BY
THE REV. HENRY NEWLAND, RECTOR AND VICAR OF WESTBOURNE,
AUTHOR OF “THE ERNE: ITS LEGENDS AND ITS FLY-FISHING,” ETC. ETC.
The Second Edition.
LONDON:
G. ROUTLEDGE & CO. FARRINGDON STREET; NEW YORK: 18, BEEKMAN STREET.
1855.
TO MY MUCH-ESTEEMED FRIEND, THE PUBLIC.
My dear Public,—
I have frequently heard you remark, in that
quaint and pithy manner so peculiarly your own, that “all
work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.” If you should
happen to find the book which I here present to your notice
to be really of such a character as your friend Jack might
have written under these distressing circumstances, I am
afraid I cannot plead this very sensible observation of yours
as my excuse; for I must confess, which I do with thankfulness,
that in my time I have enjoyed quite as much play
as is good for me, or for any one, in this working-day world
of ours. On this point, therefore, my book must stand on
its own merits.
But, as I am extremely solicitous of your good opinion,
and should be very sorry to see you err on the opposite
extreme, imagining, as indeed you might, that mine has
been “all play and no work,” I must request you to look
at the Parson at home as well as the Parson abroad,—in
short, to read my “Confirmation and First Communion,”
as well as my “Forest Life;” a proceeding which, if it
does not benefit you, my dear Public (and I sincerely hope
it may), will, at all events,—through the medium of his
Publisher,—benefit, and that materially,
FOREST LIFE: A FISHERMAN’S SKETCHES IN NORWAY AND SWEDEN. — INTRODUCTION.
Sketches in Norway and Sweden! Are they fact or fiction?
are they to be instructive or simply entertaining? These are
questions which the public has a right to ask, and which the
author means to answer as truly as he can. He hopes there
will be a little of both. At least, in making this selection
from his own and his friends’ journals, he has had both these
objects in his eye, and he trusts he has been able to keep his
eye upon them both at the same time, and that without any
very great amount of squinting. The framework which he
has adopted is that of a very popular description of authors—the
historical romancers, and, if he might venture to say so,
of a certain equally popular historian: that is to say, fiction
founded upon fact. He has laid down absolute facts, or what
he believes to be facts, for his groundwork, and has dressed
them up to suit his fancy.
These Northern Sketches are, in truth, a continuation of a
former work, “The Erne, its Legends and its Fly-fishing;”
as the expedition which gave rise to them was in every respect
the same as the old Belleek fishing-association, with a simple
change of scene. They are therefore written upon the same
plan, which the author has found extremely convenient and
very suitable to his purpose.
That purpose was not only to preserve the recollections of
a most enjoyable time, but also to convey as much real information
on the subjects treated on as he could compass; and
with such an object before him, absolute fiction would have
been useless.
His descriptions, therefore, in that book were real descriptions,
his anecdotes, real anecdotes—the incidents of the
story did actually happen; his instructions in the art of fly-fishing
and the hydrography of the river were the results of
his own experience, and the fairy legends were his own
collections. Unless these things had been true, his book
would have been merely a book of entertainment,—and he
was ambitious of something beyond that. Everything of
this kind, therefore, was recorded accurately; and in the few
instances in which the requirements of the story compelled
the author to transplant his incidents, their real localities
were always given.
All this was important to the public, or, at least, as important
as the subject itself; but it was of no consequence
to any one, except for the gratification of mere curiosity, to
be able to identify the precise Captain A. who broke the
weirs of the Laune, while such information would not have
raised Captain A.’s character at the Horse-Guards. The
Liberal member for B. might enjoy the recollection of the row
he got up at Kildoney, but might not find it convenient to
be reminded of it on the hustings. Attorneys might look
askance at Barrister C., who for a whole summer had directed
his studies to the practice of Club-law; while Parson D., who
had passed three months of his life waist-high in the Erne,
might possibly expect, were he identified, to have cold water
thrown upon him by his Bishop for the rest of his life.
With all these matters, interesting enough to the characters
themselves, the public had nothing whatever to do: it
was sufficient for them that they had their information and
their story; and, provided the incidents of that story happened
to some one, it signified little to them, which, of all
the letters of the alphabet, composed his name. The public
should feel grateful to any fisherman who has truly revealed
the silks and feathers of his favourite fly; it is what very
few fishermen will do: let them be satisfied with that: they
shall never know—they have no right to know—which of
all the “Squires” that haunted the Erne it was who landed
the “Schoolmaster” on the “Bank of Ireland.”
In the present sketches the author has not so much reason
to conceal the names of his characters; he can hurt no one.
He has no rows or “ructions” to record; more’s the pity,
for there is nothing so interesting to read about. Still, there
are advantages in carrying out the same plan: first, it makes
the continuation obvious—some of the Erne characters are
again introduced: and this is not a fiction; for when rail-roads
began to multiply, and sporting cockneys began to
infest the innocent Erne, frightening its salmon and exacerbating
its proprietors, that pleasant coterie of fishermen,
who, in earlier and better times, were wont to concoct their
punch and tell their stories at Mother Johnstone’s fire-side,
and hang their great two-handed rods upon her hospitable
brackets, actually did betake themselves to the exile of
foreign lands.
But, in the second place, it conveys the same information
in a more entertaining manner: the author is able to piece
his characters; making them, like Mrs. Malaprop’s Cerberus,
“three gentlemen at once,” by combining into one the incidents
that happened to many. The author has thus availed
himself of other journals and other note-books besides his
own, and has been able to appropriate their contents, and to
distribute whatever was characteristic of the country, into a
series of connected sketches, instead of perpetually changing
his locality and introducing new characters. He by no
means intends to identify himself with his fictitious Parson,
nor will he even undertake to say, that he was himself in all
instances personally present whenever the Parson comes
upon the scene: he will answer for the truth of nothing
beyond the detached incidents and descriptions.
Neither can these Sketches be used as an itinerary. Now
and then, though not often, names of places have been even
suppressed or altered, and incidents transplanted. They
will, indeed, give glimpses—slight, but true as far as they go—of
northern scenery, costume, travelling peculiarities, and,
above all, sport. They will contain practical hints and
available directions, but it is only in a general way. They
are not at all intended as a guide-book, nor will they at all
supersede the indispensable Murray.
The traveller, following upon the author’s footsteps, will
find himself lost at two points of the narrative—the village
of Soberud, and the locality of the Skal. In the former of
these the reason is evident enough—the author wishes to
convey an idea of what sort of men the Norwegian clergy
are, not to draw the attention of subsequent travellers to any
individual clergyman. In the case of the skal there is
another reason. Although Mr. Lloyd, the author of
“Northern Wild Sports,” being a great hunter, has always
contrived to get a shot at the bear, it is, nevertheless, true,
that an ordinary man sees about as much of a skal as a
regimental officer does of a battle—that is to say, he sees
about a dozen men on each side of him: and, it may well
happen, that the share of any given individual in the most
successful of skals, will amount to hearing a great deal of
firing, and, at the end of three or four days’ hard work, seeing
five or six carcasses paraded at the nearest village. In
order, therefore, to give his readers a graphic sketch of a
skal, without violently outraging probability, it was necessary
for the author to make his ground, that is to say, to imagine
ground of such a description that it was possible for his
characters to see what was going on. It is not altogether
fictitious either, for the traveller will find a good deal of it
in the Toftdahl Valley, though this was never, so far as the
author knows, the scene of a summer skal.
Similarly, also, though there is no such village as Soberud,
that being the name of a district near Larvig in which Sir
Hyde Parker’s fishing-lodge is situated and where the
author caught a good many salmon and trout, yet the
traveller will be able to patch together the fictitious country
from real and actual elements. The church is Hitterdahl—but
as there is no lake at Hitterdahl, one has been borrowed
for it from the country between Larvig and Frederiksvärn—the
“Lake of the Woods” is, really, about four miles north-east
of the village of Boen; the little lake where the diver
was shot, together with the forest about it, about as far to
the west of the same place; and the dark sombre pine wood
is, really, situated in the valley of the Nid. This last has
been slightly altered to suit the locality, for it is next to impossible
to lose oneself in the Nid forest, the river itself
being sufficient guide; but the rest is all drawn as accurately
as the author’s recollections, aided by his journals, will
enable him to depict it. With respect to the characters,
Tom, Torkel, and Jacob were attendants on the author and
his companions, and, though “a little rose upon,” to use a
nautical expression, are drawn from actual life, and in their
own proper names. The Captain and Parson, as has been
said before, are not to be considered actual characters; that
is to say, characters responsible as having done and said all
that they are represented to have done and said, but merely
as pegs upon which to hang the author’s personal experiences,
or pieces of information which he may have received. The
same may be said of Birger. It was necessary to associate
with the party an intelligent Swede, and Lieut. Birger was
chosen to fill that office. Bjornstjerna is wholly fictitious.
Hjelmar is a real character; and his adventure in the
Najaden frigate was related by him exactly as they are conveyed
to the reader, the steamer following out among the
islands the precise track of the chase. The author, however,
will not undertake to say that the actual name of Hjelmar
will be found on the watch and quarter bills of the frigate,
though Hulm was actually her captain, and was actually
buried near Lyngör, where his monument may be seen to
this day. Moodie is a real character, though his name, also,
is fictitious; or, rather, it is derived from a nick-name that
the author understands he has acquired either by his courage
or his foolhardiness: the appellation Modige, which is
pronounced very like our English name, Moodie, is translatable
either way. He does not, however, live at Gäddebäck,
which is the name of a house formerly occupied by
the celebrated Mr. Lloyd, the author of “Wild Sports of the
North,” and “Scandinavian Adventures,” to whose kindness
the author is indebted for his being able to describe, from
experience, the fishing of the Gotha, which is drawn as
accurately as the author’s recollection served him. The
traveller need not, however, fear the quicksand which
engulphed poor Jacob; that scene, and a very ridiculous one
it was, occurred on the Torjedahl just below Oxea. The
fisherman is cautioned not to be guided in his choice of a
river by the author’s success on the Torjedahl. It is too
clear, too much overhung, and too steadily and regularly
rapid to be a first-rate river under any circumstances. There
are few shallows in it, for there are no tributaries below the
Falls of Wigeland, and no salmon can get above them;
therefore, its breeding-ground is very limited indeed; probably
the flats of Strei, Oxea, and Mosse Eurd, form the whole
of it. The author’s success must be attributed to the fact of
his fly having been the first of his kind that ever floated on
those transparent waters.
The songs which are put into the mouths of the different
characters, are really Norwegian or Swedish, and are given
as specimens. They are translations by Hewitt, Forester,
Knightley, and others. Scandinavia has always been remarkable
for its lyrical poetry from the earliest times; and
the Gammle Norgé of Bjerregaard, which is given in
chapter viii., would seem to show that the cup of poetic
inspiration which Odin stole from the keeping of Gunlauth,
and stored up in Asgard, is not yet empty. By far the best
of the modern poets of the North is Grundtvig, but his subjects
are, for the most part, of a nature too solemn for a work
so light as this; a short specimen from his hymns is given in
chapter xviii. The Evening Hymn, in chapter xxiii., though
in common use in Norway, is not Norwegian; it belongs to
the ancient church, and is said to be as old as the days of
Ambrose and Augustine.
The legends are collected from all manner of sources:
many of them from Tom and Torkel, some from the Eddas
and Sagas, some from Malet and Knightley; they are all,
however, legitimate Scandinavian legends, believed implicitly
by some one or other.
One word about the voyage out. It signifies little to the
public when and where those incidents really happened—whether
in the North Sea, or in the Bay of Biscay, or in the
Mediterranean; but it signifies to them a great deal, to know
that these things actually did happen once, and may happen
again at any time.
The main incidents adapted to that fictitious voyage are
strictly and literally true. A large steamer was upon one
occasion in the precise situation ascribed to the Walrus,—and—in
the absence of its skipper, who for the time had
mysteriously disappeared—was saved by the promptness of
one of the passengers, precisely as is described in the narrative.
And it is also true that the same vessel, after a run
of not more than five hundred miles, did find herself fifty
miles out of her course. The compasses, no doubt, being in
fault, as they always are on such occasions—poor things!
These are important matters for the public to be made
acquainted with; for the public do very frequently go down
to the sea in steamers, and therefore any individual reader
may at any time find himself in the very same situation.
The author has enlarged upon this, in the faint hope of
drawing attention to these matters. He would suggest that
some sort of superintendence would not be altogether superfluous,
and that it is not entirely right that the lives of two
or three hundred men on the deep sea should be entrusted
to a skipper not competent to navigate a river, nor be committed
to a vessel so parsimoniously found as to be unable to
encounter casualties which might happen any day in a voyage
to Ramsgate.
On a subject so important as this, the author thinks it his
duty to state that these incidents, extraordinary as they may
appear, are in no way fictitious; that they did happen under
his own eye; and that the mate, the only real sailor on
board, did request of him, after the escape, a certificate that
he, at least, had done his duty. If that man should be still
alive, he possesses a most unique document, a certificate of
seamanship, signed by a clergyman of the United Church of
England and Ireland.
The skipper’s name the author does not think it necessary
to record. He is not likely to be employed again; for he is
one of those who have since immortalised themselves in the
public prints, by losing his vessel—a circumstance which, it
will readily be believed, did not excite any very great feelings
of surprise in the mind of the author.
CHAPTER I. PREPARATIONS.
“In every corner
Carefully look thou
Ere forth thou goest.”
Hávamál.
There is no saying more true than that “he who would
make a tour abroad, must first make the tour of London.”
There are miscellaneous articles of appropriate clothing to
be got together; there are bags, knapsacks, portmanteaus,
to be fitted. Above all, there are passports to be procured;
than which no plague more vexatious, more annoying, or
more utterly useless for any practicable or comprehensible
purpose, has been devised by modern ingenuity.
But if this is a necessary preliminary on ordinary occasions,
much more is it necessary when the contemplated
expedition has for its object sporting, and the northern
wildernesses for its contemplated locality. In addition to
the cares of ordinary travel, there are now tents, blankets,
cloaks, guns, rifles, to be thought of; rods, reels, gaffs, lines,
to be overhauled and repaired; material-books to be replenished,
and the commissariat department to be adequately
looked to. Deep and anxious, yet not without their pleasures,
are the responsibilities which rest on the shoulders of him
who undertakes the conduct of such an expedition as this.
Such were the thoughts that crossed the mind of the Parson,
as—business in his musing eye, care on his frowning
brow, and determination in his compressed lip—he stood
under the archway of the Golden Cross; his hands mechanically
feeling for the pockets of his fishing-jacket, which had
been exchanged for a clerical frock-coat more befitting the
locality, and his mouth pursing itself up for his habitual
whistle, which, had he indulged in it where he then stood,
might have been considered neither appropriate nor decorous.
“Don’t you think this list rather a long one,” said the
Captain, who had now joined him from the interior of the
hotel, holding in his hand a pretty closely-written sheet of
foolscap. “These are all very good things, and very useful
things no doubt, but how are we to stow them, and how are
we to carry them? Yours is anything but light marching
order.”
“Why should it be?”
“My principle is, that no traveller can be too lightly
equipped.”
“And a very good principle, too,” said the Parson.
“Heavy and useless incumbrances are the invariable attributes
of travelling Englishmen. You may know them by
their endless train of household goods, as you would know a
snail by its shell.”
“I believe,” said the Captain, “that foreign rail-roads are
regulated precisely so as to tax us English tourists. Travel
on whatever line you please in England, except that grasping
Brighton and South Coast, and you may take just exactly
what luggage you like; while abroad, the fare is so low and
the charge for luggage so high, that an Englishman generally
pays double; while the Frenchman, whose three spare collars
and bottle of hair-oil are in his pocket; and the German,
whose great tobacco-bag and little reticule of necessaries are
so constructed as to fit the allowance, are permitted to go
free.”
“Upon my word, I do not object to the tax; it is a
tax upon folly. What can be so absurd as such a miscellaneous
collection as Englishmen generally carry with them?
What can a traveller want beyond a dry suit of clothes and
half-a-dozen shirts and stockings?”
“There is a slight incongruity between your words and
your actions,” said the Captain, holding up the list.
“Tush! put that paper into your pocket, and tell me
what we are going to do. When I went on my reconnoitring
expedition to Norway last year, my fourteen-foot
rod, my fly-book, and a change of clothes constituted all
the cares of my life; and I contend, as you do, that no traveller
whose object is information has any business with
more. But we are going now more in the character of
settlers: we are not going to explore, but to enjoy that
which has been explored for us. Why should we not, therefore,
take whatever may make life enjoyable?”
“Only for fear we may be called upon to choose between
leaving them behind or leaving our purpose unaccomplished,”
said the Captain.
“Do you think I have calculated my ambulances so
badly? But come along. We must consult Fortnum and
Mason first. I can explain all that on our road.
“Considering how wild and uninhabited the greater part
of the country is, both in Norway and Sweden,” the Parson
resumed, as they crossed the pavement under Nelson’s pillar,
“it is astonishing how easily you may travel, and how little
impediment are your impedimenta. The posting regulations
are admirable. On every road there are posting stations at
convenient distances, and, by writing to these, the traveller
may command, at stated prices, every horse and cart in the
district.”
“And at moderate prices?” said the Captain, whose
means were not so abundant as to make him indifferent to
expense.
“No, not at moderate prices; for I do not call a penny
an English mile a moderate price, and this is what you
pay in Sweden; and in Norway it is not more than three-halfpence,
except in favoured spots in the vicinity of towns,
where they are permitted to charge three-fold. My plans,
therefore, are these. We are not going to travel, but to
visit certain fishing stations, most of which are at no great
distance from the coast; let us take, therefore, everything
that will make us comfortable at these different
settlements. As long as we coast, we have always traders of
some sort or other, and generally as nice and comfortable
little steamers as you can desire. When our road lies along
the fjords or lakes, boats are to be had from the post stations
on the same terms as you get the carts, a rower reckoning
the same as a horse; and when we want to take to the
land, we have but to order as many carts as will hold our
traps.”
“And how do we travel ourselves?” said the Captain.
“There is no carriage in the world so pleasant for fine
weather as the cariole; and I propose that we each buy
one. If we have to get them new, they do not cost above
thirty specie-dalers—that is to say, about seven or eight
pounds—with all their harness and fittings, in the very first
style; and you may always sell them again at the end of
your journey. That is the way the natives manage, and
they are terrible gadabouts. You always find some jobber
or other to take it off your hands. But the chances are that
we shall meet with a choice of second-hand carioles to begin
with. I gave twenty specie-dalers for mine last year, and
sold it for fifteen. Drammen is the place for these things, up
in Christiania fjord: it is the Long Acre of Norway.”
“What sort of things are these carioles?—Gigs, I suppose,
to carry two.”
“Not they—barely one: and no great room for baggage
either. A Scandinavian is of your way of thinking, and does
not trouble himself with spare shirts. One horse draws one
man, and that is all. If your gig carries two, you are charged
a horse and a half for it. In Sweden they have a sort of
light spring waggon, drawn by three horses, which will take
our followers admirably, with as much luggage as we like to
stow; and by having the collars of the harness made open at
the top, they will do for all the variety of horses we may
meet with on our road. This is better than the Norwegian
mode of engaging the farm carts; for in this, so much time
is lost at every stage in restowing luggage, that it becomes a
serious hindrance. However, in Norway we must do as the
Norwegians do. The light waggon would make a very unpleasant
conveyance down some of their mountain roads.”
“And how do you manage crossing the fjords and lakes?”
“Easily enough. Every ferry-boat will take a cariole; and
as for coasting, a cariole ranks as a deck passenger—that is to
say, about ten skillings for a sea mile, you paying for your
own passage in the cabin about twenty.”
“You travellers get so confoundedly technical. What
the deuce do you mean by a sea mile and a skilling? And
how am I to compare two things neither of which I know
anything about?”
“A regular traveller’s fault,” said the Parson. “There is
not a book written that does not abound with these absurdities.
Well, a skilling is a halfpenny in our money, and a sea
mile is four of our miles, and a land mile eight, nearly.”
“Pretty liberal in their measures of length,” said the
Captain.
“Why, they have plenty of it, and to spare; as you will
find when you come to travel from one place to another.
But their money is not plentiful, and they dole it out in very
small denominations indeed.”
“But here we are at Fortnum and Mason’s; and now for
the stores.”
“I observe, you always go to the most expensive places,”
said the Captain.
“That is because I cannot afford to go to the cheaper
ones,” said the Parson. “On such an expedition as this, you
should never take inferior stores. One hamper turning out
bad when unpacked at the end of a thousand miles or so of
carriage, will make more than the difference between the
cheapest and the most expensive shop in London. But, to
show you that I do study economy, I will resist the temptation
of these preserved meats; and, let me tell you, it is a
temptation, for up the country you will get nothing but what
you catch, gather, or shoot. This, however, is a necessary,”
pointing to some skins of portable soup; “there is not a
handier thing for a traveller; it goes in the smallest compass
of any sort of provisions; it is always useful on a pinch,
and some chips of it carried in the waistcoat pocket on a
pedestrian expedition, make a dinner, not exactly luxurious,
but quite sufficient to do work upon. This we must lay in a
good store of; in fact, if we have this, we need not be very
anxious about anything else. Other things are luxuries:
this is a necessary of life. Tea we must take: there is
nothing more refreshing after a hard day’s work, and you
cannot get it anywhere in the country. At least, what you
do meet with is altogether maris expers, being a villanous
composition of dried strawberry leaves and other home
productions. Oil, too—we must take plenty of that; we shall
want it for the frying-pan.”
“Have they no butter, then?” said the Captain.
“Yes, they have, and in great plenty too; of all varieties
of quality, from very bad, down to indescribably beastly.
They call it smör, pronouncing the dotted o like the French
eu; and I can assure you their very best butter tastes just as
the word sounds.”
“Well, then, I vote for some of these sardines, to take off
the taste.”
“With all my heart,” said the Parson; “they flavour
anything, when they are not made of salted bleak, as they
generally are—so does cayenne pepper. We may as well
have some cocoa paste, and a Bologna sausage or two may
prove a useful luxury.”
“What do you say to a cask of biscuits?” said the Captain.
“What sort of bread have they?”
“Do you recollect that old story told of Charles the
Twelfth, when he said of the bread brought to him, that it
was not good, but that it might be eaten? No one can tell
the heroism of that speech who has not eaten the Swedish
black bread, which is generally the only representative of
the staff of life procurable. It is gritty, it is heavy, it is
puddingy; if you throw it against a wall it will stick there—and
as for sourness, O, ye gods! they purposely keep the
leaven till it is uneatably sour, and then fancy it becomes
wholesome.”
“Well, I suppose it does,” said the Captain. “The Squire
used to say, that everything that was good, is unwholesome
or wrong; and I suppose the converse is true. But why not
take the biscuits?”
“Because we can get that which will answer our purpose
perfectly when we arrive at the country, and that without
the carriage, and at a much cheaper rate. There is not a
seaport town in all the coast where you may not get what
they call Kahyt Scorpor, a sort of coarse imitation of what
nurses in England feed babies upon, under the name of tops
and bottoms. They are made of rye, and are as black as my
hat; but they are very good eating, keep for ever, and are
cheap enough in all conscience, being from four to six skillings
to the pound, that is to say, threepence. In Norway
they call them Rö Kovringer.”
“We will take some rice, which very often comes in well
by way of vegetables in a kettle of grouse soup; and a good
quantity of chocolate, which packs easily, and furnishes a
breakfast on the shortest possible notice. And this, I think,
will do very well for the commissariat department of our
expedition.”
“And now for arms and ammunition,” said the Captain.
“Everything we are likely to want in that department, we
must take with us—guns, of course. Shot certainly may be
got at Christiansand, and the other large towns; up the country,
though, you will get neither that nor anything else: but
powder can be got nowhere, at least, powder that does not
give you an infinity of trouble in cleaning your gun, on account
of the quantity of deposit it leaves. That little
magazine of yours, with its block-tin canisters and brass
screw-stoppers, will hold enough for us two, unless we meet
with very good sport indeed, and in that case we must put
up with the manufacture of the country.”
“And for guns?” said the Captain. “I shall certainly take
that little pea-rifle I brought from Canada. I want to bring
down a bear.”
“We shall be more likely to get a crack at a seal, where
we are going,” said the Parson. “Bears are not so plentiful
in Norway as is generally supposed. People imagine that
they run about in flocks like sheep; however, it is possible
that there may be a bear-hunt while we are there. As for
rifles, I own I am partial to our own English manufacture.
Those little pea affairs are sensible things enough in their
own country, where one wanders for weeks on end through
interminable forests and desolate prairies on foot, and where
a pound of lead more or less in your knapsack is a matter of
consequence: but where we have means of transport, I see
no great sense in them. A pea, no doubt, will kill, if it hits
in the right place; but, like the old Duke, I have myself
rather a partiality for the weighty bullet. However, each
man to his fancy. The great merit of every gun, rifle, or
pistol, lies behind the stock,—a truth that dandy sportsmen
are apt to forget; a pea sent straight is better than a two-ounce
ball beside the mark.”
“Well,” said the Captain, laughing, “I think I can hold
my little Yankee pretty straight; but we shall want shot-guns
more than rifles. I may as well take that case I had
from Westley Richards, if you do not think it too heavy.”
“Not at all; you can always leave the case behind,
and take one gun in a waterproof cover when we go on
light-armed expeditions. This will furnish us with a spare
gun in case of accidents. I shall take my own old one,
and a duck gun—which last will be common property,
and I think with this we shall be pretty sufficiently armed.
Pointers and setters are of no great use, unless it is a steady
old stager, who will retrieve; for you must recollect there is
no heath, and very little field shooting. The character of
the country is cover, not very thick anywhere, and in many
places interspersed with glades and openings. We shall do
better with beaters: a water-dog, however, is indispensable.
Lakes and rivers abound, and so do ducks, teal, and snipes.”
“Have you thought about tents?” said the Captain.
“Well,” said the Parson, “I am not sure that tents are
indispensable, and they certainly are not a little cumbersome.
While we are fishing we can do very well without them: by
the water-side we can never be without a cottage of some
sort to put our heads under if it should come on bad weather,
for every house in the whole country stands on the banks of
some lake or river. I must say, though, when you get up
into the fjeld after the grouse and the ducks, or, it may be,
bigger game, it is another affair altogether. You may then
go twenty or thirty miles on end without seeing a human
habitation, unless you are lucky enough to meet with a säter,
and you know what a highland bothy is, for dirt and vermin.
But, even in the fjeld, I do not know that we should want
tents; you can have no idea of the beauty of a northern
summer’s night, and the very little need one has of any cover
whatever. I remember, last year, standing on one of their
barrows, smoking my pipe at the foot of an old stone cross,
coeval, probably, with St. Olaf, and shadowing the tomb of
some of his followers that Hakon the Jarl thinned off so
savagely. It was deep midnight, and there was not a chill
in the air, or dew enough on the whole headland to fill the
cup of a Lys Alf. The full round moon was shining down
upon me from the south, while a strong glowing twilight was
still lighting up the whole northern sky, where the sun was
but just hid under the horizon. The whole scene was as
light as day, with the deep solemn stillness of midnight all
the while. I could distinctly make out the distant fishing-boats;
I could almost distinguish what the men were doing
in them, through the bright and transparent atmosphere;
but at the same time all was so still that I could hear the
whistle of the wings, as flight after flight of wild-fowl shot
over me in their course to seaward, though they were so
high in the air that I could not distinguish the individual
birds, only the faint outline of the wedge-like figure in which
they were flying. I remember, that night, thinking how
perfectly unnecessary a tent was, and determining not to
bring one; and, that night at all events, I acted up to my
conviction; for, when my pipe was out, I slept at the foot
of the old cross till the sun warned me that the salmon were
stirring.”
“All very pleasant, no doubt,” said the Captain; “very
enjoyable indeed: but does it never rain at night in this
favoured land of yours?”
“Upon my word, it does not very often,” said the Parson;
“at least, not in the summer-time. Besides, you cannot conceive
how well the men tent themselves with pine-branches.”
“I do not quite like the idea,” said the Captain. “It is
all very well to sleep out when anything is to be got by it;
but, when there is nothing to be got by it but the rheumatism,
to tell you the honest truth—unlucky, as the old
women say it is—I rather prefer contemplating the moon
through glass.”
