FROM EGYPT TO MOMBASA
At 2 a.m. on the following morning we
stopped both engines just outside Valetta
Harbour; the guard-boat came alongside and
gave us instructions to proceed to Port Said,
and there, after an uneventful voyage, we
duly arrived three days later.
Entering the harbour at sunrise, and passing
between the long breakwaters which run out
into the sea to mark the dredged channel, we
anchored close to the eastern shore. Then
lighters, filled with coal and manned by natives,
came alongside and were secured four to each
side of the ship. Presently gang-planks were
placed between the inboard lighters and the
deck, and the natives filled little baskets with
coal, balanced them on their heads, ran up the
gang-planks and tipped the coal into the
bunkers. It was our first experience of Eastern
methods—frankly we thought them rather
finicky! However they got the coaling finished
by 2 o’clock and we asked the Commander for
leave to go ashore. This, however, he firmly
refused, and made us draw a section of the
ship instead, which seemed adding insult to
injury!
Note by Mother: Half-a-score of wild
middies on the loose at Port Said of all places!
What a wise commander!
In the evening we weighed anchor and, taking
on a pilot, proceeded through the Canal. Great
expanses of open water, broken occasionally by
long sand-spits, stretched away on either side.
The banks of the Canal are raised some six feet
above the water level and are about twenty feet
wide. On our starboard, or the Egyptian side,
ran a caravan road overshadowed by plane and
palm trees, and we saw several camels being
driven along by Arabs in picturesque flowing
garments. Presently the sun dipped below the
horizon and turned the wide expanse of water
to the colour of blood. Gradually this faded
away and slowly disappeared, and only a
beautiful rosy glow was left in the sky
above us.
Little signal stations connected with each
other by telephone are placed every mile or so
along the Canal, and at each of these it has been
widened to allow of two ships passing each
other, but in order to do this it is necessary
for one of the ships to tie up to the bank.
We, being on special duty, were allowed to go
straight through, and any craft we encountered
was obliged to tie up and make way for us.
At this time we had taken to sleeping on
deck because of the heat, and in the middle of
that night I woke up just as we were passing
three Indian troopships which were tied up to
the eastern bank of the Canal.
A gorgeous full moon was shining down
on the desert, silvering the sand, and making
everything almost as clear as in daylight.
There was no sound to break the silence save
the gentle lippety-lap of our wash against the
banks. I got up and leant over the shelter
deck watching the desert as we slipped by.
I used to imagine somehow that the desert was
flat, but of course it isn’t!
Every now and then we would pass a tall
palm tree showing up in deep relief against the
rolling sand-hills, and sometimes a sleeping
Arab and his camel. Presently we passed into
the Bitter Lakes, when all around us stretched
placid water, the channel being marked out
with red and green lights dwindling away in
dim perspective to the horizon. Towards dawn
a little chill, sighing breeze sprang up, and I
returned to my slumbers.
Next morning, as we drew near Suez, the
view was glorious. Mile on mile of billowing
sand, golden now in the fierce rays of the sun,
stretched away on either side, the banks being
clothed with sparse vegetation.
Soon after breakfast we passed out of the
Canal and into Suez Bay, where a large convoy
lay at anchor waiting to proceed to Port
Said.
That evening found us far down the Gulf of
Suez, and Mount Sinai appeared on our starboard
beam. Next day we were in the Red
Sea, where we found it appallingly hot. Every
morning we used to bathe in a canvas bath
which was rigged up on the quarter-deck and
filled with sea-water. We had our first
experience of that most objectionable thing
called “prickly heat” here, and did not like
it at all!
Three days later we received a wireless
message saying that it was believed that the
Koenigsberg, a German raiding cruiser, was
coaling in Jidda, a port in Arabia, on the banks
of the Red Sea. At the time that we received
this message, Jidda bore about six points on
our starboard bow, so setting our course
straight for it, we arrived off this little harbour
about 4 p.m. It is the port for Mecca, and is
very difficult to navigate owing to its many
shifting sandbanks.
