dressed the character well, wearing a purple
robe, a golden crown upon his head, sandals of the
most magnificent description, and bearing a sceptre
in his hand.[805]
But whatever might have been the conceit of
our Syracusan physician, there were those among
the cooking race, who certainly lagged not far behind
him. They usually stunned such as came to
hire them with reciting their own praises, laying
claim to as much science and philosophy as would
have sufficed to set up two or three sophists. In
fact, to take them at their word, there was nothing
which they did not know, nothing which they
could not do. Painting they professed to comprehend
as profound connoisseurs, and, no doubt, the
soles they fried tasted all the better for the accomplishment.
In astronomy, medicine, and geometry,
they appear to have made a still greater proficiency
than Hudibras, notwithstanding that—
“In mathematics he was greater
Than Tycho Brahe, or Erra Pater;
For he by geometric scale
Could take the size of pots of ale;
Discern by sines and tangents strait
If bread and butter wanted weight;
And wisely tell what hour o’ the day
The clock does strike by algebra.”
In all this he was a fool to the Athenian cooks;
for, by the help of astronomy, they could tell when
mackerel was in season, and at what time of the
year a haddock is better than a salmon. From
geometry they borrowed the art of laying out a
kitchen to the best advantage, and how to hang
up the gridiron in one place, and the porridge-pot
in another. To medicine it is easy to see how
deeply they must have been indebted, since it not
only taught them what meats are wholesome, and
200what not, but also enabled them by some sleight of
art to diminish the appetite of those voracious parasites,
who when they dined out appeared to have
stomachs equal in capacity to the great tun of
Heidelberg.[806]
Many individuals, half guests, half parasites, used
to extract considerable matter for merriment out
of the dinner materials, that they might render
themselves agreeable, and be invited again. Thus
Charmos, the Syracusan, used to convert every dish
served at table into an occasion for reciting poetical
quotations or old proverbs, and sometimes, perhaps,
suffered the fish to cool while he was displaying
his erudition. He had always civil things to
say both to shell-fish and tripe, so that a person
fond of flattery might have coveted to be roasted,
in order that his shade might be soothed with this
kind of incense, which even Socrates allowed was
not an illiberal enjoyment. It was, however, a
common custom among parasites to make extracts
from the poets and carry them in portfolios to the
tables of their patrons, where they recited all such
as appeared to be à propos. In this way the above
Charmos obtained among the people of Messina the
reputation of a learned man, and Calliphanes,[807] son
of Parabrycon,[808] succeeded no less ingeniously by
copying out the first verses of various poems, and
reciting them, so that it might be supposed he
knew the whole.
Cleanthes, of Tarentum, always spoke at table
in verse, so likewise did the Sicilian Pamphilos;
and these parasites, travelling about with wallets
of poetry on their backs, were everywhere welcomed
and entertained, which might with great
201propriety have been adduced by Ilgen[809] among
his other proofs of the imaginative character of the
Greeks.
Archestratos, the Syracusan, belonged no doubt to
this class. He composed an epic poem on good eating,
which commenced with recommending that no company,
assembled for convivial enjoyment, should ever
exceed four,[810] or at most five, otherwise he said
they would rather resemble a troop of banditti than
gentlemen. It had probably escaped him, that there
were twenty-eight guests at Plato’s banquet. Antiphanes,
after observing that the parasites had lynx’s
eyes to discover a good dinner though never invited,
immediately adds, that the republic ought to get up
an entertainment for them, upon the same principle
that during the games an ox[811] was slaughtered some
distance from the course at Olympia, to feast the
flies, and prevent them from devouring the spectators.
Besides Archestratos, there were several other celebrated
gastronomers among the ancients. Of these
the principal were Timachidas, of Rhodes, who wrote
a poem in eleven books on good eating,[812] Noumenios,
of Heraclea, pupil to the physician Dieuches,
Metreas, of Pitana, the parodist Hegemon, of Thasos,
surnamed the Lentil, by some reckoned among the
poets of the old comedy, Philoxenos, of Leucadia,
and a second Philoxenos, of Cythera, who composed
his work in hexameter verse. The former, after
chaunting the eulogium of the kettle, comes nevertheless
to the conclusion at last, that superior merit
belongs to the frying-panfrying-pan. He earnestly recommended
truffles to lovers, but would not have them touch the
202barbel. His anger burst forth with great vehemence
against those who cut in pieces fish which should
be served up whole; and, though he admits that a
polypus may occasionally be boiled, it was much
better, he says, to fry it. From this man the Philoxenian
cakes derived their name; and he it is whom
Chrysippos reproaches with half scalding his fingers
in the warm bath and gargling his throat with hot
water, in order that he might be able to swallow
kabobs hissing from the coals.[813] He likewise used,
at the houses of his friends, to bribe the cooks to
bring up everything fiery hot, that he might help
himself before any one else could touch them. A
kindred gourmand, in the poet Krobylos, exclaims:
“My fingers are insensible to fire like the Dactyls
of Mount Ida. And ah! how delightful it is to
refresh my throat with the crackling flakes of
broiled fish! Oh I am in fact an oven, not a
man!”
According to Clearchos it was this same Philoxenos,
who used to maraud about rich men’s houses,
followed by a number of slaves laden with wine,
vinegar, oil, and other seasonings. Wherever he
smelled the best dinner he dropped in unasked, and
slipping slily among the cooks, obtained their permission
to season the dishes they were preparing, after
which he took his place among the guests where he
fed like a Cyclops. Arriving once at Ephesos, by
sea, he found, upon inquiry in the market, that all
the best fish had been secured for a wedding feast.
Forthwith he bathed, and repairing to the house of
the bridegroom, demanded permission to sing the
Epithalamium. Every one was delighted; they could
do no less than invite him to dinner. And “Will
you come again to-morrow?” inquired the generous
host. “If there be no fish in the market,” replied
Philoxenos. It was this gourmand who wished
nature had bestowed on man the neck of the
203crane that the pleasure of swallowing might be prolonged.[814]
Pithyllos, another parasite, surnamed “the Dainty,”
not content with the membrane which nature has
spread over the tongue, superinduced artificially a
sort of mucous covering, which retained for a considerable
time the flavour of what he ate.[815] To prolong
his luxurious enjoyment as much as possible,
he afterwards scraped away this curious coating with
a fish. Of all ancient gourmands he alone is said
to have made use of artificial finger-points, that he
might be enabled to seize upon the hottest morsels.
An anecdote so good as to have given rise
to many modern imitations, is related of Philoxenos,
of Cythera. Dining one day with Dionysios, of Syracuse,
he observed a large barbel served up to the
prince, while a very diminutive one was placed before
him. Upon this, taking up the little fish, he
held it to his ear and appeared to be listening attentively.
Dionysios, expecting some humorous extravagance,
made a point of inquiring the meaning
of this movement, and Philoxenos replied, that
happening just then to think of his Galatea,[816] he
was questioning the barbel respecting her. But as
it makes no answer, said he, I imagine they have
taken him too young and that he does not understand
me. I am persuaded, however, that the old
fellow they have placed before your majesty must
know all about it. The king, amused by his ingenuity,
immediately sent him the larger fish which
he soon questioned effectually.[817]
But the Athenians were not reduced to depend
for amusement at table upon the invention of these
204humble companions. They knew how, when occasion
required, to entertain themselves, and, in the
exuberance of their hilarity, descended for this purpose
to contrivances almost infantine. They posed
each other with charades, enigmas, conundrums, and,
sometimes, in the lower classes of society, related
stories of witches, lamias, mormos, and other hobgoblins
believed in by the vulgar of all nations.
Among persons engaged in public affairs the excitement
of political discussion was often, of course,
intermingled with their more quiet pleasures.[818] But
with this we have, just now, nothing to do, nor
with the enigmas which we shall describe anon.
There was another and more elegant practice observed
by the Greeks at convivial meetings, which,
though not peculiar to them, has nowhere else, perhaps,
prevailed to the same extent,—I mean the introduction
of music and the singing of songs,[819] light,
graceful, and instinct with wit and gaiety, to the
barbitos or the lyre.
Among the Greeks, generally, the love of music
and poetry seemed to be a spontaneous impulse of
nature. Almost every act of life was accompanied
by a song,—the weaver at his loom, the baker at
his kneading-trough, the reaper, the “spinners and the
knitters in the sun,” the drawer of water, even the
hard-working wight who toiled at the mill, had his
peculiar song, by the chaunting of which he lightened
his labour. The mariner, too, like the Venetian
gondolier, sang at the oar, and the shepherd and
the herdsman, the day-labourer and the swineherd,
the vintager and the husbandman, the attendant
in the baths, and the nurse beside the cradle. It
might, in fact, be said, that from an Hellenic village
music arose as from a brake in spring. Their
sensibilities were tremblingly alive to pleasure.
There was elasticity, there was balm in their atmosphere,
205and joy and freedom in their souls.—How
could they do other than sing?
But, if music and poetry thus diffused their delights
over the industry of the laborious, it was
quite natural that where men met solely for enjoyment,
these best handmaids of enjoyment should not
be absent. Accordingly, we find that while the
goblet circulated, kindling the imagination, and unbending
the mind, the lyre was brought in and a
song called for. Nor was the custom of recent
date. It prevailed equally in the heroic ages, and,
like many other features of Greek manners, derived
its origin from religion. For, in early times, men
rarely met at a numerous banquet, except on occasion
of some sacrifice, when hymns in honour of the
gods constituted an important part of the ceremonies.
Thus Homer, describing the grand expiatory
rites by which the Achæan host sought to avert the
wrath of Apollo, observes, that they made great
feasts, and celebrated the praises of the god amid
their flowing goblets.[820]
Yet, though the theme of those primitive songs
may have been at first serious, it was, probably, not
long before topics better adapted to festive meetings
obtained the preference. At all events, they
soon came to be in fashion. The first step appears
to have been from the gods to the heroes, whose
achievements, being sometimes tinged with the ludicrous,
opened the door to much gay and lively description.
And these convivial pleasures,[821] so highly
valued on earth, were, with great consistency, transferred
to Olympos, where the immortals themselves
were thought to heighten their enjoyments by songs
and merriment.
In the ages following, the art of enhancing thus the
delights of social intercourse, so far from falling into
206neglect, grew to be more than ever cultivated. Even
the greatest men, beginning from the Homeric Achilles,
disdained not to sing. They did not, says a judicious
and learned writer, consider it sufficient to perform
deeds worthy of immortality, or to be the theme of
poets and musicians, or so far to cultivate their minds
as to be able to relish and appreciate the songs of
others, but included music within the circle of their
own studies, as an accomplishment without which no
man could pretend to be liberally educated. For this
reason it was objected by Stesimbrotos, as a reproach
to Cimon, that he was ignorant of music, and every
other gentlemanly accomplishment held in estimation
among the Greeks;[822] and even Themistocles himself
incurred the charge of rusticity, because, when challenged
at a party, he refused to play on the cithara.[823]
A different theory of manners prevailed among the
Romans, who, like the modern Turks, considered it
unbecoming a gentleman to sing. But to the Greeks,
a people replete with gaiety and ardour, and whose
amusements always partook largely of poetry, music
presented itself under a wholly different aspect, and
was so far from appearing a mean or sordid study,
that no branch of education was held in higher honour,
or esteemed more efficacious in promoting tranquillity
of mind, or polish and refinement of manners. The
lyre is accordingly said, by Homer, to be a divine
gift, designed to be the companion and friend of
feasts, where it proved the source of numerous advantages.
In the first place, persons too much addicted
to the bottle found in this instrument an ally against
their own failing, for, whether playing or listening,
a cessation from drinking was necessarily effected.
