The first time I heard of Notting Hill was many years
since. I was asked to sign a petition, the prayer of which
pleaded for Parliamentary interference to stop the action of the
Proprietors of the Hippodrome at Notting Hill from running horses
on Sundays. I have heard since that races were not run upon
that day, but horses were tried as a preliminary step to the
races during the week.
In 1844, when I first became acquainted with the
neighbourhood, I enquired what had become of the race-course and
was shown an open country,—the place now occupied by St.
John’s Church, Notting Hill, being the spot on which the
grand stand had been erected, and the course as nearly as I can
describe is now covered by Clarendon Road, Cornwall Road,
Portobello Road, Horbury Terrace and Ladbroke Square. I
found that the inhabitants had insisted upon a right of way
across the grounds, and taking the law into their own hands, with
hatchets and saws had removed the barriers and thus by
maintaining their right to cross the ground when they pleased
caused the racing men to abandon it.
The
changes which have taken place in the parishes are to my mind so
marvellous that I think it will not be uninteresting to those
whose acquaintance is of a later date to record what I remember
of the locality 38 years ago.
Starting from Edgware Road and passing down what was then
called the Uxbridge Road, now known as the Bayswater Road.
On the south side Hyde Park was enclosed by the old iron railings
which were pulled down by the mob a few years since.
Kensington Gardens were enclosed by an old wall which I esteemed
to be a disgrace to London.
The narrow pathway outside the wall was used by the parish
authorities as a suitable place to keep reserved heaps of broken
granite for repairing the road.
The spot now occupied by Palace Gardens was also enclosed and
formed a kitchen garden to the Kensington Palace.
On the north side from Edgware Road, Connaught Terrace and a
few houses on either side of the Burial Ground were existing, but
Hyde Park Gardens were not. A little further on however was
an old public house standing at the corner of a road known as Elm
Grove and beyond that several wooden shops, one occupied as an
oyster and ginger beer dealer and the other by a coach maker,
beyond this was the Parish Ground known as “Bread and
Cheese” land, occupied by a Mr. Cheese as Tea Gardens and
by Mr. Hopwood as a Nursery Ground. Passing some villas we
arrived at the “Black Lion” standing at the corner of
Queen’s Road, then known as “Black Lion Lane,” then
on to Bark Place and Orme Square, which was built by a Mr. Orme,
formerly a print-seller in Bond Street, who also erected
Bayswater Chapel, in St. Petersburgh Place. Behind these
were Moscow Road and Coburgh Place, erected in 1814.
Beyond Petersburg Place was Victoria Place, which led to a
field upon which are now built Leinster and Princes Squares and
Kensington Gardens Square.
A footpath across this field led to Westbourne Grove.
This footpath was the only way except Black Lion Lane by which
Westbourne Grove could be reached. So much was this field
in the country that I have several times seen Sunday School
children taken there for their annual excursions.
A little farther down the road was Camden Street, a perfect
rookery. Dirty men, women and children infested this
place. Beyond this was Stourmont House, at that time a
ladies’ school but it had been occupied by the Earl of
Craven and let by him to Queen Ann as a nursery for the Duke of
Gloucester. Dean Swift lodged here in 1712.
By the side of Stourmont House was Linden Grove—at that
time a quiet grove in which resided several noted artists,
including the celebrated Mr. Mulready, R.A.
Opposite Linden Grove was the Mall, another favourite
residence of artists, and here lived at this time the celebrated
Mr. Calcott, R.A., and Mr. Webster.
The Mall had in former time been made notorious by Thurtell,
the murderer of Mr. Ware, in whose garden in the Mall the body of
the murdered man was found.
At the corner of Linden Grove was situated the first shop in the
village of Notting Hill, it was occupied by Mr. Fenn, tailor, who
still has a business at Notting Hill and is the oldest tradesman
there.
Notting Hill at this time was a little country place with few
shops and those very small. It was however beginning to put
on an appearance of life, for four large shops were being erected
opposite Silver Street on the garden ground fronting a mansion
which had been a large academy. This old house and others
which have since had shops built in their forecourts may still be
seen. Mr. King’s Italian Warehouse was the first
London shop opened, and a crowd of people nightly assembled to
see the place lighted with gas.
