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Of the diuision of the whole earth. |
2 |
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Of the position, circuit, forme, and quantitie of the Ile of Britaine. |
4 |
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Of the ancient denominations of this Iland. |
6 |
| 4 |
What sundrie nations haue dwelled in Albion. |
9 |
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Whether it be likelie that anie giants were, and whether they
inhabited in this Ile or not. |
14 |
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Of the languages spoken in this Iland. |
22 |
| 7 |
Into how manie kingdoms this Iland hath beene diuided. |
26 |
| 8 |
The names of such kings and princes as haue reigned in this Iland. |
31 |
| 9 |
Of the ancient religion vsed in Albion. |
33 |
| 10 |
Of such Ilands as are to be seene vpon the coasts of Britaine. |
52 |
| 11 |
Of riuers, and first of the Thames, and such riuers as fall into it. |
78 |
| 12 |
Of such streames as fall into the sea, betweene the Thames and the
mouth of Sauerne. |
91 |
| 13 |
The description of the Sauerne, and such waters as discharge
themselues into the same. |
117 |
| 14 |
Of such waters as fall into the sea in compasse of the Iland,
betweene the Sauerne and the Humber. |
123 |
| 15 |
The description of the Humber or Isis, and such water-courses as
doo increase hir chanell. |
156 |
| 16 |
Of such fals of waters as ioine with the sea, betweene Humber and
the Thames. |
168 |
| 17 |
Of such ports and creeks as our sea-faring men doo note for
their benefit vpon the coasts of England. |
181 |
| 18 |
Of the aire, soile, and commodities of this Iland. |
183 |
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Of the foure high waies sometime made in Britaine by the princes
of this Iland. |
189 |
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Of the generall constitution of the bodies of the Britons. |
192 |
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How Britaine at the first grew to be diuided into three portions. |
195 |
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After what maner the souereigntie of this Ile dooth remaine to
the princes of Lhoegres or kings of England. |
196 |
| 23 |
Of the wall sometime builded for a partition betweene England and
the Picts and Scots. |
214 |
| 24 |
Of the maruels of England. |
216 |
Noah first diuided the earth among his sonnes.
We read that the earth hath beene diuided into thrée parts, euen sithens
the generall floud. And the common opinion is, that Noah limited and
bestowed it vpon his three sons, Japhet, Cham, and Sem, preserued with
him in the Arke, giuing vnto each of them such portions thereof as to
him séemed good, and neuerthelesse reteining the souereigntie of the
whole still vnto himselfe: albeit as yet it be left vncertaine how those
seuerall parts were bounded, and from whome they tooke such names as in
our times are attributed to each of them. Certes the words, Asia,
Europa, and Africa, are denominations giuen but of late (to speake of)
vnto them, and it is to be doubted, whether sithens the time of Noah,
the sea hath in sundrie places wonne or lost, added or diminished to and
from each of them; or whether Europa, and Lybia were but one portion;
and the same westerlie regions of late discouered (and now called
America,) was the third part (counting Asia for the second) or the selfe
region of the Atlantides, which Plato and others, for want of traffike
thither in their times, supposed to be dissolued and sunke into the sea:
as by their writings appeereth.
The diuision of the earth not yet certeinlie knowne.
Not long before my time, we reckoned Asia, Europa, and Africa, for a
full and perfect diuision of the whole earth, which are parcels onelie
of that huge Iland that lieth east of the Atlantike sea, and whereof the
first is diuided from the second by Tanais (which riseth in the rocks of
Caucasus, and hideth it selfe in the Meotine moores) and the Ocean sea;
and the last from them both by the Mediterrane and red sea, otherwise
called Mare Erythræum. But now all men, especially the learned, begin to
doubt of the soundnes of that partition; bicause a no lesse part than
the greatest of the thrée ioined with those Ilands and maine which lie
vnder the north and Southpoles, if not double in quantitie vnto the
same, are found out and discouered by the diligence of our trauellers.
Hereby it appeereth, that either the earth was not exactlie diuided in
time past by antiquitie; or els, that the true diuision thereof came not
to the hands and notice of their posteritie, so that our ancestors haue
hitherto as it were laboured in the Cimmerian darkenesse, and were
vtterlie ignorant of the truth of that whereabout they indeuoured to
shew their trauels and knowledge in their writings. Some peece of this
confusion also is to be found amongst the ancient and Romane writers,
who (notwithstanding their large conquests) did sticke in the same mire
with their successors, not being able (as appeereth by their treatises)
to deliuer and set downe the veritie. For Salust in his booke De
Variance among the writers about the
diuision of the earth.
bello Iugurthino cannot tell whether Africa be parcell of Asia or not.
And with the same scruple Varro in his booke De lingua Lat. is not a
litle incumbred, who in the end concludeth, that the whole earth is
diuided into Asia and Europa: so that Africa is excluded and driuen out
of his place. Silius also writeth of Africa, (as one not yet resolued
wherevnto to leane,) that it is;
Aut ingens Asiæ latus, aut pars tertia rerum.
[Page 3]
Wherein Lucane lib. 9. sheweth himselfe to be far of another iudgement,
in that he ascribeth it to Europa, saieng after this maner:
Tertia pars rerum Lybia: si credere famæ
Cuncta velis, si ventos cœlúmque sequaris,
Pars erit Europæ, nec enim plus littora Nili
Quàm Scythicus Tanais primis à gradibus absunt.
Whereby (I saie) we may well vnderstand, that in the time of Augustus
Tiberius, Claudius & Nero, the Romanes were not yet resolued of the
diuision of the earth. For my part, as I indeuour not to remooue the
credit of that which antiquitie hath deliuered (and yet loth to continue
and maintaine any corruption that may be redressed) so I thinke good to
The earth diuided into fiue parts, whereas Belforest
hath but foure, in Prefat. lib. 4.
giue foorth a new diuision more probable, & better agreeing with a
truth. And therefore I diuide the whole into fiue seuerall parcels,
reteining the common diuision in the first three, as before; and vnto
the fourth allowing not onelie all that portion that lieth by north of
the Magellan streicts, and those Hyperborean Ilands which lie west of
the line of longitude, of late discouered by Frobisher, and called by
hir Maiestie Meta incognita: but likewise so manie Ilands as are within
180. degrees Westwards from our beginning or common line of longitude,
whereby they are parted from those, which by this diuision are allotted
vnto Asia, and the portion it selfe made equipollent with the same for
greatnes, and far excéeding either Europa or Africa, if it be not fullie
so much in quantitie as they both vnited and laid togither. The fift &
last part is the Antartike portion with hir Ilands annexed, that region
(I meane) which lieth vnder the South pole, cut off from America, or the
fourth part by the Magellan streicts; & from Africa by the sea which
Cape di bona Speranza.
passeth by the Cape of good hope; a countrie no lesse large for limits
and bounds than Africa or America, and therefore right worthie to be
called the fift: howsoeuer it shall please the curious to mislike of
this diuision. This also I will adde, that albeit the continent hereof
doo not extend it selfe vnto the verie Antartike point, but lieth as it
The forme of the fift part.
were a long table betwéene two seas, of which the later is vnder the
South poole, and as I may call it a maine sea vnder the aforesaid
pricke, yet is it not without sundrie Ilands also adjoining vnto it, and
the inner most sea not destitute of manie, as by experience hath béene
of late confirmed. Furthermore, whereas our describers of the earth haue
made it such in their descriptions, as hath reached litle or nothing
into the peaceable sea without the Antartike circle: it is now found by
Theuet and others, that it extendeth it selfe northwards into that
trace, by no small number of leagues, euen in maner to the Equator, in
so much that the westerlie part thereof from America, is supposed to
reach northward so far from the Antartike article, as Africa dooth
southwards from the tropike of Cancer, which is no small portion of
ground; & I maruell why not obserued by such as heretofore haue written
of the same. But they excuse themselues by the ingratitude of the
Portingals and Spaniards, who haue of purpose concealed manie things
found out in their trauell, least they should séeme to open a gap by
dooing otherwise, for strangers to enter into their conquests. As for
those Ilands also which lie in the peaceable sea, scattered here and
there, as Iaua the greater, the lesser Sumatra, Iapan, Burneo, &c: with
a number of other, I refer them still unto Asia, as before, so as they
be without the compasse of 90. degrees eastward from the line of
longitude, & not aboue 180. as I doo the Ile of S. Laurence, and a
number of other vnto Africa within the said proportion, wishing so
little alteration as I may: and yet not yeelding vnto any confusion,
whereby the truth of the diuision should hereafter be impeached.
And whereas by Virgil (speaking of our Iland) saith;
Et penitùs toto diuisos orbe Britannos,
Unto what portion Britaine is referred.
And some other authors not vnworthie to be read and perused, it is not
certeine vnto which portion of the earth our Ilands, and Thule, with
sundrie the like scattered in the north seas should be ascribed, bicause
they excluded them (as you sée) from the rest of the whole earth: I have
[Page 4]
thought good, for facilitie sake of diuision, to refer them all which
lie within the first minute of longitude, set downe by Ptolome, to
Europa, and that as reason requireth: so that the aforesaid line shall
henceforth be their Meta & partition from such as are to be ascribed to
America; albeit they come verie neere vnto the aforesaid portion, & may
otherwise (without prejudice) be numbred with the same. It may be that
some will thinke this my dealing either to be superfluous, or to procéed
from (I wot not what) foolish curiositie: for the world is now growne to
be very apt and readie to iudge the hardest of euerie attempt. But
forsomuch as my purpose is to leaue a plaine report of such matter as I
doo write of, and deliuer such things as I intreat of in distinct and
vpright order; though method now and then doo faile, I will go forward
with my indeuour, referring the examination of my dooings to the
indifferent and learned eare, without regard what the other doo conceiue
and imagine of me. In the meane season therefore it shall suffice to say
at this time, that Albion as the mother, and the rest of the Ilands as
hir daughters, lieng east of the line of longitude, be still ascribed
vnto Europa: wherevnto some good authours heretofore in their writings,
& their owne proper or naturall situations also haue not amisse referred
them.
How Britaine lieth from the maine.
Britannia or Britain, as we now terme it in our English toong, or
Brutania as some pronounce it (by reason of the letter y in the first
syllable of the word, as antiquitie did sometime deliuer it) is an Ile
lieng in the Ocean sea, directlie ouer against that part of France which
conteineth Picardie, Normandie, and thereto the greatest part of little
Britaine, which later region was called in time past Armorica, of the
situation thereof vpon the sea coast, vntill such time as a companie of
Britons (either led ouer by some of the Romane Emperours, or flieng
thither from the tyrannie of such as oppressed them here in this Iland)
did setle themselues there, and called it Britaine, after the name of
their owne countrie, from whence they aduentured thither. It hath
Ireland vpon the west side, on the north the maine sea, euen to Thule
and the Hyperboreans; and on the east side also the Germane Ocean, by
which we passe dailie through the trade of merchandize, not onlie into
the low countries of Belgie, now miserablie afflicted betwéene the
Spanish power and popish inquisition (as spice betweene the morter and
the pestell) but also into Germanie, Friezeland, Denmarke, and Norwaie,
carrieng from hence thither, and bringing from thence hither, all such
necessarie commodities as the seuerall countries doo yeeld: through
which meanes, and besides common amitie conserued, traffike is
mainteined, and the necessitie of each partie abundantlie reléeued.
The longitude and latitude of this Ile.
It conteineth in longitude taken by the middest of the region 19.
degrees exactlie: and in latitude 53. degrées, and thirtie min. after
the opinions of those that haue diligentlie obserued the same in our
daies, and the faithfull report of such writers as haue left notice
thereof vnto vs, in their learned treatises to be perpetuallie
remembred. Howbeit, whereas some in setting downe of these two lines,
haue seemed to varie about the placing of the same, each of them
diuerslie remembring the names of sundrie cities and townes, whereby
they affirme them to haue their seuerall courses: for my part I haue
thought good to procéed somewhat after another sort; that is, by
diuiding the latest and best chards each way into two equall parts (so
neere as I can possiblie bring the same to passe) wherby for the
Longest day.
middle of latitude, I product Caerlile and Newcastell vpon Tine, (whose
longest day consisteth of sixteene houres, 48. minuts) and for the
longitude, Newberie, Warwike, Sheffield, Skipton, &c: which dealing, in
mine opinion, is most easie and indifferent, and likeliest meane to come
by the certeine standing and situation of our Iland.
[Page 5]
The compasse of Britaine.
Touching the length and bredth of the same, I find some variance amongst
writers: for after some, there are from the Piere or point of Douer,
vnto the farthest part of Cornewall westwards 320. miles: from thence
againe to the point of Cathnesse by the Irish sea 800. Wherby Polydore
and other doo gather, that the circuit of the whole Iland of Britaine is
1720. miles, which is full 280. lesse than Cæsar dooth set downe, except
there be some difference betwéene the Romane and British miles, as there
is indeed; wherof hereafter I may make some farther conference.
Martianus writing of the bredth of Britaine, hath onlie 300. miles, but
Orosius hath 1200. in the whole compasse. Ethicus also agreeing with
Plinie, Martianus, and Solinus, hath 800. miles of length, but in the
breadth he commeth short of their account by 120. miles. In like maner
Dion in Seuero maketh the one of 891. miles: but the other; to wit,
where it is broadest, of 289. and where it is narrowest, of 37. Finally,
Diodorus Siculus affirmeth the south coast to conteine 7000. furlongs,
the second; to wit, à Carione ad Promontorium 15000. the third 20000.
and the whole circuit to consist of 42000. But in our time we reckon the
breadth from Douer to Cornewall, not to be aboue 300. miles, and the
length from Douer to Cathnesse, no more than 500. which neuerthelesse
must be measured by a right line, for otherwise I see not how the said
diuision can hold.
The forme.
The forme and fashion of this Ile is thrée-cornered, as some have
deuised, like vnto a triangle, bastard sword, wedge, or partesant, being
broadest in the south part, and gathering still narrower and narrower,
till it come to the farthest point of Cathnesse northward, where it is
narrowest of all, & there endeth in maner of a promontorie called
Caledonium & Orchas in British Morwerydh, which is not aboue 30. miles
ouer, as dailie experience by actuall trauell dooth confirme.
Promontories of Britaine.
The old writers giue vnto the thrée principall corners, crags, points,
and promontories of this Iland, thrée seuerall names. As vnto that of
Kent, Cantium, that of Cornewall, Hellenes, and of Scotland, Caledonium,
and Orchas; and these are called principall, in respect of the other,
which are Taruisium, Nonantum, Epidium, Gangacum, Octapites, Herculeum,
Antiuesteum, Ocrinum, Berubium, Taizalum, Acantium, &c: of which I
thought good also to leaue this notice, to the end that such as shall
come after, may thereby take occasion to seeke out their true places,
wherof as yet I am in maner ignorant, I meane for the most part; bicause
I haue no sound author that dooth leade mée to their knowledge.
The distance from the maine.
Furthermore, the shortest and most vsuall cut that we haue out of our
Iland to the maine, is from Douer (the farthest part of Kent eastward)
unto Calice a towne in Picardie 1300. miles from Rome, in old time
called Petressa and Scalas, though some like better of blacknesse where
the breadth of the sea is not aboue thirtie miles. Which course, as it
is now frequented and vsed for the most common and safe passage of such
as come into our countrie out of France and diuers other realms, so it
hath not beene vnknowne of old time vnto the Romans, who for the most
part vsed these two hauens for their passage and repassage to and fro;
although we finde, that now and then diuerse of them came also from
Bullen, and landed at Sandwich, or some other places of the coast more
toward the west, or betweene Hide and Lid; to wit, Romneie marsh, (which
in old time was called Romania or Romanorum insula) as to auoid the
force of the wind & weather, that often molesteth seafaringmen in these
narrowe seas, best liked them for their safegards. Betweene the part of
Holland also, which lieth néere the mouth of the Rhene and this our
Iland, are 900. furlongs, as Sosimus saith; and besides him, diuers
other writers, which being conuerted into English miles, doo yeeld 112.
and foure od furlongs, whereby the iust distance of the neerest part of
Britaine, from that part of the maine also, dooth certeinlie appéere to
be much lesse than the common maps of our countrie haue hitherto set
downe.
[Page 6]
Dis, Samothes.
In the diligent perusall of their treatises, who haue written of the
state of this our Iland, I find that at the first it séemed to be a
parcell of the Celtike kingdome, whereof Dis otherwise called Samothes,
one of the sonnes of Japhet was the Saturne or originall beginner, and
of him thencefoorth for a long while called Samothea. Afterward in
processe of time, when desire of rule began to take hold in the minds of
men, and ech prince endeuoured to enlarge his owne dominions: Albion the
Neptunus Marioticus.
sonne of Neptune, Amphitrite surnamed Marioticus (bicause his dominions
laie among the ilands of the Mediterran sea, as those of Plutus did on
the lower grounds neere vnto shore, as contrariwise his father Jupiter
dwelled on the high hils néerer to heauen) hearing of the commodities of
The first conquest of Britaine.
the countrie, and plentifulnesse of soile here, made a voiage ouer, and
finding the thing not onelie correspondent vnto, but also farre
surmounting the report that went of this Iland, it was not long after
yer he inuaded the same by force of armes, brought it to his subiection
in the 29. yeare after his grandfathers decease, and finallie changed
the name thereof into Albion, whereby the former denomination after
Samothes did grow out of mind, and fall into vtter forgetfulnesse. And
thus was this Iland bereft at on time both of hir ancient name, and also
of hir lawfull succession of princes descended of the line of Japhet,
Britaine under the Celts 341. yeares.
vnder whom it had continued by the space of 341. yeres and nine princes,
as by the Chronologie following shall easilie appeere.
Goropius our neighbor being verie nice in the denomination of our Iland,
as in most other points of his huge volume of the originall of Antwarpe
lib. 6. (whom Buchanan also followeth in part) is brought into great
doubt, whether Britaine was called Albion of the word Alb, white; or Alp
an hill; as Bodinus is no lesse troubled with fetching the same ab
Oibijs, or as he wresteth it, ab Albijs gallis. But here his
inconstancie appeareth, in that in his Gotthadamca liber. 7. he taketh
no lesse paines to bring the Britaines out of Denmarke, whereby the name
of the Iland should be called Vridania, Freedania, Brithania, or
Bridania, tanquam libera Dania, as another also dooth to fetch the
originall out of Spaine, where Breta signifieth soile or earth. But as
such as walke in darkenesse doo often straie, bicause they wot not
whither they go: euen so doo these men, whilest they séeke to extenuate
the certeintie of our histories, and bring vs altogither to
uncerteinties & their coniectures. They in like maner, which will haue
the Welshmen come from the French with this one question, vnde Walli
nisi a Gallis, or from some Spanish colonie, doo greatlie bewraie their
oversights; but most of all they erre that endeuour to fetch it from
Albine the imagined daughter of a forged Dioclesian, wherewith our
ignorant writers haue of late not a little stained our historie, and
brought the sound part thereof into some discredit and mistrust: but
more of this hereafter.
Neptune God of the sea.
Now to speake somewhat also of Neptune as by the waie (sith I haue made
mention of him in this place) it shall not be altogither impertinent.
Wherfore you shall vnderstand, that for his excellent knowledge in the
art of nauigation (as nauigation then went) he was reputed the most
skilfull prince that liued in his time. And therfore, and likewise for
his courage & boldnesse in aduenturing to and fro, he was after his
decease honoured as a god, and the protection of such as trauelled by
The maner of dressing of ships in old time.
sea committed to his charge. So rude also was the making of ships
wherewith to saile in his time (which were for the most part flat
bottomed and broad) that for lacke of better experience to calke and
trim the same after they were builded, they vsed to naile them ouer with
rawe hides of bulles, buffles, and such like, and with such a kind of
nauie (as they say) first Samothes, & then Albion arriued in this Iland,
which vnto me doth not séeme a thing impossible. The northerlie or
artike regions, doo not naile their ships with iron, which they vtterly
want, but with wooden pins, or els they bind the planks togither verie
artificiallie with bast ropes, osiers, rinds of trées, or twigs of
[Page 7]
popler, the substance of those vessels being either of fir or pine, sith
oke is verie deintie & hard to be had amongst them. Of their wooden
anchors I speake not (which neuerthelesse are common to them, and to the
Gothlanders) more than of ships wrought of wickers, sometime vsed in our
Britaine, and couered with leather euen in the time of Plinie, lib. 7.
cap. 56. as also botes made of rushes and réeds, &c. Neither haue I iust
occasion to speake of ships made of canes, of which sort Staurobates,
king of India fighting against Semiramis, brought 4000. with him and
fought with hir the first battell on the water that euer I read of, and
vpon the riuer Indus, but to his losse, for he was ouercome by hir
power, & his nauie either drowned or burned by the furie of hir
souldiers.
But to proceed, when the said Albion had gouerned here in this countrie
by the space of seauen yeares, it came to passe that both he and his
brother Bergion were killed by Hercules at the mouth of Rhodanus, as the
said Hercules passed out of Spaine by the Celtes to go ouer into Italie,
and vpon this occasion (as I gather among the writers) not vnworthie to
Lestrigo.
be remembred. It happened in time of Lucus king of the Celts, that
Lestrigo and his issue (whom Osyris his grandfather had placed ouer the
Janigenes were the posteritie of Noah in Italie.
Janigenes) did exercise great tyrannie, not onelie ouer his owne
kingdome, but also in molestation of such princes as inhabited round
about him in most intollerable maner. Moreouer he was not a little
incouraged in these his dooings by Neptune his father, who thirsted
Neptune had xxxiii. sonnes.
greatly to leaue his xxxiii. sonnes settled in the mightiest kingdoms of
the world, as men of whom he had alreadie conceiued this opinion, that
if they had once gotten foot into any region whatsoeuer, it would not be
long yer they did by some meanes or other, not onelie establish their
seats, but also increase their limits to the better maintenance of
themselues and their posteritie for euermore. To be short therefore,
after the giants, and great princes, or mightie men of the world had
conspired and slaine the aforsaid Osyris, onlie for that he was an
obstacle vnto them in their tyrannous dealing; Hercules his sonne,
surnamed Laabin, Lubim, or Libius, in the reuenge of his fathers death,
proclaimed open warres against them all, and going from place to place,
he ceased not to spoile their kingdomes, and therewithall to kill them
with great courage that fell into his hands. Finallie, hauing among
Lomnimi. Geriones.
sundrie other ouercome the Lomnimi or Geriones in Spaine, and
vnderstanding that Lestrigo and his sonnes did yet remaine in Italie, he
directed his viage into those parts, and taking the kingdome of the
Celts in his waie, he remained for a season with Lucus the king of that
countrie, where he also maried his daughter Galathea, and begat a sonne
Galathea. Galates, or Kelts.
by hir, calling him after his mothers name Galates, of whom in my said
Chronologie I haue spoken more at large.
In the meane time Albion vnderstanding how Hercules intended to make
warres against his brother Lestrigo, he thought good if it were possible
Bergion.
to stop him that tide, and therefore sending for his brother Bergion out
of the Orchades (where he also reigned as supreame Pomponius
Mela cap. de Gallia. lord and gouernour) they ioined their powers, and
sailed ouer into France. Being arriued there, it was not long yer they
met with Hercules and his armie, neare vnto the mouth of the riuer
called Roen (or the Rhodanus) where happened a cruell conflict betwéene
them, in which Hercules and his men were like to haue lost the day, for
that they were in maner wearied with long warres, and their munition
sore wasted in the last viage that he had made for Spaine. Herevpon
Hercules perceiuing the courages of his souldiours somewhat to abate,
and seeing the want of artillerie like to be the cause of his fatall
daie and present ouerthrowe at hand, it came suddenlie into his mind to
will each of them to defend himselfe by throwing stones at his enimie,
Strabo, lib. 4.
whereof there laie great store then scattered in the place. The policie
was no sooner published than hearkened vnto and put in execution,
whereby they so preuailed in the end, that Hercules wan the field, their
enimies were put to flight, and Albion and his brother both slaine, and
buried in that plot. Thus was Britaine rid of a tyrant, Lucus king of
the Celts deliuered from an vsurper (that dailie incroched vpon him,
building sundrie cities and holds, of which some were placed among the
Alps & called after his owne name, and other also euen in his owne
kingdome on that side) and Lestrigo greatlie weakened by the slaughter
of his brethren. Of this inuention of Hercules in like sort it commeth,
[Page 8]
that Jupiter father vnto Hercules (who indeed was none other but Osyris)
is feigned to throw downe stones from heauen vpon Albion and Bergion, in
the defense of his sonne: which came so thicke vpon them, as if great
drops of raine or haile should haue descended from aboue, no man well
knowing which waie to turne him from their force, they came so fast and
with so great a violence.
But to go forward, albeit that Albion and his power were thus
discomfited and slaine, yet the name that he gaue unto this Iland died
not, but still remained vnto the time of Brute, who arriuing héere in
the 1116. before Christ, and 2850. after the creation of the world, not
onelie changed it into Britaine (after it had beene called Albion, by
the space of about 600. yeares) but to declare his souereigntie ouer the
rest of the Ilands also that lie scattered round about it, he called
them all after the same maner, so that Albion was said in time to be
Britanniarum insula maxima, that is, The greatest of those Iles that
beare the name of Britaine, which Plinie also confirmeth, and Strabo in
his first and second bookes denieth not. There are some, which vtterlie
denieng that this Iland tooke hir name of Brute, doo affirme it rather
to be so called of the rich mettals sometime carried from the mines
there into all the world as growing in the same. Vibius Sequester also
saith that Calabria was sometime called Britannia, Ob immensam
affluentiam totius delitiæ atque vbertatis, that was to be found
heerein. Other contend that it should be written with P (Pritannia.) All
which opinions as I absolutelie denie not, so I willinglie leane vnto
none of them in peremptorie maner, sith the antiquitie of our historie
carrieth me withall vnto the former iudgements. And for the same cause I
reiect them also, which deriue the aforesaid denomination from Britona
the nymph, in following Textor (or Prutus or Prytus the sonne of Araxa)
which Britona was borne in Creta daughter to Mars, and fled by sea from
thence onelie to escape the villanie of Minos, who attempted to rauish
and make hir one of his paramours: but if I should forsake the
authoritie of Galfride, I would rather leane to the report of
Parthenius, whereof elsewhere I haue made a more large rehersall.
It is altogither impertinent, to discusse whether Hercules came into
this Iland after the death of Albion, or not, although that by an
ancient monument seene of late, as I heare, and the cape of Hartland or
Harcland in the West countrie (called Promontorium Herculis in old time)
diuers of our British antiquaries doo gather great likelihood that he
should also be here. But sith his presence or absence maketh nothing
with the alteration of the name of this our region and countrie, and to
search out whether the said monument was but some token erected in his
honour of later times (as some haue beene elsewhere, among the Celts
framed, & those like an old criple with a bow bent in one hand & a club
in the other, a rough skin on his backe, the haire of his head all to be
matted like that of the Irishmens, and drawing manie men captiue after
him in chaines) is but smallie auailable, and therefore I passe it ouer
as not incident to my purpose. Neither will I spend any time in the
determination, whether Britaine had beene sometime a parcell of the
maine, although it should well séeme so to haue beene, bicause that
before the generall floud of Noah, we doo not read of Ilands, more than
of hils and vallies. Wherfore as Wilden Arguis also noteth in his
philosophie and tractation of meteors, it is verie likelie that they
were onelie caused by the violent motion and working of the sea, in the
time of the floud, which if S. Augustine had well considered, he would
neuer haue asked how such creatures as liued in Ilands far distant from
the maine could come into the arke, De ciuit. lib. 16. cap. 7. howbeit
in the end he concludeth with another matter more profitable than his
demand.
As for the speedie and timelie inhabitation thereof, this is mine
opinion, to wit, that it was inhabited shortlie after the diuision of
the earth. For I read that when each capteine and his companie had their
portions assigned vnto them by Noah in the partition that he made of the
whole among his posteritie, they neuer ceased to trauell and search out
the vttermost parts of the same, vntill they found out their bounds
allotted, and had seene and vewed their limits, euen vnto the verie
poles. It shall suffice therefore onelie to haue touched these things in
this manner a farre off, and in returning to our purpose, to proceed
with the rest concerning the denomination of our Iland, which was knowne
[Page 9]
Yet Timeus, Ephorus, and some of the Grecians,
know the name Britannia, as appeareth also by Diodorus, &c.
before the comming of Cesar.
vnto most of the Gréekes for a long time, by none other name than
Albion, and to saie the truth, euen vnto Alexanders daies, as appeareth
by the words of Aristotle in his De mundo, and to the time of Ptolomie:
notwithstanding that Brute, as I haue said, had changed the same into
Britaine, manie hundred yeares before.
After Brutus I doo not find that anie men attempted to change it againe,
vntill the time that Theodosius, in the daies of Valentinianus and
Valens endeuoured, in the remembrance of the two aforesaid Emperours, to
call it Valentia, as Marcellinus saith. But as this deuise tooke no hold
among the common sort, so it retained still the name of Britaine, vntill
the reigne of Ecbert, who about the 800. yeare of Grace, and first of
his reigne, gaue foorth an especiall edict, dated at Winchester, that it
should be called Angles land, or Angel-landt, for which in our time we
doo pronounce it England. And this is all (right honorable) that I haue
to say, touching the seuerall names of this Iland, vtterlie misliking in
the meane season their deuises, which make Hengist the onlie parent of
the later denomination, whereas Ecbert, bicause his ancestours descended
from the Angles one of the sixe nations that came with the Saxons into
Britaine (for they were not all of one, but of diuers countries, as
Angles, Saxons, Germans, Switzers, Norwegiens, Jutes otherwise called
Jutons, Vites, Gothes or Getes, and Vandals, and all comprehended vnder
the name of Saxons, bicause of Hengist the Saxon and his companie that
first arriued here before anie of the other) and therto hauing now the
monarchie and preheminence in maner of this whole Iland, called the
Of this opinion is Belforest, lib. 3. cap. 44.
same after the name of the countrie from whence he derived his
originall, neither Hengist, neither anie Queene named Angla, neither
whatsoeuer deriuation ab Angulo, as from a corner of the world bearing
swaie, or hauing ought to doo at all in that behalfe.
As few or no nations can iustlie boast themselues to haue continued
sithence their countrie was first replenished, without any mixture, more
or lesse, of forreine inhabitants; no more can this our Iland, whose
manifold commodities haue oft allured sundrie princes and famous
capteines of the world to conquer and subdue the same vnto their owne
subiection. Manie sorts of people therfore haue come in hither and
settled themselues here in this Ile, and first of all other, a parcell
Samotheans.]
of the linage and posteritie of Japhet, brought in by Samothes in the
1910. after the creation of Adam. Howbeit in processe of time, and after
they had indifferentlie replenished and furnished this Iland with people
(which was doone in the space of 335. yeares) Albion the giant afore
mentioned, repaired hither with a companie of his owne race procéeding
from Cham, and not onelie annexed the same to his owne dominion, but
brought all such in like sort as he found here of the line of Japhet,
into miserable seruitude and most extreame thraldome. After him also,
Britains.
Chemminits.
and within lesse than sixe hundred and two yeares, came Brute the sonne
of Syluius with a great traine of the posteritie of the dispersed
Troians in 324. ships: who rendering the like courtesie vnto the
Chemminits as they had doone before unto the séed of Japhet, brought
them also wholie vnder his rule and gouernance, and dispossessing the
peeres & inferior owners of their lands and possessions, he diuided the
countrie among such princes and capteines as he in his arriuall here had
led out of Grecia with him.
Romans.
From hencefoorth I doo not find any sound report of other nation
whatsoeuer, that should aduenture hither to dwell, and alter the state
of the land, vntill the Romane emperours subdued it to their dominion,
sauing of a few Galles, (and those peraduenture of Belgie) who first
comming ouer to rob and pilfer vpon the coasts, did afterward plant
themselues for altogither neere vnto the shore, and there builded
sundrie cities and townes which they named after those of the maine,
[Page 10]
from whence they came vnto vs. And this is not onelie to be gathered out
of Cesar where he writeth of Britaine of set purpose, but also
elsewhere, as in his second booke a little after the beginning: for
speaking of Deuiaticus king of the Swessions liuing in his time, he
affirmeth him not onelie to be the mightiest prince of all the Galles,
but also to hold vnder his subiection the Ile of Britaine, of which his
sonne Galba was afterward dispossessed. But after the comming of the
Romans, it is hard to say with how manie sorts of people we were dailie
pestered, almost in euery steed. For as they planted their forworne
legions in the most fertile places of the realme, and where they might
best lie for the safegard of their conquests: so their armies did
commonlie consist of manie sorts of people, and were (as I may call
them) a confused mixture of all other countries and nations then liuing
in the world. Howbeit, I thinke it best, bicause they did all beare the
title of Romans, to reteine onelie that name for them all, albeit they
were wofull ghests to this our Iland: sith that with them came all maner
of vice and vicious liuing, all riot and excesse of behauiour into our
countrie, which their legions brought hither from each corner of their
dominions; for there was no prouince vnder them from whence they had not
seruitours.
Scots.
Picts.
How and when the Scots, a people mixed of the Scithian and Spanish
blood, should arriue here out of Ireland, & when the Picts should come
vnto vs out of Sarmatia, or from further toward the north & the Scithian
Hyperboreans, as yet it is vncerteine. For though the Scotish histories
doo carrie great countenance of their antiquitie in this Iland: yet (to
saie fréelie what I thinke) I iudge them rather to haue stolne in hither
within the space of 100. yeares before Christ, than to haue continued
here so long as they themselues pretend, if my coniecture be any thing.
Yet I denie not, but that as the Picts were long planted in this Iland
before the Scots aduentured to settle themselues also in Britaine; so
the Scots did often aduenture hither to rob and steale out of Ireland,
and were finallie called in by the Meats or Picts (as the Romans named
them, because they painted their bodies) to helpe them against the
Britains, after the which they so planted themselues in these parts,
that vnto our time that portion of the land cannot be cleansed of them.
I find also that as these Scots were reputed for the most Scithian-like
and barbarous nation, and longest without letters; so they vsed commonlie
to steale ouer into Britaine in leather skewes, and began to helpe the
Picts about or not long before the beginning of Cesars time. For both
Diodorus lib. 6. and Strabo lib. 4. doo seeme to speake of a parcell of
the Irish nation that should inhabit Britaine in their time, which were
giuen to the eating of mans flesh, and therefore called Anthropophagi.
Mamertinus in like sort dooth note the Redshanks and the Irish (which
are properlie the Scots) to be the onelie enimies of our nation, before
the comming of Cæsar, as appeareth in his panegyricall oration, so that
hereby it is found that they are no new ghestes in Britaine. Wherefore
all the controuersie dooth rest in the time of their first attempt to
inhabit in this Iland. Certeinlie I maruell much whie they trauell not
to come in with Cantaber and Partholonus: but I see perfectlie that this
shift should be too grosse for the maintenance of their desired
antiquitie. Now, as concerning their name, the Saxons translated the
word Scotus for Irish: whereby it appeareth that those Irish, of whom
Strabo and Diodorus doo speake, are none other than those Scots, of whom
Ierome speaketh Aduersus Iouinianum, lib. 2. who vsed to feed on the
buttocks of boies and womens paps, as delicate dishes. Aethicus writing
of the Ile of Man, affirmeth it to be inhabited with Scots so well as
Ireland euen in his time. Which is another proofe that the Scots and
Irish are all one people. They were also called Scoti by the Romans,
bicause their Iland & originall inhabitation thereof were vnknowne, and
they themselues an obscure nation in the sight of all the world.
Of the Picts.
Now as concerning the Picts, whatsoeuer Ranulphus Hygden imagineth to
the contrarie of their latter enterance, it is easie to find by Herodian
and Mamertinus (of which the one calleth them Meates, the other
Redshankes and Pictones) that they were setled in this Ile long before
the time of Seuerus, yea of Cæsar, and comming of the Scots. Which is
proofe sufficient, if no further authoritie remained extant for the
same. So that the controuersie lieth not in their comming also, but in
[Page 11]
the true time of their repaire and aduenture into this Iland out of the
Orchades (out of which they gat ouer into the North parts of our
countrie, as the writers doo report) and from whence they came at the
first into the aforsaid Ilands. For my part I suppose with other, that
they came hither out of Sarmatia or Scythia: for that nation hauing had
alwaies an eie vnto the commodities of our countrie, hath sent out manie
companies to inuade and spoile the same. It may be that some will
gather, those to be the Picts, of whom Cæsar saith that they stained
their faces with wad and madder, to the end they might appeare terrible
and feareful to their enimies; and so inferre that the Picts were
naturall Britans. But it is one thing to staine the face onelie as the
Britans did, of whom Propertius saith,
Nunc etiam infectos demum mutare Britannos,
And to paint the images and portraitures of beasts, fish and foules ouer
the whole bodie, as the Picts did, of whom Martial saith,
Barbara depictis veni Bascauda Britannis.
Certes the times of Samothes and Albion, haue some likelie limitation;
and so we may gather of the comming in of Brute, of Cæsar, the Saxons,
the Danes, the Normans, and finallie of the Flemmings, (who had the
Rosse in Wales assigned vnto them 1066. after the drowning of their
countrie.) But when first the Picts, & then the Scots should come ouer
into our Iland, as they were obscure people, so the time of their
arriuall is as far to me vnknowne. Wherefore the resolution of this
point must still remaine In tenebris. This neuerthelesse is certeine,
that Maximus first Legate of Britaine, and afterward emperour, draue the
Scots out of Britaine, and compelled them to get habitation in Ireland,
the out Iles, and the North part of the maine, and finallie diuided
their region betwéene the Britaines and the Picts. He denounced warre
also against the Irishmen, for receiuing them into their land: but they
crauing the peace, yéelded to subscribe, that from thence-foorth they
would not receiue any Scot into their dominions; and so much the more,
for that they were pronounced enimies to the Romans, and disturbers of
the common peace and quietnesse of their prouinces here in England.
The Saxons became first acquainted with this Ile, by meanes of the
piracie which they dailie practised vpon our coastes (after they had
once begun to aduenture themselues also vpon the seas, thereby to seeke
out more wealth than was now to be gotten in the West parts of the
maine, which they and their neighbours had alreadie spoiled in most
lamentable and barbarous maner) howbeit they neuer durst presume to
The hurt by forren aid.
inhabit in this Iland, vntill they were sent for by Vortiger to serue
him in his warres against the Picts and Scots, after that the Romans had
giuen vs ouer, and left vs wholie to our owne defense and regiment.
Being therefore come vnder Hengist in three bottoms or kéeles, and in
short time espieng the idle and negligent behauiour of the Britaines,
and fertilitie of our soile, they were not a little inflamed to make a
full conquest of such as at the first they came to aid and succour.
Herevpon also they fell by little and little to the winding in of
greater numbers of their countrimen and neighbours, with their wiues and
children into this region, so that within a while these new comlings
began to molest the homelings, and ceased not from time to time to
continue their purpose, vntill they had gotten possession of the whole,
or at the leastwise the greatest part of our countrie; the Britons in
the meane season being driuen either into Wales and Cornewall, or
altogither out of the Iland to séeke new habitations.
Danes.
In like maner the Danes (the next nation that succéeded) came at the
first onelie to pilfer and robbe vpon the frontiers of our Iland, till
that in the end, being let in by the Welshmen or Britons through an
earnest desire to be reuenged vpon the Saxons, they no lesse plagued the
one than the other, their fréends than their aduersaries, seeking by all
meanes possible to establish themselues also in the sure possession of
Britaine. But such was their successe, that they prospered not long in
their deuise: for so great was their lordlinesse, crueltie, and
[Page 12]
insatiable desire of riches, beside their detestable abusing of chast
matrons, and yoong virgins (whose husbands and parents were dailie
inforced to become their drudges and slaues, whilest they sat at home
and fed like drone bées of the sweet of their trauell and labours) that
God I say would not suffer them to continue any while ouer vs, but when
he saw his time he remooued their yoke, and gaue vs liberty as it were
to breath vs, thereby to see whether this his sharpe scourge could haue
mooued vs to repentance and amendment of our lewd and sinfull liues, or
not. But when no signe thereof appeared in our hearts, he called in an
The Normans.
other nation to vex vs, I meane the Normans, a people mixed with Danes,
and of whom it is worthilie doubted, whether they were more hard and
cruell to our countrimen than the Danes, or more heauie and intollerable
to our Iland than the Saxons or the Romans. This nation came out of
Newstria, the people thereof were called Normans by the French, bicause
the Danes which subdued that region, came out of the North parts of the
world: neuerthelesse, I suppose that the ancient word Newstria, is
corrupted from West-rijc, bicause that if you marke the situation, it
lieth opposite from Austria or Ost-rijc, which is called the East
region, as Newstria is the Weast: for Rijc in the old Scithian toong
dooth signifie a region or kingdome, as in Franc-rijc, or Franc-reich,
Westsaxon-reich, Ost saxon-reich, Su-rijc, Angel-rijc, &c, is else to be
séene. But howsoeuer this falleth out, these Normans or Danish French,
were dedlie aduersaries to the English Saxons, first by meane of a
quarell that grew betwéene them in the daies of Edward the Confessour,
at such time as the Earle of Bullen, and William Duke of Normandie,
arriued in this land to visit him, & their freends; such Normans (I
meane) as came ouer with him and Emma his mother before him, in the time
of Canutus and Ethelred. For the first footing that euer the French did
set in this Iland, sithence the time of Ethelbert & Sigebert, was with
Emma, which Ladie brought ouer a traine of French Gentlemen and Ladies
with hir into England.
The cause of the conquest by the Normans.
After hir also no small numbers of attendants came in with Edward the
Confessour, whome he preferred to the greatest offices in the realme, in
so much that one Robert a Norman, became Archbishop of Canturburie,
whose preferment so much enhanced the minds of the French, on the one
side, as their lordlie and outragious demeanour kindled the stomachs of
the English nobilitie against them on the other: insomuch that not long
before the death of Emma the kings mother, and vpon occasion of the
brall hapning at Douer (whereof I haue made sufficient mention in my
Chronologie, not regarding the report of the French authors in this
behalfe, who write altogither in the fauour of their Archbishop Robert,
but following the authoritie of an English préest then liuing in the
court) the English Peeres began to shew their disliking in manifest
maner. Neuerthelesse, the Normans so bewitched the king with their lieng
and bosting, Robert the Archbishop being the chéefe instrument of their
practise, that he beléeued them, and therevpon vexed sundrie of the
nobilitie, amongst whom Earle Goodwijn of Kent was the chéefe, a noble
Gentleman and father in law to king Edward by the mariage of his
daughter. The matter also came to such issue against him, that he was
exiled, and fiue of his sonnes with him, wherevpon he goeth ouer the
sea, and soone after returning with his said sonnes, they inuaded the
land in sundrie places, the father himselfe comming to London, where
when the kings power was readie to ioine with him in battell, it
vtterlie refused so to doo: affirming plainelie, that it should be méere
follie for one Englishman to fight against another, in the reuenge of
Frenchmens quarels: which answer entred so déeplie into the kings mind,
that he was contented to haue the matter heard, and appointing
commissioners for that purpose; they concluded at the vpshot, that all
the French should depart out of England by a day, few excepted, whom the
Archbishop of Can. exiled, and the rest of the French.
king should appoint and nominate. By this means therfore Robert the
Archbishop, & of secret counsell with the king, was first exiled as
principall abuser & seducer of the king, who goeth to Rome, & there
complaineth to the Pope of his iniurie receiued by the English. Howbeit
as he returned home againe with no small hope of the readeption of his
See, he died in Normandie, whereby he saued a killing. Certes he was the
first that euer tendered complaint out of England vnto Rome, & with him
went William Bishop of London (afterward reuoked) and Vlfo of Lincolne,
who hardlie escaped the furie of the English nobilitie. Some also went
[Page 13]
into Scotland, and there held themselues, expecting a better time. And
this is the true historie of the originall cause of the conquest of
England by the French: for after they were well beaten at Douer, bicause
of their insolent demeanour there shewed, their harts neuer ceased to
boile with a desire of reuenge that brake out into a flame, so soone as
their Robert possessed the primacie, which being once obteined, and to
set his mischéefe intended abroch withall, a contention was quicklie
procured about certeine Kentish lands, and controuersie kindled, whether
he or the Earle should haue most right vnto them. The king held with the
Erle Goodwine slandered by the French writers.
priest as with the church, the nobilitie with the Earle. In processe
also of this businesse, the Archbishop accused the Earle of high
treason, burdening him with the slaughter of Alfred the kings brother,
which was altogither false: as appeareth by a treatise yet extant of
that matter, written by a chaplaine to king Edward the Confessour, in
the hands of Iohn Stow my verie fréend, wherein he saith thus, "Alfredus
incautè agens in aduentu suo in Angliam a Danis circumuentus occiditur."
He addeth moreouer, that giuing out as he came through the countrie
accompanied with his few proud Normans, how his meaning was to recouer
his right vnto the kingdome, and supposing that all men would haue
yéelded vnto him, he fell into their hands, whome Harald then king did
send to apprehend him, vpon the fame onelie of this report brought vnto
his eares. So that (to be short) after the king had made his
pacification with the Earle, the French (I say) were exiled, the Quéene
restored to his fauour (whom he at the beginning of this broile had
imprisoned at Wilton, allowing hir but one onlie maid to wait upon hir)
and the land reduced to hir former quietnesse, which continued vntill
the death of the king. After which the Normans not forgetting their old
grudge, remembred still their quarell, that in the end turned to their
conquest of this Iland. After which obteined, they were so cruellie bent
The miserie of the English vnder the French.
to our vtter subuersion and ouerthrow, that in the beginning it was lesse
reproch to be accounted a slaue than an Englishman, or a drudge in anie
filthie businesse than a Britaine: insomuch that euerie French page was
superiour to the greatest Peere; and the losse of an Englishmans life
but a pastime to such of them as contended in their brauerie, who should
giue the greatest strokes or wounds vnto their bodies, when their
toiling and drudgerie could not please them, or satisfie their gréedie
humors. Yet such was our lot in those daies by the diuine appointed
order, that we must needs obey such as the Lord did set ouer vs, and so
much the rather, for that all power to resist was vtterlie taken from
vs, and our armes made so weake and feeble that they were not now able
to remooue the importable load of the enimie from our surburdened
The cause of our miserie.
shoulders. And this onelie I saie againe, bicause we refused grace
offered in time, and would not heare when God by his Preachers did call
vs so fauourablie vnto him. Oh how miserable was the estate of our
countrie vnder the French and Normans, wherein the Brittish and English
that remained, could not be called to any function in the commonwealth,
no not so much as to be constables and headburowes in small villages,
except they could bring 2. or 3. Normans for suerties to the Lords of
the soile for their good behauiour in their offices! Oh what numbers of
all degrées of English and Brittish were made slaues and bondmen, and
bought and sold as oxen in open market! In so much that at the first
comming, the French bond were set free; and those that afterward became
bond, were of our owne countrie and nation, so that few or rather none
of vs remained free without some note of bondage and seruitude to the
French. Hereby then we perceiue, how from time to time this Iland hath
not onelie béene a prey, but as it were a common receptacle for
strangers, the naturall homelings or Britons being still cut shorter and
shorter, as I said before, till in the end they came not onelie to be
In this voiage the said Harald builded Portaschith,
which Caradoch ap Griffin afterward ouerthrew, and killed the
garrison that Harald left therein.
driuen into a corner of this region, but in time also verie like
vtterlie to haue beene extinguished. For had not king Edward, surnamed
the saint, in his time, after greeuous wars made vpon them 1063.
(wherein Harald latelie made Earle of Oxenford, sonne to Goodwin Earle
of Kent, and after king of England, was his generall) permitted the
remnant of their women to ioine in mariage with the Englishmen (when the
most part of their husbands and male children were slaine with the
sword) it could not haue béene otherwise chosen, but their whole race
must néeds haue susteined the
[Page 14]
vttermost confusion, and thereby the memorie of the Britons vtterlie
haue perished among vs.
Thus we see how England hath six times beene subiect to the reproch of
conquest. And wheras the Scots séeme to challenge manie famous victories
also ouer us, beside gréeuous impositions, tributs, & dishonorable
compositions: it shall suffice for answer, that they deale in this as in
the most part of their historie, which is to seeke great honor by lieng,
& great renowme by prating and craking. Indeed they haue doone great
mischéefe in this Iland, & with extreme crueltie; but as for any
conquest the first is yet to heare of. Diuers other conquests also haue
béene pretended by sundrie princes sithence the conquest, onelie to the
end that all pristinate lawes and tenures of possession might cease, and
they make a new disposition of all things at their owne pleasure. As one
by king Edw. the 3. but it tooke none effect. Another by Henrie the 4.
who neuerthelesse was at the last though hardlie drawne from the
challenge by William Thorington, then cheefe Justice of England. The
third by Henrie the 7. who had some better shew of right, but yet
without effect. And the last of all by Q. Marie, as some of the papists
gaue out, and also would haue had hir to haue obteined, but God also
staied their malices, and hir challenge. But beside the six afore
mentioned, Huntingdon the old historiographer speaketh of a seuenth,
likelie (as he saith) to come one daie out of the North, which is a wind
that bloweth no man to good, sith nothing is to be had in those parts,
but hunger & much cold. Sée more hereof in the historie of S. Albons,
and aforsaid author which lieth on the left side of the librarie
belonging now to Paules: for I regard no prophesies as one that doubteth
from what spirit they doo procéed, or who should be the author of them.
Besides these aforesaid nations, which haue crept (as you haue heard)
into our Iland, we read of sundrie giants that should inhabit here.
Which report as it is not altogither incredible, sith the posterities of
diuers princes were called by the name: so vnto some mens eares it
seemeth so strange a rehersall, that for the same onelie cause they
suspect the credit of our whole historie, & reiect it as a fable,
vnworthie to be read. They also condemne the like in all other
histories, especiallie of the North, where men are naturallie of
greatest stature, imagining all to be but fables that is written of
Starcater, Hartben, Angrine, Aruerode, &c: of whom Saxo, Johannes Magnus
and Olaus doo make mention, & whose bones doo yet remaine to be seene as
rare miracles in nature. Of these also some in their life time were able
to lift vp (as they write) a vessell of liquor of 1000. weight, or an
horsse, or an oxe, & cast it on their shoulders (wherein their verie
women haue beene likewise knowne to come néere vnto them) and of the
race of those men, some were séene of no lesse strength in the 1500. of
Grace, wherein Olaus liued, and wrote the same of his owne experience
and knowledge. Of the giant of Spaine that died of late yeares by a fall
vpon the Alpes, as he either went or came fro Rome, about the purchase
of a dispensation to marrie with his kinswoman (a woman also of much
more than common stature) there be men yet liuing, and may liue long for
age, that can saie verie much euen by their owne knowledge. Wherfore it
appeareth by present experience, that all is not absolutelie vntrue
which is remembred of men of such giants. For this cause therfore I haue
now taken vpon me to make this breefe discourse insuing, as indeuouring
therby to prooue, that the opinion of giants is not altogither grounded
vpon vaine and fabulous narrations, inuented onelie to delight the eares
of the hearers with the report of maruellous things: but that there haue
beene such men in deed, as for their hugenesse of person haue resembled
rather* high towers than mortall men, although their posterities are
* Esay. 30. vers. 25.
[Page 15]
now consumed, and their monstruous races vtterlie worne out of
knowledge.
I doo not meane herein to dispute, whether this name Gigas or Nephilim
was giuen vnto them, rather for their tyrannie and oppression of the
people, than for their greatnesse of bodie, or large steps, as Goropius
would haue it (for he denieth that euer men were greater than at this
present) or bicause their parents were not knowne, for such in old time
were called Terræ filij; or whether the word Gigas dooth onlie signifie
Indigenas, or homelings, borne in the land or not; neither whether all
men were of like quantitie in stature, and farre more greater in old
time, than now they be: and yet absolutelie I denie neither of these,
sith verie probable reasons may be brought for ech of them, but
especiallie the last rehearsed, whose confirmation dependeth vpon the
authorities of sundrie ancient writers, who make diuers of noble race,
equall to the giants in strength and manhood, and yet doo not giue the
same name vnto them, bicause their quarels were iust, and commonlie
taken in hand for defense of the oppressed. Examples hereof we may
Antheus. Lucane lib. 4 in fine.
take of Hercules and Antheus, whose wrestling declareth that they were
equall in stature & stomach. Such also was the courage of Antheus, that
being often ouercome, and as it were vtterlie vanquished by the said
Hercules, yet if he did eftsoones returne againe into his kingdome, he
forthwith recouered his force, returned and held Hercules tacke, till he
gat at the last betwéene him and home, so cutting off the farther hope
of the restitution of his armie, and killing finallie his aduersarie in
the field, of which victorie Politian writeth thus:
Incaluere animis dura certare palæstra,
Neptuni quondàm filius atque Iouis:
Non certamen erant operoso ex ære lebetes,
Sed qui vel vitam vel ferat interitum:
Occidit Antæus Ioue natum viuere fas est,
Estq; magistra Pales Græcia, non Lybia.
Corineus.
Gomagot.
The like doo our histories report of Corineus and Gomagot, peraduenture
king of this Ile, who fought a combat hand to hand, till one of them was
slaine, and yet for all this no man reputeth Hercules or Corineus for
giants, albeit that Hanuile in his Architrenion make the later to be 12.
cubits in height, which is full 18. foot, if poeticall licence doo not
take place in his report and assertion. But sith (I say againe) it is
not my purpose to stand vpon these points, I passe ouer to speake any
more of them. And whereas also I might haue proceeded in such order,
that I should first set downe by manie circumstances, whether any giants
were, then whether they were of such huge and incredible stature as the
authours doo remember, and finallie whether any of them haue beene in
this our Iland or not, I protest plainlie, that my mind is not here bent
to deale in any such maner, but rather generallie to confirme and by
sufficient authoritie, that there haue beene such mightie men of
stature, and some of them also in Britaine, which I will set downe
onelie by sundrie examples, whereby it shall fall out, that neither our
Iland, nor any part of the maine, haue at one time or other béen
altogither without them. First of all therfore, & to begin with the
scriptures, the most sure & certeine ground of all knowledge: you shall
haue out of them such notable examples set downe, as I haue obserued in
reading the same, which vnto the godlie may suffice for sufficient
proofe of my position. Neuerthelesse, after the scriptures I will resort
to the writings of our learned Diuines, and finallie of the infidell and
pagane authors, whereby nothing shall seeme to want that may confute
Goropius, and all his cauillations.
Cap. 6. vers. 5.
Moses the prophet of the Lord, writing of the estate of things before
the floud, hath these words in his booke of generations. In these daies
saith he, there were giants vpon the earth. Berosus also the Chalde
Anti. li. 1.
writeth, that néere vnto Libanus there was a citie called Oenon (which I
take to be Hanoch, builded sometime by Cham) wherein giants did inhabit,
who trusting to the strength and hugenesse of their bodies, did verie
great oppression and mischeefe in the world. The Hebrues called them
generallie Enach, of Hanach the Chebronite, father to Achimam, Scheschai
[Page 16]
and Talma, although their first originall was deriued from Henoch the
sonne of Caine, of whome that pestilent race descended, as I read. The
Moabits named them Emims, and the Ammonites Zamsummims, and it should
seeme by the second of Deut. cap. 19, 20. that Ammon and Moab were
greatlie replenished with such men, when Moses wrote that treatise. For
of these monsters some families remained of greater stature than other
Nu. cap. 13. verse 33, & 34.
vnto his daies, in comparison of whome the children of Israell confessed
themselues to be but grashoppers. Which is one noble testimonie that the
word Gigas or Enach is so well taken for a man of huge stature, as for
an homeborne child, wicked tyrant, or oppressour of the people.
Deut. 3. vers. 11.
Og of Basan.
Furthermore, there is mention made also in the scriptures of Og,
sometime king of Basan, who was the last of the race of the giants, that
was left in the land of promise to be ouercome by the Israelits, & whose
iron bed was afterward shewed for a woonder at Rabbath (a citie of the
Ammonites) conteining 9. cubits in length, and 4. in bredth, which
cubits I take not to be geometricall, (that is, each one so great as six
of the smaller, as those were wherof the Arke was made, as our Diuines
affirme, especiallie Augustine: whereas Origen, hom. 2. in Gen. out of
whom he seemeth to borrow it, appeareth to haue no such meaning
directlie) but rather of the arme of a meane man, which oftentimes dooth
varie & differ from the standard. Oh how Goropius dalieth about the
historie of this Og, of the breaking of his pate against the beds head,
& of hurting his ribs against the sides, and all to prooue, that Og was
not bigger than other men, and so he leaueth the matter as sufficientlie
answered with a French countenance of truth. But see August. de ciuit.
lib. 15. cap. 25. & ad Faustum Manich. lib. 12. Ambros. &c. and Johannes
Buteo that excellent geometrician, who hath written of purpose of the
capacitie of the Arke.
Cap. 17. ver. 4,
5, 6. Goliah.
In the first of Samuel you shall read of Goliah a Philistine, the weight
of whose brigandine or shirt of maile was of 5000. sicles, or 1250.
ounces of brasse, which amounteth to 104. pound of Troie weight after 4.
common sicles to the ounce. The head of his speare came vnto ten pound
English or 600. sicles of that metall. His height also was measured at
six cubits and an hand bredth. All which doo import that he was a
notable giant, and a man of great stature & strength to weare such an
armour, and beweld so heauie a lance. But Goropius thinking himselfe
still to haue Og in hand, and indeuouring to extenuate the fulnesse of
the letter to his vttermost power, dooth neuerthelesse earnestlie
affirme, that he was not aboue three foot more than the common sort of
men, or two foot higher than Saule: and so he leaueth it as determined.
Cap. 21. ver. 16, 17, &c.
In the second of Samuel, I find report of foure giants borne in Geth; of
which Ishbenob the first, that would haue killed Dauid, had a speare,
whose head weighed the iust halfe of that of Goliath: the second called
Siphai, Sippai or Saph, 1. Par. 20. was nothing inferiour to the first:
the third hight also Goliah, the staffe of whose speare was like vnto
the beame of a weauers loome, neuerthelesse he was slaine in the second
battell in Gob by Elhanan, as the first was by Abisai Ioabs brother, and
the second by Elhanan. The fourth brother (for they were all brethren)
was slaine at Gath by Ionathan nephew to Dauid, and he was not onlie
huge of personage, but also of disfigured forme, for he had 24. fingers
and toes. Wherby it is euident, that the generation of giants was not
extinguished in Palestine, vntill the time of Dauid, which was 2890.
after the floud, nor vtterlie consumed in Og, as some of our expositors
would haue it.
Now to come vnto our christian writers. For though the authorities
alreadie alleged out of the word, are sufficient to confirme my purpose
at the full; yet will I not let to set downe such other notes as
experience hath reuealed, onelie to the end that the reader shall not
thinke the name of giants, with their quantities, and other
circumstances, mentioned in the scriptures, rather to haue some
mysticall interpretation depending vpon them, than that the sense of the
text in this behalfe is to be taken simplie as it speaketh. And first of
all to omit that which Tertullian Lib. 2. de resurrect. saith;
De ciuitate Dei lib. 15. cap. 9.
S. Augustine noteth, how he with other saw the tooth of a man, wherof he
tooke good aduisement, and pronounced in the end that it would haue made
[Page 17]
100. of his owne, or anie other mans that liued in his time. The like
Iohannes Boccacius.
hereof also dooth Iohn Boccace set downe, in the 68. chapter of his 4.
booke, saieng that in the caue of a mountaine, not far from Drepanum (a
towne of Sicilia called Eryx as he gesseth) the bodie of an exceeding
high giant was discouered, thrée of whose teeth did weigh 100. ounces,
which being conuerted into English poise, doth yeeld eight pound and
foure ounces, after twelue ounces to the pound, that is 33. ounces
euerie tooth.
He addeth farther, that the forepart of his scull was able to conteine
manie bushels of wheat, and by the proportion of the bone of his thigh,
A carcase discouered of 200. cubits.
the Symmetricians iudged his bodie to be aboue 200. cubits. Those teeth,
scull, and bones, were (and as I thinke yet are, for ought I know to the
contrarie) to be seene in the church of Drepanum in perpetuall memorie
of his greatnesse, whose bodie was found vpon this occasion. As some
digged in the earth to laie the foundation of an house, the miners
happened vpon a great vault, not farre from Drepanum: whereinto when
they were entred, they saw the huge bodie of a man sitting in the caue,
of whose greatnesse they were so afraid, that they ranne awaie, and made
an outcrie in the citie, how there sat a man in such a place, so great
as an hill: the people hearing the newes, ran out with clubs and
weapons, as if they should haue gone vnto a foughten field, and 300. of
them entring into the caue, they foorthwith saw that he was dead, and
yet sat as if he had been aliue, hauing a staffe in his hand, compared
by mine author vnto the mast of a tall ship, which being touched fell by
and by to dust, sauing the nether end betwéene his hand and the ground,
whose hollownesse was filled with 1500. pound weight of lead, to beare
vp his arme that it should not fall in péeces: neuerthelesse, his bodie
also being touched fell likewise into dust, sauing three of his
aforesaid teeth, the forepart of his scull, and one of his thigh bones,
which are reserued to be séene of such as will hardlie beleeue these
reports.
In the histories of Brabant I read of a giant found, whose bones were
17. or 18. cubits in length, but Goropius, as his maner is, denieth them
to be the bones of a man, affirming rather that they were the bones of
an elephant, because they somwhat resembled those of two such beasts
which were found at the making of the famous ditch betwéene Bruxels and
Machlin. As though there were anie precise resemblance betwéene the
bones of a man and of an elephant, or that there had euer béene any
elephant of 27. foot in length. But sée his demeanour. In the end he
granteth that another bodie was found vpon the shore of Rhodanus, of
thirtie foot in length. Which somewhat staieth his iudgement, but not
altogither remooueth his error.
Mat. Westmon.
The bodie of Pallas was found in Italie, in the yeare of Grace 1038. and
being measured it conteined twentie foot in length, this Pallas was
companion with Æneas.
Iohannes Leland.
There was a carcase also laid bare 1170. in England vpon the shore
(where the beating of the sea had washed awaie the earth from the stone
wherein it laie) and when it was taken vp it conteined 50. foot in
Mafieus, lib. 14. Triuet.
measure, as our histories doo report. The like was seene before in
Mat. West.
Wales, in the yeare 1087. of another of 14. foot.
In Perth moreouer a village in Scotland another was taken vp, which to
this daie they shew in a church, vnder the name of little John (per
Antiphrasin) being also 14. foot in length, as diuerse doo affirme which
Hector Boet.
haue beholden the same, and whereof Hector Boetius dooth saie, that he
did put his whole arme into one of the hanch bones: which is worthie to
be remembred.
In the yeare of Grace 1475. the bodie of Tulliola the daughter of Cicero
was taken vp, & found higher by not a few foot than the common sort of
women liuing in those daies.
Geruasius Tilberiensis.
Geruasius Tilberiensis, head Marshall to the king of Arles writeth in
his Chronicle dedicated to Otho 4. how that at Isoretum, in the suburbes
of Paris, he saw the bodie of a man that was twentie foot long, beside
the head and the necke, which was missing & not found, the owner hauing
peraduenture béene beheaded for some notable trespasse committed in
times past, or (as he saith) killed by S. William.
The Greeke writers make mention of Andronicus their emperour, who liued
1183. of Grace, and was ten foot in height, that is, thrée foot higher
than the Dutch man that shewed himselfe in manie places of England,
[Page 18]
1582. this man maried Anna daughter to Lewis of France (before assured
to Alexius, whome he strangled, dismembred and drowned in the sea) the
ladie not being aboue eleuen yeares of age, whereas he was an old
dotard, and beside hir he kept Marpaca a fine harlot, who ruled him as
she listed.
Zonaras speaketh of a woman that liued in the daies of Justine, who
being borne in Cilicia, and of verie comelie personage, was
neuerthelesse almost two foot taller than the tallest woman of hir time.
Sir Thomas Eliot.
A carcase was taken vp at Iuie church neere Salisburie but of late
yeares to speake of, almost fourtéene foot long, in Dictionario Eliotæ.
Leland in Combrit.
In Gillesland in Come Whitton paroche not far from the chappell of the
Moore, six miles by east from Carleill, a coffin of stone was found, and
therein the bones of a man, of more than incredible greatnes. In like
sort Leland speaketh of another found in the Ile called Alderney,
whereof you shall read more in the chapiter of our Ilands.
Richard Grafton.
Richard Grafton in his Manuell telleth of one whose shinbone conteined
six foot, and thereto his scull so great that it was able to receiue
fiue pecks of wheat. Wherefore by coniecturall symmetrie of these parts,
his bodie must needs be of 24. foot, or rather more, if it were
The Symmetrie or proportion of the bodie of a comelie man.
diligentlie measured. For the proportion of a comelie and well featured
bodie, answereth 9. times to the length of the face, taken at large from
the pitch of the crowne to the chin, as the whole length is from the
same place vnto the sole of the foot, measured by an imagined line, and
seuered into so manie parts by like ouerthwart draughts, as Drurerus in
his lineall description of mans bodie doth deliuer. Neuertheles, this
symmetrie is not taken by other than the well proportioned face, for
Recta, orbiculata (or fornicata) prona, resupinata, and lacunata (or
repanda) doo so far degenerate from the true proportion as from the
forme and beautie of the comelie. Hereby also they make the face taken
in strict maner, to be the tenth part of the whole bodie, that is,
frō the highest part of the forehead to the pitch of the chin, so
that in the vse of the word face there is a difference, wherby the 9.
part is taken (I say) from the crowne (called Vertex, because the haire
there turneth into a circle) so that if the space by a rule were truelie
taken, I meane from the crowne or highest part of the head to the pitch
of the nether chap, and multiplied by nine, the length of the whole
bodie would easilie appeare, & shew it selfe at the full. In like maner
I find, that from the elbow to the top of the midle finger is the 4.
part of the whole length, called a cubit: from the wrist to the top of
the same finger, a tenth part: the length of the shinbone to the ancle a
fourth part (and all one with the cubit:) from the top of the finger to
the third ioint, two third parts of the face from the top of the
forehead. Which obseruations I willinglie remember in this place, to the
end that if anie such carcases happen to be found hereafter, it shall
not be hard by some of these bones here mentioned, to come by the
stature of the whole bodie, in certeine & exact maner. As for the rest
of the bones, ioints, parts, &c: you may resort to Drurerus, Cardan, and
other writers, sith the farther deliuerie of them concerneth not my
purpose. To proceed therefore with other examples, I read that the bodie
Sylvester Gyraldus.
of king Arthur being found in the yeare 1189. was two foot higher than
anie man that came to behold the same. Finallie the carcase of William
Conqueror was séene not manie yeares since (to wit, 1542.) in the citie
Constans fama Gallorum.
of Cane, twelue inches longer, by the iudgment of such as saw it, than
anie man which dwelled in the countrie. All which testimonies I note
togither, bicause they proceed from christian writers, from whome
nothing should be farther or more distant, than of set purpose to lie,
and feed the world with fables.
In our times also, and whilest Francis the first reigned ouer France,
there was a man séene in Aquiteine, whome the king being in those
parties made of his gard, whose height was such, that a man of common
heigth might easilie go vnder his twist without stooping, a stature
Briat.
incredible. Moreouer Casanion, a writer of our time, telleth of the
bones of Briat a giant found of late in Delphinois, of 15. cubits, the
diameter of whose scull was two cubits, and the breadth of his shoulders
foure, as he himselfe beheld in the late second wars of France, &
wherevnto the report of Ioan Marius made in his bookes De Galliarum
[Page 19]
illustrationibus,where he writeth of the carcase of the same giant found
not farre from the Rhodanus, which was 22. foot long, from the scull to
the sole of the feet, dooth yéeld sufficient testimonie. Also Calameus
in his commentaries De Biturigibus, confirmeth no lesse, adding that he
was found 1556. & so dooth Baptista Fulgosus, lib. 1. cap. 6. saieng
farther, that his graue was seene not farre from Valentia, and
discouered by the violence and current of the Rhodanus. The said
Casanion in like sort speaketh of the bones of a man which he beheld,
one of whose téeth was a foot long, and eight pound in weight. Also of
the sepulchre of another neere vnto Charmes castell, which was nine
paces in length, things incredible to vs, if eiesight did not confirme
it in our owne times, and these carcases were not reserued by the verie
prouidence of God, to the end we might behold his works, and by these
relikes vnderstand, that such men were in old time in deed, of whose
statures we now begin to doubt. Now to say somwhat also of mine owne
knowledge, there is the thighbone of a man to be séene in the church of
S. Laurence néere Guildhall in London, which in time past was 26. inches
in length, but now it beginneth to decaie, so that it is shorter by
foure inches than it was in the time of king Edward. Another also is to
be seene in Aldermarie burie, of some called Aldermanburie, of 32.
inches and rather more, whereof the symmetrie hath beene taken by some
skilfull in that practise, and an image made according to that
proportion, which is fixt in the east end of the cloister of the same
church, not farre from the said bone, and sheweth the person of a man
full ten or eleuen foot high, which as some say was found in the
cloister of Poules, that was neere to the librarie, at such time as the
Duke of Somerset did pull it downe to the verie foundation, and carried
the stones thereof to the Strand, where he did build his house. These
two bones haue I séene, beside other, whereof at the beholding I tooke
no great heed, bicause I minded not as then to haue had any such vse of
their proportions, and therefore I will speake no more of them: this is
sufficient for my purpose that is deliuered out of the christian
authors.
Now it resteth furthermore that I set downe, what I haue read therof in
Pagane writers, who had alwaies great regard of their credit, and so
ought all men that dedicate any thing vnto posteritie, least in going
about otherwise to reape renowme and praise, they doo procure vnto
themselues in the end nothing else but meere contempt and infamie. For
my part I will touch rare things, and such as to my selfe doo séeme
almost incredible: howbeit as I find them, so I note them, requiring
your Honour in reading hereof, to let euerie Author beare his owne
burden, and euerie oxe his bundle.
In vita Sertorij de Antheo.
Plutarch telleth how Sertorius being in Lybia, néere to the streicts of
Maroco, to wit, at Tingi (or Tanger in Mauritania, as it is now called)
caused the sepulchre of Antheus, afore remembred to be opened: for
hearing by common report that the said giant laie buried there, whose
corps was fiftie cubits long at the least, he was so far off from
crediting the same, that he would not beleeue it, vntill he saw the
coffin open wherein the bones of the aforesaid prince did rest. To be
short therefore, he caused his souldiers to cast downe the hill made
sometime ouer the tombe, and finding the bodie in the bottome coffined
in stone, after the measure therof taken, he saw it manifestlie to be
60. cubits in length, which were ten more than the people made accompt
of, which Strabo also confirmeth.
Pausanias reporteth out of one Miso, that when the bodie of Aiax was
found, the whirlebone of his knée was adiudged so broad as a pretie
dish: also that the bodie of Asterius somtime king of Creta was ten
cubits long, and that of Hyllus or Gerion no lesse maruelous than the
rest, all which Goropius still condemneth to be the bones of monsters of
the sea (notwithstanding the manifest formes of their bones, epitaphes,
and inscriptions found ingrauen in brasse and lead with them in their
sepulchres) so far is he from being persuaded and led from his opinion.
Philostrate.
Philostrate in Heroicis saith, how he saw the bodie of a giant thirtie
cubits in length, also the carcase of another of two and twentie, and
the third of twelue.
Liuie in the seauenth of his first decade, speaketh of an huge person
which made a challenge as he stood at the end of the Anien bridge,
against any Romane that would come out and fight with him, whose
[Page 20]
stature was not much inferiour to that of Golias, of Artaches (of whome
Herodot speaketh in the historie of Xerxes) who was sixe common cubits
of stature, which make but fiue of the kings standard, bicause this is
longer by thrée fingers than the other. Of Pusio, Secundilla, & Cabaras,
of which the first two liuing vnder Augustus were aboue ten foot, and
the later vnder Claudius of full nine, and all remembred by Plinie; of
Eleazar a Jew, of whome Iosephus saith, that he was sent to Tiberius,
and a person of heigth fiue cubits; of another of whom Nicephorus maketh
mention lib. 12. cap. 13. Hist. eccles. of fiue cubits and an handfull,
I say nothing, bicause Casanion of Mutterell hath alredie sufficientlie
discoursed vpon these examples in his De gigantibus, which as I gesse he
hath written of set purpose against Goropius, who in his Gigantomachia,
supposeth himselfe to haue killed all the giants in the world, and like
a new Iupiter Alterum carcasse Herculem, as the said Casanion dooth
merilie charge and vpbraid him.
Lib. 7.
Plinie telleth of an earthquake at Creta, which discouered the body of a
giant, that was 46. cubits in length after the Romane standard, and by
diuerse supposed to be the bodie of Orion or Ætion. Neuerthelesse I
read, that Lucius Flaccus and Metellus did sweare Per sua capita, that
it was either the carcase of some monster of the sea, or a forged deuise
to bleare the peoples eies withall, wherein it is wonderfull to see, how
they please Goropius as one that first deriued his fantasticall
imagination from their asseueration & oth. The said Plinie also addeth
that the bodie of Orestes was seuen cubits in length, one Gabbara of
Arabia nine foot nine inches, and two reserued In conditorio
Sallustianorum halfe a foot longer than Gabbara was, for which I neuer
read that anie man was driuen to sweare.
Trallianus.
Trallianus writeth how the Athenienses digging on a time in the ground,
to laie the foundation of a new wall to be made in a certeine Iland in
the daies of an emperour, did find the bones of Macrosyris in a coffin
of hard stone, of 100. cubits in length after the accompt of the Romane
cubit, which was then either a foot and a halfe, or not much in
difference from halfe a yard of our measure now in England. These verses
also, as they are now translated out of Gréeke were found withall,
Sepultus ego Macrosyris in longa insula
Vitæ peractis annis mille quinquies:
which amounteth to 81. yeares foure moneths, after the Aegyptian
reckoning.
In the time of Hadrian the emperour, the bodie of the giant Ida was
taken vp at Messana, conteining 20. foot in length, and hauing a double
row of teeth, yet standing whole in his chaps. Eumachus also in
Perigesi, telleth that when the Carthaginenses went about to dich in
their prouince, they found two bodies in seuerall coffins of stone, the
one was 23. the other 24. cubits in length, such another was found in
Bosphoro Cymmerio after an earthquake, but the inhabitants did cast
those bones into the Meotidan marris. In Dalmatia, manie graues were
shaken open with an earthquake, in diuers of which certeine carcases
were found, whose ribs conteined 16. els, after the Romane measure,
whereby the whole bodies were iudged to be 64. sith the longest rib is
commonlie about the fourth part of a man, as some rouing symmetricians
affirme.
Arrhianus saith, that in the time of Alexander the bodies of the Asianes
were generallie of huge stature, and commonlie of fiue cubits, and such
was the heigth of Porus of Inde, whom the said Alexander vanquished and
ouerthrew in battell.
Suidas speaketh of Ganges, killed also by the said prince, who farre
exceeded Porus; for he was ten cubits long. What should I speake of
Artaceas a capitaine in the host of Xerxes, afore remembred, whose
heigth was within 4. fingers bredth of fiue cubits, & the tallest man in
the armie except the king himselfe. Herod. lib. 7. Of Athanatus whom
Plinie remembreth I saie nothing. But of all these, this one example
shall passe, which I doo read of in Trallianus, and he setteth downe in
forme and manner following.
In the daies of Tiberius th'emperor saith he, a corps was left bare or
laid open after an earthquake, of which ech tooth (taken one with
another) conteined 12. inches ouer at the least. Now forsomuch as in
[Page 21]
A mouth of sixteene foot wide.
such as be full mouthed, ech chap hath commonlie 16. teeth at the least,
which amount vnto 32. in the whole, needs must the widenesse of this
mans chaps be welneere of 16. foot, and the opening of his lips fiue at
the least. A large mouth in mine opinion, and not to eat peason with
Ladies of my time, besides that if occasion serued, it was able to
receiue the whole bodies of mo than one of the greatest men, I meane of
such as we be in our daies. When this carcase was thus found, euerie man
maruelled at it, & good cause why. A messenger was sent to Tiberius the
A counterfect made of a monstrous carcase by one tooth taken
out of the head.
emperour also to know his pleasure, whether he would haue the same
brought ouer vnto Rome or not, but he forbad them, willing his Legate
not to remooue the dead out of his resting place, but rather somewhat to
satisfie his phantasie to send him a tooth out of his head, which being
done, he gaue it to a cunning workeman, commanding him to shape a
carcase of light matter, after the proportion of the tooth, that at the
least by such means he might satisfie his curious mind, and the
fantasies of such as are delited with nouelties. To be short, when the
This man was more fauorable to this monster
than our papists were to the bodies of the dead who
tare them in peeces to make money of them.
image was once made and set vp on end, it appéered rather an huge
colossie than the true carcase of a man, and when it had stood in Rome
vntill the people were wearie & throughlie satisfied with the sight
thereof, he caused it to be broken all to peeces, and the tooth sent
againe to the carcase frō whence it came, willing them moreouer to
couer it diligentlie, and in anie wise not to dismember the corps, nor
from thencefoorth to be so hardie as to open the sepulchre anie more.
Pausan. lib. 8. telleth in like maner of Hiplodanus & his fellowes, who
liued when Rhea was with child of Osyris by Cham, and were called to hir
aid at such time as she feared to be molested by Hammon hir first
Grandiáque effossis mirabitur ossa sepulchris.
husband, whilest she remained vpon the Thoumasian hill, "In ipso loco,"
saith he, "spectantur ossa maiora multo quàm vt humana existimari
possunt, &c." Of Protophanes who had but one great and broad bone in
steed of all his ribs on ech side I saie nothing, sith it concerneth not
his stature.
I could rehearse manie mo examples of the bodies of such men, out of
Solinus, Sabellicus, D. Cooper, and others. As of Oetas and Ephialtes,
who were said to be nine orgies or paces in heigth, and foure in bredth,
which are taken for so many cubits, bicause there is small difference
betwéene a mans ordinarie pace and his cubit, and finallie of our
Richard the first, who is noted to beare an axe in the wars, the iron of
whose head onelie weighed twentie pound after our greatest weight, and
whereof an old writer that I haue seene, saith thus:
This king Richard I vnderstand,
Yer he went out of England,
Let make an axe for the nones,
Therewith to cleaue the Saracens bones,
The head in sooth was wrought full weele,
Thereon were twentie pound of steele,
And when he came in Cyprus land,
That ilkon axe he tooke in hand, &c.
I could speake also of Gerards staffe or lance, yet to be seene in
Gerards hall at London in Basing lane, which is so great and long that
no man can beweld it, neither go to the top thereof without a ladder,
which of set purpose and for greater countenance of the wonder is fixed
by the same. I haue seene a man my selfe of seuen foot in heigth, but
lame of his legs. The chronicles also of Cogshall speake of one in
Wales, who was halfe a foot higher, but through infirmitie and wounds
not able to beweld himselfe. I might (if I thought good) speake also of
another of no lesse heigth than either of these and liuing of late
yeares, but these here remembred shall suffice to prooue my purpose
withall. I might tell you in like sort of the marke stone which Turnus
threw at Æneas, and was such as that twelue chosen and picked men (saith
Virgil),
Vis vnita fortior est eadem dispersa.
(Qualia nunc hominum producit corpora tellus)
[Page 22]
were not able to stur and remooue out of the place: but I passe it ouer,
and diuerse of the like, concluding that these huge blocks were ordeined
and created by God: first for a testimonie vnto vs of his power and
might; and secondlie for a confirmation, that hugenes of bodie is not to
be accompted of as a part of our felicitie, sith they which possessed
the same, were not onelie tyrants, doltish, & euill men, but also
oftentimes ouercome euen by the weake & feeble. Finallie they were such
indéed as in whom the Lord delited not, according to the saieng of the
Cap. 3, 36.
prophet Baruch; "Ibi fuerunt gigantes nominati, illi qui ab initio
fuerunt statura magna, scientes bellum, hos non elegit Dominus, neque
illis viam disciplinæ dedit, propterea perierunt, et quoniam non
habuerunt sapientiam, interierunt propter suam insipientiam, &c." that
is, "There were the giants famous from the beginning, that were of great
stature and expert in warre, those did not the Lord choose, neither gaue
he the waie of knowledge vnto them, but they were destroied, because
they had no wisedome, and perished through their owne foolishnesse."
That the bodies of men also doo dailie decaie in stature, beside
4. Esd. cap. 5.
Plinie lib. 7. Esdras likewise confesseth lib. 4. cap. 5. whose
authoritie is so good herein as that of Homer or Plinie, who doo affirme
so much, whereas Goropius still continuing his woonted pertinacitie also
in this behalfe, maketh his proportion first by the old Romane foot, and
then by his owne, & therevpon concludeth that men in these daies be
fullie so great as euer they were, whereby as in the former dealing he
thinketh it nothing to conclude against the scriptures, chosen writers
and testimonies of the oldest pagans. But see how he would salue all at
last in the end of his Gigantomachia, where he saith, I denie not but
that od huge personages haue bene seene, as a woman of ten, and a man of
nine foot long, which I my selfe also haue beholden, but as now so in
old time the common sort did so much woonder at the like as we doo at
these, because they were seldome séene, and not commonlie to be heard
of.
British.
What language came first with Samothes and afterward with Albion, and
the giants of his companie, it is hard for me to determine, sith nothing
of sound credit remaineth in writing, which may resolue vs in the truth
Small difference betweene the British and Celtike languages.
hereof. Yet of so much are we certeine, that the speach of the ancient
Britons, and of the Celts, had great affinitie one with another, so that
they were either all one, or at leastwise such as either nation with
small helpe of interpretors might vnderstand other, and readilie
discerne what the speaker meant. Some are of the opinion that the Celts
spake Greeke, and how the British toong resembled the same, which was
spoken in Grecia before Homer did reforme it: but I see that these men
doo speake without authoritie and therefore I reiect them, for if the
Celts which were properlie called Galles did speake Gréeke, why did
Cesar in his letters sent to Rome vse that language, because that if
they should be intercepted they might not vnderstand them, or why did he
not vnderstand the Galles, he being so skilfull in the language without
an interpretor? Yet I denie not but that the Celtish and British
speaches might haue great affinitie one with another, and the British
aboue all other with the Greeke, for both doo appéere by certeine words,
as first in tri for three, march for an horsse, & trimarchia, whereof
Pausanias speaketh, for both. Atheneus also writeth of Bathanasius a
capitaine of the Galles, whose name is méere British, compounded of Bath
& Ynad, & signifieth a noble or comelie iudge. And wheras he saith that
the reliques of the Galles tooke vp their first dwelling about Isther,
and afterward diuided themselues in such wise, that they which went and
dwelled in Hungarie were called Sordsai, and the other that inhabited
within the dominion of Tyroll) Brenni, whose seate was on the mount
Brenhere parcell of the Alpes, what else signifieth the word Iscaredich
in British, from whence the word Scordisci commeth, but to be diuided?
[Page 23]
Hereby then, and sundrie other the like testimonies, I gather that the
British and the Celtish speaches had great affinitie one with another,
as I said, which Cesar (speaking of the similitude or likenesse of
religion in both nations) doth also auerre, & Tacitus in vita Agricolæ,
in like sort plainlie affirmeth, or else it must needs be that the
Galles which inuaded Italie and Greece were meere Britons, of whose
likenes of speech with the Gréeke toong I need not make anie triall,
sith no man (I hope) will readilie denie it. Appianus talking of the
Brenni calleth them Cymbres, and by this I gather also that the Celts
and the Britons were indifferentlie called Cymbri in their own language,
or else that the Britons were the right Cymbri, who vnto this daie doo
not refuse to be called by that name. Bodinus writing of the means by
which the originall of euerie kingdome and nation is to be had and
discerned, setteth downe thrée waies whereby the knowledge thereof is to
be found, one is (saith he) the infallible testimonie of the sound
writers, the other the description and site of the region, the third the
relikes of the ancient speech remaining in the same. Which later if it
be of any force, then I must conclude, that the spéech of the Britons
and Celts was sometime either all one or verie like one to another, or
else it must follow that the Britons ouerflowed the continent vnder the
name of Cymbres, being peraduenture associat in this voiage, or mixed by
inuasion with the Danes, and Norwegiens, who are called Cymbri and
Cymmerij, as most writers doo remember. This also is euident (as
Plutarch likewise confesseth In vita Marij) that no man knew from whence
the Cymbres came in his daies, and therfore I beleeue that they came out
of Britaine, for all the maine was well knowne vnto them, I meane euen
to the vttermost part of the north, as may appeare furthermore by the
slaues which were dailie brought from thence vnto them, whom of their
countries they called Daui for Daci, Getæ for Gothes, &c: for of their
conquests I need not make rehearsall, sith they are commonlie knowne and
remembred by the writers, both of the Greekes and Latines.
British corrupted by the Latine and Saxon speeches.
The British toong called Camberaec dooth yet remaine in that part of the
Iland, which is now called Wales, whither the Britons were driuen after
the Saxons had made a full conquest of the other, which we now call
England, although the pristinate integritie thereof be not a little
diminished by mixture of the Latine and Saxon speaches withall. Howbeit,
manie poesies and writings (in making whereof that nation hath euermore
delited) are yet extant in my time, wherby some difference betwéene the
ancient and present language may easilie be discerned, notwithstanding
that among all these there is nothing to be found, which can set downe
anie sound and full testimonie of their owne originall, in remembrance
whereof, their Bards and cunning men haue béene most slacke and
negligent. Giraldus in praising the Britons affirmeth that there is not
one word in all their language, that is not either Gréeke or Latine.
Which being rightly vnderstanded and conferred with the likenesse that
was in old time betwéene the Celts & the British toongs, will not a
little helpe those that thinke the old Celtish to haue some sauour of
the Gréeke. But how soeuer that matter standeth, after the British
speach came once ouer into this Iland, sure it is, that it could neuer
be extinguished for all the attempts that the Romans, Saxons, Normans,
and Englishmen could make against that nation, in anie maner of wise.
The Britons diligent in petigrées.
Petigrées and genealogies also the Welsh Britons haue plentie in their
owne toong, insomuch that manie of them can readilie deriue the same,
either from Brute or some of his band, euen vnto Æneas and other of the
Troians, and so foorth vnto Noah without anie maner of stop. But as I
know not what credit is to be giuen vnto them in this behalfe, although
I must néeds confesse that their ancient Bards were verie diligent in
there collection, and had also publike allowance or salarie for the
same; so I dare not absolutelie impugne their assertions, sith that in
times past all nations (learning it no doubt of the Hebrues) did verie
solemnelie preserue the catalogs of their descents, thereby either to
shew themselues of ancient and noble race, or else to be descended from
some one of the gods. But
Stemmata quid faciunt? quid prodest Pontice longo
Sanguine censeri? aut quid auorum ducere turmas? &c.
[Page 24]
Latine.
Next vnto the British speach, the Latine toong was brought in by the
Romans, and in maner generallie planted through the whole region, as the
French was after by the Normans. Of this toong I will not say much,
bicause there are few which be not skilfull in the same. Howbeit, as the
speach it selfe is easie and delectable, so hath it peruerted the names
of the ancient riuers, regions, & cities of Britaine in such wise, that
in these our daies their old British denominations are quite growne out
of memorie, and yet those of the new Latine left as most vncertaine.
This remaineth also vnto my time, borowed from the Romans, that all our
déeds, euidences, charters, & writings of record, are set downe in the
Latine toong, though now verie barbarous, and therevnto the copies and
court-rolles, and processes of courts and leets registred in the same.
The Saxon toong.
The third language apparantlie knowne is the Scithian or high Dutch,
induced at the first by the Saxons (which the Britons call Saysonaec, as
they doo the speakers Sayson) an hard and rough kind of speach, God wot,
when our nation was brought first into acquaintance withall, but now
changed with vs into a farre more fine and easie kind of vtterance, and
so polished and helped with new and milder words, that it is to be
aduouched how there is no one speach vnder the sunne spoken in our time,
that hath or can haue more varietie of words, copie of phrases, or
figures and floures of eloquence, than hath our English toong, although
some haue affirmed vs rather to barke as dogs, than talke like men,
bicause the most of our words (as they doo indéed) incline vnto one
syllable. This also is to be noted as a testimonie remaining still of
our language, deriued from the Saxons, that the generall name for the
most part of euerie skilfull artificer in his trade endeth in Here with
vs, albeit the H be left out, and er onlie inserted, as Scriuenhere,
writehere, shiphere, &c: for scriuener, writer, and shipper, &c: beside
manie other relikes of that spéech, neuer to be abolished.
The French toong.
After the Saxon toong, came the Norman or French language ouer into our
countrie, and therein were our lawes written for a long time. Our
children also were by an especiall decrée taught first to speake the
same, and therevnto inforced to learne their constructions in the
French, whensoeuer they were set to the Grammar schoole. In like sort
few bishops, abbats, or other clergie men, were admitted vnto anie
ecclesiasticall function here among vs, but such as came out of
religious houses from beyond the seas, to the end they should not vse
the English toong in their sermons to the people. In the court also it
grew into such contempt, that most men thought it no small dishonor to
speake any English there. Which brauerie tooke his hold at the last
likewise in the countrie with euerie plowman, that euen the verie
carters began to wax wearie of there mother toong, & laboured to speake
French, which as then was counted no small token of gentilitie. And no
maruell, for euerie French rascall, when he came once hither, was taken
for a gentleman, onelie bicause he was proud, and could vse his owne
language, and all this (I say) to exile the English and British speaches
quite out of the countrie. But in vaine, for in the time of king Edward
the first, to wit, toward the latter end of his reigne, the French it
selfe ceased to be spoken generallie, but most of all and by law in the
midst of Edward the third, and then began the English to recouer and
grow in more estimation than before; notwithstanding that among our
artificers, the most part of their implements, tooles and words of art
reteine still their French denominations euen to these our daies, as the
language it selfe is vsed likewise in sundrie courts, bookes of record,
and matters of law; whereof here is no place to make any particular
The helpers of our English toong.
rehearsall. Afterward also, by diligent trauell of Geffray Chaucer, and
Iohn Gowre, in the time of Richard the second, and after them of Iohn
Scogan, and Iohn Lydgate monke of Berrie, our said toong was brought to
an excellent passe, notwithstanding that it neuer came vnto the type of
perfection, vntill the time of Quéene Elizabeth, wherein Iohn Iewell B.
of Sarum, Iohn Fox, and sundrie learned & excellent writers haue fullie
accomplished the ornature of the same, to their great praise and
immortall commendation; although not a few other doo greatlie séeke to
staine the same, by fond affectation of forren and strange words,
presuming that to be the best English, which is most corrupted with
[Page 25]
externall termes of eloquence, and sound of manie syllables. But as this
excellencie of the English toong is found in one, and the south part of
this Iland; so in Wales the greatest number (as I said) retaine still
their owne ancient language, that of the north part of the said countrie
being lesse corrupted than the other, and therefore reputed for the
better in their owne estimation and iudgement. This also is proper to vs
Englishmen apt to learne any forren toong.
Englishmen, that sith ours is a meane language, and neither too rough
nor too smooth in vtterance, we may with much facilitie learne any other
language, beside Hebrue, Gréeke & Latine, and speake it naturallie, as
if we were home-borne in those countries; & yet on the other side it
falleth out, I wot not by what other meanes, that few forren nations can
rightlie pronounce ours, without some and that great note of
imperfection, especiallie the French men, who also seldome write any
thing that sauoreth of English trulie. It is a pastime to read how
Natalis Comes in like maner, speaking of our affaires, dooth clip the
names of our English lords. But this of all the rest dooth bréed most
admiration with me, that if any stranger doo hit vpon some likelie
pronuntiation of our toong, yet in age he swarueth so much from the
same, that he is woorse therein than euer he was, and thereto
peraduenture halteth not a litle also in his owne, as I haue séene by
experience in Reginald Wolfe, and other, whereof I haue iustlie
maruelled.
The Cornish toong.
The Cornish and Deuonshire men, whose countrie the Britons call Cerniw,
haue a speach in like sort of their owne, and such as hath in déed more
affinitie with the Armoricane toong than I can well discusse of. Yet in
mine opinion, they are both but a corrupted kind of Brittish, albeit so
far degenerating in these daies from the old, that if either of them doo
méete with a Welshman, they are not able at the first to vnderstand one
an other, except here and there in some od words, without the helpe of
interpretors. And no maruell in mine opinion that the British of
Cornewall is thus corrupted, sith the Welsh toong that is spoken in the
north & south part of Wales, doth differ so much in it selfe, as the
English vsed in Scotland dooth from that which is spoken among vs here
in this side of the Iland, as I haue said alreadie.
Scottish english.
The Scottish english hath beene much broader and lesse pleasant in
vtterance than ours, because that nation hath not till of late indeuored
to bring the same to any perfect order, and yet it was such in maner, as
Englishmen themselues did speake for the most part beyond the Trent,
whither any great amendement of our language had not as then extended it
selfe. Howbeit in our time the Scottish language endeuoreth to come
neere, if not altogither to match our toong in finenesse of phrase, and
copie of words, and this may in part appeare by an historie of the
Apocripha translated into Scottish verse by Hudson, dedicated to the
king of that countrie, and conteining sixe books, except my memorie doo
faile me.
Thus we sée how that vnder the dominion of the king of England, and in
the south parts of the realme, we haue thrée seuerall toongs, that is to
saie, English, British, and Cornish, and euen so manie are in Scotland,
if you accompt the English speach for one: notwithstanding that for
bredth and quantitie of the region, I meane onelie of the soile of the
maine Iland, it be somewhat lesse to see to than the other. For in the
The wild Scots.
Redshanks.
Rough footed Scots.
north part of the region, where the wild Scots, otherwise called the
Redshanks, or rough footed Scots (because they go bare footed and clad
in mantels ouer their saffron shirts after the Irish maner) doo inhabit,
Irish Scots.
Irish speech.
they speake good Irish which they call Gachtlet, as they saie of one
Gathelus, whereby they shew their originall to haue in times past béene
fetched out of Ireland: as I noted also in the chapiter precedent, and
wherevnto Vincentius cap. de insulis Oceani dooth yéeld his assent,
saieng that Ireland was in time past called Scotia; "Scotia eadem (saith
he) & Hibernia, proxima Britanniæ insula, spatio terrarum angustior, sed
situ fœcundior; Scotia autem à Scotorum gentibus traditur appellata,
&c." Out of the 14. booke of Isidorus intituled Originum, where he also
addeth that it is called Hybernia, because it bendeth toward Iberia. But
I find elsewhere that it is so called by certeine Spaniards which came
to seeke and plant their inhabitation in the same, wherof in my
Chronologie I haue spoken more at large.
In the Iles of the Orchades, or Orkeney, as we now call them, & such
[Page 26]
coasts of Britaine as doo abbut vpon the same, the Gottish or Danish
speach is altogither in vse, and also in Shetland, by reason (as I take
it) that the princes of Norwaie held those Ilands so long vnder their
subiection, albeit they were otherwise reputed as rather to belong to
Ireland, bicause that the verie soile of them is enimie to poison, as
some write, although for my part I had neuer any sound experience of the
truth hereof. And thus much haue I thought good to speake of our old
speaches, and those fiue languages now vsuallie spoken within the limits
of our Iland.
Britaine at the first one entire kingdome.
It is not to be doubted, but that at the first, the whole Iland was
ruled by one onelie prince, and so continued from time to time, vntill
ciuill discord, grounded vpō ambitious desire to reigne, caused the
same to be gouerned by diuerse. And this I meane so well of the time
before the comming of Brute, as after the extinction of his whole race &
posteritie. Howbeit, as it is vncerteine into how manie regions it was
seuered, after the first partition; so it is most sure that this latter
disturbed estate of regiment, continued in the same, not onelie vntill
the time of Cæsar, but also in maner vnto the daies of Lucius, with
whome the whole race of the Britons had an end, and the Romans full
possession of this Iland, who gouerned it by Legats after the maner of a
prouince. It should séeme also that within a while after the time of
Dunwallon (who rather brought those foure princes that vsurped in his
time to obedience, than extinguished their titles, & such partition as
they had made of the Iland among themselues) each great citie had hir
fréedome and seuerall kind of regiment, proper vnto hir selfe, beside a
large circuit of the countrie appertinent vnto the same, wherein were
sundrie other cities also of lesse name, which owght homage and all
subiection vnto the greater sort. And to saie truth, hereof it came to
passe, that each of these regions, whereinto this Iland was then
diuided, tooke his name of some one of these cities; although Ciuitas
after Cæsar doth sometime signifie an whole continent or kingdome,
whereby there were in old time Tot ciuitates quot regna, and
contrariwise as may appeare by that of the Trinobantes, which was so
called of Trinobantum the chiefe citie of that portion, whose
territories conteined all Essex, Middlesex, and part of Hertfordshire,
euen as the iurisdiction of the bishop of London is now extended, for
the ouersight of such things as belong vnto the church. Ech of the
gouernors also of these regions, called themselues kings, and therevnto
either of them dailie made warre vpon other, for the inlarging of their
limits. But for somuch as I am not able to saie how manie did challenge
this authoritie at once, and how long they reigned ouer their seuerall
portions, I will passe ouer these ancient times, and come néerer vnto
our owne, I meane the 600. yéere of Christ, whereof we haue more
certeine notice, & at which season there is euident proofe, that there
were twelue or thirtéene kings reigning in this Iland.
Wales diuided into three kingdomes.
We find therefore for the first, how that Wales had hir thrée seuerall
kingdomes, which being accompted togither conteined (as Giraldus saith)
49. cantreds or cantons (whereof thrée were in his time possessed by the
French and English) although that whole portion of the Iland extended in
those daies no farder than about 200. miles in length, and one hundred
in bredth, and was cut from Lhoegres by the riuers Sauerne and Dee, of
which two streames this dooth fall into the Irish sea at Westchester,
the other into the maine Ocean, betwixt Somersetshire and Southwales, as
their seuerall courses shall witnesse more at large.
Gwinhed.
In the begining it was diuided into two kingdoms onelie, that is to
saie, Venedotia or Gwynhedh (otherwise called Deheubarth) and Demetia,
for which we now vse most cōmonlie the names of South & Northwales.
But in a short processe of time a third sprung vp in the verie middest
betwéene them both, which from thence-foorth was called Powisy, as
shalbe shewed hereafter. For Roderijc the great, who flourished 850. of
[Page 27]
Christ, and was king of all Wales (which then conteined onlie six
regions) leauing thrée sons behind him, by his last will & testament
diuided the countrie into thrée portions, according to the number of his
children, of which he assigned one vnto either of them, wherby Morwing
or Morwinner had Gwynhedh or Northwales, Cadelh Demetia or Southwales,
and Anaralt Powisy, as Giraldus and other doo remember. Howbeit it came
to passe that after this diuision, Cadelh suruiued all his brethren, and
thereby became lord of both their portions, and his successors after him
vntill the time of Teuther or Theodor (all is one) after which they were
contented to kéepe themselues within the compasse of Demetia, which (as
I said) conteined 29. of those 49. cantreds before mentioned, as Powisy
did six, and Gwinhedh fourtéene, except my memorie doo faile me.
Venedotia.
The first of these thrée, being called (as I said) Northwales or
Venedotia (or as Paulus Iouius saith Malfabrene, for he diuideth Wales
also into thrée regions, of which he calleth the first Dumbera, the
second Berfrona, and the third Malfabrene) lieth directlie ouer against
Anglesei.
the Ile of Anglesei, the chiefe citie whereof stood in the Ile of
Anglesei and was called Aberfraw. It conteineth 4. regions, of which the
said Iland is the first, and whereof in the chapter insuing I wille
Arfon.
intreat more at large. The second is called Arfon, and situate betweene
Merioneth.
two riuers, the Segwy and the Conwy. The third is Merioneth, and as it
Stradcluyd or Tegenia.
is seuered from Arfon by the Conwy, so is it separated from Tegenia
(otherwise called Stradcluyd and Igenia the fourth region) by the riuer
Cluda. Finallie, the limits of this latter are extended also euen vnto
the Dée it selfe, and of these foure regions consisteth the kingdome of
Venedotia, whereof in times past the region of the Canges was not the
smallest portion.
Powisy.
The kingdome of Powisy, last of all erected, as I said, hath on the
north side Gwinhedh, on the east (from Chester to Hereford, or rather to
Deane forest) England, on the south and west the riuer Wy and verie high
hilles, whereby it is notablie seuered from Southwales, the chiefe citie
thereof being at the first Salopsburg, in old time Pengwerne, and
Ynwithig, but now Shrowesburie, a citie or towne raised out of the
ruines of Vricouium, which (standing 4. miles from thence, and by the
Saxons called Wrekencester and Wrokecester, before they ouerthrew it) is
now inhabited with méere English, and where in old time the kings of
Powisy did dwell and hold their palaces, till Englishmen draue them from
thence to Matrauall in the same prouince, where they from thencefoorth
aboad. Vpon the limits of this kingdome, and not far from Holt castell,
vpon ech side of the riuer, as the chanell now runneth, stood sometime
Bangor.
the famous monasterie of Bangor, whilest the abated glorie of the
Britons yet remained vnextinguished, and herein were 2100. monkes, of
which, the learned sort did preach the Gospell, and the vnlearned
labored with their hands, thereby to mainteine themselues, and to
sustaine their preachers. This region was in like sort diuided afterward
Mailrosse.
in twaine, of which, the one was called Mailor or Mailrosse, the other
reteined still hir old denomination, and of these the first laie by
south, & the latter by north of the Sauerne.
Fowkes de Warren.
As touching Mailrosse, I read moreouer in the gests of Fowkes de Warren,
how that one William sonne to a certeine ladie sister to Paine Peuerell,
the first lord of Whittington, after the conquest did win a part of the
same, and the hundred of Ellesmore from the Welshmen, in which
enterprise he was so desperatlie wounded, that no man hight him life;
yet at the last by eating of the shield of a wild bore, he got an
appetite and recouered his health. This William had issue two daughters,
Helene.
Mellent.
to wit, Helene maried to the heir of the Alans, and Mellent which
refused mariage with anie man, except he were first tried to be a knight
of prowesse. Herevpon hir father made proclamation, that against such a
daie & at such a place, whatsoeuer Gentleman could shew himselfe most
valiant in the field, should marrie Mellent his daughter, & haue with
hir his castell of Whittington with sufficient liueliehood to mainteine
their estates for euer. This report being spred, Fowkes de Warren came
thither all in red, with a shield of siluer and pecocke for his crest,
whereof he was called the red knight, and there ouercomming the kings
sonne of Scotland, and a Baron of Burgundie, he maried the maid, and by
hir had issue as in the treatise appeareth. There is yet great mention
of the red knight in the countrie there about; and much like vnto this
[Page 28]
Mellent was the daughter sometime of one of the lord Rosses, called
The originall of Fitz Henries.
Kudall, who bare such good will to Fitz-Henrie clarke of hir fathers
kitchen, that she made him carie hir awaie on horssebacke behind him,
onlie for his manhood sake, which presentlie was tried. For being
pursued & ouer taken, she made him light, & held his cloke whilest he
killed and draue hir fathers men to flight: and then awaie they go, till
hir father conceiuing a good opinion of Fitz-Henrie for this act,
receiued him to his fauour, whereby that familie came vp. And thus much
(by the waie) of Mailrosse, whereof this may suffice, sith mine intent
is not as now to make anie precise description of the particulars of
Wales; but onelie to shew how those regions laie, which sometime were
Demetia.
knowne to be gouerned in that countrie. The third kingdome is Demetia, or
Southwales, sometime knowne for the region of the Syllures, wherevnto I
also am persuaded, that the Ordolukes laie in the east part thereof, and
extended their region euen vnto the Sauerne: but howsoeuer that matter
falleth out, Demetia hath the Sauerne on hir south, the Irish sea on hir
west parts, on the east the Sauerne onelie, and by north the land of
Powisy, whereof I spake of late.
Cair Maridunum.
Of this region also Caermarden, which the old writers call Maridunum,
was the chéefe citie and palace belonging to the kings of Southwales,
vntill at the last through forren and ciuill inuasions of enimies, the
princes thereof were constrained to remooue their courts to Dinefar
(which is in Cantermawr, and situate neuerthelesse vpon the same riuer
Tewy, wheron Caermarden standeth) in which place it is far better
defended with high hils, thicke woods, craggie rocks, and déepe marises.
In this region also lieth Pembroke aliàs Penmoroc shire, whose fawcons
haue béene in old time very much regarded, and therein likewise is
Milford hauen, whereof the Welsh wisards doo yet dreame strange toies,
which they beleeue shall one daie come to passe. For they are a nation
much giuen to fortelling of things to come, but more to beléeue such
blind prophesies as haue béene made of old time, and no man is accompted
for learned in Wales that is not supposed to haue the spirit of
prophesie.
Pictland.
Scotland.
Picts.
Scots.
That Scotland had in those daies two kingdoms, (besides that of the
Orchades) whereof the one consisted of the Picts, and was called
Pightland or Pictland, the other of the Irish race, and named Scotland:
I hope no wise man will readilie denie. The whole region or portion of
the Ile beyond the Scotish sea also was so diuided, that the Picts laie
on the east side, and the Scots on the west, ech of them being seuered
from other, either by huge hils or great lakes and riuers, that ran out
of the south into the north betwéene them. It séemeth also that at the
first these two kingdoms were diuided from the rest of those of the
Britons by the riuers Cluda and Forth, till both of them desirous to
inlarge their dominions, draue the Britons ouer the Solue and the Twede,
which then became march betweene both the nations. Wherefore the case
being so plaine, I will saie no more of these two, but procéed in order
with the rehersall of the rest of the particular kingdoms of this our
south part of the Ile, limiting out the same by shires as they now lie,
so néere as I can, for otherwise it shall be vnpossible for me to leaue
certaine notice of the likeliest quantities of these their seuerall
portions.
Kent Henghist.
The first of these kingdoms therefore was begunne in Kent by Henghist in
the 456. of Christ, and thereof called the kingdome of Kent or
Cantwarland, and as the limits thereof extended it selfe no farther than
the said countie (the cheefe citie whereof was Dorobernia or Cantwarbyry
now Canturburie) so it indured well néere by the space of 400. yeares,
before it was made an earledome or Heretochie, and vnited by Inas vnto
that of the West Saxons, Athelstane his sonne, being the first Earle or
Heretoch of the same. Maister Lambert in his historie of Kent dooth
gather, by verie probable coniectures, that this part of the Iland was
first inhabited by Samothes, and afterward by Albion. But howsoeuer that
case standeth, sure it is that it hath béen the onelie doore, whereby
the Romans and Saxons made their entrie vnto the conquest of the region,
but first of all Cæsar, who entred into this Iland vpon the eightéenth
Cal. or 14. of September, which was foure daies before the full of the
moone, as he himselfe confesseth, and then fell out about the 17. or 18.
of that moneth, twelue daies before the equinoctiall (apparant) so that
[Page 29]
he did not tarrie at that time aboue eight or ten daies in Britaine. And
as this platforme cannot be denied for his entrance, so the said region
and east part of Kent, was the onelie place by which the knowledge of
Christ was first brought ouer vnto vs, whereby we became partakers of
saluation, and from the darkenesse of mistie errour, true conuerts vnto
the light and bright beames of the shining truth, to our eternall
benefit and euerlasting comforts.
Southsax.
Ella.
The second kingdome conteined onelie Sussex, and a part of (or as some
saie all) Surrie, which Ella the Saxon first held: who also erected his
chéefe palace at Chichester, when he had destroied Andredswald in the
492. of Christ. And after it had continued by the space of 232. years,
it ceased, being the verie least kingdome of all the rest, which were
founded in this Ile after the comming of the Saxons (for to saie truth,
it conteined little aboue 7000. families) & within a while after the
erection of the kingdome of the Gewisses or Westsaxons, notwithstanding
that before the kings of Sussex pretended and made claime to all that
which laie west of Kent, and south of the Thames, vnto the point of
Corinwall, as I haue often read.
Eastsax.
Erkenwiin.
The third regiment was of the East Saxons, or Tribonantes. This
kingdome began vnder Erkenwijn, whose chéefe seat was in London (or
rather Colchester) and conteined whole Essex, Middlesex, and part of
Herfordshire. It indured also much about the pricke of 303. yeares, and
was diuided from that of the East Angles onlie by the riuer Stoure, as
Houeden and others doo report, & so it continueth separated from
Suffolke euen vnto our times, although the said riuer be now growne
verie small, and not of such greatnesse as it hath béene in times past,
by reason that our countriemen make small accompt of riuers, thinking
carriage made by horsse and cart to be the lesse chargeable waie. But
herin how far they are deceiued, I will else-where make manifest
declaration.
Westsax.
The fourth kingdome was of the West Saxons, and so called, bicause it
laie in the west part of the realme, as that of Essex did in the east,
Cerdiic.
and of Sussex in the south. It began in the yeare of Grace 519. vnder
Cerdijc, and indured vntill the comming of the Normans, including at the
last all Wiltshire, Barkeshire, Dorset, Southampton, Somersetshire,
Glocestershire, some part of Deuonshire (which the Britons occupied not)
Cornewall, and the rest of Surrie, as the best authors doo set downe. At
the first it conteined onelie Wiltshire, Dorcetshire, and Barkeshire,
but yer long the princes thereof conquered whatsoeuer the kings of
Sussex and the Britons held vnto the point of Cornewall, and then became
first Dorchester (vntill the time of Kinigils) then Winchester the
chéefe citie of that kingdome. For when Birinus the moonke came into
England, the said Kinigils gaue him Dorchester, and all the land within
seauen miles about, toward the maintenance of his cathedrall sea, by
meanes whereof he himselfe remooued his palace to Winchester.
Brennicia, aliàs Northumberland.
The fift kingdome began vnder Ida, in the 548. of Christ, and was called
Northumberland, bicause it laie by north of the riuer Humber. And from
Ida.
the comming of Henghist to this Ida, it was onlie gouerned by earls or
Heretoches as an Heretochy, till the said Ida conuerted it into a
kingdome. It conteined all that region which (as it should séeme) was in
time past either wholie apperteining to the Brigants, or whereof the
said Brigants did possesse the greater part. The cheefe citie of the
same in like maner was Yorke, as Beda, Capgraue, Leyland, and others doo
set downe, who ad thereto that it extended from the Humber vnto the
Scotish sea, vntill the slaughter of Egfride of the Northumbers, after
which time the Picts gat hold of all, betweene the Forth and the Twede,
which afterward descending to the Scots by meanes of the vtter
destruction of the Picts, hath not béene sithens vnited to the crowne of
England, nor in possession of the meere English, as before time it had
béene. Such was the crueltie of these Picts also in their recouerie of
the same, that at a certeine houre they made a Sicilien euensong, and
slew euerie English man, woman and child, that they could laie hold vpon
within the aforesaid region, but some escaped narrowlie, and saued
themselues by flight.
Deira.
Afterward in the yeare of Grace 560. it was parted in twaine, vnder Adda,
that yeelded vp all his portion, which lay betweene Humber and the Tine
Ella.
vnto his brother Ella (according to their fathers appointment) who
[Page 30]
called it Deira, or Southumberland, but reteining the rest still vnto
his owne vse, he diminished not his title, but wrote himselfe as before
king of all Northumberland. Howbeit after 91. yeares, it was revnited
againe, and so continued vntill Alfred annexed the whole to his
kingdome, in the 331. after Ida, or 878. of the birth of Jesus Christ
our Sauiour.
Eastangles Offa, à quo Offlingæ.
The seauenth kingdome, called of the East-Angles, began at Norwich in
the 561. after Christ, vnder Offa, of whom the people of that region
were long time called Offlings. This included all Norfolke, Suffolke,
Cambridgeshire, and Elie, and continuing 228. yeares, it flourished
onelie 35. yeares in perfect estate of liberte, the rest being consumed
vnder the tribut and vassallage of the Mercians, who had the
souereigntie thereof, and held it with great honour, till the Danes gat
hold of it, who spoiled it verie sore, so that it became more miserable
than any of the other, and so remained till the kings of the West-saxons
vnited it to their crownes. Some saie that Grantcester, but now
Cambridge (a towne erected out of hir ruines) was the chéefe citie of
this kingdome, and not Norwich. Wherein I may well shew the discord of
writers, but I cannot resolue the scruple. Some take this region also to
be all one with that of the Icenes, but as yet for my part I cannot
yeeld to their assertions, I meane it of Leland himselfe, whose helpe I
vse chéefelie in these collections, albeit in this behalfe I am not
resolued that he doth iudge aright.
The 8. & last was that of Mertia, which indured 291. yeares, and for
greatnesse exceeded all the rest. It tooke the name either of Mearc the
Saxon word, bicause it was march to the rest (and trulie, the limits of
most of the other kingdomes abutted vpon the same) or else for that the
Mertia.
lawes of Martia the Queene were first vsed in that part of the Iland.