Rudeness also and violence, and that unbridled audacity
commonly inspired by wine, were checked by
music, which, in their stead, inspired a pleasing exaltation
207of mind, and joy free from all admixture of
passion.[824]
It has already been observed that the convivial
song soon divested itself of its religious and sombre
character; for, as parties are made up of persons differing
extremely in taste and temperament, it necessarily
happened that when each was required to sing,
much variety would be found in the lays, which generally
assumed a festive and jocund air. Hymns in
honour of the gods were more sparingly introduced,[825]
nor was much stress laid on the praises of heroes;[826]
the spirit of joviality moulded itself into
Quips and cranks, and wanton wiles;
Nods and becks, and wreathed smiles.
Every one poured forth what the whim of the moment
inspired,—jokes, love-songs, or biting satires,
with the freedom and fertility of an improvisatore.[827]
These convivial songs were divided by the ancients
into several kinds, with reference sometimes to their
nature, sometimes to the manner in which they were
chaunted: the most remarkable they denominated Scolia,
or zig-zag songs,[828] for a reason somewhat difficult of
explanation. Several of the later Greek writers appear
to have been greatly at a loss to account for
the appellation, which is, no doubt, a singular one;
but the learning and diligence of Ilgen[829] may be
said to have fully resolved this curious question.
After determining the antiquity of the Scolion, which
Pindar[830] supposes to have been an invention of Terpander,
208or, at least, the verses of the song, but which
Ilgen dates as far back as the heroic period, he observes,
that the name itself was known in very remote
ages, since they formed a separate class among the
works of Pindar, and are mentioned by Aristophanes
and Plato,[831] and that, like the Cyclic chorus, it arose
out of the circumstances under which it was sung.
For as this chorus was called Cyclic, or circular, because
chaunted by persons moving in a circle round
the altar of Bacchos, so the Scolion, or zig-zag song,[832]
received its name from the myrtle branch, or the
cithara, to which it was sung, being passed from one
guest to another in a zig-zag[833] fashion, just as those
who possessed the requisite skill happened to sit at table.
To render this explanation perfectly intelligible,
it will, perhaps, be necessary to describe succinctly
the whole process of singing in company. At first,
it has been conjectured, when manners were rude,
and the language still in its infancy, singing, like
dancing, required no great art, and was little more
than those wild bursts of melody still common among
the improvisatori of Arabia and other Eastern countries,
but that from these humble beginnings lyrical
poetry took its rise, preserving still the freedom of
its original state, and rising, unshackled by the rigid
laws of metre, to heights of sublimity and grandeur
beyond which no human composition ever soared.
By degrees some complex forms of verse obtained
the preference,—such, for example, as those of Sappho
and Alcæos,—and fixed and definite laws of metre
were established.
209The Scolion, however, always preserved something
of its original spontaneous character, at least in appearance,
and the same thing may be predicated of
all their festive lays. But before they gave loose to
their gaiety, the deep religious sentiment which pervaded
the whole nation required a pæan, or hymn,
to be sung in honour of the gods, and in this every
person present joined.[834] While thus engaged, each
guest, it is supposed, held in his hand a branch of
laurel, the tree sacred to Apollo.[835] To the pæan succeeded
another air, which all present sang in their turn,
holding this time a branch of myrtle,[836] which, like
the laurel bough mentioned above, was called æsakos,
or the “branch of song.”[837] The singing commenced
with the principal guest, to whom the symposiarch
or host delivered the Cithara[838] and æsakos, demanding
a song, which, according to the laws of the table, no
one could refuse. Having performed his part, the
singer was, in turn, entitled to call upon his neighbour,
beginning on the right hand, and delivering to
him the Cithara and the myrtle branch. The second,
when he had sung, handed it then to the
third, the third to the fourth, and so on until the
whole circle of the company had been made. It
sometimes happened, though not often, that among
the guests an individual, unskilled in instrumental
music, was found, and, in this case, he sang without
accompaniment, holding the æsakos in his hand.[839]
The poets who had the honour thus to cheer the
convivial hours of the Greeks were, in remoter times,
Simonides and Stesichoros, and, probably, Anacreon,
with others of the same grade;[840] and, if we may
credit Aristophanes, songs were also selected from
the plays of Æschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides, as
210among ourselves from Shakespeare, Beaumont and
Fletcher, or Ben Jonson. It may even be inferred
that passages from Homer himself[841] were sung on
these occasions; or, if not sung, they were certainly
recited by rhapsodists introduced for the purpose into
the assembly, who, holding a laurel branch while thus
engaged, probably gave rise to the practice of passing
round the myrtle bough. This branch, therefore,
whether of myrtle or laurel,[842] constituted a part of a
singer’s apparatus. The latter was originally chosen
as sacred to Apollo, the patron of music, and because
it was also believed to be endowed with something
of prophetic power, the Pythoness eating its leaves
before she ascended the tripod, while it was the symbol
of ever-during song. Instead of the laurel,
myrtle was afterwards introduced, on account, probably,
of its being sacred to Aphrodite, whose praises
were celebrated in those amatory songs common at
feasts. It may, likewise, have been considered an
emblem of republican virtue, since Harmodios and
Aristogeiton concealed their swords in a myrtle
wreath.[843]
To proceed, however, with the Scolia. These
lays, like the rest, made the circle of the company,
though not by passing in an unbroken series from
man to man, but, as has already been said, from one
skilful singer to another. In fact, the chanting of the
scolia was a kind of contest which took place when all
the other songs were concluded.[844] The person who
occupied the seat of honour chanted to the Cithara
a song containing the praises of some mortal or
immortal, or the developement of some moral precept
or erotic subject, which was comprehended in
a small number of verses. When he had finished,
he handed the Cithara and myrtle, at his own discretion,
to some other among the guests, and the
211person thus challenged, who could not refuse without
passing for an illiterate clown, must at once take
up the same subject, and, without delay or premeditation,
break forth into a song in the same metre
and number of verses, if possible; and if unfamiliar
with the Cithara, he could sing to the myrtle. The
second singer now exercised his privilege and called
upon a third, who was expected to do as he had
done; so that very often the same idea underwent
five or six transformations in the course of the evening.
When the first argument had thus made the
circle of the company, he who concluded had the
right to start a new theme, which received the same
treatment as the first; so that sometimes, when people
were in a singing humour, air followed air, until
eight or ten subjects had received all the poetical
ornaments which the invention of those present could
bestow upon them.
But to sing without wine would have been insipid.
I have said the chanting of the scolia
was a sort of contest, and, as he who contends and
obtains the victory looks naturally for a reward, so
the successful performer aspired to his, which, it
must be owned, was not inappropriate, consisting
of a brimming bowl, called odos, or the “cup of
song,” at once a mark of honour and a reward of
skill.[845] All these particulars are inferable from the
examples of the scolion, which still remain; and
Aristophanes in the “Wasps,” presents something
like an outline, though dim and obscure, both of
the argument and the mode of execution. He imagines
a company of jolly fellows,[846] such as Theoros,
Æschines, Phanos, Cleon, Acestor, and a foreigner
of the same kidney, and represents them as engaged in
performing certain scolia for their own entertainment.
But the idea we should form of this kind of song
from the very comic passage in the “Wasps” differs
materially from the theoretic view of Ilgen, since
Philocleon constantly interrupts his son, terminating
212each sentence for him in a manner wholly unexpected,
and of course calculated to excite laughter.
But though musical, the Greeks would not imitate
the grasshoppers,[847] who are said to sing till they
starve; but, having accomplished the circle above-mentioned,
proceeded to other amusements which,
though too numerous to be described at length, must
not be altogether passed over. In the heroic ages
the discovery had not been made that rest after
meals is necessary to digestion, which in later times
was a received maxim, and accordingly we find
from the practice of the Phæacians,[848] who, if an after-dinner
nap had been customary, would certainly have
taken it, that the men of those times, instead of
indulging in indolent repose out of compliment to
their stomachs, sallied forth to leap, to run, to wrestle,
and engage in other athletic sports, which by no means
appear to have impaired their health or their prowess.
As civilisation advances, however, excuses are found
for laying aside the habits of violent exercise. Science,
in too many cases, fosters indolence and pronounces
what is fashionable to be wise. But to
the race-course and the wrestling-ring, sedentary,
or at least indoor, pastimes succeed, and, instead
of overthrowing their antagonists on the palæstra-floor
or the greensward, men seek to subdue them
at Kottabos, or on the chess-board, or to ruin them
at the card-table or in the billiard-room.
The play of Kottabos,[849] invented in Sicily, soon
propagated itself, as such inventions do, throughout
the whole of Greece, and got into great vogue at
Athens, where the lively temperament of the people
inclined them to indulge immoderately in whatever
was convivial and gay. The most usual form of
the game was this,—a piece of wood like the upright
of a balance having been fixed in the floor
213or upon a stable basis, a small cross-beam was
placed on the top of it with a shallow vessel like
the basin of a pair of scales, at either end.
Under each of these vessels stood a broad-mouthed
vase, filled with water, with a gilt bronze statue,
called Manes, fixed upright in its centre. The persons
who played at the game, standing at some
little distance, cast, in turn, their wine, from a
drinking-cup into one of the pensile basins, which
descending with the weight, struck against the head
of the statue, which resounded with the blow. The
victor was he who spilled least wine during the
throw, and elicited most noise from the brazen
head. It was, in fact, in its origin a species of
divination, the object being to discover by the
greater or less success obtained, the place occupied
by the player in his mistress’s affections. By an
onomatopœa the sound created by the wine in its
projection was called latax, and the wine itself
latagè. Both the act of throwing and the cup
used were called ankula, from the word which expresses
the dexterous turn of the hand with which
the skilful player cast his wine into the scales.[850]
Our learned Archbishop Potter, who has not unskilfully
abridged the account of Athenæus, confounds
the above with the kottabos katactos, another
form of the game described both by Pollux and
Athenæus.[851] In this the apparatus was suspended
like a chandelier from the roof. It was formed of
brass, and a brazen vessel, called the skiff, was
placed beneath it. The player, standing at a little
distance, with a long wand, struck one end of the
kottabos, which descending came in contact with
the skiff, or rather the manes within, and produced
a hollow sound. Occasionally the small vessels at
the extremity of the kottabos were brought down,
as in the former game, by having wine cast into
214them. Another variety required the skiff to be
filled with water, upon which floated a ball, an instrument
like the tongue of a balance, a manes,
three myrtle boughs, and as many phials. In this
the great art consisted in striking some one of these
with the kottabos, and whoever could sink most of
them won the game. The prize, on these occasions,
was usually one of those cakes called pyramos[852] or
something similar; but instead of these it was sometimes
agreed, when women were present, that the
prize should be a kiss, as in our game of forfeits.
Another kind of kottabos, chiefly practised on those
occasions which resembled our christenings, when on
the tenth day the child received its name, was a
contention of wakefulness, when the person who
longest resisted sleep, won the prize. Properly, however,
kottabos was the amusement first described;
and so fashionable did it become, that persons erected
circular rooms expressly for the purpose, in order
that the players might take their stand at equal
distances from the apparatus which stood in the
centre.[853]
It might, without any authority, be presumed that
when people met together for enjoyment they would
derive the greater portion of it from conversation,
which would, of course, vary and slide
“From grave to gay, from lively to severe,”
according to the character or fluctuating humour of
the company. The Spartans, like all military people,
were grievously addicted to jokes, which among them
supplied the place of that elegant badinage, alternating
with profound or impassioned discourse, familiar
to the more intellectual Athenians. The latter, however,
though free from the coarseness, possessed more
than the mirthfulness of the Dorians, and in the
midst of their habits of business and application to
215philosophy, knew better than any people how, amidst
wine and good-eating, to unbend and enjoy the luxury
of careless trifling and an unwrinkled brow.