By 5 o’clock, having worked our way in as
far as it was advisable to go, we lowered our
pinnace, which, under the command of one
of our lieutenants who was accompanied by
a subaltern of marines, proceeded into the
harbour. All eyes were eagerly fixed on the
one steamer visible in the harbour, but even
the most sanguine among us could see that it
was not a war-ship of any description. However,
we all hoped for some definite news from the
British Consul as to the whereabouts of the
German cruiser. But we were doomed to
disappointment, for soon after dark the pinnace
returned, and the Lieutenant reported that the
said Consul—a rather sly Arab—denied that
the German ship had been there. The Lieutenant
had also interviewed the port authorities,
but they could—or would—give no news,
and he had examined the solitary steamer,
which proved to be a British cargo-boat which
had come in the day before. So we hoisted
the pinnace, weighed anchor, and proceeded
on our way, horribly disappointed and rather
disheartened. We felt it was high time that
something other than mere voyaging, however
pleasant, should come our way.
Two days later we sighted H.M.S. “——,”
and shortly after passing Perim Island we
went through the “Gates of Hell” in her
company.
The narrow straits bearing this sulphurous
nickname, and properly called the Straits of
Bab-el-Mandeb, are situated at the end of the
Red Sea and at the entrance to the Gulf of Aden.
When we got clear into the gulf we sighted
a steamer and our consort went in chase of it,
leaving us to continue our course for Aden,
which we reached at 5 o’clock.
Here we had to anchor by the bows and
moor our stern to a buoy, but by the time we
had lowered the cutter, which was to take the
wire hawser to the buoy in question, our
stern had swung round and was nearly half a
mile away from it, and the crew could not pull
against the long length of sagging wire behind
them.
The picket boat was lowered as quickly as
possible and took the cutter in tow, but by this
time our stern had nearly drifted aground.
Rapid orders were passed from the bridge to
the quarter-deck, and at last we saw one of the
cutter’s crew leap on to the buoy and shackle
the hawser to the ring. Then the after capstan
began to heave round, and slowly the wire rose
out of the water and tautened. Very gradually
the stern began to swing back; but it was a long,
slow job, as much care was needed to prevent
the hawser from parting. By 9 o’clock, however,
everything was secured, the ship lay
peacefully on the still waters of the harbour,
and we all went down to dinner.
We were up early next morning for our first
good look at Aden. What an arid place!
Great mountains tower above the town to a
height of several thousand feet. Not a leaf,
not a tree to be seen—no crap of vegetation,
no glimpse of green save only a small patch of
some kind of grass, just opposite the landing
stage. Truly the place is suitably immortalised
in the name of that famous pipe-tune, “The
Barren Rocks of Aden!”
In the afternoon we went ashore to have a
look at the town. The streets are very dusty
and camels provide practically the only means
of transport. The houses are mostly built of
stone quarried out of the mountains behind,
and in the native quarter the architecture is
somewhat after the pagoda style. We returned
to the ship to find natives already busy coaling
her, and that night, as the wind was blowing
the right way to carry the coal-dust over the
bow, we thought we might safely sleep on the
quarter-deck.
Coaling went on all night and the wind must
have shifted, for, when I woke in the morning,
the first thing I saw was my next-door neighbour
with a face like a sweep’s! He looked
most awfully funny, and I started roaring with
laughter at him before suddenly realising that
I was myself in a similar plight! So, indeed,
were we all. You never saw such a disreputable,
dirty-looking lot of ruffians in your
life! Hair, hands, faces and clothes simply
smothered in coal-dust; and amid much
mutual chaff and laughter we went below to
wash.
That afternoon we weighed anchor and
sailed for Bombay, arrived there about a week
later, and dropped anchor in the early morning
while it was still dark; and coaling by native
labour began again at once.
Daylight revealed a huge convoy of over
sixty ships assembled in the harbour and
shepherded by one of our battle-ships.
In the afternoon native merchants came
aboard bringing deck-chairs, mosquito-nets and
other less useful things for sale. By the advice
of the surgeons we all supplied ourselves with
mosquito-nets, and many of us also bought
deck-chairs and mats.