Shortly afterwards other shops were built before the next
mansion which had been the residence of Madame Vestris.
In the front of this mansion was the turnpike and the
toll-taker’s house. This was the first turnpike out
of London.
At the corner of Portobello Road, now called Devonshire
Terrace, was a mansion enclosed by a wall, then the residence of
the Rev. Mr. Holloway, minister of Percy Chapel, Fitzroy
Square.
Upon the death of Mr. Holloway this mansion was occupied by
Rev. Mr. Gordon, a Presbyterian minister and the author of a
pocket commentary on the Bible. Mr. Gordon conducted public
services for some years on Sundays in a building attached to his
house.
This mansion was afterwards demolished and shops built upon
the site, which are now occupied by Messrs. Swain, Fenn,
Leverett & Fry, Shirley, and the Devonshire Arms, also the
houses by the side, Pembridge Gardens and Devonshire Terrace.
I have traced the main road as it appeared in 1844, from
Edgware Road to the house now known as Devonshire Arms. At
this point commenced a country lane, leading partly between
hedges and afterwards through fields to Kensal Green.
It was a most delightful walk; from certain portions of the
lane charming views could be obtained. This can hardly be
understood by the present inhabitants; it will be made more clear
if I say that looking from the back of either mansion I have
mentioned from Stormont House to Portobello Lane the whole
country was open, and only a few farms here and there.
Hampstead, on the north, was visible, and from the hill by the
side of Porto Bello farm, then occupied by Mr. Wise; on the east,
London; and on the north-west, Harrow-on-the-Hill were clearly
visible. No wonder that this pleasant lane was the
favourite walk not only of the inhabitants of Notting Hill but
also of many from the great city.
From west to north, from north to east scarcely a house was to
be seen. Corn fields and meadow land on every side, the
quiet only broken by the occasional passing of a train on the
Great Western Railway at Kensal Green. It seems almost
impossible to realize the fact, but it is a fact that during this
38 years the thousands of houses which are now to be seen from
Ealing to Hampstead, Hampstead to Edgware Road have been
built. Returning to the High Street, in the village of
Notting Hill, the little shops from the Mall on the south side of the
street were occupied by some of the principal tradesmen of that
far off day.
There lived Mr. Burden, who kept a rag and bottle shop, and
who was an orator and a great man on the Kensington Vestry, also
a proprietor of Bayswater omnibuses, whose wife kept a
greengrocer’s shop. Poor woman, she was of such
proportions that when she died I saw the coffin lowered from the
bedroom window into the street by ropes.
There also lived Mr. Brewer, who transacted the largest
business of the village in the grocery, cheesemongery, and
corn-dealing line; also a real candle maker, whose shop was
reached up four stone steps. Then came the first village
Inn, the “Swan” at the corner of Silver Street,
which, like the “Hoop” a few doors past Silver
Street, stood back from the street and had a horse trough in
front. Of course these inns have been rebuilt, as also has
the more important inn further up on the North side, the
“Coach and Horses.”
At the corner of Silver Street was a little butcher’s
shop, and next door a brush shop, the proprietor of which was a
most intelligent man, but a “Chartist,” and a great
friend of Fergus O’Connor. He was the principal mover
in erecting a monument at Kensal Green over the remains of that
gentleman, who seems, by the present condition of that monument,
to have been forgotten by this generation, although he tried hard
to get every working man a small portion of the land of his birth
as a means of acquiring independency. Many tried it, but
they found they could earn more by labour than they could grow in
an acre of the best soil. Close by where the Notting Hill
Gate Station now is stood in those days the Village Pump,
concerning the removal of which sundry indignation meetings were
held and fierce threats made of law proceedings. It was
said at these meetings that no such pure water could be obtained
any where else, but as I once lived near Aldgate Pump and
used to hear the same, and drank of that water with relish until
the horrid chemists analized it and said it was full of organic
matter, percolating from Aldgate Churchyard, where the bodies of
hundreds had been buried at the time of the plague, I had ceased
to have faith in city or village pumps, and rejoiced to see an
arrangement made by which pure water could be supplied from the
Water Companies’ pipes through a tap. For years this
tap existed in front of No. 71 or 73, High Street, but I find it
has been removed.
I think, however, there should have been an inscription
there—
“Here stood the Village Pump.”