But as this later is but a méere coniecture of some, so the said
Creodda.
kingdome began vnder Creodda, in the 585. of Christ, & indured well
néere 300. yeares before it was vnited to that of the West-saxons by
Alfred, then reigning in this Ile. Before him the Danes had gotten hold
thereof, and placed one Ceolulph an idiot in the same; but as he was
soone reiected for his follie, so it was not long after yer the said
Alfred (I saie) annexed it to his kingdome by his manhood. The limits
Limits of Mertia.
of the Mertian dominions included Lincolne, Northampton, Chester,
Darbie, Nottingham, Stafford, Huntington, Rutland, Oxford, Buckingham,
Worcester, Bedford shires, and the greatest part of Shropshire (which
the Welsh occupied not) Lancaster, Glocester, Hereford (alias Hurchford)
Warwijc and Hertford shires: the rest of whose territories were holden
by such princes of other kingdomes through force as bordered vpon the
same. Moreouer, this kingdome was at one time diuided into south and
north Mertia, whereof this laie beyond and the other on this side of the
Trent, which later also Oswald of Northumberland did giue to Weada the
sonne of Penda for kindred sake, though he not long inioied it. This
also is worthie to be noted, that in these eight kingdomes of the
Saxons, there were twelue princes reputed in the popish Catalog for
saints or martyrs, of which Alcimund, Edwine, Oswald, Oswijn and Aldwold
reigned in Northumberland; Sigebert, Ethelbert, Edmond, and another
Sigebert among the Estangels; Kenelme and Wistan in Mertia; and Saint
Edward the confessor, ouer all; but how worthilie, I referre me to the
iudgement of the learned. Thus much haue I thought good to leaue in
memorie of the aforesaid kingdomes: and now will I speake somewhat of
the diuision of this Iland also into prouinces, as the Romanes seuered
it whiles they remained in these parts. Which being done, I hope that I
haue discharged whatsoeuer is promised in the title of this chapter.
The Romans therefore hauing obteined the possession of this Iland,
diuided the same at the last into fiue prouinces, as Vibius Sequester
Britannia prima.
saith. The first whereof was named Britannia prima, and conteined the
east part of England (as some doo gather) from the Trent vnto the Twede.
Valentia.
The second was called Valentia or Valentiana, and included the west
side, as they note it, from Lirpoole vnto Cokermouth. The third hight
Britannia secunda.
Britannia secunda, and was that portion of the Ile which laie
Flauia Cæsariensis.
southwards, betwéene the Trent and the Thames. The fourth was surnamed
Flauia Cæsariensis, and conteined all the countrie which remained
betweene Douer and the Sauerne, I meane by south of the Thames, and
wherevnto (in like sort) Cornewall and Wales were orderlie assigned.
[Page 31]
Maxima Cæsariensis.
The fift and last part was then named Maxima Cæsariensis, now Scotland,
the most barren of all the rest, and yet not vnsought out of the gréedie
Romanes, bicause of the great plentie of fish and foule, fine alabaster
and hard marble that are ingendred and to be had in the same, for
furniture of houshold and curious building, wherein they much delited.
More hereof in Sextus Rufus, who liued in the daies of Valentine, and
wrate Notitiam prouinciarum now extant to be read.
OF THE KINGS OF BRITAINE, FROM SAMOTHES TO BRUTE.
Samothes.
Magus.
Sarronius.
Druiyus.
Bardus.
Longho.
Bardus Iunior.
Lucus.
Celtes.
Albion.
Celtes after Albion slaine.
Galates.
Harbon.
Lugdus.
Beligius.
Iasius.
Allobrox.
Romus.
Paris.
Lemanus.
Olbius.
Galates. 2.
Nannes.
Remis.
Francus.
Pictus.
After whom Brute entreth into the Iland, either neglected by the Celts, or
otherwise by conquest, and reigned therein with his posteritie by the space
of 636. yeares, in such order as foloweth.
Brute.
Locrinus.
Gwendolena his widow.
Madan.
Mempricius.
Ebracus.
Brutus Iunior.
Leil.
Rudibras.
Bladunus.
Leir.
Cordeil his daughter.
Cunedach and Morgan.
Riuallon.
Gurgustius.
Sisillus.
Iago.
Kimmachus.
Gorbodug.
Ferres and Porrex.
These 2. being slaine, the princes of the land straue for the superioritie and
regiment of the same, by the space of 50. yéeres (after the race of Brute
was decaied) vntill Dunwallon king of Cornwall subdued them all, &
brought the whole to his subiection, notwithstanding that the aforesaid
number of kings remained still, which were but as vassals & inferiours
to him, he being their chéefe and onelie souereigne.
Dunwallon reigneth.
Belinus his sonne, in whose time Brennus vsurpeth.
Gurgwinbatrus.
Guittellinus.
Seisili.
Kymarus.
Owan aliàs Ellan.
Morwich aliàs Morindus.
Grandobodian aliàs Gorbonian.
Arcigallon.
Elidurus aliàs Hesidor.
Arcigallon againe.
Elidurus againe.
Vigen aliàs Higanius, & Petitur aliàs Peridurus.
Elidurus the third time.
Gorbodia aliàs Gorbonian.
Morgan.
Meriones aliàs Eighuans.
Idouallon.
Rhimo Rohugo.
Geruntius Voghen.
Catellus.
Coellus.
Pyrrho aliàs Porrex.
Cherinus.
Fulganius aliàs Sulgenis.
Eldadus.
Androgius.
Vrian.
Hellindus.
Dedantius Eldagan.
Clotenis Claten.
Gurguintus.
Merian.
Bledunus Bledagh.
Cophenis.
Owinus aliàs Oghwen.
Sisillus or Sitsiltus.
Blegabridus.
Arcimalus Archiuall.
Eldadus.
Ruthenis thrée moneths.
Rodingarus aliàs Rodericus.
Samulius Penysell.
Pyrrho 2.
Carporis aliàs Capporis.
Dynellus aliàs Dygnellus.
Hellindus a few moneths.
Lhoid.
Casibellane.
Theomantius.
Cynobellinus.
Aruiragus.
Marius.
Coellus.
Lucius.
Hitherto I haue set foorth the catalog of the kings of Britaine, in such sort
as it is to be collected out of the most ancient histories, monuments and
records of the land. Now I will set foorth the order and succession of the
Romane legates or deputies, as I haue borowed them first out of Tacitus,
then Dion, and others: howbeit I cannot warrant the iust course of
them from Iulius Agricola forward, bicause there is no man that reherseth
them orderlie. Yet by this my dooing herein, I hope some better table
may be framed hereafter by other, wherof I would be glad to vnderstand
when soeuer it shall please God that it may come to passe.
Aulus Plautius.
Ostorius Scapula.
Didius Gallus.
Auitus.
Veranius a few moneths.
Petronius Turpilianus.
Trebellius Maximus.
Vectius Volanus.
Petilius Cerealis.
Iulius Frontinus.
Iulius Agricola.
Hitherto Cornelius Tacitus reherseth these vicegerents or deputies in order.
Salustius Lucullus.
Cneius Trebellius.
Suetonius Paulinus.
Calphurnius Agricola.
Publius Trebellius.
Pertinax Helrius.
Vlpius Marcellus.
Clodius Albinas.
Heraclius.
Carus Tyrannus.
Iunius Seuerus, aliàs
Iulius Seuerus.
Linius Gallus.
Lollius Vrbicus.
Maximus.
Octauius.
Traherus.[Page 32]
Maximinianus.
Gratianus.
Aetius.
Other Legates whose names are taken out of the Scotish historie but in incertein order.
Fronto sub Antonino.
Publius Trebellius.
Aulus Victorinus.
Lucius Antinoris.
Quintus Bassianus.
¶ The Romans not regarding the gouernance of this Iland, the Britons ordeine
a king in the 447. after the incarnation of Christ.
Vortiger.
Vortimer.
Aurelius Ambrosius.
Vther.
Arthur.
Constantine.
Aurelius Conanus.
Vortiporius.
Maglocunus.
Caretius.
Cadwan.
Cadwallon.
Cadwallader.
¶ The kingdome of Wales ceaseth, and the gouernance of the countrie is
translated to the Westsaxons by Inas, whose second wife was Denwalline
the daughter of Cadwallader: & with hir he not onlie obteined the
principalitie of Wales but also of Corinwall & Armorica now called little
Britaine, which then was a colonie of the Britons, and vnder the kingdome of Wales.
¶ Hengist in the 9. of the recouerie of Britaine proclaimeth himselfe king
of Kent, which is the 456. of the birth of our Lord & sauior Jesus Christ.
Hengist.
Osrijc aliàs Osca.
Osca his brother.
Ermenricus.
Athelbert.
Eadbaldus.
Ercombert.
Ecbert.
Lother.
Edrijc.
The seat void.
Withredus.
Adelbert Iunior.
Eadbert.
Alrijc.
Eadbert.
Guthred.
Alred.
¶ As the kingdome of Wales was vnited vnto that of the Westsaxons by Inas, so is the kingdom
of Kent, at this present by Ecbert in the 827. of Christ, who putteth out Aldred and maketh
Adelstane his owne base sonne Hertoch of the same, so that whereas it was before a kingdome,
now it becometh an Hertochie or Dukedome, and so continueth for a long time after.
¶ Ella in the 46. after Britaine giuen ouer by the Romanes erecteth a kingdom
in Southsex, to wit, in the 492. of Christ whose race succeedeth in this order.
Ella.
Cyssa.
Ceaulijn.
Celrijc.
Kilwulf.
Kinigils.
Kinwalch.
Ethelwold.
Berthun.
Aldwijn.
¶ This kingdome endured not verie long as ye may sée, for it was vnited to that of the Westsaxons
by Inas, in the 4689. of the world, which was the 723. of Christ, according to the vsuall supputation
of the church, and 232. after Ella had erected the same, as is aforesaid.
¶ Erkenwijn in the 527. after our sauiour Christ beginneth to reigne ouer Estsex, and in the 81.
after the returne of Britaine from the Romaine obedience.
Erkenwijn.
Sledda.
Sebertus.
Sepredus and Sywardus.
Sigebert fil. Syward.
Sigebert.
Swithelijn.
Sijgar and Sebba.
Sebba alone.
Sijgard.
Offa.
Selredus.
Ethelwold.
Albert.
Humbcanna.
Sinthredus.
¶ In the 303. after Erkenwijn, Ecbert of the Westsaxons vnited the kingdome of Estsex vnto his
owne, which was in the 828. after the birth of our sauiour Christ. I cannot as yet find the exact
yéeres of the later princes of this realme, and therefore I am constrained to omit them altogither, as
I haue done before in the kings of the Britons, vntill such time as I may come by such monuments
as may restore the defect.
¶ Cerdijc entreth the kingdome of the Westsaxons, in the 519. of the birth of Christ, & 73. of the
abiection of the Romaine seruitude.
Cerdijc aliàs Cercit.
Cenrijc.
Ceaulijn.
Kilriic aliàs Celrijc.
Kilwulf.
Kinigils.
Ceuwalch.
Sexburgh.
The seat void.
Centwinus.
Cadwallader.
Inas.
Ethelard.
Cuthredus.
Sigebert.
Kinwulf.
Brithrijc.
Ecbert.
Ethelwulf.
Ethebald.
Ethelbert.
Ethelfrid.
Alfrid.
Edward I.
Adelstane.
Edmund.
Eadred.
Edwijn.
Edgar.
Edward 2.
Eldred.
Edmund 2.
Canutus.
Harald.
Canutus 2.
Edward 3.
Harald 2.
¶ The Saxons hauing reigned hitherto in this land, and brought the same into a perfect monarchie,
are now dispossessed by the Normans, & put out of their hold.
¶ Ida erecteth a kingdome in the North, which he extended from the Humber mouth to S. Johns
towne in Scotland, & called it of the Northumbers. This was in the 547. after the birth of
our sauiour Christ.
Ida.
Adda.
Glappa.
Tidwaldus.
Fretwulfus.
Tidrijc.
Athelfrid.
Edwijn.
Kinfrid.
Oswald.
Oswy.
Egfrid.
Alfrid.
Osred.
Kinred.
Osrijc.
Kilwulf.
Edbert.
Offulse.
Ethelwold.[Page 33]
Elred.
Ethelred.
Alswold.
Osred.
Ethelred.
Osbald.
Eardulf.
Aldeswold.
Eandred.
Edelred.
Redwulf.
Edelred againe.
Osbright.
Ecbert.
Ricisiuus a Dane.
Ecbert againe.
¶ Alfride king of the Westsaxons subdueth this kingdome in the 878. after
our sauiour Christ, and 33. after Ida.
¶ Ella brother to Adda is ouer the south Humbers, whose kingdome reched from Humber to
the These, in the 590. after the incarnation of Jesus Christ our sauiour.
Ella.
Edwijn.
Athelbright.
Edwijn againe.
Osrijc.
Oswald.
Oswijn.
¶ Of all the kingdomes of the Saxons, this of Deira which grew by the diuision
of the kingdome of the Northumbers betwéene the sons of Ida was of the smallest continuance,
& it was vnited to the Northumbers (wherof it had bene I saie in time past a member)
by Oswijn in the 91. after Ella, when he had most traitorouslie slaine his brother Oswijn
in the yéer of the world, 4618. (or 651. after the comming of Christ) and
conteined that countrie which we now call the bishoprike.
¶ Offa or Vffa erecteth a kingdome ouer the Estangles or Offlings in the 561. after the natiuitie
of Christ, and 114. after the deliuerie of Britaine.
Offa.
Titellius.
Redwaldus.
Corpenwaldus.
The seat void.
Sigebert.
Egricus.
Anna.
Adeler.
Ethelwold.
Adwulf.
Beorne.
Ethelred.
Ethelbert.
¶ Offa of Mercia killeth Ethelbert, and vniteth Estanglia vnto his owne kingdome, in the 793. of
Christ, after it had continued in the posteritie of Offa, by the space of
228. yéers and yet of that short space, it enioyed onelie 35. in libertie, the
rest being vnder the tribute of the king of Mercia aforesaid.
¶ Creodda beginneth his kingdome of Mercia, in the 585. of our sauiour Christ, and 138. after
the captiuitie of Britaine ended.
Creodda.
Wibba.
Cherlus.
Penda.
Oswy.
Weada.
Wulferus.
Ethelred.
Kinred or Kindred.
The seat void.
Kilred.
Ethebald.
Beorred.
Offa.
Egferth.
Kinwulf.
Kenelme.
Kilwulf.
Bernulf.
Ludicane.
Willaf.
Ecbert.
Willaf againe.
Bertulf.
Butred.
Kilwulf.
¶ Alfride vniteth the kingdome of Mercia, to that of the Westsaxons, in the
291. after Creodda, before Alfred the Dane had gotten hold thereof, and
placed one Cleolulphus therein, but he was soone expelled, and the kingdome
ioyned to the other afore rehearsed.
* The Succession of the kings of England from William bastard, unto
the first of Queene Elizabeth.
William the first.
William his sonne.
Henrie 1.
Stephen.
Henrie 2.
Richard 1.
Iohn.
Henrie 3.
Edward 1. aliàs 4.
Edward 2.
Edward 3.
Richard 2.
Henrie 4.
Henrie 5.
Henrie 6.
Edward 4. aliàs 7.
Edward 5.
Richard 3.
Henrie 7.
Henrie 8.
Edward 6.
Marie his sister.
Elizabeth.
¶ Thus haue I brought the Catalog of the Princes of Britaine vnto an end, &
that in more plaine and certeine order than hath béene done hertofore
by anie. For though in their regions since the conquest few men haue
erred that haue vsed any diligence, yet in the times before the same,
fewer haue gone any thing néere the truth, through great ouersight
& negligence. Their seuerall yéeres also doo appéere in my Chronologie insuing.
It is not to be doubted, but at the first, and so long as the posteritie
of Iaphet onelie reigned in this Iland, that the true knowledge and forme
Samothes.
of religion brought in by Samothes, and published with his lawes in the
second of his arriuall, was exercised among the Britans. And although
peraduenture in proces of time, either through curiositie, or negligence
(the onelie corruptors of true pietie and godlinesse) it might a little
decaie, yet when it was at the woorst, it farre excéeded the best of
that which afterward came in with Albion and his Chemminites, as may be
[Page 34]
gathered by view of the superstitious rites, which Cham and his
successours did plant in other countries, yet to be found in authors.
What other learning Magus the sonne of Samothes taught after his fathers
death, when he also came to the kingdome, beside this which concerned
the true honoring of God, I cannot easilie say, but that it should be
naturall philosophie, and astrologie (whereby his disciples gathered a
kind of foreknowledge of things to come) the verie vse of the word Magus
(or Magusæus) among the Persians dooth yéeld no vncerteine testimonie.
Sarron.
In like maner, it should seeme that Sarron sonne vnto the said Magus,
diligentlie followed the steps of his father, and thereto beside his
owne practise of teaching, opened schooles of learning in sundrie
places, both among the Celts and Britans, whereby such as were his
auditors, grew to be called Sarronides, notwithstanding, that as well
the Sarronides as the Magi, and Druiydes, were generallie called
Samothei.
Semnothei.
Samothei, or Semnothei, of Samothes still among the Grecians, as
Aristotle in his De magia dooth confesse; and furthermore calling them
Galles, he addeth therevnto, that they first brought the knowledge of
letters and good learning vnto the Gréekes.
Druiyus.
Druiyus the son of Sarron (as a scholer of his fathers owne teaching)
séemed to be exquisit in all things, that perteined vnto the diuine and
humane knowledge: and therefore I may safelie pronounce, that he
excelled not onlie in the skill of philosophie and the quadriuials, but
also in the true Theologie, whereby the right seruice of God was kept
and preserued in puritie. He wrote moreouer sundrie precepts and rules
of religious doctrine, which among the Celts were reserued verie
religiouslie, and had in great estimation of such as sought vnto them.
Corruptors of religion.
How and in what order this prince left the state of religion, I meane
touching publike orders in administration of particular rites and
ceremonies, as yet I doo not read: howbeit this is most certeine, that
after he died, the puritie of his doctrine began somewhat to decaie. For
such is mans nature, that it will not suffer any good thing long to
remaine as it is left, but (either by addition or subtraction of this or
that, to or from the same) so to chop and change withall from time to
time, that in the end there is nothing of more difficultie, for such as
doo come after them, than to find out the puritie of the originall, and
restore the same againe vnto the former perfection.
Cæsar.
In the beginning this Druiyus did preach vnto his hearers, that the
soule of man is immortall, that God is omnipotent, mercifull as a father
in shewing fauor vnto the godlie, and iust as an vpright iudge in
punishing the wicked; that the secrets of mans hart are not vnknowne,
and onelie knowne to him; and that as the world and all that is therein
had their beginning by him, at his owne will, so shall all things
likewise haue an end, when he shall see his time. He taught them also
Strabo. li. 4.
Socion. lib. success.
with more facilitie, how to obserue the courses of the heauens and
motions of the planets by arithmeticall industrie, to find out the true
Cicero diuinat. I.
quantities of the celestiall bodies by geometricall demonstration, and
thereto the compasse of the earth, and hidden natures of things
contained in the same by philosophicall contemplation. But alas, this
integritie continued not long among his successors, for vnto the
immortalitie of the soule, they added, that after death it went into
another bodie, (of which translation Ouid saith;
Morte carent animæ, sempérque priore relicta
Sede, nouis domibus viuunt habitántque receptæ.)
The second or succedent, being alwaies either more noble, or more vile
than the former, as the partie deserued by his merits, whilest he liued
here vpon earth. And therefore it is said by Plato and other, that
Orpheus after his death had his soule thrust into the bodie of a swanne,
that of Agamemnon conueied into an egle, of Aiax into a lion, of Atlas
into a certeine wrestler, of Thersites into an ape, of Deiphobus into
Pythagoras, and Empedocles dieng a child, after sundrie changes into a
man, whereof he himselfe saith;
[Page 35]
Ipse ego námq; fui puer olim, deinde puella,
Arbustum & volucris, mutus quóq; in æquore piscis.
Plinius, lib. 16. cap. ultimo.
For said they (of whom Pythagoras also had, and taught this errour) if
the soule apperteined at the first to a king, and he in this estate did
not leade his life worthie his calling, it should after his decease be
Metempsuchôsis.
shut vp in the bodie of a slaue, begger, cocke, owle, dog, ape, horsse,
asse, worme, or monster, there to remaine as in a place of purgation and
punishment, for a certeine period of time. Beside this, it should
peraduenture susteine often translation from one bodie vnto another,
according to the quantitie and qualitie of his dooings here on earth,
till it should finallie be purified, and restored againe to an other
humane bodie, wherein if it behaued it selfe more orderlie than at the
first: after the next death, it should be preferred, either to the bodie
of a king againe, or other great estate. And thus they made a perpetuall
circulation or reuolution of our soules, much like vnto the continuall
motion of the heauens, which neuer stand still, nor long yeeld one
representation and figure. For this cause also, as Diodorus saith, they
vsed to cast certeine letters into the fire, wherein the dead were
burned, to be deliuered vnto their deceased fréends, whereby they might
vnderstand of the estate of such as trauelled here on earth in their
purgations (as the Moscouits doo write vnto S. Nicholas to be a
speach-man for him that is buried, in whose hand they bind a letter, and
send him with a new paire of shooes on his feet into the graue) and to
the end that after their next death they should deale with them
accordinglie, and as their merits required. They brought in also the
worshipping of manie gods, and their seuerall euen to this daie
Oke honored whereon mistle did grow, and so doo our sorcerers
thinking some spirits to deale about ye same, for hidden treasure.
sacrifices: they honoured likewise the oke, whereon the mistle groweth,
and dailie deuised infinit other toies (for errour is neuer assured of
hir owne dooings) whereof neither Samothes, nor Sarron, Magus, nor
Druiyus did leaue them anie prescription.
These things are partlie touched by Cicero, Strabo, Plinie, Sotion,
Laertius, Theophrast, Aristotle, and partlie also by Cæsar, Mela, Val.
Max. lib. 2. and other authors of later time, who for the most part doo
confesse, that the cheefe schoole of the Druiydes was holden here in
Britaine, where that religion (saith Plinie) was so hotlie professed and
followed, "Vt dedisse Persis videri possit," lib. 30. cap. 1. and
whither the Druiydes also themselues, that dwelt among the Galles, would
often resort to come by the more skill, and sure vnderstanding of the
mysteries of that doctrine. And as the Galles receiued their religion
Logike and Rhetorike out of Gallia.]
from the Britons, so we likewise had from them some vse of Logike &
Rhetorike, such as it was which our lawiers practised in their plees and
common causes. For although the Greeks were not vnknowne vnto vs, nor we
to them, euen from the verie comming of Brute, yet by reason of distance
betwéene our countries, we had no great familiaritie and common accesse
one vnto another, till the time of Gurguntius, after whose entrance
manie of that nation trauelled hither in more securitie, as diuers of
our countriemen did vnto them without all danger, to be offered vp in
sacrifice to their gods. That we had the maner of our plees also out of
France, Iuuenal is a witnesse, who saith;
Gallia causidicos docuit facunda Britannos.
Howbeit as they taught vs Logike and Rhetorike, so we had also some
Sophistrie from them; but in the worst sense: for from France is all
kind of forgerie, corruption of maners, and craftie behauiour not so
soone as often transported into England. And albeit the Druiydes were
thus honored and of so great authoritie in Britaine, yet were there
great numbers of them also in the Iles of Wight, Anglesey, and the
Orchades, in which they held open schooles of their profession, aloofe
as it were from the resort of people, wherein they studied and learned
their songs by heart. Howbeit the cheefe college of all I say, remained
still in Albion, whither the Druiydes of other nations also (beside the
Galles) would of custome repaire, when soeuer anie controuersie among
them in matters of religion did happen to be mooued. At such times also
the rest were called out of the former Ilands, whereby it appeareth that
in such cases they had their synods and publike meetings, and therevnto
[Page 36]
it grew finallie into custome, and after that a prouerbe, euen in
variances falling out among the princes, great men, and common sorts of
people liuing in these weast parts of Europe, to yeeld to be tried by
Britaine and hir thrée Ilands, bicause they honoured hir préests (the
Druiydes) as the Athenians did their Areopagites.
Estimation of the Druiydes or Druiysh preests.
Furthermore, in Britaine, and among the Galles, and to say the truth,
generallie in all places where the Druiysh religion was frequented, such
was the estimation of the préests of this profession, that there was
little or nothing doone without their skilfull aduise, no not in ciuil
causes, perteining to the regiment of the common-wealth and countrie.
They had the charge also of all sacrifices, publike and priuate, they
interpreted oracles, preached of religion, and were neuer without great
numbers of yoong men that heard them with diligence, as they taught from
time to time.
Immunitie of the cleargie greater vnder idolatrie
than vnder the gospell.
Touching their persons also they were exempt from all temporall
seruices, impositions, tributes, and exercises of the wars: which
immunitie caused the greater companies of scholers to flocke vnto them
from all places, & to learne their trades. Of these likewise, some
remained with them seuen, eight, ten, or twelue years, still learning
the secrets of those unwritten mysteries by heart, which were to be had
amongst them, and commonlie pronounced in verse. And this policie, as I
take it, they vsed onelie to preserue their religion from contempt,
whereinto it might easilie haue fallen, if any books thereof had
happened into the hands of the common sort. It helped also not a little
in the exercise of their memories, wherevnto bookes are vtter enimies,
insomuch as he that was skilfull in the Druiysh religion, would not let
readilie to rehearse manie hundreds of verses togither, and not to faile
in one tittle, in the whole processe of this his laborious repetition.
But as they dealt in this order for matters of their religion, so in
ciuill affairs, historicall treatises, and setting downe of lawes, they
vsed like order and letters almost with the Grecians. Whereby it is
easie to be séene, that they reteined this kind of writing from Druiyus
(the originall founder of their religion) and that this Iland hath not
béene void of letters and learned men, euen sith it was first inhabited.
I would ad some thing in particular also of their apparell, but sith the
dealing withall is nothing profitable to the reader, I passe it ouer,
signifieng neuerthelesse, that it was distinguished by sundrie deuises
from that of the common sort, and of such estimation among the people,
that whosoeuer ware the Druiysh weed, might walke where he would without
any harme or annoiance. This honour was giuen also vnto the préests in
Rome, insomuch that when Volusius was exiled by the Triumuirate, and saw
himselfe in such danger, as that he could not escape the hardest, he gat
the wéed of a preest upon his backe, and begged his almes therein, euen
in the high waies as he trauelled, and so escaped the danger and the
furie of his aduersaries: but to proceed with other things.
Bardus.
After the death of Druiyus, Bardus his sonne, and fift king of the
Celts, succéeded not onelie ouer the said kingdome, but also in his
fathers vertues, whereby it is verie likelie, that the winding and
wrapping vp of the said religion, after the afore remembred sort into
verse, was first deuised by him, for he was an excellent poet, and no
lesse indued with a singular skill in the practise and speculation of
musicke, of which two many suppose him to be the verie author and
Gen. 4. 21.
beginner, although vniustlie, sith both poetrie and song were in vse
before the flood, as was also the harpe and pipe, which Iubal inuented,
and could neuer be performed without great skill in musicke. But to
procéed, as the cheefe estimation of the Druiydes remained in the end
among the Britons onelie, for their knowledge in religion, so did the
fame of the Bardes (which were so called of this Bardus for their
excellent skill in musicke, poetrie, and the heroicall kind of song,
which at the first conteined onelie the high mysteries and secret points
of their religion. There was little difference also betwéene them and
The Bards degenerate.
the Druiydes, till they so farre degenerated from their first
institution, that they became to be minstrels at feasts, droonken
meetings, and abhominable sacrifices of the idols: where they sang most
commonlie no diuinitie as before, but the puissant acts of valiant
princes, and fabulous narrations of the adulteries of the gods. Certes
in my time this fond vsage, and thereto the verie name of the Bardes,
are not yet extinguished among the Britons of Wales,
[Page 37]
where they call their poets and musicians Barthes, as they doo also in
Ireland: which Sulpitius also writing to Lucane remembreth, where he
saith that the word Bardus is meere Celtike, and signifieth a singer.
Howbeit the Romans iudging all nations beside themselues to be but rude
and barbarous, and thereto misliking vtterlie the rough musicke of the
Bardes, entred so farre into the contemptuous mockage of their melodie,
that they ascribed the word Bardus vnto their fooles and idiots, whereas
contrariwise the Scythians and such as dwell within the northweast part
of Europe, did vse the same word in verie honourable maner, calling
their best poets and heroicall singers, Singebardos; their couragious
singers and capiteins that delited in musicke, Albardos, Dagobardos,
Rodtbardos, & one lame musician Lambard aboue all other, of whose
skilfull ditties Germanie is not vnfurnished, as I heare vnto this daie.
In Quizqueia or new Spaine, an Iland of the Indies, they call such men
Boitios, their rimes Arcitos, and in steed of harps they sing vnto
timbrels made of shels such sonnets and ditties as either perteine vnto
religion, prophane loue, commendation of ancestrie, and inflammation of
the mind vnto Mars, whereby there appeareth to be small difference
betwéene their Boitios and our Bardes. Finallie of our sort, Lucane in
his first booke writeth thus, among other like saiengs well toward the
latter end;
Lucani. li. 1.
Vos quóq; qui fortes animas, bellóq; peremptas
Laudibus in longum vates dimittitis æuum,
Plurima securi fudistis carmina Bardi.
Et vos barbaricos ritus, morémque sinistrum
Sacrorum Druiydæ, positis recepistis ab armis.
Solis nosse Deos, & cœli numina vobis,
Aut solis nescire datum: nemora alta remotis
Incolitis lucis. Vobis authoribus, vmbræ
Non tacitas Erebi sedes, Ditisque profundi
Pallida regna petunt, regit idem spiritus artus
Orbe alio. Longæ canitis si cognita, vitæ
Mors media est, certe populi, quos despicit arctos,
Fœlices errore suo, quos ille timorum
Maximus haud vrget leti metus: inde ruendi
In ferrum mens prona viris, animæque capaces
Mortis: & ignauum est redituræ parcere vitæ.
Thus we sée as in a glasse the state of religion, for a time, after the
first inhabitation of this Iland: but how long it continued in such
soundnesse, as the originall authors left it, in good sooth I cannot
say, yet this is most certeine, that after a time, when Albion arriued
here, the religion earst imbraced fell into great decaie. For whereas
Iaphet & Samothes with their children taught nothing else than such
doctrine as they had learned of Noah: Cham the great grandfather of this
our Albion, and his disciples vtterlie renouncing to follow their steps,
gaue their minds wholie to seduce and lead their hearers headlong vnto
all error. Whereby his posteritie not onelie corrupted this our Iland,
with most filthie trades and practises; but also all mankind, generallie
where they became, with vicious life, and most vngodlie conuersation.
What doctrine
Cham and his disciples taught.
For from Cham and his successours procéeded at the first all sorcerie,
witchcraft, and the execution of vnlawful lust, without respect of sex,
age, consanguinitie, or kind: as branches from an odious and abhominable
root, or streames deriued from a most filthie and horrible stinking
puddle. Howbeit, & notwithstanding all these his manifold lewdnesses,
such was the follie of his Ægyptians (where he first reigned and taught)
that whilest he liued they alone had him in great estimation (whereas
other nations contemned and abhorred him for his wickednesse, calling
Chemesenua.
him Chemesenua, that is, the impudent, infamous and wicked Cham) and not
Chem Min.
Cham made a god.
onelie builded a citie vnto him which they called Chem Min, but also
after his death reputed him for a god, calling the highest of the seuen
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planets after his name, as they did the next beneath it after Osyris his
sonne, whom they likewise honored vnder the name of Iupiter.
Translation of mortall men into heauen how it began.
Certes it was a custome begonne in Ægypt of old time, and generallie in
vse almost in euerie place in processe of time (when any of their famous
worthie princes died) to ascribe some forme or other of the stars vnto
his person, to the end his name might neuer weare out of memorie. And
this they called their translation in heauen, so that he which had any
starres or forme of starres dedicated vnto him, was properlie said to
haue a seat among the gods. A toie much like to the catalog of Romish
saints, (although the one was written in the celestiall or immateriall
orbes, the other in sheeps skins, and verie brickle paper) but yet so
estéemed, that euerie prince would oft hazard and attempt the vttermost
aduentures, thereby to win such fame in his life, that after his death
he might by merit haue such place in heauen, among the shining starres.
Howbeit, euerie of those that were called gods, could not obteine that
benefit, for then should there not haue béene stars enow in heauen to
haue serued all their turnes, wherfore another place was in time
imagined, where they reigned that were of a second calling, as the
Cyril, aduersus Iul. lib. 6. sect. 8.
Semones who were gods by grace and fauour of the people. "Semones dici
voluerunt (saith Fulgentius In vocibus antiquis) quos cœlo nec dignos
ascriberent, ob meriti paupertatem; sicut Priapus Hyppo. Vortumnus, &c.
nec terrenos eos deputare vellent per gratiæ venerationem," as also a
third place that is to say an earth, where those gods dwelled which were
noble men, officers, good gouernours and lawgiuers to the people, and
yet not thought worthie to be of the second or first companie, which was
a iollie diuision.
Thus we sée in generall maner, how idolatrie, honoring of the starres,
and brood of inferiour gods were hatched at the first, which follies in
processe of time came also into Britaine, as did the names of Saturne &
Iupiter, &c: as shall appeare hereafter. And here sith I haue alreadie
somewhat digressed from my matter, I will go yet a little farder, and
shew foorth the originall vse of the word Saturne, Iupiter, Hercules,
&c: whereby your Honor shall sée a little more into the errours of the
Gentils, and not onelie that, but one point also Which were
properlie called Saturni, Ioues, Iunones, and Hercules. of the root of
all the confusion that is to be found among the ancient histories.
Certes it was vsed for a few yéeres after the partition of the earth
(which was made by Noah, in the 133. yeere after the floud) that the
beginners of such kingdoms as were then erected should be called
Saturni, whereby it came to passe that Nimbrote was the Saturne of
Babylon: Cham of Ægypt: and so foorth other of sundrie other countries.
Their eldest sonnes also that succeeded them, were called Ioues; and
their nephewes or sonnes sonnes, which reigned in the third place
Hercules, by which meanes it followed that euerie kingdome had a
Saturne, Iupiter and Hercules of hir owne, and not from anie other.
In like sort they had such another order among their daughters, whom
they married as yet commonlie vnto their brethren (God himselfe
permitting the same vnto them for a time) as before the floud, to the
end the earth might be thoroughlie replenished, and the sooner furnished
with inhabitants in euerie part therof. The sister therefore and wife of
Isis, Io and Iuno all one.
euerie Saturne was called Rhea, but of Iupiter, Iuno, Isis, or Io.
Beyond these also there was no latter Harold that would indeuour to
deriue the petigree of any prince, or potentate, but supposed his dutie
to be sufficientlie performed, when he had brought it orderlie vnto some
Saturne or other, wherat he might cease, and shut vp all his trauell.
They had likewise this opinion grounded amongst them, that heauen &
earth were onlie parents vnto Saturne and Rhea, not knowing out of doubt,
Cœlum or Cœlus.
Ogyges.
Sol.
Pater deorum.
what they themselues did meane, sith these denominations, Heauen,
Ogyges, the Sunne, Pater Deorum, and such like, were onelie ascribed
vnto Noah: as *Terra, (the Earth) Vesta, Aretia, the Moone, Mater
* Tydea.
Vesta.
Terra.
Luna.
Aretia.
Deorum mater.
deorum, and other the like were vnto Tydea his wife. So that hereby we
sée, how Saturne is reputed in euerie nation for their oldest god, or
first prince, Iupiter for the next, and Hercules for the third. And
therefore sith these names were dispersed in the beginning ouer all, it
is no maruell that there is such confusion in ancient histories, and the
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dooings of one of them so mixed with those of another, that it is now
impossible to distinguish them in sunder. This haue I spoken, to the end
that all men may see what gods the Pagans honored, & thereby what
religion the posteritie of Cham did bring ouer into Britaine. For vntill
their comming, it is not likelie that anie grosse idolatrie or
superstition did enter in among vs, as deifieng of mortall men, honoring
of the starres, and erection of huge images, beside sorcerie,
witchcraft, and such like, whereof the Chemminites are worthilie called
the autors. Neither were these errors anie thing amended, by the comming
Frō whence Brute did learne his religion.
in of Brute, who no doubt added such deuises vnto the same, as he and
his companie had learned before in Græcia, from whence also he brought
Helenus the sonne of Priamus, (a man of excéeding age) & made him his
préest and bishop thorough out the new conquest, that he had atchieued
in Britaine.
After Brute, idolatrie and superstition still increased more and more
among vs, insomuch that beside the Druiysh and Bardike ceremonies, and
those also that came in with Albion and Brute himselfe: our countriemen
either brought hither from abroad, or dailie inuented at home new
religion and rites, whereby it came to passe that in the stead of the
onelie and immortall God (of whom Samothes and his posteritie did preach
Dis or Samothes made a god.
in times past) now they honored the said Samothes himselfe vnder the name
of Dis and Saturne: also Iupiter, Mars, Minerua, Mercurie, Apollo,
Diana; and finallie Hercules, vnto whome they dedicated the gates and
porches of their temples, entrances into their regions, cities, townes
and houses, with their limits and bounds (as the papists did the gates
of their cities and ports vnto Botulph & Giles) bicause fortitude and
wisedome are the cheefe vpholders and bearers vp of common-wealths and
kingdoms, both which they ascribed to Hercules (forgetting God) and
diuers other idols whose names I now remember not. In lieu moreouer of
sheepe and oxen,
Mela. Diodorus, Strab. 4. Plin. Cæsar. 5.
they offred mankind also vnto some of them, killing their offendors,
prisoners, and oft such strangers as came from farre vnto them, by
shutting vp great numbers of them togither in huge images made of
wicker, réed, haie, or other light matter: and then setting all on fire
togither, they not onelie consumed the miserable creatures to ashes
(sometimes adding other beasts vnto them) but also reputed it to be the
most acceptable sacrifice that could be made vnto their idols. From
whence they had this horrible custome, trulie I cannot tell, but that it
was common to most nations, not onlie to consume their strangers,
captiues, &c; but also their owne children with fire, in such maner of
sacrifice: beside the text of the Bible, the prophane histories doo
generallie leaue it euident, as a thing either of custome or of
particular necessitie, of which later Virgil saith;
Sanguine placastis ventos & virgine cæsa, &c.
As Silius dooth of the first, where he telleth of the vsuall maner of
the Carthaginenses, saieng after this maner;
Vrna reducebat miserandos annua casus, &c.
But to procéed with our owne gods and idols, more pertinent to my
purpose than the rehersall of forreine demeanours: I find that huge
temples in like sort were builded vnto them, so that in the time of
Lucius, when the light of saluation began stronglie to shine in
Ptol. Lucensis.
Britaine,thorough the preaching of the gospell, the christians
discouered 25. Flamines or idol-churches beside three Archflamines,
whose préests were then as our Archbishops are now, in that they had
superior charge of all the rest, the other being reputed as inferiours,
and subiect to their iurisdiction in cases of religion, and
superstitious ceremonies.
Monstrous proportions of idols.
Of the quantities of their idols I speake not, sith it is inough to
saie, that they were monstrous, and that each nation contended which
should honour the greater blocks, and yet all pretending to haue the
iust heigth of the god or goddesse whom they did represent. Apollo
Capitolinus that stood at Rome, was thirtie cubits high at the least;
Tarentinus Iupiter of 40.; the idoll of the sonne in the Rhodes, of 70
(whose toe few men could fadam;) Tuscanus Apollo that stood in the
librarie of the temple of Augustus, of 50. foot; another made vnder Nero
of 110. foot; but one in France passed all, which Zenoduris made vnto
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Mercurie at Aruernum in ten years space, of 400. foot. Wherby it
appeareth, that as they were void of moderation in number of gods, so
without measure were they also in their proportions, and happie was he
which might haue the greatest idoll, and lay most cost thereon.
Hitherto yee haue heard of the time, wherein idolatrie reigned and
blinded the harts of such as dwelled in this Iland. Now let vs sée the
successe of the gospell, after the death and passion of Iesus Christ our
sauiour. And euen here would I begin with an allegation of
Theodoret.
Theodoret, wherevpon some repose great assurance (conceiuing yet more
Sophronius.
hope therein by the words of Sophronius) that Paule the Apostle should
preach the word of saluation here, after his deliuerie out of
captiuitie, which fell as I doo read in the 57. of Christ. But sith I
cannot verifie the same by the words of Theodoret, to be spoken more of
Paule than Peter, or the rest, I will passe ouer this coniecture (so far
as it is grounded vpon Theodoret) and deale with other authorities,
whereof we haue more certeintie. First of all therfore let vs see what
Fortunatus hath written of Pauls comming into Britaine, and afterward
what is to be found of other by-writers in other points of more
assurance. Certes for the presence of Paule I read thus much:
Quid sacer ille simul Paulus tuba gentibus ampla,
Per mare per terras Christi præconia fundens,
Europam & Asiam, Lybiam, sale dogmata complens,
Arctos, meridies, hic plenus vesper & ortus,
Transit & Oceanum, vel qua facit insula portum,
Quásq; Britannus habet terras atque vltima Thule, &c.
Iosephus.
That one Iosephus preached here in England, in the time of the Apostles,
his sepulchre yet in Aualon, now called Glessenburg or Glastenburie, an
epitaph affixed therevnto is proofe sufficient. Howbeit, sith these
things are not of competent force to persuade all men, I will ad in few,
what I haue read elsewhere of his arriuall here. First of all therefore
you shall note that he came ouer into Britaine, about the 64. after
Christ, when the persecution began vnder Nero, at which time Philip and
diuers of the godlie being in France (whether he came with other
christians, after they had sowed the word of God in Scythia, by the
space of 9. yeares) seuered themselues in sunder, to make the better
shift for their owne safegard, and yet not otherwise than by their
flight, the gospell might haue due furtherance. Hereby then it came to
Philip. Freculphus. To. 2., lib. 2. cap. 4.
Nennius. Nicephorus lib. 2. cap. 40.
Isidorus lib. de vita & obit. dict. patrum.
W. Malmes. de antiq. Glasconici monast.
passe, that the said Philip vpon good deliberation did send Iosephus
ouer, and with him Simon Zelotes to preach vnto the Britons, and
minister the sacraments there according to the rites of the churches of
Asia and Greece, from whence they came not long before vnto the countrie
of the Galles. Which was saith Malmesburie 103. before Faganus and Dinaw
did set foorth the gospell amongst them. Of the cōming of Zelotes you
may read more in the second booke of Niceph. Cal. where he writeth
thereof in this maner: "Operæpretium etiam fuerit Simonem Cana Galileæ
ortum, qui propter flagrantem in magistrum suum ardorem, summámq;
euangelicæ rei per omnia curam Zelotes cognominatus est hîc referre,
accepit enim is cœlitùs adueniente spiritu sancto, Aegyptium Cyrenem
& Africam, deinde Mauritaniam & Lybiam omnem euangelium deprædicans
percurrit, eandemque doctrinam etiam ad occidentalem Oceanum insulásque
Britannicas perfert." And this is the effect in a little roome, of that
which I haue read at large in sundrie writers, beside these two here
alledged, although it may well be gathered that diuers Britains were
conuerted to the faith, before this sixtie foure of Christ. Howbeit,
whereas some write that they liued, and dwelled in Britaine, it cannot
as yet take any absolute hold in my iudgement, but rather that they were
baptised and remained, either in Rome, or else-where. And of this sort I
suppose
Claudia Rufina a British ladie.
Claudia Rufina the wife of Pudens to be one, who was a British ladie
indeed, and not onelie excellentlie séene in the Gréeke and Latine
toongs, but also with hir husband highlie commended by S. Paule, as one
1. Tim. 4.
hauing had conuersation and conference with them at Rome, from whence he
did write his second epistle vnto Timothie, as I read. Of this ladie
moreouer Martial speaketh, in reioising that his poesies were read also
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in Britaine, and onelie by hir meanes, who vsed to cull out the finest &
honestest of his epigrams and send them to hir fréends for tokens,
saieng after this maner, as himselfe dooth set it downe:
Dicitur & nostros cantare Britannia versus.
Furthermore making mention of hir and hir issue, he addeth these words:
Li. 11. Epig. 54.
Claudia cœruleis cùm sit Rufina Britannis
Edita, cur Latiæ pectora plebis habet?
Quale decus formæ? Romanam credere matres
Italides possunt, Atthides esse suam.
Dij bene, quod sancto peperit fæcunda marito,
Quot sperat, generos, quótque puella nurus.
Sic placeat superis, vt coniuge gaudeat vno,
Et semper natis gaudeat illa tribus.
The names of hir thrée children were Prudentiana, Praxedes, both
virgins, and Nouatus, who after the death of Pudens their father (which
befell him in Cappadocia) dwelled with their mother in Vmbria, where
they ceased not from time to time to minister vnto the saints. But to
leaue this impertinent discourse, and proceed with my purpose.
I find in the Chronicles of Burton (vnder the yeare of Grace 141. and
time of Hadrian the emperour) that nine scholers or clerkes of Grantha
or Granta (now Cambridge) were baptised in Britaine, and became
preachers of the gospell there, but whether Taurinus bishop or elder
ouer the congregation at Yorke (who as Vincentius saith, was executed
Lib. 10. cap. 17.
Taurinus.
about this time for his faith) were one of them or not, as yet I do not
certeinlie find; but rather the contrarie, which is that he was no
Britaine at all, but Episcopus Ebroicensis, for which such as perceiue
not the easie corruption of the word, may soone write Eboracensis as
certeinlie mine author out of whom I alledge this authoritie hath done
before me. For Vincentius saith flat otherwise, and therefore the
Chronologie if it speake of anie Taurinus bishop of Yorke is to be
reformed in that behalfe. Diuers other also imbraced the religion of
Christ verie zealouslie before these men. Howbeit, all this
notwithstanding, the glad tidings of the gospell had neuer free and open
passage here, vntill the time of Lucius, in which the verie enimies of
the word became the apparent meanes (contrarie to their owne minds) to
haue it set foorth amongst vs. For when Antoninus the emperour had giuen
out a decrée, that the Druiysh religion should euerie where be
abolished, Lucius the king (whose surname is now perished) tooke aduise
of his councell what was best to be doone, & wrote in this behalfe. And
this did Lucius, bicause he knew it *impossible for man to liue long
* This is contrarie to the common talke of our
Atheists who say, Let vs liue here in wealth, credit and
authoritie vpon earth, and let God take heauen and his
religion to himselfe to doo withall what he listeth.
without any religion at all: finallie finding his Nobilitie & subiects
vtter enemies to the Romane deuotiō (for that they made so many gods
as they listed, & some to haue the regiment euen of their dirt & dung)
and thervnto being pricked forwards by such christians as were
conuersant about him, to choose the seruice of the true God that liueth
for euer, rather than the slauish seruitude of any pagan idoll: he
fullie resolued with himselfe in the end, to receiue and imbrace the
gospell of Christ. He sent also two of his best learned and greatest
Lucius openeth his ears to good counsell,
as one desirous to serue God & not prefer the world.
philosophers to Rome, vnto Eleutherus then bishop there in the 177. of
Christ, not to promise any subiection to his sea, which then was not
required, but to say with such as were pricked in mind, Acts. 2. verse.
37. "Quid faciemus viri fratres?" I meane that they were sent to be
perfectlie instructed, and with farther commission, to make earnest
request vnto him and the congregation there, that a competent number of
preachers might be sent ouer from thence, by whose diligent aduise and
trauell, the foundation of the gospell might surelie be laid ouer all
the portion of the Ile, which conteined his kingdome, according to his
mind.
The purpose of Lucius opened vnto the
congregation at Rome by Eleutherus.
When Eleutherus vnderstood these things, he reioiced not a little for
the great goodnesse, which the Lord had shewed vpon this our Ile and
countrie. Afterwards calling the brethren togither, they agréed to
ordeine, euen those two for bishops, whom Lucius as you haue heard, had
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directed ouer vnto them. Finallie after they had thoroughlie catechized
them, making generall praier vnto God and earnest supplication for the
good successe of these men, they sent them home againe with no small
charge, that they should be diligent in their function, and carefull
ouer the flocke committed to their custodie.
The first of these was called Eluanus Aualonius, a man borne in the Ile
of Aualon, and brought up there vnder those godlie pastours and their
disciples, whom Philip sent ouer at the first for the conuersion of the
Britons. The other hight Medguinus, and was thereto surnamed Belga,
bicause he was of the towne of Welles, which then was called Belga. This
man was trained vp also in one schoole with Eluanus, both of them being
ornaments to their horie ages, and men of such grauitie and godlinesse,
that Eleutherus supposed none more worthie to support this charge, than
they: after whose comming home also, it was not long yer Lucius and all
A zealous prince maketh feruent subiects.
his houshold with diuers of the Nobilitie were baptised, beside infinit
numbers of the common people, which dailie resorted vnto them, and
voluntarilie renounced all their idolatrie and paganisme.
In the meane time, Eleutherus vnderstanding the successe of these
learned doctours, and supposing with himselfe, that they two onlie could
not suffice to support so great a charge as should concerne the
conuersion of the whole Iland; he directed ouer vnto them in the yeare
Faganus.
Dinauus.
Aaron.
insuing Faganus, Dinaw (or Dinauus) Aaron, and diuerse other godlie
preachers, as fellow-labourers to trauell with them in the vineyard of
Radulphus de la noir aliàs Niger.
the Lord. These men therefore after their comming hither, consulted with
the other, and foorthwith wholie consented to make a diuision of this
3. Cheefe Bishops in Britaine.
Iland amongst themselues, appointing what parcell each preacher should
take, that with the more profit and ease of the people, and somewhat
lesse trauell also for themselues, the doctrine of the Gospell might be
preached and receiued. In this distribution, they ordeined that there
Theonus.
Theodosius.
London.
Yorke.
Caerlheon.
should be one congregation at London, where they placed Theonus as
chéefe elder and bishop, for that present time, worthilie called
Theonus. 1. for there was another of that name who fled into Wales with
Thadiocus of Yorke, at the first comming of the Saxons; and also
Guthelmus, who went (as I read) into Armorica, there to craue aid
against the Scots and Vandals that plagued this Ile, from the Twede vnto
the Humber. After this Theonus also Eluanus succéeded, who conuerted
manie of the Druiydes, and builded the first librarie neere vnto the
bishops palace. The said Lucius also placed another at Yorke, whither
they appointed Theodosius: and the third at Caerlheon vpon the riuer
Vske, builded sometimes by Belinus, and called Glamorgantia, but now
Chester (in which three cities there had before time beene thrée
Archflamines erected vnto Apollo, Mars, and Minerua, but now raced to
the ground, and three other churches builded in their steeds by Lucius)
to the end that the countries round about might haue indifferent accesse
vnto those places, and therewithall vnderstand for certeintie, whither
to resort for resolution, if after their conuersion they should happen
to doubt of any thing. In like sort also the rest of the idoll-temples
standing in other places were either ouerthrowne, or conuerted into
churches for christian congregations to assemble in, as our writers doo
remember. In the report whereof giue me leaue gentle reader, of London
my natiue citie to speake a little: for although it may and dooth seeme
impertinent to my purpose, yet it shall not be much, and therefore I
will soone make an end. There is a controuersie moued among our
historiographers, whether the church that Lucius builded at London stood
at Westminster, or in Cornehill. For there is some cause, why the
metropolitane church should be thought to stand where S. Peters now
doth, by the space of 400. & od yéeres before it was remoued to
Canturburie by Austine the monke, if a man should leane to one side
without anie conference of the asseuerations of the other. But herin (as
I take it) there lurketh some scruple, for beside that S. Peters church
stood in the east end of the citie, and that of Apollo in the west, the
word Cornehill (a denomination giuen of late to speake of to one street)
may easilie be mistaken for Thorney. For as the word Thorney proceedeth
from the Saxons, who called the west end of the citie by that name,
where Westminster now standeth, bicause of the wildnesse and bushinesse
of the soile; so I doo not read of anie stréete in London
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called Cornehill before the conquest of the Normans. Wherfore I hold
with them, which make Westminster to be the place where Lucius builded
his church vpon the ruines of that Flamine 264. yeeres, as Malmesburie
saith, before the comming of the Saxons, and 411. before the arriuall of
Augustine. Read also his appendix in lib. 4. Pontif. where he noteth the
time of the Saxons, in the 449. of Grace, and of Augustine in the 596.
of Christ; which is a manifest accompt, though some copies haue 499. for
the one, but not without manifest corruption and error.
Britaine the first prouince that receiued
the Gospell generallie.
Thus became Britaine the first prouince that generallie receiued the
faith, and where the gospell was freelie preached without inhibition of
hir prince. Howbeit, although that Lucius and his princes and great
numbers of his people imbraced the word with gréedinesse, yet was not
the successe thereof either so vniuersall, that all men beleeued at the
first; the securitie so great, as that no persecution was to be feared
from the Romane empire after his decease; or the procéeding of the king
so seuere, as that he inforced any man by publike authoritie to forsake
and relinquish his paganisme: but onelie this fréedome was enioied, that
who so would become a christian in his time, might without feare of his
lawes professe the Gospell, in whose testimonie, if néed had béene, I
doubt not to affirme, but that he would haue shed also his bloud, as did
Emerita neece vnto Lucius.
his neece Emerita, who being constant aboue the common sort of women,
refused not after his decease by fire, to yeeld hir selfe to death, as a
swéet smelling sacrifice in the nostrels of the Lord, beyond the sea in
France.
Lucius sendeth againe to Rome.
The faith of Christ being thus planted in this Iland in the 177. after
Christ, and Faganus and Dinaw with the rest sent ouer from Rome, in the
178. as you haue heard: it came to passe in the third yeare of the
Gospell receiued, that Lucius did send againe to Eleutherus the bishop,
requiring that he might haue some breefe epitome of the order of
discipline then vsed in the church. For he well considered, that as it
auaileth litle to plant a costlie vineyard, except it afterward be
cherished, kept in good order, and such things as annoie, dailie
remooued from the same: so after baptisme and entrance into religion, it
profiteth little to beare the name of christians, except we doo walke in
Ro. 3. ver. 1.
the spirit, and haue such things as offend apparentlie, corrected by
seuere discipline. For otherwise it will come to passe, that the wéedes
of vice, and vicious liuing, will so quicklie abound in vs, that they
will in the end choke vp the good séed sowne in our minds, and either
inforce vs to returne vnto our former wickednesse with déeper securitie
than before, or else to become meere Atheists, which is a great deale
woorse.
For this cause therefore did Lucius send to Rome, the second time, for a
copie of such politike orders as were then vsed there, in their regiment
The wisedome of Eleutherus.
of the church. But Eleutherus considering with himselfe, how that all
nations are not of like condition, and therefore those constitutions
that are beneficiall to one, may now and then be preiudiciall to
another: and séeing also that beside the word no rites and orders can
long continue, or be so perfect in all points, but that as time serueth,
they will require alteration: he thought it best not to laie any more
vpon the necks of the new conuerts of Britaine as yet, than Christ and
his apostles had alreadie set downe vnto all men. In returning therefore
his messengers, he sent letters by them vnto Lucius and his Nobilitie,
dated in the consulships of Commodus and Vespronius, wherein he told
them that Christ had left sufficient order in the Scriptures for the
gouernment of his church alreadie in his word, and not for that onlie,
but also for the regiment of his whole *kingdome, if he would submit
himselfe, to yéeld and follow that rule. The epistle it selfe is partlie
* Though most princes canot heare on that side.
extant, and partlie perished, yet such as it is, and as I haue
faithfullie translated it out of sundrie verie ancient copies, I doo
deliuer it here, to the end I will not defraud the reader of anie thing
that may turne to the glorie of God, and his commoditie, in the historie
of our nation.
Epistle of Eleutherus vnto Lucius.
"You require of vs the Romane ordinances, and thereto the statutes of
the emperours to be sent ouer vnto you, and which you desire to practise
and put in vre within your realme and kingdome. The Romane lawes and
those of emperours we may eftsoones reprooue, but those of God can neuer
be found fault withall. You haue receiued of late through Gods mercie in
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the realme of Britaine the law and faith of Christ, you haue with you
both volumes of the scriptures: out of them therefore by Gods grace, and
the councell of your realme take you a law, and by that law through Gods
sufferance rule your kingdome, for you are Gods vicar in your owne
Psal. 24.
realme, as the roiall prophet saith; The earth is the Lords and all that
is therein, the compasse of the world, and they that dwell therein.
Psal. 45.
Againe, Thou hast loued truth and hated iniquitie, wherefore God, euen
thy God hath annointed thee with oile of gladnesse aboue thy fellowes.
Psal. 71.
And againe, according to the saieng of the same prophet; Oh God giue thy
iudgement vnto the king, & thy iustice vnto the kings sonne. The kings
sons are the christian people & flocke of the realme, which are vnder
your gouernance, and liue & continue in peace within your kingdome. *
* Here wanteth.
The gospell saith; As the hen gathereth hir chickens vnder hir wings, so
dooth the king his people. Such as dwell in the kingdome of Britaine are
yours, whom if they be diuided, you ought to gather into concord and
vnitie, to call them to the faith and law of Christ, and to his sacred
church: to chearish and mainteine, to rule also and gouerne them,
defending each of them from such as would doo them wrong, and keeping
them from the malice of such as be their enimies. *Wo vnto the nation
whose king is a child, and whose princes rise vp earlie to banket and
féed, which is spoken not of a prince that is within age, but of a
prince that is become a child, through follie, sinne & vnstedfastnesse,
of whom the prophet saith; The bloudthirstie and deceitfull men shall
not liue foorth halfe their daies. *By féeding I vnderstand gluttonie;
Psal. 55.
by gluttonie, lust; & by lust all wickednesse & sinne, according to the
saieng of Salomon the king; Wisedome entreth not into a wicked mind, nor
dwelleth with a man that is subiect vnto sinne. A king hath his name of
ruling, and not of the possession of his realme. You shalbe a king
whilest you rule well, but if you doo otherwise, the name of a king
shall not remaine with you, but you shall vtterlie forgo it, which God
forbid. The almightie God grant you so to rule the kingdome of Britaine,
that you may reigne with him for euer, whose vicar (or vicegerent) you
are within your aforesaid kingdome. Who with the Sonne and the
Holie-ghost, &c."
Hitherto out of the epistle that Eleutherus sent vnto Lucius, wherein
manie pretie obseruations are to be collected, if time and place would
serue to stand vpon them. After these daies also the number of such as
were ordeined to saluation, increased dailie more and more, whereby (as
in other places of the world) the word of God had good successe in
Britaine, in time of peace; and in heat of persecution, there were no
Albane.
Amphibalus.
Iulius.
Aaron.
small number of martyrs that suffered for the same, of which Albane,
Amphibalus, Iulius, and Aaron, are reputed to be the chiefe, bicause of
their noble parentage, which is a great matter in the sight of worldlie
men.
There are which affirme our Lucius to renounce his kingdome, and
afterward to become first a bishop, then a preacher of the gospell, and
afterward a pope: but to the end such as hold this opinion may once
vnderstand the botome of their errors, I will set downe the matter at
large, whereby they shall sée (if they list to looke) how far they haue
béene deceiued.
Chlorus had three sons, & a daughter by Helena.
I find that Chlorus had issue by his second wife, two sonnes, Dalmatius
(who had a sonne called also Dalmatius and slaine by the souldiors.)
Constantius father to Gallus, and Iulian the apostata; besides foure
other whose names as yet I find not. But being at the first matched with
Helena, and before she was put from him by the roiall power of
Dioclesian, he had by hir three sonnes (beside one daughter named
Emerita) of which the name of the first is perished, the second was
called Lucius, & the third Constantine, that afterward was emperour of
Rome, by election of the armies in Britaine. Now it happened that
Lucius, whome the French call Lucion, by means of a quarell growne
betwéene him and his elder brother, did kill his said brother, either by
a fraie or by some other meanes, wherevpon his father exiled him out of
Britaine, and appointed him from thenceforth to remaine in Aquitane in
France. This Lucion brought thus into worldlie sorow, had now good
leasure to meditate vpon heauen, who before in his prosperitie had
[Page 45]
peraduenture neuer regard of hell. Finallie he fell so far into the
consideration of his estate, that at the last he renounced his paganisme,
Lucion becommeth a christian.
Lucion a bishop.
and first became a christian, then an elder, and last of all a bishop in
the church of Christ. He erected also a place of praier wherein to serue
the liuing God, which after sundrie alterations came in processe of time
to be an Abbaie, and is still called euen to our time after Lucion or
Lucius: the first founder therof, and the originall beginner of anie
such house in those parts.
In this also he and diuers other of his freends continued their times,
in great contemplation and praier, and from hence were translated as
occasion serued, vnto sundrie ecclesiasticall promotions in the time of
Constant. his brother. So that euen by this short narration it is now
easie to sée, that Lucius the king, and Lucius or Lucion the sonne of
Hermannus Schedelius. Bruschius cap. 3.
Chlorus, were distinct persons. Herevnto Hermannus Schedelius addeth
also how he went into Rhetia with Emerita his sister, and néere vnto the
citie Augusta conuerted the Curienses vnto the faith of Christ, and
there likewise (being put to death in Castro Martis) lieth buried in the
same towne, where his feast is holden vpon the third daie of December,
as may readilie be confirmed, whereas the bones of our Lucius were to be
séene at Glocester. That Schedelius erreth not herein also, the ancient
monuments of the said Abbaie, whereof he was the originall beginner, as
I said, doo yeeld sufficient testimonie, beside an hymne made in his
commendation, intituled Gaude Lucionum, &c. But for more of this you may
Festum Lucionis. Iohn Bouchet.
resort vnto Bouchet in his first booke, and fift chapter of the Annales
of Aquitane, who neuertheles maketh the king of Britaine grandfather to
this Lucion. The said Schedelius furthermore setteth downe, that his
Emerita martyred in Rhetia.
sister was martyred in Trinecastell, néere vnto the place where the said
Lucion dwelled, whereby it appéereth in like sort, that she was not
sister to Lucius king of Britaine, of which prince Alexander Neccham in
his most excellent treatise De sapientia diuina, setteth downe this
Distichon:
Prima Britannorum fidei lux Lucius esse
Fertur, qui rexit mœnia Brute tua.
Neither could Lucion or Lucius be fellow and of kinred vnto Paule the
apostle, as Auentine inferreth, except he meane it of some other Lucius,
as of one whome he nameth Cyrinensis. But then will not the historie
agree with the conuersion of the Rhetians and Vindelicians, whereof
Schedelius and other doo make mention. But as each riuer the farder it
runneth from the head, the more it is increased by small riuelets, and
corrupted with filthie puddels, and stinking gutters, that descend into
Heresie and monastical life brought into
Britaine at one time by Pelagius.
the same: so the puritie of the gospell, preached here in Britaine, in
processe of time became first of all to be corrupted with a new order of
religion, and most execrable heresie, both of them being brought in at
once by Pelagius, of Wales, who hauing trauelled through France, Italie,
Aegypt, Syria, & the easterlie regions of the world, was there at the
last made an elder or bishop, by some of the monkes, vnto whose
profession he had not long before wholie addicted himselfe. Finallie
returning home againe with an augmentation of fame and countenance of
greater holinesse than he bare out of the land with him, he did not
onelie erect an house of his owne order at Bangor in Wales, vpon the
Bangor.
riuer Dee, but also sowed the pestiferous séed of his hereticall
prauities ouer all this Iland, whereby he seduced great numbers of
Britons, teaching them to preferre their owne merits, before the free
mercie of God, in Jesus Christ his sonne. By this means therefore he
brought assurance of saluation into question, and taught all such as had
a diligent respect vnto their workes to be doubtfull of the same,
whereas to such as regard this latter, there can be no quietnesse of
mind, but alwaies an vnstedfast opinion of themselues, whereby they
cannot discerne, neither by prosperitie nor aduersitie of this life,
whether they be worthie loue or hatred. Neuertheles it behooueth the
godlie to repose their hope in that grace which is freelie granted
through Jesu Christ, and to flee vnto the mercies of God which are
offered vnto vs in with and by his son, to the end that we may at the
last find the testimonie of his spirit working with ours, that we are
his chosen children, whereby commeth peace of conscience to such as doo
beléeue.
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Thus we sée how new deuises or orders of religion and heresie came in
together. I could shew also what Comets, and strange signes appeared in
Britaine, much about the same time, the like of which with diuers other
haue beene perceiued also from time to time, sithence the death of
Pelagius, at the entrance of anie new kind of religion into this Ile of
Britaine. But I passe them ouer, onelie for that I would not seeme in my
tractation of antiquities, to trouble my reader with the rehersall of
anie new inconueniences.
Anachorites.
Heremites.
Cyrillines.
Benedictines.
To procéed therefore with my purpose, after these, there followed in
like sort sundrie other kinds of monasticall life, as Anachorites,
Heremits, Cyrilline and Benedictine monkes, albeit that the heremeticall
profession was onelie allowed of in Britaine, vntill the comming of
Augustine the monke, who brought in the Benedictine sect, framed after
the order of the house which Benedict surnamed Nursinus did first erect
in Monte Cassino, about the 524. of Christ, & was finallie so well liked
of all men, that we had few or (as I suppose) no blacke monkes in
England that were not of his order. In processe of time how Benedict
Biscop also our countrieman restored the said Benedictine profession
greatlie decaied in England, our histories are verie plentifull, which
Biscop went off into Italie, and at one time for a speciall confirmation
of his two monasteries which he had builded at other mens costs vnto
Monkes and Heremites onelie allowed of in Britaine.
Paule and Peter vpon the bankes of the Were, as Beda dooth remember. So
fast also did these and other like humane deuises prosper after his
time, that at their suppression in England and Wales onelie, there were
found 440. religious houses at the least, of which 373. might dispend
200. li. by the yéere at the least, as appeareth by the record of their
suppression, which also noteth the totall summe of their reuenues to
amount vnto 32000. pounds, their moueables 100000. li. and the number of
The number of religious houses in England at their dissolution.
religious men conteined in the same, to be 10000. which would make a
pretie armie, wherevnto if you adde those 45. of late standing in
Scotland, you shall soone see what numbers of these dens of spirituall
robbers were mainteined here in Britaine. What number of saincts also
haue béene hatched in them I could easilie remember, and beside those
160. which Capgraue setteth downe, & other likewise remembred in the
golden Legend, and Legendarie of Excester, I might bring a rable out of
Scotland able to furnish vp a calendar, though the yere were twise as
long.
As touching Pelagius the first heretike that euer was bred in this
realme (notablie knowne) and parent of Monachisme, it is certeine, that
before his corruption and fall, he was taken for a man of singular
learning, deepe iudgement, and such a one, as vpon whome for his great
gifts in teaching and strictnesse of life, no small péece of the hope
and expectation of the people did depend. But what is wisedome of the
flesh, without the feare and true knowledge of God? and what is learning
except it be handmaid to veritie and sound iudgement? Wherefore euen of
Roger Bakon his saieng of the preachers of his
time who were the best lawyers and the worst Diuines.
this man, we may see it verified, that one Roger Bakon pronounced long
after of the corruption of his time, when all things were measured by
wit and worldlie policie, rather than by the scriptures or guidance of
the spirit; Better it is saith he, to heare a rude and simple idiot
preach the truth, without apparance of skill and learned eloquence, than
a profound clearke to set foorth error, with great shew of learning, and
boast of filed vtterance. Gerson in like sort hath said fullie asmuch.
These follies of Pelagius were blased abroad about the 400. of Christ,
and from thencefoorth how his number of monkes increased on the one
side, and his doctrine on the other, there is almost no reader that is
vnskilfull and ignorant.
This also is certeine, that within the space of 200. yeares and odde,
More than 2100 monkes in the College or Abbaie of
Bangor in whose territories the parish of Ouerton standeth.
there were manie more than 2100. monkes gathered togither in his house,
whose trades notwithstanding the errors or their founder, (who taught
such an estimation of merits and bodilie exercise (as Paule calleth it)
that therby he sought not onlie to impugne, but also preuent grace,
which was in deed the originall occasion of the erection of his house)
were yet farre better and more godlie than all those religious orders,
that were inuented of later time, wherein the professours liued to
themselues, their wombs and the licentious fruition of those parts, that
are beneath the bellie. For these laboured continuallie for their owne
liuings, at vacant times from praier (as did Serapions monkes, which
Niceph. lib. II. cap. 34.
were 10000. ouer whome he himselfe was Abbat) and likewise for the
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better maintenance of such learned men as were their appointed
preachers. Their liues also were correspondent to their doctrine, so
that herein onelie they seemed intollerable, in that they had confidence
in their déeds, and no warrant out of the word for their succor &
defense, but were such a plant as the heauenlie father had not planted,
and therefore no maruell, though afterward they were raised by the
roots.
But as Pelagius and his adherents had a time to infect the church of
Christ in Britaine, so the liuing God hath had a season also to purge
and cleanse the same, though not by a full reformation of doctrine,
Germanus, Lupus, Palladius, Patricius.
sith Germanus, Lupus, Palladius, Patricius, and such like leaning for
the most part vnto the monasticall trades, did not so much condemne the
generall errors of Pelagius one waie, as mainteine the same, or as euill
opinions another. For as Patricke séemed to like well of the honoring of
the dead, so Germanus being in Britaine repaired an old chapell to
Seuerus Sulpitius in vita Patricij.
S. Albane, wherein Lupus also praied, as Palladius vpheld the
strictnesse of life, in monasticall profession to the vttermost of his
power. Wherefore God wrought this purgation of his house at the first,
rather by taking awaie the wicked and pompous schoolemaisters of errour
out of this life: hoping that by such meanes, his people would haue
giuen eare to the godlie that remained. But in processe of time, when
this his mercifull dealing was forgotten and our countriemen returned to
their former disorders, he brought in the Saxons, who left no idoll
vnhonored, no not their filthie Priapus, vnto whom the women builded
temples, and made a beastlie image (Cum pene intenso, and as if he had
beene circumcised) whome they called Ithypallus, Verpus, and as Goropius
Atvatic. pag. 26. addeth, Ters: calling vpon him in maner at euerie
word, yea at the verie fall of a knife out of their hands, and not
counted anie shame vnto the most ancient and sober matrone of them all.
Howbeit when this procéeding of the Lord could also take no place, and
the shéepe of his pasture would receiue no wholesome fodder, it pleased
his maiestie, to let them run on headlong from one iniquitie to another,
in somuch that after the doctrine of Pelagius, it receiued that of Rome
Augustine the monke.]
also, brought in by Augustine and his monkes, whereby it was to be
seene, how they fell from the truth into heresie, and from one heresie
still into another, till at the last they were drowned altogither in the
pits of error digged vp by Antichrist, wels in deed that hold no water,
which notwithstanding to their followers séemed to be most sound
doctrine, and cisterns of liuing water to such as imbraced the same.
This Augustine, after his arriuall,
Augustine.
conuerted the Saxons in déed from
paganisme, but as the prouerbe saith, bringing them out of Gods blessing
into the warme sunne, he also imbued them with no lesse hurtfull
superstition, than they did know before: for beside the onelie name of
Christ, and externall contempt of their pristinate idolatrie, he taught
them nothing at all, but rather (I saie) made an exchange from grosse to
subtill treacherie, from open to secret idolatrie, & from the name of
pagans, to the bare title of christians, thinking this sufficient for
their soules health, and the stablishment of his monachisme, of which
kind of profession, the holie scriptures of God can in no wise like or
allow. But what cared he? sith he got the great fish for which he did
cast his hooke, and so great was the fish that he caught in déed, that
within the space of 1000. yeares, and lesse, it deuoured the fourth part
& more of the best soile of the Iland, which was wholie bestowed vpon
his monkes, & other religious broodes that were hatched since his time,
as may hereafter appéere in the booke following, where I intreate of
cities, townes, &c. In the meane season what successe his monkes had
Monks of Canturburie plagued.
at Canturburie, how oft they were spoiled by enimies, their houses
burned by casualtie, and brethren consumed with pestilence, I refer me
to Gotcellius, Houeden, Geruase, and the rest of their owne
historiographers. And so sore did the pestilence rage among them in the
time of Celnothus (in whose daies the preests, clerks and monkes sang
their seruice togither in the quire, that (of I wote not how manie)
there remained onelie fiue aliue, which was a notable token of the furie
and wrath of God conceiued and executed against that malignant
generation. It came also to passe at the last that men vsed to praie for
helpe at the said Augustines tumbe (although afterward Thomas Becket a
newer saint did not a little deface his glorie) among which king
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Athelstane was one,whome Elnothus the abbat staied so long in the place,
when he came thither to praie, that his soldiours waiting for his
comming, and supposing the monkes to haue murdered him, began to giue an
assault and set fire vpon the house.
Whilest these things were thus in hand, in the south part of Albion, the
Meates.
Pictes.
Caledoniens.
Meates, Picts, and Caledoniens, which lie beyond the Scotish sea,
receiued also the faith, by preaching of such christian elders as
aduentured thither dailie, who trauelled not without great successe and
increase of perfect godlines in that part of the Ile. Certes this
prosperous attempt passed all mens expectation, for that these nations
were in those daies reputed wild, sauage, and more vnfaithfull and
craftie than well-minded people (as the wild Irish are in my time) and
such were they (to saie the truth) in déed, as neither the sugred
courtesie, nor sharpe swords of the Romans could mollifie or restraine
from their naturall furie, or bring to anie good order. For this cause
also in the end, the Romane emperours did vtterlie cast them off as an
vnprofitable, brutish, & vntameable nation, and by an huge wall herafter
to be described, separated that rude companie from the more mild and
ciuill portion.
Scotland conuerted to the faith of Christ.
This conuersion of the north parts fell out in the sixt yeare before the
warres that Seuerus had in those quarters, and 170. after the death of
our sauiour Jesus Christ. From thenceforth also the christian religion
continued still among them, by the diligent care of their pastors and
bishops (after the vse of the churches of the south part of this Iland)
till the Romane shéepheard sought them out, and found the meanes to pull
them vnto him in like sort with his long staffe as he had done our
countriemen, whereby in the end he abolished the rites of the churches
of Asia there also, as Augustine had done alreadie in England: and in
stéed of the same did furnish it vp with those of his pontificall see,
although there was great contention, and no lesse bloodshed made amongst
them, before it could be brought to passe, as by the histories of both
nations yet extant may be séene.
Paladius.
In the time of Cœlestine bishop of Rome, who sate in the 423. of
Christ, one Paladius a Grecian borne (to whome Cyrill wrote his dialog
De adoratione in spiritu) and sometime disciple to Iohn 24. bishop of
The first attempt of the bishop of Rome
to bring Scotland vnder his obedience.
Ierusalem, came ouer from Rome into Britaine, there to suppresse the
Pelagian heresie, which not a little molested the orthodoxes of that
Iland. And hauing doone much good in the extinguishing of the aforesaid
opinion there, he went at the last also into Scotland, supposing no
lesse, but after he had trauelled somwhat in confutation of the
Pelagians in those parts, he should easilie persuade that crooked nation
to admit and receiue the rites of the church of Rome, as he would faine
haue doone beforehand in the south.
Fastidius bishop of London.
But as Fastidius Priscus archbishop of London, and his
Suffragans resisted him here; so did the Scotish prelates withstand him
there also in this behalfe: howbeit, bicause of the authoritie of his
commission, grauitie of personage, and the great gift which he had in
the veine of pleasant persuasion (whereby he drew the people after him,
as Orpheus did the stones with his harpe, and Hercules such as heard him
by his toong) they had him not onelie then in great admiration, but
their successors also from time to time, and euen now are contented
Paladius accompted for the apostle of the Scots.
(and the rather also for that he came from Rome) to take him for their
chéefe apostle, reckoning from his comming as from the faith receiued,
which was in the 431. yeare of Christ, as the truth of their historie
dooth verie well confirme.
Thus we see what religion hath from time to time beene receiued in this
Iland, & how and when the faith of Christ came first into our countrie.
Howbeit as in processe of time it was ouershadowed, and corrupted with
the dreames and fantasticall imaginations of man, so it dailie waxed
woorse & woorse, till that it pleased God to restore the preaching of
his gospell in our daies, whereby the man of sinne is now openlie
reuealed, and the puritie of the word once againe brought to light, to
the finall ouerthrow of the Romish sathan, and his popish adherents that
honour him daie and night to the vttermost of their power, yeelding vp
their harts as temples for him to dwell in, which rather ought to be the
temples of God and habitations of the Holy-ghost. But such is their
peruerse ignorance (notwithstanding that Paule hath giuen warning of him
alreadie 2. Thes. 2. calling him (as I said) the man of sinne, and
saieng that he sitteth as God in the temple of God, shewing himselfe in
[Page 49]
his chalenge of power,as if he were God, vnder pretense of zeale vnto
true religion) that they will not giue eare vnto the truth, but rather
shut their eares and their eies from hearing and reading of the
scriptures, bicause they will not be drawne out of his snares and
bondage.
There is a certeine period of kingdomes, of 430. yeares, in which
commonlie they suffer some notable alteration. And as in the aforesaid
season there is set a time of increase and decaie, so we find that
before the execution of Gods purpose dooth come to passe, in changing
the estate of things, sundrie tokens are sent, whereby warning is giuen,
that without repentance he will come and visit our offenses. This is
partlie verified by Ioachimus Camerarius, who in his first booke De
ostentis intreating of the same argument, telleth of a strange
earthquake felt in Delus, which was neuer touched with any such plague
before or after the ouerthrow of the Persians, giuen vnto them by the
Grecians; also of the beard that suddenlie grew out of the face of the
Pedacien prophetesse, so often as the citie was to be touched with any
alteration and change. "Nam (saith he) descriptas esse diuinitùs ætates
quibus idem humanarum rerum status duraret, quibus finitis, prædici
prius quàm existeret nouationem in deterius euenturam rerum, quæque
indies minùs ac minùs numini cordi essent. Emittuntur igitur cometæ
diuinitus, & reuocantur dum supra nos conspecti quamdiu placuit Deo
inferuntur, &c." Plato referreth such changes as happen in
common-wealths to a certeine diuine force that resteth hidden in sundrie
od numbers, whereof their periods do consist. True it is that God
created all things in number, weight & measure, & that after an
incomprehensible maner vnto our fraile & humane capacitie.
Neuerthelesse, he appointed not these three to haue the rule of his
works, wherefore we must not ascribe these changes to the force of
number with Plato, much lesse then vnto destinie with the Peripatetiks,
but vnto the diuine prouidence and appointment of God, which onelie may
be called destinie as S. Augustine saith, for of other destinie it is
impietie to dreame. Aristotle ascribing all euents vnto manifest causes
precedent, dooth scoffe at Plato and his numbers in his booke of
common-wealths, and bringeth in sundrie causes of the alteration of the
state of things, which we may referre vnto principals, as iniurie,
oppression, ambition, treason, rebellion, contempt of religion and
lawes, and therevnto abundance of wealth in few, and great necessitie
and miserie in manie. But whatsoeuer Aristotle gesseth at these things
by humane reason as at the first causes, yet we acknowledge other beyond
them, as sinne, which being suffered and come to the full, is cut downe
by the iustice of the high God, the cheefe cause of all, who foreseeing
the wickednesse of such as dwell on earth, dooth constitute such a
reuolution of things in their beginnings, as best standeth with the
execution of his purpose, and correction of our errors. The causes
therefore that Aristotle dooth deliuer, are nothing else but the meanes
which God vseth to bring his purposes to passe; and yet they deserue the
name of causes, in that they preceed those effects which follow them
immediatlie. But in truth other than secondarie or third causes no man
can iustlie call them. Bodinus in his historicall method, cap. 6. making
a large discourse of the conuersions of commonwealths, dooth séeme at
the first to denie the force of number, but after a while he maruelleth
that no Grecian or Latine Academike, hath hitherto made any discourse of
the excellencie of such numbers as apperteine to the estate of empires
and kingdomes by exemplification in any one citie or other. Hereby he
sheweth himselfe vpon the sudden to alter his iudgement, so that he
Fatal numbers.
setteth downe certeine numbers as fatall; to wit, sixe vnto women, and
seauen and nine vnto men, which (saith he) haue "Magnam in tota rerum
natura potestatem," meaning as well in common-wealths and kingdomes from
their first erections, as in particular ages of bodies, for sickenesse,
health, change of habitation, wealth, and losse, &c: and for the
confirmation of the same, he setteth downe sundrie examples of apparent
likelihood, either by multiplication of one by the other, or diuision of
[Page 50]
greater numbers by either of them, or their concurrence one with
another, calling the aforesaid three his criticall or iudiciall numbers,
whereby he bringeth or rather restoreth an old kind of arithmancie
(fathered on Pythagoras, yet neuer inuented by him) againe into the
world. But we christians, in respecting of causes, haue to looke vnto
the originall and great cause of all, and therefore we haue not to leane
vnto these points in any wise as causes: for we know and confesse that
all things depend vpon his prouidence, who humbleth and exalteth whom it
pleaseth him. Neuerthelesse, I hope we may without offense examine how
these assertions hold, so long as we vse them rather as Indices than
Causas mutationum. And therefore haue I attempted to practise at this
present the example of Bodinus, first in the alterations of our ciuill
estate passed; and secondlie, of the like in cases of religion; from the
flood generallie, and then after the first comming in of Samothes into
our Ile, thereby somewhat to satisfie my selfe, and recreate the
readers; but still protesting in the meane season that I vtterlie denie
them to be any causes, or of themselues to worke any effect at all in
these things, as Bodinus would seeme to vphold. As for those of other
countries, I referre you to Aristotles politikes, and the eight of the
common-wealth which Plato hath left vnto vs, therby to be farther
resolued, if you be desirous to looke on them. In beginning therefore
with my purpose; First bicause the flood of Noah was generall, and
therefore appertinent vnto all, it shall not be amisse to begin with
that, which was in the yeare 1656. after the creation of Adam, so that
if you diuide the same by nine, you shall find the quotient to fall out
exactlie with the 184. reuolution of the same number. Secondlie, for so
much as the confusion of toongs was the originall cause of the
dispersion of the people ouer the face of the whole earth, it shall not
be amisse also to examine the same. Certes it fell out in the 133. after
the flood: if we diuide therefore the said 133. by seauen, you shall
find the quotient 19. without any ods remaining. From hence also vnto
the comming of Samothes into Britaine, or rather his lawes giuen vnto
the Celts, and with them vnto the Britons, in the second of his arriuall
in this land, we find by exact supputation 126. yeares, which being
parted by nine or seauen sheweth such a conclusion as maketh much for
this purpose. Doubtlesse I am the more willing to touch the time of his
lawes than his entrance, sith alteration of ordinances is the cheefe and
principall token of change in rule and regiment; although at this
present the circumstances hold not, sith he dispossessed none, neither
incroched vpon any. From Samothes vnto the tyrannie of Albion, are 335.
yeares complet, so that he arriued here in the 335. or 48. septenarie,
which also concurreth with the 590 after the flood. In like sort the
regiment of Albion continued but seauen yeares, and then was the
souereingtie of this Ile restored againe by Hercules vnto the Celts. The
next alteration of our estate openlie knowne, happened by Brute,
betweene whose time and death of Albion there passed full 601. yeares
(for he spent much time after his departure out of Grecia, before he
came into Albion) so that if you accompt him to come hither in the 602.
you shall haue 86. septenaries exactlie. From Brute to the extinction of
his posteritie in Ferrex and Porrex, and pentarchie of Britaine, are
630. yeares, or 70. nouenaries, than the which where shall a man find a
more precise period after this method or prescription, for manie and
diuers considerations. The time of the pentarchie indured likewise 49.
yeares, or seauen septenaries, which being expired Dunwallo brought all
the princes vnder his subiection, and ruled ouer them as monarch of this
Ile. After the pentarchie ended, we find againe, that in the 98. yeare,
Brennus rebelled against Beline his brother, wherevpon insued cruell
bloodshed betwéene them. So that here you haue 14. septenaries, as you
haue from those warres ended, which indured a full yeare & more before
Brennus was reconciled to his brother, to the comming of Cæsar into this
Iland (whereat our seruitude and miserable thraldome to the Romans may
worthilie take his entrance) 48. or 336. yeares, than the which
concurrences I know not how a man should imagine a more exact.
After the comming of Cæsar we haue 54. or sixe nouenaries to Christ,
whose death and passion redoundeth generallie to all that by firme and
sure faith take hold of the same, and applie it vnto their comfort. From
the birth of Christ to our countrie deliuered from the Romane yoke, are
[Page 51]
446. yeares, at which time the Britains chose them a king, and betooke
themselues to his obedience. But neither they nor their king being then
able to hold out the Scots and Picts, which dailie made hauocke of their
countrie; the said Vortiger in the third yeare of his reigne (which was
the 63. septenarie after Christ) did send for the Saxons, who arriued
here in the 449. and 450. yeares of Grace, in great companies, for our
aid and succour, although that in the end their entrances turned to our
vtter decaie and ruine, in that they made a conquest of the whole Ile,
and draue vs out of our liuings. Hereby we sée therefore how the
preparatiue began in the 449. but how it was finished in the tenth
nouenarie, the sequele is too too plaine. In like sort in the 43.
nouenarie or 387. after the comming of the Saxons, the Danes entred, who
miserablie afflicted this Ile by the space of 182. yeares or 46.
septenaries, which being expired, they established themselues in the
kingdome by Canutus. But their time lasting not long, the Normans
followed in the end of the 49. yeare, and thus you sée how these numbers
do hold exactlie vnto the conquest. The like also we find of the
continuance of the Normans or succession of the Conquerour, which
indured but 89. yeares, being extinguished in Stephen, and that of the
Saxons restored in Henrie the second, although it lacke one whole yeare
of ten nouenaries, which is a small thing, sith vpon diuers occasions
the time of the execution of any accident may be preuented or proroged,
as in direction and progression astronomicall is oftentimes perceiued.
From hence to the infamous excommunication of England in king Iohns
daies, wherevpon insued the resignation of his crownes and dominions to
the pope, are eight septenaries or 56. yeares. Thence againe to the
deposition of Richard. 2. and vsurpation of Henrie 4. are 77. yeares or
11. septenaries. From hence to the conspiracie made against Edward. 2.
after which he was deposed & murdered are 117. yeares, or 13.
nouenaries. From hence to the beginning of the quarell betwéene the
houses of Yorke and Lancaster (wherein foure score and od persons of the
blood roiall were slaine and made awaie first and last, and which warres
begunne in the 1448. and the yeare after the death of the Duke of
Glocester, whose murther séemed to make frée passage to the said broile)
are 72. yeares or eight nouenaries. From hence to the translation of the
crowne from the house of Lancaster to that of Yorke, in Edward the 4.
are 14. yeares or two septenaries, and last of all to the vnion of the
said houses in Henrie the eight, is an exact quadrat of seuen multiplied
in it selfe, or 49. yeares, whereof I hope this may in part suffice.
Now as concerning religion, we haue from Christ to the faith first
preached in Britaine (by Iosephus ab Aramathia, and Simon Zelotes) as
some write 70. yeares or 10. septenaries. Thence also to the baptisme of
Lucius, and his nobilitie in the yeare after their conuersion, 12.
nouenaries or 108. yeares. After these the Saxons entred and changed the
state of religion for the most part into paganisme, in the yeare 449.
39. nouenarie, and 273. yeare after Lucius had beene baptised, which is
39. septenaries, if I be not deceiued. In the 147. or 21. septenarie,
Augustine came, who brought in poperie, which increased and continued
till Wicklif with more boldnesse than anie other began to preach the
gospell, which was Anno. 1361. or 765. yeares after the comming of
Augustine, and yeeld 85. nouenaries exactlie. From hence againe to the
Henrie 8.
expulsion of the pope 175. yeares, or 25. septenaries, thence to the
Marie.
receiuing of the pope and popish doctrine 21. yeares or 3. septenaries,
wherevnto I would ad the time of restoring the gospell by Quéene
Elizabeth, were it not that it wanteth one full yeare of 7. Whereby we
may well gather, that if there be anie hidden mysterie or thing
conteined in these numbers, yet the same extendeth not vnto the diuine
disposition of things, touching the gift of grace and frée mercie vnto
the penitent, vnto which neither number weight nor measure shall be able
to aspire.
[Page 52]
There are néere vnto, or not verie farre from the coasts of Britaine
many faire Ilands, wherof Ireland with hir neighbors (not here handled)
séeme to be the cheefe. But of the rest, some are much larger or lesse
than other, diuers in like sort enuironed continuallie with the salt sea
(whereof I purpose onelie to intreat, although not a few of them be
Ilands but at the floud) and other finallie be clipped partlie by the
fresh and partlie by the salt water, or by the fresh alone, whereof I
may speake afterward.
Of these salt Ilands (for so I call them that are enuironed with the
Ocean waues) some are fruitfull in wood, corne, wild foule, and pasture
ground for cattell, albeit that manie of them be accounted barren,
bicause they are onelie replenished with conies, and those of sundrie
colours (cherished of purpose by the owners, for their skins or carcases
in their prouision of household) without either man or woman otherwise
inhabiting in them. Furthermore, the greatest number of these Ilands
haue townes and parish-churches, within their seuerall precincts, some
mo, some lesse: and beside all this, are so inriched with commodities,
that they haue pleasant hauens, fresh springs, great store of fish, and
plentie of cattell, wherby the inhabitants doo reape no small aduantage.
How manie they are in number I cannot as yet determine, bicause mine
informations are not so fullie set downe, as the promises of some on the
one side, & mine expectation on the other did extend vnto. Howbeit,
first of all that there are certeine which lie neere togither, as it
were by heapes and clusters, I hope none will readilie denie.
Nesiadæ.
Insulæ Scylurum.
Sileustræ.
Syllanæ.
Sorlingæ.
Sylley.
Of these also those called the Nesiadæ, Insulæ Scylurum, Sileustræ,
Syllanæ, now the Sorlings, and Iles of Silley, lieng beyond Cornwall are
one, and conteineth in number one hundreth fourtie and seauen (each of
them bearing grasse) besides shelfes and shallowes. In like sort the
Hebrides.
Hebudes.
Meuaniæ.
Orchades.
companie of the Hebrides in old time subject vnto Ireland are another,
which are said to be 43. situat vpon the west side of this Iland,
betweene Ireland & Scotland, and of which there are some that repute
Anglesei, Mona Cæsaris, and other lieng betweene them to be parcell, in
their corrupted iudgement. The third cluster or bunch consisteth of
those that are called the Orchades, and these lie vpon the northwest
point of Scotland, being 31. aliàs 28. in number, as for the rest they
lie scattered here and there, and yet not to be vntouched as their
courses shall come about. There are also the 18. Shetland Iles, and
other yet farther distant from them, of which Iohn Frobuser I doubt not
touched vpon some in his voiage to Meta Incognita: but for somuch as I
must speake of the Shetlands hereafter, I doo not meane to spend anie
time about them as yet.
There haue beene diuers that haue written of purpose, De insulis
Britanniæ, as Cæsar doth confesse. The like also may be seene by
Plutarch, who nameth one Demetrius a Britaine, that should set foorth an
exact treatise of each of them in order, and among other tell of
certeine desert Iles beyond Scotland dedicated to sundrie gods and
goddesses, but of one especiallie, where Briareus should hold Saturne
and manie other spirits fast bound with the chaines of an heauie sléepe,
as he heard, of which some die now and then, by meane wherof the aire
becommeth maruellouslie troubled, &c: as you may sée in Plutarch De
cessatione oraculorum, &c. But sith those bookes are now perished, and
the most of the said Ilands remaine vtterlie vnknowen, euen to our owne
selues (for who is able in our time to say where is Glota, Hiucrion,
Etta, Iduna, Armia, Æsarea, Barsa, Isiandium, Icdelis, Xantisma,
Indelis, Siata, Ga. Andros or Edros, Siambis, Xanthos, Ricnea, Menapia,
&c? whose names onelie are left in memorie by ancient writers, but I
saie their places not so much as heard of in our daies) I meane (God
willing) to set downe so manie of them with their commodities, as I doo
either know by Leland, or am otherwise instructed of by such as are of
credit. Herein also I will touch at large those that are most famous,
and breeflie passe ouer such as are obscure and vnknowen, making mine
[Page 53]
entrance at the Thames mouth, and directing this imagined course (for I
neuer sailed it) by the south part of the Iland into the west. From
thence in like sort I will proceed into the north, & come about againe
by the east side into the fall of the aforesaid streame, where I will
strike saile, and safelie be set ashore, that haue often in this voiage
wanted water, but oftener béene set a ground, especiallie on the Scotish
side.
In beginning therefore, with such as lie in the mouth of the aforesaid
Hoo.
riuer, I must néeds passe by the How, which is not an Iland, and
therefore not within the compasse of my description at this time, but
almost an Iland, which parcels the Latins call Peninsulas, and I doo
english a Byland, vsing the word for such as a man may go into
drie-footed at the full sea, or on horssebacke at the low water without
anie boat or vessell: and such a one almost is Rochford hundred in Essex
also, yet not at this time to be spoken of, bicause not the sea onelie
but the fresh water also doth in maner enuiron it, and is the cheefe
occasion wherfore it is called an Iland. This How lieth between Cliffe
(in old time called Clouesho, to wit, Cliffe in How or in the hundred of
How) & the midwaie that goeth along by Rochester, of which hundred there
goeth an old prouerbe in rime after this maner:
He that rideth into the hundred of How,
Beside pilfering sea-men shall find durt ynow.
Greane.
Next vnto this we haue the Greane, wherein is a towne of the same
denomination, an Ile supposed to be foure miles in length, and two in
Shepey.
bredth. Then come we to Shepey, which Ptolomie calleth Connos,
conteining seauen miles in length, and three in bredth, wherein is a
castell called Quinborow, and a parke, beside foure townes, of which one
is named Minster, another Eastchurch, the third Warden, and the fourth
Leyden: the whole soile being throughlie fed with shéepe, verie well
woodded, and (as I heare) belongeth to the Lord Cheyney, as parcell of
his inheritance. It lieth thirtéene miles by water from Rochester, but
the castell is fiftéene, and by south thereof are two small Ilands,
Elmesie.
Hertesie.
wherof the one is called Elmesie, and the more easterlie Hertesie. In
this also is a towne called Hertie, or Hartie, and all in the Lath of
Scraie, notwithstanding that Hartie lieth in the hundred of Feuersham,
and Shepey reteineth one especiall Bailie of hir owne.
From hence we passe by the Reculuers (or territorie belonging in time
past to one Raculphus, who erected an house of religion, or some such
thing there) vnto a little Iland in the Stoure mouth. Herevpon also
Stureev.
Thanet.
the Thanet abutteth, which Ptolomie calleth Toliapis, other Athanatos,
bicause serpents are supposed not to liue in the same, howbeit sith it
is not enuironed with the sea, it is not to be dealt withall as an Iland
in this place, albeit I will not let to borow of my determination, and
describe it as I go, bicause it is so fruitfull. Beda noteth it in times
past to haue conteined 600. families, which are all one with Hidelands,
*Ploughlands, Carrucates, or Temewares. He addeth also that it is
* In Lincolneshire the word Hide or hideland,
was neuer in vse in old time as in other places, but for
Hide they vsed the word Carucate or cartware, or Teme,
and these were of no lesse compasse than an Hideland.
Ex Hugone le blanc Monacho Petrolurgensi.
diuided from our continent, by the riuer called Wantsume, which is about
thrée furlongs broad, and to be passed ouer in two places onelie. But
whereas Polydore saieth, the Thanet is nine miles in length & not much
lesse in bredth, it is now reckoned that it hath not much aboue seauen
miles from Nordtmuth to Sandwich, and foure in bredth, from the Stoure
to Margate, or from the south to the north, the circuit of the whole
being 17. or 18. as Leland also noteth. This Iland hath no wood growing
in it except it be forced, and yet otherwise it is verie fruitfull, and
beside that it wanteth few other commodities, the finest chalke is said
to be found there. Herein also did Augustine the moonke first arriue,
when he came to conuert the Saxons, and afterward in processe of time,
sundry religious houses were erected there, as in a soile much bettered
(as the supersticious supposed) by the steps of that holy man, & such as
came ouer with him. There are at this time 10. parish churches at the
least in the Ile of Thanet, as S. Nicholas, Birchington, S. Iohns, Wood
or Woodchurch, S. Peters, S. Laurence, Mownton or Monkeron, Minster, S.
Gyles and all Saincts, whereof M. Lambert hath written at large in his
description of Kent, and placed the same in the Lath of sainct Augustine
and hundred of Kingslow, as may easilie be séene to him that will peruse
it.
[Page 54]
Rutupium.
Sometime Rutupium or (as Beda calleth it) Reptacester, stood also in
this Iland, but now thorough alteration of the chanell of the Dour, it
is shut quite out, and annexed to the maine. It is called in these daies
Richborow, and as it should seeme builded vpon an indifferent soile or
high ground. The large brickes also yet to be seene there, in the
ruinous walles, declare either the Romane or the old British
workemanship. But as time decaieth all things, so Rutupium named
Ruptimuth is now become desolate, and out of the dust thereof Sandwich
producted, which standeth a full mile from the place where Reptacester
stood. The old writers affirme, how Arthur & Mordred fought one notable
battell here, wherin Gwallon or Gawan was slaine; at which time the said
rebell came against his souereigne with 70000. Picts, Scots, Irish,
Norwegians, &c: and with Ethelbert the first christian king of Kent did
hold his palace in this towne, and yet none of his coine hath hitherto
béene found there, as is dailie that of the Romanes, whereof manie
péeces of siluer and gold, so well as of brasse, copper, and other
mettall haue often beene shewed vnto me. It should appéere in like sort,
that of this place, all the whole coast of Kent therabout was called
Littus Rutupinum, which some doo not a little confirme by these words of
Lucane, to be read in his sixt booke soone after the beginning:
The last verse of one couple and first of an other.
Aut vaga cum Tethis, Rutupináq; littora feruent,
Vnda Calidonios fallit turbata Britannos.
Or when the wandering seas
and Kentish coasts doo worke,
And Calidons of British bloud,
the troubled waues beguile.
Meaning in like sort by the latter, the coast néere Andredeswald, which
in time past was called Littus Calidonium of that wood or forrest, as
Leland also confirmeth. But as it is not my mind to deale anie thing
curiouslie in these by-matters, so in returning againe to my purpose,
Seolesey of Seles there taken.
and taking my iourney toward the Wight, I must needs passe by Selesey,
which sometime (as it should séeme) hath béene a noble Iland, but now in
maner a Byland or Peninsula, wherin the chéefe sée of the bishop of
Chichester was holden by the space of thrée hundred twentie nine yeares,
and vnder twentie bishops.
Next vnto this, we come vnto those that lie betweene the Wight and the
Thorne.
maine land, of which the most easterlie is called Thorne, and to saie
truth, the verie least of all that are to be found in that knot. Being
Haling.
past the Thorne, we touched vpon the Haling, which is bigger than the
Thorne, and wherein one towne is situat of the same denomination beside
Port.
another, whose name I remember not. By west also of the Haling lieth the
Port (the greatest of the three alreadie mentioned) and in this standeth
Portsmouth and Ringstéed) whereof also our Leland, saieth thus: "Port
Ile is cut from the shore by an arme of the maine hauen, which breaketh
out about thrée miles aboue Portsmouth, and goeth vp two miles or more
by morish ground to a place called Portbridge, which is two miles from
Portsmouth." Then breaketh there out another créeke from the maine sea,
about Auant hauen, which gulleth vp almost to Portbridge, and thence is
the ground disseuered, so that Portsmouth standeth in a corner of this
Ile, which Iland is in length six miles, and three miles in bredth,
verie good for grasse and corne, not without some wood, and here and
there inclosure. Beside this, there is also another Iland north
northwest of Port Ile, which is now so worne and washed awaie with the
working of the sea, that at the spring tides it is wholie couered with
water, and thereby made vnprofitable. Finallie being past all these, and
in compassing this gulfe, we come by an other, which lieth north of
Hirst castell, & southeast of Kaie hauen, whereof I find nothing worthie
to be noted, sauing that it wanteth wood, as Ptolomie affirmeth in his
Geographicall tables of all those Ilands which enuiron our Albion.
Wight.
Guidh.
The Wight is called in Latine Vectis, but in the British speach Guidh,
that is to saie, Eefe or easie to be séene, or (as D. Caius saith)
separate, bicause that by a breach of the sea, it was once diuided
[Page 55]
from the maine, as Sicilia was also from Italie, Anglesei from Wales,
Foulenesse from Essex, & Quinborow from Kent. It lieth distant from the
south shore of Britaine (where it is fardest off) by fiue miles & a
halfe, but where it commeth neerest, not passing a thousand paces, and
this at the cut ouer betwéene Hirst castell and a place called Whetwell
chine, as the inhabitants doo report. It conteineth in length twentie
miles, and in bredth ten, it hath also the north pole eleuated by 50.
degrées and 27. minutes, and is onelie 18. degrees in distance, and 50.
od minuts from the west point, as experience hath confirmed, contrarie
to the description of Ptolomie, and such as folow his assertions in the
same. In forme, it representeth almost an eg, and so well is it
inhabited with meere English at this present, that there are thirtie six
townes, villages and castels to be found therein, beside 27.
parish-churches, of which 15. or 16. haue their Parsons, the rest either
such poore Vicars or Curats, as the liuings left are able to sustaine.
The names of the parishes in the Wight are these.
P signifieth
parsonages,
V. vicarages.
 |
1 |
Newport, a chap. |
|
15 |
Mottesson. |
p. |
|
| 2 |
Cairsbrosie. |
v. |
16 |
Yarmouth. |
p. |
| 3 |
Northwood. |
|
17 |
Thorley. |
v. |
| 4 |
Arriun. |
v. |
18 |
Shalflete. |
v. |
| 5 |
Goddeshill. |
v. |
19 |
Whippingham. |
p. |
| 6 |
Whitwell. |
|
20 |
Wootton. |
p. |
| 7 |
S. Laurence. |
p. |
21 |
Chale.
|
p. |
| 8 |
Nighton. |
p. |
22 |
Kingston.
|
p. |
| 9 |
Brading. |
v. |
23 |
Shorwell.
|
p. |
| 10 |
Newchurch. |
v. |
24 |
Gatrombe.
|
p. |
| 11 |
S. Helene. |
v. |
25 |
Brosie. |
|
| 12 |
Yauerland. |
p. |
26 |
Brixston. |
p. |
| 13 |
Calborne. |
p. |
27 |
Bensted.
|
p. |
| 14 |
Bonechurch. |
p. |
|
|
|
It belongeth for temporall iurisdiction to the countie of Hamshire, but
in spirituall cases it yéeldeth obedience to the sée of Winchester,
wherof it is a Deanerie. As for the soile of the whole Iland, it is
verie fruitfull, for notwithstanding the shore of it selfe be verie full
of rocks and craggie cliffes, yet there wanteth no plentie of cattell,
corne, pasture, medow ground, wild foule, fish, fresh riuers, and
pleasant woods, whereby the inhabitants may liue in ease and welfare. It
was first ruled by a seuerall king, and afterwards wonne from the
Britons by Vespasian the legat, at such time as he made a voiage into
the west countrie. In processe of time also it was gotten from the
Romans by the kings of Sussex, who held the souereigntie of the same,
and kept the king thereof vnder tribute, till it was wonne also from
them, in the time of Athelwold, the eight king of the said south region,
by Ceadwalla, who killed Aruald that reigned there, and reserued the
souereigntie of that Ile to himselfe and his successors for euermore. At
this time also there were 1200. families in that Iland, whereof the said
Ceadwalla gaue 300 to Wilfride sometime bishop of Yorke, exhorting him
to erect a church there, and preach the gospell also to the inhabitants
thereof, which he in like maner performed, but according to the
prescriptions of the church of Rome, wherevnto he yéelded himselfe
vassall and feudarie: so that this Ile by Wilfride was first conuerted
to the faith, though the last of all other that hearkened vnto the word.
After Ceadwalla, Woolfride the parricide was the first Saxon prince that
aduentured to flie into the Wight for his safegard, whither he was
driuen by Kenwalch of the Westsaxons, who made great warres vpon him,
and in the end compelled him to go into this place for succour, as did
also king Iohn, in the rebellious stir of his Barons, practised by the
clergie: the said Iland being as then in possession of the Forts, as
some doo write that haue handled it of purpose. The first Earle of this
Iland that I doo read of, was one Baldwijne de Betoun, who married for
his second wife, the daughter of William le Grosse Earle of Awmarle; but
[Page 56]
he dieng without issue by this ladie, she was maried the second time to
Earle Maundeuille, and thirdlie to William de Fortes, who finished
Skipton castell, which his wiues father had begun about the time of king
Richard the first. Hereby it came to passe also, that the Forts were
Earls of Awmarle, Wight, and Deuonshire a long time, till the ladie
Elizabeth Fortes, sole heire to all those possessions came to age, with
whom king Edward the third so preuailed through monie & faire words,
that he gat the possession of the Wight wholie into his hands, & held it
to himselfe & his successors, vntill Henrie the sixt, about the
twentieth of his reigne, crowned Henrie Beauchamp sonne to the lord
Richard Earle of Warwike king thereof and of Iardesey and Gardesey with
his owne hands, and therevnto gaue him a commendation of the Dutchie of
Warwike with the titles of Comes comitum Angliæ, lord Spenser of
Aburgauenie, and of the castell of Bristow (which castell was sometime
taken from his ancestors by king Iohn) albeit he did not long enioy
these great honors, sith he died 1446. without issue, and seuen yéeres
after his father.
After we be past the Wight, we go forward and come vnto Poole hauen,
Brunt Keysy.
wherein is an Ile, called Brunt Keysy, in which was sometime a
parish-church, and but a chapell at this present, as I heare. There are
also two other Iles, but as yet I know not their names.
We haue (after we are passed by these) another Ile, or rather Byland
Portland.
also vpon the coast named Portland not far from Waymouth or the Gowy, a
prettie fertile peece though without wood, of ten miles in circuit, now
well inhabited, but much better heretofore, and yet are there about
foure score housholds in it. There is but one street of houses therein,
the rest are dispersed, howbeit they belong all to one parish-church,
whereas in time past there were two within the compasse of the same.
There is also a castell of the kings, who is lord of the Ile, although
the bishop of Winchester be patrone of the church, the parsonage whereof
is the fairest house in all the péece. The people there are no lesse
excellent slingers of stones than were the Baleares, who would neuer
giue their children their dinners till they had gotten the same with
their slings, and therefore their parents vsed to hang their meate verie
high vpon some bough, to the end that he which strake it downe might
onlie haue it, whereas such as missed were sure to go without it, Florus
lib. 3. cap. 8. Which feat the Portlands vse for the defense of their
Iland, and yet otherwise are verie couetous. And wheras in time past
they liued onlie by fishing, now they fall to tillage. Their fire bote
is brought out of the Wight, and other places, yet doo they burne much
cow doong dried in the sunne, for there is I saie no wood in the Ile,
except a few elmes that be about the church. There would some grow
there, no doubt, if they were willing to plant it, although the soile
lie verie bleake and open. It is not long since this was vnited to the
maine, and likelie yer long to be cut off againe.
Being past this we raise another, also in the mouth of the Gowy,
betweene Colsford and Lime, of which for the smalnesse thereof I make no
great account. Wherefore giuing ouer to intreat any farther of it, I
Iardsey.
Gardesey.
cast about to Iardsey, and Gardesey, which Iles with their appurtenances
apperteined in times past to the Dukes of Normandie, but now they
remaine to our Quéene, as parcell of Hamshire and iurisdiction of
Winchester, & belonging to hir crowne, by meanes of a composition made
betwéene K. Iohn of England and the K. of France, when the dominions of
the said prince began so fast to decrease, as Thomas Sulmo saith.
Iardsey.
Of these two, Iardsey is the greatest, an Iland hauing thirtie miles in
compasse, as most men doo coniecture. There are likewise in the same
twelue parish-churches, with a colledge, which hath a Deane and
Prebends. It is distant from Gardsey full 21. miles, or thereabouts, and
made notable, by meanes of a bloudie fact doone there in Queene Maries
daies, whereby a woman called Perotine Massie wife vnto an honest
minister or préest, being great with childe by hir husband, was burned
to ashes: through the excéeding crueltie of the Deane and Chapiter, then
contending manifestlie against God for the mainteinance of their popish
and antichristian kingdome. In this hir execution, and at such time as
the fire caught holde of hir wombe, hir bellie brake, and there issued a
goodly manchilde from hir, with such force that it fell vpon the cold
[Page 57]
ground quite beyond the heate and furie of the flame, which quicklie was
Horrible murther.
taken vp and giuen from one tormentor and aduersarie to an other to
looke vpon, whose eies being after a while satisfied with the beholding
thereof, they threw it vnto the carcase of the mother which burned in
the fire, whereby the poore innocent was consumed to ashes, whom that
Gardsey.
furious element would gladlie haue left vntouched, & wherevnto it
ministred (as you heare) an hurtlesse passage. In this latter also,
there haue béene in times past, fine religious houses, and nine castels,
howbeit in these daies there is but one parish-church left standing in
the same. There are also certeine other small Ilands, which Henrie
S. Hilaries.
the second in his donation calleth Insulettas, beside verie manie rocks,
whereof one called S. Hilaries (wherein sometime was a monasterie) is
fast vpon Iardsey, another is named the Cornet, which hath a castel not
Cornet. Serke.
passing an arrow shot from Gardsey. The Serke also is betwéene both,
which is six miles about, and hath another annexed to it by an Isthmus
or Strictland, wherein was a religious house, & therwithall great store
of conies.
Brehoc.
Gytho.
Herme.
There is also the Brehoc, the Gytho, and the Herme, which latter is
foure miles in compasse, and therein was sometime a Canonrie, that
afterward was conuerted into a house of Franciscanes. There are two
other likewise neere vnto that of S. Hilarie, of whose names I haue no
Burhoo, aliàs the Ile of rats.
notice. There is also the rockie Ile of Burhoo, but now the Ile of rats,
so called of the huge plentie of rats that are found there, though
otherwise it be replenished with infinit store of conies, betwéene whome
Turkie conies.
and the rats, as I coniecture, the same which we call Turkie conies, are
oftentimes produced among those few houses that are to be seene in this
Iland. Some are of the opinion that there hath béene more store of
building in this Ile than is at this present to be seene, & that it
became abandoned through multitudes of rats, but hereof I find no
perfect warrantise that I may safelie trust vnto, yet in other places I
read of the like thing to haue happened, as in Gyara of the Cyclades,
where the rats increased so fast that they draue away the people. Varro
speaketh of a towne in Spaine that was ouerthrowne by conies. The
Abderits were driuen out of Thracia by the increase of mice & frogs; and
so manie conies were there on a time in the Iles Maiorca and Minorca
(now perteining to Spaine) that the people began to starue for want of
bread, and their cattell for lacke of grasse. And bicause the Ilanders
were not able to ouercome them, Augustus was constreined to send an
armie of men to destroie that needlesse brood. Plin. lib. 8. cap. 55.
Causes of the desolation of sundrie cities and townes.
A towne also in France sometime became desolate onelie by frogs and
todes. Another in Africa by locustes and also by grashoppers, as Amicla
was by snakes and adders. Theophrast telleth of an whole countrie
consumed by the palmer-worme, which is like vnto an huge caterpiller.
Plinie writeth of a prouince vpon the borders of Æthiopia made void of
people by ants and scorpions, and how the citizens of Megara in Grecia
were faine to leaue that citie through multitudes of bées, as waspes had
almost driuen the Ephesians out of Ephesus. But this of all other
(whereof Ælianus intreateth) is most woonderfull, that when the
Cretenses were chased out of a famous citie of their Iland by infinit
numbers of bees, the said bees conuerted their houses into hiues, and
made large combes in them which reached from wall to wall, wherein they
reserued their honie. Which things being dulie considered, I doo not
denie the possibilitie of the expulsion of the inhabitants out of the
Ile of Burhoo by rats, although I say that I doo not warrant the effect,
bicause I find it not set downe directlie in plaine words.
Alderney.
Beside this there is moreouer the Ile of Alderney a verie pretie plot,
about seuen miles in compasse, wherin a préest not long since did find a
coffin of stone, in which lay the bodie of an huge giant, whose fore
Comment. Brit.
téeth were so big as a mans fist, as Leland dooth report. Certes this to
me is no maruell at all, sith I haue read of greater, and mentioned them
alreadie in the beginning of this booke. Such a tooth also haue they in
Spaine wherevnto they go in pilgrimage as vnto S. Christophers tooth,
but it was one of his eie teeth, if Ludouicus Viues say true, who went
thither to offer vnto the same. S. August. de ciuit. lib. 15. cap. 9.
writeth in like sort, of such another found vpon the coast of Vtica, and
thereby gathereth that all men in time past were not onlie far greater
than they be now, but also the giants farre exceeding the huge stature
[Page 58]
Iliad. 6.
and height of the highest of them all. Homer complaineth that men in his
time were but dwarfes in comparison of such as liued in the wars of Troy.
Iliad. 5. & 7.
See his fift Iliad, where he speaketh of Diomedes, and how he threw a
stone at Æneas, (which 14. men of his time were not able to stirre) and
Vergilius Aen. 12.
therewith did hit him on the thigh and ouerthrew him. Virgil also noteth
no lesse in his owne deuise, but Iuvenal bréefelie comprehendeth all
this in his 15. Satyra, where he saith:
Saxa inclinatis per humum quæsita lacertis
Incipiunt torquere, domestica seditione
Tela, nec hunc lapidem, quali se Turnus, & Aiax,
Et quo Tytides percussit pondere coxam
Aeneæ: sed quem valeant emittere dextræ
Illis dissimiles, & nostro tempore nata.