That evening the whole of the convoy
mentioned above got under way, and we,
together with H.M.S. “——,” formed their
escort. After a voyage of little more than a
week we sighted H.M.S. “——,” who took
our place, while we, separating from the main
body, took half the convoy down towards
Tanga. One of the troopships was very
slow and could only do about seven-and-a-half
knots, which delayed the convoy a
lot.
Four days later we crossed the Equator,
and here the time-honoured ceremony of
“crossing the line” took place. All who have
not been over the line before, officers and men
alike, have to be ducked and submitted to
various other indignities before they can be
considered “freemen” of the Sea King’s
domain.
On the previous night officers and men
impersonating Neptune and his Court had
paraded the ship with an impromptu band,
and in the morning a huge canvas bath was
rigged up on the fo’c’sle, with a rude throne
for Neptune at one end. After lunch the
fun began. The bears were already splashing
about in the bath ready to duck the neophytes
when Neptune and his staff had finished with
them. One of our lieutenants was the first
victim. The Sea King, gorgeously arrayed in
red and yellow bunting, with a cardboard
crown set on his hempen wig, asks each in
turn if he has ever crossed the line before,
but no sooner does the unfortunate open his
mouth to reply, than a large brush dripping
with whitewash is slapped in his face! He is
then liberally whitewashed all over by Neptune’s
merry men and tipped over backwards
into the bath.
Here the bears seize upon him and pass
him along to the other end, each one ducking
him as he goes, after which his ordeal is
finished, and he can watch his messmates being
served in the same way.
Our Gunnery Lieutenant at first hid, but he
was soon routed out and carried, kicking and
struggling, before the tribunal. He had
reason to regret his attempt to shirk, for by
this time the whitewash had run out, so he
was treated to a plastering of black paint,
sand, and water instead; and, further, given a
spoonful of “medicine” made up of mustard,
pepper, salt, oil, and sea-water all mixed
together, after which he was duly tipped
backwards into the bath!
•••••••
Maybe sober-minded people will think all this
very silly—childish—almost improper in view of
the serious business on which they were engaged.
But let it be remembered that, in the words of
Kipling: “The Navy is very old and very wise.”
She cherishes her traditions, and knows well that
the observance of an old ceremony in which officers
and men take part without distinction of class tends
to foster that immortal spirit of comradeship which
is one of the most valuable assets of the service,
and by no means the least important secret of our
sea-power. For the rest, time enough to think of
War when the call to “action” has been sounded
off. They work best who know how to play.
•••••••
The performance lasted until 4 o’clock,
when we all went below, changed, and had
tea.
We had now been at sea for a little over a
fortnight, and fresh water was getting very
scarce. By order of the Commander all
washing of clothes had already been forbidden;
but on the next day the rain came. It was
practically the first since we left Bombay, and
it rained in a truly tropical manner, coming
down literally in sheets.
All officers who were not on duty turned up
on the quarter-deck in a state of nature, with
large bundles of dirty clothes under their arms,
which they promptly set to work to scrub and
wash. Our quarter-deck awning was spread,
and soon quite a lot of water collected in it.
When I had finished washing my clothes it
occurred to me that the awning would be a
good place for an impromptu bath. I had
just finished and surrendered my place to
Wenton when the Commander came through
the battery door, and was considerably annoyed
at finding the awning being put to this use,
and he promptly gave orders that no one else
should bathe there.
The welcome downpour lasted for a little
over an hour, and was greatly appreciated.
On the following day our starboard condenser
developed several leaky tubes, and for that
day we had to draw out of line to port and
paddle along with only one engine while it was
repaired. Unfortunately, no sooner was this
completed than the other condenser gave out,
and we had to haul out of line again on the
other side, with only our starboard engine
working. This left us with only two days’
boiler, and three days’ drinking-water, and we
were still a good four days from Tanga, so we
sent out a wireless message to H.M.S. “——,”
a cruiser which we knew was in the vicinity, to
come and relieve us.