There should likewise be another Tablet by Farm Street,
stating—
“Here stood the Village Pound.”
In which pound I have seen many a disconsolate donkey, horse,
or goat. I never saw the Village Stocks, perhaps the
villagers of Notting Hill were always a sober, law-abiding
people, and had no need of such civilizing structures.
I remember, however, seeing a man in the stocks at Lewisham,
placed there for being drunk. As he was being well
supplied with beer by his companions, I think it probable the
result of the punishment was that he was more drunken after than
before.
In 1844 there were only two shops in the village above one
story high. The exceptions are now numbered 150, 152; the
latter house was then, as now, a cheesemonger’s.
The shop windows were principally common glass. Plate
glass had not come into fashion. Some of the shops were
lighted with oil lamps, and, I think, some with candles.
I cannot speak for the intelligence of all the tradesmen of
that time, but remember a serious conversation with one who, at
the conclusion, very gravely remarked, “I suppose publicans
in the time of the Saviour were a bad sort of people. I go
every night to the ‘Coach and Horses’ to have one
glass and a pipe, and the landlord is not a bad sort of a man,
but in old times publicans seem always somehow mixed up with
sinners.”
Behind the south side of High Street, where a number of small
houses are now built, was a large brickfield, owned by a Mr.
Clutterbuck. A single street only was then built, called
New Street. The proper name, however, was Newcombe
Street. At the south end of this street was
The Church and Congregation of this little chapel afterwards
built the large
The
names of a few of the old church members are still to be found on
the register of the church books at Westbourne Grove Chapel, but
the majority have found a better, more enduring home.
“They rest from their labours, and their works do follow
them.”
Campden Hill Road, at this time called “Plough
Lane,” was a private road leading to large houses, one of
which had been occupied by Sir I. Newton. The high Water
Tower which may now be seen as a land mark for many miles was not
then erected.
At the corner of Plough Lane (the east side now covered with
houses and the north side by shops) stood a mansion surrounded by
a wall. This was occupied by a Captain Coote, a
German. I believe both he and his wife had in former time
had something to do with the trial of Queen Caroline as witnesses
for the Queen.
About 1846 building commenced in earnest. The beautiful
Portobello Lane was denuded of its hedges near Notting Hill, and
a roadway cut through to where Horbury Chapel now stands.
Beyond this, in that which is now Kensington Park Road the first
new buildings were erected known at that time as the Swiss and
Italian Villas. Ladbroke Square and other houses in that
locality soon followed.
On the top of the hill, where once stood Notting Hill Farm and
the grand stand of the Hippodrome Race Ground, the foundation
stone of a new church, St. John’s, was laid about
1846. The last owner of this farm seems to have been a man
highly respected. A tablet was erected to his memory in the old
church at Kensington, from which I make a short extract:
“IN MEMORY
Of John Hall, &c., &c., and of Notting Hill. For
those who remember him that name were his best epitaph. To
others it may be useful to record that John Hall was one who in
life, by his good works, and by fervent faith in death proved
that the source of virtue is in the love of God.
&c., &c.
He died August 10, 1816, aged 54.”
The first minister of St. John’s Church was not so
highly esteemed as the old owner of the Hill had been. It
was stated that in asking for signatures to a petition that the
Church should be a District Church, he misled those who were
asked to sign by saying it would make no difference, but directly
the object was attained a church rate was called for. He
became very unpopular, and the last I heard of him was that he
headed a strange procession. Walking through the street he
was met by a crowd following a broker, who had seized a large
clock for church rates. He was immediately surrounded, and
compelled to follow the broker to his house. Some hundreds
of people joined in the procession. He soon after obtained
a fresh living, and the church has always since had ministers who
were respected.
The name was given by a Mr. Adams, who was then occupier of
the farm at the end of the lane. It was named at the
time Porto Bello was captured. In 1844 the farm was called
Wise’s Farm, Mr. Wise being the owner.
The lane ended outside the Farm, and a gate opened to a
pathway which lead over a bridge on the canal to Kensal
Green.
To the west of this Farm lay the old Farm of Knotting Barns,
an ancient brick building surrounded by spacious barns and
outhouses. A road to Kensal Green passed through the farm
yard.
