With noisy puffings the steamboat was slowly
pushing her way up the river. On either side the flat
bottom, in some places overgrown with high willow
brush, in others, bearing a growth of tall and sturdy
cottonwoods, ran back a long way to the yellow
bluffs beyond. The bluffs were rounded and several
hundred feet in height, rising imperceptibly until
they seemed to meet the blue of the sky, so that the
boat appeared to be moving at the bottom of a wide
trough. Hour after hour she pushed on, meeting
nothing, seeing nothing alive, except now and then a
pair of great gray geese, followed by their yellow
goslings; or sometimes on the shore a half-concealed
red object, which moved quickly out of sight, and
which observers knew to be a deer.
On the boat were two of our old friends. From
the far East had come Jack Danvers, traveling day
after day until he had reached Bismarck, Dakota,
where he found awaiting him Hugh Johnson, as
grave, as white-haired, and as cheery as ever. At
Bismarck they had taken the up-river steamer,
"Josephine," and the boat had sailed early on the
morning of July 5th.
Hugh and Jack were on their way back up to the
Piegan country. They had separated at Bismarck
the previous autumn, and while Hugh kept on down
the river, to take a west-bound train, which should
carry him back to Mr. Sturgis' ranch in Wyoming,
Jack had gone East, to spend the winter in New York.
He had had a year of hard work at school, for his experience
of the previous winter had taught him that
it paid well to work in school, and to make the most of
his opportunities there. This made his parents more
willing to have him go away to this healthful life,
and he found that if he did his best he enjoyed all
the better the wild, free life of the prairie and the
mountains, which he now hoped would be his during
a part, at least, of every year.
His summer with the Piegans had taught him
many things known to few boys in the East, and
given him many pleasures to which they are strangers;
and the more he saw of this prairie life the more he
enjoyed it, and the more he hoped to have more and
more of it. Sometimes, when he awoke early in the
morning, or at night, after he had gone to bed, as he
lay between sleeping and waking, he used to go over
in his mind the scenes that he had visited, and the
stirring adventures in which he had taken part, and
these memories, with the hope of others like them,
gave him a pleasure that he would not have parted
with for anything.
Often when he was in New York, walking through
narrow city streets, looking up at high buildings,
hearing the roar and rattle of the passing traffic, and
watching the people hurry to and fro, each one
absorbed in his own business, it was hard to realize
that away off somewhere, only a few days' journey
distant, there was a land where there was no limit to
the view, where each human being seemed absolutely
free, and where it was possible to travel for days and
days without seeing a single person. Always interwoven
with his dreams and his imaginings about this
distant country was the memory of the friend Hugh,
to whom he was so deeply attached. It hardly seemed
to him possible to go anywhere in the West, except in
company with Hugh, and until he had joined him, it
never seemed as if his journey had begun, or was
really going to be made.
All through the day the boat went on, turning and
twisting, and at different times facing all points of
the compass. Sometimes the sun would be shining
on the port side of the boat, a little later on the starboard
side, then it would be ahead, and again behind.
Hugh and Jack spent their time chatting on the
upper deck of the boat, Hugh smoking vigorously, to
keep off the mosquitoes, while Jack, the edges of his
handkerchief under his hat and tucked inside his coat
collar, to leeward of Hugh, took advantage of the
constant stream of smoke that poured from his pipe.
They had much to tell each other of the winter that
had passed, and much to say of the trip on which
they were now starting. Fort Benton was their
destination, and until they reached there, and saw
their friend Joe, the Blackfoot Indian who was to
meet them with the horses, they were uncertain what
they should do.
There were not a few passengers on the boat.
Some of them were carefully dressed persons, wearing
long frock coats, white shirts, and a modest
amount of jewelry, residents of the thriving towns of
Helena or Virginia City, Montana; others were army
officers, on their way to posts in the Northwest, or
now starting out on some exploring expedition;
while others still were persons of whose occupation
and destination it was hard to judge from their
appearance.
Among them was a middle-aged man who Jack
thought, from his conversation, had long been a resident
of the plains, and who told Jack something
about a trade that he had long practised—that of
wolfing.
"Why, young fellow," he said, "it is only a few
years ago since there was good money in wolfin', but
I had to quit it down in the southern country for
wolves got too scarce when the buffalo got killed off.
Wherever there was buffalo there was plenty of
wolves, for the wolves made their livin' off the herds,
just like the Indians; and when I say wolves I mean
big wolves, coyotes, foxes, and swifts.