While some therefore retired to the kottabos-room,
which occupied the place of our billiard-room, others
still sat clustered round the table, extracting amusement
from each other. Among these of course would
be found all such as excelled in the art of small
talk, who could tell a good story or anecdote, scatter
around showers of witticisms, or give birth to a
pun. Some, like the Spartans, had a Welsh passion
for genealogies, and loved to run back over the history
of the “Landed Gentry” of old Hellas, to the
time of Deucalion or higher; others coined their wisdom
and experience into fables, for which they exhibited
an almost Oriental fondness; while the greater
number, like the princes in the Arabian Nights,
exercised their wits in propounding and resolving
difficult questions, enigmas, charades, anagrams, and
conundrums.
But the principal classes into which these contrivances
were divided were two: enigmas and griphoi,[854]
the former comprehending all those terminating in
mere pleasure, the latter such questions and riddles
as involved within themselves the kernel of wisdom
or knowledge,[855] supposed to have been a dull and serious
affair. Casaubon,[856] however, vindicates it stoutly
from this charge, affirming that in the griphos the
utile was mingled with the dulce in due proportion;
so that it must, according to Horace’s opinion, have
borne away the palm from most literary inventions.
In point of antiquity, too, the riddle may justly
boast; for, if to be old is to be noble, it has “more
of birth and better blood” even than the hungry
Dorians of the Peloponnesos, whom Mr. Mitchell
216prefers, on this account, before all nations of Ionic
race. Like everything good also it comes from the
East. The earliest mention of the riddle occurs in
the book of Judges,[857] where Samson, during his
marriage-feast at Timnath, perplexes his guests with
the following riddle:
“Out of the eater came forth meat, and out of the strong came
forth sweetness;”
To which they, being instructed by his wife, replied:
“What is sweeter than honey? and what is stronger than a
lion?”
The word griphos, in its original acceptation, signified
a fishing-net, and hence by translation was
employed to describe a captious or cunningly contrived
question, in which the wits of people were
entangled.[858] As the ancients delighted in this sort
of intellectual trifling they were at the pains to be
very methodical about it, dividing the riddle into
several kinds, which Clearchos of Soli[859] made the
subject of a separate work. This writer, a sort of
Greek D’Israeli, defines the griphos to mean “a
sportive problem proposed for solution on condition,
that the discovery of the sense should be
attended by a reward, and failure with punishment.”
His description of the seven classes could
scarcely be rendered intelligible, and certainly not
interesting to the modern reader. It will be more
to the purpose to introduce two or three specimens,
prefacing them by a few remarks.
It has been above observed, that philosophical
truths were often wrapped up in these sportive problems,
217which purposely obscured, so as to afford but
dim and distant glimpses of the forms within, necessarily
exercised and sharpened the wit and induced
keen and persevering habits of investigation.
The reward also and the penalty had the same tendency.
A crown, an extra junket, and the applause
of the company, cheered the successful Œdipos, while
the lackwit who beat about the bush without catching
the owl, had to make wry faces over a cup of
brine or pickle. Theodectes, the sophist, a man distinguished
for the excellence of his memory, obtained
reputation as a riddle-solver, and denominated
such questions the “springs of memory.”[860] But whatever
the interrogatories themselves may have been,
the reward, to which their solution often led, was
rather a source of forgetfulness, consisting of a goblet
of wine which, when no interpreter could be found,
passed to the propounder.[861]
The riddle was of course a mine of wealth to the
comic poets, who could not be supposed to forego
the use of so admirable a contrivance to raise expectation
and beget surprise. But it is clear, from
the examples still preserved, that they oftener missed
than hit. Antiphanes’s griphoi on “bringing and not
bringing;” on the “porridge-pot;” on a “tart,” &c.,
are poor things; but the following from the “Dream”
of Alexis is good:
A. A thing exists which nor immortal is,
Nor mortal, but to both belongs, and lives
As neither god nor man does. Every day,
’Tis born anew and dies. No eye can see it,
And yet to all ’tis known.
B. A plague upon you!
you bore me with your riddles.
A. Still, all this
Is plain and easy.
A.
Sleep—that puts all our cares and pains to flight.
[862]
218The following from Eubulos is not amiss:
A. What is it that, while young, is plump and heavy,
But, being full grown, is light, and wingless mounts
Upon the courier winds, and foils the sight?
B. The Thistle’s Beard; for this at first sticks fast
To the green seed, which, ripe and dry, falls off
Upon the cradling breeze, or, upwards puffed
By playful urchins, sails along the air.
Antiphanes, in his Sappho, introduces a very ingenious
riddle, partly for the purpose of offering a
sarcastic explanation directed against the orators:
There is a female which within her bosom
Carries her young, that, mute, in fact, yet speak,
And make their voice heard on the howling waves,
Or wildest continent. They will converse
Even with the absent, and inform the deaf.
[863]
The poet introduces the “Lesbian maid,” explaining
the riddle, and this passage of the Athenian
comic writer may be regarded as the original of
those fine lines in Ovid, which Pope has so elegantly
translated:
Heaven first taught LETTERS for some wretch’s aid,
Some banish’d lover, or some captive maid,
They live, they speak, they breathe what love inspires,
Warm from the soul, and faithful to its fires,
The virgin’s wish without her fears impart,
Excuse the blush and pour out all the heart,
Speed the soft intercourse from soul to soul,
And waft a sigh from Indus to the pole.
By this time, however, the reader will probably
be of opinion, that we have lingered long enough
about the dinner-table and its attendant pastimes.
We shall therefore hasten the departure of the
guests, who after burning the tongues of the animals
that had been sacrificed, to intimate that whatever
had been uttered was to be kept secret, offered
219libations to Zeus, Hermes, and other gods, and took
their leave, in ancient times before sunset; but afterwards,
as luxury and extravagance increased, the
morning sun often enabled them to dispense with
link-boys. Examples, indeed, of similar perversions
of the night occur in Homer and Virgil, but always
among the reckless or effeminate in the palaces of
princes, whence, in all ages, the stream of immorality
has flowed downward upon society to disturb
and pollute it. The company assembled at Agathon’s,
also, sit up all night in Plato; and Aristophanes
represents drunken men reeling home through
the agora by daylight.
220
It is far from being my purpose to repeat the
information which may be obtained from a hundred
authors on the rise and progress of scenic representation
in Greece. I shall, on the contrary, confine
myself chiefly to those parts of the subject which
others have either altogether neglected, or treated
in a concise and unsatisfactory manner. It would,
nevertheless, be beside my purpose to attempt the
clearing up of all such difficulties as occur in the
accounts transmitted to us of the Hellenic drama;
and, in fact, notwithstanding the laborious investigations
into which I have been compelled to enter,
I feel that there are many points upon which I can
throw no new light, and which appear likely for
ever to baffle the ingenuity of architects and
scholars.
Dionysos, being a deity connected with agriculture,
his worship naturally took its rise, and for a
long time prevailed chiefly, in the country. His
festivals were celebrated with merriment; and, the
power of mimicry being natural to man, the rustics,
when congregated to set forth the praise of their
tutelar god, easily glided into the enactment of a
farcical show. And dramatic exhibitions at the
outset were little superior to the feats of Punch,
though, so great was their suitableness to the national
character, that, in the course of time, every
town of note had its own theatre, as it had of old
its own dithyrambic bard;[864] and dramatic writers were
221multiplied incomparably beyond what they have been
in any other country.
Both tragedy and comedy,[865] properly so called,
took their rise in Attica, and there only, in the
ancient world, flourished and grew up to perfection.
The theatre, in fact, formed at length a part of the
constitution, and, probably, the worst part, its tendency
being to foster personal enmities, to stir the
sources of malice, and, while pretending to purge
off the dross of the passions by the channels of
sorrow and mirth, to induce habits of idleness and
political apathy, by affording in the brilliant recesses
of a mock world a facile refuge from the toils
and duties of the real one. Nevertheless, it may
be curious to open up a view into that universe of
shadows wherein the vast creations of Æschylus, of
Sophocles, of Euripides, of Aristophanes, and Menander
displayed themselves before the eyes of the
Athenians, with a costly grandeur and magnificence
never equalled save in imperial Rome.
It has been already remarked, that to the Dionysiac
theatre of Athens the architectural speculations
of Vitruvius on dramatic edifices apply, this building
having constituted the model on which similar
structures were afterwards erected.[866] By carefully
studying its details, therefore, we shall be enabled
to form a tolerably just conception of all the theatres
once found in Greece, though each, perhaps, may
have been slightly modified in plan, general arrangement,
222and decorations, by the peculiarities of the
site, and the science or taste of its architect.
The great theatre of Bacchos, partly scooped out
of the rock on the face of the hill at the south-eastern
angle of the Acropolis, stretched forth, on
solid piers of masonry, a considerable distance into
the plain, and was capable of containing upwards
of thirty thousand people. The diameter, accordingly,
if it did not exceed, could have fallen little
short of five hundred feet.[867] For we are not to suppose
that, while Sparta,[868] and Argos, and Megalopolis,
cities comparatively insignificant, possessed theatres
of such dimensions, Athens, incomparably the largest
and most beautiful of Hellenic capitals, would have
been content with one of inferior magnitude.[869]
To determine accurately the various parts of the
theatre, and thus affix a distinct meaning to every
term connected with it, has exercised the ingenuity
of critics and architects for the last three hundred
years, still leaving many difficulties to be overcome.
I can scarcely hope in every case to succeed where
they have failed. But the following explanation
may, perhaps, convey of its interior an idea sufficiently
exact for all practical purposes.
Supposing ourselves to be standing at the foot
of the Katatomè,[870] a smooth wall of rock, rising
perpendicularly from the back of the theatre to the
superimpending fortifications of the Acropolis, we
223behold on either hand, surmounted by porticoes,
lofty piers of masonry projecting like horns down
the rocky slope into the plain and united at their
extremities by a wall of equal height, running in
a straight line from one point of the horseshoe to
the other. The space thus enclosed is divided into
three principal parts,—the amphitheatre for the
spectators, the orchestra,[871] filling all the space occupied
by the modern pit, for the chorus, and the
stage, properly so called, for the actors. Each of
these parts was again subdivided. Looking down
still from the Katatomè, we behold the benches
of white marble, sweeping round the whole semicircle
of the theatre, descend like steps to the
level of the orchestra, and intersected at intervals
by narrow straight passages converging towards
a point below.[872] A number of the upper seats,
cut off, by an open space extending round the
whole semicircle, from the rest, was set apart
for the women. Other divisions were appropriated
to other classes of the population, as the tier of
seats immediately overlooking the orchestra to the
senators, or dicasts, another portion to the youth,
another to foreigners and the guests of the state,
while the remainder was occupied by the dense mass
of citizens of all ages,[873] with crowns of flowers on
their heads.
Above the level of the most elevated range of
seats, and stretching round the whole sweep of the
edifice,[874] arose a spacious portico,[875] designed to afford
224shelter to the spectators during the continuance of
a sudden shower. Another range of porticoes extended
along the small lawn or grove within the
limits of the theatre, at the back of the stage, so
that there was little necessity for the Athenian
people to take refuge, as some have imagined, from
the weather in the public buildings, sacred or civil,
in the vicinity.
It would appear from an expression in Pollux,[876]
that the lower seats of the theatre, appropriated to
persons of distinction, were covered with wood,[877]
notwithstanding which, it was usual, in the later
ages of the commonwealth, for rich persons to have
cushions brought for them to the theatre by their
domestics,[878] together with purple carpets for their
feet. Theophrastus, accordingly, whom few striking
traits of manners escaped, represents his flatterer
snatching this theatrical cushion from the slave, and
adjusting and obsequiously smoothing it for his patron.[879]
To render their devotion to Dionysos still less
irksome, it was customary to hand round cakes and
wine during the representation, though, like Homer’s
225heroes, they were careful to fortify themselves
with a good meal before they ventured abroad. We
are informed, moreover, that when the actors were
bad there was a greater consumption of confectionary,
the good people being determined to make
up in one kind of enjoyment what they lost in
another. Full cups, moreover, were habitually
drained on the entrance and exit of the chorus.[880]
The orchestra, being considerably below the level
of the stage, had in the middle of it a small square
platform, called the Thymele,[881] sometimes regarded
as a bema on which the leader of the chorus mounted
when engaged in dialogue with the actors; sometimes
as an altar on which sacrifice was offered up to
Dionysos. That part of the orchestra which lay between
the Thymele and the stage was denominated
the Dromos, while the name of Parodoi was bestowed
on those two spacious side-passages,[882] the
one from the east, the other from the west, at the
extremities of the tiers of seats which afforded the
chorus ample room for marching in and out in rank
and file, in the quadrangular form it usually affected.