“Well, I will tell you what we can do,” said the Parson,
“and that will be a compromise. We can get some canvas
made up into two lug sails. These will help us uncommonly
in our passage over lakes and fjords, for their boats are
seldom well provided in that respect; and when we get to
our destination, lug sails—being square, or, to speak more
accurately, parallelogrammatical—will make us very capital
gipsy tents, with two pairs of cross-sticks and a ridge-pole,
which we shall always be able to cut from the forest. I
think we may indulge ourselves so far. As for waterproof
jackets, trousers, boots, and so forth, I need not tell you
about that: you have been out before, and know the value
of these when you want to fish through a rainy day. We
shall not have so dripping a climate here as we had in
Ireland, certainly, but we shall have one use for our waterproof
clothing which we had not there, and that is, when we
bivouac, vulcanised India-rubber is as good a defence against
the dew and the ground-damp as it is against the rain. A
case of knife, fork, and spoon apiece is absolutely necessary,
for they do not grow in the fjeld. A light axe or two, and
a couple of hand-bills, a hammer and nails, which are just as
likely to be wanted to repair our land-carriages as our boats.
If you are at all particular in shaving—which, by-the-by,
is not at all necessary—you may as well take a portable
looking-glass. You will not find it so easy to shave in the
reflection of a clear pool—a strait to which I was reduced
when I was there last year. And now, I think, we have
everything—that is to say, if you have taken care of the
fishing-tackle, as you engaged to do.”
“I have not taken care of your material-book.”
“No,” said the Parson; “but I have taken very good
care of that myself. Fly-making may be a resource to
fall back upon, if we meet with rainy weather, and my
book is well replenished.”
“Everything else,—rods, books, reels, gaffs, and so forth,—I
have packed in the old black box which we had with us
at Belleek, with spare line, and water-cord, and armed wire,
and eel hooks, and, in fact, everything that we can possibly
want; and a pretty heavy package it makes, I can assure you.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “we may go to sleep now with a
clear conscience. But so much depends upon a good start,
that a little extra trouble, on the first day, will be found to
save, in the end, a multiplicity of inconveniences.”
CHAPTER II. THE VOYAGE.
“Hurrah! hurrah! up she’s rising,—
Stamp and go, boys! up she’s rising,—
Round with a will! and up she’s rising,
Early in the morning.
What shall us do with a lubberly sailor?—
What shall us do with a lubberly sailor?—
Put him in the long-boat and make him bale her,
Early in the morning.
Hurrah! hurrah! up she’s rising.”—
&c. &c. ad infinitum.
Anchor Song.
Clear and joyous as ever a summer’s day came out of the
heavens, was the 12th of June, 18—, when the good ship
Walrus, with her steam up, her boats secured, and everything
ready for sea, lay lazily at single anchor off Blackwall-stairs.
The weather was as still and calm as weather might
be. The mid-day sun, brilliant and healthful, imparted life
and animation even to the black and unctuous waters, that
all that morning had, in the full strength of the spring tide,
been rushing past her sides. The breeze, light and fitful,
just stirred the air, but was altogether powerless on the glazy
surface of the stream, which sent back, as from a polished
and unbroken mirror, the exact double of every mast, yard,
and line of cordage, that reposed above it. The ships lay
calm and still. The outward-bound had tided down with the
first of the ebb, and were already out of sight, and the few
sails that still hung festooned in their bunt and clew-lines,
lay as motionless as the yards that held them. Like light
and airy dragon-flies, just flitting on the surface, and apparently
without touching it, the river steamers were darting
from wharf to wharf; while ever and anon a great heavy
sea-going vessel would grind her resistless way, defying wind
and tide, and dashing the black wave against the oily-looking
banks.
Steamer after steamer passed, each steadily bent on her
respective mission; and the day wore on—yet there lay the
Walrus, though her sea-signalling blue Peter had hung from
her fore-truck ever since day-light, and the struggling and
impatient steam would continually burst in startling blasts
from her safety-valves. The tide was slackening fast; the
chain cable, that all that forenoon had stretched out taut and
tense from her bows, like a bar of iron, now hung up and
down from her hawsehole, while the straws and shavings and
floating refuse of the great capital began to cling round her
sides.
“It is a great honour, no doubt, to carry an ambassador,
with Heaven knows how many stars of every degree of
Russian magnitude in his train,” said the Parson, who, seated
on the taffrail, with his legs dangling over the water, had
been watching the turning tide, and grumbling, as ship after
ship in the lower reaches began to swing at her anchors,
while three or four of the more energetic craft were already
setting their almost useless sails, and yo-ho-ing at their
anchors, preparatory to tiding up; “it is a very great
honour, and I hope we are all duly sensible of it; but, like
most great honours, it is a very particular nuisance. These
Russian representatives of an autocrat majesty must fancy
they can rule the waves, when all the world knows it is only
Britannia that can do that. They have let the whole of
this lovely tide pass by—(the Parson cast his eyes on the
greasy water)—and fancy, I suppose, that daddy Neptune is
bound to supply them with a new one whenever they please
to be ready for it.”
“Why, Mate!” said the Captain, as a smart sailor-like
looking fellow fidgeted across the quarter-deck, with an irregular
step and an anxious countenance; “is this what you
call sailing at ten a.m. precisely? Most of us would have
liked another forenoon on shore, but your skipper was so
confounded peremptory; and this is what comes of it.”
“What is one to do, sir?” said the Mate, who seemed
fully to participate in the Captain’s grievance. “These
Russians have taken up all the private cabins for their own
particular use, and occupy half the berths in the main and
fore-cabins besides—we cannot help waiting for them. They
have pretty well chartered the ship themselves—what can
we do? But,” continued he, after a pause, during which he
had been looking over the side, as the steamer now began
evidently to swing in her turn, “I wish we had gone down
with the morning’s tide.”
“We should have been at the mouth of the river by
this time,” said the Captain, “if we had started when we
ought.”
“Yes,” said the Mate, “and we should now be crossing
the dangerous shoals, with fair daylight and a rising tide
before us.”
“Why, surely you are not afraid,” said the Parson; “that
track is as well beaten as the turnpike road.”
The Mate shrugged his shoulders, and stepped forward,
giving some unnecessary orders in a tone unnecessarily sharp
and angry.
“Well, Birger, what news? Do you see anything of
them?”
The individual addressed was a smart, active, little man,
with a quick grey eye, and a lively, pleasant, good-humoured
countenance, who was coming aft from the bridge of the
steamer, on which he had been seated all the forenoon,
sketching, right and left of him groups of shipping on the
water and groups of idlers on the deck.
“Anything of whom?” said he. “Oh! the Russians.
No, I don’t know. I suppose they will come some time or
other; it does not signify—it is all in the day’s work. Look
here,”—and he opened his portfolio, and displayed, in wild
confusion all over his paper, the domes of Woolwich, the
houses of Blackwall, the forests of masts and yards in the
Pool, two or three picturesque groups of vessels, a foreign
steamer or two, landing her weary and travel-soiled passengers
at the Custom-house—and, over leaf, and in the background
as it were, slight exaggerations of the ungainly attitudes
in which his two friends were then sprawling. “If
you had found something as pleasant as this grumbling to
fill up your time with, you would not be wasting your eyes
and spoiling your temper in looking for the Russians. They
are going back to their own country, poor devils! no wonder
they are slow about it. Did you ever see a boy going to
school?”
“Birger is not over-fond of the Russians,” said the
Captain.
“Few Swedes are,” said Birger; “remember Finland and
Pomerania.”
“Besides, it is not over-pleasant to have a great White
Bear sitting perpetually at one’s gate, always ready to
snap up any of one’s little belongings that may come in
its way. The Russian fleet is getting formidable, and
Revel and Kronstadt are not very far from the mouth of
the Mälar.”
“I don’t know anything about that,” said Birger, gallantly;
“we are the sons of the men who, under Gustaf,
taught that fleet a lesson.”
“You are a gallant set of fellows,” said the Parson; “and
Sweden would be a precious hard nut to crack. But your
long-armed friends over the water know the value of a ring
fence, and would dearly like a seaboard. Only fancy that
overpowering country, which is now kept in order by the
rest of Europe, only because, just at present, it lies at the
back of creation, and cannot get out of the Baltic, Black, and
White Seas, to do harm to any one,—only fancy that pleasant
land, with its present unlimited resources, and Gothenborg
for its Portsmouth, and Christiania, and Frederiksvärn
and Christiansand for its outports—a pleasant vision, is
it not, Mr. Guardsman? Don’t you think it probable that
something of this sort has soothed the slumbers of the White
Bear we were speaking of, before this?”
“Did you ever hear of Charles the Twelfth? He taught
that White Bear to dance.”
“He taught that White Bear to fight,” said the Captain,
“and an apt scholar he found him. There was more lost
at Pultava than Charles’s gallant army.”
“There are men in Sweden yet,” said Birger, slightly
paraphrasing the legend of “Holger.”
“There are,” said the Parson; “and if you could only
agree among yourselves, you might have hopes of muzzling
the White Bear yet. Another union of Calmar?”
“O, hang the union of Calmar; there is no more
honesty in a Dane or a Norseman than there is in a Russ.
We are not going to have another Bloodbath at Stockholm.
My mother is a Lejonhöved,[1] and I am not likely
to forget that day.”
“I should have thought you more nearly connected with
the Svinhöved family,” said the Parson; “but depend upon
it, unless you men of the north can make up your quarrels,
the White Bear will chop you up in detail, and us after
you.”
Birger, who, in some incomprehensible way, traced his
descent from the founder of Stockholm, the great and terrible
Earl Birger, was a smart young subaltern in the Royal
Guards, and though his present dress—a modest and unpretending
blouse—was anything but military, his well-set-up
figure, firm step, and jaunty little forage cap stuck on one
side of his head, sufficiently revealed his profession. From
his earliest youth he had discovered a decided talent for
drawing, and in accordance with a most praiseworthy custom
in the Swedish service, he had been travelling for the last
twelvemonth at the expense of the Government, and was
now returning to the “Kongs Ofver Commandant’s Expedition,”
with a portfolio filled with valuable sketches, and a
mind no less well stored with military knowledge, which he
had collected from every nation in Europe. The Captain
had fallen in with him at the Swedish ambassador’s, and,
being himself something of an artist, had struck up on the
spot a sort of professional friendship with him. The pleasant
little subaltern was thus, from that time forward, enrolled
among their party; and though their acquaintance was not
yet of twenty-four hours’ standing, was at that moment
talking and chatting with all the familiarity of old and tried
friendship.
“Here come those precious rascals at last,” said he,
breaking off the conversation, as a train of at least half-a-dozen
carriages rattled down to the landing-place, and counts,
countesses, tutors, barons, children, dogs, governesses, portmanteaus,
bags, boxes, and trunks were tumbled out indiscriminately
on the landing-place. “Heaven and earth! if
they have not impedimenta enough for an army! and this is
only their light marching baggage either. All their heavy
articles came on board yesterday, and are stowed under
hatches. I’ll be bound we draw an additional foot of water
for them. Hang the fellows! they are as bad as Junot, they
are carrying off the plunder of half the country.”
“Like the Swedes under Oxenstjerna,” said the Parson;
“but what need you care for that? The plunder—if it is
plunder—comes from England, not Sweden.”
“It will lumber up the whole cabin, whether it comes
from the one or the other,” said Birger; “we shall not have
room to swing a cat.”
“We don’t want to swing a cat,” said the Parson; “that
is a Russian amusement rather than an English or a Swedish
one, if all tales be true; and you may depend upon it we shall
fare all the better for their presence: our skipper could never
think of setting anything short of turtle and venison before
such very magnificent three-tailed bashaws.”
“Yes,” said Birger, “they are going to Petersburgh, too,
where the chances are, the bashaws will find some good opportunity
of squaring accounts with the skipper for any ill-treatment,
before the steamer is permitted to sail.”
All the while this conversation was going on, the illustrious
passengers were rapidly accomplishing the short
passage from the shore to the steamer, a whole flotilla of
boats being employed in the service, while the hurried
click of the pauls, and the quick revolutions of the windlass,
as the chain-cable was hove short, showed that in the Captain’s
opinion, as well as that of the Mate, quite time enough
had been wasted already.
But the golden opportunity had been lost. English tides
respect no man, not even Russian ambassadors, and old
Father Thames was yet to read them a lesson on the text—
If you will not, when you may,
When you will, you shall have Nay.
While the vessel was riding to the ebb tide, as she had done
all the morning, a warp which had been laid out from her port
quarter would have canted her head well into the stream;
and the tide, acting on her starboard bow while the after-part
was in comparatively still water, would have winded
her downwards, almost before her paddles were in motion, or
her rudder could be brought to act. But the turn of the
tide had reversed all this. The vessel had indeed swung to
the flood, which by this time was rattling up at the rate of
five or six miles an hour, and thus her bowsprit was looking
the way she wanted to go; but a strong eddy was now bubbling
up under her starboard bow, and pressing it towards
the left bank, while a great lumbering Indiaman lay just
ahead of her, and a Hamburgh steamer, which had anchored
a little higher up on her starboard quarter, forbade all
reversing of the engine and thus getting out of the mess
stern foremost.
The moment the anchor broke ground the helm was put
hard a-port, and the paddles were set in motion; but though
from the tide alone the rudder had some effect, the
strength of the eddy was too much for her; round came
her head to port, as if she were going to take a leap at the
embankment.
“Hard a-port!—hard a-starboard!—ease her!—stop her!—turn
her a-head!” were the contradictory orders bawled out
almost simultaneously. If noise and shouting could have got
the steamer out of the scrape, there was no lack of it; but
all these cries, energetic as they were, produced no effect
whatever, beyond exciting a little suspicion in the mind of
our travellers (some of whom having been at sea before,
knew the stem of a ship from the stern) that the skipper was
not altogether a “deacon in his craft;” and thus giving a point
to the Mate’s silent but expressive shrug when the Parson
had alluded to the shoals at the river’s mouth. At last, an
indescribable sensation of grating, and a simultaneous volley
of heterogeneous oaths, such as sailors shot their guns with
on grand occasions, announced the fact that she had taken the
ground abaft.
This, however, as it turned out, was about the best thing
that could have happened, for it gave the skipper time to
collect his senses; or, what was more to the purpose, gave
the Mate time to whisper in his ear; and the rising tide was
sure to float her again in ten minutes. By this time a warp
had been got out to a ship anchored upon the Surrey side,
an expedient which any sailor would have thought of before
tripping his anchor in the first instance. The end of it was
passed round the windlass and hove taut, and as the rising
water slowly lifted the unlucky vessel from her sludgy bed
and a few turns brought a strain upon her, she gradually
slewed her head outwards. The steam was turned on, the
paddles went round; the black water began to fizz under her
counter, as if a million of bottles of stout had been poured
into it—she was at last a-weigh and fairly on her course, only
about six hours after her proper time.
“I tell you what,” said the Parson, as he dived down the
companion to inspect the submarine arrangements of the
cabin, “I leave this vessel at Christiansand, and I wish we
were fairly out of her. This fellow knows no more of sea-craft
than a tailor. Kind Providence shield us, or we shall
come to grief yet!”
CHAPTER III. THE SHIPWASH SAND.
“Our ship,
Which but three glasses since we gave out split,
Is tight and yare and bravely rigged, as when
We first put out to sea.”
Tempest.
One by one the travellers crept down to the cabin. It was
as uncomfortable as cabins usually are, perhaps more so, as
being more lumbered and more crowded; and the ordinary
space for locomotion had been miserably curtailed by a large
supplementary table, which the steward was lashing athwart
ship for the dinner accommodation of the supernumerary
passengers. These were standing about here and there, as
helpless and uncomfortable as people always are on first
starting, and were regarding one another with looks of suspicion
and distrust, as people who start by a public conveyance
always do regard one another.
In this the English part of the community was prominently
conspicuous. Denizens of a free land, it would seem as if
they considered it as their bounden duty to be continually exhibiting
their Magna Charta in the eyes of foreigners, and
to maintain their just rights to the very death against all
comers.
No rights, however, were invaded—there was no opportunity
of asserting the Magna Charta; all were equally shy
and equally miserable; till, by degrees, as the steamer crept
slowly down the river against the tide, they shook into their
places, and the ladies began to smile, and the ladies’ maids to
look gracious.
The Parson was an old stager. Knowing full well the
value of light and air in the present crowded state of the
cabin, he had very willingly assented to the apologetic invitation
of the steward, and had established himself comfortably
enough on the transom itself, upon which was spread for his
accommodation a horsehair mattress. There was no great
deal to spare in the height of his domicile, for it was as much
as he could conveniently manage to sit upright in it; but
it was, at all events, retired, airy, and not subject to be suddenly
evacuated by its occupant under the overpowering
influence of a lee lurch or a weather roll.
Totally disregarding the bustle and confusion in the cabin
below him, he was occupied in arranging and beautifying his
temporary home. The sill of one window formed his travelling
library, the books of which he had been unpacking from
his stores, and securing by a piece of spun yarn from the
disagreeable consequences of any sudden send of the ship in
a rolling sea. The next formed his toilet-table and workshop,
exhibiting his reels and fly-books, and the huge and well-known
“material book,” the replenishing of which had occupied
so much of his attention. The third was left empty, so
as to be opened and shut at pleasure.
Stretched on his mattress, with a guide-book in his hand,
and the map of Norway and Sweden at his side, he looked
from his high abode on the turmoil of the cabin deck,
with all the calmness and complacency with which the gods of
the Epicureans are said to regard the troubles and distresses
of mortals below.
And thus wore on the day. Dinner, tea, had been discussed—some
little portion of constraint and shyness had
been rubbed off—small knots of men were formed here and
there, discussing nothings and making conversation. Night
sank down upon the steamer as she ploughed her way across
the Nore, and the last of the talkers rolled himself up in his
bedclothes, and tried, though for a long while in vain, to
accustom himself to public sleeping.
It was still dark—for the time was hardly three in the
morning—when the Parson—who, accustomed to all the
vicissitudes of travel, had been making the most of the
hours of darkness, and had been for some time fast asleep—was
suddenly startled from his dreams by a furious concussion
on the rudder-case against which his head was
pillowed. The vessel became stationary, and the fresh
breezey hissing of the water in her wake and the tremulous
motion everywhere suddenly ceased.
“By George, she’s hard and fast!” said the Captain; who,
taking hint from the comfortable appearance which the
Parson had given to his own berth, had occupied the same
position on the starboard side, and was now invading the
Parson’s territories from abaft the rudder-case.
“What the devil is to be done now?”
“Nothing at all,” said the Parson; “it is no business of
ours; and I am sure it is not time to get up yet.”
“Well, but she has certainly struck on a sand.”
“I know that as well as you,” said the Parson; “but you
can’t get her off. Besides, there is not a bit of danger yet,
at all events, for the sea is as smooth as a mill-pond. There
they go, reversing their engine: much good that will do.
If there was any truth in that bump I felt, she is much too
fast aground for that. And the tide falling too!”—he continued,
striking a lucifer and looking at his watch. “Yes, it
is falling now, it has turned this hour or more.”
By this time the hurried trampling and stamping on deck
had roused up the passengers, few of whom could comprehend
what had happened, for there was no appearance of
danger, and the ship was as steady and firm as a house.
But there is nothing more startling or suggestive of alarm
than that rushing to and fro of men, so close to the ear,
which sounds to the uninitiated as if the very decks were
breaking up.
“Is it houraccan storrm?” shouted Professor Rosenschall,
a fat greasy-looking Dane, whom Birger had been hoaxing
and tormenting all the day before, partly for fun, and
partly because he considered it the bounden duty of a
true Swede to plague a Dane—paying off the Bloodbath by
instalments.
“Steward!” shouted the Professor, above all the din and
confusion of the cabin, “Steward, vinden er stærkere? is it
houraccan storrm?”
“Yes, Professor, I am sorry to say it is,” said Birger, who
had rolled himself up in a couple of blankets under the
table, upon which was reposing the weight of the Professor’s
learning. “It is what we call an Irish hurricane—all up
and down.”
“All up! O what will become of me—and down! O,
my poor wife. Hvilken skrækelig storrm,” he screamed out,
as half-a-dozen men clapped on to the tackle falls over his
head, with the very innocent purpose of lowering the quarter-boat,
and began clattering and dashing down the coils of rope
upon the deck. “Troer de at der er fore paa Færde?—do
you think there is any danger?”
What with the Professor’s shouting, and what with the real
uncertainty of the case, and the natural desire that every one,
even the most helpless, has to see their peril and to do something
for themselves, every passenger was by this time astir,
and the whole cabin was buzzing like a swarm of bees.
The Parson’s idea of sleeping was altogether out of the
question; and, the Captain having gone on deck, he very
soon followed him; for, notwithstanding his assumed coolness,
he was by no means so easy in his mind as he would
have his friends to understand. He had been at sea before
this, and was, at least, as well aware as they, that grounding
out of sight of land, is a very different thing from grounding
in the Thames.
The scene on deck was desolate enough. The steamer had
struck on the Shipwash, a dangerous shoal on the Essex
coast, distant about twenty miles from land; and a single
glance was sufficient to tell that there was not a chance of
getting her off for the next twelve hours, though the Skipper
was persisting in trying a variety of absurd expedients.
The crew were looking anxious—the passengers were looking
frightened; while the Skipper himself, who ought to have
been keeping up every one’s spirits, was looking more
wretched and more frightened than any one.
The day was just breaking, but a fog was coming on, and
the wind showed every symptom of freshening. The vessel,
indeed, had begun to bump, but the tide leaving her, that
motion left her also, and she began now to lie over on her
bilge. From some unfortunate list she had got in her stowing
(Birger declared it was the weight of the ambassador’s
despatch boxes), she fell over to windward instead of to
leeward, thus leaving her decks perfectly exposed to the run
of the sea, if the wind should freshen seriously.
When the Parson came on deck, the boats had just returned
from sounding. The Skipper had, indeed, endeavoured
to lay out an anchor with them—an object in which
he might possibly have succeeded, had he tried it at first and
before there was any great rush of tide, for the steamer had
struck at the very turn of the flood; but he had wasted his
time in reversing his engines and in backing and taking in
sails which there was no wind to fill; and thus, before he
had got his anchor lashed to the boat, which, like all passage
steamers’ boats, was utterly inadequate for the work, the
stream was strong enough to swamp boat, anchor, and all,
and it was fortunate indeed that no lives were lost.
It appeared from the soundings that the ship had not
struck on the main shoal, but on a sort of spit or ridge, the
neck of a submarine peninsula projecting from the S.W.
corner of it. Almost under her bows was a deep turnhole
or bay in the sand about two cables across, communicating
with the open water, beyond which, right athwart her hawse,
lay the main body of the shoal, so that the beacon which
marked its northern extremity, and which was now beginning
to show in the increasing light of the morning, lay broad on
her port bow, while the other end of the shoal was well on
her starboard beam; at half a cable length astern, and on her
port quarter and beam was the deep water with which the
turnhole communicated,—this being, in fact, the channel she
ought to have kept.
It was perfectly evident that nothing could be done till
the top of the next tide, and whether anything could be done
then was extremely problematical with the wind rising and
the sea getting up; experience having already shown that
there was not a boat in the steamer fit for laying out an
anchor.
However, for the present the water was smooth enough;
they were for the time perfectly safe and comfortable, lying,
as they did, under the lee of the shoal, patches of which
were now beginning to show just awash; while the seas
were breaking heavily enough certainly, but a full half-mile
to windward of them. The passengers, seeing nothing to
alarm them, and feeling their appetites well sharpened by
their early rising, began to lose their fears and to be clamorous
for breakfast; and the meal was served with a promptness
which, under the circumstances, was perfectly astonishing.
Those who know nothing fear nothing, and the jokes which
were flying about and the general hilarity which pervaded the
whole meeting, conveyed anything rather than the idea of
shipwrecked mariners; though, truth to say, this feeling did
not seem to be fully participated in by the Skipper, who presided
at what might very fairly be called the head of the table,
for it was many feet higher than the foot; he looked all the
while as if he was seated on a cushion stuffed with bramble
bushes.
The Parson, by way, he said, of utilising his moments, was
preparing for fishing—calculating, and rightly too, that the
whiting would congregate under the lee of the stranded ship.
He had made his preparations with characteristic attention
to his own comfort and convenience. The dingy, which was
hanging at the stern davits, formed at once his seat and his
fishing-basket; and as he had eased off as much of the lee
tackle fall as brought the boat to an even keel, the taffrail
itself afforded him a shelter from the wind, which was now
getting high enough to be unpleasant.
There he sat, hour after hour, busily and very profitably
employed, heeding the gradual advance and strengthening of
the tide only so far as its increasing current required the use
of heavier leads.
The Captain and Birger had been trying to walk the
sloping deck, a pursuit of pedestrianism under difficulties,
for it was very much as if they had been trying to walk
along the roof of a house. Time hangs heavily on the hands
of those who have nothing to do, and there was nothing to
do by the most active of sailors beyond hoisting the ensign
union downwards, and that might just as well have been left
undone too, for all the notice that was taken of it. Ship
after ship passed by—the foreign traders to windward, the
English through the shorter but more dangerous channel that
lay between them and the main land. Many of them were
quite near enough for anxious passengers to make out the
people in them reconnoitring the position of the unfortunate
Walrus through their telescopes. But if they did look
on her, certainly they passed by on the other side; it never
seemed to enter into the heads of one of them to afford assistance.
“Pleasant,” said Birger, “very. Is this the way your
sailors help one another in distress?”
“I am afraid so,” said the Captain.
“Gayer insects fluttering by
Ne’er droop the wing o’er those that die;
And English tars have pity shown
For every failure but their own.”
“You do not mean to say that they will not help us if
there really is danger?” said the Swede.
“Upon my word, I hope there will not be any real danger;
for if you expect any help from them, I can tell you
that you will not get it.”
“Not get it!” said Birger, who did not at all seem to
relish the prospect before him.
“That you will not. Sink or swim, we sink or swim
by our own exertions. Those scoundrels could not help
us without losing a whole tide up the river, a whole
day’s pay of the men, and so much per cent. on the cargo,
besides the chance of being forestalled in the market: do
you think they would do that to save the lives of half-a-hundred
such as you and me? Why, you have not learned
your interest tables; you do not seem to understand how
much twenty per cent. in a year comes to for a day. A
precious deal more than our lives are worth, I can tell
you.”
Birger looked graver still; drowning for a soldier was
not a professional death, and he did not relish the idea
of it.
The Captain continued his words of comfort. “I was
very nearly losing a brother this way myself,” he said. “He
was invalided from the coast of Africa, and had taken his
passage home in a merchant vessel. They had met with a
gale of wind off the Scillies; the ship had sprung a leak, and
when the gale had subsided to a gentle easterly breeze dead
against them, there were they within twenty miles of the
Longships, water-logged, with all their boats stove, and their
bulwarks gone. Timber ships do not sink very readily, and
incessant pumping had kept them afloat, but it was touch
and go with that—their decks awash, and the seas rolling in
at one side and out at the other. While they were in this
state, the whole outward-bound fleet of English ships passed
them, some almost within hailing distance, and all without
taking more notice of them than those scoundrels are taking
of us. They would, all hands, have gone to the bottom
together, in the very midst of their countrymen, if a French
brig had not picked them off and carried them into Falmouth.
It was so near a thing, that the vessel sank almost before
the last boat had shoved off from her side.
“Well,” said Birger, “if there is a selfish brute upon
earth, it is an English sailor.”
“Natural enough that you should say so, just at present,”
said the Captain; “though, as a Swede, you might have recollected
the superstition that prevails in your own country
against helping a drowning man. But the fact is, the fault
lies not so much with the sailors as with the insurance regulations
at Lloyds’. Likely enough, every one of these fellows
has a desire to help us; but if they go one cable’s length
from their course to do so, or if they stay one half-hour by
us when they might have been making their way to their
port, they vitiate their insurance. Man is a selfish animal,
no doubt—sea-going man as well as shore-going man—and it
is very possible that some of them would rather see their
neighbours perish than lose the first of the market; but laws
such as these render selfishness imperatively necessary to
self-preservation, and banish humanity from the maritime
code.”
“I wish all Lloyds’ were on the Shipwash,” said Birger,
“and had to wait there till I picked them off.”
“Yes,” said the Captain; “or that the House of Commons
were compelled to take a winter’s voyage every year
in some of these company’s vessels. I think, then, they
might possibly find out the advantage of certain laws and
certain officers to see them put in force, in order to prevent
their going to sea so wretchedly found. There is nothing
like personal experience for these legislators. This vessel
has not a boat bigger than a cockle-shell belonging to her.
Did you not hear how nearly the Mate was lost last night,—and
he is the only real sailor in the ship—when they were
trying to lay out an anchor—a manœuvre which, I see, they
have not accomplished yet?”
“Hallo! this is serious,” said Birger, as a heavy sea struck
the weather paddle-box, and broke over them in spray: for
the tide had been gradually rising, without, as yet, raising
the ship; and, as she lay over to windward, the seas that now
began to break upon her starboard bow and side, deluged her
from stem to stern.