"In the autumn, as soon as the fur began to get
good, I used to start out and find a herd of buffalo,
and after shootin' two or three of them, I'd skin
them down, and rip them up, and put from one to
three bottles of strychnine in each carcass. After
the blood that lay in the ribs had been poisoned
good, I'd smear that over the meat on the outside.
Generally I'd try to kill my buffalo close to where I
was goin' to camp, and after I had put out my baits I
went to camp and slept until near day. Then, before
I could see, I'd get up, cook my breakfast, hitch up,
if I had a team, and go round to all my baits.
Likely, around each one I'd find my half dozen to
fifteen wolves, and sometimes it would take me two
or three days to skin them. Likely enough, if the
weather turned right cold, I got a good many more
wolves than I could skin, and had to stack them up,
and wait till I got time. It was mighty hard work
now, and don't you forget it. Then, too, there was
always a chance that Indians might come along and
make trouble for me. You take a man out on the
prairie, ten years ago, and even the friendly Indians
were likely to scare him a whole lot, or take his hides,
even if they didn't take away his gun and his horses.
As for the hostiles, if they got too close to a man it
was all up with him. But I never had no trouble
with them, except once, and then I was camped in
the dug-out, with plenty of provisions, and there
was only three of the Indians. I saw them comin',
and suspected who they were, and managed to get
my horses into the dug-out with me and stood 'em
off. They scared me bad though.
"I should think so," said Jack.
The man stopped talking to fill his pipe and after
he had lighted it puffed thoughtfully. Then he continued:
"There's another way I've wolfed it, and
that is by draggin' a bait over quite a scope of
country, and droppin' pieces of poisoned meat along
the trail. I used to do that when I couldn't find
animals to kill for bait. This worked pretty well for
awhile but it's no good any more down in that
country."
"I've seen coyotes killed by putting poisoned tallow
in auger holes, bored in chunks of wood," said Jack.
"Yes," said the man, "that's good sometimes, and
they stay there lickin' and lickin' up the bait until
they die right there. You don't have to look over
much country to find your wolves."
"What kind of meat did you use when you were
dragging the bait?" asked Jack.
"Most any kind would do," replied the wolfer;
"sometimes it would be a piece of buffalo meat,
sometimes a shoulder of a deer, but the best bait of
all is a beaver carcass; there's lots of grease and lots
of smell to that, and the wolves and coyotes are sure
to follow it. This draggin' a trail is good too, because
the wolves, when they go along and snap up
the poisoned bait, don't go off, but keep right on followin'
the trail, and you find them there, maybe quite
a long way from where they pick the bait.
"Where are you goin', young fellow; you and that
old man I see you talking with?"
"We're going up to Benton," said Jack, "and I
don't know where we're going from there. I expect
we'll meet a friend there, with our horses, and then
we're going to make a trip, off maybe on the prairies,
and maybe into the mountains; we can't tell yet."
"Sho," said the man, "you're sure goin' to have a
good time. I've got to get a job when I get to Benton;
somethin' that'll keep me until it comes time for
fur to get good."
The next morning when Jack and Hugh left their
stateroom a heavy fog hung low over the river and
the boat was not moving, but was tied up to the bank,
for it was so thick that there was danger of running
aground on the frequent sand-bars, and as the river
was now falling, the captain was unwilling to take the
chance of such delay. On the lower deck was a dug-out
canoe, the property of a temporary passenger,
who was going only to Fort Berthold, and, after breakfast,
Jack suggested to Hugh that they should borrow
this canoe and go off a little way up the river, taking
their guns, and seeing whether they could kill anything.
Hugh said this could not be done, explaining
that it would be easy enough to get lost, which would
be bad for them, and very irritating to the captain,
who might feel it necessary to wait for them; and
besides this, the fog might lift at any moment, when
the boat would move onward much faster than they
could paddle. As it happened, the fog lifted almost
immediately, and the boat set forward; and a little
before noon the village of the Rees, Gros Ventres
and Mandans, high up on the bluff above the river,
was seen; and soon after the boat tied up, and all
hands went ashore.
The bluff rose steeply from the river, and up and
down its face were steep trails, worn by the feet of
women passing up and down as they carried water
and the driftwood which they gathered, up to the
village. On the top of the bluff stood the bee-hive
shaped gray houses, which Hugh told Jack were
much like those occupied by the Pawnees.
They began to climb the bluff toward the village,
and Jack asked Hugh about the Indians who lived
here.
"In old times," said Hugh, "these Indians were
scattered out up and down the river. The Gros Ventres
lived furthest up, between here and Buford, and
the Rees and Mandans lived further down the stream.