At the extremity of the orchestra a pier of masonry
called the Hyposcenion, adorned with columns
and statues, rose to the level of the stage, where
a most intricate system of machinery and decoration
represented all that was tangible to sense in
the creations of the poet. The stage was divided
into two parts; first, the Ocribas or Logeion,[883]
floored with boards, and hollow beneath, for the
purpose of reverberating the voice; second, the
Proscenion,[884] a broader parallelogram of solid stonework,
226necessary to support the vast apparatus of
machinery and decoration required by the character
of the Grecian drama. The descent from the stage[885]
into the orchestra was by two flights of steps situated
at either extremity of the Logeion, at the
point where the Parodoi touched upon the Dromos.
Beyond the Proscenion arose the Scene,[886] properly
so called, the aspect of which was constantly varied,
to suit the requirements of each successive piece.
In most cases, however, it represented the front of
three different edifices, of which the central one,
communicating with the stage by a broad and lofty
portal, was generally a palace. Sometimes, as in
the Philoctetes, this portal was converted into the
mouth of a cavern,[887] opening upon the view, amid
the rocks and solitudes of Lemnos, while in other
plays it formed the entrance to the mansion of some
private person of distinction, but was always appropriated
to the principal actor. The building on
the right assumed in comedy the appearance of an
inn, through the door of which the second actor
issued upon the stage, while the portal on the left
led into a ruined temple, or uninhabited house. In
tragedy the right hand entrance was appropriated
to strangers, while on the left was that of the female
apartments, or of a prison.[888]
Upon the stage, in front of the doors, stood an
altar of Apollo Aguieus, and a table covered with
cakes and confectionary,[889] which appears sometimes
to have been regarded as the representative of that
ancient table, on which, in the simplicity of Prothespian
227times, the solitary actor mounted when
engaged in dialogue with the chorus.
When the stage was fitted up for the performance
of comedy, there stood near the house a painted scene
representing a large cattle-shed, with capacious double
gates, for the admission of waggons and sumpter oxen,
with herds and droves of asses, when returning from
the field. In the Akestriæ of Antiphanes,[890] this rustic
building was converted into a workshop. Beyond
each of the side-doors on the right and left were two
machines,[891] one on either hand, upon which the extremity
of the periactoi abutted. The scene on the
right represented rural landscapes, that on the left
prospects in the environs of the city, particularly
views of the harbour. On these periactoi,[892] were represented
the marine deities riding on the waves,
and generally all such objects as could not be introduced
by machinery. By turning the periactoi
on the right, the situation was changed, but when
both were turned a wholly new landscape was placed
before the eye. Of the parodoi, or side-passages,
that on the right led from the fields, from the harbour,
or from the city, as the necessities of the play
required, while those arriving on foot from any
other part entered by the opposite passage, and,
traversing a portion of the orchestra, ascended the
stage by the flights of steps before mentioned.
The machinery[893] by which the dumb economy of
the play was developed consisted of numerous parts,
highly complicated and curious. To avoid labour,
and, perhaps, some tediousness, these might be passed
over with such a remark as the above, but this would
be to escape from difficulties not to diminish them.
I shall descend to particulars.
First, and most remarkable, was that machine called
an Eccyclema,[894] much used by the ancients when
228scenes within-doors were to be brought to view.
It consisted of a wooden structure, moved on wheels,
and represented the interior of an apartment. In
order to pass forth through the doors, it was formed
less deep than broad, and rolled forth sideways, turning
round afterwards, and concealing the front of the
building from which it had issued. The channels
in the floor, which were traversed by the wheels,
doubtless concealed beneath the lofty basis, received
the name of Eiscyclema.[895] Sometimes, as in the Agamemnon,
it presented to view “the royal bathing
apartment with the silver laver, the corpse enveloped
in the fatal garment, and Clytemnestra, besprinkled
with blood, and holding in her hand the
reeking weapon, still standing with haughty mien
over her murdered victim.”[896] On other occasions a
throne, a corpse, the interior of a tent, the summit
of a building, were exhibited; and in the Clouds of
Aristophanes the interior of Socrates’ house was laid
open to the spectators, containing a number of masks,
gaunt and pale, the natural fruit of philosophy.[897] It
should be remarked that the Eccyclema issued through
any of the doors, as the piece required the cells of
a prison, the halls of a palace, or the chambers of an
inn, to be placed before the eyes of the audience.
That peculiar machine in which the gods made
their appearance,[898] or such heroes as enjoyed the privilege
of travelling through the air,—Bellerophon,
for example, and Perseus,—stood near the left side-entrance,
and, in height, exceeded the stone skreen
at the back of the stage. This, in tragedy, was
denominated Mechanè, and Kradè in comedy,[899]—in
229this case resembling a fig-tree, which the Athenians
called Kradè. The watch-tower, the battlements, and
the turret, were constructed for the use of those
watchmen, such as the old man in the Agamemnon,
who looked out for signals, or indications of the coming
foe. The Phructorion[900] was a pharos, or beacon-tower.
Another portion of the stage was the Distegia,
a building two stories high in palaces, from
the top of which, in the Phœnissœ of Euripides,[901] Antigone
beholds the army. It was roofed with tiles,
(and thence called Keramos,) which they sometimes
cast down upon the enemy. In comedy, libertines
and old women, or ladies of equivocal character, were
represented prying into the street for prey from such
buildings.
The Keraunoskopeion[902] was a lofty triangular column,
which appears to have been hollow, and furnished
with narrow fissures, extending in right lines
from top to bottom. Within seem to have been a
number of lamps, on stationary bases, from which, as
the periactos whirled round, sheets of mimic lightning
flashed upon the stage from behind the scenes.
The construction of the Bronteion,[903] or thunder magazine,
I imagine to have been nearly as follows:—a
number of brazen plates, arranged one below another,
like stairs, descended through a steep, vaulted
passage behind the scene, into the bottom of a tower,
terminating in a vast brazen caldron. From the
edge of this, a series of metallic apertures,[904] probably
spiral, pierced the tower wall, and opened without
in funnels, like the mouths of trumpets.
When some deity was required to descend to earth
in the midst of lightning and sudden thunder, the
Keraunoskopeion was instantaneously put in motion,
and showers of pebbles from the sea-shore were hurled
230down the mouth of the Bronteion, and, rolling over
the brazen receptacles, produced a terrific crash,
which, with innumerable reverberations, was poured
forth by the Echeia upon the theatre.[905]
In a lofty gallery called the Theologeion, extending
over the marble skreen at the back of the stage,
appeared the gods, when the drama required their
presence; and hence, I imagine, the Hebrew colony
which makes its appearance nightly near the roof
of our own theatres have obtained the name of gods.
Here Zeus, and the other deities of Olympos, were
assembled in that very extraordinary drama of Æschylus,
the Psychostasia, or weighing in the balance the
souls of Achilles and Hector.
They employed in the theatre the machine called
a Crane,[906] the point of which being lowered, snatched
up whatever it was designed to bear aloft into the
air. By means of this contrivance, Eos, goddess of
the dawn, descended and bore away the body of
Memnon, slain by Achilles before Troy. At other
times strong cords, so disposed as to resemble swings,
were let down from the roof, to support the gods
or heroes who seemed to be borne through the air.
Though by turning the Periactoi three changes of
scene could be produced, many more were sometimes
required, and, when this was the case, new landscapes
were dropped, like hangings, or slided in frames in
front of those painted columns. These usually represented
views of the sea, or mountain scenery, or the
course of some river winding along through solitary
vales, or other prospects of similar character, according
to the spirit of the drama.
The position of the Hemicycle is more difficult
to comprehend. It appears to have been a retreating
semicircular scene, placed facing the orchestra,
and masking the marble buildings at the back of
the stage, when a view was to be opened up into
some distant part of the city, or shipwrecked mariners
231were to be exhibited buffeting with the waves.
Not very dissimilar was the Stropheion,[907] which
brought to view heroes translated to Olympos, or
on the ocean, or in battle slain, where change of
position with respect to the spectator was produced
by the rotatory motion of the machine.
The position of the Charonian staircase,[908] by which
spectres and apparitions ascended from the nether
world, is exceedingly difficult to be determined; but
that it was somewhere on the stage appears to me
certain, notwithstanding the seeming testimony of
Pollux to the contrary. The hypothesis which
makes the ghosts issue from a door immediately
beneath the seats of the spectators, and rush along
the whole depth of the orchestra, among the chorus
and musicians, is, at any rate, absurd. It must
have been somewhere towards the back of the
stage, near the altar of Loxios, the table of shew-bread
and those sacred and antique images which in
certain dramas were there exhibited. Here, likewise,
was the trap-door, through which river-gods
issued from the earth, while the other trap-door,
appropriated to the Furies, seems to have been situated
in the boards of the Logeion, near one of the
flights of steps leading down into the orchestra.
The above synopsis of the machinery and decorations
employed by the Greeks in their theatrical
shows may, possibly, from its imperfection, suggest
the idea of a rude and clumsy apparatus. But, as
the arts of poetry, sculpture, painting, and architecture
reached in Greece the highest perfection, and,
as this perfection was coëtaneous with the flourishing
state of the drama, it is impossible to escape
the conviction, that the art of scene-painting
and the manufacturing of stage machinery, likewise,
underwent all the improvements of which by their
nature they are susceptible. For, in the first place,
it is not easy to suppose, that a people, so fastidious
232as were the Athenians, would have tolerated in the
theatre displays of ignorance and want of skill which
everywhere else they are known to have overwhelmed
with contempt and derision; more especially
as, in the first place, the landscapes and objects
represented were usually those with which they
were most familiar, though the fancy of the poet
sometimes ventured to transport them to the most
elevated and inaccessible recesses of Mount Caucasus,
to the summit of the celestial Olympos, to the
palaces and harems of Persia, to the wilds of the
Tauric Chersonese,[909] or even to the dim and dreary
regions of the dead. The names, nevertheless, of
few scene-painters, besides Agatharchos,[910] have come
down to us, though it is known, that, in their own
day, they sometimes divided with the poet the admiration
of the audience, and, on other occasions,
enabled poets of inferior merit to bear away the
prize from their betters.
The character, however, of stage-scenery differed
very widely in tragedy, comedy, and satyric pieces,[911]
usually consisting, in the first, of façades of palaces,
with colonnades, architraves, cornices, niches, statues,
&c.; in comedy, of the fronts or courts of ordinary
houses, with windows, balconies, porticoes, &c.;
while, in the satyric drama, the fancy of the painter
and decorator was allowed to develope before the
audience scenes of rural beauty remote from cities,
as the hollows of mountains shaded with forests,
winding valleys, plains, rivers, caverns, and sacred
groves.
Of the Grecian actors,[912] whose business and profession
next require to be noticed, too little by far
is known, considering the curious interest of the
subject. Their art, however, would appear to have
sprung from that of the rhapsodists, who chanted
233in temples, during religious festivals, and afterwards
in the theatres, the heroic lays of Greece. To a
certain extent, indeed, the rhapsodist was himself
an actor. His art required him to enter deeply
into the spirit of the poetry he recited, to suit to
the passion brought into play the modulations and
inflexions of his voice, his tone, his looks, his gesture,
so as vividly to paint to the imagination the
picture designed by the poet, and sway the whole
theatre by the powerful wand of sympathy through
all the gradations of sorrow, indignation, and joy.[913]
By some writers, accordingly, the rhapsodist is apparently
confounded with the actor, that is, he is
considered an actor of epics,[914] though in reality his
imitations of character were partial and imperfect.