“Upon my soul,” said the Captain, “I don’t like this,
myself; and there sits the Parson, fishing away, as quietly as
if he were on the pier at Boveysand. By Jove, Nero fiddling
while Rome was burning, is a fool to him! Why, Parson,
don’t you think there is some danger in all this?”
“‘Er det noget Færde?’ as your friend the professor
would say,” said the Parson, laughing. “I do not think it
improbable that the Walrus will leave her bones here, if you
mean that.—Stop, I’ve got another bite!”
“Confound your bite! If she leaves her bones here, we
shall leave ours too; for she has not boats for the fourth of
us, the devil take them! and as for expecting help from
these rascally colliers——”
“You may just as well fiddle to the dolphins,” said the
Parson. “I know that; but do you see that little cutter,—that
fellow, I mean, on our quarter, that has just tacked?
and there beyond her is another, that is now letting fly her
jib-sheet. I have been watching those fellows all the morning,
beating out from Harwich. They are having a race, and
a beautiful race they make of it: you cannot tell yet which
has the best of it. If those cutters were going over to the
Dutch coast, you may depend upon it they would not make
such short boards. There—look—the leading one is in stays
again. Those fellows are racing for us, and with our ensign
Union down, as we have it, we shall make a pretty good
prize for the one that gets first to us. Those two are pilot-boats.
You may depend upon it, we are not going to lay
our bones here, whatever comes of the Walrus.”
The Parson’s anticipations were realised sooner than he
expected, for a long low life-boat, that nobody had seen till
she was close alongside, came up, carrying off the prize from
both competitors—and preparations were begun, which
ought to have been completed hours before, for laying out
an anchor.
Before long, the cutters also had worked up and anchored
on the lee edge of the shoal, to the great relief of every one
on board; for the seas were by this time making such a
breach over her, that no one could be ignorant of the
danger.
Suddenly, and without preparation, she righted, throwing
half the passengers off their legs, and very nearly precipitating
the Parson into the sea; who took that as a hint to
leave his seat in the dingy. Soon afterwards she began to
bump, first lightly, and then more heavily, and the paddles
were set in motion. The windlass was manned and worked;
but the shifting sand afforded no good holding-ground for
the anchor, which had not been backed—nor, indeed, had
any precautions been taken whatever—and as soon as there
was any strain upon it, it came home and was perfectly
useless.
The ship now was hanging a little abaft the chess-tree, on
the very top of the spit; but the stern was free, and the
bows were actually in the deep water of the turnhole, while
at every bump she gained an inch or two: just then, the
anchor coming home, and the tide taking her under the port
bow, she ran up in the wind, and pointed for the very centre
of the shoal.
“Why the devil don’t you set your jib?” bellowed out
the Captain, who had begun to get excited. “Where the
deuce is that know-nothing Skipper of yours?”
“Upon my soul, sir, I do not know,” said the Mate, who
was standing at the wheel, and was looking very anxiously
forward.
“Then why don’t you go forward and set it yourself? We
shall be on the main shoal in two minutes, if she floats.”
“I know it, sir,” said the Mate; “but I dare not leave
my post. We shall all have to answer for this; and if I am
not where the Skipper has placed me, he will throw the
blame upon me.”
“Then, by George, I don’t care that for your Skipper.
Come along, boys, we’ll run up the jib ourselves.”
And away he rushed, pushing and shouldering his way
along the crowded decks, among idlers, and horses, and carriages,
followed by his own party, and a good many of the
foreigners also; till he emerged on the forecastle, when,
throwing down the jib and fore-staysail hallyards from the
bitts and clattering them on the deck, while the Parson
went forward to see all clear, he called out to the Russian
servants, who, wet and frightened, were cowering under the
carriages—
“Here, you slaveys, come out of that—clappez-vous sur
ceci—clap on here, you rascals—rousez-vous dehors de ces
bulwarks. What the devil is Greek for ‘skulking?’”
Whether the Russians understood one word of the Captain’s
French, or whether they would have understood one word
of it had they been Frenchmen, may be doubted; but his
actions were significant enough; and the men, who only
wanted to be told what to do, clapped on to the jib and fore-staysail
hallyards as well and as eagerly as if they had known
what was to be done with them; here and there, too, was
seen a blue-jacket, for the seamen had no wish to skulk, if
there had been any one to command them.
“Gib mig ropes enden!” shouted Professor Rosenschall, who
had caught the enthusiasm, and was panting after them,
though a long way astern.
“Birger will do that for you,” said the Parson, laughing,
but without pausing for one moment from his work—“Birger!
the Professor wants a rope’s-end.”
“Vær saa artig!” said Birger, tendering him the signal
hallyards, the bight of which he had hitched round a spare
capstan-bar on which he was standing. For Birger, like most
Swedish soldiers, had passed a twelvemonth in a midshipman’s
berth, where, whatever seamanship he had picked up,
he had, at all events, learned plenty of mischief.
“Away with you!” roared the Captain. “Up with the
sails—both of them.”
“Skynda! Professor, Skynda!” echoed Birger, leaping off
the capstan-bar as he spoke, and thus causing the Professor
to pitch headlong among the trampling men.
“Up with it! up with it, cheerily! look there, she pays
off already!” as the two sails flew out; the jib, which was
not confined by any stay, bagging away to leeward and hanging
there, but still drawing and doing good service. “Up
with it, boys—round she comes, like a top! Hurrah, that’s
elegant!” as a sea struck her full on the quarter, which, by
her paying off, had now become exposed to it. On it came,
breaking over the taffrail and deluging the idlers on the
poop, but at the same time giving her the final shove off the
ridge. “Off she goes! Shout, boys, shout! and wake up
that Skipper, wherever he is!”
And amid the most discordant yells that ever proceeded
from heterogeneous voices—Danish, Dutch, Swedish, German,
and Russ, above which, distinct and ringing, rose the
heart-stirring English cheer—the steamer, once more under
command of her rudder, buzzed, and dashed her way into the
open sea.
CHAPTER IV. THE LANDFALL.
“Bewilderedly gazes
On the wild sea, the eagle
When he reaches the strand:
So is it with the man;
In the crowd he standeth
And hath but few friends there.”
Hávamál.
“Nothing gives one so lively an idea of eternal, irresistible
progress—of steady, inexorable, unalterable fate, as the
ceaseless grinding of these enormous engines.” Thus moralised
Birger, as, two days after the events recorded in the last
chapter, he stood with his brother officer, the Captain, on the
grating that gave air into the engine-room. “In joy or in
sorrow, in hope or in fear, on they go—grinding—grinding,
never stopping, never varying, never hurrying themselves:—the
same quiet, irresistible round over and over again: we
go to bed—we leave them grinding; we get up—there they
are, grinding still; we are full of hope, and joy, and expectancy,
looking out for land and its pleasures—they go no
faster; they would go no faster if we went to grief and
misery. If you or I were to fall dead at this moment, the
whole ship would be in an uproar, every man of them all
showing his interest, or his curiosity, one way or other—but
still would go on, through it all, that eternal, everlasting
grinding.”
“Everlasting it is,” said the Captain, who was not at all
poetical, and who was anxious to be at his journey’s end.
“This steamer is the very slowest top I have ever had the
misfortune to sail in. By every calculation we should have
made the coast of Norway ages ago; I have been on the look
out for it ever since daylight; but six, seven, eight, nine, and
no coast yet. Breakfast over, and here are your everlasting
wheels of fate grinding away, and not one bit nearer land, as
far as I can see, than they were before. I’ll be hanged if the
wind is not getting northerly too,” he said, looking up, as the
fore and aft foresail over their head gave a flap, as if it would
shake the canvas out of the bolt-ropes. “I thought so.
Look at them brailing up the mainsail! wind and steam
together, we never got seven knots out of this tub; I wonder
what we shall get now—and the sea getting up too?”
Several consecutive pitches, which set the horses kicking,
and prostrated one-half of the miserable, worn-out, dirty-looking
deck passengers, seemed fully to warrant the Captain’s
grumbling assertion, and they scrambled back to the poop;
upon which most of the passengers were by this time congregated,
for the sun was shining out brightly, and the wind,
though there was plenty of it, was fresh and bracing.
They had evidently by this time opened the north of
Scotland, for the slow, heaving swell of the Northern Ocean
was rolling in upon them; and this, meeting the windwash
knocked up by the last night’s south-easterly breeze, was
making a terrible commotion in the ship, and everything and
everybody belonging to it.
“Land! land!” shouted the Parson, who had climbed upon
the weather bulwarks, and was holding on by the vang to
steady his footing. “Land, I see it now; where could our
eyes have been? There it is, like blue clouds rising out of
the water.”
There was a general move and a general crowding towards
the spot to which he was pointing, but just then the ship
pitched bowsprit and bows under, jerking the Parson off his
legs; upsetting every passenger who had nothing to hold on
by, and submerging half-a-dozen men on the jib-boom, who
were occupied in stowing the now useless jib. They rose
from their involuntary bath puffing and blowing, and shaking
the water from their jackets, but continuing their work as
if nothing had happened.
There, however, was the land, beyond a doubt. No Cape
Flyaway, but land—bold, decided, and substantial. Whether
it was that people had not looked for it in the right direction,
or had not known what to look for; or whether, as was most
likely, a haze had hung over the morning sea, which the sun
had now risen high enough to dispel; whatever was the
cause, there stood the hitherto invisible land, speaking of
hope and joy, and quiet dinners, and clean beds, and creating
a soul under the ribs of sea-sickness.
Long, however, it was before they neared it,—hour after
hour; and Birger’s everlasting wheels went grinding on, and
the mountains seemed no higher and no plainer than they
were when the Parson had first descried them. But the day
had become much more enjoyable, the wind had moderated,
and the swell was less felt, as the land began to afford some
protection.
The Captain and his friend Birger had by this time established
themselves on the break of the poop, with their
sketch-books in their hands, nominally to sketch the outline
of the land, really to caricature the Russian magnates during
their hours of marine weakness. While Monsieur Simonet,
one of the numerous tutors, a venturesome Frenchman,
climbed warily up the main shrouds to get a better view,
creeping up step by step, ascertaining the strength of each
rattlin before he ventured his weight upon it, and holding on
to the shrouds like grim Death. Quietly and warily stole
after him the Mate, with a couple of stout foxes hitched
round his left arm.
“Faith,” said Birger, “they are going to make a spread-eagle
of him. Well, that is kind; it will prepare him for
his new country; it is in compliment to Russia, I suppose,
that they turn him into the national device.”
But the Mate had reckoned without his host. The Frenchman
made a capital fight for it, and in the energy of his
resistance, entirely forgot his precarious position; he kicked,
he cuffed, he fought gallantly, and finally succeeded in seizing
his adversary’s cap, a particularly jaunty affair with gold
lace round it, in imitation of her Majesty’s navy, of which
the Mate was especially proud. This, the Frenchman swore
by every saint the Revolution had left in his calendar, he
would heave overboard; and before the Captain had completed
the little sketch he was taking of the transaction, a
capitulation was entered into by the belligerents upon the
principle of the statu quo, and the discomfited Mate descended,
leaving his adversary to enjoy at once his position
and his victory.
By this time sails, unseen before, had begun to dot the
space which still intervened between the steamer and the
iron-bound coast before it, which now rose stern and rugged,
and desolately beautiful, clothed everywhere with a sort of
rifle-green, from the dark hues of the fir and juniper, for
none but the hardy evergreens could bear the severe blasts
of even its southern aspect; few and far between were these
sails at first, and insignificant did they seem under the
abrupt and lofty mountains which rose immediately out of
the sea, without any beach or coast-line, or low-land whatever;
but, as they neared the land, the moving objects
assumed a more conspicuous place in the landscape.
There was the great heavy galliasse with pigs from Bremen
or colonial produce from Hamburg—a sort of parallelogram
with the corners rounded, such as one sees in the
pictures of the old Dutch school two hundred years ago—not
an atom of alteration or improvement in its build since
the days of old Van Tromp; the same flat floor and light
draft of water—the same lumbering lee-boards—the same
great, stiff, substantial, square-rigged foremast, with a little
fore and aft mizen, which looked like an after-thought; she
might be said to be harrowing the main instead of ploughing
it, according to our more familiar metaphor, with a great
white ridge of foam heaped up under her bows, and a broad,
ragged wake like that of a steamer.
And there was the Norwegian brig returning from Copenhagen
with a cargo of corn for Christiansand; rough and
ill-found, nine times in ten not boasting so much as a foretop-gallant
sail, yet tight and seaworthy, and far better than she
looked; built after the model of a whale’s body, full forward
and lean aft, with a stern so narrow that she looked as if she
had been sailing through the Symplegades, and had got
pinched in the transit.
Then came a fleet of a dozen jagts from the north, the
tainted breezes advertising their fishy cargo, as they came
along. These were the originals of the English yacht, which
unspellable word is merely the Norwegian jagt, written as it
is pronounced in the country, for Norway is the only nation
besides England that takes its pleasure on the deep sea.
With their single great unwieldy sails, their tea-tray-shaped
hulls, and towering sterns, they looked like a boy’s first essays
in the art of ship-building.
But Bergen furnishes a far more ship-shape description of
craft—sharp fore and aft vessels are the Bergeners, looking
as if they had all been built on the same lines, with little, low
bulwarks, and knife-like cutwaters, as if they were intended
to cut through the seas rather than to ride over them, sailing
almost in the wind’s eye, and, when very close hauled indeed,
a point on the other side of it—at least, so their skippers
unanimously assert, and they ought to know best,—at all
events, ensuring a wet jacket to every one on board, be the
weather as fine as it may, from the time they leave the port
to the time they return to it.
Then came, crowding all sail and looking as if they were
rigged for a regatta, with their butterfly summer gear and
tapering spars, the lobster smacks from Lyngör, and Osterisö,
and Arendahl, and Hellesund: and a regatta it was on a
large scale, with the wide North Sea for a race-course, omnivorous
London for the goal, and its ever-fluctuating markets
for a prize. These were sharp, trim-looking vessels, admirably
handled, and not unworthy of a place in the lists of any
Royal Yacht Club for beauty or for speed; somewhat less
sharp, perhaps, than the Bergeners, but scarcely less
weatherly or sitting less lightly on the seas.
The near approach to the land, which had been for so
many hours looked for in vain, seemed to bring no great
comfort to the unfortunate Skipper, who kept fidgetting
about the decks with a perplexed and anxious countenance.
Glasses were brought on deck, and rubbed and polished over
and over again, and directed in succession to every mountain
peak that showed itself, and every inlet that opened before
them. Then, little mysterious consultations were held
between the Skipper and his First Mate; then, one man was
sent for, then another; then more whispering, and more
mystery, more shaking of the heads and examination of
charts; then an adjournment to the bridge, on which the
Parson was then standing, taking his survey of the craft in
sight, and enjoying the sunshine. At last, the whispering
took a more objurgatory tone; more in the way of a growl,
with now and then a short, emphatic sentence of eternal
condemnation on somebody’s eyes, or blood, or other personalities,—as
is the custom of those who “go down to the sea
in ships.”
The first distinct words which met the Parson’s ear, came
from the lips of the Skipper, pronounced in a sharp, acid,
querulous sort of tone; such as superiors sometimes indulge
in, when they are fixing on the shoulders of an inferior the
blame they shrewdly suspect all the while, ought, if justice
had its due, to rest on their own.
“You are not worth your salt, sir,” he said; “you are not
worth your salt—you ought to be ashamed of wearing a
blue jacket, you know-nothing, lubberly ...” and so
forth; expressions by no means unusual at sea, certainly,
but sounding somewhat misplaced in the present instance,
inasmuch as if there was any one in the whole ship not
worth his salt, the speaker certainly was the man, in his own
proper person.
“Upon my soul, sir,” said the man addressed, “if I tried
to tell you anything about it, I should be only deceiving you.
I know the coast about Christiansand as well as any man. I
have traded to that port for years, and taken the old brig in
and out twenty times; but the land before us is all strange
to me. I never saw those three hummocky hills before in
my life. This is not Christiansand.”
“Well, but if it is not, does Christiansand lie east or west
of us—which way am I to steer?”
The man raised his glass again, and took a long and
anxious survey, but apparently with no better result.
“Really, sir, I cannot say. I cannot make it out at all;
there is not one single sea-mark that I know.”
“Then what the devil did you ship for as a pilot, if you
knew nothing of your business?” Here followed another
strong detachment of marine expletives.
“I shipped as a pilot for Christiansand, sir; and, for the
Sound, and for Copenhagen; and can take the steamer into
any one of them, if she drew as much as a first-rate; but this
place is neither one nor the other of them, and I never called
myself a coasting pilot.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “this seems to me sad waste of
breath and temper; if you are a couple of lost babes, why
do you not ask your way? There lies a pilot-boat, as you
may see with your own eyes,” pointing to a little cutter exhibiting
in the bright sunshine a single dark cloth in a very
white mainsail, which, with her foresheet to windward, lay
bobbing about in the swell right ahead of them. “That is a
pilot-boat, and I suppose she knows the way, if you do not—why
do you not hail her?”
The Skipper looked askance at the Parson, as if he meditated
some not very complimentary reply about minding
one’s own business; for, conscious of the estimation in which
he was himself held by the fishing party, who were in no
way chary of their remarks, he regarded them with anything
but friendly feelings. But the advice was too obviously
sound to be neglected, and the Skipper was not by any means
anxious that the magnates on the poop should become
acquainted with the fact that he was at sea in more senses
than one.
In a few minutes the steamer was alongside the little
shrimp of a cutter, taking the wind out of her sails by her
huge unwieldy hull.
A short conversation passed between them, which as one-half
was sworn down the wind in very loud English, and the
other half came struggling up in broad Norske, was not
attended with any very satisfactory results.
Birger offered his services.
“You may as well ask them what they will take us into
Christiansand for,” said the Skipper; “that will soon make
them find their English.”
A few more unintelligible words were exchanged, and
Birger burst out laughing.
“They cannot do it,” he said: “they cannot take us into
Christiansand: not only they are not able, but they are not
licensed to ply so far.”
“Why! where are we, then?” said the astonished Skipper.
“Off Arendahl!” said Birger.
“Arendahl!” broke in the Parson, “why, that is fifty miles
to the westward of your course.”
“Well, I cannot conceive how that can be,” said the
Skipper. “Something wrong, I am afraid, with the compasses.
We ought not to be so far out; we steered a straight
course, and—”
“That did you not,” said Birger, “whatever else you did;
the Captain and I have been studying the theory of transcendental
curves from your wake.”
“I can tell you how it is,” said the Parson; “you have
steered your course as you say, and have not allowed for the
easterly set of the current, and you imagine how this must
have acted upon us under the influence of these rolling swells
which we have had on our port bow ever since daylight,
every one of which must have set us down a fathom or two
to leeward. Don’t you recollect that we lost three line-of-battle
ships coming home from the Baltic by this very
blunder. Compasses!” he continued, sotto voce, “a pretty
lot of blunders are thrown on those unfortunate compasses,
in every court-martial. However,” he continued, aloud,
“there is no help for it,—thankful ought we to be it is no
worse; there is but one thing to be done now, and what that
one thing is, you know as well as I.”
This the Skipper did know. A close survey of the remaining
coals took place, and it was decided that notwithstanding
the expenditure that took place on the day on the
Shipwash, there might, with economy, be enough for six
hours’ consumption, Birger inquiring innocently, “whether
the Skipper had not anything that would burn in his own
private stores?”
The steamer’s course was accordingly altered nine or ten
points, for the coast from Arendahl to Christiansand trends
southerly, and she had actually overshot her mark, and gone
to the northward as well as to the eastward of her port, so
that land which had hitherto lain before them, was thus
brought abaft the starboard beam.
To those who, like our fishermen, were not exactly making
a passage, but exploring the country, and to whom it was a
matter of indifference whether they dined at five or supped
at eleven, the Skipper’s blunder was anything but an annoyance.
It afforded them an opportunity, not often enjoyed,
of seeing the outside coast of Norway; for in general, almost
all the coasting trade, and all the passenger traffic, is carried
on within the fringe of islands that guard the shores. An
absolute failure in the article of fuel, and a week or so of
calm within a few miles of their port, might have been a
trial to their tempers; but there was no such temptation to
grumbling on the present occasion; and, besides, the afternoon
and evening were bright and warm, the wind had sunk
to a calm, and though the ever restless sea was heaving and
setting, the swells had become glassy, soft, and regular.
Cape after cape, island after island of that inhospitable
coast was passed, and not a sign of habitation, not a town,
not a village, not even a fisherman’s cottage, or a solitary
wreath of smoke was to be seen. The land seemed utterly
uninhabited, and, as they drew out from the stream of trade,
the very sea seemed tenantless also.
The fact is, that the whole coast of Norway, and of Sweden
also, is fringed with islands, in some places two or three deep,
which are separated from the main and from each other by
channels more or less broad, but always deep. Of these
islands, the outer range is seldom inhabited at all, never on
the seaward sides, which, exposed to the first sweep of the
southwester, are either bare, bold rocks, or else nourish on
their barren crags a scanty clothing of stunted fir or ragged
juniper, but afford neither food nor shelter, and where that
necessary of life, fresh water, is very rarely to be met with.
The whole of the coasting trade passes within this barrier,
and the houses and villages, of which there are many, lie
hidden on the sheltered shores of the numerous channels; so
that, however well peopled the coast may be—and in some
places population is by no means scanty—neither house, nor
boat, nor ship, except the foreign trade as it approaches or
leaves the coast, is ever seen by the outside coaster.
The shades of evening were already falling, and that at
midsummer in Norway indicates a very late hour indeed,
when the glimmer of a light was seen through the scrubby
firs of a cape-land island, occasioning a general rush of expectant
passengers to the bridge, for some had begun to doubt
the very possibility of discovering this continually retreating
port, and to class it with the fairy territories of Cloudland
and Cape Flyaway; while others, with more practical views
and less poetical imaginations, had been contemplating with
anxiety the rapidly decreasing coals in the bunkers. Both
parties, poets and utilitarians alike, had their fears set at rest
when, on rounding the point, the long-lost lighthouse of
Christiansand hove in sight—tall, white, pillar-like, looking
shadowy and ghost-like, against the dark background behind
it. The poets might have thought of the guardian spirit of
some ancient sea king, permitted to watch over the safety of
his former dwelling-place, for Christiansand is renowned in
story. To the utilitarians it might, and probably did, suggest
visions of fresh vegetables, and salmon, and cod, and
lobsters, for all of which that town is famous.
A bare, low, treeless slab of rock forms its site, a mere
ledge, about a quarter-of-a-mile long, and sufficiently low, and
sufficiently in advance of the higher islands, to form in itself
a danger of no small magnitude during the long winter
nights. It maintains on its withered wiry grass half-a-dozen
sheep and a pig or two, the property of the lighthouse-keeper,
which being the first signs of life and vestiges of
habitation which had greeted the travellers during the afternoon’s
steaming, were regarded with an interest of which
they were not intrinsically deserving.
In a very few minutes, the heaving of the outside sea was
exchanged for the perfect calm and deep stillness of the
harbour, with its overhanging woods, its long dusky reaches,
its quiet inlets, and mysterious labyrinthine passages, among
its dark, shadowy islands. These became higher and more
wooded as the steamer wound her way among them, deepening
the gloom, and bringing on more rapidly the evening
darkness. All, however, looked deserted and uninhabited,
till suddenly, on opening a point of land, high and wooded
like all the rest, the town of Christiansand lay close before
them, dark and indistinct in the midnight twilight, without
the twinkle of a solitary lamp to enliven it, or to indicate the
low houses from the rocks which surrounded and were confused
with them.
“Hurrah!” said the Parson, as the plunge of the anchor
and the rattle of the chain cable broke the stillness of
the night. “Some of us are not born to be drowned, that
is certain.”
CHAPTER V. CHRISTIANSAND.
“Dark it is without,
And time for our going.”
Skirnis Fär.
At the time the Walrus dropped her anchor, all seemed as
still and lonely as if no sound had ever awakened the silence
of the harbour. The chain cable, as it rattled through the
hawse-hole, had even a startling effect, so solitary, so unusual
was the sound. The place seemed as if it had been uninhabited
since creation; for though the town lay close before
it, the houses, low and lightless, looked like a collection of
fantastic rocks; but scarcely had she felt the strain of her
cable, when her stern swung into the middle of a group of
boats, which seemed as if they had risen from the depths of
the sea, so sudden and unexpected was their appearance, and
crowds of earnest, business-like, trafficing Norsemen were
clambering up her sides at every practical point. Norway
has no inns, and Norway is said to be a place of universal
hospitality, where every one is delighted to receive the wandering
guest—and so every one is, and delighted to receive
the wandering guest’s money also, with two or three hundred
per cent. profit on the outlay. The real fact is, every house
in Norway is an inn, to all intents and purposes, except the
license; and in places like Christiansand, every man is his
own touter. Whatever is the noise and confusion of a vessel
arriving at a French or Flemish port, on this occasion it was
doubled, not only from the number and assiduity of hospitable
hosts, but also from the unusual quantity and quality of
the passengers. It was not every day that a Russian ambassador
graced with his august presence, and his distinguished
suite, an obscure trading town of Norway; and its
citizens, inferior to no nation in the world in the art of
turning an honest penny, were in two moments as well aware
of the fact, and as fully determined to profit by it, as the
Dutch landlady, who, having charged our second George the
value of ten pounds sterling English for his two eggs and his
bit of toast, informed him that though eggs were plentiful in
her country, kings were not.
The confusion which pervaded the Walrus’s decks and
cabins, the cries, the calls, the screams that were flying
about unheeded; the extraordinary oaths that jostled one
another, out of every language of Saxon, Russian, or
Scandinavian origin; the obtrusive civilities of the touters;
the officiousness of volunteering porters; the mistakes
about luggage; the anxieties, the rushings to and fro, in
which everybody is seeking for everybody, may easily be
imagined; and none the less was the confusion of tongues;
that night had thrown her veil over this floating Babel of
the North.
But through it all the three friends sat on their carpet
bags of patience, smoking the cigar of peace, now and then
making a joke among themselves, as the steward’s lantern
flashed upon some face of unusual solicitude, but totally
unconcerned amid the fluctuating hubbub that surrounded
them.
“Well,” said the Captain, “I have had enough of this fun,
and am hungry besides; I vote we go on shore. I suppose
your man is here?”
The Parson got up, and, putting his head over the side,
shouted in a stentorian voice, through his hand, which he
used as a speaking trumpet—“Ullitz! Ullitz!”
“Hulloh!” returned a voice from the dark waters, in the
unmistakably English man-of-war’s fashion—“Hulloh!” repeated
the voice.
“Shove alongside here, under the quarter,” said the Parson.
“Who have you got in the boat along with you? Tom
Engelsk for one, I am sure.”
“Only Tom and Torkel; I thought that would be enough,”
said a voice from the waters below, in remarkably good
English, in which the foreign accent was scarcely perceptible.
“Quite enough,” said the Parson; “look out there!” as
he hove the slack of the quarter-boat’s after-tackle fall,
which he had been making up into coils as he was speaking.
“Tell English Tom to shin up that, and come on board: it is
nothing for an English man-of-war’s man to do, and one of
you hold on by the rope.”
Tom, active as a cat, and delighted at being spoken of as
an English man-of-war’s man before so many English people,
scrambled up the side and stood before them, with his shallow
tarpaulin hat in hand, as perfectly an English sailor, so
far as his habiliments were concerned, as if he had dressed
after the model of T. P. Cooke.
The man’s real name was Thorsen, and his birthplace the
extreme wilds of the Tellemark; but having served for five
years on board an English man-of-war, he had dropped his
patronymic, and delighted in the name of English Tom; by
which, indeed, he was generally known.
“Tom,” said the Parson, “you see to this luggage; count
all the parcels; see that you have it all safe; pass it through
the custom-house, and let us see you and it to-morrow
morning. And now, he who is for a good supper, a
smiling hostess, a capital bottle of wine, and clean sheets,
follow me.”
As he spoke, he dropped his carpet bag over the side
which Ullitz caught, and disappeared down the rope by
which Tom had ascended, followed implicitly by his two
companions.
“Shove off, Ullitz,” said he, as the Captain sat himself
down and poised Tom’s oar in his hands, pointing it man-of-war
fashion as Tom himself would have done, and when Ullitz
had got clear of the steamer, seconding ably the sturdy
strokes of Torkel. In a few moments the boat touched the
quay of the fish market, and the party sprang on shore with
all the glee that shore-going people feel when released from
the thraldom of a crowded vessel.
Ullitz and Torkel remained behind, in order to secure the
boat in some dark nook best known to themselves; for there
were several idlers on the fish-market quay, who, except
for want of conveyance, would have been at that moment
unnecessarily adding to the crowd on board, and were
not very likely to be over-scrupulous about Torkel’s private
property.
