Lafayette in America in 1824 and 1825, Vol. I (of 2)

Departure from New York: journey from New York to Boston: entry at Boston: visit to the University of Cambridge: visit to Charlestown and Bunker’s hill.

We left New York on the morning of the twentieth of August, for Boston, in the state of Massachusetts. At day light several military corps were drawn up in front of the hotel, for the purpose of escorting the general out of the city, where a parting salute was fired from a battery of six pieces of cannon, two of which had been taken from the English at the siege of York-town, in 1781. A great number of citizens on horseback, and in carriages, accompanied 28us as far as New-Rochelle, where we halted some time, to give the general an opportunity of receiving some of his old companions in arms, who being unable to come to New York, had collected together on his passage, in order once more to see him and take him by the hand.

At Sawpits we met an escort of cavalry, that joined the escort from New York, which wished to continue its service as far as Putnam’s mountain, where the young women of the surrounding villages had caused a triumphal arch to be erected. It was ornamented with the greatest possible taste, and had an inscription upon it which expressed gratitude to Lafayette, and alluded to the daring escape of General Putnam. At the foot of the triumphal arch, I was made to observe the extremely precipitate descent, down which this intrepid man dashed with his horse, to escape the English who were in hot pursuit, but dared not follow him by so dreadful and dangerous a road.

Putnam, before he appeared upon the revolutionary stage, on which he acted a glorious part, had already emerged from the obscurity to which his rustic life seemed to have condemned him. When very young, he had acquired a great reputation among his youthful comrades for strength and intrepidity, by going down into a cave to attack a she-wolf that for many years had been the terror of the neighbourhood. In the year 1755, when thirty-seven years old, he relinquished the plough for the sword, and took the command of a provincial regiment. In the war which broke out in America between France and England, he became, as a partizan leader, the astonishment and admiration of his companions in arms. One man, alone, could then be compared to him, and this one was a Frenchman, named Molang.^[5] In a rencontre between these two chiefs, Putnam was beaten and taken prisoner; he even owed his life to Molang, who rescued him from the hands of the Indians, who were preparing to burn him; but his reputation did not suffer by this affair, because he had by prodigies of valour and skill, vigorously disputed the victory with Molang.

29The news of the battle of Lexington once more caused him to relinquish his agricultural life, which he had long since resumed. His long established reputation soon rallied under his orders a great number of his fellow-citizens, at the head of whom he appeared at the battle of Bunker’s hill. From that time, till the end of the campaign of 1779, when a stroke of palsy forced him to quit the army, he lost no opportunity of proving that he had devoted his life to the cause of liberty. His probity was proverbial, and the following anecdote may give an idea of the inflexibility of his character. An individual named Palmer, a lieutenant in the tory new levies, was discovered in his camp; the English governor Tryon, demanded him as an officer in the king’s service, and threatened Putnam with his vengeance if he did not immediately release him. Putnam answered him by the following note.

“Nathan Palmer, a lieutenant in the king’s service, was taken in my camp as a spy, tried as a spy, condemned as a spy, and shall be hanged as a spy.”

“P. S. Afternoon. He is hanged.”

Through the attention of the corporation of New York, three members of which had been appointed to accompany us until our return, numerous and excellent relays had been arranged on the whole rout. Notwithstanding this necessary precaution, our march was very slow, as we could not pass a hamlet without being detained some moments by collections of people from more than 20 miles around. Every village had its triumphal arch, upon which was almost always inscribed the names of Washington and Lafayette or the dates of the battles of Brandywine and Yorktown. Every where announced by the sound of cannon, every where received and complimented by the magistrates of the people, and every where obliged to alight to receive the testimonials of the love of the entire population, it was not until after five days and almost five nights that the general arrived at Boston, which is but two hundred miles from New York; I say almost five nights, because we constantly travelled until near midnight, and set out again at five o’clock in the morning. However, amid these moving and sublime displays of the gratefulness of a whole people, we did not dream of fatigue; even our night marches had a 30charm which caused us to be forgetful of it. The long file of carriages escorted by horsemen bearing torches; the fires lighted from place to place upon the tops of the hills, and around which were grouped families whom the desire of beholding their guest had kept watching; the somewhat wild sound of the trumpet of our escort, repeated several times by the woodland echoes, the sight of the sea which occasionally came into view on our right, and the distant and decreasing peal of the bells which had announced our passage, all formed around us a picturesque and enchanting scene, worthy of the pen of Cooper. In this manner we passed through Fairfield, New Haven and New London in Connecticut; Providence in Rhode Island, and finally the route from Rhode Island to Boston.

New Haven is the largest town in the state of Connecticut, and is, alternately with Hartford, the seat of government. Its population amounts to more than ten thousand souls. It is delightfully situated on a bay formed by the East river. The shortness of our stay prevented us from making more than a hasty visit to the College, which enjoys a great reputation, not only in Connecticut but throughout the union. It was founded in 1701 under the name of Yale College, in honour of Elihu Yale Esqr. of London, its principal benefactor, then governor of the East India company. The favor which the people have constantly extended to it, has rendered it a very considerable establishment. At present the number of students is more than four hundred. It has a president, four professors, six tutors, a treasurer, housekeeper and purveyor. The college is directed by a corporation composed of a president, vice-president, six ancient members of the council, and of ten assistants, all clergymen. Business is arranged by a committee of three or four members who assemble three or four times a year. The studies pursued in the college are the following;—1st, Theology, of which the president is the professor; 2d. mathematics and natural history; 3d. chemistry and mineralogy; 4th. languages and ecclesiastical history; 5th. jurisprudence.

In order to enter the 1st class, the candidate must be able to translate the Greek testament, Virgil and Cicero; and to write Latin according to Clark’s rules; he must also 31be acquainted with arithmetic. The price of boarding is about two dollars a week.

The library contains more than 6,000 volumes, and a fund of about two hundred dollars a year is devoted to it. The greater part of the classical works, which are of great value, are the gift of Berkely, the celebrated bishop of Cloyne in Ireland, amounting to about 1,000 volumes, valued at four hundred pounds sterling.

The chemical laboratory is remarkable for the number and choice of its apparatus. The mineralogical cabinet which at first contained 2,500 specimens, has been greatly enriched by Colonel Gibbs who has bequeathed 24,000 specimens for the use of the students; these are estimated at 20,000 dollars.

Yale college has also a medical institution in which lectures are given on the following branches, 1st. theory and practice of medicine; 2d. surgery and obstetrics; 3d. anatomy; 4th. chemistry, pharmacy and mineralogy.

The president of the college, the professors and trustees conducted us through all parts of the establishment and gave us all the information in their power with a degree of complaisance worthy of our gratitude.

We were informed that there is near New Haven an admirable manufactory of arms, but the short time the general had to dispose of, would not allow us to visit it.

Public education, is in the state of Connecticut, as in New York, or even more so, the constant object of the care and attention of the people and government; it would be difficult to find in this state a child of twelve years old, unable to read and write. The law of the state directs that there shall be a grammar school in every town. There are every where a great number of academies in which the various branches of human knowledge are skilfully taught, at a slight expense. The single town of New Haven, besides Yale College, has sixteen public and eight private schools.

The school fund amounts to 1,500,000 dollars, the interest of which with 12,000 dollars arising from public taxes are annually expended for instruction; each town receives a share, proportioned to the amount of its contributions, and the schools are directed and superintended by a committee appointed by the inhabitants, who will not allow 32so important a matter as public instruction, one of the first safe-guards of liberty, to be monopolized by any religious sect, or university.

The people of Connecticut are rigid observers of religious customs; but they have long since freed themselves from the persecuting spirit, which animated the founders of the colony, whose first ecclesiastical ordinance, on taking possession of the soil in 1637, was to refuse the privileges of citizenship to all who did not entirely and unreservedly submit to the formalities of the established religion. Now that religious liberty is secured by law, the reciprocal tolerance of the different communions has established a sort of fraternity among them. We had a very striking proof of it during the Sunday we stayed at New Haven. On arriving in town, general Lafayette, that he might not in any respect act contrary to the habits of the excellent people, from whom he had received so many affecting proofs of regard, expressed a wish to attend divine service. The congregationalists and episcopalians, who formed the principal communions of the town, immediately invited him to their churches; it was difficult to accept the offer of one without appearing to neglect the other, and the general answered that he would willingly go to both. We attended first at the congregational church, and afterwards at the episcopal; we found them all surrounded and filled by the crowd without distinction of sect; in both the sermon turned upon morals, without any discussion of dogmas, and terminated by reference to him whom God had so often conducted across the dangers of the ocean, to secure the liberty of America. These sermons were listened to with an equal respect by all, and on coming out of church, the two ministers cordially shook hands, mutually congratulating each other on the happiness they had enjoyed of receiving among them the nation’s guest.

The inhabitants of Connecticut have the reputation of being litigious, which keeps, it is said, among them a great number of lawyers who necessarily live at their expense. But I believe that this reputation has no better foundation than that which they formerly had of allowing their youth of both sexes to live in a state of excessive familiarity before marriage; and that both these inconveniences either no longer exist, or at least are considerably diminished by the 33influence which time necessarily exercises upon a population daily becoming more enlightened.^[6]

The state of Connecticut contains within itself all the elements of prosperity; its fertile soil offers rich products, both of the vegetable and mineral kingdoms. Iron, lead, copper, marcasite, antimony, marble, porcelain clay, and anthracite coal are found in quantities in some of the counties. To give an idea of the number, variety and activity of the manufactures, it is sufficient to say that of a population of nearly 280,000 souls, more than 18,000 persons are constantly employed therein. Industry is indebted to Connecticut, for many useful inventions; among others for the following; Chittendon’s machine for making card-teeth, for the carding machines invented in 1784, and since highly perfected; this machine is set in motion by a mandrel twelve 34inches long and one inch in diameter, each revolution of which makes a tooth; it makes 36,000 an hour.—Miller and Whitney’s machine for separating cotton from the seeds. Before this invention, the cotton was picked by hand, and an individual could not pick more than a pound in a day; by this new method more than a thousand pounds a day are cleaned. The right of the inventors of this machine was purchased for 50,000 dollars by the government of the state.—Wm. Humphrey’s machine for spinning wool by water power; twelve spindles of this machine spin as much as forty common spindles. The right of constructing this machine costs a dollar for each spindle. The machine of Culver for clearing out basins, and removing sand-bars from the mouths of the rivers; by means of this machine the canal of the Thames has been considerably deepened.

Lafayette experienced keen regret on entering the state of Rhode Island, on account of his inability to delay his journey for an instant. He would have enjoyed much pleasure in revisiting places, which recalled so many of his youthful recollections.

In 1778, Lafayette was detached from Washington’s army with two brigades, to go to the assistance of Sullivan, who was endeavouring to get possession of Rhode Island, which the English had occupied since 1776. To render the success of his operations more sure, he waited for the arrival of the count d’Estaing, who commanded the French squadron, which having troops on board, offered the double advantage of cutting off the retreat of the British by sea, and of reinforcing Sullivan in the attacks he meditated upon Newport. But unfortunately a misunderstanding took place between Count D’Estaing and Sullivan, the French troops were not landed, and while Lafayette exerted himself to restore harmony between the two commanders, the arrival of the English squadron under Lord Howe was made known. Count D’Estaing profiting by a favourable wind immediately made sail to meet Lord Howe. Two days were lost by the admirals in manœuvring for the weather gage, and when, at length they were just about to come to blows, a dreadful tempest separated them and injured both squadrons so much, that one was obliged to seek shelter in New York, and the other hastened into Newport Harbour. 35Upon the return of the French squadron, Sullivan hoped to resume his operations, but the count D’Estaing informed him, that after having consulted with his officers, he was determined to sail for Boston; that his instructions, moreover, directed him in case his squadron suffered any damage, or should be menaced by a superior English force, that he should seek shelter in that port.

The damage that D’Estaing’s squadron suffered by the tempest, and the news of the appearance of a very numerous English fleet upon the coast, may justify his retreat to Boston, but his determination threw Sullivan and his army into despair. Without the aid of the French squadron it was impossible to count upon success. Her departure put an end to all the hopes that had been entertained. Generals Greene and Lafayette were deputed to visit Count D’Estaing and oppose his fatal resolution. They talked to him with energy of the glorious advantages which the French and American arms would derive from his co-operation against the English garrison of Rhode Island, which could not escape, and of the disastrous effects which would be produced upon the spirits of the American army by the withdrawing of an ally, whose presence had at first caused so much joy. They represented to him the dangers of his retreat across Nantucket shoals, with his ships in bad trim, and the advantages Newport possessed over Boston either for repairing his squadron or for resisting the attacks of an enemy, rendered daring by the superiority of his forces. They concluded by beseeching him not to sacrifice to little private quarrels, the glory and interests of two nations united in support of so admirable a cause. Notwithstanding the importance of all these considerations, the Count D’Estaing persisted in his resolution, and sailed immediately. Being thus abandoned by the squadron, Sullivan summoned the general officers of his army to a council, to advise upon the course to be pursued; whether to attempt to carry the place by storm, or to evacuate the island, carrying off all the magazines. The discouragement of the army caused by the departure of the squadron rendered the first proposal very difficult of execution; and the second was exasperating to men who had been so near to success. Sullivan decided on a middle course, and the council separated with a determination to raise the siege and retire to the northern 36extremity of the island, where behind their entrenchments they would wait the progress of events; this resolution was carried into execution the following night by Sullivan, with as much good fortune as skill. Sullivan once more turned his hopes upon the French squadron, and wished to make another effort with the Count D’Estaing. Full of confidence in the great influence which Lafayette exercised over all with whom he was engaged, he charged him with this delicate mission; Lafayette accepted it, but not without shewing with what reluctance he left his warlike companions, at the moment when there could be little doubt but that they would soon be attacked by the enemy. In fact, during his absence the English several times attempted, though unsuccessfully to carry the American post. These different engagements had served to raise the confidence of Sullivan’s forces. Lafayette was successful in obtaining a promise that the squadron would return as soon as all its damages were repaired. Every thing seemed to promise Sullivan the reward due to his perseverance, when the news of a reinforcement for the enemy of 4,000 men under General Clinton himself, placed him under the sad necessity of evacuating the island as speedily as possible, or of being himself blockaded. He prepared to retire with a peculiar degree of skill. The movement was about to commence, when to the great astonishment of Sullivan, Lafayette arrived to take command of the rear-guard. He had travelled the distance from Boston to Rhode Island, about thirty leagues, in seven hours, a circumstance almost incredible. Sullivan was highly gratified by this zeal, and gave him the command of the rear-guard; every thing was executed with so much correctness, that at two o’clock in the morning the movement was entirely terminated, and the American troops placed in safety upon the continent from Providence to Tiverton.

The thanks of Congress were presented to Sullivan for this retreat, and they also commended Lafayette as much for the sacrifice of his personal satisfaction, in consenting to quit the army on the eve of a battle, for the sake of the interests of the United States, as for the vigorous conduct he had exhibited in commanding the rear-guard.

From the joy which was on all sides expressed on our arrival at Providence, it was easy to perceive that the people 37of this country had not lost the recollection of Lafayette’s conduct in the trying times of the revolution: neither were the expressions of gratitude of Congress forgotten, as I heard them repeated by many persons, and beheld them inscribed upon all their triumphal arches. Notwithstanding the solicitations of the people and magistrates, the general could not delay longer than was necessary to take some refreshment; we then hastened towards the frontier of Massachusetts, where two aids of the governor of that state waited for Lafayette, with other carriages and a fresh escort. We met them at sunset. Colonel Harris, the governor’s first aid, regulated our march with so much activity, that we reached Dedham at eleven o’clock, and at two o’clock in the morning, we arrived by torchlight in Roxbury, a delightful village two miles from Boston, where the residence of Governor Eustis was situated, who waited for the general with eager impatience. In spite of the lateness of the hour, all the inhabitants of the house were on the alert, having the windows, avenues and the garden illuminated. The governor received the general in a frank, plain, and friendly manner, such as became an old republican soldier, delighted to receive an ancient comrade whose toils he had shared.

Two hours sleep made us forget the fatigues of the day, and rendered us fit for entering Boston in the morning. At day-break we were awakened by the sound of martial music; it was from the light infantry which was already manœuvring in front of our windows. The sight of the uniform of this company deeply affected the general, he could not keep his eyes off it, and exclaimed every moment, “my brave light infantry! such was their uniform! What courage! what resignation! How much I loved them!” At this instant the governor’s aid introduced a man, still young, but of a melancholy aspect; he carried a sword in his hand, which he presented to the general: “Do you know this sword?” said he. “I find at least,” said the general, “that it strongly resembles those which I brought from France to arm the sub-officers of my light infantry with.” “It is one of them;——my father received it from your hands: it has served gloriously in gaining our independence. He religiously preserved it in memory of his general, and would have been happy to have presented it to 38you himself; the day before yesterday he still hoped to do so, and this hope softened his last moments,—on that day he died. He has not bequeathed me wealth, but has left me this sword, which will be the most precious of legacies if you sanction his gift.” While he was speaking, the general had taken the sword and examined it with interest; he returned it to him immediately, saying, “Take it, guard it carefully in order that it may in your hands be used to preserve the rights it has so gloriously contributed to acquire in the hands of your father.” The American received the sword with joy, and left the room, pronouncing with tenderness the names of Lafayette and of his father.

Soon after, the procession which was to accompany the general arrived; the cannon gave the signal for marching. The concourse of people coming out of the city was so great, and so much obstructed the road, that we were two hours in riding the distance of only two miles. All the road was lined with troops on foot, and on horseback. The carters of Boston, dressed in perfectly white frocks, formed a numerous corps of well mounted cavalry. Sixty small boys, from twelve to fourteen years old, organized as an artillery company, and having two pieces of cannon proportioned to their strength, ran in front of the procession. From time to time they halted and fired a salute from their battery, and then pushed forward with rapidity, to take another position, and fire another salute. At noon we reached the suburbs of Boston. At the entrance of the city, under a triumphal arch we were met by the corporation; the mayor alone in an open carriage, stopped by the side of the open carriage of the general. Both rose to salute each other, when the mayor addressed him on behalf of the city. The calm and modest appearance of the general during the discourse, the fine countenance of Mr. Quincy, which became more animated as he proceeded in his address, the triumphal arch which shaded the orator and hero, together with the attitude and solemn silence of so many thousand citizens, offered at this moment to my astonished vision, the beau idéal of a popular festival, a republican triumph. After the general had replied, we traversed the city to visit the state house; during this passage, the evidences of the love of the inhabitants lavished on the general, were so affecting, that it was impossible to avoid shedding tears. 39In front of the state house, upon an immense terrace, whence the sea might be discovered at a distance covered with small vessels, was a long double row of girls and boys, from the public schools, all decorated with Lafayette badges; raising their little hands towards heaven, and uttering cries of joy. One of the youngest girls advanced towards the general; she was lifted up to his carriage, placed a wreath of evergreens on his head, embraced him tenderly, and called him Father. We then entered the senate chamber, where all the public functionaries were collected, the society of Cincinnati, the scientific bodies, and as many citizens beside as the hall could contain. At the moment the general appeared before Governor Eustis, who received him at the door, the national standard was displayed from the dome of the state house, and all the troops fired a volley. After the address of welcome was pronounced in the name of the government, and in the presence of the citizens of the state of Massachusetts, the scene of the New York City Hall was repeated; that is, the general was detained for more than two hours, by the expressions of regard from all who could approach him. From the state house we were conducted to Park street, to an hotel prepared for us. The mayor introduced us to our apartments, which were richly furnished, saying, “here you are at home; I hope you will find every thing that is necessary; if you find no superfluities recollect that you have been received by republicans.” These words of Mr. Quincy were doubtless very amiable, but I confess they made us think a good deal upon what the Boston republicans considered necessary, especially when we found that fine horses and carriages had been provided for our use, during all the time that we should stay.

In the evening we dined at the Exchange Coffee-house with the governor and staff, the corporation, and all the other public authorities. The hall was decorated with devices which referred both to the actions of Lafayette, and the gratitude felt by the Americans for the assistance of France, when Fortune, still wavering, held her scales equally balanced between liberty and oppression. The French and American flags waved united over the head of the president of the banquet, and Chief Justice Parker gave a toast to the memory of Louis XVI. adding, that none of 40the friends of liberty should be forgotten, although they might have worn a crown.

On the 25th, at noon, we attended the commencement at Cambridge University, which was conducted with a pomp, the splendor of which was considerably increased by the presence of a very great number of ladies, attracted by the desire of seeing Lafayette, who it was known would be present.

Cambridge is one of the richest and most beautiful villages in New England: it is situated at three miles distance from Boston, and contains more than 3,000 inhabitants. Its university, called Harvard, in honour of its founder, has produced a great number of distinguished men, both in science and literature. The citizens of Massachusetts are proud of its success, and support it with a liberality which proves how much knowledge and education are esteemed in this state. Besides the chairs of divinity, anatomy, surgery, medical science, chemistry, theoretic and experimental physics, mathematics, natural philosophy, logic, metaphysics, Latin, Greek and the Oriental languages, which have been long established, six new chairs and three faculties have been founded for about twelve years, as follows.^[7]

1st. A chair of natural history founded by private subscription for the establishment of a botanical garden and the support of a professor.

2d. A chair of Rhetoric and Eloquence, established by a donation of Ward Nicholas Boylston, Esq.

3d. A chair of Greek Literature founded in 1814, by an unknown benefactor of Boston.

4th. A chair of the Spanish and French languages, founded by a rich merchant of Boston, who bequeathed for this purpose a sum of 30,000 dollars.

5th. A chair founded in 1816, by Count Rumford, for the application of physical and mathematical sciences to the useful arts.

6th. A chair of natural theology, and moral philosophy, founded in 1817.

41The three faculties which complete the course of instruction are,

1st. A school of medicine, 2d. a theological seminary in which the education and all the wants of the students are paid for by subscription. This subscription is completely filled by persons who are devoted to the public good. 3d. a law school for those who are destined to the bar.

The library contains about 20,000 valuable works, and is augmented annually by private donations.

In short, this university by its revenues, its library and cabinets, the merit of its professors, and the means it furnishes for the acquisition of all the branches of education, has not its equal, not only in the rest of the union, but perhaps even in Europe.

General Lafayette was received at the door of the chapel, in which the exercises were to take place, by the President of the university, Mr. Kirkland, who addressed him with an eloquence springing from the profound emotions of his heart. When the general entered the hall, the acclamations and transports of the crowd, and especially of the ladies were so great, that the business of the meeting was for a long time delayed. It certainly was an enchanting spectacle to behold the vast galleries filled with young ladies wreathed with flowers, waving their handkerchiefs in salutation of him, whom they called their father, friend, defender, and companion of the Great Washington. In vain the president frequently called for silence, without which it was impossible to be understood; every voice was drowned with the cries and plaudits for Lafayette. At length after half an hour had elapsed, quiet was established, and the exercises began, but were often interrupted by the eagerness, with which the audience seized upon all the allusions to Lafayette, that occurred in the discourses.

We returned next day to the university, to be present in the same hall, with the same audience, animated with equal enthusiasm, at a meeting of the Hellenic Society.^[8] Professor 42Everett, whose early talents and eloquence promise a distinguished senatorial orator, delivered the opening discourse. If mine were a more practised pen, I should attempt to repeat here this discourse, which notwithstanding its length, was throughout listened to with vivid interest, and was often suspended by well merited applause.

The orator proposed to investigate the particular causes which contribute most to the developement of intelligence in the United States, and without difficulty proved that they were to be found in the democratic character of our institutions. After a long, but vigorous demonstration of the superiority of a republican government as it is understood and practised in the United States, over the monarchic system, which after having divided a part of the nation into nobles, privileged priests, and soldiers always armed as an inquisitorial police, makes of the rest a class of political outcasts. The orator concluded by paying to Lafayette his tribute of gratitude.

Early on the morning of the 27th, carriages, an escort of cavalry, the civil and military authorities, and a great number of citizens came to convey the general to the navy yard at Charlestown, which is only separated from Boston by an arm of the sea, over which we passed on a fine bridge a mile in length. We were received at the navy yard by Commodore Bainbridge, whose name is associated with more than one glorious engagement with the English navy. After inspecting the works we ascended Bunker’s hill.