Actors formed at Athens part of a guild, or company,
called the Dionysiac artificers,[915] among whom
were also comprehended rhapsodists, citharœdi, citharistæ,
musicians, jugglers, and other individuals[916]
connected with the theatre. These persons, though
for the most part held in little estimation, were yet
somewhat more respectable than at Rome, where to
appear on the stage was infamous.[917] Like the rhapsodists,
they generally led a wandering life, sometimes
appearing at Athens,[918] sometimes at Corinth,
234or Sicyon, or Epidauros, or Thebes, after the fashion
approved among the strollers of our own day. In
the course of these wanderings they now and then
fell in with rare adventures, as in the case of that
company of comedians which, on returning from
Messenia towards the Isthmus, was met by king
Cleomenes and the Spartan army near Megalopolis.[919]
To exhibit the superiority of his power and his contempt
for the enemy, Cleomenes threw up, probably
with turf and boards, a temporary theatre, where
he and his army sat all day enjoying the jokes and
wild merriment of the stage, after which, he bestowed,
as a prize, upon the principal performers, the
sum of forty minæ, or about one hundred and sixty
pounds sterling.
About this period, however, it was usual for the
armies of Greece, republican as well as royal, to be
followed by companies of strollers, jugglers, dancing
girls, and musicians.[920] Even in the army of Alexander,
when proceeding on the Persian expedition,
the “flatterers of Dionysos”[921] were not forgotten;
in fact, the son of Philip set a high value upon
the performances of these gentlemen, and with truly
royal munificence allowed them to enjoy their full
share of the plunder of the East. Thus, when Nicocreon,
king of Salamis, and Pasicrates, king of Soli,[922]
played the part of Choregi in Cyprus, in getting up
certain tragedies there performed for the amusement
of Alexander, and the actors, Thessalos, and Athenodoros
235the Athenian, contended for the prize; he
was piqued at the victory of the Athenian, and,
though he commended the judges for bestowing the
prize on him whom they regarded as the best performer,
said, he would have given a part of his
kingdom rather than have beheld Thessalos overcome
by a rival.
Afterwards, when Athenodoros was fined by his
countrymen for absenting himself from Athens during
the Dionysiac festival, evidently contrary to the statutes
in that case made and provided, Alexander paid
the fine for his humble friend, though he refused
to make application to the people for its remission.
An anecdote related of Lycon of Scarphe, also
shows the high value set by the Macedonian prince
upon the amusements of the stage, and the influence
exercised over his mind by the Dionysiac artificers,
though, according to Antiphanes, he wanted
the taste to discriminate between a good play and
a bad one. The Scarpheote being one day in want
of money, as actors sometimes are, introduced into
the piece he was performing a line of his own
making, beseeching the conqueror to bestow on him
ten talents; Alexander, amused by his extravagance,
or captivated perhaps, by the flattery which accompanied
it, at once granted his request, and thus
upwards of two thousand four hundred pounds of
the public money were expended for the momentary
gratification of a prince.[923]
The philosophers, almost of necessity, thought
and spoke of these wandering performers with extreme
contempt. Plato observes, that they went
about from city to city collecting together thoughtless
crowds, and, by their beautiful, sonorous, and
persuasive voices, converting republics into tyrannies
and aristocracies. Aristotle endeavoured to
account for their evil character and agency.[924] They
236were worthless, he says, because of all men they
profited least by the lessons of reason and philosophy,
their whole lives being consumed by the study
of their professional arts, or passed in intemperance
and difficulties.
Nevertheless, even among them there were different
grades, some aiming at the higher walks of
tragedy and comedy; while others were content
to declaim rude, low songs, seated on waggons like
mountebanks during the Lenæan festival.[925] Nor
must this fashion be at all regarded as Prothespian,
since it prevailed down to a very late period.
And as in every thing the Greeks aimed at excellence
and distinction, so even here we find that
there was a contest between the poets who wrote
the comic songs sung by these humble performers
from their waggons.[926]
The various classes of actors known to the ancients
were numerous. Among the lower grades were the
Magodos, and the Lysiodos,[927] who though confounded
by some, appear clearly to have been distinct; the
former personating both male and female characters;
the latter female characters only, though disguised
in male costume. But the songs, and every other
characteristic of their performances, were the same.
The spirit of the coarse satirical farces they acted
forbids my explaining their nature fully.
There were even several authors who attained a
“bad eminence” in this department of literature,
which especially affected the Ionic dialect, as Alexander,
the Ætolian,[928] Pyretos of Miletos, a city noted
for its dissolute characters, and Alexos, who obtained
237on this account an opprobrious sobriquet. The most
remarkable, however, of this vicious brood would appear
to have been Sotades[929] the Maronite, and his
son Apollonios who wrote a work on his father’s
poems. Sotades was probably the original imitated
by Pietro Aretino, who obtained in modern times a
like reputation, though timely penitence may have
snatched him from a similar end. The ancient libeller,
enacting the part of Thersites, fastened with
peculiar delight on the vices of princes, not from
aversion to their manners, but because such scandal
paved the way to notoriety. Thus at Alexandria,
he covered Lysimachos with obloquy, which, when
at the court of Lysimachos, he heaped upon Ptolemy
Philadelphos. His punishment, however, exceeded
the measure of his offences. Being overtaken in
the island of Caunos by Patrocles, one of Ptolemy’s
generals, the obsequious mercenary caused him to
be enclosed in a leaden box and cast into the sea.[930]
The Magodos, then, was a wandering farce actor,
not unlike the tumbling mountebanks one sometimes
sees in France and southern Europe. He
travelled about with an apparatus of drums, cymbals,
and female disguises, sometimes impersonating
women, sometimes adulterers or the mean servants
of vice; and the style of his dancing and performances
corresponded with the low walk he selected,
being wholly destitute of beauty or decorum. It
seems necessary, therefore, to adopt the opinion of
Aristoxenos, who considered the art of the Hilarodos
as a serious imitation of tragedy; that of the Magodos
as a comic parody, brought down to the level
of the grossly vulgar. The latter art would appear
to have derived its name from the charms, spells,
or magical songs chanted by the mountebanks who
likewise pretended to develope the secrets of pharmaceutics.
238Superior in every way to the Magodos and Lysiodos
was the Hilarodos,[931] who, though a wandering
singer like the Italians and Savoyards of modern
Europe, affected no little state, and was evidently
treated with some respect. His costume, in conformity
with the popular taste, displayed considerable
magnificence, consisting of a golden crown, white
stole and costly sandals, though in earlier ages he
appeared in shoes. He was usually accompanied by
a youth or maiden who touched the lyre as he sung.
The style of his performances was decorous and manly.
When a crown was given him in token of approbation
by the audience, it was bestowed on the
Hilarodos himself, not on the musician.
A class of actors existed, also from very remote
times, among the Spartans. They were called Deikelistæ,[932]
and their style of performing showed the
little value set upon the drama at Sparta. The
poetry of the piece, if poetry it could be called, was
extempore and of the rudest description, and the
characters were altogether conformable. Sometimes
the interest of the play turned upon a man robbing
an orchard, or on the broken Greek of an outlandish
physician, whom people respected for his gibberish.
This weakness, prevalent of course at Athens also,
is wittily satirised by Alexis in his Female Opium
Eater.
“Now if a native
Doctor prescribe, ‘Give him a porringer
Of ptisan in the morning,’ we despise him.
But in some brogue disguised ’tis admirable.
Thus he who speaks of Beet is slighted, while
We prick our ears if he but mention Bate,
As if
Bate knew some virtue not in
Beet.”
[933]
239The Deikelistæ, however, were not confined to
Laconia, but, under various names were known
in most other parts of Greece. Thus, at Sicyon,
they obtained the appellation of Phallophori, elsewhere
they were called Autocabdali, or Improvisator;
while in Italy, (that is, among the Greek colonists,[934])
they were known by the name of Phlyakes.[935]
By the common people they were called
the wise men (σοφίσται), upon the same principle that
actors in France are known by the name of artistes.
The Thebans, renowned for the havoc they made in
the language of Greece, denominated them the Voluntaries,
alluding proleptically perhaps to the “voluntary
principle.” Semos, the Delian, draws an
amusing picture of these Improvisatori. Those performers,
he says, who are called Autocabdali made
their appearance on the stage, crowned with ivy,
and poured forth their verse extempore. The name
of Iambi was afterwards bestowed, both on them
and their poems. Another class who were called
Ithyphalli,[936] wore those masks, which on the stage
were appropriated to drunkards, with crowns of
ivy and flowered gloves upon their hands. Their
chitons were striped with white, and over these,
bound by a girdle at the loins, they wore a Tarentine
pelisse descending to the ankle. They entered
upon the stage by the great door appropriated
to royal personages, and, advancing in silence
across the stage, turned towards the audience
and exclaimed,—
“Make way there, a wide space
Yield to the god;
For Dionysos has a mind to walk
Bolt upright through your midst.”
240The Phallophori made their appearance unmasked,
shading their face with a drooping garland of wild
thyme, intermingled with acanthus-leaves, and surmounted
by an ample crown of ivy, with violets
appearing between its glossy dark foliage. Their
costume was the caunacè. Of these actors, some
entered through the side-passages, others through
the central door, advancing with measured tread,
and saying,—
“Bacchos, to thee our muse belongs,
Of simple chant, and varied lays;
Nor fit for virgin ears our songs,
Nor handed down from ancient days:
Fresh flows the strain we pour to thee,
Patron of joy and minstrelsy!”
After which, skipping forward, they made a halt
and showered their sarcasms indiscriminately on
whomsoever they pleased, while the leader of the
troop moved slowly about, his face bedaubed with
soot.[937]
The superior classes of performers, whether actors
or musicians, seem to have been held in much estimation,
and to have been still more extravagantly
paid than in our own day. Thus Amœbæos, the
Citharœdos, who lived near the Odeion at Athens,
received, but at what period of the republic is not
known, an Attic talent a day, as often as he played
in public.[938] Music, however, was always in high
estimation in Greece, where the greatest men, though
they did not seek to rival regular professors in skill,
yet learned to amuse their leisure with it. Thus
the Homeric Achilles plays on the lyre, the sounds
of which could not only cure diseases of the mind
but of the body. A similar belief existed among
the Israelites, as we learn from the example of
Saul.
Though talent must have been always respected
in an actor, it appears to me that anciently they
241made comparatively little figure, while there were
great poets to excite admiration. But, afterwards,
when dramatic literature had sunk very low, the
actor usurped the consideration due to the poet, as
has long been the case in this country. They then
contended for the prize in the tragic contests,[939] and
began to entertain a high opinion of their own
merits. In fact, the ignorant being better calculated
to feel than to judge, the actors often obtained
the first prizes in the games, and were held
in higher estimation than the poets themselves.[940]
Thus persuaded of their own importance, they gradually
exercised over the poor devils who composed
plays for them, much the same tyranny as that in
our own age complained of by the poetical servants
of the theatre. That is, they despotically interfered
with the framing of the plot, with the succession
of the scenes, and procured episodes to be introduced,
in order that they might show off their
peculiar abilities. This is evident from a passage
in Aristotle’s Politics,[941] where he observes that the
celebrated actor Theodoros would allow no inferior
performer to appear before him on the stage, knowing
the force of first impressions; from which it is
evident that the author was compelled to yield to
his caprice.
Antiquity has preserved the names of many celebrated
actors, of whom several played a conspicuous
though sometimes a dishonourable part in the great
theatre of the world. Thus Aristodemos, who performed
the first character alternately with Theodoros,
became afterwards a traitor and betrayed the state
to Philip. Such too was the case with Philocrates
and Æschines, both actors,[942] and both rogues. Satyros,
a comedian of the same period, appears to
have been a man of high character and honour, who
in consequence obtained the friendship of Demosthenes.Demosthenes.