A long time ago,—back maybe more than a hundred
years,—the Rees and the Mandans all lived together,
away down below here; but then they had
some sort of a quarrel among themselves, and the
Mandans moved on up the stream, and for a long
time camped near the mouth of the Knife River.
For a while after that there was some fighting between
the Rees and Mandans, but after a time they
made peace, and gradually the tribes came together
again; and now for a long time they've all lived together
in this village of Berthold. In old times each
of these villages was a big one, but since the white
men came among them, and brought smallpox, and
liquor, and all the other things that the white men
bring, they are dying off fast, and I don't believe that
now there is more than eight or nine hundred of
these Indians all together. You know these Rees
here are kind of kin to the Pawnees; they speak near
the same language, so that I can talk with 'em, and
they call the Pawnees their relations. I think they
used to be a part of the Skidi band. Nobody knows
just when they separated from the Pawnees, but it
must have been a good while ago."
Hugh paused, and Jack asked: "Does any one
know how they came to separate, Hugh? Is there
any tradition about it?"
"Yes," said Hugh, "there is. The old story is
that all the Pawnees were out hunting, and the Sioux
got around some of 'em, and cut 'em off from the rest
and kept fighting 'em, and driving 'em, and fighting
and driving, until they got 'em away up on the Missouri
River, so far from their friends that they had to
winter there. Then, along back, maybe about 1830,
soon after the beginning of the fur trade on the
upper river, the Rees fought the white folks, and were
generally hostile. After that they went back and
joined the Pawnees, but they couldn't get along well
with the Pawnees, and quarreled with them, and
finally the Pawnees drove 'em off. So they came on
back up the river. It was after that that they joined
the Mandans, and they've lived together ever since."
By this time they had reached the top of the bluff,
and were now close to the houses, on whose curious
domed roofs many people were sitting,—women busy
with their work, young men wrapped in their robes,
and looking off into the distance, and little girls playing
with their dolls or their puppies. The ground in
the village all about the houses was worn bare by the
passage of many feet; Indians were going to and fro,
women carrying water and wood, men naked, or
wrapped in their summer sheets, little boys chasing
each other, or, with their ropes trying to snare the
dogs, which were usually too cunning for them.
Jack was greatly interested in the houses, and
wished to look into one, and to this Hugh said there
would be no objection. The entrance of each house
was by a long passage-way, closed above, and at the
sides, and passing through this, they found themselves
at the door. Jack expected to go into a room
that was dark; but this was not so. Above the
center of the large room was a wide open space,
which answered both for chimney and for window.
About the fireplace, which was under the smoke hole,
at the corners of a square, stood four stout posts,
reaching up to and supporting the rafters of the
roof. The floor of the house was swept clean, and all
around the walls were raised platforms, serving for
beds, and separated by screens of straight willow
sticks strung on sinew, from the adjacent bed on
either side. In front of some of the beds similar
screens hung down like curtains so that the bed could
be cut off from the observation of those in the house.
Over the fireplace hung a pot, and two pleasant-faced
women were sitting near it, sewing moccasins. They
looked up pleasantly, as the strangers stood in the
doorway, and Hugh spoke a few words to them, to
which they made some answer. Then the strangers
withdrew.
Keeping on through the village, they walked out
on the higher prairie, toward the tribal burying-ground,
but not such a burying-ground as Jack was
accustomed to see. Here were placed the dead,
wrapped up in bundles, on platforms raised on four
poles, eight or ten feet above the ground. Evidently
no attention was paid to them after burial, for many
of the poles which supported the platforms had rotted
and fallen down, and, in the older part of the
graveyard the ground was strewn with pieces of old
robes and clothing, and with white bones.
Hugh told Jack that farther away, and down on
lower ground, where the soil was moist, the Rees,
Mandans, and Gros Ventres had farms, where they
raised corn, beans, pumpkins, and squashes, and that
in old times they used to raise tobacco.
It was now time to return to the boat, for the wait
was to be only a short one, and on their way back he
told of something that had happened not many years
before in the Mandan village.
"The people were hungry," said Hugh, "and there
was no food in camp. They sent young men off in
all directions to look for buffalo, but none could be
found. As the people grew hungrier and hungrier
the White Cow Society made up their minds that
they would give a dance, and try to bring the buffalo.
They did this, and danced for a long time; but no
buffalo were found, and there were no signs that any
were coming. Still the people of the White Cow
Society danced, and still the other people watched
them, and prayed that they might bring the buffalo.