The three friends, in the meanwhile, in order to extricate
themselves from two or three groups of drunken men
(drunkenness, the Parson remarked, was the normal state of
Norway, at that time of night), pressed forward, and walked
ankle-deep through the sandy desert, which, in Christiansand,
is called a street, the Captain stuffing the little
black pipe which, as was his wont, he carried in his waistcoat
pocket.
“Well,” said Birger, “no one can appreciate a blessing
until he has been deprived of it. I declare, it is a luxury in
itself to be able to go where one pleases, after having been
cribbed and cabined and confined as we have been, and to
plant one’s feet on the solid earth once more, instead of
balancing our steps on a dancing plank.”
“Pretty well, to call this solid earth,” said the Captain;
“I should call it decidedly marine.”
“Something like the Christiansanders themselves,” said
Birger, “who, as all the world knows, are neither fish nor
flesh, nor good red-herring; but I dare say Purgatory
would be Paradise to those who arrived at it from the
other way. Well, what is the matter? what are you
stopping about?”
These last words were addressed to the Parson, who having
been sent forward on the previous summer to spy out this
Land of Promise, had volunteered to act as guide.
“If there is one thing more puzzling than another,” said
he, “it is this rectangular arrangement of streets. I wish
those utilitarian Yankees, who claim the invention, had it all
to themselves. It is fit only for them.”
“The English of that is, you have lost your way,” said the
Captain.
“No, not lost my way,” said the Parson, who piqued himself
on his organ of locality; “but the fact is, I cannot
remember, in the dark, which of all these rectangular crossings
is the right one. I wish I could see that great lump of
a church they are so proud of. I say, Birger, knock up some
one, and ask ‘if Monsieur Tonson lodges there.’”
“Not I,” said Birger. “You are the guide; besides, they
must be coming ashore, some of them, from the steamer by
this time; and, in good truth, here are a couple of them.”
This couple, much to their relief, turned out to be Ullitz
and Torkel, who pointed out the road at once, but looked
rather grave at the Captain’s pipe, which was now sending
forth a bright red glow through the darkness, and occasionally
illuminating a budding moustache which he was cultivating
on the strength of being a military man.
Had the acquaintance been of longer standing, they possibly
would have spoken out; as it was, they contented themselves
with a muttered dialogue in their own language, in which the
Parson soon made out the words, “Tobacco” and “Police,”
both of which being modern inventions, bear nearly the same
name in every language in Europe.
“By the by, I had forgotten that,” said he. “Captain, I
am sorry to put your pipe out; but the fact is, you must not
smoke.”
“Not smoke! why not?”
“For fear you should set fire to the town,” said the Parson,—“that
is all. You need not laugh; the law is very strict
about it, I can tell you.”
The Captain did burst out laughing; and, in truth, where
they were standing, it seemed a ridiculous law enough, though
it is pretty general both in Norway and Sweden. The street
was one of unusual width, being one expanse of sand from
side to side, and the houses, none of which boasted a storey
above the ground floor, seemed absurdly distant,—almost
indistinct in the darkness.
The Captain, however, obediently put his pipe into its receptacle,
and resumed his route, muttering something about
Warner and the long range—his estimate of the Norwegian
legislative capacity being in no way raised by the sight of
certain small tubs of very dirty water standing by the side of
every house door, which the Parson informed him was
another precaution against fire.
“Whether there really is to be found any one, well authenticated
instance of a town being set on fire by a pipe of
tobacco,” said Birger, “I will not take it upon myself to say,
nor whether legislating upon pipes and leaving kitchen fires
to take care of themselves, be not like guarding the spigot
and forgetting the bung; but the fires here, when they do
occur, are really awful. You talk in your country of twenty
or thirty houses as something; we burn a town at a time.
Everything here is of deal, every bit of this deal is painted,
and in a season like this, everything you meet with is as dry
as tinder, and heated half-way to the point of combustion
already. Hark to that!” as a sharp, startling crack sounded
close by them; “that is the wood strained and expanded by
the roasting heat of a long summer’s day, yielding now to
the change of temperature; we shall have plenty of these
towards morning. Light up but one of these little bonfires
of houses in a moderate breeze, and see how every house in
the town will be burning within half-an-hour. Six months
ago, the capital of my own province, Wenersborg, contained
10,000 inhabitants, and I believe now the church and the
post-house are the only two buildings left in it.”
Here Ullitz, who was leading, came to a dead halt before
a substantial porch containing wood enough to build a ship,
from the open door of which a bright light was streaming
across the street. Taking off his hat—every Norwegian
is continually taking off his hat to everybody and everything—he
made a profound bow to the party in general,
and with the words, “Vær saa artig,” ushered them into the
house.
The room into which they entered was long and low, the
ceiling supported by a mass of timbers like the decks of a
ship; every part of it was planked with bright deal,—floor,
walls, and roof alike,—putting one something in mind of the
inside of a deal box. It was, however, well furnished with
birchen tables, birchen sofas chairs and cabinets (for birch
is a wood that takes a high polish), the whole having rather
a French look. The floor was uncarpeted, as is the case in
almost all Norwegian houses, for they have no carpet manufactory
of their own, and the duty upon English woollens is
so enormous that it is impossible to import them; but it was
strewed with sprigs of green juniper, which diffused a pleasant
fragrance; and these, in token that the family were
keeping holiday, were spangled with the yellow heads of the
trollius europæus, which the pretty Marie, the daughter of the
house, had been gathering all the morning, and had scattered
over them in honour of the expected guests.
Neither Marie nor her mother could speak one word of
English—few of their women can—but their deeds spoke for
them; for the hospitable board—and in this case it was
literally a board, placed upon trestles, and removed when the
supper was over—groaned under the weight of the good
cheer. There were fish, not only in every variety, but in
every variety of cookery; there was lobster-soup, and plok
fiske, and whiting cakes, and long strips of bright red
salmon, highly dried in juniper smoke and served up raw;
enormous bowls of gröd,—a name which signifies everything
semi-liquid, from rye-stirabout to gooseberry-fool;—with
cream, as if the whole dairy was paraded at once,—some of it
pure, some tinged with crimson streaks, from the masses of
cranberry jelly that floated about it.
Nor were the liquors forgotten, which, in Norway, at least,
are considered indispensable to qualify such delicacies. There
was the corn brandy of the country, diffusing round it a
powerful flavour of aniseed, without which no meal of any
kind takes place; there, too, was French brandy, freely partaken
of, but so light both in colour and taste, that it suggested
ideas of a large qualification of water; there was
English beer, and a light sort of clarety wine, that was
drunk in tumblers. Madame Ullitz, indeed, presided over a
marshalled array of tea-cups, of which she was not a little
proud, for it is not every house that can boast of its tea
equipage; but this was as an especial compliment to the
English strangers. The tea-cups and saucers might be
Staffordshire,—they had a most English look about them;
but the tea was unquestionably of native growth, being
little else than a decoction of dried strawberry leaves, not
at all unpleasant, but by no means coming up to English
ideas of tea.
“Vær saa artig,” said the lady of the house, with an inviting
smile and a general bow, intimating that supper was
ready; and the whole household and guests of various degrees,
including Torkel the hunter, and Jacob the courier,
and two or three stout serving-girls, and half-a-dozen
hangers-on of one sort or other, placed themselves round the
table, as indiscriminately as the viands upon it.
The house of Ullitz made a feast that day.
“Vær saa artig,” said Marie, handing to the Captain
a plate heaped up with brown, crisp, crackling whiting
cakes.
The Captain did his best to look his thanks as he took
the plate. “What on earth do they all mean by that eternal
‘Vær saa artig?’” said he to the Parson, aside. “I have
heard nothing else ever since we dropped our anchor. First,
I thought it meant ‘Get out of the boat,’ or ‘Go up the
street,’ or ‘Come in-doors,’ or ‘Sit down to supper,’ or something
of that sort; but then those drunken porters on
board were shoving and elbowing one another about with
the very same words in their mouths; and, now I recollect,
this was the very speech Birger made to the Professor on
the day of the wreck, when he gave him that slippery
hitch.”
“In that case,” said the Parson, laughing, “‘vær saa artig’
must mean two black eyes and a bloody nose, for that, as you
know, is what the Professor got by it. But the fact is, ‘Vær
saa artig,’ with variations, is the general passport throughout
all Scandinavia. Some writers ascribe a mystic force to the
words, ‘Vackere lilla flycka’—pretty little girl; and I am
sure I am not going to deny the force of flattery. But among
the natives, certainly, no one ever thinks of telling you what
they want you to do. ‘Have another slice of beef?’ ‘Come
in?’ ‘Take off your hat?’ ‘Take a seat?’ or whatever it
is; all that is dumb show, preceded by the universal formula,
‘Vær saa artig,’ ‘Be so polite.’ All the rest is understood.”
“Vær saa artig,” said Ullitz, unconsciously, from the other
end of the table, holding up a bottle of claret, from which he
had just extracted the cork.
“Jag har äran drikka er till,” replied the Parson, who had
picked up some of the formularies during his former visit.
“There,” he said, “that is another instance: an Englishman
would have said, ‘Take a glass of wine,’ in plain English.
He holds me a bottle, and tells me to ‘be polite.’ My belief
is, that when Jack Ketch goes to hang a man in Norway, he
is not such a brute as to tell him to put his head into the
halter; he merely holds it up to him, and, with a bow, requests
him ‘Att være saa artig.’”
“Yes,” said Birger, breaking in, “that is very true; it
used to be the case; but the Storthing has abolished that
piece of politeness, and capital punishment along with it.
The fact is, the Norwegians are so virtuous now, as everybody
knows, that they never want hanging.”
This sarcasm, which was spoken in a little louder tone
than the conversation which preceded it, threatened rather
to interfere with the harmony of the evening, which it probably
would have done had the language been generally
understood. But the Parson acted as peace-maker.
“Now, Ullitz,” said he, not giving that worthy time to
reply, “tell us what arrangements you have been making for
us. Shall we be able to start to-morrow?”
“I have done everything according to the instructions
transmitted to me,” said Ullitz, speaking like a secretary of
state, and with the solemnity warranted by the importance
of his subject. “There are two boats now lying at the
bridge quay, with their oars and sails in my porch, and we
can easily get another for the foreign gentleman” (so Ullitz
designated his Swedish fellow-countryman—a little trait of
Norske nationality at which Birger laughed heartily). “As
for boat furniture, we have everything you can possibly want,
in the shop; you have but to choose. And as for provisions,
we may trust Madame Ullitz for that.”
“Yes,” said the Parson, “I know Madame Ullitz and her
provision-baskets of old.”
Madame smiled, and looked pleased; making a guess that
something was said about her, and that that something must
be complimentary.
“Then, as for attendants, I made bold to detain this most
excellent and well-born Gothenburger, Herr Jacob Carlblom”—(with
a polite bow to Mr. Jacob, returned by a still more
polite bow from that illustrious and well-born individual).
“Herr Jacob is a traveller of some celebrity by sea and land”—(the
Parson afterwards found out that he was a Gothenborg
smuggler)—“and would be happy to attend the gentlemen
in the capacity of courier, cook, interpreter, and commissary,
for the remuneration of a specie-daler per diem, with
his food and travelling expenses.”
“Very well,” said the Parson; “I suppose we must have
a cook, so we will try your friend Mr. Jacob in our expedition
up the Torjedahl, and see how we like him. And what
says Torkel? are we to have the benefit of his experience?”
Torkel looked as if earth could afford no higher pleasure,
for, in his way, he was a mighty hunter—he was not only
great at the Långref,[2] and skilled in circumventing the
Tjäder[3] in his lek, but he had followed the Fjeld Ripa[4] to
the very tops of the snowy mountains, had prepared many a
pitfall for the wolf and fox, and had been more than once in
personal conflict with the great Bruin himself.
“Torkel shall be my man, then,” said the Parson, who had
a pretty good eye to his own interest.
“And English Tom, who speaks the language so well, will
be just the man for the highborn Captain,” said Ullitz.
“Very good,” said the Parson, “so be it; and whenever
we have to do with lakes and sailing, Tom shall be our admiral,
and shall put in practice all the science he has learned
in the British navy.”
“Tom is as proud of belonging to the English navy, as if
it were the Legion of Honour,” said Ullitz, whose father had
belonged to the French faction, and who was rather suspected
of holding French politics himself.
“It is the Legion of Honour,” said Birger, “and I give
Mr. Tom great credit for his sentiments. Well, you must look
me out a man, too. This will not be so very difficult, as I
speak the language pretty well for a foreigner.”
In fact, Birger had been practising the language a good
deal already, and not a little to the Captain’s envy, by making
fierce love to the daughter of the house; an amusement with
which guardsmen, Swedish as well as English, do occasionally
beguile their leisure moments; and, to the Captain’s infinite
disgust, Marie did not seem to lend by any means an unfavourable
ear to his soft speeches.
“Oh,” said Ullitz, “we shall have no difficulty whatever
in finding a man; if there is anything these people love
better than gain, it is pleasure, and here we have both combined.
My only difficulty lies in making the selection. I
have reckoned that each of the highborn gentlemen will want
a boatman besides his own man; but I have engaged these
only for the trip to Wigeland, as you will no doubt like to
change them there for men who are acquainted with the
upper river; but you can keep them if you like, they will be
but too happy to go.”
“All right, then, we will start to-morrow afternoon, and
get as far as Oxea before we sleep. The morning, I suppose,
must be devoted to hearing Tom’s report from the Custom-house,
making our selections for the trip, arranging our heavy
baggage that we are to leave here, and seeing that our outfit
is all right. I like to make a short journey the first day,
in order that if anything is forgotten, it may be sent back
for.”
“Not at all a bad general maxim,” said the Captain: “and
now to bed; for the broad daylight is already putting out the
blaze even of Madame Ullitz’s candles.”
“With all my heart,” said the Parson, “it is high time;”
and rising from his seat and going round to where Madame
Ullitz sat, he took her hand, and bowing low, said, “Tak for
mad”—thanks for the meal.
“Vel de bekomme,” said the lady,—well may it agree
with you.
In this ceremony he was followed by the whole party,
who, shortly after separating, sought their respective sleeping-places.
The beds were queer concerns, certainly: beautifully clean,
and fragrant with all manner of wild herbs; but as unlike
the English notion of a bed (which in that country is always
associated with ideas of a recumbent position), as is well possible.
A thick, straw mattress, shaped like a wedge, occupied
the upper half. Upon this were placed two enormous
pillows, fringed with lace. The rest of the bed was simply a
feather-bed placed on the ticking, and so much lower, that
the sleeper takes his rest almost in a sitting position. The
whole, including the quilt, was stuffed luxuriously, not with
feathers, but with the very best eider-down; for Madame
Ullitz, in her maiden days, had been at least as celebrated a
beauty as her daughter was now, and unnumbered had been
the offerings of eider-down made by her hosts of admirers,
who had braved wind and wave to procure for her that most
acceptable of all presents to a Norwegian girl—at once the
record of her past triumphs, and the glory of her future home.
The prudent traveller in Norwegian territories will always
do well, if he has the chance, to choose for his residence the
house of a ci-devant beauty.
Little, however, did the travellers reck of mattress or
feather-bed, Madame Ullitz’s past conquests, or her daughter’s
present bright eyes—a sea-voyage, four or five restless nights,
a long day’s work, and a plentiful supper at the end of it,
equalize all those things; and, though the sun was shining
brightly through the shutterless and curtainless windows,
five minutes had not elapsed before it was indifferent to them
whether they had sunk to rest on eider-down or poplar
leaves; or whether their beds had been strewed for them by
the fair hands of the bright-eyed Marie, or by those of the
two lumps of girls who had assisted at the grand supper.
CHAPTER VI. THE TORJEDAHL.
“Foresight is needful
To the far traveller:
Each place seems home to him:
Least errs the cautious.”
Hávamál.
“And now for work,” said the Parson, as, somewhat late
on the following morning they rose from a breakfast as substantial
and plentiful as had been the supper of the night
before. The ordinary meals of a Norwegian are, in fact,
three good substantial dinners per diem, with their proportionate
quantity of strong drink: one at nine or ten, which
they call “Frökost”; one at two or three, which is termed
“Middagsmad”; and one in the evening, called “Afton.”
But, whatever they call them, the fare is precisely the same
in all; the same preliminary glass of brandy, the same very
substantial hot joints, the same quantity of sweetmeats, and,
at Christiansand at all events, the same liberal supply of
fish. Tea and coffee are not seen at any of them, but generally
form an excuse for supernumerary meals an hour or so
after the grand ones.
The strangers were not yet acclimated; they lounged over
their morning’s meal as if the recollections of their yesterday’s
supper were yet green in their memories. Not so the natives.
No one would suppose that they had supped at all—they ate
as if they had been fasting for a week.
All things, however, come to an end,—even a Norwegian’s
breakfast; and the Parson stood in the porch receiving
English Tom’s report from the custom-house, and cataloguing
the packages as they arrived. These included two dogs; one
a very handsome brindled bay retriever, called “Grog,”
belonging to the Captain; the other an extremely accomplished
poaching setter, his own friend and constant companion.
These, wild with joy at their newly regained
liberty and restoration to their respective masters, from whose
society they had been separated during the whole voyage,
were grievously discomposing the economy of Madame
Ullitz’s well-ordered house.
A small assortment of necessaries was packed in deal
covered baskets or boxes,—for they looked as much like the
one as the other. This manufacture is peculiar to the
country, and is equally cheap and convenient. These, with
the rods, guns, ammunition, and boat furniture, including the
sails which were to form tents on the occasion, together with
Madame Ullitz’s liberal supply of provisions (among which
the rö kovringer were not forgotten), were arranged in the
porch, and one by one were transferred by the boatmen to
the bridge quay, where the boats were lying. The weightier
articles were consigned to the keeping of Ullitz, and were
lodged in his ample store rooms.
“Now, Captain,” said the Parson, as they stood on the
bank of the noble river, “do you take a spare boat and a
couple of hands, and pull as far as the first rapids; let Torkel
be one of them, and he will show you the place. There is on
the left bank of the river, a sort of rude boat canal, which is
not always passable. If we can contrive to get through it,
we will sleep at Oxea to-night: but, if the boats require to
be hauled over land, we must be satisfied with that for one
day’s work, return here to sleep, and carry our things over
land to-morrow morning. It will take me a couple of hours,
at the least, to fit these things, but I shall be ready for you
by the time you return. And, to tell you the truth,” he
added, in a whisper, “I wish you could take Birger with
you. He is doing nothing but laugh and joke; and he
makes the men so idle, that I shall get on twice as well
without him. Set him to harl for salmon—anything, to get
rid of him. It will be of use, too; for if he meet with anything
down here we may be sure that Wigeland is alive
with fish. You will see a reef of rocks on the right bank, a
quarter of a mile above the town: it is not a bad throw—set
him to work there.”
Birger was delighted at the idea, and, as the Parson would
spare none of the boats or boatmen, he took a small praam
that belonged to one of the men, and prepared to accompany
the Captain on his expedition.
Birger certainly was no fisherman: he could but just
throw a clumsy fly, and had never caught a salmon in his
life, or seen one, except at table: but harling is a science
open to the meanest capacity. It is the manner in which
cockney sportsmen catch their salmon in the Tweed, and
consists of traversing and re-traversing the width of the river,
with a rod and twenty yards of line hanging out of the stern
of the boat. The fly thus quarters the water backwards and
forwards without any exertion of the fisherman, and even the
salmon that seizes it effectually hooks itself before the rod
can be taken in hand. On the Tweed, the fisherman has
actually nothing to do, but to pay his boatmen, who, by
choosing their own course, perform the very little science
which this operation requires. In the present case, Birger,
having to manage his own boat, was far more the artificer of
his own fortune; but his success depended on his skill, not
as a fisherman, but as a boatman—an accomplishment in
which no Northman is deficient,—rather than on his science
and dexterity as a fisherman.
As soon as the exploring party had left, the Parson, with
his lieutenant and interpreter, Tom, and the remaining three
boatmen, addressed himself seriously to work. Every Norseman
is a carpenter; indeed, every Norseman may be set
down as a Jack-of-all-trades; and under Tom’s interpretership
they very soon began to understand what was wanted.
Under the starboard gunnel of each boat, and close to the
right-hand of the sitter, were screwed two copper brackets
for the gun, protected by a short curtain of waterproof. On
the opposite side was a sort of shelf or ledge for the spare
rods; and in the stern-sheets a locker for books, reels, powder-flasks,
odds and ends, and, above all, any little store of
brandy that they had,—an article which it was very dangerous
indeed to have loose in the boat.
Norwegian boats are built like whale boats, with both ends
alike, which is not altogether a convenient build for harling—a
mode of fishing, which, however much to be deprecated in
known rivers, is very useful, indeed almost indispensable, to
explorers. To remedy this, a ring and socket was fixed on
each quarter of the boat, in order to receive the butt of the
rod, and to hold it in an upright position when the fishermen
should be otherwise engaged. Under the thwarts of each
boat were strapped an axe, a handbill, a hammer, and a bag
of nails; and several coils of birch rope were stowed forward.
Birch rope, which is a Swedish manufacture from the tough
roots of the birch tree, is peculiarly adapted to these purposes,
since it has the property of floating on the water,
which hempen ropes have not.
Upon the principle of “business first and pleasure afterwards,”
so long as anything remained to be done, the Parson
had scarcely raised his eyes from his work, or thought of
anything else; and so well and so ably had he been seconded,
that everything was completely fitted, provisions brought
down and stowed, and all ready for starting, a full half-hour
before the time specified. His friends were, however, still
absent; and thus, having nothing to do, he left the men to
take care of the boats, and lounged across the beautiful
bridge that connects the town with the opposite shore.
The bridge of Christiansand may well be called beautiful;
not, indeed, as a piece of architecture, for it is built, like
almost everything in the country, of wood, though with a
solidity that would put to shame many of our buildings of
far more durable materials. Its beauty lies in its situation,
spanning as it does with its eleven broad flat arches, the
clear swift stream of the Torjedahl. The depth was such
that ships of some burthen were lying on each side of the
bridge, the centre compartment of which was moveable; but
so clear was the water, that the very foundations of the piers
could be seen as the Parson looked over the parapet; and
among them a beautiful school of white trout, as clearly defined
as if they had been swimming in air, which, much to
his satisfaction, he discerned working their way up from the
sea. This sight was doubly satisfactory, for he had been
ominously shaking his head at the peculiar ultra-marine tint
of the waters,—a sight in itself abundantly beautiful, as any
one who has seen the Rhone at Geneva can testify, but far
from welcome to the eyes of a fisherman, as indicating, beyond
a doubt, the presence of melted snow.
The Parson had reached the last arch, and was sitting on
the parapet, on the look-out for the returning boats; admiring
in the meanwhile the quiet little amphitheatre which forms
the last reach of the Torjedahl after its exit from its mountain
gorge, and scanning the quaint, old-fashioned town, with
its dark-red wooden houses, overtopped by its heavy cathedral,
on the tower of which the Lion of Norway, and the
Axe of St. Olaf, were glittering in the sun; and occasionally
peering into the gabled sheds of its dockyard, from each of
which peeped out the bows of a gun-boat,—that formidable
flotilla which, during the late wars, had hung on our Baltic
trade like a swarm of musquitos, perpetually dispersed by our
cruisers, and as perpetually re-united on some different and
unexpected point. Beyond this was the island citadel, a
place of no strength, indeed, for the strength of Norway does
not lie in its fortifications, but a point of considerable beauty
in the eye of an artist. The whole of this picture to seaward
as well as to landward, was set in by a frame of miniature mountains—not
hills, nor anything like hills, but real fantastically
shaped mountains, with peaked heads, some of them showing
their bare rocks, with little splashes of mica slate sparkling
like diamonds, but most of them covered with dark fir to
their very summits, only shooting out occasionally a bare cliff,
so arid and so perpendicular that no tree could find root
on it.
So intently was the Parson gazing on the scene, that it
was some time before he caught sight of Birger’s praam,
which was rapidly approaching the place where he was sitting,
and some time longer before he made out the very uncomfortable
position in which his friend was placed. Birger,
dexterous enough in the management of a boat, even that
most ticklish of boats, the Norwegian praam—a dexterity
which any one will appreciate who has ever attempted the
navigation of a Welsh coracle, or can picture to himself what
it is to be at sea in a washing-tub—had proved an apt scholar
in the science of harling; and the Captain, having seen him
make two or three traverses without upsetting his boat or
entangling his flies, had proceeded on his mission and left him
to his own devices. The boat was hardly out of sight when
a heavy fish rose at the fly. Birger seized his rod, as he had
been directed, but in his agitation forgot to secure his paddles,
both of which dropped overboard, and, unseen and unheeded,
set out on an independent cruise of their own,—and
thus the salmon, of course, had it all his own way. It so
happened that he headed to seaward, and the light praam
offering very little resistance, and the stream, which was
sweeping stilly and steadily at the rate of three or four miles
an hour, forwarding him on his way, there was every probability
of his reaching it.
No sooner had the Parson realised the true state of things,
than he rushed across the bridge for his boat; but the bridge
was by no means a short one, and the Parson was at the
farthest end; and long before he reached it, salmon, Birger,
praam, and all had disappeared under one of the centre
arches.
The boatmen had, of course, lounged away from the quay,
probably to the nearest brandy shop; but the Parson sprang
into a boat, cut the painter, seized the paddles, and shoved
off furiously into the stream.
Fortunately, this had been seen by the Captain, who was
at that moment returning; and he, though of course perfectly
unaware what was the matter, changed his course, and dashed
through the nearest arch, in pursuit.
By this time the praam was fairly at sea; but the boats
were nearing her fast, and the Captain, having the advantage
of oars, passed the Parson’s boat, and then, checking his
speed, lest he should capsize the friend he meant to aid,
grappled the praam with his boat-hook, and, winding his
own boat at the same time, towed her quietly and steadily
to a little sandy beach. Upon this, both he and Birger
landed. The latter, whose arms were aching as only a
salmon-fisher’s arms can ache, was glad enough to transfer
his rod to the Captain.
The Parson calling in vain for a gaff, which implement in
the hurry had been left in one of the other boats, threw himself
into the water, which there was not much over his knees.
But the salmon, seeing his enemies on every side, collected
his energies afresh, as that gallant fish will do, and rattled
off fifty yards of line into the deep blue sea before the Captain
could turn him. He had, however, a practised hand to deal
with. Slowly and carefully did the Captain reel him up,
guiding him to the spot a little above where the Parson was
standing as still and motionless as the rocks around him.
There was as yet a considerable current, arising from the
flow of the river, and the Captain, taking advantage of this,
let the fish tail down quietly and inch by inch, to where the
Parson was standing motionless and stooping so that his
hands were already under water. Slowly, and without effort,
the fish came nearer and nearer, till at last, gripping firmly
with both hands the thin part just above the insertion of the
tail, the Parson, half-lifting the fish from the water, dragged
him to land, and, despite his struggles, threw him gasping on
the snow-white beach.
“Well done, Birger!” said the Captain, laying his rod
against a rock, and running down, steelyard in hand;
“there is the first fish of the season, and you are the
prize-man.”
“Hurrah,” said Birger, admiring his own handiwork,—for
the steelyard had given a full two-and-twenty pounds,—“this
is the first salmon I ever caught in my life; and upon my
word, when I had him, I thought I had got hold of Loki
himself.”
“And upon my word,” said the Parson, “it looked as if
Loki had got hold of you; I thought he was taking you off
to his own realms. If we had not come up, you would have
been by this time half way to the Midgard Serpent!”[5]
“Well,” said Birger, “it took all the Œsir together to
land the aboriginal salmon; and, I must say, Thor himself
could not have handled him better than you did.”
“What is your story?” said the Captain; “sit down there
and tell it us. You will lose no time,” he added—for Birger,
having once tasted blood, looked very much as if he wished
to be at work again—“you will lose no time, I tell you, for
I must crimp this fish for our dinners. Who can tell if we
are to catch another to-day? Parson, lend me your crimping-knife;
I left mine in the boat.”
The Parson produced from his slip-pocket that formidable
weapon, called by our transatlantic brethren a bowie knife;
and the Captain, having first put the fish out of his misery,
proceeded to prepare him scientifically for the toasting-skewers.
“Now, Birger, for the story. So much I know, that it is
something about diabolical agency. Loki, I believe, is the
Devil of Scandinavian mythology.”