As the Captain had to go over on business
to the s.s. Karmala, one of the convoy, we
were lowering a cutter to take him there when
the forward falls parted and the boat promptly
swung down perpendicularly, hurling the crew
out. All but one of the men managed to grab
hold of the life-lines and haul themselves into
safety; but for the one in question the life-buoys
were immediately let go, and the other
cutter in charge of the navigator was hastily
lowered. However, after all, the man had
managed to grab one of the bottom lines, and
clambered up the side of the ship, safe and
sound; but it took us a long time to recover
all our life-buoys!
Next morning the cruiser to which we had
wired appeared on the horizon in answer to our
summons, and steamed towards us. She lay to
about half-a-mile away, and our Captain, with
the captain of marines, went away in a boat to
the Karmala, to confer with her captain and the
captain of the cruiser. They returned about
11.30 a.m., and that evening we got under way
and proceeded to Mombasa, which was two
days’ voyage distant, the convoy being left in
charge of the cruiser.
On the following morning Barton and I were
fallen in on the quarter-deck, and the Captain
rated us midshipmen, which entitled us to wear
the coveted white patches, indicative of that
rank, on the collars of our uniform. Up till
then we had only been rated as naval cadets,
though some of the seniors had received their
step earlier. It also entitled us to a slight—very
slight—increase in the rate of our not too
munificent pay! On that day, too, we all
changed round duties, the messengers becoming
watch-keepers, and vice versa.
I was appointed messenger to the Gunnery
Lieutenant, who sent for me next morning and
told me that our ship was going to act as
defence ship to the harbour while she was in
Mombasa, and, since it was impossible to see
anything of the open sea from the port, it had
been decided to send three officers out to Ras
Kilmain, the lighthouse point, and that they
should camp there and set up a range-finder
and dumaresque. They would be able to
communicate with the ship by telephone to
Kilindini, the landing-place in the harbour,
where signalmen would be posted to pass on
any messages. “Guns” said he was sending
the assistant gunnery lieutenant on this job, as
well as Browne, who had been his messenger
for the first three months of the cruise, and
myself. I was delighted with this information,
as it promised to be an interesting job, and
camp-life would in any case be a very pleasant
change after the long weeks we had been on
board ship. Then he told me to help him to
make a large map of the island. The plan was
that one of us should take the range and
bearing of any enemy ship that appeared,
another should plot it on the chart, which was
divided into squares, while the third telephoned
through to our ship, saying what square the
enemy vessel was in. Each square was lettered,
and one spread salvo from our ship’s guns
would cover its area, so that at least one of the
shells was bound to hit.
That evening we entered Mombasa. The
approach is exceedingly difficult to navigate
owing to two large reefs which run out on
either side of the island, having only a narrow
passage of deep water, forty yards wide, lying
between them. Along this channel we advanced
until we were within little more than a stone’s-throw
of the lighthouse; then, turning sharply
to port, we went along parallel with the shore
of the island, keeping so close in that we could
see every pebble on the beach. After continuing
on this course for about four hundred yards we
turned to starboard and steamed between the
mainland and the island. On both sides the
shore was fringed with palm trees right down
to the water’s edge. Beautiful little bays
opened out, revealing still, deep, blue water;
and as the channel gradually twisted to starboard,
the open sea was soon completely lost
to view.
When we had gone about a quarter of a
mile, the banks slowly receded, and we
entered the harbour, which in its widest part
is about half-a-mile across. Another large
harbour, which is about a mile wide and two
miles long, opens out further on and stretches
away inland. The channel surrounding the
island is not navigable all the way for big ships,
but small ones can quite easily go right round
it. Further on there are two more islands,
called respectively Port Tudor and Port
Mombasa, but H.M.’s ships rarely make use
of these ports. Port Kilindini consists only of
the Customs House, one or two railway offices,
and a large coal-shed.
The day after our arrival the three of us
who were to be stationed at the lighthouse
packed our tin cases and disembarked, taking
with us a portable range-finder, a dumaresque,
and some cooking utensils. Having piled all
the luggage on a taxi which had been hired for
us, we started for the lighthouse, which was on
the other side of the island.