Bunker’s hill is one of those glorious monuments, unfortunately too rare on the face of the earth, which will remind the latest posterity of the noble struggles of liberty against tyranny and oppression. It was at Bunker’s hill that the Americans first dared in a regular fight to brave the arms of their tyrants. It was there, that men almost without arms, undisciplined, and far inferior in numbers to their enemy, but encouraged by the presence of their wives, children and fellow citizens, who from the heights of Boston made them feel the magic of the words Independence, 43Posterity, sustained with a courage worthy of the heroic ages, three successive attacks from numerous battalions, which their experience and skill in the art of war, appeared to lead to an easy victory. Forced at length to retire before superior numbers, the Americans withdrew, but in good order, leaving bloody proofs of their courage and vigorous resistance. It was but a moment before this retreat, which revealed to the friends of liberty their powers and hopes, of this retreat which was equal to a victory, that the young and interesting Gen. Warren fell. Though incessantly engaged in daring death, he passed through the battle unharmed. But on returning to the entrenchments which he had left to pursue the English, who had thrice fallen back in confusion, he received a fatal wound in the loins. He now rests under a simple pyramid erected precisely on the spot where his blood stained the soil. It was at the base of this modest monument that General Lafayette was received by some veteran soldiers, a glorious remnant of this first combat of the war of Independence. In their presence Dr. A. R. Thompson addressed the general on behalf of the citizens of Charlestown. Lafayette was much moved by his address, and his emotion was communicated to all the byestanders. His answer was received by the acclamations of the multitude and the roar of artillery. Immediately after some battalions of young troops led by Governor Eustis and Generals Brooks and Dearborn filed off before the general to the sound of cannon and martial music which performed that sublime air, dear to French patriots, which reminds them that they too have had their Warrens whose generous blood has watered the tree of liberty, in whose shade they would at present gloriously repose, had it not been shaken by anarchy and struck to the heart by the sacrilegious steel of an audacious soldier.

A simple repast served under a tent terminated this ceremony, after which we returned to the city to visit the military arsenal; the ancient city hotel whence the people set out in crowds for the port to destroy two cargoes of tea sent by the British East India Company, and the Hall where the declaration of Independence was signed in Massachusetts. During the course of these visits I collected the details relative to the history and present situation of this state which will be found in the following chapter.

44

Camp of Savin Hill. Visit to John Adams: review of the regulations of the Massachusetts militia.

On the 28th of August general Lafayette was invited by the governor to visit the camp at Savin Hill, a few miles from Boston; he accepted the invitation, and we arrived there at noon. Savin Hill is a very picturesque situation on the borders of the sea, where during the fine season the volunteer militia companies of Boston go successively to pass some days in camp, for the purpose of military exercise. On our arrival we found them under arms. The young officer in command came to receive the general, and after a brief address he returned to the head of his troops, which manœuvred with much precision. After various movements of infantry, the artillery commenced firing at a mark. Most of the shots were fired with great skill, at a target floated at a sufficient distance on the water. The artillerists invited the general to aim one of their pieces, which he did, and his shot knocked the target in pieces. This successful shot, which no one expected from a man of his age, procured him the applauses of all the young soldiers, and of the ladies who usually visit the 62camp to see their brothers and husbands, but on this occasion had flocked in greater numbers to see Lafayette.

The guns of the artillerists attracted our attention from the moment of our arrival; after the exercises were finished I approached to examine them more attentively, and was considerably surprised to recognize our French models, which were perfectly imitated. From the officers who observed the interest with which we examined these pieces, we learned that this improvement was owing to general Henry Lallemand, who was forced by the proscriptions of 1815 to seek a refuge in the United States, where he died in 1823, universally esteemed and regretted. The militia of Massachusetts are indebted to him for great improvements in their artillery; and he has left a treatise on the subject, in three volumes, in which, it is true, he has only reproduced in part the regulations already known and practised in France, but which he has admirably adapted to the use of those for whom he wrote. He married in Philadelphia the niece of a French gentleman, who during 50 years residence in that city, had by his success in commerce, amassed one of the largest fortunes in the United States. The situation of general Lallemand, however, was not improved by this marriage, as he died poor. His amiable and interesting widow, with her only daughter, continues to reside at Philadelphia, under the protection of her uncle.

After visiting the camp at Savin Hill, the governor took us to dine at his country seat; whence we returned to attend a brilliant ball, which Mr. Lloyd, senator of the United States, gave to general Lafayette.

John Adams, whose name is so gloriously connected with all the great epochs of the American revolution, and who had the honour of succeeding Washington in the first magistracy of the republic, was then detained at his retreat by the weight of eighty-nine years. Lafayette who had been acquainted previously, and even maintained a strict friendship with him, was unwilling to depart without paying him a visit: a feeling of delicacy, easy to be understood, made him wish that this visit should be unattended by any of that triumphal pomp, by which his slightest movements had been accompanied. In consequence, he set out in a carriage, merely accompanied by two 63gentlemen of the city, and followed by his son and myself. We arrived about two o’clock at Quincy. Our carriages stopped at the door of a very simple small house, built of wood and brick, and but one story high. I was somewhat astonished to learn that this was the residence of an Ex-President of the United States. We found the venerable John Adams in the midst of his family. He received and welcomed us with touching kindness: the sight of his ancient friend imparted a pleasure and satisfaction, which appeared to renew his youth. During the whole of dinner time, he kept up the conversation with an ease and readiness of memory, which made us forget his 89 years.

The long life of John Adams has been exclusively devoted to the service of his country and liberty, which from his youth he passionately loved.

He was born at Quincy, the 19th October, 1735, and studied at Cambridge, which he left in 1755, to take charge of a grammar school at Worcester, where, at the same time, he applied himself to the study of the law, under James Putnam. In 1758, he was admitted to the bar. In 1770 he was chosen as a representative of the town of Boston, in the Assembly of Massachusetts. When the quarrels between the English soldiers and the citizens of Massachusetts became sanguinary, he showed his full strength of character, by defending captain Preston and his soldiers, for firing on the people; in this defence he was assisted by Josiah Quincy, jr. and S. Blowers. He was unwilling that the love of liberty should transcend the love of justice, and his eloquence secured the safety of those unfortunates, who were in fact nothing but the blind and ignorant instruments of English tyranny.

In 1774, he was elected a member of the Council of Massachusetts, but the political opinions which he had already expressed openly and energetically on numerous occasions, caused him to be rejected by governor Gage. A few months afterwards, he was sent to the Continental Congress, where he proved one of the most ardent and skilful defenders of liberty.

In 1776, he was appointed, together with Jefferson, each to draw up a Declaration of Independence. Jefferson’s address was preferred by Congress, as is known, but Adams’s, on account of his eloquence and patriotism, was 64not the less regarded as the soul and fire of that immortal assembly. Shortly after he was sent with Dr. Franklin and Edward Rutlege, to treat with Lord Howe for the pacification of the colonies.

In 1777, he was appointed commissioner to the court of France, in place of Silas Deane. In April 1779, Congress having censured all the other European commissioners, made an honourable exception of John Adams. On his return from Europe, the same year, he was elected a member of the Convention assembled to revise the Constitution of Massachusetts. In the month of August of the same year, he was sent to Europe with power to treat for a general peace.

In December, 1780, Congress voted him public thanks for the services he had rendered in Europe. In 1781, he concluded with the provinces of Holland a treaty very advantageous to his country.

In 1785, he was sent as minister plenipotentiary to England. It was during this honourable mission, that he published, in 1787, at London, his learned summary of all the ancient and modern constitutions, under the title of Defence of the American Constitutions. This profoundly erudite work, in which the author in several passages appeared to indicate his predilections for English constitutions, drew forth vigorous attacks from a large number of patriotic writers, and particularly from Philip Livingston, then governor of New Jersey, who opposed him in an excellent work, which he published under the title of Examination of the English Constitution.

Recalled from England at his own request, he was received with the thanks of his fellow-citizens and of Congress. In 1789, after the adoption of the new constitution, John Adams was elected Vice-President of the United States, and remained in this honourable situation during the eight years of the presidency of Washington, whose confidence in his talents and patriotism was unbounded.

In 1797, he was himself elected to the Chief Magistracy of the republic, to succeed Washington, who refused a third election. Circumstances were then very difficult. The French revolution, which at first received the general approbation of the United States, had at that time become, through the intrigues of royalists and foreigners, an object 65of horror, even to its warmest partizans. The French question agitated all minds, and had become the subject of vivid discussion, and sometimes of violent attacks, between the two parties called Federal and Democrat. The ill-managed attempts of our diplomatic agents in the United States, to profit by these divisions, alarmed President Adams, and induced him to propose to Congress, as a measure of security, the suppression of the act of habeas corpus. This proposition was too directly opposed to the sentiments of liberty, entertained by the American people, not to be rejected with force, and I may say even with indignation. The House of Representatives would not even discuss the bill, and the popularity of John Adams received at that time such a shock, that at the expiration of the fourth year of his administration, he was not re-elected.

In 1801, he retired to his dwelling at Quincy; his fellow-citizens soon forgot the cause of his retreat, and only remembered the great and numerous services he rendered to his country during his long career. The governorship of Massachusetts was offered him, and some time afterwards he was invited to preside over the committee appointed to revise the constitution of the state. But he began to feel the necessity of repose; he thanked them, and concluded by praying the theologians, philosophers, and politicians, to let him die in peace. Notwithstanding this refusal, he had not become insensible to the great interests of the country, and when she was menaced in 1811 by the odious vexations of England, his patriotic voice was heard from the bosom of his retreat, declaring that the national honour could only be maintained by war. His eloquence was re-animated in a letter which he wrote to rally to this sentiment, those whom party spirit had most widely separated. In short, he so generously sacrificed his private opinions to the dangers of the moment, that his most ardent adversaries could not withhold the expression of their admiration and gratitude.

At the moment of our visit, although he could not go out of his chamber, could scarcely raise himself from his chair, and his hands were unable to convey the food to his mouth without the pious assistance of his children or grand-children, his heart and head felt not less ardour for every thing good. The affairs of his country afforded him the most 66pleasant occupation. He frequently repeated the greatness of the joy which he derived from the gratitude of his fellow-citizens towards Lafayette. We left him, filled with admiration at the courage with which he supported the pains and infirmities which the lapse of nearly a century had necessarily accumulated upon him.

A grand review had been ordered and prepared for the 30th, in the morning the troops from the environs of Boston arrived under command of general Appleton, those of the city had pitched their tents upon the common, in front of the capitol on the preceding evening, and on rising we were struck with the appearance of this extemporaneous camp. At noon, about 8,000 men were drawn up in line of battle, on this vast parade: a great concourse of ladies adorned all the windows which overlooked the ground, or filled the surrounding walks. A few moments after general Lafayette presented himself, accompanied by the governor and his staff, before the line, where he was received by the acclamations of the troops, to which martial music and the shouts of the spectators responded. After passing in front of the ranks of these young soldier-citizens, whose equipments and appearance might charm even eyes accustomed to the regularity of hired European troops, the general was conducted to the most elevated point of the parade, to behold the military movements which were to follow. We did not discover in the handling of their arms, that minute precision to which European officers attach so ridiculous an importance, and which is only acquired by reducing a soldier to the sad condition of a puppet, for, at least, four hours a day; but we were forced to admire the promptitude of the charges, and the union and vivacity of the firing. Beyond doubt, the movements of the line were somewhat defective as to calmness and precision; but it was impossible, I believe, to execute with greater rapidity and intelligence all the movements of light troops. This sort of service appears to be very consonant to the American character; it is also well suited to troops more particularly called to the defence of situations where all the resources are known to them, and which are particularly favourable to a war of detail. This sort of sham battle, which was performed before our eyes, lasted nearly three hours, and interested us exceedingly; when it was ended we went 67under an immense tent, where the principal citizens to the number of 1200, were collected at table to receive the adieus of Lafayette, who was to quit the city on the next morning. In the centre of the table, and in front of the places we were to occupy, stood a large silver basin, filled with fragments of arms or projectiles, military buttons, &c. collected on Bunker’s Hill a long time after the battle of the 17th June. The governor had the goodness to offer us some of these fragments; for my part, I gratefully accepted a button, upon which, notwithstanding the rust that covered it, could readily be distinguished the number, 42; it is known that this number is one of those which suffered most severely in attacking the American entrenchments. The care with which the Americans preserve and revere all the monuments of the revolution is very remarkable; every thing which recalls this glorious epoch, is to them a precious relic, which they regard almost with religious reverence. This sort of devotion is praiseworthy, since it contributes to feed the sacred fire of love of liberty, by which they are animated. It is worth quite as much, I believe, as that profound veneration which we have in Europe for the ribbands conferred by power.

During the review I remarked with surprise the variety of uniforms; in the numerous companies that defiled before us, scarcely could I find two companies somewhat similar in this respect. Some were clothed with a luxury that was very little adapted to war; while those from the country, were on the contrary so simply clad, that they had nothing military about them but the cartridge box and musket. This difference was explained to me by the formation of volunteer companies. These are composed of young men, who, from being friends or neighbours, organize under the authority of the governor, a peculiar company; the colour and fashion of their uniform is decided by common consent; they elect their own officers, and choose the name of their corps. Thus organized and constituted, they remain always subject to the general regulations by which all the militia are governed, but they meet much more frequently for the purpose of military exercise; as most of these young men are sufficiently well off, they can afford to expend something upon a brilliant dress, and hence the variety of their uniforms. If from this slight 68rivalry in elegance, between the volunteer companies, great emulation in service ensues, as the officers suppose who had the kindness to give me some information on these points, it is unquestionably an advantage; but is it not to be feared that this advantage may be attended by serious inconveniences? May not the embroidery and plumes which at present serve to distinguish one company from another, hereafter be used to distinguish the son of a rich merchant from a mere mechanic? and will not this distinction between the rich and poor militiaman open the door to the aristocracy of wealth, which is not less an enemy to equality than the aristocracy of parchments? I am aware that American manners and institutions diminish this danger; but ought a danger to be disregarded because it is still distant?

The existence, organization, duties, and basis of the discipline of the militia throughout the Union, are determined by general laws emanating from congress. However, as differences of situation or manners which distinguish the aspect of the various states composing the great federation require modifications in the application of these laws, each state regulates for itself the formation of militia corps, their especial discipline, the appointment of officers, &c. &c. taking care, however, not to depart from the general principles established by congress.

As all the particular regulations of the States differ somewhat from each other, and it would, moreover, be too tedious to describe them all in detail, it may suffice to satisfy the reader’s curiosity that we present in this place a sketch of the regulations of the Massachusetts militia.

The law of the Congress of the United States, calls into the ranks, all citizens capable of bearing arms from the age of eighteen to forty-five, inclusively; the law of Massachusetts makes an exception in favour of the individuals hereafter designated: the lieutenant governor of the state; members of the executive council; judges of the supreme court, the inferior courts and their clerks; members of the legislature; justices of the peace; all officers employed in the registry of deeds, &c.; the attorney general, the solicitor general; secretary and treasurer of state and their clerks; sheriffs; teachers of public schools; the ministers of all religious sects, without distinction; all civil officers appointed by the 69United States, and finally the Quakers, when they present a certificate signed by one or two of their elders, stating that the bearer is actually one of their society, and is conscientiously scrupulous of bearing arms. Nevertheless, all the individuals above excepted from militia duty, are obliged from the age of 18 to 45, to keep in the house, and to present at each annual review, the arms and equipments of war prescribed by the laws of the United States: they must, moreover, pay two dollars a year, which are placed in the treasury of the town or district, to be employed in arming and equipping poor citizens unable to furnish their own accoutrements.

Journey from Boston to Portsmouth: sojourn at Portsmouth: history, constitution and statistics of New Hampshire: journey from Portsmouth to New York: description of Long Island.

The state of New Hampshire having sent a deputation to invite general Lafayette to visit the navy yard at Portsmouth, we set out for that place on the 31st of August, by the way of Lexington, Concord, Salem, Marblehead and Newburyport. We delayed but a few moments at Lexington, but we left it deeply impressed by the touching scenes we there witnessed, and the historical recollection it awakens. We recollected that it was at this place in 1775, a few farmers were slaughtered by an English battalion; and upon the same spot Lafayette was welcomed by a free and happy population assembled to greet him. We advanced through two handsome lines of militia troops to the base of the pyramid which indicates the place where the first martyrs of liberty fell, and now repose. There two old men related to us this first scene of the grand revolutionary tragedy, in which they were actors; and this 70circumstance lent a powerful charm to their recital, which captivated our attention. They were delighted to recall the smallest particulars of this action, repeated with heated indignation the insulting and menacing words of the fierce Pitcairn, when he summoned them to surrender, and the smile of pity and contempt curled their lips when they told how 800 Englishmen had fired upon sixty farmers: they then named with tenderness those of their companions and friends who fell by their sides, turning their eyes filled with tears upon the ground, while our own involuntarily rested upon the last asylum of these hero citizens, paying them a tribute of gratitude and admiration. After some moments of solemn silence, one of the two old men exclaimed, “we still weep for our brethren, but we do not deplore them, they died for their country and liberty!” At the words country and liberty, the crowd, deeply affected, responded by shouts of “long live Lafayette,” and during a long time it was difficult to moderate this burst of public gratitude. All the militia of the district were assembled at Lexington; they defiled before the pyramid and Lafayette, lowering before these two monuments of their revolution their standards, upon which the murder of their ancestors was delineated, by which hatred of despotism is perpetuated among these youthful soldier-citizens.

Just as we were about to depart from the pyramid to re-enter our carriages, a young man presented himself, having in his hands a long rudely shaped and rusty musket; he presented it to Lafayette with a solemnity which induced us to suppose that the weapon by some peculiar circumstance had acquired a right to the veneration of the bearer. In fact, we learned that this was the musket from which the first fire was returned to the English, upon the field of Lexington. “My father bore it on the 19th of April, 1775,” said the young man; “in his hands it commenced the work that Washington and you so gloriously achieved; I am happy to make it known to you.” Lafayette examined it with pleasure; all of us desired to touch it; in returning it to him, the general advised him to have inscribed on the stock the date of April 19th, and the name of the brave citizen who bore it, and then to keep it in a box for the purpose of securing it from the ravages of time. He was moved by this advice and promised to follow it.

71Although Concord is but a short distance from Lexington, we were nevertheless obliged to stop there. The inhabitants of the vicinity were collected in the public square, where a tent of flowers and verdure had been erected, under which a troop of blooming and beautiful girls offered refreshments to the Nation’s Guest, who was forced to take a seat at the centre of an elegantly prepared table, around which none but ladies were admitted. Young girls crowned with flowers moved around the table of which they did the honours with touching grace and ease; but it was especially to Lafayette that all their attention was directed, and upon him their tenderest care was concentrated. All was smiling, all was gracious in the picture of happiness and joy before us; but at the same instant we were struck by a singular contrast. In front of the tent, at the other extremity of the public square, we perceived upon a hillock which terminated it, a confused collection of funeral monuments. We recognized the place consecrated to the dead. Of all these monuments, the greater number were already blackened by time; some were still of a glaring whiteness; near one of the latter was placed a female and two children clad in black, whose sorrowing attitudes seemed to say that festival days are not days of repose for death; but not one of the gay party appeared to regard this; all were too happy to remark the narrowness of the space by which they were separated from the spot where all sink into oblivion.

At Marblehead I was aroused from the profound reverie into which the circumstances at Concord had plunged me, by the sound of cannon, and the shouts of the people, who rushed to meet Lafayette. Brilliant preparations had been made to receive him, although it was known that he could only stop to breakfast. In ascending Washington Hill, we were met by the pupils of eleven public and twenty private schools, conducted by their teachers and the president of the board of instruction. There were nine hundred children of both sexes. A deputation, formed by a representative from each class, approached the carriage, and presented an address to Lafayette, in which the children expressed to him their gratitude for the services he had rendered their parents. Salem is only 14 miles from Boston, 72and yet we did not reach there until afternoon, because at almost every step Lafayette was obliged to stop to receive testimonials of regard from all we met upon the road. At the entrance of the city, we were received by the magistrates, and by a numerous cavalcade of citizens; several military corps were drawn up on each side of the way, and his entry was announced by salutes of artillery and the chiming of the bells. In spite of the rain, which fell in torrents, the streets were entirely filled with the crowds that rushed towards him, and uttered their benedictions. We passed through the town on foot, in order to go under a great number of triumphal arches decorated with emblems and inscriptions. Upon one was “Honour to Lafayette! honour to him who fought and shed his blood for the peace and happiness we enjoy:” upon another, “Lafayette, friend and defender of liberty, welcome to the land of your adoption;” on another, “In the day of our adversity, thou didst aid us, in the days of our prosperity, we recall thy services with gratitude.” The dining-hall and the dinner itself, had been decorated and prepared by the hands of a great number of ladies. In front of Lafayette’s seat, amid garlands of flowers, was the following inscription: “Lafayette in America—Where can one better be than in the bosom of his family?”

Ancient companions in arms, placed at his sides, claimed the privilege of serving him, reminding him gaily, that they acquired this right at Yorktown, where he had not refused their services. The dinner ended with a great number of toasts. One was drank to “France, the friend of liberty in America; may she never become the friend of oppression in Europe.” Immediately after, we quitted Salem to pass the night at Newburyport. Although the weather continued to be disagreeable, the general could not dissuade the Salem citizens from escorting him; they galloped along side of his carriage, sword in hand, for nearly nine miles, at the risk of falling twenty times, so very bad were the roads.

Notwithstanding all our diligence, it was late at night when we arrived at Newburyport. The brilliance of the illuminations, and the fires lighted in appropriate places in the street, the uninterrupted sounds of cannon, bells, the shouts of people, and the sight of armed troops advancing 73rapidly to the sound of the drum, might have led one to suppose we were entering a town taken by storm, and delivered to the flames, if the words Liberty, Country, Washington, Lafayette, which incessantly fell upon our ears, had not reminded us that we were present at a truly national and popular festival. Although the night was so far advanced, the general was obliged to devote a considerable time to the reception of the citizens who pressed forward in crowds to greet him. We stopped at Tracy’s inn, which had been prepared for our reception. General Washington staid there in 1789. The chamber he used was afterwards preserved with the greatest care; the furniture had not been changed, and Lafayette had the pleasure of resting in the same bed, where, thirty-five years ago, his father and his friend had reposed. From the joy which appeared to sparkle in the eyes of our host, it was easy to divine the sentiments that animated him, and how difficult it would be to induce him to part with the furniture which had served Washington and Lafayette.

We left Newburyport early in the morning, and arrived about mid-day at Portsmouth. Numerous corps of infantry, and almost the whole population, headed by their magistrates, came out of the city to meet Lafayette. A thousand children from various schools were ranged in a double row along the road, and though these poor children had no other covering but wreaths of flowers, and the rain was falling abundantly, none would relinquish their posts. The procession formed to accompany the general’s entry into the town, was more than two miles long. After it had passed through the principal streets, we stopped in Congress street, at Franklin Hall. There the president of the town council pronounced on behalf of the assembled citizens, an address.

The general was then presented to the governor of New Hampshire, Mr. Morill, who had purposely come from his residence, to receive him, after his introduction to the governor, he was surrounded by his ancient companions in arms, among whom he recognized general Smith, who had served three years under him as a captain of light infantry. While they were felicitating each other on their meeting, they were interrupted by another old revolutionary 74soldier, who with tears in his eyes recounted aloud the great number of services rendered to him during the war, by the Marquis; Lafayette with much difficulty interrupted his recital which embarrassed him exceedingly, but which vividly excited the interest of the spectators.

In going to our lodgings, which were prepared in the house of the late governor Langdon, we met some Indians in the street; these were the first I had seen, and excited my curiosity very much; some members of the committee caused a dozen of these savages from the forests of Canada to visit us at our lodgings. I learned that they came from beyond the great lakes to exchange peltries for toys and liquor. I confess that I found nothing in them which corresponded with my ideas of these children of nature.^[9] Their dresses had no other character than that of misery; crosses and chaplets had taken the place of their beautiful head-dresses of plumes, their furs and their arms; their drunken visages had nothing of that noble expression which is said so particularly to distinguish the savage man: at first their manners appeared affectionate, but it was soon evident that they were only servile or interested. They talked of beads and confession, as their fathers, no doubt did of sorcerers and manitoes. In a word it appeared to me that these poor wretches had only changed superstitions, and that civilization had brought them its vices without any of its benefits. In fact I was assured that the 75majority of them had become idle, drunken thieves, without being in the least degree improved in knowledge. An old man who spoke a little French, appeared to be their chief, he told us they lived in Canada. When asked if they were happy in the vicinity of the English, he replied that they loved the French very much; and immediately he and his companions shook hands very cordially with us. They had with them several of their wives, some of whom were suckling their children; they also appeared very miserable, and by no means pretty.

During our conversation with the civilized Indians a new procession was formed to conduct Lafayette to the navy yard; he went thither a few moments afterwards, but neither his son nor myself could accompany him, as we were desirous of profiting by a sure and prompt opportunity of writing to our friends in France. We regretted however that we missed the chance of seeing the navy yard which is said to be very fine and of considerable extent. The remainder of the day was occupied by a public dinner at which all the public officers and Mr. Salazar, chargé des affaires for the republic of Columbia were present. After dinner we went to a ball, where more than four hundred ladies were introduced to Lafayette; we left the ball at midnight to take our carriages for Boston, where our travelling companions from New York awaited us. Before resuming the account of our progress, I will devote a few pages to the history, constitution, and present condition of the state of New Hampshire, of which Portsmouth is the most considerable town, both for its population, which exceed seven thousand souls, and its commerce which is very extensive.