Nam genus hoc viuo iam decrescebat Homero,
Terra malos homines nunc educat, atque pusillos,
Ergo Deus quicunque aspexit, ridet, & odit.
But to returne againe vnto the Ile of Alderney, from whence I haue
digressed. Herein also is a prettie towne with a parish-church, great
plentie of corne, cattell, conies, and wilde foule, whereby the
inhabitants doo reape much gaine and commoditie: onelie wood is their
want, which they otherwise supplie. The language also of such as dwell
in these Iles, is French; but the wearing of their haire long, & the
attire of those that liued in Gardsey and Iardsey, vntill the time of
king Henrie the eight, was all after the Irish guise. The Ile of Gardsey
also was sore spoiled by the French 1371. and left so desolate, that
onlie one castell remained therein vntouched.
Beyond this, and neerer unto the coast of England (for these doo lie
about the verie middest of the British sea) we haue one Iland called
Bruchsey.
the Bruch or the Bruchsey, lieng about two miles from Poole, whither men
saile from the Fromouth, and wherein is nought else, but an old chapell,
without any other housing.
Next to this also are certeine rocks, which some take for Iles, as
Illeston rocke néere vnto Peritorie, Horestan Ile a mile from Peritorie
by south, Blacke rocke Ile southeast from Peritorie toward Teygnemouth,
and also Chester, otherwise called Plegimundham: but how (to saie truth)
or where this latter lieth, I cannot make report as yet, neuerthelesse
sith Leland noteth them togither, I thinke it not my part to make
separation of them.
Mount Iland.
From hence the next Ile is called Mount Iland, otherwise Mowtland,
situate ouer against Lough, about two miles from the shore, and well
néere thrée miles in compasse. This Iland hath no inhabitants, but
onelie the warrenner and his dog, who looketh vnto the conies there:
notwithstanding that vpon the coast thereof in time of the yeere, great
store of pilchards is taken, and carried from thence into manie places
of our countrie. It hath also a fresh well comming out of the rocks,
which is worthie to be noted in so small a compasse of ground. Moreouer
in the mouth of the créeke that leadeth vnto Lough, or Loow, as some
S. Nicholas Iland.
call it, there is another little Iland of about eight acres of ground
called S. Nicholas Ile, and midwaie betweene Falmouth and Dudman (a
Greefe.
certeine Promontorie) is such another named the Gréefe, wherein is great
Inis Prynin.
store of gulles & sea foule. As for Inis Prynin, it lieth within the
Baie, about three miles from Lizards, and containeth not aboue two acres
of ground, from which Newltjn is not far distant, and wherein is a poore
fisher-towne and a faire wel-spring, wherof as yet no writer hath made
mention. After these (omitting Pendinant in the point of Falmouth hauen)
S. Michaels mount.
we came at last to saint Michaels mount, whereof I find this description
readie to my hand in Leland.
The compasse of the root of the mount of saint Michael is not much more
than halfe a mile, and of this the south part is pasturable and bréedeth
conies, the residue high and rockie soile. In the north side thereof
also is a garden, with certeine houses and shops for fishermen.
Furthermore, the waie to the mountaine lieth at the north side, and is
[Page 59]
frequented from halfe eb to halfe floud, the entrance beginning at the
foot of the hill, and so ascending by steps and greeces westward, first;
and then eastward to the vtter ward of the church. Within the same ward
also is a court stronglie walled, wherein on the south side is a chapell
of S. Michaell, and in the east side another of our ladie. Manie times a
man may come to the hill on foot. On the north northwest side hereof
also, is a Piere for botes and ships, and in the Baie betwixt the mount
and Pensardz are seene at the lowe water marke, diuers roots and stubs
of trées, beside hewen stone, sometimes of doores & windowes, which are
perceiued in the inner part of the Baie, and import that there hath not
onelie beene building, but also firme ground, whereas the salt water
doth now rule and beare the maisterie. Beyond this is an other little
S. Clements Ile.
Ile, called S. Clements Ile, of a chapell there dedicated to that saint.
It hath a little from it also the Ile called Mowshole, which is not
touched in any Chard. As for Mowshole it selfe, it is a towne of the
maine, called in Cornish Port Enis, that is, Portus insulæ, whereof the
said Ile taketh denomination, and in tin workes néere vnto the same
there hath beene found of late, speare heds, battell axes, and swords of
copper wrapped vp in linnen, and scarselie hurt with rust or other
hinderance. Certes the sea hath won verie much in this corner of our
Iland, but chéefelie betwéene Mowshole and Pensardz.
Hauing thus passed ouer verie neere all such Iles, as lie vpon the south
coast of Britaine, and now being come vnto the west part of our
countrie, a sudden Pirie catcheth hold of vs (as it did before, when we
went to Iardsey) and carrieth vs yet more westerlie among the flats of
Sylley Iles or Syl.
Sylley. Such force dooth the southeast wind often shewe vpon poore
trauellers in those parts, as the south and southwest dooth vpon
strangers against the British coast, that are not skilfull of our rodes
and harborowes. Howbeit such was our successe in this voiage, that we
feared no rocks, more than did king Athelstane, when he subdued them
(and soone after builded a colledge of preests at S. Burien, in
performance of his vow made when he enterprised this voiage for his safe
returne) nor anie tempest of weather in those parts that could annoie
our passage. Perusing therefore the perils whereinto we were pitifullie
plunged, we found the Syllane Ilands (places often robbed by the
Frenchmen and Spaniards) to lie distant from the point of Cornewall,
about three or foure hours sailing, or twentie English miles, as some
men doo account it. There are of these (as I said) to the number of one
hundreth fortie seauen in sight, whereof each one is greater or lesse
than other, and most of them sometime inhabited: howbeit, there are
twentie of them, which for their greatnesse and commodities excéed all
the rest. Thereto (if you respect their position) they are situat in
maner of a circle or ring, hauing an huge lake or portion of the sea in
the middest of them, which is not without perill to such as with small
aduisement enter into the same. Certes it passeth my cunning, either to
name or to describe all these one hundreth fourtie seauen, according to
their estate; neither haue I had anie information of them, more than I
haue gathered by Leland, or gotten out of a map of their description,
which I had sometime of Reginald Woolfe: wherfore omitting as it were
all the rags, and such as are not worthie to haue anie time spent about
their particular descriptions, I will onelie touch the greatest, and
those that lie togither (as I said) in maner of a roundle.
S. Maries Ile.
The first and greatest of these therefore, called S. Maries Ile, is
about fiue miles ouer, or nine miles in compasse. Therein also is a
parish-church, and a poore towne belonging thereto, of threescore
housholds, beside a castell, plentie of corne, conies, wild swans,
puffens, gulles, cranes, & other kinds of foule in great abundance. This
fertile Iland being thus viewed, we sailed southwards by the Norman
Agnus Ile.
rocke, and S. Maries sound vnto Agnus Ile, which is six miles ouer, and
hath in like sort one towne or parish within the same of fiue or six
housholds, beside no small store of hogs & conies of sundrie colours,
verie profitable to their owners. It is not long since this Ile was left
desolate, for when the inhabitants thereof returned from a feast holden
in S. Maries Ile, they were all drowned, and not one person left aliue.
Annot.
There are also two other small Ilands, betwéene this and the Annot,
whereof I find nothing worthie relation: for as both of them ioind
togither are not comparable to the said Annot for greatnesse and
[Page 60]
circuit, so they want both hogs and conies, wherof Annot hath great
Minwisand.
Smithy sound.
Suartigan.
Rousuian.
Rousuiar.
Cregwin.
plentie. There is moreouer the Minwisand, from whence we passe by the
Smithy sound (leauing thrée little Ilands on the left hand, vnto the
Suartigan Iland, then to Rousuian, Rousuiar, and the Cregwin, which
seauen are (for the most part) replenished with conies onelie, and wild
garlike, but void of wood & other commodities, sauing of a short kind of
grasse, or here & there some firzes wheron their conies doo féed.
Leauing therefore these desert peeces, we incline a little toward the
Moncarthat.
Inis Welseck.
Suethiall.
Rat Iland.
northwest, where we stumble or run vpon Moncarthat, Inis Welseck, &
Suethiall. We came in like sort vnto Rat Iland, wherein are so manie
monstrous rats, that if anie horsses, or other beasts, happen to come
thither, or be left there by negligence but one night, they are sure to
be deuoured & eaten vp, without all hope of recouerie. There is
Anwall. Brier.
moreouer the Anwall and the Brier, Ilands in like sort void of all good
furniture, conies onelie excepted, and the Brier (wherein is a village,
castell, and parish-church) bringeth foorth no lesse store of hogs, and
wild foule, than Rat Iland doth of rats, whereof I greatlie maruell.
Rusco.
Inis widdō.
By north of the Brier, lieth the Rusco, which hath a Labell or Byland
stretching out toward the southwest, called Inis widdon. This Rusco is
verie neere so great as that of S. Maries. It hath moreouer an hold, and
a parish within it, beside great store of conies and wild foule, whereof
they make much gaine in due time of the yeare. Next vnto this we come to
Round Iland. S. Lides.
the Round Iland, which is about a mile ouer, then to S. Lides Iland,
(wherein is a parish-church dedicated to that Saint, beside conies,
wood, and wild foule, of which two later there is some indifferent store)
Notho. Auing.
the Notho, the Auing, (one of them being situat by south of another, and
the Auing halfe a mile ouer, which is a iust halfe lesse than the Notho)
Tyan.
and the Tyan, which later is a great Iland, furnished with a
parish-church, and no small plentie of conies as I heare. After the Tyan
S. Martines.
we come to S. Martines Ile, wherein is a faire towne, the Ile it selfe
being next vnto the Rusco for greatnesse, and verie well furnished with
conies & fresh springs. Also betwixt this and S. Maries, are ten other,
smaller, which reach out
Knolworth.
Sniuilliuer.
Menwethā.
Vollis. 1.
Surwihe.
Vollis. 2.
Arthurs Ile.
Guiniliuer.
Nenech.
Gothrois.
of the northeast into the southwest, as Knolworth, Sniuilliuer,
Menwetham, Vollis. 1. Surwihe, Vollis. 2. Arthurs Iland, Guiniliuer,
Nenech and Gothrois, whose estates are diuers: howbeit as no one of
these is to be accounted great in comparison of the other, so they all
yéeld a short grasse méet for sheepe and conies, as doo also the rest.
In the greater Iles likewise (whose names are commonlie such as those of
the townes or churches standing in the same) there are (as I here)
sundry lakes, and those neuer without great plentie of wild foule, so
that the Iles of Sylley, are supposed to be no lesse beneficiall to
their lords, than anie other whatsoeuer, within the compasse of our Ile,
Wild swine in Sylley.
or neere vnto our coasts. In some of them also are wild swine. And as
these Iles are supposed to be a notable safegard to the coast of
Cornewall, so in diuerse of them great store of tin is likewise to be
found. There is in like maner such plentie of fish taken among these
same, that beside the feeding of their swine withall, a man shall haue
more there for a penie, than in London for ten grotes. Howbeit their
cheefe commoditie is made by Keigh, which they drie, cut in peeces, and
carie ouer into little Britaine, where they exchange it there, for salt,
canuas, readie monie, or other merchandize which they doo stand in need
of. A like trade haue some of them also, with Buckhorne or dried
whiting, as I heare. But sith the author of this report did not flatlie
auouch it, I passe ouer that fish as not in season at this time. Thus
haue we viewed the richest and most wealthie Iles of Sylley, from whence
we must direct our course eastwards, vnto the mouth of the Sauerne, and
then go backe againe vnto the west point of Wales, continuing still our
voiage along vpon the west coast of Britaine, till we come to the Soluey
whereat the kingdomes part, & from which foorth on we must touch such
Ilands as lie vpon the west and north shore, till we be come againe vnto
the Scotish sea, and to our owne dominions.
Helenus. Priamus.
From the point of Cornewall therefore, or promontorie of Helenus (so
called, as some thinke, bicause Helenus the son of Priamus who arriued
here with Brute lieth buried there, except the sea haue washed awaie his
sepulchre) vntill we come vnto the mouth of Sauerne, we haue none Ilands
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at all that I doo know or heare of, but one litle Byland, Cape or
Peninsula, which is not to be counted of in this place. And yet sith I
Pendinas.
haue spoken of it, you shall vnderstand, that it is called Pendinas, and
beside that the compasse thereof is not aboue a mile, this is to be
remembered farder thereof, how there standeth a Pharos or light therein,
for ships which saile by those coasts in the night. There is also at the
verie point of the said Pendinas, a chappell of saint Nicholas, beside
the church of saint Ia, an Irish woman saint. It belonged of late to the
Lord Brooke, but now (as I gesse) the Lord Mountioy enioieth it. There
is also a blockhouse, and a péere in the eastside thereof, but the péere
is sore choked with sand, as is the whole shore furthermore from S. Ies
vnto S. Carantokes, insomuch that the greatest part of this Byland is
now couered with sands, which the sea casteth vp, and this calamitie
hath indured little aboue fiftie yeares, as the inhabitants doo affirme.
There are also two rocks neere vnto Tredwy, and another not farre from
Tintagell, all which many of the common sort doo repute and take for
Iles: wherefore as one desirous to note all, I thinke it not best that
these should be omitted: but to proceed. When we be come further, I
meane vnto the Sauerne mouth, we meet the two Holmes, of which one is
called Stepholme, and the other Flatholme, of their formes béeing in
déed parcels of ground and low soiles fit for little else than to beare
grasse for cattell, whereof they take those names. For Holme is an old
Saxon word, applied to all such places. Of these also Stepholme lieth
south of the Flatholme, about foure or fiue miles; the first also a mile
and an halfe, the other two miles or thereabout in length; but neither
of them a mile and an halfe in breadth, where they doo seeme to be the
broadest.
It should séeme by some that they are not worthie to be placed among
Ilands: yet othersome are of opinion, that they are not altogither so
base, as to be reputed amongst flats or rocks: but whatsoeuer they be,
this is sure, that they oft annoie such passengers and merchants as
passe and repasse vpon that riuer. Neither doo I read of any other Iles
Barri.
which lie by east of these, saue onelie the Barri, and Dunwen: the first
Barri is a flight shot from the shore.
of which is so called of one Barroc, a religious man (as Gyraldus saith)
and is about a flight shot from the shore. Herin also is a rocke
standing at the verie entrance of the cliffe, which hath a little rift
or chine vpon the side, wherevnto if a man doo laie his eare, he shall
heare a noise, as if smithes did worke at the forge, sometimes blowing
with their bellowes, and sometimes striking and clinking with hammers,
whereof manie men haue great wonder; and no maruell. It is about a mile
in compasse, situat ouer against Aberbarry, and hath a chappell in it.
Dunwen.
Dunwen is so called of a church (dedicated to a Welsh woman saint,
called Dunwen) that standeth there. It lieth more than two miles from
Henrosser, right against Neuen, and hath within it two faire mils, &
great store of conies. Certes if the sand increase so fast hereafter as
it hath done of late about it, it will be vnited to the maine within a
short season. Beyond these and toward the coast of southwales lie two
other Ilands, larger in quantitie than the Holmes, of which the one is
Caldee.
called Caldee or Inis Pyr. It hath a parish-church with a spire steeple,
and a pretie towne belonging to the countie of Pembroke, and
iurisdiction of one Dauid in Wales. Leland supposeth the ruines that are
found therein to haue béene of an old priorie sometimes called Lille,
which was a cell belonging to the monasterie of S. Dogmael, but of this
Londy.
I can saie nothing. The other hight Londy, wherein is also a village or
towne, and of this Iland the parson of the said towne is not onelie the
captaine, but hath thereto weife, distresse, and all other commodities
belonging to the same. It is little aboue sixteene miles from the coast
of Wales, though it be thirtie from Caldée, and yet it serueth (as I am
informed) lord and king in Deuonshire. Moreouer in this Iland is great
plentie of sheepe, but more conies, and therewithall of verie fine and
short grasse for their better food & pasturage; likewise much Sampere
vpon the shore, which is carried from thence in barrels. And albeit that
there be not scarslie fourtie housholds in the whole, yet the
inhabitants there with huge stones (alredie prouided) may kéepe off
thousands of their enimies, bicause it is not possible for anie
aduersaries to assaile them, but onelie at one place, and with a most
[Page 62]
dangerous entrance. In this voiage also we met with two other Ilands,
one of them called Shepes Ile, the other Rat Ile; the first is but a
little plot lieng at the point of the Baie, before we come at the
Blockehouse which standeth north of the same, at the verie entrie into
Milford hauen vpon the eastside. By north also of Shepes Ile, and
betwéene it & Stacke rocke, which lieth in the verie middest of the
hauen, at another point is Rat Ile yet smaller than the former, but what
Schalmey.
commodities are to be found in them as yet I cannot tell. Schalmey the
greater and the lesse lie northwest of Milford hauen a good waie. They
belong both to the crowne, but are not inhabited, bicause they be so
Schoncold.
often spoiled with pirates. Schoncold Ile ioineth vnto great Schalmey,
and is bigger than it, onlie a passage for ships parteth them, whereby
they are supposed to be one: Leland noteth them to lie in Milford hauen.
Beside these also we found the Bateholme, Stockeholme, Midland, and
Gresholme Iles, and then doubling the Wellock point, we came into a
Baie, where we saw saint Brides Iland, and another in the Sound betwéene
Ramsey and the point, of all which Iles and such rocks as are offensiue
to mariners that passe by them, it may be my hap to speake more at large
hereafter.
Limen or Ramsey.
Limen (as Ptolomie calleth it) is situat ouer against S. Dauids in Wales
(wherevnto we must néeds come, after we be past another little one,
which some men doo call Gresholme) & lieth directlie west of Schalmey.
In a late map I find this Limen to be called in English Ramsey: Leland
also confirmeth the same, and I cannot learne more thereof, than that it
is much greater than anie of the other last mentioned (sithens I
described the Holmes) and for temporall iurisdiction a member of
Penbrookeshire, as it is vnto S. Dauids for matters concerning the
church. Leland in his commentaries of England lib. 8. saieth that it
contained thrée Ilets, whereof the bishop of S. Dauids is owner of the
greatest, but the chanter of S. Dauids claimeth the second, as the
archdeacon of Cairmarden dooth the third. And in these is verie
excellent pasture for sheepe and horses, but not for other horned beasts
which lacke their vpper téeth by nature (whose substance is conuerted
into the nourishment of their hornes) and therefore cannot bite so low.
Mawr.
Next vnto this Ile we came to Mawr, an Iland in the mouth of Mawr, scant
a bow shoot ouer, and enuironed at the low water with fresh, but at the
high with salt, and here also is excellent catching of herings.
After this, procéeding on still with our course, we fetched a compasse,
going out of the north toward the west, and then turning againe (as the
coast of the countrie leadeth) vntill we sailed full south, leauing the
shore still on our right hand, vntill we came vnto a couple of Iles,
which doo lie vpon the mouth of the Soch, one of them being distant (as
we gessed) a mile from the other, and neither of them of anie greatnesse
almost worthie to be remembred. The first that we came vnto is called
Tudfall.
Tudfall, and therein is a church, but without anie parishioners, except
they be shéepe and conies. The quantitie thereof also is not much aboue
Penthlin.
six acres of ground, measured by the pole. The next is Penthlin, Myrach,
or Mererosse, situat in maner betwixt Tudfall or Tuidall and the shore,
and herein is verie good pasture for horsses, wherof (as I take it) that
Guelyn.
name is giuen vnto it. Next vnto them, we come vnto Gwelyn, a little Ile
which lieth southeast of the fall of Daron or Daren, a thing of small
quantitie, and yet almost parted in the mids by water, and next of all
vnto Bardsey an Iland lieng ouer against Periuincle the southwest point
or promontorie of Northwales (where Merlin Syluestris lieth buried) and
whither the rest of the monks of Bangor did flie to saue themselues,
when 2100. of their fellowes were slaine by the Saxon princes in the
quarell of Augustine the monke, & the citie of Caerleon or Chester raced
to the ground, and not since reedified againe to anie purpose. Ptolomie
calleth this Iland Lymnos, the Britons Enlhi, and therein also is a
parish-church, as the report goeth. From hence we cast about, gathering
still toward the northest, till we came to Caer Ierienrhod, a notable
rocke situat ouer against the mouth of the Leuenni, wherein standeth a
strong hold or fortresse, or else some towne or village. Certes we could
not well discerne whether of both it was, bicause the wind blew hard at
southwest, the morning was mistie, and our
[Page 63]
mariners doubting some flats to be couched not far from thence, hasted
awaie vnto Anglesei, whither we went a pace with a readie wind euen at
our owne desire.
This Iland (which Tacitus mistaketh no doubt for Mona Cæsaris, and so
dooth Ptolomie as appeareth by his latitudes) is situat about two miles
from the shore of Northwales. Paulus Iouius gesseth that it was in time
Anglesei cut from Wales by working of the sea.
past ioined to the continent, or maine of our Ile, and onelie cut off by
working of the Ocean, as Sicilia peraduenture was from Italie by the
violence of the Leuant or practise of some king that reigned there.
Thereby also (as he saith) the inhabitants were constreind at the first
to make a bridge ouer into the same, till the breach waxed so great,
that no such passage could anie longer be mainteined. But as these
things doo either not touch my purpose at all, or make smallie with the
Anglesei.
present description of this Ile: so (in comming to my matter) Anglesei is
found to be full so great as the Wight, and nothing inferiour, but
rather surmounting it, as that also which Cæsar calleth Mona in
fruitfulnesse of soile by manie an hundred fold. In old time it was
reputed and taken for the common granarie to Wales, as Sicilia was to
Rome and Italie for their prouision of corne. In like maner the Welshmen
themselues called it the mother of their countrie, for giuing their
minds wholie to pasturage, as the most easie and lesse chargeable trade,
they vtterlie neglected tillage, as men that leaned onelie to the
fertilitie of this Iland for their corne, from whence they neuer failed
to receiue continuall abundance. Gyraldus saith that the Ile of Anglesei
was no lesse sufficient to minister graine for the sustentation of all
the men of Wales, than the mountaines called Ereri or Snowdoni in
Northwales were to yeeld plentie of pasture for all the cattell
whatsoeuer within the aforesaid compasse, if they were brought togither
and left vpon the same. It contained moreouer so manie townes welnéere,
as there be daies in a yeare, which some conuerting into Cantreds haue
accompted but for three, as Gyraldus saith. Howbeit as there haue beene
I say 363. townes in Anglesei, so now a great part of that reckoning is
vtterlie shroonke, and so far gone to decaie, that the verie ruines of
them are vnneath to be séene & discerned: and yet it séemeth to be
méetlie well inhabited. Leland noting the smalnesse of our hundreds in
comparison to that they were in time past, addeth (so far as I remember)
that there are six of them in Anglesei, as Menay, Maltraith, Liuon,
Talbellion, Torkalin, and Tindaithin: herevnto Lhoid saith also how it
belonged in old time vnto the kingdome of Guinhed or Northwales, and
that therein at a towne called Aberfraw, being on the southwestside of
the Ile, the kings of Gwinhed held euermore their palaces, whereby it
came to passe, that the kings of Northwales were for a long time called
kings of Aberfraw, as the Welshmen named the kings of England kings of
London, till better instruction did bring them farther knowledge.
There are in Anglesei many townes and villages, whose names as yet I
cannot orderlie atteine vnto: wherefore I will content my selfe with the
rehearsall of so many as we viewed in sailing about the coasts, and
otherwise heard report of by such as I haue talked withall. Beginning
therefore at the mouth of the Gefni (which riseth at northeast aboue
Gefni or Geuenni, 20. miles at the least into the land) we passed first
by Hundwyn, then by Newborow, Port-Hayton, Beaumarrais, Penmon, Elian,
Almwoch, Burric (whereby runneth a rill into a creeke) Cornew, Holihed
(standing in the promontorie) Gwifen, Aberfraw, and Cair Cadwalader, of
all which, the two latter stand as it were in a nuke betweene the
Geuenni water, and the Fraw, wherevpon Aberfraw is situate. Within the
Iland we heard onelie of Gefni afore mentioned, of Gristial standing
vpon the same water, of Tefri, of Lanerchimedh, Lachtenfarwy and
Bodedrin, but of all these the cheefe is now Beaumarais, which was
builded sometime by king Edward the first, and therewithall a strong
castell about the yeare 1295. to kéepe that land in quiet. There are
also as Leland saith 31. parish-churches beside 69. chappels, that is, a
hundreth in all. But héerof I can saie little, for lacke of iust
instruction. In time past, the people of this Ile vsed not to seuerall
their grounds, but now they dig stonie hillocks, and with the stones
thereof they make rude walles, much like to those of Deuonshire, sith
they want hedge bote, fire bote, and house bote, or (to saie at one
word) timber, bushes and trees. As for wine, it is so plentifull and
[Page 64]
good cheape there most commonlie as in London, through the great
recourse of merchants from France, Spaine, and Italie vnto the aforesaid
Iland. The flesh likewise of such cattell as is bred there, wherof we
haue store yearelie brought vnto Cole faire in Essex is most delicate,
by reason of their excellent pasture, and so much was it esteemed by the
Romans in time past, that Columella did not onelie commend and preferre
them before those of Liguria, but the emperours themselues being neere
hand also caused their prouision to be made for nete out of Anglesei, to
feed vpon at their owne tables as the most excellent beefe. It taketh
now the name of Angles and Ei, which is to meane the Ile of Englismen,
bicause they wan it in the Conquerors time, vnder the leading of Hugh
earle of Chester, and Hugh of Shrewesburie. Howbeit they recouered it
againe in the time of William Rufus, when they spoiled the citie of
Glocester, ransacked Shrewesburie, and returned home with great bootie
and pillage, in which voiage also they were holpen greatlie by the
Irishmen, who after thrée yeares ioined with them againe, and slue the
earle of Shrewesburie (which then liued) with great crueltie. The
Welshmen call it Tiremone and Mon, and herein likewise is a promontorie
Holie head, or Cair kiby.
or Byland, called Holie head (which hath in time past beene named Cair
kyby, of Kyby a monke that dwelled there) from whence the readiest
passage is commonlie had out of Northwales to get ouer into Ireland, of
which Ile I will not speake at this time, least I shuld bereaue another
of that trauell. Yet Plinie saith, lib. 4. cap. 16. that it lieth not
farre off from and ouer against the Silures, which then dwelled vpon the
west coast of our Iland, and euen so farre as Dunbritton, and beyond:
Enilsnach, holie Ile.
but to our Cair kybi. The Britons named it Enylsnach, or holie Ile, of
the number of carcases of holie men, which they affirme to haue beene
buried there. But herein I maruell not a little, wherein women had
offended, that they might not come thither, or at the least wise returne
from thence without some notable reproch or shame vnto their bodies. By
south also of Hilarie point, somewhat inclining toward the east, lieth
Inis Lygod, a small thing (God wot) and therefore not worthie great
remembrance: neuertheles not to be omitted, though nothing else inforced
the memoriall thereof, but onelie the number and certeine tale of such
Iles as lie about our Iland. I might also speake of the Ile Mail Ronyad,
which lieth north west of Anglesei by sixe miles; but bicause the true
name hereof, as of manie riuers and streames are to me vnknowne, I am
the more willing to passe them ouer in silence, least I should be noted
to be farther corrupter of such words as I haue no skill to deliuer and
exhibit in their kind. And now to conclude with the description of the
whole Iland, this I will ad moreouer vnto hir commodities, that as there
are the best milstones of white, red, blew, and gréene gréets,
(especiallie in Tindaithin) so there is great gaines to be gotten by
fishing round about this Ile, if the people there could vse the trade:
but they want both cunning and diligence to take that matter in hand.
And as for temporall regiment, it apperteineth to the countie of
Cairnaruon, so in spirituall cases it belongeth to the bishoprike of
Bangor. This is finallie to be noted of Anglesei, that sundrie earthen
Ancient buriall.
pots are often found there of dead mens bones conuerted into ashes, set
with the mouthes downeward contrarie to the vse of other nations, which
turned the brims vpwards, whereof let this suffice.
Hauing thus described Anglesei, it resteth to report furthermore, how
that in our circuit about the same, we met with other little Ilets, of
which one lieth northwest thereof almost ouer against Butricke mouth, or
the fall of the water, that passeth by Butricke.
Adar.
Moil.
Rhomaid.
Ysterisd.
Adros.
Lygod.
The Britons called it Ynis Ader, that is to say, the Ile of birds in old
time, but now it hight Ynis Moil, or Ynis Rhomaid, that is the Ile of
porpasses. It hath to name likewise Ysterisd, and Adros. Being past
this, we came to the second lieng by north east, ouer against the
Hilarie point, called Ynis Ligod, that is to saie, the Ile of Mise, and
of these two this latter is the smallest, neither of them both being of
Seriall.
Prestholme.
any greatnesse to speake of. Ynis Seriall or Prestholme, lieth ouer
against Penmon, or the point called the head of Mon, where I found a
towne (as I told you) of the same denomination. Ptolomie nameth not this
Iland, whereof I maruell. It is parcell of Flintshire, and of the
iurisdiction of S. Asaph, and in fertilitie of soile, and breed of
cattell, nothing inferiour vnto Anglesei hir mother: although that for
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quantitie of ground it come infinitelie short thereof, and be nothing
comparable vnto it. The last Iland vpon the cost of Wales, hauing now
Credine.
left Anglesei, is called Credine, and although it lie not properlie
within the compasse of my description, yet I will not let to touch it by
the waie, sith the causey thither from Denbighland, is commonlie
ouerflowne. It is partlie made an Iland by the Conwey, and partlie by
the sea. But to proceed, when we had viewed this place, we passed foorth
to S. Antonies Ile, which is about two or thrée miles compasse or more,
a sandie soile, but yet verie batable for sheepe and cattell, it is well
replenished also with fresh wels, great plentie of wild foule, conies
and quarries of hard ruddie stone, which is oft brought thence to
Westchester, where they make the foundations of their buildings withall.
There are also two parish churches in the same, dedicated to S. Antonie
and S. Iohn, but the people are verie poore, bicause they be so oft
spoiled by pirats, although the lord of the same be verie wealthie
thorough the exchange made with them of his victuals, for their wares,
whereof they make good peniworths, as théeues commonlie doo of such
preies as they get by like escheat, notwithstanding their landing there
is verie dangerous, and onelie at one place. Howbeit they are
constreined to vse it, and there to make their marts. From hence we went
Hilberie.
on, vntill we came to the cape of Ile Brée, or Hilberie, and point of
Wyrale, from whence is a common passage into Ireland, of 18. or 20.
houres sailing, if the wether be not tedious. This Iland at the full sea
is a quarter of a mile from the land, and the streame betwéene foure
fadams déepe, as ship-boies haue oft sounded, but at a lowe water a man
may go ouer thither on the sand. The Ile of it selfe is verie sandie a
mile in compasse, and well stored with conies, thither also went a sort
of supersticious fooles in times past, in pilgrimage, to our ladie of
Hilberie, by whose offerings a cell of monkes there, which belonged to
Chester, was cherished and mainteined.
The next Iland vpon the coast of England is Man or Mona Cæsaris, which
some name Mana or Manim, but after Ptolomie, Monaoida, as some thinke,
though other ascribe that name to Anglesei, which the Welshmen doo
commonlie call Môn, as they doo this Manaw. It is supposed to be the
first, as Hirtha is the last of the Hebrides. Hector Boetius noteth a
difference betwéene them of 300. miles. But Plinie saith that Mona is
200000. miles from Camaldunum, lib. 2. cap. 75. It lieth also vnder 53.
degrées of latitude, and 30. minuts, and hath in longitude 16. degrees
and 40. minuts, abutting on the north side vpon S. Ninians in Scotland,
Furnesfels on the east, Prestholme and Anglesei on the south, and
Vlsther in Ireland on the west. It is greater than Anglesei by a third,
and there are two riuers in the same, whose heads doo ioine so néere,
that they doo seeme in maner to part the Ile in twaine. Some of the
Eubonia.
Meuania.
ancient writers, as Ethicus, &c: call it Eubonia, and other following
Orosius, Meuana or Mæuania, howbeit after Beda and the Scotish
histories, the Meuaniæ are all those Iles aforesaid called the Hebrides,
Eubonides, or Hebudes (whereof William Malmesburie, lib. 1. de regibus
(beside this our Mona) will haue Anglesei also to be one. Wherefore it
séemeth hereby that a number of our late writers ascribing the said name
vnto Mona onelie, haue not beene a little deceiued. Iornandes lib. de
Getis speaketh of a second Meuania; "Habet & aliam Meuaniam (saith he)
necnon & Orchadas." But which should be prima, as yet I do not read,
except it should be Anglesei; and then saith Malmesburie well. In like
sort Propertius speaketh of a Meuania, which he called Nebulosa, but he
meaneth it euidentlie of a little towne in Vmbria where he was borne,
lib. 4. eleg. De vrbe Rom. Wherfore there néedeth no vse of his
authoritie. This in the meane time is euident out of Orosius, lib. 1.
capite 2. that Scots dwelled somtime in this Ile, as also in Ireland,
which Ethicus also affirmeth of his owne time, and finallie confirmeth
that the Scots and Irish were sometime one people. It hath in length 24.
miles, and 8. in bredth, and is in maner of like distance from Galloway
in Scotland, Ireland and Cumberland in England, as Buchanan reporteth.
In this Iland also were some time 1300. families, of which 960. were in
the west halfe, and the rest in the other. But now through ioining house
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to house & land to land (a common plague and canker, which will eat vp
all, if prouision be not made in time to withstand this mischéefe) that
number is halfe diminished, and yet many of the rich inhabiters want
roome, and wote not how and where to bestowe themselues, to their quiet
contentations. Certes this impediment groweth not by reason that men
were greater in bodie, than they haue béene in time past, but onelie for
that their insatiable desire of inlarging their priuate possessions
increaseth still vpon them, and will doo more, except they be
restrained: but to returne to our purpose. It was once spoiled by the
Scots in the time of king Athelstane, chéeflie by Anlafus in his flight
from the bloudie battell, wherein Constantine king of Scotland was
ouercome: secondlie by the Scots 1388. after it came to the possession
of the English, for in the beginning the kings of Scotland had this
Iland vnder their dominion, almost from their first arriuall in this
Iland, and as Beda saith till Edwine king of the Northumbers wan it from
them, and vnited it to his kingdome. After the time of Edwine, the Scots
gat the possession thereof againe, and held it till the Danes & Norwaies
wan it from them, who also kept it (but with much trouble) almost 370.
yeares vnder the gouernance of their viceroies, whome the kings of
Norwaie inuested vnto that honor, till Alexander the third king of that
name in Scotland recouered it from them, with all the rest of those Iles
that lie vpon the west coast, called also Sodorenses in the daies of
Magnus king of Norwaie. And sithens that time the Scotish princes haue
not ceased to giue lawes to such as dwelled there, but also from time to
time appointed such bishops as should exercise ecclesiasticall
iurisdiction in the same, till it was won from them by our princes, and
Chronica Tinemuthi.
so vnited vnto the realme of England. Finallie, how after sundrie sales
bargains and contracts of matrimonie (for I read that William Scroope
the kings Vicechamberleine, did buy this Ile and crowne thereof of the
lord William Montacute earle of Sarum) it came vnto the ancestours of
the earles of Darbie, who haue béene commonlie said to be kings of Man,
the discourse folowing shall more at large declare. Giraldus noteth a
contention betwéene the kings of England & Ireland for the right of this
Iland, but in the end, when by a comprimise the triall of the matter was
referred to the liues or deaths of such venemous wormes as should be
brought into the same, and it was found that they died not at all, as
the like doo in Ireland, sentence passed with the king of England, & so
he reteined the Iland. But howsoeuer this matter standeth, and whether
anie such thing was done at all or not, sure it is that the people of
the said Ile were much giuen to witchcraft and sorcerie (which they
learned of the Scots a nation greatlie bent to that horrible practise)
in somuch that their women would oftentimes sell wind to the mariners,
inclosed vnder certeine knots of thred, with this iniunction, that they
which bought the same, should for a great gale vndoo manie, and for the
Tall men in Man.
lesse a fewer or smaller number. The stature of the men and also
fertilitie of this Iland are much commended, and for the latter supposed
verie néere to be equall with that of Anglesei, in all commodities.
There are also these townes therein, as they come now to my remembrance,
Rushen, Dunglasse, Holme towne, S. Brids, Bala cury (the bishops house)
S. Mich. S. Andrew, kirk Christ, kirk Louel, S. Mathees, kirk S. Anne,
Pala sala, kirk S. Marie, kirk Concane, kirk Malu, and Home. But of all
these Rushen with the castell is the strongest. It is also in recompense
Riuers.
of the common want of wood, indued with sundrie pretie waters, as first
of al the Burne rising in the northside of Warehill botoms, and
branching out by southwest of kirk S. An, it séemeth to cut off a great
part of the eastside thereof, from the residue of that Iland. From those
hils also (but of the south halfe) commeth the Holme and Holmey, by a
towne of the same name, in the verie mouth whereof lieth the Pile afore
mentioned. They haue also the Bala passing by Bala cury, on the
westside, and the Rame on the north, whose fall is named Ramesei hauen,
as I doo read in Chronicles.
There are moreouer sundrie great hils therein,Hilles.
as that wherevpon S.
Mathees standeth, in the northeast part of the Ile, a parcell whereof
commeth flat south, betwéene kirk Louell, and kirk Marie, yéelding out
of their botoms the water Bala, whereof I spake before. Beside these and
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well toward the south part of the Ile, I find the Warehils, which are
extended almost from the west coast ouertwhart vnto the Burne streame.
Hauens.
It hath also sundrie hauens, as Ramsei hauen, by north Laxam hauen, by
east Port Iris, by southwest Port Home, and Port Michell, by west. In
Calfe of man.
The pile.
S. Michels Ile.
like sort there are diuers Ilets annexed to the same, as the Calfe of
man on the south, the Pile on the west, and finallie S. Michels Ile
Sheepe.
in the gulfe called Ranoths waie in the east. Moreouer the sheepe of
this countrie are excéeding huge, well woolled, and their tailes of such
Hogs.
greatnesse as is almost incredible. In like sort their hogs are in maner
Barnacles.
monstrous. They haue furthermore great store of barnacles bréeding vpon
their coasts, but yet not so great store as in Ireland, and those (as
there also) of old ships, ores, masts, peeces of rotten timber as they
saie, and such putrified pitched stuffe, as by wrecke hath happened to
corrupt vpon that shore. Howbeit neither the inhabitants of this Ile,
Barnacles neither fish nor flesh.
nor yet of Ireland can readilie saie whether they be fish or flesh, for
although the religious there vsed to eat them as fish, yet elsewhere,
some haue beene troubled, for eating of them in times prohibited for
heretikes and lollards.
For my part, I haue béene verie desirous to vnderstand the vttermost of
the bréeding of barnacls, & questioned with diuers persons about the
same. I haue red also whatsoeuer is written by forren authors touching
the generation of that foule, & sought out some places where I haue
béene assured to sée great numbers of them: but in vaine. Wherefore I
vtterlie despaired to obteine my purpose, till this present yeare of
Grace 1584. and moneth of Maie, wherein going to the court at Gréenewich
from London by bote, I saw sundrie ships lieng in the Thames newlie come
home, either from Barbarie or the Canarie Iles (for I doo not well
remember now from which of these places) on whose sides I perceiued an
infinit sort of shells to hang so thicke as could be one by another.
Drawing néere also, I tooke off ten or twelue of the greatest of them, &
afterward hauing opened them, I saw the proportion of a foule in one of
them more perfectlie than in all the rest, sauing that the head was not
yet formed, bicause the fresh water had killed them all (as I take it)
and thereby hindered their perfection. Certeinelie the feathers of the
taile hoeng out of the shell at least two inches, the wings (almost
perfect touching forme) were garded with two shels or shéeldes
proportioned like the selfe wings, and likewise the brestbone had hir
couerture also of like shellie substance, and altogither resembling the
figure which Lobell and Pena doo giue foorth in their description of
this foule: so that I am now fullie persuaded that it is either the
barnacle that is ingendred after one maner in these shels, or some other
sea-foule to vs as yet vnknowen. For by the feathers appearing and forme
so apparant, it cannot be denied, but that some bird or other must
proceed of this substance, which by falling from the sides of the ships
in long voiages, may come to some perfection. But now it is time for me
to returne againe vnto my former purpose.
Bishop of Man.
There hath sometime beene, and yet is a bishop of this Ile, who at the
first was called Episcopus Sodorensis, when the iurisdiction of all the
Hebrides belonged vnto him. Whereas now he that is bishop there, is but
a bishops shadow, for albeit that he beare the name of bishop of Man,
yet haue the earles of Darbie, as it is supposed, the cheefe profit of
his sée (sauing that they allow him a little somewhat for a flourish)
Patrone of Man.
notwithstanding that they be his patrons, and haue his nomination vnto
that liuing. The first bishop of this Ile was called Wimundus or
Raymundus, and surnamed Monachus Sauinensis, who by reason of his
extreame and tyrannicall crueltie toward the Ilanders, had first his
sight taken from him, & then was sent into exile. After him succéeded
another moonke in king Stephens daies called Iohn, and after him one
Marcus, &c: other after other in succession, the sée it selfe being now
also subiect to the archbishop of Yorke for spirituall iurisdiction.
King of Man.
In time of Henrie the second, this Iland also had a king, whose name was
Cuthred, vnto whome Vinianus the cardinall came as legate 1177. and
wherin Houeden erreth not. In the yeare also 1228. one Reginald was
viceroy or petie king of Man, afterward murthered by his subiects. Then
Olauus, after him Hosbach the sonne of Osmond Hacon, 1290. who being
slaine, Olauus and Gotredus parted this kingdome of Sodora, in such
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wise, that this had all the rest of the Iles, the other onelie the Ile
of Man at the first; but after the slaughter of Gotredus, Olauus held
all, after whom Olauus his sonne succeeded. Then Harald sonne to Olauus,
who being entered in Maie, and drowned vpon the coastes of Ireland, his
brother Reginald reigned twentie and seuen daies, and then was killed
the first of June, whereby Olauus aliàs Harald sonne to Gotred ruled in
the Ile one yeare. Next vnto him succéeded Magnus the second sonne of
Olauus, and last of all Iuarus, who held it so long as the Norwaies were
lords thereof. But being once come into the hands of the Scots, one
Godred Mac Mares was made lieutenant, then Alane, thirdlie Maurice
Okarefer, and fourthlie one of the kings chapleines, &c. I would gladlie
haue set downe the whole catalog of all the viceroyes and lieutenants:
but sith I can neither come by their names nor successions, I surcesse
to speake any more of them, and also of the Ile it selfe, whereof this
may suffice.
After we haue in this wise described the Ile of Man, with hir
commodities, we returned eastwards backe againe unto the point of
Ramshed, where we found to the number of six Ilets of one sort and
other, whereof the first greatest and most southwesterlie, is named
Wauay.
the Wauay. It runneth out in length, as we gessed, about fiue miles and
more from the southeast into the northwest, betwéene which and the maine
land lie two little ones, whose names are Oldborrow and Fowlney. The
Fouldra.
fourth is called the Fouldra, and being situate southeast of the first,
it hath a prettie pile or blockhouse therin, which the inhabitants name
Fola.
Roa.
the pile of Fouldra. By east thereof in like sort lie the Fola and the
Roa, plots of no great compasse, and yet of all these six, the first and
Fouldra are the fairest and most fruitfull. From hence we went by
Rauenglasse.
Rauenglasse point, where lieth an Iland of the same denomination, as
Reginald Wolfe hath noted in his great card, not yet finished, nor
likelie to be published. He noteth also two other Ilets, betwéene the
same and the maine land; but Leland speaketh nothing of them (to my
remembrance) neither any other card, as yet set foorth of England: and
thus much of the Ilands that lie vpon our shore in this part of my
voiage.
Hauing so exactlie as to me is possible, set downe the names and
positions of such Iles, as are to be found vpon the coast of the Quéenes
Maiesties dominions, now it resteth that we procéed orderlie with those
Iles in Scotland.
that are séene to lie vpon the coast of Scotland, that is to saie, in
the Irish, the Deucalidonian & the Germans seas, which I will performe
in such order as I may, sith I cannot do so much therin as I would. Some
therefore doo comprehend and diuide all the Iles that lie about the
north coast of this Ile now called Scotland into thrée parts, sauing
that they are either occidentals, the west Iles, aliàs the Orchades &
Zelandine, or the Shetlands. They place the first betwéene Ireland and
the Orchades, so that they are extended from Man and the point of
Cantire almost vnto the Orchades in the Deucalidonian sea, and after
some are called the Hebrides. In this part the old writers indéed placed
Hemodes of some called Acmodes, sée Plinie, Mela, Martianus,
Capella, Plutarch. de defect. orac.the Hebrides or Hemodes, which diuers
call the Hebudes and the Acmodes; albeit the writers varie in their
numbers, some speaking of 30 Hebudes and seuen Hemodes; some of fiue
Ebudes, as Solinus, and such as follow his authoritie. Howbeit the late
Scottish writers doo product a summe of more than 300 of these Ilands in
all, which sometime belonged to the Scots, sometime to the Norwegians,
and sometime to the Danes. The first of these is our Manaw, of which I
haue before intreated: next vnto this is Alisa a desert Ile, yet
replenished with conies, soland foule, and a fit harbor for fishermen
that in time of the yeare lie vpon the coast thereof for herings. Next
vnto this is the Arran, a verie hillie and craggie soile, yet verie
plentifull of fish all about the coast, and wherein is a verie good
hauen: ouer against the mouth whereof lieth the Moll, which is also no
small defence to such seafaring men as seeke harbor in that part. Then
came we by the Fladwa or Pladwa, no lesse fruitfull and stored with
conies than the Bota, Bura, or Botha, of eight miles long & foure miles
broad, a low ground but yet verie batable, and wherein is good store of
short and indifferent pasture: it hath also a towne there called Rosse,
and a castell named the Camps. There is also another called the Marnech,
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an Iland of a mile in length, and halfe a mile in breadth, low ground
also but yet verie fertile. In the mouth likewise of the Glot, lieth the
more Cumber and the lesse, not farre in sunder one from another, and
both fruitfull inough the one for corne, and the other for Platyceraton.
The Auon another Iland lieth about a mile from Cantire, and is verie
commodious to ships, wherof it is called Auon, that is to saie,
Portuosa, or full of harbor: and therefore the Danes had in time past
great vse of it. Then haue we the Raclind, the Kyntar, the Cray, the
Gegaw six miles in length and a mile and a halfe in breadth; the Dera
full of déere, and not otherwise vnfruitfull: and therefore some thinke
Scarba.
that it was called the Ile of déere in old time. Scarba foure miles in
length, and one in breadth, verie little inhabited, and thereinto the
sea betwéene that and the Ile of déere is so swift and violent, that
except it be at certeine times, it is not easilie nauigable. Being past
these, we come to certeine Ilands of no great fame, which lie scattered
here and there, as Bellach, Gyrastell, Longaie, both the Fiolas, the
thrée Yarues, Culbrenin, Duncomell, Lupar, Belnaua, Wikerua, Calfile,
Luing, Sele Ile, Sound, of which the last thrée are fruitfull, and
Slate Ile.
belong to the earle of Argile. Then haue we the Slate, so called of the
tiles that are made therin. The Nagsey, Isdalf, and the Sken (which
later is also called Thian, of a wicked herbe growing there greatlie
hurtfull, and in colour not much vnlike the lillie, sauing that it is of
a more wan and féeble colour) Vderga, kings Ile, Duffa or blacke Ile,
Kirke Ile and Triarach. There is also the Ile Ard, Humble Ile, Greene
Ile, and Heth Ile, Arbor Ile, Gote Ile, Conies Ile aliàs idle Ile, Abrid
Ile or bird Ile, and Lismor, wherein the bishop of Argill sometime held
his palace, being eight miles in length and two miles in breadth, and
not without some mines also of good mettall. There is also the Ile
Ouilia, Siuna, Trect, Shepey, Fladaw, Stone Ile, Gresse, great Ile,
Ardis, Musadell, & Berner, sometime called the holie sanctuarie, Vghe
Ile, Molochasgyr, and Drinacha, now ouergrowne with bushes, elders, and
vtterlie spoiled by the ruines of such great houses as haue heretofore
béene found therin. There is in like sort the Wijc, the Ranse, and the
Caruer.
Ila.
In this tract also, there are yet thrée to intreat of, as Ila, Mula and
Iona, of which the first is one of the most, that hath not béene least
accounted of. It is not much aboue 24 miles in length, and in breadth 16
reaching from the south into the north, and yet it is an excéeding rich
plot of ground verie plentious of corne, cattell, déere, and also lead,
and other mettals, which were easie to be obteined, if either the people
were industrious, or the soile yéeldable of wood to fine and trie out
the same. In this Iland also there is a lake of swéet water called the
Laie, and also a baie wherein are sundrie Ilands; and therevnto another
lake of fresh water, wherein the Falangam Ile is situate, wherein the
souereigne of all the Iles sometime dwelled. Néere vnto this is the
Round Ile.
round Ile, so called of the consultations there had: for there was a
court sometime holden, wherein 14 of the principall inhabitants did
minister iustice vnto the rest, and had the whole disposition of things
committed vnto them, which might rule vnto the benefit of those Ilands.
There is also the Stoneheape, an other Iland so called of the heape of
stones that is therein. On the south side also of Ila, we find moreouer
the Colurne, Mulmor, Osrin, Brigidan, Corkerke, Humble Ile, Imersga,
Bethy, Texa, Shepeie, Naosig, Rinard, Cane, Tharscher, Aknor, Gret Ile,
Man Ile, S. Iohns Ile, and Stackbed. On the west side thereof also lieth
Ouersey, whereby runneth a perilous sea, and not nauigable, but at
certeine houres, Merchant Ile, Vsabrast, Tanask, Neff, Wauer Ile,
Oruans, Hog Ile, and Colauanso.
Mula.
Mula is a right noble Ile, 24 miles in length and so manie in bredth,
rough of soile, yet fruitfull enough: beside woods, déere, & good
harbrough for ships, replenished with diuers and sundrie townes and
castels. Ouer against Columkill also, it hath two riuers, which yeld
verie great store of salmons, and other riuellets now altogither
vnfruitfull, beside two lakes, in each of which is an Iland: and
likewise in euerie of these Ilands a castell. The sea beating vpon this
Ile, maketh foure notable baies wherein great plentie and verie good
herrings are taken. It hath also in the northwest side Columbria, or the
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Ile of doues; on the southeast, Era: both verie commodious for fishing,
cattell, and corne. Moreouer, this is woorth the noting in this Ile
aboue all the rest, that it hath a plesant spring, arising two miles in
distance from the shore, wherein are certeine little egs found, much
like vnto indifferent pearles, both for colour and brightnesse, and
thereto full of thicke humour, which egs being carried by violence of
the fresh water vnto the salt, are there within the space of twelue
houres conuerted into great shels, which I take to be mother pearle;
except I be deceiued.
Iona.
Iona was sometime called Columkill, in fame and estimation nothing
inferiour to anie of the other, although in length it excéed little
aboue two miles, and in breadth one. Certes it is verie fruitfull of all
such commodities, as that climat wherein it standeth dooth yeeld, and
beareth the name of Columbus the abbat, of whome I haue spoken more at
large in my Chronologie. There were somtimes also two monasteries
therein, one of moonks builded by Fergus, another of nuns: and a parish
church, beside many chappels builded by the Scotish kings, and such
princes as gouerned in the Iles. And when the English had once gotten
possession of the Ile of Manaw, a bishops see was erected in the old
monasterie of Columbus, whereby the iurisdiction of those Iles was still
mainteined and continued. Certes there remaine yet in this Iland the old
burials apperteining to the most noble families that had dwelled in the
west Iles; but thrée aboue other are accompted the most notable, which
haue little houses builded vpon them. That in the middest hath a stone,
Regum tumuli.
whereon is written, Tumuli regum Scotiæ, The burials of the kings of
Scotland: for (as they saie) fourtie eight of them were there interred.
Another is intituled with these words, The burials of the kings of
Ireland, bicause foure of them lie in that place. The third hath these
words written thereon, The graues of the kings of Norwaie, for there
eight of them were buried also, and all through a fond suspicion
conceiued of the merits of Columbus. Howbeit in processe of time, when
Malcolme Cammor had erected his abbeie at Donfermeling, he gaue occasion
to manie of his successors to be interred there.
About this Iland there lie six other Iles dispersed, small in quantitie,
but not altogither barren, sometimes giuen by the kings of Scotland and
lords of the Iles vnto the abbeie of saint Columbus, of which the Soa,
albeit that it yeeld competent pasturage for shéepe, yet is it more
commodious, by such egs as the great plentie of wildfoule there bréeding
doo The Ile of Shrewes. laie within the same. Then is there
the Ile of Shrewes or of women; as the more sober heads doo call it.
Also Rudan, & next vnto that, the Rering. There is also the Shen halfe a
mile from Mula, whose bankes doo swarme with conies: it hath also a
parish church, but most of the inhabitants doo liue and dwell in Mula.
There is also the Eorse or the Arse, and all these belong vnto saint
Columbus abbeie. Two miles from Arse is the Olue, an Iland fiue miles in
length, and sufficientlie stored with corne and grasse, & not without a
good hauen for ships to lie and harbor in. There is also the Colfans, an
iland fruitfull inough, and full of cornell trées. There is not far off
Mosse Ile.
also the Gomater, Stafa, the two Kerneburgs, and the Mosse Ile, in the
old Brittish speech called Monad, that is to saie Mosse. The soile of it
is verie blacke, bicause of the corruption & putrefaction of such woods
as haue rotted thereon: wherevpon also no small plentie of mosse is bred
and ingendered. The people in like maner make their fire of the said
earth, which is fullie so good as our English turffe. There is also the
Long, & six miles further toward the west, Tirreie, which is eight miles
in length and thrée in breadth, & of all other one of the most
plentifull for all kinds of commodities: for it beareth corne, cattell,
fish, and seafowle aboundantlie. It hath also a well of fresh water, a
castell, and a verie good hauen for great vessels to lie at safegard in.
Two miles from this also is the Gun, and the Coll two miles also from
the Gun. Then passed we by the Calfe, a verie wooddie Iland, the foure
gréene Iles, the two glasse or skie Ilands, the Ardan, the Ile of
woolfes, & then the great Iland which reacheth from the east into the
west, is sixteene miles in length, and six in breadth, full of mounteins
and swelling woods: and for asmuch as it is not much inhabited, the
seafoules laie great plentie of egs there, whereof such as will, may
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gather what number them listeth. Vpon the high cliffes and rocks also the
Soland géese are taken verie plentifullie. Beyond this, about foure
miles also is the Ile of horsses: and a little from that the hog Iland,
which is not altogither vnfruitfull. There is a falcon which of custome
bréedeth there, and therevnto it is not without a conuenient hauen. Not
farre off also is the Canna, and the Egga, little Iles, but the later
full of Soland géese. Likewise the Sobratill, more apt to hunt in than
méet for anie other commoditie that is to be reaped thereby.
Skie.
After this we came to the Skie, the greatest Ile about all Scotland: for
it is two and fortie miles long; and somewhere eight, & in some places
twelue miles broad: it is moreouer verie hillie, which hilles are
therevnto loaden with great store of wood, as the woods are with
pasture, the fields with corne and cattell; and (besides all other
commodities) with no small heards of mares, whereby they raise great
aduantage and commoditie. It hath fiue riuers verie much abounding with
salmons, and other fresh streams not altogither void of that prouision.
It is inuironed also with manie baies, wherein great plentie of herrings
is taken in time of the yéere. It hath also a noble poole of fresh
water; fiue castels and sundrie townes; as Aie, S. Iohns, Dunwegen, S.
Nicholas, &c. The old Scots called it Skianacha, that is, Winged, but
now named Skie. There lie certeine small Ilands about this also, as
Rausa a batable soile for corne & gras; Conie Iland full of woods and
conies; Paba a theeuish Iland, in whose woods théeues do lurke to rob
such as passe by them. Scalpe Ile, which is full of deere; Crowling,
wherein is verie good harbour for ships; Rarsa, full of béechen woods
and stags, being in length seuen miles, and two in breadth. The Ron, a
woodie Ile and full of heath: yet hath it a good hauen, which hath a
little Iland called Gerloch on the mouth thereof, and therein lurke
manie théeues. There is not farre off from this Ron, to wit about six
miles also, the Flad, the Tiulmen, Oransa, Buie the lesse, and Buie the
more and fiue other little trifling Iles, of whose names I haue no
notice.
After these we come vnto the Ise, a pretie fertile Iland, to the Oue, to
the Askoome, to the Lindill. And foure score miles from the Skie towards
the west, to the Ling, the Gigarmen, the Berner, the Magle, the Pable,
the Flad, the Scarpe, the Sander, the Vateras, which later hath a noble
hauen for great ships, beside sundrie other commodities: and these nine
last rehearsed are vnder the dominion of the bishop of the Iles. After
Bar.
this we come to the Bar, an Iland seauen miles in length, not
vnfruitfull for grasse and corne, but the chiefe commoditie thereof
lieth by taking of herrings, which are there to be had abundantlie. In
one baie of this Iland there lieth an Islet, and therein standeth a
strong castell. In the north part hereof also is an hill which beareth
good grasse from the foot to the top, and out of that riseth a spring,
which running to the sea, doth carrie withall a kind of creature not yet
perfectlie formed, which some do liken vnto cockels; and vpon the shore
where the water falleth into the sea, they take vp a kind of shelfish,
when the water is gone, which they suppose to be ingendred or increased
after this manner. Betwéene the Barre and the Visse lie also these
Ilands, Orbaus, Oue, Hakerset, Warlang, Flad, the two Baies, Haie,
Helsaie, Gigaie, Lingaie, Fraie, Fudaie, and Friskaie. The Visse is
thirtie miles long and six miles broad; and therein are sundrie fresh
waters, but one especiallie of three miles in length: neuerthelesse, the
sea hath now of late found a waie into it, so that it cannot be kept off
with a banke of three score foot, but now and then it will flowe into
the same, and leaue sea-fish behind it in the lake. There is also a fish
bred therein almost like vnto a salmon, sauing that it hath a white
bellie, a blacke backe, and is altogither without scales: it is likewise
a great harbour for théeues and pirats.
Eight miles beyond this lieth the Helscher, appertinent to the nuns of
Iona: then haue we the Hasker, verie plentifullie benefited by seales,
which are there taken in time of the yéere. Thrée score miles from this
also is the Hirth, whose inhabitants are rude in all good science and
religion; yet is the Iland verie fruitfull in all things, and bringeth
foorth shéepe farre greater than are else-where to be found, for they
are as big as our fallow deare, horned like bugles, and haue their
tailes hanging to the ground. He that is owner of this Ile, sendeth ouer
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his bailiffe into the same at midsummer, to gather in his duties, and
Baptisme without preests.
with him a préest to saie masse, and to baptise all the children borne
since that time of the yéere precedent: or if none will go ouer with him
(bicause the voiage is dangerous) then doth each father take paine to
baptise his owne at home. Their rents are paid commonlie in dried seales
and sea foule. All the whole Ile is not aboue a mile euerie waie; and
except thrée mounteines that lie vpon one part of the shore, such as
dwell in the other Iles can see no part thereof.
Being past the Visse, we came after to Walaie, the Soa, the Strome, to
Pabaie, to Barner, Ensaie, Killiger, the two Sagas, the Hermodraie,
Scarfe, Grie, Ling, Gilling, Heie, Hoie, Farlaie, great So, little So,
Ise, Sein the more, Sein the lesse, Tarant, Slegan, Tuom, Scarpe,
Hareie, and the seauen holie Ilands, which are desert and bréed nothing
Wild sheepe.
but a kind of wild shéepe, which are often hunted, but seldome or neuer
eaten. For in stéed of flesh they haue nothing but tallow; and if anie
flesh be, it is so vnsauorie, that few men care to eate of it, except
great hunger compell them. I suppose, that these be the wild sheepe
which will not be tamed; and bicause of the horrible grenning thereof,
Tigers.
is taken for the bastard tiger. Their haire is betweene the wooll of a
sheepe, and the haire of a goat, resembling both, shacked, and yet
absolutelie like vnto neither of both: it maie be also the same beast
which Capitolinus calleth Ouis fera, shewed in the time of Gordian the
emperour; albeit that some take the same for the Camelopardalis: but
hereof I make no warrantise.
There is also not farre off the Garuell, the Lambe, the Flad, the
Kellas, the two Bernars, the Kirt, the two Buies, the Viraie, the
Ile of Pigmeies.
Pabaie, the two Sigrams, and the Ile of Pigmeies (which is so called
vpon some probable coniecture) for manie little sculs and bones are
dailie there found déepe in the ground, perfectlie resembling the bodies
of children; & not anie of greater quantities, wherby their coniecture
(in their opinion) is the more likelie to be true. There is also the
Fabill Ile, Adams Ile, the Ile of Lambes, Hulmes, Viccoll, Haueraie,
Car, Era, Columbes Ile, Tor Ile, Iffurd, Scalpe, Flad, and the Swet; on
whose east side is a certeine vault or caue, arched ouer, a flight shoot
in length, wherevnto meane ships do vse to runne for harbour with full
saile when a tempest ouertaketh them, or the raging of the sea, in those
parts do put them in danger of wrecke. Also we passed by the old castell
Ile, which is a pretie and verie commodious plat for fish, foule, egges,
corne, and pasture. There is also the Ile Eust or Eu, which is full of
wood, and a notable harbour for théeues, as is also the Grinort;
likewise the preests Ile, which is verie full of sea foule and good
pasture. The Afull, the two Herbrerts, to wit, the greater and the
lesse; and the Iles of Horsses, and Mertaika: and these 8 lie ouer
against the baie which is called the Lake Brian. After this, we go
toward the north, and come to the Haraie, and the Lewis or the Leug,
both which make (in truth) but one Iland of thrée score miles in length,
and sixtéene in breadth, being distinguished by no water, but by huge
woods, bounds, and limits of the two owners that doo possesse those
parts. The south part is called Haraie, Lewis called Thule by
Tacitus, with no better authoritie than the Angleseie Mona. and the
whole situate in the Deucalidon sea, ouer against the Rosse, & called
Thule by Tacitus, wherein are manie lakes, and verie pretie villages, as
lake Erwijn, lake Vnsalsago: but of townes, S. Clements, Stoie, Nois, S.
Columbane, Radmach, &c. In like sort, there are two churches, whereof
one is dedicated to saint Peter, an other to S. Clement, beside a
monasterie called Roadill. The soile also of this Ile is indifferent
fruitfull; but they reape more profit vnder the ground than aboue, by
digging. There is neither woolfe, fox, nor serpent séene in this Iland;
yet are there great woods therein, which also separate one part from the
other. Likewise there be plentie of stags, but farre lesse in quantitie
than ours: and in the north part of the Iland also is a riuer which
greatlie aboundeth with salmons. That part also called Lewisa, which is
the north half of the Ile is well inhabited toward the sea coasts, and
hath riuers no lesse plentifull for salmon than the other halfe. There
is also great store of herrings taken, whereof the fisher men doo raise
great gaine and commoditie; and no lesse plentie of sheepe, which they
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doo not sheere, but plucke euerie yeere; yet is the ground of this part
verie heathie, and full of mosse, and the face thereof verie swart and
blacke, for the space of a foot in depth, through the corruption of such
woods as in time past haue rotted on the same. And therefore in time of
the yeere they conuert it into turffe to burne, as néede shall serue;
and in the yéere after, hauing well doonged it in the meane time with
slawke of the sea, they sowe barleie in the selfe places where the
turffes grew, and reape verie good corne, wherewith they liue and féed.
Tithe whales.
Such plentie of whales also are taken in this coast, that the verie
tithe hath béene knowne, in some one yéere, to amount vnto seauen and
twentie whales of one greatnesse and other. This is notable also in this
part of the Ile, that there is a great caue two yards déepe of water
when the sea is gone, and not aboue foure when it is at the highest;
ouer which great numbers doo sit of both sexes and ages, with hooks and
lines, and catch at all times an infinite deale of fish, wherewith they
liue, and which maketh them also the more idle.
Being past this about sixtie miles, we come vnto the Rona, or Ron, which
some take for the last of the Hebrides, distant (as I said) about fortie
miles from the Orchades, and one hundreth and thirtie from the
promontorie of Dungisbe. The inhabitants of this Ile are verie rude and
irreligious, the lord also of the soile dooth limit their number of
housholds, & hauing assigned vnto them what numbers of the greater and
smaller sorts of cattell they shall spend and inioie for their owne
prouision, they send the ouerplus yéerlie vnto him to Lewis. Their
cheefe paiments consist of a great quantitie of meale, which is verie
plentifull among them, sowed vp in shéepes skins. Also of mutton and sea
foule dried, that resteth ouer and aboue, which they themselues do
spend. And if it happen that there be more people in the Iland than the
lords booke or rate dooth come vnto, then they send also the ouerplus of
them in like maner vnto him: by which means they liue alwaies in
plentie. They receiue no vices from strange countries, neither know or
heare of anie things doone else-where than in their owne Iland. Manie
whales are taken also vpon their coasts, which are likewise replenished
with seale, and porpasse, and those which are either so tame, or so
fierce, that they abash not at the sight of such as looke vpon them,
neither make they anie hast to flie out of their presence.
Suilscraie.
Beyond this Ile, about 16 miles westward, there is another called
Suilscraie, of a mile length, void of grasse, and without so much as
heath growing vpon hir soile: yet are there manie cliffes and rocks
therein, which are couered with blacke mosse, whereon innumerable sorts
of foules do bréed and laie their egs. Thither in like sort manie doo
saile from Lewissa, to take them yoong in time of the yeare, before they
be able to flie, which they also kill and drie in eight daies space, and
then returne home againe with them, and great plentie of fethers
gathered in this voiage. One thing is verie strange and to be noted in
Colke foule.
this Iland, of the Colke foule, which is little lesse than a goose; and
this kind commeth thither but once in the yeare, to wit, in the spring,
to laie hir egs and bring vp hir yoong, till they be able to shift for
themselues, & then they get them awaie togither to the sea, and come no
more vntill that time of the yéere which next insueth. At the same
season also they cast their fethers there, as it were answering tribute
to nature for the vse of hir mossie soile: wherein it is woonderfull to
sée, that those fethers haue no stalkes, neither anie thing that is hard
in them, but are séene to couer their bodies as it were wooll or downe,
till breeding time (I saie) wherein they be left starke naked.
Orchades.
The Orchades (whose first inhabitants were the Scithians, which came
from those Iles where the Gothes did inhabit, as some sparks yet
remaining among them of that language doo declare) lie partlie in the
Germaine, and partlie in the Calidon seas, ouer against the point of
Dunghisbie (being in number eight and twentie, or as other saie thirtie
& one, yet some saie thirtie thrée, as Orosius, but Plinie saith fortie)
and now belonging to the crowne of Scotland, as are the rest whereof
héeretofore I haue made report, since we crossed ouer the mouth of the
Solueie streame, to come into this countrie. Certes the people of these
Islands reteine much of their old sparing diets, and therevnto they are
of goodlie stature, tall, verie comelie, healthfull, of long life, great
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strength, whitish colour,as men that féed most vpon fish; sith the cold
is so extreame in those parts, that the ground bringeth foorth but small
store of wheate, and in maner verie little or no fuell at all, wherewith
to warme them in the winter, and yet it séemeth that (in times past)
some of these Ilands also haue béene well replenished with wood, but now
they are without either trée or shrub, in stéed whereof they haue
plentie of heath, which is suffered to grow among them, rather thorough
their negligence, than that the soile of it selfe will not yéeld to
bring forth trées & bushes. For what store of such hath béene in times
past, the roots yet found and digged out of the ground doo yéeld
sufficient triall. Otes they haue verie plentifullie, but greater store
of barleie, wherof they make a nappie kind of drinke, and such indéed,
as will verie readilie cause a stranger to ouershoot himselfe. Howbeit
this may be vnto vs in lieu of a miracle, that although their drinke be
neuer so strong, & they themselues so vnmeasurable drinkers (as none are
If he speake all in truth.
more) yet it shall not easilie be séene (saith Hector) that there is
anie drunkard among them, either frantike, or mad man, dolt, or naturall
foole, meet to weare a cockescombe.
This vnmeasurable drinking of theirs is confessed also by Buchanan, who
noteth, that whensoeuer anie wine is brought vnto them from other
soiles, they take their parts thereof aboundantlie. He addeth moreouer,
how they haue an old bole (which they call S. Magnus bole, who first
preached Christ vnto them) of farre greater quantitie than common boles
are, and so great, that it may séeme to be reserued since the Lapithane
banket, onelie to quaffe and drinke in. And when anie bishop commeth
vnto them, they offer him this bole full of drinke, which if he be able
to drinke vp quite at one draught; then they assure themselues of good
lucke, and plentie after it. Neuerthelesse this excesse is not often
found in the common sort, whom penurie maketh to be more frugall; but in
their priests, and such as are of the richer calling. They succour
pirats also, and verie often exchange their vittels with their
commodities, rather for feare and want of power to resist (their Ilands
lieng so scattered) than for anie necessitie of such gains as they doo
get by those men: for in truth, they thinke themselues to haue little
need of other furniture than their owne soiles doo yéeld and offer vnto
them. This is also to be read of the inhabitants of these Ilands, that
ignorance of excesse is vnto the most part of them in stéed of physicke;
and labour and trauell a medicine for such few diseases as they are
molested and incombred withall.
In like sort they want venemous beasts, chéefelie such as doo delight in
hotter soile, and all kinds of ouglie creatures. Their ewes also are so
full of increase, that some doo vsuallie bring foorth two, three, or
foure lambes at once, whereby they account our anelings (which are such
as bring foorth but one at once) rather barren than to be kept for anie
gaine. As for wild and tame foules, they haue such plentie of them, that
the people there account them rather a burthen to their soile, than a
benefit to their tables: they haue also neat and gotes, whereby they
abound in white meat, as butter and cheese: wherein, next vnto fish, the
chéefe part of their sustenance dooth consist. There is also a bishop of
the Orchades, who hath his see in Pomona the chéefe of all the Ilands,
wherein also are two strong castels, and such hath béene the
superstition of the people here, that there is almost no one of them,
that hath not one church at the least dedicated to the mother of Christ.
Finallie, there is little vse of physicke in these quarters, lesse store
of éeles, and least of frogs. As for the horsses that are bred amongst
them, they are commonlie not much greater than asses, and yet to labour
and trauell, a man shall find verie few else-where, able to come neere,
much lesse to match with them, in holding out their iournies. The seas
about these Ilands are verie tempestuous, not onelie through strong
winds, and the influences of the heauens and stars; but by the contrarie
méetings and workings of the west ocean, which rageth so vehementlie in
the streicts, that no vessell is able to passe in safetie amongst them.
Some of these Ilands also are so small and low, that all the commoditie
which is to be reaped by anie of them, is scarselie sufficient to
susteine one or two men: and some of them so barren and full of rocks,
that they are nothing else but mosse or bare shingle. Wherefore onelie
thirtéene of them are inhabited and made account of, the rest being left
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vnto their sheepe and cattell. Of all these Ilands also Pomona is the
greatest, and therfore called the continent, which conteineth thirtie
miles in length, and is well replenished with people: for it hath twelue
parish churches, and one towne which the Danes (sometime lords of that
Kirkwa.
Iland) called Cracouia: but now it hight Kirkwa. There are also two
pretie holds, one belonging to the king, the other to the bishop: and
also a beautifull church, and much building betweene the two holds, and
about this church, which being taken as it were for two townes, the one
is called the kings and the other the bishops towne. All the whole Iland
is full of cliffes and promontories, whereby no small number of baies
and some hauens are producted.
There is also tin and lead to be found in six of these Iles, so good and
plentifullie as anie where else in Britaine. It lieth foure & twentie
miles from Cathnesse, being separated from the same by the Pictish sea:
wherein also lie certeine Ilands, as Stroma, foure miles from Cathnesse,
which albeit that it be but foure miles from Cathnesse, is not reputed
for anie of the Orchades. Going therefore from hence northward, we come
to the first Ile of the Orchades, called south Rauals, which is sixtéene
miles from Dunghilsbie, aliàs Dunachisbie, & that in two houres space,
such is the swiftnesse of the sea in that tract. This Ile is fiue miles
long, and hath a faire port called saint Margarets hauen. Then passe we
by two desert Iles, which lie towards the east, wherein nothing is found
but cattell: some call them the holmes, bicause they lie low, and are
good for nothing but grasse. On the northside lieth the Bur, and two
other holmes betweene the same & Pomona. From Bur, toward the west lie
thrée Iles, Sun, Flat, and Far: and beyond them Hoie and Vall, which
some accompt for two, and other but for one; bicause that in March and
September, the flats that lie betwéene them, doo séeme to ioine them
togither, after the tide is gone. This neuerthelesse is certeine, that
in this single or double Ile, which is ten miles in length, the highest
hilles are to be séene that are in all the Orchades. And as they lie
eight miles from Rauals, so are they two miles from Pomona, & from saint
Donats in Scotland full twentie miles, and on the north side of it lieth
the Brainse, in a narrow streict, as Buchanan dooth remember. And these
are the Iles which lie betweene Pomona and Cathnesse. As for the west
side of the continent, I find that it lieth open to the sea, without
either shelues, Ilands, or rocks appéering néere vnto it: but on the
east side thereof Cobesa dooth in maner ouershadow it. Siapinsa also an
Ile of six miles long, lieth within two miles of Cracouia, toward the
east, on the west side of Pomona lieth the Rouse of six miles in length:
and by east of that, the Eglisa, wherin (as they saie) their patrone S.
Magnus lieth interred. From hense southward lie the Vera, Gersa, and not
far off the Vester (which is fourescore miles from Hethland) Papa &
Stronza, which is also eightie miles from Hethland as is the Vester. In
the middest also of this tract lieth Far, or Fara, which is to saie,
faire Ile, in old English, faire eie: and within sight so well of
Hethland, as the Orchades (by reason of three insuperable rocks which
are apparant in the same) a verie poore Iland, and yet yearelie robbed
of such commodities as it hath by such Flemish and English fishermen as
passe by the coasts thereof in time of the yeare, to catch fish for the
prouision of their countries.
Next vnto this is the greatest of all the Hethlands, an Iland called the
Maine, sixtie miles in length, and sixteene in bredth, full of rocks,
and whose coasts are onelie inhabited, the innermost parts being left
vnto the foules of the aire, bicause of the barrennesse and
vnfruitfulnesse of the soile: yet of late some haue indeuoured to
impeople it, but with no successe correspondent to their desire.
Wherefore they returned to their former trades, making their chéefe
commoditie and yearelie gaine by fish, as aforetime. Ten miles from this
toward the north, lieth the Zeale, twentie miles in length, eight in
bredth, and so wild that it will suffer no creature to liue thereof,
that is not bred therein. Betwéene this Iland also and the Maine, are
other smaller Ilands to be found, as the Ling, Orne, Big, and Sanferre.
And from hense nine miles northward Vsta, twentie miles long, & six in
bredth, plaine, pleasant, but inuironed with a swift and terrible sea.
Betwéene this also and the Zeale, are the Vie, the Vre, and the Ling:
also towards the west, the two Skeues, Chalseie, Nordwade, Brase, and
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Mowse, on the west side lie the west Skeies, Rottia, Papa the lesse,
Wunned, Papa the more, Valla, Londra, Burra, Haura the more, Haura the
lesse, & in maner so manie holmes dispersed heere and there, whereof I
haue no notice. Some call these the Shetland, and some the Shotland
Iles. Buchanan nameth them in the third member of his diuision
Zelandine, and toward the end of his first booke seemeth to auouch, that
they liue in maner as doo the inhabitants of the Orchades: although not
in so ciuill wise, nor in such large measure and aboundance of diet in
their houses. He addeth moreouer, that their apparrell is after the
Germaine cut, comelie, but not so chargeable and costlie, and how they
raise their gaine by skins of beasts, as marterns, sheepe, oxen, and
gotes skins, and therevnto a kind of cloth which they weaue, and sell to
the merchants of Norwaie, togither with their butter, fish, either
salted or dried, and their traine oile, and exercise their trade of
fishing also in their vncerteine skewes, which they fetch out of
Norwaie.
Their speech is Gothish, and such of them as by their dealing with
forren merchants doo gather anie wealth, that will they verie often
bestow vpon the furniture of their houses. Their weights & measures are
after the Germaine maner, their countrie is verie healthie, and so
wholesome, that a man was found which had married a wife at one hundred
yeares of age, and was able to go out a fishing with his bote at one
hundred and fortie, and of late yéeres died of méere age, without anie
other disease. Dronkennesse is not heard of among them, and yet they
meet and make good chéere verie often. Neither doo I read of anie great
vse of flesh or foule there, although that some of their Ilands haue
plentie of both. Nor anie mention of corne growing in these parts, and
therefore in steed of bread they drie a kind of fish, which they beat in
morters to powder, & bake it in their ouens, vntill it be hard and drie.
Their fuell also is of such bones as the fish yéeldeth, that is taken on
their coasts: and yet they liue as themselues suppose in much felicitie,
thinking it a great péece of their happinesse to be so farre distant
from the wicked auarice, and cruell dealings of the more rich and ciuill
part of the world.
Herein also they are like vnto the Hirthiens, in that at one time of the
yeare, there commeth a priest vnto them out of the Orchades (vnto which
iurisdiction they doo belong) who baptiseth all such children, as haue
béene borne among them, since he last arriued, and hauing afterward
remained there for a two daies, he taketh his tithes of them (which they
prouide and paie with great scrupulositie in fish, for of other
commodities haue they none) and then returneth home againe, not without
boast of his troublesome voiage, except he watch his time. In these Iles
Amber.
also is great plentie of fine Amber to be had (as Hector saith) which is
producted by the working of the sea vpon those coasts: but more of this
elsewhere. This neuertheles is certeine, that these Ilands, with the
Orchades, were neuer perfectlie vnited to the crowne of Scotland, till
the mariage was made betwéene king Iames and the ladie Marie daughter to
Christierne king of Denmarke 1468, which Christierne at the birth of
their sonne Iames (afterward king of Scotland and called Iames the
fourth) resigned all his right and title whatsoeuer either he or his
ancestors either presently or hertofore had, might haue had, or herafter
may or should haue, vnto the aforesaid péeres, as appéereth by the
charter.
From these Shetland Iles, and vntill we come southwards to the Scarre,
which lieth in Buquhamnesse, I find no mention of anie Ile situat vpon
that coast, neither greatlie from thence, vntill we come at the Forth,
that leadeth vp to Sterling, neither thought we it safetie for vs to
search so farre as Thule, whence the most excellent brimstone commeth, &
thereto what store of Ilands lie vnder the more northerlie climats,
whose secret situations though partlie seene in my time, haue not yet
bin perfectlie reueled or discouered by anie, bicause of the great
aboundance of huge Ilands of ice that mooueth to and fro vpon their
shores, and sundrie perilous gulfes and indraughts of water, and for as
much as their knowlege doth not concerne our purpose, wherfore casting
about, we came at the last into the Firth or Forth, which some call the
Scotish sea, wherein we passe by seuen or eight such as they be, of
which the first called the Maie, the second Baas, and Garwie the third,
doo seeme to be inhabited. From these also holding on our course toward
England, we passe by another Ile, wherein Faux castell standeth, and
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this (so far as my skill serueth) is the last Iland of the Scotish side,
in compassing whereof I am not able to discerne, whether their flats and
shallowes, number of Ilands without name, confusion of situation, lacke
of true description, or mine owne ignorance hath troubled me most. No
meruell therefore that I haue béene so oft on ground among them. But
most ioifull am I that am come home againe: & although not by the Thames
mouth into my natiue citie (which taketh his name of Troie) yet into the
English dominion, where good interteinement is much more franke and
copious, and better harborough wherein to rest my wearie bones, and
refresh at ease our wetherbeaten carcasses.
The first Iland therefore which commeth to our sight, after we passed
Lindesfarne or Holie Iland.
Berwike, is that which was somtime called Lindesfarne, but now Holie
Iland, and conteineth eight miles; a place much honored among our
monasticall writers, bicause diuerse moonks and heremits did spend their
times therein. There was also the bishops see of Lindesfarne for a long
season, which afterward was translated to Chester in the stréet, &
finallie to Duresme, Dunelme, or Durham. It was first erected by Oswald,
wherein he placed Aidanus the learned Scotish moonke, who came hither
out of the Ile called Hij, whereof Beda speaking in the third chapter of
his third booke, noteth, that although the said Hij belong to the kings
of Northumberland, by reason of situation & néerenesse to the coast; yet
the Picts appointed the bishops of the same, and gaue the Ile with the
see it selfe to such Scotish moonks as they liked, bicause that by their
preaching they first receiued the faith. But to returne to Lindesfarne.
After Aidan departed this life, Finanus finished and builded the whole
church with sawed timber of oke, after the maner of his countrie, which
when Theodorus the archbishop of Canturburie had dedicated, Edbert the
bishop did couer ouer with lead.
Farne.
Next vnto this is the Ile of Farne, and herein is a place of defense so
far as I remember, and so great store of egs laid there by diuerse kinds
of wildfoule in time of the yeare, that a man shall hardlie run for a
wager on the plaine ground without the breach of manie, before his race
be finished. About Farne also lie certeine Iles greater than Farne it
selfe, but void of inhabitants; and in these also is great store of
Puffins.
puffins, graie as duckes, and without coloured fethers, sauing that they
haue a white ring round about their necks. There is moreouer another
Saint Cuthberts foules.
bird, which the people call saint Cuthberts foules, a verie tame and
gentle creature, and easie to be taken. After this we came to the Cocket
Iland; so called, bicause it lieth ouer against the fall of Cocket
water. Herein is a veine of meane seacole, which the people dig out of
the shore at the low water; and in this Iland dwelled one Henrie
sometime a famous heremite, who (as his life declareth) came of the
Danish race. And from thence vntill we came vnto the coast of Norffolke
I saw no more Ilands.
Being therfore past S. Edmunds point, we found a litle Ile ouer against
the fall of the water that commeth from Holkham, & likewise another ouer
against the Claie, before we came at Waburne hope: the third also in
Yarmouth riuer ouer against Bradwell, a towne in low or little England,
whereof also I must néeds saie somewhat, bicause it is in maner an
Iland, and as I gesse either hath béene or may be one: for the brodest
place of the strict land that leadeth to the same, is little aboue a
quarter of a mile, which against the raging waues of the sea can make
Little England.
but small resistance. Little England or low England therefore is about
eight miles in length and foure in bredth, verie well replenished with
townes, as Fristan, Burgh castell, Olton, Flixton, Lestoft, Gunton,
Blundston, Corton, Lownd, Ashebie, Hoxton, Belton, Bradwell, and
Gorleston, and beside this it is verie fruitfull and indued with all
commodities.
Going forward from hence, by the Estonnesse (almost an Iland) I saw a
small parcell cut from the maine in Orford hauen, the Langerstone in
Orwell mouth, & two péeces or Islets at Cattiwade bridge; and then
Merseie.
casting about vnto the Colne, we beheld Merseie which is a pretie Iland,
well furnished with wood. It was sometime a great receptacle for the
Danes when they inuaded England; howbeit at this present it hath beside
two decaied blockehouses, two parish churches, of which one is called
east Merseie, the other west Merseie, and both vnder the archdeacon of
Foulnesse.
Colchester, as parcell of his iurisdiction. Foulenesse is an Ile void of
[Page 78]
wood, and yet well replenished with verie good grasse for neat and
sheepe, whereof the inhabitants haue great plentie: there is also a
parish church, and albeit that it stand somewhat distant from the shore,
yet at a dead low water a man may (as they saie) ride thereto if he be
skilfull of the causie; it is vnder the iurisdiction of London. And at
this present master William Tabor bacheler of diuinitie and archdeacon
of Essex hath it vnder his iurisdiction & regiment, by the surrender of
maister Iohn Walker doctor also of diuinitie, who liued at such time as
I first attempted to commit this booke to the impression.
In Maldon water are in like sort thrée Ilands inuironed all with salt
Osithe.
Northeie.
streames, as saint Osithes, Northeie, and another (after a mersh) that
beareth no name so far as I remember. On the right hand also as we went
Ramseie.
Reie.
toward the sea againe, we saw Ramseie Ile, or rather a Peninsula or
Biland, & likewise the Reie, in which is a chappell of saint Peter. And
then coasting vpon the mouth of the Bourne, we saw the Wallot Ile and
his mates, whereof two lie by east Wallot, and the fourth is Foulnesse,
except I be deceiued, for here my memorie faileth me on the one side,
and information on the other, I meane concerning the placing of
Foulenesse. But to procéed. After this, and being entered into the
Thames mouth, I find no Iland of anie name, except you accompt Rochford
hundred for one, whereof I haue no mind to intreat, more than of
Crowland, Mersland, Elie, and the rest, that are framed by the ouze.
Andredeseie in Trent, so called of a church there dedicated to saint
Andrew, and Auon (two noble riuers hereafter to be described) sith I
touch onelie those that are inuironed with the sea or salt water round
Canwaie.
about, as we may see in the Canwaie Iles, which some call marshes
onelie, and liken them to an ipocras bag, some to a vice, scrue, or wide
sléeue, bicause they are verie small at the east end, and large at west.
The salt rilles also that crosse the same doo so separat the one of them
from the other, that they resemble the slope course of the cutting part
of a scrue or gimlet, in verie perfect maner, if a man doo imagine
himselfe to looke downe from the top of the mast vpon them. Betwéene
these, moreouer and the Leigh towne lieth another litle Ile or Holme,
whose name is to me vnknowne. Certes I would haue gone to land and
viewed these parcels as they laie, or at the least haue sailed round
about them by the whole hauen, which may easilie be doone at an high
water: but for as much as a perrie of wind (scarse comparable to the
makerell gale, whereof Iohn Anele of Calis one of the best seamen that
England euer bred for his skill in the narow seas was woont to talke)
caught hold of our sailes, & caried vs forth the right waie toward
London, I could not tarie to sée what things were hereabouts. Thus much
therefore of our Ilands, & so much may well suffice where more cannot be
had.
Hauing (as you haue séene) attempted to set downe a full discourse of
all the Ilands, that are situat vpon the coast of Britaine, and finding
the successe not correspondent to mine intent, it hath caused me
somewhat to restreine my purpose in this description also of our riuers.
For whereas I intended at the first to haue written at large, of the
number, situation, names, quantities, townes, villages, castels,
mounteines, fresh waters, plashes or lakes, salt waters, and other
commodities of the aforesaid Iles, mine expectation of information from
all parts of England, was so deceiued in the end, that I was faine at
last onelie to leane to that which I knew my selfe either by reading, or
such other helpe as I had alreadie purchased and gotten of the same. And
euen so it happeneth in this my tractation of waters, of whose heads,
courses, length, bredth, depth of chanell (for burden) ebs, flowings,
and falles, I had thought to haue made a perfect description vnder the
report also of an imagined course taken by them all. But now for want of
instruction, which hath béene largelie promised, & slacklie perfourmed,
and other sudden and iniurious deniall of helpe voluntarilie offered,
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without occasion giuen on my part, I must needs content my selfe with
such obseruations as I haue either obteined by mine owne experience, or
gathered from time to time out of other mens writings: whereby the full
discourse of the whole is vtterlie cut off, and in steed of the same a
mangled rehearsall of the residue set downe and left in memorie.
Wherefore I beséech your honour to pardon this imperfection and
rudenesse of my labour, which notwithstanding is not altogither in
vaine, sith my errors maie prooue a spurre vnto the better skilled,
either to correct or inlarge where occasion serueth, or at the leastwise
to take in hand a more absolute péece of worke, as better direction
shall incourage them thereto. The entrance and beginning of euerie thing
is the hardest; and he that beginneth well, hath atchiued halfe his
purpose. The ice (my lord) is broken, and from hencefoorth it will be
more easie for such as shall come after to wade through with the rest,
sith "Facile est inuentis addere;" and to continue and finish, is not so
great a matter in building, as to attempt and laie the foundation or
platforme of anie noble péece of workmanship, though it be but rudelie
Thamesis.
handled. But to my purpose. As I began at the Thames in my description
of Ilands, so will I now doo the like with that of famous riuers; making
mine entrie at the said riuer it selfe, of whose founteine some men make
as much adoo, as in time past of the true head of Nilus, which, till of
late (if it be yet descried) was neuer found: or the Tanais, whose
originall was neuer knowne, nor shall be: for whilest one placeth it
here, another there; there are none at all that deale with it exactlie.
Wherefore leaning to such mens writings as haue of set purpose sought
out the spring of the Thames; I affirme that this famous streame hath
his head or beginning out of the side of an hill, standing in the
plaines of Cotswold, about one mile from Tetburie, néere vnto the Fosse
(an high waie so called of old) where it was sometime named Isis, or the
Ouse, although diuerse doo ignorantlie call it the Thames euen there,
rather of a foolish custome than anie skill, bicause they either neglect
or vtterlie are ignorant how it was named at the first. From hence it
runneth directlie toward the east (as all good riuers should) and
Corinium.
méeteth with the Cirne or Churne, (a brooke called in Latine Corinium)
whereof Cirncester towne (by which it commeth) doth take the
denomination.
From hence it hasteth vnto Créekelade, aliàs Crekanford, Lechlade,
Radcotebridge, Newbridge, and Eouesham, receiuing by the waie an infinit
sort of small streames, brookes, beckes, waters, and rundels: and here
on this side of the towne diuideth it selfe into two courses, of which
the one goeth straight to Botleie and Hinkseie, the other by Godstow, a
village not farre off. This latter spreadeth it selfe also for a while
into sundrie smaller branches, which run not farre yer they be reunited,
and then beclipping sundrie pleasant meadowes, it passeth at length by
Oxford, of some supposed rather to be called Ouseford of this riuer,
Charwell.
where it meeteth with the Charwell, and a litle from whence the
originall branches doo ioine and go togither by Abbandune (aliàs Sensham
or Abington as we call it) although no part of it at the first came so
néere the towne as it doth now, till a branch thereof was led thither
Some write, that the maine streame was brought thither
from which ranne before betweene Andredeseie and Culenham. the maine
streame, thorough the industrie of the moonks, as (beside the testimonie
of old records thereof yet extant to be séene) by the decaie of Cair
Dour, now Dorchester it selfe, sometime the throughfare from Wales and
the west countrie to London, which insued vpon this fact, is easie to be
seene. From hence it goeth to Dorchester, and so to Thame, where ioining
with a riuer of the same denomination, it looseth the name of Isis or
Ouse (whereof Ouseneie at Oxford is producted) and from thenceforth is
called Thamesis. From Thame it goeth to Wallingford, and so to Reding,
Pontium.
which in time past, of the number of bridges there, was called Pontium;
albeit that the English name doth rather proceed from Rhe, or Ree, the
Saint Marie ouer Rhee.
Saxon word for a water-course or riuer; which maie be séene in Ouerée,
or Sutherée, for ouer the Ree, or south of the Rhee, as to the skilfull
doth readilie appéere; yet some hold (and not altogither against
probabilitie and likelihood) that the word Sutherée is so called of
Sudrijc, to wit, the south kingdome, wherevnto in part the Thames is a
bound. But that holdeth not in denomination, either of the said church
or name of the foresaid countie. Other affirme likewise, that Reding is
so called of the Greeke word (ῥεω) which is to ouerflowe.
Certes, as neither of these coniectures are to be contemned, so the last
[Page 80]
cōmeth most neere to mine aid, who affirme, that not onelie the
course of euerie water it selfe, but also his ouerflowing was in time
past called Rhe, by such Saxons as inhabited in this Iland: and euen to
this daie in Essex I haue oft obserued, that when the lower grounds by
rage of water haue béene ouerflowen, the people beholding the same, haue
said; All is on a Rhe, as if they should haue said; All is now a riuer,
albeit the word Riuer be deriued from the French, and borrowed by them
from the Latins, but not without corruption, as it was brought vnto
them. I will not here giue notice how farre they are deceiued, which
call the aforesaid church by the name of S. Marie Auderies, or S. Marie
ouer Isis, or Ise: but I will procéed with the course of this noble
streame, which, howsoeuer these matters stand after it hath passed by
Kenet.
Reding, & there receiued the Kenet, which commeth from the hilles that
Thetis.
lie west of Marleborough (& then the Thetis, commonlie called the Tide
that commeth from Thetisford) hieth to Sudlington otherwise called
Maidenhead, and so to Windleshore (or Windsore) Eaton, and then to
Chertseie, where Erkenwald bishop of London sometime builded a religious
house or cell, as I doo read.
From Chertseie it hasteth directlie vnto Stanes, and receiuing an other
Cole.
streame by the waie, called the Cole (wherevpon Colbrooke standeth) it
goeth by Kingstone, Shene, Sion and Brentford or Bregentford, where it
méeteth the Brane or the Brene (another brooke descending from Edgworth)
whose name signifieth a frog, in the Brittish speach. Vpon this also sir
John Thin had sometime a statelie house, with a maruellous prouision to
inclose and reteine such fish as should come about the same. From
Brene.
Brentfoord it passeth by Mortlach, Putneie, Fulham, Batterseie,
Chelseie, Lambeth, and so to London. Finallie going from thence vnto the
sea, it taketh the Lée with it by the waie vpon the coast of Essex, and
Darwent.
another that commeth from Abreche not far off, and the Darnt vpon Kent
side, which riseth néere to Tanrige, and commeth by Shoreham, vnto
Craie.
Derntford, wherevnto the Craie falleth. And last of all the Medwaie a
notable riuer (in mine opinion) which watereth all the south and
southwest part of Kent, and whose description shall insue.
Hauing in this maner bréefelie touched this noble riuer, and such
brookes as fall into the same; I will now adde a particular description
of each of these last by themselues, whereby their courses also shall be
seuerallie described to the satisfaction of the studious. But yer I take
the same in hand, I will insert a word or two of the commodities of the
said riuer, which I will performe with so much breuitie as is possible.
Héereby also finding out his whole tract and course from the head to the
fall thereof into the sea. It appeareth euidentlie that the length
thereof is at the least, one hundreth and eightie miles, if it be
measured by the iourneies of the land. And as it is in course, the
longest of the thrée famous riuers of this Ile, so it is nothing
inferiour vnto them in aboundance of all kind of fish, whereof it is
hard to saie, which of the three haue either most plentie, or greatest
varietie, if the circumstances be duelie weighed. What some other write
of the riuers of their countries it skilleth not, neither will I (as
diuerse doo) inuent strange things of this noble streame, therewith to
nobilitate and make it more honorable: but this will I in plaine termes
affirme, that it neither swalloweth vp bastards of the Celtish brood, or
casteth vp the right begotten that are throwne in without hurt into
their mothers lap, as Politian fableth of the Rhene, Epistolarum lib. 8.
epi. 6. nor yéeldeth clots of gold as the Tagus dooth: but an infinit
plentie of excellent, swéet and pleasant fish, wherewith such as inhabit
néere vnto hir bankes are fed and fullie nourished.
Salmons.
What should I speake of the fat and swéet salmons, dailie taken in this
streame, and that in such plentie (after the time of the smelt be past)
as no riuer in Europa is able to excéed it. What store also of barbels,
trouts, cheuins, pearches, smelts, breames, roches, daces, gudgings,
flounders, shrimps, &c: are commonlie to be had therein, I refer me to
them that know by experience better than I, by reason of their dailie
trade of fishing in the same. And albeit it seemeth from time to time,
to be as it were defrauded in sundrie wise of these hir large
commodities, by the insatiable auarice of the fishermen, yet this famous
riuer complaineth commonlie of no want, but the more it looseth at one
time, the more it yéeldeth at another. Onelie in carps it séemeth to be
[Page 81]
Carps a fish late brought into England
and later into the Thames.
scant, sith it is not long since that kind of fish was brought ouer into
England, and but of late to speake of into this streame, by the violent
rage of sundrie landflouds, that brake open the heads and dams of diuers
gentlemens ponds, by which means it became somewhat partaker also of
this said commoditie, whereof earst it had no portion that I could euer
heare. Oh that this riuer might be spared but euen one yeare from nets,
&c! But alas then should manie a poore man be vndoone. In the meane time
it is lamentable to see, how it is and hath béene choked of late with
sands and shelues, through the penning and wresting of the course of the
water for commodities sake. But as this is an inconuenience easilie
remedied, if good order were taken for the redresse thereof: so now, the
fine or prise set vpon the ballasse sometime freelie giuen to the
merchants by patent, euen vnto the lands end (Iusques au poinct) will be
another cause of harme vnto this noble streame, and all through an
aduantage taken at the want of an (i) in the word ponct: which grew
through an error committed by an English notarie vnskilfull in the
French toong, wherein that patent was granted.
Furthermore, the said riuer floweth and filleth all his chanels twise in
the daie and night, that is in euerie twelue houres once; and this
ebbing & flowing, holdeth on for the space of seauentie miles, within
the maine land: the streame or tide being alwaies highest at London,
when the moone dooth exactlie touch the northeast and south or west
points of the heauens, of which one is visible, the other vnder the
earth, and not subiect to our sight. These tides also differ in their
times, each one comming latter than other, by so manie minuts as passe
yer the reuolution and naturall course of the heauens doo reduce, and
bring about the said planet vnto those hir former places: whereby the 36
The iust distāce betwéene one tide and another.
common difference betwéene one tide and another, is found to consist of
twentie foure minuts, which wanteth but twelue of an whole houre in
foure and twentie, as experience dooth confirme. In like sort we sée by
dailie triall, that each tide is not of equall heigth and greatnesse:
for at the full and change of the moone we haue the greatest flouds, and
such is their ordinarie course, that as they diminish from their changes
and fuls, vnto the first and last quarters; so afterwards they increase
againe, vntill they come to the full and change. Sometimes also they
rise so high (if the wind be at the north or northeast, which bringeth
in the water with more vehemencie, bicause the tide which filleth the
chanell, commeth from Scotland ward) that the Thames ouerfloweth hir
banks néere vnto London: which hapneth especiallie in the fuls and
changes of Januarie and Februarie, wherein the lower grounds are of
custome soonest drowned. This order of flowing in like sort is
perpetuall, so that when the moone is vpon the southwest and north of
points, then is the water by London at the highest: neither doo the
tides alter, except some rough winds out of the west or southwest doo
The streame oft checked in hir entrance into the land.
kéepe backe and checke the streame in his entrance, as the east and
northeast do hasten the comming in thereof, or else some other
extraordinarie occasion, put by the ordinarie course of the northerne
seas, which fill the said riuer by their naturall returne and flowing.
And that both these doo happen eft among, I refer me to such as haue not
sildome obserued it, as also the sensible chopping in of thrée or foure
tides in one naturall daie, wherof the vnskilfull doo descant manie
things.
But how so euer these small matters doo fall out, and how often soeuer
this course of the streame doth happen to be disturbed; yet at two
seuerall times of the age of the moone, the waters returne to their
naturall course and limits of time exactlie. Polydore saith, that this
riuer is seldome increased or rather neuer ouerfloweth hir banks by
landflouds: but he is herein verie much deceiued, as it shalbe more
apparentlie séene hereafter. For the more that this riuer is put by of
hir right course, the more the water must of necessitie swell with the
white waters which run downe from the land: bicause the passage cannot
be so swift and readie in the winding as in the streight course. These
landflouds also doo greatlie straine the finesse of the streame, in so
much that after a great landfloud, you shall take haddocks with your
hands beneath the bridge, as they flote aloft vpon the water, whose eies
are so blinded with the thicknesse of that element, that they cannot see
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where to become, and make shift to saue themselues before death take
hold of them. Otherwise the water of it selfe is verie cléere, and in
comparison next vnto that of the sea, which is most subtile and pure of
all other; as that of great riuers is most excellent, in comparison of
smaller brookes: although Aristotle will haue the salt water to be most
grosse, bicause a ship will beare a greater burden on the sea than on
the fresh water; and an eg sinke in this that swimmeth on the other. But
he may easilie be answered by the quantitie of roome and aboundance of
waters in the sea; whereby it becommeth of more force to susteine such
vessels as are committed to the same, and whervnto the greatest riuers
(God wot) are nothing comparable. I would here make mention of sundrie
London bridge.
bridges placed ouer this noble streame, of which that of London is most
chieflie to be commended, for it is in maner a cōtinuall street, well
replenished with large and statelie houses on both sides, and situat
vpon twentie arches, whereof ech one is made of excellent free squared
stone, euerie of them being thréescore foot in height, and full twentie
in distance one from another, as I haue often viewed.
In like maner I could intreat of the infinit number of swans dailie to be séene
2000 boates vpon the Thames
and 3000 poore mē mainteined by
the same whose gaines come in
most plentifullie in the tearme time.
vpon this riuer, the two thousand wherries and small boats, wherby three thousand
poore watermen are mainteined, through the cariage and recariage of such
persons as passe or repasse, from time to time vpon the same: beside
those huge tideboats, tiltbotes, and barges, which either carrie
passengers, or bring necessarie prouision from all quarters of
Oxfordshire, Barkeshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire, Herfordshire,
Midlesex, Essex, Surrie, and Kent, vnto the citie of London. But for
somuch as these things are to be repeated againe in the particular
description of London, annexed to his card; I surceasse at this time to
speake anie more of them here, as not lingering but hasting to performe
my promise made euen now, not yet forgotten, and in performance whereof
I thinke it best to resume the description of this noble riuer againe
into my hands, and in adding whatsoeuer is before omitted, to deliuer a
full and perfect demonstration of his course. How and where the said
streame ariseth, is alreadie & with sufficiencie set downe, noting the
place to be within a mile of Tetburie, whereof some doo vtterlie
mislike, bicause that rill in summer drouths is oft so drie, that there
is little or no water at all séene running aboue ground in the same.
Isis.
For this cause therefore manie affirme the verie head of Isis to come
from the poole aboue Kemble. Other confound it with the head of the
Cirne or Chirne, called in Latine Corinium that riseth aboue Coberleie.
For my part I follow Leland, as he dooth the moonke of Malmesburie,
which wrote the historie intituled Eulogium historiarum, who searched
the same of set purpose, and pronounced with Leland, although at this
present that course be verie small, and choked vp (as I heare) with
grauell and sand. Procéeding therefore from the head, it first of all
Couus.
receiueth the Kemble water called the Coue, which riseth aboue Kemble
towne, goeth by Kemble it selfe vnto Poole and Somerford, and then
(accompanieth the Thames) vnto Canes, Ashton, Canes, and Howston,
holding on in one chanell vntill they méet with the Chirne, the next of
all to be described.
Corinium.
The Chirne is a faire water arising out of the ground aboue Coberleie,
from whence it runneth to Cowleie, Cowlesburne, Randcome, and so into
the Isis on the left side aboue Crekelade. These thrée waters being thus
vnited and brought into one chanell, within a little space of the head
of Isis, it runneth on by Crekelade, beneath which towne it receiueth
Rhe.
the Rhe, descending from Elcombe, Escot, Redburne, Widhill, & at the
fall into Isis, or not far off ioineth with another that runneth west of
Purton by Braden forrest, &c. Next of all our Isis méeteth with the
Amneie.
Amneie on the left hand, which comming from aboue Holie roode Amneie,
runneth by Downe Amneie, and finallie into the Isis a little aboue
Iseie. In like sort I read of another that méeteth withall on the right
hand aboue Iseie also, which so far as I can call to remembrance,
commeth from about Drifield and falleth so into our Isis, that they run
as one vntill they come at the Colne, although not so nakedlie and
without helpe, but that in this voiage, the maine streame dooth crosse
one water that descendeth from Swindon, and going also by Stratton
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toward Seuingham, is it selfe increased with two rils by the waie,
whereof one commeth from Liddenton by Wambreie, as I haue béene
informed.
Colneius, Colineus, or Colunus.
The Colne is a faire riuer rising by north neere to Witchington, & from
thence goeth to Shiptons, Compton Abdale, Wittenton, Parneworth, Colne
Deanes, and Colne Rogers, Winston, Biberie, Colne Alens, Quenington,
Faireford, and west of Lachelade into the riuer Isis, which hereabout on
the southside also taketh in another, whereof I find this remembrance.
The Isis being once past Seuingham, crosseth a brooke from southest that
mounteth about Ashbirie, and receiuing a rill from bywest (that commeth
from Hinton) beneath Shrineham, it afterward so diuideth it selfe, that
the armes therof include Inglesham, and by reason that it falleth into
the Isis at two seuerall places, there is a plesant Iland producted,
whereof let this suffice.
Being past Lechelade a mile,Lecusor Leche.
it runneth to saint Johns bridge, &
thereabout méeteth with the Leche on the left hand. This brooke, whereof
Lechlade taketh the name (a towne wherevnto one péece of an old
vniuersitie is ascribed, which it did neuer possesse, more than
Crekelade did the other) riseth east of Hampnet, frō whence it goeth
to north Lech, Estenton, Anlesworth, east Lech, south Thorpe, Farendon,
& so into the Isis. From hence this famous water goeth by Kenskot toward
Radcote bridge (taking in the rill that riseth in an od péece of
Barkeshire, and runneth by Langford) and being past the said bridge (now
notable through a conspiracie made there sometimes by sundrie barons
against the estate) it is not long yer it crosse two other waters, both
of them descending from another od parcell of the said countie, whereof
I haue this note giuen me for my further information. There are two fals
of water into Isis beneath Radcote bridge, wherof the one commeth from
Shilton in Barkeshire by Arescote, blacke Burton and Clarrefield. The
other also riseth in the same péece, and runneth by Brisenorton vnto
Bampton, and there receiuing an armelet from the first that breake off
at blacke Burton, it is not long yer they fall into Isis, and leaue a
pretie Iland. After these confluences, the maine course of
Winrush.
the streame hasteth by Shifford to Newbridge, where it ioineth with the
Winrush. The Winrush riseth aboue Shieburne in Glocestershire, from
whence it goeth to Winrush, & cōming by Barrington, Burford,
Widbrooke, Swinbecke castell, Witneie, Duckington, Cockthorpe, Stanlake,
it méeteth with the Isis west by south of Northmore. From hence it goeth
beneath Stanton, Hartingcourt and Ensham, betwéene which and Cassinton,
Briwerus.
it receiueth (as Leland calleth it) the Bruerne water.
It riseth aboue Limington, and going to Norton in the Marsh, and through
a patch of Worcestershire vnto Euenlode, betweene it and the foure
Comus.
shirestones, it taketh in a rill called Come, comming by the long and
the little Comptons. After this also it goeth by Bradwell, Odington, and
Rolrich.
so to Bleddenton, aboue which towne it taketh in the Rolrich water that
issueth at two heads, in the hils that lie by west of little Rolrich,
and ioine aboue Kenkeham, and Church hill. From thence also it goeth
vnto Bruerne, Shipton vnderwood, Ascot, Short hamton, Chorleburie,
Corneburie parke, Stonfield, Longcombe, and southeast of Woodstocke
Enis.
parke, taketh in the Enis, that riseth aboue Emstone, and goeth to
Ciddington, Glimton, Wotton (where it is increased with a rill that
runneth thither from stéeple Barton, by the Béechin trée) Woodstocke,
Blaidon, so that after this confluence, the said Enis runneth to
Cassinton, and so into the Isis, which goeth from hence to Oxford, and
there receiueth the Charwell, now presentlie to be described.
Charwell.
The head of Charwell is in Northamptonshire, where it riseth out of a
little poole, by Charleton village, seuen miles aboue Banberie
northeast, and there it issueth so fast at the verie surge, that it
groweth into a pretie streame, in maner out of hand. Soone after also
Bure.
it taketh in a rillet called the Bure, which falleth into it, about
Otmere side: but forasmuch as it riseth by Bincester, the whole course
therof is not aboue foure miles, and therefore cannot be great. A friend
of mine prosecuting the rest of this description reporteth thereof as
followeth. Before the Charwell commeth into Oxfordshire, it receiueth the
Culen.
Culen, which falleth into the same, a little aboue Edgcote, and so
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descending toward Wardington, it méeteth with another comming from by
north west, betweene Wardington and Cropreadie. At Banberie also it
Come.
méeteth with the Come (which falleth from fennie Conton by Farneboro,
and afterwards going by kings Sutton, not far from Aine, it receiueth
the discharge of diuerse rillets, in one bottome before it come at
Clifton. The said water therfore ingendred of so manie brookelets,
Ocus.
consisteth chiefelie of two, whereof the most southerlie called Oke,
commeth from Oke Norton, by Witchington or Wiggington, and the Berfords;
and carieng a few blind rils withall, dooth méet with the other that
falleth from by northwest into the same, within a mile of Charwell.
That other (as I coniecture) is increased of thrée waters, wherof each
Tudo.
one hath his seuerall name. The first of them therefore hight Tudo,
which comming betwéene Epwell and the Lée by Toddington, ioineth about
Ornus.
Broughton with the second that runneth from Horneton, named Ornus, as I
gesse. The last falleth into the Tude or Tudelake, beneath Broughton;
and for that it riseth not far from Sotteswell in Warwikeshire, some are
Sotbrooke.
of the opinion, that it is to be called Sotbrooke. The next water that
méeteth without Charwell beneath Clifton commeth from about Croughton,
Souarus.
Sowar.
and after this is the Sowar or Swere, that riseth north of Michaell Tew,
Burus.
and runneth by nether Wotton. The last of all is the Reie aliàs Bure,
whose head is not far aboue Burcester, aliàs Bincester, and Burncester:
and from whence it goeth by Burecester to Merton, Charleton, Fencote,
Addington, Noke, Islip, and so into Charwell, that holdeth on his course
after this augmentation of the waters, betwéene Wood and Water Eton, to
Marston, and the east bridge of Oxford by Magdalene college, and so
beneath the south bridge into our aforesaid Isis.
Middest of England whereabouts.
In describing this riuer, this one thing (right honorable) is come vnto
my mind, touching the center and nauill as it were of England. Certes
there is an hillie plot of ground in Helledon parish, not far from
Danberie, where a man maie stand and behold the heads of thrée notable
riuers, whose waters, and those of such as fall into them, doo
abundantlie serue the greatest part of England on this side of the
Humber. The first of these waters is the Charwell, alreadie described.
The second is the Leme that goeth westward into the fourth Auon. And the
third is the head of the Nene or fift Auon it selfe, of whose courses
there is no card but doth make sufficient mention; and therefore your
honour maie behold in the same how they doo coast the countrie, and also
measure by compasses how this plot lieth in respect of all the rest,
contrarie to common iudgement, which maketh Northampton to be the
middest and center of our countrie.
But to go forward with my description of the Ouse, which being past
Oxford goeth to Iflie, Kennington, Sanford, Rodleie, Newnham, and so to
Abington, som time called Sensham, without increase, where it receiueth
Ocus.
the Oche, otherwise called the Coche, a little beneath S. Helens, which
runneth thither of two brooklets, as I take it, whereof one commeth from
Compton, out of the vale and west of the hill of the White horsse, the
other from Kings Letcombe, and Wantage in Barkshire, and in one chanell,
entreth into the same, vpon the right side of his course. From Abington
Arun.
likewise (taking the Arun withall southwest of Sutton Courtneie) it
goeth by Appleford, long Wittenham, Clifton, Wittenham the lesse, &
beneath Dorchester, taketh in the Thame water, from whence the Isis
loseth the preheminence of the whole denomination of this riuer, and is
contented to impart the same with the Thame, so that by the coniunction
of these two waters Thamesis is producted, and that name continued euen
vnto the sea.
Thame.
Thame riuer riseth in the easterlie parts of Chilterne hils, towards
Penleie parke, at a towne called Tring west of the said parke, which is
seauen miles from the stone bridge, that is betweene Querendon and
Ailsburie (after the course of the water) as Leland hath set downe.
Running therefore by long Merston, and Puttenham, Hucket, and Bearton,
it receiueth soone after a rill that commeth by Querendon from Hardwike,
and yer long an other on the other side that riseth aboue Windouer in
the Chilterne, and passing by Halton, Weston, Turrill, Broughton, and
Ailsburie, it falleth into the Tame west of the said towne (except my
memorie doo faile me.) From this confluence the Tame goeth by Ethorpe,
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the Winchingtons, Coddington, Chersleie, Notleie abbeie: and comming
almost to Tame, it receiueth one water from southeast aboue the said
towne, and another also from the same quarter beneath the towne; so that
Tame standeth inuironed vpon thrée sides with thrée seuerall waters, as
maie be easilie séene. The first of these commeth from the Chiltern east
of Below or Bledlow, from whence it goeth to Hinton, Horsenden,
Kingseie, Towseie, and so into the Tame. The other descendeth also from
the Chilterne, and going by Chinner, Crowell, Siddenham, and Tame parke,
it falleth in the end into Tame water, and then they procéed togither as
one by Shabbington, Ricot parke, Dracot, Waterstoke, Milton, Cuddesdon,
and Chiselton. Here also it taketh in another water from by-east, whose
head commeth from Chilterne hils, not farre from Stocking church, in the
waie from Oxford to London. From whence it runneth to Weston (and
méeting beneath Cuxham with Watlington rill) it goeth onto Chalgraue,
Stadham, and so into the Tame. From hence our streame of Thame runneth
to Newenton, Draton, Dorchester (sometime a bishops see, and a noble
citie) and so into the Thames, which hasteth in like sort to Bensington,
Blauius.