At first the road, bounded on one side by a
high embankment and on the other by the
harbour, was slightly uphill, but presently we
passed into a grove of trees and then under
the Uganda railway bridge, and so along a
straight and level road bordered by palm and
various other tropical trees. Then came a
native village composed of mud huts set back
in a clearing to the left. Here a foolish
ostrich, which I imagine belonged to the
natives, fled across the road in front of the
car and narrowly escaped being run over. A
little later we reached the outskirts of the town,
and after passing through it for a short distance
turned to the right, and leaving the native
barracks and the prison on our left, proceeded
along a level track raised above the surrounding
scrub, and flanked by trees wherein hundreds
of birds’-nests hung, until we came to the
hospital. Here we again turned to the right,
and shortly afterwards we arrived at the lighthouse,
where we unloaded our luggage and
dismissed the taxi.
Finding that the tent in which we were to
live was still in possession of the soldiers who
had lived in it hitherto, we left a message with
the native look-out boy, requesting them to
remove themselves before nightfall, and we
went off to the town for some tea. After tea
the Lieutenant and Browne went to buy a stove
and a kettle and one or two other things we
required, while I walked back to the camp to
look after our gear. I found the soldiers had
gone and the tent was ready for us, so I set
about moving in our things. Presently the
Gunnery Lieutenant came up to see the camping
place and to arrange with us where we should
set up the range-finder, etc. I told him the
others were shopping in the town, and we sat
down and talked until they turned up. Then
it was decided to set up our instruments on top
of the look-out house, and to carry the flexible
voice-pipe from there through the window
below to the plotting-table where the chart was.
This done “Guns” departed, and we set to
and arranged our beds and made the tent
ship-shape and habitable.
When in town Browne and the Lieutenant
had bought some shorts and some navy-blue
putties, which they thought would be much
cooler and more serviceable than duck suits;
so during our time in camp our uniform
consisted of shorts, putties, and shirts, and of
course sun helmets, which are indispensable
in that climate. At half-past seven we cooked
some eggs we had brought with us and got
our supper ready. Browne caused us much
amusement, as his only idea of cooking eggs
was to put them all into a saucepan full of
cold water and stir them vigorously until they
boiled! However, I must admit that none
of us knew much about cooking, and we
conducted some fearful and wonderful experiments
in that line while we were in camp!
After supper we were quite ready for bed, so
we turned in.
Next morning there was much to be done,
so we were up by 6 o’clock; and before
breakfast we fixed up our range-finder and
dumaresque on the roof of the observation
hut and rigged up the flexible voice-pipe.
After breakfast we repitched the tent a little
further round, where the prevailing breeze
would blow through it and keep it a bit
cooler. Apparently the “Tommies” who preceded
us were a stuffy lot with no undue
craving for fresh air!
Then we contrived a pantry in the back
of the tent on a wooden table, and here we
installed the filter we had brought from the
ship, as well as all our plates and dishes and
the stove. Further, we engaged a native boy
as general factotum to help with our ménage
and do such cooking as we could not manage
on the stove.
We also hired a bike from the ordnance
officer at the port.
When all this was accomplished a trial run
of ranges and deflections with the ship occupied
us until lunch-time.
During the day a native kept the look-out
from the watch-hut, reporting to us as soon
as anything was sighted at sea.
Next morning I was sent to the pier on
the bicycle to catch the 11.30 boat and to
go to our ship and obtain from the bo’sun
a broom and one or two other things we
needed. I caught the boat all right, lunched
on the “——” after putting in a “chit”
for the broom, etc., and returned to the shore
in the 1.30 boat.
The broom proved a most awkward thing
to convey by bike, and it was horribly in the
way of my knees. When I was about halfway
to the camp I got so tied up with the
beastly thing that I fell off, bike and broom
on top of me! When I picked myself up
I found that the crank of the left pedal had
been bent in the fall. However, the machine,
though more wobbly than ever, was still ridable,
so I finished the journey gingerly and
without further accident.
Perhaps it might be well here to describe
the camp and its surroundings more minutely.