The state of New Hampshire is situated between the 42° 42′, and the 45° 14′ N. Lat. and between the 4° 29′ and the 6° 10′ of east longitude, from Washington; its surface contains 9280 square miles; its form is that of a trapezium, having its base to the south. On the north it is bounded by Lower Canada; south by Massachusetts; east by Maine and the ocean; and west by the Connecticut river which separates it from Vermont. The coast of New Hampshire is about eighteen miles in extent, is generally sandy and slightly indented. In the interior we find very high lands, amongst which the white hills or mountains 76are the highest. The most considerable collection of water are the lakes Umbagog and Winnipiseogee, and the lakes Connecticut, Piscataqua and Merimac. The soil of New Hampshire is of primitive formation and generally fertile; however the most productive are on the borders of the streams, which deposit a rich alluvion by their inundations. On the banks of the sea an abundance of salt hay is cured which is found to be very acceptable to the cattle. The most abundant mines are those of iron in the district of Franconia and at Enfield. A small quantity of native silver in threads is found in the western mountains, but it is not worth the expense of procuring it. Plumbago is found in considerable abundance in Sutton county district, and about Monadnock mountain.

The heats of summer are short but excessive; as to the cold it must be very severe, since lake Winnipiseogee which is twenty-four miles in length, and in some places twelve miles wide, is frozen for three months in the year, so hard as to bear heavy wagons. The climate is, however, very salubrious, and examples of longevity are not uncommon; individuals are frequently known to live over an hundred years.

New Hampshire was discovered in 1614 by captain Smith, and the first settlements were made by fishermen and planters on the river Piscataqua, in 1623. These establishments were placed under the government of Massachusetts in 1692. In 1787 the first constitution of New Hampshire was framed, and the limits determined between it and Massachusetts. In 1765 the people rejected the stamp act with energy, and afterwards engaged in the revolutionary war, which they supported with vigour and perseverance to the end. The state of New Hampshire was the ninth that voted for the adoption of the new federal constitution of the United States; it was carried in the legislature by a majority of eleven, the number of members being 300. This circumstance decided in favour of the establishment of the federal government. The new constitution was adopted in 1792; it was preceded by a declaration of rights and recognised three powers, the legislative, executive, and judiciary.

The legislative power is vested in the senate and a house of representatives, which compose the general assembly, and 77each branch exercises a negative over the other. Bills relative to monies originate in the house of representatives, but it may be amended in the senate which directs the expenditures.

The senate is composed of thirteen, elected annually by taxable citizens. A candidate must 1st, be thirty years old; 2d, must own a freehold in the state worth £200—3d, he must have resided in the state seven years previous to the election, and be a resident of the county by which he is elected.

The house of representatives is composed of members from the different towns, the number of which is proportioned to the population in the ratio of one representative for every 150 taxable inhabitants, of 20 years old at least, and of two for every 450, so that it requires 300 additional taxable inhabitants for every new member.

The election is made by ballot, and no one is eligible unless he own in the county a freehold, whereof he is seized in his own right, of the value of £500. It is necessary also that he reside in the district at the time of his election, and have resided two years within the state.

Every male citizen of 20 years old, except paupers and persons exempt from taxes at their own request, have the right of voting for senators and representatives. The executive power is confided to the governor and five councillors.

The governor is chosen annually by vote of all the taxable citizens; and if two candidates have an equal number of votes, the choice is decided by the joint ballot of both houses of assembly. A candidate for the governorship must be thirty years old, be an inhabitant of the state for seven years preceding the election, have an estate of the value of five hundred pounds, one half of which to consist of a freehold in his own right, in the state. The governor is commander in chief of the forces by land and sea, with the advice and consent of the council of state, which he assembles at will. He appoints the attorney and solicitor general, and the other officers of justice. He has the right of pardoning criminals, except such as are convicted before the senate, by impeachment of the house. He signs all the commissions which are moreover countersigned by his secretary.

78The councillors are also elected by all the taxable citizens of 20 years old, and the same requisites are demanded of them as of the governor, with this difference however, that at least three hundred pounds of their property must be in freehold.

The secretary, treasurer, and commissary general are chosen by ballot by the senators and representatives.

The treasurer of the county and the town clerk are appointed by the inhabitants of each county.

The members of congress are chosen by the inhabitants assembled in town meetings, and their votes are sent to the secretary, who opens them before the general court. It is in the same way that candidates for the presidency and vice-presidency are chosen. The two senators in congress are elected by the general courts.

The judiciary court is composed of a superior court of four judges who annually make two circuits through the counties; an inferior court, with the same number of judges in each county, who sit four times a year; a general court of sessions of justices of the peace, who sit at the same time; a court of probates, formed of a single judge who sits every month in each county; and justices of the peace.

The judges are appointed by the governor and council, and retain their places until they are 70 years old. They are liable to impeachment for misbehaviour in office.

The jury composed of twelve freeholders whose verdict decides the judgment in civil and criminal suits, is selected by the municipal council from among persons worth fifty pounds. The names of one third of the members are placed in one box; and the names of the two-thirds in another. The jurors for the superior court are drawn from the first box, and those for the inferior court from the second, by the town clerk in the public assembly.

The general court is authorized to reform the judiciary system when it is deemed convenient or necessary to the public service; to give to the justices of the peace jurisdiction in civil causes, when real estate is not concerned and the damages do not exceed four pounds, with the right of appeal to another court and the trial by jury.

The chief justice receives 1500 dollars per annum; each of the other judges receives 1200.

The sheriffs like the judges are ineligible after they have 79attained to seventy years, nor can they act or receive fees as lawyers or counsel, while they are in office.

All the civil and military officers take the following oath before entering upon office.

“I solemnly swear that I will bear faith and true allegiance to the state of New Hampshire, and will defend the constitution thereof, and I will faithfully and impartially discharge and perform the duties incumbent on me as governor, secretary, &c. &c. to the best of my abilities, agreeably to the rules and regulations of this constitution, and the laws of New Hampshire, so help me God.”

If the officer be a quaker his affirmation is received, adding thereto, “I do this under the pains and penalties of perjury.”

The financial organization is equally economic and liberal. Every town appoints one or more collectors of taxes, who are furnished with the tax lists and entrusted with full powers to seize, in case of necessity, the goods or persons of delinquents. If any one refuse to produce a statement of his property subject to taxes, the municipal council determines the sum such an individual shall pay to the state. The levies upon the counties are divided by the judges of a court which is held four times a year, and the proportion that each town is to pay, is specified in the order to the treasurer of the county.

A new assessment of taxes is annually made in the month of April, upon the property of taxable individuals; all these goods are taxed at six per cent of the value of their income; except uncultivated lands, and ships which only pay ¼ per cent of their real value. Mills and ferry-boats are taxed one-twelfth of their annual income: funds in commerce according to their value, and money at interest at from three-fourths to one per cent.

The debts contracted by the state in 1814, amounting with the interest to more than 30,000 dollars, have been paid; and the state has at present considerable funds in the bank of the United States.

The wisdom and economy of the administration, and the equity of the government have borne their fruits. The happiness of the people of New Hampshire is indubitable; it is attested by the diffusion of knowledge, by the wealth of commerce, the prosperity of agriculture, and the rapid 80increase of population. This increase in spite of the constant emigration towards the new countries of the south, and especially of the west, is still very remarkable. In 1755 the population was about 34,000 souls; in 1790 it was 141,885; in 1800 it was 183,858; in 1810 it was 214,460, and at present it amounts to 244,161 souls. Of this number about 800 are free persons of colour. Although there is no special law against slavery, the philanthropic spirit of the inhabitants, and a correct view of their interests, have done justice in regard to this monstrosity, and we may say at present, slavery does not exist in New Hampshire: we may say the same indeed of all the New England states.

This population of 244,161 souls, furnishes 2,384 persons devoted to agriculture, 8,699 to manufactures, and 1,068 to commerce.

The state of New Hampshire could bring 25,000 men into the field from the class of citizens from 16 to 45 years old. In case of need this force could be considerably augmented by the men who are on the alarm list, which is formed of men from 45 to 60 years old, and of all those exempt from ordinary service by the militia regulations. The exemptions are the same as those of Massachusetts.

I have said that the diffusion of knowledge in New Hampshire was great. The advantage of a good general education is owing to the care of the government and the foresight of the constitution, which directs the legislator and magistrate always to regard as a sacred duty the advancement of the interests of letters and science and of all the public schools; to encourage private institutions; to give rewards and privileges for the encouragement of agriculture, the arts, sciences and commerce; the natural history and manufactures of the country.

As in all the rest of the Union, absolute liberty in religious concerns is declared by the constitution to be a natural and inalienable right; no one can be disturbed or interfered with on account of his religious views. The law does not acknowledge any dominant sect. All the ministers of the different communions have equal right to the protection of the government, and receive their salaries from their parishioners, whose good will they are obliged to acquire, and they only obtain it by setting a virtuous example. Thus their manners are generally pure, 81marriages common, and celibacy but little esteemed. It is rare in the interior towns to find a bachelor over thirty years old. The girls marry so young, that it is not uncommon to see the mother and daughter both nursing their infants at the same time. We may also readily find the grandfather, father and son, at work together in the fields.

Many other particulars remained to be learned relative to New Hampshire, but the general having promised to make a second visit in the ensuing spring, I shall profit thereby to collect the information I could not procure during so short a stay.

We left Portsmouth for Boston, as already stated, at midnight and arrived there at two o’clock; we set out again at four, through Lexington, Lancaster, Worcester, Tolland, and Hartford. In each of these places, Lafayette received from all the citizens evidences of regard, which vividly affected him, but to which he had scarce time to respond, so rapid was our journey. We slept the first night at the charming country house of Mr. Wilder, near Boston, whose kind hospitality will never be effaced from our memory. On the second, we stopped at Stafford, after having been present at the brilliant festivities of Worcester, and on the fourth day, at 10 A.M. we arrived at Hartford, a pretty and very commercial town, situated upon the west bank of the Connecticut river, fifty miles from its source. The population of Hartford is 4726 souls, and it divides with New Haven the advantage of being the seat of government of the state of Connecticut.

Lafayette entered Hartford preceded by a numerous escort of troops, and welcomed by the whole population with the most lively demonstrations of veneration and love. The municipal body came to meet him, and the mayor delivered an address. He was then conducted with great pomp to the State House where he was received by Governor Wolcott, who in receiving him, addressed him in the name of the state.

After his discourse, to which Lafayette made an affectionate reply, numerous introductions of all the persons who could come into the hall, took place. The assembly could scarcely retain their emotion, when old general Wadsworth entered, bearing the epaulettes and scarf worn by Lafayette at the battle of Brandywine, where he was 82wounded. The scarf still retained traces of his blood. These epaulettes and scarf were given to General Swift after the peace, and his family had preserved them carefully, in memory of him who wore them, and the cause he defended.

At the moment we left the state house, he found himself in the midst of eight hundred children from the public schools, who presented him with a gold medal on which was inscribed, “The Children of Hartford to Lafayette, September 4, 1824.”

After passing through several streets strewn with flowers, we arrived at the institution for the deaf and dumb. About sixty of these young unfortunates arranged in a line, awaited in the profound and eternal silence which the lamentable caprice of nature had imposed on them, for the arrival of Lafayette. As soon as they saw him, they pointed out to him, while placing their hands on their hearts, a legend containing these words, “What the nation expresses we feel.” At their head was their teacher Mr. Clerc, pupil of the Abbe Sicard and of Massieu.

Lafayette experienced lively pleasure in seeing this young Frenchman, whose love of liberty and of humanity had brought him to this country, where he had rendered the most important services.

When General Lafayette had reviewed the troops, under command of Colonel Johnson, and taken leave of the magistrates and inhabitants of Hartford, he was conducted on board of the steam-boat Oliver Ellsworth, by a detachment of an hundred revolutionary veterans, preceded by the military band. After taking leave of his ancient companions in arms, the boat pushed off, and we began to descend the Connecticut. This river which arises between lower Canada and New Hampshire, a little above the 45th degree parallel of latitude, serves as a boundary between this state and that of Vermont, and traverses the states of Massachusetts and Connecticut from north to south. Its course is about three hundred miles long. Although much obstructed by rocks, it is navigable by batteaux almost to its source, and large vessels can ascend it nearly fifty miles. During its course, it receives a large number of tributaries, and empties into Long-Island sound about thirty miles east of New Haven. Its banks are very delightful and fertile, 83though we had but little time to enjoy the sight. Soon after leaving Hartford, our boat stopped in front of Middletown, a beautiful little manufacturing town situated upon the right bank of the river. The sound of cannon and the acclamations of the crowd that thronged the bank, apprised Lafayette of the impatience with which he was expected by the people of Middletown. He hastened on shore to express his satisfaction, and it was not until seven in the evening that he returned on board the Oliver Ellsworth; so that night soon came on and hid from our view the beautiful dwellings which adorn both banks of the Connecticut. However we could form some idea of their number by the lights which appeared on the right and left, glittering like stars amid the obscurity.

At day-break we emerged from the river into Long-Island sound, commonly called the East River. We had Long-Island on our left, and the state of New York on our right.—Whichever way we turned, we beheld beautiful country houses or farms, the mere aspect of which announced comfort and abundance. Although the sun was but just risen when I went on deck, I perceived a large number of ladies at their windows, waiting for the vessel which they knew was to bring back Lafayette, to New York. As soon as our flag was perceived, it was saluted by the most animated exclamations and signs of the warmest affection.

While breathing the fresh morning air, always more so in the vicinity of the sea, and contemplating with pleasure, the delightful harmony of a beautiful prospect, and a rich and free industry, I was accosted by one of our travelling companions, an old revolutionary soldier, who came with us from Hartford, who said he could not sleep during the night, so much was he excited by the pleasure of seeing his general again. I asked him for some account of the most remarkable dwellings, which were in view, and he replied with much kindness, and in a way that led me to believe, that he was familiar with the navigation of the sound. When asked if he had occasionally visited Long-Island, he replied, “Oh yes, certainly, and it is long since the first time; it was in 1776, and without the courage and skill of our worthy General Washington, it is probable that this first visit to Long-Island would have also been my last, and my bones would now rest in peace. It would have been a 84pity, however, as I should have missed the happiness I yesterday enjoyed in shaking hands with one who has done so much for the independence of my country,” and a tear of gratitude and tenderness fell from his eyes. After some moments of silence, emboldened by his frank and cordial manners, I inquired in what manner his first visit occurred, with which so many other recollections appeared to be connected. He replied, by taking me by the arm, and turning round towards Long-Island, which like a moving panorama, was swiftly passing before our eyes, “in 1776, I was no longer a child, as my bald head and white hairs may show you, and served in the continental army; our regiment made part of the forces destined to defend Long-Island. On the 7th of August, the English and Hessians to the number of about 24,000, protected by the guns of their ships, landed upon the island. We had not more than ten thousand troops, and were in such a position that the greater part of these could not be brought into action. The action was hot and our resistance obstinate, although the enemy had every advantage over us in numbers, discipline and experience.

“The attack of the English was conducted with intelligence and bravery, but I dare say, if we were less skillful, our courage was not undervalued by our adversaries. In fact, we were soon surrounded, some were taken and the rest dispersed, leaving the victory in the hands of the enemy together with our two generals, Sullivan and Sterling. We lost from 1000 to 1200 men, and the English about as many.

“After this unfortunate engagement, we entrenched our lines at Brooklyn, where we were not in safety; fatigued and discouraged by our defeat, having in front of us, an enemy of superior force, rendered daring by success, and knowing that a numerous squadron was preparing to cut off our retreat by entering the East river, we felt clearly, that we could not escape complete destruction unless by the aid of Providence, and the prudence of our commander-in-chief; Washington resolved to withdraw us from this dangerous position. Profiting by the darkness of the night, he crossed the East river in person on the 29th of August, and found us in our lines. His presence re-animated our 85hopes and courage; we relied with confidence on his direction, and our retreat was effected with an address, which alone would have sufficed to rank him among the best generals. It is true that under these circumstances, Providence vouchsafed us a striking evidence of its protection. A thick fog enveloped Long-Island during the whole night; so that our movements were completely concealed from the enemy, although the atmosphere on the New York side was brilliantly clear. We passed so near to the enemy, that we could distinctly hear the labourers at work, preparing for the attack of next morning. Before day-break, our 9000 men, with their baggage, magazines, horses and munitions of war, had crossed the river, where it is more than a mile wide, and without losing a single man. An hour after our arrival at New York, the fog dispersed as if by enchantment, and permitted us to see the English entering our lines with defiance, where not a single man was to be found.”

During this recital of the old soldier, almost all our travelling companions were collected on deck, grouped around us, and the conversation soon became general. A great deal was said of Long-Island, of the elegance and richness of its country seats where the merchants of New York go to seek repose and fresh air during the protracted heats of summer. I learned that this isle, anciently called Matawack,^[10] by the Indians, its ancient inhabitants, is 140 miles long, and its width varies from one to five miles. It is the largest island existing between Cape Florida and Cape Sable. The coast, which is washed by the Atlantic ocean, is flat, sandy and indented by various bays. The greatest part of its surface is level. The soil is composed of a blackish, spongy earth, upon a basis of sand which absorbs the rain and is little favorable to vegetation. Dr. Mitchill, the learned translator of Cuvier’s theory of the earth, has remarked that a bed of sea sand extends the whole length of the island at the depth of from 30 to 50 feet, containing clam and oyster shells, and that pieces of wood have also been found in digging wells. A range of hills which traverse the island from New Utrecht in the west, to the environs 86of South-hole in the east, is elevated at Harbour hill more than 319 feet above the level of the sea. Notwithstanding the unfavorable character of the soil, the finest orchard of fruit trees is found on Long-Island, perhaps in all America. It is cultivated by Mr. Prince, a skilful gardener and orchardist, whose enlightened zeal renders great services to his country, and who will without doubt, become very serviceable to Europe, as his correspondence is already much sought after.

It was about noon when we arrived at New York, General Lafayette hoped to re-enter the city quietly, but the streamers and flags of the Oliver Ellsworth betrayed his return; and the Franklin ship of the line which was at anchor, fired a salute of thirteen guns. This salute was a signal to the citizens of New York, and when we landed at Fulton wharf we found the population collected, as on the first day of our arrival, who accompanied us with acclamations to the City hotel, where we found our lodgings as we had left them.

Entertainment given by the Society of Cincinnati: origin and statutes of the society: visit to the public establishments: dinner given by the French of New York: ball at Castle Garden.

On his return to New York, General Lafayette was informed that the society of Cincinnati intended to celebrate the next day, 6th of September, the anniversary of his birth, and he received an invitation to dine with them, which he willingly accepted. About four o’clock in the afternoon, a long file of venerable men arrived, marching two and two, holding each other by the arm for the sake of mutual support, which the weight of years rendered necessary. They were preceded by a military band, with which their tottering steps found it difficult to keep time. We went down to meet them, and were received into their 87ranks; a decoration of the order of Cincinnatus which had been worn by Washington, was attached to the button hole of Lafayette, and we commenced our march for the hotel where we were to dine. It was truly a touching sight to behold these old soldiers, the glorious remains of the war of Independence, conducting amongst them the companion of Washington, the adopted son of America. The crowd of people that filled the streets through which we passed, showed by their serious and silent conduct the respect which this procession inspired. The hall prepared for the entertainment, was adorned with trophies of arms, and with sixty banners bearing the names of the principal heroes who died for liberty during the revolutionary war. The repast was animated by the frank and cordial joy of all these old soldiers, who were delighted at the recollection of the dangers they had shared together. I had the pleasure to be placed at table by the side of General Fish, who at Yorktown commanded a battalion of intrepid militia, which under the orders of Lafayette, entered the English entrenchments with charged bayonets. He was kind enough to relate to me the details of this glorious action, and indeed of the whole campaign. The vivacity of his recital, which made me forget his seventy years, and the interesting traits of patriotism which were mingled with it, inspired a very lively interest. “I am well aware,” said he, in terminating, “that this campaign of Virginia, cannot be compared to your campaigns of Germany or Italy; neither were our fatigues and privations equal to your disasters on the retreat from Moscow.” “Neither,” added I, “can your results be compared with ours; you have won happiness and liberty, and we have riveted our chains and those of all Europe.” This melancholy reflection, poisoned for an instant the pleasure I enjoyed at this feast of patriotism and gratitude.

Towards the conclusion of the repast, a curtain was suddenly drawn at the end of the hall, and a grand transparency shown, exhibiting Washington and Lafayette holding each other by the hand, before the altar of liberty, and receiving a civic wreath from the hands of America. This sight caused new transports of joy among the company, the expression of which was only interrupted for a moment by the strong voice of General Swartwout, who suddenly began 88to read the order of the day at York-town, on the 17th of October, 1781.

The Marquis de Lafayette’s division will mount the trenches to-morrow.

The commander in chief congratulates the allied army on the success of the enterprize last evening, against the two important redoubts on the left of the enemy’s work. He requests the Baron Viomenil who commanded the French grenadiers, and the Marquis de Lafayette, who commanded the American light infantry, to accept his warmest acknowledgments, for the excellency of their disposition, and for their own gallant conduct on the occasion; and he begs them to present his thanks to every individual officer, and to the men of their respective commands, for the spirit and rapidity with which they advanced to the points of attack assigned them, and for the admirable firmness, with which they supported themselves under the fire of the enemy, without returning a shot.

The general reflects with the highest pleasure on the confidence which the troops of the two nations must have hereafter in each other; assured of mutual support, he is convinced there is no danger, which they will not cheerfully encounter, no difficulties which they will not bravely overcome.

Prolonged applauses followed the reading of this order, and the hall was shaken by three cheers, when the company were soon brought back to sentiments of a different nature, by the plaintive voice of General Lamb, who sung a ballet composed in 1792, during the imprisonment of Lafayette in the Austrian dungeons, and which was then very popular in America.

Soon after, the lateness of the hour, and the necessity of terminating the fatigues resulting from the variety of emotions we had experienced during this festival, caused us to separate. Returning to the City Hotel, I recollected how often I had heard the order of Cincinnatus mentioned in Europe, and attacked by some persons with violence as tending to destroy republican equality; and quoted by others to justify the orders of knighthood, or privileged orders of European monarchies. However, what I had seen since my arrival in the United States, did not show the existence of any order created or tolerated by the laws, and destructive equality; but to dissipate all doubt on the subject, I made inquiries next morning of one of our friends, with whom we had dined, who called to visit General Lafayette. He presented me a small pamphlet containing an 90account of the origin and regulations of the Society of Cincinnati. A perusal of this pamphlet convinced me that the character of this society had been ignorantly or maliciously misrepresented in Europe, and that it is no more a privileged society in the United States than the Benevolent Society of Paris, or the Bible Society of England. The Society of Cincinnati is nothing more than a voluntary association of the ancient officers of the revolutionary army, united with the double object of perpetuating the memory of their patriotic labours, and for the aid of such members as age and infirmities may render necessitous; as to the ribband and badge worn by the society, it is only regarded as an ornament which the members wear exclusively on public occasions, and not as a decoration authorized or sanctioned by the government.

The Society of Cincinnati has nothing in it dangerous to equality, since it possesses no privilege. However, from all parts of the union, accusations were made that the founders of the society wished, under the guise of benevolence, and patriotic recollections, to sow the seed of a hereditary nobility. It is difficult to determine at present whether the founders, or at least some among them had, or had not some such prospective view in making the proposition; but it is certain, that the article of the regulations allowing the sons to succeed the father, were very capable of giving offence to republicans as jealous of equality as the Americans. Every one attacked with vivacity, the absurd principle of hereditary transmission, which found enemies throughout the country. Among the writings which appeared at the time on the subject, a letter of Franklin, addressed to his daughter, who had sent to him in France the papers announcing the formation of the society, which has all the piquancy and originality of that author, placed this matter in a very ridiculous light, and contains such conclusive, and at the same time, such pleasant arguments against hereditary nobility, that no one can read it without being convinced.^[11]

The sentiments of Franklin, and the opinion of the public, did not prevent the formation of the Society of Cincinnati, but reduced it to its just value; that is, every one became 91accustomed to regard this corps merely as a benevolent association, and with pleasure paid a tribute of respect to the members, who had acquired a right thereto by their former services, and personal character. But the aristocratic principle of hereditary succession was so much ridiculed that few sons ventured to succeed their fathers in the society, and in some states they are no longer admitted.