242But the Garrick of that age seems to have
been Theocrines,[943] who by many, however, is supposed
to have afterwards degenerated into a sycophant.
Callipedes is chiefly known to us from the anecdote
which describes the check his vanity received
from Agesilaos. Having acquired great reputation
as a tragic actor, he appears to have considered himself
as equal at least to any king, and therefore,
meeting one day with Agesilaos, he ostentatiously
put himself forward, mingled with the courtiers and
took much pains to attract his notice. Finding all
these efforts useless, his pride was wounded, and
going up directly to the Spartan, he said,
“Dost thou not know me, king?”
“Why,” replied Agesilaos, “art thou not Callipedes,
the stage-buffoon?”[944]
The account transmitted to us of Æsopos is somewhat
puzzling; he is described as one of the actors[945]
who performed in the tragedies of Æschylus, but is
said to have been at the same time a fellow of infinite
merriment who turned everything into a jest,
a sort I suppose of comic Macbeth. Œagros obtained
celebrity in the part of Niobe,[946] in the tragedy
of Æschylus or Sophocles; and Aristophanes
enumerates among the pleasures of Dicasts the power,
should such an actor appear before them in a court
of justice, of requiring him by way of pleading his
own cause, to give them a few choice speeches of
his favourite tragic queen.
Among the most celebrated actors of antiquity was
Polos, a native of Ægina, who studied the art of
stage-declamation under Archias, known in his own
age by the infamous surname of Phugadotheras, or
the “Exile Hunter.”Hunter.”[947] This miscreant it was, who,
243under the orders of Antipater, pursued Demosthenes
to the temple of Poseidon in Calauria, where, to escape
the cruelty of the Macedonians, the orator put
a period to his own life.
Polos appears to have risen speedily to that eminence
which he maintained to the last. A striking
anecdote is related of the means by which he worked
upon his own feelings, in order the more vehemently
to stir those of his audience. On one occasion,[948]
having to perform the part of Electra, he took along
with him to the theatre an urn containing the ashes
of a beloved son, whom he had recently lost, and thus,
instead of shedding, under the mask of the heroic
princess, feigned tears over the supposed remains of
Orestes, he sprinkled the urn which he bore upon
the stage with the dews of genuine and deep sorrow.
He eclipsed in reputation all the actors of
his time, and was in tragedy what Theocrines, in
the preceding age, had been in comedy. His salary,
accordingly, was very great, amounting at one
time to half a talent per day, out of which, to be
sure, he was required to pay the third actor.
He must have led, moreover, a life of much temperance,
otherwise he would scarcely have been able
to accomplish what is related of him by Philochoros,
who says, that, at seventy years of age, a little before
his death, he performed the principal parts of eight
tragedies in four days. His devotion to his art did
not, however, carry him so far as that of the comic
poets, Philemon and Alexis, who breathed their last
upon the stage at the moment that the crown of
victory was placed upon their heads, and so were
literally dismissed for the last time from the scene
amidst the shouts and acclamations of the admiring
multitude.[949] But the passion of the Greeks for the
arts of imitation did not confine itself to the enacting
of human character and human feelings. Every
species of mimicry found its patrons among them.
244There were, for example, persons who, by whistling,
could imitate the notes of the nightingale; and
Agesilaos, being once invited to witness the performances
of one of these artists, replied somewhat
contemptuously, “I have heard the nightingale herself.”[950]
Others, as Parmenion, could counterfeit to
perfection the grunt of a pig,[951] though it is probable,
that actors of smaller dimensions were called upon
to perform in the comedy of Aristophanes, where
the Megarean[952] brings on the stage his daughters in
a sack, and disposes of them as porkers, having first
carefully instructed them in the proper style of
squeaking. Other actors obtained celebrity[953] through
their power of imitating by their voice the grating
or rumbling of wheels, the creaking of axletrees,
the whistling of winds, the blasts of trumpets, the
modulations of flutes, or pipes, or the sounds of
other instruments. It was customary, too, among
this class of performers, to mimic, doubtless, in pastoral
scenes, the bleating of sheep, and the bark
of the shepherd’s dog, the neighing of horses, and
the deep bellowing of bulls. They could imitate,
moreover, but by what means is uncertain, the pattering
of hail-storms, the dash and breaking of
water in rivers or seas, with other natural phenomena.
It was customary, likewise, as in modern
times, to introduce boats and galleys rowed along
the mimic waters of the stage, an example of which
occurs on an Etruscan Chalcidone, where we behold
a little vessel of extraordinary form, with a mariner
at bow and stern, paddled along a bank adorned
with flowers, while on a platform, occupying the
245boat’s waist, two naked dancers are exhibiting their
saltatorial powers.[954]
Very singular figures were also introduced upon
the stage, as wasps, frogs, and birds, of sufficiently
large dimensions to be enacted by men; and still
stranger personages occasionally made their appearance,
as where, in a kind of practical parody of the
story of Andromeda,[955] a whale emerges on the sea
beach to snap off an old woman. In another drama
the transformation of Argos was represented, after
which this luckless male duenna strutted like a peacock
before the audience. Io, moreover, was changed
into a cow, and Euippe, in Euripides, into a mare.
What there was peculiar in the appearance of Amymone
it is not easy to conjecture; but she was, possibly,
represented in the act of withdrawing the trident of
Poseidon from the rock, from which gushed forth
three fountains. The rivers, and mountains, and cities
introduced[956] were, doubtless, personifications, such as
we still find in many works of art. The giants
were simply, in all probability, huge figures of men,
made to stalk about the stage, like elephants, with
an actor in each leg; and the Indians, Tritons, Gorgons,
Centaurs, with other personages of terrible or
fantastic aspect, owed their existence, perhaps, to
masks, if we may so speak, representing the whole
figures.
In what form the Seasons, the Pleiades,[957] or the
nymphs of Mithakos, made their appearance on the
stage, we are, I believe, nowhere told, though we
possess some information respecting the costume and
figure of those other strange persons of the drama,
the Clouds,[958] which came floating in through the Parodoi,
enveloped, some in masses of white fleecy gauze,
like vapour, others in azure, or many-tinted robes,
246or in drapery like piled-up flocks of wool, to represent
the various aspects of the skies; while a hazy
atmosphere was probably diffused around them, as
around the other gods, by the smoke of styrax or
frankincense, burnt in profusion on the altars of the
theatre. Here and there, through these piles of
drapery, a mask with ruddy pendant nose, like the
tail of a lobster, peered forth, and a human voice
was heard chanting in richest cadence and modulation
the lively anapæsts of the chorus.
In the tragedy of Alcestis, the grim, spectral figure
of Death was beheld gliding to and fro through the
darkness, in front of the palace of Admetos, while
personifications still, if possible, more strange and
wild, made their appearance in other dramas,—as Justice,
Madness, Frenzy, Strength, Violence, Deceit,
Drunkenness, Laziness, Envy.[959]
Plato, who entertained peculiar notions[960] respecting
the dignity of human nature, banished the theatre
from his Republic, because he thought it unbecoming
a brave man, who had political rights to watch over
and defend, to demean himself by low stage impersonations;
and, from his account of what he would
not have his citizens do, we learn what by others was
done. Sometimes, he observes, the actor was required
to imitate a woman, (though this task often
devolved upon eunuchs,) whether young or old, reviling
her husband, railing at and expressing contempt
for the gods, either puffed up by the supposed stableness
of her felicity, or stung to desperation by the
severity of her misfortunes and sorrows. Other female
characters were to be represented, toiling, or in love,
or in the pangs of labour; which shows that there
was scarcely an act or passage in human life not
occasionally imitated on the stage.
Slaves of course performed an important part in
the mimic world of the theatre; and with these,
Plato, by some unaccountable association of ideas,
247classes smiths, and madmen, and vagabonds, and low
artificers of every kind, and the rowers of galleys, and
rogues, and cowards, below which his imagination
could discover nothing in human nature.
But it was these very characters, with their low
wit, buffoonery, and appropriate actions, that constituted
the most effective materials of the comic poet,
whose creed was, that
Les fous sont ici-bas pour nos menus plaisirs.
They accordingly hesitated at no degree of grotesque
buffoonery and extravagance, introducing not
only low sausage-sellers with their trays of black-puddings
and chitterlings suspended on their paunches,[961]
and drunkards lisping, hiccuping, and reeling about
the stage,[962] but even libertines and profligates carrying
on their intrigues in the view of the spectators.
An example of this kind of scene occurs on an
Etruscan bronze seal dug up near Cortona, which
represents an adulterer in conference with his mistress,
together with the Leno who brought them
together.[963]
248
Into the various questions which have been raised
respecting the origin and constitution of the chorus
it is not my intention to enter. It undoubtedly appears,
however, to have arisen amid the festivities
of the vintage, when, after the grapes were brought
home and pressed and the principal labours of the
season concluded,[964] the rustics delivered themselves
up to wild joy and merriment, chanting hymns and
performing dances in honour of Dionysos, the protecting
god of the vine. At first the number of
the persons engaged in these dances could not have
been fixed, since it is probable that all the vintagers,
both male and female, joined in the sports,
as they had previously joined in the labour. And
this free and unformal character the Dithyrambic or
Dionysiac chorus must have preserved, as long as it
remained a mere village pastime. But when afterwards,
advancing from one step to another, it assumed
something of an artificial form and several chorusses
arose which contended with each other for a prize,
the performers must have undergone some kind of
training,[965] both in singing and dancing, and then
the number of the individuals constituting the chorus
was possibly fixed. There appears to be some
reason for thinking, that these exhibitions were more
ancient than the congregation of the Athenians in
one city, and that originally every tribe had its own
249chorus,[966] since we find that afterwards, when all the
inhabitants of Attica came to regard themselves as
one people, the Choreutæ were chosen from every
tribe five.
By what gradations, however, the village chorus
was transformed into the Dithyrambic, the Dithyrambic
into the Satyric, and the Satyric again into
the Tragic, it now appears impossible to ascertain;
but it seems to be quite clear,[967] that in many ancient
tragedies the number of the chorus was fifty,[968]
as, for example, in the “Judgment of the Arms,”
by Æschylus, in which silver-footed Thetis appeared
upon the stage accompanied by a train of fifty
Nereids.[969] Again, according to certain ancient authors,[970]
in the Eumenides of Æschylus, the chorus
of Furies at first amounted to fifty, which, rushing
tumultuously, with frightful gestures and horrid
masks,[971] into the orchestra, struck so great a terror
into the people, particularly the women[972] and children,
that their number was afterwards reduced by
250law. I am aware that several distinguished scholars
think very differently on this subject; some maintaining,
that the chorus of Furies always consisted
of fifteen, while others reduce their number to three.
But, though both these opinions have been supported
with much learning and ingenuity, it seems difficult
to admit either the one or the other. In the
first place, since every thing connected with the
stage was in a state of perpetual fluctuation, since
the masks and costume were repeatedly altered,
since the number of the actors was augmented,
since almost every arrangement of the theatre, and
every characteristic of the poetry, underwent numerous
modifications; the chorus, also, it is probable,
submitted to the same alterations or reforms till
it settled in that tetragonal figure[973] and determinate
number which it afterwards preserved, as long
as the legitimate drama existed in Greece.