“Not exactly,” said Birger; “though we must admit that
he and his progeny, the Wolf Fenrir and the Midgard
Serpent, are the origin of evil, and will eventually cause the
destruction of the world. But Loki really was one of the
Œsir, or gods, and had sworn brotherhood with Odin himself;
and thus, though he often played them mischievous tricks,
they seem to have associated with him, as one is in the habit
of doing with a disreputable brother-officer—not exactly
liking him, far less approving of his ways, but still consorting
with him, and permitting him to be a participator of
their exploits. At last, however, when he had gone so far
as to misguide poor blind Hodur, so as to make him kill
Baldur, they determined that this really was too bad. Baldur
was a general favourite; everything good or beautiful,
either in this world or in Asgard, was called after him; and
the unanimous vote was, that Loki should be brought to
justice, and made to suffer for this. Loki, however, who
rather suspected that he had gone too far, himself, was no
where to be found. He had quitted Asgard in the form of
a mist,—whence, I presume, we derive the expression ‘to
mizzle,’—and had betaken himself to the great fall called
Fränängars Foss, where he lived by catching salmon;—for
Loki, it is said, was the first inventor of nets.”
“I have not a doubt of it,” said the Captain. “I always
did think that those stake nets must have been invented by
the Principle of Evil himself.”
“Well, so it was, at all events,” said Birger. “Odin,
however, one day, while sitting upon his Throne of Air,
Hlidsjälf, happened to fix his eye upon him—I say eye,
for you know Odin had but one, having left the other in
pledge at the Mimir Fountain. No sooner did he see
him, than he called to Heimdall, the celestial warder, to
blow his horn, and summon the gods to council at the Well
of Urdar.
“Loki, perceiving that something was suspected, burnt his
nets, and, changing himself into a salmon, took refuge under
the fall; so that, when the gods arrived at Fränägngar, they
found nothing but the ashes of the nets. It so happened,
however, that the shape of the meshes was left perfect in the
white ash to which it was burnt, and the god Kvasir, who, I
presume, must be the god who presides over the detective
police of Heaven, saw what had happened, and set the gods
weaving nets after the pattern of the ashes.[6]
“When all was ready, they dragged the river; but Loki
placed his head under a stone—as that clever fish, the salmon,
will do,—and the net slipped over his smooth, scaly back.
The Œsir felt him shoot through, and tried another cast,
weighting the net with a spare heap of new shields, which
the Valkyrir had brought the day before from a battle-field,
in order to mend the roof of Valhalla. Loki, however, leaped
the net this time gallantly, and again took refuge under the
foss.
“This time the gods dragged down stream; Thor wading
in the river behind the net. Thor did not mind wading; he
was obliged to do that every day that he went to council, for
the bridge of Bifrost would not bear him. In the meanwhile
Vidar, the God of Silence, in the form of a seal, cruised about
at the river’s mouth.
“Loki had thought to go to sea and take refuge with his
daughter, Jörmungard the Serpent, but, in assuming the form
of a salmon, he had assumed also, of necessity, the natural
antipathies and fears of the fish. He turned at a sight so
terrible to a salmon, and again sprang over the net. But
Thor was ready for him, and while he was in the air, caught
him in his hand, just above the insertion of the tail; and you
may observe that salmon have never yet recovered from that
tremendous squeeze, but are finer and thinner at the root of
the tail than any fish that swims.”
“Well,” said the Captain, “that is quite true; it is a fact
that every salmon-fisher knows; and he knows also that the
root of the tail is the only part of the salmon by which it is
possible to hold him, and that it is possible to hold him by
that the Parson showed you just now practically. But it is
very satisfactory to find out the reason of such things, particularly
when the reason is such a very good one. What did
the gods do with Mr. Loki when they had got him; crimp
him, and eat him?”
“They could not kill him,” said Birger, “because of the
oath of brotherhood which Odin had one day incautiously
sworn with him (I presume, when they were both drunk);
so they laid him on his back on three pointed rocks in a
cave, and bound him with three cords which they afterwards
transformed into iron bars; and there he will lie,
shifting himself, every now and then, from side to side, and
producing what mortals call earthquakes, until that day,
known only to the Nornir, when the twilight shall
fall upon Asgard, and the conflagration of the world is at
hand.”
“Serve him right, too,” said the Captain; “I am delighted
to hear that the inventor of salmon-nets perished—like Perillus
and other rascals—by his own invention. I hope the
gods will keep him purgatory, or whatever they call it, as
long as rivers run toward the sea. However, here is our
Loki (holding up, by the tail, the scored salmon), and, as we
have not been geese enough to swear brotherhood with him,
he will do for our dinner. What shall we do, in the
meanwhile, to crimp him?”
“Make him fast to the boat, and tow him a-stern for ten
minutes,” said the Parson; “the water of the Torjedahl is
cold enough to crimp a live fish, let alone a dead one. And,
I will tell you what: let Torkel go with the praam for the
other boats, and meet us on the left bank, just above the
bridge. I want to show you a view of our route to-day that
is worth seeing.”
So saying, he led the way up a steep, rugged path, just
discernible among the rocks of the rugged ridge which
divides the amphitheatre in which Christiansand is situated
from the wild coasts of the Fjord; and, passing through a
sort of natural opening cut in the summit ridge, pointed to
the scene before them. “There,” said he, “what do you
think of that?”
Birger was an artist; and, anxious as he was to begin his
career as a fisherman, his ever-ready sketchbook was drawn
out of his pocket; nor did he express a wish to move till
the rugged foreground upon which they stood, the luxuriant
park-like middle distance, with its clumps of trees, and
dark-red houses, and neat English-looking church, and the
background of fir-clad mountains, range beyond range, and
the deep narrow gorge through which their journey lay,
which the blue lake-like river seemed to fill from side to side,
were transferred to the paper.
A few minutes’ walk brought them to where the boats
were waiting, with the whole house of Ullitz, handmaidens
and all, who had come to see them off. Hand-shaking
all round—the fishermen took their places—the boats
shoved off—Marie threw after them her kid slipper, for
luck, (for that custom is of Scandinavian origin)—English
Tom gave three cheers, after the manner of her Britannic
Majesty’s navy—and the expedition started on its voyage up
the Torjedahl.
The Parson, who was anxious to reach the proposed
encampment at Oxea, while there was yet light to pitch the
tents, would suffer no harling, notwithstanding Birger’s remonstrances,
until the first rapids had been safely passed;
and, indeed, with the exception of the single throw where
the Lieutenant had hooked his fish that morning, that part
of the river was scarcely worth the trouble.
The rapids, however, which had been surveyed beforehand
by the Captain, were passed, under his skilful pilotage,
in much less time than had been allotted for the operation,
and then, with one consent, the flies were thrown upon
the water.
Above the rapids, the river forms what is technically
called a “flat;” a spot carefully to be sought out by the exploring
fisherman, as the likeliest to reward his search. A
flat is where the water rolls on with its acquired velocity and
the pressure of that which is behind it, rather than on
account of any declivity in the bed through which it flows.
In the present instance, indeed, the bed of the river actually
rose instead of sinking, for the ridge of rocks which form the
head of the rapids, had retained the stones and loose earth
washed down in the winter floods. This gradually shallowed
the whole river, spreading it out, at the same time, like a
lake, so as to fill the level of the valley from mountain to
mountain. These rose abruptly on either hand, in bare, inaccessible
cliffs, as if they had been forced asunder by some
convulsion of Nature, to make room for the rush of waters,
and exhibited a bare splintered face of rock.
At the end of an hour—for the Parson would allow no
more—all fears were at an end for that night’s supper;
no other salmon, indeed, had risen, but trout after trout
had been handed into the boats, some of them, too, of a very
respectable size: even Birger had not been without his share
of success.
But the stream was strong, the day was waning, many
miles intervened between them and their camping-ground,
the Parson was inexorable; so the casting-lines were exchanged
for harling-tackle, and the squadron formed in order
of sailing.
The difference between a common casting-line and the
harling-tackle which one rod in each boat should carry in
every exploring expedition, consists principally in the length
of the gut. The harling line carries five or six flies, in order
to show, at once, as great a variety as possible of size and
colour, and is joined to the reel-line by a swivel, in order to
prevent it from kinking—while two, or, at the most, three,
flies will be found quite sufficient for casting.
The order of march was this:—Birger led, with his gun
in his hand, ready for a stray duck or teal, many of which
would whistle over their heads, as evening drew on. He was
directed to keep, as near as possible, to the middle of the
stream; while, on either flank, and about twenty yards behind
him, came his two friends, with one rod in each boat
for harling, while, with the other, they whipped into the
likely ripples. Shooting and fishing, however, were made
altogether a secondary condition to progress: they might
catch what they could, and shoot what they could, but the
rowers were to pull steadily forward.
And thus they opened reach after reach of the beautiful
river, for the most part pent in by inaccessible cliffs, on
which the birch trees seemed to grow on each other’s heads,
and to support above them all a serrated crest of spruce and
fir. But, now and then, they would come to little semicircular
coombs, where the mountain wall would recede for a
space, leaving flats of twenty or thirty acres, which were
carefully cultivated to the very water’s brink, and planted at
the roots of the mountains with white poplar, the dried
leaves of which were to serve for beds in the summer and
hay in the winter. Here would be dark-red wooden houses
with overhanging eaves, and tidy, compact, little farmsteadings,
with their granaries, and store-rooms, and cattle-sheds,
all complete in themselves: and they had need be, for they
were completely isolated from the rest of the world. There
was no road, not even a footpath; no possibility of ingress
or egress, except that which the river afforded. The mountains,
except here and there, were inaccessible; and at every
turn of the river, seemed to beetle over it, shutting out each
little amphitheatre from its neighbour. The winter is the
Torjedahler’s time of liberty: then it is that their vehicles
are put into requisition; then it is that their corn and cattle,
if they produce any beyond their own consumption, are
brought to market; for the river, which has hitherto been
their boundary, forms now their railroad and frost-constructed
channel of communication.
The shadows were darkening on the clear river, and the
arms of even Norwegian rowers were beginning to ache,
when the last point was rounded; and the Parson’s joyous
shout gave notice that their camping-ground was at last
reached; and at the welcome signal, the lines were reeled
up with alacrity, and the boats’ heads were directed to the
shore.
The spot had been selected by him and Ullitz the year
before, partly as lying conveniently near to Mosse Eurd, their
proposed head-quarters, which it was considered expedient to
reach before noon on the morrow, in order to afford time for
their men hutting themselves and foraging out the resources
of the place; but principally from its own beauty and convenience.
So precious is level land by the banks of the river, that it
is rare to find any portion of it uncultivated of sufficient
extent for such an encampment as they required. But here,
at the foot of a winter torrent, whose dry bed gave access to
the uplands in summer, and brought down rocks and uprooted
trees in the winter, was a rough plain, formed, no
doubt, originally from the debris brought down by the torrent,
but now covered with short turf and cranberry-bushes, with
a few thick, bushy, white poplars, the leaves of which had
not yet been stripped for hay; while here and there a
graceful birch-tree formed a natural tent with its weeping
branches.
“Tom, bring the sails with you,” said the Captain, who
had leaped ashore to reconnoitre the ground; “we will have
our tent under this rock.”
“Capital place!” said Birger; “and bring the axe with
you, Tom, as well: that fir will make a first-rate ridge-pole,
and it blocks up the place where it stands.”
The Captain, not accustomed yet to the trifling value put
upon timber, hesitated to chop up a very promising young
tree,—which, indeed, was unnecessarily large for the purpose,
and which stood but very little in the way, after all.
“Why,” said Birger, “the very best fir-tree that ever
grew is not worth a specie daler here; and as for that
stick——” substituting the action for the word, he struck
deep into its side, and in a dozen strokes or so it came crashing
down among the under-stuff.
There was no lack of fuel: there never is in Norway,
where outsides of timber float down the rivers unheeded;
and trees, uprooted by the winter storms and land-slips, rot
where they fall. Before half the things were out of the
boats, three or four fires were throwing round their cheerful
light, some for cooking, some for wantonness, for the evening
was anything but cold. Birger, however, who, as a Swedish
soldier, had had a good deal of experience in bivouacking,—an
exercise to which they are all regularly drilled,—set his
own two men to gather and pile fuel enough to last through
the night; observing that they would all find it cold enough
before morning, when those scamps had burned up the fuel
at hand.
The Captain and the Parson were occupied in collecting
and weighing the fish, and apportioning them and the other
provisions among the men, while Jacob, the courier, seated
on a stone, apart, was plucking and preparing half-a-dozen
teal that Birger had shot during the passage. These, to the
Parson’s surprise, he deliberately cut in pieces, and consigned
to the great soup-kettle, along with a piece of salt-beef from
the harness cask, and various condiments which he made a
great secret of.
It may be observed that in Norway fresh meat is seldom
eaten, unless it be on grand occasions, or by those who are
well to do in the world. October is called in the north the
Slaughtering Month, and every family there is occupied in
salting, not only for winter, but for the rest of the year. A
harness cask, therefore,—that is to say, a small cask with a
moveable head, containing salt-beef or pork in pickle,—is a
very common thing to meet with, and in fact had formed the
pièce de resistance of Madame Ullitz’s stores.
“Look here, Jacob, my man,” said the Captain; “I will
show you a trick in cookery that has never reached Gottenborg
yet, nor London neither, for that matter; it is worth a
hogshead of your teal-soup.”
He called to Tom, who had been preparing under his
superintendence certain square sods of turf, and some long
white skewers; which, in the absence of arbutus—in Ireland
considered indispensable on such occasions,—he had been
directed to cut from the juniper.
Birger’s salmon, the flakes of which had actually curled
under the cold of the waters, preserving all their curd between
them, was cut into what he technically termed fids;
each one of these was spread open by the skewers and fixed
upon the turfs. These the Captain ranged round a great
heap of hot embers, which he had raked from the fire, and
set English Tom to turn as they required, basting them
pretty freely with salt and water.
The remaining fish had been given to the men, by whom
they were subjected to a variety of culinary operations; one
of which was making soup of them; and the fires began to
grow bright and cheery in the increasing darkness, when
Jacob paraded his kettle of teal-soup, and Tom set before
each of the fishermen a turf of toasted salmon.
In return, they received the men’s rations of brandy, the
only part of the provisions on which any limitation was
affixed. This in Norway, perhaps, was considered but a
small modicum: it would have been, however, quite enough
to make twice the number of Englishmen roaring drunk.
The men collected round their fires, looking like so many
gipsies; provisions were dispatched in enormous quantities,
pipes were lighted, horns produced and filled with pure
brandy, in which each man drank “du” with his neighbour,—an
ancient Scandinavian ceremony, which entitles the drinkers
henceforward to address one another in the second person
singular, and to consider themselves on terms of intimacy.
In the meanwhile, the principal personages of the expedition
sat at the door of their tent, for which the Captain
received his due meed of praise, he having brought the
canvas. They tempered their brandy with a little water,
after the custom of their country, and they smoked somewhat
better tobacco than the Norwegians; but after their
kind, they indulged in very nearly the same relaxations as
their attendants.
And thus fell the shades of night upon the first day of
the expedition.
CHAPTER VII. THE ENCAMPMENT MOSSE EURD.
“Our good house is there,
Though it be humble:
Each man is master at home.”
Hávamál.
“Rouse out, Birger, my boy,” said the Captain; “recollect
we have got the Rapids of Oxea to pass before we get any
breakfast, and that we have our breakfast to catch into the
bargain. Come, come,” continued he, as Birger stretched
himself on his Astrakan cloak, as if he was thinking of
another spell of sleep, “‘shake off dull sloth, and early rise,’
as Dr. Watts says—see me rouse out those lazy hounds down
there!” And that he did, in good earnest, by firing off both
barrels within a foot of their ears; a salutation responded to
by a chorus of yelping from the dogs, who imagined, of
course, that shooting was begun already.
This had the effect of speedily setting the whole party in
motion; and Jacob, who, with provident care, had prepared,
over-night, a kettle of coffee, raked together the embers
of the still burning fires, presented each with a full
horn of it, a very welcome introduction to the day’s labour;
and then, as wood was plentiful, threw on some logs for a
parting blaze.
The river itself formed the fishermen’s washing-basin, and
the boat’s thwarts their toilet-tables. Bitter cold, indeed,
was the water; whatever the air may be, there is seldom
much caloric to spare in the water till autumn is pretty well
advanced; but, at least, it had the effect of thoroughly
waking them, and causing them fully to appreciate the luxury
of the now blazing fires to dress by.
No one who has any regard for his health should think of
going on a fishing expedition, however short, without a complete
change of clothes,—one set for work, and one for dining
and sleeping in. No man has any business, indeed, on such
an expedition at all, who is afraid of water; but whether he
is afraid or not, he will be sure to be wet, at one time or
other, during the day. This, while the limbs are in exercise
and the sun above the horizon, is all well enough; but let no
man, however hardy he may think himself, sleep habitually in
wet clothes, or in clothes hastily and imperfectly dried by the
camp fire. The very bracing of the nerves during the day,
which prevents the fisherman from taking injury by what
would be called imprudence by his stay-at-home friends,
makes the relaxation and reaction during the night more
complete; and during that time he is exposed to a host of
dangers which vanish before the face of the sun. With all
his precautions, no man gets up from his night’s sleep in the
open air without a little stiffness in the limbs for the first
minute or so, though it may vanish at the first plunge into
the water of his morning’s ablutions. But without these
precautions, he is not unlikely to cut short his own expedition
by any one of a dozen diseases which no amount of
animal courage will enable him to bear up against, and thus
he will be defeating his own object. It is very well to bear
hardships cheerily when they are unavoidable—cheerfulness
itself is a preservative. But it is only very young sportsmen
indeed, who will seek out hardships for the pleasure of undergoing
them.
Our fishermen were not young sportsmen, they were men
of experience. The Parson and the Captain had both of
them learned their lesson in Ireland, where people soon begin
to understand what wet means; and Birger was a Swedish
soldier, and had learnt these matters professionally. Before
they started, they had settled the invariable rule of a complete
dress for dinner, under any circumstances whatever,
which implied, of course, as complete a dress in the morning:
it is necessary almost to bind oneself to some such vow, there
are so many temptations to break it; in Norway especially,
where, though the summer days are hot—hotter by many
degrees than they are in England, and the evenings in the
highest degree enjoyable, the morning air is generally sharp
and bracing, and the water which comes down from the
snowy ranges bitterly cold.
Jacob, in the meanwhile, whose toilet did not take very
long, and who rarely occupied himself in any work which did
not especially belong to his own department, had been parleying
with a young fellow, who, roused by the Captain’s gun,
had pulled across in his boat from the opposite side, while
the rest of the men were occupied in preparing the boats and
re-arranging the articles that had been taken on shore the
preceding evening.
They came up together to where the Parson was standing
by the fire, busily engaged in exchanging his salmon casting-line
for one better adapted for trout.
“The young man says that the river is dangy,” said he;
for though he spoke English well enough, he has his own
particular words, which it was necessary to make out.
“Dingy,” said the Parson, without any very clear comprehension
of what was meant, but rather reverting in his mind
to the azure transparency of the waters; which, in truth, he
would gladly have seen a little stained by mud. “Well,
that is a good job. But I fear he will find himself a little
mistaken.”
Jacob evidently had not conveyed his meaning: he looked
round for Tom or Torkel to assist him, but they were both
in the boats, working busily under the Captain’s orders; so
Jacob tried his hand again.
“The young man says that there is a great deal of water
in the river from the snow. He says that boats are very
often sunk at Oxea.”
“Humph!” said the Parson, who began to suspect something.
Here the young man himself broke in with a long story in
Norske.
“He says,” interpreted Jacob, “only last week, one boat
was upset, and two men were drowned.”
“Aye? aye?” said the Parson; “what! sober men?”
Jacob did not see the inference, or would not. “This
young man is a river-pilot,” said he; “he will take you up
for two mark each boat.”
“I tell you what it is, Mr. Jacob,” said the Parson; “I
will teach you a lesson. When you engaged as our courier,
you meant to fleece us all pretty handsomely. Well, I have
nothing to say against this. As courier, it is your undoubted
privilege so to do. But remember this, it is equally your
duty, as courier, to prevent any one else from fleecing us.
And if I find you only once again failing in that respect, off
you go at a minute’s notice. Now send your friend home
again.”
Without looking behind him, the Parson, who had now
finished fitting his flies, took his place in his own boat, and,
directing Torkel to shove off to the other bank, threw his
line across the mouth of a small tributary to the great river,
which he had marked the year before as abounding with
trout. Jacob looked for a moment inclined to rebel, but no
man was more alive to his own interests than the ex-smuggler.
He had engaged in the trip, not like Tom and Torkel,
from sheer love of sport and adventure, but as a profitable
speculation. So, pocketing the affront, much as “ancient
Pistol” did his leek, he crept down to Birger’s boat, which
was his place in the line of march, where he sat sulky, but
utterly wasting his sulkiness; for Birger, anxious to keep up
his yesterday’s character of a fisherman, was much too intent
upon the—to him—difficult manœuvre of keeping his flies clear
of the oars, to observe whether he was pleased or not.
The Captain took the inner line skirting the shore on the
right bank, for it had been agreed that the flat below the
Oxea rapids should be well tried, in hopes of getting some
fresh fish for breakfast.
Though last in the field, he drew the first blood, hooking
and, in a few minutes, landing a small salmon, and thus
securing a breakfast. And by the time the boats came
together again, the Parson had brought to bag a very fair
supply of fjeld öret, or brook trout, from the little streamlet
he had been trying. And now began the serious business of
the day.
Notwithstanding Mr. Jacob’s information, the rapids of
Oxea are perfectly safe to sober men. It is impossible that
an accident can happen in them, except from carelessness;
for the water, though swift, is everywhere deep. The stream
falls with some force over a slanting ledge of smooth, slaty
rock, some three or four hundred yards long or perhaps more,
and acquires in its slide considerable velocity; but the bottom
is smooth, and the surface nowhere broken by sunken rocks.
The stream, therefore, is a steady current, surging up against
the numerous islands which dot the river, as if they had been
pieces of a ruined bridge. Each of these was crested with
its half-dozen or so of ash or birch, which looked as if it was
they that were in motion, and not the clear stream that was
racing past them.
The passage was a sheer trial of strength, requiring no
great amount of pilotage, or local experience, or even skill.
The ropes were got out and made fast to two or three thwarts,
to take off the strain; the boats were lightened of their living
incumbrances—except so far as the steersmen were concerned,—and
were then tracked by main force one by one, every one
of the party lending a hand, except, indeed, Jacob, who considered
it his duty, having once said the rapids were dangerous,
to act as if he thought so, and who had, therefore,
been despatched by land to the head of the rapid, with orders
to light the fires and get the breakfast ready, as nothing else
could be done with him.
The principal difficulty arose from the uncertainty of the
footing among the crags, and the gnarled ash-trees that every
here and there shot almost horizontally from between the
fissures of the rock, dipping their branches into the stream.
These rendered it necessary, every now and then, to make
fast the boat to the tree itself, and then to float down a line
to it from some point above the obstacle, for the river fortunately
ran in a curve at that place. Thus, by giving a
broad sheer into the stream, while the rest of the party
hauled upon the rope, the boat would swing clear of the
impediment.
But all this was very hard work, and, as the sun was now
high in heaven, very hot work; and, moreover, it had to
be repeated three times before all the boats were in safety.
Fully as much justice was done to Jacob’s breakfast as had
been done to his supper on the preceding evening; and most
luxurious was the hour’s rest which succeeded it.
The remaining part of the voyage was easy: there was a
sharp current, no doubt, too sharp for anything to speak of
to be done with the flies; but it was all plain travelling, and,
with an occasional help from the ropes, before noon their
destination had been reached. This was the foot of a low
fall, or something between a fall and a rapid, called “The
Aal Foss,” in the middle of which was a picturesque rocky
island, covered with trees, and on the left bank an equally
picturesque peninsula, which was destined to be the head-quarters
of the expedition, and the basis of subsequent
operations.
“There,” said the Parson, fixing his rod in the stern-rings,
and springing on shore as the boat’s keel touched a sandy,
slaty beach in the isthmus of the peninsula—
“Thus far into the bowels of the land
Have we marched on without impediment.
Here is the limit of my survey. Thus far have I borne the
baton of command; and I beg you to observe that we have
reached the appointed spot twenty minutes before the appointed
time.” And he held out his watch in proof of it.
“I have, as you see, performed my promise; and thus I resign
the leadership of the expedition.”
“With universal thanks and approbation,” said the
Captain; “and I propose that now the leadership devolve
upon Birger; he is the man of camps and bivouacs, for he
has experienced what we have only read about.”
“Well,” said Birger, “I will not affect modesty. Like
others, I have passed my degrees, and it would be a great
shame if bearing his Majesty’s commission, I did not understand
what every soldier is taught.” Then, suddenly recollecting
that the Captain was a military man as well as himself,
he steered adroitly out of his scrape, continuing, as if his
concluding paragraph had been part of his original speech—“You
have only to wait for a war, Captain, and you will be
in a situation to give us all a lesson. No one understood
these things better than your old Peninsula men; but Sweden
thinks her soldiers ought to learn their business before we are
called out to fight, and not afterwards.”
To pass the degrees—“gradar,” or rather “gradarne,” for
no one ever thinks of speaking of them without the definite
article “ne,” as if there were no other degrees in the world—is
anything but a joke in Sweden. Military service, so
far, at least, as the Guards and the Indelta[7] are concerned,
is extremely popular. There is ample choice in candidates;
and very good care is taken that the officers shall be men
who know their business, and shall not be at a loss in what
situation soever they may be placed. The “gradar” consists
of a series of lectures and extremely strict examinations, in
everything connected with the service, both intellectual or
physical, from the construction of an equilateral triangle up
to the sketch of a campaign, and from the musket drill to a
year of sea service. Passing out in seamanship is indispensable;
for Sweden, reversing our principle of hatching ducklings
under hens, hatches her young death-or-glory cornets
and ensigns on board her ships. Properly speaking, the
Swedish navy has no midshipmen. The cadets, who fill pretty
numerously the midshipman’s berth, may possibly enter the
navy, if they are so inclined; but nine-tenths of them are
candidates for commissions in the army, and are thus learning
a lesson which may be of use to them hereafter, when they
have troops of their own to embark or manage on ship-board.
Birger had passed his degrees with credit, or he would
not have been selected as a travelling student; and his companions
were now likely to profit by this circumstance, for
one of those degrees comprehends all these mysteries of
camping, and hunting, and cooking, and provisioning, and, if
scandal may be trusted, a sort of Spartan stealing, which
goes under the euphemism of “availing one’s self of the resources
of the country;” these little matters being taught by
a three weeks’ actual practice in the field every summer.
Birger was altogether in his element. “Now,” said he,
“the first thing I must do is to borrow all your boatmen,
for I shall want every man I can lay my hands upon; some
for the camps, and some for cutting and drawing fuel; I can
find something to do for them all, and for more too if I had
them. And here, you Jacob, take a basket with you, and
see what you can forage out from the cottages and woods
about, in the way of milk, bread, butter, berries, and so
forth; and hark you, Jacob, no brandy, if you please;
that is the first thing those scamps always put their hands
upon.”
“You have not reckoned us,” said the Captain, “among
your effective strength; we shall not be of much use in
foraging, as we cannot speak Norske, but we have hands and
heads too.”
“Do not forget how scantily the camp is provisioned,” said
Birger; “we have not had time or opportunity to catch or
shoot anything since we left Oxea, where, I am sure, we ate
up most of our fresh fish. It will not do to be drawing too
largely from our supplies.”
“I have no objection, I am sure,” said the Parson; “but
you must let us have one boat, Birger; even if we are to fish
this river from the shore, there is half a mile of open space,
certainly, between this and the great falls of Wigeland; but
best throws lie on the right bank, and we really must have
the power of crossing.”
“Well,” said Birger, “I cannot spare you Torkel, that is
certain—he is much too valuable; take your own boatman;
you may halloo out ‘Kom öfver elven,[8]’ if you want him,
and happen to be on the wrong side; and if he cannot hear
you, say ‘Skynda paa mid baaten sáa skall du faa drikspengar,’[9]
and I will warrant he hears fast enough, deaf as
he may be to the first call. We must have one of the boats
above this fall,” he continued, musing; “and we may as well
do it at once. We will set all hands to launch it over this
isthmus, before we do anything else, and then you can use it
for your passage-boat. And now for the camp. Tom,
Torkel, my own man Peter, my boatman and the Captain’s
will be little enough for what I have to do, though there are
some good hands among them, as I saw last night and this
morning too at Oxea.”
“We must fish, then,” said the Captain; “for there is
no use going about after grouse, in this thick forest,
without Torkel, or some one that knows the place; we
should be but wasting our time, poking about these trees at
hap-hazard.”
“And, I am half-afraid that we shall not do much in
fishing either,” said the Parson, as they got a sight of the
upper reach of the river, which lay calm and shining before
them. “The sun is as bright as if Odin[10] had got
his other eye out of pledge, and were shining on us with
both at once.”
The Captain whistled a few bars of the Canadian Boat
Song.