After our return to the city, our time was principally occupied in the examination of the public works and forts, which protect the port and bay of New York. The most remarkable among them is fort Lafayette, situated at the narrows, near the point of Long Island; its fire readily crosses with that from the opposite fort on Staten Island. The garrison officers belonging to a detachment of the regular army of the United States, gave the general a very cordial reception, and pointed out all the interesting particulars of the fort, which has the advantage of being bomb proof, without being exposed to the inconvenience of the cannon smoke, which finds free exit by open galleries into the interior of the yard. The rain which fell abundantly prevented us from examining the other forts with much attention.

Of all the public schools we visited, that which inspired the most lively interest was the Free School for young Africans, founded and directed by the Abolition Society. The general was accompanied in this school as he had been in all the others by a great number of ladies, who all pay assiduous attention to establishments of this sort. He was there informed he had been unanimously elected member of the society, at the same time with Granville Sharpe, and Thomas Clarkson. This election agreed well with his character and declared opinions relative to negro slavery, and appeared to excite in him considerable feeling. Immediately afterwards a black child advanced and said with vivacity, “You see, General, these hundreds of poor African children before you; they participate with the white children in the blessings of education: like them they learn to cherish the recollection of the services you have rendered to America, and moreover they revere in you an ardent friend to the emancipation of our race, and a worthy member of the society to which we owe so much gratitude.”

It would be tedious and difficult for me to give exact details 92concerning all the benevolent establishments we visited in the city of New York. They are very numerous and as each of them has been erected by an association or voluntary union of individuals, it would require a particular history of each to make them properly known. In general we may say that all these establishments are under the protection, and not under the influence of the law. The majority of the active offices are discharged by persons who receive neither perquisites nor salaries, but regard their appointments as honorable testimonials of public esteem, and they discharge their duties with a zeal and probity which justifies it. Only the inferior officers, whose time is altogether employed, commonly receive salaries. Most of these establishments are founded by societies or by legacies; and supported either by public subscriptions or by appropriations of the government. Thus for example, in examining the books of the Orphan Asylum, founded in 1806, we discovered that this establishment in the course of the year 1822, received from the legislature of the state five hundred dollars; two hundred and eighty-seven dollars as a part of the funds allowed to the public schools by the state; fourteen hundred and thirty dollars from private subscriptions; five thousand dollars, a legacy from Jacob Sherred; twenty-five dollars, the interest of a legacy from Mrs. Mary Williams; 390 dollars from anonymous donors; 17,000 dollars from the Magdalen Society; nineteen dollars for work done by the children, &c. &c. and a host of private donations, such as books, shoes, cloth, buttons, &c. &c. Whatever may be the nature and value of the donations, they are received and scrupulously registered along with the names of the donors. By the aid of these supplies judiciously directed, this house has received from 1806 to 1822, and educated 440 children, of which 243 are already established advantageously in society.

In the alms-house there are more than 1000 individuals of both sexes and all ages.

The great hospital of New York may contain nearly two thousand patients. The insane, although under the same superintendence, are kept in a separate building.

In all these institutions, we were struck with the neatness of the chambers, the whiteness of the linen, the good quality of the food, and especially with the mild and kind 93treatment of the superintendents towards the persons under their charge. It was easy to perceive that the directors are encouraged by something more precious than emoluments, public esteem.

The persons who accompanied us, and appeared to be well informed, assured us that there were more than forty charitable and philanthropic societies in New York, whose continued zeal contributed much to the support of all the establishments we had visited, as well as to the relief of private misfortunes.

After visiting the Academy of Arts, where among a great quantity of casts, engravings and paintings, there is nothing very remarkable except a collection of paintings by Trumbull, and a collection of engravings presented to the Academy by the emperor Napoleon, we went to the public library. It contains more than 20,000 volumes, well selected and in good order. The library is open every day except Sunday; none but stockholders can take out the books; the number of stockholders is about five hundred.

During our stay at New York we several times visited the two theatres, of which it would be difficult for me to give any opinion, because every time that Lafayette appeared there, he became so much the object of public attention, and the tumult caused by the expression of the pleasure of the spectators was so great that it was impossible for the actors to continue their parts; they were only allowed to sing some verses in honour of the Companion of Washington, the Captive of Olmutz, or the Guest of the Nation. Some persons of taste that I questioned informed me that the stock pieces of these theatres were from England, and generally but poorly selected, and that their companies of actors were usually feeble. These two houses are evidently too small for so numerous a population, and their construction does not correspond either to the beauty or wealth of the city of New York.^[12] The rational answer of the citizen to this, is, that before thinking of luxury and pleasure, it is necessary to take care for useful things, and that they should be very much humiliated if strangers were 94not more struck with the commodiousness and beauty of their works of public utility than with the elegance of their theatres.

On the 9th we attended a concert of sacred music given in St. Paul’s Church, where the general was received with the Marseilles’ Hymn. The number and elegance of the ladies was very remarkable. The different pieces we heard were executed with an effect which we had not previously heard from any of the choirs or orchestras in the United States; for it must be allowed that music is still in its infancy in this country. The causes are sufficiently obvious; on the one hand the English language is but slightly musical, on the other the Americans have not yet time to devote to the merely pleasing arts.—They have no school of music;^[13] there are some European artists, who endeavour to diffuse a taste for the science, but these generally find access solely to the very rich families, which are almost as rare as the artists themselves.

After leaving St. Paul’s church, we visited the park in front of the City Hall, where the firemen were drawn up in line, and the General reviewed them. After reviewing this new species of militia, but not less useful than that which is called to the defence of the territory, they defiled with as much order as a division of artillery. We saw thus pass before us forty-six engines, each drawn and escorted by a company of about thirty men, led by a captain with a speaking trumpet. Each engine bore a standard and the emblems of the company. Many of these standards were adorned with portraits of men whose names are dear to the people. The equestrian portraits of Washington and Lafayette were peculiarly conspicuous. After all the engines had defiled we ascended to the balcony of the City Hall, 95the general was addressed by the commander-in-chief of the Firemen, and we next saw the manœuvres with the engines. They were all formed into a circle around a pyramid erected of the ladders and firehooks. At the top of this pyramid was placed a small house filled with combustible materials; it was set on fire, and on a signal being given, all the engines were worked at the same time with so much accuracy of aim that the whole was extinguished in two minutes. In all thus meeting at the same point, the spouts of water formed a most beautiful liquid dome, adorned with the colours of the rainbow.

On the 10th, we were engaged to dine with Colonel Fish; we were about to go there at four o’clock, when on going out, we found the 9th regiment of artillery drawn up before the hotel to escort Lafayette to the house of his friend. At the moment the general appeared, Colonel Muir commanding the regiment, advanced and presented him in the name of his comrades, a richly wrought sword, all the parts of which had been manufactured in New York. In expressing his thanks, General Lafayette said, “it is with pleasure and gratitude I receive this precious present from a corps of citizen soldiers, each of whom knows that steel was given to men to defend liberty, where it exists, and to gain it, where it has been destroyed by crowned and privileged usurpers.” This answer was received with loud applause, and the general was escorted by the regiment and a numerous concourse of citizens to the house of Colonel Fish. The day was terminated by some beautiful fire-works in honour of Lafayette.

The next day the general and his son were present at a masonic celebration of the Knights Templars, who admitted them to their lodge, and conferred upon them the highest honours, of which they presented them the richly wrought badges. In the evening, we dined with the French residents of New York, who wished to celebrate the 47th anniversary of the battle of Brandywine. The dinner was prepared at Washington Hall, and this patriotic and family festival was marked by a character both happy and original; many Americans, who were present, were struck with astonishment. Upon the very broad table a plan of the grand canal, in relief, was exhibited, which traversing the state of New York, unites Lake Erie with the Atlantic. This 96novel sort of chart occupied a length of sixty feet upon the table, where it was hollowed out of the thickness of the wood, and lined with lead; an extremely limpid water filled the canal, which was bordered with green sod, imitating meadows, in the midst of which were models of houses, trees and animals. Bridges beautifully crossing the stream, and masses of rock under which the canal passed, and forests through which it wound along, all combined to complete this unique masterpiece of topography. Over the centre of the table was a large sun in continual rotation. Allegorical pictures, full length portraits of Washington and Lafayette, and trophies of French and American flags, completed the decorations. Mr. Monneron presided over the entertainment. After dinner, which was animated with a frank and cordial joy, a great number of toasts were drank, all impressed with that character of energetic patriotism which distinguishes every thing said or done in a truly free country. I cannot resist the desire to insert some of them here.

By the committee. “The United States; their national welfare is imperishable; it is founded upon religion, industry, and liberty.”

By the President. “General Lafayette; we are proud that he is a Frenchman.” And he added, “Gentlemen, in the fourteenth century the Lafayettes of Auvergne, already ameliorated the condition of what were at that period called vassals.

“In the fifteenth century Marshal Lafayette drove the enemies of France from her territory.

“In the sixteenth Mademoiselle Lafayette was the model of beauty, virtue and charity.

“In the seventeenth century Madam Lafayette composed works which will descend to the remotest posterity.

“In the eighteenth century, General Lafayette was born, the enemy of tyranny, and passionate lover of liberty.

“During his youth, he came to support and defend the cradle of liberty in the United States.

“At a more advanced age, he appeared at the public bar, and spoke for liberty in Europe, as he knew how to defend it in America.

“From the tribune he entered into the ranks of the defenders of the country. I have seen him amidst the revolutionary 97dangers; his genius and coolness never abandoned him: prompt to conceive, ardent to execute, he always fought for true liberty.

“I am an ocular and faithful historian. Behold these trophies, these flags and standards, upon all of them is written, Liberty! Victory! Lafayette.”

To this toast the general replied by the following, “To the memory of the French who died in the cause of true liberty, from 1789 to the present day. Their manes demand of us, that so many sacrifices should not be lost to the country.”

By M. Diaz. “The memory of Riego and the other martyrs of liberty.—Crime, not the scaffold, brings disgrace.”

By Mr. Chevrolet. “France as I wish her to be; without factious conspiracies, without corrupt ministers, without mercenary accusers, and without that slow oppression which silently undermine their energy and vigour.”

Some stanzas to Lafayette, full of grace, harmony and patriotism, the composition of Mr. Pillet, read by Mr. Chegaray, completed the enthusiasm of the guests, who separated with cries, “Long live liberty! Long live Lafayette.”

During many weeks, preparations were made in the city of New York for a magnificent festival, which should surpass in taste and splendor any thing hitherto done in honor of Lafayette. The place chosen for the occasion was the circular fort, about six hundred feet in circumference, called Castle Garden, built formerly for the defence of New York, upon a mole in front of the Battery, now devoted to public amusements. A bridge of three hundred feet long joins the fort to the battery. We were to quit New York on the 14th to make an excursion up the Hudson, and the ball at Castle Garden took place on the 13th.—We went there in the evening by the light of an illumination, we found the bridge covered with rich carpets from one end to the other, and on each side bordered with a line of beautiful green trees. In the middle of the bridge arose a pyramid sixty-five feet high, illuminated with coloured lamps, surmounted by a brilliant star in the centre of which blazed the name of Lafayette. Notwithstanding the magnificence of the entry, our surprize and admiration were strongly augmented on entering the circle of the fort. The hall, about six hundred feet in circumference, around which was 98a vast amphitheatre, containing nearly six thousand persons. An arch formed of the flags of all nations mingled with symmetry and elegance, was supported in the centre by a column sixty feet high. Over the principal entrance was a triumphal arch of flowers, surmounted by a colossal statue of Washington, resting upon two pieces of cannon. In the centre stood the genius of America, having on a shield these words, “To the Nation’s Guest.” In front of the gate raised upon a platform was a richly decorated marquee, ornamented with a bust of Hamilton; in front were two pieces of cannon taken at York-town. The marquee was intended for Lafayette. Around the hall thirteen columns, bore the arms of the first states of the confederation. This space was illuminated by a thousand torches, the brilliance of which was reflected by numerous stands of arms. When the general appeared, the air “See the conquering hero comes,” was played, and murmurs of approbation and respect accompanied him to his seat. At the same instant, the cloths which surrounded and enclosed the hall, were as rapidly raised as a theatrical scene, and the interior became visible to the eyes of the crowd, who had collected in boats about the battery, waiting for this moment. The pure and brilliant moon shone on the harbor, upon which batteaux and steam-boats were plying in every direction. A few minutes after the general was seated under the rich pavilion that had been prepared for him, a grand transparency was suddenly uncovered in front of him, and presented an exact picture of his residence at Lagrange, with its large ditches and fine gothic towers: having the following inscription below it, “Here is his home.” Lafayette was very much touched with this delicate idea of his friends, who wished to give to their entertainment, by the presence of this picture the character of a family festival. Several times during the evening, dances were attempted, but every time the general moved a step to approach them, the dancers broke off and came to group themselves around him. Time flew swiftly in this delightful assembly, and we were surprized at two o’clock to hear the signal for our departure. The steam-boat that was to convey us to Albany, approached the battery to receive us as we left the ball. We embarked with the committee which was to accompany the general, and a great number of ladies 99and citizens who were unwilling to separate from us. The boat received as many of them as possible. We parted on board with captain Allyn, of the Cadmus, who was to convey letters to our friends in France, and in spite of the darkness which succeeded to the setting of the moon, we got under weigh. We soon lost sight of Castle Garden, and instead of the joyous sounds of music, we heard nothing but the monotonous noise of the steam machinery struggling against the rapid waves of the Hudson.

Voyage upon the Hudson: Treason of Arnold: Military School at West Point: Newburgh: Poughkeepsie: Clermont: Catskill: Hudson: Albany: Troy: Return to New York.

The steam-boat James Kent, in which we were embarked, had been prepared for this trip with the greatest care by the committee appointed by the city of New York to accompany general Lafayette; but as it had not been foreseen that so many ladies designed to be of the party, it happened that the greater part of the men were obliged to sleep upon deck, although the steam-boat contained more than eighty beds. For ourselves we in vain sought repose in a very pretty state-room, which we occupied in common with general Lewis and colonel Fish. The sound of cannon which every few minutes announced our passage by some village, and the noise of our crew, who were endeavouring to push the boat off an oyster bank, upon which she had grounded during the darkness, prevented us from sleeping; at the first dawn of day, we went upon deck to enjoy the view of the majestic banks of the Hudson. In fact, nothing can be more imposing than the aspect of these high mountains, which, covered with wood, or displaying their naked rocks, border the river almost throughout its length. On entering, for the first time, into the pass of the highlands, one feels almost disposed to share the superstitious terror of the Indians, and one understands how that 100phantoms and their sinister sighings have for a long time exercised their empire, even upon the first Europeans who inhabited these situations, where nature only shows herself under strange forms, and in sombre colours. To the man who delights in the recollection of the robberies of the middle ages, and loves to contemplate the ruins of old Donjon’s ancient refuges of fierce feudalities, nothing without doubt is comparable to the banks of the Rhine; but for one who prefers nature still virgin and wild, there is nothing so beautiful as the banks of the Hudson. This river has its source in the highest country between lakes Ontario and Champlain, and divides the state of New York from north to south for the length of 250 miles: it is navigable for sloops of 24 tons, as far as Albany, 160 miles from its mouth, and larger vessels can ascend as far as the village of Hudson, at the distance of 132 miles from New York. It would be difficult, I believe, to enumerate the boats of all sorts and sizes which carry on the trade between Albany and New York; the river is continually covered with them, and you can rarely sail for a quarter of an hour without meeting with a long succession of them. The tide rises a few miles above Albany, where it is twelve hours later than at New York. The water is salt for fifty miles above Albany, where the rise of the tide is commonly one foot. At Pellpel’s islands, north of the highlands, it is about four feet, and at Kinderhook, situated twenty-two miles south of Albany, three feet.

Notwithstanding the current, and contrary movement of the tide, we advanced ten miles an hour. A group of old revolutionary soldiers gathered around Lafayette on the deck, and were pleased to repeat the details of events, which were awakened in their minds by every point on the banks. We had passed Tarrytown, and at the view of this modest village, the old soldier-citizens pronounced with respect the names of the three militia men, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van Wert, who have immortalized themselves as much by their noble disinterestedness, as for the service they rendered to their country and liberty in arresting Major André. Stony Point and fort Lafayette, where Washington, by the judicious choice of a good position, had broken the communications of the English army, were far behind us, and our captain informed 101us we should soon see West Point, when I remarked that the regards of our travelling companions were sadly turned towards a house which stood alone, not far from the bank, to which the foot of the mountain was gently inclined. I soon heard the word traitor coupled with the name of Arnold; and this house, which excited so much indignation, was actually the one in which the infamous Arnold trafficked for the blood of his companions in arms, and for the subjugation of his country. The history of Arnold teaches a great lesson; it proves once more, the importance, in a well organized government, of not trusting offices to any but men of acknowledged morality. In a captain as in a magistrate, courage or talent without probity are dangerous qualities, which cannot be employed without exposure to great risks.

Arnold was born in Connecticut, but nature appears to have denied him the virtues which so strongly characterize the inhabitants of that state; however, from the commencement he embraced the sacred cause of his country with ardour. His military talent, courage in battle, resignation and patience under fatigues and privations, and especially his brilliant services during the Canadian expedition, had gained him great reputation in the army, and the confidence of Congress, which did not think it too high a recompence to raise him to the rank of a major general. He was wounded before Quebec, and was not yet entirely recovered from his wounds, when the city of Philadelphia was entrusted to him, after it was evacuated by the British in 1778.

Unfortunately, Arnold, along with the bravery he had shown before the enemy, had nothing of that firmness of principle, and rectitude of judgment, which alone could have enabled him to resist the numerous seductions which necessarily surrounded him in the brilliant situation he now held. Urged on by pride and a ridiculous vanity, and forgetting his want of the resources of a large personal fortune, he launched into all the unnecessary expenses of a sumptuous table and luxurious train. He soon contracted debts beyond his revenue; in the hope of liquidating which he entered into speculations which his official duties forbade, and which had most disastrous results. Pushed by the demands of his creditors, he sought relief by embezzlement 102of public money; but the investigation of a committee of Congress discovered a considerable deficit in his accounts, many citizens of Philadelphia complained of his numerous exactions, and the government of Pennsylvania accused him of still more grievous offences. Finally, in the month of June 1778, Congress arrested and tried him by a court martial, which found him guilty, and condemned him to be reprimanded by the commander in chief. This sentence was approved by Congress, and carried into effect in the beginning of 1779. Furious at being thus struck at the same time by the law and public opinion, Arnold made bitter complaints against what he called the ingratitude of his fellow-citizens, and swore to be revenged.

Great importance was at that time attached to the fortress of West Point, for the preservation of which the American army had manœuvred a long time, and frequently fought. This position was regarded as the key of communication between the eastern and southern states. In fact, its situation upon the brow of one of the highest mountains on the right bank of the Hudson, and its double row of batteries and redoubts, planned by the most skilful engineers, made an excellent defensive post, the occupation of which gave great influence over the state of New York. Arnold was not ignorant of this, and cast his eyes upon this important point to wreak his vengeance. By force of intrigue and importunities, he obtained the command of West Point, at the moment he wrote to the English colonel, Robinson, that he abjured his revolutionary principles, and sincerely desired to regain the esteem of the king, by a striking proof of his penitence. This letter opened between him and sir Henry Clinton an active correspondence conducted with great secrecy. The principal object of this correspondence was to decide upon the means of throwing the fortress of West Point as speedily as possible into the hands of the English. To conduct this intrigue with greater certainty, the English general selected one of his aids, major André, a young man equally distinguished by his amiable qualities and military talents, who had already acquired an excellent reputation among his companions in arms. A sloop of war named the Vulture, carried up the Hudson as far as the King’s ferry, twelve miles below West Point: from this place his communications with Arnold became 103more frequent and easy, but for a fuller understanding, it was indispensable that they should have an interview, which Arnold insisted upon: André at first refused, either because he felt a repugnance at finding himself in contact with a traitor, or because he deemed it unworthy of a loyal officer to penetrate an enemy’s lines under a name and dress not his own. However, urged by a desire of answering the confidence of his general, he finally accepted the rendezvous, which had been proposed for the night at the house of one Joshua Smith, who was reputed to belong secretly to the English party. Smith himself came in search of major André during the night of the 21st of September, and brought him on shore in a boat rowed by his own servants. André was received by Arnold on the bank, and conducted to the house of Smith, where he remained concealed until the next night. The conference being terminated, and the plans definitively settled, André wished to profit by the darkness of the night to retire; but on coming to the shore, he found that the Vulture had been obliged to haul off, to avoid the fire of a battery with which she was threatened; the boatmen who had brought him on shore, refused to carry him to the sloop of war, and he was obliged to decide upon returning to New York by land. To hasten his march, Smith furnished him with a horse, and to render it secure, Arnold gave him a passport, under the name of John Anderson, charged with public service. This passport served him to get successfully through the American lines, and arrive at Crompond, where Smith, who had accompanied him, took leave, after giving him directions for continuing his journey. He was approaching the English lines near Tarrytown, when suddenly a militia man, who was patrolling between the two armies with two others, his comrades, rushed from behind a bush, and seized his horse by the bridle. This sudden arrest deprived André of his wonted presence of mind, and instead of presenting his passport, he asked the militia men, “to which side do you belong?” “to below,” was the reply; (the English army which occupied New York was thus designated;) “and so do I,” imprudently answered André. Scarcely had he uttered this fatal avowal, when the arrival of the two other militia men revealed to 104him his error and danger. He thought to remedy the one and escape the other, by offering to his captors a purse full of gold, his very valuable watch, and by promising them, if they would let him go, great wealth, and the protection of the English government. The more brilliant the rewards he promised, the more were the three militia men persuaded that his arrest would be serviceable to the cause of independence, and they rejected his offers with disdain, declaring that though they were very poor, all the gold upon earth would not tempt them to forego their duty, and they immediately commenced a rigorous search of their unfortunate prisoner, to discover if he conveyed any papers capable of explaining his real character. Their suspicions were confirmed by finding in his boots exact plans of the approaches and defences of West Point, and many other details in Arnold’s hand writing, confirmed their suspicions: they conveyed him to lieutenant colonel Jamieson, who commanded the outposts. André, without doubt, intending to let Arnold know that he must take care of his own safety, demanded that Arnold should be immediately informed of the arrest of his officer Anderson, on the way to New York. On the receipt of this news the traitor fled, and sought the recompence of his infamy in the ranks of the British army.

Major André declared himself a British officer as soon as he thought Arnold was in safety. The immediate return of general Washington, hastened the formation of a court martial, of which general Greene was president, and general Lafayette and Baron Steuben, were among the members. André appeared before this tribunal under the terrible accusation of being a spy. His judges treated him with great deference and lenity, and he was informed from the beginning of his trial, that he need not answer any question which could wound his conscience. But the young unfortunate, more jealous of his honour than of his life, freely avowed his projects, and exposed his conduct without concealment, taking no other pains than to exculpate those who had aided his enterprise. His courage deeply affected his judges, who could scarcely conceal their emotion in signing his condemnation. For himself he awaited his fate with resignation. His last moments 105were worthy of his noble character; the following details of which are given by an eye-witness, Dr. Thacher.^[14]

Extract from Thacher’s Journal.

“October 2d.—Major André is no more among the living. I have just witnessed his exit. It was a tragical scene of the deepest interest. During his confinement and trial, he exhibited those proud and elevated sensibilities which designate greatness and dignity of mind. Not a murmur nor a sigh ever escaped him, and the civilities and attentions bestowed on him were politely acknowledged. Having left a mother and two sisters in England, he was heard to mention them in terms of the tenderest affection, and in his letter to Sir Henry Clinton, he recommends them to his particular attention.