Crowmarsh, or Wallingford, where it receiueth the Blaue, descending from
Blaueburg, now Blewberie, as I learne.
Thus haue I brought the Thames vnto Wallingford, situate in the vale of
White horsse, that runneth a long therby. From hence it goeth by
Newenham, north Stoke, south Stoke, Goring, Bassilden, Pangburne, where
it meeteth with a water that commeth from about Hamsted Norris, runneth
by Frizelham, Buckelburie, Stanford, Bradfeld, Tidmarsh and Pangburne.
After which confluence it goeth on betweene Mapledorham and Purleie, to
Cauersham, and Cauersham manour, and a little beneath receiueth the
Kenet that commeth thereinto from Reading.
Cenethus.
The Kenet riseth aboue Ouerton 5 or 6 miles west of Marleborow, or
Marlingsborow, as some call it; & then going by Fifeld, Clatfor, Maulon,
& Preshute, vnto Marleburie: it holdeth on in like order to Ramsburie,
and northwest of little Cote, taketh in a water by north descending from
the hilles aboue Alburne chase west of Alburne town. Thence it runneth
to little Cote, Charnhamstréet, & beneth Charnhamstréet it crosseth the
Bedwiine.
Chalkeburne.
Bedwin, which (taking the Chalkburne rill withall) commeth from great
Bedwijne, & at Hungerford also two other in one botom somewhat beneath
the towne. From hence it goeth to Auington, Kinburie, Hamsted marshall,
Lamburne.
Euburne, Newberie; and beneath this towne, taketh in the Lamburne water
that commeth by Isberie, Egerston, the Sheffords, Westford, Boxford,
Donington castell, and Shaw. From Newberie it goeth to Thatcham,
Alburnus.
Wolhampton, Aldermaston, a little aboue which village it receiueth the
Alburne, another brooke increased with sundrie rils: and thus going on
to Padworth, Oston, and Michaell, it commeth at last to Reading, where
(as I said) it ioineth with the Thames, and so they go forward as one by
Sonning to Shiplake, and there on the east side receiue the Loddon that
commeth downe thither from the south, as by his course appéereth.
Lodunus.
The Loddon riseth in Hamshire betwéene west Shirburne and Wooton toward
the southwest, afterward directing his course toward the northwest,
thorough the Vine, it passeth at the last by Bramlie, and thorough a
peece of Wiltshire, to Stradfield, Swallowfield, Arberfield, Loddon
bridge, leauing a patch of Wiltshire on the right hand (as I haue béene
informed.) This Loddon not far from Turges towne receiueth two waters in
one bottome, whereof the westerlie called Basing water, commeth from
Basingstoke, and thorough a parke vnto the aforesaid place.
The other descendeth of two heads from Mapledour well, and goeth by
Skewes, Newenham, Rotherwijc, and yer it come at Hartlie, ioineth with
the Basing water, from whence they go togither to Turges, where they
méet with the Loddon (as I haue said alreadie.) The next streame toward
Ditis vadum.
the south is called Ditford brooke. It riseth not farre from Vpton, goeth
Ikelus.
by Gruell, and beneath Wharnborow castell receiueth the Ikell (comming
from a parke of the same denomination) from whence they go togither by
Maddingleie vnto Swalowfield, and so into the Loddon. In this voiage
[Page 86]
Elueius.
also the Loddon méeteth with the Elwie or Elueie that commeth from
Aldershare, not farre by west of Euersleie: and about Eluesham
Ducus.
likewise with another running from Dogmansfield named the Douke: and
Erin.
also the third not inferior to the rest comming from Erin, whose head is
in Surreie, and going by Ash becommeth a limit, first betwéene Surreie
and Hamshire; then betwéene Hamshire and Barkeshire, and passing by Ash,
Erinleie, Blacke water, Perleie, and Finchamsted; it ioineth at last
with the Ditford, before it come at Swalowfield. To conclude therefore
with our Loddon, hauing receiued all these waters; and after the last
confluence with them now being come to Loddon bridge, it passeth on by a
part of Wiltshire to Twiford bridge, then to Wargraue, and so into the
Thames that now is maruellouslie increased and growen vnto triple
greatnesse (to that it was at Oxford.)
Being therefore past Shiplake and Wargraue, it runneth by Horsependon,
or Harding: then to Henleie vpon Thames, where sometime a great rill
voideth it selfe in the same. Then to Remenham, Greneland (going all
this waie from Shiplake iust north, and now turning eastwards againe) by
Medenham, Hurlie, Bisham, Marlow the greater, Marlow the lesse, it
meeteth with a brooke soone after that consisteth of the water of two
Vsa.
rilles, whereof the one called the Vse, riseth about west Wickham, out
of one of the Chilterne hilles, and goeth from thence to east Wickham or
high Wickham, a pretie market towne. The other named Higden, descendeth
Higden.
also from those mounteines but a mile beneath west Wickham, and ioining
both in one at the last, in the west end of east Wickham towne, they go
togither to Wooburne, Hedsor, & so into the Thames. Some call it the
Tide; and that word doo I vse in my former treatise: but to procéed.
After this confluence our Thames goeth on by Cowkham, Topleie,
Maidenhead, aliàs Sudlington, Braie, Dorneie, Clure, new Windsore
(taking in neuerthelesse, at Eaton by the waie, the Burne which riseth
out of a Moore, & commeth thither by Burnham) old Windsor, Wraiborow,
and a little by east therof doth crosse the Cole, whereof I find this
short description insuing.
Colus, aliàs Vere and Vertume.
The Cole riseth néere vnto Flamsted, from whence it goeth to Redburn, S.
Michaels, S. Albons, Aldenham, Watford, and so by More to Richmansworth,
where there is a confluence of three waters, of which this Cole is the
Gadus.
first. The second called Gadus riseth not farre from Ashridge, an house
or palace belonging to the prince: from whence it runneth to great
Gaddesdin, Hemsted, betwéene Kings Langleie, and Abbots Langleie, then
to Hunters, and Cashew bridges, and so to Richmanswoorth, receiuing by
the waie a rill comming from Alburie by northwest, to Northchurch,
Barkehamsted, and beneath Hemsted ioining with the same. The last
commeth in at northwest from aboue Chesham, by Chesham it selfe, then by
Chesham Bois, Latimers, Mawdlens, Cheinies, Sarret and Richmanswoorth,
and so going on all in one chanell vnder the name of Cole, it runneth to
Vxbridge, where it taketh in the Missenden water, from northwest, which
rising aboue Missenden the greater goeth by Missenden the lesse,
Hagmondesham (now Hammersham) the Vach, Chalfhunt Giles, Chalfhunt S.
Peters, Denham, and then into the Cole aboue Vxbridge (as I haue said.)
Soone after this our Cole doth part it selfe into two branches, neuer to
ioine againe before they come at the Thames, for the greater of them
goeth thorough the goodlie medows straight to Colebrooke, the other vnto
two milles, a mile and a halfe east of Colebrooke, in the waie to
London, leauing an Iland betwéene them of no small size and quantitie.
Vindeles.
Being past the Cole, we come to the fall of the Vindeles, which riseth
by northwest néere vnto Bagshot, from whence it goeth to Windlesham,
Chobham, and méeting with a brooklet comming westward from Bisleie, they
run togither toward Cherteseie, where when they haue met with a small
rill rising north of Sonning hill in Windlesoure great parke, it falleth
into the Thames on the northeast side of Cherteseie. When we were come
beyond this water, it was not long yer we came vnto another on the same
side, that fell into the Thames betweene Shepperton on the one side, and
Veius.
Oteland on the other, and is called the Waie. The Weie or the Waie
rising by west, commeth from Olsted, & soone after taking the Hedleie
brooke withall (which riseth in Wulmere forrest, and goeth by Hedleie
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and Frensham) hasteth by Bentleie, Farnham, Alton, Waiberleie, Elsted,
Thuresbie.
and so to Pepper harrow, where it ioineth with the Thuresbie water,
which commeth not farre off from a village of the same denomination.
From hence also it goeth to Godalming, and then toward Shawford, but yer
it come there, it crosseth Craulie becke, which rising somewhere about
Crawleie.
the edge of Sussex short of Ridgewijc, goeth by Vacherie parke, Knoll,
Craulie, Bramleie, Wonarsh, and so into the Waie. From hence then our
Abbinger.
riuer goeth to Shawford, and soone after (méeting with the Abbinger
water that commeth by Shere, Albirie, and the chappell on the hill) it
proceedeth to Guldeford, thence to Stoke, Sutton in the parke, Send,
Woking, and at Newarke parke side taketh in a brooke that riseth of two
heads, whereof one dooth spring betwéene two hils north of Pepper
harrow, and so runneth through Henleie parke, the other aboue Purbright,
and afterward ioining in one, they go foorth vnto Newarke, and being
there vnited, after the confluence it goeth to Purford court, to Bifler,
Waifred, Oteland, and so into the Thames.
Molts.
From Oteland the Thames goeth by Walton, Sunburie, west Moulseie,
Hampton, and yer it come at Hampton court on the northside, and east
Moulseie on the other, it taketh in the Moule water, which giueth name
vnto the two townes that stand on each side of the place, where it
falleth into our streame. It riseth in Word forrest, and going by
Burstow, it méeteth afterward with another gullet, conteining a small
course from two seuerall heads, whereof one is also in the forrest
aforenamed, the other runneth from Febush wood, and comming by Iseld,
méeteth with the first aboue Horleie, and so run on in one chanell, I
saie, till they ioine with the Moule water, whereof I spake before.
After this confluence in like sort, it is not long yer the Moule take in
another from by north, which commeth from about Mesham on the one side,
and another on the other side, running by Ocleie and Capell, and
whereinto also a branch or rill commeth from a wood on the northwest
part. Finallie, being thus increased with these manie rilles, it goeth
by east Becheworth, west Becheworth, and ouer against the Swalow on the
side of Drake hill, taking in another that cōmeth thither from
Wootton by Darking and Milton, it runneth to Mickleham, Letherhed,
Stoke, Cobham, Ashire parke, east Moulseie, and so into the Thames,
which after this coniunction goeth on to Kingston, and there also
méeteth with another becke, rising at Ewell south of Nonsuch. Certes,
this rill goeth from Ewell by the old parke, then to Mauldon, & so to
Kingston towne. The Thames in like maner being past Kingston, goeth to
Tuddington, Petersham, Twickenham, Richmond, and Shene, where it
receiueth a water on the northwest side, which comming from about Harrow
on the hill, and by west of the same, goeth by Haies, Harlington,
Felthan, and Thistleworth into the Thames.
The next fall of water is at Sion, néere vnto new Brainford, so that it
Brane.
issueth into the Thames betwéen them both. This water is called Brane,
that is in the Brittish toong (as Leland saith) a frog. It riseth about
Edgeworth, and commeth from thence by Kingesburie, Twiford, Periuall,
Hanwell, and Austerleie. Thence we followed our riuer to old Brentford,
Mortlach, Cheswijc, Barnelmes, Fulham, and Putneie, beneath which townes
it crossed a becke from Wandlesworth, that riseth at Woodmans turne, and
going by Easthalton, méeteth another comming from Croidon by Bedington,
and so going on to Mitcham, Marton abbeie, and Wandlesworth, it is not
Mariburne.
long yer it fall into the Thames. Next vnto this is Mariburne rill on
the other side, which commeth in by S. Iames, so that by this time we
haue either brought the Thames, or the Thames conueied vs to London,
where we rested for a season to take view of the seuerall tides there,
of which each one differeth from other, by foure & twentie minuts, that
is fortie eight in a whole daie, as I haue noted before, except the
wether alter them. Being past London, and in the waie toward the sea:
the first water that it méeteth withall, is the Brome on Kent side,
Bromis.
west of Gréenewich, whose head is Bromis in Bromleie parish, and going
from thence to Lewsham, it taketh in a water from by east, and so
directeth his course foorth right vnto the Thames.
The next water that it méeteth withall, is on Essex side, almost against
Lée.
Woolwich, and that is the Lée or Luie, whose head riseth short of
Kempton in Hertfordshire, foure miles southeast of Luton, sometime
[Page 88]
Logus.
called Logodunum or Logrodunum, & going through a péece of Brokehall
parke (leauing Woodhall parke on the north, and Hatfield on the south,
with another parke adioining) it goeth toward Hartford towne. But yer it
Marran.
come there, it receiueth a water (peraduenture the Marran) rising at
northwest in Brodewater hundred, from aboue Welwin, northeast of
Digeswell, and going to Hartingfeld burie, where the said confluence
is within one mile of the towne. Beneath Hatfield also it receiueth the
Beane.
Beane (as I gesse) comming from Boxwood by Benington, Aston, Watton, and
Stapleford, and a little lower, the third arme of increase from aboue
Ware, which descendeth from two heads: whereof the greatest commeth from
Barkewaie in Edwinster hundred, the other Sandon in Oddesey hundred, and
after they be met beneath little Hornemeade, they go togither by
Pulcherchurch, or Puckrich, Stonden, Thunderidge, Wadesmill, Benghoo,
and so into the Lée, which from hence runneth on till it come at Ware,
which was drowned by the rage of the same 1408, and so to Amwell, where
on the north side it receiueth the water that commeth from little
Hadham, through a péece of Singleshall parke, then by great Hadham, and
so from Widford to the aforesaid towne. From hence also they go as one
to old Stansted called Le Veil, branching in such wise yer it come
there, that it runneth through the towne in sundrie places. Thence it
goeth foorth to Abbats Stansted, beneath which it méeteth with the
Sturus.
Stoure, west (as I remember) of Roidon. This Sture riseth at Wenden
lootes, from whence it goeth to Langleie, Clauering, Berden, Manhuden, &
Birchanger (where it taketh a rill comming from Elsingham, & Stansted
Mountfitchet.) Thence it hieth on to Bishops Stourford, Sabrichfoord,
and beneath this towne crosseth with another from the east side of
Elsingham, that goeth to Hatfield, Brodocke, Shiring, Harlo, & so into
the Stoure, and from whence they go togither to Eastwic, Parmedon, and
next into the Lée. These things being thus performed, the Lée runneth on
beneath Hoddesdon, Broxburne, and Wormleie, where a water breaketh out
by west of the maine streame, a mile lower than Wormeleie it selfe, but
yet within the paroch, and is called Wormeleie locke.
It runneth also by Cheston nunrie, and out of this a little beneath the
said house, breaketh an arme called the Shirelake, bicause it diuideth
Eastsex and Hartford shire in sunder, and in the length of one medow
called Fritheie. This lake runneth not but at great flouds, and méeteth
againe with a succor of ditchwater, at a place called Hockesditch, halfe
a mile from his first breaking out, and halfe a mile lower at Marsh
point ioineth againe with the streame from whence it came before. Thence
commeth the first arme to S. Maulie bridge (the first bridge westward
vpon that riuer) vpon Waltham causie, & halfe a mile lower than Maulie
bridge, at the corner of Ramnie mead, it méeteth with the kings streame
& principall course of Luy, or Lee, as it is commonlie called. The
second arme breaketh out of the kings streame at Halifield halfe a mile
lower than Cheston nunrie, and so to the fulling mill, and two bridges
by west of the kings streame, wherinto it falleth about a stones cast
lower at a place called Malkins shelffe, except I was wrong informed.
Cheston & Hartfordshire men doo saie, that the kings streame at Waltham
dooth part Hartfordshire and Essex, but the Essex men by forrest charter
doo plead their liberties to hold vnto S. Maulies bridge. On the east
side also of the kings streame breaketh out but one principall arme at
Halifield, three quarters of a mile aboue Waltham, & so goeth to the
corne mill in Waltham, and then to the K. streame againe a little
beneath the kings bridge.
From hence the Lée runneth on by south on Waltonstow till it come to
Stretford Langthorne, where it brancheth partlie of it selfe, and partlie
Alfred.
by mans industrie for mils. Howbeit heerein the dealing of Alfred
(sometimes king of England) was not of smallest force, who vnderstanding
the Danes to be gotten vp with their ships into the countrie, there to
kill and slaie his subiects, in the yeere of grace 896, by the conduct
of this riuer: he in the meane time before they could returne, did so
mightilie weaken the maine chanell, by drawing great numbers of trenches
from the same; that when they purposed to come backe, there was nothing
so much water left as the ships did draw: wherefore being set on ground,
they were soone fired, & the aduersaries ouercome. By this policie also
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much medow ground was woone, & made firme land, whereby the countrie
about was not a little inriched, as was also a part of Assyria by the
like practise of Cyrus with the Ganges, at such time as he came against
Babylon, which riuer before time was in maner equall with Euphrates. For
he was so offended, that one of his knights whom he loued déerlie, was
drowned and borne awaie with the water in his passage ouer the same,
that he sware a deepe oth yer long to make it so shallow that it should
not wet a woman to the knées. Which came to passe, for he caused all his
armie to dig 46 new draines frō the same, wherby the vow that he had
made was at the full performed. Senec. de Tra. li. 3. But to conclude
with the Lee that somtime ouerflowed all those medowes, through which it
passeth (as for a great waie not inferior to the Thames) and I find that
being past Westham, it is not long yer it fall into that streame. One
thing I read more of this riuer before the conquest, that is, how Edward
the first, & sonne of Alfred, in the yeare of grace 912, builded
Hartford towne: at which time also he had Wittham a towne in Essex in
hand, as his sister called Aelfled repaired Oxford & London, and all
this foure yeares before the building of Maldon; of some called Hertford
or Herudford betweene three waters, that is, the Lée, the Benefuth, and
Memmarran, or rather Penmarran: but how these waters are distinguished
in these daies, as yet I cannot tell. It is possible, that the Bene may
be the same which commeth by Benington, and Benghoo: which if it be so,
then must the Memmarran be the same that descendeth from Whitwell, for
not farre from thence is Branfield, which might in time past right well
be called Marranfield, for of like inuersion of names I could shew manie
examples.
Being past the Lee (whose chanell is begun to be purged 1576, with
further hope to bring the same to the north side of London) we come vnto
Rodon or Rodunus.
the Rodon, vpon Essex side in like maner, and not verie farre (for foure
miles is the most) from the fall of the Lée. This water riseth at little
Canfield, from whence it goeth to great Canfield, high Roding, Eithorpe
Roding, Ledon Roding, White Roding, Beauchampe Roding, Fifeld, Shelleie,
high Ongar, and Cheping Ongar, where the Lauer falleth into it, that
Lauer.
ariseth betwixt Matching and high Lauer; and taking another rill withall
comming from aboue Northweld at Cheping Ongar, they ioine (I saie) with
the Rodon, after which confluence Leland coniectureth that the streame
Iuelus.
is called Iuell: for my part, I wot not what to say of it. But héerof I
am sure, that the whole course being past Ongar, it goeth to Stansted
riuers, Theidon mount, Heibridge, Chigwell, Woodford bridge, Ilford
bridge, Barking, & so into the Thames.
Darwent.
The Darwent méeteth with our said Thames vpon Kents side, two miles and
more beneath Erith. It riseth at Tanridge, or there abouts, as I haue
beene informed by Christopher Saxtons card late made of the same, and
the like (I hope) he will doo in all the seuerall shires of England at
the infinit charges of sir Thomas Sackford knight, & maister of the
requests, whose zeale vnto his countrie héerin I cannot but remember, &
so much the rather, for that he meaneth to imitate Ortelius, & somewhat
beside this hath holpen me in the names of the townes, by which these
riuers for the Kentish part do run. Would to God his plats were once
finished for the rest! But to procéed. The Darwent therefore, rising at
Tanridge, goeth on by Titseie toward Brasted, and receiuing on ech side
of that towne (& seuerall bankes) a riuer or rill, it goeth on to
Nockhold, Shorham, Kinsford, Horton, Darnhith, Dartford or Derwentford,
Craie.
& there taking in the Craie on the left hand that coms from Orpington by
Marie Craie, Paules Craie, North Craie, and Craiford, it is not long yer
it fall into the Thames. But after I had once passed the fall of the
brooke, it is a world to sée what plentie of Serephium groweth vpon the
Kentish shore, in whose description Fuichsius hath not a little halted;
whilest he giueth foorth the hearbe Argentaria for Serephium, betwéene
which there is no maner of likelihood. This neuerthelesse is notable in
the said hearbe, that being translated into the garden, it receiueth
another forme cleane different from the first, which it yéelded when it
grew vpon the shore, and therevnto appeareth of more fat & foggie
substance. Which maketh me to thinke that our physicians do take it for
a distinct kind of wormewood, whereof controuersie ariseth among them.
The next water that falleth into the Thames, is west of the Wauie Iles,
a rill of no great fame, neither long course, for rising about Coringham,
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it runneth not manie miles east and by south, yer it fall into the mouth
of this riuer, which I doo now describe.
I would haue spoken of one créeke that commeth in at Cliffe, and another
that runneth downe from Haltsto by S. Maries: but sith I vnderstand not
with what backewaters they be serued, I let them passe as not skilfull
of their courses. And thus much of the riuers that fall into the Thames,
wherein I haue doone what I maie, but not what I would for mine owne
satisfaction, till I came from the head to Lechlade, vnto which, as in
lieu of a farewell, I will ascribe that distichon which Apollonius
Rhodius writeth of the Thermodon:
Huic non est aliud flumen par, nec tot in agros
Vllum dimittit riuos quot fundit vtrinque.
Midwaie.
Next vnto the Thames we haue the Midwaie water, whereof I find two
descriptions, the first beginneth thus. The Midwaie water is called in
Latine Medeuia (as some write) bicause the course therof is midwaie in a
manner betwéene London and Dorobernia, or (as we now call it)
Canturburie. In British it hight Dourbrée: and thereof Rochester was
sometime called Durobreuum. But in an old charter which I haue seene
(conteining a donation sometime made to the monasterie of saint Andrews
there by Ceadwalla) I find that the Saxons called this riuer Wedring;
and also a towne standing betweene Malling and east Farleie, Wedrington;
and finallie, a forrest also of the same denomination, Wedrington, now
Waterdon, wherby the originall name appeareth to be fetched from this
streame. It ariseth in Waterdon forrest east of Whetlin or Wedring, and
ioineth with another brooke that descendeth from Ward forrest in Sussex:
and after this confluence they go on togither, as one by Ashhirst, where
hauing receiued also the second brooke, it hasteth to Pensherst, and
there carrieth withall the Eden, that commeth from Lingfield parke.
After this it goeth to the southeast part of Kent, and taketh with it
Frethus.
the Frith or Firth, on the northwest side, and an other little streame
that commeth from the hilles betwéene Peuenburie and Horsemon on the
southeast. From thence also, and not farre from Yalling it receiueth the
Theise.
Theise (a pretie streame that ariseth about Theise Hirst) & afterward
Grane aliàs Cranus.
the Gran or Crane, which hauing his head not farre from Cranbrooke, and
méeting with sundrie other riuelets by the waie, whereof one branch of
Theise is the last, for it parteth at the Twist, and including a pretie
Iland, doth ioine with the said Midwaie, a little aboue Yalding, and
then with the Lowse. Finallie at Maidstone it méeteth with another
brooke, whose name I know not, and then passeth by Allington, Duton,
Newhide, Halling, Cuckestane, Rochester, Chattham, Gillingham, Vpchurch,
Kingsferrie, and falleth into the maine sea betwéene Shepeie and the
Grane.
And thus much out of the first authour, who commendeth it also, for that
in time past it did yéeld such plentie of sturgeon, as beside the kings
portion, and a due vnto the archbishop of Canturburie out of the same,
the deane and chapter of Rochester had no small allowance also of that
commoditie: likewise for the shrimps that are taken therein, which are
no lesse estéemed of in their kind, than the westerne smelts or
flounders taken in the Thames, &c. The second authour describeth it
after this manner, and more copiouslie than the other.
The cheefe head of this streame riseth in Waterdon forrest, from whence
after it hath runne a pretie waie still within the same, east of
Whetlin, it méeteth with a brooke, whose head is in Ward forrest,
southwest of Greenested, which goeth to Hartfield, and so to Whetlin,
and yer long ioineth with the Midwaie. After this confluence it is not
long yer it take in another by west from Cowden ward, and the third
aboue Pensherst, growing from two heads, whereof one is in Lingfield
parke, the other west of Crawherst; and ioining aboue Edinbridge, it
doth fall into the midwaie beneath Heuer towne, and Chiddingston. From
Pensherst our maine streame hasteth to Ligh, Tunbridge, and Twidleie,
and beneath the towne, it crosseth a water from North, whereof one head
is at the Mote, another at Wroteham, the third at west Peckham, &
likewise another from southest, that runneth east of Capell. Next after
this it receiueth the These, whose forked head is at Theise Hirst, which
descending downe toward the north, taketh in not farre from Scotnie a
brooke out of the northside of Waterden forrest, whose name I find not,
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except it be the Dour. After this confluence our riuer goeth to
Goldhirst, and comming to the Twist, it brancheth in such wise, that one
part of it runneth into Midwaie, another into the Garan, or rather
Garunus, Cranus.
Cranebrooke (if my coniecture be anie thing.) The Garan (as Leland
calleth it) or the Crane (as I doo take it) riseth néere to Cranebrooke,
and going by Siffinghirst, it receiueth yer long one water that commeth
by Fretingdon, and another that runneth from great Chard by Smerdon, and
Hedcorne, crossing two rilles by the waie from by north, Hedcorne it
selfe standing betwéene them both. Finallie, the Garan or Crane meeting
with Midwaie south of Yalling, they on the one side, and the These on
the other, leaue a pretie Iland in the middest, of foure miles in
length, and two in breadth, wherein is some hillie soile, but neither
towne nor village, so farre as I remember.
From Yalling forward, the Midwaie goeth to west Farlegh, east Farlegh:
and yer it come at Maidstone, it interteineth a rill that riseth short
of Ienham, and goeth by Ledes and Otteringden, which is verie
beneficiall to clothiers in drie yéeres: for thither they conueie their
clothes to be thicked at the fulling milles, sometimes ten miles for the
same: there is also at Ledes great plentie of fulling earth, which is a
necessarie commoditie.
Being past Maidstone, it runneth by Allington, Snodland, Halling,
Cuckstane, and Rochester, where it passeth vnder a faire bridge of
stone, with a verie swift course, which bridge was begun 1388 by the
lord Iohn Cobham, the ladie Margaret his wife, and the valiant sir
Robert Knolles, who gaue the first onset vpon that péece of worke, and
therevnto builded a chappell of the Trinitie at the end therof, in
testimonie of his pietie. In processe of time also one Iohn Warner of
Rochester made the new coping thereof; and archbishop Warham of
Canturburie the iron barres: the bishops also of that see were not
slacke in their beneuolence and furtherances toward that worke,
especiallie Walter Merton founder of Merton college in Oxford, who by
misfortune perished by falling from the same, as he rode to surueie the
workemen. Being past Rochester, this noble riuer goeth to Chatham,
Gillingham, Vpchurch, and soone after branching, it imbraceth the Greene
at his fall, as his two heads doo Ashdon forrest, that lieth betwéene
them both.
Stoure.
After the Midwaie we haue the Stoure that riseth at Kingeswood, which is
Nailburne water also (as I heare) neer to Cantwarbirie,
but I wote not whereabouts: sée Marianus Scotus.
fourtéene or fifteene miles from Canturburie. This riuer passeth by
Ashford, Wie, Nackington, Canturburie, Fordish, Standish, and
Sturemouth, where it receiueth another riuer growing of three branches.
After our Stoure or Sture parteth it self in twaine, & in such wise,
that one arme therof goeth toward the north, and is called (when it
commeth at the sea) the north mouth of Stoure; the other runneth
southeastward vp to Richborow, and so to Sandwich, from whence it goeth
northeast againe and falleth into the sea. The issue of this later tract
is called the hauen of Sandwich. And peraduenture the streame that
commeth downe thither, after the diuision of the Stoure, maie be the
Wantsome.
same which Beda calleth Wantsome; but as I cannot vndoo this knot at
will, so this is certeine, that the Stoure on the one side, and
peraduenture the Wantsome on the other, parteth and cutteth the Tenet
from the maine land of Kent, whereby it is left for an Iland.
There are other little brookes which fall into the Stoure, whereof
Leland speaketh, as Fishpoole becke that ariseth in Stonehirst wood, and
meeteth with it foure miles from Canturburie: another beginneth at
Chislet, and goeth into the Stoure gut, which sometime inclosed Thanet,
as Leland saith: the third issueth out of the ground at Northburne
(where Eadbert of Kent sometime past held his palace) and runneth to
Sandwich hauen, as the said authour reporteth: and the fourth called
Bridgewater that riseth by S. Marie Burne church, and going by Bishops
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Burne, meeteth with Canturburie water at Stourmouth: also Wiham that
riseth aboue Wiham short of Adsam, and falleth into Bridgewater at
Dudmill, or Wenderton: and the third namelesse, which riseth short of
Wodensburgh (a towne wherein Hengist & the Saxons honored their grand
idoll Woden, or Othine) and goeth by Staple to Wingam: but sith they are
obscure I will not touch them here. From hence passing by the Goodwine,
a plot verie perilous for sea-faring men (sometime firme land, that is,
vntill the tenth of the conquerours sonne, whose name was William Rufus,
and wherein a great part of the inheritance of erle Goodwine in time
past was knowne to lie) but escaping it with ease, we came at length to
Dour.
Douer. In all which voiage we found no streame, by reason of the cliffes
that inuiron the said coast. Howbeit vpon the south side of Douer, there
is a pretie fresh riuer, whose head ariseth at Erwell, not passing foure
miles from the sea, and of some is called Dour, which in the British
toong is a common name for waters, as is also the old British word Auon
for the greatest riuers, into whose mouthes or falles shippes might find
safe entrance; and therefore such are in my time called hauens, a new
word growen by an aspiration added to the old: the Scots call it Auen.
But more of this else-where, sith I am now onelie to speake of Dour,
wherof it is likelie that the towne & castell of Douer did sometime take
the name. From hence we go toward the Camber (omitting peraduenture here
and there sundrie small creeks void of backwater by the waie)
Rother.
whereabouts the Rother a noble riuer falleth into the sea. This Rother
separateth Sussex from Kent, and hath his head in Sussex, not farre from
Argas hill néere to Waterden forrest, and from thence directeth his
course vnto Rotherfield. After this it goeth to Ethlingham or
Hitchingham, and so foorth by Newendon vnto Mattham ferrie, where it
diuideth it selfe in such wise, that one branch thereof goeth to
Appledoure (where is a castell sometime builded by the Danes, in the
time of Alfred, as they did erect another at Middleton, and the third at
Bilie.
Beamflete) and at this towne, where it méeteth the Bilie that riseth
about Bilsington, the other by Iden, so that it includeth a fine parcell
of ground called Oxneie, which in time past was reputed as a parcell of
Sussex; but now vpon some occasion or other (to me vnknowne) annexed
vnto Kent. From hence also growing into some greatnesse, it runneth to
Becke.
Rie, where it méeteth finallie with the Becke, which commeth from
Beckleie: so that the plot wherein Rie standeth, is in manner a by-land
or peninsula, as experience doth confirme. Leland and most men are of the
Limenus.
likeliest opinion, that this riuer should be called the Limen, which (as
Peter of Cornhull saith) doth issue out of Andredeswald, where the head
thereof is knowne to be. Certes, I am of the opinion, that it is called
the Rother vnto Appledoure, & from thence the Limen, bicause the Danes
are noted to enter into these parts by the Limen; and sailing on the
same to Appledoure, did there begin to fortifie, as I haue noted
alreadie. Howbeit, in our time it is knowne by none other name than the
Rother or Appledoure water, whereof let this suffice.
Being thus crossed ouer to the west side of Rie hauen, & in vewing the
issues that fall into the same, I meet first of all with a water that
groweth of two brookes, which come downe by one chanell into the east
side of the mouth of the said port. The first therfore that falleth into
it descendeth from Beckleie or thereabouts (as I take it) the next
runneth along by Pesemarsh, & soone after ioining with all, they hold on
as one, till they fall into the same at the westerlie side of Rie: the
third streame commeth from the north, and as it mounteth vp not farre
from Munfield, so it runneth betweene Sescambe and Wacklinton néere vnto
Bread, taking another rill withall that riseth (as I heare) not verie
far from Westfield. There is likewise a fourth that groweth of two heads
betweene Ielingham and Pet, and going by Winchelseie it méeteth with all
about Rie hauen, so that Winchelseie standeth inuironed on thrée parts
with water, and the streames of these two that I haue last rehearsed.
The water that falleth into the Ocean, a mile by southwest of Hastings,
Aestus.
or therabouts, is called Æstus or Asten: perhaps of Hasten or Hasting
the Dane, (who in time past was a plague to France and England) & rising
not far from Penhirst, it meeteth with the sea (as I heare) by east of
Buluerhithe.
Hollington. Buluerhith is but a creeke (as I remember) serued with no
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backewater; and so I heare of Codding or Old hauen, wherefore I meane
not to touch them.
Peuenseie.
Into Peuenseie hauen diuerse waters doo resort, and of these, that which
entereth into the same on the east side riseth out from two heads,
Ash.
Burne.
whereof the most easterlie is called Ash, the next vnto the Burne, and
vniting themselues not farre from Ashburne, they continue their course
vnder the name and tide of Ashburne water, as I read. The second that
commeth thereinto issueth also of two heads, whereof the one is so manie
miles from Boreham, the other not far from the Parke east of
Hellingstowne, and both of them concurring southwest of Hirstmowsen,
they direct their course toward Peuenseie (beneath which they méet with
another rising at Foington) and thence go in one chanell for a mile or
Cucomarus.
more, till they fall togither into Peuenseie hauen. The Cuckmer issueth
out at seuerall places, and hereof the more easterlie branch commeth
from Warbleton ward, the other from Bishops wood, and méeting beneath
Halling, they run one bottome by Micham, Arlington, Wellington, old
Frithstan, and so into the sea.
Isis.
Ni fallor.
Vnto the water that commeth out at Newhauen, sundrie brookes and
riuerets doo resort, but the chiefe head riseth toward the west,
somewhat betwéene Etchinford and Shepleie, as I heare. The first water
therefore that falleth into the same on the east side, issueth out of
the ground about Vertwood, and running from thence by Langhton and Ripe,
on the west side; it falleth into the aforesaid riuer beneath Forle and
Glime, or thrée miles lower than Lewis, if the other buttall like you
not. The next herevnto hath his head in Argas hill, the third descendeth
from Ashedon forrest, and ioining with the last mentioned, they crosse
the maine riuer a little beneath Isefield. The fourth water commeth from
Ashedon forrest by Horstéed Caines (or Ousestate Caines) and falleth
into the same, likewise east of Linfield. Certes I am deceiued if this
riuer be not called Isis, after it is past Isefield. The fift riseth
Sturewell.
about Storuelgate, and meeteth also with the maine streame aboue
Linfield, and these are knowen to lie vpon the right hand as we rowed vp
the riuer. On the other side are onelie two, whereof the first hath his
originall neere vnto Wenefield, and holding on his course toward the
east, it meeteth with his maister betweene Newicke and Isefield (or
Plimus.
Ifield) as some read it. The last of all commeth from Plimodune or
Plumpton, and hauing met in like sort with the maine riuer about
Barcham, it runneth foorth with it, & they rest in one chanell by
Barcham, Hamseie, Malling, Lewis, Piddingburne, and so foorth into the
maine.
Soru.
The next riuer that we came vnto west of Brighthemston is the Sore,
which notwithstanding I find to be called Brember water, in the ancient
map of Marton colledge in Oxford: but in such sort (as I take it) as the
Rother or Limen is called Appledoure streame, bicause of the said towne
that standeth thervpon. But to procéed, it is a pleasant water, &
thereto if you consider the situation of his armes, and branches from
the higher grounds, verie much resembling a foure stringed whip.
Whereabout the head of this riuer is, or which of these branches may
safelie be called Sora from the rising, in good sooth I cannot say. For
after we had passed nine or ten mils thereon vp into the land, suddenlie
the crosse waters stopped vs, so that we were inforced to turne either
east or west, for directlie foorth right we had no waie to go. The first
arme on the right hand as we went, riseth out of a parke by south of
Alborne, and going on for a certeine space toward the northwest, it
turneth southward betwéene Shermonburie and Twinham, and soone after
Bimarus.
méeteth with the Bimar, not much south from Shermonburie, whence they
run togither almost two miles, till they fall into the Sore. That on the
west side descendeth from about Billingeshirst, & going toward the east,
it crosseth with the fourth (which riseth a litle by west of Thacam)
east from Pulborow, and so they run as one into the Sore, that after
this confluence hasteth it selfe southward by Brember, Burleis, the
Combes, and yer long into the Ocean.
Arunus.
The Arun (of which beside Arundell towne the castell and the vallie
wherin it runneth is called Vallis Aruntina, or Arundale in English) is
a goodlie water, and thereto increased with no small number of excellent
& pleasant brookes. It springeth vp of two heads, whereof one descendeth
from the north not far from Gretham, and going by Lis, méeteth with the
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next streame (as I gesse) about Doursford house. The second riseth by
west from the hils that lie toward the rising of the sunne from East
maine, and runneth by Peterfield. The third commeth from Beriton ward,
and ioineth with the second betwéene Peterfield and Doursford, after
which confluence they go togither in one chanell still toward the east
(taking a rill with them that cōmmeth betwéene Fernehirst and S.
Lukes chappell, southwest of Linchmere, and meeting with it east of
Loddesworth (as I doo read, and likewise sundrie other in one chanell
beneath Stopham) to Waltham, Burie, Houghton, Stoke, Arundell,
Tortington ford, Climping (all on the west side) and so into the sea.
Hauing thus described the west side of Arun, let vs doo the like with
the other in such sort as we best may. The first riuer that we come vnto
therfore on the east side, and also the second, rise of sundrie places
in S. Leonards forrest, & ioining a little aboue Horsham, they méet with
the third, which commeth from Ifield parke, not verie farre from
Slinfeld. The fourth hath two heads, whereof one riseth in Witleie
parke, the other by west, neere vnto Heselméere chappell, and meeting by
west of Doursfeld, they vnite themselues with the chanell, growing by
the confluence that I spake of beneath Slinfeld, a little aboue
Billingshirst. The last water commeth from the hils aboue Linchemere,
and runneth west and south, and passing betwéene Billingshirst and
Stopham it commeth vnto the chanell last mentioned, and so into the Arun
beneath Stopham, without anie further increase, at the least that I doo
heare of.
Burne.
Burne hath his issue in a parke néere Aldingburrie (or rather a little
aboue the same toward the north, as I haue since beene informed) and
running by the bottomes toward the south, it falleth betwéene north
Elin.
Berflete and Flesham. Erin riseth of sundrie heads, by east of Erinleie,
and directing his course toward the sunne rising, it peninsulateth
Delūs.
Seleseie towne on the southwest and Pagham at northwest. Deel springeth
about Benderton, and thence running betwéene middle Lauant and east
Lauant, it goeth by west of west Hampnet, by east of Chichester, or west
of Rumbaldesdowne, and afterward by Fishburne, where it meeteth with a
rill comming north west from Funtingdon (a little beneath the towne) &
then running thus in one streame toward the sea, it méeteth with another
rillet comming by north of Bosham, and so into Auant gulfe by east of
Thorneie Iland.
Racunus.
The Racon riseth by east of Racton or Racodunum (as Leland calleth it)
and comming by Chidham, it falleth into the sea, northeast of Thorneie
Emill.
aforesaid. The Emill commeth first betwéene Racton and Stansted, then
downe to Emilsworth or Emmesworth, & so vnto the Ocean, separating
Sussex from Hampshire almost from the very head. Hauing in this maner
passed along the coasts of Sussex, the next water that I remember,
riseth by east of the forrest of Estbirie, from whence it goeth by
Southwike, west Burhunt, Farham, and so into the gulfe almost full
Badunus forte.
south. Then come we to Bedenham creeke (so called of a village standing
thereby) the mouth whereof lieth almost directlie against Porchester
castell, which is situat about three miles by water from Portesmouth
towne, as Leland dooth report. Then go we within halfe a mile further
Forten or Fordon.
to Forten creeke, which either giueth or taketh name of a village hard
Osterpoole.
by. After this we come to Osterpoole lake, a great créeke, that goeth vp
by west into the land, and lieth not far from a round turret of stone,
from whence also there goeth a chaine to another tower on the east side
directlie ouer against it, the like whereof is to be séene in diuerse
other hauens of the west countrie, wherby the entrance of great vessels
into that part may be at pleasure restreined.
From hence we go further to Tichefeld water, that riseth about Eastmaine
Tichefield.
parke, ten or twelue miles by northeast or there abouts from Tichefeld.
From Eastmaine it goeth (parting the forrests of Waltham, and Eastberie
by the way) to Wicham or Wicombe, a pretie market towne & large
throughfare, where also the water separateth it selfe into two armelets,
and going vnder two bridges of wood commeth yer long againe vnto one
chanell. From hence it goeth three or foure miles further, to a bridge
of timber by maister Writhoseleies house (leauing Tichfeld towne on the
right side) and a little beneath runneth vnder Ware bridge, whither the
sea floweth as hir naturall course inforceth. Finallie, within a mile of
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this bridge it goeth into the water of Hampton hauen, whervnto diuerse
streames resort, as you shall heare hereafter.
Hamelrish.
After this we come to Hamble hauen, or Hamelrish créeke, whose fall is
betwéene saint Andrewes castell, and Hoke. It riseth about Shidford in
Waltham forrest, & when it is past Croke bridge, it méeteth with another
brooke, which issueth not farre from Bishops Waltham, out of sundrie
springs in the high waie on Winchester, from whence it passeth (as I
said) by Bishops Waltham, then to Budeleie or Botleie, and then ioining
with the Hamble, they run togither by Prowlingsworth, Vpton, Brusill,
Hamble towne, and so into the sea.
Southhampton.
Now come we to the hauen of Southhampton, by Ptolomie called Magnus
portus, which I will briefelie describe so néere as I can possiblie. The
bredth or entrie of the mouth hereof (as I take it) is by estimation two
miles from shore to shore. At the west point therof also is a strong
castell latelie builded, which is rightlie named Caldshore, but now
Cawshot, I wote not by what occasion. On the east side thereof also is a
place called Hoke (afore mentioned) or Hamell hoke; wherein are not
aboue thrée or foure fisher houses, not worthie to be remembred. This
hauen shooteth vp on the west side by the space of seuen miles, vntill
it come to Hampton towne, standing on the other side, where it is by
estimation a mile from land to land. Thence it goeth vp further about
thrée miles to Redbridge, still ebbing and flowing thither, and one mile
further, so farre as my memorie dooth serue mée. Now it resteth that I
describe the Alresford streame, which some doo call the Arre or Arle,
and I will procéed withall in this order following.
Alresford.
The Alresford beginneth of diuerse faire springs, about a mile or more
frō Alresford, or Alford as it is now called, and soone after
resorting to one bottome, they become a broad lake, which for the most
part is called Alford pond. Afterward returning againe to a narrow
chanell, it goeth through a stone bridge at the end of Alford towne
(leauing the towne it selfe on the left hand) toward Hicthingstocke
thrée miles off, but yer it commeth there, it receiueth two rils in one
bottome, whereof one commeth from the Forrest in maner at hand, and by
northwest of old Alresford, the other frō Browne Candiuer, that goeth
by Northenton, Swarewotton, Aberstone, &c: vntill we méet with the said
water beneath Alford towne. Being past Hichinstocke, it commeth by
Auington to Eston village, and to Woorthie, where it beginneth to
branch, and ech arme to part it selfe into other that resort to Hide and
the lower soiles by east of Winchester, there seruing the stréets, the
close of S. Maries, Wolueseie, and the new college verie plentifullie
with their water. But in this meane while, the great streame commeth
from Worthie to the east bridge, and so to saint Elizabeth college,
where it dooth also part in twaine, enuironing the said house in most
delectable maner. After this it goeth toward S. Crosses, leauing it a
quarter of a mile on the right hand: then to Twiford (a mile lower)
where it gathereth againe into one bottome, and goeth six miles further
Otter.
to Woodmill, taking the Otter brooke withall on the east side, and so
into the salt créeke that leadeth downe to the hauen.
On the other side of Southhampton, there resorteth into this hauen also
Stocke.
both the Test & the Stockbridge water in one bottome, whereof I find
this large description insuing. The verie head of the Stockewater, is
supposed to be somewhere about Basing stoke, or church Hockleie, and
going from thence betwéene Ouerton and Steuenton, it commeth at last by
Lauerstocke & Whitchurch, and soone after receiuing a brooke by
Bourne.
northwest, called the Bourne (descending from S. Marie Bourne, southeast
from Horsseburne) it procéedeth by Long paroch and the wood, till it
meet with the Cranburne, on the east side (a pretie riuelet rising about
Michelneie, and going by Fullington, Barton, and to Cramburne) thence to
Horwell in one bottome, beneath which it meeteth with the Andeuer water,
that is increased yer it come there by an other brooke, whose name I doo
not know. This Andeuer streame riseth in Culhamshire forrest, not far by
north from Andeuer towne, and going to vpper Clatford, yer it touch
there it receiueth the rill of which I spake before, which rising also
néere vnto Anport, goeth to Monketon, to Abbatesham, the Andeuer, and
both (as I said) vnto the Test beneath Horwell, whereof I spake euen
now.
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These streames being thus brought into one bottome, it runneth toward
the south vnder Stockbridge, and soone after diuiding it selfe in
twaine, one branch thereof goeth by Houghton, & a little beneath meeteth
with a rill, that commeth from bywest of S. Ans hil, and goeth by east
of vpper Wallop, west of nether Wallop, by Bucholt forrest, Broughton,
Valopius.
and called (as I haue béene informed) the Gallop, but now it is named
Wallop. The other arme runneth through the parke, by north west of kings
Somburne, and vniting themselues againe, they go forth by Motteshunt, and
Test.
then receiue the Test, a pretie water rising in Clarendun parke, that
goeth by west Deane, and east Deane, so to Motteshunt, and finallie to
the aforesaid water, which from thencefoorth is called the Test, euen
vnto the sea. But to procéed. After this confluence, it taketh the gate
to Kimbebridge, then to Rumseie, Longbridge, and beneath the same
receiueth a concourse of two rilles whereof the one commeth from
Sherefield, the other from the new Forrest, and ioining in Wadeleie
parke, they beat vpon the Test, not verie farre from Murseling. From
thence the Test goeth vnder a pretie bridge, before it come at
Redbridge, from whence it is not long yer it fall into the hauen.
The next riuer that runneth into this port, springeth in the new
Eling.
Forrest, and commeth thereinto about Eling, not passing one mile by west
of the fall of Test. From hence casting about againe into the maine sea,
and leauing Calde shore castell on the right hand, we directed our
course toward the southwest, vnto Beaulieu hauen, whereinto the Mineie
Mineie.
descendeth. The Mineie riseth not far from Mineiestéed, a village in the
north part of the new Forrest; and going by Beaulieu, it falleth into
the sea southwest (as I take it) of Exburie, a village standing vpon the
shore.
Limen.
Being past the Mineie, we crossed the Limen as it is now called, whose
head is in the verie hart of the new Forrest (sometime conuerted into a
place of nourishment for déere by William Rufus, buieng his pleasure
with the ruine of manie towns and villages, as diuerse haue inclosed or
inlarged their parks by the spoile of better occupiengs) & running
southwest of Lindhirst & the parke, it goeth by east of Brokenhirst,
west of Bulder, & finallie into the sea south and by east of Lemington.
I take this not to be the proper name of the water, but of the hauen,
for Limen in Gréeke is an hauen: so that Limendune is nothing else, but
a downe or higher plot of ground lieng on the hauen: neuerthelesse, sith
this denomination of the riuer hath now hir frée passage, I think it not
conuenient to séeke out any other name that should be giuen vnto it. The
next fall that we passed by is namelesse, except it be called Bure, & as
Bure.
Milis.
it descendeth from new Forrest, so the next vnto it hight Mile, as I
haue heard in English. Certes the head thereof is also in the southwest
part of the said Forrest, & the fall not far from Milford bridge, beyond
the which I find a narrow going or strictland leading frō the point
to Hirst castell which standeth into the sea, as if it hoong by a thred,
from the maine of the Iland, readie to be washed awaie by the continuall
working and dailie beating of the waues.
Auon.
The next riuer that we came vnto of anie name is the Auon, which (as
Leland saith) riseth by northeast, and not far from Woolfehall in
Wiltshire, supposed to be the same which Ptolomie called Halenus. The
first notable bridge that it runneth vnto,is at Vphauen, thence foure
miles further it goeth to little Ambresburie, and there is another
bridge, from thence to Woodford village, standing at the right hand
banke, and Newton village on the left. The bishops of Sarum had a proper
manor place at Woodford, which bishop Sharton pulled downe altogither,
bicause it was somewhat in ruine. Thence it goeth to Fisherton bridge,
to Cranebridge, old Salisburie, new Salisburie, and finallie to Harnham,
which is a statelie bridge of stone, of six arches at the least. There
is at the west end of the said bridge, a little Iland, that lieth
betwixt this and another bridge, of foure pretie arches, and vnder this
later runneth a good round streame, which (as I take it) is a branch of
Auon, that breaketh out a little aboue, & soone after it reuniteth it
selfe againe: or else that Wilton water hath there his entrie into the
Auon, which I cannot yet determine. From Harneham bridge it goeth to
Dounton, that is about foure miles, and so much in like sort from thence
to Fordingbridge, to Ringwood bridge fiue miles, to Christes church
Twinham fiue miles, and streight into the sea; and hitherto Leland of
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this streame, which for the worthinesse thereof (in mine opinion) is not
sufficientlie described. Wherefore I thinke good to deliuer a second
receiued of another, which in more particular maner dooth exhibit his
course vnto vs.
Certes this Auon is a goodlie riuer, rising (as I said before néere)
vnto Wolfe hall; although he that will séeke more scrupulouslie for the
head in déed, must looke for the same about the borders of the forrest
of Sauernake (that is Soure oke) which lieth as if it were imbraced
betwéene the first armes thereof, as I haue beene informed. These heads
also doo make a confluence by east of Martinshall hill, and west of
Wootton. From whence it goeth to Milton, Powseie, Manningfield abbeie,
Manningfield crosse, and beneath Newington taketh in one rill west from
Rudborow, and another a little lower that riseth also west of
Alcanninges, and runneth into the same by Patneie, Merden, Wilford,
Charleton, and Rustisall. Being therefore past Newington, it goeth to
Vphauen (whereof Leland speaketh) to Chesilburie, Compton, Ablington,
little Almsburie, Darntford, Woodford, old Salisburie, and so to new
Salisburie, where it receiueth one notable riuer from by northwest, &
another from north east, which two I will first describe, leauing the
Wilugh.
Auon at Salisburie for a while. The first of these is called the Wilugh,
whereof the whole shire dooth take hir name, and not of the great
plentie of willowes growing therein, as some fantasticall heads doo
imagine: whereof also there is more plentie in that countrie than is to
be found in other places. It riseth among the Deuerels, and running
thence by hill Deuerell, & Deuerell long bridge, it goeth toward Bishops
straw, taking in one rill by west & another from Vpton by Werminster at
northwest. From Bishops straw it goeth to Norton, Vpton, Badhampton,
Steplinford, and Stapleford, where it meeteth with the Winterburie water
from by north, descending from Maddenton by Winterburne. From Stapleford
it hasteth to Wishford, Newton, Chilhampton, Wilton: and thither commeth
a water vnto it from southwest, which riseth of two heads aboue
Ouerdonet. After this it goeth by Wordcastell, to Tisburie, and there
receiueth a water on ech side, whereof one commeth from Funthill, the
other from two issues (of which one riseth at Austie, the other at
Swalodise) and so keeping on still with his course, our Wilugh runneth
next of all by Sutton. Thence it goeth to Fouant, Boberstocke,
Nader becke.
Southburcombe, Wilton (where it taketh in the Fomington or Nader water)
Westharnam, Salisburie, and Eastharnam: and this is the race of Wilugh.
The other is a naked arme or streame without anie branches. It riseth
aboue Colingburne Kingston in the hils, and thence it goeth to
Colingburne, the Tidworths (whereof the more southerlie is in Wiltshire)
Shipton, Cholterton, Newton, Toneie, Idmerson, Porton, the Winterburns,
Lauerstocke, and so into Auon east of Salisburie. And thus is the
confluence made of the aforesaid waters, with this our second Auon,
Becquith brooke.
whereinto another water falleth (called Becquithes brooke) a mile
beneath Harneham bridge, whose head is fiue miles from Sarum, and thrée
miles aboue Becquithes bridge, as Leland doth remember, who noteth the
Chalkeburne.
Chalkeburne water to haue his due recourse also at this place into the
aforesaid riuer. Certes it is a pretie brooke, and riseth six miles from
Shaftesburie, and in the waie toward Salisburie in a bottome on the
right hand, whence it commeth by Knighton and Fennistratford, to
Honington, that is about twelue miles from the head, and about two miles
and an halfe from Honington beneath Odstocke, goeth into the Auon, a
mile lower than Harnham bridge, except he forget himselfe. This Harnham,
whereof I now intreat, was sometime a pretie village before the erection
of new Salisburie, and had a church of S. Martine belonging vnto it, but
now in stéed of this church, there is onelie a barne standing in a verie
low mead on the northside of S. Michaels hospitall. The cause of the
relinquishing of it was the moistnesse of the soile, verie oft
ouerflowne. And whereas the kings high waie laie sometime through
Wilton, licence was obteined of the king and Richard bishop of
Salisburie, to remooue that passage vnto new Salisburie in like maner,
and vpon this occasion was the maine bridge made ouer Auon at Harneham.
Thrée towns decaied by changing one waie.
By this exchange of the waie also old Salisburie fell into vtter decaie,
& Wilton which was before the head towne of the shire, and furnished
with twelue parish churches, grew to be but a poore village, and of
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small reputation. Howbeit, this was not the onelie cause of the ruine of
old Salisburie, sith I read of two other, whereof the first was a salue
vnto the latter, as I take it. For whereas it was giuen out, that the
townesmen wanted water in old Salisburie, it is flat otherwise; sith
that hill is verie plentifullie serued with springs and wels of verie
swéet water. The truth of the matter therefore is this.
An holie conflict.
In the time of ciuill warres, the souldiors of the castell and chanons
of old Sarum fell at ods, insomuch that after often bralles, they fell
at last to sad blowes. It happened therefore in a rogation weeke that
the cleargie going in solemne procession, a controuersie fell betwéene
them about certeine walkes and limits, which the one side claimed and
the other denied. Such also was the hot intertainment on ech part, that
at the last the Castellanes espieng their time, gate betwéene the
cleargie and the towne, and so coiled them as they returned homeward,
that they feared anie more to gang about their bounds for the yeare.
Héerevpon the people missing their bellie cheare (for they were woont to
haue banketing at euerie station, a thing commonlie practised by the
religious in old time, wherewith to linke in the commons vnto them, whom
anie man may lead whither he will by the bellie, or as Latimer said,
with beefe, bread and beere) they conceiued foorthwith a deadlie hatred
against the Castellans. But not being able to cope with them by force of
armes, they consulted with Richard Pore their bishop, and he with them
so effectuallie, that it was not long yer they, I meane the chanons,
began a new church vpon a péece of their owne ground called Mirifield,
pretending to serue God there in better safetie, and with far more
New Salisburie begun.
quietnesse than they could doo before. This church was begun 1219, the
nine and twentith of Aprill, and finished with the expenses of 42000
marks, in the yeare 1260, and fiue & twentith of March, whereby it
appeereth that it was aboue fortie yéers in hand, although the clearks
were translated to the new towne 1220, or the third yeere after the
fraie. The people also séeing the diligence of the chanons, and reputing
their harmes for their owne inconuenience, were as earnest on the other
side to be néere vnto these prelats, and therefore euerie man brought
his house vnto that place, & thus became old Sarum in few yeeres
vtterlie desolate, and new Salisburie raised vp in stéed thereof, to the
great decaie also of Harnham and Wilton, whereof I spake of late.
Neuerthelesse it should séeme to me that this new citie is not
altogither void of some great hinderances now and then by water: for in
the second of Edward the second (who held a parlement there) there was a
sudden thaw after a great frost, which caused the waters so fast to
arise, that euen at high masse time the water came into the minster, and
not onelie ouerflowed the nether part of the same, but came vp all to
the kings pauase where he sate, whereby he became wetshod, and in the
end inforced to leaue the church, as the executour did his masse, least
they should all haue béene drowned: and this rage indured there for the
space of two daies, wherevpon no seruice could be said in the said
minster.
Now to returne againe from whence I thus digressed. Our Auon therefore
departing from Salisburie, goeth by Burtford, Longford, and taking in
the waters afore mentioned by the waie, it goeth by Stanleie, Dunketon,
Craiford, Burgate, Fording bridge, Ringwood, Auon, Christes church; and
finallie into the sea. But yer it come all there & a litle beneth
Sturus.
Christes church, it crosseth the Stoure or Sture, a verie faire streame,
whose course is such as may not be left vntouched. It riseth of six
heads, whereof thrée lie on the north side of the parke at Sturton
within the pale, the other rise without the parke; & of this riuer the
towne and baronie of Sturton dooth take his name as I gesse, for except
my memorie do too much faile me, the lord Sturton giueth the six heads
of the said water in his armes. But to procéed. After these branches are
conioined in one bottome, it goeth to long Laime mill, Stilton, Milton,
and beneath Gillingham receiueth a water that descendeth from Mere.
Thence the Sture goeth to Bugleie, Stoure, Westouer bridge, Stoure
Cale.
prouost, and yer long it taketh in the Cale water, from Pen that commeth
downe by Wickhampton to Moreland, & so to Stapleford, seuen miles from
Wickhampton, passing in the said voiage, by Wine Caunton, and the fiue
bridges. After this confluence, it runneth to Hinton Maries, and soone
Lidden.
Deuilis.
after crosseth the Lidden and Deuilis waters all in one chanell, whereof
the first riseth in Blackemore vale, and goeth to the bishops Caundell:
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the second in the hils south of Pulham, and so runneth to Lidlinch; the
Iber.
third water issueth néere Ibberton, and going by Fifehed to Lidlington,
Blackewater.
and there méeting with the Lidden, they receiue the Blackewater aboue
Bagburne, and so go into the Stoure.
After this the Stoure runneth on to Stoureton minster, Fitleford,
Hammond, and soone after taking in one water that commeth from Hargraue
by west Orchard, and a second from Funtmill, it goeth on to Chele,
Ankeford, Handford, Durweston, Knighton, Brainston, Blandford,
Charleton: and crossing yer long a rill that riseth about Tarrent, and
goeth to Launston, Munketon, Caunston, Tarrant, it proceedeth foorth by
Shepwijc, and by and by receiuing another brooke on the right hand, that
riseth about Strictland, and goeth by Quarleston, Whitchurch, Anderston,
and Winterburne, it hasteth forward to Stoureminster, Berford lake, Alen
bridge, Winburne, aliàs Twinburne minster, whither commeth a water
called Alen (from Knolton, Wikehampton, Estambridge, Hinton, Barnsleie)
which hath two heads, whereof one riseth short of Woodcotes, and east of
Farneham, named Terig, the other at Munketon aboue S. Giles Winburne,
and going thence to S. Giles Ashleie, it taketh in the Horton becke, as
the Horton dooth the Cranburne. Finallie, meeting with the Terig aboue
Knolton, they run on vnder the name of Alen to the Stoure, which goeth
to the Canfords, Preston, Kingston, Perleie, and Yolnest: but yer it
This Stoure aboundeth with pike, perch, roch,
dace, gudgeon and éeles.
come at Yolnest it taketh in two brookes in one bottome, whereof one
commeth from Woodland parke by Holt parke, and Holt, another from aboue
vpper Winburne, by Edmondesham, Vertwood, and Mannington, and ioining
about S. Leonards, they go to Hornebridge, and so into Stoure. After
which confluence, the said Stoure runneth by Iuor bridge, and so into
Auon, leauing Christs church aboue the méeting of the said waters (as I
haue said before.)
Hauing in this maner passed Christes church head we come to the fall ofBurne.
the Burne, which is a little brooke running from Stourefield heath,
without branches; from whence we proceeded: & the next fall that we come
Poole.
vnto is Poole, from whose mouth vpon the shore, by southwest in a baie
of thrée miles off, is a poore fisher towne called Sandwich, where we
saw a péere and a little fresh brooke. The verie vtter part of saint
Adelmes point, is fiue miles from Sandwich. In another baie lieth west
Lilleworth, where (as I heare) is some profitable harborough for ships.
The towne of Poole is from Winburne about foure miles, and it standeth
almost as an Ile in the hauen. The hauen it selfe also, if a man should
measure it by the circuit, wanteth little of twentie miles, as I did
gesse by the view.
Going therefore into the same, betwéene the north and the south points,
to sée what waters were there, we left Brunkeseie Iland, and the castell
on the left hand within the said points; and passing about by Pole, and
leauing that créeke, bicause it hath no fresh, we came by Holton and
Kesworth, where we beheld two falles, of which one was called the north,
Piddle.
the other the south waters. The north streame hight Piddle as I heare.
It riseth about Alton, and goeth from thence to Piddle trench head,
Deuils.
Piddle hinton, Walterstow, and yer it come at Birstam, receiueth Deuils
brooke that commeth thither from Brugham and Melcombe by Deuilish towne.
Thence it goeth to Tow piddle, Ashe piddle, Turners piddle (taking in
yer it come there, a water that runneth from Helton by Middleton,
Milburne & Biere) then to Hide, and so into Pole hauen, and of this
water Marianus Scotus speaketh, except I be deceiued. The south water
Frome.
is properlie called Frome for Frame. It riseth néere vnto Euershot, and
going downe by Fromequitaine, Chelmington, and Catstocke, it receiueth
there a rill from beside Rowsham, and Wraxehall. After this it goeth on
Ocus.
to Chilfrome, and thence to Maden Newton, where it méeteth with the
Owke, that riseth either two miles aboue Hoke parke at Kenford, or in
the great pond within Hoke parke, and going by the Tollards, falleth
into the Frome about Maden Newton, & so go as one from thence to
Fromevauchirch, Crokewaie, Frampton, and Muckilford, and receiueth néere
vnto the same a rill from aboue Vpsidling by S. Nicholas Sidling, and
Grimston. From hence it goeth on by Stratton and Bradford Peuerell, and
Silleie.
Minterne.
Cherne.
beneath this Bradford, it crosseth the Silleie aliàs Minterne and Cherne
brooks both in one chanell: whereof the first riseth in vpper Cherne
parish, the other at Minterne, and méeting aboue middle Cherne, they go
[Page 100]
by nether Cherne, Forston, Godmanston, and aboue Charneminster into
Frome. In the meane time also our Frome brancheth and leaueth an Iland
aboue Charneminster, and ioining againe néere Dorchester, it goeth by
Dorchester, and Forthington; but yer it come at Beckington, it méeteth
with another Becke that runneth thereinto from Winterburne, Stapleton,
Martinstow, Heringstow, Caine and Stafford, and from thence goeth
without anie further increase as yet to Beckington, Knighton, Tinkleton,
Morton, Wooll, Bindon, Stoke, & beneath Stoke receiueth the issue of the
Luckford.
Luckford lake, from whence also it passeth by Eastholme, Warham, and so
Séeke more for Wilie brooke that goeth by
West burie to Pole hauen.
into the Baie. From this fall we went about the arme point by Slepe,
where we saw a little créeke, then by Owre, where we beheld an other, &
then comming againe toward the entrance by saint Helens, and Furleie
castell, we went abroad into the maine, and found ourselues at libertie.
When we were past Pole hauen, we left the Handfast point, the Peuerell
point, S. Adelmes chappell, and came at last to Lughport hauen, whereby
and also the Luckeford lake, all this portion of ground last remembred,
is left in maner of a byland or peninsula, and called the Ile of
Burbecke, wherein is good store of alum and hard stone. In like sort
going still westerlie, we came to Sutton points, where is a créeke. Then
vnto Waie or Wilemouth, by kings Welcombe, which is twentie miles from
Pole, and whose head is not full foure miles aboue the hauen by
northwest at Vphill in the side of a great hill. Hereinto when we were
entred, we saw three falles, whereof the first and greatest commeth from
Vpweie by Bradweie, and Radipoole, receiuing afterward the second that
ran from east Chekerell, and likewise the third that maketh the ground
betwéene Weimouth and Smalmouth passage almost an Iland. There is a
little barre of sand at the hauen mouth, and a great arme of the sea
runneth vp by the right hand; and scant a mile aboue the hauen mouth on
the shore, is a right goodlie and warlike castell made, which hath one
open barbicane. This arme runneth vp also further by a mile as in a
baie, to a point of land where a passage is into Portland, by a little
course of pibble sand. It goeth vp also from the said passage vnto
Abbatsbirie about seauen miles off, where a litle fresh rondell
resorteth to the sea. And somewhat aboue this, is the head or point of
Chesill.
the Chesill lieng northwest, which stretcheth vp from thence about
seauen miles, as a maine narrow banke, by a right line vnto the
southeast, and there abutteth vpon Portland scant a quarter of a mile
aboue the Newcastle there. The nature of this banke is such, that so
often as the wind bloweth vehementlie at southeast, so often the sea
beateth in, and losing the banke soketh through it: so that if this wind
should blow from that corner anie long time togither, Portland should be
left an Iland as it hath béene before. But as the southwest wind dooth
appaire this banke, so a northwest dooth barre it vp againe. It is
pretie to note of the Townelet of Waimouth, which lieth streight against
Milton on the other side, and of this place where the water of the hauen
is but of small breadth, that a rope is commonlie tied from one side of
the shore to another, whereby the ferrie men doo guide their botes
without anie helpe of Ores. But to procéed with our purpose. Into the
mouth of this riuer doo ships often come for succour.
Going by Portland and the point thereof called the Rase, we sailed along
by the Shingle, till we came by saint Katharins chappell, where we saw
the fall of a water that came downe from Blackdéene Beaconward, by
Portsham and Abbatsburie. Thence we went to another that fell into the
sea, neere Birton, and descended from Litton by Chilcombe, then vnto the
Bride.
Bride or Brute port, a pretie hauen, and the riuer it selfe serued with
Nature hath set the mouth of this riuer in maner betwixt
two hils, so that a little cost would make an hauē there.
sundrie waters. It riseth halfe a mile or more aboue Bemister, and so goeth
from Bemister to Netherburie by Parneham, then to Melplash, and so to Briteport,
where it taketh in two waters from by east in one chanell, of which one riseth
east of Nettlecort, and goeth by Porestoke and Milton, the other at
Askerwell, and runneth by Longlether. From hence also our Bride going
Simen.
toward the sea, taketh the Simen on the west that commeth by Simensburge
into the same, the whole streame soone after falling into the sea, and
leauing a pretie hauenet.
Chare.
The next port is the Chare, serued with two rils in one confluence,
beneath Charemouth. The cheefe head of this riuer is (as Leland saith)
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in Marshwood parke, and commeth downe by Whitechurch: the other runneth
by west of Wootton, and méeting beneath Charemouth towne (as I said)
dooth fall into the sea. Then came we to the Cobbe, and beheld the Lime
Buddle.
water, which the townesmen call the Buddle, which commeth about thrée
miles by north of Lime, from the hils, fleting vpon Rockie soile, and so
falleth into the sea. Certes, there is no hauen héere that I could sée,
but a quarter of a mile by west southwest of the towne, is a great and
costlie iuttie in the sea for succour of ships. The towne is distant
from Coliton, about fiue miles. And heere we ended our voiage from the
Auon, which conteineth the whole coast of Dorcester, or Dorcetshire, so
that next we must enter into Summerset countie, and sée what waters are
there.
Axe.
The first water that we méet withall in Summersetshire is the Axe, which
riseth in a place called Axe knoll, longing to sir Giles Strangwaie,
néere vnto Cheddington in Dorsetshire, from whence it runneth to
Mosterne, Feborow, Claxton, Weiford bridge, Winsham foord, and receiuing
one rill from the east by Hawkechurch, and soone after another comming
from northwest by Churchstoke, from Wainbroke, it goeth to Axeminster,
Yare aliàs Arte.
beneath which it crosseth the Yare, that commeth from about Buckland, by
Whitstaunton, Yarecombe, Long bridge, Stockeland, Kilmington bridge
(where it receiueth a brooke from by south, that runneth by Dalwood) and
so into the Axe. From hence our Axe goeth to Drake, Musburie, Culliford:
but yer it come altogither at Culliford, it méeteth with a water that
riseth aboue Cotleie, and goeth from thence by Widworthie, Culliton, and
there receiuing a rill also, procéedeth on after the confluence aboue
Culliford bridge, into the Axe, and from thence hold on togither into
the maine sea, whereinto they fall vnder the roots of the winter
cliffes, the points of them being almost a mile in sunder. The most
westerlie of them called Berewood, lieth within halfe a mile of Seton.
But the other toward the east is named Whitecliffe, of which I saie no
more, but that "in the time of Athelstane, the greatest nauie that euer
aduentured into this Iland, arriued at Seton in Deuonshire, being
replenished with aliens that sought the conquest of this Iland, but
Athelstane met and incountered with them in the field, where he
ouerthrew six thousand of his aforesaid enimies. Not one of them also
that remained aliue, escaped from the battell without some deadlie or
verie gréeuous wound. In this conflict moreouer were slaine fiue kings,
which were interred in the churchyard of Axe minster, and of the part of
the king of England were killed eight earles of the chéefe of his
nobilitie, and they also buried in the churchyard aforesaid. Héervnto it
addeth how the bishop of Shireburne was in like sort slaine in this
battell, that began at Brunedune neere to Coliton, and indured euen to
Axe minster, which then was called Brunberie or Brunburg. The same daie
that this thing happened the sunne lost his light, and so continued
without anie brightnesse, vntill the setting of that planet, though
otherwise the season was cléere and nothing cloudie."
As for the hauen which in times past as I haue heard, hath béene at
Sidmouth (so called of Sidde a rillet that runneth thereto) and likewise
at Seton, I passe it ouer, sith now there Sidde. Seton. is
none at all. Yet hath there béene sometime a notable one, albeit, that
at this present betweene the two points of the old hauen, there lieth a
mightie bar of pibble stones, in the verie mouth of it, and the riuer
Axe is driuen to the verie east point of the hauen called White cliffe.
Thereat also a verie little gull goeth into the sea, whither small
fisherbotes doo oft resort for succour. The men of Seton began of late
to stake and make a maine wall within the hauen to haue changed the
course of the Axe, and (almost in the middle of the old hauen) to haue
trenched through the Chesill, thereby to haue let out the Axe, & to haue
taken in the maine sea, but I heare of none effect that this attempt did
come vnto. From Seton westward lieth Coliton, about two miles by west
Colie.
northwest, whereof riseth the riuer Colie, which going by the aforesaid
towne, passeth by Colecombe parke, and afterward falleth betweene Axe
bridge and Axe mouth towne into the Axe riuer.
By west of Bereworth point lieth a créeke, serued (so farre as I
remember) with a fresh water that commeth from the hilles south of
Sid.
Soutleie or Branscombe. Sidmouth hauen is the next, and thither commeth a
fresh water by S. Maries from the said hils, that goeth from S. Maries
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aforesaid to Sidburie, & betweene Saltcombe & Sidmouth into the maine
Autrie aliàs Ottereie.
sea. By west of Auterton point also lieth another hauen, and thither
commeth a pretie riueret, whose head is in the Hackpendon hilles, and
commeth downe first by Vpauter, then by a parke side to Mohuns Auter,
Munketon, Honniton, Buckewell, and north of Autrie receiueth a rill
Tale.
called Tale, that riseth northwest of Brodemburie in a wood, and from
whence it commeth by Pehemburie, Vinniton, and making a confluence with
the other, they go as one betwéene Cadde and Autrie, to Herford, Luton,
Collaton, Auterton, Budeleie, and so into the sea. On the west side of
this hauen is Budeleie almost directly against Otterton. It is easie to
be seene also, that within lesse space than one hundred yeers, ships did
vse this hauen, but now it is barred vp. Some call it Budeleie hauen of
Budeleie towne, others Salterne port, of a little créeke comming out of
the maine hauen vnto Salterne village, that hath in time past béene a
towne of great estimation.
Exe.
The Ex riseth in Exmore in Summersetshire, néere vnto Ex crosse, and
goeth from thence vnto Exeford, Winsford, and Extun, where it receiueth
a water comming from Cutcombe, by north. After this confluence it goeth
on toward the south, till it méet with a pretie brooke rising northeast
of Whettell (going by Brunton Regis) increased at the least with thrée
rilles which come all from by north. These being once met, this water
runneth on by west of the beacon that beareth the name of Haddon, & soone
Barleie.
after taketh in the Barleie, that receiueth in like sort the Done at
Done aliàs Dones broke.
Hawkbridge, and from hence goeth by Dauerton, and Combe, and then doth
méet with the Exe, almost in the verie confines betwéene Dorset &
Summersetshires. Being past this coniunction, our Exe passeth betwéene
Brushford and Murbath, and then to Exe bridge, where it taketh in (as I
heare) a water by west from east Austie: and after this likewise another
on ech side, whereof one commeth from Dixford, and Baunton, the other
Woodburne.
called Woodburne, somewhat by east of Okeford. From these meetings it
goeth to Caue and through the forrest and woods to Hatherland and
Washfields, vntill it come to Tiuerton, and here it receiueth the Lomund
water that riseth aboue Ashbrittle, & commeth downe by Hockworthie,
vpper Loman, and so to Tiuerton that standeth almost euen in the verie
Lomund or Simming.
confluence. Some call this Lomund the Simming brooke or Sunnings bath.
After this our Exe goeth to Bickleie, Theuerten, (taking in a rill by
Columbe.
west) nether Exe, Bramford, beneath which it ioineth with the Columbe
that riseth of one head northeast of Clarie Haidon, and of another south
of Shildon, and méeting beneath Columbe stocke, goeth by Columbe and
Bradfeld, and there crossing a rill that commeth by Ashford, it runneth
south to Wood, More haies, Columbton, Brandnicke, Beare, Columbe Iohn,
Hoxham, and ioining (as I said) with the Exe at Bramford, passing vnder
but one bridge, yer it meet with another water by west, growing of the
Cride.
Forten.
Forten and Cride waters (except it be so that I doo iudge amisse.) The
Cride riseth aboue Wollesworthie, and néere vnto Vpton: after it is past
Dewrish, crosseth a rill from betweene Puggill and Stockeleie by Stocke
English, &c. From hence it goeth to Fulford, where it méeteth with the
Forten, wherof one branch commeth by Caldbrooke, the other from S. Marie
Tedburne, and ioining aboue Crediton, the chanell goeth on to the Cride,
(which yer long also receiueth another from by north, comming by
Stockeleie and Combe) then betwéene Haine and Newton Sires, to Pines,
and so into the Exe, which staieth not vntill it come to Excester. From
Excester (whither the burgesses in time past laboured to bring the same,
but in vaine) it runneth to Were, there taking in a rill from by west,
and an other lower by Exminster, next of all vnto Toppesham; beneath
Cliuus.
which towne the Cliue entreth thereinto, which rising about Plumtree,
goeth by Cliff Haidon, Cliff Laurence, Brode Cliff, Honiton, Souton,
Bishops Cliff, S. Marie Cliff, Cliff saint George, and then into the
Exe, that runneth forward by Notwell court, Limston and Pouderham
Ken.
castell. Here (as I heare) it taketh in the Ken, or Kenton brooke (as
Leland calleth it) comming from Holcombe parke, by Dunsdike,
Shillingford, Kenford, Ken, Kenton, and so into Exe hauen, at whose
mouth lie certeine rocks which they call the Checkstones, except I be
deceiued. The next fall, whereof Leland saith nothing at all, commeth by
Ashcombe and Dulish, and hath his head in the hilles thereby.
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Teigne.
The Teigne mouth is the next fall that we came to, & it is a goodlie
port foure miles from Exemouth. The head of this water is twentie miles
from the sea at Teigne head in Dartmore among the Gidleie hilles. From
whence it goeth to Gidleie towne, Teignton drue, where it receiueth the
Crokerne.
Crokerne comming from by north, and likewise an other west of Fulford
parke. Then it goeth to Dufford, Bridford, Kirslowe, Chidleie, Knighton,
Bouie.
and beneath the bridge there receiueth the Bouie, whose course is to
north Bouie, Lilleie, and Bouitracie. Thence it runneth to kings
Eidis.
Teignton, taking in Eidis, a brooke beneath Preston that commeth from
Edeford by the waie. And when it is past this confluence, at kings
Leman.
Teignton, it crosseth the Leman, which commeth from Saddleton rocke by
Aller.
Beckington, and Newton Bushels: and soone after the Aller that riseth
betwéene Danburie and Warog well, afterward falling into the sea by
Bishops Teignton, south of Teignmouth towne.
The verie vtter west point of the land, at the mouth of Teigne is called
the Nesse, and is a verie high red cliffe. The east part of the hauen is
named the Poles, a low sandie ground, either cast vp by the spuing of
the sand out of the Teigne, or else throwne vp from the shore by the
rage of wind and water. This sand occupieth now a great quantitie of the
ground betwéene the hauen where the sand riseth, and Teignmouth towne,
which towne (surnamed Regis) hath in time past béene sore defaced by the
Danes, and of late time by the French.
From Teignemouth we came to Tor baie, wherof the west point is called
Birie, and the east Perritorie, betwéene which is little aboue foure
miles. From Tor baie also to Dartmouth is six miles, where (saith
Leland) I marked diuerse things. First of all vpon the east side of the
hauen a great hillie point called Downesend, and betwixt Downesend, and
a pointlet named Wereford is a little baie. Were it selfe, in like sort,
is not full a mile from Downesend vpward into the hauen. Kingswere towne
standeth out as another pointlet, and betwixt it & Wereford is the
second baie. Somewhat moreouer aboue Kingswere towne goeth a little
créeke vp into the land from the maine streame of the hauen called
Waterhead, and this is a verie fit place for vessels to be made in. In
like sort halfe a mile beyond this into the landward goeth another
longer créeke, and aboue that also a greater than either of these called
Gawnston, whose head is here not halfe a mile from the maine sea, by the
compassing thereof, as it runneth in Tor baie.
Dart.
The riuer of Dart or Darent (for I read Derenta muth for Dartmouth)
commeth out of Dartmore fiftéene miles aboue Totnesse, in a verie large
plot, and such another wild morish & forrestie ground as Exmore is. Of
it selfe moreouer this water is verie swift, and thorough occasion of
tin-workes whereby it passeth, it carrieth much sand to Totnesse bridge,
and so choketh the depth of the riuer downeward, that the hauen it selfe
is almost spoiled by the same. The mariners of Dartmouth accompt this to
be about a kenning from Plimmouth. The Darent therefore proceeding from
the place of his vprising, goeth on to Buckland, from whence it goeth to
Ashburne.
Buckland hole; and soone after taking in the Ashburne water on the one
Buckfastlich.
side that runneth from Saddleton rocke by north, and the Buckfastlich
that commeth from north west, it runneth to Staunton, Darington,
Hemston, and there also crossing a rill on ech side passeth foorth to
Hartburne.
Totnesse, Bowden, and aboue Gabriell Stoke, méeteth with the Hartburne
that runneth vnder Rost bridge, two miles aboue Totnes, or (as another
saith) by Ratter, Harberton, Painesford, and Asprempton into Darent,
which yon long also commeth to Corneworthie, Grenewaie, Ditsham,
Darntmouth towne (wherevnto king Iohn gaue sometimes a maior, as he did
vnto Totnesse) from thence betwéene the castelles, and finallie into sea.
From hence we went by Stokeflemming to another water, which commeth from
blacke Auton, then to the second that falleth in east of Slapton, and so
coasting out of this baie by the Start point, we saile almost directlie
west, till we come to Saltcombe hauen. Certes this port hath verie
little fresh water comming to it, and therefore no meruell though it be
barred; yet the head of it (such as it is) riseth néere Buckland, and
goeth to Dudbrooke, which standeth betwéene two créekes. Thence it hieth
[Page 104]
to Charleton, where it taketh in a rill, whose head commeth from south
and north of Shereford. Finallie it hath another créeke that runneth vp
by Ilton: and the last of all that falleth in north of Portlemouth,
whose head is so néere the baie last afore remembred, that it maketh it
a sorie peninsula (as I haue heard it said.)
Awne.
Then come we to the Awne, whose head is in the hils farre aboue Brent
towne, from whence it goeth to Dixford wood, Loddewell, Hache, Aunton,
Thorleston, and so into the sea ouer against a rocke called S. Michaels
Arme.
burrow. Arme riseth aboue Harford, thence to Stoford, Iuie bridge,
Armington bridge, Fléet, Orchardton, Ownewell, and so vnto the sea,
which is full of flats and rocks, so that no ship commeth thither in
anie tempest, except it be forced therto, through the vttermost
extremitie and desperat hazard of the fearefull mariners. King Philip of
Sée Hen. 7. pag. 792, 793, 794.
Castile lost two ships here in the daies of king Henrie the seuenth,
when he was driuen to land in the west countrie by the rage of weather.
Yalme.
Yalme goeth by Cornewood, Slade, Stratleie, Yalmeton, Collaton, Newton
ferrie, and so into the sea, about foure miles by south east from the
Plim.
maine streame of Plimmouth. Being past these portlets, then next of all
we come to Plimmouth hauen, a verie busie péece to describe, bicause of
the numbers of waters that resort vnto it, & small helpe that I haue for
the knowledge of their courses; yet will I doo what I may in this, as in
the rest, and so much I hope by Gods grace to performe, as shall suffice
my purpose in this behalfe.
Plim.
The Plimne or Plim, is the verie same water that giueth name to Plimpton
towne. The mouth of this gulfe, wherein the ships doo ride, is walled on
ech side and chained ouer in time of necessitie, and on the south side
of the hauen is a blocke house vpon a rockie hill: but as touching the
riuer it selfe, it riseth in the hils west of Cornewood, and commeth
downe a short course of thrée miles to Newenham after it be issued out
of the ground. From Newenham also it runneth to Plimpton, and soone after
Stoure aliàs Catwater.
into the Stoure, which Stoure ariseth northwest of Shepistour, & goeth
frō thence to Memchurch, Hele, Shane, Bickleie, and so to Eford,
where taking in the Plim, it runneth downe as one vnder the name of
Plim, vntill it go past Plimmouth, and fall into the hauen south east of
Plimmouth aforesaid. I haue oftentimes trauelled to find out the cause
whie so manie riuers in England are called by this name Stoure, and at
the first supposing that it was growne by the corruption of Dour, the
British word for a streame, I rested thervpon as resolued for a season:
but afterward finding the word to be méere Saxon, and that Stouremare is
a prouince subiect to the duke of Saxonie, I yéelded to another opinion:
whereby I conceiue that the said name was first deriued from the Saxons.
But to returne to our purpose.
Plimmouth it selfe standeth betweene two créeks, not serued with anie
backewater, therefore passing ouer these two, we enter into the Thamar
that dischargeth it selfe into the aforesaid hauen. Going therfore vp
that streame, which for the most part parteth Deuonshire from Cornewall,
Taue or Tauie.
the first riueret that I met withall on the east side is called Tauie,
the head whereof is among the mounteins foure miles aboue Peters Tauie,
beneath which it meeteth with another water from by west, so that these
two waters include Marie Tauie betwéene them, though nothing neere the
confluence. From hence the Taue or Tauie runneth to Tauistocke, aboue
which it taketh in a rill from by west, and another aboue north
Buckland, whose head is in Dartmore, and commeth therevnto by Sandford
and Harrow bridge. From hence it goeth into Thamar, by north Buckland,
moonks Buckland, Beare, and Tamerton follie. Hauing thus dispatched the
Lidde.
Tauie, the next that falleth in on the east side vpwards is the Lidde,
which rising in the hils aboue Lidford, runneth downe by Curriton and
Trushell.
Siddenham, and so to Lidstone, aboue which it receiueth the Trushell
brooke, which rising north east of Brediston, goeth by Trusholton to
Ibaine, where it receiueth a rill that commeth by Bradwood from
Germanswike, and after the confluence runneth to Liston, and from thence
Core.
into the Thamar. The next aboue this is the Corewater, this ariseth
somewhere about Elwell or Helwell, and going by Virginston, runneth on
by saint Giles without anie increase vntill it come to Thamar. Next of
all it taketh in two brookes not much distant in sunder, whereof the one
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commeth in by Glanton, the other from Holsworthie, and both east of
Tamerton, which standeth on the further banke, & other side of the
Thamar, and west northwest of Tedcote, except the quarter deceiue me.
Thamar.
Certes, the Thamar it selfe riseth in Summersetshire, about thrée miles
northeast of Hartland, and in maner so crosseth ouer the whole west
countrie betwéene sea and sea, that it leaueth Cornewall, a byland or
peninsula. Being therefore descended from the head, by a tract of six
miles, it commeth to Denborow, Pancrase well, Bridge Reuell, Tamerton,
Tetcote, Luffencote, Boiton, and Wirrington, where it meeteth with a
Arteie.
water on the west side called Arteie, that riseth short of Jacobstow.
Kenseie.
Two miles in like sort frō this confluence, we met with the Kenseie,
whose head is short of Warpeston by south east: from whence it goeth by
Treneglos, Tremone, Tresmure, Trewen, Lanston, and so into the Thamar,
that runneth from hence by Lowwhitton vnto Bradston, and going on toward
Dunterton, taketh in a rill from south Pitherwijc, and by Lesant;
Enian.
beneath Dunterton also it crosseth the Enian. This riuer riseth at
Dauidston, and directeth his race by saint Clethir, Lancast, and
Trelaske first; and then vnder sundrie bridges, vntill it méet with the
Thamar. From hence also the Thamar goeth by Siddenham to Calstocke
bridge, Calstocke towne, Clifton, Cargreue (there abouts taking in a
créeke aboue Landilip) and running on from thence, hasteth toward
Liuer.
Saltash, where it receiueth the Liuer water. The head of Liuer is about
Broomwellie hill, from whence it goeth on to North hill, Lekenhorne,
South hill, and taking in a rill by east (from aboue Kellington) it
runneth on to Newton, Pillaton, Wootton, Blosfleming, saint Erne, and
beneath this village crosseth a rillet that runneth thither from Bicton
by Quithiocke, saint Germans, and Sheuiocke. But to procéed. After the
confluence, it goeth betweene Erlie and Fro Martine castell, and soone
after taking in a rill from by north, that passeth west of saint
Steuens, it is not long yer it fall into the Thamar, which after this
(receiuing the Milbrooke creeke) goeth on by Edgecombe, and betwéene
saint Michaels Ile and Ridden point into the maine sea. And thus haue I
finished the description of Plimmouth water, and all such falles as are
betwéene Newston rocke on the east side, and the Ram head on the other.
After this we procéeded on with our iournie toward the west, and passing
by Longstone, we came soone after to Sothan baie, where we crossed the
Seton water, whose head is about Liscard, & his course by Minheniet,
Sutton.
Low.
Chafrench, Tregowike, Sutton and so into the sea. Then came we to Low,
and going in betwéene it and Mount Ile, we find that it had a branched
course, and thereto the confluence aboue Low. The chiefe head riseth in
the hils, as it were two miles aboue Gaine, and going by that towne, it
ceaseth not to continue his course east of Dulo, till it come a little
aboue Low, where it crosseth and ioineth with the Brodoke water that
runneth from Brodokes by Trewargo, and so into the sea. Next vnto these
Polpir.
are two other rils, of which one is called Polpir, before we come at
Foy, or Fawy.
Fawie.
Foy or Fawy riuer riseth in Fawy moore, on the side of an hill in Fawy
moore, from whence it runneth by certeine bridges, till it méet with the
Glin.
Glin water west of Glin towne, which rising aboue Temple, & méeting with
a rill that commeth in from S. Neotes, doth fall into Fawy a mile and
more aboue Resprin from by east. After this confluence then, it goeth to
Resprin bridge, Lestermen castell, Lostwithiell bridge, Pill, saint
Lerinus.
Kingtons, saint Winnow, and Golant, and here also receiueth the Lerine
water out of a parke, that taketh his waie into the maine streame by
Biconke, Tethe, and the Fining house. Being thus vnited, it proceedeth
vnto Fawy towne, taking in a rill or creeke from aboue it on the one
side, and another beneath it south of Halling on the other: of which two
this latter is the longest of course, sith it runneth thrée good miles
Faw.
before it come at the Foy. Leland writing of this riuer addeth verie
largelie vnto it after this maner. The Fawy riseth in Fawy moore (about
two miles from Camilford by south, and sixtéene miles from Fawy towne)
in a verie quaue mire on the side of an hill. From hence it goeth to
Drainesbridge, to Clobham bridge, Lergen bridge, New bridge, Resprin
[Page 106]
bridge, and Lostwithiell bridge, where it meeteth with a little brooke,
and néere therevnto parteth it selfe in twaine. Of these two armes
therefore one goeth to a bridge of stone, the other to another of
timber, and soone after ioining againe, the maine riuer goeth to saint
Gwinnowes, from thence also to the point of saint Gwinnowes wood, which
is about halfe a mile from thence, except my memorie dooth faile me.
Here goeth in a salt créeke halfe a mile on the east side of the hauen,
and at the head of it is a bridge called Lerine bridge; the créeke it
selfe in like maner bearing the same denomination.
From Lerine créeke, to S. Caracs pill or créeke, is about halfe a mile,
In the middle of this créeke was a cell of S. Ciret in an
Islet longing sometime to Mountegew a priorie.
and Lower on the east side of the said hauen: it goeth vp also not aboue
a mile and an halfe into the land. From Caracs créeke to Poulmorland a
mile, and this likewise goeth vp scant a quarter of a mile into the
land, yet at the head it parteth it selfe in twaine. From Poulmorland
vnto Bodnecke village halfe a mile, where the passage and repassage is
commonlie to Fawy. From Bodnecke to Pelene point (where a créeke goeth
vp not fullie a thousand paces into the land) a mile, thence to Poulruan
a quarter of a mile, and at this Poulruan is a tower of force, marching
against the tower on Fawy side, betwéene which (as I doo heare) a chaine
hath sometime beene stretched, and likelie inough; for the hauen there
is hardly two bow shot ouer. The verie point of land at the east side of
the mouth of this hauen, is called Pontus crosse, but now Panuche
crosse. It shall not be amisse in this place somewhat to intreat of the
Comwhath.
towne of Fawy, which is called in Cornish Comwhath, and being situat on
the northside of the hauen, is set hanging on a maine rockie hill, being
in length about one quarter of a mile, except my memorie deceiue me.
The renowme of Fawy rose by the wars vnder king Edward the first, Edward
the third, and Henrie the fift, partlie by feats of armes, and partlie
by plaine pirasie. Finallie, the townesmen feeling themselues somwhat at
ease and strong in their purses, they fell to merchandize, and so they
prospered in this their new deuise, that as they trauelled into all
places, so merchants from all countries made resort to them, whereby
within a while they grew to be exceeding rich. The ships of Fawy sailing
on a time by Rhie and Winchelseie in the time of king Edward the third,
refused stoutlie to vale anie bonet there, although warning was giuen
them so to doo by the portgreues or rulers of those townes. Herevpon the
Rhie and Winchelseie men made out vpon them with cut and long taile: but
so hardlie were they interteined by the Fawy pirates (I should saie
aduenturers) that they were driuen home againe with no small losse and
hinderance. Such fauour found the Fawy men also immediatlie vpon this
bickering, that in token of their victorie ouer their winching
aduersaries, and riding ripiers (as they called them in mockerie) they
altered their armes and compounded for new, wherein the scutchion of
Rhie and Winchelseie is quartered with theirs, and beside this the Foyens
Gallants of Foy or Fawy.
were called the gallants of Fawy or Foy, whereof they not a little
reioiced, and more peraduenture than for some greater bootie. And thus
much of Fawy towne, wherein we sée what great successe often commeth of
witlesse and rash aduentures. But to returne againe to our purpose from
whence we haue digressed, and as hauing some desire to finish vp this
our voiage, we will leaue the Fawmouth & go forward on our iournie.
Being therefore past this hauen, we come into Trewardith baie, which
lieth into the land betwéene Canuasse and the Blacke head point, and
here about Leland placeth Vrctoum promontorium. In this we saw the fall
of two small brookes, not one verie far distant from another. The first
of them entring west of Trewardith, the other east of saint Blaies, and
both directlie against Curwarder rocke, except I mistake my compasse.
Neither of them are of anie great course, and the longest not full thrée
miles and an halfe. Wherfore sith they are neither branched nor of anie
great quantitie, what should I make long haruest of a little corne and
spend more time than may well be spared about them?
When we were past the Blacke head, we came to Austell brooke,
Austell.
which is increased with a water that commeth from aboue Mewan, and within a mile
after the confluence, they fall into the sea at Pentoren, from whence we
went by the Blacke rocke, and about the Dudman point, till we came to
[Page 107]
Chare.
Chare haies, where falleth in a pretie water, whose head is two miles
aboue saint Tues. Thence we went by here and there a méere salt créeke,
till we passed the Graie rocke, in Gwindraith baie, and S. Anthonies
point, where Leland maketh his accompt to enter into Falamouth hauen.
The Fala riseth a little by north of Penuenton towne,
Fala.
and going westward
till it come downwards toward saint Dionise, it goeth forth from thence
to Melader, saint Steuens Grampont, Goldon, Crede, Corneleie, Tregue,
Moran, Tregunnan, it falleth into the hauen with a good indifferent
force: and this is the course of Fala. But least I should séeme to omit
those creekes that are betwéene this and S. Anthonies point, I will go a
little backe againe, and fetch in so manie of them, as come now to my
remembrance. Entring therefore into the port, we haue a créeke that
runneth vp by saint Anthonies toward saint Gereus, then another that
goeth into the land by east of saint Maries castell, with a forked head,
passing in the meane time by a great rocke that lieth in the verie midst
of the hauen, in maner of the third point of a triangle, betwéene saint
Maries castell and Pendinant.
Thence we cast about by the said castell, and came by another créeke
that falleth in by east, then the second aboue saint Iustus, the third
at Ardenora, the fourth at Rilan. And hauing as it were visited all
these in order, we came backe againe about by Tregonnian, and then going
vpward betweene it and Taluerne, till we came to Fentangolan, we found
the confluence of two great creekes beneath saint Clements, whereof one
hath a fresh water comming downe by S. Merther, the other another from
Truro, increased with sundrie branches, though not one of them of anie
greatnesse, and therefore vnworthie to be handled. Pole hole standeth
vpon the head almost of the most easterlie of them. S. Kenwen and Truro
stand aboue the confluence of other two. The fourth falleth in by west
from certeine hils: as for the fift and sixt, as they be little créeks
and no fresh, so haue I lesse language and talke to spend about them.
Of saint Caie, and saint Feokes créeke, whose issue is betwéene
S. Caie.
S. Feoks.
Restronget and créeke of Trurie, I sée no cause to make any long spéech;
yet I remember that the towne of S. Feoke standeth betwéene them both.
That also called after this saint, rising aboue Perannarwothill, and
comming thence by Kirklo, falleth into Falamouth, northeast of Milor,
which standeth vpon the point betwéene it and Milor créeke. Milor creeke
Milor.
is next Restronget: some call it Milor poole, from whence we went by
Trefusis point, and there found an other great fall from Perin, which
being branched in the top, hath Perin towne almost in the verie
confluence. And thus much by my collection of the fall. But for somuch
as Leland hath taken some paines in the description of this riuer, I
will not suffer it to perish, sith there is other matter conteined
therein worthie remembrance, although not deliuered in such order as the
thing it selfe requireth.
Fala.
The verie point (saith he) of the hauen mouth (being an hill whereon the
king hath builded a castell) is called Pendinant. It is about a mile in
compasse, almost inuironed with the sea: and where the sea couereth not,
the ground is so low that it were a small mastrie to make Pendinant an
Iland. Furthermore, there lieth a cape or foreland within the hauen a
mile and a halfe, and betwixt this and maister Killigrewes house one
great arme of the hauen runneth vp to Penrine towne, which is three
miles from the verie entrie
Leuine.
of Falamouth hauen, and two good miles from Penfusis. Moreouer there is
Leuine, Priselo, betwixt saint Budocus and Pendinas, which were a good
hauen but for the barre of sand. But to procéed.
The first creeke or arme that casteth on the northwest side of Falemouth
hauen, goeth vp to Perin, and at the end it breaketh into two armes,
whereof the lesse runneth to Glasenith, Viridis nidus, the gréene nest,
or Wagméere at Penrine: the other to saint Glunias the parish church of
Penrine. In like sort out of each side of Penrine créeke, breaketh an
arme yer it come to Penrine. This I vnderstand also that stakes and
foundations of stone haue béene set in the créeke at Penrine a little
lower than the wharfe, where it breaketh into armes: but howsoeuer this
[Page 108]
standeth, betwixt the point of Trefusis and the point of Restronget is
Milor.
Milor créeke, which goeth vp a mile into the land, and by the church is
a good rode for ships. The next creeke beyond the point of Restronget
wood, Restronget. is called Restronget, which going two
miles vp into the maine, breaketh into two armes. In like order betwixt
Restronget and the creeke of Trurie be two créekes; one called saint
S. Feoks.
S. Caie.
Feokes, the other saint Caie, next vnto which is Trurie créeke that
goeth vp about two miles créeking from the principall streame, and
breaketh within halfe a mile of Trurie, casting in a branch westward
euen hard by Newham wood.
Trurie créeke.
This creeke of Trurie is diuided into two parts before the towne of
Trurie, and each of them hauing a brooke comming downe and a bridge, the
towne of Trurie standeth betwixt them both. In like sort Kenwen stréet
is seuered from the said towne with this arme, and Clements street by
east with the other. Out of the bodie also of Trurie creeke breaketh
another eastward a mile from Trurie, and goeth vp a mile and a halfe to
Cresilian bridge of stone. At the verie entrie and mouth of this créeke
is a rode of ships called Maples rode: and here fought not long since
eightéene ships of Spanish merchants, with foure ships of warre of
Deepe, but the Spaniards draue the Frenchmen all into this harborow. A
mile and an halfe aboue the mouth of Crurie creeke, is another named
Moran.
Lhan Moran of S. Morans church at hand. This créeke goeth vp a quarter
of a mile from the maine streame into the hauen, as the maine streame
goeth vp two miles aboue Moran créeke ebbing and flowing: and a quarter
of a mile higher, is the towne of Cregowie, where we found a bridge of
stone vpon the Fala riuer. Fala it selfe riseth a mile or more west of
Roche hill, and goeth by Graund pont, where I saw a bridge of stone.
Graund pont.
This Graund pont is foure miles from Roche hill, and two little miles
from Cregowie, betwixt which the Fala taketh his course. From Cregowie
to passe downe by the bodie of the hauen of Falamouth to the mouth of
Lanie horne pill or créeke, on the south side of the hauen is a mile,
and (as I remember) it goeth vp halfe a mile from the principall streame
of the hauen. From Lanihorne pill also is a place or point of sand about
a mile waie of fortie acres or thereabout (as a peninsula) called
Ardeuerauter. As for the water or créeke that runneth into the south
southeast part, it is but a little thing of halfe a mile vp into the
land, and the créeke that hemmeth in this peninsula, of both dooth seeme
to be the greater. From the mouth of the west creeke of this peninsula,
vnto saint Iustes creeke, is foure miles or more.
S. Iustus.
S. Mawes.
In like maner from saint Iustes pill or créeke (for both signifie one
thing) to saint Mawes creeke is a mile and a halfe, and the point
betwéene them both is called Pendinas. The créeke of saint Mawes goeth
vp a two miles by east northeast into the land, and beside that it
ebbeth and floweth so farre, there is a mill driuen with a fresh créeke
that resorteth to the same. Halfe a mile from the head of this downeward
to the hauen, is a créeke in maner of a poole, whereon is a mill also
that grindeth with the tide. And a mile beneath that on the south side
entereth a créeke (about halfe a mile into the countrie) which is barred
from the maine sea by a small sandie banke, and another mile yet lower,
is an other little créekelet. But how so euer these créekes doo run,
certeine it is that the bankes of them that belong to Fala are
meruellouslie well woodded. And hitherto Leland, whose words I dare not
alter, for feare of corruption and alteration of his iudgement. Being
past Falmouth hauen therefore (as it were a quarter of a mile beyond
Arwennach, maister Killegrewes place which standeth on the brimme or
shore within Falmouth) we came to a little hauen which ran vp betwéene
two hilles, but it was barred: wherefore we could not learne whether it
were serued with anie backe fresh water or not.
Polwitherall.
From thence we went by Polwitherall creeke (parted into two armes) then
Polpenrith.
to the Polpenrith, wherevnto a riueret falleth that riseth not farre
from thence, and so goeth to the maine streame of the hauen at the last,
whither the créeke resorteth about thrée miles and more from the mouth
of the hauen, and into which the water that goeth vnder Gare bridges,
[Page 109]
doo fall in one bottome (as Leland hath reported.) Vnto this hauen
Wike.
Gare.
Mogun.
Penkestell.
Callous.
Cheilow.
Gilling.
also repaireth the Penkestell, the Callous, the Cheilow, and the
Gilling, although this latter lieth against saint Mawuons on the hither
side hard without the hauen mouth (if I haue doone aright.) For so
motheaten, mouldie, & rotten are those bookes of Leland which I haue,
and beside that, his annotations are such and so confounded, as no man
can (in a maner) picke out anie sense from them by a leafe togither.
Wherefore I suppose that he dispersed and made his notes intricate of
set purpose: or else he was loth that anie man should easilie come to
that knowledge by reading, which he with his great charge & no lesse
trauell attained vnto by experience. Thus leauing Fala hauen, as more
troublesome for me to describe, than profitable for seafaring men,
without good aduise to enter into, we left the rocke on our left hand,
and came straight southwest to Helford hauen, whose water commeth downe
Haile.
from Wréeke (where is a confluence of two small rilles whereof that rill
consisteth) by Mawgan and Trelawarren, and then it receiueth a rill on
the north ripe from Constantine, after whose confluence it goeth a maine
vntill it come to the Ocean, where the mouth is spoiled by sand comming
from the tinworks. See Leland in the life of S. Breaca. Beneath this
also is another rill comming from S. Martyrs, by whose course, and
another ouer against it on the west side that falleth into the sea by
Winniton, all Menage is left almost in maner of an Iland. From hence we
go south to the Manacle point, then southwest to Lisard, and so north
and by west to Predannocke points, beyond which we méet with the fall of
the said water that riseth in the edge of Menag, and goeth into the sea
by Melien on the north, and Winniton on the south. By north also of
Curie.
Winniton is the Curie water that runneth short of Magan, and toucheth
with the Ocean south of Pengwenian point.
Loo.
From hence we sailed to the Loo mouth, which some call Lopoole, because
it is narrower at the fall into the sea, than it is betwéene the sea and
Hailston. It riseth aboue S. Sethians, and comming downe by Wendron, it
hasteth to Hailston or Helston, from whence onelie it is called Loo: but
betwéene Helston and the head, men call it commonlie Cohor. Of this
riuer Leland saith thus: The Lopoole is two miles in length, and betwixt
it and the maine Ocean is but a barre of sand that once in thrée or
foure yéeres, what by weight of the fresh water, and working of the sea
breaketh out, at which time it maketh a wonderfull noise: but soone
after the mouth of it is barred vp againe. At all other times the
superfluitie of the water of Lopole (which is full of trout and éele)
draineth out through the sandie barre into the open sea: certes if this
barre could alwaies be kept open, it would make a goodlie hauen vp vnto
Haileston towne, where coinage of tin is also vsed, as at Trurie and
Lostwithiell, for the quéenes aduantage.
Being passed the Loo, I came to another water that descendeth without
Simneie.
anie increase from Crowan by Simneie, whose whole course is not aboue
thrée miles in all. Then going by the Cuddan point, we entered the
mounts Baie, and going streight north (leauing S. Michaels mount a
Lid.
little vpon the left hand) we came to the Lid, which rising short of
Tewidnacke, descendeth by Lidgenan, and so into the sea. Certes the
course of these waters cannot be long, sith in this verie place this
breadth of land is not aboue foure miles, and not more than fiue at the
verie lands end. There is also a rill east of Korugie, and Guluall, and
another west of the same hard at hand, and likewise the third east of
Pensants: and not a full quarter of a mile from the second, southwest of
Pensants also lieth the fourth that commeth from Sancrete ward by
Newlin, from whence going southwest out of the baie by Moushole Ile,
that lieth south of Moushole towne, we come to a water that entreth into
the Ocean betwixt Remels & Lamorleie point. Trulie the one head thereof
commeth from by west of Sancrete, the other from by west of an hill that
standeth betwéene them both, and ioining aboue Remels, it is not long
yer they salute their grandame. After this, and before we come at
Rosecastell, there are two other créekes, whereof one is called
Boskennie, that riseth south of saint Buriens, and an other somewhat
longer than the first, that issueth by west of the aforesaid towne,
wherein is to be noted, that our cards made heretofore doo appoint
[Page 110]
S. Buriens to be at the very lands end of Cornewall, but experience now
teacheth vs, that it commeth not néere the lands end by thrée miles.
This latter rill also is the last that I doo reade of on the south side,
and likewise on the west and north, till we haue sailed to S. Ies baie,
Bresan Ile.
which is full ten miles from the lands end, or Bresan Ile eastward, &
rather more, if you reckon to the fall of the Haile, which lieth in the
very middest and highest part of the baie of the same. The soile also is
verie hillie here, as for saint Ies towne, it is almost (as I said) a
byland, and yet is it well watered with sundrie rilles that come from
those hilles vnto the same.
Haile.
The Haile riseth in such maner, and from so manie heads, as I haue
before said: howbeit I will adde somewhat more vnto it, for the benefit
of my readers. Certes the chéefe head of Haile riseth by west of
Goodalfin hilles, and going downe toward saint Erthes, it receiueth the
second, and best of the other three rilles from Goodalfin towne:
finallie, comming to saint Erthes, and so vnto the maine baie, it taketh
Clowart.
in the Clowart water from Guimer, south of Phelacke, which hath two
heads, the said village standing directlie betwixt them both.
Caine.
The Caine riseth southeast of Caineburne towne a mile and more, from
whence it goeth without increase by west of Gwethian, and so into the
sea west of Mara Darwaie. From hence we coasted about the point, & left
the baie till we came to a water that riseth of two heads from those
hilles that lie by south of the same: one of them also runneth by saint
Vni, another by Redreuth, and méeting within a mile, they fall into the
Luggam.
Ocean beneath Luggam or Tuggan. A mile and a halfe from this fall we
come vnto another small rill, and likewise two other créekes, betwixt
which the towne of saint Agnes standeth; and likewise the fourth halfe a
mile beyond the most easterlie of these, whose head is almost thrée
miles within the land in a towne called saint Alin. Thence going by the
Manrocke, and west of saint Piran in the sand, we find a course of thrée
miles and more from the head, and hauing a forked branch, the parts doo
méet at west aboue saint Kibbard, and so go into the sea. I take this to
S. Pirans créeke. Carantocke.
be saint Pirans créeke, for the next is Carantocke pill or créeke, whose
head is at Guswarth, from whence it goeth vnto Trerise, and soone after
taking in a rill from by west, it runneth into the sea coast of saint
Carantakes. Beyond this is another créeke that riseth aboue little saint
Colan, and goeth by lesse saint Columbe: and east and by north hereof
commeth downe one more whose head is almost south of the Nine stones, &
going from thence to great saint Columbes, it passeth by Lamberne, and
so into the sea. S. Merous créeke is but a little one, rising west of
Padstow, and falling in almost ouer against the Gull rocke. Then turning
Padstow.
Locus bufonis.
betwéene the point and the blacke rocke,we entred into Padstow hauen
thrée miles lower than port Issec, and a mile from port Ewin, whose
waters remaine next of all to be described.
Alannus.
The Alan ariseth flat east from the hauen mouth of Padstow, well néere
Eniam.
eight or nine miles about Dauidstone, neere vnto which the Eniam also
issueth, that runneth into the Thamar. Going therefore from hence it
passeth to Camelford, saint Aduen, saint Bernard (both Cornish saints)
and soone after receiueth a rill at northeast, descending from Rowters
hill. Thence it goeth to Bliseland, and Helham, the first bridge of name
that standeth vpon Alin. Yer long also it taketh in one rill by south
from Bodman, another from saint Laurence, the third by west of this, and
the fourth that commeth by Wethiell, no one of them excéeding the course
of thrée miles, and all by south. From hence it goeth toward
Iglesaleward, and there receiueth a water on the east side, which
commeth about two miles from saint Teath, by Michelston, saint Tuchoe,
saint Maben (mo Cornish patrons) and finallie south of Iglesall, méeteth
with the Alen that goeth from thence by S. Breaca to Woodbridge.
Hereabout I find, that into our Alein or Alen, there should fall two
Carneseie.
Laine.
riuerets, whereof the one is called Carneseie, the other Laine, and
comming in the end to full notice of the matter, I sée them to issue on
seuerall sides beneath Woodbridge almost directlie the one against the
other. That which descendeth from northwest, and riseth about saint Kew,
is named Carneseie, as I heare: the other that commeth in on the
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southwest banke hight Laine, and noted by Leland to rise two miles aboue
S. Esse. But howsoeuer this matter standeth, there are two other créekes
Pethrike.
Minner.
Dunmere.
on ech side also, beneath these, as Pethrike creeke, and Minner créeke
(so called of the Cornish saints) for that soile bred manie, wherewith I
finish the description of Alen, or (as some call it) Dunmere, and other
Padstow water.
From Padstow hauen also they saile out full west to Waterford in
Ireland. There are likewise two rockes, which lie in the east side of
the hauen, secretlie hidden at full sea, as two pads in the straw,
whereof I think it taketh the name. Yet I remember how I haue read that
Padstow is a corrupted word for Adlestow, and should signifie so much as
Athelstani locus, as it may well be. For it is euident that they had in
time past sundrie charters of priuilege from Athelstane, although at
this present it be well stored with Irishmen. But to our purpose. Leland
supposed this riuer to be the same Camblan, where Arthur fought his last
and fatall conflict: for to this daie men that doo eare the ground
there, doo oft plow vp bones of a large size, and great store of armour,
or else it may be (as I rather coniecture) that the Romans had some
field (or Castra) thereabout, for not long since (and in the remembrance
of man) a brasse pot full of Romane coine was found there, as I haue
often heard. Being thus passed Padstow hauen, and after we had gone
three miles from hence, we came to Portgwin a poore fisher towne, where
I find a brooke and a péere. Then I came to Portissec aliàs Cunilus two
miles further, and found there a brooke, a péere, and some succor for
fisher boats. Next of all vnto a brooke that ran from south east,
directlie north into the Sauerne sea, and within halfe a mile of the
same laie a great blacke rocke like an Iland. From this water to
Treuenni is about a mile, where the paroch church is dedicated to saint
Simphorian, and in which paroch also Tintagell or Dundagie castell
standeth, which is a thing inexpugnable for the situation, and would be
made with little reparations one of the strongest things in England. For
it standeth on a great high terrible crag inuironed with the sea. There
is a chappell yet standing in the dungeon thereof, dedicated to saint
Vlet. Tintagell towne and Treuenni are not a mile in sunder.
Tredwie.
The next créeke is called Bosinni, which is a mile from Tintagell, and
to the same Tredwie water resorteth, and so they go to the sea betwixt
two hils, whereof that on the one side lieth out like an arme or cape,
and maketh the fashion of an hauenet or peere, whither shiplets sometime
doo resort for succour. A frier of late daies tooke vpon him to make an
hauen at this place, but in vaine. There lie also two blacke rocks as
Ilets, at the west northwest point, or side of this créeke, the one
(sauing that a little gut dooth part them) ioining with the other, and
in these by all likelihood is great store of gulles. I can not tell
whether this be the water that runneth by Boscastell or not, but if it
Boscastell.
be not, then haue I this description of the latter. Boscastell créeke
that lieth east of Tintagell, is but a small thing, running at the most
not aboue two miles into the land, yet it passeth by foure townes,
whereof the first is called Lesneth, the second saint Juliet, the third
Minster, and the fourth Boscastell or Bushcastell, as some men doo
pronounce it.
Bede.
In Bede baie I find the Bedewater, whose chiefe head is not farre from
Lancels.
Norton. Thence running to Stratton, it receiueth the Lancels rill before
it come at Norham. And here also it crosseth another whose head is east
of saint Marie wijke, from whence it runneth by Wolston and Whalesborow,
and thence into the sea betweene Efford and Plough hill. And thus much
of the waters that lie betwéene the point of Cornewall, and the Hartland
head vpon the north side of Cornewall. Now let vs doo the like with
those that remaine of Deuonshire, whereo the said Hartland is the verie
first point in this our poeticall voiage. Hauing therefore brought
Hartland point on our backs, we come next of all to Barstable bar, and
so into the hauen, whereinto two principall streams doo perpetuallie
vnburden their chanels.