One day, after they'd danced for ten days, suddenly
a big noise was heard in the village, and when the
people rushed out of the lodges to see what was happening,
there, among the lodges, was a big buffalo
bull, charging about right close to the lodge in which
the White Cow Society were dancing. All the dogs
in the village seemed to be about him, barking at his
head, and biting at his heels, and he was trying only
to get away, and paying no attention to the Indians
that were all about him.
"Then everybody was glad, for all could see that
the Master of Life had sent this bull, to answer their
prayers; and all believed that he had come ahead of
the main herd, which would soon follow him. Before
he had got out of the village, the bull was shot. The
White Cow Society came out of their lodge, and
danced around the village, and while they were doin'
this, one of the scouts came in, and reported that a
big band of cows was not far off. Then everybody
was glad, and all wondered at the strong medicine of
the White Cow Society. The next day the men went
out and made a surround, and killed plenty of cows,
and brought in the meat, and there came a terrible
storm, and when the storm cleared off the whole
prairie, beyond the ridge near Knife River, was black
with buffalo. Now there was plenty in the camp, and
every one was happy. The men went out and
brought in fat meat, and it was dried, and no more
that winter was there any suffering for food."
"That's a good story, Hugh," said Jack, "but do
you suppose the dancing of the White Cow Society
really brought the buffalo?"
"I couldn't tell you, son. The Indians believed it
did, but I don't suppose any white folks would. But
I've seen so many queer things follow these medicine
performances that I don't know what to think about
them, myself."
By this time they had reached the shore, and looking
around, as they passed over the gang-plank to
the deck, they saw the captain and purser coming
down the trail just behind them. The deck hands
were already beginning to cast off the fasts, and a
moment later the whistle sounded, the boat's nose
turned out into the river, and the steady thump,
thump of the paddle-wheel began again. On the bank
stood the three or four white men belonging to the
agency, and up and down the bottom, and clustered
in little groups on the bluffs, were Indians, dressed
in buckskin, or in bright-colored cloth, who stood
motionless, watching the steamer as she slowly moved
away.
"That's a mighty interesting place, Hugh; and I
want to get you to tell me all about it. Who are the
Gros Ventres, and who are the Mandans? You've
told me about the Rees, but I want to know about
the others."
"Well, son," said Hugh, "I don't know as I can
tell you very much about them, but I'll try. The
Gros Ventres are close relations to the Crows; in fact,
many people call them the River Crows, to distinguish
them from the real Crows, that live up close to
the mountains, on the head of the Yellowstone.
Those fellows are called the Mountain Crows, and
there's a good many more of them than there are of
these. These people, I suppose, got their name, Gros
Ventres, from the French, and I never heard why it
was given to 'em. I never could see that they were
any fatter, or had any bigger bellies, than other
Indians, and I never found out any reason for the
name. They don't call themselves by any such name
as that; their name for themselves is Hi dăt sa, and
that's said to mean, willows. Anyhow, they used to
be called Willow Indians; so I have been told.
"In old times, they say that there were three tribes
of them, but the other tribes have been lost, or forgotten,
and now they're all together—all one bunch
of Indians. There's one thing you want to remember,
that there are two different outfits of Indians, both
called Gros Ventres; one of them, these people here,
whom we know as the Gros Ventres of the Village, or
Gros Ventres of the Missouri; the others are the
Gros Ventres of the Prairie, whose country is east of
the Blackfoot country, and who used to be friendly
with the Blackfeet, and then fought them for a long
time, and now are friendly again. Those Gros
Ventres of the Prairie are no kin at all to these people,
but are a part of the Arapahoes, from whom,
according to the old story, they split off a long, long
time ago. They talk the Arapahoe language, and
call the Arapahoes their own people, and still visit
them back and forth. Nowadays they have an
agency along with the Assinaboines, further west, at
Fort Belknap, over on Milk River. Ninety-nine men
out of every hundred get these Arapahoes and these
River Crows mixed up, just for the reason that the
French called them both Gros Ventres. Don't you
ever do that, because when a man makes that mistake
it shows that he don't know nothing about
Indians. Try to remember that, will you?"
"Of course I will, Hugh. I don't want to make
any mistakes, especially now since I have been out
and seen something of real Indians. People back
East, and especially all the fellows at school, think
that I know everything about Indians now. They're
all the time asking me questions about them, who
they are, and where they live, and I should hate to
make any mistakes in my answers. Now tell me,
who are the Mandans?"
"I don't know as much about the Mandans as I do
about the Gros Ventres of the Village," said Hugh,
"and yet I've heard a lot about them. They're a kind
of queer people; lots of 'em used to have yellow hair
and gray eyes, and lots of 'em now have gray-haired
children, same as you have seen among the Blackfeet.