“The principal guard officer who was constantly in the room with the prisoner, relates that when the hour of his execution was announced to him in the morning, he received it without emotion, and while all present were affected with silent gloom, he retained a firm countenance, with calmness and composure of mind. Observing his servant enter the room in tears, he exclaimed, “leave me till you can show yourself more manly.” His breakfast being sent to him from the table of general Washington, which had been done every day of his confinement, he partook of it as usual, and having shaved and dressed himself, he placed his hat on the table and cheerfully said to the guard officers, “I am ready at any moment, gentlemen, to wait on you.” The fatal hour having arrived, a large detachment of troops was paraded, and an immense concourse of people assembled; almost all our general and field officers, excepting his excellency and his staff, were present on horseback; melancholy and gloom pervaded all ranks, and the scene was affectingly awful. I was so near during the solemn march to the fatal spot, as to observe every movement, and to participate in every emotion which the melancholy scene was calculated to produce. Major André walked from the stone house, in which 106he had been confined, between two of our subaltern officers, arm-in-arm; the eyes of the immense multitude were fixed on him, who, rising superior to the fears of death, appeared as if conscious of the dignified conduct he displayed. He betrayed no want of fortitude, but retained a complacent smile on his countenance, and politely bowed to several gentlemen whom he knew, which was respectfully returned. It was his earnest desire to be shot, as being the mode of death most conformable to the feelings of a military man, and he had indulged the hope that his request would be granted. At the moment therefore, when suddenly he came in view of the gallows, he involuntarily started backwards, and made a pause. “Why this emotion, sir,” said an officer by his side. Instantly recovering his composure, he said, “I am reconciled to my death, but I detest the mode.” While waiting and standing near the gallows, I observed some degree of trepidation; placing his foot on a stone, and rolling it over and choking in his throat as if attempting to swallow. So soon, however, as he perceived that things were in readiness, he stepped quickly into the wagon, and at this moment he appeared to shrink, but instantly elevating his head with firmness, he said, “It will be but a momentary pang,” and taking from his pocket, two white handkerchiefs, the provost marshal with one loosely pinioned his arms, and with the other, the prisoner, after taking off his hat and stock, bandaged his own eyes with perfect firmness, which melted the hearts and moistened the cheeks, not only of his servant but of the throng of spectators. The rope being appended to the gallows, he slipped the noose over his head, and adjusted it to his neck, without the assistance of the awkward executioner. Colonel Scammel now informed him that he had an opportunity to speak, if he desired it; he raised the handkerchief from his eyes and said, “I pray you to bear me witness that I meet my fate like a brave man.” The wagon being now removed from under him, he was suspended and immediately expired; it proved indeed, “but a momentary pang.” He was dressed in his royal regimentals and boots, and his remains in the same dress, were placed in an ordinary coffin, and interred at the foot of the gallows. Thus died in the bloom of life, the accomplished major André, the pride of the royal army, 107and the valued friend of Sir Henry Clinton.” [Thacher’s Military Journal, 1780, p. 272, &c.]

Some time after Arnold fled from West Point, and when he had already signalized himself by the ferocity with which he tore the bosom of his country by all the horrors of war, an American grenadier was brought into his presence who had been taken prisoner in a skirmish. Arnold recognized him as having served under his orders at West Point, and interrogated him upon the impression his flight had produced upon the garrison. The bold grenadier answered him with frankness, and did not in the least disguise the general indignation. “What would they have done, had they taken me?” “We should have buried your leg wounded before Quebec with honour, and have hung the rest of your body upon the gibbet.”

While the different groups upon our deck still execrated the memory of Arnold, and pitied the unfortunate André, the thunder of cannon a thousand times repeated by the echoes of Hudson announced our arrival at West Point. We were rapidly carried on shore in the boats. General Lafayette was received by major Thayer, commandant of the establishment, and by generals Brown and Scott, accompanied by their staff. Lafayette was placed in an open carriage, accompanied by the widow of Colonel Hamilton, and followed by a long column of ladies who had come with Mrs. H., and a numerous population which had collected to receive him: they slowly ascended the road which conducted them to the military academy. During this march, two pieces of cannon placed on the summit of a rock far above our heads, kept up an incessant roaring. When we reached the plain upon which the buildings of the institution stand, we found the cadets drawn up in line. The general immediately passed them in review, and they manœuvred before him. After their evolutions were completed, they performed the honours of the entertainment they had prepared for him, with the most kind solicitude.

West Point appears to me to be well chosen for a military school. It is upon a very beautiful plain, elevated upon the right bank of the Hudson, and crowned by other high mountains, upon the summit of which, the ruins of old Fort Putnam may still be perceived. Its separation from 108the large cities, the silence of the forest, and the aspect of nature at once so imposing and beautiful, all appear to invite to meditation and study.

The pupils are two hundred in number: vacant places are at the disposal of the President of the United States. To be admitted, the candidate must not be younger than fourteen, nor older than twenty-one; must know how to read, write and cypher, and must sign with his parent or guardian an engagement to serve during five years, unless dismissed previous to the expiration of that time. The cadets are taught natural and experimental philosophy, mathematics, chemistry and mineralogy, drawing, fortification, strategy, fencing, and the French language. All the expenses of the institution are paid out of the national treasury. Every cadet receives a pay of six dollars a month, and two rations a day. They are formed into companies, and all do duty as privates or sub-officers, and live in camp during three months of the year in order to learn camp duty. At the conclusion of their term they are commissioned in the different corps of the army when vacancies occur; but most of them return again to civil life. Government rarely refuses them this privilege when it is asked, because its object is not so much to have a nursery of soldiers in this establishment, as to form citizens capable of filling, when necessary, the first offices in the militia service, which is thus annually enriched by a number of instructed young officers.

We had the pleasure of finding among the professors, three of our countrymen, Messrs. Berard, Ducommun and Gimbrede, who took great pleasure in answering our inquiries, and who appeared to stand high in the estimation of the officers and pupils of the institution.

At six P. M., we returned to the shore to embark. A great number of our travelling companions, but particularly the ladies finding it impossible to remain longer so much crowded together in the James Kent, left us to go on board another steam-boat which was returning to New York, and we continued on our journey with the kind and amiable members of the New York committee appointed to accompany the general.

At 7 o’clock we arrived at Newburgh; we should have arrived there at 3 o’clock, but for our accident upon the 109oyster bank, and thirty thousand persons waited on the shore with the greatest impatience for the arrival of the Nation’s Guest. The tables had been set from the morning. In fact it was easy to perceive this, for our reception here was more tumultuous than any we had yet witnessed. But even this fermentation furnished us with an opportunity to judge of the influence of the magistrates over the people, who even in moments of excitement never lose that respect which citizens owe the laws to which they have freely consented. After a rapid passage by torch light through the streets of Newburgh, in an open carriage, we stopped at the Orange hotel, where we were to dine with the principal inhabitants. While we were at table, a report was spread that general Lafayette was to leave the town immediately; and a vast concourse of people gathered in front of the hotel, and a thousand confused voices cried out that it was shameful thus to snatch from the citizens of Newburgh, the friend they had so long and so ardently desired; that the darkness which covered his arrival had not allowed any one to see him; that they should have the chagrin of being unable to render him the homage with which they had prepared to receive him; and in short, that they would not let him go until after sun-rise the next day, in order that he might bestow his benediction upon the children of Newburgh. To the noise of these clamours soon was added that of the struggle between the crowd and the guard stationed at the door of the hotel. During some moments the mayor of the town who was at table with us, paid but little attention to what was going on in the street, when he was informed that the disorder might become serious, that the militia and police officers began to grow fatigued with their resistance, the mayor rose, took general Lafayette by the hand and preceded by two torches, went out into a balcony which overlooked the street. At the sight of Lafayette the shouts and plaudits increased from all quarters, when the mayor made a sign for silence, which was immediately established. He then addressed the people:—“Gentlemen! (for in America the magistrates always speak politely to the people,) do you wish to distress the Nation’s Guest?” “No! no! no!” “Do you wish that Lafayette should be deprived of his liberty, in a country indebted to him for its freedom?” 110“No! no! no!” “Then listen to what I am about to say, and do not force me to call upon the law to restore order.” The silence then became profound. “Your friend is expected at Albany, he is engaged to be there to-morrow, before evening; he has already been delayed for three hours by an unexpected accident; if you retain him here until to-morrow, you will deprive him of the pleasure of visiting all the other towns which expect him upon his passage, and you will make him break all his engagements; do you wish to give him this pain?” “No! no! no!” and the air rung with shouts and huzzas. Lafayette then addressed a few words of thanks to the crowd, which were received with the greatest enthusiasm. The people, however, became silent, but still remained in the street though without disturbing the door of the hotel. When Lafayette came down, some citizens advanced and said it depended upon him entirely to console the inhabitants of Newburgh, and it would not cost him more than the delay of a quarter of an hour—“our wives and children are collected close by in a hall which was prepared for your reception; come for an instant that they may see you, and we shall all be happy.” It was impossible to resist so touching an appeal. We entered this hall filled with ladies, and girls dressed for a ball; they had already ceased to hope that they should see Lafayette, and his presence caused them an agreeable surprise. In the fulness of their joy they all crowded near him, and showered over him the wreathes and flowers with which they were adorned. In leaving this hall we found the men all standing in a double row along the way which led to the shore, and the general could not reach the steam-boat without receiving the most endearing expressions of the esteem of these excellent people, who in spite of his assurances, still feared that they had caused him inconvenience. He bade farewell to the authorities of Newburgh on board of the boat, and at a signal given by our captain, we recommenced our voyage in spite of the darkness.

The rising sun found us in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie, where it was impossible for the general to refuse landing. The wharves and shore were crowded with soldiers, citizens, and even a great number of ladies, who had all night waited for the arrival of Lafayette.

Poughkeepsie like all the towns bordering upon the Hudson 111is both manufacturing and commercial; the population therefore is rapidly increasing. In 1820 it was 3400 souls, at present it amounts to nearly 5000.

It was at the dwelling of George Clinton in Poughkeepsie, that Washington, Hamilton, Chancellor Livingston and Mr. Jay, used to meet to discuss the constitution adopted by the United States. The general was eloquently reminded of this circumstance by colonel Livingston, who was appointed to address him in the name of his fellow citizens.

In continuing our voyage we visited the family of the ancient governor Lewis, who reside in a beautiful dwelling on the right side of the river, and at four o’clock we arrived at Clermont, where we landed in front of the elegant residence of Mr. Robert Livingston, the former residence of chancellor Livingston. The entertainments prepared for us by the citizens of the environs, and the Livingston family, detained us till the next morning.

Scarcely had we left Clermont when we came in sight of the beautiful Catskill mountain, which arising at some miles from the river, finely terminates the horizon by its beautiful brown mass which is amphitheatrically developed, in the centre of which shows forth the white house of the pine garden situated 250 feet above the level of the Hudson. This house is an object of curiosity to the traveller, and a place of promenade for the neighbouring inhabitants.

The masses of soldiers and citizens which covered a long pier projecting into the river, by their acclamations informed general Lafayette that the inhabitants of Catskill also expected a visit from the national guest. We remained a few minutes only with this population, during which the general had the satisfaction of conversing with some of his former revolutionary companions, among whom he recognized one named Foster, who had been particularly attached to his service, when he was wounded at the battle of Brandywine.

To land at the little town of Hudson, we had to cross the river somewhat obliquely; at the port, which is very commercial, we were received by the authorities and people, at the head of whom was presented a detachment of about 80 revolutionary soldiers. One of them advanced from the ranks and showed him a sword he had received 112from Lafayette at Rhode Island. “After my death it will change owners,” said he, “but its destination shall never be changed, it shall always serve in defence of liberty.”

Triumphal arches had been erected, a public entertainment prepared, and the ladies were ready for dancing, but we had to forego all these festivities, in order to arrive at Albany the same day, where the general was expected with impatience. The inhabitants of Hudson perfectly comprehended his situation, and had the kindness to detain him but for a very short time.

The wealth of Hudson is daily increased by its commerce and manufactures. The population which in 1820 was not quite 3000 souls, at present amounts to 5000. The town is regular and well built; it arises in an amphitheatre about an hundred feet above the level of the river. The largest commercial vessels may lie at its wharves. Its environs are strongly marked with an agreeable aspect, and are well cultivated. Hudson was founded in 1784, and still contains many descendants of the Hollanders who came over in 1636.

In spite of the power of our steam engine, which enabled us to ascend the river at the rate of six miles an hour, it was five o’clock P. M. before we reached Overslaugh a small town situated upon the left bank of the river, a short distance from Albany. Here we were obliged to suspend our voyage, as the steam-boat drew too much water. We landed, and were immediately placed in an elegant barouche surrounded by an escort of dragoons, commanded by general Van Rensellaer and colonel Cooper, and in a few minutes we arrived at Greenbush, another village, in the centre of which we found a triumphal arch, beneath which some refreshments were presented, while the members of the corporation addressed the general, who answered them with that facility and appropriateness, which at least four or five times a day, caused the surprise and admiration of those who heard him.

It was not until night that we arrived in front of Albany, upon the banks of the river, which it was necessary we should cross to enter the city, which stands upon the right bank. A large team-boat called “Horses Back,” received both our carriages at the same time, drawn by four horses each, about thirty of the light-horsemen of the escort, and 113more than a hundred foot passengers, and bore us quickly to the other shore, which rung with the acclamations of the multitude, and the incessant thunder of artillery. The situation in which we were placed was grand and majestic; the obscurity of the night rendered it still more imposing; but it was not without its dangers. Every discharge of cannon, by its report and sudden light, startled the mettled horses which surrounded us, and which had no other barrier before them than a slight chain, that could not have hindered them from leaping into the river, if they had not been held by powerful men. George Lafayette’s filial solicitude for his father, caused him to quit the carriage, and take upon himself the securing of the horses which drew the general. At the moment of our landing the multitude redoubled their cries of joy; the escort and carriages sprung rapidly on shore, amidst so thick a crowd, that it is difficult to conceive how so many people, whom the enthusiasm of gratitude had urged upon the very wheels of Lafayette’s carriage, could escape uninjured. At the entrance of the suburb a procession was formed in order; a band of musicians led the march, and we went to the capitol through the principal streets, all of which were rendered light by innumerable illuminations, and high pyramids of blazing wood. At the entrance of the street leading to the capitol, was an arch of triumph, upon which was perched a large living eagle, which flapped its wings as the general passed, as if to render him homage.

We entered the senate chamber of the capitol. The galleries were filled with a great number of ladies. The municipality were assembled there. The general was received and addressed by the mayor, who eloquently expressed the gratitude of the United States, and especially of the city of Albany, “those who have shared with you the toils of our revolution, and who still live,” said he, “hail you as a friend and brother. The generation which has arisen since you quitted these shores, is animated with the same sentiments, and those which shall be born in future ages, will celebrate in you the benefactor of America, the hero of liberty. In each of the hearts which beat around you, you hold the place of friendship, and your eulogy is in all mouths.”

In his reply Lafayette could not avoid expressing his 114astonishment at the numerous changes which had taken place in the aspect of every thing at present offered to his view. “It is not a half century, since the town, then ancient, it is true, but still very small, served me for head quarters, upon the frontier of a vast wilderness. I received here, as commandant of the northern departments, the renunciation of the royal power and the acknowledgement of the more legitimate sovereignty of the people of the United States. At present I find Albany a rich and powerful city, the central seat of government of the state of New York, and the surrounding wilds changed into fertile and well cultivated plains. The present generation is already distinguished by two glorious wars, and still more by its sincere attachment to the institutions whose excellence assures it an incontestible superiority over the haughty power, which wished to arrogate over it the right of control.”

From the senate chamber we went to the apartments of governor Yates, who, surrounded by his staff, received the general with great cordiality and addressed him in the name of the state.

In leaving the governor, the general was conducted to the principal balcony of the capitol to be presented to the assembled people. At the moment he advanced between the two central columns of the balcony, an eagle descended and placed a crown of laurels and evergreens upon his head. This was loudly applauded by the numerous spectators.

Before going to the hotel, which had been prepared for our reception, the general wished to visit one of his old companions in arms, Mr. Matthew Gregory, who, in the assault at Yorktown, was one of the first to mount the trenches, with him and Hamilton. We found there a numerous company, composed of judges of the supreme court, the bar and principal officers of the state.

This day of emotions and fatigues, under which a man less robust than Lafayette must have sunk, was terminated by a supper in which toasts were drank to the health of the “Nation’s Guest,” and “to the liberty and sovereignty of the people,” and by a brilliant ball, which we left at midnight in order to seek a little rest.

Albany was founded in 1612, by a colony from Holland, 115and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the most ancient settlement in the United States. Situated on the right bank of the Hudson, 150 miles from New York, this city does not present a pleasing aspect: the ground is every where unequal: the streets, it is true, are wide and regular, but the architecture of the houses is in bad taste and reminds one strongly of the old towns in Germany. With the exception of the capitol there is no building which has a monumental aspect; this building produces a very good effect, being situated upon an eminence which terminates a fine street called State street. This edifice which serves for the senate, house of representatives, the courts of justice, the society of arts, of agriculture, and also contains the library, is constructed of granite from the banks of the Hudson, and the columns, as well as all the exterior ornaments are in fine white marble from the quarries of Massachusetts. The principal façade is of the Ionic order. Most of the halls are decorated and furnished with a luxury which one at first admires, but cannot in the end avoid blaming, when it is known that it has brought the corporation into debts which necessarily fall upon the people. The entire expense of the building amounted to 120,000 dollars, of which at least 34,000 have been paid by the city.

The town house, academy, Lancastrian school, arsenal, prison, and some other buildings of public utility are properly and commodiously built of brick.

The city is governed by a corporation composed of a mayor, recorder, and ten aldermen, and ten assistant aldermen, all appointed by the people. To simplify the administration and facilitate the superintendence of the police, it is divided into five sections or wards. The watchmen are especially charged to guard against the dangers of fire, and an excellent organization of firemen, secure prompt assistance in cases of conflagration. These precautions are rendered particularly necessary by the presence of numerous magazines of oil and spirits, imprudently established in the heart of the city.

The police regulations are enforced with a rigidity which allows no class of citizens to think of infringing them with impunity. Among a multitude of examples related to me, the following is very remarkable. It is expressly forbidden to gallop through the streets. A short 116time since, the mayor was at his country seat, not far from the city. Suddenly the ringing of bells and even the sight of the flames informed him that a fire had broken out; he mounted his horse and set out for town, through which he gallopped to the fire; alighted, and placed himself at the head of the firemen. In a few instants his example and prudent advice, contributed to remove the danger, and he quietly returned to his dwelling. The next morning he received a summons to appear before a justice of the peace, who fined him for breaking the ordinance which forbids gallopping through the streets. The mayor did not in any way attempt to justify his fault by the motive that had caused him to commit it, and submitted without murmuring to the award, which he acknowleged to be just. This submission to the law was a good example, and on going out of the magistrate’s office, he was met by a numerous deputation of citizens, who presented him with the thanks of the public for the eminent services he had rendered the preceding evening, in courageously exposing himself to save the property of his fellow citizens.

The annual expenses of the city amount to about 45,000 dollars; its revenues in 1824 were valued at 49,000, but its debt amounted to more than two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. This debt which necessarily depreciates the value of property situated in Albany, was incurred by the prodigality of former administrations. It is thought that it will speedily be extinguished by a sinking fund of a hundred thousand dollars, and especially by the resources which are daily presented by the constantly increasing prosperity of commerce.

As a commercial place, Albany is one of the most considerable cities in the union. Ever since its foundation it has been the place of deposit for all the western produce; at present the facility of communication with lake Erie by means of the Grand canal gives a still greater increase to its commercial preponderance.

About twenty-four steam-boats ply incessantly between Albany and New York, and the number of sloops that trade between the two cities is very considerable.

In 1820 the population of Albany was 12,630 souls; it is at present 16,000.

On the morning of the 18th September, at 8 A.M. De 117Witt Clinton with a large number of citizens visited general Lafayette’s apartments, to present him in the name of the literary and philosophical society of New York with a diploma, constituting him a member of that society. On this occasion Mr. Clinton pronounced an elegant discourse which affected the general more, as coming from an orator who was the son and nephew of two distinguished men, with whom he had been intimately connected during the war of Independence. During this short ceremony a numerous procession was formed in front of our hotel, and at nine o’clock we embarked amidst the thundering of cannon, upon the canal which leads to Troy. Five handsome canal boats had been prepared for our voyage. The first carried a band of musicians; general Lafayette was in the second, with governor Yates, the ex-governors Lewis and Clinton, the mayor and city council, and some of the principal citizens of Albany. In the three last followed the escort commanded by major Coles, composed of an artillery company and three companies of infantry. We stopped a few minutes on the way to visit the Gibbonsville arsenal, belonging to the United States. This arsenal, one of the most considerable and best provided in the union, was founded in 1813, under the direction of colonel Bumford of the artillery, actually attached to the department of war, and completed by major Dalliba of the same corps, who has introduced into it a system of administration remarkable for its order and economy. At his entrance into the court of the arsenal the general was received by the officers of the post, and saluted by the discharge of three pieces of cannon taken at York-town. We remarked among the pieces of artillery, some French pieces presented by France to the United States during the revolutionary war; and all the camp equipage taken with general Burgoyne at Saratoga. We visited all the armouries, which are kept with remarkable care and elegance. We found there more than 30,000 muskets made after the best European models, as well as a large number of well made pistols and sabres. The powder magazine is also well provided.

Before mid-day we arrived at a point where the canal communicates with the Hudson opposite to Troy. At the sight of this town, which at present contains 8000 inhabitants, 118and which in commercial importance, is next to Albany in the state of New York, general Lafayette was struck with astonishment. “What!” cried he, “this town has arisen as by enchantment!” “No,” answered some one near him, “but it has been created and peopled in a few years, by industry protected by liberty.” The general then informed us that when in 1778, he crossed the Hudson at the same point, with a part of the army he commanded, there was then but two or three little cabins on the spot, in one of which, with some difficulty, he procured a cup of milk, and some corn bread. While he was giving us these interesting details our boat descended to the river, where a dozen decorated boats towed us across to Troy.

Landing in the midst of the numerous population which crowded the shore, the general was received by a committee appointed to express to him the sentiments of gratitude and attachment of the citizens. “Your indefatigable devotion to the cause of civil and religious liberty,” said the speaker, “has rendered your name illustrious wherever the rights of man are respected and honoured. The liberation of this country was an act worthy of the patriots by whose councils and arms it was consummated. Their toils, privations and sacrifices, and still more particularly your generous efforts, have impressed the hearts of the citizens of these states with a profound sentiment of gratitude which is increased daily by the development of an unexampled prosperity, and the benefits of the wisest institutions. May you long enjoy among us the fruits of your glorious labours. These fruits you may gather in the form of our government which guarantees to us, order and liberty; in our legal system which at the same time secures public peace and private rights; in our public schools, which bestows upon the poor as well as the rich, the benefits of a good education, in the change of our vast deserts into fertile fields; in the origin, increase, and multiplication of our cities, towns, and villages; in the creation of numerous means of communication to facilitate our commercial relations; in the variety and harmony of our different religious sects; finally you will gather the fruits of your labours and of those of our revolutionary patriots, in the spirit of enterprise and industry of a frugal people, 119content with their condition, obedient to the laws, at peace with themselves and the whole world, and lifting their grateful voices first towards God, and then to their benefactors, at the head of which your virtues and generous services place you.”

Unanimous applause, and the cry a thousand times repeated, of “Welcome! Welcome! Lafayette,” followed this speech, and the answer of Lafayette. He was immediately after raised in the arms of the people and placed in an open carriage, accompanied by colonel Lane, who fought with him at Brandywine, Monmouth, and York-Town. The procession, preceded by the Masonic Lodge, and followed by numerous corps of soldiers, passed through the streets of the town, amid the shouts of joy of a free and grateful people. While we were at breakfast in the house, from the balcony of which we had seen the troops of the town and adjacent country defile before us, the general received a message from the ladies of Troy, who invited him to visit the young ladies’ boarding school, where they were collected to receive him. He accepted the invitation with eagerness. The avenues to this establishment, directed by Mrs. Willard, were decorated with green branches and flowers, and terminated near the house in a triumphal arch, under which he was received by a committee of five ladies, headed by Mrs. Pawling, who in a few words elegantly expressed the patriotic sentiments of the ladies of Troy, and their tender gratitude to the illustrious benefactor of their beloved country. He was conducted by this committee into the interior of the establishment, where no other man went with him, and some moments after, we heard the pure and angelic voices of the young girls repeating in chorus, “To visit us thou hast left thy beloved family in a distant land, but be not afflicted; art thou not here in thy country? Behold how many of the daughters of Columbia are proud and happy to salute thee by the tender name of father.”

The general soon returned from the house; his features exhibiting profound emotion, and his eyes swimming in tears. He slowly descended the steps surrounded and supported by the principal ladies of the institution. Two hundred young girls followed him, clothed in white, harmoniously raising to heaven their grateful voices. They 120accompanied him to the outer gate where they took a tender leave of him, in the presence of several thousand spectators, whom this scene kept plunged in reverential silence.

General Lafayette was unwilling to quit Troy without paying some private visits to different persons of his intimate acquaintance, and particularly to Mrs. Taylor, with whose family he was connected during the revolution. Mrs. Taylor is a young lady much distinguished by her talents, and the information which she acquired at the institution we had just visited. We found at her house a very pretty cabinet of mineralogy, remarkable for its richness and order. She presented to the general as a remembrance of Troy, a beautiful herbarium containing more than two hundred of the most remarkable plants of the vicinity, collected, arranged and described by herself.

After these visits, we slowly left the town, in the midst of the population covering the road by which we had to reach the Hudson. Every one pushed towards the carriage and wished to shake hands with Lafayette. Fathers raised their children above the crowd that they might get a better view of him, and ask his benediction. At the moment we crossed the river, three cheers and a salute of artillery expressed the farewell and last wishes of this rich and happy city.