In one point of view the history of the chorus
is extremely remarkable. At first, and for some
time, it constituted in itself the whole of the spectacle
exhibited at the Dionysiac festivals, where its
songs and dances, accompanied by such rude music
as the times afforded, satisfied the demands of the
popular taste, and were consequently supposed to
be everything that the god required. By degrees,
as experience suggested improvements either in the
music, in the manner of dancing, or in the materials
and composition of the odes, the movements,
singing, and appearance of the Chorus, assumed a
more artificial form, which was necessarily carried
forward many steps in the career of amelioration
by the institution of rival bodies of Choreutæ, who,
from the natural principle of emulation, endeavoured
to excel each other. Next, a detached member
of its own body, mounted on a table, enacted the
part of a stranger or messenger come to announce
something which it imported the servants of Dionysos
251to know. This table was doubtless placed
directly in front of the altar of Bacchos, on the
steps of which the leader of the chorus was probably
mounted in after ages, to hold communication
with the stranger; and, as this altar ripened
through many gradations into the Thymele, so the
aforesaid table rose through innumerable changes
into the Logeion. It may be remarked, moreover,
that the slope of a hill,[974] when any such existed
near the village, would naturally be chosen on such
occasions to afford the peasants an opportunity of
standing behind each other on ascending levels, and
thus, without inconvenience, beholding the show;
and where such natural aid did not present itself,
they probably threw up embankments of turf in the
semicircular form, which experience proved to be
most convenient, and, out of this rude contrivance,
grew those vast and magnificent structures, which
afterwards constituted one of the noblest ornaments
of Greece.
The single actor, detached in the manner we have
said from the Chorus, speedily acquired greater importance,
and the aid of poetry was called in to
frame and adorn his recitals; and as, during the
songs and dances of the Chorus, he necessarily remained
idle, the idea soon suggested itself that a
second actor[975] would be an improvement, upon which
dialogue and the regular drama sprang into existence.
Among the principal duties of the Chorus was the
performance of certain dances, simple enough at the
outset, but, in process of time, refined and rendered
so intricate by art, that it required no little learning
and ability to execute all their varied movements
with dignity and grace. Somewhat to assist the eye
and memory, the whole pattern, as it were, of the
dance seems to have been chalked out on the floor
252of the orchestra;[976] while the greatest possible pains
were taken in drilling the Choreutæ to open, file
off, and wheel through their labyrinthine evolutions,
without confusion. The manner in which these persons
usually entered the orchestra, that is to say,
ranged in a square body, three in front and five
deep, or five in front and three deep, has suggested
to some the notion that they represented a military
Lochos;[977] but besides that this is inconsistent with
their Dionysiac origin, they did not always preserve
this arrangement, but, on some occasions, came rushing
in confusedly, while on others they traversed the
Parodos in Indian file.
The musicians,[978] in the Greek theatre, took their
station upon and about the steps of the Thymele,
which answers as nearly as possible to the position
of the orchestra in our own theatres. Here, also,
stood the Rhabduchi,[979] or vergers of the theatre, whose
business it was to see that order was preserved among
the spectators.
With respect to the dances[980] performed by the
Chorus, they were so numerous, long, and intricate,
that it would be here impossible to enumerate and
describe the whole. They appear to have conceived
the idea of representing almost every passion and
action in human life by that combination of movements
and gestures which the term pantomime, borrowed
from their own language, expresses much better
than our word dancing.[981] A taste, in some respects
253similar, still prevails among the Orientals,
whose Ghawazi and Bayadères, though relying rather
upon routine and impulse than on the resources of
art, perform at festivals and marriages, and before
the ladies of the harem, little love-pieces and pastoral
scenes, which evidently belong to the class of mimetic
dances described by ancient authors.
In tragedy, such as it existed in the polished ages
of Greece, the movements were slow and solemn,
and, no doubt, full of dignity. The spirit of comedy
required brisk and lively, and frequently tolerated,
audaciously wanton dances; while the Chorus of the
Satyric Drama would appear to have been rude and
clownish rather than indecent, indulging in grotesque
movements, ludicrous and extravagant gestures, and
that rustic and farcical style of mimicry which may
be supposed to have prevailed among the rough
peasantry of Hellas.
In classing the various dances, it will, perhaps, be
sufficient if we divide them into lively and serious,[982]
joining with the latter all such as attempted to
embody a symbol or an allegory.
In certain dramas of Phrynichos the Chorus represented
a company of wrestlers,[983] who contrived by the
quick, flexible, and varied movements of the dance,
to imitate all the accidents of the palæstra. Sometimes
they personated a party of scouts in the active
look-out for the enemy, each with his right hand curved
above the brow: this was one form of the Scops.[984] On
other occasions the dancer mimicked the habits of the
254Scops, or mocking-owl, twirling about the head, and
appearing to be absorbed in an ecstasy of imitation, until
taken by the fowler. The performance of a piece like
this, by a numerous Chorus, sometimes breaking off
into a brisk gallopade, sometimes maintaining the same
position, jigging, pirouetting, and ducking the crest,
must, no doubt, have appeared infinitely comic; and
yet it could have been nothing in comparison with
the Morphasmos,[985] in which, not the characteristic peculiarities
of a single owl, but those of the whole
animal creation were “taken off.” Thus we may
suppose that the Hegemon of the Chorus started as
a baboon, his next-door neighbour as a hog, a third
as a lion, a fourth as an ass, and so on, each man
accommodating his voice to the character he had,
pro tempore, assumed, and gibbering, grunting, roaring,
braying, as he leaped, or gamboled, or bounded,
or scampered about the orchestra. Anon the frisky
foresters were transformed into slaves, who would seem
to have been introduced to the audience pounding
something, perhaps onions and garlick, in a mortar.
The Oclasma,[986] a dance borrowed from the Persians,
reminds one strongly of the performances of the negroes
in the interior of Africa, the whole Chorus
alternately crouching upon its heels, and springing
aloft, like the frogs of Aristophanes about the fens
of Acheron. Not, perhaps, un-akin to this, were
those three frenzied dances, alluded to rather than
described by the ancients,—that is to say, the
Thermaustris,[987] which seems to have consisted of a
series of violent bounds, like the performances of
the Hurons and Iroquois;[988] the Mongas, which, from
the name, probably represented the friskings and caracollings
of a jackass; and the Kernophoros,[989] or dance
of the first-fruits, wherein the Chorus appeared upon
255the stage, some bearing censers, others fruit-baskets,
evidently in a character resembling that of Bacchanals.
To this species of dance belonged, also, the Hecaterides,
in which the performer interpreted his desires
or passion by furious gestures of the hands. The
Eclactisma was a female dance,[990] requiring the exertion
of great force and agility, its characteristics
consisting in flinging the heels backwards above the
level of the shoulders. Corresponding, in some measure,
to the Eclactisma, was the Skistas,[991] in which
the dancer bounded aloft, crossing his legs several
times while in the air. There was a dance, evidently
of a very extraordinary description, which they performed
to an air called Thyrocopicon,[992] or “knocking
at doors,” possibly representing the frolics of such
wild youths as anticipated the scape-graces of our
own day. The Mothon was a loose dance, common
among sailors; the Baukismos, Bactriasmos, Apokinos,
Aposeisis, and Sobas,[993] were laughable, but
lewd dances,[994] resembling the Bolero and Fandango
of the Spaniards.[995]
The Heducomos was a dance expressive of the
outbreaks of joy, and the Knismos,[996] represented the
pinching, struggling, and quarrels of lovers. The
Deimalea was a Laconian dance performed by Satyrs
and Seileni, skipping and jumping about in a
circle.[997] Another Spartan dance[998] was the Bryallika,
of a ludicrous and licentious character, performed
by women in grotesque masks, whence a courtezan
at Sparta was denominated, Bryallika. The name
of Hypogypones,[999] was bestowed on certain performers
who imitated old men, flourishing their sticks about
256the stage, as we are informed they did in the
play of Simermnos.[1000] Akin in spirit to these were
the Gypones,[1001] who made their appearance in transparent
Tarentine robes, and mounted on stilts probably
in the form of goats’ feet, to give them a
resemblance to the Ægipanes, worshipped as gods
of the woods. A peculiar dance in honour of Artemis
took its rise in the village of Carya in Laconia,
where its invention was attributed to Castor and
Polydeukes. No description of it, so far as I know,
has come down to us; but the maidens by whom it
was performed probably bore, and steadied with one
hand, a basket of flowers on their heads, thus forming
the model of those architectural figures, still
from them called Caryatides.[1002] The representation
of this performance was, doubtless, a favourite subject
among Spartan artists or such as were employed
by the Spartans, as may perhaps be fairly inferred
from the circumstance, that the device on the ring,
which, in return for a comb, was presented by Clearchus
to Ctesias to be shown to his friends at Lacedæmon,
was a dance of Caryatides.[1003]
Amid the laxity of morals which prevailed in the
later ages of Greece, the Pyrrhic,[1004] once supposed to
be peculiar to warriors, degenerated into a dance of
Bacchanals, with thyrsi instead of spears, or carrying
torches in one hand, while with the other they
sportively cast light reeds at one another. The story
told in this mimetic performance referred to remote
antiquity, and was both curiously and elaborately
intricate, comprehending all the adventures of Bacchos
and his merry crew during the Indian expedition,
and assuming towards the conclusion a tragical
form, developing the sad story of Pentheus.[1005]
Among the dances of a grave character are enumerated
257the Gingra performed like the Podismos
to slow and solemn music, the Lion and the Tetracomos,[1006]
a warlike measure performed in honour of
Heracles and supposed in its origin to have had
some connexion with the Tetracomoi of Attica, that
is, the Peiræeus, Phaleron, Oxypeteones, and Thymotadæ.[1007]
We read, moreover, of dances in which the performers
represented certain historic or mythological
personages, such as Rhodope, Phædra, or Parthenope.[1008]
The Anthema,[1009] or Flower-dance, appears to have
been chiefly performed in private parties by women,
who acted certain characters and chanted, as they
moved, the following verses:
Where is my lovely parsley, say?
My violets, roses, where are they?
My parsley, roses, violets fair,
are my flowers? Tell me where.
The Athenians, however, seem to have imagined
that there was nothing in nature which might not
be imitated in the dance, by the turns and mazes
of which they accordingly sought to represent the
movements of the stars.[1010] A similar fancy, if Lucian
may be credited, possessed the Indian Yoghis,
who every morning and evening before their doors
saluted the sun, at his rising and setting, with a
dance resembling his own,[1011] which, as that luminary
no otherwise dances than by turning on its axis,
must have been a performance resembling that of
the whirling derwishes, whose broad symbolical petticoats
are meant, I presume, to represent the disk of
the sun. But the dance most difficult of comprehension
is that upon which they bestowed the name of
258κόσμου εκπύρωσις,[1012] or the “Conflagration of the World.”
Of the figure and character of this performance antiquity,
I believe, has left us no account, though it probably
represented, by a train of allegorical personages
and movements, the principal events which, according
to the Stoics, are to precede the delivering up of the
Universe to fire.[1013] Scaliger,[1014] who does not attempt to
explain this strange exhibition, observes, however,
pertinently, that it was a dance in which Nero might
have figured, his burning of Rome deserving in some
sort to be regarded as a rehearsal of this piece.
There existed among the Spartans[1015] an elegant
dance denominated Hormos, or the Necklace, performed
by a chorus of youths and virgins who moved
through the requisite evolutions in a row. The line
was headed by a young man who executed his part
in the firm and vigorous steps proper to his age,
and which he would afterwards be expected to preserve
in the field of battle. A maiden immediately
followed, but, instead of imitating his masculine manner,
confined herself to the modest graceful paces and
gestures of her sex, and this alternation and interweaving,
as it were, of force and beauty, suggesting
the idea of a necklace composed of many coloured
gems, gave rise to the appellation.