It was pitched about two hundred yards back
from the cliffs; and the watch-house, past
which the road ran, was about ten yards in
front of our tent. The lighthouse was situated
some three hundred yards from the cliff’s edge
to our left; and right opposite it, on a small
point running out into the sea, stood a green
beacon some fifteen feet high. Our native
boy had built his kitchen of sand-bags on the
cliffs just in front of the watch-hut.
The soldiers were now encamped in tents
some hundred yards away to the right, and
immediately behind our tent was a sort of
large stone reservoir for water, with, in front
of it, the flagstaff. Rough paths connected
the beacon with the lighthouse and the
watch-hut.
On our third morning in camp we received
a telephone message from a port a long way
up the coast, saying that a hostile war-ship was
coming down in our direction. We did not
attach much importance to this information
until the following day, when the enemy was
again reported—this time off Kismayne; and
as the next morning she was stated to be
passing Malindi, we calculated that she ought
to be in sight by 3 p.m. Sure enough, almost
exactly at 3 I saw smoke on the horizon, and
immediately telephoned our ship.
Now we were all three eagerly watching the
smoke, and presently the stranger’s masts came
into view. They certainly appeared to have
“tops,” so she might well be a war-ship of
some kind, and our excitement grew until a
single funnel hove in sight, whereat our spirits
drooped a little, for very few ships of war have
only one funnel. Still, as the lower parts of
her masts lifted above the horizon, they looked
at the distance so like tripods that hope rose
high again. Very slowly her hull emerged,
and in another ten minutes she was wholly
visible. Then the powerful magnifying lens of
the range-finder revealed her as unmistakably
a collier.
We telephoned the information through to
our ship, and very shortly afterwards saw our
picket boat manned by an armed crew, and with
a 3-pounder in her bows, coming at full speed
out of the harbour.
Despite the fact that she was seventeen years
old the picket was a very fast boat, and as we
watched through our telescopes we soon saw
her run alongside the collier, and several
figures in duck suits jumped out and ran up
the stranger’s gangway. Then our boat shoved
off again, and they both came steaming towards
the harbour. Shortly afterwards the collier
hoisted the code-flag for the day, thereby
proving that she was not after all an enemy,
and she asked permission to proceed into Kilindini.
What a sell! After all our excitement,
too! But one gets accustomed to that sort of
disappointment; and, after all, there was always
the chance that the next alarm would prove
genuine.
The collier could not be allowed into Kilindini
for some time, as there were already at
the moment two ships in the channel on their
way out, but as soon as the course was clear she
rounded the curve of the island and anchored in
the harbour—and that incident was ingloriously
closed.
We tried that night, I remember, to communicate
with our ship by means of an electric
flash-lamp fixed to the top of the flagstaff, but
it was not a success, for the key was so badly
insulated that after getting many violent shocks
we had to give it up.
We had heard from the soldiers that somewhere
to the left of the watch-hut there was
a cave containing a deep pool of water in which
it was quite safe to bathe, so Browne and I,
being off duty, one morning went down to try
and find it. We crossed the road, and going
downhill for a bit over long grass and through
various stunted shrubs, came presently to a
large rectangular hole in the ground, which, by
a long slope, very slippery and covered with
loose stones, communicated with the said cave.
At the end of the slope was a very small hole,
through which we crawled on hands and knees,
and found, when our eyes had grown accustomed
to the darkness, that we were standing
on a little ledge of rocks. At our feet lay a
small sandy cove, which extended for some
fifty yards to the mouth of the cave, across
which stretched a reef about three feet high.
As the waves rolled in the water every now
and then poured over this reef into a large
pool, and the ledge on which we were standing
ran round the cave at a height of about three
feet above the sand.
We soon stripped and had a delightful bathe
in the pool.
About a quarter of a mile away we could see
a large French liner stranded on the reef. I
don’t know how long she had been there, but
there is something awfully forlorn and desolate-looking
about a wrecked vessel. Her stern
had broken away and fallen off into deep water;
and there was a great hole in her side through
which every now and then the waves splashed,
as though purposely deriding her and mocking
at her downfall.
On the following day the whole convoy
came in from Tanga after having disembarked
the troops. It was my morning watch, and I
saw them on the horizon just as the dawn was
breaking.