“Yes,” said the Parson, “it is very true, as you whistle,
but, though the sun be bright, and, though ‘there be not a
breath the blue wave to curl,’ we must try what we can do.
It adds considerably to the interest of fishing, when we know
that our supper depends upon it.”
“If this were the old Erne,” said the Captain, “we might
whistle for our supper, in good earnest; but, it must be confessed,
that the fish here are very innocent; we may deceive
one; it is not impossible; for, as Pat Gallagher used to say,
‘there are fools everywhere.’ But—look here,” he said, as
he cast across the stream, “positively, you may see the
shadow of the line on the bottom, deep as the water is.”
“Let us cross,” said the Parson. “‘Gaa öfver elven,’ as
Birger says, for I see they have got the boat up: near the
great fall there are some strong streams that will defy the
sun and the calm together.”
Thanks to the innocence of the salmon, which the Captain
had hinted at, their pot-fishing was not entirely without
success: the upper part of the reach, where the waters had
not yet recovered their serenity after undergoing the roar
and fury of the great fall, did actually furnish them with a
graul or two; but the salmon that had arrived at years of
discretion were very much too cautious to be taken. They
had never, it is true, been fished for in their lives with anything
more delicate than a piece of whipcord and a bunch of
lobworms, as big as a cricket-ball; but, for all that, they
were quite old enough to draw an inference, and were perfectly
aware that natural grasshoppers were not in the habit
of swimming about with lines tied to their noses.
Towards evening there sprang up a light air of wind, and
the rises began to be more frequent. The Captain, by
making use of Birger’s prescribed form of words, had got the
boatman to land him on the rocky island which divides the
Aal Foss into two branches. There, concealed by a stubby
fir, not quite so high as himself, he was sending out twenty
yards of line that fell so lightly that it never seemed to touch
the water at all.
There is no doubt that, of all the Erne fishermen, it was the
Captain who threw the longest and the lightest line, and well
was the Captain aware of that fact: but there is an axiom
which “far and fine” fishers would do well to bear in mind, and
which, though apparently evident to the meanest capacity, is
very seldom borne in mind by any one; and that is, that it
is of very little use to fish “far and fine,” when the fish
themselves are lying, all the while, in the water close under
your feet. This was precisely the Captain’s position; the
waters, divided by the rock on which he was standing, were
naturally deepest close to the rock itself, and, as naturally,
the best fish lay in the deepest water. The Captain understood
this well, but he could not deny himself his length of
line, and, therefore, contrived to fish the water close to him
by raising his arms, bringing the point of his rod over his
right shoulder, and then whisking his flies out for a fresh
cast with a dextrous turn of the wrist which no man in
England but himself could have performed.
“I will tell you what,” said the Parson—who, not having
met with much success, had stuck up his rod, and had got
himself ferried over to the island—“it is not very likely that
a fish of any size will rise this evening, but if such a thing
should happen I would not give much for your rod.”
“I wish the biggest fish in the river——”
The sentence was never finished, for, at the word, the wish
was granted; and, if not the biggest fish in the river, certainly
the biggest fish they had yet seen, rose at the fly when
it was not a foot from the rock.
The rod never stood a chance. Raised at a sharp angle
over the Captain’s shoulder, the whole strain came upon the
top-piece, which, as he struck, snapped like a flower-stalk,
without effort or resistance; and away rushed the fish forty
or fifty yards up-stream with the top-piece, which had run
down upon the fly, bobbing against his nose.
The Captain did all that man could do. Carefully did he
watch his fish, anticipating every movement; instantly did
he dip his rod, as the salmon sprang madly into air—instantly
did he recover it; promptly was the line reeled in
at the turn; tenderly was it given out at the rush; but it
was of no avail—the rod had lost its delicate spring; and,
despite the Captain’s care, every now and then the fish
would get a stiff pull against the stump, thus gradually enlarging
the hold which the hook had taken in the skin of the
jaw, till, at last, just as the Parson, who had been hoping
against hope, was taking the cork off the point of his
gaff and clearing away the brambles to get a good standing
place for using it, the line came up slack; the hold had
given way.
The Parson had the generosity to be silent about his
warning that had received so immediate a fulfilment.
“Well,” he said, “you have recovered your top; that is
something, so many miles from Bell Yard; and as for
the fish, depend upon it that there are more where he came
from.”
The Captain mused a little. With the exception of
Birger’s chance-medley, they had not seen a full-grown
salmon[11] since they had come upon the river, and the loss
was no light one. “I suppose,” he said, interrogatively, “it
would be hardly worth while to fetch another top from the
camp?”
“Not at all worth while,” said the Parson; “the wonder is,
that you rose one full-mouthed fish on such a day as this.
You are not going to rise another. Besides,” he added,
“look at the sun! It is time for us to think of cooking,
rather than catching. Birger will be wondering what is
become of us.”
They were at no great distance from the camp, which, to
their surprise, they found tenanted by Jacob alone, who,
having got over his morning sulks, was busy in what he
called a Långref, a miniature variety of which is not
altogether unknown to our Hampshire poachers; but
Jacob’s was a tremendous affair, more like what in sea-fishing
is called a spillet or bolter, consisting of three or four hundred
yards of water cord, and half as many hooks.
“Halloo,” said the Captain; “what has become of them
all? Why, Jacob, where is Lieutenant Birger?”
“He is gone with the men to make an offering to Nyssen,”
said Jacob.
“Who the devil is Nyssen?” said the Captain.
Jacob looked distressed. It is not lucky to mention the
mundane spirits and those of hell in the same sentence; in
fact, the less people talk about either of them the better,
so, at least, the Swedes think, and therefore imprecate their
curses by saying, “The Thousand take you,” leaving it for
your own conscience to determine whether they are consigning
you to saints or devils.
“There they are, you may see them yourself,” replied he,
evading the question, and pointing to a bare rounded rock
which rose above the wooded summits about a mile down the
river.
The Parson’s telescope was in his hand in a moment; but
all he could make out was, that they put something on the
ground which they left there, and immediately entered the
thick wood, which hid them from his sight. Jacob could
not, or at all events would not, satisfy their curiosity, and
they had nothing for it but to amuse themselves with
admiring Birger’s handy-work, till that individual on his
return should make his own report of himself.
And really the Lieutenant would have extorted praise from
the head of the Kong’s-öfver-commandant’s-Expedition himself,
so well and so orderly was the encampment made.
The sails were formed into three several tents, not very
large ones, certainly, and scarcely admitting of the inmates
sitting upright, except in the centre, but quite sufficient to
shelter a man lying at full length. At the back of these,
where the ground rose a little, a neat trench was cut, in
order to carry off the drainings of any unforeseen shower.
These were the sleeping tents; and in front of them were
spread out a quantity of poplar leaves, which were eventually
to form the beds, and which were then pretty rapidly
undergoing the process of desiccation in the hot and bright
sunshine which had hitherto been so unfriendly. A birch
trimmed in its weeping branches, and thickened above with
a few supplementary boughs of spruce-fir, was evidently
arranged for the dining-room, and several of the stores were
gathered round its trunk and thatched with fir-branches,
while at some distance below, and not far from the sandy
beach, stood three or four neat green huts, built with a framework
of fir-poles, and thatched closely, both in roof and walls,
with the upper branches of the trees that had been cut down
for the frame. Not far from where Jacob was sitting over his
långref, there was an elaborate kitchen, built of rough stones
against a natural rock, with a cross-beam on the top to swing
the kettle from, and beside it rose a goodly pile of fuel, cut
into lengths, and stacked into what is called in the country
fathoms, that is to say, square piles, six feet long and three
high. This had evidently been their last work, for the axes
and saws were still lying on the unfinished pile. By the
river’s bank at the edge of the peninsula was a curious erection,
which Jacob called the smoking-house. It was a
pyramid constructed of outsides of deals, hundreds of which,
rejected from the saw-mills, were floating about unheeded in
the river, and drifting into every corner that was sheltered
from the current. This was by no means a place constructed
for the luxury of smoking tobacco, an amusement in which
every individual of the party indulged in every possible place
and in all places alike. It was erected for hanging up superfluous
salmon which had previously been slightly salted, in
order, with the help of smoke from the green juniper, to convert
them into what in London is called “kipper.”
There was little use for it that evening, however, for the
grauls brought in by the fishermen would have been but
scanty allowance, even for the present supper, had they not
been helped out by other provisions. But Jacob had by no
means been idle in his vocation. On a shelf of rock not very
far from the kitchen, and shaded by a friendly tree, stood
gallons of milk and piles of flad bröd, with a few raspberries,
which were just then ripening, and an actual little mountain
of strawberries, for the woods were carpetted with their
bright green leaves and scarlet berries.
Jacob, as was his duty, rolled up his långref as quickly as
such a combination of tackle could be stowed away, and commenced
preparing the fish for dinner, while the fishermen
changed their clothes, and hung them to dry round a supplementary
fire which had been lighted for the purpose.
CHAPTER VIII. MAKING A NIGHT OF IT.
“Ale’s not so good
For the children of men
As people have boasted;
For less and less,
As more he drinketh,
Knows man himself.
The kern of forgetfulness
Sits on the drunken
And steals the man’s senses,—
By the bird’s pinions
Fettered I lay
In Gunlada’s dwelling.
Drunken I lay,
Lay thoroughly drunken,
With Fjalar the wise.
This is the best of drink,
That every one afterwards
Comes to his senses.”
High Song of Odin the Old.
Many minutes had not expired, during which brief space the
fishermen had been luxuriating in their dry clothes, when
the boats were seen working their way back across the tail
of the Aal Foss rapid, as they returned with the party from
the right bank, which, after bobbing about on the ripples
and cross currents, shot into their little harbour beneath the
encampment.
Birger came up the bank, half-laughing, yet looking as if
he had been doing something he was ashamed of.
“Where the deuce have you been, Birger?” said the Captain,
as that worthy threw himself on the turf under the
birch-tree: “Jacob says you have been sacrificing to Nyssen,
whoever he is.”
“So I have,” said Birger; “but don’t speak so loud. I will
tell you all about it.”
“Not speak so loud,” said the Captain; “why not?”
“Well,” said Birger, rather hesitatingly, “Nyssen does
not like to be spoken of. That is to say, the men don’t
exactly like to hear people speaking of him, at least by name,
if it is above the breath.”
“Come, come, Birger, be honest,” said the Parson.
“Well, if you must have it, I do not quite like it myself.
I do not believe in such things, of course; but there is no
good in doing what everybody thinks unlucky.”
“Well, well,” said the Captain, “but tell us what you have
been about. I am quite in the dark as yet about this mysterious
gentleman or lady.”
“Why, the Nyss,” said Birger, sinking his voice at the
word to a whisper, “is a spirit of the air, just as the Neck (a
similar whisper) is a spirit of the water.”
“The very familiars of the Lady of Branksome,” said the
Parson:—
It was the Spirit of the Flood,
And he spoke to the Spirit of the Fell.
“Very likely, but our spirits, like our people, are not
indifferent to the pleasures of eating and drinking; and
therefore, whenever we start on an expedition, we propitiate
them with an offering.”
“And the offering consists of——?”
“What we like best ourselves, cakes and ale.”
“But what had you to do with it,” said the Captain; “I
suppose you do not believe in spirits?”
“The men asked leave to go, when they had done their
work, and wanted me to go with them, to that high rock
you see down there,—for they always choose out some
bare and elevated locality, as best adapted to a spirit
of the air; and so—well, I went with them; don’t laugh
at me.”
“That will I not,” said the Parson; “you could not have
done a wiser thing. Always fall in with men’s superstitions;
there is nothing that attaches them so much as humouring
their little illegitimate beliefs; to say nothing,” he added
slily, “of believing a little in them yourself.”
“How is this offering made?” said the Captain: “what are
the rites belonging to the worship of a spirit of the air?”
“They are simple enough,” said Birger, “and not at all
like those you would see on the stage of London,—no blue
fires or poetical incantations: they consist in simply
placing the cake on the most exposed pinnacle you can find,
pouring the ale into the nearest hollow that will hold it,
and then retreating in silence, and without looking behind
you.”
“While some thirsty soul, after the manner of Bel in the
Apocrypha, plays Nyssen and accepts the offering,” said the
Captain.
“What! eat Nyssen’s offering! Tom, what do you say
to that?”—for the men were still fidgetting about the fire,—“what
do you say to that? The Captain thinks that
one of you will eat up Nyssen’s cake; what do you say
about it?”
“Well,” said Tom, “we have bold men in Norway, as all
our histories will tell you; but bold as we are, I do
not think you will get a man in the whole country to do
that.”
“There was a young fellow once who did it in my country
though,” said Jacob, “and dearly he paid for it. The family
used to place the yearly gifts to Nyssen under the sails of
their windmill every Christmas Eve;—you Norwegians do
not know what windmills are; you grind all your corn by
water, poor devils!”
Here Tom and Torkel, both Tellemarken men, broke in
simultaneously; the one swearing that, in the Tellemark,
windmills were as plenty as fir trees; the other vociferating,
somewhat incongruously, that no nation two degrees from
actual barbarism could ever think of such a piece of machinery
at all.
Birger stilled their national animosities by wishing
“The Thousand” would take them all three, and their
windmills into the bargain, and Jacob went on with his
story.
“The eldest son,” he said, “was a sad unbeliever; he had
been a very good boy as long as he had lived with his father
and mother at Lerum, but when he grew up he had gone to
Copenhagen and got corrupted; for, as his honour Lieutenant
Birger knows, they are all sad infidels at Copenhagen.”
Here was likely to be another outbreak; for the Danes,
though it is quite true that a great many of them are not
only sceptics in fairy mythology but in religion also, are yet
vehemently regretted by the Norwegians, who were in no
ways pleased with that act of the Congress of Vienna which
separated them from Denmark; a fact which our friend
Jacob was perfectly aware of.
Peace was again effected by a vigorous kick from his
fellow-countrymen, together with some observations respecting
a donkey in a state of eternal condemnation; and
Jacob went on as if nothing particular had happened.
“Well,” said he, “the young man found that the best ale
and sweetest cake were always given to Nyssen, so he slipped
out and gobbled them up himself. During the whole year
that followed that Christmas, no great harm came of it, only
there was always something wrong about the windmill; now
a sail blown away, now a cog broken; there was plenty of
grist, trade was lively enough, it was always something to do
with the wind, and, as far as that was concerned, nothing
went right. Still no one suspected the reason, till Christmas
Eve came round again, and another sweet cake and another
bottle of strong ale were placed under the mill for Nyssen.
The night was as still and as quiet as this evening is,—quieter
if possible; there was not a breath of wind, and the snow
looked like a winding-sheet in the moonlight. Well, the
young man slipped out again; but scarcely had he stooped
to pick up the bottle, when a furious gust of wind arose,
scattering the snow like flour out of a sack; the sails flew
round as if they were mad; it was said that a figure in a
pointed cap and a red jacket sat astride on the axle, and one
of the sails taking the young man on the side of the head,
threw him as far as I could fling a stone. He sank into the
snow, which closed over him, and no one knew what had
become of him till the thaw came on. It was very late that
year, for the ground was not clear till Walpurgis’ Night,
and then they found him, and Nyssen’s broken bottle still
in his hand. It was by that they found out how it had
happened. I would not be the man to touch anything belonging
to Nyssen.”
“Nor I neither,” chimed in the two Norsemen.
“Johnstone and Maxwell both agree for once,” said the
Parson, laughing; “and I will tell you another thing,
neither would I. But now, Mr. Jacob, that we have done
everything that can be expected of us by the spirits of the
air, who, I hope, in common gratitude, will give us fishermen
a cloudy sky and a little bit of a breeze to-morrow,
I must say I should like to take my turn at the cakes
and ale; so let us have whatever you have got in your big
pot there, and bring us a bucket of strawberries and cream
for dessert.”
The dinner was by no means so elaborate an affair as that
of yesterday; this was occasioned, in some measure, by
their want of sport, but, principally, because all had been
far too much engaged in the necessary business of the
camp to think much of eating. The solids, such as they
were, that is to say, beef and pork, out of the harness
cask, were soon despatched, and the huge camp kettle,
one of the old-fashioned ante-Wellingtonian affairs, as big as
a mortar, and nearly as heavy, was sent down to the men,
while the fishermen lounged at full length on the turf, enjoying
their rest over Jacob’s plentiful provision of strawberries
and cream.
Fénélon has, somewhere or other, a fable about a man who
had the power of procuring, “pour son argent,” as the good
Bishop says, half-a-dozen men’s appetites and digestions.
The man does not seem, in the fable, to have made a very
good use of his extraordinary powers, or to have derived
any extraordinary pleasure from them. If he had only
come out campaigning in Norway, he might have had his
five appetites for nothing, and been much the better for
them all.
Meanwhile, the lower table did not at all seem to be in
want of an appetite; the kettle was emptied, and whole heaps
of flad-bröd, sour as verdjuice, and pots of butter, such as no
nose or stomach, out of Norway, could tolerate, were fast
disappearing beneath the unceasing attacks of seven gluttonous
Scandinavians—while, as the twilight darkened, and
diminished the restraint they might possibly have felt at the
presence of their superiors, the noise grew louder and louder.
Jacob began some interminable ballad about the sorrows and
trials of little Kirstin, a very beautiful lady, who went
through all sorts of misfortunes, and did not seem a “bit
better than she should be;” but that goes for nothing at all
in Swedish song, and very little in Swedish life. This he
sang, chorus and all, to his own share. It seemed to affect
the worthy man very little, that he was almost his own
audience; no one seemed to attend him, but his song
went on, stanza after stanza, uninterruptedly, forming a sort
of running accompaniment to the shouts and screams of
“Gammle Norgé,” “Wackere Lota, or, Kari,” which startled
the echoes alternately, according as love, or patriotism, was
the prevailing sentiment.
At last, they began drinking healths—“Skaal Herr
Carblom,” “Skaal for the well-born singer;” for, like the
old Spanish nobility, though they addressed one another as
Tom, Piersen, and so forth, they always gave the interloper
his full title.
“Jeg takker de,” said Jacob, solemnly, without, however,
pausing for one moment in his song.
“Little Kirstin, she came to the bridal hall,—
We will begin with the wooing,—
And a little page answered to her call,
My best beloved, I ne’er can forget you”—
Here broke in Tom, beating time to his music with a horn
which he had replenished to the very brim, and of which he
was imparting the contents very liberally to the turf round
him—
“Wet your clay, Andy!
Out with the brandy!
We live in jolly way,—
Here’s to you, night or day!
Look at sister Kajsa Stina,
See her bottles bright and clear-ah!
Take the horn, good fellow! grin-ah!
Grin and swill and drink like me!”
Jacob’s voice was again audible—
“She tied her horse in the garden there:
We will begin with the wooing”—
“Skaal Thorsen! skaal Tom Engelsk! skaal for the British
navy!”
“Rule, Britannia!” shouted Tom. Jacob went on—
“We will begin with the wooing:
She brushed and—”
Here a general chorus—
“To the brim, young men! fill it up! fill again!
Drain! drain, young men!—’tis to Norway you drain.
Your fathers have sown it,
Your fields they have grown it;
Then quaff it, young men! for he’ll be the strongest
Who drinks of it deepest and sits at it longest.”
Jacob’s voice became audible, like a symphony, between
the verses—
“She brushed and combed her golden hair,”—
when again rose up the wild chorus, overwhelming it under
the volume of sound:
“To the brim, old men! fill it up! fill again!
Drain! drain, old men!—’tis to Norway you drain.
There’s health in the cup,—
Fill it up! fill it up!
And quaff it, old men! for he’ll live the longest
Who drinks of it deepest and likes it the strongest.”
“By the Harp of Bragi,” said Birger, “I’ll back old
Jacob against the field,—that fellow has such bottom!” for
the honest toper’s voice came again dreamily up the hill
where they were sitting, during the pause that followed this
outburst.
“Little Kirstin then passed out from the door,—
We had best begin with the wooing:
She said, I shall hither come no more,—
My best beloved! I never will forget thee.
Forth she went to the garden there,—
We had best begin with the wooing:
She hung herself with her golden hair,—
My best beloved! I never can forget thee.”
“Skaal for Birger! skaal for the brave Lieutenant! skaal
for the royal guard!” shouted one, waxing more bold as the
night drew on.
“Gammle Norgé!” screamed back an opponent, and
immediately Torkel burst out, with his fine bass voice, into
the national song, drowning entirely poor Jacob’s melancholy
ditty, which never got much beyond the wooing after all.
“The hardy Norseman’s house of yore
Was on the foaming wave,
And there he gathered bright renown—
The bravest of the brave.
O, ne’er should we forget our sires,
Wherever we may be;
For they did win a gallant name,
And ruled the stormy sea.
What though our hands be weaker now
Than they were wont to be
When boldly forth our fathers sailed
And conquered Normandy?
We still may sing their deeds of fame,
In thrilling harmony;
They won for us that gallant name,
Ruling the stormy sea!”—
Enthusiasm was at its height, as the full chorus thundered
forth from all the voices—
“Never will we forget our sires,
Wherever we may be;
They won for us that gallant name,
Ruling the stormy sea!”
Whether Jacob joined in it, or persevered in the sorrows
of little Kirstin, it is impossible to say; but the loud-ringing
alto of Birger came in tellingly from the house of the Nobles,
accompanied by the bass of his two friends. The compliment
was taken at once, “Skaal for the high-born Fishermen!”
“Skaal for the noble gentlemen!” “Skaal for Victouria!”
“Skaal for Carl Johann!” “Skaal for England!”
“Skaal for Sweden,” shouted Jacob at last.
“Gammle Norgé! Gammle Norgé! Sweden and Norway!—Sweden
and Norway for ever! Skaal! Skaal!”
“Upon my word,” said the Parson, “some one must have
been shelling out in good earnest. There goes something
stronger than water to all that noise.”
“Well,” said Birger, “it is very true: they did their work
this afternoon like men, and then, instead of going and buying
brandy, and making beasts of themselves, they very properly
sent Torkel as spokesman to me, and asked my permission to
get drunk, which, as they had behaved so well, of course I
granted them, and gave them five or six orts to buy brandy
with.”
The Parson burst out laughing: “Well, Birger, it is very
kind of you, to save them from making beasts of themselves:
rather a novel way of doing it, though.”
“O, it is all right,” said Birger; “that is the way we
always do in my country, we get it over at once: they will
be as sober as judges after this—if we had not indulged them
when they knew they had deserved it, they would always
have been hankering after brandy, and dropping off drunk
when they were most wanted: they will be as sober as judges
after this, I tell you,” he reiterated, observing a slight smile
of incredulity on the faces of both his companions.
“I do not feel quite so confident of their being as sober as
judges to-morrow, as I do about their being as drunk as pigs
to-night,” said the Captain; “though, to be sure, I do not
know what judges are in Norway; but it does seem to me
that five or six orts[12] are rather a liberal allowance, in a
country where one can get roaring drunk for half-a-dozen
skillings.”
“That is just the very thing I do not want them to do,”
said Birger. “Whenever a Norseman gets roaring drunk,
he is sure to kick up a row: it is very much better that they
should get beastly drunk at once; then they go to sleep and
sleep it off, and no one the wiser.”
“I should have thought, though,” said the Captain, “that
you gave them quite enough for that, and a good remainder
for another day into the bargain.”
“It is little you know of the Norwegian, then,” said
Birger, “or, for the matter of that, of the Swede either: he
is not the man to make two bites of a cherry, or to leave his
brandy in the bottom of the keg. Besides, they will consider
themselves upon honour. They asked my leave to get
drunk on this particular night, and I gave them the money
to do it with; it would be absolute swindling, to get drunk
with my money on any other occasion.”
“Upon my word,” said the Captain, “this a terrible drawback
to your beautiful country. Our fellows in Ireland used
to get drunk now and then, to be sure, but they had always
the grace to be ashamed of it. These scoundrels do it in such
a business-like way.”
“Your countryman, Laing, sets that down to the score of
our virtues,” said Birger. “He considers it much better to
act upon principle, like our people, than to yield to temptation,
as your English and Irish sots do. I must say, though,
that he is not half so indulgent to us poor Swedes.”
“My countryman, Laing,” said the Parson, “though a
very observant traveller, is, also, a very extreme republican
and a very prejudiced writer. He gives us facts in
monarchical Sweden, as well as in republican Norway, and he
gives them as he sees them, no doubt; but, he looks at the
two countries through glasses of different tints. Now, my
idea is, that, in point of drunkenness, there is not a pin to
choose.”
“Yes, but there is, though,” said Birger. “The Norwegian
is quarrelsome in his cups; and you will seldom find that in
any part of Sweden, unless in Scånia, and the Scånians are half
Danes yet. I had the precaution to take away those gentlemen’s
knives when I gave them the money for their brandy (and,
I must admit, they gave them up with very good grace), or,
the chances are, that we should have lost the services of that
ass Jacob, and given a job for the Landamptman to-morrow.
Why, half the party-coloured gentlemen in the castle at
Christiania have earned their iron decorations in some
drunken brawl or other.”[13]
“Well, that may be,” said the Parson. “I have not experienced
enough to gainsay you; but you must admit that as
far as simple drinking goes, the two nations have the organ
of drunkenness pretty equally developed.”
“I should think it must be a barrel organ, then,” said the
Captain, “if we are to judge by the quantity it contains.”
“Thank your stars it has got a good many stops in it.
The Scandinavian does not drink irregularly, like your
people whom you can never reckon upon for two days
together. He has his days of solemn drunkenness—some
of them political, such as the coronation; or the king’s
name day; or, here, in Norway, the signing of their cursed
constitution. Some of them, again, are religious—such as
Christmas, and Easter, and Whitsuntide: these are days in
which all Scandinavia gets drunk as one man. And there
are a few little domestic anniversaries besides—such as
christenings and weddings; but, this is all, except a chance
affair, like this; so that, by a glance at the calendar, and a
little inquiry into a man’s private history, you may always
know when to find him sober, and fit for work.”
“Sober, meaning three or four glasses of brandy?” said
the Parson.
“Yes,” said Birger. “He seldom goes beyond that, on
ordinary days; and, therefore, on festivals like this, I think
him very well entitled to make up for it.”
“I think, though,” said the Parson, “when I was in Sweden,
last year, I did see such things as stocks for drunkards,
at some of the church doors.”
“Yes, you did, at all of them; but, you never saw any
one in them. How is a mayor to order a man into the
stocks, for drunkenness, when the chances are, that he was
just as drunk himself on the very same occasion?”
“How do you account for this universal system of drinking
spirits?” said the Captain.
“It is easy enough to account for it,” said the Parson; for
Birger rather shirked the question. “Every landed proprietor
has a right to a private still; the duty is a farthing
a gallon, carriage is difficult, and brandy is much more
portable than corn. Will not this account for some of it?
I do not happen to know what may be the return for
Sweden; but, for Norway, it is somewhat over five million
gallons a-year, in a country which does not grow nearly
enough of corn to support itself; and this, as the population
does not come up to a million and a-half, gives three and
a-half gallons per Christian, to every man, woman, and child,
in the country.”
“Come, come,” said Birger, “if you go to statistics, look
at home. Your Mr. Hume moved, last session, for a return
of all the men that had been picked up, drunk, in the course
of the preceding year; and, in Glasgow alone, there were
nearly fifteen thousand—that is to say, one out of every
twenty-two of the whole population. Do not talk to us of
drunkenness. Did you ever hear of the controversy between
the pot and the kettle?”
“The Scotch are no more our countrymen, than the
Norwegians are yours,” said the Parson; “and, if I recollect
right, that very return gave no more than one in every six
hundred, picked up, drunk, in our Manchester; and Manchester
is not what we call a moral place, either.”[14]
“In that very place, Glasgow,” said the Captain, “where,
for my sins, I was quartered last year, I was actually taken
up before the magistrates, and fined five shillings, for what
the hypocritical sinners call ‘whustling on the Saubboth,’
and it was only Saturday night, either—the rascally Jews!
They are fellows to
Compound for sins they are inclined to
By damning those they have no mind to.
The scoundrels couldn’t whistle a tune themselves on any
day of the week, ‘were it their neck verse at Hairibee;’ they
have no notion of music, beyond the bagpipe and the Scotch
fiddle.”
“Five shillings?” said the Parson, musingly; “that is
just the sum they fine people, in London, for being drunk and
disorderly.”
“Then, in all human probability, the Captain made one
individual item in Mr. Hume’s fifteen thousand himself.”
“Very possibly,” said the Captain. “It was Saturday
night, and I will not say I might not have been a little
screwed. When one is in Turkey one must live as turkeys
live.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “I believe all northern nations
have a natural turn for drunkenness, but laws and regulations
may increase or diminish the amount of it; and the
laws of both these countries tend most particularly to increase
it. With you it is a regular case of ‘Drunkenness made
easy.’ Besides, public opinion sets that way too. If I were
suspected of anything approaching to the state of our friends
down below, I never could face my parish again. Your
parish priest might be carried home and tucked into bed by
a dozen of his faithful and hard-headed parishioners on Saturday
night, and if the thing did not come round too often,
would get up not a pin the worse on Sunday morning, either
in health or in reputation.”