Ocus.
The first and more westerlie of these is called Ocus, whose head is not
farre west of the head of Darnt, and Loth in Darntmore. Rising therefore
in the aforesaid place, it runneth northwest to Snorton, and so to
Okehampton, beneath which towne it méeteth with an other water comming
from southeast, & riseth not much west from the head of Tawe. From hence
[Page 112]
it goeth to Stow Exborne, Moonke Okington, & Iddesleie, where it taketh
Tanridge.
Turrege.
in the Tanridge a verie pretie streamelet, whose issue is not full a mile
by east from the head of Thamar, thrée miles by north east from
Hartland. Comming therefore by west and east Putford, Bulworthie,
Bockington, Newton, and Shebbor, it receiueth a forked rill that runneth
from ech side of Bradworthie by Sutcombe, Treborow, Milton, & so to
Thornebirie, where méeting with an other forked water (whereof one head
comming from Dunsland, ioineth with the other north of Cockbirie) it
goeth with speed into the Tanridge water. After this confluence it
Buckland.
runneth on to Shéepewash (by west whereof falleth in the Buckland water
from by north) thence to high Hainton, and so to Haitherlaie, north
wherof it taketh in a rill from by south, and endeth his race at
Iddesleie, by ioining with the Oke. Hence then the Ocus hasteth to
Dowland, and betwéene it and Doulton, receiueth one rill from by east,
as it dooth an other betwéene Doulton and Marton from by west, and so
procéeding on with his course, it commeth east of Torrington the lesse,
and taking in a water at east, that runneth from thrée heads (by Wollie
parke) betweene which Combe and Roughborow are situat, it descendeth to
Langtrée.
Torington the more, and meeting with the Langtrée water on the one side,
Were or Ware.
and the Ware brooke on the other, it procéedeth to Bediford, crossing a
rill by the waie that commeth vnto it betwéene Annarie & Littham. From
Bediford bridge it goeth without anie increase to Westleie, Norham,
Appledoure, and so into the hauen.
Taw.
The Taw of both is the more noble water, notwithstanding that his hauen
be barred with sand; and thereby dangerous, and hath most rils
descending into his chanell. Howbeit, by these two is all the hart of
Deuonshire well watered on the northside of the moores. The Tawy riseth
directlie at south west of Throwlie, and north of the head of Darnt, or
(as Leland saith) in Exmore south east from Barstable. From thence also
it runneth to Sele, South Taueton, Cockatre, Bath, Northtaueton,
Ashridge, Colridge, and soone after receiueth the Bowmill créeke, wherof
Bowmill.
one head riseth at Bow, the other at Mill, and meeting beneth Bishops
Morchard, they fall into the Taw north of Nimeth Rowland, as I haue
béene informed. From hence then it runneth by Edgeforth, to Chimligh, by
south whereof it méeteth with a rill comming downe of two heads from
about Rakenford, by Wetheridge and Chawleie. Thence it goeth to
Moulebraie.
Burrington, and Chiltenholtwood, and there taketh in the Moulebraie
water consisting of two in one chanell, wherof the Moll dooth rise aboue
north Moulton, and comming to Moulton receiueth another rill running
from Molland, and soone after the second that growing by two brookes
(the head of one being at Knawston, and of the other west of Crokeham,
and both vniting themselues beneath Mariston) dooth fall into the same
yer long also, and so go togither till it crosse the Braie, which (being
Braie.
the second of the two that maketh the Moulbraie) riseth at Braie,
commeth by Buckland, and south of Holtwood dooth make his confluence
with Taw. Being past the wood, it goeth on to Brightleie hall, Taueton,
Tauestocke, & Berstable, sometime a pretie walled towne with foure
gates, but now a little thing; and such in déed, as that the suburbes
thereof are greater than it selfe. I suppose that the name of this towne
in the British speach was Abertaw, bicause it stood toward the mouth of
Taw, and Berdnesse pronounced short (as I gesse) for Abernesse. As for
Staple, it is an addition for a market, & therefore hath nothing to doo
in the proper name of the towne. King Athelstane is taken here for the
chiefe priuileger of the towne. This is also worthie to be noted hereof,
that the houses there are of stone, as most are in all the good townes
thereabout.
But to proceed with our purpose. Beneath this towne there falleth in a
water that hath one head néere about Challacombe, & another at east
Downe, whereof this descending by Stoke riuer, and the other by
Sherwell, they vnite themselues within thrée miles of Berstaple. Soone
after also it taketh in another that descendeth from Bitenden by
Ashford, and the last of all east of saint Anthonies chappell, named the
Doneham.
Doneham, bicause one head is at west Done, and the other at Ham, both of
them méeting west of Ash. And thus is Taue described, which is no great
water nor quicke streame, as may appéere in Low water marke at Berstable
and yet is it a pretie riueret. This also is worthie to be noted
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thereof, that it receiueth no brooke from by west, whereof I would
somewhat maruell, if Taurige were not at hand.
Being past the Taue, Cride baie and Bugpoint aliàs Bagpoint, we go by
More baie, Morstone aliàs Mortstone, and then toward the northeast, till
we come by a créekelet to Ilfare combe, & so to Combe Marton, whereat (I
meane ech of them) are sundrie créekes of salt water, but not serued
with anie fresh that I as yet doo heare of. Marrie there is betwéene
Martinbow & Trensow, a créeke that hath a backewater, which descendeth
Paradine.
from Parracombe (so farre as I call to mind named Parradine becke) but
Orus.
the greatest of all is betweene Linton and Connisberie called Ore, which
riseth in Summersetshire in Exmore (east of Hore oke, more than a mile)
and going by Owre, falleth into the sea betwéene Linton and Conisberie,
so that the whole race thereof amounteth in and out to an eight miles,
as I haue heard reported. Thus haue I finished the discourse of the
The bredth of Deuonshire & Cornewall.
waters of Deuonshire, whose breadth in this place from hence ouerthwart
to the Checkstones in the mouth of Ex, on the south side of the Ile, is
eight and thirtie miles or vnder fortie, and so much likewise is it from
Plimmouth to Hartland point, but the broadest part there commeth to six
and thirtie miles, whereas the broadest part of Cornewall doth want two
miles of fortie.
Being past the aforesaid limits of the counties we came to Portlochbaie,
Loch.
whither commeth a water named Loch that descendeth from Stokepero,
Durus.
Lucham and Portloch without increase. Thence to Dunsteir brooke, which
runneth from about Wootton, and Courtneie by Tunbercombe and Dunsteir,
then to another that commeth west of Old Cliffe, leauing a parke on the
Vacetus.
west side, next of all to Watchet water, whereof one head commeth from
the Quantocke hils south of Bickualer by Westquantocke head, and almost
Williton.
at Doniford, receiueth the Williton becke, then to east Quantocke brooke
Doddington.
(omitting a créeket) & next of all to Doddington water, that goeth by
Holford, Alfoxton, and afterward into the sea. From hence we go by
Bottesall point, to Stert point, where two noble riuers doo make their
confluence, which I will seuerallie describe, as to my purpose
apperteineth.
Iuelus.
The first of these is called the Iuell, or (as I find it in an ancient
writer) Yoo, who saith that the riuer Yoo dooth runne from Ilchester to
Bridgewater, and so into the sea. It riseth aboue Oburne, and at
Shirburne receiueth a water, whereof Leland saith thus. There are seuen
The seuen sisters.
springs in an hill called the seuen sisters, north east from Shireburne,
which gather into one bottome, & come into the Mere. Another brooke
likewise commeth by Heidon from Puscandell, three miles from thence by
flat east, betwixt the parke and the Mere full so great as the streame
of the Mere, and ioining at the lower mill of Shireburne, with the Mere
water, it is not long yer it fall into the Euill. Thence our Euill goeth
on towards Glasen Bradford, and yer it come there taketh in a forked
rill from by south, descending from about west Chelburie and Chetnall in
Dorsetshire, beneath which towne the other head falleth into the same,
so that they run foorth by Bearhaggard and Thorneford (till they méet
with the Iuell) and so to Clifton, Euill a proper market towne, Trent,
Cade.
Mutford, Ashinton, and east of Limminton it méeteth with the Cade that
runneth from Yarlington, by north Cadbirie, and soone after crossing a
rill also from by east, that commeth from Blackeford by Compton, it
hasteth to south Cadbirie, Sparkeford, Queenes Camell, west Camell, and
so into Iuell, which runneth on to Kimmington, Ilchester, Ilbridge, long
Sutton, and yer it come at Langport, taketh in two famous waters in one
chanell, next of all to be remembred before I go anie further. The first
of all these riseth southeast betwéene the Parrets (where it is called
Parret.
Parret water) and goeth to Crokehorne, and at Meriot taketh in a brooke
from the east, which consisteth of two courses vnited at Bowbridge,
whereof the one descendeth from Pen by Hasilburie, the other from aboue
the thrée Chenocks, as I doo vnderstand.
From hence also they go as one with the Parret water, toward south
Pederton (taking in at east a becke comming from Hamden hill) thence to
Pederton, Lambrooke, Thorneie bridge, and Muchelneie where it méeteth
Ill.
with the second called Ill or Ilus, whose head is aboue Chellington, &
comming downe from thence by Cadworth, before it come at Dunniet, it
taketh in a rill that runneth by Chascombe and Knoll. Thence leauing
[Page 114]
Ilmister on the east side, it meeteth with another from by east,
descending from about Whitlakington. Then it goeth to Pokington (where it
Ilton.
crosseth the Ilton water by west) next to Ilbruers, and there it ioineth
with a rillet that riseth by west at Staple, and runneth by Bicknell and
Abbats Ilie, and after this confluence goeth on toward Langport. And
here after some mens opinion, the Iuell looseth his name, and is called
Parret: but this coniecture cannot hold, sith in the old writers it is
called Iuell, till it fall into the sea. Neuerthelesse, how soeuer this
matter standeth, being past Langport, it goeth by Awber toward saint
Anthonies, where it méeteth with the Tone next of all to be described.
Tone.
The Tone issueth at Clatworthie, and goeth by west of Wiuelscombe, to
Stawleie, Ritford, Runton, Wellington and Bradford, beneath which it
taketh in a faire water cōming from Sanford Combe, Elworthie, Brunt
Rafe, Miluerton, Oke and Hilfarens. After this confluence also it
runneth to Helebridge, and there below méeteth with one water that
runneth by Hawse, Hethford, and Norton, then another from Crokeham by
bishops Slediard, and the third & fourth at Taunton, that descendeth
from Kingston by north, and another by south that riseth about
Pidmister. And thus is the Tone increased, which goeth from Taunton to
Riston, Crech, Northcurrie, Ling, and so by Anthonie into the Iuell,
Chare or Care.
that after this confluence méeteth yer long with the Chare, a pretie
riuer that commeth by east from Northborow, by Carleton, Badcare,
Litecare, Somerton, Higham, Audrie moore, Audrie, and Michelsborow. From
whence going on betweene Quéenes moore and North moore, it receiueth one
Peder.
brooke called Peder from by southwest, that runneth through Pederton
parke and North moore; and likewise another that passeth by Durleie, yer
it doo come at Bridgewater. From Bridgewater it goeth by Chilton
directlie northwest, and then turning flat west, it goeth northward
towards the sea, taking in two waters by the waie, whereof one runneth
Camington.
by Coripole & Camington, and beareth the name of Camington, the other by
Brier.
Siddington and Comage, and then receiuing the Brier before it come at
Start point, they fall as one into the Ocean, whereof let this suffice
for the description of the Iuell, whose streame dooth water all the west
part of Summersetshire and leaueth it verie fruitfull.
Brier.
The Brier, Bruer, or Bréer, riseth of two waters, wherof one is in
Selwood forest, & commeth downe by Bruecombe, Bruham, and Bruton. The
Leland writeth the first Brieuelus and the second
Mellodunus or the Milton water.
other which Leland nameth Mellos, is northest of Staffordell towne, and
going by the same, it runneth by Redlinch, to Wike; where it méeteth
with the other head, and thence go on as one to Awnsford, Alford (where
Dulis.
it taketh in a water called Dulis from by north that riseth néere
Dolting, and commeth by Euerchurch parke) then to the Lidfords, Basborow
wood, the Torhill, Pont perilous (whereinto they fable that Arthur being
wounded to death did throw Calibur his sword) by Glastenburie and so into
the Méere. Beside this riuer there are two other also that fall into the
Sowaie or Stowaie.
said Méere, whereof the one called Sowaie commeth from Créechurch parke,
Cos.
and Pulton by Hartlacke bridge, the other named Cos or the Coscombe
water, from aboue Shepton, Mallet (which east of Wike taketh in a water
comming from Welles) by Wike, Gedneie, and so into the Méere. Finallie,
returning all into one chanell, it runneth to Burtlehouse, and soone
after diuiding it selfe, one arme goeth by Bastian aliàs Brent bridge,
to High bridge, leauing Huntspill a market towne by southwest, the other
by Marke to Rokes bridge, Hebbes passage, and so into the sea, leauing a
faire Iland, wherin beside Brentmarsh are seuen or eight townes, of
whose names I haue no knowledge.
Now as touching the water that commeth from Welles, which falleth (as I
said) into the Coscombe water on the right hand of the Cawseie; you shall
vnderstand that as manie springs are in Wels, so the chiefe of them is
named Andres well, which riseth in a medow plat not farre from the east
end of the cathedrall church, and afterward goeth into the Coscombe, in
Milton.
Golafer.
such place as I haue noted. Leland speaketh of the Milton & Golafer
waters, which should fall likewise into the Brier: but whether those be
they whereof the one riseth aboue Staffordell, and in the descent
runneth by Shipton, Pitcombe, and so to Awnsford on the one side, as the
other dooth rise betwéene Batcombe and Vpton noble on the other halfe;
or vnto whether of them either of these names are seuerallie to be
attributed: as yet I doo not read.
[Page 115]
Axe. 2.
The second Axe which commeth by Axe towne in old time called Vexa,
issueth out of Owkie hole, from whence it goeth by Owkie towne, afterward
The Chederbrooke, driueth twelue miles within a quarter of
a mile of his head.
meeting with the Chederbrooke that commeth from the Cheder rocks,
wherein is an hole in old time called Carcer Æoli, wherof much hath
béene written & surmised past credit. It runneth by Were, Ratcliffe, and
after a little compasse into the northeast branch of the aforesaid riuer
last described, betweene Rokes bridge and Hebbes passage, as I haue
beene informed. From the fall of Axe we come to an other called Bane,
Bane.
northeast of Woodspring, whose head is about Banwell parke, or else in
Artro.
Smaldon wood. Then to an other, and to the third, called Artro, which
riseth about Litton, and going by the Artroes, Vbbeie, Perribridge
(receiuing a rill yer it come thither from by south) beneath
Cungesbirie, or (as I learne) betwéene Kingston and Laurence Wike, it
méeteth with the sea.
Sottespill water riseth betwéene Cheueleie and Naileseie, Sottespill.
howbeit it
hath no increase before it come into the sea at Sottespill, more than
Cleueden.
the next vnto it, which is named Cleueden water, of a certeine towne
neere to the fall thereof. It riseth southeast of Barrow, goeth by
Auon. 3.
Burton Naileseie, and so vnto Cleuedon. The Auon, commonlie called the
third Auon, is a goodlie water, and growne to be verie famous by sundrie
occasions, to be particularlie touched in our description of Bristow.
Yet thus much will I note héere thereof as a rare accident, how that in
king Edgars daies, the verie same yeare that the old monasterie of
Euesham fell downe by itselfe, a porpasse was taken therein neere to the
said monasterie, and neuer anie before or since that time heard of to
haue béene found in that streame. And euen so not manie yeares before I
Sturgion taken in Rochester water.
first wrote this treatise, a sturgion was taken aliue in Rochester
streame, which the bishop gaue vnto your honor, and you would as gladlie
haue sent it to the quéenes maiestie, if she might haue béene presented
withall aliue as it was taken. Certes both these rare occurrents gaue no
lesse occasion of strange surmises to the inhabitants of both places,
than the blockes of Brerton, when they appeare, doo vnto that familie;
of which the report goeth that they are neuer séene but against some
mischéefe or other to befall vnto that house. But how farre am I gone
from my purpose?
The Auon therefore riseth in the verie edge of Tetburie, and goeth by
long Newton to Brokenton, Whitchurch, and Malmsburie, where it receiueth
two waters, that is to saie, one from by west comming by Foreleie and
Bromleham, which runneth so néere to the Auon in the west suburbe of
Malmsburie, that the towne thereby is almost made an Iland. Another from
Okeseie parke by Hankerton, Charleton, and Garesden. After this
confluence it hasteth to Cole parke, then goeth it toward the southeast,
till it méet with a water comming from southwest (betwéene Hullauington
and Bradfield) by Aston: and soone after with another at the northside
from Binall by Wootton Basset (through the parke to Gretenham, and
Idouer bridges) and after the confluence to Dauntseie, Segar, Sutton,
Christmalford, Auon, Calwaies house, and then to west Tetherton. Beneath
this towne also it taketh in a water increased by two brookes, whereof
one comming from Cleue by Hilmarton, Whitleie house and Bramble (and
there receiuing another that commeth by Calne) passeth on by Stanlie
into the Auon, which from thencefoorth goeth to Chippenham, Rowdon,
Cosham.
Lekham, and then receiuing Cosham water, goeth to Lacocke, Melsham, and
yer it come at Whaddon, crosseth two other in one chanell, whereof one
riseth about Brumham house, and goeth to Sene, the other about the
Diuizes, and from thence runneth to Potterne wood, Creeke wood, Worton,
Maston, Bucklington, and ioining with the other aboue Litleton, they run
by Semmington, and north of Whaddon aforesaid into the maine streame,
whereof I now intreat. From hence our Auon runneth to Stauerton, and
Were.
southwest of that towne méeteth with the Were that commeth from Vpton by
Westbirie vnder the plaine,
neuer without a théefe or twaine.
Dilton, Brooke parke (there crossing a rill called Bisse from Westbirie
vnder the plaine) then to north Bradleie, Trubridge, and so into Auon
that goeth from thence to Bradford, & within a mile or thereabouts,
before it come at Freshford, it méeteth with the Frome, whose
description dooth insue.
Frome.
The Frome riseth in the east part of Mendip hils, and from thence
runneth by Astwijc, the Cole pits, Lie vnder Mendip, Whateleie,
[Page 116]
Nonneie.
Elmesbridge, and soone after taketh in the Nonneie water, comming from
Nonneie castell, thence to Walles and Orcharleie bridge, where it
receiueth a pretie brooke descending from Frome Selwood west of
Brackleie, increased with sundrie rils, whereof two come out of Selwood
forrest (and one of them from the Fratrie) another out of Long lead
parke, from Horningsham, and the fourth from Cosleie. Hence our Frome
goeth to Lullington, Beckington, Farleie castell, Bord and Fresh foord,
Silling.
and taking in the Silling brooke, falleth into the Auon beneath
Bradford, and east of Freshford. From thence going beneath Stoke, it
receiueth on the left hand a water comming from southwest, increased by
sundrie brookes, whereof one commeth from Camelet by Litleton, and
Dankerton, the other from Stone Eston, Midsummer Norton, by Welston,
Rodstocke, Wrigleton, Foscot, and Wellow, and there (taking in a rill
from Phillips Norton) it goeth by Clauerton to Hampton, and there it
méeteth with another water comming from Barthford, whose head is at
Litleton from whence it runneth by west Kineton to Castell combe (where
it ioineth with a rill rising by north from Litleton drue) and thence
commeth south to Slaughtenford, Haselburie, Box, Baithford, and so into
the Auon, which turning plaine west, hasteth to Baithwijc, and (meeting
with another in his passage from Caldaston) to Bath, the Tiuertons, and
Coston.
Héere also it taketh in a rill by the waie from Markesburie by Wilmerton
and Newton, and then going on to Sawford, it méeteth with one rill soone
Swinford.
west of Northstocke, named Swinford, and another by Bitton, from Durhain
by Wike, and so procéedeth still holding on his way to Caimsham, a towne
Swinford parteth Summerset & Glocestershires in sunder.
in Summerset shire (so called of Caim an English saint, by whose
praiers, as the countrie once beléeued, all the adders, snakes and
serpents were turned into stone, their formes reserued, and for a
certeine space of ground about the said towne, and whereof some store as
yet is to be found in those quaries. But this miracle is so true as the
historie of Hilda, or that S. Patrike should chase all venemous
creatures out of Italie, with his staffe; or that maid Radegund should
driue the crowes to the pound, which did annoie hir corne while she went
vnto a chappell to heare & sée a masse) where it crosseth the Chute,
which issueth at Winford, and goeth by bishops Chue to Penford, and
there receiueth the Clue comming from Cluton, and from thence to Chute,
& so into the Auon. The Auon likewise after all these confluences goeth
to Briselton, and so to Bristow, beneath which it receiueth a rill on
each side (wherof one commeth from about Stoke lodge in Glocestershire,
being a faire water and running by Acton, Frampton, Hambroch, Stapleton,
and through Bristow, the other by south from Dundreie hill and towne, by
Bisport and Bedminster) and so descending yet lower, goeth to Rawneham
passage and Clifton, then by S. Vincents rocke and Laie, next of all to
Crocampill, and finallie into the sea, whither all waters by nature doo
resort.
Alderleie.
Beside this water, Leland maketh mention of Alderleie brooke, which in
some ancient records is also called Auon, and runneth by Barkeleie. In
Douresleie.
like maner he talketh of Douresleie becke, whose principall head is in
Douresleie towne: howbeit he saith no thing of it more, than that it
Torworth.
serueth sundrie tucking lucking milles, and goeth by Tortworth or foure
miles further, before it come at the Sauerne. Finallie, making mention
of an excellent quarrie of hard stone about Douresleie, he telleth of
the Tortworth becke, that runneth within a flight shot of Barkeleie
towne, and falleth on the left hand into Sauerne marches, taking with
all the Alderleie or Auon, except I mistake his meaning, which may soone
be doone among his confused notes.
[Page 117]
Sauerne.
The Sauerne which Ptolomie calleth Sabriana, Tacitus Sabrina, diuideth
England or that part of the Iland, which sometime was called Lhoegres
from Cambria, so called of Camber, the second sonne of Brute, as our
histories doo report. But now that region hight Wales, of the Germane
word Walsh, whereby that nation dooth vse to call all strangers without
respect of countrie. This riuer tooke the name of a certeine ladie,
called Habren or Hafren, base daughter to Locrinus begotten vpon
Estrildis daughter to Humber otherwise called Cumbrus or Vmar, and for
which some write Chonibrus king of Scithia, that sometime inuaded this
Island, and was ouerthrowne here in the daies of this Locrinus, as shall
be shewed at hand: although I suppose rather that this ladie was called
Ine, and that the word Sabrina is compounded of Aber and Ine, and the
letter S added "Propter euphoniam:" for the mouth or fall of euerie
riuer in the British spéech is called Aber, whereby Aber Ine is so much
to saie as, the fall of Ine. But let vs returne againe to our discourse
of Humber or Vmar, which is worthie to be remembred.
For after the death of Locrinus, it came to passe that Guendolena his
wife ruled the kingdome in the nonage of hir sonne: and then getting the
said Estrildis and Habren hir daughter into hir hands, she drowned them
both in this riuer. And in perpetuall remembrance of hir husbands
disloialtie towards hir, she caused the streame to be called Habren of
the yoong ladie, for which the Romans in processe of time for readinesse
and mildnesse of pronunciation, wrote Sabrina, and we at this time doo
pronounce the Sauerne. Of the drowning of the said Abren also I find
these verses insuing:
In fluuium præcipitatur Abren,
Nomen Abren, fluuio de virgine, nomen eidem
Nomine corrupto deinde Sabrina datur.
But to returne to our Sauerne. It falleth into the maine sea betweene
Wales and Cornewall, which is and shall be called the Sauerne sea, so
long as the riuer dooth keepe hir name. But as the said streame in
length of course, bountie of water, and depth of chanell commeth farre
behind the Thames: so for other commodities, as trade of merchandize,
plentie of cariage, & store of all kind of fish, as salmon, trouts,
breames, pikerell, tench, perch, &c: it is nothing at all inferiour or
second to the same. Finallie, there is nothing to be discommended in
this riuer, but the opennesse thereof in manie places to the weather,
whereby sundrie perils oft ouertake such as fish or saile in small
vessels on the same.
The head of this noble streame is found in the high mounteines of south
Wales called Helennith or Plim limmon; in English, the blacke mounteins,
or moore heads, from whence also the Wie and the Rhidoll do procéed: and
therefore these thrée waters are commonlie called the thrée sisters, and
haue in latitude two and fiftie degrees ten minutes, in longitude
fiftéene and fiftie, as the description inferreth. So soone as it is out
of the ground, it goeth southeastward, till it come within a mile of
Laundlos, where it receiueth a chanell from by south southwest, called
the Dulas, which commeth thereinto on the south side, & southwest of Lan
Idlos. It riseth (as it should séeme) of diuerse heads in the edge of
Radnorshire, and taking in sundrie small rilles, it meeteth at the last
Brueham.
with the Brueham brooke, and so they go togither till they fall into the
Clewdogh.
Sauerne. Beneath Lan Idlos it taketh in the Clewdogh, from northwest, a
water producted by the influence of foure pretie brookes, whereof one is
Bacho.
Dungum.
Lhoid.
Bigga.
Couine.
called Bacho, another Dungum comming out of lin Glaslin, the third Lhoid
rising in lin Begilin, and the most southerlie called Bigga. After which
confluence our Sauerne procéedeth on by Berhlaid toward Landiman, taking
in by the waie, on the east side the Couine, thence to Cairfuse castell,
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Carnon.
Taran.
where it meeteth with the Carnon, and the Taran both in one chanell, and
going not far from the aforesaid fortresse. After this it crosseth the
Hawes.
Dulesse 2.
Hawes on the north halfe beneath Aberhawes, next of all the Dulesse that
riseth in the edge of Radnor shire, and méeteth with it before it come
at Newton in Powisie, otherwise called Trenewith, as I find in British
language. Being come to Trenewith, I cannot eschue (right honorable) to
giue one note, as by the waie, touching the originall of my ladie your
bedfellowes ancestrie, which came from hence, & were surnamed Newtons
onelie, for that the grandfather of sir John Newton either dwelled or
was borne there: otherwise the right name is Caradoc, for which some doo
corruptlie write Cradocke, respecting rather the shortnesse of
pronuntiation, than the true orthographie and writing of the word.
Certes the Caradockes haue béene, and yet are a linage of great honor,
antiquitie, and seruice; their lands also sometime belonged (for the
most part) to the noble Connoanies of Summersetshire: but in what order
they descended to the Newtons, in good sooth I cannot tell. But to
procéed with our riuer, which being past Newton, runneth foorth by
Mule.
Landilouarne, and so foorth on till it come to the fall of the Mule,
whose head is in the edge of Radnor also, and thereto his passage by
Kerie and Lanmereiwijc. After this also it procéedeth further till it
Kenlet.
Camalet.
Tate.
meet with the Kenlet or the Camalet, which taketh in also the Tate or
Tadbrooke water rising out of the hilles a mile from Bishops towne, the
whole course thereof being about seauen miles from the head (as I haue
often heard.) Of this also I find two descriptions, whereof one I borrow
out of Leland, who saith that it is a pretie brooke, running in the vale
by Mountgomerie, and comming within halfe a mile of the place where
Chirbirie priorie stood, it falleth into the Sauerne about a mile from
thence. Of the rilles (saith he) that run from the hilles thorough
Mountgomerie, which are a mile from the Sauerne shore, and likewise of
Lan Idlos.
the Lan Idlos brooke that méeteth withall within foure miles of the
head, I speake not, but thinke it sufficient to touch those of some
estimation, onelie leauing the rest to such as maie hereafter deale with
things more particularlie as time and trauell maie reueale the truth to
them. And hitherto Leland, whose words I dare not alter. But another
noteth this Camalet or Kenlet to run by More, Liddiom, Sned,
Churchstocke, Chirbirie, Walcote, and Winsbirie, and so into the
Sauerne.
From hence then, and after this confluence it goeth on by Fordon,
Leighton, and Landbreuie toward Meluerleie, and there it méeteth with
Tanet.
sundrie waters in one chanell, whereof the one called the Tanet is a
Peuereie or Murnewie.
verie pretie water (whereinto the Peuereie or Murneweie doth fall, which
descendeth from the hilles by west of Matrafall not farre from Lhan
Auernie.
Filin) the other Auernie, and ioining beneath Abertannoth, or aboue
Lannamonach neere unto the ditch of Offa, it is not long yer they méet
Mordant.
with the Mordant brooke, and there loose their names so soone as they
ioine and mix their waters with it. The head of the Mordant issueth out
of the Lanuerdan hilles, where diuerse saie, that the parish church of
crosse Oswald or Oswester sometimes stood. Certes, Oswester is thirtéene
miles northwest from Shrewesburie, and conteineth a mile within the
walles. It hath in like sort foure suburbs or great stréetes, of which
one is called Stratlan, another Wuliho, the third Beterich, wherein are
one hundred and fortie barns standing on a row belonging to the citizens
or burgesses, and the fourth named the Blackegate stréet, in which are
thirtie barns mainteined for corne and haie. There is also a brooke
Simons becke.
running thorough the towne by the crosse, comming from Simons well, a
bow shoote without the wall; & going vnder the same betweene Thorowgate
& Newgate, running vnder the Blacke gate. There is another, ouer whose
Bederich.
course the Baderikes or Bederich gate standeth, and therefore called
Bederich brooke. The third passeth by the Willigate or Newgate, & these
fall all togither with the Crosse brooke, a mile lower by south into the
Mordant that runneth (as I said) by Oswester. From hence also it goeth
to Mordant towne, and betwéene Landbreuie and Meluerleie doth fall into
the Sauerne. After this our principall streame goeth to Sheauerdon
castell, Mountford, and Bicton chappell: and here it receiueth a water
on the left hand, that riseth of two heads, whereof one is aboue Merton,
the other at Ellismere, and ioining betweene Woodhouses & Bagleie, the
[Page 119]
confluence runneth on by Radnall, Halton, Teddesmer, Roiton, Baschurch,
Walford, Grafton, Mitton, and so into the Sauerne. From hence it runneth
to Fitz, Eton, or Leiton, Barwijc, vpper Rossall, Shelton, and so to
Shrewsburie, where it crosseth the Mele water, whose head (as I heare)
is said to be in Weston.
Mele.
The Mele therefore rising at Weston, goeth by Brocton, Worthen, Aston
Haberleie.
Pigot, Westleie, Asterleie, and at Lea it méeteth with the Haberleie
water that commeth downe by Pontesford and Aunston. After this
confluence also it runneth to Newenham & Crokemele, there taking in a
rill on the other side that descendeth by Westburie and Stretton, &
thence going on to Hanwood, Noball, Pulleie, Bracemele, and
Shrewesburie, it falleth (as I said) into the open Sauerne. From hence
our Sauerne hasteth to Vffington, Preston, and betwéene Chilton and
Brampton taketh in the Terne, a faire streame and worthie to be well
handled; if it laie in me to performe it. This riuer riseth in a mere
beside Welbridge parke, néere vnto Ternemere village in Staffordshire.
From whence it runneth by the parkes side to Knighton, Norton, Betton,
and at Draiton Hales crosseth with a water comming from about Adbaston
(where maister Brodocke dwelleth) and runneth by Chippenham and Amming:
Terne.
so that the Terne on the one side, and this brooke on the other, doo
* Sée Hen. 6. pag. 649
inclose a great part of *Blore heath, where a noble battell was
somtime purposed betwéene king Henrie the sixt, and the duke of Yorke:
but it wanted execution.
But to procéed. After this confluence, it runneth to Draiton Hales,
Ternehill bridge: and yer long taking in a rill from Sandford by
Blechleie, it goeth to Stoke Allerton, Peplaw, and Eaton, where it
crosseth with a brooke that riseth about Brinton, and going by Higham,
Morton, the great Mere, Forton, Pilson, Pickstocke, Keinton, Tibberton,
and Bolas, it ioineth with the said Terne not farre from Water Vpton.
Thence passing to Crogenton, it méeteth with another brooke that commeth
from Chaltwen Aston, by Newport, Longford, Aldneie, and so through the
Wilde moore to Kinsleie & Sléepe, and finallie into the Terne, which
hasteth from thence to Eston bridge, and néere vnto Walcote taketh in
Roden.
the Roden. This water riseth at Halton in Cumbermere lake: and comming
to Ouenleie, crosseth a rill from Cowlemere by Leniall. Thence it goeth
to Horton, and (ioining with another rill beneath Nonlaie that commeth
from Midle) runneth on to Wen, Aston, there crossing a rill beneath
Lacon hall from Prées ward, and so to Lée, Befford, Stanton, Morton,
Shabrée, Painton, Roden, Rodington, and then into Terne, that runneth
from thence by Charlton, Vpton, Norton, Barwijc, Acham, and so into the
Sauerne two miles beneath Shrewesburie (as I wéene.)
Thus haue I described the Terne in such wise as my simple skill is able
to performe. Now it resteth that I proceed on (as I maie) with the
Sauerne streame, with which, after this former confluence, it goeth vnto
Roxater or Roxcester, Brampton, Eaton vpon Sauerne, Draiton, where it
Euerne.
ioineth with the Euerne that runneth from Frodesleieward by Withiall and
Pitchford, Cresfedge, Garneston, Leighton, and betwéene the two
Wenlocke or Rhe.
Bildasses crosseth the Rhe or Wenlocke water, and so goeth on to
Browsleie and Hoord parke, where it vniteth it selfe with another brooke
to be described in this place, whilest the Sauerne rests, and recreates
it selfe here among the plesant bottoms.
This water ariseth aboue Tongcastell, and yer it haue run anie great
distance from the head, it méeteth with a rill comming by Sheriffe
Hales, and Staunton. Thence it goeth on to Hatton, Roiton, and there
crossing another from Woodhouses, comming by Haughton and Euelin, it
Worfe.
procéedeth to Beckebirie and Higford, and not omitting here to crosse
the Worfe (sometime a great streame that runneth vnto it out of Snowdon
poole) and so passeth foorth to Badger, Acleton, Worffield: a litle from
whence (about Wickin) it taketh in another brooke into it called Churle,
& so goeth on to Rindleford, and then into Sauerne somwhat aboue
Bridgenorth at Penston mill (except mine information deceiue me.) From
Bridgenorth our Sauerne descendeth to Woodburie, Quatford, and there
Marbrooke.
taking in the Marbrooke beneath Eaton that riseth aboue Collaton, and
goeth by Moruill & Vnderton, it runneth by Didmanston, Hempton, Aueleie,
& beneath in the waie to Bargate, crosseth with a brooke comming from
[Page 120]
Vpton parke, by Chetton, Billingsleie, and Highleie, which being
admitted, it holdeth on to Areleie, Ciarnewood parke, Hawbach and
Dowlesse.
Dowlesse. Here also it méeteth with the Dowlesse water, a pretie brooke
issuing out of the Cle hilles in Shropshire, verie high to looke vpon,
and thrée miles or thereabouts from Ludlow, which runneth through
Lempe.
Clebirie parke in Wire forrest, & taking withall the Lempe, dooth fall
into the Sauerne not far from Bewdleie.
But to procéed. From Bewdleie our Sauerne hasteth directlie to Ribford,
Stoure.
Areleie and Redston, and here it méeteth with a water called Stoure,
descending from Elie, or out of the ponds of Hales Owen in
Worcestershire, where it receiueth a rill from the left hand, and
another from the right, and then goeth on to Sturbridge (taking in there
the third water yer long running from Sturton castell) then to Kniuer
Whittenton, Ouerleie and Kidormister, aboue which it crosseth one
brookelet that commeth thither by Church hill, and another beneath it
that runneth by Belborow, betwixt which two waters lieth an od peece of
Staffordshire included, and also the Cle hill. From hence the aforesaid
Sauerne hasteth by Redston to Shrawleie; and aboue this towne receiueth
Astleie.
the Astleie water, as beneath the same it dooth another. From Witleie
then it goeth on to Holt castell, and so to Grimleie, taking in
Doure.
Sulwaie.
thereabout with the Doure, and Sulwaie waters, whereof this riseth at
Chadswijc, and runneth by Stoke priorie, & Droitwich, the other aboue
Chaddesleie, and commeth by Dourdale. After this it goeth foorth vnto
Worcester, in old time called Cair Brangon, or Cair Frangon, where it
Tiber.
méeteth with the Tiber, or Tiberton water, on the right hand aboue that
citie, and beneth it neere vnto Powijc with the Temde, whose description
shall be set downe before I procéed or go anie further with the Sauerne.
Temde.
The Temde, or (as some name it) the Tame riseth vp in Radnorshire, out
of the Melenith hilles, and soone after his issue, méeting with a water
from Withall, it runneth to Begeldie, Lanuerwaterden, and so to
Knighton, which is fiue or six miles (as I heare) from his originall.
From Knighton it goeth ouer the ditch of Offa vnto Standish, and
Clude.
crossing a rill that commeth from betwéene the parke named Clude, (and
is a bound of Radnorshire) it goeth to Buckton, Walford, and Lanuarden,
where it meeteth with the Bardwell or Berfield, and the Clun, both in
one chanell, of which I find these descriptions here folowing word for
Barfield.
word in Leland. The Bardwell or Barfield riseth aboue New Chappell, in
Clun.
the honour of Clun, hard by the ditch of Offa, and goeth by Bucknell.
The Clun issueth out of the ground betwéene Lhan Vehan and Maiston, and
going on by Bucton, Cluncastell, Clundon, Purslaw, and Clunbirie, it
crosseth with a brooke that runneth along by Kempton and Brampton.
Thence going foorth by Clunbirie, Brome, Abcot and Marlow, it méeteth
with the Bardwell, and so in the Temde, not verie far from Temderton. I
Owke.
suppose that Leland calleth the Bardwell by the name of Owke, but I will
not abide by it bicause I am not sure of it. After these confluences
therefore, our Temde goeth by Trippleton, Dounton, Burrington, and
Oneie.
Broomefield, where it méeteth with the Oneie, which is an indifferent
streame, and increased with sundrie waters, whereof I saie as followeth.
Bow.
The first of all is called the Bow. It riseth (as I learne) in the
hilles betwéene Hissington and Shelue, and from thence commeth downe by
Warren.
Lindleie and Hardwijc, where it crosseth the Warren that issueth out of
the ground about Rotlie chappell, and runneth by Adston and Wentnor.
After the confluence also going on by Choulton and Cheinies, it taketh
Queneie and Strabroke.
in the Queneie and Strabroke both in one chanell, wherof the first
riseth at Lebotwood, and commeth downe by the Strettons, till it passe
by Fellanton. The second mounteth about Longuill, and goeth by
Rushburie, Newhall, Harton, and Alcaster, from whence it is not long yer
it fall into the Queneie, and so by Stratford into the Oneie, which hath
borne that name since the confluence of the Bow and Warren at Hardwijc,
whereof I spake before. Finallie, the Oneie which some call the
Somergill.
Somergill being thus increased, it runneth on to Hawford chappell,
Oneibirie, Broomefield, and so into Temde, and next of all to Ludlow.
Corue.
The Temde being thus brought to Ludlow, méeteth with the Corue, which
commeth thorough Coruedale from aboue Brocton by Morehouses, Shipton,
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Hungerford, and a little beneath taking in a rill that commeth by
Tugford, and Brencost castell, goeth on to Corsham castell, and there
crossing another from saint Margarets Clée, it hieth to Stanton Lacie,
and so likewise to Ludlow.
From Ludlow in like sort it goeth to Ludford, the Ashfordes, little
Ladwich.
Hereford, Burrington, and at Burfford vniteth it selfe with the Ladwich
that commeth beneath Milburne stoke, from betweene Browne, Cleehill, and
Stittertons hill, to Middleton, Henleie, Ladwich, Conam, and so into
Temde, which beneath Temdbirie receiueth another rill on the other side,
Rhe.
and the second on the left hand called Rhe, that commeth from aboue
Ricton, Staterton, Hound, Nene, Clebirie, Knighton, and then into the
Temde. From hence the Temde doeth goe by Astham, Lingridge, Shelleie
Welch, Clifton, Whitburne (and crossing a water that commeth from the
Sapies) to Knightwijc and Bradwaies. Hereabout againe it interteineth a
rill that descendeth from about Kidburie on the right hand, and goeth by
Collomatherne, Credeleie, Aufrike, and so into Temde, and then
procéeding forward, the said streame runneth to Braunford, and yer long
Langherne.
(taking in the Langherne that riseth about Martleie, and passeth by
Kengewijc) it goeth to Powijc, and so into the Sauerne before it come at
Wickecester.
Thus haue I brought all such streames before me that fall into the
Sauerne from the head, vntill I come to Powijc, wherof (as you may
easily perceiue) the Temde is the most excellent. Now it resteth that I
proceed with the rest of the discourse intended concerning this our
riuer. Certes, from Powijc mils which are about halfe a mile beneth
Worcester, the Sauerne runneth on to Kempseie and Cleueld, whence after
it hath crossed a brooke comming from Cowleie, it hasteth first to
Stoke, and so to Vpton, which is eleuen or twelue miles from Glocester,
whither it floweth manie times at high tides, but yer it come there, it
drowneth another fall descending from Maluerne hilles by Blackemoore
parke, & soone after the third growing by two branches, wherof one
commeth also from Maluerne hils by little Maluerne and Welland, the
other from Elderford by Pendocke and Longdon. After these confluences in
like sort, it runneth to Bushelleie, and Tewkesburie, where it receiueth
the Auon, that followed next of all in order to be described, before I
procéed anie further in my discourse of Sauerne.
Auon 4.
The Auon riseth at Nauesbie in the borders of Northamptonshire, a little
side hand of Gillesborow and foot of the hils whereon Nauesbie standeth,
and euen out of the church yard of the said village. From hence it goeth
to Welford, Stamford, Lilburne, Clifton, and Rugbie, by north whereof it
Swiuethus.
crosseth a water called Swift, which commeth from aboue Kimcote, to
Lutterworth, Browne ouer and Colsford. From thence also it goeth to
Souus.
Newbold, Wolston, Ruington, and betwéene the Stonlies taketh in the Sow.
This Sow is a pretie water comming from aboue Calendon to Whitleie, and
soone after méeting with a riueret from Couentrie, which some doo call
Shirburne water, it goeth thence to Bagginton, where it taketh in a rill
Kinell.
called Kinell, as I haue read from Kenelsworth, from whence it runneth
to Stonleie, & so into the Auon. After this confluence the Auon
procéedeth on to Stonleie abbeie, Ashehow, Miluerton, Edmonds cote, and
appace to Warwijc.
But yer it come there, it méeteth from south east with two waters in one
chanell, whereof the least commeth to Marton from Bishops Itchington, by
Herburbirie and Thorpe, where it crosseth a rill from Southam. The other
Leame.
is called Leame, or Lime that descendeth from about Helladon, or néere
vnto Catesbie in Northamptonshire, and going by Ouencote, Braunston,
Lemington and Mertun, it ioineth with the other, and then go from thence
togither vnder the name of Leame, to Hunnington, Cobbington, and so into
the Auon, as I gaue notice before. At Warwike also the Auon taketh in a
water running northwest from Groue parke. Thence it goeth on to
Bereford, and there crossing another from Shirburne, it passeth forth to
Bishops Hampton, méeting finallie with the third, from Kineton that
runneth by Walton and Charlecote. After this last rehearsed confluence,
it hasteth to Stretford vpon Auon, and then to Luddington ward, where it
Stoure.
taketh in the Stoure that riseth aboue Cherington, & whose course from
thence is such, as that being once past the head, it goeth by Weston, and
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yer long crossing a water from Campden, hanging Aston, & Todnam, it
runneth to Barcheston, Aldermaston, Clifford, & so into the Auon.
From hence then the said Auon goeth to Luddington, Burton, Bitford, and
Cleue, and being parted from the said towne, yer it come at Sawford, it
Arow.
receiueth the Arow or Aur, which rising in the blacke hils in
Worchestershire, commeth by Alchurch, Beleie parke, Ypsleie, Studleie,
Alne.
and then taking in another rill called Alne, out of Fecknam forrest, and
going by Coughton parke, it hasteth to Alcester, Arow, Ragleie,
Wheteleie, Bouington, Standford, and so into Auon, which after this
conjunction goeth to Vffenton & then to Eouesholme: but yer it come
there it receiueth two waters in one chanell, whereof the first riseth
about Willerseie, the other néere to Buckland, and ioining beneath
Pludor.
Badseie, they fall into Anon, vnder the name of Pludor brooke, before it
come to Eouesholme.
Vincélus.
Being past Eouesholme it crosseth the Vincell, which rising out of the
hils somewhere about Sudleie, runneth two miles further to Winchelcombe,
and Gretton, and taking in a rill by the waie from Hailes, procéedeth on
(going within one quarter of a mile of Hailes abbaie) to Tuddington, or
Doddington, beneath which when it hath crossed another rill that commeth
from Stanwaie, it goeth to Wannington, Sedgeborow, and receiuing there
the last on the right hand also (as all aboue rehearsed) it falleth into
the Auon, when it is come by Hinton, vnto a towne called Hampton, or (as
some doo write it) Ampton. After this confluence the Auon goeth to
Charleton, to Crapthorne (and there taking in a rill on the left hand)
to Fladbirie wike, and almost at Persore bridge, méeteth with a branched
Piddle.
water that commeth by Piddle, whereof one head is at Alberton, an other
at Piddle. From Persore it goeth to Birlingham, and soone after carrieng
a brooke withall descending from Fakenham, by Bradleie, Himbleton,
Huddenton, Crowleie, Churchhill, Pibleton, Besseford and Desseford, it
fléeteth to Eckington, Bredon, Twining, Mitton, and Tewkesburie, where
it ioineth with the Sauerne.
Now to resume the course of the Sauerne, you shall vnderstand, that from
Tewkesburie it goeth to Derehirst, the How passage, and soone after
Chilus.
receiuing the Chiltenham water that commeth thither by Bodenton, Sawton,
and Norton, it runneth to Ashelworth, Sainthirst; and here it parteth it
selfe till it come to Glocester, where it vniteth it selfe againe. But
in the meane time the easterlie branch receiueth a forked chanell,
whereof one head is not far frō Leke Hampton, the other about
Witcombe, from whence it goeth to Brockworth. The other branch or arme
taketh in the Leadon that commeth downe by Preston, Dimmocke, Pantleie
Leadon.
vpper Leadon, Leadon court, and there taking in one rill that commeth
from Linton by Areknoll, and another beneath it from Tainton by Rudford,
it falleth into the said branch on the right side, before it come at
Glocester.
The Sauerne therefore being past Glocester, it méeteth with a litle rill
on the right hand, and thence holding on his course by Elmore,
Minsterworth, Longneie, to Framilode, it receiueth yer it come at this
Strowd.
latter the Strowd brooke, which rising not farre from Side, goeth by
Massade, Edgeworth, Frampton, Strowd, and receiuing there a water that
commeth from Panneswijc Lodge, by Pittescombe on the one side, and
another from Radbridge on the other, it prosecuteth his voiage to Stone
house, Eslington, white Misen, & so toward Framilode, where the said
Strowd dooth fall into the Sauerne. After the fall of Strowd, the
Sauerne goeth from thence to Newenham, and Arlingham, and soone after
receiuing a water on each side, whereof one commeth from Vleie by Cham
and Chambridge, the other by Blackneie and Catcombe, it goeth foorth
till it méet with another water on ech side, whereof that on the English
halfe is forked, so that one head thereof is to be found about Borwell,
the other at Horton, and méeting aboue Tortworthie, they run by Stone
and Barkeleie castell, and so into the Sauerne. That on the Welsh halfe
Newarne.
is named Newarne, which cömeth from the forrest of Deane, and so into
the Sauerne.
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The Sauerne being thus described, it resteth that I go forward with the
names of those that lie vpon the coast of Southwales, making my entrie
at the ferrie ouer betwéene Aust in Glocestershire, and a village on the
further banke of Sauerne, not farre from Tarendacus chappell, in the
Wie mouth.
mouth of the riuer Wie, which ferrie is about three miles ouer (saith
Guie aliàs Wie.
Leland) or else my memorie dooth faile me. This riuer Guie or Wie
beginneth (as I said before) on the side of the hilles, where the
Sauerne dooth arise, and passing through Wenceland, that is, southeast
by Raiader Guie to Buelt (where the Irwon meeteth withall) it goeth to
Glasburie, Hereford, Monmouth, and finallie into the Sauerne sea at
Chepstow: for so they call Monhafren, which seuereth Wales from
Summersetshire, Deuonshire, Cornewall: as for the Rhidoll which is the
third sister, it hath the shortest course of all, for it runneth
northward, and into the sea at Aberistwith, which is not farre off, as
the writers doo report.
Leland writing of this riuer Guie or Wie saith thus; The Wie goeth
thorough all Herefordshire by Bradwarden castell, belonging to sir
Richard Vehan, and so to Hereford east, thence eight miles to Rosse, a
Vmber a fish onelie in the Wie.
market towne in Herefordshire: and in this riuer be vmbers, otherwise
called grailings. It is also found by common experience, that the salmon
of this riuer is in season, when the like fish to be found in all other
riuers is abandoned and out of vse; wherof we of the east parts doo not
a little maruell. But let vs not staie vpon these descriptions, sith an
other is come to my hand more exact than either of these.
The Guie therefore riseth out of the blacke mounteines of Wales, out of
which the Sauerne springeth in Radnorshire, and comming by Lhangerike,
Darnoll.
and Raiadargoie, it receiueth one rill from the west called Darnoll, and
another from by northeast comming by saint Harmon. Thence it goeth to
Lhanuthell, and in the waie betwixt Raiader and Lhanuthell, it ioineth
Elland.
with the Elland, whose head is néere to Comeristwith, and taketh
Clardwen.
likewise into him the Clardwen that diuideth for a season Radnorshire
from Brecknoch, which Clardwen is likewise increased by the Clarthie
within thrée miles of his head and lesse, hauing his course from
southwest & hille soile adiacent. From Lhanuthell it goeth west of
Ithan.
Dissart, where it receiueth the Ithan, a riuer rising aboue Lhanibister,
and from whence it runneth to Landwie, and Lambaderne vawr: beneath
which it crosseth a water on ech side, whereof that on the right hand
Dulesse.
Cluedoch.
consisteth on the Dulesse and the Cluedoch, after their confluence: the
Lamaron.
other hight Lomaron, whose head is aboue Lanthangle, and in the forrest
of Blethwag. After these confluences, it runneth on crinkeling in
Hawie.
strange manner, vnder the name of Ithor, till it come to Dissart, taking
in the Hawie on the left side yer it come there, and then into the Wie
on the north side, which directeth his course further to Bealt, where it
Yrwon.
receiueth the Yrwon, a notable streame, descending from the hilles aboue
Lanihangle Abergwessen, and thence comming downe by Lanurid Lang marsh,
Lanauan, Vechan, Langantan, and so to Beth or Bealt, being inlarged by
Weuereie.
the waie with sundrie faire waters, as the Weuereie, whose head is about
Lanauan moore, the Dulasse, or (as some call it) the Dowlasse, that
Dulasse.
Comarch.
Dulasse.
commeth from the hilles west of the head of Weuereie. The Comarch whose
head and course is west of the Dowlasse on the north side, and likewise
by two other on the southwest, and Dilasse from by southwest, which last
rehearsed falleth into him halfe a mile and more aboue the influence of
the Comarch which lieth on the other side. After this our Yrwon goeth to
Dehon.
Lhanuareth, where it crosseth the Dehon on the southwest side, then to
Edwie.
Aberedwie, and there receiueth the Edwie on the northeast, which ariseth
in the hilles aboue Botins chappell, and commeth downe by Crigend and
Lanhaderne, thence the Guie goeth on to Lanstephan, and there (or a
Machaweie.
little aboue) taketh in the Machaweie that commeth by castell Paine, and
[Page 124]
Leuenni.
so going on in processe of time with the Leuenni, whereof Leland in his
commentaries doth write as here insueth.
Euer.
Euerie.
The Leuenni, otherwise called the Euer or Euerie, is a farre streame
rising in Welch Talgarth hard by Blaine Leuenni, among the Atterill
hilles, from whence it goeth to Brecknoch mere, which is two miles long,
and a mile broad, and where men doo fish in Vniligneis or botes of one
peece, as they doo in Lhin Seuathan, which is foure miles from Brecknoch.
Finallie bringing great store of red sand withall, and there with the
Brennich.
Brennich water (that hath his originall issue at Mennith gader, and is
Trufrin.
increased with the Trufrin) it falleth into the Wie aboue Glesbirie
three miles from Haie, at a place that of the onelie fall of this brooke
is named Aberleuenni, after this the Guie. Being come to Haie, a pretie
towne where much Romane coine is found, which they call Jewes monie: and
after it hath passed or crossed a little brooke, which commeth from
Dulesse.
Lanigon, it méeteth with the Dulesse that commeth also from the Atterill
by Kersop, and from thence goeth to Clifford castell (being now entred
into Herefordshire, and leauing Radnor, wherevnto it hath for a long
course béene march) then to the Whitneies, Winferton, Letton,
Bradwarden, Broberie, Monington, Biford, Bridgesalers, Eaton, Brinton,
and Hereford, without anie influence of riuer worthie of memorie, and
yet with manie windlesses, & there méeteth with a water rising short of
Wormesleie, which goeth by Maunsell, Lacie, Brinsop, Crednell, Stretton,
and Huntington, and soone after into the Wie, beside a little rill that
runneth betwéene them both euen into Hereford towne. From hence in like
sort the Wie hasteth to Rotheras church, Hampton, and Mordeford, where
Lug.
it taketh in sundrie waters in one chanell, of which the Lug or Luie is
the principall, and next of all to be described, before I go anie
further with the course of the Wie, whereinto it dischargeth the
chanell. It riseth in the edge of the forrest of Kemples aboue Langunlo:
from whence it goeth to Momonacht, Pilleth Whitton, Fuldibrooke,
Prestaine, so into Herefordshire, where betwéene Bonie & Beton, or
Bitton, it receiueth in the Somergill, whose crotched head being march
to Radnor forrest, directeth his streame betwéene the new and old
Radnors, to Knill, to Nash, and so into the Lug, which presentlie
passeth by Kinsham, Shirleie, Ailmister, Kingsland, Eaton chappell, and
so into Lemister, where it crosseth the Oneie (a streamelet rising short
of Shobden, and going by Chorlester) a little before it come to the west
side of the towne.
At Lemister it selfe in like sort three waters doo méet, and almost
Pinsell.
inuiron the towne, that is to saie, the Lug, the Pinfulleie or Pinsell
Kenbrooke.
(a riueret rising at Kingsland two miles from Lemister) & the Kenbrooke,
which commeth out of the blacke mounteins, from Lemister, otherwise
called Leofminster, of the builder, and also Leonminster, the Lug or
Luie goeth on to Eaton, and there taketh in a rill beneath Hampton, and
aboue Hope, whereof one head is betwéene Hatfield and Bickleton, another
néere vnto Marston, and méeting of both at Humber. From Hampton it goeth
to Bodenham, Wellington, Morton, Sutton, Shelwijc, Lugwardin, and
Fromeie.
Longward, where it crosseth the Fromeie or Frome, a pretie water, and
worthie to be remembred. It riseth about Wolferelaw, from whence it
commeth downe toward the southest by Edwinsloch to Bromyard, Auenburie,
Bishops Frome, Castell Frome, Can Frome, to Stretton vpon Frome, and
Loden aliàs Acton.
there taking in a water called Loden, comming from aboue Bishops
Grendon, by Pencombe, Cowarne, Stoke Lacie, Cowarne, and Engleton, our
Frome goeth on to Yarkeleie, Dornington, and Longward, and so into the
Lug, betwéene Longward and Suston, which runneth foorthwith to Mordford,
or Morthford, and there into the Wie, vnto whose description I now
returne againe.
Being come therefore vnto Mordford, it goeth to Fawnehope, Hamlacie,
Treske.
Ballingham, Capull regis, where it receiueth a water called Treske, from
little Berch by Treske, Fawleie, How, Capull Inkeston, Foie, Brampton,
Bridstow, Wilton castell, the Rosse, and there a rill from Bishops
Vptonward by Rudhall, Weresend, Ham, Glewston, Godderich, here in like
sort meeting with another that commeth from Ecleswall in the confines of
Glocestershire, by Peniard castell & Coughton, to Welch Bicknor, English
Bicknor, Huntesham, including a parcell of Monmouthshire, being an
outliggand, as ye may find in that parcell of Herefordshire which butteth
[Page 125]
vpon Glocestershire (as you shall find the like péece of Herefordshire
in the confines of Salop and Worcester, wherein Rochford standeth,
beside manie other which I haue elsewhere spoken of) Whitchurch, where
Gainar.
it taketh in Gainar water that commeth from Much Birch, by Lanwarne,
Garran.
Michaell church, and at Langarran crosseth the Garran brooke, that
riseth in Gregwood, short of Arcop, six miles from Monemouth by
northwest: after which these two doo runne as one to Marston, and almost
Whitchurch, and so into the Wie, which goeth from thence to Gunnarew, S.
Michaell, Dixton, and Monemouth, where I will staie a while, till I haue
described the Mone, next of all to be remembred here.
Mona.
The Mona or Monbecke, riseth in the forrest of Hene, twentie miles from
Monemouth by west in Eirisland, and going by Creswell, or Craswall
chappell not farre from the marches of Brecknocke, and northeast of
Hatuill hils, which after it hath run a good distance from the head
Eskill.
receiueth first the Eskle, and passeth by Lanihangle and the old Court,
Elkon.
from northweast, then the Olcon, from southwest, which méeteth withall
néere Cledoll or Knedoch, & passing by the old towne, it hasteth to
Altrinis, where it becommeth march betwéene Hereford and Monemouth
shires, and taketh in a water comming by Trewin, & likewise the Hordwie
Hodneie.
or Hodneie which riseth in Becknocke, among the Saterelles, & runneth by
Capell a fin, Lantonie, Cumroie, Michaell church in Monemouthshire, and
ioineth with our Mona at Altrinis, which after this confluence hasteth
to Walderstone, Lansillo Langua, betwéene which and Kinechurch it ioineth
Doure.
with the Doure that riseth about the Bache aboue Dourston, which is six
miles aboue Doure abbie, so that it runneth through the Gilden dale, by
Peterchurch, Fowchurch, Morehampton, Newcourt, Doure, and beneath Doure
Dulesse.
taketh in the Dulesse, from southwest and Lanihangle, by Harleswas
Wormesbecke.
castell on the one side, and yer long the Wormesbecke, descending from
aboue Keuernall by Didleie, Deuerox, Workebridge, and Kenderchurch on
the other, and so running all in one chanell vnto Mona, that riuer goeth
on to Kinech church, Grismond, Cardwaie, Skenfrith, Warnethall,
Perthire, and so to Monemouth, where it meeteth with the Wie, ouer each
of which riuers Monemuth towne hath his particular bridge.
The Guie or Wie therefore being increased with thus manie brookes and
waters, passeth on from hence, and going toward Landogo, it méeteth with
Trollie.
the Trollie becke, whose head is aboue Lannam ferrie in the north part
of Monemouth shire, and goeth from thence by Lhantellio, Lanihangle,
Gracedieu, Diggestow, Wonastow, Troie, and so into Wie, that runneth
Elwie.
also by Wies wood chase, taking in there the Elwie that commeth from
aboue Landelwie by Langowen, Lannissen, Penclase, Trilegh, and Langogo,
where méeting with the aforesaid streame, the Wie directeth his course
from thence by Tinterne abbeie (where it crosseth a rill from Trile
grange) Chapell hill, Parcasicke, Penterie chapell, Lancante, Chepstowe,
and so into the sea, leauing the Treacle (a chappell standing on a
rocke) on the hand betweene it & Sauerne, ouer against the point that
lieth south of Betteslie. Next vnto the Wie, I find a rill of no great
course, comming downe from Mounton chappell, by a place of the bishops
of Landaffe. Thence passing by Charston rocke, and the point whereon
Trogie.
Trinitie chappell standeth, I come vnto the fall of Trogie, which riseth
short of Trogie castell, and runneth toward the sea, by Landuair,
Dewston, Calicot, and so into the Ocean, ouer against the Charston
rocke. The next fall is of a water that commeth from aboue Penho by saint
Dennie Iland in the middest of the Sauerne,
and likewise another litle one called Beuerage.
Brides, north and by west of Dennie Iland, which lieth midwaie betweene
that fall & Porshot point, and before I touch at Goldcliffe point, I
crosse another fall of a fresh brooke, whose head is aboue Landueigo in
Wencewood, and course by Lhanbed, Langston, Lhanwarme, and through the
More to Witston.
Wiske.
Next vnto this is the Aberwish, or Wiske, in Latine Osca, whereon
Caerleon standeth, sometime called Chester and Ciuitas legionum, bicause
the Romans soiourned there, as did afterward Arthur the great, who also
held a noble parlement in the same, whereof Galfride maketh mention Lib.
7. cap. 4. affirming thereto, that in those daies the maiestie thereof
was such, as that all the forefronts of their houses were in maner laid
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ouer with gold, according to the Romane vsage. There was in the same in
like sort a famous vniuersitie, wherein were 200 philosophers; also two
goodlie churches erected in the remembrance of Iulius and Aaron, two
Brittish martyrs, whereby it might well be reputed for the third
metropoliticall sée in Britaine. But to our water, whereof I read that
it is furthermore one of the greatest in Southwales, and huge ships
might well come to the towne of Caerleon, as they did in the time of the
Romans, if Newport bridge were not a let vnto them; neuerthelesse, big
botes come thereto. It is eight Welsh or twelue English miles from
Chepstow or Strigull, and of some thought to be in base Wenceland,
though other be of the contrarie opinion. But howsoeuer the matter
standeth, this riuer is taken to be the bounds of Brechnockshire, as
Renni is middle to Wenceland & Glamorganshire. But to leaue these
by-matters, and come to the description of the water.
Vske.
You shall vnderstand that the Vske or Wiske, in Latin Osca riseth in the
blacke mounteins ten miles aboue Brechnocke toward Carmardine, the hill
being properlie called Yminidh Duy out of which it falleth, and situate
in the verie confines betwéene Brechnocke and Carmardine shires, from
whence winding into the northeast, it commeth to Trecastle, and in the
Craie.
waie betwéene it and Capell Ridburne, it taketh in the Craie brooke, on
the right hand before it come to Ridburne chappell. Going also from
Sennie.
thence toward Deuinocke, it crosseth the Senneie on the same side (which
Camblas.
Brane.
riseth aboue Capell Senneie) next of all the Camblas, & at Aberbraine,
the Brane, or the Bremich, whose head is thrée miles from Brechnocke,
and running by Lanihangle, it méeteth I saie with the Vske, about master
Yster.
Awbries manor. Beneath Aber Yster, it receiueth the Yster, which riseth
northwest aboue Martyr Kinoch, and commeth by Battell chappell, and
going from thence by Lanspithed and Newton, it runneth in the end to
Hodneie.
Brechnocke, where it taketh in the Hodneie or Honthie on the one side,
whose head is in Blaine Hodneie, and comming downe from thence by
Defrune chappell, Lanihangle and Landiuilog, it méeteth with the Vske or
Brechnocke townes end, which of the fall of this water was sometime
called Aberhodni, as I haue beene informed: on the other halfe likewise
Tertarith.
it receiueth the Tertarith that riseth among the Bane hils, fiue miles
from Brechnocke, and commeth likewise into the verie suburbs of the
towne, beneath Trenewith, or new Troie, whereby it taketh the course.
Kinuricke.
After these confluences, the Vske procéedeth on toward Aberkinurike, or
the fall of a water whose head is in the roots of Menuchdennie hill, and
passage by Cantreffe. Thence it goeth by Lanhamlaghe, Penkethleie
castell, Lansanfreid, Landettie, Langonider, and soone after receiuing
Riangall.
the Riangall (which riseth about the hill whereon Dinas castell
standeth, and runneth by Lanihangle and Tretoure) it passeth betwéene
Laugattocke and Cerigkhowell, to Langroinie, and there about crosseth
Groini.
the Groinie brooke, that descendeth from Monegather, Arthur hill, by
Peter church, as I find. When the Vske is past this brooke, it taketh in
thrée other short rils, from by south within a little distance, whereof
Cledoch Vaur.
Fidan.
Cledochvehā.
the first hight Cledoch Vaur, the second Fidan, and the third
Cledochvehan. Of these also the last falleth in néere to Lanwenarth.
From hence the Vske runneth to Abergeuenni towne, where it méeteth
Kebbie.
with the Kebbie water from by north, that riseth short of Bettus
Geuenni.
chappell aboue the towne, and the Geuennie that descendeth from aboue
Landilobartholl beneath not farre from Colbroke, and so goeth on to
Hardwijc, beneath which it crosseth thrée namelesse rilles, on the right
hand or southwest side before it come at Lanihangle vpon Vske, of whose
courses I know not anie more than that they are not of anie length, nor
the chanell of sufficient greatnesse seuerallie to intreat of. Betwéene
Birthin.
Kemmeis and Trostreie it meeteth with such an other rill that commeth
Caer Vske standeth on one side of
Vske, and Caerleon on the other, but Caer Vske
by diuerse miles further into the land.
downe by Bettus Newith. Thence it goeth to Caer Vske or Brenbigeie
(whose bridge, I mene that of Vske, was ouerthrowne by rage of this
riuer, in the six and twentith yeare of king Henrie the eight, vpon
saint Hughes daie after a great snow) but yer it come there, it
receiueth the Birthin on the right hand, which is a pretie water,
descending from two heads, whereof the first is northwest of Manihilot,
as the other is of Lanihangle and Pentmorell.
Elwie.
Next vnto this it ioineth with the Elwie aboue Lanbadocke, whose head is
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east of Penclase, and running westwards by Penclase, Lanislen, Langowen
(and beneath Landewie taking in a brooket from Ragland castell, that
commeth downe thither by Ragland parke) it bendeth southwest, vntill it
come at the Vske, which crinkling towards the south, and going by
Lanhowell, méeteth with three rilles before it come to Marthenie
chappell, whereof the first lieth on the right hand, and the other on
the left: the midlemost falling into the same, not farre from
Lantressen, as I haue béene informed. From the mouth of the Romeneie to
the mouth of the Taffe are two miles. Certes the Taffe is the greatest
riuer in all Glamorganshire, (called by Ptolomie Rhatostathybius, as I
gesse) and the citie Taffe it selfe of good countenance, sith it is
indued with the cathedrall see of a bishop. The course of the water in
like maner is verie swift, and bringeth oft such logs and bodies of
trées withall from the wooddie hilles, that they doo not seldome crush
the bridge in péeces, but for so much as it is made with timber it is
repaired with lighter cost, wheras if it were of hard stone, all the
countrie about would hardlie be able to amend it. It riseth in
Brechnockshire among the woodie hilles, from two heads, whereof one is
in Monuchdenie, the other west of that mounteine, of which the first
called Taffe vaure, goeth by Capell lan vehan, Vainor, and Morlais, the
other by Capell Nantie, and ioining at southwest beneath Morlais castle,
they go to Martyr Tiduill, and toward Lannabor, but by the waie it
taketh in from northwest a brooke called Cunnon, which commeth out of
Brechnockshire by Abardare, and afterward the Rodneie comming out of the
same quarter (but not out of the same shire) which runneth by
Estridinodoch, a crotched brooke, & therefore diuided into Rodneie
vaure, & Rodneie vehan, that being ioined with the Taffe, doth run on
withall to Eglefilian, castle Coch, Whitchurch, Landaffe, Cardiffe, and
so into the sea, not far from Pennarth point, where also the Laie dooth
bid him welcome vnto his chanell or streame. Furthermore, from
Marthellie it hasteth to Kemmeis, and yer it come at Caerleon or Chester
in the south, taketh in two waters on the right hand, of which the first
commeth downe from the north betweene Landgwie, Landgweth, and by Lhan
Henoch, without anie further increase: but the other is a more
beautifull streame, called Auon, and thus described as I find it among
Auon.
my pamphlets. The Auon riseth in the hilles that séeme to part Monemouth
and Brechenocke shires in sunder, and after a rill receiued from
Blorench hill on the northside of the same, running downe from thence by
Capell Newith and Triuethin, it receiueth a water from by south almost
of equall course, and from that quarter of the countrie, and in processe
of time another little one from the same side, yer it come to Lanurgwaie
and Lanihangle, from whence it goeth to Guennocke and Penrose, & so in
Vske before it go by Caerleon. But here you must note, that the course
of this streame ioining beneath Quenocke chappell, with the other which
descendeth (as I said) from the hilles about foure miles aboue Landgwaie
and Langweth, dooth make an Iland aboue Caerleon, where Penrose
standeth, & much Romane coine is found of all sorts, so that the
influence of the one into the other séemeth to me to be but a draine
deuised by man, to kéepe the citie from the violence of such water as
otherwise would oft annoie the same.
Being past Caerleon it runneth to Crindie, where maister Harbert
dwelleth, and there carieng another brooke withall, that riseth north of
Tomberlow hill, and descendeth by Henlis and Bettus chappell, it runneth
forth to Newport (in Welch castle Newith) and from thence vnder a bridge,
Ebowith.
after thrée or foure miles course to the sea, taking the Ebowith water
withall, which méeteth with the same almost in the verie mouth or fall,
and riseth in the edge of Brecknoch shire, or (as Leland saith) high
Winceland, from two heads of which one is called Eberith Vehan, the
other Eberith Mawr, as I haue beene informed. The course of the first
head is by Blamgrent, and after the confluence they passe togither by
Lanhileth, and comming by west of Tomberlow hill (crossing a rill, from
Serowie.
north east by the waie) it taketh in thereabout the Serowie, that
runneth by Trestrent, & is of lesse race hitherto than the Ebowith, and
from that same quarter. After this confluence it goeth to Risleie,
Rocheston castell, next of all thorough a parke, and so by Greenefield
castell, and is not long yer it fall into the sea, being the last issue
that I doo find in the countie,
[Page 128]
which beareth the name of Monemouth, and was in old time a part of the
region of the Silures.
Romeneie.
The Romenie or (as some corruptlie call it) the Nonneie, is a goodlie
water, and from the head a march betwéene Monemouth & Glamorgan shires.
The head hereof is aboue Egglins Tider vap Hoell otherwise called Fanum
Theodori, or the church of Theodorus, whence commeth manie springs, &
taking one bottome, the water is called Canoch and not Romeneie till it
be come to Romeneie. It receiueth no water on the east side, but on the
west diuerse small beckes, whereof three (and one of them called Ifra)
are betwéene the rising and Brathetere chappell, the fourth cōmeth in
by Capell Gledis, and Kethligaire, the fift from betwéene the Faldraie
and Lanuabor, the sixt & seuenth before it come to Bedwas, and the eight
ouer against Bedwas it selfe from chappell Martin, Cairfillie castell,
and Thauan, after which confluences it runneth on by Maghan, Keuen,
Mableie and Romeneie, & yer long crossing a becke at north west that
commeth from aboue Lisuan, Lamssen and Roch, it falleth into the sea,
about six miles from the Wisbe, and albeit the mouth therof be nothing
profitable for ships, yet is it also a march betwéene the Silures and
Glamorganshire.
Laie.
The Laie falleth into the sea a mile almost from the Taffe, and riseth
in the hilles aboue Lantrissent (for all the region is verie hillie.)
From whence comming by Lantrissent and Auercastell, it runneth by Coit
Marchan parke, Lambedder, S. Brides, Lhannihangle, saint Fagans and
Elaie, Leckwith, Landowgh, Cogampill, and so into the sea, without anie
Dunelais.
maner increase by anie rils at all sauing the Dunelais, which riseth
foure miles from his fall, east northeast, and meeteth withall a little
more than a quarter of a mile from Pont Velim Vaur, and likewise by west,
Methcoid.
the Methcoid that commeth from Glinne Rodeneie, and wherein to the
Pedware.
Pedware dischargeth that small water gathered in his chanell. Here will
I staie a little and breake off into a discourse, which Leland left also
as parcell of this coast who toucheth it after this maner.
Laie.
From Taffe to Laie mouth or Ele riuer a mile, from Laie mouth (or rather
Thawan.
Penarth, that standeth on the west point of it) to the mouth of Thawan
riuer (from whence is a common passage ouer vnto Mineheued in
Summersetshire of 17 miles) are about seuen Welsh miles, which are
Scilleie.
counted after this maner. A mile and a halfe aboue Thawan is Scilleie
hauenet (a pretie succour for ships) whose head is in Wenno paroch two
Barrie.
miles and a halfe from the shore. From Scilleie mouth to Aber Barrie a
mile, and thither commeth a little rill of fresh water into Sauerne,
whose head is scant a mile off in plaine ground by northeast, and right
This Ile went fiftie yeares agone for x. pounds.
against the fall of this becke lieth Barrie Iland a flight shot from the
shore at the full sea. Halfe a mile aboue Aber Barrie is the mouth of
Come kidie.
Come kidie, which riseth flat north from the place where it goeth into
the Sauerne, and serueth oft for harbour vnto sea-farers. Thence to the
mouth of Thawan are thrée miles, wherevnto ships may come at will.
Colhow.
Two miles aboue Thawan is Colhow, whither a little rill resorteth from
Lau Iltuit, thence to the mouth of Alen foure miles, that is a mile to
Alen.
saint Dinothes castell, and thrée miles further. The Alen riseth by
northeast vp into the land at a place called Lhes Broimith, or Skirpton,
about foure miles aboue the plot where it commeth by it selfe into
Ogur.
Sauerne. From thence to the mouth of Ogur aliàs Gur thrée miles. Then
Kensike.
Auon.
come they in processe of time vnto the Kensike or Colbrooke riuer, which
is no great thing, sith it riseth not aboue three miles from the shore.
From Kensike to Aber Auon two miles, and herein doo ships molested with
weather oftentimes séeke harborough. It commeth of two armes, wherof
that which lieth northeast is called Auon Vaur, the other that lieth
northwest Auon Vehan. They meet togither at Lhanuoie Hengle, about two
miles aboue Aber Auon village, which is two miles also from the sea.
Neth.
From hence to the Neth is about two miles and a halfe, thereon come
shiplets almost to the towne of Neth from the Sauerne. From the mouth of
Neth vnto the mouth of Crimline becke is two miles, and being passed the
Tauie.
same we come vnto the Tauie, which descendeth from the aforesaid hilles
and falleth into the sea by east of Swanseie. Being past this we come
Lochar.
vnto the Lichwr, or Lochar mouth, and then gliding by the Wormes head,
[Page 129]
Wandres.
we passed to the Wandresmouth, wherof I find this description following
Vendraith Vaur, Vendraith Vehan.
in Leland. Both Vendraith Vaur and Vendraith Vehan rise in a péece of
Carmardineshire, called Issekenen, that is to saie, the low quarter
about Kennen riuer, and betwixt the heads of these two hils is another
hill, wherein be stones of a gréenish colour, whereof the inhabitants
make their lime. The name of the hill that Vendraith Vaur riseth in, is
called Mennith Vaur, and therein is a poole as in a moorish ground,
named Lhintegowen, where the principall spring is, and this hill is
eight or nine miles from Kidwellie: the hill that Vendraith Vehan
springeth out of, is called Mennith Vehan, and this water commeth by
Kidwellie towne.
But about thrée or foure miles yer it come thither, it receiueth a
brooke called Tresgirth, the course whereof is little aboue a mile from
the place where it goeth into Vendraith, and yet it hath foure or fiue
tucking milles and thrée corne milles vpon it. At the head of this
brooke is an hole in the hilles side, where men often enter and walke in
a large space. And as for the brooke it selfe, it is one of the most
plentifull and commodious that is to be found in Wales. All along the
sides also of Vendraith Vaur, you shall find great plentie of sea-coles.
There is a great hole by head of Vendraith Vehan, where men vse to enter
into vaults of great compasse, and it is said, that they maie go one
waie vnder the ground to Wormes head, and another waie to Cairkemen
castell, which is three miles or more into the land. But how true these
things are, it is not in me to determine; yet this is certeine, that
there is verie good hawking at the Heron in Vendraith Vehan. There are
diuerse prints of the passage of certeine worms also in the caue, at the
head of Vendraith Vehan, as the inhabitants doo fable: but I neuer heard
of anie man that saw anie worme there, and yet it is beléeued that manie
wormes are there. Hitherto out of Leland. But now to returne to mine
owne course.
Laie.
Leauing the Laie, which some call Elaie, and passing the Pennarth baie,
that lieth betwéene the Pennarth and the Lauerocke points, we left
Scillie Ilet (which lieth on the mouth of Scillie hauen before
Barrie.
described) and came vnto the Barrie, whose head is aboue Wrinston
castell, and from whence he runneth by Deinspowis, Cadoxton, Barrie, and
so into the sea.
Aberthaw.
Being past the Barrie water, we come to a fall called Aberthaw, which
riseth two or thrée miles aboue Lansanor, and going by Welch Newton, it
commeth at length to Cowbridge, and from thence goeth to Lanblethian,
Landoch, Beanpéere, Flimston, Gilston, and betweene the east and the
west Aberthaw, & into the Sauerne sea. But yer it come all there it
receiueth a brooke called Kensan, or Karnsan, or Kensech, on the east
side, whose head is east of Bolston, & comming by Charnelhoid,
Lhancaruan, & Lancadle, it falleth into the former aboue either of the
Kensan.
Thawans. Leland saith, that Kensan hath two heads, whereof the more
northerlie called Brane, lieth in Luenlithan, and runneth seauen miles
before it méet with the other. Leauing this water we sailed on, casting
about the Nash point, omitting two or thrée small waters (whereof Leland
hath alreadie as ye see made mention) because I haue nothing more to add
vnto their descriptions, except it be, that the Colhow taketh in a rill
from Lan Iltruit, of whose course (to saie the truth) I haue no manner
of knowledge.
Ogur.
The Ogur or Gur, which some call the Ogmur, is a well faire streame (as
we were woont to saie in our old English) whose head is in the same
hilles, where the Rodeneies are to be found, but much more westerlie,
and running a long course yer it come to anie village, it goeth at the
length beneath Languineuere or Langouodoch, to S. Brides vpon Ogur, then
Wennie.
to Newcastell, and Marthermaure, beneath which it méeteth the Wennie,
halfe a mile from Ogur or Ogmur castell on the east side of the banke.
It riseth fiue or six miles from this place, among the hilles, and
comming downe at last by Lanharne, it crosseth a rill yer long from
northeast, and the confluence passeth foorth by Coitchurch, Ogur
castell, & so into the Ogur. Leland writing of the waters that fall into
Garrow.
this Ogur saith thus. Into the Ogur also resorteth the Garrow two miles
aboue Lansanfride bridge, descending from Blaingarow. It taketh
Leuennie.
Corug.
furthermore (saith he) another called Leuennie rising in the parish of
[Page 130]
Glin Corug, at northwest, and then running two miles lower, vniteth it
selfe with the Corug brooke, a little short thing, and worthie no longer
speach. From this confluence the Leuennie goeth seauen miles further yer
it meete with the Ogur on the west side, at Lansanfride, two miles aboue
Penbowt. And so far Leland. But I wot not what he meaneth by it.
Kensig.
Next vnto the Ogur is the Kensig water, that commeth downe by the Pile
Margan.
and Kensig castell, and being past the same we crosse the Margan rill,
Auon.
where sir Edward Manxell dwelt, and so vnto Auon, which hauing two heads
(as is said) the more easterlie of them commeth downe by Hauodaport
chappell, the other by Glin Corug, Michaell church, Aber Auon, and so
into the sea, yéelding also in time of néed a good harbour for ships to
lodge and ride in. From hence we went along by the Cole pits to the
Neth.
Nethuehan.
mouth of the Neth. The Neth is a faire water, rising of diuerse heads,
whereof the more easterlie named Nethuehan riseth not farre from the
head of the Kennon, and comming downe by Penedorin to Aberpirgwin it
Nethuaur.
receiueth Nethuaur, a little aboue the towne, which rising not farre
southeast of the head of Tauie in Brecknoch shire (as all the rest doo)
Trangarth.
Meltaie.
Hepsaie.
receiueth the Trangarth, the Meltaie and the Hepsaie, all which are
accounted as members of his head in one chanell, about a mile or more
before it ioine with Nethuehan. For as Trangarth riseth east of
Nethuaur, so the Melta riseth by east of Trangarth, and ioineth with the
same aboue Istrad wealthie, and a little beneath the same towne taketh
in the Hepsaie. So that albeit their seuerall risings be half or a whole
mile in sunder, yet haue they (in a maner) like distance from
Aberpirgwin, and their finall confluence in the edge of Glamorganshire,
which they directlie doo crosse. After these confluences, the maine
streame runneth in and out by sundrie miles, and through the wooddie
soiles, till it meet with Cledaugh, which ioineth with the same beneath
the Resonlaie, and goeth withall to Lanisted, where it taketh in the
Dulesse.
Dulesse, whose head is aboue Chappell Krenaunt, in the marches of
Brecknoch. Thence it goeth to Cador towne, or betwéene it and
Lannistide, then to Neth towne, whither small vessels often come: and
Cledoch.
beneath the same receiuing the Cledoch that runneth by Kelebebilch (and
also Neth abbeie where maister Crumwell dwelleth) it goeth on by
Coitfranke forrest, Nethwood, Briton ferrie, and so into the sea.
Tauie.
The Tauie riseth in the thickest of the blacke mounteines in
Brecknochshire west of Nethnaur, and comming downe west of Calwen
Coilus.
chappell, it receiueth on the east banke a rill named Coiell that
runneth thither by Coielburne chappell: and being thus vnited, the
Torch.
chanell passeth foorth by Istradgunles, and then méeting with the Turch
or Torch water that cōmeth from the foot of the blacke mounteines,
and is march to parcell of Caermardinshire, it runneth to Langoge,
Lansamled, saint Iohns, Swanseie, and so into the Baie. Being past this,
we come by another little fall, whose water runneth thrée or foure miles
yer it come into Swanseie baie, but without name. Thence we go to the
Crimline becke, whose description I neither haue, nor find anie great
want therof. Wherfore going about by Oistermont castell, and Mumbles
point, we passe foorth toward the southwest, by Penmarch point, til we
Ilston.
come to Ilston water, whose head is not farre within the land; and yet
as it commeth thorough the woodland, and downe by Penmarch castell, a
rill or two dooth fall into the same. Then casting about by Oxwich
point, we go onward there by, and sailing flat north by the Holme
(hauing passed the Wormeshead and S. Kennets chappell) and then
Lochar.
northeast by Whitford point, we went at length to the Lochar or Loghor,
or as Lhoyd nameth it, the Lichwr, whose indraught for a certene space
is march betwéene Caermardine and Glamorgan shires. It riseth aboue
Gwenwie chappell, from whence it goeth Landbea, to and aboue Bettus
Amond.
receiueth a rill named Amond that entreth thereinto from northeast.
Being past Bettus, it passeth by Laneddie, Arthelas bridge and ouer
Combwilie.
against Landilo Talabout, it crosseth from by west, the Combwilie by
Morlais.
west of Parkreame, and afterward the Morlais aboue Langnarch on the same
side. Then comming to Loghor castell, it taketh in on the east side, the
Lhu.
Lhu, whose course is not aboue fiue miles, and thence loosing the name
Burraie.
of Lochar, it is called Burraie, as some gesse, vntill it come to the
sea, where it parteth it selfe going on each side (of Bachannie Iland, a
[Page 131]
small thing) and not worthie for anie thing I read thereof, as yet to be
particularlie described. From this water we passed (I saie) by
Bachannies Ile, to the Aberlheddie water, whose head being in the hilles
aboue Prenacrois, it passeth by Lhaneltheie, and thence into the sea.
Dulesse.
Then went we to the Dulesse a little rill, whose head is not farre from
Trinsaren: thence by the Pembraie and Calicoit points, till we came
Wandres.
about to the Wandres or Vendraith mouth, whose description is partlie
touched alreadie; but bicause it is not such as I would wish it to be, I
will here after my owne maner deale somewhat further withall. Gwendrath
or Vendraith vaur riseth in the lower ground, or not far from the hill
Renneth Vaur, whereon castell Careg standeth, and descending by a pretie
long course vnder sundrie bridges, commeth at the last to Glin, then to
Capull Lanberie, and so vnto the sea, being little augmented with
influences by the waie. Vendraith Vehan riseth a mile higher towards the
north than Vendraith Vaur, but out of the same soile, & thence directing
his course toward the southwest, it goeth by Lancharog, Langendarne,
Capull Langell, Bithon, Leighdenie, Kidwillie, and so into the sea,
about one mile from the fall of Vendraith Vaur.
The Towie riseth in the mounteines of ElennithTowie.
foure miles by southeast
from Lintiue, and two from Lingonon, in a moorish ground foure & twentie
miles from Caermardine, and in a forrest called Bishops forrest, midwaie
betwixt Landwibreuie & Landanuerie castell. For fish, in my opinion,
this is much better than the Taw or Taffe, whose head breedeth no fish,
but if it be cast into it, they turne vp their bellies flote aloft and
die out of hand. It parteth Brecknoch from Cardigonshire also for a
Trausnant.
certeine season, till it come by the water of Trausnant, that falleth
thereinto from by east out of the confins of Brecknoch, vnto Pilin
Tothée.
capell, and so to Istrodefine, where it méeteth with the Tothee that
commeth thither from Lhinuerwin where it riseth, and so through Rescoth
Pescotter.
forrest, vniting it selfe by the waie with the Pescotter, which mounting
out of the ground in the edge of Cardigonshire, runneth along as a limit
and march vnto the same, till it ioine with the Tothée, and both come
togither beneath Istrodefine into Towie, which we haue now in hand.
After this confluence it commeth to Lhanuair Awbreie, Lanihowell, and
Lanimphfrie, and here it receiueth two waters in one chanell, whereof
Brane.
Gutherijc.
the first is called Brane, the other Gutherijc (which lieth more
southerlie of the two) and fall (as I said) into Towie beneath
Dulesse.
Morlais.
Landonuereie, which runneth on till it méet with the first Dulesse that
goeth by Lenurdie, then with the Morlais, and these on the northwest.
Certes the Brane is a pretie brooke rising two or thrée miles aboue
Capell Newith, and descending by Lanbrane and Vstradwalter, it méeteth
(I saie) with the Gutherijc, whose head is west of Tridcastell in
Brecknochshire, and thereby it is not a little increased. But to proceed
with the Towie, which being past Lanimphfrie and a rill that méeteth
with the same, descending from northwest of Lanurdan, it taketh in the
influences of diuerse waters in one chanell, of which the greatest is
called Modewie, and thereof I find this description.
Modewie.
The Modewie, or (as some pronounce it) Motheuie, riseth of two heads,
which ioining aboue Lanihangle, the streame runneth on till it méet with
Cledoch.
the Cledoch on the left hand, procéeding also further toward Langadocke,
Sawtheie.
it receiueth not far from thence the Sawtheie, whose two heads descend
from the blacke mounteines or east edge of Carmardineshire (as mine
Dulesse. 2.
information leadeth me.) After this confluence the second Dulesse dooth
méet with the Towie, whose head is in the hilles aboue Talthogaie
abbeie, northwest from Langadocke full fiue miles: then comming downe by
Landilovaur, Newton, Dinefar castell, and Golden groue, it receiueth the
Dulesse. 3.
third Dulesse from by north that commeth in by Lanihangle and Drislan
Cothie.
castell, and after that the Cothie, whose race is somewhat long, and
therefore his description not vtterlie to be passed ouer.
Not farre from the head (which is three miles from Landanbreuie, vnder
the hulke of Blame Icorne, a narrow passage, and therein manie heaps of
stones) and somewhat beneath Lana Pinsent chappell, it taketh in the
Turche.
Turche becke that runneth thither from aboue Lanacroies: thence it goeth
to Lansawell, Abergorlech, Breghuangothie, Lannigood, and so into Towie,
Rauelthie.
which hasting forward by chappell Dewie, receiueth the Rauelthie from by
[Page 132]
Gwilie.
north, then the Gwilie from northwest, whose head is aboue Lanie
Pinsent, and race by Canwell, Eluert, Comewilie, and Merling hill as I
haue often heard. After this confluence with the Gwilie, the Towie goeth
to Caermardine, then to Lanigang, then to Lanstephan, S. Ismaels, and so
into the sea.
Taue.
Next vnto the Towie is the Taue, whose head is in the blacke mounteines,
as at the roots of Wrenni vaur hill in Pembrookeshire, from whence it
Dudderie.
runneth by Lanuurnach, Langludien, Lanualteg, and taking in the Dudderie
from southwest, out of the same countie by Lanbederuelfraie, and Lindwie,
Marlais.
it goeth to Eglesware chappell, beneath which it crosseth the Marlais by
north that runneth by Lanbedie and Whitland. Thence meeting with one
Vennie.
rill called Venni, as I take it, that commeth through Cardith forrest on
Caire.
the one side, and the Caire on the other that runneth into it west of
Carthkinnie.
Landowror, it hasteth to S. Clares, where it taketh in the Carthkinnie,
Gow.
or Barthkinnie (as Leland calleth it) and the Gow or Tow both in one
chanell, of which the first riseth aboue Capell Bettus, from whence it
runneth by Talacouthe, Kilsant, and Langinnin, the other issueth out of
the ground aboue Trologh Bettus, by Midrun, & ioining with the former a
little aboue S. Clares, they run into the Taue, and from thence to
Gowen.
Lanihangle, and betwéene it and Abercowen, admitteth finallie the Gowen
or Gow streame, which comming likewise from the blacke mounteines, goeth
by Ebbernant, & so into the Taue, who directeth his course by Lancharne
castell, and then into the sea.
Gwair.
The next water that we come to is the Gwair, which is but a small thing
rising aboue Lambeder Velfraie, and going from thence by east of castell
Merhie hill, Crumuier and Argwaire, it is not long yer it fall into the
sea, and so we leaue Cairdinshire, and go ouer into Penbrooke. Then
passed we by an other comming out of Rathe forrest called Coit Rathe,
the water it selfe rising about Templeton. Thence leauing the Monkeston
rocke, we came to Tenbie or Dinbechie Piscood, and passing into the port
Brechnocke.
betwéene the castell and S. Katharines rocke, we found it serued with
two little backe waters, of so small countenance, that they are not
worthie of anie further talke to be spent in their descriptions: yet the
one séemeth to be called Florence brooke, the other Fresto, Gunfreston
standing betwéene them both, when by their sight cannot perish. After
From Londie to Caldie thirtie miles.
this we passed betwéene Londie and an other Ilet or rocke lieng by
northwest of the same, to Ludsop point, & so to Abertrewent, where I
Trewent.
found a sillie fresh water named Trewend that riseth a mile or
thereabout within the land. From thence we went southwards by Brode
hauen, till we came to S. Gowans point. Then gathering west and by north
before we came at Shepe Iland, we found another fresh water, that riseth
short of Kiriog Maharen, and running south of Vggarston, Windmill hill,
or betwéene it and Castell Norton and Gupton, it holdeth on flat west
all the waie till it come to the Ocean.
Pennar.
Being passed this water, we cast about toward the northwest, by the
Poptons and Pennar, till we came to the Pennar mouth, out of which the
salt water issueth that in manor inuironneth Penbroke. From this
(omitting sundrie salt créekes on both sides of the hauen, not
appertinent to our purpose) we came to the fall of two waters in one
chanell, aboue whose confluence Williamston parke standeth, and whereof
one (a méere salt course) incloseth thrée parts of Carew castell. The
other rising néere to Coit Rath forrest is a fresh, & going by
Geffraiston, Creswell & Lawrenie, it leaueth the parke on the south
side, & goeth into the hauen after confluence with the former.
Now come I to the two swords, or hauen of Milford, whereinto two riuers
Dugledu.
direct their course from the northeast called Dugledu or the two swords,
Cultlell.
and betwéene them both is a rill which they call also Cultlell (that is
to saie) the knife. Hereof riseth a merrie tale of a Welshman, that
lieng in this place abroad all night in the cold weather, and
peraduenture not verie well occupied, was demanded of his hostesse
(where he did breake his fast the next morrow) at what inne he laie in
the night precedent, bicause he came so soone to hir house yer anie of
hir maids were vp? Oh good hostesse (quoth he) be contented, I laie to
night in a dangerous estate, for I slept betweene two swords with a long
knife at my heart; meaning indéed that he laie betwéene these two
riuers, and his brest towards the south neere to the head of Cultlell.
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Gwilie.
But to passe ouer these iests. Here Leland speaketh of a riuer called
Gwilie, but where it riseth or falleth, he maketh no certeine report:
wherefore it is requisit that I proceed according to my purpose.
The one of these swords is called Clotheie or Clothie, of which I find
Clotheie.
this short and breefe description. The Clothie riseth at the foot of
Wrennie vaure hill and comming downe to Monachlodge, Langelman,
Lannakeuen, and Egremond, it receiueth a rill from by northwest before
it come at Lanhaddon castell, which commeth from aboue the moore by
Clarbaston and Bletherston, his head arising in the hill west of
Mancloghaie, as Leland dooth informe me. Yer long also and beneath
Lanhaddon it taketh in another on the east side from Narbarth castell,
comming by Robeston, then going by Cunaston, Slebach, Picton castell,
Sister houses, Minware & Martheltwie, at Rise castell point west of Coit
Dugledie.
Kenles (as I haue béene informed) it taketh in the other sword, named
Dugledie, wherof I read as followeth. The head of the Dugledie is
somwhere at northwest, betwixt S. Laurences & S. Dugwels, from whence it
runneth to Trauegarne, Redbaxton, & taking in a rill by the waie from
Camrose at the west, it goeth to Hauerford or Hereford west, and there
vniteth it selfe with a water, which peraduenture is the same that
Gwilie.
Leland called Gwilie. Certes it riseth short of Walton, and comming by
S. Leonards chappell and Pendergest, it falleth I saie into the
Dugledie, ouer against the towne of Hauerford or Herford west, but in
Welsh Hufford; as Lhoid dooth set it downe. Beneath Herford it taketh in
another water from south west, whose head is short of S. Margarets
chappell, and enterance betweene Harraldston and Herford, which
Harraldstone receiueth the name of Harrald the successour of Edward the
confessour as some call him, who was a gréeuous mall vnto the Britons
that remained in the time of the said Edward; as I haue noted elsewhere.
Then the Dugledie still descending taketh in the Frese frō
Fresethorpe, a rill of no great accompt, and therefore I go from it
making hast vnto Culthell, & omitting two rils betwéene it and the
Clotheie on the southside, of no great weight and moment. The Cultlhell
commeth into the Dugledie beneath Bolston, with a streight course from
by north, of three or foure miles, rising by west of Slebach, and
comming by Bowlston, after whose vnition with the aforesaid water they
run on as one till they méet with the Clothie, casting out by the waie
sundrie salt créekes, as the maine chanell dooth from thence foorth
vntill it passe the Sandie hauen, the Dale rode (whither a sillie fresh
rill commeth of small value) & be come about againe to the large Ocean.
Having thus shewed the courses of those few fresh waters that come to
Milford hauen, we cast about by the Blockehouse and S. Annes chappell
Gateholme Ile.
to Gateholme Ile, that lieth betwéene S. Annes and the Wilocke point,
Stockholme Ile.
directlie ouer against Stockeholme Iland that is situat further off into
the sea, toward the southwest, and is full halfe so great as the
Scalmeie that I elsewhere described. Betweene the Willocke point also
Midland Ile.
and the Scalmeie, directlie west is the Midland Ile, full so great as
the Gateholme. As for the two rocks that lie by north and south of the
Scalmeie, of which the one is called the Yardland stone, the other
Mewstone, it shall not be greatlie requisit to stand on their
discourses, sith they are such as may hardlie be taken for Ilands, and
euen in like sort we may iudge of S. Brides Ile, which is southwest of
Gresholme.
Calthrop rode, & likewise of the Gresholme, whereof I find this short
description. The Gresholme lieth directlie west of Scalmeie, from whence
if you saile thither on the south side, you must néeds passe by the
Mewstone rocke: if on the north of Scalmeie, you must leaue the Yarland
stone on your left hand. Wherto if you note well the situation of these
Ilands alreadie named, and confer them with the Ramseie and S. Dauids
land, you shall find them to produce as it were two dangerous points,
including the Bridbaie, wherein (notwithstanding the greatnesse) are
1000 perils, and no fresh brookes for me to deale withall. Finallie,
hauing doubled the Willocke point, we thought it not good altogether to
leaue that baie vnsearched, at lestwise to sée what Ilands might there
be found, & long entred into the same, we beheld one which the men of
S. Brides Iland.
the countrie call S. Brides Iland, a verie little place and situate
néere the land, before I came at Galtroie rode. From thence we went
[Page 134]
about by the little hauen, Doluach hauen, Caruaie hauen, Shirelace
rocke, Carnbuddie, and Carnaie baies, Portelais, and so into the sound
betwéene Ramseie and the point. In this sound likewise is a little Ile,
almost annexed to the maine: but in the middest thereof, I meane of the
sound, is a rocke called the horsse (a mile and more by north of Ribbie
rocke, that lieth south east of Ramseie) and more infortunate than ten
A sort of dangerous rocks lieng on a row upon the
west end of South-wales called the Bishop & his clerkes.
of Seians colts, but thanked be God I neuer came on his backe. Thence
passing by S. Stephans, and Whitesand baies, we saluted the Bishop and
his clerks, as they went on procession on our left side (being loth to
take anie salted holie water at their hands) and came at last to the
point called S. Dauids head, which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum
promontorium, except I be deceiued. But here gentle reader giue me leaue
to staie a while, and insert the words of Leland touching the land
called S. Dewies or S. Dauids land, whereof some men may peraduenture
haue vse, his words are these. Being therefore past this hauen and point
S. Dewie or Dauid all one.
of Demetia, in casting about the coast we come to S. Dewies or S. Dauids
land, which Ptolomie calleth Octapitanum promontorium, I read to be
separated from the rest of the countrie much after this maner, although
I grant that there may be and are diuerse other little creekes betwixt
Newgale and S. Dauids head, and betwixt S. Dauids and Fischard, beside
those that are héere mentioned out of a register of that house.
As we turne therefore from Milford, S. Dauids land beginneth at Newgale,
a créeke serued with a backe fresh water. Howbeit there is a baie before
this creeke betwixt it and Milford. From hence about foure miles is
Saluach.
Saluach creeke, otherwise called Sauerach, whither some fresh water
resorteth: the mouth also thereof is a good rescue for balingers, as it
Portelais.
(I meane the register) saith. Thence go we to Portelais three miles,
Alen.
where is a little portlet, whither the Alen that commeth through saint
Dewies close dooth run. It lieth a mile south-west from S. Dewies,
Portmaw.
saint Stinans Chappell also is betwéene Portelais, and Portmaw. The next
Maw.
Pendwie.
Lanuehan.
is Port Maw, where I found a great estuarie into the land. The Pendwie
halfe a mile from that: Lhand Vehan is thrée miles from Pendwie, where
Tredine.
is a salt créeke, then to Tredine three miles, where is another creeke
Langunda.
to Langunda, foure miles, and another créeke is there in like sort where
fishermen catch herrings. Héere also the Gwerne riuer diuideth
Fischard.
Gwerne.
Penbidiane from Fischerdine Kemmeis land. From Langunda to Fischard at
the Gwerne mouth foure miles, and here is a portlet or hauenet also for
ships. And thus much of S. Dauids land.
Besides this also, Leland in a third booke talketh of lhinnes and
pooles, but for as much as my purpose is not to speake of lakes and
lhinnes, I passe them ouer as hasting to Teifie, in Latine Tibius, and
after Ptolomie Tuerobius or Tiuirobius, which is the next riuer that
serueth for my purpose. And yet not forgetting to touch the Gwerne, for
after we came from saint Dauids head, we coasted along toward the
southeast, till wée came ouer against saint Catharins, where going
northwards by the broad hauen, and the Strombles head, we sailed thence
northeast, and by north, to Langlas head, then flat south by the Cow and
Calfe (two cruell rockes) which we left on the left hand, & so coasted
ouer to Abergwin or Fischard where we found a fresh water named Guin, or
Gwerne.
Gwerne, whose course is in manner directlie out of the east into the
west, from Vremie hils by pont Vaunt and Lanichair, vntill it come
within a mile of the foresaid towne. It riseth flat north of the
Perselie hill, from whence it goeth by Pont vaine, Lauerillidoch,
Lanchar, Landilouair, & so to Abergwine, or Abergwerne, for I read both.
Neuerne.
From Abergwine, we cast about by Dinas head, till we come to the fall of
Neuerne, where Newport standeth. The head of this riuer is aboue Capell
Nantgwin, from whence it runneth by Whitchurch, but yer it come at
Kilgwin, it taketh in a little water that riseth short of Wrenie vaure,
and thence go foorth as one vntill they come to Newport. Cardigan hauen
is the next fall that I did stumble on, wherein lieth a little Iland
Teifie or Tine.
ouer against the north point. Hereinto also commeth the Teifie, a noble
riuer which riseth in Lintiuie, and is fraught with delicate samons, and
herein and not else where in all the riuers of Britaine, is the Castor
or Beuer to be found. But to procéed. The verie hed thereof (I saie) is
foure miles aboue Stradflore in Luitie, and after it hath run from
thence a little space, it receiueth a brooke from southeast that commeth
[Page 135]
out of Lin Legnant, and then after the confluence runneth on to
Miricke.
Stradflore abbeie, beneth which it méeteth with the Miricke water (that
Landurch.
riseth aboue Stradmirich) and soone after with the Landurch (both from
the northwest) and finallie the Bremich aboue Tregaron, that commeth in
by the east; as Leland hath set downe.
Bromis.
Néere to Landwibreuie also it crosseth the Bromis by east northeast, and
Matherne.
then goeth to Landuair, Cledogh, Kellan, and soone after taking in the
Matherne from by east, that parteth Cardigan partlie from Carmardine
Dulas.
shire, and likewise that Dulas aboue Lanbedder (which riseth aboue
Langibbie, and goeth thence to Bettus) on the northwest, it goeth next
of all to Lanbedder towne, then to Laniuair, beneath which it crosseth
Grauelth.
the Grauelth, thence to Pencarocke, Lanibether, Lanlonie, Lanihangle,
Clethor.
and Sandissell, and there it vniteth it selfe with the Clethor or
Dettor, which commeth downe thither by Lantisilued chappell, Lanfraine,
and finallie Landissell from by north, as I doo here affirme. After this
confluence it procéedeth on to Landuaie, Alloine, Bangor, Langeler,
Kerie.
Landeureog and Newcastell, yer long taking in the Kerie from by north,
whose head is not farre from that of Clethor, and whose course is
somewhat inlarged by such rilles as descend into the same. For west of
Kenwith two becks in one chanell doo fall into it, which be namelesse,
and but of a little length.
Beneath Tredwair also it crosseth another from by west, that runneth
along by Bettus, Euan, and finallie méeting with the Teifie, they run as
one by Kennarth (still parting Cardigon shire from Carmardin, as it hath
doone sith it met with the Matherne) and so forth on till they ioine
Cheach.
with the Cheach, which rising southeast aboue chappell Euan, dooth part
Carmardine and Brechnocke shire in sunder, till it come vnto the Teifie.
From this confluence, and being still a limit vnto Cardigon shire, it
goeth by Marierdine, and so to Cardigon, taking in one rill from by
north descending by Penneralt, by north of Monardiue or Marierdine, and
two other from by southwest, of which the one commeth in beneath
Kilgaron castell, the other from Lantwood north west of Oscoid Mortemer,
which lieth southeast of Cardigan, and then going forward betwéene S.
Dogmaile, & Langordmere, it is not long yer it fall into the Irish sea,
flat west and by north from his vprise, and sending vs forth from
Penlooke into Cardigon shire, wherevnto it hath become march euer
sithence it came from Kellam, or confluence with the Matherne.
Being come into Cardigon shire, and hauing passed the Cardigon point, an
Iland of the same denomination lieng by west thereof, we came vnto the
Airon.
fall of Airon thrée miles beneath Lancleere, it riseth in the mounteines
by a chappell called Blam Peniall belonging to Landwie breuie about
thrée or foure miles from Tiue banks, & runneth on by Lamberwooddie,
Langitho, Tregrigaron hill, Treuilian, Talaferne, and soone after taking
in a rill from by south from Siliam by Lanleir it runneth by Istrade,
Kilkennen, Lanicharin, and finallie into the sea, crossing by the waie
Bidder.
the Bidder brooke, which comming from Dehewide, dooth fall into the same,
Arth.
betwéene Lanchairin, and Henuenneie. The Arth which is the next fall is
no great thing, neither of anie long course, yet somewhat crotched, and
it riseth three or foure miles or more within the land slopewise, and
comming by Lambaderne, and Treueglois, it falleth into the sea,
northeast of Aberarth.
Being past the Arth, & hauing staied there a while bicause we found some
Ris aliàs Wereie.
harborough, we came next of all vnto the Wereie, which riseth of two
heads, aboue whose confluence standeth a towne, named Lanihangle,
Redrod, and from whence it goeth by Lanigruthen to Laristed, & so into
the Ocean. Then went we to the Ystwith, which riseth in the blacke
mounteins aboue Comerstwith, from whence it runneth certeine miles,
Istwith.
vntill it come vnto Ispittie, Istwith, Lananon, Laniler, Lan Nachairne,
Redholl.
and so into the sea, taking withall first the Meleuen, then the Ridall
or Redholl not farre from the shore, whereof I haue this description.
The Ridall riseth in the top of Plimlimmon hill out of a lake named Lin
Ridall, from whence going toward Spittie Kinwen, it crosseth one water
on the north, and another beneth it on the southeast, and so goeth on by
Lanbeder vaure, till it come to Aberistwith, the Istwith, and so into
the Ocean. Hauing thus viewed the Istwith, and taken our selues againe
Salique.
to the sea, we crossed the Salke or Salique brooke, whereof I find this
memoriall.
[Page 136]
The Salique brooke descendeth in like sort from the blacke mounteins, &
going from Vmmaboue, toward Gogarth, or Gogirthar, it receiueth the
Massalique, and from thence goeth into the sea, southwest from his
Massalique.
Lerie.
originall. From hence we went to the Lerie, an indraught of no great
quantitie, neither commodious as I gesse (yet I may be deceiued) for
anie ship to harborough in. It riseth toward the lower ground of the
blacke hils, and going by Lanihangle castell Gwalter, it runneth from
thence northeast into the Ocean, receiuing a rill by the waie from the
hilles which lie by northeast of his course. But what stand I vpon
trifles?
Wie.
Thus haue I brought my selfe out of Caerdigan shire vnto the Wie, which
is limit betwéene it and Merioneth for a certeine space, & being entred
in the mouth thereof we gat vp to the head, minding in the description
of the same to come downeward as in the rest, which we will doo in such
good manner as for the time and want of some information is possible to
be performed. It ariseth in the south part of Snowdonie and goeth on
foorth right to Lammothwie, by Mowdhewie, Mathan laith, and comming
downe to Dinas Mathew, it receiueth two rilles from northwest, and the
third comming by Mailroid called Cludoch from northeast, & so holdeth on
crossing the Angell water at the west, which boundeth Mongomerie shire
Remis.
in part, till it come to Romis, beneath which water it taketh in the
Towin that passeth by Lambrin mawr from Talgarth, and then goeth to
Mathrauerne, crossing another from by north and so foorth to Lanworing,
where it méeteth with the Kerig on the one side, and the Gwidall which
commeth from Dorowen on the other.
After this, our maine riuer goeth by Pengos, and beneath the same taketh
in an influence from southeast, called the Dulas, and another from the
northwest: from thence it hasteth on to Magenillet, or Machenlet, first
crossing the Leuennie from southeast, secondlie the Peniall from
northwest, thirdlie the Einon, fourthlie the Kinar, fiftlie the Cleidor,
these thrée last rehearsed falling into it from southeast, & the last
hauing his course by Langwinhelin and so into the sea, as mine
instruction vpholdeth. It séemeth in some mens iudgements to part
Northwales and Westwales in sunder, and the same which in Latine hight
Deuus, in Welsh or British Difi or Dewie, whereof the Latine doth séeme
to fetch his sound. But to procéed with the rest of such falles and
waters as are to be found in this countie. Going therfore northwestward
we come to a fall frō the north called Towen Merionneth which is the
mouth of the Difonnie streame, a pretie riuer rising in the hilles aboue
Lanihangle, and west of castell Traherne receiueth the Ridrijc, which
commeth from Chadridrijc hill, by Tallillin castell, Treherie, and so
into the Difonnie from southeast, fetching his course by Lanegrin, and
so into the sea within fiue miles thereof.
Being past this we did cast about by the Sarnabigh point, till we came
to the Lingouen becke, and so to the Barre, which is a faire water, and
therefore worthie to be with diligence described, yet it is not called
Bar from the head, but rather Moth or Derie, for so are the two chiefe
heads called out of which this riuer descendeth, and are about six miles
west of the Lin, out of which the Dée hath his issue, and betwéene which
the Raran vaure hilles are situat and haue their being. After the
ioining of the two heds of this Barre, as I name it from the originall,
it receiueth a rill from northeast called Cain, & another beneath the
same, comming from Beurose wood, and so holdeth on towards the south
betwéene Laniltid and Kemmor abbaie, till it meet a little by west of
Dolgelth with the Auon vaure, which comming also out of the Woodland
soile, & taking in a rill from Gwannas, hasteth northwestward (by
Dolgelth) to ioine with the Barre, and being met they receiue the
Kessilgunt, then the Hirgun, & after a course of foure to fiue miles it
falleth into the sea, hauing watered the verie hart & inward parts of
this shire. From hence we crosse the Skethie which runneth by Corsogdale
and Lanthwie, aliàs Lanthonie, then the Lambader which receiuing the
Artro aboue Lambader, doth fall into the sea, southeast of the point,
and flat south of Landango, which is a towne situat on the other side of
the turning.
Ho.
After this we passed by Aberho, so named of the riuer Ho, that falleth
there into the sea, and commeth thither from the Alpes or hils of
Snowdonie, mounteins, no lesse fertile for grasse, wood, cattell, fish
[Page 137]
and foule, than the famous Alpes beyond the seas, whereof all the
writers doo make so honorable report. From hence we sailed by Abermawr
Mawr.
or mouth of Mawr, which commeth in like sort from Snowdonie, and taketh
Artro.
diuerse riuers with him whose names I doo not know. Then vnto the Artro
a brooke, whose head commeth from by north east, and in his course
receiueth the Gedar on the north side, and so holdeth on till it fall
into the sea, after a few windlesses which it maketh as it passeth.
After this we come to Traith vehan, which is the fall of the Drurid, a
pretie riuer comming from the marches of Caernaruonshire, which passing
by Festimog, soone after taketh in the Cunwell, then the Velenrid; and
so holdeth on to Deckoin, where it falleth into the said Traith. For of
the other two rilles that lie by south hereof, and haue their issue also
into the same, I make but small accompt, bicause their quantitie is not
great. Next vnto this we haue Traith mawr,
Farles.
whereinto the Farles hath his issue, a riuer proceeding
from Snowdonie or the Snowdon hils, descending by Bethkelerke and
Lanwrothen, without mixture of anie other water in all his course and
passage. It is parcell of the march also betwéene Merioneth and
Caernaruon shires. From Traith mawr we passe by the Krekith, and come to
another water descending from the north by Lanstidwie, and after that to
the Moie, whose mouthes are so néere togither, that no more than halfe a
mile of the land dooth seeme to kéepe them in sunder.
Erke.
Then come we vnto the Erke, a pretie brooke descending from Madrijn
hils, into whose mouth two other of no lesse quantitie than it selfe doo
séeme to haue their confluence, and whose courses doo come along from
the west and northwest; the most southerlie being called Girch, and the
other the Hellie: except my memorie doo faile me. Then casting about
toward the south (as the coast lieth) we saw the Abersoch or mouth of
Soch.
the Soch riuer vpon our right hand, in the mouth whereof, or not farre
by south thereof lie two Ilands, of which the more northerlie is called
Tudfall, and the other Penrijn: as Leland did obserue. I would set downe
the British names of such townes and villages as these waters passe by;
but the writing of them (for want of the language) is so hard to me,
that I choose rather to shew their falles and risings, than to corrupt
their denominations in the writing: and yet now and then I vse such
words as our Englishmen doo giue vnto some of them, but that is not
often, where the British name is easie to be found out and sounded.
After this, going about by the point, and leauing Gwelin Ile on the
Daron.
right hand, we come to Daron riuer, wherevpon standeth Aberdaron a
quarter of a mile from the shore betwixt Aberdaron and Vortigernes vale,
where the compasse of the sea gathereth in a head, and entereth at both
Edarne beck.
ends. Then come we about the point to Edarne becke, a mile and more
south of Newin. And ten or twelue miles from hence is the Vennie brooke,
whose course is little aboue so manie miles; and not farre from it is
the Liuan, a farre lesse water, comming also from the east: and next
vnto that another, wherinto the Willie by south and the Carrog by north
after their coniunction doo make their common influence. Hauing passed
this riuer, we cast about toward the north east, and enter at Abermenaie
ferrie, into the streicts or streame called Menaie, betweene Angleseie
and the maine, méeting first of all with the Gornaie, which commeth from
the Snowdonie out of the Treuennian lake, and passeth by Lanunda into
the sea or Menaie streame at Southcrocke. Next of all we meet with the
Saint, which commeth from Lin Lanbereie, passeth by Lanihangle, and so
falleth into the Menaie at Abersaint, which is on the southwest side of
Caernaruon: on the other side also of the said towne is the Skeuernocke,
whereby it standeth betweene two riuers, of which this hath his head not
farre from Dinas Orueg.