In 1844 this was known as Salter’s Farm, Mr. Salter
being the proprietor.
In 1524 it is recorded in the will of Robert Fenrother,
Alderman of London, that Knotting Barns Farm consisted of 40
acres of land, 140 acres of meadow, 200 acres of wood, 20 acres
of moor, 20 acres of furze and heath.
In 1543 Henry VIII. took this farm and land in exchange for
some he had held (in the county of Southampton). In
1675 it had decreased in size and was reckoned as 130
acres. How many acres were connected with in 1844 I cannot
record, but I have said that on all sides nothing but corn or
meadow land was visible. The site of Portobello Farm may be
known as upon that spot is erected a Roman Catholic building, a
home for the aged.
Notting Barn Farm was at the lower part of St. Mark’s
Road. Norland House, where Norland Square was built in 1850
to 1856, was noted for its artesian well which was sunk in 1794
by Mr. Vulliamy to the depth of 260 feet, when the water rose and
overflowed at the rate of 46 gallons a minute. The water
was leased to 3 persons at 7/- each per week and sold in the
neighbourhood at 2/6 per ton, or ½d a pailful.
Thirty-eight years ago there were no houses from Notting
Hill Terrace to Acton with the exception of a few small houses
opposite Shepherd’s Bush Common. This Common had been
notorious some years before as a place of execution for
highwaymen, and for years gibbets were standing there with the
remains of some of the fraternity dangling in the wind. I
never saw them, but when a boy I have seen the remains of pirates
hanging by chains by the river side past Greenwich. The
Common was even till late years claimed as the property of the
inhabitants, some of whom claimed to the last the right to turn
out their horses or goats upon its scanty grass.
Behind the road of Notting Hill there was a lane called
Pottery Lane. In this lane was a place where tiles were
made and at the end of the lane a colony of pigkeepers.
Every house here had a colony of the porcine family in its
yard. A number of carts filled with tubs passed daily to
London gathering refuse from hotels and mansions to feed the
large families of pigs gathered here.
It was not a savoury place and at the time of the cholera the
inhabitants suffered severely.
Rough looking people they appeared, but upon closer
acquaintance it was seen they looked more uncouth than they
really were. The only religious or secular education the
people and children received was provided by the members of the
Baptist chapel at Silver Street, and the congregation at Hornton
Street. Their place of meeting for some years, was in an
unfinished house with its unplastered walls on two floors not
divided into separate rooms.
Their teachers were poor but they had love to God in their
hearts and proved it by their love to their neighbours.
Their
names unrecorded on earth will never be forgotten by Him who said
“Inasmuch as ye did it to the least of these my brethren ye
did it to me.”
Beyond this colony I discovered another in Latimer Road where
there was no Sabbath teaching or secular education. In
looking back I feel grateful to God for the numbers I was enabled
to gather together on the Sabbath, both of adults and children
and also for the many children who received instruction in a day
school I established. It is many years ago but I meet with
some now who thank God that in the Sabbath teaching there they
received that acquaintance with Jesus which has proved a blessing
to them and their children to the present time. But what a
place it was when I first discovered it—comparatively out
of the world—a rough road cut across the field, the only
approach. Brickfields and pits on either side, making it
dangerous to leave on dark nights.
A safe place for many people who did not wish everybody to
know what they were doing. I am afraid that there were more
spirits about there than there were either bodies or
bottles to contain.
I could tell a great deal about Latimer Road in 1844 to 1850,
but other Pharoahs have arisen there who know not Joseph and they
are doing a good work in that which by the opening of a railway
station has become a well-known place.
Westbourne Grove was a pleasant Grove of small villas with
gardens in front and behind. Newton Road was a similar
place.
The only road by which they could be approached was Black Lion
Lane, now Queen’s Road and a footpath across the field
where Princes Square now stands.
The Royal Oak was a country inn.
There were no houses of business then in the Grove, but where
the Redan and about twelve shops down the Grove stand, there was
a nursery ground, which in former times was a favourite resort of
Queen Ann.
The inhabitants of the Grove were principally City or West-end
men of business, who reached their habitation by the Bayswater or
Paddington omnibuses.
These omnibuses belonged to two companies, the principal
proprietors were:—Messrs. Melliship, Treadaway, Carpenter
and Grant.