The town of Troy is situated upon the left bank of the Hudson, six miles from Albany, a little above tide water, and in a somewhat extensive and very fertile plain of alluvial formation. The river at this place is still more than 800 feet wide. Sixty sloops belonging to the inhabitants of this town, are employed in commerce, which does not prevent other vessels from finding occupation. The exportations of grain especially are very considerable.

Upon all the water courses falling into the river, and upon the river itself, are a great number of furnaces in full activity, rolling, slitting, and casting iron, and lead. The most considerable of these establishments is that of Adamsville. The principal building which contains the nail factory, has twenty-four machines for cutting and heading nails; they are all put in motion by an enormous wheel, turned by the force of the stream. This establishment manufactures a thousand tons of iron annually.

About two miles from Adamsville is a fine cotton manufactory, 121which has constantly 1700 spindles in action, moved by thirty machines turned by water. Near at hand is a bleaching ground for cotton cloths, where the bleaching is done by a chemical process for one or two cents a yard.

Tanneries, potteries, paper making, soap making, and lumber yards surround this city on all sides, which in 1786 did not exist; which in 1801 was nothing but a small village; did not acquire the distinction of city until 1816, and in 1820 was ravaged by a fire, the damages of which amounted to more than 360,000 dollars! In the sixty days following this catastrophe, the insurance company faithfully fulfilled its engagements, amounting to 110,000 dollars; and in a short time the burnt buildings were replaced by others more elegantly, more commodiously, and durably constructed. At present the city daily increases according to a regular plan; all the streets are large, right-lined, and furnished with fine pavements.

The inhabitants of Troy are not less remarkable for their love for letters and science, than for their activity and intelligent industry. They have in the city three periodical journals, four printing-offices, five considerable libraries, and a great number of public schools.

Troy also possesses many other sources of happiness and prosperity, concerning which out short stay in this city prevented me from obtaining positive information. It appears that the canal works for facilitating commerce are worthy of particular attention. But perhaps I shall have an opportunity of returning to this subject, as we expect to visit the greater part of the canals in the state of New York.

I remarked, with pleasure that the black population, which is not very numerous, (about 300) freely united their wishes for the Nation’s Guest, with the white people. At present there are scarcely thirty slaves in the city; from 1827 liberty will no longer have to blush in the presence of coloured men!

In returning to Albany, whither we went back by land, we visited governor Yates and De Witt Clinton, who was also governor of the state in 1817 and 1818. The latter, who has already passed through a long and brilliant political career, is destined, unless I am deceived, to play an important part in the affairs of his country. He has already 122successively been secretary to his uncle George Clinton, member of the New York legislature; senator of the United States; thrice mayor of New York; member of the committee of internal navigation; president of the canal board; lieutenant governor, and then governor of the state; many benevolent institutions owe their existence to him; he is member of almost all the scientific societies, and I shall not be surprised to hear his name one day, among the candidates for the presidency of the United States. He is at present 55 years old. It is difficult to find a man of more imposing figure, or of a nobler countenance. Every one agrees that his ruling passion is to augment the good of his fellow creatures. These are his titles of recommendation to a nation that knows well how to reward those who devote themselves to her service.^[15]

It was very late when we left Albany: we came out of the city as we entered it by the light of bonfires, and went on board the steam-boat Kent at the place where we first landed. A few moments after we began to redescend the Hudson for New York, where we arrived at day-break on Monday, after a navigation of thirty-six hours, only interrupted by the short visits we made to Newburg, West Point, &c.

Streets of New York: Drunkenness: Prostitution: Lotteries: Hospitality: Bankruptcy: Women and young girls: Luxury: Hotels: Police: Anecdote: number of passengers arriving at New York from 1818 till 1819.

On returning from our voyage up the Hudson, general Lafayette expressed his desire to enjoy the calm of private life, that he might consecrate some moments to the kind intimacy which a great number of his old friends demanded. In consequence public entertainments were suspended, the citizens resumed their usual occupations; and I had leisure 123to examine with advantage the customs and physiognomy of the people of this great city, which until now I had only beheld in gala dress.

My first excursion had naturally for object to visit the whole length of Broadway, which is the bazar of American industry, as it is of the productions of all the world. Its length of about three miles, the width of the side walks, solidly constructed and flagged with broad stones, the elegance of the buildings, the richness and variety of its stores, and the ever active crowd by which it is enlivened, makes this beautiful street, one of the most interesting objects for the traveller, who has time for observation. A single circumstance renders it unpleasant, in my opinion, which is that the immense grave yard of Trinity church is separated from the streets by nothing but an iron railing. This view contrasts in a painful manner with the gay groups of young ladies, continually passing lightly along by this sad receptacle of the dead. I am astonished that the wisdom of the corporation of New York, which has done so much for the improvement and health of the city, has not yet thought of removing this focus of putrid exhalations, which in some seasons of the year may become fatal to the whole population.^[16]

The greater number of the streets which open into Broadway, are also very clean and regular; but those running in the vicinity of the wharves are commonly disagreeable enough. There are a great many dirty and badly built frame houses, which serve as retreats for drunkenness and debauchery. Drunkenness produces frightful ravages, and annually plunges a great number of victims into the prisons and hospitals. A vast number of crimes and diseases have no other cause. The extreme facility with which the poorest wretches acquire money, the low price of spirituous liquors, which pay no duty, and perhaps also the excessive heat of the climate, are without doubt the principal causes of this disgusting passion. It is said that New York contains more than three thousand grog-shops, in which are annually retailed at least three millions of dollars worth of wine and strong liquors. This appears a 124frightful amount when compared with that of the population.

Prostitution is less common here than one would suppose, in a large commercial city constantly thronged with strangers and sailors. There are not more than three thousand public women, which is scarcely a sixtieth part of the population. This would be a very small proportion for Paris, and especially for London, where these unfortunates commonly form a twentieth of the population. If we seek for the causes of this great difference, it will be found principally in the early and frequent marriages of the inhabitants. Men usually marry here, from the age of twenty to twenty-five, and the women from sixteen to twenty. Moreover the marriageable age is not determined by law, neither is there any law by which parents are authorized to prevent the marriages of their children. The religious ceremony alone constitutes the act of marriage, and difference of sect never prevents a minister of another persuasion from bestowing the nuptial benediction upon those who ask it of him. Always sure of obtaining the means of support for himself and companion, the young American is never deterred by considerations of fortune to determine his choice which is almost always according to his feelings. Hence there are fewer single men in society, and consequently fewer causes of corruption. A third scourge more terrible than drunkenness or prostitution, extends its ravages through the city of New York, and daily taints the public morals: I wish to speak of those bottomless gulfs, which swallow indiscriminately the wealth of the rich merchant, and the savings of the poor labourer: which are the wreck of so many long-tried good characters, and which in exchange for the money which is paid them, make no other return but disgrace and misery—In short I mean the Lottery Offices.

The laws of the state of New York forbid the establishment of new lotteries, but the legislature have thought it right to respect those already existing, because they have been founded in virtue of privileges anterior to the constitution. Is not this respect for an evil consecrated by time, a culpable weakness? Some persons with whom I have spoken, have answered that the lotteries of New York do not produce as much immorality as those of Europe, because 125their product does not go to the treasury of the government, but in the support of the hospitals; nor are they as dangerous to the working classes, because the high price of tickets render them only accessible to the rich. These arguments appear to me to be very weak, and by no means reconciled me to the lotteries.

Of all the cities in the United States, New York is certainly the one in which society has lost most of the national character. The great number of foreigners which incessantly flow into it, is a continually operating cause. However we still find there some principal, strongly marked features, which preserve in its physiognomy the character of nationality. One of these features is hospitality. A single letter of recommendation here suffices to give strangers an entrance into the most distinguished society, and if their character and conduct correspond honorably to the kindness which every one is disposed to show them, it is easy for them in a short time to derive therefrom both pleasure and profit. Unfortunately many show themselves unworthy of this kind reception, and I can scarcely comprehend how, after so many unfortunate experiments the New Yorkers can expose themselves again voluntarily to have their generous hospitality returned by fraud, treachery or calumny. It is not rare to find Europeans, who, when interrogated on the character of the Americans, answer with effrontery, “They are all corrupt, hypocritical egotists.” If we take the trouble to examine the conduct of those who accuse with so much asperity we are altogether astounded to discover that one dare not appear in presence of a certain individual, because he has been long in his debt, is insolvent and unworthy; and that another received at first with confidence into a particular family, has been turned out of doors for having attempted the basest seduction; and in short, that a third is at present an object of public contempt, having at first conciliated public opinion under the mask of virtues, which he was totally incapable of exercising. It would be easy for me to prove my assertion and name some of these wretches: but it would be far more agreeable to me, if I did not fear to wound their feelings, to name Messrs. P. B. M. G. &c. who by their intelligence have secured themselves an honourable existence, and by the nobleness of their characters 126have preserved the French name from the contempt into which it would otherwise have been plunged by so many adventurers.

Among so many calumnies diffused by ignorant and malevolent travellers, there are some disagreeable truths concerning which it would be weakness to remain silent. Thus, I shall not pass by the numerous bankruptcies which at New York, as in all the large commercial cities of the union, inflict as severe injuries upon public morals as upon that confidence and security which commerce every where demands, as a basis indispensable to its existence and prosperity. A faithless man is not withheld in his commercial dealings by any restrictive law, and it must be confessed that the justice of public opinion is not always sufficiently severe. However, for some years past the correct and upright part of the commercial society of New York, forming an immense majority, have raised their voice powerfully to ask of congress a law which shall secure to the creditors of a broken merchant, an equal right to share in the dividend of what he gives up, and to prevent a merchant who finds his affairs embarrassed, from assigning before-hand, all that he possesses for the payment of a few confidential friends, who have lent him their names and money, by the aid of which they have betrayed the confidence of the public. Congress has not been deaf to the chamber of commerce of New York and many other cities; it has already carefully examined into the possibility of making a law which shall repress these terrible abuses, without interfering with the absolute liberty essential to the existence of commerce. The difficulties have appeared great to the legislators, but not insurmountable. Much is expected from their conscientious and enlightened zeal.

The ladies here dress in the French taste, but their manners are still entirely American; that is, they devote almost their whole existence to the management of the household, and the education of their children. They generally live much retired, and although many of them possess very agreeable and excellent powers of conversation, they do not however occupy much attention in society, where the young ladies appear to have the exclusive right of reigning. These latter, it is true, have from nature and education, 127all the means of pleasing. The unlimited liberty they enjoy, without ever abusing it, gives a grace and frankness to their manners, and a modest ease, which is sought in vain in our companies, where, under the name of reserve, the most painful insignificance is imposed upon our young ladies.

The American ladies are not more remarkable for their severe conjugal fidelity, than the girls are for their constancy to their engagements. At parties I have often had pointed out to me young ladies of eighteen or nineteen, who had been engaged, and of whose future husbands, one was in Europe pursuing his studies; another in China, attending to commercial business, and a third dangerously employed in the whale fishery, in the most distant seas. Young girls thus engaged, hold the middle place in society between their still disengaged companions and the married ladies. They have already lost some of the thoughtless gaiety of the former, and assumed a slight tinge of the gravity of the other. The numerous aspirants, designated here by the name of beaux, which at first surrounded them, and were received until a choice was made, still bestow upon them delicate attentions, but by no means so particular as formerly, and should one of them, either from ignorance or obstinate hopes, persist in offering his heart and hand, the answer “I am engaged,” given with a sweet frankness and an indulgent smile, soon destroys all his illusions, without wounding his pride. Engagements of this sort, preceding marriage, are very common, not only in New York, but throughout the United States; and it is exceedingly rare that they are not fulfilled with religious fidelity. Public opinion is very severe on this point, and does not spare either of the two parties which may dispose of themselves without the consent of the other.

Persons who think republican principles incompatible with the enjoyments procurable by wealth, will find the luxury of New York excessive, and may suppose that a people which treads upon the richest English carpets; which profusely pours into gold and crystal, the most delicate wines of France, and runs after pleasure in elegant carriages, cannot long continue their independence. Such persons might with reason be frightened, if luxury here, like that of our princes and courtiers of Europe, 128sprung from the oppression and toils of the people; but they may comfort themselves by reflecting that this luxury is the offspring of industry, the rich and fruitful daughter of liberty.

If luxury have invaded the dwelling of the banker; if she be seated at the table of the manufacturer, or penetrated even to the cabinet of the man of science, she has not yet crossed the thresholds of the hotels. Nothing can be more simple, nothing can be more modest, I might almost say more incommodious than the boarding-houses of New York, and indeed of all the other cities of the union. The bed-rooms are commonly large halls, containing seven or eight beds, placed not more than three or four feet apart, in which travellers go to rest at night, and quit them very early in the morning. Every one dresses and undresses himself in silence, and as it were in public, as there are neither screens nor curtains to conceal the business of the toilet. Three meals are offered daily to the boarders; in the morning at 8 o’clock, breakfast, composed commonly of bread and butter, eggs, fish, smoked meats, with tea and coffee for beverage: the dinner is amply supplied with large pieces of boiled and roast meat, accompanied by some pastry, and a few unseasoned vegetables; the whole washed down by a large quantity of wines, and other liquors; supper is exactly like the breakfast. These meals are always announced at fixed hours by the ringing of a bell, at the sound of which the boarders move with precipitation to seat themselves at table, at which, with still greater precipitation they take their food, and nothing is heard but the clattering of knives, forks, and dishes, as conversation is rarely carried on between persons entirely unacquainted, unless they have been introduced to each other by a common acquaintance. The parlour, or hall, which the inmates frequent in the intervals of the meals, is commonly a great compensation for the community of the bed-chambers, and the silent precipitation of the dining-room. Here one finds the newspapers; sometimes a piano, and often a select society, the honours of which are almost always gracefully done by the lady of the house, whose education and manners differ essentially from those of boarding-house keepers in Europe. It is especially in the relations of host and hostess, with the guests, that the 129feeling of equality which here animates all ranks, displays itself with all its force, and it is not in the least degree more affected by the act of receiving than that of paying money. Servility and arrogance are as uncommon in the boarding-houses of New York as they are said to be frequent in those of London. The mean price of boarding and lodging in New York is about a dollar and a half per day. No deductions are ever made for meals of which the boarder may not have partaken.

Although New York is a very extensive city, containing a numerous population, and annually receiving at least 30,000 foreigners, great disorders are unknown to it, and the slightest crimes but rarely escape the vigilance of the police, which is not less surprising for its activity than for the quietness of its proceedings; from the perfect order which reigns by day and night, it appears to be every where present, and yet it is no where seen in operation. The security which it guarantees to strangers, as to citizens, is not as at Paris the result of the odious combination of assassin soldiers and disgusting spies; the traveller is not obliged on entering to declare his name, rank and business to obtain the protection due to all; in short, after having resided for some time in New York, one is forced to admit that its government, like a good genius, makes its benign influence every where felt, without allowing itself to be any where seen.

Europeans for a long time accustomed to submit to one man or several men, who under the name of government, trammel at their pleasure the exercise of the natural rights of other men, their subjects, with difficulty conceive of a nation, in which all individuals without exception may travel in every direction and for the greatest distances, enter all cities and sleep tranquilly in all the inns, without being obliged to carry with them that ridiculous and tyrannical permission of the government written upon a scrap of paper, called a passport. This unbounded liberty of travelling in all directions causes them a surprise which sometimes amounts to incredulity. The following anecdote which is warranted as true, is a pleasant proof of the foregoing assertion.

Proscribed in 1815 by the restoration, General C. had been obliged to quit Paris precipitately, and seek an asylum 130near Havre with a friend, whence he hoped to have an opportunity of passing without danger to some land less inimical to him than his country. An opportunity was soon offered; an American ship captain moved by his sad situation, willingly received him on board and conveyed him to the United States. The joy which General C. experienced at being out of the reach of danger, was the sentiment which at first entirely absorbed him; he forgot that he was flying, perhaps forever, his country, family and friends; the vast ocean and the coming thirty days which separated him from New York, gave him a security, which was not disturbed but by the sight of the new land whose hospitality he came to seek. He then remembered with affright, that he had left Paris so precipitately, that he had not brought a paper with him. Without authentic documents, without a passport, what was to become of him. However, he landed and the custom house officer who questioned him politely as to the contents of his portmanteau, caused him a degree of fear he had never before felt, except when his master the Emperor Napoleon looked at him with an air of dissatisfaction; at the end of a few minutes the custom house officer allowed him to proceed without demanding his passport! doubtless it must have been through inadvertancy, by which he resolved to profit. Our general officer much lighter by half, had his baggage speedily conveyed by a porter to one of the hotels in Broadway; there a servant received him and shewed him into a chamber containing four or five beds, on several of which were lying articles which indicated that they had been taken possession of; he inquired with uneasiness if he could not have a private room. There was but one which contained two beds, which was given him, with a promise that no one else should be introduced there. Once alone, he breathed more freely, and thanked his happy star that he had so fortunately passed so many dangers. The next packet from Havre would bring him letters of credit; he could then make himself known and obtain protection. It was then only necessary to avoid being arrested as an adventuring vagabond or suspected person, to pass fifteen days in his retreat, and to this he was resigned. He had already passed three days in his solitary confinement, when on the morning of the fourth day, his landlord presented himself and with an air of politeness 131without obtrusion, and of interest without curiosity, said “I am not naturally indiscreet sir, nor am I in the habit of troubling my guests with impertinent questions, but I fear that the severe seclusion to which you appear to have condemned yourself since you have been in my house is provoked by chagrin or by some unfortunate embarrassment, and I come to offer you without ceremony my services, which I wish you to accept in the same manner.” The simple and cordial manner in which this was said, encouraged our poor hermit. “You appear to be a good man,” said he to his host, “and I will confide in you; my situation is unfortunate, as you shall judge.” Then casting an uneasy glance around the chamber and lowering his voice, continued, “I am a French officer, forced in consequence of the great events which you know to have happened, to quit my country, and to seek a refuge from proscription. The Americans and their government are hospitable I know, but here, as well as every where else, the police which watches over the safety of the citizens, demand without doubt that strangers shall make themselves known, and how can I do it, as I have not even a passport? How can I then obtain permission to reside in this city, or to go to another? You offer your assistance; be then my security to the police, that I may reside in and move about without interruption, and my gratitude shall be unbounded.” From this disclosure and the agitation which accompanied it, the American thought the French officer must be mad, and he would have remained in this belief, if the other had not explained to him the indispensable importance and necessity of a passport to a traveller in Europe. He then hastened to quiet his fears by saying, “that the authority which governs us emanates from ourselves, and we have not been so senseless as to give it the absurd power of paralyzing our most natural faculties, as those of going in any direction, or as far as we please. Foreigners landing on our soil are allowed to enjoy all their faculties, which do not interfere with the rights of other men. Go then wherever you wish, from Labrador to the Gulf of Mexico, from the Atlantic Ocean to Lake Huron, or remain an inhabitant of New York, and I guarantee you the most perfect security, the most absolute liberty.” The general could scarcely believe the assertion, but experience soon convinced him, and in his first excursions he was less struck by the beauties 132of nature and the aspect of an entirely new country, than by the happiness of not being obliged at the entry of every town, or at every change of horses, to show his passport to a police officer.

The movement of the port of New York is one of the most animated and varied pictures that can be imagined. Scarce a half hour elapses without a ship quitting or arriving at the wharves. The wharves are constantly covered by groups of travellers arriving or departing; the variety of their dresses and languages prove that there are few parts of the globe with which the United States have not intercourse. In the midst of the crowd which is animated by various sentiments of surprise or regret, it is easy to distinguish the Americans by their calm, I might almost say their indifference, on returning to or quitting their natal soil, and their friends which accompany them to, or receive them on the shore. Accustomed from infancy to compare together the vast distances which separate the different points of their country, the American is less affected at the moment of sailing from New York to China, than a citizen of Paris would be in going to view the sea at Dieppe. We may perceive the facility with which Americans travel abroad, by glancing at the tables of the number of passengers landed at the different ports of the union: we shall find that the citizens of the United States form a prodigious proportion, in the ratio of their population.

The following table which contains the number of passengers landed at the single port of New York from March 1st 1818, to the 11th of December, 1819, will enable one to judge approximatively of the proportion of passengers which each nation furnishes to the travellers of the United States.

Americans	16,628
English	7,629
Irish	6,067
Scotch	1,492
French	930
Belgians	590
Germans	499
Swiss	372
Spaniards	217
Hollanders	155
Italians	103
Danes	97
Portuguese	54
Prussians	48
Swedes	28
Africans	5
Sardinians	3
Norwegians	3

133

141

159

171

Departure for Yorktown: Washington’s tomb: Celebration of the anniversary of the surrender of Yorktown: Details of its siege in 1781.

The Virginia militia had long since expressed their desire to general Lafayette, of having him present at the celebration of the anniversary of the capture of Yorktown, on the very soil where this great event occurred, which, in terminating the revolutionary war, forever secured the independence of the United States. To accept this honourable invitation, general Lafayette left Washington the 16th of October, crossed the Potomac upon a wooden bridge nearly a mile long, and was received upon the Virginia side by a corps of troops, under command of general Jones. His march to Alexandria, and his entry into that city, were marked by the continual thunder of artillery, placed along the road, and by the acclamations of the people. We dined and slept at Alexandria. As we were sitting down to table with all the magistrates, and a great number of citizens, Mr. Adams, the secretary of state, informed us of the death of the king of France, Louis the eighteenth.

On the 17th, we embarked in the steam-boat Petersburg, in company with the secretary of war, Mr. Calhoun, generals Macomb, Jones, and a great number of other officers 181and citizens. After a voyage of two hours, the guns of fort Washington announced that we were approaching the last abode of the father of his country. At this solemn signal, to which the military band accompanying us responded by plaintive strains, we went on deck, and the venerable soil of Mount Vernon was before us; at this view an involuntary and spontaneous movement made us kneel. We landed in boats, and trod upon the ground so often worn by the feet of Washington. A carriage received general Lafayette, and the other visitors silently ascended the precipitous path which conducted to the solitary habitation of Mount Vernon. In re-entering beneath this hospitable roof, which had sheltered him when the reign of terror tore him violently from his country and family, George Lafayette felt his heart sink within him, at no more finding him whose paternal care had softened his misfortunes, whose example and wise counsel inspired his youthful mind with those generous sentiments which at present render him an example of good citizenship, a model to parents and husbands, the most devoted of sons, the most stable of friends. His father again sought with emotion for every thing which reminded him of the companion of his glorious toils.

Three nephews of general Washington took Lafayette, his son, and myself, to conduct us to the tomb of their uncle; our numerous companions remained in the house; in a few minutes after, the cannon of the fort, thundering anew, announced that Lafayette rendered homage to the ashes of Washington. Simple and modest as he was during life, the tomb of the citizen-hero is scarcely perceived amid the sombre cypresses by which it is surrounded: a vault slightly elevated and sodded over, a wooden door without inscriptions, some withered and some green garlands, indicate to the traveller who visits this spot, the place where rest in peace the puissant arms which broke the chains of his country. As we approached, the door was opened; Lafayette descended alone into the vault, and a few minutes after re-appeared, with his eyes overflowing with tears. He took his son and me by the hand, and led us into the tomb, where by a sign he indicated the coffin of his paternal friend, along side of which was that of his companion in life, united to him forever in the grave. We knelt reverentially near his coffin, which we respectfully 182saluted with our lips; rising, we threw ourselves into the arms of Lafayette, and mingled our tears with his.

In leaving the vault, we were met by the three nephews of Washington: one of them, Mr. Custis, presented general Lafayette with a gold ring, containing some of the hair of the great man, and we returned to the house where our companions awaited us. An hour was devoted to visiting the house and grounds, which at present belong to a nephew of Washington, who bears the same name, and is one of the judges of the supreme court of the United States. He has made no alteration in the property left him by his uncle, for whose memory he entertains the most profound and tender respect. George Lafayette assured us that every thing in the house was as he saw it twenty-eight years ago. He found in the place where Washington himself had left it, the principal key of the bastile, which was sent him by Lafayette, at the time this monument of despotism was destroyed. The note sent with the key is still carefully preserved.

The situation of Mount Vernon, upon the right bank of the Potomac, is very picturesque, and is seen to a great distance from this majestic river. The house is small, very plain, and surrounded by fine trees. The tomb is about two hundred paces from the house.

After resting a few moments, we resumed the path leading to the shore: our march was silent; each of us bore a branch of cypress, cut from over the tomb of Washington. We resembled a bereaved family, who had entombed a beloved father, recently dead. We were already on board our vessel—and the waves had borne us afar, and no one had interrupted our silent meditation. At last Mount Vernon disappeared behind the high and winding banks of the river; all then grouped themselves on the quarter deck of the steam-boat, and listened attentively till evening to Lafayette, who talked of Washington.