Then come we (saith Leland) to Gwiniwith mirith (or Horsse brooke) two
miles from Moilethon, and it riseth at a Well so called full a mile from
thence. Moilethon is a bowe shot from Aberpowle, from whence ferrie
Conte.
botes go to the Termone or Angleseie. Aberpowle runneth thrée miles into
the land, and hath his head foure miles beyond Bangor in Meneie shore:
and here is a little comming in for botes bending into the Meneie. Aber
Gegeine.
Gegeine commeth out of a mounteine a mile aboue, and Bangor (thorough
Torronnen.
which a rill called Torronnen hath his course) almost a mile aboue it.
[Page 138]
Ogwine.
Aber Ogwine is two miles aboue that; it riseth at Tale linne, Ogwine
poole, fiue miles aboue Bangor in the east side of Withow. Aber Auon is
Auon.
Lannar. Vehan.
Duegeuelth.
two miles aboue Aberogwene, and it riseth in a poole called Lin man Auon,
thrée miles off. Auon lan var Vehan riseth in a mounteine therby, and
goeth into the sea, two miles aboue Duegeuelth. Auon Duegeuelth is three
miles aboue Conweie, which rising in the mounteins a mile off, goeth by
it selfe into Meneie salt arme. On the said shore also lieth Conweie,
and this riuer dooth run betwixt Penmaine Maur, and Penmaine Vehan. It
riseth about three miles from Penmaclon hils which lie about sixtie
miles from Conweie abbeie, now dissolued out of a lake called Lin
Conweie, and on the north and west of this riuer standeth the towne of
Conweie, which taketh his name thereof.
Téec.
This riuer (which Ptolomie calleth Toesobius, as I take it) after the
deriuation thereof from the head, passeth on the west side by Spittieuan
and Tiherio, beneath which it taketh in a streame comming from the east
out of Denbighshire, deriued from thrée heads, and of the greatest
called Nag. Soone after also another, and then the third, which commeth
in from the west by Lanpen Mawr: next of all the Leder on the same side,
which commeth by Dolathelan castell: and aboue that from a Lin of the
Ligow.
same denomination. Beneath this and selfe hand lieth likewise the Ligow
or Ligwie, procéeding from two lakes, that is, the Mumber and the Ligow.
On the right hand as we still descend, is the Coid, then the Glin, & a
little lower we méet with the Lin Gerioneth: and after we be past
another on the right side, we come to the Perloid, which commeth out of
Lin Cowlid, to the Ygan, to the Idulin, to the castell Water on the
left, & then to the Melandider on the right, without the sight of anie
other, till we come almost to Conweie, where we find a notched streame
comming from by west, and called Guffen or Gyffin into the same by one
chanell on the northeast side of the towne, beneath Guffin or Gyffin,
and ouer against Lansanfraid in Denbighshire; so farre as I now
remember. Some part of Carnaruonshire stretcheth also beyond Aber
Ormeshed.
Conweie, or the fall of Conweie, & it is called Ormeshed point, wherein
also is a rill, whose fall into the sea is betwéene Penrin and
Landright. And thus we haue made an end of the chéefe waters which are
to be found in this countie.
The next is a corner of Denbigh, by which we doo as it were step ouer
into Flintshire, and whose first water is not great, yet it commeth from
southwest, and falleth into the north or Irish sea called Virginium,
beneath Landilas; as the next that commeth south from Bettas dooth the
Gele.
like thrée miles beneath Abergele, and is not onelie called Gele (as the
name it selfe importeth) but also noted to take his course through the
Canges. Hauing thus gone ouer the angle of Denbighshire, that lieth
betwéene those of Carnaruon and Flint, we come next of all vnto Aber
Cluide, or the fall of Clotha or Glota, which is a streame not to be
shortlie intreated of. It riseth among certeine hilles, which lie not
far distant from the confines of Merioneth and Denbighshires. Southeast
from his fall, and hauing run foure or fiue miles from the head, it
Maniton.
commeth about to Darwen, taking in the Maniton on the left hand, and the
Mespin on the right: and soone after the third from bywest, whose head
is not farre from Gloucanocke. Beneath Ruthen also it taketh in the
Leueneie: and after that another, and the third, all on the right hand,
Cluedoch.
and so holdeth on till it méet with the Cluedoch, then with the Ystrade,
which passeth by Whitchurch on the left hand. After which we come to the
Whéeler on the right, and so to his ioining with the Elwie, which is
Elwie.
beneath S. Asaphes, a bishops sée that is inuironed with them both. This
Elwie riseth aboue Gwitherne, & beneath Lanuair taketh in the Alode,
which commeth from lin Alode, by Lansannan, and ioineth with him fiue
miles beneath Langrenew. The Cluda therefore and the Elwie being met,
the confluence passeth on to the sea by Rutland castell, where it taketh
in the Sarne, which commeth from by east, and hath a course almost of
sixteene miles. From hence we tooke sea toward the Dée mouth: and as we
passed by the rest of the shore, we saw the fall of a little brooke
néere Basing Werke, of another néere to Flint, of the third at Yowleie
castell, which with his two armes in maner includeth it; and the fourth
beneath Hawarden hold, which in like sort goeth round about the same, &
from whence we came to the Dée, where we landed and tooke vp our lodging
[Page 139]
in Chester. In this place also it was no hard matter to deliuer & set
downe the names of such riuers and streames as are also to be found in
Angleseie, finding my selfe to haue some leasure and fit opportunitie
for the same: and imagining a iourneie thither also, as vnto the other
places mentioned in this description, whither as yet it hath not béene
my hap to trauell: I thought it not amisse to take it also in hand, and
performe it after this maner.
Ferrieng therefore ouer out of Carnaruonshire to Beaumarise, I went by
land without crossing of anie riuer or streame worthie memorie, till I
came to the Brant, which hath his fall not farre from the southest point
of that Iland. This Brant riseth farre vp in the land, not farre from
Lauredenell, and holding on his course southward to Lanthoniell Vaall,
it goeth on to Bodoweruch, Langainwen, and so into the sea.
The next fall we came vnto was called Maltrath, and it is producted by
the confluence of two riuers, the Geuennie and the Gint, who ioine not
farre from Langrestoll. This also last rehearsed hath his head neere to
Penmoneth, the other being forked riseth in the hillie soile aboue
Tregaion and Langwithlog: so that part of the Iland obteineth no small
commoditie and benefit by their passage. Next vnto this we came vnto the
Fraw.
Fraw, whose head is neere to Langinewen, and passage by Cap Maer; after
which it falleth into a lake, from whence it goeth east of Aberfraw, and
so into the sea. The next riuer hath no name to my knowledge: yet hath
it a longer course than that which I last described. For it riseth two
or thrée miles aboue Haneglosse: and passing from thence to
Treualghmaie, after the descent of foure miles, it falleth into the sea.
After this we came to an other, which riseth more to Cap legan ferwie,
and falleth into the sea; southeast of the little Iland, which is called
Ynis Wealt, it is namelesse also as the other was: and therefore hauing
small delight to write thereof, we passed ouer the salt créeke by a
bridge into Cair Kibie, which by the same, is as it were cut from the
maine Iland, and in some respect not vnworthie to be taken for an Ile.
In the north side therefore of Cair Kibie is a little rill or créeke:
but whether the water thereof be fresh or salt, as yet I doo not
remember.
This place being viewed, I came backe againe by the aforesaid bridge,
into the maine of Angleseie, and going northwards I find a fall inforced
by thrée riuerets, each one hauing his course almost south from other;
and the last falling into the confluence of the two first, not halfe a
mile from the west, where I first espied the streame: the name of the
Linon.
Allo.
most northerlie is Linon, of the second Allo; but the third is
altogither namelesse for aught that I can learne, wherefore it shall not
be necessarie to spend anie time in the further searching of his course.
Being past this, we went northwards till we came to the point, and then
going eastward, we butted vpon the fall of a certeine confluence growing
by the ioining of the Nathanon and the Geger, which méet beneath and
néere to the Langechell. And after the same we passed on somewhat
declining southward by the Hillarie point, toward the southeast, till we
came to the Dulesse: and from thence to Pentraeth water: after which we
turned northward, then eastward; and finallie southward, till we came to
Langurdin; from whence vnto Beaumarise (where began our voiage) we find
not anie water worthie to be remembred. And thence I go forward with the
description of the Dee.
Dée or Deua.
The Dee or Deua (as Ptolomie calleth it) is a noble riuer, & breeder of
the best trout, whose head is in Merioneth shire, about thrée miles
aboue the lake, situate in the countie of Penthlin, and called Lin
Tegnis, whose streame yet verie small, by reason of the shortnesse of
his course, falleth into the said lake, not far from Lanullin. There are
sundrie other waters which come also into the said lake, which is foure
or five miles in length, and about two miles ouer; as one from by south,
whose fall is east, and not manie furlongs from the Dee: another hath
his issue into the same by Langower: the third on the north side of
Lanullin, named Leie: the fourth at Glanlintegid called Jauerne, the
lake it selfe ending about Bala, and from thence running into the
Trowerin.
Trowerin, a pretie streame, and not a little augmented by the Kelme and
Monach which fall by north into the same, and ioineth with the Dée south
of Lanuair; from whence forth it looseth the name, and is afterward
Ruddoch.
called Dée. East of Bala in like sort it receiueth the Ruddoch, then the
Cleton.
[Page 140]
Cleton, and so passing on by Landright to Langar, it méeteth with a
confluence procéeding from the Alwen and the Giron, of which this riseth
in the hils aboue Langham, the other in the mounteines about fiue or six
miles by northwest of Lanihangle in Denbighshire, where (as I gesse) it
falleth into the ground; and afterward rising againe betwéene Lanihangle
and Bettus, it holdeth on about two miles, and then ioineth with the
Giron, full six miles aboue Dole, and before it come to the Dee. From
hence the Dee goeth by Lansanfraid, and the marches of Merioneth into
Denbighshire, and so to Langellon, Dinas, Bren, &c: kéeping his course
Gristioneth.
by certeine windlesses, till he receiue the Gristioneth, descending by
Ruabon, then another est of the same; the third from by west called
Keriog.
Keriog (whose head is not farre from the bounds of Merioneth and course
by Lanarmon, Lansanfraid, and Chirke) the fourth from south east out of
Shropshire, called Morlais, and so passeth as bounds betwéene
Denbighshire, and the Outliggand of Flintshire, to wit by Bistocke on
the one side and Bangor on the other, till it come to Worthenburie:
whereabout it receiueth a chanell descending from foure influences, of
which one commeth by Penlie chappell, the second from Hamnere, which
goeth downe by Emberhall, and falleth in a little by east of the other;
the third from Blackmere (by Whitchurch) &c: and the fourth from
betwéene Chad and Worsall. These two later méeting aboue nether
Durtwich, doo hold on to Talerne, as mine information instructeth me.
From Wrothenburie the Dee goeth northwestwards toward Shocklige, méeting
Cluedoch.
by the waie with the confluence of the Cluedoch (or Dedoch originall
mother to those trouts for which the Dée is commended) and descendeth
Gwinrogh.
from Capell Moinglath) and the Gwinrogh, that runneth through Wrexham,
both ioining a mile and more beneath Wrexham, not far from Hantwerne.
Soone after also our maine riuer receiueth another becke from by east,
which is bound on the northwest side to the Outliggand of Flintshire,
and so passeth on betwéene Holt castell and Ferneton, Almere and Pulton,
as march betwéene Denbighshire and Cheshire, and then taketh in the
Alannus.
Alannus or Alen; a pretie riuer and worthie to be described. The head of
this Alen therefore is in Denbighshire, and so disposed that it riseth
in two seuerall places, ech being two miles from other, the one called
Alen Mawr, the other Alen Vehan, as I doo find reported. They méet also
beneath Landegleie, and run northwards till they come beyond Lanuerres,
where meeting with a rill comming from by west, it runneth on to the
Mold to Horsheth, and so in and out to Greseford, taking the Cagidog
from southwest with it by the waie; then to Traue Alen, and so into the
Dée, a mile and more aboue the fall of Powton becke, which also
descendeth from southwest out of Flintshire, and is march vnto the same,
euen from the verie head. After which confluence the Dée hauing
Chestershire on both sides, goeth to Aldford with a swift course, where
it méeteth with the Beston brooke, whereof I doo find this description
following.
Beston.
"The Beston water riseth in the wooddie soile betwéene Spruston and
Beston castell with a forked head, and leauing Beston towne on the
northeast, it goeth to Tarneton, and to Hakesleie, where it diuideth it
selfe in such wise, that one branch thereof runneth by Totnall,
Goldburne, and Léehall, to Alford, and so into the Dée, the other by
Stapleford, Terwine, Barrow, Picton, and Therton, where it brancheth
againe, sending foorth one arme by Stanneie poole, and the parke side
into Merseie arme, toward the northwest, and another by southwest, which
commeth as it were backe againe, by Stoke, Croughton, Backeford,
Charleton, Vpton, the Baites, and so vnder a bridge to Chester ward,
where it falleth into the Dée arme at Flockes brooke, excluding Wirall
on the northwest as an Iland, which lieth out like a leg betwéene the
Merseie and the Dée armes, and including and making another fresh Iland
within the same, whose limits by northwest are betwéene Thorneton,
Chester, & Aldford, on the northeast Thorneton and Hakesleie, and on the
southeast Hakesleie and Aldford, whereby the forme thereof dooth in part
resemble a triangle." And thus much of the Dée, which is a troublesome
streame when the wind is at southwest, and verie dangerous, in so much
that few dare passe thereon. Sometimes also in haruest time it sendeth
downe such store of water, when the wind bloweth in the same quarter,
[Page 141]
that it drowneth all their grasse and corne that groweth in the lower
grounds néere vnto the bankes thereof. Certes it is about thrée hundred
foot, at his departure from the Tignie, and worthilie called a litigious
streame; because that by often alteration of chanell, it inforceth men
to séeke new bounds vnto their lands, for here it laieth new ground, and
there translateth and taketh awaie the old, so that there is nothing
more vnconstant than the course of the said water. Of the monasterie
Bangor also, by which it passeth after it hath left Orton bridge, I find
this note, which I will not omit, because of the slaughter of monks made
sometime néere vnto the same. For although the place require it not, yet
I am not willing altogither to omit it.
The situation of the monasterie of Bangor.
This abbeie of Bangor stood sometime in English Mailor, by hither and
south of the riuer Dée. It is now ploughed ground where that house
stood, by the space of a Welsh mile (which reacheth vnto a mile and an
halfe English) and to this day the tillers of the soile there doo plow
vp bones (as they saie) of those monks that were slaine in the quarrell
of Augustine, and within the memorie of man some of them were taken vp
in their rotten weeds, which were much like vnto those of our late
blacke monks, as Leland set it downe: yet Erasmus is of the opinion,
that the apparell of the Benedictine monks was such as most men did
weare generallie at their first institution. But to proceed. This abbeie
stood in a valleie, and in those times the riuer ran hard by it. The
compasse thereof likewise was as the circuit of a walled towne, and to
this daie two of the gates may easilie be discerned, of which the one is
named Port Hogan lieng by north, the other Port Clais situat vpon the
south. But the Dée hauing now changed his chanell, runneth through the
verie middest of the house betwixt those two gates, the one being at the
left a full halfe mile from the other. As for the squared stone that is
found hereabout, and the Romane coine, there is no such necessitie of
the rehersall therof, but that I may passe it ouer well inough without
anie further mention.
Being past the Dée we sailed about Wirall, passing by Hibrie or Hilbrée
Iland, and Leuerpole, Nasse, making our entrie into Merseie arme by
Leuerpole hauen, where we find a water falling out betwéene Seacombe and
the Ferie, which dooth in maner cut off the point from the maine of
Wirall. For rising néere to the northwest shore, it holdeth a course
directlie toward the southeast by Wallaseie and Poton, and so leaueth
all the north part beyond that water a peninsula, the same being three
square, inuironed on two sides with the Ocean, & on the third with the
aforesaid brooke, whose course is well néere three miles except I be
deceiued. Frō hence entring further into the hauen, we find another
fall betwéene Bebington and Brombro chappell, descending from the
hilles, which are seene to lie not farre from the shore, and thence
crossing the fall of the Beston water, we come next of all vnto the
Wiuer.
Wiuer, than the which I read of no riuer in England that fetcheth more
or halfe so many windlesses and crinklings, before it come at the sea.
It riseth at Buckle hilles, which lie betwéene Ridleie and Buckle
townes, and soone after making a lake of a mile & more in length called
Ridleie poole, it runneth by Ridleie to Chalmondlie.
Thence it goeth to Wrenburie, where it taketh in a water out of a moore
Combrus.
that commeth from Marburie: and beneth Sandford bridge the Combrus from
Combermer or Comber lake: and finallie the third that commeth from about
Moneton, and runneth by Langerslaw, then betweene Shenton and Atherlie
parkes, and so into the Wiuer, which watereth all the west part of
England, and is no lesse notable than the fift Auon or third Ouze,
whereof I haue spoken alreadie. After these confluences it hasteth also
Betleie.
to Audlem, Hawklow, and at Barderton crosseth the Betleie water, that
runneth by Duddington, Widdenberie, and so by Barderton into the
aforesaid streame. Thence it goeth to Nantwich, but yer it come at
Salop.
Marchford bridge, it meeteth with a rill called Salopbrooke (as I gesse)
comming from Caluerleie ward, and likewise beneath the said bridge, with
Lée and Wuluarne.
the Lée and the Wuluarne both in one chanell, wherof the first riseth at
Weston, the ether goeth by Copnall. From hence the Wiuer runneth on to
Minchion and Cardeswijc, and the next water that falleth into it is the
Ashe.
Ashe (which passeth by Darnall Grange) and afterward going to Warke, the
vale Roiall, and Eaton, it commeth finallie to Northwich where it
[Page 142]
Dane.
receiueth the Dane, to be described as followeth. The Dane riseth in the
verie edges of Chester, Darbishire, & Staffordshire, and comming by
Warneford, Swithamleie and Bosleie, is a limit betwéene Stafford and
Darbie shires, almost euen from the verie head, which is in Maxwell
forrest.
Bidle.
It is not long also yer it doo méet with the Bidle water, that commeth
by Congerton, and after the confluence goeth vnto Swetham, the
Heremitage, Cotton and Croxton, there taking in two great waters,
Whelocke.
whereof the one is called Whelocke, which comming from the edge of the
countie by Morton to Sandbach, crosseth another that descended from
church Cawlhton, and after the confluence goeth to Warmingham, ioining
also beneath Midlewish with the Croco or Croxston, the second great
water, whose head commeth out of a lake aboue Bruerton (as I heare) and
Croco.
thence both the Whelocke and the Croco go as one vnto the Dane, at
Croxton, as the Dane dooth from thence to Bostocke, Dauenham, Shebruch,
Shurlach, and at Northwich into the foresaid Wiuer. After this
confluence the Wiuer runneth on to Barneton, and there in like sort
receiueth two brookes in one chanell, whereof one commeth from aboue
Allostocke, by Holme & Lastocke, the other from beyond Birtles mill, by
Piuereie.
Chelford (where it taketh in a rill called Piuereie) thence to ouer
Waterlesse.
Peuer, Holford, and there crossing the Waterlesse brooke (growing of two
becks and ioining at nether Tableie) it goeth foorth to Winshambridge,
and then méeting with the other, after this confluence they procéed till
they come almost at Barneton, where the said chanell ioineth with a
pretie water running thorough two lakes, whereof the greatest lieth
betwéene Comberbach, Rudworth and Marburie. But to go forward with the
course of the maine riuer. After these confluences our Wiuer goeth to
Warham, Actonbridge, and Dutton, ouer against which towne, on the other
side it méeteth with a rill, comming from Cuddington: also the second
going by Norleie, and Gritton, finallie the third soone after from
Kimsleie, and then procéedeth on in his passage by Asheton chappell,
Frodesham, Rockesauage, and so into the sea: and this is all that I doo
find of the Wiuer, whose influences might haue beene more largelie set
downe, if mine iniunctions had béene amplie deliuered, yet this I hope
may suffice for his description, and knowledge of his course.
Merseie.
The Merseie riseth among the Peke hils, and from thence going downe to
the Woodhouse, and taking sundrie rilles withall by the waie, it
becommeth the confines betwéene Chester and Darbishires. Going also
toward Goitehall, it méeteth with a faire brooke increased by sundrie
Goite.
waters called Goite, whereof I find this short and briefe description.
The Goite riseth not far from the Shire méere hill (wherein the Doue and
the Dane haue their originall) that parteth Darbishire and Chestershire
in sunder, and thence commeth downe to Goite houses, Ouerton, Taxhall,
Frith.
Shawcrosse, and at Weibridge taketh in the Frith, and beneath Berdhall,
Set.
the Set that riseth aboue Thersethall and runneth by Ouerset. After this
confluence also the Merseie goeth to Goite hall, & at Stockford or
Tame.
Stopford towne méeteth with the Tame, which diuideth Chestershire and
Lancastershire in sunder, and whose head is in the verie edge of
Yorkeshire, from whence it goeth southward to Sadleworth Firth, then to
Mukelhirst, Stalie hall, Ashdon Vnderline, Dunkenfield, Denton, Reddish,
and so at Stockford into the Merseie streame, which passeth foorth in
like sort to Diddesbirie, receiuing a brooke by the waie that commeth
from Lime parke, by Brumhall parke and Chedle.
Irwell.
From Diddesbirie it procéedeth to Norden, Ashton, Aiston, Flixston,
where it receiueth the Irwell a notable water, and therefore his
description is not to be omitted before I doo go forward anie further
with the Merseie, although it be not nauigable by reason of sundrie
rockes and shalowes that lie dispersed in the same. It riseth aboue
Bacop, and goeth thence to Rosendale, and in the waie to Aitenfield it
taketh in a water from Haselden. After this confluence it goeth to
Ræus, or Rache.
Newhall, Brandlesham, Brurie, and aboue Ratcliffe ioineth with the Rache
Leland speaketh of the Corue water about
Manchester; but I know nothing of his course.
water, a faire streame and to be described when I haue finished the
Irwell, as also the next vnto it beneath Ratcliffe, bicause I would not
haue so manie ends at once in hand wherewith to trouble my readers.
Being therfore past these two, our Irwell goeth on to Clifton, Hollond,
Edgecroft, Strengwaies, and to Manchester, where it vniteth it selfe
Yrke.
with the Yrke, that runneth thereinto by Roiton Midleton, Heaton hill,
[Page 143]
Medlockte.
and Blackeleie. Beneath Manchester also it méeteth with the Medlocke
that commeth thither from the northeast side of Oldham, and betwéene,
Claiton and Garret Halles, and so betwéene two parkes, falling into it
about Holne. Thence our Irwell going forward to Woodsall, Whicleswijc,
Ecles, Barton, and Deuelhom, it falleth néere vnto Flixton, into the
water of Merseie, where I will staie a while withall, till I haue
brought the other vnto some passe, of which I spake before.
Rache.
The Rache, Rech or Rish consisteth of sundrie waters, whereof ech one in
maner hath a proper name, but the greatest of all is Rache it selfe,
which riseth among the blacke stonie hils, from whence it goeth to
Beile.
Littlebrough, and being past Clegge, receiueth the Beile, that commeth
thither by Milneraw chappell. After this confluence also, it méeteth
Sprotton.
with a rill néere vnto Rachedale, and soone after with the Sprotton
Sudleie.
water, and then the Sudleie brooke, whereby his chanell is not a little
increased, which goeth from thence to Grisehirst and so into the Irwell,
Bradsha.
before it come at Ratcliffe. The second streame is called Bradsha. It
riseth of two heds, aboue Tureton church, whence it runneth to Bradsha,
Walmesleie.
and yer long taking in the Walmesleie becke, they go in one chanell till
they come beneath Bolton in the More. From hence (receiuing a water that
commeth from the roots of Rauenpike hill by the way) it goeth by Deane
and Bolton in the More, and so into Bradsha water, which taketh his waie
to Leuermore, Farnworth, Leuerlesse, and finallie into the Irwell, which
I before described, and whereof I find these two verses to be added at
the last
Irke, Irwell, Medlocke, and Tame,
When they meet with the Merseie, do loose their name.
Now therefore to resume our Merseie, you shall vnderstand that after his
confluence with the Irwell, he runneth to Partington, and not farre from
Gles.
thence interteineth the Gles, or Glesbrooke water, increased with
sundrie armes, wherof one commeth from Lodward, another from aboue
Houghton, the third from Hulton parke, and the fourth from Shakerleie:
and being all vnited néere vnto Leigh, the confluence goeth to Holcroft,
and aboue Holling gréene into the swift Merseie. After this increase the
said streame in like sort runneth to Rigston, & there admitteth the
Bollein brooke.
Bollein or Bolling brooke water into his societie, which rising néere
the Chamber in Maxwell forrest goeth to Ridge, Sutton, Bollington,
Prestbirie, and Newton, where it taketh in a water comming from about
Pot Chappell, which runneth from thence by Adlington, Woodford,
Birkin.
Wimesleie, Ringeie, and Ashleie, there receiuing the Birkin brooke that
commeth from betwéene Allerton and Marchall, by Mawberleie, and soone
Mar.
after the Marus or Mar, that commeth thereinto from Mar towne, by
Rawstorne, and after these confluences goeth on to Downham, and ouer
against Rixton beneath Crosford bridge into the Merseie water, which
procéeding on, admitteth not another that méeteth with all néere Lim
before it go to Thelwall. Thence also it goeth by Bruche and so to
Warrington, a little beneath crossing a brooke that commeth from Par by
Browseie, Bradleie, and Saukeie on the one side, and another on the
other that commeth thither from Gropenhall, and with these it runneth on
to nether Walton, Acton grange, and so to Penkith, where it interteineth
Bold.
Grundich.
the Bold, and soone after the Grundich water on the other side, that
passeth by Preston, and Daresbirie. Finallie our Merseie going by
Moulton, it falleth into Lirepoole, or as it was called of old
Liuerpoole hauen, when it is past Runcorne. And thus much of the
Merseie, comparable vnto the Wiuer, and of no lesse fame than most
riuers of this Iland.
Tarbocke.
Being past these two, we come next of all to the Tarbocke water, that
falleth into the sea at Harbocke, without finding anie mo till we be
past all Wirall, out of Lirepoole hauen, and from the blacke rockes that
lie vpon the north point of the aforesaid Iland. Then come we to the
Alt or Ast.
Altmouth, whose fresh rising not far into the land, commeth to Feston,
and soone after receiuing another on the right hand, that passeth into
it by Aughton, it is increased no more before it come at the sea.
Neither find I anie other falles till I méet with the mouth of the
Duglesse or Dulesse.
Yarrow and Duglesse, which haue their recourse to the sea in one chanell
as I take it. The Duglesse commeth from by west of Rauenspike hill, and
yer long runneth by Andertonford to Worthington, and so (taking in two
or thrée rilles by the waie) to Wigen, where it receiueth two waters in
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one chanell, of which one commeth in south from Brin parke, the other
from northeast. Being past this, it receiueth one on the north side from
Standish, and another by south from Hollond, and then goeth on toward
Taud or Skelmere.
Rufford chappell taking the Taud withall, that descendeth from aboue
Skelmersdale towne, and goeth through Lathan parke, belonging (as I
heare) vnto the earle of Derbie. It méeteth also on the same side,
Merton.
with Merton méere water, in which méere is one Iland called Netholme
beside other, and when it is past the hanging bridge, it is not long yer
it fall into the Yarrow.
Yarrow.
Bagen.
The Yarrow riseth of two heads, whereof the second is called Bagen
brooke, and making a confluence beneath Helbie wood, it goeth on to
Burgh, Eglestan, Crofton, and then ioineth next of all with the
Dugglesse, after which confluence, the maine streame goeth foorth to
Bankehall, Charleton, How, Hesket, and so into the sea. Leland writing
of the Yarrow, saith thus of the same, so fare as I now remember. Into
the Dugglesse also runneth the Yarrow, which commeth within a mile or
thereabout of Chorleton towne, that parteth Lelandshire from
Derbieshire. Vnder the foot of Chorle also I find a rill named Ceorle,
and about a mile and a halfe from thence a notable quarreie of stones,
whereof the inhabitants doo make a great boast and price. And hitherto
to Leland.
Ribble.
The Ribble, a riuer verie rich of salmon, and lampreie, dooth in manner
inuiron Preston in Andernesse, and it riseth neere to Kibbesdale aboue
Gisborne, from whence it goeth to Sawleie or Salleie, Chathburne,
Odder.
Woodington, Clithero castell, and beneath Mitton méeteth the Odder at
north west, which riseth not farre from the crosse of Gréet in
Yorkeshire, and going thence to Shilburne, Newton, Radholme parke, and
Stonie hirst, it falleth yer long into the Ribble water. From hence the
Calder.
Ribble water hath not gone farre, but it méeteth with the Calder from
southeast. This brooke riseth aboue Holme church in Yorkeshire, which
lieth by east of Lancastershire, and going by Towleie and Burneleie,
where it receiueth a trifling rill, thence to Higham, and yer long
crossing one water that commeth from Wicoler by Colne, and another by
Pidle.
and by named Pidle brooke, that runneth by New church in the Pidle, it
méeteth with the Calder, which passeth foorth to Paniam; and thence
receiuing a becke on the other side, it runneth on to Altham, and so to
Henburne.
Martholme, where the Henburne brooke dooth ioine withall, that goeth by
Akington chappell, Dunkinhalgh, Rishton, and so into the Calder, as I
haue said before. The Calder therefore being thus inlarged, runneth
foorth to Reade, where maister Nowell dwelleth, to Whallie, and soone
after into Ribble, that goeth from this confluence to Salisburie hall,
Ribchester, Osbastin, Samburie, Keuerden, Law, Ribbles bridge, & then
Darwent.
taketh in the Darwent, before it goeth by Pontwarth or Pentwarth into
the maine sea. The Darwent diuideth Lelandshire from Andernesse, and it
riseth by east aboue Darwent chappell; and soone after vniting it selfe
Blackeburne.
Rodlesworth.
with the Blackeburne, and Rodlesworth water, it goeth through Houghton
parke, by Houghton towne, to Walton hall, and so into the Ribble. As for
Sannocke.
the Sannocke brooke, it riseth somewhat aboue Longridge chappell, goeth
to Broughton towne, Cotham, Lée hall, and so into Ribble. And here is
all that I haue to saie of this riuer.
Wire.
The Wire riseth eight or ten miles from Garstan, out of an hill in
Wiresdale forrest, from whence it runneth by Shireshed chappell, and
then going by Wadland, or Waddiler, Grenelaw castell (which belongeth to
the erle of Darbie) Garstan, and Kirkland hall, it first receiueth the
Calder. 2.
second Calder, that commeth downe by Edmerseie chappell, then another
chanell increased with sundrie waters, which I will here describe before
I procéed anie further with the Wire. I suppose that the first water is
Plimpton.
called Plimpton brooke, it riseth south of Gosner, and commeth by
Barton.
Cawford hall, and yer long receiuing the Barton becke, it procéedeth
Brooke.
forward till it ioineth with the Brooke rill that commeth from Bowland
forrest, by Claughton hall, where master Brookehales dooth lie, & so
through Mersco forrest. After this confluence the Plime or Plimpton
water méeteth with the Calder, and then with the Wire, which passeth
Skipton.
foorth to Michaell church, and the Raw cliffes, and aboue Thorneton
crosseth the Skipton that goeth by Potton, then into the Wire rode, and
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finallie through the sands into the sea, according to his nature. When
we were past the fall of the Wire, we coasted vp by the salt cotes, to
Coker.
Coker mouth, whose head, though it be in Weresdale forrest, not far from
that of the Wire, yet the shortnesse of course deserueth no description.
Cowdar.
The next is Cowdar, which is comming out of Wire dale, as I take it, is
not increased with anie other waters more than Coker, and therefore I
will rid my hands thereof so much the sooner.
Lune.
Being past these two, I came to a notable riuer called the Lune or
Loine, or (as the booke of statutes hath) Lonwire Anno 13 Ric. 2. cap.
19, and giueth name to Lancaster, Lonecaster, or Lunecaster, where much
Romane monie is found, and that of diuerse stamps, whose course dooth
rest to be described as followeth; and whereof I haue two descriptions.
The first being set downe by Leland, as master Moore of Catharine hall
in Cambridge deliuered it vnto him. The next I exhibit as it was giuen
vnto me, by one that hath taken paines (as he saith) to search out and
view the same, but verie latelie to speake of. The Lune (saith master
Moore) of some commonlie called the Loine, riseth at Crosseho, in Dent
dale, in the edge of Richmondshire out of thrée heads. North also from
Dent dale is Garsdale, an vplandish towne, wherein are séene manie times
great store of red déere that come downe to feed from the mounteins into
the vallies, and thereby runneth a water, which afterward commeth to
Sebbar vale, where likewise is a brooke méeting with Garsdale water, so
that a little lower they go as one into Dent dale becke, which is the
riuer that afterward is called Lune, or Lane, as I haue verie often
noted it. Beside these waters also before mentioned, it receiueth at the
foot of Sebbar vale, a great brooke, which commeth out of the Worth,
betwéene Westmerland and Richmondshire, which taking with him the
aforesaid chanels, dooth run seauen miles yer it come to Dent dale foot.
From hence it entreth into Lansdale, corruptlie so called, peraduenture
for Lunesdale, & runneth therein eight or nine miles southward, and in
this dale is Kirbie. Hitherto master Moore, as Leland hath exemplified
that parcell of his letters. But mine other note writeth hereof in this
Burbecke.
manner. Burbecke water riseth at Wustall head, by west, and going by
Wustall foot to Skaleg, it admitteth the Breder that descendeth thither
Breder.
from Breder dale. From hence our Burbecke goeth to Breder dale foot, &
so to Tibarie, where it méeteth with foure rilles in one bottome, of
which one commeth from besides Orton, another from betwéene Rasebecke
and Sunbiggin, the third and fourth from each side of Langdale: and
after the generall confluence made, goeth toward Roundswath, aboue which
Barrow.
it vniteth it selfe with the Barrow. Thence it runneth to Howgill,
Delaker, Firrebanke, and Killington, beneath which it meeteth with a
Dent.
water comming from the Moruill hilles, and afterward crossing the Dent
brooke, that runneth thither from Dent towne, beneath Sebbar, they
continue their course as one into the Burbecke, from whence it is called
Lune. From hence it goeth to Burbon chappell, where it taketh in another
rill comming from by east, then to Kirbie, Lansbele, and aboue
Whittenton crosseth a brooke comming from the countie stone by Burros,
Greteie.
and soone after beneath Tunstall and Greteie, which descending from
about Ingelborow hill, passeth by Twiselton, Ingleton, Thorneton,
Burton, Wratton, and néere Thurland castell, toucheth finallie with the
Lune, which brancheth, and soone after vniteth it selfe againe. After
Wennie.
this also it goeth on toward New parke, and receiueth the Wennie, and
Hinburne.
the Hinburne both in one chanell, of which this riseth north of the
crosse of Greteie, and going by Benthams and Roberts hill, aboue Wraie
Rheburne.
taketh in the Rheburne that riseth north of Wulfecrag. After this
confluence also aboue New parke, it maketh his gate by Aughton,
Laughton, Skirton, Lancaster, Excliffe, Awcliffe, Soddaie, Orton, and so
into the sea. Thus haue you both the descriptions of Lune, make your
conference or election at your pleasure, for I am sworne to neither of
them both.
Docker.
The next fall is called Docker, and peraduenture the same that Leland
Kerie.
dooth call the Kerie, which is not farre from Wharton, where the rich
Kitson was borne, it riseth north of Docker towne, and going by Barwijc
hall, it is not increased before it come at the sea, where it falleth
into the Lune water at Lunesands. Next of all we come to Bitham beck,
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which riseth not far from Bitham towne and parke, in the hilles, where
about are great numbers of goates kept and mainteined, and by all
likelihood resorteth in the end to Linsands.
Being past this, we find a forked arme of the sea called Kensands: into
the first of which diuerse waters doo run in one chanell, as it were
from foure principall heads, one of them comming from Grarrig hall,
another frō by west of Whinfield, & ioining with the first on the east
Sprota.
side of Skelmere parke. The third called Sprot or Sprota riseth at
Sloddale, & commeth downe by west of Skelmer parke, so that these two
brookes haue the aforesaid parke betwéene them, & fall into the fourth
east of Barneside, not verie farre in sunder. The fourth or last called
Ken.
Ken, commeth from Kentmers side, out of Ken moore, in a poole of a mile
compasse, verie well stored with fish, the head whereof, as of all the
baronie of Kendall is in Westmerland, & going to Stauelope, it taketh in
a rill from Chappleton Inges. Then leauing Colnehead parke by east, it
passeth by Barneside, to Kendall, Helston, Sigath, Siggeswijc,
Leuenbridge, Milnethorpe, and so into the sea. Certes this Ken is a
pretie déepe riuer, and yet not safelie to be aduentured vpon, with
boates and balingers, by reason of rolling stones, & other huge
substances that oft annoie & trouble the middest of the chanell there.
Winstar.
The other péece of the forked arme, is called Winstar, the hed wherof is
aboue Winstar chappell, & going downe almost by Carpmaunsell, &
Netherslake, it is not long yer it fall into the sea, or sands, for all
this coast, & a gulfe from the Ramside point to the Mealenasse, is so
pestered with sands, that it is almost incredible to sée how they
increase. Those also which inuiron the Kenmouth, are named Kensands: but
such as receiue the descent from the Fosse, Winander, and Sparke, are
called Leuesands, as I find by sufficient testimonie. The mouth or fall
of the Dodon also is not farre from this impechment: wherefore it is to
be thought, that these issues will yer long become verie noisome, if not
Winander.
choked vp altogither. The Winander water riseth about Cunbalrasestones,
from whence it goeth to Cangridge, where it maketh a méere: then to
Ambleside, and taking in yer it come there, two rilles on the left hand,
and one on the right that commeth by Clapergate, it maketh (as I take
it) the greatest méere, or fresh water in England; for I read it is ten
miles in length. Finallie, comming to one small chanell aboue Newbridge,
it reacheth not aboue six miles yer it fall into the sea. There is in
Fosse.
like sort a water, called the Fosse that riseth néere vnto Arneside, and
Tillerthwates, and goeth foorth by Grisdale, Satrethwate, Rusland,
Powbridge, Bowth, and so falleth with the Winander water into the maine
sea. On the west side of the Fosse also commeth another through Furnesse
felles, and from the hilles by north thereof, which yer long making the
Thurstan lake not far from Hollinhow, and going by Bridge end, in a
narrow channell, passeth foorth by Nibthwaits, Blareth, Cowlton, &
Sparke.
Sparke bridge, and so into the sea. Hauing passed the Leuen or
Conisands, or Conistonesands, or Winander fall (for all is one) I come
Lew.
to the Lew, which riseth at Cewike chappell, and falleth into the sea
Rawther.
beside Plumpton. The Rawther descending out of low Furnesse, hath two
heads, whereof one commeth from Penniton, the other by Vlmerstone
abbeie, and ioining both in one chanell, they hasten into the sea,
whither all waters direct their voiage. Then come we to another rill
southwest of Aldingham, descending by Glaiston castell; and likewise the
fourth that riseth néere Lindell, and running by Dawlton castell and
Furnesse abbeie, not farre from the Barrow head, it falleth into the sea
ouer against Waueie and Waueie chappell, except mine aduertisements
misleade me.
The Dodon, which from the head isDodon.
bound vnto Cumberland and Westmerland,
commeth from the Shire stone hill bottome, and going by Blackehill,
Southwake, S. Iohns, Vffaie parke, & Broughton, it falleth into the
orltwater, betwéene Kirbie, and Mallum castell. And thus are we now come
vnto the Rauenglasse point, and well entred into the Cumberland countie.
Comming to Rauenglasse, I find hard by the towne a water comming from
two heads, and both of them in lakes or pooles, whereof one issueth out
Denocke.
of Denocke or Deuenocke méere, and is called Denocke water, the other
[Page 147]
Eske.
named Eske from Eske poole which runneth by Eskedale, Dalegarth, and
soone after meeting with the Denocke, betwéene Mawburthwate and
Rauenglasse, falleth into the sea. On the other side of Rauenglasse also
Mite.
commeth the Mite brooke, from Miterdale as I read. Then find we another
which commeth from the hils, and at the first is forked, but soone after
making a lake, they gather againe into a smaller chanell: finallie
Brenge.
meeting with the Brenge, they fall into the sea at Carleton southeast, as
Cander.
I wéene of Drig. The Cander, or (as Leland nameth it) the Calder,
commeth out of Copeland forrest, by Cander, Sellefield, and so into the
sea. Then come we to Euer water, descending out of a poole aboue
Coswaldhow, and thence going by Euerdale, it crosseth a water from
Arladon, and after procéedeth to Egremond, S. Iohns, and taking in
another rill from Hide, it is not long yer it méeteth with the sea.
The next fall is at Moresbie, whereof I haue no skill. From thence
therefore we cast about by saint Bees to Derwentset hauen, whose water
Dargwent.
is truelie written Dargwent or Deruent. It riseth in the hils about
Borrodale, from whence it goeth vnto the Grange, thence into a lake, in
which are certeine Ilands, and so vnto Keswijc, where it falleth into
Burthméere.
the Bure, whereof the said lake is called Bursemere, or the Burthmere
poole. In like sort the Bure or Burthmere water, rising among the hils
goeth to Tegburthesworth, Forneside, S. Iohns, and Threlcote: and there
Grise.
méeting with a water from Grisdale, by Wakethwate, called Grise, it
runneth to Burnesse, Keswijc, and there receiueth the Darwent. From
Keswijc in like sort it goeth to Thorneswate (and there making a plash)
to Armanswate, Isell, Huthwate and Cokermouth, and here it receiueth the
Cokar.
Cokar, which rising among the hils commeth by Lowsewater, Brakenthwate,
Lorton, and so to Cokarmouth towne, from whence it hasteth to Bridgeham,
and receiuing a rill called the Wire, on the south side that runneth by
Dein, it leaueth Samburne and Wirketon behind it, and entereth into the
sea.
Wire.
Leland saith that the Wire is a créeke where ships lie off at rode, and
that Wirketon or Wirkington towne dooth take his name thereof. He addeth
also that there is iron and coles, beside lead ore in Wiredale.
Neuerthelesse the water of this riuer is for the most part sore
troubled, as comming thorough a suddie or soddie more, so that little
Elmus.
good fish is said to liue therein. But to proceed. The Elme riseth in
the mines aboue Amautrée, and from Amautre goeth to Yeresbie, Harbie,
Brow, and there taking in a rill on the left hand comming by Torpennie,
it goeth to Hatton castell, Alwarbie, Birthie, Dereham, and so into the
sea. Thence we go about by the chappell at the point, and come to a baie
serued with two fresh waters, whereof one rising westward goeth by
Warton, Rabbie, Cotes, and so into the maine, taking in a rill withall
Croco.
from by south, called Croco, that commeth from Crockdale, by Bromefield.
Vamus.
The second is named Wampoole broocke, & this riseth of two heads,
whereof one is about Cardew. Thence in like sort it goeth to Thuresbie,
Croston, Owton, Gamlesbie, Wampall, the Larth, and betwéene Whiteridge
and Kirbie into the saltwater. From hence we double the Bowlnesse, and
come to an estuarie, whither thrée notable riuers doo resort, and this
is named the Solueie mouth. But of all, the first excéedeth, which is
called Eden, and whose description dooth follow here at hand.
Eden.
The Eden well fraught with samon, descendeth (as I heare) from the hils
in Athelstane moore at the foot of Hussiat Moruell hil, where Swale also
riseth, and southeast of Mallerstang forrest. From thence in like maner
it goeth to Mallerstang towne, Pendragon castell, Wharton hall, Netbie,
Hartleie castell, Kirkebie Stephan, and yer it come at great Musgrane,
Helbecke.
it receiueth thrée waters, whereof one is called Helbecke, bicause it
commeth from the Derne and Elinge mounteins by a towne of the same
Bellow.
denomination. The other is named Bellow, and descendeth from the east
mounteins by Sowarsbie, & these two on the northeast: the third falleth
from Rauenstandale, by Newbiggin, Smardale, Soulbie, Blaterne, and so
Orne.
into Eden, that goeth from thence by Warcop; and taking in the Orne
Moreton.
Dribecke.
about Burelles on the one side, and the Morton becke on the other, it
hasteth to Applebie, thence to Cowlbie, where it crosseth the Dribecke,
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Trowt becke.
Liuenet.
thence to Bolton, and Kirbie, and there méeting with the Trowt becke,
and beneath the same with the Liuenet (whereinto falleth an other water
from Thurenlie méeting withall beneath Clebron) it runneth finallie into
Eden. After the confluences also the Eden passeth to Temple, and soone
Milburne.
Blincorne.
after meeting with the Milburne and Blincorne waters, in one chanell, it
runneth to Winderwarth and Hornebie, where we will staie till I haue
described the water that meeteth withall néere the aforesaid place
Vlse.
called the Vlse.
This water commeth out of a lake, which is fed with six rils, whereof
Marke.
one is called the Marke, and néere the fall thereof into the plash is a
towne of the same name; the second hight Harteshop, & runneth from
Harteshop.
Harteshop hall by Depedale; the third is Paterdale rill; the fourth
Paterdale.
Roden.
Glent Roden, the fift Glenkguin, but the sixt runneth into the said
Glenkguin.
lake, south of Towthwate. Afterward when this lake commeth toward Pole
towne, it runneth into a small chanell, & going by Barton, Dalumaine, it
taketh in a rill by the waie from Daker castell. Thence it goeth to
Stockebridge, Yoneworth, and soone after méeteth with a pretie brooke
Loder.
called Loder, comming from Thornethwate by Bauton, and héere a rill;
then by Helton, and there another; thence to Askham, Clifton, and so
ioining with the other called Vlse, they go to Brougham castell, Nine
churches, Hornebie, and so into Eden, taking in a rill (as it goeth)
that commeth downe from Pencath. Being past Hornebie, our Eden runneth
to Langunbie, and soone after receiuing a rill that commeth from two
heads, and ioining beneath Wingsell, it hasteth to Lasenbie, then to
Kirke Oswald (on ech side whereof commeth in a rill from by east) thence
to Nonneie, and there a rill, Anstable, Cotehill, Corbie castell,
Wetherall, Newbie: where I will staie, till I haue described the Irding,
and such waters as fall into the same before I go to Carleill.
Irding.
The Irding ariseth in a moore in the borders of Tindale, néere vnto
Terne.
Horsse head crag, where it is called Terne becke; vntill it come to
Spicrag hill, that diuideth Northumberland and Gillesland in sunder,
from whence it is named Irding. Being therfore come to Ouerhall, it
Pultrose.
receiueth the Pultrose becke, by east, and thence goeth on to
Ouerdenton, Netherdenton, Leuercost, and Castelstead, where it taketh in
Cambocke.
the Cambocke, that runneth by Kirke Cambocke, Askerton castell, Walton,
and so into Irding, which goeth from thence to Irdington, Newbie, & so
into Eden. But a little before it come there, it crosseth with the
Gillie.
Gillie that commeth by Tankin, and soone after falleth into it. After
these confluences, our Eden goeth to Linstocke castell, (and here it
interteineth a brooke, comming from Cotehill ward by Aglionbie) and then
vnto Carleill, which is now almost inuironed with foure waters.
Pedar aliàs Logus.
For beside the Eden it receiueth the Peder, which Leland calleth Logus
from southeast. This Peder riseth in the hils southwest of Penruddocke,
from whence it goeth to Penruddocke, then to Grastocke castell,
Cateleie, and Kenderside hall, and then taking in a water from Vnthanke,
it goeth to Cathwade, Pettrelwaie, Newbiggin, Carleton, and so into
Bruferth.
Eden, northeast of Carleill. But on the north side the Bruferth brooke
dooth swiftlie make his entrance, running by Leuerdale, Scalbie castell,
and Housedon; as I am informed. The third is named Candan (if not Deua
after Leland) which rising about the Skidlow hils, runneth to Mosedale,
Caldbecke, Warnell, Saberham, Rose castell, Dawston, Brounston,
Harrington, and west of Carleill falleth into Eden, which going from
thence by Grimsdale, Kirke Andros, Beaumont, falleth into the sea
beneath the Rowcliffe castell. And thus much of the Eden, which Leland
neuerthelesse describeth after another sort, whose words I will not let
to set downe here in this place, as I find them in his commentaries.
Vlse after Leland.
The Eden, after it hath run a pretie space from his head, méeteth in
time with the Vlse water, which is a great brooke in Westmerland, and
rising aboue Maredale, a mile west of Loder, it commeth by the late
Loder.
dissolued house of Shappe priorie, thrée miles from Shappe, and by
Brampton village into Loder or Lodon. Certes this streame within halfe a
mile of the head, becommeth a great lake for two miles course, and
afterward waxing narrow againe, it runneth foorth in a meane and
Aimote.
indifferent bottome. The said Eden in like sort receiueth the Aimote
about thrée miles beneath Brougham castell, and into the same Aimote
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Dacor.
falleth Dacor becke (alreadie touched) which riseth by northwest in
Materdale hils, foure miles aboue Dacor castell, and then going through
Dacor parke, it runneth by east a good mile lower into Eimote, a little
beneath Delamaine, which standeth on the left side of Dacor. In one of
his bookes also he saith, how Carleill standeth betwéene two streames,
Deua.
that is to saie the Deua, which commeth thither from by southwest, and
also the Logus that descendeth from the southeast. He addeth moreouer
Vala.
how the Deua in times past was named Vala or Bala, and that of the names
of these two, Lugibala for Caerleill hath beene deriued, &c. And thus
much out of Leland. But where he had the cause of this his coniecture as
yet I haue not read. Of this am I certeine, that I vse the names of most
riuers here and else-where described, accordinglie as they are called in
my time, although I omit not to speake here and there of such as are
more ancient, where iust occasion mooueth me to remember them, for the
better vnderstanding of our histories, as they doo come to hand.
Leuen.
Blacke Leuen and white Leuen waters, fall into the sea in one chanell,
Lamford.
Eske.
and with them the Lamford and the Eske, the last confluence being not a
full mile from the maine sea. The white and blacke Leuen ioining
Tomunt.
therfore aboue Bucknesse, the confluence goeth to Bracken hill,
Kirkleuenton, and at Tomunt water meeteth with the Eske. In like sort
Kirsop.
Lidde.
the Kirsop ioining with the Lidde out of Scotland at Kirsop foot,
running by Stangerdike side, Harlow, Hathwater, and taking in the Eske
aboue the Mote, it looseth the former name, and is called Eske, vntill
it come to the sea.
Hauing thus gone thorough the riuers of England, now it resteth that we
procéed with those which are to be found vpon the Scotish shore, in such
order as we best may, vntill we haue fetched a compasse about the same,
and come vnto Barwike, whence afterward it shall be easie for vs to make
repaire vnto the Thames, from which we did set forward in the
beginning of our voiage. The first riuer that I met withall on the
Eske.
Scotish coast, is the Eske, after I came past the Solueie, which hath
his head in the Cheuiot hilles, runneth by Kirkinton, and falleth into
the sea at Borow on the sands. This Eske hauing receiued the Ewis
falleth into the Solueie first at Atterith. After this I passed ouer a
little créeke from Kirthell, and so to Anand, whereof the vallie
Anandale dooth séeme to take the name. There is also the Nide, whereof
commeth Nidsdale, the Ken, the Dée, the Crale, and the Bladnecke, and
all these (besides diuerse other small rilles of lesse name) doo lie
vpon the south of Gallowaie.
On the north side also we haue the Ruan, the Arde, the Cassile Dune, the
Burwin, the Cluide (wherevpon sometime stood the famous citie of
Alcluide, and whereinto runneth the Carath) the Hamell, the Dourglesse,
and the Lame. From hence in like maner we came vnto the Leuind mouth,
wherevnto the Blake on the southwest and the Lomund Lake, with his
fléeting Iles and fish without finnes (yet verie holesome) dooth séeme
to make his issue. This lake of Lomund in calme weather ariseth
sometimes so high, and swelleth with such terrible billowes, that it
causeth the best marriners of Scotland to abide the leisure of this
water, before they dare aduenture to hoise vp sailes on hie. The like is
seene in windie weather, but much more perillous. There are certeine
Iles also in the same, which mooue and remooue, oftentimes by force of
the water, but one of them especiallie, which otherwise is verie
fruitfull for pasturage of cattell.
Leue. Long. Goile.
Heke. Robinseie.
Forelan. Tarbat. Lean.
Abir. Arke. Zefe. Sell.
Zord. Owin. Nowisse.
Orne. Lang. Drun.
Hew. Brun. Kile.
Dowr. Faro. Nesse.
Herre. Con. Glasse.
Maur. Vrdall.
Fesse. Calder.
Next vnto this is the Leue, the Rage, the Long, the Goile, & the Heke,
which for the excéeding greatnesse of their heads, are called lakes.
Then haue we the Robinseie, the Foreland, the Tarbat, the Lean, and the
Abir, wherevnto the Spanseie, the Loine, the Louth, the Arke, and the
Zefe doo fall, there is also the Sell, the Zord, the Owin, the Newisse,
the Orne, the Lang, the Drun, the Hew, the Brun, the Kell, the Dowr, the
Faro, the Nesse, the Herre, the Con, the Glasse, the Maur, the Vrdall,
the Fers (that commeth out of the Caldell) the Fairsoke, which two latter
lie a little by west of the Orchades, and are properlie called riuers,
bicause they issue onelie from springs; but most of the other lakes,
bicause they come from linnes and huge pooles, or such low bottomes,
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fed with springs, as séeme to haue no accesse, but onelie recesse of
waters, whereof there be manie in Scotland.
But to proceed. Hauing once past Dungisbie head in Cathnesse, we shall
yer long come to the mouth of the Wifle, a prettie streame, comming by
Wifle. Browre.
Clin. Twin. Shin.
Sillan. Carew.
Nesse. Narding.
Spaie. Downe.
Dée. Eske.
south of the mounteins called the Maidens pappes. Then to the Browre,
the Clin, the Twin (whereinto runneth three riuers, the Shin, the
Sillan, and Carew) the Nesse, which beside the plentie of samon found
therein is neuer frosen, nor suffereth yee to remaine there, that is
cast into the poole. From thence we come vnto the Narding, the Finderne,
the Spaie (which receiues the Vine) the Fitch, the Bulich, the Arrian,
the Leuin, and the Bogh, from whence we saile vntill we come about the
Buquhan head, and so to the Downe, and Dee: which two streames bring
forth the greatest samons that are to be had in Scotland, and most
plentie of the same. Then to the north Eske, whereinto the Esmond
runneth aboue Brechin, the south Eske, then the Louen and the Taw, which
is the finest riuer for water that is in all Scotland, and wherevnto
most riuers and lakes doo run. As Farlake, Yrth, Goure, Loich, Cannach,
Linell, Loion, Irewer, Erne, and diuerse other besides small rillets
which I did neuer looke vpon.
Then is there the lake Londors, vpon whose mouth saint Andrewes dooth
stand, the lake Lewin vnto whose streame two other lakes haue recourse
in Fifland, and then the Firth or Fortha, which some doo call the
Pictish and Scotish sea, whither the kingdome of the Northumbers was
sometime extended, and with the riuer last mentioned (I meane that
commeth from Londors) includeth all Fife, the said Fortha being full of
oisters and all kinds of huge fish that vse to lie in the déepe. How
manie waters run into the Firth, called by Ptolomie Lora, it is not in
my power iustlie to declare: yet are there both riuers, rills, & lakes
Clacke. Alon. Dune.
Kerie. Cambell. Cumer.
Tere. Man. Torkesan.
Rosham. Mushell. Blene.
that fall into the same, as Clacke, Alon, Dune, Kerie, Cambell, Cumer,
Tere, Man, Torkeson, Rosham, Mushell, Blene, and diuerse other which I
call by these names, partlie after information, and partlie of such
townes as are neere vnto their heads. Finallie, when we are past the
Haie, then are we come vnto the Twede, whereinto we entred, leauing
Twede.
Barwike on the right hand and his appurtenances, wherein Halidon hill
standeth, and conteineth a triangle of so much ground beyond the said
riuer, as is well néere foure miles in length, and thrée miles in bredth
in the broad end: except mine information doo faile me.
The Twede (which Ptolomie nameth Toualsis or Toesis, & betwéene which
and the Tine the countie of Northumberland is in maner inclosed, and
watred with sundrie noble riuers) is a noble streame and the limes or
bound betwéene England & Scotland, wherby those two kingdomes are now
diuided in sunder. It riseth about Drimlar in Eusbale (or rather out of
a faire well (as Leland saith) standing in the mosse of an hill called
Airstane, or Harestan in Twede dale ten miles from Pibble) and so
comming by Pibble, Lander, Dribiwgh, Lelse, Warke, Norham and
Hagarstone, it falleth into the sea beneath Barwike, as I heare. Thus
saith Leland. But I not contented with this so short a discourse of so
long a riuer & briefe description of so faire a streame, will ad
somewhat more of the same concerning his race on the English side, and
rehearsall of such riuers as fall into it. Comming therefore to Ridam,
it receiueth betwéene that and Carham a becke, which descendeth from the
hilles that lie by west of Windram. Going also from Ridam by
Longbridgham (on the Scotish side) and to Carham, it hasteth immediatlie
to Warke castell on the English, and by Spilaw on the other side, then
to Cornewall, Cald streame, and Tilmouth, where it receiueth sundrie
waters in one botome which is called the Till, and whose description
insueth here at hand.
Till.
Certes there is no head of anie riuer that is named Till, but the issue
of the furthest water that commeth hereinto, riseth not farre from the
head of Vswaie in the Cheuiot hilles, where it is called Brennich,
whereof the kingdome of Brennicia did sometime take the name. From
thence it goeth to Hartside, Ingram, Branton, Crawleie, Hedgeleie,
Beueleie, and Bewijc, beneath which it receiueth one water comming from
Rodham by west, and soone after a second descending from the Middletons,
Bromis.
and so they go as one with the Bromish, by Chatton to Fowbreie (where
they crosse the third water falling downe by north from Howborne by
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Heselbridge) thence to Woller, there also taking in a rill that riseth
about Middleton hall, and runneth by Hardleie, Whereleie, and the rest
afore remembred, wherby the water of Bromis is not a little increased,
and after this latter confluence beneath Woller, no more called Bromis
but the Till, vntill it come at the Twede. The Till passing therefore by
Weteland and Dedington, méeteth soone after with a faire streame comming
Bowbent.
from by southwest, which most men call the Bowbent or Bobent.
It riseth on the west side of the Cocklaw hill, and from thence hasteth
to Hattons, beneath the which it ioineth from by southeast with the
Hellerborne, and then goeth to Pudston, Downeham, Kilham, and a little
by north of Newton Kirke, and betweene it and west Newton, it taketh in
another water called Glin, comming from the Cheuiot hilles by Heth
poole, and from thenseforth runneth on without anie further increase, by
Copland Euart, and so in the Till. The Till for his part in like sort
after this confluence goeth to Broneridge, Fodcastell, Eatall castell,
Heaton, & north of Tilmouth into the Twede, or by west of Wesell, except
my memorie dooth faile me. After this also our aforesaid water of Twede
descendeth to Grotehugh, the Newbiggins, Norham castell, Foord,
Whitaker.
Lungridge, & crossing the Whitaker on the other side from Scotland
beneath Cawmill, it runneth to Ordo, to Barwike, and so into the Ocean,
leauing (as I said) so much English ground on the northwest ripe, as
lieth in manner of a triangle betwéene Cawmils, Barwike, and Lammeton,
which (as one noteth) is no more but two miles and an halfe euerie waie,
or not much more; except he be deceiued.
Being past this noble streame, we came by a rill that descendeth from
Bowsden by Barington. Then by the second which ariseth betwéene
Middleton and Detcham or Dereham, and runneth by Eskill and the Rosse,
next of all to Warnemouth, of whose backe water I read as followeth. The
Warne.
Warne or Gwerne riseth southwest of Crokelaw, and going by Warneford,
Bradford, Spindlestone, and Budill, it leaueth Newton on the right hand,
and so falleth into the Ocean, after it hath run almost nine miles from
the head within the land, and receiued a rill beneath Yessington, which
commeth downe betweene Newland and Olchester, and hath a bridge beneath
the confluence, which leadeth ouer the same. From Warnemouth we sailed
by Bamborow castell, and came at last to a fall betweene Bedwell and
Newton. The maine water that serueth this issue, riseth aboue Carleton
from the foot of an hill, which séemeth to part the head of this and
that of Warne in sunder. It runneth also by Carleton, Tonleie, Doxford,
Brunton, and Tuggell, and finallie into the sea, as to his course
apperteineth.
Aile, or Alne,
aliàs Chalne.
From this water we went by Dunstanbugh castell, vnto the Chalne or
Alnemouth, which is serued with a pretie riueret called Alne, the head
whereof riseth in the hils west of Alnham towne, and called by Ptolomie,
Celnius. From thense also it runneth by Rile, Kile, Eslington, and
Whittingham, where it crosseth a rill comming from by south, and beneath
the same, the second that descendeth from Eirchild at Brone, & likewise
the third that riseth at Newton, and runneth by Edlingham castell and
Lemmaton (all on the southeast side or right hand) and so passeth on
further, till it meet with the fourth, comming from aboue Shipleie from
by north, after which confluence it goeth to Alnewijc, & then to
Dennijc, receiuing there a rillet from by south and a rill from by
north, and thence going on to Bilton, betweene Ailmouth towne and
Wooddon, it sweepeth into the Ocean.
Cocket.
The Cocket is a goodlie riuer, the head also thereof is in the roots of
Kemblespeth hils, from whence it goeth to Whiteside, and there meeting
Vswaie.
with the Vswaie (which descendeth from the north) it goeth a little
Ridleie.]
further to Linbridge, and there receiueth the Ridleie by southwest, and
after that with another, called (as I thinke) the Hoc, which commeth
from the Woodland and hillie soile by Allington, & falleth into the
same, west of Parke head. It ioineth also yer long with the Ridland,
which commeth in north by Bilstone, and then hieth to Sharpton, to
Yardop.
Harbotle, where it crosseth the Yardop water by south, then to
Woodhouse, and swallowing in a little becke by the waie from southwest,
to Bickerton, to Tossons, Newton, and running apace toward Whitton
towre, it taketh a brooke withall that commeth in northwest of Alnham,
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néere Elihaw, and goeth by Skarnewood, ouer nether Trewhet, Snitter, and
Throxton, and soone after vniteth it selfe with the Cocket, from whence
It may be Leland mistaketh
Tickington water for one of these.
they go together to Rethburie, or Whitton towre, to Halie, to
Brinkehorne, Welden, taking withall soone after the Tod or burne called
Tod, which falleth in from by south, then to Elihaw, Felton (receiuing
thereabout the Fareslie brooke, that goeth by Wintring by south east,
and Sheldike water, that goeth by Hason, to Brainsaugh by north) and
from thence to Morricke, Warkworth castell, and so into the sea.
There is furthermore a little fall, betwéene Hawkeslaw and Drurith,
which riseth about Stokes wood, goeth by east Cheuington, and
Lune.
Whittington castell, and afterward into the Ocean. The Lune is a pretie
brooke rising west of Espleie, from whence it goeth to Tritlington,
Wansbecke.
Vgham, Linton, and yer long in the sea. Wansbecke (in old time Diua) is
far greater than the Lune. It issueth vp west and by north of west
Whelpington, thence it runneth to Kirke Whelpington, Wallington,
Middleton, and Angerton. Heere it méeteth with a water running from
about Farnelaw by the grange, and Hartburne on the north, and then going
from Angerton, it runneth by Moseden to Mitforth, and there in like
Font.
maner crosseth the Font, which issuing out of the ground about
Newbiggin, goeth by Nonneie Kirke, Witton castell, Stanton, Nunriding,
Newton, and so into the Wansbecke, which runneth in like maner from
Mitford to Morpheth castell (within two miles whereof it ebbeth and
floweth) the new Chappell, Bottle castell, Shepwash, and so into the
sea, thrée miles from the next hauen which is called Blithe.
Blithe.
Blithe water riseth about kirke Heaton, and goeth by Belfe, Ogle, and
(receiuing the Port aliàs the Brocket, that springeth east of S.
Oswolds) passeth by Portgate, Whittington, Fennike hall, Madfennes,
Hawkewell, the Grange, & Dissingtons. After it hath taken in the Pont
Hartleie.
from the east (whose head is not farre from that of Hartleie streame)
and is past Barwijc on the hill, it runneth by Harford, Bedlington,
Cowpon, and at Blithes nuke, into the deepe Ocean. Hartleie streamelet
riseth in Wéeteslade parioch, goeth by Haliwell, and at Hartleie towne
yeeldeth to the sea.
The Tine or Tinna, a riuer notablie stored with samon, and other good
fish, and in old time called Alan, riseth of two heads, whereof that
North Tine.
called north Tine, is the first that followeth to be described. It
springeth vp aboue Belkirke in the hils, & thence goeth to Butterhawgh
Shele.
(where it receiueth a confluence of Kirsop and the Shele) thence to
Cragsheles, Leapelish (receiuing on the south a rill out of Tindale)
then to Shilburne, against which it taketh in a becke that commeth out
of Tindale called Shill, also two other on the same side, betweene Yarro
and Fawston hall, and the third at Thorneburne, and so goeth on to
Grenested, and there carrieth withall a fall, from by north also made by
the confluence of one rill comming by Thecam, and another that passeth
by Holinhead, and likewise another on the south comming from Tindale, by
Chuden, Dalacastell, and Brokes: after which our north Tine goeth by
Hellaside, to Billingham, and at Rhedes mouth méeteth with the Ridde, a
verie prettie water, whose description is giuen me after this maner.
Ridde.
The Ridde therefore riseth within thrée miles of the Scotish march, as
Leland saith, & commeth through Riddesdale, wherevnto it giueth the
name. Another writeth how it riseth in the roots of the Carter, and
Redsquibe hilles, and yer it hath gone farre from the head, beside a few
Shelhop.
little rilles it taketh in the Spelhop or Petop from the north and the
Cheslop.
Cheslop on the south, beside sundrie other wild rils nameless and
obscure, as one on the north side next vnto the Petop or Spelhop;
another by south out of Riddesdale, the third west of Burdop, the fourth
runneth by Wullaw to Rochester, then two from southwest, another from by
north which goeth by Durtburne, and is called Durt or Durth, then the
Smalburne from the west. Next to the same is the Otter or Otterburne on
the north side also the Ouereie, and finallie the last which descendeth
from Ellesdon hilles, by Munkrige and ioineth with our Ridde, northwest
of Nudhowgh, after which the said Ridde goeth by Woodburne, Risingham,
Leame, and so into the Tine, a mile lower than Belingham or Bilingham,
which standeth somewhat aloofe from north Tine and is (as I take it) ten
[Page 153]
miles at the least aboue the towne of Hexham. After this confluence it
3. Burnes.
Shitlington.
passeth to Léehall, to Carehouse (crossing Shitlington becke by west
which also receiueth the Yare on the south side of Shitlington) another
also beneath this on the same side, made by the confluence of
Workesburne, and Middleburne, at Roseburne, beside the third called
Morleis or Morelée aboue, and Simons burne beneath Shepechase, and
likewise the Swine from by north that runneth by Swinburne castell, next
of all the Riall from the northeast, which commeth by Erington, & so
holding his course directlie southwards, it goeth by S. Oswolds through
the Pictishwall, to Wall, and so into south Tine, beneath Accam, and
northwest (as I doo wéene) of Hexham.
Tine. S.
The south Tine ariseth in the Cheuiot hils, and yer it hath gone farre
from the head, it méeteth with Esgill on the east, and another rill on
Esgill.
the west, and so going by the houses toward Awsten moore, it ioineth
with Schud from by west, and soone after with the Vent from by east
Vent.
aboue Lowbier. From Lowbier it goeth to Whitehalton, to Kirke Haugh
Gilders beck.
(crossing the Gilders becke on the one side, and the Alne on the other)
to Thornehope, where it is inlarged with a water on each side, to
Knare.
Williamstone, and almost at Knaresdale, taketh in the Knare, and then
runneth withall to Fetherstone angle. At Fetherstone angle likewise it
méeteth with Hartleie water, by southwest comming from Sibins or
Sibbenes, another a little beneath from southeast, and thence when it
commeth to Billester castell, it carieth another withall from by west,
Thirlewall called Rippall which riseth in the forrest of Lowes, and
goeth by the Waltowne, Blinkinsop, & Widon, and after which confluence
it taketh in another from by north rising west of Swinsheld, which goeth
by Grenelegh to Haltwestell: thence going by Vnthanke, it crosseth
another rill from by south, descending from the hilles that lie north of
Todlewood, and then proceeding vnto Wilmotteswijc, it admitteth the
Wilmots becke from the south, and another running by Bradleie hall on
the north side of Beltingham; after which it méeteth with the Alen a
proper water, and described after this maner.
East Alen.
The Alen or Alon hath two heads, whereof one is called east Alen, the
other west Alen. The first of them riseth southeast of Sibton Sheles, &
going by Sundorp, it taketh in a rill withall from by est; after which
confluence it runneth to Newshele, Allington, Caddon, Old towne, & in
West Alen.
the course to Stauertpele, méeteth with the west Alen. The west Alen
riseth in Killop low hilles aboue Wheteleie sheles, from whence it goeth
to Spartwell, Hawcopole, Owston, and taking in a rill thereabouts, it
procéedeth on to Permandbie, and crossing there another rill in like
maner from by west, it goeth by Whitefield, and ioining soone after with
the est Alen, they run as one to Stauert poole, Plankford, and so into
the Tine betweene Beltingham and Lées, from whence the Tine runneth on
by Lees Haddon, Woodhall, Owmers, Whernebie, Costleie, & so by Warden,
till it crosse the north Tine, and come to Hexham, from whence it goeth
to Dilstan, crossing two waters by the waie, whereof one commeth from by
south, and is called the Wolsh, which holdeth his course by Stelehall,
and Newbiggin receiueth another comming from Grimbridge: the other
called Dill somewhat lower descending from Hedleie, and running by
Rising, till it fall into the south side of our streame from Dilstan, it
goeth to Bywell castell, ouer against which it receiueth a rill that
runneth by Hindleie, thence it hasteth to Eltingham, Pruddo, Willam,
(and there it meeteth with another becke) then to Reton, Blaidon, and
Darwent.]
next of all ioineth with the Darwent, from by south.
This riuer riseth aboue Knewdon, and Rudlamhope in Northumberland, from
two heads: the northerlie being called Dere, and the southerlie the
Guent: and ioining so well yer long in chanell as in name, they runne on
to Humsterworth, new Biggin, Blankeland, Acton, Aspersheles,
Blackheadlie, Brentfield side, Pansheles, Ebchester, and there taking in
a water from Hedleie in Northumberland, néere to Blacke hall in the
bishoprike, it goeth on to Spen, Hollinside, Wickham, Swalwell, and so
into Tine, which passeth from thence by Elswijc, and méeting with
another water comming from Shildraw, by Rauensworth castell to Redhugh,
it goeth on to Newcastell, Fellin, Netherheworth, Walker, Waswon,
[Page 154]
Hedburne, and next to Jerro or Girwie, where Beda dwelled in an abbeie;
now a gentlemans place (although the church be made a parish church,
wherevnto diuerse townes resort, as moonke Eaton where Beda was borne,
which is a mile from thence, Southsheles, Harton, Westhow, Hebburne,
Hedworth, Wardleie, Fellin, Follinsbie, the Heworthes) and from thence
to the south and Northsheles, and so into the sea, fiue miles by
northwest of Weremouth, and (as I gesse) somewhat more.
Beneath the confluence in like sort of both the Tines, standeth
Corbridge, a towne sometime inhabited by the Romans, and about twelue
miles from Newcastell, and hereby dooth the Corue run, that meeteth yer
long with the Tine. Not farre off also is a place called Colchester,
wherby Leland gesseth that the name of the brooke should rather be Cole
Corue.
than Corue, and in my iudgement his coniecture is verie likelie; for in
the life of S. Oswijn (otherwise a féeble authoritie) the word Colbridge
is alwaies vsed for Corbridge, whereof I thought good to leaue this
short aduertisement. In this countrie also are the thrée vales or dales,
whereof men haue doubted whether théeues or true men doo most abound in
them, that is to saie, Riddesdale, Tuidale, and Liddesdale: this last
being for the most part Scotish, and without the marches of England.
Neuerthelesse, sithens that by the diligence cheefelie of maister
Gilpin, and finallie of other learned preachers, the grace of God
working with them, they haue béene called to some obedience and zeale
vnto the word, it is found that they haue so well profited by the same,
that at this present their former sauage demeanour is verie much abated,
and their barbarous wildnesse and fiercenesse so qualified, that there
is great hope left of their reduction vnto ciuilitie, and better order
of behauiour than hitherto they haue béene acquainted withall. But to
procéed with the rest.
Ptolomie, writing of the Were,
Were.
calleth it Vedra, a riuer well knowne
vnto Beda the famous préest, who was brought vp in a monasterie that
stood vpon the bankes thereof. It riseth of thrée heads in Kelloppeslaw
Burdop.
hill, whereof the most southerlie is called Burdop, the middlemost
Wallop.
Kellop.
Wallop, and the northerliest Kellop, which vniting themselues about S.
Iohns chappell, or a little by west thereof, their confluence runneth
through Stanhope parke, by east Yare, and so to Frosterleie. But yer it
come there, it receiueth thrée rilles from the north in Weredale,
whereof one commeth in by Stanhope, another west of Woodcroft hall, and
the third at Frosterleie afore mentioned. And a little beneath these, I
find yet a fourth on the south side, which descendeth from southwest by
Bolliop, Bishopsleie, Milhouses, and Landew, as I haue béene informed.
Being therefore vnited all with the Were, this streame goeth on to
Wascrop.
Walsingham, there taking in the Wascropburne, beside another at
Bradleie, the third at Harpleie hall (and these on the north side) and
Bedburne.
the fourth betwéene Witton and Witton castell called Bedburne, comming
by Hamsterleie, whereby this riuer dooth now wax verie great. Going
therefore from hence, it hasteth to Bishops Akeland, and beneath it
receiueth the Garondlesse, which (as Leland saith) riseth six miles by
west of Akeland castell, and running south thereof, passeth by west
Akeland, S. Helens Akeland, S. Andrewes Akeland, and bishops Akeland,
and then into the Were which goeth to Newfield, and Willington. Neere
vnto this place also and somewhat beneath Sunderland, the Were, crosseth
one brooke from southest by Het, Croxseie, Cronefurth, Tursdale, and
Cordale, and two other from by northwest in one botome, whereof the
first commeth from aboue Ash by Langleie: the other called Coue, from
aboue Kinchleie by Newbiggin, Lanchester, north Langlie, and through
Beare parke, & so méeting beneath Kelleie or Hedleie with the other,
they fall both as one into the Were, betweene south Sunderland and
Burnall. From hence our riuer goeth on to Howghwell, Shirkeleie, old
Pidding brooke.
Duresme (and there taking in the Pidding brooke by northeast) it goeth
to Duresme, Finkeleie, Harbarhouse, Lumleie castell (where it méeteth
Pilis.
with the Pilis, whose heads are vnited betweene Pelton and Whitwell (and
after called Hedleie) and from thence to Lampton, Harroton, the Bedikes,
Vfferton, Hilton parke, Bishops Weremouth, and so into the sea, betweene
north Sunderland and north Weremouth towne, which now is called moonke
Weremouth of the monasterie sometime standing there, wherin Beda read &
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wrote manie of his bookes, as to the world appeareth. This mouth of Were
is eight miles from Durham, and six from Newcastell. Being thus passed
the Were, & entered into the Bishoprijc, yer we come at the mouth of the
These, almost by two miles, ouer passing a rill that runneth by castell
Eden, and Hardwijc, and likewise Hartlepoole towne, which lieth ouer
into the sea in maner of a byland or peninsula, we meet with a prettie
fall, which groweth by a riuer that is increased with two waters,
whereof one riseth by northwest about Moretons, and goeth by Stotfeld
and Claxton, the other at Dawlton, going by Breerton, Owtham, and
Grettam, finallie ioining within two miles of the sea, they make a
prettie portlet: but I know not of what securitie.
The These, a riuer that beareth and féedeth an excellent samon,
Thesis.
riseth in the Blacke lowes, aboue two miles flat west of the southerlie head of
Were called Burdop, and south of the head of west Alen, and thence
runneth through Tildale forrest: and taking in the Langdon water from
northwest it runneth to Durtpit chappell, to Newbiggin, and so to
Middleton, receiuing by west of each of these a rill comming from by
Hude.
north (of which the last is called Hude) and likewise the Lune afterward
by southwest that riseth at thrée seuerall places, whereof the first is
in the borders of Westmerland and there called Arnegill becke, the
Lune.
second more southerlie, named Lunebecke, and the third by south at
Arnegill.
Bandor Skarth hill, and méeting all aboue Arnegill house, they run
togither in one bottome to Lathekirke bridge, and then into the These.
Hauing therefore met with these, it runneth to Mickelton (& there taking
Skirkewith.
in the Skirkwith water) it goeth to Rombald kirke (crossing there also
Bander.
one rill and the Bander brooke by south west) and then going to Morewood
hag, and Morewood parke, till it come to Bernards castell.
Here also it receiueth the Thuresgill water, comming east of Rere crosse
Rere crosse.
in Yorkeshire, from the spittle in Stanmore by Crag almost southwest,
and being vnited with the These, it goeth by Stratford, Eglesdon,
Rokesbie, Thorpe, Wickliffe, Ouington, Winston, and betweene Barfurth
and Gainfurth méeteth with another rill, that commeth from Langleie
forest, betwéene Rabie castell and Standorpe, of whose name I haue no
knowledge. But to procéed. The These being past Ramforth, runneth
betwéene Persore and Cliffe, and in the waie to Crofts bridge taketh in
Skerne.
the Skerne a pretie water, which riseth about Trimdon, and goeth by
Fishburne, Bradburie, Preston, Braforton, Skirmingham, the Burdens,
Haughton and Darlington, & there finallie meeting with the Cocke becke
or Dare, it falleth in the These beneath Stapleton, before it come at
Crofts bridge, and (as it should séeme) is the same which Leland calleth
Gretteie or Grettie. From thence it runneth to Sockburne, nether
Dunsleie, Middleton row, Newsham, Yarne (crossing a brooke from Leuen
bridge) called Leuen or Leuinus in Latine, whose crinkling course is
notable, and the streame of some called Thorpe, which I find described
in this maner.
The Thorpe riseth of sundrie heads, whereof one is aboue Pinching
Thorpe aliàs Leuand.
Thorpe, from whence it goeth to Nonnethorpe, and so to Stokesleie. The
second hath two branches, and so placed, that Kildale standeth betweene
them both: finallie, méeting beneath Easbie they go by Eaton, and
likewise vnto Stokesleie. The last hath also two branches, whereof one
commeth from Inglesbie, and méeteth with the second beneath Broughton; &
going from thence to Stokesleie, they méet with the Thorpe aboue the
towne, as the other fall into it somewhat beneath the same. From hence
it goeth to Ridleie, and there taketh in another rill comming
Crawthorne.
from Potto, thence to Crawthorne brooke, Leuanton, Milton, Hilton,
Inglesbie, and so into the These, betwéene Yarne and Barwijc, whereof I
made mention before. After this confluence our These hasteth on to
Barwijc, Preston, Thorne abbeie, and Arsham, which standeth on the
southeast side of the riuer almost betweene the falles of two waters,
whereof one descendeth from west Hartburne by long Newton, Elton, &
Stockton; the other from Stillington, or Shillington, by Whitton,
Thorpe, Blackestone, Billingham, and Norton. From Arsham finallie it
goeth to Bellasis, Middleburgh, and so into the sea. Leland describing
this riuer speaketh of the Wiske, which should come thereinto from by
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south vnder Wiske bridge, by Danbie, and Northalarton, and should ioine
with a greater streame: but as yet I find no certeine place where to
bestow the same.
Next of all we come vnto the high Cliffe water, which rising aboue
Hutton, goeth by Gisborow, and there receiueth another streame comming
from by southeast, and then continuing on his course, it is not long yer
it fall into the sea. The next is the Scaling water, which descendeth
from Scaling towne, from whence we come to the Molemouth, not farre from
whose head standeth Molgraue castell: then to Sandford creeke, and next
Eske.
of all to Eske mouth, which riseth aboue Danbie wood, and so goeth to
Castelton, there méeting by the waie with another rill comming from
about Westerdale by Danbie, and so they go on togither by Armar and
Thwate castell, till they ioine with another water aboue Glasdule
chappell, thence to new Biggin, taking yet another brooke with them,
Ibur.
running from Goodland ward, and likewise the Ibur, and so go on without
anie further increase by Busworth, yer long into the sea.
There is also a créeke on each side of Robin Whoodes baie, of whose
names and courses I haue no skill, sauing that Fillingale the towne
dooth stand betwéene them both. There is another not far from Scarborow,
on the north side called the Harwood brooke. It runneth through Harwood
dale by Cloughton, Buniston, and soone after méeting with another rill
on the southwest, they run as one into the ocean sea. From Scarborow to
Bridlington, by Flamborow head, we met with no more falles. This water
therefore that we saw at Bridlington, riseth at Dugglebie, from whence
it goeth to Kirbie, Helperthorpe, Butterwijc, Boithorpe, Foxhole, (where
it falleth into the ground, and riseth vp againe at Rudston) Thorpe,
Cathorpe, Bridlington, and so into the Ocean.
Being come about the Spurne head, I meete yer long with a riuer that
riseth short of Withersie, and goeth by Fodringham and Wisted, from
thence to another that commeth by Rosse, Halsham, Carmingham: then to
the third, which riseth aboue Humbleton, and goeth to Esterwijc, Heddon,
and so into the Humber. The fourth springeth short of Sprotleie, goeth
by Witton, and falleth into the water of Humber at Merflete, as I heare.
Hull.
The next of all is the Hull water, which I will describe also here, and
then crosse ouer vnto the southerlie shore. The furthest head of Hull
water riseth at Kilham, from whence it goeth to Lewthorpe créeke, and so
to Fodringham, a little beneath which it meeteth with sundrie waters,
whereof one falleth in on the northest side, comming from about Lisset;
the second on the northwest banke from Nafferton; the third from
Emmeswell and Kirkeburne: for it hath two heads which ioined beneth
little Drifield, and the fourth which falleth into the same: so that
these two latter run vnto the maine riuer both in one chanell, as
experience hath confirmed. From hence then our Hull goeth to Ratseie, to
Goodalehouse, and then taking in a water from Hornesie mere, it goeth on
through Beuerleie medowes, by Warron, Stoneferrie, Hull, and finallie
into the Humber. Of the rill that falleth into this water from south
Netherwijc, by Skirlow, and the two rilles that come from Cottingham and
Woluerton, I saie no more, sith it is enough to name them in their
order.
Humber.
There is no riuer called Humber from the hed. Wherfore that which we now
call Humber, Ptolomie Abie, Leland Aber, as he gesseth, hath the same
denomination no higher than the confluence of Trent with the Ouze, as
beside Leland sundrie ancient writers haue noted before vs both. Certes
it is a noble arme of the sea, and although it be properlie to be called
Ouze or Ocellus euen to the Nuke beneath Ancolme, yet are we contented
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to call it Humber of Humbrus or Vmar, a king of the Scithians, who
inuaded this Ile in the time of Locrinus, thinking to make himselfe
monarch of the same. But as God hath from time to time singularlie
prouided for the benefit of Britaine, so in this businesse it came to
passe, that Humber was put to flight, his men slaine: and furthermore,
whilest he attempted to saue himselfe by hasting to his ships (such was
the prease of his nobilitie that followed him into his owne vessell, and
the rage of weather which hastened on his fatall daie) that both he and
they were drowned togither in that arme. And this is the onelie cause
wherefore it hath béene called Humber, as our writers saie; and wherof I
find these verses:
Dum fugit obstat ei flumen submergitur illic,
Déque suo tribuit nomine nomen aquæ.
This riuer in old time parted Lhoegres or England from Albania, which
was the portion of Albanactus, the yongest sonne of Brute. But since
that time the limits of Lhoegres haue béene so inlarged, first by the
prowesse of the Romans, then by the conquests of the English, that at
this present daie, the Twede on the one side, & the Solue on the other,
be taken for the principall bounds betweene vs and those of Scotland. In
describing therefore the Humber, I must néeds begin with the Ouze, whose
water bringeth foorth a verie sweet, fat and delicat samon, as I haue
béene informed, beside sundrie other kinds of fish, which we want here
on the south and southwest coasts & riuers of our land, whereof I may
take occasion to speake more at large heerafter.
Vre aliàs Ouze, or Isis.
The Vre therfore riseth in the furthest parts of all Richmondshire,
among the Coterine hilles, in a mosse, toward the west fourtéene miles
beyond Midleham. Being therefore issued out of the ground, it goeth to
Holbecke, Hardraw, Hawshouse, Butterside, Askebridge (which Leland
calleth the Askaran, and saith thereof and the Bainham, that they are
but obscure bridges) then to Askarth, through Wanlesse parke, Wenseleie
bridge (made two hundred yeares since, by Alwin, parson of Winslaw) New
parke, Spennithorne, Danbie, Geruise abbeie, Clifton and Masham. When it
Burne.
is come to Masham, it receiueth the Burne, by south west (as it did the
Wile.
Wile, from verie déepe scarrie rockes, before at Askaran) and diuerse
other wild rilles not worthie to be remembred. From Masham, it hasteth
vnto Tanfield (taking in by the waie a rill by southwest) then to
another Tanfield, to Newton hall, and Northbridge, at the hither end of
Rippon, and so to Huickes bridge. But yer it come there it méeteth with
Skell.
the Skell, which being incorporat with the same, they run as one to
Thorpe, then to Alborow, and soone after receiue the Swale.
Swale.
Here (saith Leland) I am brought into no little streict, what to
coniecture of the méeting of Isis and Vre, for some saie that the Isis
and the Vre doo méet at Borowbridge, which to me dooth séeme to be verie
vnlikelie, sith Isurium taketh his denomination of Isis and Vro, for it
is often séene that the lesse riuers doo mingle their names with the
greater, as in the Thamesis and other is easie to be found. Neither is
there any more mention of the Vre after his passage vnder Borowbridge,
but onelie of Isis or the Ouze in these daies, although in old time it
held vnto Yorke it selfe, which of the Vre is truelie called Vrewijc (or
Yorke short) or else my persuasion dooth faile me. I haue red also
Ewerwijc and Yorwijc. But to procéed, and leaue this superfluous
discourse.
From Borowbridge, the Ouze goeth to Aldborough, and (receiuing the Swale
by the waie) to Aldworke, taking in Vsburne water, from the southwest,
then to Linton vpon Ouze, to Newton vpon Ouze, and to Munketun, méeting
with the Nid yer long, and so going withall to the Redhouses, to
Fosse.
Popleton, Clifton, Yorke (where it crosseth the Fosse) to Foulfoorth,
Middlethorpe, Acaster, & Acaster, Kelfléet, Welehall, Barelebie, Selbie,
Turmonhall, Skurthall, Hokelath, Hoke, Sandhall, Rednesse, Whitegift,
Vslet, Blacketoft, Foxfléet, Brownfléet, and so into Humber.
Ouze.
The course of the Ouze being thus described, and as it were simplie
without his influences, now will I touch such riuers as fall into the
same also by themselues, contrarie to my former proceeding, imagining a
voiage from the Rauenspurne, vntill I come néere to the head of These, &
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so southwards about againe by the bottome of the hillie soile vntill I
get to Buxston, Sheffeld, Scrobie, & the verie south point of Humber
mouth, whereby I shall crosse them all that are to be found in this
walke, & leaue (I doubt) some especiall notice of their seuerall heads
Hull or Hulne.
and courses. The course of the Hull, a streame abounding with sturgeon
and lampreie, as also the riuers which haue their issue into the same,
being (as I say) alreadie described, I thinke it not amisse, as by the
waie to set downe what Leland saith thereof, to the end that his trauell
shall not altogither be lost in this behalfe; and for that it is short,
and hath one or two things worthie to be remembred conteined in the
same.
The Hulne (saith he) riseth of thrée seuerall heads, whereof the
greatest is not far from Driefield, now a small village sixtéene miles
from Hull. Certes it hath beene a goodlie towne, and therein was the
palace of Egbright king of the Northumbers, and place of sepulture of
Alfred the noble king sometime of that nation, who died there 727, the
ninetéene Cal. of Julie, the twentith of his reigne, and whose toombe or
monument dooth yet remaine (for ought that I doo know to the contrarie)
with an inscription vpon the same written in Latine letters. Néere vnto
this towne also is the Danefield, wherein great numbers of Danes were
slaine, and buried in those hils, which yet remaine there to be séene
ouer their bones and carcasses. The second head (saith he) is at
Estburne, and the third at Emmeswell, and méeting all togither not farre
from Drifield, the water there beginneth to be called Hulne, as I haue
said alreadie.
From hence also it goeth through Beuerleie medowes, and comming at the
last not farre from an arme led from the Hulne by mans hand (and able to
beare great vessels) almost to Beuerleie towne, which in old time either
hight or stood in Deirwald, vntill John of Beuerleie (whom Leland nameth
out of an old author to be the first doctor or teacher of diuinitie that
euer was in Oxford, and (as it should séeme also by an ancient monument
yet remaining) to be of an hostell where the vniuersitie college now
standeth; & therfore they write him, Somtime fellow of that house) began
to be of fame, of whom it is called Beuerleie (as some affirme) to this
daie. Indéed all the countrie betwéene the Deirwent & the Humber was
sometime called Deira, and the lower part Caua Deira in respect of the
higher soile, but now it is named the east Riding. But what is this to
my purpose? The Hulne therefore being come almost to Beuerleie towne, &
Cottingham.
méeting thereabout also with the Cottingham becke comming from Westwood
by the waie, it hasteth to Kingston vpon Hulne or Hull, and so into the
Humber without anie maner impeachment.
Fowlneie.
The Fowlneie riseth about Godmanham, from whence it goeth by Wighton,
Hareswell, Seton, Williams bridge, and soone after spreading it selfe,
Skelfléet.
one arme called Skelfleet goeth by Cane Cawseie to Brownefléet and so
into the Ouze. The other passeth by Sandholme, Gilberts dike, Scalbie
chappell, Blacketoft, and so into the aforesaid Ouze, leauing a verie
pretie Iland, which is a parcell (as I heare) of Walding fen more,
though otherwise obscure to vs that dwell here in the south.
Darwent.
The Darwent riseth in the hilles that lie west of Robin Whoodes baie, or
two miles aboue Aiton bridge, west from Scarborow as Leland saith: and
yer it hath run farre from the head, it receiueth two rilles in one
bottome from by west, which ioine withall about Longdale end. Thence
they go togither to Broxeie, and at Hacknesse take in another water
comming from about Silseie. Afterward it commeth to Aiton, then to
Kenford.
Haibridge, and there crosseth the Kenford that descendeth from
Roberteston. After this also it goeth on to Potersbrumton where it
taketh in one rill, as it dooth another beneath running from Shirburne,
and the third yet lower on the further banke, that descendeth from
Brumton. From these confluences it runneth to Fowlbridge, Axbridge,
Yeldingham bridge, & so to Cotehouse, receiuing by the waie manie
waters, & yéelding great plentie of delicate samons to such as fish vpon
the same. Leland reckoning vp the names of the seuerall brookes,
numbreth them confusedlie after his accustomed order. The Darwent (saith
Shirihutton.
he) receiueth diuerse streames, as the Shirihutton. The second is the
Crambecke.
Rie.
Ricoll.
Seuen.
Costeie.
Pickering.
Crambecke, descending from Hunderskell castell (so called Tanquam à
centum fontibus, or multitude of springs that rise about the same) and
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goeth to Rie, which comming out of the Blackemore, passeth by Riuers
abbeie, taking in the Ricoll on the left hand, then the Seuen, the
Costeie, and Pickering brooke.
The Seuin also (saith he) riseth in the side of Blackemoore, and thence
goeth by Sinnington foure miles from Pickering, and about a mile aboue a
certeine bridge ouer Rie goeth into the streame. The Costeie in like
sort springeth in the verie edge of Pickering towne, at a place called
Keld head, and goeth into the Rie two miles beneath Pickering, about
Kirbie minster. Finallie, Pickering water ariseth in Blackemoore, and
halfe a mile beneath Pickering falleth into Costeie, meeting by the way
Pocklington.
with the Pocklington becke, and an other small rill or two, of whose
names I haue no knowledge. Hitherto Leland. But in mine opinion, it had
béene far better to haue described them thus. Of those waters that fall
into the Darwent beneath Cotehouse, the first commeth from Swenton, the
second from Ebberston, the third from Ollerston, the fourth from
Thorneton & Pickering, and the fift on the other side that commeth
thither from Wintringham. For so should he haue dealt in better order,
and rid his hands of them with more expedition, referring the rest also
vnto their proper places.
But to procéed after mine owne maner. Being past Cotehouse, & yer the
Rie.
Darwent come at Wickham, it crosseth the Rie, which riseth of two heads,
and ioining west of Locton they run through Glansbie parke. Finallie,
Costeie.
receiuing the Costeie, it méeteth at the last with an other streame
increased by the fals of six waters and more yer it come into the
Darwent.
Seuen.
The most easterlie of these is called Seuen, and riseth (as is
aforesaid) in Blackemoore, from whence it goeth by Sinnington, Murton,
Don or Done.
Normanbie, Newsound, How, and so into the Rie. The second named Don hath
his originall likewise in Blackemoore, and descending by Rasmore, Keldon
Hodgebecke.
and Edston (where it receiueth the Hodgebecke, that commeth by Bernesdale,
Kirkedale, & Welburne) it goeth to Sawlton, and there taketh in first the
Ricoll.
Ricoll, that goeth by Careton, and whereof Ridall (as some think, but
Fesse.
falslie) doth séeme to take the name. Then Fesse, which riseth aboue
Bilisdale chappell, and méeteth with the Rie at the Shaking bridge, from
whence they go togither vnder the Rie bridge, to Riuis abbeie, and
thence (after it hath crossed a becke from the west) through a parke of
the earle of Rutlands to Newton, Muniton, and so to Sawton or Sawlton,
Holbecke.
as I doo find it written. Here also it taketh in the Holbecke brooke,
that commeth thither from by west by Gilling castell, and Stangraue,
from whence it goeth on to Brabie, next into the Seuen, then into the
Rie, and so into the Darwent, which from thence dooth run to Wickham.
Being past Wickham, it méeteth with a water that commeth thereinto from
Grinston to Setterington at southeast, and thence it goeth on to Malton
and Malton (where the prouerbe saith that a bushell of rie and an other
of malt is woorth but sixpence, carie awaie whilest you may, so as you
can kéepe them from running through the sackes) Sutton, Wellam, Furbie,
and Kirkeham, receiuing by the waie one rill on the one side and an
other on the other, whereof this commeth from Burdfall, that other from
Conisthorpe. From Kirkeham it goeth to Cramburne and Owsham bridge
(crossing by the waie an other brooke comming from saint Edwards gore,
by Faston) then to Aldbie, Buttercram (aliàs Butterham) bridge, Stamford
bridge, Kerbie bridge, Sutton, Ellerton, Aughton, Bubwith, Wresill,
Babthorpe, and so into the Ouze, wherewith I finish the description of
Darwent: sauing that I haue to let you vnderstand how Leland heard that
an arme ran some time from the head of Darwent also to Scarborow, till
such time as two hils betwixt which it ran, did shalder and so choke vp
his course.
Fosse.
The Fosse (a slow streame yet able to beare a good vessell) riseth in
Nemore Calaterio, that is, Galters wood or Cawood, among the wooddie
hilles, and in his descent from the higher ground, he leaueth Crake
castell, on his west side: thence he goeth by Marton abbeie, Marton,
Stillington, Farlington, Towthorpe, Erswijc, Huntington, & at Yorke into
Kile.
the Ouze. The Kile riseth flat north at Newborow, from whence it goeth
by Thorneton on the hill, Ruskell parke, Awne, Tollerton, and so into
Swale.
the Ouze about Newton vpon Ouze. The Swale is a right noble riuer, &
march in some places betwéene Richmondshire and Westmerland, it riseth
[Page 160]
not far from Pendragon castell in the hilles aboue Kirkedale, and from
this towne it goeth to Kelde chappell, Carret house, Crackepot,
Barneie.
Whiteside, and neere vnto Yalen taketh in the Barneie water, which
commeth from the north east. Thence it goeth by Harcaside to Reth (where
Arcleie.
it méeteth with the Arcleie) and so to Flemington, Grinton, Marrike
Holgate.
(taking in the Holgate that commeth from by south: and in the waie to
Mariske becke.
Thorpe, the Mariske becke, or peraduenture Applegarth water, as Leland
calleth it, that descendeth from the north) then to Thorpe, Applegarth,
Richmond, Easbie and Brunton.
Here by north it interteineth two or thrée waters in one chanell, called
Rauenswath.
Rauenswath water, whereof the two furthest doo ioine not farre from the
Dawltons, and so go by Rauenswath, Hartfoorth, Gilling, and at Skebie
méet with the third, comming from Richmond beaconward. By west also of
Rhe.
Brunton, the Swale méeteth with the Rhe, running from Resdale, and being
past Brunton, it goeth to Caterijc bridge beneath Brunton, then to
Ellerton, Kirkebie, Langton parua, Thirtoft, Anderbie stéeple: and
Bedall aliàs Leming.
before it come vnto Gatenbie, it meeteth with the Bedall brooke, aliàs
Lemings becke, that commeth west of Kellirbie, by Cunstable, Burton,
Langthorpe, Bedall, and Leming chappell. From Gattenbie likewise it
Wiske.
goeth to Mawbie, & at Brakenbirie receiueth the Wiske, which is a great
water, rising betwéene two parkes aboue Swanbie in one place, and
southeast of Mountgrace abbeie in another; and after the confluence
which is about Siddlebridge, goeth on betwéene the Rughtons to Appleton,
the Smetons, Birtbie, Hutton Coniers, Danbie, Wijc, Yafford, Warlabie,
and taking in there a rill from Brunton Aluerton, it procéedeth to
Otterington, Newlie, Kirbie Wiske, Newson, and Blackenburie, there
méeting (as I said) with the Swale, that runneth frō thence by
Skipton bridge, Catton, Topcliffe, and Raniton, and aboue Eldmire
méeteth with sundrie other rilles in one bottome, whereof the
Cawdebec.
Kebecke.
northwesterlie is called Cawdebec: the south easterlie Kebecke, which
ioine est of Thorneton moore, and so go to Thorneton in the stréet,
Kiluington, Thruske, Sowerbie, Grastwijc, and soone after crossing
another growing of the mixture of the Willow, and likewise of the
Cuckwolds becke.
Cuckewold beckes, which ioine aboue Bridforth, and running on till it
come almost at Dawlton, it maketh confluence with the Swale, and go
thence as one with all their samons by Thorneton bridge, Mitton vpon
Swale, and so into the Ouze.
Skell.
The Skell riseth out of the west two miles from Founteines abbeie, and
commeth (as Leland saith) with a faire course by the one side of Rippon,
as the Vre dooth on the other. And on the bankes hereof stood the famous
abbeie called Founteines or Adfontes, so much renowmed for the lustie
monks that sometimes dwelled in the same. It receiueth also the Lauer
Lauer.
water (which riseth thrée miles from Kirbie, and meeteth withall néere
vnto Rippon) and finallie falleth into the Vre, a quarter of a mile
beneath Rippon towne, & almost midwaie betwéene the North and Huicke
bridges.
Nidde.
The Nidde, which the booke of statutes called Nidor (anno 13. Edw. 1.)
and thereto noteth it to be inriched with store of samon, as are also
the Wheof and Aire, riseth among those hilles that lie by west northwest
of Gnarresborow, fiue miles aboue Pakeleie bridge, and going in short
processe of time by Westhouses, Lodgehouses, Woodhall, Newhouses,
Midlesmore, Raunsgill, Cowthouse, Gowthwall, Bureleie, Brimham,
Killingale.
Hampeswale, and soone after méeting with the Killingale becke, it goeth
after the confluence by Bilton parke, Gnaresbridge, Washford, Cathall,
Willesthorpe, Munketon, or Nonmocke, and so into the Ouze, fouretéene
miles beneath Gnaresborow, being increased by the waie with verie few or
no waters of anie countenance. Leland hauing said thus much of the
Nidde, addeth herevnto the names of two other waters, that is to saie,
Couer.
Burne.
the Couer and the Burne, which doo fall likewise into the Vre or Ouze.
But as he saith little of the same, so among all my pamphlets, I can
gather no more of them, than that the first riseth six miles aboue
Couerham by west, and falleth into the Vre, a little beneath Middleham
bridge, which is two miles beneath the towne of Couerham. As for the
Burne, it riseth at More hilles, and falleth into the said riuer a
little beneath Massham bridge. And so much of these two.
Wharfe aliàs Gwerfe.
The Wharffe or Gwerfe ariseth aboue Vghtershaw, from whence it runneth
[Page 161]
to Beggermons, Rosemill, Hubberham, Backden, Starbotton, Kettlewell,
Cunniston in Kettlewell, and here it meeteth with a rill comming from
Haltongill chappell, by Arnecliffe, and ioining withall northeast of
Kilneseie crag, it passeth ouer by the lower grounds to Girsington, and
receiuing a rill there also from Tresfeld parke, it proceedeth on to
Brunsall bridge. Furthermore at Appletréewijc, it méeteth with a rill
from by north, and thence goeth to Barden towre, Bolton, Beth and
Misleie hall, where it crosseth a rill comming from by west, thence to
Addingham, taking in there also another from by west, and so to Ikeleie,
and receiuing yer long another by north from Denton hall, it hasteth to
Weston Vauasour, Oteleie, and Letheleie, where it taketh in the Padside,
& the Washburne (both in one streame from Lindleie ward) and thence to
Casleie chappell, and there it crosseth one from by north, and another
yer long from by south, and so to Yardwood castell, Kerebie, Woodhall,
Collingham, Linton, Wetherbie, Thorpatch, Newton, Tadcaster, and when it
Cockebecke.
hath receiued the Cockebecke from southwest, that goeth by Barwie,
Aberfoorth, Leadhall, and Grimston, it runneth to Exton, Kirbie Wharfe,
Vskell, Rither, Nunapleton, & so into the Ouze beneath Cawood, a castell
belonging to the archbishop of Yorke, where he vseth oft to lie when he
refresheth himselfe with change of aire and shift of habitation, for the
auoiding of such infection as may otherwise ingender by his long abode
in one place, for want of due purgation and airing of his house.
Air.
The Air or Arre riseth out of a lake or tarne south of Darnbrooke,
wherein (as I heare) is none other fish but red trowt, and perch. Leland
saith it riseth néere vnto Orton in Crauen, wherfore the ods is but
little. It goeth therefore from thence to Mawlam, Hamlith, Kirbie,
Moldale, Calton hall, Areton, and so foorth till it come almost to
Otterburne.
Gargraue, there crossing the Otterburne water on the west, and the
Winterburne.
Winterburne on the north, which at Flasbie receiueth a rill from Helton,
as I heare. Being past Gargraue, our Air goeth on to Eshton, Elswood,
and so foorth on, first receiuing a brooke from southwest (whereof one
branch commeth by Marton, the other by Thorneton, which meete about
Broughton) then another from northeast, that runneth by Skipton castell.
After this confluence it hasteth by manifold windlesses, which caused
thirteene bridges at the last to be ouer the same within a little space,
to Newbiggin, Bradleie, and Kildwijc, by south east whereof it méeteth
Glike.
with one water from Mawsis, and Glusburne or Glukesburne, called Glike;
another likewise a little beneath from Seton, beside two rilles from by
north, after which confluence it runneth by Reddlesden, and ouer against
Lacocke.
Woorth.
this towne the Lacocke and the Woorth doo meet withall in one chanell,
Moreton.
as the Moreton water dooth on the north, although it be somewhat lower.
Thence it goeth to Rishfoorth hall, and so to Bungleie, where it taketh
a rill from Denholme parke to Shipeleie, and there crossing another from
Thorneton, Leuenthorpe, and Bradleie, it goeth to Caluerleie, to
Christall, and so to Léedes, where one water runneth thereinto by north
from Wettlewood, & two other from by south in one chanell, wherof the
first hath two armes, of which the one commeth from Pudseie chappell,
the other from Adwalton, their confluence being made aboue Farnesleie
hall. The other likewise hath two heads, whereof one is aboue Morleie,
the other commeth from Domingleie, and méeting with the first not far
southwest of Leedes, they fall both into the Air, and so run with the
Rodwell.
same to Swillington, and there taking in the Rodwell becke south of the
bridge, it proceedeth to Ollerton, Castleford, Brotherton & Ferribridge,
Went.
there receiuing the Went, a becke from Pontefract or Pomfret, which
riseth of diuerse heads, wherof one is among the cole pits. Thence to
Beall, Berkin, Kellington, middle Hodleseie, Templehirst, Gowldall,
Snath, Rawcliffe, Newland, Armie, and so into the Ouze with an
indifferent course. Of all the riuers in the north, Leland (in so manie
of his bookes as I haue séene) saith least of this. Mine annotations
also are verie slender in the particular waters wherbie it is increased:
wherfore I was compelled of necessitie to conclude euen thus with the
description of the same, and had so left it in déed, if I had not
receiued one other note more to ad vnto it (euen when the leafe was at
the presse) which saith as followeth in maner word for word.
[Page 162]
There is a noble water that falleth into Air, whose head (as I take it)
is about Stanford. From whence it goeth to Creston chappell, to
Lingfield, and there about receiuing one rill néere Elfrabright bridge,
Hebden.
and also the Hebden by northwest, it goeth to Brearleie hall, and so
taking in the third by north, it procéedeth on eastward by Sorsbie
bridge chappell (and there a rill from southwest) and so to Coppeleie
hall. Beneath this place I find also that it receiueth one rill from
Hallifax, which riseth from two heads, and two other from southwest, of
which one commeth by Baresland, and Staneland in one chanell, as I read.
So that after this confluence the aforesaid water goeth on toward
Cowford bridge, and as it taketh in two rilles aboue the same on the
north side, so beneath that bridge there falleth into it a pretie arme
increased by sundrie waters cōming from by south, as from Marsheden
chappell, from Holmesworth chappell, and Kirke Heton, each one growing
of sundrie heads; whereof I would saie more, if I had more intelligence
of their seuerall gates and passages.
But to procéed. From Cowford bridge it runneth to Munfeld, and receiuing
yer long one rill from Leuersage hall, and another from Burshall by
Dewesburie, it goeth on northeast of Thornehull, south of Horbirie
thornes, and thereabout crossing one rill from by south from Woller by
new Milner Dam, and soone after another from northwest, called Chald,
Chald.
rising in the Peke hils, whereon Wakefield standeth, and likewise the
third from southeast, and Waterton hall, it goeth by Warmefield,
Newland, Altoftes, and finallie into the Aire, west of Castelworth, as I
learne. What the name of this riuer should be as yet I heare not, and
therefore no maruell that I doo not set it downe, yet is it certeine
that it is called Chald, after his cōfluence with the Chald, and
finallie Chaldair or Chaldar after it hath ioined with the Air or Ar.
But what is this for his denominations from the head? It shall suffice
therefore thus farre to haue shewed the course thereof: and as for the
name I passe it ouer vntill another time.
Trent.
The Trent is one of the most excellent riuers in the land, not onelie
for store of samon, sturgeon, and sundrie other kinds of delicate fish
wherewith it dooth abound, but also for that it is increased with so
manie waters, as for that onelie cause it may be compared either with
the Ouze or Sauerne, I meane the second Ouze, whose course I haue
latelie described. It riseth of two heads which ioine beneath Norton in
the moore, and from thence goeth to Hilton abbeie, Bucknell church, and
Foulebrooke.
aboue Stoke receiueth in the Foulebrooke water, which commeth thither
from Tunstall, by Shelton, and finallie making a confluence they go to
Hanfleet, where they méet with another on the same side, that descendeth
from Newcastell vnder Line, which Leland taketh to be the verie Trent it
selfe, saieng: that it riseth in the hils aboue Newcastell, as may be
séene by his commentaries.
But to proceed. At Trentham, or not farre from thence, it crosseth a
riueret from northeast, whose name I know not, & thence going to Stone
Aston, Stoke Burston, the Sandons and Weston, a little aboue Shubburne &
Hawood, it receiueth the Sow, a great chanell increased with sundrie
waters, which I will here describe, leauing the Trent at Shubburne,
Sow.
till I come backe againe. The Sow descendeth from the hilles, aboue
Whitemoore chappell, and goeth by Charleton, and Stawne, and beneath
Shalford ioineth with another by northeast that commeth from bishops
Offeleie, Egleshall, Chesbie, Raunton. After this confluence also it
runneth by Bridgeford, Tillington, & Stafford, beneath which towne
Penke.
it crosseth the Penke becke, that riseth aboue Nigleton, & Berwood, &
aboue Penke bridge vniteth it selfe with another comming from Knightleie
ward, by Gnashall church, Eaton: and so going foorth as one, it is not
long yer they fall into Sow, after they haue passed Draiton, Dunstan,
Acton, and Banswich, where loosing their names, they with the Sow & the
Sow with them doo ioine with the Trent, at Shubburne, vpon the
southerlie banke.
From Shubburne the Trent goeth on to little Harwood (meeting by the waie
one rill at Ousleie bridge, and another south of Riddlesleie) thence by
Hawksberie, Mauestane, Ridware, and so toward Yoxhall; where I must
staie a while to consider of other waters, wherewith I méet in this
[Page 163]
voiage. Of these therefore the lesser commeth in by south from Farwall,
the other from by west, a faire streame, and increased with two brooks,
whereof the first riseth in Nedewood forrest, northeast of Haggersleie
Blith.
parke, whereinto falleth another west of Hamsteed Ridware, called Blith,
which riseth among the hilles in Whateleie moore, aboue Weston Conie,
and thence going to the same towne, it commeth to Druicote, aliàs
Dracote, Painsleie, Gratwitch, Grimleie, Aldmaston, Hamstéed, Ridware,
and finallie into the Trent, directlie west of Yoxhall, which runneth
also from thence, & leauing kings Bromleie in a parke (as I take it) on
the left hand, and the Blacke water comming from Southton and Lichfield
on the right, goeth streightwaie to Catton, where it méeteth with the
Tame.
Tame, whose course I describe as followeth.
It riseth in Staffordshire (as I remember) not farre from Petteshall,
and goeth foorth by Hamsted, toward Pirihall and Brimichams Aston,
taking in by the waie a rill on each side, whereof the first groweth
through a confluence of two waters, the one of them comming from Tipton,
the other from Aldburie, and so running as one by Wedburie till they
fall into the same. The latter commeth from Woolfhall, and ioineth with
it on the left hand. After this, and when it is past the aforesaid
places, it crosseth in like sort a rill from Smethike ward: thence it
Rhée.
goeth to Yarneton hall, beneath which it méeteth with the Rhée, and
thence through the parke, at Parke hall by Watercote, crossing finallie
Cole.
the Cole, whose head is in the forrest by Kingesnorton wood, and hath
this course, whereof I now giue notice. It riseth (as I said) in the
forrest by Kingesnorton wood, and going by Yareleie and Kingeshirst, it
méeteth betwéene that and the parke, with a water running betwéene
Helmedon and Sheldon.
Thence it passeth on to Coleshull, by east whereof it ioineth with a
Blith.
brooke, mounting southwest of Golihull called Blith, which going by
Henwood and Barston, crosseth on ech side of Temple Balshall, a rill,
whereof one commeth through the Quéenes parke or chase that lieth by
west of Kenelworth, & the other by Kenelworth castell it selfe, from
about Haselie parke. After which confluences it procéedeth in like maner
to Hampton in Arden, and the Packingtons, and so to Coleshull, where it
méeteth with the Cole, that going a little further, vniteth it selfe
Burne.
with the Burne on the one side (whereinto runneth a water comming from
Ansleie on the east) and soone after on the other dooth fall into the
Rhée.
