AN EXCURSION.
MANY a nice walk about the streets of Naples did our dear happy
little couple take with Mamma and Papa, and into many a
shop did they go, completely fascinated with the pretty goods
displayed there. They longed to buy up everything they saw, and, if
they had been allowed a larger portion of coin than Papa good-naturedly
gave them each day, I don't know how many wonderful things they
would have purchased.
They enjoyed the street scenes, too, as they walked along. The
long-eared donkeys, which carried on either side of their short round
backs such enormous and heavily loaded paniers that sometimes all you
could see of the little animals were their slender legs, their long wagging
ears, and their tails. But they didn't seem to mind their burdens
at all, and plodded along thinking their own donkey thoughts, and no
doubt wondering what Teddy and Polly were laughing at them for!
And then there were the little shops where fruits were sold, and over
the doorways of which were hanging great branches full of oranges and
lemons, just as the boughs were broken from the trees (as we in our
country, you know, like to break a bough hanging full of cherries from
our cherry-trees).
It was wonderful to Polly and Teddy to see such a sight, and
to see, as they had seen at their meals in the hotel, those large oval
lemons and the golden round oranges served to the hotel guests on the
stems, with the clustering leaves adorning them. (You don't see such
things as those in New York, do you?)
Well, and then there were the beautiful gardens, rising one above
the other in a bewildering mass of foliage of orange, lemon, and olive
trees rich in fruit. Those gardens belonged to the wealthy class of
Neapolitans, and their pretty dwelling-houses stood amongst the gardens
on their terraces, overlooking the city like sentinels on the hills.
There were queer streets—side streets they were—which consisted
only of a series of stone steps running straight up hill, like steps
dug out of a steep cliff-side; and along the sides of those "step-streets,"
as Teddy called them, were little bits of houses and shops scooped out of
the walls of the terraces and made comfortable, after a fashion, for
those who lived in them, and who kept their tiny stores.
Polly and Teddy looked up at them as they passed, and noticed
that the stone steps—from top to bottom—were swarming with children,
men, and women, and nearly all of them, even the wee little
people, carried baskets and various burdens as easily on their heads as
in their hands; and the strange part was that some of those bundles,
which were poised so safely on the heads, would have made a fair load
for a horse, so large were they.
Another funny thing the little couple were greatly interested in
was the sight of those peculiar decorations each horse, donkey, and
cow, and even the oxen were wearing when in harness. It consisted
of a long feather, as though from a rooster's tail, which was stuck
securely over the animal's forehead, and waved and waggled to and
fro as the animal walked along.
When there was no feather to be seen, there was always a tuft
of hair or a tuft of fur fastened in place either between the animal's ears
or on the harness, and it was considered a very wrong thing if either
of those peculiar decorations was forgotten when harnessing.
Why? Well, because, unfortunately, the lower classes of Italians
have many foolish superstitions, and that is one of them, for they
fancy that "ill luck" is kept off and the "evil eye" of misfortune
turned aside by the use of the feathers, the hair, or the fur in the manner
I have described.
Polly and Teddy agreed that it was a very silly idea, and I'm afraid
they didn't have much respect for the drivers of the animals they saw
decorated in that absurd style.
One day Papa and Mamma took the children to the island of
Capri. They had seen the island from their windows rising out of the
bay in the distance, and the guide-book told them that it would be a
fine excursion on a fair day. So they started off one lovely morning
in the little excursion boat that takes passengers to and fro between
Naples and the island of Capri and other points of interest in the bay.
I cannot take time to give all the particulars of the boat trip and
its delights, but must tell you about the famous "Blue Grotto," which
they reached before arriving at Capri.
The "Blue Grotto" is a cave in the rocks of one of the cliffs, and
when the water is smooth a row-boat can be paddled through the low
opening which makes the mouth of the cave; but in rough weather no
boat can make the passage, as the opening is so very small.
The rock on one side of the cave does not go to the bottom, but
is only sunken a little way below the water. So the sunlight strikes
down under the rock, as well as under the entrance hole, and is reflected
upwards again through the water in the cave, which causes a wonderful
silvery light, and a beautiful pale blue tint to the water and the roof of
the cave.
Visitors to Capri always stop at the "Blue Grotto" on the way,
and when the big boat—the excursion boat—stops at that part of the
cliff there are a crowd of men in little row-boats, waiting to take passengers
who wish to go into the cave and show them the wonders of it,
for a small coin each passenger. So of course our little couple must see
it, and so must Mamma. Papa, who had seen it all once before (when
he and Mamma had taken a trip alone, before Polly could remember),
did not go, for the boatman would only carry three passengers on the
trip.
You may imagine how they enjoyed it, and when they saw a boatman
from another boat jump over into the water and splash about to
show his passengers how like a silver blue water-sprite he could look
the children gave one of their delighted whoops right there, and then
nearly fell out of their own boat with fright at the loud strange echo
the cave gave back at their shout.
Well, after the passengers returned from the cave, the steamboat
went on its way, and in due time the landing at Capri was made, and
the passengers were told that they would have two hours of time in
which to see everything of interest on the beautiful island, before the
boat should start on to Sorrento (which is another charming resort not
far from Capri).
Such a crowd of donkey boys and donkey girls as were on the dock
when the steamboat stopped! They were all yelling at one time, trying
to coax passengers to use their donkeys or their cabs, and pay them
so much per hour.
"The Blue Grotto of Capri."
Now, you see, Capri is a funny sort of island, for it is "taller than
it is broad," as people say. It rises right out of the bay in a lot of terraced
cliffs, and as far up as you can see it is just a mass of green gardens
and woods.
At the base of the island are the village streets, and odd little
houses, and shops and hotels, and at one of the hotels our party of
four ate a good dinner, before taking a carriage up the mountain road
to Anacapri, a funny little bit of a village right at the very top of the
island.
When the dinner was finished Mamma and Papa took the back
seat in the open little "victoria" (as the carriage was called, though
it was very small and crampy in its proportions), and the little couple,
gay as larks, and wide-eyed with wonder, sat close together on the
small footstool of a seat in front of the "grown-ups," and with a
crack of the whip (which the horse didn't even jump at, because he is
so used to it, and best of all, because the "crack" is only in the air and
not against his bony sides) they all started off for "Anacapri."
I could tell you of a great many things they saw on the way, and
of the natives they passed, who bobbed and curtsied to the travelers,
and showed their white teeth, and held up their little brown babies, hoping
for the gift of a coin or two. And I would like to describe the
magnificent sight of the olive-gardens, and of the trees hanging full of
lemons and oranges, and of the beautiful flowering vines which grew
by the roadside, and the shade trees, and particularly of the grand sight
which greeted their eyes with every turn of the winding road which
brought the Bay of Naples (stretching itself far and wide and dotted
all over with odd little ships and boats) into view. But I must skip all
those things, and get you at last with the dear little couple to the mite of
a village mentioned as "Anacapri."
From there our friends looked right down upon the bay and over
at Naples, and if they had been little birds they would have spread
their wings and taken a good fly into the blue sunny space before them—at
least, that is what Teddy whispered in Polly's ear he would like
to do.