Soon after leaving Mount Vernon we met the steam-boat Potomac, having on board a volunteer company from Fredericksburgh, commanded by captain Crutchfield, and a great number of passengers who came to meet general Lafayette. The two boats after exchanging salutes, sailed in company during the night, and arrived next day at noon at the mouth of York river, where were five other boats, 183which ascended the river with us to Yorktown. We delayed a moment in front of a point marked for our landing, and at a signal given by the artillery on shore, we debarked in boats commanded by captain Elliot. The general was received on shore by the Yorktown committee, the governor of Virginia and council, the chief justice of the United States, John Marshall, and numerous officers of the army. The upper banks of the river were covered with a crowd of ladies from great distances, and its waters offered an entirely picturesque view from the number, variety and disposition of the vessels with which it was covered. After having replied to the addresses of Mr. Leigh, president of the committee, and to that of the governor of Virginia, general Lafayette was conducted amid the acclamations of the people, to the head quarters prepared for him. It was in the very house that Cornwallis inhabited during the siege of Yorktown, forty-three years previous.

Yorktown, which has never recovered from the disasters of the revolutionary war, because its unhealthy situation prevented the access of new inhabitants, appeared from its actual condition very properly adapted to the celebration which was to take place on the following day: houses in ruins, blackened by fire, or pierced by bullets; the ground covered with fragments of arms, the broken shells, and overturned gun-carriages; tents grouped or scattered according to the nature of the ground; small platoons of soldiers placed at various points, all in a word, conveyed the idea of a camp hastily formed near a village taken and occupied after an obstinate battle. The manner in which we were lodged, tended to keep up the illusion; a single bed was prepared for general Lafayette; all who accompanied him, officers, generals, and the governor, placed themselves at random on mattresses or straw, in the half open and unfurnished apartments. During the night sixty officers formed a volunteer company, to guard the head quarters, around which they were bivouacked. We were awaked at day-break on the 19th, by the cannon thundering from the plain, calling all the surrounding troops to arms. General Lafayette, accompanied by the committee of arrangement, went to Washington’s marquee, which had travelled with us, and was erected at some distance from the head quarters: there he received the different corps of officers from the surrounding regiments. During 184this presentation we were witness to the most affecting scenes: two old revolutionary soldiers fainted away in shaking hands with the general. The appearance of colonel Lewis who presented himself in the dress of a Virginian mountaineer, and asked permission to address Lafayette on behalf of his county, attracted great attention.

As soon as colonel Lewis had finished this discourse, which was much applauded by the auditors, the general kindly took his hand into his own, thanked him affectionately, and begged him to express all his gratitude to the mountaineers of Virginia, whose excellent and numerous services rendered during the revolution, he rapidly enumerated.

At eleven o’clock the troops approached the head quarters near which they formed two columns, and some moments after they marched to conduct general Lafayette under a triumphal arch erected over the situation of the English redoubt which he formerly carried, at the head of the American troops he commanded during the siege of Yorktown. His march now took place through a double row of ladies whose vivid joy and elegant costume singularly contrasted with the warlike arrangements around us. He was received under the triumphal arch by general Taylor who after the different corps had taken the places assigned them, and silence was established among the surrounding crowd, commenced an eloquent address, in which he developed the motives of American enthusiasm and gratitude, towards Lafayette.

General Lafayette was profoundly moved, and his emotion was still more augmented by the enthusiasm with which the last words of the orator were received by the people. However, always governed by that modesty which so strongly characterizes him, he immediately removed the wreath which had been placed upon his head, and turning to colonel Fish, one of the officers who valiantly seconded him in the attack upon the redoubt; “take it,” said he, “this wreath belongs to you also, preserve it as a deposit for which we must account to our comrades.” Then addressing general Taylor, he returned his thanks, thus:

“I am happy to receive such honourable evidences of friendship from my ancient companions in arms, in the place where the American and French arms were so gloriously united in a holy alliance in favour of 185American independence, and the sacred principle of the sovereignty of the people. I am happy also to be thus received on the very place where my dear comrades of the light infantry acquired one of their most honorable rights to the love and esteem of their fellow-citizens.” He finished by paying a tribute of gratitude to the officers who directed the attack upon the redoubt, and among them named Hamilton, Gimat, Lawrence, Fish, and added that it was in their name, in the name of the light infantry, and only in common with them, that he accepted the proffered wreath.

After this ceremony all the troops defiled before Lafayette, and we returned to Yorktown, where we passed the rest of the day in festivity. A circumstance of considerable piquancy augmented the interest of this patriotic and military celebration: I have already stated that General Lafayette on arriving at Yorktown, established his head quarters in the same house in which Cornwallis had his, forty-three years before. Some servants, in examining the cellars, in order to put away the refreshments and provisions conveniently, discovered in an obscure corner a large chest; its weight and apparent antiquity excited their curiosity; they opened it, and to their great astonishment found it filled with candles, blackened by time: by an inscription on the lid it was found that they formed part of Cornwallis’s stores during the siege. They immediately made it known in the house, and the intelligence speedily reached the camp. Shortly after all the candles were removed, lighted and arranged in a circle, in the centre of the camp, where the ladies and soldiers danced during the evening. A ball in York-town in 1824 by the light of Cornwallis’s candles, appeared so pleasant an occurrence to our old revolutionary soldiers, that notwithstanding their great age, and the fatigues of the day, most of them were unwilling to retire until the candles were entirely consumed.

Although more than half the night was passed before we could retire to rest, the desire of attentively considering the place in which American independence was secured by a decisive victory, did not permit me to waste much time in sleep. I awoke just at dawn of day, and reached the ruins of the ancient entrenchments of the town as the first rays of the sun fell upon the temporary encampment of the militia, which they had already abandoned; I saw a part of 186the troops going on board of vessels, which were preparing to leave the shore, while the decreasing sounds of the drum behind the forest, which begins at a short distance from the town, indicated the route of those detachments which sought their homes by land. Although every thing around me offered an exact and piquant scene of war, my attention was not long withheld from my principal object, and I soon began to reconnoitre the situation of the town, the exterior works and the position of the two armies, whose holy alliance had secured the independence of a young nation, and the rights of man on the American continent. Notwithstanding some gardens, and the useless efforts of the plough to fertilize some spots of a soil consisting almost entirely of sterile sand, I could easily find the trace of the fortification of the town, which describes an arc whose chord was formed by York river, which in this place is large and navigable even for frigates; but I had much difficulty in recognising the exterior works. However by the aid of a plan of the siege, I pursued my researches, when I remarked a man seated at the foot of a small pyramid, and who appeared to be plunged in profound meditation. On this pyramid is inscribed in large letters, the names of Viomenil, Rochambeau, Lauzun, St. Simon, Dumas, in short of all the principal officers of the French corps who had fought and conquered at York-town. While I read again and again with satisfaction the glorious names which will remind remotest posterity of the honourable part France took in the struggle of American liberty against British tyranny, the old man rose; I saluted him, and we soon entered into conversation relative to the objects which appeared to interest us equally. He informed me that he had served with Lafayette during the campaign of Virginia, and the siege of York-town; that having lived for forty years since on a farm but a few miles distant, he had not passed an anniversary since the capture of York-town, without coming to the spot, and paying the tribute of his regrets to his ancient comrades, and of gratitude to the French nation. “Since,” said he, “you appear to take so much interest in the details of this event, in which I had the good fortune to take an active part, let us ascend together this point of a bastion, which remains standing among all these ruins, whence we can take in the plan of operations at a glance, and I can 187make myself better understood.” After the old soldier had looked around to collect his recollections, we sat down together, with our backs toward the town, and in front of us the plain, which the besieging army occupied. “You know,” said he, “how Cornwallis, after a campaign of six months, was driven by the young Lafayette, from post to post through Virginia, to shut himself up in York-town, whence he could only escape by laying down his arms. I shall therefore commence my recital from the period when Lafayette by establishing himself at Williamsburg, rendered it impossible for Cornwallis to escape.”

“In the early part of September, Cornwallis attempted to reconnoitre our position, but judging that it would be impossible to force it, and knowing that all retreat by sea was cut off by the French fleet under Count de Grasse, determined to run the chances of a siege, and endeavoured to fortify himself as well as he could. We all thought, that profiting by the enthusiasm which our late successes had excited in the army, Lafayette would not give his adversary time to prepare himself, but would lead us at once to a final victory. But the young general on this occasion manifested a moderation perhaps still more admirable than his bravery and talents; neither the solicitations of his officers, who pressed him not to lose this opportunity of winning new laurels, by striking the last blow at the English army, nor the offers of Admiral De Grasse, who through M. De St. Simon offered him the support of the marines, and even a part of the crews of his thirty-eight vessels, could determine him to attempt any thing before the arrival of the allied army commanded by Washington and Rochambeau. “When great interests are in question,” answered he, “I shall never prefer the gratification of self-love, to the certainty of a assured success,” and he waited to the end with a patience which would have excited surprise even in an old captain.

“On the 13th Washington and Rochambeau arrived at our camp, and on the 17th went on board the Ville de Paris to concert with Count de Grasse the measures necessary to render the French fleet tributary to the success of the enterprize. On the 26th and 28th all the combined forces were united, and we marched to invest York-town, which was accomplished without the loss of a single man. The French corps commanded by Rochambeau, occupied the 188space between the river and a marsh which is nearly in front of us, but which is now masked by some trees and ravines, under shelter of which, without risk, we could approach within pistol-shot of the enemy’s works. The Grenadiers and Chasseurs of the advanced guard of this army was commanded by Viomenil. Next morning the American army passed the same marsh, established its left there, and placed its right below upon York river. The investment of the place was thus as close and complete as possible. The legion of Lauzun, a corps of cavalry, and a half brigade of American militia, took post at Gloucester on the other side of the river, where they could only establish themselves after dislodging Tarleton, who occupied it with 400 horse and 200 infantry.

“During the night of the 29th and 30th, the enemy dreading to be attacked by a coup-de-main in the very extensive position he had fortified, resolved to abandon his camp at Pidgeon hill, and to retain only two redoubts in front of the body of the place. The day of the 30th was employed by us in occupying the works abandoned by the enemy, which enabled us to enclose him within a narrower circle, and gave us the greatest advantages. From this moment we opened our trenches, and a noble emulation was established between our allies and us. Although we were very young soldiers and inexperienced in the operations of a siege, we had the satisfaction of meriting the praise of the French, who agreed that our zeal and intelligence made us worthy of being associated with veteran troops.

“Messrs. Duportail and de Querenet superintended the works as chiefs of Engineers. M. D’Aboville commanded the French artillery, and General Knox the American. Notwithstanding the enemy’s fire, the trenches were rapidly advanced. On the 9th, three batteries were ready to play upon the town. General Washington himself fired the first gun, and at this signal we commenced a furious cannonade, which the enemy answered with great vigour. On the 10th a red-hot shot fired from a French battery at the little English squadron stationed in the river, set fire to a ship of 44 guns and two other smaller vessels. This conflagration which commenced in the evening and continued till late at night, presented a terrible and magic spectacle. The devouring flames which blazed in tall columns up the 189masts, threw a lurid light upon all our batteries, and seemed to lend us their light to facilitate their destruction.—The battle only ceased when the cessation of the conflagration left us in darkness.

“On the 14th, the English possessed no other external works but two large redoubts, on the situation of one of which Lafayette yesterday received the civic wreath; the other much more to the right, precisely where the pyramid is raised, at whose base we first met. Washington resolved to take them, and all the 14th and part of the 15th was employed in cannonading them to destroy the abattis which defended the approaches, and facilitate the storm. During this cannonade Washington and Rochambeau, on foot, surrounded by the officers of the staff, remained as near as possible to the enemy’s works, to judge better of the effects of our batteries, and caused the whole army to admire their calm intrepidity. Rochambeau, to calm the impatient ardor of Viomenil, who thought they were burning powder uselessly, and that the moment was arrived for the assault, descended alone into the ravine which separated him from the enemy, tranquilly mounted the opposite side, entered the abattis within pistol-shot of the English batteries, and returned to assure Viomenil coolly that the abattis was not sufficiently destroyed, and he must wait until the parapet was more levelled, in order that his grenadiers should be exposed as little time as possible. At length the enemy’s fire began to slacken, and Washington judged the moment favorable for the assault. Lafayette at the head of the American light infantry was charged with the attack of the redoubt on the left of the beseiged, and Viomenil, at the head of the French grenadiers with the left. Lafayette thought correctly that to carry entrenchments defended by experienced soldiers with young troops, he could only count on the audacity and rapidity of the attack; in consequence he had all the arms of his division discharged, formed it in column, and led it himself, sword in hand, at full speed across the abattis, and in spite of the enemy’s fire entered the redoubt, of which he was soon master with the loss of but few men. He immediately sent his aid, Barbour, to Viomenil to inform him he was in his redoubt, and inquire where he was. The aid-de-camp found the French general at the head of his column of grenadiers, waiting patiently under 190arms, under the terrible fire of the enemy until his sappers had methodically prepared a path across the abattis. “Tell Lafayette,” said Viomenil, “that I am not yet in mine, but will be there in five minutes,” and in fact within five minutes, his troops entered the redoubt by beat of drum, and in as good order as if on parade. This action displayed in the strongest manner the discipline, bravery and coolness of the French grenadiers, but cost them a considerable number of killed and wounded. As soon as we were masters of the two redoubts, we established there good lodgments which were connected with the second parallel, and new batteries were constructed, which completed the enclosure of Cornwallis’s army, and battered effectually the interior of the place in a very destructive manner.

“During the night of the 15–16th, the enemy made a sortie of 600 picked troops, commanded by Abercrombie, who met with resistance from all our redoubts, but succeeded in deceiving the French post of the second parallel, by presenting themselves as Americans, and by the aid of this manœuvre gained and spiked a battery of four pieces. Chevalier Chastellux arriving immediately with his reserve, forced the British to retreat precipitately. Thanks to the care of General Aboville, commanding the French artillery, the four badly spiked pieces were ready to be used in six hours afterwards.

“It appeared that this sortie was intended to cover the retreat of Cornwallis and his army. In fact we learned soon after, that general Cornwallis had resolved to leave his sick and baggage, cross the river during the night, attack the troops which occupied Gloucester unexpectedly, and after routing them, to force his way by land even to New York. The plan was a bold one, and worthy of such a man as Cornwallis. His boats were all in readiness, and part of his troops had already landed on the opposite side of the river, when a violent tempest suddenly coming on, rendered it impossible for him to continue his operations. He esteemed himself very fortunate in getting his troops back to York-town, before the daylight betrayed his secret. He then perceived there was no longer a hope of escape for him, and on the 7th he demanded a parley. The negociations continued until the 19th: they were conducted by the American colonel Laurens, whose father was a prisoner 191in England, and the Viscount de Noailles. The capitulation specified that Cornwallis and his army should be prisoners of war; that the troops should defile with shouldered arms, with flags rolled up, and drums beating an English or German march, and that they should ground their arms on the glacis, in face of the allied armies. This capitulation was ratified by the general in chief, and at noon detachments of the allied troops occupied the principal posts. When the British came out of the city to defile before us, we were ranged in two lines, the Americans on the right, and the French on the left; at the extremity of both lines were all our general officers. In the midst of them, the beloved Washington was conspicuous, from his great height and beautiful charger, which he managed with inimitable grace. At the moment when the head of the column appeared, all eyes sought Cornwallis, who being detained by indisposition, was represented by General O’Hara. The latter either through mistake or determination, offered his sword to General Rochambeau, who by a sign pointed out General Washington, and said, that the French army being only auxiliary, it was from the American general that he should receive orders. O’Hara appeared piqued, and advanced towards Washington, who received him with a noble generosity. It was evident to us that the English in their misfortune were especially mortified to be obliged to lay down their arms before Americans, for the officers and soldiers affected to turn their heads towards the French line. Lafayette perceived this, and revenged himself in a very pleasant manner. He ordered the music of the light infantry to strike up yankee doodle, an air which the British applied to a song composed to ridicule the Americans at the beginning of the war, and which they uniformly sung to all their prisoners. This pleasantry of Lafayette was so bitter to them, that many of them broke their arms in a rage in grounding them on the glacis. Cornwallis himself participated in their weakness of self-love, which made them blush to be conquered by those they chose to consider as rebels, rather than as citizens armed in defence of their rights. The day after the capitulation, being amid the allied generals who came to visit him, he affected in speaking of Lafayette always to separate his glory from that of the Americans. “I determined more willingly to surrender,” 192said he, addressing our young general, “as I knew that the French were associated with the Americans, and their character assured me of an humane and honourable treatment for my army.” “What,” replied Fayette, “has your lordship so soon forgotten that we Americans are also humane to captive armies?” This answer which alluded to the taking of Burgoyne’s army by the Americans, some time previous, prevented Cornwallis from returning to the subject. You see,” said the old soldier, whom I had not once ventured to interrupt, during his recital, so strongly was I interested, “that Lafayette was on all occasions a strong and ardent friend; he was not contented to serve our cause by his counsels and sword in her battles, but he defended our character and reputation, when they were unjustly attacked, and identifying himself with us, rendered himself as it were bondsman for all our actions. Moreover the English who affected so much contempt for us, ought at least to have talked less of humanity, as they every day outraged this virtue by the most horrible actions. We should never forget that during this campaign of Virginia, so glorious for our arms and fortunate for our independence, fire, pillage and murder accompanied them through our towns and villages; frequently they massacred their prisoners in cold blood after battle, and, in short, during the seige of York-town, despairing to conquer us by force of arms, they attempted to poison us, by sending among us more than an hundred unfortunate negroes, affected with the small-pox, and which our pity succoured at the foot of their ramparts.

“But why dwell so long upon the crimes of a tyranny we have destroyed, and which half a century of happiness and liberty, should efface from our memory!—Have I not moreover a much more pleasant task to accomplish in speaking of the rights which the French army and its virtuous leaders have acquired to American gratitude by their courage and generosity.” He then related to me with emotion a number of incidents, which proved that there never was a better disciplined army, nor understood their duties as allies better, than this little French army, and I ought to add that this evidence of an old American soldier, speaking as it were in presence of the facts he cited, is not the only one I collected during our journey. Every where, even to the smallest villages, which were formerly occupied by the 193French army, I heard its severe discipline, its profound respect to propriety, patience under fatigues, courage in battle and moderation in victory, highly praised; and I avow that this eulogium on the noble conduct of my countrymen always made my heart beat with a delightful emotion. Why then, does the French restoration of 1815, (which, to attach to its colours, glorious recollections, or to cause to be forgotten the warlike prodigies of the tri-colored cockade, incessantly invokes the standard of Henry IV, which was only distinguished in civil wars, or of Louis XIV, whose banners were merely witness to useless victories or devastating retreats,) not claim as a legitimate heritage a part of the glory of the War of American Independence? Was it not under this White flag that Rochambeau’s grenadiers marched to the capture of Yorktown? Was it not under the banners of legitimacy that our navy immortalized itself in securing the freedom of a young nation by the dispersion of the English fleets? Or does the restoration spurn the glory because it was acquired to the advantage of Liberty? I know not; but what is certain, is, that while we were celebrating the anniversary of the capture of Yorktown, the French squadron commanded by Admiral —— which was then lying in Hampton roads, where they might hear the acclamations of American gratitude for French benefits, remained coldly strangers to a festival which ought to have been regarded as a family celebration by both nations. However, we are satisfied that this inexplicable indifference or repugnance, was not participated in by a majority of the officers or crews. Of the officers some privately came on shore and in citizen’s dress, were witness to this patriotic scene, in which the Americans would have speedily assigned them a distinguished place, if they had been permitted to present themselves in their proper uniform.

When I returned to the headquarters, I found our travelling companions very much occupied with this question, and many of them affirmed that the French admiral would not have acted thus unless he had received instructions on the subject from a superior authority.

194

Masonic Entertainment: Journey to Petersburg: Visit to Mr. Jefferson: his mansion: plantation: slaves: Montpelier: Mr. Madison: Religious Liberty: Return to Washington by Orange Court House and Fredericksburg.

Among the splendid festivities prepared by the citizens of Richmond for the National Guest, the particular description of which I am obliged to forego, there was one I must speak of, as affording an idea of free-masonry in the United States; an institution, for whose persecution the Inquisition has so often lighted its faggots in Spain and Italy, and which some European governments do not tolerate at the present day, without repugnance.

On Saturday, the 30th October, after having been introduced with the accustomed ceremonies into the Masonic Temple, where the members of the various lodges of Richmond were collected, we marched forth in grand procession, to go to a fraternal banquet prepared at a hotel in the other end of the city. The procession, consisting of more than three hundred persons, moved in the following order:—

211A detachment of brethren with drawn swords, preceded the march. After this detachment came a band of musicians, playing American and French national airs, among which the Marseilles hymn was not forgotten. Behind the music marched two long files of brethren of the lower degrees, and between these two files, all the grand dignitaries of the society, carrying in the centre a bible, placed on a rich velvet cushion embroidered with gold, and surrounded by masonic symbols. Among the grand dignitaries, the governor of Virginia, chief justice Marshall, and many other officers of state, were conspicuous. All the brethren wore the badges of their degrees, and their variety presented a truly original picture. All the streets we passed through were crowded with spectators, who by their attitude and silence, expressed the respect inspired by this ceremony. Before taking our places at table, a protestant clergyman belonging to the masonic order, pronounced a discourse, in which he reminded us that true masonry reposed on truth, equality, and charity, and that to fulfil our duties as masons, was, in other words, to discharge our duties towards God and man. He concluded his discourse by blessing our repast, which was commenced with much gravity, but concluded amidst those bursts of frank and hearty merriment so distinctive of the inhabitants of Virginia. A great number of patriotic toasts were drank by the guests; that of general Lafayette was enthusiastically received. It was as follows—“Liberty, Equality, Philanthropy, the true masonic symbol. May the practice of these principles always secure us the esteem of our friends, and the dislike of the enemies of the human race.”

After the entertainment we resumed our rout to the temple with the same ceremonies, and in the same order observed in coming to the hotel; we returned to spend the evening gaily in the company of a numerous society collected at our dwelling.

On leaving Richmond general Lafayette expected to pay a visit to his old and good friend, the ex-president, Jefferson, but a pressing invitation from the citizens of Petersburg, caused a slight change in his plan. He resolved first to attend to this invitation, and then to return to Richmond, and set out thence for Monticello. Nearly six hours were occupied in traversing the woody and 212sandy road from Richmond to Petersburg, which is not more than twenty-five miles. While on the way, some of our escort pointed out an old frame church, which had been occupied by Lafayette, as his head quarters during the campaign of Virginia, when he manœuvred on this ground to prevent the junction of Cornwallis with general Phillips. In approaching the town general Lafayette recognised the position whence he cannonaded and burnt Petersburg, in order to dislodge the British, who had entered by so rapid a march that he could not prevent it. The details of this part of the campaign of Virginia are briefly and clearly related in Marshall’s excellent Life of Washington.

The twenty-four hours passed by general Lafayette among the citizens of Petersburg, were signalized by great variety of pleasures; in passing through the streets the inhabitants with much glee made him remark how much the town had gained by being burnt by him in 1781. “At that time,” said they, “we had none but miserable wooden houses to receive you in, and now there are large well built brick dwellings, in which we can offer you all the comforts of life.”

Petersburg has in fact an agreeable aspect, which declares the prosperity of its inhabitants. It is a pretty small town, containing about 7000 inhabitants, built on the southeast bank of the Appomatox river, which is navigable from this place to its confluence with James river, for vessels of sixty tons. All the products of the south of Virginia, and most of those of North Carolina, have no other outlet but Petersburg. The commerce of this place is, consequently, considerable in tobacco and flour, which is in great part, manufactured at the numerous mills situated near the town, below the falls of Appomatox.

After returning to Richmond, we rested for forty-eight hours, and then set out for Monticello, distant eighty miles, accompanied by the volunteer cavalry of Richmond, and a deputation of the committee of arrangement. The first night we slept at Milton, a small town, half way to our place of destination; there a great many planters of the vicinity had assembled to offer a patriotic entertainment to Lafayette. The next morning at the time of starting, I was so severely indisposed, that I could not leave my room; 213it was thought I was threatened with a bilious fever, a disease very common in Virginia at this time of the year, and frequently fatal.—However, a cup of tea and two hour’s sleep restored me so far, that I was able to continue my journey in the carriage. Notwithstanding all my entreaties, Mr. George Lafayette had left the company, and remained with me; an evidence of his kindness, I shall never forget. We arrived at Monticello, a short time after general Lafayette. We found Mr. Jefferson still deeply affected by the pleasure of having embraced his ancient friend. He received us amidst his numerous family, with an amenity which instantly dissipated the timidity, which I could not help feeling on my first approach to a man who had performed so much for the human race.