The dance of the Crane,[1016] among the Athenians,
in some respects resembled the above. It was, according
to tradition, first invented by Theseus, who
259landing at Delos on his return from Crete, offered
sacrifice to Apollo and dedicated the statue of Aphrodite
which he had received from Ariadne, after which
he joined the young men and women whom he had
delivered, in performing a joyous dance[1017] about the
altar of Horns erected by Apollo, from the spoils
of his sister’s bow. The Choreutæ, engaged in executing
the Geranos, or Crane, formed themselves
into one long line with a leader in van and rear,
and then, guided by the design on the floor of
the orchestra, described by their movements the
various mazes and involutions of the Cretan labyrinth,
until, having traversed all its intricate passages,
they emerged at once, like their great countryman
and his companions, into light and safety. Other
dances there were, which, however curious they may
have been, cannot now be described from the scanty
materials left us: such were the dance of Heralds,
or Messengers, the dance of the Lily,[1018] the Chitonea,
the Pinakides, the dance of the Graces,[1019] and that
of the Hours, in which the performers floated about
with a circle of light drapery held over the head by
both hands.[1020]
If from the dances we now pass to the Choreutæ,[1021]
by whom they were performed, we shall
find that they generally made their appearance in
the orchestra with golden crowns upon their heads,
and habited in gorgeous raiment, frequently interwoven
or embroidered with gold.[1022] The Chorus,
however, like the actors, must have constantly varied
its costume, to suit the exigencies of the
drama; sometimes to perform the part of senators,
sometimes of Nereids, sometimes of female suppliants,
260sometimes of urn-bearers, sometimes of clouds,
or wasps, or birds. When in the tragedy of Æschylus
they were required to personate the Furies,
their exterior was the most frightful that can well
be imagined,—their long but scanty robes consisting,
as has been conjectured, of black lamb-skins,
slit up below and exposing their tawny withered
limbs to sight, while their blood-stained eyes, livid
tongue hanging out, and hair like a mass of knotted
serpents, easily accredited the belief of their being
infernal existences. Thus habited, with fingers terminating
in black claws,[1023] and grasping a burning
torch, they burst upon the view of the spectators,
like so many hideous phantoms conjured up by an
imagination diseased with terror.
The costume of the actors,[1024] which some modern
writers suppose to have been extremely monotonous,[1025]
was in reality, however, as rich, varied, and
characteristic as the masks of which we shall presently
have to speak. Gods, heroes, kings, chiefs,
soothsayers, heralds, rustics, the hetairæ, and their
mothers; gay youths, flatterers, libertines, procurers,
cooks, satyrs, slaves, &c., had each and all their
appropriate dresses and ornaments, modified, no
doubt, from time to time by the change in public
taste, and the fancy of the poets. The divinities
had almost to be wholly framed by the Dionysiac
artificers. Conceived to be of superhuman stature,
it was necessary that the actors who represented
them should, in the first place, be lifted up on Cothurni,[1026]
or half-boots, the soles of which were many
inches high,[1027] their limbs and bodies were enlarged
261by padding, their arms lengthened by gloves, while
their countenances, which might be ignoble or even
ugly, were concealed by masks of exquisite ideal
beauty, rising above the stately forehead in a mass
of curls, which at once corresponded with the nobleness
of their features and augmented their colossal
height: add to all this robes of purple, or
scarlet, or azure, or saffron, or cloth of gold, floating
about the person in graceful folds, and training
along the floor, and we have some faint idea of
the celestial personages who with gemmed sceptres
and glittering crowns made their appearance on the
Grecian stage.
The queens and heroes,[1028] who were constantly beheld
grouped in converse, or in action, with these
sublime dwellers of Olympos, were clad in a costume
scarcely less majestic; the former, for example,
in times of prosperity, issued forth from their palaces
in white garments, with loose sleeves reaching
to the elbow, and closed on the upper part of the
arm by a succession of jewelled agraffes,[1029] their
tresses confined in front by a golden sphendone, or
fillet, crusted with gems, while their robes terminated
below in long sweeping trains of purple.[1030] But
when their houses were visited by misfortune, the
262milk-white pelisse was exchanged for one quince-coloured
or blue, while the purple train was converted
into black. The costume of the kings,[1031] likewise
varied by circumstances, consisted usually of
an ample robe of purple, or scarlet, or dark green,
descending to the feet, a rich cloak of cloth of
gold, or of some delicate colour, adorned with gold
embroidery, and a lofty mitre on the head.[1032] When
any of these characters, as Tydeus or Meleager, was
engaged in hunting or war, he wore the scarlet or
purple mantle called Ephaptis,[1033] which in action was
wrapped about the left arm. Athenæus, in describing
the horsemen of Antiochos, observes, that these
Ephaptides[1034] were embroidered with gold and adorned
with the figures of animals. Bacchanals and soothsayers,
like Teiresias, generally appeared upon the
stage in an extraordinary garment, denominated
Agrenon,[1035] formed of a reticular fabric of wool of
various colours. Dionysos himself,[1036] in whose honour
the theatre with all its shows was created,
descended from Olympos in a saffron-coloured robe
compressed below the bosom by a broad flowered
belt, and bearing a thyrsus in his hand.[1037] This girdle,
in the case of other gods, or heroes, was sometimes
263replaced by one of gold.[1038] Persons overtaken by
calamity, especially exiles, wore garments dirty-white,
or sad-coloured, or black, or quince-coloured,
or bluish. The costume of Philoctetes, Telephos,
Œneus, Phœnix, Bellerophontes, was ragged. The
Seileni appeared in a shaggy Chiton, and the other
personages of the Satyric drama in the skins of
fawns, or goats, or sheep, or pards, and, sometimes,
in the Theraion or Dionysiac garment, and a flowered
cloak and a scarlet Himation. Old men were distinguished
by the Exomis,[1039] a white Chiton of mean
appearance, having no seam or arm-hole on the
left side—young men by the Campulè,[1040] a scarlet or
deep purple Himation,—the parasites by bearing
the Stlengis and flask (as country people by the
Lagobalon) and by black or sad-coloured robes, except
in the play of the Sicyonians, where a person
of this class, being about to be married, sported a
white garment,—the cook by an Himation double
and unfulled,—priestesses by white robes,—comic
old women by such as were quince-coloured or dusky,
like a cloudy morning sky in autumn,—the mothers
of the hetairæ wore a purple fillet about the head,—the
dresses of young women were white and delicate,—of
heiresses the same with fringes. Pornoboski
wore garments of various colours, with flowered
cloaks, and carried a straight wand, called ἀρéσκος.[1041]
There were, likewise, female characters which wore
the Parapechu and the Symmetria, a chiton reaching
to the feet, with a border of marine purple.
We now come to the masks,[1042] a subject upon which
264much has been written, though very little has been
explained. The primary difficulty connected with
them is, to determine whether they were so constructed
as to resemble a speaking-trumpet,[1043] which,
by narrowing the stream, and compressing, as it were,
the particles of the voice, cast it forth condensed
and corroborated upon the theatre,[1044] which it was thus
enabled to penetrate and fill, even to its utmost
extremities. My own opinion, after bestowing much
attention upon the subject, is, that the mask was in
reality so constructed as to communicate additional
force and intensity to the voice; but whether by
roofing or encircling the artificial mouth by metallic
plates, or thin laminæ of the stone called Chalcophonos,[1045]
it is now scarcely possible to determine.
Be this, however, as it may, there existed in some
theatres other contrivances for conveying and augmenting
the volume of the actor’s voice; these were
the Echeia,[1046] vases generally of metal, finely toned,
and arranged according to the musical scale, in a
succession of domed cells,[1047] running in diverging lines
up the hollow face of the theatre. They rested with
one edge upon a smooth and polished pavement, the
mouth outward, and the external edge reposing on the
summit of a small, blunt obelisk,[1048] while a low opening
in each cell enabled the resonances, or echoes,
thus created, to issue forth, and fill the air with
265sound,[1049] which, however the fact may be accounted
for, produced no isolated reverberations, no confusion.
The materials wherewith the masks were constructed
varied, no doubt, considerably in different ages;[1050]
but that they were ever manufactured of bronze or
copper is scarcely credible, if we reflect upon the
weight of so voluminous an apparatus, covering the
entire head and neck, composed of either of those
metals. Such metallic specimens as have come down
to us are to be regarded simply as model-masks,
or as works of art, designed by the statuary as ornaments.
The intention, at first, of this disguise being
to give additional boldness and self-confidence to the
actor, by concealing from his neighbours the shamefacedness
which a raw performer would sometimes
naturally feel while strutting about in imperial robes,
and pouring forth the sesquipedalia verba of Pelias
and Telephos, they were contented to cover the face
with a piece of linen, having openings for the eyes
and a breathing-place.[1051] To this appears to have
succeeded a mask manufactured from the flexible
bark of certain trees,[1052] shaped, of course, and coloured
to resemble the human countenance. The next step
was to employ wood, some kinds of which, while
possessing the advantage of extreme lightness, might
be wrought with all the delicacy and fineness of a
statue, while, better than any other material, it would
receive that smooth and polished enamel by which
were represented the texture[1053] and complexion of
the skin. Specimens of masks of this kind have been
found among nations in a very rude state; among the
266inhabitants, for example, of Nootka Sound, whose dress,
we are told,[1054] “is accompanied by a mask representing
the head of some animal: it is made of wood,
with the eyes, teeth, &c., and is a work of considerable
ingenuity. Of these masks they have a
great variety, which are applicable to certain circumstances
and occasions. Those, for example,
which represent the head of the otter or any other
marine animals, are used only when they go to
hunt them. In their war expeditions, but at no
other time, they cover the whole of their dress
with large bear-skins.”
But while the above improvements were going
on in the national theatre,[1055] the rustic drama continued
to preserve its original simplicity, the actors
to prevent their being recognised, shading their brows
with thick projecting crowns of leaves, and daubing
their faces[1056] with lees of wine. Thus disguised they
chanted their songs upon the public roads, sitting
in a waggon,[1057] whence the proverb, “he speaks as
from the waggon,” i. e. he is shamelessly abusive,
which was in fact the case with the comic poets.
The masks were divided into three kinds, the
Tragic, the Comic, and the Satyric. Those belonging
to Tragedy were again subdivided into numerous
classes, representing every marked variety
of character, and every stage of human life from
childhood to extreme old age. In the highly varied
range of countenances thus brought into play, the
mask-maker enjoyed abundant opportunities of exhibiting
his skill. The hair, of course, was real and
adjusted on the mask like a wig,[1058] differently fashioned
267and coloured according to the age, habits,
and complexion of the wearer. In some cases it
was gathered together and piled up on the forehead,[1059]
in a triangular figure,[1060] adding many inches
to the actor’s stature; at other times it was combed
smoothly downwards, from the crown, twisted round
a fillet and disposed like a wreath about the head
as we sometimes find it in the figures of Asclepios
and the philosopher Archytas. Some characters were
represented wholly bald, with a garland of vine-leaves
or ivy wreathed about the brow,[1061] others were
simply bald in front, while a third class exhibited
a bushy fell of hair, something like a lion’s mane.
Young ladies displayed a profusion of pendant curls,
kept in order by the fillet or sphendone, or gathered
up in nets, or twisted about the head in braided
tresses. In representing certain characters the eye-sockets
were left open, so that the actor’s eyes
could be seen moving and flashing within;[1062] but on
other occasions, when the part of a squinter was to
be acted by a performer who did not squint or
vice versa, as in the case of Roscius Gallus, the
mask-maker must have represented the eyes by
glass or some other transparent substance, through
which the actor could see his way. This was necessarily
268the case in the part of the poet Thamyris,[1063]
who, like our own Chatterton, had eyes of different
colours, one blue, the other black, which, as Aristotle
informs us, was common among the horses of
Greece.
The time of acting, as is well-known, was during
the Dionysiac and Lenæan festivals, in the
spring and autumn.[1064] The theatres being national establishments,
in the proper sense of the word, were
therefore open, free of expense, to all the citizens,
who were not called together as with us by playbills,[1065]
but for the most part knew nothing of what
they were going to see till they were seated in the
theatre, and the herald[1066] commanded the chorus of
such and such a poet to advance. Previously to the
commencement of the performance the theatre was
purified by the sacrifice of a young hog, the blood
of which was sprinkled on the earth.[1067]