The General Omnibus Company afterwards bought up all their
vehicles.
There was also one omnibus, the “Eagle,” which ran
from Kensington Church, through Church Street, Bayswater Road,
New Road, Islington to the Bank.
There were no cab stands but a stray cab might often be found
at the Black Lion in the Bayswater Road or outside one of the
other country inns.
Queen’s Road (Black Lion Lane) was only partly built on
and the houses were small. A Wesleyan Chapel and Orphanage
stood then on the site of the Queen’s Road Chapel, and in
1846, a high house (about No. 153, since taken by Mr. Whiteley)
was erected for a Chartist Club House. It afterwards became
the Queen’s Hotel. The houses opposite the baths were
also built about 1846.
Porchester Terrace was only partially built, but on the west
side resided Mr. Linnel, an artist, whose paintings of corn
fields, &c., are so much admired by all who see them.
The reader may judge what sort of house the Royal Oak was by
looking at the newspaper shop a few doors away. Beyond this
to the railway on both sides of that which is now Bishop’s
Road was a waste wilderness. I only remember one house and
that a wooden one which had an inscription “The Cottage of
Content.” It was a large basin-like piece of land and
upon this Westbourne Terrace, Gloucester Gardens, Bishop’s
Road, the north end of Porchester Terrace, and Craven Hill Road
were built.
The Bishop of that day gave the deepest hole to the
parishioners to build a church—about the worst part of what
was then his large estate. It cost about £2,000 to
fill up the hole to its present level before Trinity Church could
be built. This church, like others, the ratepayers paid for
with Church Rates. I had the pleasure of seconding a
resolution to make the last Church rate in Paddington.
St. Mary’s Hospital was commenced about 1845 and under
its excellent management has proved to be a great blessing to
Paddington.
On the site of the Trinity Schools in the Harrow Road was a
public Maze, a great resort for holiday people as it was then
completely in the country. Here too was a magic mirror, in
which for twopence any young lady might behold (?) her future
husband.
In the Harrow Road, opposite the Vestry Hall, stood until
1860, the oldest charitable buildings in the parish, a block of
small almshouses. They afforded shelter for about 16 poor
old women. No doubt they felt more independent in their
actions than they would have done in the Workhouse. It is
doubtful if they were so well cared for as they would have been
in the larger house with its excellent Master and Matron, who
take a great interest in the comfort of all the inmates.
They are not answerable for the separation of old married
couples, against which separation I strongly protest.
It is not, however, every married couple who wish to live
together; of this I had a proof once when I asked a man if he
would not be more happy with his aged wife? After a
moment’s consideration he answered “Thank you sir, I
have had enough of her.” This I think must have been
a rare exception.
Kensal Green Cemetery had in 1844 already received not a few
bodies but the majority have been interred since.
Members of Silver Street Chapel used to look with deep
interest at the tomb of John Colston, a much-loved Superintendent
of their Sabbath School. With the same deep interest many
look upon the grave of a later Superintendent of the School at
Westbourne Grove Chapel, the highly esteemed Thomas Faulkes,
whose memory is still dear. How many a member of the old
and also of the new Westbourne Grove Chapel have gone with sad
hearts to that God’s acre. To mention names would be
painful to both reader and writer; I only add “Till He
come.”
A few names of public men and women buried here will, perhaps
not, be out of place:—
Duke of Sussex, Sydney Smith, Anne Scott and Sophia
Lockhart, daughters of Sir Walter Scott, John Hugh Lockhart his
grandson, Thomas Hood, Thackeray, Calcott, Mulready, John Leach,
John Cassel, The Princess Sophia of Gloucester, Statesmen, Poets,
Actors, Artists, Physicians and Quacks. The rich and the
poor have all found here one common resting place, but amongst
those unmentioned names how many an one whom the world has not
esteemed will be found in the end to be among the number of whom
the “world was not worthy.”
In writing the history of the transformation of Notting Hill
from country to its present condition I must mention a gentleman,
the Rev. Mr. Walker, who it was said came to the neighbourhood
with half a million sterling to invest. Who were his
advisers I do not know; but he was not long in causing hundreds
of carcases of houses to be built. If he had commenced his
operations on the London side of the estate no doubt the houses
would have sold and a fine investment made, but as he preferred
building from Clarendon Road (where roads were not made) towards
London the land was covered with unfinished houses which
continued in a ruinous condition for years and the consequence
was the investor was almost ruined.