Tame, that which some call the Rhée, a common name to all waters that
mooue and run from their head. For ῥεω in Gréeke is to flow and
run, although in truth it is proper to the sea onelie to flow. Leland
nameth the Brimicham water, whose head (as I heare) is aboue Norffield,
so that his course shuld be by Kingesnorton, Bremicham, Budston hall,
till it fall beneath Yarneton into the Tame it selfe, that runneth after
these confluences on by Lée, Kingesbirie parke, and going by east of
Draiton, Basset parke, to Falkesleie bridge, it méeteth with another
water called Burne, also comming from Hammerwich church, by Chesterford,
Shenton, Thickebrowne, and the north side of Draiton, Basset parke,
wherof I spake before. From hence our Tame runneth on to Tamworth, there
taking in the Anchor by east, whose description I had in this maner
deliuered vnto me.
It riseth aboue Burton, from whence it goeth by Nonneaton, Witherleie
and Atherstone. Yer long also it taketh in a water from northeast, which
commeth by Huglescote, Shapton, Cunston, Twicrosse (vniting it selfe
Anchor.
with a water from Bosworth) Ratcliffe, & so to the Anchor, which after
this confluence passeth by Whittendon, Crindon, Pollesworth, Armington,
Tamworth, & so into Tame, that hasteth to Hopwash, Comberford hall,
Telford, and soone after crossing a rill that riseth short of Swinfield
hall, and commeth by Festirike, it runneth not farre from Croxhall, and
so to Catton, thereabout receiuing his last increase not worthie to be
Mese.
omitted. This brooke is named Mese, and it riseth in the great parke
that lieth betwéene Worthington, and Smethike, from whence also it goeth
by Ashbie de la Souche, Packington, Mesham, and Stretton, and therabout
crossing a rill about Nethersale grange, from Ouersale by east, it
proceedeth by Chilcote, Clifton, Croxall, into the Thame, and both out
of hand into the maine riuer a mile aboue Repton. Leland writing of this
[Page 164]
riuer (as I earst noted) saith thereof in this wise. Into the Thame also
runneth the Bremicham brooke, which riseth foure or fiue miles about
Bremicham in the Blacke hils in Worcestershire, and goeth into the
aforesaid water a mile aboue Crudworth bridge. Certes (saith he) this
Bremicham is a towne mainteined chieflie by smiths, nailers, cutlers,
edgetoole forgers, lorimers or bitmakers, which haue their iron out of
Stafford and Warwijc shires, and coles also out of the first countie.
Hitherto Leland. Now to resume the Trent, which being growen to some
greatnesse, goeth on to Walton, Drakelow, and there crossing a water
that commeth by Newbold hall, it runneth to Stapenell, Winshull,
Wightmere, and Newton Souch, where it receiueth two chanels within a
short space, to be described apart.
Dou.
The first of these is called the Dou or Doue, it riseth about the thrée
shires méere, and is as it were limes betweene Stafford and Darbishires,
vntill it come at the Trent. Descending therefore from the head, it
goeth by Earlesbooth, Pilsburie grange, Hartington, Wolscot, Eaton,
Manifold.
Hunsington grange, and aboue Thorpe receiueth the Manifold water, so
called, bicause of the sundrie crinckling rills that it receiueth, and
turnagaines that it selfe sheweth before it come at the Dou. Rising
therefore not farre from Axe edge crosse (in the bottome thereby) it
runneth from thence to Longmore, Shéene, Warslow chappell, and Welton.
Hansleie.
Beneath Welton also it taketh in the Hansleie water, that commeth out of
Blackemoore hilles to Watersall, where it falleth into the ground: and
afterward mounting againe is receiued into the Manifold, north of
Throwleie (as I heare) which goeth from thence to Ilam, and aboue Thorpe
dooth cast it selfe into Dou. Hauing therefore met togither after this
maner, the Dou procéedeth on to Maplington, beneath which it crosseth
one water descending from Brassington by Fennie Bentleie, and another
somewhat lower that commeth from Hocston hall by Hognaston and Ashburne,
and then going to Matterfield, Narburie, Ellaston, Rawston Rowcester, it
Churne.
meeteth with the Churne, euen here to be described before I go anie
further. It riseth a good waie aboue Delacrasse abbie, and comming
Dunsmere.
thither by Hellesbie wood, it taketh in the Dunsmere, betwéene
Harracrasse and Leike.
Yendor.
Thence it goeth to the Walgrange, and a little beneath receiueth the
Yendor that commeth from aboue Harton, thence to Cheddleton, and hauing
Aula Canuti.
Ashenhirst.
crossed the Ashenhirst brooke aboue Cnutes hall, it runneth by Ypston,
Froghall, Below hill, Alton castell, Préestwood, and at Rowcester
falleth into the Dou, which yer long also receiueth a rill from Crowsden,
Teine.
and then going to Eton méeteth first with the Teine that commeth thither
from each side of Chedleie by Teinetowne, Bramhirst and Stranehill.
Vttoxeter or Vncester.
Secondlie with the Vncester or Vttoxeter water, and then going on to
Merchington, Sidberie, Cawlton, it crosseth a brooke from Sidmister
college, by Saperton. From this confluence in like sort it passeth
foorth to Tilberie castell, Marston, and at Edgerton méeteth with the
water that commeth from Yeldersleie by Longford (whereinto runneth
another that commeth from Hollington) and so to Hilton. These waters
being thus ioined, and manie ends brought into one, the Dou it selfe
falleth yer long likewise into the Trent, aboue Newton Souch. So that
the maine riuer being thus inlarged, goeth onwards with his course, and
betwéene Willington and Repton meeteth with two waters on sundrie sides,
whereof that which falleth in by Willington, riseth néere Dawberie Lies,
and runneth by Trusselie and Ashe: the other that entereth aboue Repton,
descendeth from Hartesburne, so that the Trent being past these, hasteth
to Twiford, Inglebie, Staunton, Weston, Newton, and Aston, yer long also
Darwent.
méeting with the Darwent; next of all to be dispatched. The Darwent, or
(to vse the verie British word) Dowr gwine (but in Latine Fluuius
Dereuantanus) riseth plaine west, néere vnto the edge of Darbishire,
aboue Blackwell a market towne, and from the head runneth to the New
chappell, within a few miles after it be risen. From hence moreouer it
goeth by Howden house, Darwent chappell, Yorkeshire bridge, and at
Neue.
Witham bridge dooth crosse the Neue or Nouius that commeth from Newstole
hill, by Netherburgh, Hope (crossing there one rill from Castelton,
another from Bradwell, and the third at Hathersage, from Stonie ridge
hill) and so goeth on to Padleie, Stockehall, receiuing a rill by the
[Page 165]
waie from by west, to Stonie Middleton, and Baslow, and hauing here
Burbroke.
taken in the Burbrooke on the one side, and another from Halsop on the
other, it goeth to Chatworth and to Rowseleie, where it is increased
with the Wie comming from by west, and also a rill on the east, a little
higher. But I will describe the Wie before I go anie further.
Wie.
The Wie riseth aboue Buxston well, and there is increased with the
Hawkeshow.
Wile.
Hawkeshow, and the Wile brooke, whose heads are also further distant
from the edge of Darbishire than that of Wie, and races somwhat longer,
though neither of them be worthie to be accompted long. For the Wile,
hauing two heads, the one of them is not farre aboue the place where
Wilebecke abbeie stood, the other is further off by west, about
Wilebecke towne: and finallie ioining in one they runne to Cuckneie
village, where receiuing a becke that commeth downe from by west, it
holdeth on two miles further, there taking in the second rill, and so
Rufford aliàs Manbecke.
resort to Rufford, or the Manbecke. Vnto this also doo other two rills
repaire, wherof the one goeth through and the other hard by Maunsfield,
of which two also this latter riseth west about foure miles, and runneth
foorth to Clipston (three miles lower) and so likewise to Rufford,
whereof I will speake hereafter. In the meane time to returne againe to
the Wie. From Buxston well, it runneth to Staddon, Cowdale, Cowlow, New
medow, Milhouses, Bankewell, and Haddon hall, beneath which it receiueth
Lathkell.
Bradford.
the Lath kell, that runneth by Ouerhaddon, and the Bradford, both in one
bottome after they be ioined in one at Alport. And this is the first
great water that our Darwent dooth méet withall. Being therefore past
the Rowsleies, the said Darwent goeth to Stancliffe, Darleie in the
peake, Wensleie, Smitterton hall, and at Matlocke taketh in a rill by
northeast, as it dooth another at Crumford that goeth by Boteshall.
From Mattocke, it procéedeth to Watston, or Watsond, Well bridge,
Amber.
Alderwash, and ioineth with another streame called Amber comming in from
by north by Amber bridge, whose description shall insue in this wise, as
I find it. The head of Amber is aboue Edleston hall, or (as Leland
saith) est of Chesterfield, and comming from thence by Middleton to
Ogston hall, it taketh withall another brooke, descending from Hardwijc
wood, by Alton and Streton. Thence it goeth to Higham, Brackenfield, and
aboue Dale bridge meeteth with a brooke running from Hucknalward to
Moreton.
Shireland parke side, there crossing the Moreton becke, and so to
Alferton, except I name it wrong. From Dale bridge it goeth by Wingfeld,
to Hedge, Fritchlin, and so into Darwent, taking the water withall that
descendeth from Swanswijc by Pentridge, as Leland doth remember. From
this confluence likewise it runneth to Belper, where it méeteth with a
rill comming from Morleie parke: thence to Makenie, and at Duffeld,
Eglesburne.
receiueth the Eglesburne, which ariseth about Wirkesworth or Oresworth,
but in the same parish out of a rocke, and commeth in by Turnedich. From
Duffeld, it passeth to Bradsall, Darleie abbeie, and at Darbie taketh in
a rill comming from Mirkaston by Weston vnderwood, Kidleston and Merton.
If a man should say that Darwent riuer giueth name to Darbie towne, he
should not well know how euerie one would take it, and peraduenture
therby he might happen to offend some. In the meane time I beleeue it,
let other iudge as pleaseth them, sith my coniecture can preiudice none.
To proceed therefore. From Darbie it runneth on by Aluaston, Ambaston,
the Welles, and so into Trent, which goeth from hence to Sawleie, and
Sora, or Surus.
north of Thrumpton taketh in the Sore, a faire streame, and not worthie
to be ouerpassed.
It riseth in Leicestershire aboue Wigton, and thence goeth to
Sharneford, Sapcote, and beneath Staunton taketh in a rill that commeth
by Dounton and Broughton Astleie. Thence to Marleborow, and before it
come to Eston, crosseth another on the same side (descending by Burton,
Glen, Winstow, Kilbie and Blabie) then to Leircester towne, Belgraue,
Burstall, Wanlip; and yer it come at Cussington or Cositon, crosseth the
Eie.
Eie, which riseth néere Occam aboue Bramston, going by Knawstow, Somerbie, Pickwell,
Leland calleth one of these rilles Croco.
Whitesonden; and beneath (a litle) receiueth a rill on the right hand,
from Coldnorton. Thence to Stapleford, & soone after crossing a brooke
from aboue Sproxton, Coson, Garthorpe and Sarbie, it runneth to
Wiuerbie, Brentingbie; and yer it come at Milton, meeteth with two other
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small rilles, from the right hand whereof one commeth from about
Caldwell by Thorpe Arnold, and Waltham in the Would; the other from
Skaleford ward, and from Melton goeth by Sisonbie, there méeting with
another from northeast ouer against Kirbie Hellars, after which time the
Warke, Vrke, or Wreke.
name of Eie is changed into Warke or Vrke, and so continueth vntill it
come at the Soure. From hence also it goeth to Asterbie, Radgale, Habie,
Trussington, Ratcliffe; and soone after crosseth sundrie waters not
verie farre in sunder, whereof one commeth from Oueston, by Twiford,
Ashbie, and Gadesbie; another from Losebie, by Baggraue, and Crawston,
and ioining with the first at Ouennihow, it is not long yer they fall
into the Warke. The second runneth from Engarsbie, by Barkeleie, and
Sison. But the third and greatest of the thrée, is a chanell increased
with thrée waters, whereof one commeth from Norton by Burton, Kilbie,
Foston and Blabie, the other from Dounton by Broughton and Astleie, and
meéting with the third from Sapcoth, and stonie Staunton, they run
togither by Narborow, and soone after ioining aboue Elston, with the
first of the thrée, they go as one by Elston to Leircester, Belgraue,
Wanlip, and aboue Cussington doo fall into the Warke, and soone after
into the Soure. The Soure in like sort going from thence to mount
Sorrell, & taking in another brooke southwest from Leircester forrest,
by Glenfield, Austie, Thurcaston and Rodelie, ioineth with the Soure,
which goeth from thence to mount Sorrell, and Quarendon (where it taketh
in a water comming from Charnewood forrest, and goeth by Bradegate and
Swithland) and then procéedeth to Cotes, Lughborow and Stanford, there
also taking in one rill out of Nottinghamshire by northeast; and soone
after another from southwest, comming from Braceden to Shepesheued,
Garrington, & Dighlie grange, and likewise the third from Worthington,
by Disworth, long Whitton, and Wathorne. Finallie, after these
confluences, it hasteth to Sutton, Kingston, and Ratcliffe, and so into
the Trent.
These things being thus brought togither, and we now resuming the
discourse of the same riuer, it dooth after his méeting with the Soure,
Erwash.
procéed withall to Barton, where it taketh in the Erwash, which riseth
about Kirbie, and thence goeth to Selston, Wansbie, Codnor castell,
Estwood, and crossing a water from Beuall, runneth to Coshall, Trowell
(and there taking in another rill comming from Henor by Shipleie) it
proceedeth on to Stapleford, long Eaton, and so into the Trent. This
being doone it goeth to Clifton, and yer it come at Wilford, it méeteth
with a brooke that passeth from Staunton by Bonnie and Rodington, and
thence to Notingham, where it crosseth the Line, which riseth aboue
Newsted; and passing by Papplewijc, Hucknall, Bafford, Radford and
Linton, next of all to Thorpe & Farmdon, where it brancheth and maketh
an Iland, and into the smaller of them goeth a brooke from Beuer
castell, which rising betweene east Well and Eaton in Leircester is
Dene.
called the Dene, and from thence runneth by Bramston to Knipton, &
beneath Knipton méeteth with a brooke that commeth by west of Croxston,
and thence holdeth on with his course, betwéene Willesthorpe and Beuer
castell aforesaid, and so to Bottesworth, Normanton, Killington,
Snite.
Shilton, there receiuing the Snite from by south (whose head is néere
Clauston, & course from thence by Hickling, Langer, Whalton, Orston, and
Flareborow) and yer long another comming from Bingham, and Sibthorpe.
Thence our Trent runneth to Coxam, Hawton, Newarke castell, and so to
Winthorpe, where the branches are reunited, and thence going on by Holme
to Cromwell (and soone after taking in a brooke comming from Bilsthorpe,
by Kersall, Cawnton, Norwell and Willowbie) to Carlton, and to Sutton,
there making a litle Ile, then to Grinton, where it toucheth a streame
on ech side, whereof one commeth from Morehouse by Weston & Gresthorpe,
another from Langthorpe, by Collingham, and Bosthorpe. From hence
likewise it passeth to Clifton, Newton, Kettlethorpe, Torkeseie, Knash,
Gainsborow, Waltrith, Stockwith; and leauing Axholme on the left hand,
it taketh withall Hogdike water out of the Ile, and so goeth foorth to
Wildsworth, Eastferrie, Frusworth, Burringham, Gummeis, Hixburgh,
Burton, Walcote, and at Ankerburie into the Humber, receiuing the swift
Doue by the waie, which for his noblenesse is not to be ouerpassed,
especiallie for that Anno 1536 Hen. 8, 28, it was (by Gods prouidence) a
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staie of great bloudshed like to haue fallen out betwéene the kings side
and the rebelles of the north, in a quarrell about religion. For the
A miracle.
night before the battle should haue béene stricken, and without anie
apparent cause (a little showre of raine excepted farre vnpossible vpon
such a sudden to haue made so great a water) the said riuer arose so
high, & ran with such vehemencie, that on the morow the armies could not
ioine to trie & fight it out: after which a pacification insued, and
those countries were left in quiet. Secondlie, the description hereof is
not to be ouerpassed, bicause of the fine grasse which groweth vpon the
banks thereof, which is so fine and batable, that there goeth a prouerbe
vpon the same; so oft as a man will commend his pasture, to say that
there is no better féed on Doue banke: that maketh it also the more
famous.
Doue.
The Doue therefore riseth in Yorkeshire among the Peke hilles, and
hauing receiued a water comming by Ingbirchworth (where the colour
thereof is verie blacke) it goeth to Pennistone, which is foure miles
from the head: then by Oxspring to Thurgoland, and soone after (ioining
by the waie with the Midhop water, that runneth by Midhop chappell, and
Hondshelfe) it méeteth with another comming from Bowsterston chappell.
Then goeth it by Waddesleie wood to Waddesleie bridge, and at Aluerton
receiueth the Bradfeld water. Then passeth it to Crokes, and so to
Sheffeld castell (by east whereof it receiueth a brooke from by south
that commeth through Sheffeld parke.) Thence it procéedeth to Westford
Cowleie.
bridge, Briksie bridge; and southwest of Timsleie receiueth the Cowleie
streame that runneth by Ecclefield. Next of all it goeth to Rotheram,
Rother.
where it méeteth with the Rother, a goodlie water, whose head is in
Darbieshire about Pilsleie, from whence it goeth vnder the name of
Doleie, till it come at Rotheram, by north Winfield church, Wingerworth,
and Foreland hall, twelue miles from Rotheram, to Chesterford, where it
Iber.
Brampton.
méeteth with the Iber, and Brampton water that commeth by Holme hall,
both in one chanell. Thence it runneth to Topton castell, and yer long
crossing one water comming from Dronefeld by Whittington on the one
side, and the second from aboue Birmington on the other, it goeth
through Stalie parke, and soone after méeteth with the Crawleie becke,
whereof I find this note.
Crawleie.
The Crawleie riseth not farre from Hardwijc, and going by Stanesbie and
Woodhouse, it receiueth aboue Netherthorpe, one water on the one side
comming from the Old parke, and another from Barlborow hill on the
other, that runneth not farre from Woodthorpe. After this confluence
likewise they run as one into the Rother, which hasteth from thence to
Eckington (there crossing a rill that runneth by Birleie hill) and so to
Gunno.
Kilmarsh, in the confines of Darbieshire, where it taketh in the Gunno
from by east. Thence to Boughton, vniting it selfe therabout with
Mesebrooke.
another by west from Gledles, called Mesebrooke, which diuideth
Yorkeshire from Darbieshire, and so runneth to Treton, Whiston, there
taking in a rill from Aston, and so to Rotheram, where it méeteth with
the Doue, and from whence our Doue (yéelding plentie of samon all the
waie as it passeth) hasteth to Aldwarke, Swaiton, Mexburge, there taking
in the Darne, which I will next describe, and staie with the Doue,
vntill I haue finished the same. It riseth at Combworth, and so commeth
about by Bretton hall, to Darton ward, where it crosseth a water that
runneth from Gonthwake hall, by Cawthorne vnited of two heads. From
hence it goeth to Burton grange, then to Drax, where it toucheth with a
water from southwest, & then goeth to Derfield and Goldthorpe: but yer
it come to Sprotborow, it vniteth it selfe with a faire riuer, increased
by diuerse waters, before it come at the Doue, & whereinto it falleth
(as I heare) northeast of Mexburgh. After this confluence likewise the
Doue goeth by Sprotborow, to Warnesworth, Doncaster, Wheatleie, (there
Hampall.
méeting with the Hampall créeke on the northeast side, which riseth east
of Kirbie) thence to Sandall, Kirke Sandall, Branwith ferrie, Stanford,
Fishlake, and so to Thuorne or Thurne, where it crosseth the Idle (whose
description followeth) and finallie into Trent, and so into the Humber.
But before I deale with the description of the Idle, I will adde
somewhat of the Rume, a faire water. For though the description thereof
be not so exactlie deliuered me as I looked for; yet such as it is I will
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set downe, conferring it with Lelands booke, and helping their defect so
much as to me is possible. It riseth by south of Maunsfield, fiue miles
from Rumford abbeie, and when the streame commeth neere the abbeie, it
casteth it selfe abroad and maketh a faire lake. After this it commeth
Budbie.
againe into a narrow channell, and so goeth on to Rumford village,
Gerberton.
carrieng the Budbie and the Gerberton waters withall. From thence, and
with a méetlie long course, it goeth to Bawtrie or Vautrie, a market
towne in Nottinghamshire, fiue miles from Doncaster, and so into the
Girt.
Trent. Beneath Rumford also commeth in the Girt, which goeth vnto
Southwell milles, and so into the Trent. Now as concerning our Idle.
Idle.
The Idle, which some call Brier streame, riseth at Sutton in Ashfield,
from whence it runneth to Maunsfield, Clipston & Allerton, where it
taketh in a water that riseth in the forrest, one mile north of
Bledworth, and runneth on by Rughford abbeie, till it come to Allerton.
Manbecke.
The forresters call this Manbecke, whereof Leland also speaketh, who
describeth it in this maner. Manbrooke riseth somewhere about Linthirst
wood, from whence it goeth to Blisthorpe, and so to Allerton. But to
procéed. The Idle hauing taken in the Manbecke, it runneth to
Bothomsall, by Boughton, & Perlethorpe: but yer it come there, it
Meding becke.
méeteth the Meding Maiden, or Midding brooke, which rising about
Teuersall, goeth to Pleasleie, Nettleworth, Sawcan, Warsop, Budleie,
Thursbie, Bothomsall, and so into the Idle. After this it proceedeth to
Houghton, west Draiton, but yer it touch at Graunston or Gaunston, it
Wilie.
taketh in the Wilie, which commeth from Clowne, to Creswell, Holbecke,
Woodhouse, Wilebecke, Normenton, Elsleie, Graunston, and so into the
Idle. Being thus increased, the Idle runneth on to Idleton, Ordsall,
Retford, Bollam, Tilneie, Matterseie abbeie, and so to Bawtrie, where it
méeteth another from the shire Okes, that riseth aboue Geitford, passeth
Blith.
on to Worksop (or Radfurth) Osberton, Bilbie, and Blith, there vniting
it selfe with thrée rilles in one bottome, whereof one commeth from
Waldingwell to Careleton, and so thorough a parke to Blith towne,
another from by west Furbecke thrée miles, and so to Blith: but the
third out of the White water néere to Blith, and there being vnited they
passe on to Scrobie, and so into the Idle.
From hence it runneth on to Missen, to Sadlers bridge, and next of all
Sandbecke.
to Santoft, where it méeteth with the Sandbecke, which rising not farre
from Sandbecke towne, passeth by Tickhill, Rosington bridge, Brampton,
Rilholme, Lindholme, and one mile south of Santoft into the Idle water,
which runneth from thence to Thorne, where it méeteth with the Doue, and
so with it to Crowleie. Finallie, inuironing the Ile of Axeholme, it
goeth vnto Garthorpe, Focorbie, & so into the Trent. Leland writing of
the Wilie, Wile, or Gwilie (as some write it) saith thus therof. The
Wile hath two heads, whereof one is not farre aboue the place where
Wilbecke abbeie stood; the other riseth further off by west aboue
Welbecke or Wilebecke towne: finallie ioining in one, they runne to
Cuckeneie village, where crossing a becke that commeth in from by west,
it holdeth on two miles further, there taking in the second rill, and so
resort to Rufford. To this riuer likewise (saith he) doo two other
waters repaire, whereof the one goeth hard by Maunsfield (rising foure
miles from thence by west) and then commeth thrée miles lower to
Rufford; the other (so far as I remember) goeth quite through the towne.
Hauing in this maner described the Ouze, and such riuers as fall into
the same: now it resteth that I procéed in my voiage toward the Thames,
according to my former order. Being therefore come againe into the maine
sea, I find no water of anie countenance or course (to my remembrance)
Ancolme.
till I come vnto the Ancolme a goodlie water, which riseth east of
[Page 169]
Mercate Rasing, and from thence goeth by middle Rasing. Then receiuing a
short rill from by south, it runneth on vnder two bridges, by the waie,
till it come to Wingall, northeast; where also it méeteth with another
brooke, from Vsselbie that commeth thither by Vresbie, goeth by Cadneie
(taking in the two rilles in one bottome, that descend from Howsham, and
north Leiseie) and thence to Newsted, Glanford, Wardeleie, Thorneham,
Applebie, Horslow, north Ferribie, and so into the sea.
Kilis.
Being past Ancolme, we go about the Nesse, and so to the fall of the
water which commeth from Kelebie, by Cotham abbeie, Nersham abbeie,
Thorneton, and leauing Coxhill by west, it falleth into the Ocean. The
next is the fall of another brooke comming from Fleting, all alongst by
Stallingburne. Then crossed we Grimsbie gullet, which issuing aboue
Erebie commeth to Lasebie, the two Cotes, and then into the sea. After
this we passed by another portlet, whose backwater descendeth from
Balesbie by Ashbie, Briggesleie, Wath, and Towneie, and finallie to the
next issue, before we come at Saltflete, which branching at the last,
leaueth a prettie Iland wherein Comsholme village standeth. This water
riseth short (as I heare) of Tathewell, from whence it goeth to Rathbie,
Hallington, Essington, Lowth, Kidirington, Auingham, and then branching
aboue north Somerton, one arme méeteth with the sea, by Grauethorpe, the
other by north of Somercote.
Saltflete.
Saltflete water hath but a short course: for rising among the
Cockeringtons, it commeth to the sea, at Saltflete hauen: howbeit the
next vnto it is of a longer race, for it riseth (as I take it) at
Cawthorpe paroch, and descendeth by Legburne, the Carletons, the west
middle and east Saltfletes, and so into the Ocean. The water that riseth
aboue Ormesbie and Dribie, goeth to Cawsbie, Swabie abbeie, Clathorpe,
Belew, Tattle, Witherne, Stane, and northeast of Thetilthorpe into the
maine sea.
Maplethorpe
Maplethorpe water riseth at Tharesthorpe, and going by Markeleie,
Folethorpe, and Truthorpe, it is not long yer it méet with the Germane
Ocean. Then come we to the issue that commeth from aboue the Hotoft, and
thence to Mumbie chappell, whither the water comming from Claxbie,
Willowbie, and Slouthbie (and whereinto another rill falleth) dooth
runne, as there to doo homage vnto their lord and souereigne. As for
Ingold mill créeke, I passe it ouer, and come straight to another water,
descending from Burge by Skegnes. From hence I go to the issue of a
faire brooke, which (as I heare) dooth rise at Tetford, and thence goeth
by Somerbie, Bagenderbie, Ashwardbie, Sawsthorpe, Partneie, Ashbie, the
Stepings, Thorpe croft, and so into the sea. As for Wainflete water, it
commeth from the east sea, and goeth betwéene S. Maries & Alhallowes by
Wainflete towne, and treading the path of his predecessors, emptieth his
chanell to the maintenance of the sea.
Now come I to the course of the Witham, a famous riuer, whereof goeth
the biword, frequented of old, and also of Ancolme, which I before
described:
Ancolme ele, and Witham pike,
Search all England and find not the like.
Lindis, Witham, Rhe.
Leland calleth it Lindis, diuerse the Rhe, and I haue read all these
names my selfe: and thereto that the Lincolneshire men were called in
old time Coritani, and their head citie Lindus, Lindon, or Linodunum, in
which region also Ptolomie placeth Rage, which some take to be
Notingham, except my memorie doo faile me. It riseth among the Wickhams,
in the edge of Lincolnshire, and (as I take it) in south-Wickham paroch,
from whence it goeth to Colsterworth, Easton, Kirkestoke Paunton, and
Paunton Houghton, and at Grantham taketh in a rill from by southwest, as
I heare. From Grantham it runneth to Man, Thorpe, Bolton, and Barneston,
where crossing a becke from northeast, it procéedeth further southwest
ward by Mereston, toward Faston (there also taking in a brooke that
riseth about Denton, and goeth by Sidbrooke) it hasteth to Dodington,
Clapale, Barmebie, Beckingham, Stapleford, Bassingham, Thursbie, and
beneath Amburgh crosseth a water that commeth from Stogilthorpe by
Somerton castell.
After this confluence also, our Witham goeth still foorth on his waie to
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the Hickhams, Boltham, Bracebridge, and Lincolne it selfe, for which the
Normans write Nicholl by transposition of the letters, or (as I may
better saie) corruption of the word. But yer it come there, it maketh
certeine pooles (whereof one is called Swan poole) and soone after
diuiding it selfe into armes, they run both thorough the lower part of
Lincolne, each of them hauing a bridge of stone ouer it, thereby to
passe through the principall stréet: and as the bigger arme is well able
to beare their fisher botes, so the lesser is not without his seuerall
Fosse dike.
commodities. At Lincolne also this noble riuer méeteth with the Fosse
dike, whereby in great floods vessels may come from the Trents side to
Lincolne. For betweene Torkseie, where it beginneth, and Lincolne citie,
where it endeth, are not aboue seuen miles, as Leland hath remembred.
Bishop Atwater began to clense this ditch, thinking to bring great
vessels from Trent to Lincolne in his time: but sith he died before it
was performed, there hath no man beene since so well minded as to
prosecute his purpose. The course moreouer of this our streame
following, from Lincolne to Boston is fiftie miles by water: but if you
mind to ferrie, you shall haue but 24. For there are foure common places
where men are ferried ouer; as Short ferrie, fiue miles from Lincolne,
Tatersall ferrie, eight miles from Short ferrie, Dogdike ferrie a mile,
Langreth ferrie fiue miles, and so manie finallie to Boston.
But to go forward with the course of Lindis (whereof the whole prouince
hath béene called Lindeseie) when it is past Lincolne, it goeth by
Shepewash, Wassingburg, Fiskerton, and soone after taketh in sundrie
riuers in one chanell, whereby his greatnesse is verie much increased.
From this confluence it goeth to Bardolfe, and there receíuing a rill
(descending from betweene Sotbie and Randbie, and going by Harton) it
slideth foorth by Tupham to Tatersall castell, taking vp there in like
sort thrée small rills by the waie, whereof I haue small notice as yet:
and therefore I referre them vnto a further consideration to be had of
them hereafter, if it shall please God that I may liue to haue the
filing of these rude pamphlets yet once againe, & somewhat more leasure
to peruse them than at this time is granted. Finallie, being past
Tatersall, and Dogdike ferrie, the Witham goeth toward Boston, & thence
into the sea. Thus haue I brieflie dispatched this noble riuer Witham.
But hauing another note deliuered me thereof from a fréend, I will yéeld
so farre vnto his gratification, that I will remember his trauell here,
and set downe also what he hath written thereof, although the riuer be
sufficientlie described alredie.
Witham.
Into Witham therefore from by north, and seuen miles beneath Lincolne,
Hake.
there falleth a faire water, the head whereof is at Hakethorne, from
whence it goeth by Hanworth, Snarford, Resbie, Stainton, and at
Bullington méeteth with a water on ech side, whereof one commeth from
Haiton and Turrington, the other from Sudbrooke, and likewise beneath
Birlings with the third comming from Barkeworth by Stansted, and ioining
all in one, soone after it is not long yer it fall into the chanell of
Witham, and so are neuer more heard of. There is also a brooke by
southwest, that commeth from Kirbie to Cateleie, Billingams, and the
Bane.
Ferrie. At Tatersall it méeteth with the Bane, which riseth aboue Burgh,
and néere vnto Ludford goeth downe to Dunnington, Stanigod, Hemmingsbie,
Bamburgh, Fillington, Horne castell, (where it crosseth a rill from
Belchworth) Thornton, Marton, Halton, Kirkebie, Comsbie, Tatersall, and
so to Dogdike ferrie.
Aboue Boston likewise it taketh in a water comming from Lusebie by
Bolingbrooke, Stickeford, Stickneie, Sibbeseie and Hildrike. And to
Boston towne it selfe doo finallie come sundrie brookes in one chanell,
called Hammond becke, which rising at Donesbie, runneth on to
Wrightbold, where it casteth one arme into Holiwell water. Thence it
hasteth toward Dunnington, receiuing four brookes by the waie, whereof
the first commeth from Milthorpe, the second from Fokingham, called
Bollingborow.
Sempringham.
Bollingborow, or (after some, I wote not vpon what occasion) Sempringham
water, the third from Bridge end, the fourth from Sempringham, and
afterwards the maine streame is found to run by Kirton holme, and so
into the Witham. Into the Wiland likewise falleth the Holiwell, which
riseth of a spring that runneth toward the east from Haliwell to Onebie,
Esonden, Gretford, and so to Catbridge, where it receiueth another
rising at Witham and west of Manthorpe, and the second comming from Laund,
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and so run from thence togither to Willesthorpe and Catbridge, and then
into the Haliwell, which after these confluences goeth to Tetford and
Eastcote, where it meeteth with a draine, comming from Bourne, and so
through the fennes to Pinchbecke, Surfleet, and Fosdike, where it
méeteth with the Welland, in the mouth of the Wash, as I haue noted vnto
you.
Hauing thus set foorth the riuers that fall into the Witham, now come we
Wiland.
to the Wiland or Welland, wherevnto we repaire after we be past Boston,
as drawing by litle and litle toward the Girwies, which inhabit in the
fennes (for Gir in the old Saxon speach dooth signifie déepe fennes and
marishes) and these beginning at Peterborow eastward, extend themselues
by the space of thrée score miles & more, as Hugh of Peterborow writeth.
This streame riseth about Sibbertoft, and running betwéene Bosworth and
Howthorpe, it goeth to Féedingworth, Merson, Bubberham, Trussell,
Braie.
Herborow (receiuing there the Braie, which commeth from Braiebrooke
castell) to Bowton, Weston, Wiland, Ashleie, Medburne, Rokingham, and
Cawcot, where a riueret called little Eie méeteth withall, comming from
east Norton by Alexstone, Stocke, Fasten, and Drie stocke. From Cawcot
it goeth to Gritto, Harringworth, Seton, Wauerlie, Duddington, Collie
Warke.
Weston, Eston, and there ioineth with the third called Warke, not far
from Ketton, which commeth from Lie by Preston, Wing, Lindon, Luffenham,
Brooke water.
&c. Thence it goeth on by Tinwell, to Stanford (crossing the Brooke
Whitnell.
water, and Whitnelbecke, both in one bottome) and from Stanford by
Talington, Mareie, to Mercate Deeping, Crowland (where it almost meeteth
with the Auon) then to Spalding, Whapland, and so into the sea.
Leland writing of this Wiland, addeth these words which I will not omit,
sith in mine opinion they are worthie to be noted, for better
consideration to be had in the said water and his course. The Wiland
(saith he) going by Crowland, at Newdrene diuideth it selfe into two
Newdrene.
branches, of which one goeth vp to Spalding called Newdrene, and so into
South.
the sea at Fossedike Stow: the other named the South into Wisbech. This
latter also parteth it selfe two miles from Crowland, & sendeth a rill
Writhlake.
called Writhlake by Thorneie, where it méeteth with an arme of the Nene,
that commeth from Peterborow, and holdeth course with the broad streame,
till it be come to Murho, six miles from Wisbech, where it falleth into
the South.
Shéepees eie.
Out of the South in like sort falleth another arme called Sheepes eie
and at Hopelode (which is fouretéene miles from Lin) did fall into the
sea. But now the course of that streame is ceased, wherevpon the
inhabitants susteine manie grieuous flouds, bicause the mouth is
stanched, by which it had accesse before into the sea. Hitherto Leland.
Of the course of this riuer also from Stanford, I note this furthermore
out of another writing in my time. Being past Stanton (saith he) it
goeth by Burghleie, Vffington, Tallington, Mareie, Déeping, east
Deeping, and comming to Waldram hall, it brancheth into two armes,
whereof that which goeth to Singlesole, receiueth the Nene out of
Cambridgeshire, and then going by Dowesdale, Trekenhole, and winding at
last to Wisbech, it goeth by Liuerington, saint Maries, and so into the
sea. The other arme hasteth to Crowland, Clowthouse, Bretherhouse,
Pikale, Cowbecke and Spalding. Here also it receiueth the Baston dreane,
Longtoft dreane, Déeping dreane, and thence goeth by Wickham into the
sea, taking withall on the right hand sundrie other dreanes. And thus
farre he.
Next of all, when we are past these, we come to another fall of water
into the Wash, which descendeth directlie from Whaplade dreane to
Whaplade towne in Holland: but bicause it is a water of small
importance, I passe from thence, as hasting to the Nene, of both the
more noble riuer: and about the middest thereof in place is a certeine
swallow, so déepe and so cold in the middest of summer, that no man dare
diue to the bottome thereof for coldnesse, and yet for all that in
winter neuer found to haue béene touched with frost, much lesse to be
Auon.
couered with ise. The next therefore to be described is the Auon,
Nene.
otherwise called Nene, which the said author describeth after this
maner. The Nene beginneth foure miles aboue Northampton in Nene méere,
where it riseth out of two heads, which ioine about Northampton. Of this
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riuer the citie and countrie beareth the name, although we now pronounce
Hampton for Auondune, which errour is committed also in south Auondune,
as we may easilie see. In another place Leland describeth the said riuer
after this maner. The Auon riseth in Nene méere field, and going by
Oundale and Peterborow, it diuideth it selfe into thrée armes, whereof
one goeth to Horneie, another to Wisbech, the third to Ramseie: and
afterward being vnited againe, they fall into the sea not verie farre
from Lin. Finallie, the descent of these waters leaue here a great sort
of Ilands, wherof Elie, Crowland, and Mersland, are the chiefe. Hitherto
Leland.
Howbeit, because neither of these descriptions touch the course of this
riuer at the full, I will set downe the third, which shall supplie
whatsoeuer the other doo want. The Auon therefore arising in Nenemere
field, is increased with manie rilles, before it come at Northampton, &
one aboue Kings thorpe, from whence it goeth to Dallington, and so to
Northhampton, where it receiueth the Wedon. And here I will staie, till
Vedunus.
I haue described this riuer. The Wedon therefore riseth at Faulesse in
master Knightlies pooles, and in Badbie plashes also are certeine
springs that resort vnto this streame. Faulesse pooles are a mile from
Chareton, where the head of Chare riuer is, that runneth to Banberie.
There is but an hill called Alberie hill betwéene the heads of these two
riuers.
From the said hill therefore the Wedon directeth his course to Badbie,
Newenham, Euerton, Wedon, betwixt which and Floretowne, it receiueth the
Florus.
Florus (a pretie water rising of foure heads, whereof the one is at
Dauentrie, another at Watford, the third at long Bucke, the fourth aboue
Whilton) and then passeth on to Heiford, Kislingberie, Vpton, and so to
Northhampton, where it falleth into the Auon, receiuing finallie by the
Bugius.
waie the Bugbrooke water at Heiford, Patshall water néere Kislingberie,
and finallie Preston water beneath Vpton, which running from Preston by
Wootton, méeteth at the last with Milton rill, and so fall into Auon.
Now to resume the tractation of our Auon. From Northhampton therefore it
runneth by Houghton, great Billing, Whitstone, Dodington, and
Willingborow, where we must staie a while: for betweene Willingborow and
Kilis.
Higham ferries, it receiueth a pretie water comming from about Kilmarsh,
which going by Ardingworth, Daisborow, Rusheton, Newton, Gaddington,
Boughton, Warketon, Kettering, Berton, and Burton, méeteth there with
Rother.
Rothwell water, which runneth west of Kettering to Hisham, the greater
Haridon, and then into the Auon.
Being therfore past Burton, our maine streame goeth to Higham Ferries,
Artleborow, Ringsted, Woodford, and (méeting thereby with Cranford rill)
Ocleie.
to Thraxton, north whereof it ioineth also with the Ocleie water, that
commeth from Sudborow and Lowicke, to old Vmkles, Waden ho, Pilketon,
Toke (where it taketh in the Liueden becke) and so to Oundell,
Cotterstocke, Tansoner, and betweene Tothering and Warmington receiueth
Corbie.
the Corbie water, which rising at Corbie, goeth by Weldon, Denethap,
Bulwich, Bletherwijc, Fineshed, Axthorpe, Newton, Tothering, and so into
the Auon. After this, the said Auon goeth to Elton, Massittgton,
Yerwell, Sutton, Castor, Allerton, and so to Peterborow, where it
diuideth it selfe into sundrie armes, and those into seuerall branches
and draines, among the fennes and medowes, not possible almost to be
numbred, before it méet with the sea on the one side of the countrie,
and fall into the Ouze on the other.
Isis 3.
The Ouze, which Leland calleth the third Isis, falleth into the sea
betwéene Mersland & Downeham. The chiefe head of this riuer ariseth
néere to Stanes, from whence it commeth to Brackleie (sometime a noble
towne in Northampton shire, but now scarselie a good village) and there
taking in on the left hand one water comming from the parke betwéene
Sisa.
Sisam and Astwell (which runneth by Whitfield and Tinweston) and another
Imelus.
on the right from Imleie, it goeth on by Westbirie, Fulwell, water
Stretford, Buckingham, and Berton, beneath which towne the Erin falleth
into it, whereof I find this short description to be inserted here. The
Erin.
Erin riseth not farre from Hardwijc in Northamptonshire, from hence it
goeth by Heth, Erinford, Godderington, Twiford, Steeple Cladon, & yer it
Garan.
come at Padbirie, méeteth with the Garan brooke descending from
Garanburge, and so they go togither by Padbirie, till they fall into the
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Ouze, which carieth them after the confluence to Thorneton bridge (where
they crosse another fall of water comming from Whitlewood forrest by
Luffeld, Lecamsted and Foscot) and so to Beachampton, Culuerton, Stonie
Stratford, and Woluerton.
Verus.
Here the Ouze méeteth with a water (called, as Leland coniectureth, the
Vere or Were) on the left hand, as you go downewards, that commeth
betwéene Wedon and Wexenham in Northamptonshire, and goeth by Towcester,
and Alderton, and not farre from Woluerton and Hauersham into the
foresaid Ouze, which goeth also from hence to Newportpaganell, where in
like sort I must staie a while till I haue described another water,
Cle aliàs Claius.
named the Clée, by whose issue the said streame is not a little
increased. This riuer riseth in the verie confines betwéene Buckingham
and Bedfordshires, not farre from Whippesnade, and going on toward the
northwest, by Eaton and Laiton, it commeth to Linchlade, where it
entreth whollie into Buckinghamshire, and so goeth on by Hammond,
Brickle, Fennie Stratford, Simpson, Walton and Middleton, beneath which
Saw.
it receiueth the Saw from aboue Halcot, and so goeth on till it meet
with the Ouze néere vnto Newport, as I haue said. Being vnited
therefore, we set forward from the said towne, and follow this noble
riuer, to Lathbirie, Thuringham, Filgrane, Lawndon, Newington, Bradfield
on the one side, and Turueie on the other, till it come at length to
Bedford after manie windlesses, and then méeteth with another streame,
which is increased with so manie waters, that I was inforced to make an
imagined staie here also, and view their seuerall courses, supposing my
selfe to looke downe from the highest steeple in Bedford, whence (as
best meane to view anie countrie wheresoeuer) I note the same as
followeth.
Certes on the east side, where I began this speculation, I saw one that
came from Potton, and met withall néere Becliswade: another that grew of
two waters, wherof one descended from Baldocke, the other from Hitchin,
which ioined beneth Arleseie, and thence went to Langford and Edworth.
These rise not far from Michelborow & one of them in Higham
parke.
The third which I beheld had in like sort two heads, wherof one is not
farre from Wood end, the other from Wooburne (or Howburne), and ioining
about Flitwijc, they go to Flitton (where they receiue Antill brooke)
and so by Chiphill, and Chicksand, they come to Shafford, from whence
taking the aforsaid Langford water with them, they go foorth by
Becliswade, Sandie, Blumham, and neere vnto Themisford are vnited with
the Ouze. And now to our purpose againe.
Verus or the Were.
After this the Ouze goeth by Berkeford, to Winteringham (méeting there
with the Wareslie becke) and so runneth to S. Neotes (or saint Nedes, in
Stoueus.
old time Goluesburg, as Capgraue saith In vita Neoti) to Paxston,
Offordes, and so to Godmanchester, in old time called Gumicester, which
(as it should séeme) hath béene a towne of farre greater countenance
than at this present it is; for out of the ruines thereof much Romane
coine is found, and sometimes with the image of C. Antius which hath
long haire, as the Romans had before they receiued barbars into their
citie, and therevnto the bones of diuerse men of farre greater stature
than is credible to be spoken of in these daies. But what stand I vpon
these things? From hence therfore our water goeth on to Huntingdon,
Wilton, saint Iues, Holiwell, and Erith, receiueth in the meane time the
Stoueus.
Helenus.
Elmerus.
Stow (néere vnto little Paxton) and likewise the Ellen, and the Emmer,
in one chanell a little by west of Huntingdon.
Finallie, the maine streame spreading abroad into the Fennes, I cannot
tell into how manie branches, neither how manie Ilets are inforced by
the same; although of Iles, Marshland, Ancarig or Ancarie be the chiefe,
and of which this later is called Crowland (as Crowland also hight
thornie A cruda terra, or store of bushes saith Hugo le Blanc) sometime
growing in the same, and Ancarijc because sundrie Ancres haue liued &
borne great swaie therein. But howsoeuer this case standeth, this is
certeine, that after it hath thus delited it selfe with ranging a while
about the pleasant bottoms & lower grounds, it méeteth with the Granta,
from whence it goeth with a swift course vnto Downeham. Betwéene it also
and the Auon, are sundrie large meeres or plashes, by southwest of
Peterborow full of powts and carpes, whereof Whittleseie méere, and
Riuelus.
Ramseie méere (whereinto the Riuall falleth), that commeth from aboue
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Broughton, Wiston, and great Riuelleie) are said to be greatest. Of all
Granta.
the riuers that run into this streame, that called Granta (whereof the
whole countie in old time was called Grantabrycshire, as appéereth by
the register of Henrie prior of Canturburie) is the most noble and
excellent, which I will describe euen in this place, notwithstanding
that I had earst appointed it vnto my second booke. But for somuch as a
description of Ouze and Granta were deliuered me togither, I will for
his sake that gaue them me, not separate them now in sunder.
The verie furthest head and originall of this riuer is in Henham, a
large parke belonging to the earle of Sussex, wherein (as the townesmen
saie) are foure springs that run foure sundrie waies into the maine sea.
Leland sought not the course of this water aboue Newport pond, and
therefore in his commentaries vpon the song of the swan, he writeth
thereof after this maner insuing. Although doctor Iohn Caius the learned
physician, and some other are of the opinion, that this riuer comming
from Newport, is properlie to be called the Rhée: but I may not so
easilie dissent from Leland, whose iudgement in my mind is by a great
deale the more likelie. Harken therefore what he saith.
The head of Grantha or Granta, is in the pond at Newport, a towne of the
east Saxons, which going in a bottome beside the same, receiueth a
pretie rill, which in the middest thereof dooth driue a mill, and
descendeth from Wickin Bonhant, that standeth not farre from thence.
Being past Newport, it goeth alongst in the lower ground, vntill it come
to Broke Walden, west of Chipping Walden (now Saffron Walden) hard by
the lord Awdleis place, where the right honorable Thomas Howard with his
houshold doo soiourne, and sometime stood an abbeie of Benedictine
moonks, before their generall suppression. From Awdleie end it goeth to
Littleburie, the lesse and greater Chesterfords, Yealdune, Hincstone,
Babren.
Seoston or Sawson, and néere vnto Shaleford receiueth the Babren that
commeth by Linton, Abbington, Babrenham, and Stapleford: and so going
forward it commeth at the last to Trompington, which is a mile from
Cambridge. But yer it come altogither to Trompington, it méeteth with
Rhée.
the Barrington water, as Leland calleth it, but some other the Rhee (a
common name to all waters in the Saxon speech) whereof I find this
description, to be touched by the waie. The Rhée riseth short of Ashwell
in Hertfordshire, and passing under the bridge betweene Gilden Mordon
and Downton, and leauing Tadlow on the west side (as I remember) it
goeth toward Crawden, Malton, Barrington, Haselingfield, and so into
Granta, taking sundrie rills with him from south and southwest, as
Wendie water southwest of Crawden, Whaddon brooke southwest of Orwell,
Mildred becke southwest of Malton, and finallie the Orme which commeth
out of Armington or Ormendum well, and goeth by Fulmere and Foxton, and
falleth into the same betweene Barrington and Harleston, or Harston; as
they call it.
Now to procéed with our Granta. From Trompington on the one side, and
Grantcester, on the other, it hasteth to Cambridge ward, taking the
Burne with it by the waie, which descendeth from a castell of the same
denomination, wherein the Picotes and Peuerels sometime did inhabit.
Thence it goeth by sundrie colleges in Cambridge, as the queenes
college, the kings college, Clare hall, Trinitie college, S. Johns, &c:
vnto the high bridge of Cambridge, and betwéene the towne and the
Sturus.
castell to Chesterton, and receiuing by and by the Stoure, or Sture (at
whose bridge the most famous mart in England is yearlie holden and kept)
from Chesterton it goeth to Ditton, Milton, and yer long méeting with
two rilles (from Bottesham and Wilberham, in one bottome) it runneth to
Bulbecke.
Horningseie, & Water Bech: and finallie here ioining with the Bulbecke
water, it goeth by Dennie, and so forth into the Ouze, fiftéene miles
from Cambridge, as Leland hath set downe. And thus much of the third
Isis or Ouze, out of the aforesaid author: wherevnto I haue not onelie
added somewhat of mine owne experience, but also of other mens notes,
whose diligent obseruation of the course of this riuer hath not a little
helped me in the description of the same. Now it resteth that we come
neerer to the coast of Northfolke, and set foorth such waters as we
passe by vpon the same, wherein I will deale so preciselie as I may: and
so farre will I trauell therein, as I hope shall content euen the curious
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reader: or if anie fault be made, it shall not be so great, but that
after some trauell in the finding, it shall with ease be corrected.
The first riuer that therefore we come vnto, after we be past the
confluence of Granta, and the Ouze, and within the iurisdiction of
Burne.
Northfolke, is called the Burne. This streame riseth not verie farre
from Burne Bradfield, aboue the greater Wheltham, and from thence it
goeth on to Nawnton, Burie, Farneham Martin, Farneham Alhallowes,
Farneham Genouefa, Hengraue, Flemton, Lackeford, Icklingham, and to
Dale.
Milden hall: a little beneath which, it meeteth with the Dale water,
that springeth not farre from Catilege, and going by Asheleie, Moulton
(a benefice as the report goeth not verie well prouided for) to Kenford,
Kenet, Bradingham, Frekenham, it falleth at the last not farre from
Iselham into the Burne, from whence they go togither as one into the
Ouze. With the Burne also there ioineth a water comming from about
Lidgate, a little beneath Iselham, and not verie far from Mildenhall.
Dunus.
The Dune head, and rising of Wauenheie, are not much in sunder: for as
it is supposed, they are both not farre distant from the bridge betwéene
Lophām and Ford, wherby the one runneth east and the other west, as I
haue béene informed. The Dune goeth first of all by Feltham, then to
Hopton, & to Kinets hall, where it meeteth with a water cōming out of
a lake short of Banham (going, by Quiddenham, Herling, Gasthorpe) and so
on, both in one chanell, they run to Ewston. Here they méet in like
sort, with another descending from two heads, wherof the one is néere
vnto Pakenham, the other to Tauestocke, as I heare. Certes these heads
ioine aboue Ilesworth, not farre from Stow Langtoft, from whence they go
to Yxworth, Thorpe, Berdwell, Hunnington, Fakenham, and so into the Dune
at Ewston; as I said. From hence also they hasten to Downeham, which of
this riuer dooth séeme to borow his name. South Rée rill I passe ouer as
not worthie the description, because it is so small.
Bradunus fortè.
Next vnto this riuer on the south side is the Braden, or Bradunus, which
riseth at Bradenham, and goeth by Necton, north Peckenham, south
Peckenham, Kirsingham, Bedneie, Langford, Igbor, Munford, North Old,
Stockebridge, Ferdham, Helgie, and so into the Ouze. The néerest vnto
Linus.
this is another which riseth about Lukeham, and from thence commeth to
Lexham, Massingham, Newton, the castell Acre, Acres, Nerboe, Pentneie,
Wrongeie, Rounghton (which at one time might haue béene my liuing if I
would haue giuen sir Thomas Rugband money inough, but now it belongeth
to Gundeuill and Caius college in Cambridge) Westchurch, and so to
Linne. As so dooth also another by north of this, which commeth from the
Congunus.
east hilles by Congenham, Grimston, Bawseie, Gaiwood, whereof let this
suffice. And now giue eare to the rest sith I am past the Ouze. Being
Rising.
past the mouth or fall of the Ouze, we méet next of all with the Rising
chase water, which Ptolomie (as some thinke) doth call Metaris, and
Ingell.
descendeth from two heads, and also the Ingell that commeth from about
Snetsham. From hence we go by the point of saint Edmund, and so hold on
our course till we come vnto the Burne, which falleth into the sea by
south from Waterden, and going betwéene the Crakes to Burnham Thorpe,
and Burnham Norton, it striketh at the last into the sea; east of
Burnham Norton a mile at the least, except my coniecture doo faile me.
Glouius.
The Glow or Glowie riseth not far from Baconsthorpe, in the hundred of
Tunsted; & going by and by into Holt hundred, it passeth by Hunworth,
Thornage, Glawnsford, Blackneie, Clare, and so into the sea, receiuing
there at hand also a rill by east, which descendeth from the hilles
lieng betwéene Killing towne and Waiburne.
Wantsume.
The Wantsume riseth in Northfolke at Galesend in Holt hundred, from
whence it goeth to Watersend, Townton, Skelthorpe, Farneham, Pensthorpe,
Rieburg, Ellingham, and Billingsford. And here it receiueth two waters
in one bottome, of which the first goeth by Stanfield and Beteleie, the
other by Wandling and Gressonhall, and so run on ech his owne waie, till
they méet at Houndlington, southwest of Billingsford with the Wantsume.
From hence they go all togither to Below, Ieng, Weston, and Moreton; but
Yocus.
yer it come to Moreton, it méeteth with the Yowke, which (issuing about
Yexham) goeth by Matteshall and Barrow. After this the said Wantsume
goeth on by Ringland, and so to Norwich the pontificall sée of the bishop,
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to whome that iurisdiction apperteineth, which seemeth by this memoriall
yet remaining in the corrupted name of the water, to be called in old
time Venta, or (as Leland addeth) Venta Icenorum. But to procéed.
Beneath Norwich also it receiueth two waters in one chanell, which I
will seuerallie describe, according to their courses, noting their
confluence to be at Bixleie, within two miles of Norwich, except my
annotation deceiue me. The first of these hath two heads wherof one
mounteth vp southwest of Whinborow, goeth by Gerneston, and is the verie
Hierus.
Gerus.
Hiere or Yare that drowneth the name of Wantsume, so soone as he meeteth
withall. The other head riseth at Wood in Mitford hundred, and after
confluence with the Hiere at Caston, going by Brandon, Bixton, Berford,
Erleham, Cringlefield (not farre from Bixleie as I said) doth méet with
his companion, which is the second to be described as followeth. It hath
two heads also that méet northwest of Therstane; and hereof the one
commeth from Findon hall, by Wrenningham from about Wotton, by Hemnall,
Fretton, Stretton, and Tasborow, till they ioine at Therston, as I gaue
notice aforehand. From Therston therefore they go togither in one to
Newton, Shotesham, Dunston, Castor, Arminghale, Bixleie, Lakenham, and
Trowse, and then fall into the Wantsume beneath Norwich, which hereafter
is named Hiere. The Hiere, Yare, or Gare therefore proceeding in his
voiage, as it were to salute his grandame the Ocean, goeth from thence
by Paswijc, Surlingham, Claxton, and Yardleie; and here it meeteth
againe with another riueret descending from about Shotesham to
Therstane, Shedgraue, Hockingham, and so into Gare or Yare, whereof
Yardleie the towne receiueth denomination. After this it goeth to
Wauen.
Frethorpe, and aboue Burgh castell meeteth with the Waueneie, and so
into the sea.
Bure.
Into this riuer also falleth the Bure, which rising at a towne of the
same name, passeth by Milton, Buresdune, Corpesteie, Marington,
Blekeling, Bure, Alesham, Brampton, Buxton, Horsted, Werxham bridge,
Thurinus.
Horning, Raneworth; and beneath Bastewijc receiueth the Thurine which
riseth aboue Rolesbie; then to Obie, Clipsbie (there also receiuing
another from Filbie) Rimham, Castor, and by Yarmouth into the Ocean. The
Waueneie afore mentioned, riseth on the south side of Brisingham, and is
a limit betweene Northfolke and Suffolke. Going therefore by Dis,
Starton, not farre from Octe, it méeteth with the Eie, which riseth
néere Ockold, or betwéene it and Braisworth, & goeth on by Brome, Octe,
Wauen.
and so into the Waueneie. From thence our Waueneie runneth by Silam,
Brodish, Nedam, Harleston, Rednam, Alborow, Flixton, Bungeie,
Sheepemedow, Barsham, Beckles, Albie, & at Whiteacre (as I heare)
parteth in twaine, or receiuing Milford water (which is most likelie) it
Einus.
goeth along by Somerleie, Hormingfléet, S. Olaues, (there receiuing the
Fritha.
Frithstane or Fristan brooke, out of low or litle England) Fristan &
Burgh castell, where it méeteth with the Hiere, & from thencefoorth
accompanieth it (as I said) vnto the sea. Willingham water commeth by
Hensted, Einsted, or Enistate, and falleth into the sea by south of
Kesland.
Cokelus.
The Cokell riseth south southwest of Cokeleie towne in Blithe hundred,
and neere vnto Hastelworth it meeteth with the rill that commeth from
Wisset, and so going on togither by Wenhaston, and Bliborow, it falleth
into the sea at an hauen betwéene Roidon and Walderswicke. A little rill
runneth also thereinto from Eston by Sowold, and another from Dunwich,
by Walderswijke: and hereby it wanteth little that Eston Nesse is not
cut off and made a pretie Iland.
Ford.
The Ford riseth at Yoxford, and going by Forderleie, and Theberton, it
Orus.
falleth at last into Mismere créeke. Into the Oreford hauen runneth one
water comming from Aldborow ward, by a narrow passage from the north
Fromus.
into the south. By west wherof (when we are past a little Ile) it
receiueth the second, descending from betwéene Talingston and Framingham
in Plomes hundred; which cōming at last to Marleford, meeteth with a
Glema.
rill southwest of Farnham called the Gleme (that commeth by Rendlesham,
the Gleinhams) and so passing foorth, it taketh another at Snapesbridge,
comming from Carleton by Saxmundham, Sternefield & Snape. Then going to
Iken, or Ike.
Iken (where it méeteth with the third rill at the west side) it fetcheth
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a compasse by Sudburne east of Orford, and so into the hauen. Next vnto
this by west of Orford, there runneth vp another créeke by Butleie,
whereinto the waters comming from Cellesford, and from the Ike, doo run
both in one bottome. And thus much of Orford hauen.
Deua.
The Deue riseth in Debenham, in the hundred of Hertesméere, and from
thence goeth to Mickford, Winston, Cretingham, Lethringham, Wickham,
hitherto still creeping toward the south: but then going in maner full
south, it runneth neere vnto Ash, Rendlesham, Vfford, Melton, and
Woodbridge, beneath which it receiueth on the west side, a water comming
of two heads, wherof one is by north from Oteleie, and the other by
south from Henleie, which ioining west of Mertelsham, go vnto the said
towne and so into the Deue, east of Mertelsham abouesaid. From thence
the Deue goeth by Waldringfield and Henleie, and méeting soone after
Clarus fons.
with Brightwell brooke, it hasteth into the maine sea, leauing Bawdseie
on the east, where the fall therof is called Bawdseie hauen.
Vrus.
Vre riseth not farre from Bacton, in Hertesmeere hundred, and thense
descendeth into Stow hundred by Gipping Newton, Dagworth, Stow (beneath
which it méeteth with a water comming from Rattlesden, by one house) and
so going on to Nedeham (through Bosméere and Claidon hundreds) to
Blakenham, Bramford, Ypswich, receiuing beneath Stoke, which lieth ouer
against Ypswich, the Chatsham water, that goeth by Belsted, and so into
the Vre, at the mouth whereof is a maruellous deepe and large pit,
whereof some marriners saie that they could neuer find the bottome, and
therefore calling it a well, and ioining the name of the riuer withall,
it commeth to passe that the hauen there is called Vrewell, for which in
these daies we doo pronounce it Orwell. Into this hauen also the Sture
or Stoure hath readie passage, which remaineth in this treatise next of
all to be described.
Sturus.
The Sture or Stoure parteth Essex from Suffolke, as Houeden saith, and
experience confirmeth. It ariseth in Suffolke, out of a lake neere vnto
a towne called Stourméere. For although there come two rilles vnto the
same, whereof the one descendeth from Thirlo, the Wratings and Ketton,
the other from Horshed parke, by Hauerill, &c: yet in summer time they
are often drie, so that they cannot be said to be perpetuall heads vnto
the aforesaid riuer. The Stoure therefore (being, as I take it, called
by Ptolomie, Edomania, for thereon toward the mouth standeth a prettie
towne named Manitrée, which carieth some shadow of that ancient name
thereof vnto this daie, if my coniecture be any thing) ariseth at
Stouremeere, which is a poole conteining twentie acres of ground at the
least, the one side whereof is full of alders, the other of réeds,
wherin the great store of fish there bred, is not a little succoured.
From this méere also it goeth to Bathorne bridge, to Stocke clare,
Cawndish, Pentlo, Paules Beauchampe, Milford, Foxerth, Buresleie,
Sudburie, Bures, Boxsted, Stoke, Nailand, Lanham, Dedham, Strotford,
east Barfold, Brampton, Manitree, Catwade bridge, and so into the sea,
where in the verie fall also it ioineth with Orwell hauen, so néere that
of manie they are reputed as one, and parted but by a shingle that dooth
run along betwéene them: neither dooth it passe cléere in this voiage,
but as it were often occupied by the waie, in receiuing sundrie brookes
and rilles not héere to be omitted.
For on Essex side it hath one from Hemsted, which goeth by Bumsted, and
Birdbrooke: another rising short of Foxerth, that runneth by water
Beauchampe, Brundon, and falleth into the same at Badlington, west of
Sudburie: and the third that glideth by Horkesleie, and méeteth withall
west of Boxsted. On the north, or vpon Suffolke side, it receiueth one
descending from Catiledge, by Bradleie, Thurlow, Wratting, Kiddington,
and at Hauerell falleth into this Sture. The second descendeth northward
from Posling field, and ioineth therewith east of Clare. It was in old
time called Cicux or Ceuxis, and it méeteth with the Stoure in such wise
that they séeme to make a right angle, in the point almost wherof
standeth a ruinous castell. Howbeit as sithence which time this water
(in some mens iudgement) hath béene named Clarus (not so much for the
greatnesse as clearnesse of the streame) even so the Stoure it selfe was
also called Ens as they say, and after their confluence the whole
Clarens, which giueth denomination to a duchie of this Iland of no small
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fame and honour. But these are but méere fables, sith the word Clare is
deriued from the towne, wherein was an house of religion erected to one
Clara, and Clarens brought from the same, because of an honour the
prince had in those parties: which may suffice to know from whence the
name proceedeth. The third ariseth of two heads, whereof one commeth
from Wickham brooke, the other from Chedbar in Risbie hundred, and
ioining about Stanfield, it goeth by Hawton, Somerton, Boxsted,
Stansted, and north of Foxerth falleth into Stoure. The fourth issueth
from betwéene the Waldingfields, and goeth by Edwardstone, Boxsted,
Alington, Polsted, Stoke, and so at south Boxsted falleth into the same.
The fift riseth northwest of Cockefield, and goeth to Cockefield,
Kettle baston.
Laneham, Brimsleie, Midling, and receiuing Kettle Baston water southwest
of Chelsworth (and likewise the Breton that commeth from Bretenham, by
Hitcheham, and Bisseton stréet on the south east of the same towne) it
goeth in by Nedging, Aldham, Hadleie, Lainham, Shellie, Higham, and so
into the Stoure. The sixt is a little rill descending southwest from
Chappell. The seuenth riseth betweene Chappell and Bentleie, and going
betwéene Tatingston, and Whetsted, Holbrooke, and Sutton, it falleth at
length into Stoure, and from thence is neuer heard of.
Ocleie.
As for Ocleie Drill, that riseth betweene Ocleie, and Wikes parkes, and
so goeth into the Stoure, on Essex side, west of Harwich, and east of
Rée Ile; I passe it ouer, because it is of it selfe but a rill, and not
of anie greatnesse, till it come to the mill aboue Ramseie bridge, where
I was once almost drowned (by reason of the ruinous bridge which leadeth
ouer the streame being there verie great) as an arme of the sea that
continuallie ebbeth & floweth. Next vnto this, we came to another that
Mosa.
runneth south of Beaumont by Mosse, and falleth into the sea about the
middest of the Baie, betwixt Harwich and the Naze. Betwixt the Naze also
and the mouth of Colne, is another rill, which riseth at little Bentleie,
Claco.
and thence goeth to Tendring thorpe, through Clacton parke by great
Holland, and east of little Holland, into the déepe sea.
Colunus.
The Colne hath three heads, whereof one is at Ouington that goeth by
Tilberie, and east of Yeldam falleth into the chiefe head which riseth
about Redgewell in Essex, from whence also it goeth to Yeldam and
Hedingham, otherwise called Yngham: also Hedningham or Heuedingham, *
* Sic.
or Heuedingham of the superioritie which accrued therevnto, because the
chiefe lords of the same from time to time kept residence in the towne.
For Heued or Hed signifieth The chiefe, in the old English language,
which in the name of this and manie other townes and villages yet
standing in England cannot easilie be forgotten. The third falleth in
south of Yeldam, and being once met all in one chanell, and called the
Colne, it goeth (as I said) to Hedningham, Hawsted, Erles Colne, Wakes
Colne, Fordon, Bardfold, Colchester, in old time Camalodunum, and so
into the sea at Brickleseie. Some thinke that Colchester and Camalodunum
are sundrie cities and situat in diuerse places, whereby Maldon (or
Ithancester out of whose ruines the said towne of Maldon was erected)
should rather be Camalodunum than Colchester, but hereof I cannot iudge.
Indeed if (as Leland saith) Maldon should be written Malodunum, it were
a likelihood that there assertions should be probable. Some reason also
may be gathered for the same out of Dion, and such as make the Thames
mouth to take his beginning at Colchester water. But I dare not presume
to conclude any thing hereof, least I should séeme rashlie to take hold
of euerie coniecture. This I relie vpon rather as a more certeintie,
that in the first edition of this treatise I was persuaded, that the sea
entring by the Colne made thrée seuerall passages frō thence into the
land: but now I vnderstand that these are seuerall entrances and
streames, of which the Colne is one, another is the Salcote water, which
commeth in beneath the Stroud (a causeie that leadeth vnto Merseie Ile,
ouer which the sea méeteth with a contrarie course) and the third the
faire arme that floweth vnto Maldon, and all these thrée haue their
falles either ouer against or néere vnto the aforesaid Ile, which at a
low water is not halfe a mile from the shore. Into the Colne or Colunus
also (whereof Leland thinketh Colchester to take his name, and not A
colonia Romanorum, although I may not consent to him herein) doo run
manie salt creekes beneath Fingering ho, of whose names sith I doo not
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know, nor whether they be serued with anie backewaters or not, I giue
ouer to intreat anie further & likewise of their positions. Into that of
Maldon runneth manie faire waters, whereof I will saie so much as I know
to be true in maner by experience.
Gwin or Pant.
There is a pretie water that beginneth néere vnto Gwinbach or Winbeche
church in Essex, a towne of old, and yet belonging to the Fitzwaters,
taking name of Gwin, which is beautifull or faire, & Bache that
signifieth a wood: and not without cause, sith not onelie the hilles on
ech side of the said rillet, but all the whole paroch hath sometime
abounded in woods; but now in manner they are vtterlie decaied, as the
like commoditie is euerie where, not onelie thorough excessiue building
for pleasure more than profit, which is contrarie to the ancient end of
building; but also for more increase of pasture & commoditie to the
lords of the soile, through their sales of that emolument, whereby the
poore tenants are inforced to buie their fewell, and yet haue their
rents in triple maner inhanced.) This said brooke runneth directlie from
thence vnto Radwinter, now a parcell of your lordships possessions in
those parts, descended from the Chamberleins, who were sometime chéefe
owners of the same. By the waie also it is increased with sundrie pretie
springs, of which Pantwell is the chéefe (whereof some thinke the whole
brooke to be named Pant) and which (to saie the truth) hath manie a
leasing fathered on the same. Certes by the report of common fame it
hath béene a pretie water, and of such quantitie, that botes haue come
in time past from Bilie abbeie beside Maldon vnto the moores in
Radwinter for corne. I haue heard also that an anchor was found there
neere to a red willow, when the water-courses by act of parlement were
surueied and reformed throughout England, which maketh not a little with
the aforesaid relation. But this is strangest of all, that a lord
sometime of Winbech (surnamed the great eater, because he would breake
his fast with a whole calfe, and find no bones therein as the fable
goeth) falling at contention with the lord Iohn of Radwinter, could
worke him none other iniurie, but by stopping vp the head of Pantwell,
to put by the vse of a mill which stood by the church of Radwinter, and
was serued by that brooke abundantlie. Certes I know the place where the
mill stood, and some posts thereof doo yet remaine. But sée the malice
of mankind, whereby one becommeth a woolfe vnto the other in their
mischeeuous moodes. For when the lord saw his mill to be so spoiled, he
in reuenge of his losse, brake the necke of his aduersarie, when he was
going to horsebacke, as the constant report affirmeth. For the lord of
Radwinter holding a parcell of his manour of Radwinter hall of the
Fitzwaters, his sonne was to hold his stirrop at certeine times when he
should demand the same. Shewing himselfe therefore prest on a time to
doo his said seruice, as the Fitzwater was readie to lift his leg ouer
the saddle, he by putting backe his foot, gaue him such a thrust that he
fell backward, and brake his necke: wherevpon insued great trouble, till
the matter was taken vp by publike authoritie; and that seruile office
conuerted into a pound of pepper, which is trulie paid to this daie. But
to leaue these impertinent discourses, and returne againe to the springs
whereby our Pant or Gwin is increased. There is likewise another in a
pasture belonging to the Grange, now in possession of William Bird
esquier, who holdeth the same in the right of his wife, but in time past
belonging to Tilteie abbeie. The third commeth out of the yard of one of
your lordships manors there called Radwinter hall. The fourth from Iohn
Cockswets house, named the Rotherwell, which running vnder Rothers
bridge, méeteth with the Gwin or Pant on the northwest end of Ferrants
meade, southeast of Radwinter church, whereof I haue the charge by your
honours fauourable preferment.
I might take occasion to speake of another rill which falleth into the
Rother from Bendish hall: but bicause it is for the most part drie in
summer I passe it ouer. Yet I will not omit to speake also of the manor
which was the chiefe lordship sometime of a parish or hamlet called
Bendishes, now worne out of knowledge, and vnited partlie to Radwinter,
and partlie to Ashdon. It belonged first to the Bendishes gentlemen of a
verie ancient house yet extant, of which one laieng the said manour to
morgage to the moonks of Feuersham, at such time as K. Edward the third
went to the siege of Calis, thereby to furnish himselfe the better toward
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the seruice of his prince, it came to passe that he staied longer beyond
the sea than he supposed. Wherevpon he came before his daie to confer
with his creditors, who commending his care to come out of debt, willed
him in friendlie maner not to suspect anie hard dealing on their
behalfes, considering his businesse in seruice of the king was of it
selfe cause sufficient, to excuse his delaie of paiment vpon the daie
assigned. Herevpon he went ouer againe vnto the siege of Calis. But when
the daie came, the moonks for all this made seisure of the manour, and
held it continuallie without anie further recompense, maugre all the
friendship that the aforesaid Bendish could make. The said gentleman
also tooke this cousening part in such choler, that he wrote a note yet
to be séene among his euidences, whereby he admonisheth his posteritie
to beware how they trust either knaue moonke or knaue frier, as one of
the name and descended from him by lineall descent hath more than once
informed me. Now to resume our springs that méet and ioine with our
Pant.
Froshwell.
The next is named Froshwell. And of this spring dooth the whole hundred
beare the name, & after this confluence the riuer it selfe whervnto it
falleth (from by north) so farre as I remember. Certes, all these,
sauing the first and second, are within your lordships towne aforesaid.
The streame therefore running from hence (& now, as I said, called
Froshwell, of Frosh, which signifieth a frog) hasteth immediatlie vnto
old Sandford, then through new Sandford parke, and afterward with full
streame (receiuing by the waie, the Finch brooke that commeth thorough
Finchingfield) to Shalford, Bocking, Stifted, Paswijc, and so to
Blackewater, where the name of Froshwell ceaseth, the water being from
hencefoorth (as I heare) commonlie called Blackwater, vntill it come to
Maldon, where it falleth into the salt arme of the sea that beateth vpon
the towne; and which of some (except I be deceiued) is called also Pant:
and so much the rather I make this conjecture, for that Ithancester
stood somewhere vpon the banks thereof, & in the hundred of Danseie,
whose ruines (as they saie) also are swalowed vp by the said streame,
which can not be verified in our riuer that runneth from Pantwell, which
at the mouth and fall into the great current, excéedeth not (to my
coniecture) aboue one hundred foot. But to returne to our Pant, alias
the Gwin. From Blackwater it goeth to Coxall, Easterford, Braxsted and
Barus.
Wickham, where it méeteth with the Barus, and so going togither as one,
they descend to Heiebridge, and finallie into the salt water aboue
Maldon, and at hand as is aforesaid. As for the Barus, it riseth in a
statelie parke of Essex called Bardfield, belonging to sir Thomas Wroth
whilest he liued, who hath it to him and his heires males for euer, from
the crowne. Being risen, it hasteth directlie to old Saling Brainetrée,
crossing a rillet by the waie comming from Raine, blacke Norleie, white
Norleie, Falkeburne, Wittham, and falleth into the Blackewater beneath
Braxsted on the south.
Chelmer.
Beside this, the said Pant or Gwin receiueth the Chelme or Chelmer,
which ariseth also in Wimbech aforesaid, where it hath two heads: of
which the one is not farre from Brodockes (where master Thomas Wiseman
esquier dwelleth) the other nigh vnto a farme called Highams in the same
paroch, and ioining yer long in one chanell, they hie them toward
Thacsted vnder Prowds bridge, méeting in the waie with a rill comming
from Boiton end, whereby it is somewhat increased. Being past Thacsted,
it goeth by Tilteie, and soone after receiueth one rill which riseth on
Lindis.
the north side of Lindsell, & falleth into the Chelmer by northeast at
Tilteie aforesaid, & another cōming from southwest, rising southeast
from Lindsell at much Eiston. From thence then holding on still with the
course, it goeth to Candfield the more, Dunmow, litle Dunmow, Falsted,
Lies, both Walthams, Springfield, and so to Chelmeresford. Here vpon the
south side I find the issue of a water that riseth fiue miles (or
thereabouts) south and by west of the said towne, from whence it goeth
to Munasing, Buttesburie (there receiuing a rill from by west, to
Ingatstone, Marget Inge, Widford bridge, Writtle bridge, and so to
Chelmeresford (crossing also the second water that descendeth from
Roxford.
Roxford southwest of Writtle by the waie) whereof let this suffice.
From hence the Chelmer goeth directlie toward Maldon by Badow, Owting,
Woodham water, Bilie, and so to Blackwater northwest of Maldon,
receiuing neuerthelesse yer it come fullie thither, a becke also that
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Lée.
goeth from Lée parke, to little Lées, great Lées, Hatfield, Peuerell,
Owting, and so into Blackwater (whereof I spake before) as Maldon
streame dooth a rill from by south ouer against saint Osithes, and also
another by Bradwell. After which the said streame growing also to be
verie great, passeth by the Tolshunts, Tollesbie, and so foorth into the
maine sea neere vnto Marseie: betwéene which fall and the place where
Salute water entreth into the land, Plautus abode the comming of
Claudius sometime into Britaine, when he being hardlie beeset, did send
vnto him for aid and spéedie succour, who also being come did not onelie
rescue his legat, but in like manner wan Colchester, and put it to the
spoile, if it be Camalodunum.
Burne.
The Burne riseth somewhere about Ronwell, and thence goeth to Hull
bridge, south Fambridge, Kirkeshot ferrie, and so to Foulnesse. And as
this is the short course of that riuer, so it brancheth, and the south
arme thereof receiueth a water comming from Haukewell, to great
Stanbridge, and beneath Pakesham dooth méet by south with the said arme,
and so finish vp his course, as we doo our voiage also about the coast
of England.
Thus haue I finished the description of such riuers and streames as fall
into the Ocean, according to my purpose, although not in so precise an
order and manner of handling as I might, if information promised had
been accordinglie performed; or others would, if they had taken the like
in hand. But this will I saie of that which is here done, that from the
Solueie by west, which parteth England & Scotland on that side; to the
Twede, which separateth the said kingdoms on the east: if you go
backeward, contrarie to the course of my description, you shall find it
so exact, as beside a verie few by-riuers, you shall not need to vse
anie further aduise for the finding and falles of the aforesaid streames.
For such hath beene my helpe of maister Sackfords cardes, and conference
with other men about these, that I dare pronounce them to be perfect and
exact. Furthermore, this I haue also to remember, that in the courses of
our streames, I regard not so much to name the verie towne or church, as
the limits of the paroch. And therefore if I saie it goeth by such a
towne, I thinke my dutie discharged, if I hit vpon anie part or parcell
of the paroch. This also hath not a little troubled me, I meane the
euill writing of the names of manie townes and villages: of which I haue
noted some one man, in the description of a riuer, to write one towne
two or thrée manner of waies, whereby I was inforced to choose one (at
aduenture most commonlie) that séemed the likeliest to be sound in mine
opinion and iudgement.
Finallie, whereas I minded to set downe an especiall chapter of ports
and créeks, lieng on ech coast of the English part of this Ile; and had
prouided the same in such wise as I iudged most conuenient: it came to
passe, that the greater part of my labour was taken from me by stealth,
and therefore as discouraged to meddle with that argument, I would haue
giuen ouer to set downe anie thing therefore at all: and so much the
rather, for that I sée it may prooue a spurre vnto further mischéefe, as
things come to passe in these daies. Neuerthelesse, because a little
thereof is passed in the beginning of the booke, I will set downe that
parcell thereof which remaineth, leauing the supplie of the rest either
to my selfe hereafter, (if I may come by it) or to some other that can
better performe the same.
It maie be that I haue in these former chapters omitted sundrie hauens
to be found vpon the shore of England, and some of them serued with
backe waters, through want of sound and sufficient information from such
as haue written vnto me of the same. In recompense whereof I haue
thought good to adde this chapter of ports and creekes, whereby (so
farre as to me is possible) I shall make satisfaction of mine
ouersights. And albeit I cannot (being too too much abused by some that
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haue béereft me of my notes in this behalfe) bring my purpose to passe
for all the whole coast of England round about, from Berwike to the
Solue: yet I will not let to set downe so much as by good hap remaineth,
whereby my countriemen shall not altogither want that benefit, hoping in
time to recouer also the rest, if God grant life and good successe
thereto.
Northumberland.
In Northumberland therefore we haue Berwike, Holie Iland, Bamborow,
Bedwell, Donstanborow, Cocket Iland, Warkeworth, Newbiggin, Almow,
Blithes nuke, and Tinmouth hauen.
Durham.
In the bishoprijc, Sonderland, Stocketon, Hartlepoole, These.
Yorkeshire.
In Yorkeshire, Dapnam sands, Steningreene, Staies, Runswike, Robinhoods
baie, Whitbie, Scarborow, Fileie, Flamborow, Bricklington, Horneseie
becke, Sister kirke, Kelseie, Cliffe, Pattenton, Holmes, Kenningham,
Pall, Hidon, Hulbrige, Beuerlie, Hull, Hasell, Northferebie, Bucke
créeke, Blacke cost, Wrethell, Howden.
Lincolneshire.
In Lincolneshire, Selbie, Snepe, Turnebrige, Rodiffe, Catebie,
Stockwith, Torkeseie, Gainsborow, Southferebie, Barton a good point,
Barrow a good hauen, Skatermill a good port, Penningham, Stalingborow a
good hauen, Guimsbie a good port, Clie, March chappell, Saltfléete,
Wilgripe, Mapleford, saint Clements, Wenfléete, Friscon, Toft, Skerbike,
Boston, Frompton, Woluerton, Fossedike a good hauen.
Northfolke.
In Northfolke, Linne a good hauen, Snatchham, Hitchham, Desingham good,
Thunstone, Thorneham good, Brankester good, Burnham good, with diuers
townes and villages thereto belonging, Welles good, Strikeie, Marston,
Blakeleie towne, Withon Claie, Blakelie hauen good, Salthouse créeke,
Sheringham hith, Roughton, Cromer, Beston, Trinningham, Mounsleie,
Bromwall, Haseborow, Wakesham, Eckelles, Winterton, Custer, Helmesleie,
Okell, Vpton, Waibridge, Yarmouth, good all the waie to Norwich, with
diuerse villages on the riuer side.
Suffolke.
In Suffolke, Becles, Bongeie, Southton, Corton, Gorton, Laistow a good
port, Kirtill, Pakefield, Kasseldon, Bliborow, Coffe hith, Eston,
Walderswijc, Donewich, Swold hauen, Sisewell, Thorpe, Alborow, Orford a
good hauen, Balseie good, Felixstow, Colneie, Sproten, Ypswich,
Downambridge good, Pinnemill, Shoteleie, Cataweie, Barfold.
Essex.
In Essex we haue Dedham, Maning trée, Thorne, Wrabbesnes, Ramseie,
Harwich, Douercourt, Handford, Okeleie, Kirbie, Thorpe, Brichwill,
Walton mill, Walton hall, Ganfléete, Newhauen good, S. Osithes, Bentleie
good, Bricleseie, Thorlington (where good ships of a hundred tun or more
be made) Alsford, Wiuenhall, Colchester, Cold hith, Rough hedge,
Fingering ho, east Merseie, west Merseie, Salcot, Goldanger, Borow,
Maldon, Stanesgate, Sudmester, S. Peters, Burnham, Crixseie, Aldon,
Clements gréene, Hulbridge, Pacleston, Barling, litle Wakering, much
Wakering, south Sudburie, Wakeringham, Melton, Papper hill, or Lee,
Beamfléete, Pidseie range, Fobbing, Hadleie good, Mucking, Stanford, and
Tilberie ferrie.
Kent.
In Kent, Harling, Cliffe, Tanfleete, Stokehow, Snodlond, Melhall,
Maidston, Ailesford, New hith, Rochester, Gelingham, Reinham, Vpchurch,
Halsted, Quinborow, Milton, Feuersham, Whitstaple, Herne, Margate,
Brodestaier, Ramsgate; and manie of these good créekes: also Sandwich,
Douer, Hide, reasonable ports, although none of the best.
Sussex.
In Sussex we haue Smalade with the créekes adioining to the same, Ridon,
Appledoure, Rie a good hauen, and Winchelseie nothing at all inferiour
to the same, and so manie shires onelie are left vnto me at this time,
wherefore of force I must abruptlie leaue off to deale anie further with
the rest, whose knowledge I am right sure would haue been profitable:
and for the which I hoped to haue reaped great thankes at the hands of
such sea-faring men, as should haue had vse hereof.
Desunt cætera.
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The aire of Britaine.
The aire (for the most part) throughout the Iland is such, as by reason
in maner of continuall clouds, is reputed to be grosse, and nothing so
pleasant as that is of the maine. Howbeit, as they which affirme these
things, haue onelie respect to the impediment or hinderance of the sunne
beames, by the interposition of the clouds and oft ingrossed aire: so
experience teacheth vs, that it is no lesse pure, wholesome, and
commodious, than is that of other countries, and (as Cæsar himselfe
hereto addeth) much more temperate in summer than that of the Galles,
from whom he aduentured hither. Neither is there anie thing found in the
aire of our region, that is not vsuallie séene amongst other nations
lieng beyond the seas. Wherefore, we must néeds confesse, that the
situation of our Iland (for benefit of the heauens) is nothing inferiour
to that of anie countrie of the maine, where so euer it lie vnder the
open firmament. And this Plutarch knew full well, who affirmeth a part
of the Elisian fields to be found in Britaine, and the Iles that are
situate about it in the Ocean.
The soile.
The soile of Britaine is such, as by the testimonies and reports both of
the old and new writers, and experience also of such as now inhabit the
same, is verie fruitfull; and such in deed as bringeth foorth manie
commodities, whereof other countries haue néed, and yet it selfe (if fond
nicenesse were abolished) néedlesse of those that are dailie brought from
other places. Neuerthelesse it is more inclined to féeding and grasing,
than profitable for tillage, and bearing of corne; by reason whereof the
countrie is wonderfullie replenished with neat, and all kind of cattell:
and such store is there also of the same in euerie place, that the fourth
part of the land is scarselie manured for the prouision and maintenance
of graine. Certes this fruitfulnesse was not vnknowne vnto the Britons
long before Cæsars time, which was the cause wherefore our predecessors
liuing in those daies in maner neglected tillage, and liued by féeding
and grasing onelie. The grasiers themselues also then dwelled in
mooueable villages by companies, whose custome was to diuide the ground
amongst them, and each one not to depart from the place where his lot
Criacht.
laie (a thing much like to the Irish Criacht) till by eating vp of the
countrie about him, he was inforced to remooue further, and séeke for
better pasture. And this was the British custome (as I learne) at first.
It hath béene commonlie reported, that the ground of Wales is neither so
fruitfull as that of England, neither the soile of Scotland so
bountifull as that of Wales: which is true, for corne and for the most
part: otherwise, there is so good ground in some parts of Wales, as is
in England, albeit the best of Scotland be scarselie comparable to the
meane of either of both. Howbeit, as the bountie of the Scotish dooth
faile in some respect, so dooth it surmount in other; God and nature
hauing not appointed all countries to yéeld foorth like commodities.
But where our ground is not so good as we would wish, we haue (if néed
be) sufficient help to cherish our ground withall, and to make it more
fruitfull. For beside the compest that is carried out of the husbandmens
yards, ditches, ponds, doouehouses, or cities and great townes: we haue
with vs a kind of white marle, which is of so great force, that if it be
cast ouer a péece of land but once in thrée score years, it shall not
need of anie further compesting. Hereof also dooth Plinie speake, lib.
Marle.
17, cap. 6, 7, 8, where he affirmeth that our marle indureth vpon the
earth by the space of fourescore yeares: insomuch that it is laid vpon
the same but once in a mans life, whereby the owner shall not need to
trauell twise in procuring to commend and better his soile. He calleth
it Marga, and making diuerse kinds thereof, he finallie commendeth ours,
and that of France, aboue all other, which lieth sometime a hundred foot
déepe, and farre better than the scattering of chalke vpon the same, as
the Hedni and Pictones did in his time, or as some of our daies also doo
practise: albeit diuerse doo like better to cast on lime, but it will
not so long indure, as I haue heard reported.
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Plentie of riuers.
There are also in this Iland great plentie of fresh riuers and streams,
as you haue heard alreadie, and these throughlie fraught with all kinds
of delicate fish accustomed to be found in riuers. The whole Ile
Hilles.
likewise is verie full of hilles, of which some (though not verie manie)
are of exceeding heigth, and diuerse extending themselues verie far from
the beginning; as we may see by Shooters hill, which rising east of
London, and not farre from the Thames, runneth along the south side of
the Iland westward, vntill it come to Cornewall. Like vnto these also
are the Crowdon hils, which though vnder diuers names (as also the other
from the Peke) doo run into the borders of Scotland. What should I
speake of the Cheuiot hilles, which reach twentie miles in length? of
(*) Here lacks.
the blacke mounteines in Wales, which go from (*) to (*) miles at the
least in length? of the Cle hilles in Shropshire, which come within
foure miles of Ludlow, and are diuided from some part of Worcester by
the Teme? of the Grames in Scotland, and of our Chiltren, which are
eightéene miles at the least from one end of them, which reach from
Henlie in Oxfordshire to Dunstable in Bedfordshire, and are verie well
replenished with wood and corne? notwithstanding that the most part
yéeld a sweet short grasse, profitable for shéepe. Wherein albeit they
of Scotland doo somewhat come behind vs, yet their outward defect is
inwardlie recompensed, not onelie with plentie of quarries (and those of
sundrie kinds of marble, hard stone, and fine alabaster) but also rich
mines of mettall, as shall be shewed hereafter.
Winds.
In this Iland likewise the winds are commonlie more strong and fierce,
than in anie other places of the maine, which Cardane also espied: and
that is often séene vpon the naked hilles, not garded with trées to
beare and kéepe it off. That grieuous inconuenience also inforceth our
Building.
nobilitie, gentrie, and communaltie, to build their houses in the
vallies, leauing the high grounds vnto their corne and cattell, least
the cold and stormie blasts of winter should bréed them greater
annoiance: whereas in other regions each one desireth to set his house
aloft on the hill, not onlie to be seene a farre off, and cast forth his
beames of statelie and curious workemanship into euerie quarter of the
countrie; but also (in hot habitations) for coldnesse sake of the aire,
sith the heat is neuer so vehement on the hill top as in the vallie,
because the reuerberation of the sunne beames either reacheth not so
farre as the highest, or else becommeth not so strong as when it is
reflected upon the lower soile.
Husbandrie amended.
But to leaue our buildings vnto the purposed place (which
notwithstanding haue verie much increased, I meane for curiositie and
cost, in England, Wales, and Scotland, within these few yeares) and to
returne to the soile againe. Certeinelie it is euen now in these our
daies growne to be much more fruitfull, than it hath béene in times
past. The cause is for that our countriemen are growne to be more
painefull, skilfull, and carefull through recompense of gaine, than
heretofore they haue béene: insomuch that my Synchroni or time fellows
can reape at this present great commoditie in a little roome; whereas of
late yeares, a great compasse hath yéelded but small profit, and this
onelie through the idle and negligent occupation of such, as dailie
manured and had the same in occupieng. I might set downe examples of
these things out of all the parts of this Iland, that is to saie, manie
of England, more out of Scotland, but most of all out of Wales: in which
two last rehearsed, verie little other food and liuelihood was wont to
be looked for (beside flesh) more than the soile of it selfe, and the
cow gaue; the people in the meane time liuing idelie, dissolutelie, and
by picking and stealing one from another. All which vices are now (for
the most part) relinquished, so that each nation manureth hir owne with
triple commoditie, to that it was before time.
Pasture.
The pasture of this Iland is according to the nature and bountie of the
soile, whereby in most places it is plentifull, verie fine, batable, and
such as either fatteth our cattell with speed, or yéeldeth great
abundance of milke and creame: whereof the yellowest butter and finest
chéese are made. But where the blue claie aboundeth (which hardlie
drinketh vp the winters water in long season) there the grasse is
spearie, rough, and verie apt for brushes: by which occasion it commeth
nothing so profitable vnto the owner as the other. The best pasture
ground of all England is in Wales, & of all the pasture in Wales that of
Cardigan is the cheefe. I speake of the same which is to be found in the
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mounteines there, where the hundred part of the grasse growing is not
eaten, but suffered to rot on the ground, whereby the soile becommeth
matted, and diuerse bogges and quicke moores made withall in long
continuance: because all the cattell in the countrie are not able to eat
it downe. If it be to be accompted good soile, on which a man may laie a
wand ouer night, and on the morrow find it hidden and ouergrowen with
grasse: it is not hard to find plentie thereof in manie places of this
land. Neuertheless, such is the fruitfulnes of the aforsaid countie that
it farre surmounteth this proportion, whereby it may be compared for
batablenesse with Italie, which in my time is called the paradise of the
world, although by reason of the wickednesse of such as dwell therein it
may be called the sinke and draine of hell: so that whereas they were
woont to saie of vs that our land is good but our people euill, they did
but onlie speake it; whereas we know by experience that the soile of
Italie is a noble soile, but the dwellers therein farre off from anie
vertue or goodnesse.
Medowes.
Our medowes, are either bottomes (whereof we haue great store, and those
verie large, bicause our soile is hillie) or else such as we call land
meads, and borowed from the best & fattest pasturages. The first of them
are yearelie & often ouerflowen by the rising of such streames as passe
through the same, or violent falles of land-waters, that descend from
the hils about them. The other are seldome or neuer ouerflowen, and that
is the cause wherefore their grasse is shorter than that of the
bottomes, and yet is it farre more fine, wholesome, and batable, sith
the haie of our low medowes is not onelie full of sandie cinder, which
breedeth sundrie diseases in our cattell, but also more rowtie, foggie,
and full of flags, and therefore not so profitable for stouer and
forrage as the higher meads be. The difference furthermore in their
commodities is great, for whereas in our land meadowes we haue not often
aboue one good load of haie, or peraduenture a little more in an acre of
ground (I vse the word Carrucata or Carruca which is a waine load, and,
as I remember, vsed by Plinie lib. 33. cap. 11.) in low meadowes we haue
sometimes thrée, but commonlie two or vpward, as experience hath oft
confirmed.
Of such as are twise mowed I speake not, sith their later math is not so
wholesome for cattell as the first; although in the mouth more pleasant
for the time: for thereby they become oftentimes to be rotten, or to
increase so fast in bloud, that the garget and other diseases doo
consume manie of them before the owners can séeke out any remedie, by
Phlebotomie or otherwise. Some superstitious fooles suppose that they
which die of the garget are ridden with the night mare, and therefore
they hang vp stones which naturallie haue holes in them, and must be
found vnlooked for; as if such a stone were an apt cockeshot for the
diuell to run through and solace himselfe withall, whilest the cattell
go scot free and are not molested by him. But if I should set downe but
halfe the toies that superstition hath brought into our husbandmens
heads in this and other behalfes, it would aske a greater volume than is
conuenient for such a purpose, wherefore it shall suffice to haue said
thus much of these things.
Corne.
The yéeld of our corne-ground is also much after this rate folowing.
Through out the land (if you please to make an estimat thereof by the
acre) in meane and indifferent yeares, wherein each acre of rie or
wheat, well tilled and dressed, will yeeld commonlie sixtéene or twentie
bushels, an acre of barlie six and thirtie bushels, of otes and such
like foure or fiue quarters, which proportion is notwithstanding oft
abated toward the north, as it is oftentimes surmounted in the south. Of
mixed corne, as peason and beanes, sowen togither, tares and otes (which
they call bulmong) rie and wheat named miscelin here is no place to
speake, yet their yéeld is neuerthelesse much after this proportion, as
I haue often marked. And yet is not this our great foison comparable to
that of hoter countries of the maine. But of all that euer I read, the
increase which Eldred Danus writeth of in his De imperio Iudæorum in
Aethiopia surmounteth, where he saith that in the field néere to the
Sabbatike riuer, called in old time Gosan, the ground is so fertile,
that euerie graine of barleie growing dooth yéeld an hundred kernels at
the least vnto the owner.
Of late yeares also we haue found and taken vp a great trade in planting
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of hops, whereof our moorie hitherto and vnprofitable grounds doo yeeld
such plentie & increase, that their are few farmers or occupiers in the
countrie, which haue not gardens and hops growing of their owne, and
those farre better than doo come from Flanders vnto us. Certes the
corruptions vsed by the Flemings, and forgerie dailie practised in this
kind of ware, gaue vs occasion to plant them here at home: so that now
we may spare and send manie ouer vnto them. And this I know by
experience, that some one man by conuersion of his moorie grounds into
hopyards, wherof before he had no commoditie, dooth raise yearelie by so
little as twelue acres in compasse two hundred markes; all charges borne
toward the maintenance of his familie. Which industrie God continue!
though some secret fréends of Flemings let not to exclaime against this
commoditie, as a spoile of wood, by reason of the poles, which
neuerthelesse after three yeares doo also come to the fire, and spare
their other fewell.
The cattell which we breed are commonlie such, as for greatnesse of
Cattell.
bone, swéetnesse of flesh, and other benefits to be reaped by the same,
giue place vnto none other: as may appeare first by our oxen, whose
largenesse, height, weight, tallow, hides, and hornes are such, as none
of anie other nation doo commonlie or may easilie excéed them. Our
shéepe likewise for good tast of flesh, quantitie of lims, finesse of
fléece caused by their hardnesse of pasturage, and abundance of increase
(for in manie places they bring foorth two or thrée at an eaning) giue
no place vnto anie, more than doo our goates, who in like sort doo
follow the same order, and our déere come not behind. As for our conies,
Meall and Disnege.
I haue séene them so fat in some soiles, especiallie about Meall and
Disnege, that the grease of one being weighed, hath peised verie néere
six or seuen ounces. All which benefits we first refer to the grace and
goodnesse of God, and next of all vnto the bountie of our soile, which
he hath indued with so notable and commodious fruitfulnesse.
But as I meane to intreat of these things more largelie hereafter, so
will I touch in this place one benefit which our nation wanteth, and
Wine.
that is wine; the fault whereof is not in our soile, but the negligence
of our countriemen (especiallie of the south partes) who doo not inure
the same to this commoditie, and which by reason of long discontinuance,
is now become vnapt to beare anie grapes almost for pleasure & shadow,
much lesse then the plaine fields or seuerall vineyards for aduantage
and commoditie. Yet of late time some haue assaied to deale for wine, as
to your lordship also is right well knowen. But sith that liquor when it
commeth to the drinking hath bin found more hard, than that which is
brought from beyond the sea, and the cost of planting and keeping
thereof so chargeable, that they may buie it far better cheape from
other countries: they haue giuen ouer their enterprises without anie
consideration, that as in all other things, so neither the ground it
selfe in the beginning, nor successe of their trauell can answer their
expectation at the first, vntill such time as the soile be brought as it
were into acquaintance with this commoditie, and that prouision may be
made for the more easinesse of charge, to be imploied vpon the same.
If it be true, that where wine dooth last and indure well, there it will
grow no worse: I muse not a little wherefore the planting of vines
should be neglected in England. That this liquor might haue growne in
this Iland heretofore, first the charter that Probus the emperour gaue
equallie to vs, the Galles, and Spaniards, is one sufficient testimonie.
And that it did grow here, beside the testimonie of Beda lib. 1. cap. 1.
the old notes of tithes for wine that yet remaine in the accompts of
some parsons and vicars in Kent, & elsewhere, besides the records of
sundrie sutes, commensed in diuerse ecclesiasticall courts, both in
Kent, Surrie, &c: also the inclosed parcels almost in euerie abbeie yet
called the vineyardes, may be a notable witnesse, as also the plot which
we now call east Smithfield in London giuen by Canutus sometime king of
this land, with other soile there about vnto certeine of his knights,
with the libertie of a Guild which therof was called Knighten Guild. The
truth is (saith Iohn Stow our countrie man, and diligent traueller in
the old estate of this my natiue citie) that it is now named Port soken
ward, and giuen in time past to the religious house within Algate.
Howbeit first Otwell, the Archouell, Otto, & finallie Geffrie erle of
Essex constables of the Tower of London, withheld that portion frō
the said house, vntill the reigne of king Stephan, and thereof made a
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vineyard to their great commoditie and lucre. The Ile of Elie also was
in the first times of the Normans called Le Ile des vignes. And good
record appéereth, that the bishop there had yearelie thrée or foure
tunne at the least giuen him Nomine decimæ, beside whatsoeuer ouer-summe
of the liquor did accrue to him by leases and other excheats, whereof
also I haue seene mention. Wherefore our soile is not to be blamed, as
though our nights were so exceeding short, that in August and September
the moone which is ladie of moisture, & chiefe ripener of this liquor,
cannot in anie wise shine long inough vpon the same: a verie méere toie
and fable right worthie to be suppressed, because experience conuinceth
the vpholders thereof euen in the Rhenish wines.
Wad.
The time hath béene also that wad, wherwith our countrie men died their
faces (as Cæsar saith) that they might séeme terrible to their enimies
in the field, and also women & their daughters in law did staine their
bodies & go naked, in that pickle to the sacrifices of their gods,
coueting to resemble therin the Ethiopians, as Plinie saith li. 22. cap.
Madder.
1. and also madder haue béene (next vnto our tin and woolles) the chiefe
Rape.]
commodities, and merchandize of this realme. I find also that rape oile
hath beene made within this land. But now our soile either will not or
at the leastwise may not beare either wad or madder: I saie not that the
ground is not able so to doo, but that we are negligent, afraid of the
pilling of our grounds, and carelesse of our owne profit, as men rather
willing to buie the same of others than take anie paine to plant them
Flax.
here at home. The like I may saie of flax, which by law ought to be
sowen in euerie countrie-towne in England, more or lesse: but I sée no
successe of that good and wholesome law, sith it is rather
contemptuouslie reiected than otherwise dutifullie kept in anie place of
England.
Some saie that our great number of lawes doo bréed a generall negligence
and contempt of all good order; bicause we haue so manie, that no
subiect can liue without the transgression of some of them, and that the
often alteration of our ordinances dooth much harme in this respect,
which (after Aristotle) doth séeme to carie some reason withall, for (as
Cornelius Gallus hath:)
Eleg. 2.
Euentus varios res noua semper habet.
But verie manie let not to affirme, that the gréedie corruption of the
promoters on the one side, facilitie in dispensing with good lawes, and
first breach of the same in the lawmakers & superiors, & priuat respects
of their establishment on the other, are the greatest causes whie the
inferiours regard no good order, being alwaies so redie to offend
without anie facultie one waie, as they are otherwise to presume, vpon
Principis longè magis exemplo quion culpa peccare solent.
the examples of their betters when anie hold is to be taken. But as in
these things I haue no skill, so I wish that fewer licences for the
priuat commoditie but of a few were granted (not that thereby I denie
the maintenance of the prerogatiue roiall, but rather would with all my
hart that it might be yet more honorablie increased) & that euerie one
which by féeed friendship (or otherwise) dooth attempt to procure oughts
from the prince, that may profit but few and proue hurtfull to manie,
might be at open assizes and sessions denounced enimie to his countrie
and commonwealth of the land.
Glasse also hath beene made here in great plentie before, and in the
time of the Romans; and the said stuffe also, beside fine scissers,
shéeres, collars of gold and siluer for womens necks, cruses and cups of
amber, were a parcell of the tribute which Augustus in his daies laid
vpon this Iland. In like sort he charged the Britons with certeine
implements and vessels of iuorie (as Strabo saith.) Wherby it appéereth
that in old time our countriemen were farre more industrious and
painefull in the vse and application of the benefits of their countrie,
than either after the comming of the Saxons or Normans, in which they
gaue themselues more to idlenesse and following of the warres.
Earth.
If it were requisit that I should speake of the sundrie kinds of moold,
as the cledgie or claie, whereof are diuerse sorts (red, blue, blacke
and white) also the red or white sandie, the lomie, rosellie, grauellie,
chalkie or blacke, I could saie that there are so manie diuerse veines
in Britaine, as else where in anie quarter of like quantitie in the
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world. Howbeit this I must néeds confesse, that the sandie and cledgie
doo beare great swaie: but the claie most of all, as hath beene, and yet
is alwaies séene & felt through plentie and dearth of corne. For if this
latter (I meane the claie) doo yeeld hir full increase (which it dooth
commonlie in drie yeares for wheat) then is there generall plentie:
wheras if it faile, then haue we scarsitie, according to the old rude
verse set downe of England, but to be vnderstood of the whole Iland, as
experience dooth confirme:
When the sand dooth serue the claie,
Then may we sing well awaie,
But when the claie dooth serue the sand,
Then is it merie with England.
Vallies.
I might here intreat of the famous vallies in England, of which one is
called the vale of White horsse, another of Eouesham, commonlie taken
for the granarie of Worcestershire, the third of Ailesbirie that goeth
by Tame, the rootes of Chilterne hils, to Donstable, Newport panell,
Stonie Stratford, Buckhingham, Birstane parke, &c. Likewise of the
fourth of Whitehart or Blackemoore in Dorsetshire. The fift of Ringdale
or Renidale, corruptlie called Ringtaile, that lieth (as mine author
saith) vpon the edge of Essex and Cambridgeshire, and also the Marshwood
vale: but for somuch as I know not well their seuerall limits, I giue
ouer to go anie further in their description. In like sort it should not
Fennes.
be amisse to speake of our fennes, although our countrie be not so full
of this kind of soile as the parties beyond the seas, to wit, Narbon,
&c: and thereto of other pleasant botoms, the which are not onelie
indued with excellent riuers and great store of corne and fine fodder
for neat and horsses in time of the yeare (whereby they are excéeding
beneficiall vnto their owners) but also of no small compasse and
quantitie in ground. For some of our fens are well knowen to be either
of ten, twelue, sixtéene, twentie, or thirtie miles in length, that of
the Girwies yet passing all the rest, which is full 60 (as I haue often
read.) Wherein also Elie the famous Ile standeth, which is seuen miles
euerie waie, and wherevnto there is no accesse but by thrée causies,
whose inhabitants in like sort by an old priuilege may take wood, sedge,
turfe, &c; to burne: likewise haie for their cattell, and thatch for
their houses of custome, and each occupier in his appointed quantitie
through out the Ile; albeit that couetousnesse hath now begun somewhat
to abridge this large beneuolence and commoditie, aswell in the said Ile
as most other places of this land.
Finallie, I might discourse in like order of the large commons,
Commons.
laid out heretofore by the lords of the soiles for the benefit of such poore, as
inhabit within the compasse of their manors. But as the true intent of
the giuers is now in most places defrauded, in so much that not the
poore tenants inhabiting vpon the same, but their landlords haue all the
commoditie and gaine, so the tractation of them belongeth rather to the
second booke. Wherfore I meane not at this present to deale withall, but
reserue the same wholie vnto the due place whilest I go forward with the
rest; setting downe neuerthelesse by the waie a generall commendation of
the whole Iland, which I find in an ancient monument, much vnto this
effect.
Illa quidem longè celebris splendore, beata,
Glebis, lacte, fauis, supereminet insula cunctis,
Quas regit ille Deus, spumanti cuius ab ore
Profluit oceanus, &c.
And a little after: Testis Lundonia ratibus, Wintonia Baccho,
Herefordia grege, Worcestria fruge redundans,
Batha lacu, Salabyra feris, Cantuaria pisce,
Eboraca syluis, Excestria clara metallis,
Norwicum Dacis hybernis, Cestria Gallis,
Cicestrum Norwagenis, Dunelmia præpinguis,
Testis Lincolnia gens infinita decore,
Testis Eli formosa situ, Doncastria visu, &c.
[Page 189]
There are, which indeuoring to bring all things to their Saxon
originall, doo affirme, that this diuision of waies, (whereof we now
intreat) should apperteine vnto such princes of that nation as reigned
here, since the Romanes gaue vs ouer: and herevpon they inferre, that
Wattling street was builded by one Wattle from the east vnto the west.
But how weake their coniectures are in this behalfe, the antiquitie of
these streets it selfe shall easilie declare, whereof some parcelles,
after a sort, are also set downe by Antoninus; and those that haue
written of the seuerall iournies from hence to Rome: although
peraduenture not in so direct an order as they were at the first
established. For my part, if it were not that I desire to be short in
this behalfe, I could with such notes as I haue alreadie collected for
that purpose, make a large confutation of diuerse of their opinions
concerning these passages, and thereby rather ascribe the originall of
these waies to the Romans than either the British or Saxon princes. But
sith I haue spent more time in the tractation of the riuers than was
allotted vnto me, and that I sée great cause (notwithstanding my late
alledged scruple) wherfore I should hold with our Galfride before anie
other; I will omit at this time to discourse of these things as I would,
and saie what I maie for the better knowledge of their courses,
procéeding therein as followeth.
First of all I find, that Dunwallon king of Britaine, about 483 yeares
before the birth of our sauiour Iesus Christ, séeing the subiects of his
realme to be in sundrie wise oppressed by théeues and robbers as they
trauelled to and fro; and being willing (so much as in him laie) to
redresse these inconueniences, caused his whole kingdome to be surueied;
and then commanding foure principall waies to be made, which should
leade such as trauelled into all parts thereof, from sea to sea, he gaue
sundrie large priuileges vnto the same, whereby they became safe, and
verie much frequented. And as he had regard herein to the securitie of
his subiects, so he made sharpe lawes grounded vpon iustice, for the
suppression of such wicked members as did offer violence to anie
traueler that should be met withall or found within the limits of those
passages. How and by what parts of this Iland these waies were conueied
at the first, it is not so wholie left in memorie: but that some
question is mooued among the learned, concerning their ancient courses.
Howbeit such is the shadow remaining hitherto of their extensions, that
if not at this present perfectlie, yet hereafter it is not vnpossible,
but that they may be found out, & left certeine vnto posteritie. It
seemeth by Galfride, that the said Dunwallon did limit out those waies
by dooles and markes, which being in short time altered by the auarice
of such irreligious persons as dwelt néere, and incroched vpon the same
(a fault yet iustlie to be found almost in euerie place, euen in the
time of our most gratious and souereigne Ladie Elizabeth, wherein the
lords of the soiles doo vnite their small occupieng, onelie to increase
a greater proportion of rent; and therefore they either remooue, or giue
licence to erect small tenements vpon the high waies sides and commons;
wherevnto, in truth, they haue no right: and yet out of them also doo
raise a new commoditie) and question mooued for their bounds before
Belinus his sonne, he to auoid all further controuersie that might from
thencefoorth insue, caused the same to be paued with hard stone of
eightéene foot in breadth, ten foot in depth, and in the bottome thereof
huge flint stones also to be pitched, least the earth in time should
swallow vp his workemanship, and the higher ground ouer-grow their
rising crests. He indued them also with larger priuileges than before,
protesting that if anie man whosoeuer should presume to infringe his
peace, and violate the lawes of his kingdome in anie maner of wise,
neere vnto or vpon those waies, he should suffer such punishment without
all hope to escape (by freendship or mercie) as by the statutes of this
realme latelie prouided in those cases were due vnto the offendors. The
[Page 190]
names of these foure waies are the Fosse, the Gwethelin or Watling, the
Erming, and the Ikenild.
Fosse.
The Fosse goeth not directlie but slopewise ouer the greatest part of
this Iland, beginning at Dotnesse or Totnesse in Deuonshire, where Brute
somtime landed, or (as Ranulphus saith, which is more likelie) at the
point of Cornwall, though the eldest writers doo séeme to note the
contrarie. From hence it goeth thorough the middle of Deuonshire &
Summersetshire, and commeth to Bristow, from whence it runneth
manifestlie to Sudberie market, Tetburie, and so foorth holdeth on as
you go almost to the midde waie betweene Glocester and Cirnecester,
(where the wood faileth, and the champeigne countrie appeareth toward
Cotteswald) streight as a line vntill you come to Cirnecester it selfe.
Some hold opinion that the waie, which lieth from Cirnecester to Bath,
should be the verie Fosse; and that betwixt Cirnecester and Glocester to
be another of the foure waies, made by the Britons. But ancient report
grounded vpon great likelihood, and confirmed also by some experience,
iudgeth that most of the waies crossed ech other in this part of the
realme. And of this mind is Leland also, who learned it of an abbat of
Cirnecester that shewed great likelihood by some records thereof. But to
procéed. From Cirnecester, it goeth by Chepingnorton to Couentrie,
Leircester, Newarke, and so to Lincolne ouerthwart the Watlingstreet:
where, by generall consent of all the writers (except Alfred of
Beuerleie, who extendeth it vnto Cathnesse in Scotland) it is said to
haue an end.
Watling stréet.
The Watlingstréete begun (as I said) by Dunwallo, but finished by
Gutheline, of whome it is directlie to be called Gutheline stréet,
though now corrupted into Watlingstréet, beginneth at Douer in Kent, and
so stretcheth through the middest of Kent vnto London, and so foorth
(peraduenture by the middest of the citie) vnto Verolamium or
Verlamcester, now saint Albons, where, in the yeare of grace, one
thousand fiue hundred thirtie & one, the course thereof was found by a
man that digged for grauell wherwith to mend the high waie. It was in
this place eighteene foot broad, and about ten foot déepe, and stoned in
the bottome in such wise as I haue noted afore, and peraduenture also on
the top: but these are gone, and the rest remaine equall in most places,
and leuell with the fields. The yelow grauell also that was brought
thither in carts two thousand yéeres passed, remained there so fresh and
so strong, as if it had béene digged out of the naturall place where it
grew not manie yéeres before. From hence it goeth hard by Margate,
leauing it on the west side. And a little by south of this place, where
the priorie stood, is a long thorough fare vpon the said street, méetly
well builded (for low housing) on both sides. After this it procéedeth
(as the chronicle of Barnwell saith) to Caxton, and so to Huntingdon, &
then forward, still winding in and out till it not onelie becommeth a
bound vnto Leicestershire toward Lugbie, but also passeth from
Castleford to Stamford, and so foorth by west of Marton, which is but a
mile from Torkeseie.
Here by the waie I must touch the opinion of a traueller of my time, who
noteth the said stréet to go another waie, insomuch that he would haue
it to crosse the third Auon, betwixt Newton and Dowbridge, and so go on
to Binford bridge, Wibtoft, the High crosse, and thence to Atherston
vpon Ancre. Certes it may be, that the Fosse had his course by the
countrie in such sort as he describeth; but that the Watlingstréet
should passe by Atherston, I cannot as yet be persuaded. Neuerthelesse
his coniecture is not to be misliked, sith it is not vnlikelie that
thrée seuerall waies might méet at Alderwaie (a towne vpon Tame, beneath
Salters bridge) for I doo not doubt that the said towne did take his
name of all three waies, as Aldermarie church in London did of all thrée
Maries, vnto whom it hath béene dedicated: but that the Watlingstréet
should be one of them, the compasse of his passage will in no wise
permit. And thus much haue I thought good to note by the waie. Now to
returne againe to Leland, and other mens collections.