“I think,” said the Captain, “public presents are a very
fair test of public propensities. In the snuffy days of the
last century and the beginning of this, every public character,
from the Duke of Wellington down to William Cobbett, had
the freedoms of all sorts of things given them in golden snuff-boxes.
Now, look at your people. When your king paid a
visit to the University of Upsala, the most appropriate
present he could think of making to that learned body, was
an ancient drinking-horn,—of course, by way of encouraging
the national tastes. And when he made a pilgrimage to
the tomb of Odin and Freya, the most appropriate present
which that learned body could make to him in their turn,
was another ancient drinking-horn, which had the additional
value of having once been the property of those heroic,
but, if there is any truth in Sagas, exceedingly drunken
divinities.”
“Well, well,” said Birger, good-humouredly (and it must
be said that his was a case of good-humour under difficulties),
“every nation has its own national sins to answer for, and it
is no use for me to deny that ours is drunkenness. But what
else can you expect from a people whose ideal of the joys of
heaven used to be fighting all day, and after a huge dinner
of boiled pork, getting beastly drunk upon beer? Gangler,
in the prose Edda, asks Har, ‘How do your Heroes pass
their time in Valhalla when they are not drinking?’ And
Har replies, ‘Every day, as soon as they have dressed themselves,
they ride out into the court, and fight till they cut
each other in pieces. This is their pastime; but when meal-time
approaches, they return to drink in Valhalla.’ Or, if
you will have the same in verse, this is what the Vafthrudnis
Mal says:—
The Einherjir all,
On Odin’s plain,
Hew daily each other
While chosen the slain are;
From the fray they then ride,
And drink ale with the Œsir.”
“After all,” said the Parson, “this is nothing more than a
ghostly tournament; and I have no doubt but that the
haughty tournaments of the middle ages, if deprived of their
mediæval gilding, would be very like the hewings, ale swillings,
and pork banquetings of the Einherjir. I hope, though,
that they brewed good ale in Asgard.”
“I dare say,” said the Captain, “that, after their carousal,
they wanted a little sleep to fit them for the toils of the next
day; I am sure I do, and I vote we try what sort of couches
Birger has prepared for us. Our once merry friends below
seem to be as fast asleep as swine now, and as quiet. To
tell you the truth, I am a little tired with our day’s work,
and we certainly have another good day’s work cut out for us
to-morrow.”
“With all my heart,” said Birger, finishing off what, from
its colour, might have been a glass of water, but was not.
As Odin says—
“No one will charge thee
With evil, if early
Thou goest to slumber.”
“Come along, then,” said the Captain, “turn in; and may
the Nyss to whom we have sacrificed send us to-morrow ‘a
southerly wind and a cloudy sky.’”
There are several national songs in Norway. That which Torkel sings
is an ancient song, and has been adapted and arranged as a chorus, by
Hullah; but it is not that which is generally known as “Gammle
Norgé.” This, though eminently popular, is but a modern composition.
Its author is Bjerregaard, a Norse poet of some eminence. It has been
thus rendered into English by Mr. Latham:—
Minstrel, awaken the harp from its slumbers!
Strike for old Norway, the land of the free!
High and heroic in soul-stirring numbers,
Clime of our fathers, we strike it for thee!
Old recollections
Awake our affections,—
They hallow the name of the land of our birth;
Each heart beats its loudest,
Each cheek glows its proudest,
For Norway the Ancient, the Throne of the Earth!
Spirit! look back on her far-flashing glory,
The far-flashing meteor that bursts on thy glance,
On chieftain and hero immortal in story,
They press to the battle like maids to the dance.
The blood flows before them,
The wave dashes o’er them,
They reap with the sword what they plough with the keel;
Enough that they leave
To the country that bore them
Bosoms to bleed for her freedom and weal.
The Shrine of the Northman, the Temple of Freedom,
Stands like a rock where the stormy wind breaks;
The tempests howl round it, but little he’ll heed them,—
Freely he thinks, and as freely he speaks.
The bird in its motion,
The wave in its ocean,
Scarcely can rival his liberty’s voice;
Yet he obeys,
With a willing devotion
Laws of his making and kings of his choice.
Land of the forest, the fell, and the fountain,—
Blest with the wealth of the field and the flood,—
Steady and truthful, the sons of thy mountain,
Pay the glad price of thy rights with their blood.
Ocean hath bound thee,
Freedom hath found thee,—
Flourish, old Norway, thy flag be unfurled!
Free as the breezes
And breakers around thee—
The pride of thy children, the Throne of the World!
CHAPTER IX. THE HELL FALL.
“If thou hadst not been leading a life of sin—
The sun shines over Enen—
Thou wouldst have given me water thy bare hand within—
Under the linden green.
Now, this is the penance that on thee I lay:
Eight years in the wood shalt thou live from this day,
And no food shall pass thy lips between,
Save only the leaves of the linden green;
And no other drink shalt thou have at all,
Save the dew on the linden leaves so small;
And no other bed shall be pressed by thee,
Save only the roots of the linden tree.
When eight long years were gone and spent,
Jesus the Lord to Magdalene went—
Now shall Heaven’s mercy thee restore—
The sun shines over Enen—
Go, Magdalena, and sin no more
Under the linden green.”
Svenska Folk-visor.
Whether the Spirits of the Flood and Fell considered
themselves complimented by the homage which had been paid
to them, or whether things would have turned out exactly
the same had there been no offering at all, is a mystery of
mythology which we will not take upon ourselves to determine.
Certain it is, that when the next morning was ushered
in with a soft westerly breeze and a dull cloudy sky, interspersed
with bright transient gleams of joyous sunshine, such
as salmon love, the Nyssar got the credit of it all. Not that
the Norwegians were at first aware of the extent of their
blessings, for the barbarians are all unversed in the mysteries
of fly-fishing, but they were not long in finding it out, from
the smiling looks and congratulatory expressions of their
employers.
Englishmen might have felt dull and heavy after the consumption
of such enormous quantities of brandy: English
heads might have ached, and English hands might have felt
shaky during the operation of getting sober. Thor himself
could not have risen from the challenge cup, set before him
by Loki Utgard, with more complete self-possession than did
Tom and Torkel, and the mighty Jacob. Sleep and drink
had fled with the shades of night, and it was a steady hand
that served out the coffee that morning.
The party had long separated to their respective pursuits,
for the impatience of the fishermen and the actual dearth of
provisions in the camp did not allow of idling.
Towards noon the breeze had entirely sunk, and the sun,
having succeeded in dispelling the clouds, was shining in its
summer strength into the confined valley, concentrating its
rays from the encircling rocks upon the channel of the river,
and pouring them on the encampment as on the focus of a
burning-glass.
It was not, however, a depressing, moist, stewing heat;
there was a lightness and elasticity in the air unknown in
southern climes, or if known at all, known only on the higher
Alps, and in the middle of the summer. Men felt the heat,
no doubt, and the thermometer indicated a high degree of
temperature; but there was nothing in it enervating, nothing
predisposing to slothfulness or inaction; on the contrary, the
nerves seemed braced under it, and the spirits buoyant.
Work and exercise were a pleasure, not a toil; and if the
Parson did stretch himself out under the shade of the great
birch tree, it was the natural result of a well-spent morning
of downright hard work. Wielding a flail is a trifle compared
to wielding a salmon rod; and he and the Captain had,
both of them, wielded it that morning to some purpose, for
the salmon had not been unmindful of the soft breeze and
the cloudy skies, but had risen to the fly with appetites truly
Norwegian.
Jacob and Torkel, with one of the boatmen in the distance,
were up to their eyes in salt and blood, cleaning, splitting,
salting, and otherwise preparing the spare fish for a three
days’ sojourn in the smoking-house; while three or four
bright-looking fresh run salmon, selected from the heap, and
ready crimped for the kettle or toasting skewers, were glittering
from under the green and constantly-wetted branches,
with which they were protected from the heat of the day.
Birger, who was much more at home with his gun than
with his fishing-rod, had gone out that morning early, attended
by his two men, in order to reconnoitre the country,
and see what its capabilities were; for the Parson’s report
had been confined to its excellencies as a fishing station. The
Captain was still on the river; every now and then distant
glimpses of his boat could be seen as he shifted from throw
to throw, and occasionally condescended even to harl the
river, by way of resting his arms. Such a fishing morning
as they had enjoyed, is not often to be met with, and the
Captain would not take the hint which the cloudless sun had
been giving him for the last half-hour.
The Parson, whose rod was pitched in a neighbouring
juniper, and whose fly, a sober dark-green, as big as a bird,
floated out faintly in the expiring breeze, was stretched at
full length on the turf, occupied, so far as a tired man who is
resting himself can be said to be occupied at all, in watching
the motions of a little red-headed woodpecker, that was darting
from branch to branch and from tree to tree, making the
forest ring again with its sharp succession of taps, as it drove
the insects out of their hiding-places beneath the outside
bark. Taps they were, no doubt, and given by the bird’s
beak, too, but by no means like the distinct and deliberate tap
of the yellow woodpecker, every one of which may be counted:
so rapid were they, that they sounded more like the scrooping
of a branch torn violently from the tree, and so loud, that
it was difficult to conceive that such a sound could be caused
by a bird comparatively so diminutive.
The woodpecker, which seemed almost tame and by no
means disconcerted by the presence of strangers, pursued its
occupation with the utmost confidence, though quite within
reach of the Parson’s rod.
“Take care,” said the Parson, as Torkel approached, “do
not disturb it.”
“Disturb what?” said Torkel.
The Parson pointed to the woodpecker, which was not a
dozen yards from them. The bird paused a moment, and
looked at them, but evinced no symptoms of timidity.
“What, the Gertrude-bird?” said Torkel; “no one would
disturb her while working out her penance, poor thing! She
knows that well enough; look at her.” And, in truth, the
bird did seem to know it, for another loud rattle of taps
formed an appropriate accompaniment to Torkel’s speech;
though Birger and the Captain at that moment came up, the
one with his last fish, the other with a couple of ducks, a
tjäder, and two brace of grouse, of one sort or another,
which he had met with during his morning’s exploration.
The Parson nodded to the Captain, congratulated Birger,
but, ever ready for a legend, turned round to Torkel.
“What do you mean by a Gertrude-bird, and what is her
penance?” said he.
Birger smiled—not unbelievingly, though; for the legend
is as well known in Sweden as it is in Norway; and
few people, in either of these countries, who believe in anything
at all, are altogether sceptical on matters of popular
superstition.
“That bird,” said Torkel, “or at least her ancestors, was
once a woman; and it is a good lesson that she reads us
every time we see her. God grant that we may all be the
better for it,” he added, reverentially.
“One day she was kneading bread, in her trough, under
the eaves of her house, when our Lord passed by, leaning on
St. Peter. She did not know that it was the Lord and his
Apostle, for they looked like two poor men, who were travelling
past her cottage door.”
“‘Give us of your dough, for the love of God,’ said the
Lord Christ; ‘we have come far across the fjeld, and have
fasted long!’
“Gertrude pinched off a small piece for them, but on rolling
it on her trough to get it into shape, it grew and grew,
and filled up the trough completely. She looked at it in
wonder. ‘No,’ said she, ‘that is more than you want;’ so
she pinched off a smaller piece, and rolled it out as before;
but the smaller piece filled up the trough, just as the
other had done, and Gertrude put it aside, too, and pinched
a smaller bit still. But the miracle was just the same; the
smaller bit filled up the trough as full as the largest-sized
kneading that she had ever put in it.
“Gertrude’s heart was hardened still more; she put that
aside too, resolving, so soon as the strangers had left her, to
divide all her dough into little bits, and to roll it out into
great loaves. ‘I cannot give you any to-day,’ said she; ‘go
on your journey, and the Lord prosper you, but you must
not stop at my house.’
“Then the Lord Christ was angry; and her eyes were
opened, and she saw whom she had forbidden to come into
her house, and she fell down on her knees; but the Lord said,
‘I gave you plenty, but that hardened your heart, so plenty
was not a blessing to you; I will try you now with the
blessing of poverty; you shall from henceforth seek your food
day by day, and always between the wood and the bark.[15]
But forasmuch as I see your penitence to be sincere, this
shall not be for ever: as soon as your back is entirely clothed
in mourning this shall cease, for by that time you will have
learned to use your gifts rightly.’
“Gertrude flew from the presence of the Lord, for she was
already a bird, but her feathers were blackened already, from
her mourning; and from that time forward she and her
descendants have, all the year round, sought their food between
the wood and the bark; but the feathers of their back
and wings get more mottled with black as they grow older;
and when the white is quite covered the Lord Christ takes
them for his own again. No Norwegian will ever hurt a
Gertrude-bird, for she is always under the Lord’s protection,
though he is punishing her for the time.”
“Bravo, Torkel,” said the Parson. “I could not preach
a better sermon than that myself, or give you sounder
theology.”
“You seem always on the look-out for a superstition,”
said the Captain.
“So I am,” said the Parson. “There is nothing that
displays the character of a people so well as their national
legends.”
“But do you not consider that in lending your countenance
to them, and looking as if you believed them, you are lending
your countenance to superstition itself?”
“Well,” said the Parson, “what would you have me do?
laugh them out of it, like Miss Martineau? And if I succeeded
in that, which I should not, what should I have done
then? Why, opened a fallow for scepticism. Superstition
is the natural evidence of the Unseen in the minds of the
ignorant; to be superstitious, is to believe in a Being superior
to ourselves; and this is in itself the first step to spiritual
advancement. Inform the mind, teaching it to distinguish
the true from the false, and superstition—that is to say, the
reverence for the unseen—brightens into true religion.
Take it away by force, or quench it by ridicule, and you
have an unoccupied corner of the soul for every bad passion
to take root in. Superstition is the religion of the
ignorant.”
“Well, there is truth in that,” said the Captain. “When
a boy becomes a man, he will not play prison-base, or go a
bird’s-nesting; but prison-base and bird’s-nesting are no bad
preparation for manly daring and gallant enterprise.”
“Very true; and when the boy is capable of the latter
he will leave off his prison-base and bird’s-nesting without
any trouble on your part.”
“There are good superstitions as well as bad,” said Birger.
“To be afraid of thinning down a noxious bird, like the
magpie, as our people are, because the devil has them under
his protection, is a bad superstition. It is a distrust in the
power and providence of God; but, though it is equally a
superstition to imagine that one bird is more a favourite with
God than another, yet the boy who, in your country, in the
ardour of his first shooting expedition, turns aside his gun
because
Cock-robins and kitty-wrens
Are God Almighty’s cocks and hens;
or, in our country, from the Gertrude-bird, because she is
working out the penance which Christ has imposed upon her,
has, in so doing, exercised self-denial, has acknowledged the
existence of a God, and has admitted the sanctity of His
protection. Many a superstition has as good a moral as a
parable, and this is one of them.”
The approach of dinner at once scared away the Gertrude-bird,
and put an end to Birger’s moralising; and as they
discussed the pink curdy salmon, the produce of the morning’s
sport, and revelled in the anticipation of strawberry and
raspberry jam, the fumes of which every now and then were
wafted to them from the kitchen, and in the certainty of roast
game and smoked fish for future consumption, they laid their
plans for the afternoon’s sport.
The sun was still shining in its strength and cloudlessness,
and bade fair so to shine for the rest of the day; and the
breeze, which had been for some time failing, had now sunk
into a perfect calm. No salmon or trout were to be caught
by the usual means—that was clear enough. Jacob, however,
who had procured what might be called with great propriety
a kettle of fish, for he had borrowed from a neighbouring
farm-house one of the kettles in which they simmer
their milk, and had got it full of minnows and other small
fry—proposed setting his långref. This was unanimously
assented to, for occupation is pleasing, and so is variety;
and eels, pike, and flounders, which were likely to be
its produce, were no bad additions to a larder less remarkable
for the variety of its provisions than for their
abundance.
But the grand scheme was one proposed by the Captain,
who had been reconnoitring the higher parts of the river,
and had discovered a very likely place for a bright day,
but one which could not be reached from the shore, or by
any of the ordinary means of propelling a boat. It was a
fall terminating, not as falls generally do, in a huge basin,
but in a shoot or rapid of considerable length, like a gigantic
mill race, which, after a straight but turbulent course of a
couple of hundred yards, shot all at once into the middle of a
round and eddying pool. It was called the Hell Fall, probably
from its fury, for the word is Norske; but possibly
also, from Hela’s Fall, Hela being the Goddess of Darkness;
and well did the yawning chasm, through which the waters
rushed, deserve that name, overshadowed as it was by its
black walls of rock. It was upon this that the Captain had
reckoned; whatever were the case with the rest of the world,
sunshine or storm must be alike to it, and to the tenants of
its gloomy recesses.
The Captain was confident the thing could be done, and
the Parson was as confident that if it could be done, and the
fly introduced into the numerous turn-holes round which the
water boiled and bubbled, the rapid would require neither
cloud nor wind to make it practicable. And Birger, who
was a great man at contrivances, asseverated strongly that it
should be done.
The first job, however, was to set the långref, and that
was a mode of poaching with which they were all familiar.
The långref, a line of two or three hundred fathoms in length,
with a snood and a hook at each fathom, was baited from
the minnow kettle, and coiled, so that the baited hooks lay
together on a board; and one end having been made fast to
a stump on the landing place, the boat was pulled diagonally
down and across the stream, and the line gradually paid out
in such a manner that the hooks were carried by the current,
so as to hang free of the back line; the other end, which
came within a few yards of the farther bank, was anchored
by a heavy stone, backed by a smaller one, and the whole
affair left to fish for itself.
In the meanwhile, some of the men had been sent forward
with ropes, and with the boat-hooks and oars belonging
to the expedition; for, though boats are always procurable
in a place where the river forms the usual means of communication,
their gear is not always to be relied on in cases of
difficulty.
The fishermen selected their short lake rods, as better
adapted to the work they were going about than the great
two-handed salmon rods with which they had been fishing
that morning; and having fitted fresh casting lines, which, in
consideration of the work they were going about, were of the
strongest twisted gut they could find, they took the path up
the river.
“I wonder what are the proper flies of this river,” said
the Captain. “In Scotland every place has its own set of
flies, and you are always told that you will do nothing at all,
unless you get the very colours and the very flies peculiar to
the river.”
“You seem to have done pretty well on this river, at all
events,” said Birger, “without any such information.”
“No information is to be despised,” said the Parson.
“The oldest fisherman will always find something to be
learnt from men who have passed their lives on a particular
stream, and have studied it from their boyhood. There is,
however, only one general principle, and that will always
hold good. By this the experienced fisherman will never be
at a loss about suiting his fly to the water. Here is the
Captain now; we have had no consultation, and yet I will
venture to say that we are both fishing with flies of a similar
character. What fly did you catch your fish with, this
morning, Captain?”
“I have been using my old Scotch flies,” said the Captain,
“such as they tie on the Tay and Spey,[16] and the largest of
the sort I could find.”
“To be sure you did; and tell Birger why you did not use
your Irish flies.”
“They were too gaudy for the water,” said the Captain.
“That, Birger, will give you the principle,” said the
Parson. “The Captain has been very successful with flies
belonging to another river; now, look at mine, which I tied
last night, while I was waiting till you came home from
sacrificing to Nyssen. Except in size, this is as different as
possible from the Captain’s; and yet its principle is precisely
the same; mine is a green silk body, black hackle, blackcock
wing, no tinsel, and nothing bright about it, except this
single golden pheasant topping for a tail. Now, the Tay
flies are quite different to look at; they are mostly brown
or dun pig’s wool bodies, with natural red or brown hackles
and mallard wings; but the principle of both is the same;
they are sober, quiet flies, with no glitter or gaudiness about
them; and the Captain shall tell you what induced him to
select such as these.”
“I chose the largest fly I could find,” said the Captain;
“because the water here is very deep and strong; and as
the salmon lies near the bottom, I must have a large fly to
attract his attention; but I must not have a gaudy fly,
because the water is so clear that the sparkle of the tinsel
would be more glittering than anything in nature; and the
fish, when he had risen and come near enough to distinguish
it, would be very apt to turn short.”
“You have it now, precisely,” said the Parson; “the
depth of the water regulates the size of the fly, and the
clearness of the water its colours. This rule, of course, is
not without exceptions; if it were, there would be no
science in fishing. The sun, the wind, the season, the state
of the atmosphere must also be taken into consideration;
for instance, this rapid we are going to fish now, is the very
same water we have been fishing in below, and therefore
just as clear, but it is rough, and overhung by rocks and
trees. I mean, therefore, to put on a gayer fly than anything
we have used hitherto. But here we are,” he said, as
they looked down upon the rush of waters, “and upon my
word, an ugly place it is.”
The Parson might well say that, for the waters were rushing
below with frightful rapidity. Above them was the
fall, where the river, compressed into a narrow fissure, shot
through it like an enormous spout, into a channel, wider
certainly than the spout itself, but still very narrow; while
the perpendicular walls reminded the spectators of an artificial
lock right in the middle of the stream; at the very
foot of the fall, was a solid rock, on the back of which the
waters heaped themselves up, and found their way into the
straight channel by rushing round it. In fact, without this
check, their rapidity would have been too great for anything
to swim in them; and as it was they looked anything but
inviting.
“A very awkward place!” said the Parson! “and how do
you mean to fish this?”
“Come away a little from the roar of the waters,” said the
Captain, “and I will explain my plans. You see that flat
ledge of rock below us, just above the rush of the water;
that spot we can reach by means of the rope. Make it fast
to that tree, Tom: you learned knotting in the English
navy, you know.”
Tom grinned, and did as he was told, and the Captain
ascertained the strength of his work practically, by climbing
down the face of the rock, and reconnoitring personally the
ledge he had pointed out.
“Now,” said he, when he had returned, “we will get the
boat as near as we can to this rush of water, and then veer
out a rope to her from this rock: birch ropes will float, and
the stream is quite sufficient to carry it down. If we make
the boat fast to this, we may command every inch of the
rapid, and you see yourself, how many turn-holes are made
by the points of the rock which project from either side.
You may depend upon it, every one of these contains a
salmon, and the water is so troubled and covered with foam,
that not one of these fish will know or care whether the sun
is shining or not.”
“I think your reasoning is sound enough,” said the Parson;
“but if the boat capsizes, the best swimmer in Norway
would be drowned, or knocked to pieces against these rocky
points.”
“But what is to capsize the boat? I am not going to
take young hands with me; we all know our work; at all
events, I mean to make the first trial of my own plan myself,
you have nothing to do but to stand on the rock, and haul
up the boat.”
The Parson looked at Birger.
“I do not think there is much danger,” said he; “and if
the Captain will manage the rod, I will see to the boat.
Tom shall take the other oar.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “you have left me the safest
job; but I do not quite like to see you do it. However,
I suppose you will; so here goes to see that you
run no more danger than is absolutely necessary.” So
saying, he eased himself down the rope to the flat rock,
followed by Torkel and Pierson, who had previously
thrown down a coil of birch rope; while the Captain, Birger,
and Tom went down to the place below the rapid, where
the boat was moored to a stump of a tree that grew over the
river.
The birch rope floated on the top of the racing water, and
soon reached the great turn-hole below the rapid, where the
current was not so furious but that the boat could easily be
managed. After one or two misses, Birger caught the end
of it with his boat-hook, and, passing it round all the
thwarts, secured it to the aftermost one; placing an axe in
the stern sheets, in which the Captain had seated himself
with his short lake-rod in his hand, Tom sat amidships with
the paddles, while Birger himself stood forward with the
boat-hook, to fend off from any point of rock that the eddies
might sheer the boat against.
When all was ready, he waved his cap—for no voice could
be heard amid the roar of water—and the Parson and
his party began steadily hauling on the rope. The boat
entered the dark cleft, and, though her progress was very
slow, cut a feather through the water, as if she were racing
over it.
Tom, by dipping one or other paddle, steered from side
to side, as he was bid; and the Captain threw his fly into
the wreaths of foam which gathered in the dark corners; for
in the most furious of rapids, there will always be spots of
water perfectly stationary, where the eddies, that have
been turned off by projecting rocks, meet again the
main current; and, in those places, the salmon will invariably
rest themselves, accomplishing their passage, as it
were, by stages.
From side to side swung the boat—now at rest, now
hauled upon by the line, according to the messages which
Birger telegraphed with his cap; but, for some time, without
any result, except that of convincing the Parson that the
dangers he apprehended, were more in appearance than in
reality; so that they were beginning to think that their ingenuity
would be the sole reward of their pains. At length,
there was a sudden tug at the line, the water was far too
agitated to permit the rise to be seen, and the Captain’s rod
bent like a bow.
“Haul up, a few fathoms,” said he, raising his rod so as to
get his line, as much as possible, out of the action of the
water, which was forcing it into a bight. “Now, steer
across, Tom, to the opposite side. We must try the
strength of the tackle—‘Pull for the half,’ as we say in
Ireland.”
The fish had not attempted to run, knowing that its best
chance of safety was in the hole in which it lay, but had
sunk sulkily to the bottom. No sooner, however, did the
boat feel the current on her bow, than she sheered across to
the opposite side; and the Captain, stopping his line from
running out, drew the salmon by main force from its shelter,
who, feeling the strength of the current, for a moment attempted
to stem it; but soon, the Captain, adroitly dropping
his hand, turned tail and raced away, downward, with the
combined velocity of the stream, and its own efforts.
The Captain paused a moment, to make sure that the
fish was in earnest, and then cut the rope; and boat, fish,
and all, came tumbling down the rapid into the turn-hole
below.
Once there, it became an ordinary trial of skill between
man and fish—such as always occurs whenever a salmon is
hooked in rough water—and that the Captain was well up
to. It was impossible for it again to head up the dangerous
ground of the rapid, or to face the rush of the waters with
the strain of the line upon it; so it raced backwards and
forwards, and up and down in the deep pool, while Tom
took advantage of every turn to paddle his boat quietly into
still water. At last, the Captain succeeded in turning his
fish under a projecting tree, upon which the Parson, who, as
soon as he had seen the turn matters were likely to take, had
shinned up the rope, and hurried to the scene of action, was
standing gaff in hand to receive it.
“Well done, all hands!” said the Captain, as the Parson
freed his gaff from the back fin of a twenty-pound salmon, and
Birger hooked on to the tree, and brought his boat to shore.
“Well done, all hands! it was no easy matter to invade such
territories as that; but one wants a little additional excitement
after such a fishing morning as we have had.”
“I think we may set you down as bene meritus de patriâ,”
said the Parson; “it is just as well to have a fresh resource
on a bright afternoon like this; the time may come when we
may want it.”
“Now, then, for another fish,” said the Captain; “Birger
shall try his hand at the rod this time.”
Birger would have excused himself on account of his want
of skill, but was very easily persuaded, and, thus they took
turns, now securing a fish, now cutting a line against an
unseen rock, now losing one by downright hard pulling,
till, when the light began to fail, and the dangers to grow
more real from the darkness, they made fast their boat
to the stump, and returned victorious to the camp, having
added three or four fish to their store, and those the finest
they had caught that day.[17]
CHAPTER X. DEPARTURE FROM TORJEDAHL.
“Og Trolde, Hexer, Nysser i hver Vraae.”
Finn Magnussen.
And Witches, Trolls, and Nysses in each nook.
“Hallo! what is the matter now?” said the Captain, who had
been out with his gun that morning, and on his return caught
sight of the Parson sitting disconsolate on the river’s bank.
By the waters of Torjedahl we sat down and wept. “What
has gone wrong?”
“Why, everything has gone wrong,” said the Parson
peevishly; “look at my line.”
“You do seem to have lost your casting line, certainly.”
“Yes, I have, and half my reel line beside.”
“Very tinkerish, I dare say, but do not grieve over it; put
on a new one and hold your tongue about it; no one saw
you, and I promise not to tell.”
“How can you be so absurd?” said the Parson, “look at
the river, and tell me how we are to fish that; just look at
those baulks of timber floating all over it. I had on as
fine a fish as ever I saw in my life,—five-and-twenty pounds
if he was an ounce, when down came these logs, and one of
them takes my reel line, with sixty yards out, and cuts it right
in the middle.”
“Well, that is provoking,” said the Captain, “enough to
make a saint swear, let alone a parson; but, hang it, man, it
is only once in the way. Come along, do not look behind you;
I am in a hurry to be at it myself, I came home on purpose,
I was ashamed to waste so glorious a fishing day as this in
the fjeld.”