I got hold of a book once with lots of pictures of
Indians in it; mighty good pictures, too, they were.
'T was written by a man named Catlin, who came up
the river, painting pictures of Indians, a long time
ago; maybe fifty years. He said he thought the
Mandans were Welshmen, and told some story about
some foreign prince that brought a colony of Welshmen
over here, and Catlin thought that maybe the
Mandans were descended from that colony. Anyhow
they've lived by themselves, so the story goes, for
a great many years; but I've heard the old men say
that long, long ago the tribe came from away back
East somewhere. They followed down a big river
that ran from east to west, likely it may have been
the Ohio River, until they came to the Mississippi,
and then they struck off northwest, and camped on
the Missouri, and they have been traveling up the
Missouri, a little way at a time, for an almighty sight
o' years.
"This book of Catlin's that I tell you about has
got a whole lot o' stuff about the Mandans, and it is
mighty good readin'. You had better get hold of it
sometime when you get back East; it'll tell you more
about 'em than I can. The Mandans have always
been farmers, and raised good crops of corn, and that
and their buffalo give them a pretty good living.
But now the buffalo are getting scarce, and when
they give out the Mandans will have to live on
straight corn, I am afraid. There's one thing about
the Mandans that's worth rememberin', they make the
best pots of any people that I know of on the plains.
I expect that in old times maybe the Pawnees made
just as good pots, but since the white folks began to
bring brass and copper kettles into the country the
Pawnees have forgotten how to make pots; but the
Mandans still keep it up, and make some pots, big
and little——"
"Oh, Hugh!" called Jack at this moment, "Look
at the buffalo!" and he pointed toward the high
bluffs on the south side of the river, and there were
three dark spots, running as hard as they could up the
hill.
"Sure enough," said Hugh, "there's the first
buffalo we've seen. Don't they look like three rats
scuttling off over the hills, as fast as they can go.
Before long, now, we ought to see plenty of 'em
along the river; though we ain't likely to see many
buffalo before we get above Buford."
The boat pushed slowly up the river's muddy current,
and Hugh and Jack continued to talk about the
Indian village on the hill.
"A mighty queer thing happened once at that
village, son," said Hugh. "You've heard, maybe, that
in some tribes of Indians they have sort of prophets,
or men that foretell things that are going to happen.
I have seen a little of that sort of thing myself, that I
never could explain. Besides that, they've got some
way of learning news that we don't understand anything
about. Of course it may not be as quick as
railroads and telegraphs, but its quick. Let me tell
you something that happened there at Berthold, some
years ago, and the man that it happened to lives
in the upper country now, and you may likely run
across him some time when you are up there. He is
a Dutchman, and his name is Joe Butch.
"Along in 1868, Joe was working at Berthold, for a
trader there, and the trader got into some sort of a
quarrel about a horse with old White Cow, chief of
the Mandans, and I guess old White Cow was pretty
sassy, and maybe he threatened to do something, and
Joe killed him. Well, as soon as he had killed the
old man, Joe he knew that that wasn't no place for
him, because the Mandans would be pretty sure to kill
him; so he hops onto his horse, and rides as hard as
he could for Buford, that's eighty miles up the river,
next place we stop at. When he got to Buford he
found there a big camp of Assinaboines, and they
were having a big dance, because the chief of the
Mandans, their enemies, had just been killed. Now,
how do you suppose those Assinaboines knew that
White Cow had been killed? Joe didn't waste no
time getting onto his horse, and he rode as hard as
he could to Buford; and its a sure thing that nobody
got there before him with the news. I never understood
how they found that out, and I never expect
to."
"That seems a wonderful thing, Hugh," said Jack.
"I don't see how they could have found it out if
nobody told them, and if there were no telegraphs."
"Well, it's sure there were no telegraphs," said
Hugh, "and I don't see how anybody could have
told them. Joe killed the man, and started on his
ride right off, and had a good horse. That's one of
the things that always beat me."
The hours passed swiftly by for Jack and Hugh, as
they watched the river banks on either side. The
boat had met a flood of water just above Berthold,
which, if it made progress against the strong current
more slow, nevertheless saved time by deepening the
water, so that they did not run aground on sand-bars.
Several times during the morning, antelope were seen
feeding in the bottom, lifting their heads to gaze at
the boat, as it puffed and snorted along, but not
being enough alarmed to take to flight. After supper
that night, as they sat on the deck about sundown,
Hugh, watching the banks, pointed out no less than
three distant spots on the wide bottom, which he
told Jack were bears digging roots. They were a
long way off, yet with his glasses Jack was able to
make out their forms, and to recognize them as bears.