The next tidings that we heare of the Watlingstréet, are that it goeth
thorough or neere by the parke at Pomfret, as the common voice also of
the countrie confirmeth. Thence it passeth hastilie ouer Castelford
bridge to Aberford, which is fiue miles from thence, and where are most
[Page 191]
manifest tokens of this stréet and his broad crest by a great waie
togither, also to Yorke, to Witherbie, and then to Borowbridge, where on
the left hand thereof stood certeine monuments, or pyramides of stone,
sometimes placed there by the ancient Romanes. These stones (saith
Leland) stand eight miles west from Bowis, and almost west from Richmond
is a little thorough fare called Maiden castell, situate apparantlie
vpon the side of this stréet. And here is one of those pyramides or
great round heapes, which is three score foot compasse in the bottome.
There are other also of lesse quantities, and on the verie top of ech of
them are sharpe stones of a yard in length; but the greatest of all is
eighteene foot high at the least, from the ground to the verie head. He
addeth moreouer, how they stand on an hill in the edge of Stanes moore,
and are as bounds betwéene Richmondshire, and Westmerland. But to
procéed. This stréet lieng a mile from Gilling, and two miles from
Richmond commeth on from Borowbridge to Catericke, eightéene miles; that
is, twelue to Leuing, & six to Catericke; then eleuen miles to Greteie
or Gritto, fiue miles to Bottles, eight miles to Burgh on Stanes moore,
foure miles from Applebie, and fiue to Browham, where the said stréet
commeth thorough Winfoll parke, and ouer the bridge on Eiemouth and
Loder, and leauing Perith a quarter of a mile or more on the west side
of it, goeth to Carleill seuenteene miles from Browham, which hath béene
some notable thing. Hitherto it appeareth euidentlie, but going from
hence into Scotland, I heare no more of it, vntill I come to Cathnesse,
which is two hundred and thirtie miles or thereabouts out of England.
Erming stréet.
The Erming stréet, which some call the Lelme, stretcheth out of the
east, as they saie, into the southeast, that is, from Meneuia or S.
Dauids in Wales vnto Southampton, whereby it is somewhat likelie indeed
that these two waies, I meane the Fosse and the Erming, should méet
about Cirnecester, as it commeth from Glocester, according to the
opinion conceiued of them in that countrie. Of this waie I find no more
written, and therefore I can saie no more of it, except I should indeuor
to driue awaie the time, in alleging what other men say thereof, whose
minds doo so farre disagrée one from another, as they doo all from a
truth, and therefore I giue them ouer as not delighting in such dealing.
Ikenild.
The Ikenild or Rikenild began somewhere in the south, and so held on
toward Cirnecester, then to Worcester, Wicombe, Brimcham, Lichfield,
Darbie, Chesterfield; and crossing the Watlingstréet somewhere in
Yorkeshire, stretched foorth in the end vnto the mouth of the Tine,
where it ended at the maine sea, as most men doo confesse. I take it to
be called the Ikenild, because it passed thorough the kingdome of the
Icenes. For albeit that Leland & other following him doo séeme to place
the Icenes in Norffolke and Suffolke; yet in mine opinion that can not
well be doone, sith it is manifest by Tacitus, that they laie néere vnto
the Silures, and (as I gesse) either in Stafford and Worcester shires,
or in both, except my coniecture doo faile me. The author of the booke,
intituled Eulogium historiarum, doth call this stréet the Lelme. But as
herein he is deceiued, so haue I dealt withall so faithfullie as I may
among such diuersitie of opinions; yet not denieng but that there is
much confusion in the names and courses of these two latter, the
discussing whereof I must leaue to other men that are better learned
than I.
Now to speake generallie of our common high waies through the English
part of the Ile (for of the rest I can saie nothing) you shall
vnderstand that in the claie or cledgie soile they are often verie déepe
and troublesome in the winter halfe. Wherfore by authoritie of parlement
an order is taken for their yearelie amendment, whereby all sorts of the
common people doo imploie their trauell for six daies in summer vpon the
same. And albeit that the intent of the statute is verie profitable for
the reparations of the decaied places, yet the rich doo so cancell their
portions, and the poore so loiter in their labours, that of all the six,
scarcelie two good days works are well performed and accomplished in a
parish on these so necessarie affaires. Besides this, such as haue land
lieng vpon the sides of the waies, doo vtterlie neglect to dich and
scowre their draines and watercourses, for better auoidance of the
winter waters (except it may be set off or cut from the meaning of the
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statute) whereby the stréets doo grow to be much more gulled than
before, and thereby verie noisome for such as trauell by the same.
Sometimes also, and that verie often, these daies works are not imploied
vpon those waies that lead from market to market, but ech surueior
amendeth such by-plots & lanes as séeme best for his owne commoditie,
and more easie passage vnto his fields and pastures. And whereas in some
places there is such want of stones, as thereby the inhabitants are
driuen to seeke them farre off in other soiles: the owners of the lands
wherein those stones are to be had, and which hitherto haue giuen monie
to haue them borne awaie, doo now reape no small commoditie by raising
the same to excessiue prices, whereby their neighbours are driuen to
grieuous charges, which is another cause wherefore the meaning of that
good law is verie much defrauded. Finallie, this is another thing
likewise to be considered of, that the trées and bushes growing by the
stréets sides; doo not a little keepe off the force of the sunne in
summer for drieng vp of the lanes. Wherefore if order were taken that
their boughs should continuallie be kept short, and the bushes not
suffered to spread so far into the narrow paths, that inconuenience
would also be remedied, and manie a slough proue hard ground that yet is
déepe and hollow. Of the dailie incroaching of the couetous vpon the hie
waies I speake not. But this I know by experience, that wheras some
stréets within these fiue and twentie yeares haue béene in most places
fiftie foot broad according to the law, whereby the traueller might
either escape the théefe or shift the mier, or passe by the loaden cart
without danger of himselfe and his horsse; now they are brought vnto
twelue, or twentie, or six and twentie at the most, which is another
cause also whereby the waies be the worse, and manie an honest man
encombred in his iourneie. But what speake I of these things whereof I
doo not thinke to heare a iust redresse, because the error is so common,
and the benefit thereby so swéet and profitable to manie, by such houses
and cotages as are raised vpon the same.
Such as are bred in this Iland are men for the most part of a good
complexion, tall of stature, strong in bodie, white of colour, and
thereto of great boldnesse and courage in the warres. As for their
generall comelinesse of person, the testimonie of Gregorie the great, at
such time as he saw English capteins sold at Rome, shall easilie
confirme what it is, which yet dooth differ in sundrie shires and
soiles, as also their proportion of members, as we may perceiue betwéene
Herefordshire and Essex men, or Cambridgeshire and the Londoners for the
one, and Pokington and Sedberrie for the other; these latter being
distinguished by their noses and heads, which commonlie are greater
there than in other places of the land. As concerning the stomachs also
of our nation in the field, they haue alwaies beene in souereigne
admiration among forren princes: for such hath béene the estimation of
our souldiers from time to time, since our Ile hath béene knowne vnto
the Romans, that wheresoeuer they haue serued in forren countries, the
cheefe brunts of seruice haue beene reserued vnto them. Of their
conquests and bloudie battels woone in France, Germanie, and Scotland,
our histories are full: & where they haue beene ouercome, the victorers
themselues confessed their victories to haue béene so déerelie bought,
that they would not gladlie couet to ouercome often, after such
difficult maner. In martiall prowesse, there is little or no difference
betwéene Englishmen and Scots: for albeit that the Scots haue beene
often and verie gréeuouslie ouercome by the force of our nation, it hath
not béene for want of manhood on their parts, but through the mercie of
God shewed on vs, and his iustice vpon them, sith they alwaies haue
begun the quarels, and offered vs méere iniurie with great despite and
crueltie.
Leland noting somewhat of the constitution of our bodies, saith these
[Page 193]
words grounding (I thinke vpon Aristotle, who writeth that such as dwell
neere the north, are of more courage and strength of bodie than
skilfulnesse or wisdome.) The Britons are white in colour, strong of
bodie, and full of bloud, as people inhabiting neere the north, and
farre from the equinoctiall line, where the soile is not so fruitfull,
and therefore the people not so feeble: whereas contrariwise such as
dwell toward the course of the sunne, are lesse of stature, weaker of
bodie, more nice, delicate, fearefull by nature, blacker in colour, &
some so blacke in déed as anie crow or rauen. Thus saith he. Howbeit, as
those which are bred in sundrie places of the maine, doo come behind vs
in constitution of bodie, so I grant, that in pregnancie of wit,
nimblenesse of limmes, and politike inuentions, they generallie exceed
vs: notwithstanding that otherwise these gifts of theirs doo often
degenerate into méere subtiltie, instabilitie, vnfaithfulnesse, &
crueltie. Yet Alexander ab Alexandro is of the opinion, that the
fertilest region dooth bring foorth the dullest wits, and contrariwise
the harder soile the finest heads. But in mine opinion, the most fertile
soile dooth bring foorth the proudest nature, as we may see by the
Campanians, who (as Cicero also saith) had "Penes eos ipsum domicilium
superbiæ." But nether of these opinions do iustlie take hold of vs, yet
hath it pleased the writers to saie their pleasures of vs. And for that
we dwell northward, we are commonlie taken by the forren
historiographers, to be men of great strength and little policie, much
courage and small shift, bicause of the weake abode of the sunne with
vs, whereby our braines are not made hot and warmed, as Pachymerus
noteth lib. 3: affirming further, that the people inhabiting in the
north parts are white of colour, blockish, vnciuill, fierce and warlike,
which qualities increase, as they come neerer vnto the pole; whereas the
contrarie pole giueth contrarie gifts, blacknesse, wisdome, ciuilitie,
weakenesse, and cowardise, thus saith he. But alas, how farre from
probabilitie or as if there were not one and the same conclusion to be
made of the constitutions of their bodies, which dwell vnder both the
poles. For in truth his assertion holdeth onelie in their persons that
inhabit néere vnto and vnder the equinoctiall. As for the small tariance
of the sunne with vs, it is also confuted by the length of our daies.
Non vi sed virtute, non armis sed ingenio vincuntur Angli.
Wherefore his reason seemeth better to vphold that of Alexander ab
Alexandro afore alledged, than to prooue that we want wit, bicause our
brains are not warmed by the tariance of the sunne. And thus also dooth
Comineus burden vs after a sort in his historie, and after him, Bodinus.
But thanked be God, that all the wit of his countriemen, if it may be
called wit, could neuer compasse to doo so much in Britaine, as the
strength and courage of our Englishmen (not without great wisedome and
forecast) haue brought to passe in France. The Galles in time past
contemned the Romans (saith Cæsar) bicause of the smalnesse of their
stature: howbeit, for all their greatnesse (saith he) and at the first
brunt in the warres, they shew themselues to be but féeble, neither is
their courage of any force to stand in great calamities. Certes in
accusing our wisedome in this sort, he dooth (in mine opinion) increase
our commendation. For if it be a vertue to deale vprightlie with
singlenesse of mind, sincerelie and plainlie, without anie such
suspicious fetches in all our dealing, as they commonlie practise in
their affaires, then are our countrimen to be accompted wise and
vertuous. But if it be a vice to colour craftinesse, subtile practises,
doublenesse, and hollow behauiour, with a cloake of policie, amitie and
wisedome: then are Comineus and his countrimen to be reputed vicious, of
whome this prouerbe hath of old time beene vsed as an eare marke of
their dissimulation,
Galli ridendo fidem frangunt. &c.
How these latter points take hold in Italie, I meane not to discusse.
How they are dailie practised in manie places of the maine, & he
accompted most wise and politike, that can most of all dissemble; here
is no place iustlie to determine (neither would I wish my countrimen to
learne anie such wisedome) but that a king of France could saie; "Qui
nescit dissimulare, nescit regnare, or viuere," their owne histories
are testimonies sufficient. Galen, the noble physician, transferring the
forces of our naturall humors from the bodie to the mind, attributeth to
the yellow colour, prudence; to the blacke, constancie; to bloud, mirth;
[Page 194]
to phlegme, courtesie: which being mixed more or lesse among themselues,
doo yéeld an infinit varietie. By this meanes therefore it commeth to
passe, that he whose nature inclineth generallie to phlegme, cannot but
be courteous: which joined with strength of bodie, and sinceritie of
behauiour (qualities vniuersallie granted to remaine so well in our
nation, as other inhabitants of the north) I cannot see what may be an
hinderance whie I should not rather conclude, that the Britons doo
excell such as dwell in the hoter countries, than for want of craft and
subtilties to come anie whit behind them. It is but vanitie also for
some to note vs (as I haue often heard in common table talke) as
barbarous, bicause we so little regard the shedding of our bloud, and
rather tremble not when we sée the liquor of life to go from vs (I vse
their owne words.) Certes if we be barbarous in their eies, bicause we
be rather inflamed than appalled at our wounds, then are those obiectors
flat cowards in our iudgement: sith we thinke it a great péece of
manhood to stand to our tackling, vntill the last drop, as men that may
spare much bicause we haue much: whereas they hauing lesse are afraid to
lose that little which they haue: as Frontinus also noteth. As for that
which the French write of their owne manhood in their histories, I make
little accompt of it: for I am of the opinion, that as an Italian
writing of his credit; A papist intreating of religion, a Spaniard of
his méekenesse, or a Scot of his manhood, is not to be builded on; no
more is a Frenchman to be trusted in the report of his owne affaires,
wherein he dooth either dissemble or excéed, which is a foule vice in
such as professe to deale vprightlie. Neither are we so hard to
strangers as Horace wold séeme to make vs, sith we loue them so long as
they abuse vs not, & make accompt of them so far foorth as they despise
vs not. And this is generallie to be verified, in that they vse our
priuileges and commodities for diet, apparell and trade of gaine, in so
ample manner as we our selues enioy them: which is not lawfull for vs to
doo in their countries, where no stranger is suffered to haue worke, if
an home-borne be without. But to procéed with our purpose.
With vs (although our good men care not to liue long, but to liue well)
some doo liue an hundred yéers, verie manie vnto foure score: as for
thrée score, it is taken but for our entrance into age, so that in
Britaine no man is said to wax old till he draw vnto thrée score, at
which time God spéed you well commeth in place; as Epaminondas sometime
Salutations according to our ages.
said in mirth, affirming that vntill thirtie yeares of age, You are
welcome is the best salutation; and from thence to thréescore, God kéepe
you; but after thréescore, it is best to saie, God spéed you well: for
at that time we begin to grow toward our iournies end, whereon manie a
one haue verie good leaue to go. These two are also noted in vs (as
things apperteining to the firme constitutions of our bodies) that there
hath not béene séene in anie region so manie carcasses of the dead to
remaine from time to time without corruption as in Britaine: and that
after death by slaughter or otherwise, such as remaine vnburied by foure
or fiue daies togither, are easie to be knowne and discerned by their
fréends and kindred; whereas Tacitus and other complaine of sundrie
nations, saieng, that their bodies are "Tam fluidae substantiæ," that
within certeine houres the wife shall hardlie know hir husband, the
mother hir sonne, or one fréend another after their liues be ended. In
like sort the comelinesse of our liuing bodies doo continue from midle
age (for the most) euen to the last gaspe, speciallie in mankind. And
albeit that our women through bearing of children doo after fortie begin
to wrinkle apace, yet are they not commonlie so wretched and hard
fauoured to looke vpon in their age, as the French women, and diuerse of
other countries with whom their men also doo much participate; and
thereto be so often waiward and peeuish, that nothing in maner may
content them.
I might here adde somewhat also of the meane stature generallie of our
women, whose beautie commonlie excéedeth the fairest of those of the
maine, their comlinesse of person and good proportion of limmes, most of
theirs that come ouer vnto vs from beyond the seas. This neuerthelesse I
vtterlie mislike in the poorer sort of them, for the wealthier doo
sildome offend herein: that being of themselues without gouernement,
they are so carelesse in the education of their children (wherein their
husbands are also to be blamed) by means whereof verie manie of them
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neither fearing God, neither regarding either maners or obedience, doo
oftentimes come to confusion, which (if anie correction or discipline
had béene vsed toward them in youth) might haue prooued good members of
their common-wealth & countrie, by their good seruice and industrie. I
could make report likewise of the naturall vices and vertues of all
those that are borne within this Iland, but as the full tractation herof
craueth a better head than mine to set foorth the same, so will I giue
place to other men that list to take it in hand. Thus much therefore of
the constitutions of our bodies: and so much may suffice.
After the comming of Brutus into this Iland (which was, as you haue read
in the foresaid treatise, about the yeare of the world, 2850, or 1217
before the incarnation of Christ, although Goropius after his maner doo
vtterlie denie our historie in this behalfe) he made a generall surueie
of the whole Iland from side to side, by such means to view and search
out not onelie the limits and bounds of his dominions, but also what
commodities this new atchiued conquest might yéeld vnto his people.
Furthermore, finding out at the last also a conuenable place wherin to
erect a citie, he began there euen the verie same which at this daie is
called London, naming it Trenouanton, in remembrance of old Troie, from
whence his ancestors proceeded, and for which the Romans pronounced
afterward Trinobantum, although the Welshmen doo call it still
Trenewith. This citie was builded (as some write) much about the tenth
yeare of his reigne, so that he liued not aboue fiftéene yeares after he
had finished the same. But of the rest of his other acts attempted and
doone, before or after the erection of this citie, I find no certeine
report, more than that when he had reigned in this Iland after his
arriuall by the space of foure and twentie yeares, he finished his daies
at Trenouanton aforesaid, being in his yoong and florishing age, where
his carcase was honourablie interred. As for the maner of his death, I
find as yet no mention thereof among such writers as are extant; I meane
whether it grew vnto him by defect of nature, or force of gréeuous
wounds receiued in his warres against such as withstood him from time to
time in this Iland, and therefore I can saie nothing of that matter.
Herein onelie all agree, that during the time of his languishing paines,
he made a disposition of his whole kingdome, diuiding it into three
parts or portions, according to the number of his sonnes then liuing,
whereof the eldest excéeded not eight and twentie yeares of age, as my
coniecture giueth me.
Locrine.
To the eldest therefore, whose name was Locrine, he gaue the greatest
and best region of all the rest, which of him to this daie is called
Lhoegria.
Lhoegres among the Britons, but in our language England: of such English
Saxons as made conquest of the same. This portion also is included on
the south with the British sea, on the est with the Germane Ocean, on
the north with the Humber, and on the west with the Irish sea, and the
riuers Dee and Sauerne, whereof in the generall description of this
Camber.
Cambri.
Iland I haue spoken more at large. To Camber his second sonne he
assigned all that lieth beyond the Sauerne and Dée, toward the west
(which parcell in these daies conteineth Southwales and Northwales) with
sundrie Ilands adiacent to the same, the whole being in maner cut off
and separated from England or Lhoegria by the said streams, wherby it
séemeth also a peninsula or by-land, if you respect the small hillie
portion of ground that lieth indifferentlie betwéene their maine
courses, or such branches (at the least) as run and fall into them. The
Welshmen or Britons call it by the ancient name still vnto this day, but
we Englishmen terme it Wales: which denomination we haue from the
Saxons, who in time past did vse the word Walsh in such sort as we doo
Strange: for as we call all those strangers that are not of our nation,
so did they name them Walsh which were not of their countrie.
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Albanact.
The third and last part of the Iland he allotted vnto Albanact his
youngest sonne (for he had but three in all, as I haue said before)
whose portion séemed for circuit to be more large than that of Camber,
and in maner equall in greatnesse with the dominions of Locrinus. But if
you haue regard to the seuerall commodities that are to be reaped by
each, you shall find them to be not much discrepant or differing one
from another: for whatsoeuer the first & second haue in plentie of
corne, fine grasse, and large cattell, this latter wanteth not in
excéeding store of fish, rich mettall, quarries of stone, and abundance
of wild foule: so that in mine opinion, there could not be a more equall
partition than this made by Brute, and after the aforesaid maner. This
later parcell at the first, tooke the name of Albanactus, who called it
Albania. But now a small portion onelie of the region (being vnder the
regiment of a duke) reteineth the said denomination, the rest being
called Scotland, of certeine Scots that came ouer from Ireland to
inhabit in those quarters. It is diuided from Lhoegres also by the Solue
Albania.
and the Firth, yet some doo note the Humber; so that Albania (as Brute
left it) conteined all the north part of the Iland that is to be found
beyond the aforesaid streame, vnto the point of Cathnesse.
To conclude, Brute hauing diuided his kingdome after this maner, and
therein contenting himselfe as it were with the generall title of the
whole, it was not long after yer he ended his life; and being solemnelie
interred at his new citie by his thrée children, they parted each from
other, and tooke possession of their prouinces. But Scotland after two
Locrine king also of Scotland.
yeares fell againe into the hands of Locrinus as to the chiefe lord,
by the death of his brother Albanact, who was slaine by Humber king of
the Scithians, and left none issue behind him to succéed him in that
kingdome.
The Scots alwaies desirous to shake off the English
subiection, have often made cruell & odious attempts so to doo, but in
vaine.
It is possible that some of the Scotish nation, reading the former
chapter, will take offence with me for meaning that the principalitie of
the north parts of this Ile hath alwais belonged to the kings of
Lhoegres. For whose more ample satisfaction in this behalfe, I will here
set downe a discourse thereof at large, written by diuerse, and now
finallie brought into one treatise, sufficient (as I thinke) to satisfie
the reasonable, although not halfe enough peraduenture to content a
wrangling mind, sith there is (or at the leastwise hath beene) nothing
more odious among some, than to heare that the king of England hath
ought to doo in Scotland.
How their historiographers haue attempted to shape manie coloured
excuses to auoid so manifest a title, all men may see that read their
bookes indifferentlie, wherevnto I referre them. For my part there is
little or nothing of mine herein, more than onelie the collection and
abridgement of a number of fragments togither, wherein chéeflie I haue
vsed the helpe of Nicholas Adams a lawier, who wrote thereof (of set
purpose) to king Edward the sixt, as Leland did the like to king Henrie
the eight, Iohn Harding vnto Edward the fourth; beside thrée other,
whereof the first dedicated his treatise to Henrie the fourth, the
second to Edward the third, and the third to Edward the first, as their
writings yet extant doo abundantlie beare witnesse. The title also that
Leland giueth his booke, which I haue had written with his owne hand,
beginneth in this maner: "These remembrances following are found in
chronicles authorised, remaining in diuerse monasteries both in England
and Scotland, by which it is euidentlie knowne and shewed, that the
kings of England haue had, and now ought to haue the souereigntie ouer
all Scotland, with the homage and fealtie of the kings there reigning
from time to time, &c." Herevnto you haue heard alreadie, what diuision
Brute made of this Iland not long before his death, wherof ech of his
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children, so soone as he was interred, tooke seisure and possession.
Howbeit, after two yeares it happened that Albanact was slaine,
wherevpon Locrinus and Camber raising their powers, reuenged his death:
and finallie the said Locrinus made an entrance vpon Albania, seized it
into his owne hands (as excheated wholie vnto himselfe) without yéelding
anie part thereof vnto his brother Camber, who made no claime nor title
vnto anie portion of the same. Hereby then (saith Adams) it euidentlie
appeareth, that the entire seigniorie ouer Albania consisted in
Locrinus, according to which example like law among brethren euer since
hath continued, in preferring the eldest brother to the onelie benefit
of the collaterall ascension from the yongest, as well in Scotland as in
England vnto this daie.
Ebranke the lineall heire from the bodie of this Locrine, that is to
saie, the sonne of Mempris, sonne of Madan, sonne of the same Locrine
builded in Albania the castell of Maidens, now called Edenborough (so
called of Aidan somtime king of Scotland, but at the first named Cair
Minid Agnes. 1. the castell on mount Agnes, and the castell of virgins)
and the castell of Alcluith or Alclude, now called Dunbriton, as the
Scotish Hector Boetius confesseth: whereby it most euidentlie appeareth,
that our Ebranke was then thereof seized. This Ebranke reigned in the
said state ouer them a long time; after whose death Albania (as annexed
to the empire of Britaine) descended to the onelie king of Britons,
vntill the time of the two sisters sonnes, Morgan and Conedage, lineall
heires from the said Ebranke, who brotherlie at the first diuided the
realme betwéen them; so that Morgan had Lhoegres, and Conedage had
Albania. But shortlie after Morgan the elder brother, pondering in his
head the loue of his brother with the affection to a kingdome, excluded
nature, and gaue place to ambition, and therevpon denouncing warre,
death miserablie ended his life (as the reward of his vntruth) whereby
Conedage obteined the whole empire of all Britaine: in which state he
remained during his naturall life.
From him the same lineallie descended to the onelie king of Britons,
vntill (and after) the reigne of Gorbodian, who had issue two sonnes,
Ferrex, and Porrex. This Porrex, requiring like diuision of the land,
affirming the former partitions to be rather of law than fauor, was by
the hands of his elder brother (best loued of queene mother) both of his
life and hoped kingdome béereaued at once. Wherevpon their vnnaturall
mother, vsing hir naturall malice for the death of hir one sonne
(without regard of the loosing of both) miserablie slue the other in his
bed mistrusting no such treason.
Cloten, by all writers, as well Scotish as other, was the next
inheritour to the whole empire: but lacking power (the onelie meane in
those daies to obteine right) he was contented to diuide the same among
foure of his kinsmen; so that Scater had Albania. But after the death of
this Cloten, his sonne Dunwallo Mulmutius made warre vpon these foure
kings, and at last ouercame them, and so recouered the whole dominion.
In token of which victorie, he caused himselfe to be crowned with a
crowne of gold, the verie first of that mettall (if anie at all were
before in vse) that was worne among the kings of this nation. This
Dunwallo erected temples, wherein the people should assemble for praier;
to which temples he gaue benefit of sanctuarie. He made the law for
wager of battell, in cases of murder and felonie, whereby a théefe that
liued and made his art of fighting, should for his purgation fight with
the true man whom he had robbed, beléeuing assuredlie, that the gods
(for then they supposed manie) would by miracle assigne victorie to none
but the innocent partie. Certes the priuileges of this law, and benefit
of the latter, as well in Scotland as in England, be inioied to this
daie, few causes by late positiue laws among vs excepted, wherin the
benefit of wager of battell is restreined. By which obedience to his
lawes, it dooth manifestlie appéere, that this Dunwallo was then seized
of Albania, now called Scotland. This Dunwallo reigned in this estate
ouer them manie yeares.
Beline and Brenne the sonnes also of Dunwallo, did after their fathers
death fauourablie diuide the land betweene them; so that Beline had
Lhoegres, & Brenne had Albania: but for that this Brenne (a subiect)
without the consent of his elder brother and lord, aduentured to marrie
with the daughter of the king of Denmarke; Beline seized Albania into
his owne hands, and thervpon caused the notable waies priuileged by
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Dunwallons lawes to be newlie wrought by mens hands, which for the
length extended from the further part of Cornewall, vnto the sea by
north Cathnesse in Scotland. In like sort to and for the better
maintenance of religion in those daies, he constituted ministers called
archflamines, in sundrie places of this Iland (who in their seuerall
functions resembled the bishops of our times) the one of which remained
at Ebranke now called Yorke, and the whole region Caerbrantonica
(whereof Ptolomie also speaketh but not without wresting of the name)
whose power extended to the vttermost bounds of Albania, wherby likewise
appeareth that it was then within his owne dominion. After his death the
whole Ile was inioied by the onelie kings of Britaine, vntill the time
of Vigenius & Peridurus lineall heires from the said Beline, who
fauourablie made partition, so that Vigenius had all the land from
Humber by south, and Peridurus from thence northwards all Albania, &c.
This Vigenius died, and Peridurus suruiued, and thereby obteined the
whole, from whom the same quietlie descended, and was by his posteritie
accordinglie inioied, vntill the reigne of Coell the first of that name.
In his time an obscure nation (by most writers supposed Scithians)
passed by seas from Ireland, and arriued in that part of Britaine called
Albania: against whome this Coell assembled his power, and being entred
Albania to expell them, one Fergus in the night disguised, entered the
tent of this Coell, and in his bed traitorouslie slue him.
This Fergus was therfore, in reward of his great prowesse, made there
king, whervpon they sat downe in that part, with their wiues and
children, and called it Scotland, and themselues Scots: from the
beginning of the world, foure thousand six hundred and seauentéene
yeares after the Scotish accompt, which by iust computation and
confession of all their owne writers, is six hundred yeares lacking ten,
after that Brutus had reigned ouer the whole Iland, the same land being
inioied by him and his posteritie before their comming, during two and
fiftie descents of the kings of Britaine, which is a large prescription.
Certes this intrusion into a land so manie hundred yeares before
inhabited, and by so manie descents of kings quietlie inioied, is the
best title that all their owne writers can alledge for them. But to
proceed. Fergus herevpon immediatlie did diuide Albania also among his
capteins and their souldiers: whereby it most euidentlie appeareth, that
there were no people of that nation inhabiting there before, in proofe
whereof the same partition shall follow.
The lands of Cathnes lieng against Orkneie, betwéene Dummesbeie and the
Out of Hector Boecius lib. 1.
water of Thane, was giuen vnto one Cornath, a capteine and his people.
The lands betwéene the water of Thane & Nes, now called Rosse, being in
bredth from Cromart to the mouth of the water of Locht, were giuen to
Lutorke, another capteine and his people. The lands betweene Spaie and
Nes, from the Almane seas to the Ireland seas, now called Murraie land,
were giuen to one Warroch and his people. The land of Thalia, now called
Boin Ainze, Bogewall, Gariot, Formartine, and Bowguhan, were giuen to
one Thalis and his people. The lands of Mar Badezenoch, and Lochquhaber,
were giuen to Martach and his people. The lands of Lorne and Kintier,
with the hilles and mounteins thereof, lieng from Mar to the Ireland
seas, were giuen to capteine Nanance and his people. The lands of Athole
were giuen to Atholus, another capteine and his people. The lands of
Strabraun, & Brawdawane lieng west from Dunkell, were giuen to Creones &
Epidithes two capteins. The lands of Argile, were giuen to Argathelus a
capteine. The lands of Linnox & Clidisdale were allotted to Lolgona a
capteine. The lands of Siluria now called Kile, Carrike & Cuningham,
were giuen to Silurth another capteine. The lands of Brigance now called
Gallowaie, were giuen to the companie called Brigandes, which (as their
best men) were appointed to dwell next the Britons, who afterward
expelled the Britons from Annandale in Albania, whereby it is confessed
to be before inhabited by Britons. The residue of the land now called
Scotland, that is to saie: Meirnis, Angus, Steremond, Gowrie, Strahern,
Pirth, Fiffe, Striueling, Callender, Calderwood, Lougthian, Mers,
Teuedale, with other the Rement Dales, & the Sherifdome, of Berwicke,
were then enioied by a nation mingled in marriage with the Britons, and
Berouicum potiùs à Berubio promontorio.
in their obedience, whose capteine called Beringer builded the castell
and towne of Berwicke vpon Twede, & these people were called Picts, vpon
whome by the death of this Coell, these Scots had opportunitie to vse
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wars, whereof they ceased not, vntill such time as it pleased God to
appoint another Coell king of Britons, against whose name, albeit they
hoped for a like victorie to the first, yet he preuailed and ceased not
his warre, vntill these Scots were vtterlie expelled out of all the
bounds of Britaine, in which they neuer dared to reenter, vntill the
troublesome reigne of Sisilt king of Britons, which was the twelft king
after this Coell. During all which time the countrie was reinhabited by
the Britons. But then the Scots turning the ciuill discord of this
realme, betweene this Sisilt and his brother Blede to their best
aduantage, arriued againe in Albania, & there made one Reuther their
king.
Vpon this their new arriuall, new warre was made vpon them by this
Sisilt king of Britons, in which warre Reuther their new king died, and
Thereus succéeded, against whome the warre of Britons ceased not, vntill
he freelie submitted himselfe to the said Sicill king of Britons at
Ebranke, that is Yorke, where shortlie after the tenth yeare of his
reigne he died. Finnane brother of Josine succeeded by their election to
the kingdome of Scots, who shortlie after (compelled by the warres of
the same Sicill) declared himselfe subiect, and for the better assurance
of his faith and obeisance to the king of Britons, deliuered his sonne
Durstus into the hands of this Sicill: who fantasieng the child, and
hoping by his owne succession to alter their subtiltie (I will not saie
duplicitie saith Adams) married him in the end to Agasia his owne
daughter.
Durstus.
This Durstus was their next king; but for that he had married a Briton
woman, (though indeed she was a kings daughter) the Scots hated him for
the same cause, for which they ought rather to haue liked him the
better, and therefore not onelie traitorouslie slue him; but further to
declare the end of their malice, disinherited (as much as in them was)
the issues of the same Durstus and Agasia. Herevpon new warre sproong
betwéene them and vs, which ceased not vntill they were contented to
receiue Edeir to their king, the next in bloud then liuing, descended
from Durstus and Agasia, and thereby the bloud of the Britons, of the
part of the mother, was restored to the crowne of Albania: so that
nature, whose law is immutable, caused this bond of loue to hold. For
shortlie after this Edeir attended vpon Cassibelane king of Britons, for
the repulse of Iulius Cæsar, as their owne author Boetius confesseth,
who commanded the same as his subiect. But Iulius Cæsar, after his
second arriuall, by treason of Androgeus preuailed against the Britons,
and therevpon pursued this Edeir into Scotland; and (as himselfe saith
in his commentaries) subdued all the Ile of Britaine. Which though the
liuing Scots denie it, their dead writers confesse that he came beyond
Calender wood, and cast downe Camelon, the principall citie of the
Picts. And in token of this victorie, not farre from Carron, builded a
round temple of stone, which remained in some perfection vntill the
reigne of our king Edward called the first after the conquest, by whome
it was subuerted: but the monument thereof remaineth to this daie.
Marius.
Marius the sonne of Aruiragus, being king of all Britaine, in his time
one Roderike a Scithian, with a great rabble of néedie souldiours, came
to the water of Frith in Scotland, which is an arme of the sea, diuiding
Pentland from Fiffe: against whome this Marius assembled a power, by
which he slue this Rodericke, and discomfited his people in Westmerland:
but to those that remained aliue, he gaue the countrie of Cathnesse in
Scotland, which prooueth it to be within his owne dominion.
Coelus.
Coell the sonne of this Marius had issue Lucius, counted the first
Christian king of this nation: he conuerted the three archflamines of
this land into bishopriks, and ordeined bishops vnto ech of them. The
first remained at London, and his power extended from the furthest part
of Cornewall to Humber water. The second dwelled at Yorke, and his power
stretched from Humber to the furthest part of all Scotland. The third
aboded at Caerleon vpon the riuer of Wiske in Glamorgan in Wales, & his
power extended from Seuerne through all Wales. Some write that he made
but two, and turned their names to archbishops, the one to remaine at
Canturburie, the other at Yorke: yet they confesse that he of Yorke had
iurisdiction through all Scotland: either of which is sufficient to
prooue Scotland to be then vnder his dominion.
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Seuerus.
Seuerus, by birth a Romane, but in bloud a Briton (as some thinke) and
the lineall heire of the bodie of Androgeus sonne of Lud, & nephue of
Cassibelane, was shortlie after emperour & king of Britons, in whose
time the people to whom his ancestor Marius gaue the land of Cathnesse
in Scotland, conspired with the Scots, & receiued them from the Iles
into Scotland. But herevpon this Seuerus came into Scotland, and méeting
with their faith and false harts togither, droue them all out of the
maine land into Iles, the vttermost bounds of all great Britaine. But
notwithstanding this glorious victorie, the Britons considering their
seruitude to the Romans, imposed by treason of Androgeus, ancestor to
this Seuerus, began to hate him, whome yet they had no time to loue, and
who in their defense and suertie had slaine of the Scots and their
confederats in one battell thirtie thousand: but such was the
consideration of the common sort in those daies, whose malice no time
could diminish, nor iust desert appease.
Bassianus.
Antoninus Bassianus borne of a Briton woman, and Geta borne by a Romane
woman, were the sonnes of this Seuerus, who after the death of their
father, by the contrarie voices of their people, contended for the
crowne. Few Britons held with Bassianus, fewer Romans with Geta: but the
greater number with neither of both. In the end Geta was slaine, and
Bassianus remained emperour, against whom Carautius rebelled, who gaue
vnto the Scots, Picts, and Scithians, the countrie of Cathnesse in
Scotland, which they afterward inhabited, whereby his seison thereof
appeareth.
Coill.
Coill, descended of the bloud of the ancient kings of this land, was
shortlie after king of the Britons, whose onelie daughter and heire
called Helen, was married vnto Constantius a Romane, who daunted the
rebellion of all parts of great Britaine; and after the death of this
Coill was in the right of his wife king thereof, and reigned in his
state ouer them thirtéene or fourtéene yeares.
Constantine.
Constantine the sonne of this Constance, and Helen, was next king of
Britons, by the right of his mother, who passing to Rome to receiue the
empire thereof, deputed one Octauius king of Wales, and duke of the
Gewisses (which some expound to be afterward called west Saxons) to haue
the gouernment of this dominion. But abusing the kings innocent
goodnesse, this Octauius defrauded this trust, and tooke vpon him the
crowne. For which traitorie albeit he was once vanquished by Leonine
Traheron, great vncle to Constantine: yet after the death of this
Traheron, he preuailed againe, and vsurped ouer all Britaine.
Constantine being now emperor sent Maximius his kinsman hither (in
processe of time) to destroie the same Octauius, who in singular battell
discomfited him. Wherevpon this Maximius, as well by the consent of
great Constantine, as by the election of all the Britons, for that he
was a Briton in bloud, was made king or rather vicegerent of Britaine.
This Maximius made warre vpon the Scots and Scithians within Britaine,
and ceassed not vntill he had slaine Eugenius their king, and expelled
and driuen them out of the whole limits and bounds of Britaine. Finallie
he inhabited all Scotland with Britons, no man, woman, nor child of the
Scotish nation suffered to remaine within it, which (as their Hector
Boetius saith) was for their rebellion; and rebellion properlie could it
not be, except they had béene subiects. He suffered the Picts also to
remaine his subiects, who made solemne othes to him, neuer after to
erect anie peculiar king of their owne nation, but to remaine vnder the
old empire of the onelie king of Britaine. I had once an epistle by
Leland exemplified (as he saith) out of a verie ancient record which
beareth title of Helena vnto hir sonne Constantine, and entreth after
this manner; "Domino semper Augusto filio Constantino, mater Helena
semper Augusta, &c." And now it repenteth me that I did not exemplifie
and conueigh it into this treatise whilest I had his books. For thereby
I might haue had great light for the estate of this present discourse:
but as then I had no mind to haue trauelled in this matter;
neuerthelesse, if hereafter it come againe to light I would wish it were
reserued. It followeth on also in this maner (as it is translated out of
the Gréeke) "Veritatem sapientis animus non recusat, nec fides recta
aliquando patitur quamcunque iacturam, &c."
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About fiue and fourtie yeares after this (which was long time after the
death of this Maximius) with the helpe of Gouan or Gonan and Melga, the
Scots newlie arriued in Albania, and there created one Fergus the second
of that name to be there king. But bicause they were before banished the
continent land, they crowned him king on their aduenture in Argile, in
the fatall chaire of marble, the yéere of our Lord, foure hundred and
two and twentie, as they themselues doo write.
Maximian.
Maximian sonne of Leonine Traheron, brother to king Coill, and vncle to
Helene, was by lineall succession next king of Britons: but to appease
the malice of Dionothus king of Wales, who also claimed the kingdome, he
married Othilia eldest daughter of Dionothus, and afterwards assembled a
great power of Britons, and entered Albania, inuading Gallowaie, Mers,
Annandale, Pentland, Carrike, Kill, and Cuningham, and in battell slue
both this Fergus then king of Scots, and Durstus the king of Picts, and
exiled all their people out of the continent land: wherevpon the few
number of Scots then remaining a liue, went to Argile, and there made
Eugenius their king. When this Maximian had thus obteined quietnesse in
Britaine, he departed with his cousine Conan Meridocke into Armorica,
where they subdued the king, and depopulated the countrie, which he gaue
to Conan his cousine, to be afterward inhabited by Britons, by the name
of Britaine the lesse: and hereof this realme tooke name of Britaine the
great, which name by consent of forren writers it keepeth vnto this
daie.
After the death of Maximian, dissention being mooued betweene the nobles
of Britaine, the Scots swarmed togither againe, and came to the wall of
Adrian, where (this realme being diuided in manie factions) they
ouercame one. And herevpon their Hector Boetius (as an hen that for
laieng of one eg, will make a great cakeling) solemnlie triumphing for a
conquest before the victorie, alledgeth that hereby the Britons were
made tributaries to the Scots, and yet he confesseth that they won no
more land, by that supposed conquest, but the same portion betwéene them
and Humber, which in the old partitions before was annexed to Albania.
It is hard to be beléeued, that such a broken nation as the Scots at
that time were, returning from banishment within foure yeares before,
and since in battell loosing both their kings, and the great number of
their best men, to be thus able to make a conquest of great Britaine;
and verie vnlikelie if they had conquered it, they would haue left the
hot sunne of the south parts, to dwell in the cold snow in Scotland.
Incredible it is, that if they had conquered it, they would not haue
deputed officers in it, as in cases of conquest behooueth. And it is
beyond all beliefe, that great Britaine, or any other countrie, should
be woon without the comming of anie enimie into it: as they did not, but
taried finallie at the same wall of Adrian, whereof I spake before.
But what need I speake of these defenses, when the same Boecius scantlie
trusteth his owne beliefe in this tale. For he saieth that Galfride, and
sundrie other authentike writers, diuerslie varie from this part of his
storie, wherein his owne thought accuseth his conscience of vntruth:
herein also he further forgetting how it behooueth a lier to be mindfull
of his assertion, in the fourth chapter next following, wholie bewraieth
himselfe, saieng that the confederat kings of Scots and Picts, vpon
ciuill warres betwéene the Britons (which then followed) hoped shortlie
to inioie all the land of great Britaine, from beyond Humber vnto the
fresh sea, which hope had bene vaine, and not lesse than void, if it had
béene their owne by anie conquest before.
Constantine of Britaine, descended from Conan king thereof, cousine of
Brutes bloud to this Maximian, and his neerest heire was next king of
Britaine; he immediatlie pursued the Scots with wars, and shortlie in
battell slue their king Dongard, in the first yeare of his reigne,
whereby he recouered Scotland out of their hands, and tooke all the
holdes thereof into his owne possessions. Vortiger shortlie after
obteined the crowne of Britaine, against whom the Scots newlie rebelled:
for the repressing whereof (mistrusting the Britons to hate him for
sundrie causes, as one that to auoid the smoke dooth oft fall into the
fire) receiued Hengest a Saxon, and a great number of his countriemen,
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with whom and a few Britons he entred Scotland & ouercame them,
wherevpon they tooke the Iles, which are their common refuge. He gaue
also much of Scotland, as Gallowaie, Pentland, Mers and Annandale, with
sundrie other lands to this Hengest and his people to inhabit, which
they did accordinglie inioie. But when this Hengest in processe of time
thirsted after the whole kingdome of the south, he was banished, and yet
afterward being restored, he conspired with the Scots against
Aurilambrose the sonne of Constantine, the iust inheritor of this whole
dominion. But his vntruth and theirs were both recompensed togither, for
Some thinke the Seimors to come from this man by lineall
descent and I suppose no lesse.
he was taken prisoner by Eldulph de Samor a noble man of Britaine, and
his head for his traitorie striken off at the commandement of
Aurilambrose. In the field the Scots were vanquished: but Octa the sonne
of Hengest was receiued to mercie, to whome and his people this
Aurilambrose gaue the countrie of Gallowaie in Scotland, for which they
became his subiects. And hereby appeareth that Scotland was then againe
reduced into his hands.
Vter called also Pendragon, brother to Aurilambrose was next king of the
Britons, against whome, these sworne Saxons now foresworne subiects
(confederate with the Scots) newlie rebelled: but by his power assembled
against them in Gallowaie in Scotland, they were discomfited, & Albania
againe recouered vnto his subiection. Arthur the sonne of this Vter,
begotten before the mariage, but lawfullie borne in matrimonie,
succéeded next to the crowne of great Britaine; whose noble acts, though
manie vulgar fables haue rather stained than commended: yet all the
Scotish writers confesse, that he subdued great Britaine, and made it
tributarie to him, and ouercame the Saxons then scattered as far as
Cathnesse in Scotland: and in all these wars against them, he had the
seruice and obeisance of Scots and Picts. But at the last setting their
féet in the guilefull paths of their predecessors, they rebelled and
besieged the citie of Yorke, Howell king of the lesse Britaine cousine
to king Arthur being therein. But he with an host came thither and
discomfited the Scots, chased them into a marsh, and besieged them there
so long, that they were almost famished: vntill the bishops, abbats, and
men of religion (for as much as they were christened people) besought
him to take them to his mercie and grace, and to grant them a portion of
the same countrie to dwell in vnder euerlasting subiection. Vpon this he
tooke them to his grace, homage and fealtie: and when they were sworne
his subiects and liegemen, he ordeined his kinsman Anguisan to be their
king and gouernour, Vrian king of Iland, and Murefrence king of
Orkeneie. He made an archbishop of Yorke also, whose authoritie extended
through all Scotland.
Finallie, the said Arthur holding his roiall feast at Cairleon, had
there all the kings that were subiects vnto him, among which, Angusian
the said king of Scots did his due seruice and homage, so long as he was
with him for the realme of Scotland, & bare king Arthurs sword afore
him. Malgo shortlie after succéeded in the whole kingdome of great
Britaine, who vpon new resistance made, subdued Ireland, Iland, the
Orchads, Norwaie and Denmarke, and made Ethelfred a Saxon king of
Bernicia, that is, Northumberland, Louthian, and much other land of
Scotland, which Ethelfred by the sword obteined at the hands of the
wilfull inhabitants, and continued true subiect to this Malgo.
Cadwan succéeded in the kingdome of great Britaine, who in defense of
his subiects the Scots, made warre vpon this Ethelfred, but at the last
they agréed, and Cadwan vpon their rebellion gaue all Scotland vnto this
Ethelfred, which he therevpon subdued and inioied: but afterward in the
reigne of Cadwallo that next succeeded in great Britaine, he rebelled.
Whervpon the same Cadwallo came into Scotland, and vpon his treason
reseised the countrie into his owne hands, and hauing with him all the
vicerois of the Saxons, which then inhabited here as his subiects, in
singular battell he slue the same Ethelfred with his owne hands.
Oswald was shortlie after by Cadwallos gift made king of Bernicia, and
he as subiect to Cadwallo, and by his commandement discomfited the Scots
and Picts, and subdued all Scotland. Oswie the brother of this Oswald,
was by the like gift of Cadwallo, made next king of Bernicia, and he by
like commandement newlie subdued the Scots and Picts, and held them in
that obeisance to this Cadwallow, during eight and twentie yeares. Thus
Cadwallo reigned in the whole monarchie of great Britaine, hauing all
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the seuen kings thereof, as well Saxons as others his subiects: for
albeit the number of Saxons from time to time greatlie increased, yet
were they alwaies either at the first expelled, or else made tributarie
to the onelie kings of Britons for the time being, as all their owne
writers doo confesse.
Cadwallader was next king of the whole great Britaine, he reigned twelue
yeares ouer all the kings thereof, in great peace and tranquillitie: and
then vpon the lamentable death of his subiects, which died of sundrie
diseases innumerablie, he departed into little Britaine. His sonne and
cousine Iuor and Iue, being expelled out of England also by the Saxons,
went into Wales, where among the Britons they and their posteritie
remained princes. Vpon this great alteration, and warres being through
the whole dominion betwéene the Britons and Saxons, the Scots thought
time to slip the collar of obedience, and therevpon entred in league
with Charles then king of France, establishing it in this wise.
1 "The iniurie of Englishmen doone to anie of these people, shall be
perpetuallie holden common to them both.
2 "When Frenchmen be inuaded by Englishmen, the Scots shall send their
armie in defense of France, so that they be supported with monie and
vittels by the French.
3 "When Scots be inuaded by Englishmen, the Frenchmen shall come vpon
their owne expenses, to their support and succour.
4 "None of the people shall take peace or truce with Englishmen, without
the aduise of other, &c."
Nicholas Adams.
Manie disputable opinions may be had of warre without the praising of
it, as onelie admittable by inforced necessitie, and to be vsed for
peace sake onelie, where here the Scots sought warre for the loue of
warre onelie. For their league giueth no benefit to themselues, either
in frée traffike of their owne commodities, or benefit of the French, or
other priuilege to the people of both. What discommoditie riseth by
loosing the intercourse and exchange of our commodities (being in
necessaries more aboundant than France) the Scots féele, and we
perfectlie know. What ruine of their townes, destruction of countries,
slaughter of both peoples, haue by reason of this bloudie league
chanced, the histories be lamentable to read, and horrible among
Christian men to be remembred: but God gaue the increase according to
their séed, for as they did hereby sowe dissention, so did they shortlie
after reape a bloudie slaughter and confusion. For Alpine their king,
possessing a light mind that would be lost with a little wind, hoped by
this league shortlie to subdue all great Britaine, and to that end not
onelie rebelled in his owne kingdome, but also vsurped vpon the kingdome
of Picts. Whervpon Edwine king of England, made one Brudeus king of
Picts, whom he sent into Scotland with a great power, where in battell
he tooke this Alpine king of Scots prisoner, and discomfited his people.
And this Alpine being their king found subiect and rebell, his head was
striken off at a place in Scotland, which thereof is to this daie called
Pasalpine, that is to saie, the head of Alpine. And this was the first
effect of their French league.
Osbright king of England, with Ella his subiect, and a great number of
Britons and Saxons shortlie after, for that the Scots had of themselues
elected a new king, entered Scotland, and ceassed not his war against
them, vntill their king and people fled into the Iles, with whome at the
last vpon their submission, peace was made in this wise.
The water of Frith shall be march betwéene Scots and Englishmen in the
east parts, and shall be named the Scotish sea.
The water of Cluide to Dunbriton, shall be march in the west parts
betwéene the Scots and Britons. This castell was before called Alcluide,
but now Dunbriton, that is to say, the castle of Britons, and sometimes
it was destroied by the Danes. So the Britons had all the lands from
Sterling to the Ireland seas, and from the water of Frith & Cluide to
Cumber, with all the strengths and commodities thereof: and the
Englishmen had the lands betwéene Sterling and Northumberland. Thus was
Cluide march betwéene the Scots and the Britons on the one side, and the
water of Frith named the Scotish sea, march betwéene them and Englishmen
on the other side, and Sterling common march to thrée people, Britons,
Englishmen, and Scots, howbeit king Osbright had the castle of Stirling,
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where first he caused to be coined Sterling monie. The Englishmen also
builded a bridge of stone, for passage ouer the water of Frith, in the
middest whereof they made a crosse, vnder which were written these
verses:
I am free march, as passengers may ken,
To Scots, to Britons, and Englishmen.
Not manie yeares after this, Hinguar and Hubba, two Danes, with a great
number of people, arriued in Scotland, and slue Constantine, whom
Osbright had before made king: wherevpon Edulfe or Ethelwulfe, then king
of England, assembled his power against Hinguar and Hubba, and in one
battell slue them both; but such of their people as would remaine and
become christians, he suffered to tarie: the rest he banished or put to
death, &c.
This Ethelwulfe granted the Peter pence, of which albeit Peter & Paule
had little need and lesse right: yet the paiment thereof continued in
this realme euer after vntill now of late yeares. But the Scots euer
since vnto this daie haue, and yet doo paie it, by reason of that grant,
which prooueth them to be then vnder his obeisance.
Alured or Alfred succéeded in the kingdome of England, and reigned
noblie ouer the whole monarchie of great Britaine: he made lawes, that
persons excommunicated should be disabled to sue or claime anie
propertie; which law Gregour, whome this Alured had made king of Scots,
obeied; and the same law as well in Scotland as in England is holden to
this daie, which also prooueth him to be high lord of Scotland.
This Alured constreined Gregour king of Scots also to breake the league
with France, for generallie he concluded with him, and serued him in all
his warres, as well against Danes as others, not reseruing or making
anie exception of the former league with France.
The said Alured, after the death of Gregour, had the like seruice and
obeisance of Donald king of Scots with fiue thousand horssemen, against
one Gurmond a Dane that then infested the realme, and this Donald died
in this faith and obeisance with Alured.
Edward the first of that name called Chifod sonne of this Alured
succéeded his father, and was the next king of England: against whome
Sithrijc a Dane and the Scots conspired; but they were subdued, and
Constantine their king brought to obeisance. He held the realme of
Scotland also of king Edward, and this dooth Marian their owne
countrieman a Scot confesse: beside Roger Houeden, and William of
Malmesberie.
In the yeare of our Lord 923, the same king Edward was president and
gouernour of all the people of England, Cumberland, Scots, Danes, and
Britons.
King Athelstane in like sort conquered Scotland, and as he laie in his
tents beside Yorke, whilest the warres lasted, the king of Scots feined
himselfe to be a minstrell, and harped before him onelie to espie his
ordinance and his people. But being (as their writers confesse)
corrupted with monie, he sold his faith and false heart together to the
Danes, and aided them against king Athelstane at sundrie times. Howbeit
he met with all their vntruthes at Broningfield in the west countrie, as
is mentioned in the ninth chapter of the first booke of this
description, where he discomfited the Danes, and slue Malcolme deputie
in that behalfe to the king of Scots: in which battell the Scots
confesse themselues to haue lost more people than were remembred in anie
age before. Then Athelstane following his good lucke, went throughout
all Scotland and wholie subdued it, and being in possession thereof,
gaue land there lieng in Annandale by his deed, the copie wherof dooth
follow:
"I king Athelstane, giues vnto Paulam, Oddam and Roddam, als good and
als faire, as euer they mine were, and thereto witnesse Mauld my wife."
By which course words, not onelie appeareth the plaine simplicitie of
mens dooings in those daies: but also a full proofe that he was then
seized of Scotland. At the last also he receiued homage of Malcolme king
of Scots: but for that he could not be restored to his whole kingdome,
he entered into religion, and there shortlie after died.
Then Athelstane, for his better assurance of that countrie there after,
thought it best to haue two stringes to the bowe of their obedience, and
therefore not onelie constituted one Malcolme to be their king, but also
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appointed one Indulph sonne of Constantine the third, to be called
prince of Scotland, to whome he gaue much of Scotland: and for this
Malcolme did homage to Athelstane.
Edmund brother of Athelstane succéeded next king of England, to whome
this Indulph then king of Scots not onelie did homage, but also serued
him with ten thousand Scots, for the expulsion of the Danes out of the
realme of England.
Edred or Eldred brother to this Edmund succéeded next king of England:
Some referre this to an Edward.
he not onelie receiued the homage of Irise then king of Scots, but also
the homage of all the barons of Scotland.
Edgar the sonne of Edmund, brother of Athelstane, being now of full age,
was next king of England: he reigned onelie ouer the whole monarchie of
Britaine, and receiued homage of Keneth king of Scots for the kingdome
of Scotland, and made Malcolme prince thereof.
This Edgar gaue vnto the same Keneth the countrie of Louthian in
Scotland, which was before seized into the hands of Osbright king of
England for their rebellion, as is before declared. He inioined Keneth
their said king also once in euerie yéere at certeine principall feasts
(whereat the king did vse to weare his crowne) to repaire vnto him into
England for the making of lawes: which in those daies was doone by the
noble men or péeres according to the order of France at this daie. He
allowed also sundrie lodgings in England, to him and his successours,
whereat to lie, and refresh themselues in their iourneies, whensoeuer
they should come vp to doo their homages: and finallie a péece of ground
lieng beside the new palace of Westminster, vpon which this Keneth
builded a house, that by him and his posteritie was inioied vntill the
reigne of king Henrie the second. In whose time, vpon the rebellion of
William king of Scots, it was resumed into the king of Englands hand.
The house is decaied, but the ground where it stood is called Scotland
to this daie.
Lawfull age and wardship of heires.
Moreouer, Edgar made this law, that no man should succéed to his
patrimonie or inheritance holden by knights seruice, vntill he
accomplished the age of one and twentie yéeres: because by intendment
vnder that age, he should not be able in person to serue his king and
countrie according to the tenor of his deed, and the condition of his
purchase. This law was receiued by the same Keneth in Scotland; and as
well there as in England is obserued to this daie: which prooueth also
that Scotland was then vnder his obeisance.
In the yeere of our Lord 974, Kinald king of Scots, and Malcolme king of
Cumberland, Macon king of Man and the Iles, Duuenall king of Southwales,
Siferth and Howell kings of the rest of Wales, Jacob or James of
Gallowaie, & Jukill of Westmerland did homage to king Edgar at Chester.
And on the morrow going by water to the monasterie of saint Iohns to
seruice, and returning home againe: the said Edgar sitting in a barge,
and stirring the same vpon the water of Dée, made the said kings to row
the barge, saieng that his successors might well be ioifull to haue the
prerogatiue of so great honour, and the superioritie of so manie mightie
princes to be subiect vnto their monarchie.
Edward, the sonne of this Edgar, was next king of England, in whose time
this Keneth king of Scots caused Malcolme king of Scotland to be
poisoned. Wherevpon king Edward made warre against him, which ceased not
vntill this Keneth submitted himselfe, and offered to receiue him for
prince of Scotland, whome king Edward would appoint. Herevpon king
Edward proclamed one Malcolme to be prince of Scotland, who immediatlie
came into England, and there did homage vnto the same king Edward.
Etheldred, brother of this Edward succeeded next ouer England, against
whome Swaine king of Denmarke conspired with this last Malcolme then
king of Scots. But shortlie after, this Malcolme sorrowfullie submitted
himselfe into the defense of Etheldred: who considering how that which
could not be amended, must onelie be repented, benignlie receiued him.
By helpe of whose seruice at last Etheldred recouered his realme againe
out of the hands of Swaine, and reigned ouer the whole monarchie eight
and thirtie yéeres.
Edmund surnamed Ironside, sonne of this Etheldred, was next king of
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England, in whose time Canutus a Dane inuaded the realme with much
crueltie. But at the last he married with Emme sometime wife vnto
Etheldred and mother of this Edmund. Which Emme, as arbitratrix betweene
hir naturall loue to the one, and matrimoniall dutie to the other,
procured such amitie betwéene them in the end, that Edmund was contented
to diuide the realme with Canutus: and keeping to himselfe all England
on this side Humber, gaue all the rest beyond Humber, with the
seigniorie of Scotland to this Canutus. Wherevpon Malcolme then king of
Scots (after a little accustomable resistance) did homage to the same
Canutus for the kingdome of Scotland. Thus the said Canutus held the
same ouer of this Edmund king of England by the like seruices, so long
as they liued togither. This Canutus in memorie of this victorie, and
glorie of his seigniorie ouer the Scots, commanded Malcolme their king
to build a church in Buchquhan in Scotland, (where a field betweene him
and them was fought) to be dedicated to Olauus patrone of Norwaie and
Denmarke, which church was by the same Malcolme accordinglie performed.
Edward called the Confessour, sonne of Etheldred, and brother to Edmund
Ironside, was afterward king of England: he tooke from Malcolme king of
Scots his life and his kingdome, and made Malcolme sonne to the king of
Cumberland and Northumberland king of Scots, who did him homage and
fealtie.
This Edward perused the old lawes of the realme, and somewhat added to
some of them: as to the law of Edgar for the wardship of the lands
vntill the heire should accomplish the age of one and twentie yeeres. He
added, that the marriage of such heire should also belong to the lord of
To whome the marriage of the ward perteineth.
whom the same land was holden. Also, that euerie woman marrieng a
freeman, should (notwithstanding she had no children by that husband)
enioie the third part of his inheritance during hir life: with manie
other lawes which the same Malcolme king of Scots obeied, and which as
well by them in Scotland, as by vs in England be obserued to this day,
and directlie prooueth the whole to be then vnder his obeisance.
By reason of this law, Malcolme the sonne of Duncane next inheritor to
the crowne of Scotland, being within age, was by the nobles of Scotland
deliuered as ward to the custodie also of king Edward. During whose
minoritie, one Makebeth a Scot traitorouslie vsurped the crowne of
Scotland. Against whome the said Edward made warre, in which the said
Mackbeth was ouercome and slaine. Wherevpon the said Malcolme was
crowned king of Scots at Scone, in the eight yeere of the reigne of king
Edward aforesaid. This Malcolme also by tenor of the said new law of
wardship, was married vnto Margaret the daughter of Edward sonne of
Edmund Ironside and Agatha, by the disposition of the same king Edward,
and at his full age did homage to this king Edward the Confessour for
the kingdome of Scotland.
Edward the Confessour.
Moreouer, Edward of England, hauing no issue of his bodie, and
mistrusting that Harald the son of Goodwine, descended of the daughter
of Harald Harefoot the Dane, would vsurpe the crowne, if he should leaue
it to his cousine Edgar Eatling (being then within age) and partlie by
the petition of his subiects, who before had sworne neuer to receiue
anie kings ouer them of the Danish nation, did by his substantiall will
in writing (as all our clergie writers affirme) demise the crowne of
great Britaine vnto William Bastard, then duke of Normandie, and to his
heires, constituting him his heire testamentarie. Also there was
proximitie in bloud betwéene them: for Emme daughter of Richard duke of
Normandie was wife vnto Etheldred, on whom he begat Alured and this
Edward: and this William was son of Robert sonne of Richard, brother of
the whole bloud to the same Emme. Whereby appeareth that this William
was heire by title, and not by conquest, albeit that partlie to
extinguish the mistrust of other titles, and partlie for the glorie of
his victorie, he chalenged in the end, the name of a conquerour, and
hath béene so written euer since the time of his arriuall.
William Bastard.
Furthermore, this William, called the Bastard and the Conquerour,
supposed not his conquest perfect till he had likewise subdued the
Scots. Wherfore to bring the Scots to iust obeisance after his
coronation, as heire testamentarie to Edward the Confessour; he entred
Scotland, where after a little resistance made by the inhabitants, the
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said Malcolme then their king did homage to him at Abirnethie in
Scotland for the kingdome of Scotland, as to his superiour also by meane
of his late conquest.
William Rufus.
William surnamed Rufus, sonne to this William called the Conquerour,
succéeded next in the throne of England, to whome the said Malcolme king
of Scots did like homage for the whole kingdome of Scotland. But
afterward he rebelled, and was by this William Rufus slaine in plaine
field. Wherevpon the Scotishmen did choose one Donald or Dunwall to be
their king. But this William Rufus deposed him, and created Dunkane
sonne of Malcolme to be their king, who did like homage to him.
Finallie, this Dunkane was slaine by the Scots, and Dunwall restored,
who once againe by this William Rufus was deposed; and Edgar son of
Malcolme, and brother to the last Malcolme, was by him made their king,
who did like homage for Scotland to this William Rufus.
Henrie I.
Henrie called Beauclerke the sonne of William called the Conquerour,
after the death of his brother William Rufus, succéeded to the crowne of
England, to whome the same Edgar king of Scots did homage for Scotland:
this Henrie Beauclerke maried Mawd the daughter of Malcolme K. of Scots,
and by hir had issue Mawd afterward empresse.
Alexander the sonne of Malcolme brother to this Mawd was next king of
Scots, he did like homage for the kingdome of Scotland to this Henrie
the first, as Edgar had doone before him.
Mawd.
Mawd called the empresse, daughter and heire to Henrie Beauclerke and
Mawd his wife, receiued homage of Dauid, brother to hir and to this
Alexander next king of Scots, before all the temporall men of England
for the kingdome of Scotland. This Mawd the empresse gaue vnto Dauid in
the marriage, Mawd the daughter and heire of Voldosius earle of
Huntingdon & Northumberland. And herein their euasion appeareth, by
which they allege that their kings homages were made for the earledome
of Huntingdon. For this Dauid was the first that of their kings was
earle of Huntingdon, which was since all the homages of their kings
before recited, and at the time of this mariage, & long after the said
Alexander his brother was king of Scots, doing the homage aforesaid to
Henrie Beauclerke son to the aforesaid ladie, of whome I find this
epitaph worthie to be remembred:
Ortu magna, viro maior, sed maxima partu,
Hîc iacet Henrici filia, sponsa, parens.
In the yéere of our Lord 1136, and first yéere of the reigne of king
Stephan, the said Dauid king of Scots being required to doo his homage,
refused it: for so much as he had doone homage to Mawd the empresse
before time; notwithstanding the sonne of the said Dauid did homage to
king Stephan.
Henrie 2.
Henrie called Fitz empresse, the sonne of Mawd the empresse daughter of
Mawd, daughter of Malcolme king of Scots, was next king of England. He
receiued homage for Scotland of Malcolme sonne of Henrie, sonne of the
said Dauid their last king. Which Malcolme after this homage attended
vpon the same king Henrie in his warres against Lewis then king of
France. Whereby appeareth that their French league was neuer renewed
after the last diuision of their countrie by Osbright king of England.
But after these warres finished with the French king, this Malcolme
being againe in Scotland rebelled: wherevpon king Henrie immediatlie
seized Huntingdon and Northumberland into his owne hands by confiscation,
and made warres vpon him in Scotland: during which the same Malcolme
died without issue of his bodie.
William brother of this Malcolme was next king of Scots, he with all the
Because they were taken from him before.
nobles of Scotland (which could not be now for anie earledome) did
homage to the sonne of Henrie the second, his father. Also the earledome
of Huntingdon was (as ye haue heard) before this forfeited by Malcolme
his brother, and neuer after restored to the crowne of Scotland.
This William did afterward attend vpon the same Henrie the second, in
his warres in Normandie against the French king (notwithstanding their
French league) and then being licenced to depart home in the tenth of
this prince, and vpon the fifteenth of Februarie he returned, and vpon
the sixtéenth of October did homage to him for the realme of Scotland.
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In token also of his perpetuall subjection to the crowne of England, he
offered vp his cloake, his saddle, and his speare at the high altar in
Yorke: wherevpon he was permitted to depart home into Scotland, where
immediatlie he mooued cruell warre in Northumberland against the same
king Henrie, being as yet in Normandie. But God tooke the defense of
king Henries part, and deliuered the same William king of Scots into the
hands of a few Englishmen, who brought him prisoner to king Henrie into
Normandie in the twentith yeere of his reigne. But at the last, at the
sute of Dauid his brother, Richard bishop of saint Andrews, and other
bishops and lords, he was put to this fine for the amendment of his
trespasse; to wit, to paie ten thousand pounds sterling, and to
surrender all his title to the earldome of Huntingdon, Cumberland, &
Northumberland into the hands of king Henrie, which he did in all things
accordinglie, sealing his charters thereof with the great scale of
Scotland, and signets of his nobilitie yet to be seene: wherein it was
also comprised, that he and his successours should hold the realme of
Scotland of the king of England and his successours for euer. And
herevpon he once againe did homage to the same king Henrie, which now
could not be for the earledome of Huntingdon, the right whereof was
alreadie by him surrendered. And for the better assurance of this faith
also, the strengths of Berwike, Edenborough, Roxborough, and Striueling
were deliuered into the hands of our king Henrie of England, which their
owne writers confesse. But Hector Boetius saith, that this trespasse was
amended by fine of twentie thousand pounds sterling, and that the
erledome of Huntingdon, Cumberland, and Northumberland were deliuered as
morgage into the hands of king Henrie, vntill other ten thousand pounds
sterling should be to him paid, which is so farre from truth, as Hector
was (while he liued) from well meaning to our countrie. But if we grant
that it is true, yet prooueth he not that the monie was paid, nor the
land otherwise redéemed, or euer after came to anie Scotish kings hands.
And thus it appeareth that the earledome of Huntingdon was neuer
occasion of the homages of the Scotish kings to the kings of England,
either before this time or after.
This was doone 1175. Moreouer I read this note hereof gathered out of
Robertus Montanus or Montensis that liued in those daies, and was (as I
take it) "confessor to king Henrie. The king of Scots dooth homage to
king Henrie for the kingdome of Scotland, and is sent home againe, his
bishops also did promise to doo the like to the archbishop of Yorke, and
to acknowledge themselues to be of his prouince and iurisdiction. By
vertue also of this composition the said Robert saith, that Rex Angliæ
dabat honores, episcopatus, abbatias, & alias dignitates in Scotia, vel
saltem eius consilio dabantur, that is, The king of England gaue honors,
bishopriks, abbatships, and other dignities in Scotland, or at the
leastwise they were not giuen without his aduise and counsell."
At this time Alexander bishop of Rome (supposed to haue generall
iurisdiction ecclesiasticall through christendome) established the whole
cleargie of Scotland (according to the old lawes) vnder the iurisdiction
of the archbishop of Yorke.
In the yeare of our Lord 1185, in the moneth of August, at Cairleill,
Rouland Talmant lord of Galwaie, did homage and fealtie to the said king
Henrie with all that held of him.
In the two and twentith yeare of the reigne of king Henrie the second,
Gilbert sonne of Ferguse prince of Galwaie, did homage and fealtie to
the said king Henrie, and left Dunecan his sonne in hostage for
conseruation of his peace.
Richard surnamed Cœur de Lion, because of his stoutnesse, and sonne
of this Henrie was next king of England, to whome the same William king
of Scots did homage at Canturburie for the whole kingdome of Scotland.
This king Richard was taken prisoner by the duke of Ostrich, for whose
redemption the whole realme was taxed at great summes of monie vnto the
which this William king of Scots (as a subject) was contributorie, and
paied two thousand markes sterling.
In the yeare of our Lord 1199, Iohn king of England sent to William king
of Scots, to come and doo his homage, which William came to Lincolne in
the moneth of December the same yeare, and did his homage vpon an hill
in the presence of Hubert archbishop of Canturburie, and of all the
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people there assembled, and therevnto tooke his oth and was sworne vpon
the crosse of the said Hubert: also he granted by his charter confirmed,
that he should haue the mariage of Alexander his sonne, as his liegeman,
alwaies to hold of the king of England: promising moreouer that he the
said king William and his sonne Alexander, should keepe and hold faith
and allegiance to Henrie sonne of the said king Iohn, as to their chiefe
lord against all maner of men that might liue and die.
Also whereas William king of Scots had put Iohn bishop of saint Andrew
out of his bishoprike, pope Clement wrote to Henrie king of England,
that he should mooue and induce the same William; and if néed required
by his roiall power and prerogatiue ouer that nation, to compell him to
leaue his rancor against the said bishop, and suffer him to haue and
occupie his said bishoprike againe.
In the yeare of our Lord 1216, and fiue & twentith of the reigne of
Henrie, sonne to king Iohn, the same Henrie and the quéene were at Yorke
at the feast of Christmasse, for the solemnization of a marriage made in
the feast of saint Stephan the martyr the same yeare, betwéene Alexander
king of Scots, and Margaret the kings daughter, and there the said
Alexander did homage to Henrie king of England for all the realme of
Scotland.
In buls of diuerse popes were admonitions giuen to the kings of Scots,
as appeareth by that of Gregorie the fift and Clement his successor,
that they should obserue and trulie kéepe all such appointments, as had
béene made betwéene the kings of England and Scotland. And that the
kings of Scotland should still hold the realme of Scotland of the kings
of England, vpon paine of cursse and interdiction.
After the death of Alexander king of Scots, Alexander his sonne, being
nine yeares of age, was by the lawes of Edgar, in ward to king Henrie
the third, & by the nobles of Scotland brought to Yorke, and there
deliuered vnto him. During whose minoritie king Henrie gouerned
Scotland, and to subdue a commotion in this realme, vsed the aid of fiue
thousand Scotishmen. But king Henrie died during the nonage of this
Alexander, whereby he receiued not his homage, which by reason and law
was respited vntill his full age of one and twentie yeares.
Edward the first after the conquest, sonne of this Henrie was next king
of England; immediatlie after whose coronation, Alexander king of Scots,
being then of full age, did homage to him for Scotland at Westminster,
swearing (as all the rest did) after this maner.
"I. D. N. king of Scots shall be true and faithfull vnto you lord E. by
the grace of God king of England, the noble and superior lord of the
kingdome of Scotland, and vnto you I make my fidelitie for the same
kingdome, the which I hold and claime to hold of you. And I shall beare
you my faith and fidelitie of life and lim, and worldlie honour against
all men, faithfullie I shall knowlege and shall doo you seruice due vnto
you of the kingdome of Scotland aforesaid, as God me so helpe and these
holie euangelies."
This Alexander king of Scots died, leauing one onelie daughter called
Margaret for his heire, who before had maried Hanigo, sonne to Magnus
king of Norwaie, which daughter also shortlie after died, leauing one
onelie daughter hir heire, of the age of two yeares, whose custodie and
mariage by the lawes of king Edgar, and Edward the confessor, belonged
to Edward the first: whervpon the nobles of Scotland were commanded by
our king Edward to send into Norwaie, to conueie this yoong queene into
England to him, whome he intended to haue maried to his sonne Edward:
and so to haue made a perfect vnion long wished for betwéene both
realmes. Herevpon their nobles at that time considering the same
tranquillitie that manie of them haue since refused, stood not vpon
shifts and delaies of minoritie nor contempt, but most gladlie
consented, and therevpon sent two noble men of Scotland into Norwaie,
for hir to be brought to this king Edward, but she died before their
comming thither, and therefore they required nothing but to inioie the
lawfull liberties that they had quietlie possessed in the last king
Alexanders time.
After the death of this Margaret, the Scots were destitute of anie heire
to the crowne from this Alexander their last king, at which time this
Edward descended from the bodie of Mawd daughter of Malcolme sometime
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king of Scots, being then in the greatest broile of his warres with
France, minded not to take the possession of that kingdome in his owne
right, but was contented to establish Balioll to be king thereof, the
weake title betwéene him, Bruse, & Hastings, being by the humble
petition of all the realme of Scotland cōmitted to the determination
of king Edward, wherein by autentike writing they confessed the
superioritie of the realme to remaine in king Edward, sealed with the
seales of foure bishops, seuen earles, and twelue barons of Scotland,
and which shortlie after was by the whole assent of the three estates of
Scotland, in their solemne parlement confessed and enacted accordinglie,
as most euidentlie dooth appeare.
The Balioll in this wise made king of Scotland, did immediatlie make his
homage and fealtie at Newcastell vpon saint Stéeuens daie (as did
likewise all the lords of Scotland, each one setting his hand to the
composition in writing) to king Edward of England for the kingdome of
Scotland: but shortlie after defrauding the benigne goodnesse of his
superiour, he rebelled, and did verie much hurt in England. Herevpon
king Edward inuaded Scotland, seized into his hands the greater part of
the countrie, and tooke all the strengths thereof. Whervpon Balioll king
of Scots came vnto him to Mauntrosse in Scotland with a white wand in
his hand, and there resigned the crowne of Scotland, with all his right,
title, and interest to the same, into the hands of king Edward, and
thereof made his charter in writing, dated and sealed the fourth yeare
of his reigne. All the nobles and gentlemen of Scotland also repaired to
Berwike, and did homage and fealtie to king Edward, there becomming his
subiects. For the better assurance of whose oths also, king Edward kept
all the strengths and holdes of Scotland in his owne hands; and herevpon
all their lawes, processes, all iudgements, gifts of assises and others,
passed vnder the name and authoritie of king Edward. Leland touching the
same rehearsall, writeth thereof in this maner.
"In the yeare of our Lord 1295, the same Iohn king of Scots, contrarie
to his faith and allegiance rebelled against king Edward, and came into
England, and burnt and slue without all modestie and mercie. Wherevpon
king Edward with a great host went to Newcastell vpon Tine, passed the
water of Twéed, besieged Berwike, and got it. Also he wan the castell of
Dunbar, and there were slaine at this brunt 15700 Scots. Then he
proceeded further, and gat the castell of Rokesborow, and the castell of
Edenborow, Striuelin and Gedworth, and his people harried all the land.
In the meane season, the said king Iohn of Scots, considering that he
was not of power to withstand king Edward, sent his letters and besought
him of treatie and peace, which our prince benignlie granted, and sent
to him againe that he should come to the towre of Brechin, and bring
thither the great lords of Scotland with him. The king of England sent
thither Antonie Becke bishop of Durham, with his roiall power, to
conclude the said treatise. And there it was agreed that the said Iohn
and all the Scots should vtterlie submit themselues to the kings will.
And to the end the submission should be performed accordinglie, the king
of Scots laid his sonne in hostage and pledge vnto him. There also he
made his letters sealed with the common seale of Scotland, by the which
he knowledging his simplenes and great offense doone to his lord king
Edward of England, by his full power and frée will yeelded vp all the
land of Scotland, with all the people and homage of the same. Then our
king went foorth to sée the mounteins, and vnderstanding that all was in
quiet and peace, he turned to the abbeie of Scone, which was
The Scots dreame that this was the stone whereon Jacob slept when he
fled into Mesopotamia.
of chanons regular, where he tooke the stone
called the Regall of Scotland, vpon which the kings of that nation were
woont to sit, at the time of their coronations for a throne, & sent it
to the abbeie of Westminster, commanding to make a chaire therof for the
priests that should sing masse at the high altar: which chaire was made,
and standeth yet there at this daie to be séene."
In the yeare of our Lord 1296, the king held his parlement at Berwike:
and there he tooke homage singularlie of diuerse of the lords & nobles
of Scotland. And for a perpetuall memorie of the same, they made their
letters patents sealed with their seales, and then the king of England
made William Warreine earle of Surrie and Southsax lord Warden of
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Scotland, Hugh of Cressingham treasurer, and William Ormesbie iustice of
Scotland, and foorthwith sent king Iohn to the Tower of London, and Iohn
Comin, and the earle Badenauth, the earle of Bohan and other lords into
England to diuerse places on this side of the Trent.
And after that, in the yeare of our Lord 1297, at the feast of
Christmas, the king called before him the said Iohn king of Scots,
although he had committed him to ward: and said that he would burne or
destroie their castels, townes, and lands, if he were not recompensed
for his costs and damages susteined in the warres; but king Iohn and the
other that were in ward, answered that they had nothing, sith their
liues, their deaths, and goods were in his hands. The king vpon that
answer mooued with pitie, granted them their liues; so that they would
doo their homage, and make their oth solenmelie at the high altar (in
the church of the abbeie of Westminster) vpon the eucharist, that they
and euerie of them should hold and keepe true faith, obedience, and
allegiance to the said king Edward and his heires kings of England for
euer. And where the said king of Scots saw the kings banner of England
displaied, he and all his power should draw therevnto. And that neither
he or anie of his from thencefoorth should beare armes against the king
of England or anie of his bloud. Finallie, the king rewarding with great
gifts the said king Iohn and his lords, suffered them to depart. But
they went into Scotland alwaie imagining (notwithstanding this their
submission) how they might oppresse king Edward, and disturbe his
realme. The Scots sent also to the king of France for succour and helpe,
who sent them ships to Berwike furnished with men of armes, the king of
England then being in Flanders.
In the yeare of our Lord 1298, the king went into Scotland with a great
host, and the Scots also assembled in great number, but the king fought
with them at Fawkirke on S. Marie Magdalens daie, where were slaine
thréescore thousand Scots, & William Walleis that was their capteine
fled, who being taken afterward, was hanged, drawen, & quartered at
London, for his trespasses.
After this the Scots rebelled againe, and all the lords of Scotland
This was doone upon the nine & twentith of Ianuarie, 1306.
chose Robert Bruse to be king, except onelie Iohn Commin earle of
Carrike, who would not consent thereto bicause of his oth made to the
king of England. Wherefore Robert Bruse slue him at Dumfrise, and then
was crowned at Schone abbeie. Herevpon the king of England assembled a
great hoast, and rode through all Scotland, discomfited Robert Bruse,
slue eight thousand Scots, & tooke the most part of all the lords of
Scotland, putting the temporall lords to deth bicause they were
forsworne.
Edward borne at Carnaruan sonne of this Edward, was next king of
England, who from the beginning of his reigne enioied Scotland
peaceablie, dooing in all things as is aboue said of king Edward his
father, vntill toward the later end of his reigne, about which time this
Robert Bruse conspired against him, and with the helpe of a few
forsworne Scots, forswore himselfe king of Scots. Herevpon this Edward
with Thomas earle of Lancaster and manie other lords made warre vpon
him, about the feast of Marie Magdalene, the said Bruse and his
partakers being alreadie accurssed by the pope for breaking the truce
that he had established betwixt them. But being infortunate in his first
warres against him, he suffered Edward the sonne of Balioll to proclame
himselfe king of Scots; and neuerthelesse held foorth his warres against
Bruse, before the ending of which he died, as I read.
Edward borne at Windsore sonne of Edward the second was next king of
England, at the age of fifteene yeares, in whose minoritie the Scots
practised with Isabell mother to this Edward, and with Roger Mortimer
earle of the March to haue their homages released: whose good will
therein they obteined, so that for the same release they should paie to
this king Edward thirtie thousand pounds starling, in three yeares next
following, that is to saie, ten thousand pounds starling yeerelie. But
bicause the nobilitie and commons of this realme would not by parlement
consent vnto it, their king being within age, the same release procéeded
not, albeit the Scots ceased not their practises with this quéene and
earle. But before those thrée yeares, in which their monie (if the
bargaine had taken place) should haue béene paied, were expired, our
king Edward inuaded Scotland, and ceassed not the warre, vntill Dauid
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the sonne of Robert le Bruse (then by their election king of Scotland)
absolutelie submitted himselfe vnto him. But for that the said Dauid
Bruse had before by practise of the quéene and the earle of March,
married Iane the sister of this king Edward: he mooued by naturall zeale
to his sister, was contented to giue the realme of Scotland to this
Dauid Bruse, and to the heires that should be begotten of the bodie of
the said Iane (sauing the reuersion and meane homages to this king
Edward and to his owne children) wherewith the same Dauid Bruse was
right well contented, and therevpon immediatlie made his homage for all
the realme of Scotland to him.
Howbeit, shortlie after causelesse conceiuing cause of displeasure, this
Dauid procured to dissolue this same estate tailée, and therevpon not
onelie rebelled in Scotland, but also inuaded England, whilest king
Edward was occupied about his wars in France. But this Dauid was not
onelie expelled England in the end, but also thinking no place a
sufficient defense to his vntruth, of his owne accord fled out of
Scotland: whereby the countries of Annandale, Gallowaie, Mars, Teuidale,
Twedale, and Ethrike were seized into the king of Englands hands, and
new marches set betwéene England and Scotland at Cockburnes path &
Sowtrie hedge. Which when this Dauid went about to recouer againe, his
power was discomfited, and himselfe by a few Englishmen taken & brought
into England, where he remained prisoner eleuen yeares after his said
apprehension.
During this time, king Edward enioied Scotland peaceablie, and then at
the contemplation and wearie suit of his sorowfull sister, wife of this
Dauid, he was contented once againe to restore him to the kingdome of
Scotland. Wherevpon it was concluded, that for this rebellion Dauid
should paie to king Edward, the summe of one hundred thousand markes
starling, and thereto destroie all his holdes and fortresses standing
against the English borders, and further assure the crowne of Scotland
to the children of this king Edward for lacke of heire of his owne
bodie, all which things he did accordinglie. And for the better
assurance of his obeisance also, he afterward deliuered into the hands
of king Edward sundrie noble men of Scotland in this behalfe as his
pledges. This is the effect of the historie of Dauid, touching his
delings. Now let vs sée what was doone by Edward Balioll, wherof our
chronicles doo report, that in the yéere of our Lord 1326, Edward the
third, king of England, was crowned at Westminster, and in the fift
yeare of his reigne Edward Balioll right heire to the kingdome of
Scotland came in, and claimed it as due to him. Sundrie lords and
gentlemen also, which had title to diuerse lands there, either by
themselues, or by their wiues, did the like. Wherevpon the said Balioll
and they went into Scotland by sea, and landing at Kinghorne with 3000
Englishmen, discomfited 10000 Scots, and slue 1200, and then went foorth
to Dunfermeline, where the Scots assembled against them with 40000 men,
and in the feast of saint Laurence, at a place called Gastmore (or
otherwise Gladmore) were slaine fiue earls, thirtéene barons, a hundred
and thrée score knights, two thousand men of armes, and manie other; in
all fortie thousand: and there were slaine on the English part but
thirtéene persons onelie, if the number be not corrupted.
In the eight yeare of the reigne of king Edward, he assembled a great
hoast, and came to Berwike vpon Twéed, and laid siege therto. To him
also came Edward Balioll king of Scots, with a great power to strengthen
& aid him against the Scots, who came out of Scotland in foure batels
well armed & araied.
Edward king of England, and Edward king of Scots, apparrelled their
people either of them in foure battels: and vpon Halidon hill, beside
Berwike, met these two hoasts, and there were discomfited of the Scots
fiue and twentie thousand and seauen hundred, whereof were slaine eight
earles, a thousand and thrée hundred knights and gentlemen. This
victorie doone, the king returned to Berwike, & then the towne with the
castell were yéelded vp vnto him. In the eight yeare of the reigne of
king Edward of England, Edward Balioll king of Scots came to Newcastell
vpon Tine, and did homage for all the realme of Scotland.
In the yeare of our Lord 1346, Dauid Bruse by the prouocation of the
king of France rebelled, and came into England with a great hoast vnto
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Neuils crosse: but the archbishop of Yorke, with diuerse temporall men,
fought with him; and the said king of Scots was taken, and William earle
of Duglas with Morrise earle of Strathorne were brought to London, and
manie other lords slaine, which with Dauid did homage to Edward king of
England.
And in the thirtith yeare of the kings reigne, and the yeare of our Lord
1355, the Scots woone the towne of Berwicke, but not the castell.
Herevpon the king came thither with a great hoast, and anon the towne
was yéelded vp without anie resistance.
Edward Balioll, considering that God did so manie maruellous and
gratious things for king Edward, at his owne will gaue vp the crowne and
the realme of Scotland to king Edward of England at Rokesborough, by his
letters patents. And anon after the king of England, in presence of all
his lords spirituall and temporall, let crowne himselfe king there of
the realme of Scotland, & ordeined all things to his intent, and so came
ouer into England.
Richard the sonne of Edward, called the Blacke prince, sonne of this
king Edward, was next king of England, who for that the said Iane, the
wife of the said king Dauid of Scotland was deceassed without issue, and
being informed how the Scots deuised to their vttermost power to breake
the limitation of this inheritance touching the crowne of Scotland, made
foorthwith war against them, wherein he burnt Edenbrough, spoiled all
their countrie, tooke all their holds, & held continuallie war against
them vntill his death, which was Anno Dom. 1389.
Henrie the fourth of that name was next king of England, he continued
these warres begun against them by king Richard, and ceassed not vntill
Robert king of Scots (the third of that name) resigned his crowne by
appointment of this king Henrie, and deliuered his sonne Iames, being
then of the age of nine yeares, into his hands to remaine at his
custodie, wardship and disposition, as of his superiour lord, according
to the old lawes of king Edward the confessor. All this was doone Anno
Dom. 1404, which was within fiue yeares after the death of king Richard.
This Henrie the fourth reigned in this estate ouer them fouretéene
yeares.
Henrie the fift of that name, sonne to this king Henrie the fourth, was
next king of England. He made warres against the French king, in all
which this Iames then king of Scots attended vpon him, as vpon his
superiour lord, with a conuenient number of Scots, notwithstanding their
league with France. But this Henrie reigned but nine yeares, whereby the
homage of this Iames their king (hauing not fullie accomplished the age
of one & twentie yeares) was by reason and law respited. Finallie the
said Iames with diuerse other lords attended vpon the corps of the said
Henrie vnto Westminster, as to his dutie apperteined.
Henrie the sixt, the sonne of this Henrie the fift, was next king of
England, to whome the seigniorie of Scotland & custodie of this Iames by
right, law, and reason descended, married the same Iames king of Scots
to Iane daughter of Iohn earle of Summerset, at saint Marie ouer Ise in
Southwarke, and tooke for the value of this mariage, the summe of one
hundred thousand markes starling.
This Iames king of Scots at his full age, did homage to the same king
Henrie the sixt, for the kingdome of Scotland at Windsore, in the moneth
of Ianuarie.
Since which time, vntill the daies of king Henrie the seuenth,
grandfather to our souereigne ladie that now is, albeit this realme hath
béene molested with diuersitie of titles, in which vnmeet time neither
law nor reason admit prescription to the prejudice of anie right: yet
did king Edward the fourth next king of England, by preparation of war
against the Scots in the latter end of his reigne, sufficientlie by all
lawes induce to the continuance of his claime to the same superioritie
ouer them.
After whose death, vnto the beginning of the reigne of our souereigne
lord king Henrie the eight, excéeded not the number of seauen and
twentie yeares, about which time the impediment of our claime of the
Scots part, chanced by the nonage of Iames their last king which so
continued the space of one and twentie yeares. And like as his minoritie
was by all law and reason an impediment to himselfe to make homage; so
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was the same by like reason an impediment to the king of this realme to
demand anie, so that the whole time of intermission of our claime in the
time of the said king Henrie the eight, is deduced vnto the number of
thirteene yeares. And thus much for this matter.
Hauing hitherto discoursed vpon the title of the kings of England, vnto
the Scotish kingdome: I haue now thought good to adde herevnto the
description of two walles that were (in times past) limits vnto both the
said regions, and therefore to be touched in this first booke, as
generallie appertinent vnto the estate of the whole Iland; and no lesse
famous than that which Anastasius Dicorus made afterward from the Euxine
vnto the Thracian sea, conteining 420 furlongs in length, and twelue
foot in bredth, & distant from Constantinople 280 furlongs, albeit that
of Hadrian was made of turffe and timber. The author therefore of the
The first beginner of the Picts wall.
first wall was Hadrian the emperour, who (as Ælius Spartianus saith)
erected the same of foure score miles in length, twelue foot in heigth,
and eight in bredth, to diuide the barbarous Britons from the more
ciuill sort, which then were generallie called by the name of Romans
ouer all.
The finisher of the wall.
After his time Seuerus the emperour comming againe into this Ile (where
he had serued before in repression of the tumults here begun, after the
death of Lucius) amongst other things he made another wall (but of
stone) betwéene eightie and a hundred miles from the first, & of thirtie
two miles in length, reaching on both sides also to the sea, of whome
the Britons called it S. Murseueri, or Gwall Seueri, that is, The wall
of Seuerus, or Seuerus dale, which later indureth vntill these daies in
fresh memorie, by reason of the ruines & square stones there oft found,
whose inscriptions declare the authors of that worke. It is worthie the
noting also, how that in this voiage he lost 50000 men in the Scotish
side, by one occasion and other, which hinderance so incensed him, that
he determined vtterlie to extinguish their memorie from vnder heauen,
and had so doone in déed, if his life had indured but vntill another
The wall goeth not streict by a line,
but in and out in manie places.
yeare. Sextus Aurelius writing of Seuerus, addeth, how that the wall
made by this prince conteined two and thirtie miles, whereby the bredth
of this Iland there, and length of the wall conteineth onelie so manie
miles, as may be gathered by his words. But chéeflie for the length of
the wall, Spartianus who touching it among other things saith of Seuerus
as followeth: "Britanniam (quod maximum eius imperij decus est) muro per
transuersam insulam ducto, vtrinq; ad finem oceani muniuit," that is, He
fortified Britaine (which is one of the chéefe acts recorded of his
time) with a wall made ouerthwart the Ile, that reached on both sides
euen to the verie Ocean.
The stuffe of the wall.
That this wall was of stone also, the ruines therof (which haue
ministred much matter to such as dwell néere therevnto in their
buildings) is triall sufficient. Heereby in like sort it commeth to
passe, that where the soile about it is least inhabited, there is most
mention of the said wall, which was wrought of squared stone, as vntill
this daie maie euidentlie be confirmed. Howbeit, these two walles were
not the onelie partitions betwéene these two kingdoms, sith Iulius
Two other wals.
Capitolinus in vita Antonini Pij dooth write of another that Lollius
Vrbicus made beyond the same, of turffe, in the time of the said prince,
who (for his victories in Britaine) was also called Britannicus, which
neuerthelesse was often throwne downe by the Scots, and eftsoones
repared againe, vntill it was giuen ouer and relinquished altogither. It
runneth (as I take it) also within the wall about an arrow shot from
that of stone: but how farre it went, as yet I cannot find. This onlie
remaineth certeine, that the walles made by Hadrian & Seuerus, were
A rampire.
ditched with notable ditches and rampires made in such wise, that the
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Scotish aduersarie had much a doo to enter and scale the same in his
assaults. And yet for all this, I read that the Scots oftentimes pulled
downe great parcels of the same, to make their accesse more easie into
the south parts: but as it was eftsoons repared againe, so the last time
of all it was amended by the Romane soldiors, which came ouer verie
little before the time of Vortiger, at which season the land was in
maner left void of soldiors and munition. Betwixt Thirlewall and the
north Tine, are also in the waste grounds, manie parcels of that wall of
Seuerus yet standing, whereof the common people doo babble manie things.
The course of the wall from west to east.
Beginning therefore with the course thereof, from the west sea, I find
that it runneth from Bolnesse to Burgh, about foure miles, and likewise
from thence within halfe a mile of Carleill, and lesse on the north
side, and beneath the confluence of the Peder and the Eden. From hence
it goeth to Terrebie, a village about a mile from Caerleill, then
through the baronie of Linstocke, and Gillesland, on the north side of
the riuer Irding or Arding, and a quarter of a mile from the abbeie of
Leuercost. Thence thrée miles aboue Leuercost, and aboue the confluence
of Arding, and the Pultrose becke (which diuideth Gillesland in
Cumberland, from south Tindale in Northumberland) it goeth to Thirlwall
castell, then to the wall towne, next of all ouer the riuer to Swensheld,
Carraw (peraduenture Cairuoren tower) to Walwijc, and so ouer south
Tine, to Cockelie tower, Portgate, Halton sheles, Winchester, Rutchester,
Heddon, Walhottle, Denton, and to Newcastell, where it is thought that
saint Nicholas church standeth on the same. Howbeit Leland saith, that
it goeth within a mile of Newcastell, and then crooketh vp toward
Tinmouth vnto Wallesend, three miles from the mouth of the said riuer,
so called bicause the aforesaid wall did end at the same place. And thus
much I read of the Pictish wall. As for the Romane coine that is often
found in the course thereof, the curious bricks about the same néere
vnto Caerleill, beside the excellent cornellines and other costlie
stones alreadie intailed for seales oftentimes taken vp in those
quarters, I passe them ouer as not incident to my purpose.
In like maner I would gladlie also haue set downe the course of Offaes
ditch, which was march betwéene the Mercian dominions, and the Welshmen
in his time: but for so much as the tractation thereof is not to be
reférred to this place, bicause it is not a thing generall to the whole
Iland, I omit to speake of that also. Yet thus much will I note here, as
well by the report of one (who saith how he did tread it out) that he
followed it from the Dee to Kirnaburgh hill through Treuelach forrest,
by est of Crekith Cauchhill, Montgomerie castell, the New castell and
Discoid, and hauing brought it hitherto, either lost it, or sought after
it no further: as by the testimonie of another, who writing thereof,
saith, that it stretched from the south side by Bristow, along vnder the
mounteins of Wales northwards, ouer the riuer of Sauerne, and to the
verie mouth also of the Dée, where it falleth into the sea. And so much
of such things as concerne the generall estate of the whole Iland, which
labour herein I could verie well haue spared, and would, if Quintus had
performed the request of Cicero his brother, who promised to send him
ouer a sound aduertisement of the condition of Britaine in those daies:
as appeareth in the second booke of his familiar epistles, where he
saith; "Modò mihi date Britanniam, quam pingam coloribus tuis penicillo
meo, &c." But sithence that was not performed, and the treatise of
Demetrius and other of the same argument are perished, which were of
some value, let this trifle (I beseech you) not be reiected, till some
other man of better skill shall haue drawne a more absolute péece of
workemanship, wherevnto my vnskilfulnesse (I hope) shall prooue no
hinderance.
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Such as haue written of the woonders of our countrie in old time, haue
spoken (no doubt) of manie things, which deserue no credit at all: and
therefore in séeking thankes of their posteritie by their trauell in
this behalfe; they haue reaped the reward of iust reproch, and in stéed
of fame purchased vnto themselues nought else but méere discredit in
their better and more learned treatises. The like commonlie happeneth
also to such, as in respect of lucre doo publish vnprofitable and
pernicious volumes, wherby they doo consume their times in vaine, and in
manifold wise become preiudiciall vnto their common wealths. For my part
I will not touch anie man herein particularlie, no not our Demetrius, of
whom Plutarch speaketh in his oracles (if those bookes were written by
him, for some thinke that Plutarch neuer wrote them, although Eusebius
lib. 4. cap. 8. dooth acknowledge them to be his) which Demetrius left
sundrie treatises behind him, conteining woonderfull things collected of
our Iland. But sith that in my time they are found to be false, it
should be far vnmeet to remember them anie more: for who is he which
will beléeue, that infernall spirits can die and giue vp their ghosts
like mortall men? though Saxo séeme to consent vnto him in this behalfe.
In speaking also of the out Iles, he saith thus: Beyond Britaine are
manie desolate Ilands, whereof some are dedicated to the Gods, some to
the noble Heroes. I sailed (saith he) by the helpe of the king vnto one
that laie néere hand, onelie to see and view the same, in which I found
few inhabitants, and yet such as were there, were reputed and taken for
men of great pietie and holinesse. During the time also that I remained
in the same, it was vexed with great storme and tempest, which caused me
not a little to doubt of my safe returne. In the end, demanding of the
inhabitants what the cause should be of this so great and sudden
mutation of the aire? they answered, that either some of the Gods, or at
the least of the Heroes were latelie deceased: for as a candle (said
they) hurteth none whilest it burneth, but being slenderlie put out
annoieth manie with the filthie sauour: so these Gods, whilest they
liued, were either not hurtfull, or verie beneficiall to mankind; but
being once deceassed, they so mooue the heauens and aire, that much
mischéefe dooth insue eftsoones vpon the same.
Being also inquisitiue of the state of other Iles not farre off, they
told him further, how there was one hard by, wherein Saturne being
ouertaken with a dead sléepe, was watched by Briareus as he laie, which
Saturne also had manie spirits attending vpon him in sundrie functions
and offices. By which reports it is easie to conceiue, with what vaine
stuffe that volume of Demetrius is interlaced. But of such writers as we
haue too too manie, so among the said rable Geruase of Tilberie is not
the least famous, a man as it were euen sold to vtter matters of more
admiration than credit to the world. For what a tale telleth he in his
De otio imperiali, of Wandleburie hilles, that lie within sight & by
south of Cambridge (where the Vandals incamped sometime, when they
entered into this Iland) and of a spirit that would of custome in a
moone shine night (if he were chalenged and called therevnto) run at
tilt and turneie in complet armor with anie knight or gentleman
whomsoeuer, in that place: and how one Osbert of Barnewell, hearing the
report thereof, armed himselfe, and being well mounted, rode thither
alone with one esquier, and called for him, who foorthwith appeared in
rich armour, and answered his chalenge, so that running togither verie
fiercelie, they met with such rigor, that the answerer was ouerthrowne
and borne downe to the ground. After this they bickered on foot so long,
till Osbert ouercame and draue him to flight, who departed, leauing his
horsse behind him, which was of huge stature, blacke (as he saith) of
colour, with his furniture of the same hue, and wherevpon he seized,
giuing him vnto his page, who caried him home, and there kept him till
it was néere daie, during which space he was séene of manie. But when
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the daie light began to shew it selfe somewhat cléere, the beast stamped
and snorted, and foorthwith breaking his raine, he ran awaie, and was no
more heard of to his knowledge in that countrie. In the meane season
Osbert being verie faint, and waxing wearie (for he was sore wounded in
the thigh, which either he knew not of, or at the leastwise dissembled
to know it) caused his leg-harnesse or stéele bootes to be pulled off,
which his fréends saw to be full of bloud spilled in the voiage. But let
who so list beléeue it, sith it is either a fable deuised, or some
diuelish illusion, if anie such thing were doone. And on mine owne
behalfe, hauing (I hope) the feare of God before my eies, I purpose here
to set downe no more than either I know my selfe to be true, or am
crediblie informed to be so, by such godly men, as to whom nothing is
more deare than to speake the truth, and not anie thing more odious than
to discredit themselues by lieng. In writing therefore of the woonders
Foure woonders of England.
of England, I find that there are foure notable things, which for their
rarenesse amongst the common sort, are taken for the foure miracles and
woonders of the land.
The first of these is a vehement and strong wind, which issueth out of
the hilles called the Peke, so violent and strong, that at certeine
times if a man doo cast his cote or cloake into the caue from whence it
issueth, it driueth the same backe againe, hoising it aloft into the
open aire with great force and vehemencie. Of this also Giraldus
speaketh.
The second is the miraculous standing or rather hanging of certeine
stones vpon the plaine of Salisburie, whereof the place is called
Stonehenge. And to saie the truth, they may well be woondered at, not
onelie for the manner of position, whereby they become verie difficult
to be numbred, but also for their greatnesse & strange maner of lieng of
some of them one vpon another, which séemeth to be with so tickle hold,
that few men go vnder them without feare of their present ruine. How and
when these stones were brought thither, as yet I can not read; howbeit
it is most likelie, that they were raised there by the Britons, after
the slaughter of their nobilitie at the deadlie banket, which Hengist
and his Saxons prouided for them, where they were also buried, and
Vortigerne their king apprehended and led awaie as captiue. I haue heard
that the like are to be séene in Ireland; but how true it is as yet I
can not learne. The report goeth also, that these were broght from
thence, but by what ship on the sea, and cariage by land, I thinke few
men can safelie imagine.
The third is an ample and large hole vnder the ground, which some call
Carcer Acoli, but in English Chedderhole, whereinto manie men haue
entred & walked verie farre. Howbeit, as the passage is large and
nothing noisome: so diuerse that haue aduentured to go into the same,
could neuer as yet find the end of that waie, neither sée anie other
thing than pretie riuerets and streames, which they often crossed as
they went from place to place. This Chedderhole or Chedder rocke is in
Summersetshire, and thence the said waters run till they méet with the
second Ax that riseth in Owkie hole.
The fourth is no lesse notable than anie of the other. For westward vpon
certeine hilles a man shall sée the clouds gather togither in faire
weather vnto a certeine thicknesse, and by and by to spread themselues
abroad and water their fields about them, as it were vpon the sudden.
The causes of which dispersion, as they are utterlie vnknowne: so manie
men coniecture great store of water to be in those hilles, & verie néere
at hand, if it were néedfull to be sought for.
Besides these foure maruelles, there is a little rockie Ile in Aber
Barrie (a riueret that falleth into the Sauerne sea) called Barrie,
which hath a rift or clift next the first shore; wherevnto if a man doo
laie his eare, he shall heare such noises as are commonlie made in
smiths forges, to wit, clinking of iron barres, beating with hammers,
blowing of bellowses, and such like: whereof the superstitious sort doo
gather manie toies, as the gentiles did in old time of their lame god
Vulcans pot. The riuer that runneth by Chester changeth hir chanell
euerie moneth: the cause whereof as yet I can not learne; neither dooth
it swell by force of anie land-floud, but by some vehement wind it oft
ouer-runneth hir banks. In Snowdonie are two lakes, whereof one beareth
a moouable Iland, which is carried to and fro as the wind bloweth. The
[Page 218]
other hath thrée kinds of fishes in it, as éeles, trowts, and perches:
but herein resteth the woonder, that all those haue but one eie a péece
onelie, and the same situate in the right side of their heads. And this
I find to be confirmed also by authors: There is a well in the forrest
of Gnaresborow, whereof the said forrest dooth take the name; which
water, beside that it is cold as Stix, in a certeine period of time
knowne, conuerteth wood, flesh, leaues of trées, and mosse into hard
stone, without alteration or changing of shape. The like also is séene
there in frogs, wormes, and such like liuing creatures as fall into the
same, and find no readie issue. Of this spring also Leland writeth thus;
A little aboue March (but at the further banke of Nide riuer as I came)
I saw a well of wonderfull nature called Dropping well, because the
water thereof distilleth out of great rockes hard by into it
continuallie, which is so cold, and thereto of such nature, that what
thing soeuer falleth out of those rocks into this pit, or groweth néere
thereto, or be cast into it by mans hand, it turneth into stone. It may
be (saith he) that some sand or other fine ground issueth out with this
water from these hard rocks, which cleauing vnto those things, giueth
them in time the forme of stones &c. Néere vnto the place where Winburne
monasterie sometimes stood, also not farre from Bath there is a faire
wood, whereof if you take anie péece, and pitch it into the ground
thereabouts, or throw it into the water, within twelue moneths it will
turne into hard stone. In part of the hilles east southeast of
Alderleie, a mile from Kingswood, are stones dailie found, perfectlie
fashioned like cockles and mightie oisters, which some dreame haue lien
there euer since the floud. In the clifts betwéene the Blacke head and
Trewardeth baie in Cornwall, is a certeine caue, where things appeare
like images guilded, on the sides of the same, which I take to be
nothing but the shining of the bright ore of coppar and other mettals
readie at hand to be found there, if anie diligence were vsed. Howbeit,
because it is much maruelled at as a rare thing, I doo not thinke it to
be vnméet to be placed amongst our woonders. Maister Guise had of late,
and still hath (for aught that I know) a manor in Glocestershire, where
certeine okes doo grow, whose rootes are verie hard stone. And beside
this, the ground is so fertile there (as they saie) that if a man hew a
stake of anie wood, and pitch it into the earth, it will grow and take
rooting beyond all expectation. Siluecester towne also is said to
conteine fourescore acres of land within the walles, whereof some is
corne-ground (as Leland saith) and the graine which is growing therein
dooth come to verie good perfection till it be readie to be cut downe:
but euen then, or about that time it vanisheth away & becommeth
altogither vnprofitable. Is it any woonder (thinke you) to tell of
sundrie caues néere to Browham, on the west side of the riuer Aimote,
wherein are halles, chambers, and all offices of houshold cut out of the
hard rocke? If it be, then may we increase the number of maruels verie
much by a rehearsall of other also. For we haue manie of the like, as
one néere saint Assaphs vpon the banke of Elwie, and about the head of
Vendrath Vehan in Wales, whereinto men haue often entred and walked, and
yet found nothing but large roomes, and sandie ground vnder their féet,
and other else-where. But sith these things are not strange, I let them
alone, and go forward with the rest.
In the parish of Landsarnam in Wales, and in the side of a stonie hill,
is a place wherein are foure and twentie seats hewen out of the hard
rockes; but who did cut them, and to what end, as yet it is not learned.
As for the huge stone that lieth at Pember in Guitherie parish, and of
the notable carcasse that is affirmed to lie vnder the same, there is no
cause to touch it here: yet were it well doone to haue it remoued,
though it were but onlie to sée what it is, which the people haue in so
great estimation & reuerence. There is also a poole in Logh Taw, among
the blacke mounteins in Brecknockshire, where (as is said) is the head
of Taw that commeth to Swanseie, which hath such a propertie, that it
will bréed no fish at all, & if anie be cast into it, they die without
recouerie: but this peraduenture may grow throgh the accidentall
corruption of the water, rather than the naturall force of the element
it selfe. There is also a lin in Wales, which in the one side beareth
trowts so red as samons, and in the other, which is the westerlie side,
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verie white and delicate. I heare also of two welles not far from
Landien, which stand verie néere togither, and yet are of such
diuersitie of nature, that the one beareth sope, and is a maruellous
fine water; the other altogither of contrarie qualities. Which is not a
litle to be mused at, considering (I saie) that they participate of one
soile, and rise so nigh one to another. I haue notice giuen me moreouer
of a stone not farre from saint Dauids, which is verie great, as a bed,
or such like thing: and being raised vp, a man may stirre it with his
thumbe; but not with his shoulder or force of his whole bodie.
There is a well not farre from stonie Stratford, which conuerteth manie
things into stone; and an other in Wales, which is said to double or
triple the force of anie edge toole that is quenched in the same. In
Tegenia, a parcell of Wales, there is a noble well (I meane in the
parish of Kilken) which is of maruellous nature, and much like to
another well at Seuill in Spaine: for although it be six miles from the
sea, it ebbeth and floweth twise in one daie; alwaies ebbing when the
sea dooth vse to flow, and in flowing likewise when the sea dooth vse to
ebbe; wherof some doo fable, that this well is ladie and mistresse of
the ocean. Not farre from thence also is a medicinable spring called
Schinant of old time, but now Wenefrides well, in the edges whereof
dooth breed a verie odoriferous and delectable mosse, wherewith the head
of the smeller is maruellouslie refreshed. Other welles and
water-courses we haue likewise, which at some times burst out into huge
streames, though at other seasons they run but verie softlie, whereby
the people gather some alteration of estate to be at hand. And such a
one there is at Henleie, & an other at Croidon; & such a one also in the
golden dale beside Anderne in Picardie, whereof the common sort imagine
manie things. Some of the greater sort also giue ouer to run at all in
such times, wherof they conceiue the like opinion. And of the same
nature, though of no great quantitie, is a pit or well at Langleie parke
in Kent, whereof (by good hap) it was my lucke to read a notable
historie in an ancient chronicle that I saw of late. What the foolish
people dreame of the hell Kettles, it is not worthie the rehearsall; yet
to the end the lewd opinion conceiued of them may grow into contempt, I
will saie thus much also of those pits. There are certeine pits, or
rather three little pooles, a mile from Darlington, and a quarter of a
mile distant from the These banks which the people call the Kettles of
hell, or the diuels Kettles, as if he should séeth soules of sinfull men
and women in them. They adde also, that the spirits haue oft beene heard
to crie and yell about them, with other like talke sauoring altogether
of pagan infidelitie. The truth is, and of this opinion also was Cutbert
Tunstall late bishop of Durham, a man (notwithstanding the basenesse of
his birth, being begotten by one Tunstall vpon a daughter of the house
of the Commers, as Leland saith) of great learning and iudgement, that
the cole-mines in those places are kindled, or if there be no coles,
there may a mine of some other vnctuous matter be set on fire, which
being here and there consumed, the earth falleth in, and so dooth leaue
a pit. Indéed the water is now and then warme (as they saie) and beside
that it is not cléere: the people suppose them to be an hundred fadam
déepe. The biggest of them also hath an issue into the These, as
experience hath confirmed. For doctor Bellowes aliàs Belzis made report,
how a ducke marked after the fashion of the duckes of the bishoprike of
Durham, was put into the same betwixt Darlington and These banke, and
afterward séene at a bridge not farre from master Clereuax house. If it
were woorth the noting, I would also make relation of manie wooden
crosses found verie often about Halidon, whereof the old inhabitants
conceiued an opinion that they were fallen from heauen; whereas in
truth, they were made and borne by king Oswald; and his men in the
battell wherein they preuailed sometimes against the British infidels,
vpon a superstitious imagination, that those crosses should be their
defense and shield against their aduersaries. Beda calleth the place
where the said field was fought, Heauen field; it lieth not far from the
Pictish wall, and the famous monasterie of Hagulstad. But more of this
elsewhere. Neither will I speak of the little hillets séene in manie
places of our Ile, whereof though the vnskilfull people babble manie
things: yet are they nothing else but Tumuli or graues of former times,
as appeareth by such tooms & carcasses as be daily found in the same,
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when they be digged downe. The like fond imagination haue they of a kind
of lunarie, which is to be found in manie places, although not so well
knowen by the forme vnto them, as by the effect thereof, because it now
and then openeth the lockes hanging on the horses féet as hit vpon it
where it groweth in their féeding. Roger Bacon our countrieman noteth it
to grow plentiouslie in Tuthill fields about London. I haue heard of it
to be within compasse of the parish where I dwell, and doo take it for
none other than the Sfera Cauallo, whereof Mathiolus and the herbarists
doo write, albeit that it hath not béene my lucke at anie time to behold
it. Plinie calleth it Aethiopis: and Aelianus, Oppianus, Kyramis, and
Trebius haue written manie superstitious things thereof, but especiallie
our Chymists, who make it of farre more vertue than our smiths doo their
ferne séed, whereof they babble manie woonders, and prate of such
effects as may well be performed indéed when the ferne beareth séed,
which is commonly Ad calendas Græcas, for before it will not be found.
But to procéed. There is a well in Darbieshire called Tideswell (so
named of the word tide, or to ebbe and flow) whose water often séemeth
to rise and fall, as the sea which is fortie miles from it dooth
vsuallie accustome to ebbe and flow. And hereof an opinion is growen
that it kéepeth an ordinarie course as the sea dooth. Howbeit, sith
diuerse are knowne to haue watched the same, it may be that at sometimes
it riseth, but not continuallie; and that it so dooth I am fullie
persuaded to beléeue. But euen inough of the woonders of our countrie,
least I doo seeme by talking longer of them, woonderouslie to ouershoot
my selfe, and forget how much dooth rest behind of the description of my
countrie. As for those that are to be touched of Scotland, the
description of that part shall in some part remember them.
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