When one recollects how much the life of Jefferson was occupied, and useful to his fellow creatures, one feels penetrated with a deep veneration for him, but to this sentiment is soon added that of confidence and friendship, when we have lived a few days near him. It is difficult to find a man of more agreeable and instructive conversation: endowed with a memory which readily reconveyed him amidst all the events of his life; familiar with most of the arts and sciences, his conversation could easily satisfy all the demands of a mind desirous of instruction.

Thomas Jefferson was born at Chadwell, in Albemarle county, Virginia, on the 2d of April, 1743; he was educated at Williamsburg college, and devoted his early years to the study of the law. The advantageous situation in which he was placed by the considerable fortune left him by his father, Peter Jefferson, one of the oldest settlers, and still more the elevation of his mind and character, soon caused him to be sent to the legislature of Virginia, by which he was sent in 1775, as its representative to the continental congress. He was not long in obtaining a great reputation amidst that august assembly, which in 1776, adopted his draft of the Declaration of Independence, a composition not less remarkable for the depth of its thought, than for the clearness, dignity, and energy of its style, of itself sufficient to immortalize the author. But Jefferson could not stop at so glorious an opening of his political career; he must traverse the whole course with the same step, and on his way, still find means of paying 214tribute to the sciences and arts, which he never neglected. Successively legislator, governor of Virginia, representative, minister plenipotentiary, secretary of state, vice president of the United States, he passed during twenty-five years through all the high public offices, to arrive at the first magistracy of the republic. His election, which occurred in 1801, in opposition to John Adams, was regarded as the triumph of the democratic over the federal party; then, as at all times, the vanquished party exhaled its rage in outcries, murmurs, and incendiary pamphlets. The newspapers, which were its organs, declaimed incessantly against the new president, and against all the persons who aided him to suppress unnecessary offices; reduce the army to what was strictly necessary, and to give to the constitution that steady movement which agrees so well with the simplicity of its conception. But Jefferson contemned these idle clamours, and did not remit the work of reform and amelioration he had undertaken. In vain the mistaken zeal of his friends urged him to recur to a law repressive of the abuses of the press: he repelled their dangerous suggestions. “I am happy,” he replied, “in this continual censure which the papers exercise against my administration, because among all the violence dictated by passion, some truth may be found and I shall profit by it. Moreover, a government whose acts are all done in public, whose members live amidst their fellow citizens, to whom all their words are addressed, and under the eyes of whom all their measures are executed, has nothing but bad conduct to fear.” Sublime and severe lesson by which European governments might well profit!

So much wisdom and firmness was not to pass unrewarded in a correctly thinking nation: Jefferson was re-elected president in 1805. Among the remarkable circumstances which signalized his administration, was the acquisition of Louisiana in 1803, which was very advantageous to the United States.

In 1809 he returned to private life, and sought repose in his retreat of Monticello; there at the summit of a mountain, which towers far above the fertile and smiling valley, under a simple roof, but in good taste, raised under his direction, and we may almost say, by his own hands, amidst his children and grand-children, by whom he is idolized, he still devotes all his time and faculties to the amelioration 215and happiness of his race.^[20] Through his efforts, Charlotteville has beheld her university erected, richly endowed, and already containing a great number of pupils. In another year this establishment will be for the southern and western states, what Cambridge is to those of the north, a fruitful source of improvement, whence the youth may obtain the knowledge and principles requisite to the formation of good citizens.

The hospitality of Mr. Jefferson is proverbial, his house is constantly open, not only to numerous visitors from the neighbourhood, but also to all the foreign travellers who were attracted by curiosity or the very natural desire of seeing and conversing with the sage of Monticello. The dwelling is built in the figure of an irregular octagon, with porticoes at the east and west, and peristyles on the north and south. Its extent comprising the peristyles and porticoes is about 110 feet by 90; the exterior is in the Doric order, and surmounted by balustrades. The interior of the house is ornamented in the different orders of architecture, except the composite; the vestibule is Ionic; the dining room Doric, the drawing room Corinthian, and the dome Attic. The chambers are ornamented in the different forms of these orders in true proportion as given by Palladio. Throughout this delightful dwelling are to be found proofs of the good taste of the proprietor, and of his enlightened love for the arts. His parlour is ornamented by a beautiful collection of paintings, among which we remarked with pleasure an ascension by Poussin, a holy family by Raphael; a flagellation of Christ by Rubens, and a crucifixion by Guido. In the dining room were four beautiful busts; of Washington, Franklin, Lafayette and Paul Jones. There are also some other fine pieces of sculpture in different parts of the house. The library without being extensive is well selected; but what especially excites the curiosity of visitors is the rich museum situated at the entrance of the house. This extensive and excellent collection consists of offensive and defensive arms, dresses, ornaments and utensils of different savage tribes of North America. Mr. Trist, son-in-law of Mrs. Randolph, daughter of Mr. Jefferson, an amiable and enlightened gentleman, pointed out to me the arms 216which had belonged to Tecumseh; they are not especially remarkable, as to form or materials, but one cannot help regarding them with interest when the extraordinary character of their former owner is known.

Tecumseh, born among the Chippewa Indians, on the frontiers of Canada, was the chief of his nation, and his courage and talent acquired for him an immense influence over the neighbouring tribes. This child of nature was born with the impress of grandeur; a body of perfect symmetry, and a most imposing aspect, contained the soul of a hero, and one might affirm that if he had come into existence amidst the lights of civilization, his vast intelligence would soon have assigned him a place among the first men of his age. For a long time he secretly nourished the hope of opposing an insurmountable barrier to the constantly increasing power of the whites; to this end he had during several years visited nearly all the Indian tribes to induce them to enter into the league he wished to form. His persuasive and forceful eloquence had secured him numerous partisans; already he saw at no distant period, the epoch in which by raising the tomahawk against the whites he should regenerate his brethren, when suddenly the war broke out between the United States and England. Tecumseh was rejoiced at this occurrence, because in his opinion it favoured his projects, since it would hasten the destruction of his enemies by their own hands. At first he resolved to remain an inactive spectator, but soon changed his views; it appeared to him a wiser policy first to aid in the destruction of the strongest, in order to have afterwards none but the weakest to attack; and he willingly yielded to the solicitations of the English, who eagerly sought his alliance. He was then 40 years old; from his youth he had taken part in all the engagements against the whites, and still no one could reproach him with one of those cruel actions so common to his compatriots in the intoxication of victory. He abhorred bloodshed after battle, and was often seen defending prisoners from the fury of his own warriors: with so noble a character, he must soon have blushed at the atrocious conduct of his allies who basely excited the Indians they had intoxicated to murder their wounded prisoners; he manifested to them all the contempt they had inspired, when he refused with haughtiness the rank of brigadier-general, and the silk scarf 217presented in the name of the king of England, as a reward for his bravery at the battles of Brownstown and Mayagua. Being always pre-occupied with his vast plans, he thought it right to persist in his alliance with the British, until the Americans whom he regarded as his most dangerous enemies were destroyed. Called by his formidable voice, new tribes ranged themselves under his orders, and it was at the head of the flower of his warriors, that he marched to the river Thames, to lend for the last time aid to his allies, in the battle fought with the Americans under general Harrison. From the beginning of the action, Tecumseh had thrown himself with fury amid the ranks of the enemy, and had at first shaken them by the audacity of his attack, but the troops soon rallied, and the combat became horrible. The Indians, excited by the example of their valiant chief, repeatedly renewed their attacks, which the Americans repelled with equal intrepidity. In the midst of the struggle, colonel Johnson advanced almost alone towards a dense body of Indians, who were rallying under the voice of Tecumseh. His uniform and white horse rendered him remarkable, and he became a mark for all shots, and in a moment fell under numerous wounds: at this instant Tecumseh approached and raised his tomahawk to give him the death blow; but, struck with his intrepidity, or his unfortunate situation, he hesitated an instant, and this hesitation proved fatal to him. Colonel Johnson collecting his strength, and perceiving the extent of his danger, drew a pistol from his belt and discharged it, almost touching the breast of Tecumseh, who fell dead by his side. Thus perished this extraordinary man, upon whom rested all the hopes of many nations, who daily diminish, and of which civilization will soon destroy every trace of their past existence. The body of Tecumseh was found among the dead after the battle, and recognized by the Americans, who, in respect to the well known valor of the chief, interred it with all the honours of war.

The plantation surrounding Mr. Jefferson’s dwelling, consists of several thousand acres, but not more than twelve or fourteen hundred are cultivated, the rest being still in wood; the principal products are grain and tobacco. Cultivation appeared to me to be well conducted in general, but judging from the observations I made, it must be 218very expensive, and consequently leave very little profit to the proprietor. Like all the planters of Virginia, Mr. Jefferson employs slaves to do his work; that is to say, if he require the labour of fifty negroes, he must feed, lodge and clothe a hundred, for if from this number of slaves we subtract the old men, children, and weakly or sick women, certainly not more than fifty individuals are in a working condition. After all, it may be added, that these fifty active individuals do not effect more, than would be accomplished by thirty free men hired by the day, as may be easily understood. The free labourer, hired by the day, knows that if he does not exert all his power and all his intelligence, he will cease to be employed, another more laborious will be hired in his place, and be will be reduced to misery; the slave labourer, on the contrary knows, that whatever he may do, his condition will remain unchanged; he is aware that to preserve the capital which he represents, his master will be always forced to feed, lodge, clothe, take care of his health, and defend him; thus without disquiet as without hope for the future, the slave labourer can have but one desire, that of repose. In fact, what is it to him whether his master’s prosperity increases or is diminished? The consequences to him are always the same; is he not always a slave? From these considerations we may boldly conclude, that thirty free labourers paid by the day, would do the work of a hundred slaves, which the owner is obliged to feed and clothe throughout the year, to have fifty labourers. I suppose that the support of each slave costs but one franc a day, and the hire of a labourer would be three, there would then be a difference of ten per cent. a day in the labour, in favour of cultivation by free hands. This difference does not appear at first very considerable, but if we then take into account the enormous capital of 50,000 dollars at least for the purchase of the slaves; the fifty-two Sundays and other holidays, during which nothing is paid to the free labourer, and during which the slaves eat although they do not work, we shall then find that the difference is still greater, and shall scarcely comprehend why a planter (apart from all sentiments of humanity, and consulting his personal interests exclusively,) should not make his best efforts to substitute the labour of free men for that of slaves.

219The good appearance and gaiety of the negroes at Monticello attested the humanity of their master, if so noble a character had need of an attestation; all those with whom I conversed assured me that they found themselves perfectly happy, and were not subject to bad treatment; that their task was light, and that they cultivated the grounds of Monticello with greater satisfaction, because they were nearly certain of not being torn from their homes to be sent elsewhere, during Mr. Jefferson’s life. This conversation proved to me that, notwithstanding what some persons say, it is possible to excite in slaves a love of labour and gain their affections; this infallible mode would be to attach them to the soil, and teach them to consider themselves as an inalienable part of the property to which they belong; to assure them in short, that they should enjoy the ameliorations or embellishments created by the sweat of their brows; when they knew that their natal soil was to nourish them to the end of their days, they would be attached to it, and take pleasure in rendering it productive. The masters themselves would have more regard for beings whom they would no longer consider as beasts of burden, which are to be gotten rid of, if the owner have not talent to guide them. Obliged to keep them, he would take more care of their moral and physical improvement; then those horrible markets would cease, which pitilessly breaking the ties of nature and affection, tear the infant from its mother, separate the wife from the husband, the brother from the sister, the unfortunate from the friends to which at least they were united by the same chain.

The objections to general and immediate emancipation are unanswerable; the objections to gradual emancipation are subject to discussion; but the objections against changing slavery into servitude, appear to be easy of refutation. The government of the United States has given a great lesson to the whole world in abolishing and punishing as a capital crime the trade in slaves. Virginia has acquired great claims upon the gratitude of the friends of humanity in opposing from her infancy the importation of slaves into her territory; but many palms still remain to be merited in this career of justice and philanthropy; the first to be decreed, will belong in my opinion to the states which shall first replace the slaves by servants.

220Before leaving Mr. Jefferson, we went with him to visit the University of Virginia, at Charlotteville; he conveyed us thither in a very elegant calash, made by negroes on his own place; it appeared to be very well made, and in its construction I found a powerful argument against those who pretend that the intelligence of negroes can never be raised to the height of the mechanic arts.

Every thing had been prepared at Charlotteville, by the citizens and students, to give a worthy reception to Lafayette. The sight of the Nation’s Guest, seated at the patriotic banquet, between Jefferson and Madison, excited in those present an enthusiasm which expressed itself in enlivening sallies of wit and humour. Mr. Madison, who had arrived that day at Charlotteville to attend this meeting, was especially remarkable for the originality of his expressions, and the delicacy of his allusions: before leaving the table, he gave a toast, “To liberty, with virtue for her guest, and gratitude for the feast,” which was received with transports of applause.

After dinner, we visited the establishment; it is composed of two parallel lines of small buildings, all of different architecture; at the extremity is another building, constructed after plans of the Parthenon at Athens, reduced to one-fifth of the original dimensions, containing the library, and a vast circular saloon for public meetings. All these different buildings have been superintended by Mr. Jefferson himself, who passed several hours daily either among the workmen, or amidst the pupils and professors, who all profited by his wise counsel.

Before taking leave of the youth of Charlotteville, and its respectable professors, one of the latter took us into a little hall where he showed us a rattlesnake moving at freedom, upon the floor. It was caught a few days previous, in the woods, and was intended as a present for Mr. George Lafayette, who had expressed a desire to obtain one. We contemplated with pleasure this dangerous reptile, whose piercing eye, supple movements, livid body, crossed by broad black bands, and sounding tail, would doubtless have inspired sentiments of another nature, if we bad not known that his venom had been rendered harmless, by the extraction of the canulated fangs, through whose instrumentality this animal so subtlely introduces its poison into the veins 221of the victims it strikes. The poison of the rattlesnake is so violent, that it is said frequently to produce death in less than half an hour. The possibility of obtaining an efficacious remedy against the bite of this reptile, has long been, and still is doubted; however, Doctor Thacher affirms positively, in his excellent Military Journal of 1776, that the employment of olive oil and mercury perfectly succeeded in his hands, in saving the life of a soldier bitten by a rattlesnake.

Notwithstanding the happiness enjoyed by general Lafayette in the company of his old friend Mr. Jefferson, he was obliged to leave him, because other affections and other engagements still called him from numerous points. Of this vast republic, of which we have not yet visited but a small part, although since our landing we have constantly travelled at the rate of nearly forty miles a day. From Monticello we went to Montpelier, the charming residence of the ex-president Madison; there we found with some slight shades of difference the same habits and virtues as at Monticello.

The career of Mr. Madison has a surprising conformity with that of Mr. Jefferson, with whom he was always connected by the warmest friendship. Like his illustrious friend, Mr. Madison, early devoted himself to the study of law, and while still young, was called upon by his fellow-citizens to defend their dearest interests in the legislative assembly; like him he was distinguished by his oratorical talent, and the boldness of his conceptions, in that congress which immortalized itself in declaring the country independent. Like him he was twice called by the people to the chief magistracy of the republic, and moreover, during a part of his administration, he had to sustain a foreign war, which terminated gloriously; like him, finally, in leaving the government-house of the United States, he retired to cultivate his fields, and devote himself to letters, which he had never wholly relinquished, amid the multifarious occupations of his active political life.

Mr. Madison at the time of our visit was seventy-four years of age, but his well preserved frame contained a youthful soul full of sensibility, which he did not hesitate to show, when he expressed to general Lafayette the pleasure he felt at having him in his house. Although the habit of 222reflection and application, give to his countenance an aspect of severity, all the impressions of his heart are rapidly depicted in his features, and his conversation is usually animated with a gentle gaiety. Mrs. Madison also contributes much by the graces of her mind, and the amenity of her character to exalt the excellence of that frank hospitality with which strangers are received at Montpelier.

The four days passed with Mr. Madison were agreeably employed in promenades over his beautiful estate, and still more agreeably by our evening conversations, particularly concerning all the great American interests, which are so dear to general Lafayette. The society which at this time habitually assembled at Montpelier, was almost entirely composed of the neighbouring planters, who for the most part appeared as well versed in all great political questions as in agriculture. Lafayette, who though perfectly understanding the disagreeable situation of American slaveholders, and respecting generally the motives which prevent them from more rapidly advancing in the definitive emancipation of the blacks, never missed an opportunity to defend the right which all men without exception have to liberty, broached among the friends of Mr. Madison the question of slavery. It was approached and discussed by them frankly, and in a manner to confirm me in the opinion I had previously formed concerning the noble sentiments of the majority of Virginians upon this deplorable circumstance. It appears to me, that slavery cannot exist a long time in Virginia, because all enlightened men condemn the principle of it, and when public opinion condemns a principle, its consequences cannot long continue to subsist.

After the question of personal slavery in the United States, the equally important question of the spiritual slavery, to which some of the people of Europe are condemned by the dominant or state religions, was discussed. The friends of Mr. Madison congratulated themselves, that at least this sort of slavery was unknown, in their beloved country; they entered into some details which showed me that they were not men to be contented with what we incessantly invoke as a benefit in Europe, that is religious tolerance. “Tolerance,” said one of them, “is beyond doubt preferable to persecution, but it would always be insupportable in a free country, because it marks an insulting 223pride. To give one religion the right to tolerate, and subject others to the disgrace of being tolerated, it would be first necessary to prove that the tolerant is the only good one, and that all the tolerated were bad. This proof is unobtainable, since each believes his own religion to be the best. The word toleration is, therefore, an insult, and cannot reasonably be replaced except by the word liberty. This liberty we now enjoy in the fullest sense of the term, and we are sure that throughout our twenty-four states, not one is to be found in which it is not better understood than in any part of Europe. However, we have also had our times of tolerance, indeed I may say of intolerance; before our glorious revolution, for instance, we still groaned under laws, by which for certain degrees of heresy, a father could be deprived of the privilege of educating his own children. Every individual might lose the rights of citizen, and a part of the protection of the laws, and sometimes even be burnt. At present there is a happy difference; thanks to our new laws, worthy of the immortal sages who framed them, no individual can be forced to observe any religious worship, nor to frequent any place, nor to support any minister, of whatever religion he may be, nor be constrained, retained, disturbed or oppressed in his own person, or his goods; in short he cannot be persecuted in any manner on account of his religious opinions; but all men have liberty to profess and sustain by reasoning their religious opinions, and these opinions can neither diminish nor increase any of their civil rights.”

To this interesting conversation I paid particular attention; one of the persons engaged in it, who had observed me, took me aside while tea was preparing, and said:—“Since you take so deep an interest in every thing relating to the formation of our institutions, I will tell you of one which was not mentioned by my friend for fear of offending the modesty of our host.—Previous to the revolution, the episcopal religion was the prevailing form of worship in this state; its ministers, dissatisfied at the equality established between different sects by the law of 1776, and still more with the law of 1779, which deprived them of the appointments, which they had previously received from government, declared that they could not be contented with voluntary contributions, and caused a petition to be presented 224to the general assembly in 1784–5, praying for the support of the ministers of the gospel by the government. This petition supported by the most popular talents of the house, appeared likely to triumph; to paralyze this success, some members proposed and obtained a reference of the petition to the ensuing session, as well as to have it printed and submitted to public examination; during the interval, Colonels Mason and G. Nicholas besought Mr. Madison to draw up a refutation of the petition. This refutation was diffused extensively among the people, and was so successful, that it soon received the signatures of vast numbers of persons of all sects, and at the following session the petition was altogether rejected. You will no doubt be pleased to read this production, which in my opinion, contains all that can be most strongly and judiciously said in favour of religious liberty. On reading this refutation, I found it worthy of the commendations bestowed. The principles it contains, are simple, reasonable, and most eloquently established and defended.”

On the 19th of November, we left Montpelier to go to Fredericksburg by the way of Orange Court-house, a numerous escort commanded by Captain Mason came in the morning to attend General Lafayette, and Mr. Madison wished to accompany him. On arriving at Orange Court-house, we found all the inhabitants drawn up in two lines, between which the general advanced to Col. Barbour, the governor of the state of Virginia, deputed by his fellow citizens to make an address to the nation’s guest. In passing along these two lines, the general received the expression of the regrets of some old revolutionary soldiers, who had been prevented by age and the distance from joining their military companions at the Yorktown celebration; he consoled them by evidences of friendship and remembrance, for which they seemed very grateful. After Col. Barbour’s address, Miss Derby presented him in the name of her youthful companions with a nosegay of flowers, and accompanied it by a tender and respectful address.—We did not remain longer than was necessary to be present at an entertainment, over which Col. Barbour presided, who according to custom, proclaimed thirteen toasts during the dessert; these official or regular toasts were followed by numerous volunteers, all expressive of patriotism and gratitude. 225After the dinner, we parted from Mr. Madison, who, notwithstanding his seventy-four years, mounted his horse with activity, and set out through the woods for his peaceful dwelling. We continued on our journey, accompanied by the escort with which we arrived, now considerably augmented by a large number of citizens, who wished to prolong the pleasure of being near Lafayette.

We had advanced but a little way when we discovered a great crowd collected about a triumphal arch, erected at the intersection of the road, and a narrow path scarcely to be distinguished from the thickness of the wood. We soon learned, that this path, over which young females were strewing flowers, and which the crowd passed over with such touching interest, was the road opened by Lafayette, on the 15th June, 1781, in order to make a forced march from the banks of the Rapidan to Michunk Creek, where Cornwallis was much astonished to find him prepared for battle, at the moment he thought he might seize without resistance upon the magazines of the middle states established at Albemarle. This new proof of the honourable recollection in which the Americans held all his actions, deeply affected Lafayette. He was moved almost to tears, when he was covered with flowers by the young ladies, when in descending from his carriage be found himself surrounded and tenderly embraced by the citizens, who awaited him under the triumphal arch. He conversed a long time with them, and related to the young people how strongly these places reminded him of the obligations he owed to their parents. “It was here,” said he, “at the moment when I effected by this path a movement which would have been so fatal, if unsuccessful, that they abandoned their harvests to join my little army, and during that whole campaign, the separation from their families, fatigues of every description, the ruinous abandonment of agriculture, and the difficulty of procuring provisions, did not prevent them from remaining with the army far beyond the time we had any right to ask of them.” But Lafayette did not relate, because modesty prevented him, the address with which he raised the courage of the most dejected, and kept those nearest himself, who were most disposed to withdraw. A detachment of militia were retained beyond their time, by the tardiness of those who were to relieve them, 226and complaining daily more and more, the general agreed that their discontent was well founded; expressed how sensible he was of the considerable injury which must result to those who were so long detained from homeland especially by this unexpected delay, which he could not provide against. He added that he could not imagine the cause of it; apologized for having retained them beyond their time, and declared that he had not the courage to keep them longer, and therefore gave permission to all to withdraw, adding, that for his own part he could not abandon the post confided to him, and should remain with the small number of regular troops he had. He knew perfectly the character of the men he commanded, and by this method obtained the desired results, for after speaking thus he would have found it difficult to have induced one to go, without giving him a certificate that he was obliged to leave him. “Who is the wretch,” said they to each other, “who could ever dream of abandoning the marquis,” by which name the Americans distinguished Lafayette throughout the war. This mode of designating him had become so habitual throughout the United States, that it was still used when we arrived at New York. During several days the newspapers, in giving an account of his movements, and of the entertainments given to him, used no other appellation in speaking of him, and they only relinquished it when they learned that the general constantly refused to resume this title, since his renunciation of it in the national assembly. His cotemporaries had a great deal of difficulty in renouncing an old habit which was not without its charms to them, since it reminded them of their youthful days. I recollect at Philadelphia an old lady, who had known him well during the revolution, and who probably thought of him as he appeared at that time, pressed towards him through the crowd, saying, “Let me pass, that I may again see that good young marquis.”

It was not until sunset on the 20th of November, that we arrived at Fredericksburgh, where the general was received by the little boys formed into a battalion under the name of Lafayette Cadets; the night was already dark, and the town glittered with illumination, when we arrived at the place where the mayor pronounced his welcome. A splendid supper, and a ball in which all the ladies of Fredericksburg 227were present, terminated the day. Next day being Sunday, we went to the Episcopal church, escorted by the free masons in grand ceremony. The clergyman who officiated was a member of the lodge. On Monday we passed part of the day with Captain Lewis, a nephew of General Washington, and in the evening we set out for Washington, accompanied for several miles by the inhabitants of Fredericksburgh. At the Strafford county line, the extremity of which we crossed, the militia met the general to escort him to the Potomac, where the vessel waited for us, and conveyed us to Washington by a pleasant night voyage.

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