This gentleman built All Saints Church and intended to put
upon it a spire as high as that on Salisbury Cathedral. Sad
tales could be told of not a few who sank their all in bricks and
mortar. Lawyers and money-lenders have in time past reaped
a rich harvest at Notting Hill, but many a hard working man
falling into their hands has been ruined.
Between
Richmond Road and Ledbury Road is a road called Artesian
Road. This is in remembrance of an artesian well which was
sunk there. The water was very pure and cold and houses in
Ledbury Road and in its neighbourhood were supplied with water
from this well until the water companies bought it up.
The Richmond Road was built about 1848. Mr. Plimley,
fruiterer, and Mr. Anderson, confectioner, are the oldest
inhabitants. Sutherland Place, Courtnell Street, Archer
Street, were built about 1850. The first two houses built
in Portobello Road stood for many years unfinished and were
called “The Folly.”
The house now occupied by the London Photographic Co’s
studio at the corner of Norfolk Terrace was built in the middle
of a field, and for some time seemed likely also to be called
The Folly, and certainly in its solitary position it
looked for some time very foolish, but the builders knew what was
likely to follow better than those who were not in the
secret.
But even they could not have thought that the quiet Westbourne
Grove of their day would ever become the busy place it is now
with its enterprizing men of business and its crowded
thoroughfares.
In Paddington 38 years ago were very few. There was the
old church on Paddington Green, and no other except the chapel in
St. Petersburgh Place, the minister, the Rev. Mr. Smalley, was
rightly highly esteemed; his curate, Rev. Mr. Buckmaster, and the
Scripture reader, Mr. Leask, were also powers for good in their
day.
How
well this church has been honoured by the late lamented
Archdeacon Hunter his large congregation will long
remember. It seems sad that he should not have lived to see
the new church which he commenced completed, but the Great
Disposer of all events knew best, and he worships now in a better
sanctuary.
Kensington had its parish church, St. Mary Abbot’s, and
a chapel in Addison Road. At the former was a man beloved
by all who knew him, the Venerable Archdeacon Sinclair, a man
whose memory will be still dear to some old inhabitants of
Kensington.
In Hornton Street, Kensington, was the chapel formerly under
the pastorate of Dr. Vaughan, and here the Queen’s mother
often listened to the Gospel.
The Wesleyans had their chapel behind the High Street, and the
Baptists in Silver Street Kensington Gravel Pits. This
church now worships as Westbourne Grove Chapel.
Old Silver Street chapel would hold about 200 people, it had
one gallery in front of the pulpit, and behind the pulpit sliding
doors opened on to the Sunday School Room. On great
occasions the minister could have a congregation both in front
and behind him. This however did not often happen.
In 1844 the minister was Rev. F. Wills, and the Deacons
Messrs. Saunders, Farmer, Worger and Wood. All these
honoured brethren “have ceased from their
labours.”
Nonconformity was not allowed much room in Paddington, the land
there mainly belonged to the Bishop and the friends of the
Established church.
The Baptists had a chapel in Praed Street, from which has
sprung the Westbourne Park Chapel under the pastorate of Rev. J.
Clifford. The Wesleyans had a chapel in Queen’s Road
since rebuilt.
In 1844
|
In 1882.
|
Paddington had 2 churches
|
18.
|
,, ,, 2 Nonconformist Chapels
|
17.
|
Kensington had 2 churches
|
23.
|
,, ,, 3 Nonconformist chapels
|
24.
|
All honour to the men and women who have been instrumental not
only in erecting buildings but in maintaining the great and
important work connected with these places of worship.
The churches and the country look to the young to follow in
the steps of those who through good report and evil have worked
on for the promotion of Christ’s kingdom and the welfare of
their neighbours.
The past generation have done much. Let every Christian
see to it not only to hold the ground acquired, but to use all
their influence to do even more than those who have gone
before.
I conclude with the desire that one more used to literary
composition had written the facts. I hope all discrepancies
will be overlooked and that it may not be uninteresting to
read
The Remembrances of
AN OLD INHABITANT.