“That is just the thing that annoys me,” said the Parson;
“it is, as you say, a most lovely fishing day,—I never saw a
more promising one; and I have just heard that these logs
will take three days floating by at the very least, and while
they are on the river I defy the best fisherman in all England
to land anything bigger than a graul.”
“Why,” said the Captain, “have the scoundrels been
cutting a whole forest?”
“This is what Torkel tells me,” said the Parson; “he says
that in the winter they cut their confounded firs, and when
the snow is on the ground they just square them, haul them
down to the river or its tributaries, where they leave them to
take care of themselves, and when the ice melts in the spring,
down come the trees with it. But there are three or four
lakes, it seems, through which this river passes—that, by-the-by,
is the reason why it is so clear; and, as the baulks
would be drifting all manner of ways when they got into
these lakes, and would get stranded on the shores instead of
going down the stream, they make what they call a boom
at or near the mouth of the river, that is to say, they chain
together a number of baulks, end-ways, and moor them in a
bight across the river, so that they catch everything that
floats. Here they get hold of the loose baulks, make them
into rafts, and navigate them along the lakes, launching them
again into the river at the other end, and catching them
again at the next boom in the same way. They have, it
seems, just broken up the contents of one of these booms
above us. It will take three days to clear it out, and another
day for the straggling pieces.”
“Whew!” said the Captain, “three blessed days taken
from the sum of our lives; what on earth is to be done?”
“Well,” said the Parson, “that is exactly what we must
see about, for it is quite certain that there is nothing to be
done on the water. Before I began grumbling I sent off
Torkel to look for Birger—for we must hold a council of
war upon it. O! there is Birger,” said he, as they crossed
the little rise which forms the head of the Aal Foss and came
in sight of the camp and the river below it; “Torkel must
have missed him.”
“Hallo!” said Birger, who was with Piersen in one of
the boats, fishing up with his boat-hook the back line of the
långref, and apparently he had made an awkward mess of it—“hallo
there! get another boat and come and help me, these
baulks have played Old Scratch with the långref; it has
made a goodly catch, too, last night, as far as I can see, but
we want more help to get it in.”
The Parson had the discretion to keep his own counsel,
but the fact was, it was he who was the cause both of the
abundant catch and of the present trouble. The small eels
had been plaguing them, for some nights successively, by
sucking off and nibbling to pieces baits which they were too
small to swallow, and thus preventing the larger fish from
getting at them. The Parson had seen this, and had set his
wits to work to circumvent them. By attaching corks to
the back line, he had floated the hooks above the reach of
the eels, which he knew would never venture far from the
bottom, while pike, gös, id, perch, the larger eels, and occasionally
even trout, would take the floating bait more readily
when they found it in mid-water.
This would have done exceedingly well, had he looked at
it early in the morning; that, however, he had not exactly
forgotten, but had neglected to do. Time was precious, and
he was unwilling to waste it on hauling the långref. Jacob,
whose business it was to haul it, had been sent down to
Christiansand on the preceding day, with two of the boatmen,
for supplies, and had not yet returned; and the Parson,
holding his tongue about his experiment, and proposing to
himself the pleasure of hauling the långref when the mid-day
sun should be too hot for salmon-fishing, had gone out
early with his two-handed rod. In the meanwhile the
baulks had come down, and the very first of them, catching
the centre of the floating bight, had cut it in two, and had
thus permitted the whole of the Parson’s great catch of fish
to entangle themselves at their pleasure.
It was these disjecta membra that Birger was busying himself
about; the task was not an easy one; and if it were, the
guardsman was not altogether a proficient. But, even when
the reinforcement arrived, there was nothing to be done beyond
lifting the whole tangle bodily into the boat, releasing
the fish from the hooks, and then, partly by patience, partly
by a liberal use of the knife, to get out the tangle on
shore. The further half gave them the most trouble to find;
it had been moored to a stone, and the back line had been
strong enough to drag it some way down the river before it
broke. It was, however, at last discovered and secured, and
the catch was of sufficient magnitude to ensure a supply of
fish, notwithstanding the logs.
“Stop a minute,” said the Captain, as the boats’ heads
were put up the stream on their return; “we have not
got all the långref yet, I am sure; I see another fish; just
pull across that ripple, Parson, a few yards below the end of
that stranded log. Yes, to be sure it is, and a salmon, too, and
as dead as Harry the Eighth. Steady there! hold water!”
and he made a rake for the line with his boat-hook. “Why,
what have we got here? it is much too fine for the långref.
As I live, it is your own line. To be sure; here it runs.
Steady! Let me get a hold of it with my hand, it may not
be hitched in the wood firmly, and if it slips we shall lose it
entirely. That will do: all right. That must be the log
that broke you; it must have stranded here after coming
down the Aal Foss, with the fish still on it—and—hurrah!
here is the fish all safe—and, I say, Parson, remarkably fine
fish it is, certainly! not quite twenty-five pounds, though,”—holding
up the fish by the tail, and measuring it against
his own leg; for his trousers were marked with inches, from
the pocket-button downwards,—a yard measure having been
stitched on the seam. “You have not such a thing as a
steelyard, have you?”
The Parson, laughing—rather confusedly, though,—produced
from his slip pocket the required instrument.
“Ah! I thought so, ten pounds and a half; the biggest
fish always do get away, that is certain, especially if they
are not caught again; it is a thousand pities I put my eye
on this one. I have spoilt your story?”
“Well, well,” said the Parson, “if you have spoilt my story,
you have made a good one for yourself, so take the other oar
and let us pull for the camp.”
“Birger,” said the Captain, when the boats had been made
fast, and the spoils left in the charge of Piersen, “Torkel has
been telling the Parson that we are to have three days of
these logs. If the rascal speaks the truth, what is to be done
by us fishermen?”
“The rascal does speak the truth in this instance, I will
be bound for it,” said Birger; “he knows the river well,
and besides, it is what they do on every river in Norway
that is deep enough to float a baulk.”
“What is to be done, then? there is no fishing on the river
while this is going on.”
“I will tell you what we can do,” said Birger; “two or
three days ago—that day when I returned to the camp so
late—if you remember, I told you that I had fallen in with
a lonely lake in the course of my rambles. There was a
boat there belonging to a sœter in the neighbourhood, which
Piersen knew of, and I missed a beautiful chance at a flight
of ducks. However, that is neither here nor there; the
people at the sœter told me that the great lake-char was to
be found there; so the next day I sent Piersen, who understands
laying lines if he does not understand fly-fishing, to
set some trimmers for them. I vote we shoot our way to
the lake, look at these lines, get another crack at the ducks,
and make our way to the Toftdahl (which, if the map is to
be trusted, must be somewhere within reach), fish there for a
day, shoot our way back again, and by that time the wooden
flood will be over.”
“Bravo, Birger,” said the Captain, “a very promising plan,
and here, in good time, comes Commissary-General Jacob
with the supplies. I see his boat just over that point, entangled
among a lump of logs. I vote we take him with us;
no man makes such coffee. I have not had a cup worth
drinking since you sent him down the river.”
“You cannot take the poor fellow a long march to-day,”
said the Parson, considerately, “he has just been pulling up
the stream from Christiansand.”
“He pull! is that all you know of Jacob? I will venture
to say he has not pulled a stroke since he started;
look at the rascal, how he lolls at his ease, with his legs over
the hamper, while the men are half in the water, struggling
their way through the obstacles.”
“I see the scamp,” said the Parson; “upon my word, he
puts me in mind of what the nigger observed on landing in
England; man work, horse work, ox work, everything work,
pig the only gentleman; Jacob is the only gentleman in our
expedition.”
“I admire that man,” said Birger; “that is the true practical
philosophy, never to do anything for yourself if you can
get other people to do it for you. But I think those fellows
had better make haste about it. I have known such a hitch
of timber as that bridge the whole river, from side to side, in
ten minutes; they accumulate very rapidly when they once
take ground—ah! there goes the boat free; all right; but I
certainly began to tremble for my provisions.”
“Well, then, we will take gentleman Jacob,” said the
Captain, “I cannot give up my coffee.”
“I think so,” said Birger; “we will leave our three boatmen
here in charge of the camp; Tom, Torkel, and Piersen
can carry the fishing-rods and our knapsacks, which we must
pack in light marching order. Jacob shall provide for the
kitchen, and we will each of us take a day’s provisions in our
havresacs, and our guns on our shoulders; the odds are, we
knock over grouse and wild fowl, by the way, enough to
supply us nobly. And even if we do not meet with sport,
we shall at all events have a pleasant pic-nicking trip, and
see something of the country, while the Parson, who is so
fond of open air, may indulge himself with sleeping under a
tree, and contemplating the moon at his ease.”
Torkel, who had come up while they were watching Jacob’s
progress, and had learnt their plans, informed them of a
sœter which lay nearly in their proposed course, and in which
he had himself often received hospitality.
“Well, then,” said the Captain, “that will do for us, and
we will leave the Parson, if he prefers it,
“His hollow tree,
His crust of bread and liberty.”
“You may laugh,” said the Parson, “but the time will
come when you will find out certain disagreeables in a Norwegian
dwelling, which may make you think with less contempt
on the hollow tree.”
“The Parson is of the same mind as the Douglas,” said the
Captain, “he likes better to hear the lark sing, than the
mouse squeak.”
“I like clean heather better than dirty sheep-skin,” said
the Parson.
“And musquitoes better than fleas,” added the Captain.
“Bother the musquitoes: I did not think of them.”[18]
“They will soon remind you,” said Birger, “if we happen
to encamp near standing water.” And he went on packing
his knapsack to the tune of “Should Auld Acquaintance
be Forgot,” which he whistled with considerable taste and
skill.[19]
Arrangements, such as these, are soon made; the three
boatmen were left in charge of the camp, with full permission
to get as drunk as they pleased; and, before Jacob
had well stretched his legs, which had been cramped in
the boat, he was stretching them on the mountain-side,
marching a good way in the rear of the party, and grumbling
as he marched.
The mountains, which, all the way from Christiansand,
hem in the river, so that not even a goat can travel along its
banks, at Mosse Eurd and Wigeland recede on both sides,
forming a sort of basin; and here, in a great measure, they
lose their abrupt and perpendicular character. Close by the
water-side, there are a hundred, or two, of acres of inclosed
ground comparatively flat, and either arable or meadow; not
by any means in a ring fence, but spots cribbed here and there
from the fjeld, which looks more like a gentleman’s park
than anything else, with these little paddocks fenced out of
it. The houses, too, are quite the picturesque houses that
gentlemen in England ornament their estates with, so that
the untidy plank fences seemed altogether out of character
with the scenery. What one would look for here, is the
neat park palings of England, or its trim quickset hedges.
Beyond this, the ground becomes more broken and
wooded, but without losing its parkish character; it is
something like the forest grounds of the South Downs in
England, only broken into detached hills and deep rises,
with, occasionally, a bare ridge of rock forcing its way through
the short green turf. The forest was mostly birch, with a
few maples and sycamores, and, here and there, a fir; but
every tree big enough for a timber stick, had long ago been
floated down to the boom at Christiansand. The character
of the whole scene was prettiness rather than beauty. The
mountains, however, were no lower than they had been
further down the river; it was as if their perpendicular
sides had, in some antediluvian age, given way, and that, in
the course of centuries, the fragments had become covered
with trees and verdure.
Among these broken pieces of mountain it was extremely
easy for the traveller to lose his way; there was not the
vestige of a path, that is to say, a path leading to any place
to which he could possibly want to go. The grass was
particularly good and sweet there, and sheep and cows are
intensely conservative in their idiosyncracy; so stoutly had
they kept up the principle of stare super antiquas vias, that
the appearance was as if the whole region was thickly
inhabited and intersected with foot-paths in every direction,
while every animal that helps to make them rings its own
individual bell, and carries its own individual brand, but
pastures in uncontrolled liberty. A cow is a very good
guide to a lost man, for, if he has patience to wait till evening,
she is sure to feed her way to the sœter to be milked;
but woe to the man who puts his trust in bullocks or in
sheep; they feed at ease, and roam at pleasure, till the frosts
and snows of approaching winter bring them home to the
fold, the stall, and the salting-tub.
Much of the shrubbery appearance of the scene is produced
by the numerous plants of the vaccinium tribe, the
bright glossy leaves of which look like myrtle; and the blue
aconite, and the gentian, and the lily of the valley, flowers
which we seldom meet with in England, absolutely wild,
and the familiar leaves of the raspberry, and black currant,
suggest ideas of home, while the turf on which the
traveller treads, looks as if it had been mown by the gardener
that very morning.
The course, though varied by quite as many ups and
downs as there were ins and outs, was, upon the whole,
continually ascending; and, as the higher regions were
attained, and the facilities of transport diminished, the tall
stately fir began to assert its natural supremacy among the
northern sylva. Still, however, there was enough of birch,
and even of the softer woods, to diversify the foliage, and
preserve the park-like aspect. Heather, of which the Parson
had anticipated making his couch, there was none; but,
on the other hand, there was no furze to irritate the shins,
or brambles to tear the clothes. The latter does grow in
Norway, and is much more prized for its fruit than either
raspberry or strawberry, but the former cannot stand the
winters. Linnæus is said to have sat for hours in delighted
contemplation of an English field of furze in full
bloom, and the plant is generally seen in Swedish conservatories
to this day, or set out in pots as oranges and myrtles
are with us.
The mid-day sun had scattered the clouds of the morning,
as, in truth, it very generally does on a Norway summer
day, and, shining down in patches of brilliant light through
the openings, added to the beauty of the scene, and diminished
in an equal proportion all regrets at leaving the
Torjedahl behind; for it was quite evident that, except
in the Hell Fall, or the pools, little or nothing could
be done on so bright a day, had the baulks been entirely out
of the question.
It was an hour or two past noon when they arrived at the
ridge which divides the valley of the Torjedahl from that of
the Aalfjer—not that ridge is the proper expression, for the
ground had, for some miles, become so nearly level that,
were it not for a little rill, whose line of rushes had been
for some time their guide, they would not have known
whether they were ascending or descending. The country
still preserved its character of beauty, but its features had
gradually become more tame, so that the inequalities which,
in the beginning of their journey had looked like fragments
of mountains, were now rounded and regular, like so many
gigantic mole-hills.
Between two of these, the turf of which was green and
unbroken to the summit, and shorter and more velvety, if
that were possible, than any they had passed over, was the
source of the rill, a black, boggy, rushy, uninviting bit of
ground, but covered with myrica bushes, which diffused
through the still air their peculiarly aromatic and refreshing
scent; in the centre of this was a deep still hole—it
could be called nothing else—it certainly was not a spring
head, for there was not a bubble of springing water; it was
perfectly still and motionless, and looked absolutely black in
its clearness.
It was a welcome halt to all, for the sun was hot and the
way was long. The well-head was a noted haunt of the
dwarfs or Trolls, indeed it was said to penetrate to the centre
of the earth, and to be the passage through which they
emerged to upper air.
This was the reason why, though everything around
was scorching and dropping in the withering heat, and
though the unshaded sun fell full upon the unprotected
surface, the water was at all times very cold, and yet in
the hardest winter no ice ever formed upon it—its cold
was that of the well of Urdar which waters the roots of
Yggdrassil, the tree of life; no frost can bind these waters,
neither can they be polluted with leaves or sticks, for a dwarf
sits continually on guard there, to keep open the passage for
his brethren.
“Well,” said Birger, “I can readily believe that these are
the waters of life, I never met with anything so refreshing,
it beats all the brandy in the universe.”
Jacob put in no protest to this heresy, but expressed a
practical dissent by applying his mouth to a private bottle
and passing it to Tom.
The Captain was proceeding to wash his face and hands in
the well-head, but the men begged him not to pollute it; the
rill below, they said, did not so much signify.
The place had been noted by Birger for a halt, and
right glad were they all to disembarrass themselves of their
respective loads, and to stretch themselves in various
attitudes of repose picturesque enough upon the whole,
under the great white poplars whose restless leaves fluttered
over head though no one could feel the breeze that
stirred them, and shaded the fairy precincts of the haunted
well.
The Parson threw himself on his back upon the turf with
his jacket, waistcoat, and shirt-collar wide open, his arms
extended, and his neckerchief, which he had removed,
spread over his face and bare neck to keep off the musquitoes.
He was not asleep exactly, nor, strictly speaking,
could it be said that he was awake; he was enjoying
that quiet dreamy sort of repose, that a man thoroughly
appreciates after walking for five or six hours on a burning
hot summer’s day. His blood was still galloping
through his veins, and he was listening to the beat of his
own pulses.
“This is very delightful, very,” he said, in a drowsy
drawling voice, speaking rather to himself than to Torkel.
“A very curious sound, one, two, three, it sounds like distant
hammers.”
“Oh, the Thousand!” said Torkel, “where are we
lying?”
The Parson, when he threw himself down on the hill
side, had been a great deal too hot and tired to pay much
attention to his couch, beyond the evident fact that the turf
was very green and inviting, and that it contained no
young juniper or other uncomfortable bedding: roused by
Torkel’s observation, he sat upright, and seeing nothing very
remarkable except a good rood of lilies of the valley at his
feet, the scent of which he had been unconsciously enjoying,
and which did not look at all terrible, stared at him.
“Well,” said he, “what is the matter? where should we be
lying?”
“I do not know,” said Torkel, “that is, I do not know
for certain; but did you not say you heard hammers?
Stay,” he said, looking as if he had resolved to do some
desperate deed—“yes, I will, I am determined,” and he
took a piece of clay that was sticking on his right boot,
and having patted it into the size of a half-crown, put it
on his head and dashed his hat on over it. Then shading
his eyes with his hand, he looked fixedly at the hill, as
if he were trying to look through it. “No,” said he,
“I do not see anything, I hope and trust you are mistaken.”
“What can you be about?” said the Parson impatiently,
“have you found a brandy shop in the forest?”
“I thought it must be the Bjergfolk,” he said, “when
you heard the hammers. I never can hear them myself,
because I was not born on a Saturday, and I thought
perhaps you might have been. It is a very round hill too,
just the sort of place they would choose, and they have
not a great deal of choice nowadays, there are so many bells
in the churches, and the Trolls cannot live within the sound
of bells.”
“No?” said the Parson, “why not?”
“None of the spirits of the middle earth like bells,” said
Torkel, “neither Alfs, nor Nisses, nor Nechs, nor Trolls,
they do not like to think of man’s salvation. Bells call
people to church, and that is where neither Troll nor
Alf may go. They are sometimes very spiteful about it,
too.”
“In the good old times, when it was Norway and Denmark,
and we were not tied to those hogs of Swedes as we
are now” (sinking his voice, out of respect to Birger, but by
no means so much so that Birger could not hear him), “they
were building a church at Knud. They pitched upon a
highish mound near the river, on which to build it, because
they wanted the people to see their new church, little
thinking that the mound was the house of a Troll, and that
on St. John’s eve, it would stand open supported on real
pillars. Well, the Troll, who must have been very young
and green, could not make out what they were going to do
with his hill, and he had no objection whatever to a house
being built upon it, because he reckoned upon a good supply
of gröd and milk from the dairy. He could have seen but
very little of the world above the turf not to know a church
from a house. However, he had no suspicions, and the bells
were put up, and the Pröbst came to consecrate. The poor
Troll could not bear to see it, so he rushed out into the wide
world, and left his goods and his gold and his silver behind
him.
“The next day a peasant going home from the consecration
saw him weeping and wringing his hands beyond the
hearing of the bells, which was as near as he could venture
to come. And the Troll told him that he was obliged to
leave his country, and could never come back, and asked him
to take a letter to his friends.
“I suppose the man’s senses were rather muzzy yet—he
could hardly have had time to get sober so soon after
the ceremony; but somehow or another he did not see that
the speaker was a Troll, but took him for some poor
fellow who had had a misfortune, and had killed some one,
and fancied he was afraid of the Landamptman, particularly
as he had told him not to give the letter to any
one (indeed it had no direction), but to leave it in the
churchyard of the new church, where the owner would
find it.
“One would naturally wish to befriend a poor fellow in
such a strait; so the man took the letter, put it into his
pocket, and turned back.
“He had not gone far before he felt hungry, so he took
out a bit of flad bröd and some dried cod that he had
put into his pocket. They were all wet. He did not know
how that could be; but he took out the letter for fear
it should be spoiled, and then found that there was wet
oozing out from under the seal. He wiped it; but the
more he wiped it, the wetter it was. At last, in rubbing,
he broke the seal, and he was glad enough to run for it
then, for the water came roaring out of the letter like
the Wigelands Foss, and all he could do he could only
just keep before it till it had filled up the valley. And
there it is to this day. I have seen it myself—a large
lake as big as our Forres Vand. The fact was, the Troll
had packed up a lake in the letter, and would have drowned
church, bells, and all, if he had only sealed it up a little more
carefully.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “this beats our penny-post; we
send queer things by that ourselves, but I do not think anybody
has ever yet thought of sending a lake through the
General Post Office.”
“Is there not some story about Hercules cleaning out the
Admiralty, or some such place, in a very similar way?” said
the Captain.
“No,” said the Parson, “I never heard that the Admiralty
has ever been cleaned out at all since the days of Pepys.
If ever it is done, though, it must be in some such wholesale
way as this—I do not know anything else that will do it.”
“The hill-men are not such bad fellows, though,” said
Tom, on whom all this by-play about the Admiralty was
quite lost, British seaman as he was; “and, by the way,
Torkel, I wish you would not call them by their names, you
know they do not like it, and may very well do us a mischief
before we get clear of this fjeld. Many people say that
there is no certainty of their being damned after all—our
schoolmaster thinks they certainly will not, for he says he
cannot find anything about damning Trolls in the Bible,
and I am sure I hope it will not be found necessary to damn
them, for they often do us a good turn. There was a Huusbonde
in the Tellemark who had one of their hills on his
farm that no one had ever made any use of, and he made up
his mind to speak to the Troll about it. So he waited till St.
John’s eve came round and the hill was open, and then he
went, and sure enough he found the Bjergman. He seemed
a good-humoured fellow enough, but he was not so rich as
most of them; he had only a very few copper vessels in his
hill and hardly any silver.
“‘Herr Bjergman,’ said the Huusbonde, ‘you do not seem
to be in a very good case, neither am I, but I think we may
make something of this hill of yours between us—I say
between us, for, you know, the top of the soil belongs to me,
just as the under soil belongs to you.’
“‘Aye, aye!’ said the Bjergman, ‘I should like that very
well. What do you propose?’
“‘Why, I propose to dig it up and sow it, and as we have
both of us a right to the ground, I think in common fairness
we ought both of us to labour at it, and then we will take
the produce year and year about. The first year I will have
all that is above ground and you shall have all below; and
the next year we will change over, and then you shall have
all that is above and I will have all that is below.”
“‘Well,’ said the Troll, greatly pleased, ‘that is fair; I
like dealing with an honest man. When shall we begin?’
“‘Why, next spring, I think; suppose we say after
Walpurgis night,[20] we cannot get at the ground much
before.’
“‘With all my heart,’ said the Bjergman—and so they
did. They worked very well together, but the Bjergman
did twice as much work as his friend; they always do when
they are pleased; and they sowed oats and rye and bear;
and when harvest came the Huusbonde took that which was
above the ground, the grain and the straw which came to
his share, while the Bjergman was very well contented with
his share of roots.
“‘When next Walpurgis night came round they dug up
the ground again; and this time the Bjergman was to have
all that was above ground, so they manured it well, and
sowed turnips and carrots; and by and by, when the harvest
came, the Huusbonde had a fine heap of roots, and the
Bjergman was delighted with his share of greens. There
never came any harm of this that I know, each was pleased
with his bargain, and the Huusbonde came to be the richest
man in the Tellemark. You know the family, Torkel, old
Nils of Bygland, it was his grandfather Lars, to whom it
happened.”
“Well,” said Torkel, “it is quite true, then, I can testify,
I only wish I had a tenth part so many specie-dalers in the
Trondhjem Bank as old Nils has.”
“And our Norfolk squires,” said the Captain, “fancy it
was their sagacity that discovered the four-course system of
agriculture! The Trolls were before them, it seems.”
“The system seems to answer quite as well in Norway as
ever it did in England,” said the Parson, “If all that Tom
tells us about Nils of Bygland be true.”
“There is not a doubt of that,” said Torkel, “all Tellemarken
knows Nils of Bygland, and it is a great pity, when
we were crossing the lake the other day, that we did not stop
at his house; he was never known to let a stranger go to bed
sober yet.”
“I should think he was seldom without company, then,”
said Birger.
“It seems to have answered very well in this particular
case,” said Jacob, “but I do not think you can trust beings
without souls, after all. It is best just to make your offering
to Nyssen, and to the Lady of the Lake, and two or three
others, and then to have nothing more to do with them.”
“You certainly had better keep a sharp look-out,” said
Torkel, “But I think we Norwegians know how to handle
them, and so do our gallant friends the Danes. Did you
ever hear how Kallendborg Church was built?”
The Englishmen, at all events, had not, and Torkel went
on.
“Esberne Snorre was building that church, and his means
began to run short, when a Troll came up to him and offered
to finish it off himself, upon one condition, and that was, that
if Snorre could not find out his name he should forfeit his
heart and his eyes.
“Snorre was very anxious to finish his church, and he consented,
though he was not without misgivings either; and the
Troll set about his work in earnest. Kallendborg Church is
the finest church in the whole country, and the roof of its
nave was to stand on four pillars, for the Troll drew out the
plan himself. It was all finished except half a pillar, and
poor Snorre was in a great fright about his heart and his
eyes, when one evening as he came home late from the
market at Roeskilde he heard a Troll woman singing under
a hill—
“Tie stille, barn min,
Imorgen kommer Fin
Fa’er din,
Og gi’er dig Esberne Snorre’s öine og hjerte at lege mid.”[21]
“Snorre said nothing; but the next morning out he goes
to his church, and there he meets the Troll bringing in the
last half pillar.
“‘Good morning, my friend Fin,’ said he, ‘you have got a
heavy weight to carry.’
“The Troll stopped, looking at him fiercely, gnashed his
teeth, stamped on the ground for rage, flew off with the half
pillar he was carrying; and so Snorre built his church and
kept his heart and eyes.”
“Do not believe a word of that,” said Jacob, “there is not
a word of truth in the story; and as for Esberne Snorre
building a church, everybody knows he was no better than
he should be at any time of his life.[22] He was not the man
to build a church, much less to give his eyes for it.”
“It is true,” said Torkel, “I have been at Kallendborg
Church myself; and have seen the half pillar with my own
eyes. The roof of the nave stands on three pillars and a
half to this day.”
“More shame to the Kallendborgers, who never had religion
enough to finish it,” said Jacob, “nor ever will. Do
you mean to deny that the Devil carried off Esberne Snorre
bodily? I think all the world knows that pretty well.”
“That shows that he thought him worth the trouble of carrying,”
said Torkel, “he would never put himself out about
carrying off you, because he knows you will go to him of
your own accord.”
“Come, come, Torkel,” said the Parson, “do not be personal,
and take your fingers off your knife handle; we cannot
spare our cook yet, and you seem to like Jacob’s gröd yourself,
too, judging by the quantity you eat of it; and now,
Jacob, do not grind your teeth, but let us hear why you do
not believe Torkel’s story, which certainly is very circumstantial,
not to say probable.”
“Because every one knows that it was Lund Cathedral
that was built by the Trolls, at the desire of the blessed
Saint Laurentius,” said Jacob; “it was he who promised his
eyes for it, and had them preserved by a miracle, not by a
trumpery trick. Esberne Snorre, indeed; or any Dane, for
matter of that! A set of infidels! It is only a Swede who
would give his eyes for the church.”
“I should like to know who Scånia belonged to at the
time when Lund Cathedral was built,” said Tom, “I do not
think it was to the Swedes; and I should like to know who
took away its archbishopric when they did get it, and made
the great metropolis of all Scandinavia a trumpery little
bishopric under the see of Upsala?”
“And I should like to know,” said Torkel, “who made
bishops ride upon asses, and drink ‘du’ with the hangman.
The Swedes give their eyes for the church, indeed! That for
the Swedes!” snapping his fingers, and spitting on the
ground.
This was a poser. Jacob was not only in the minority,
but clearly wrong in matter of fact. At the dissolution of
the union of Kalmar, Scånia, though situated in Sweden, was
a Danish province, and its archbishop was, as he always had
been, the metropolitan.
At the present time it is quite true that Scånia is a
Swedish province; but this is a comparatively modern
arrangement. In the days when the cathedral was built,
though geographically a portion of Sweden, it was politically
a province of Denmark; nor was it till its union with the
former state that its capital, Lund, was deprived of its
ecclesiastical primacy. And the treacherous conduct of
Gustavus Vasa towards Canute, Archbishop of Upsala, and
Peter, Bishop of Westeras, and the contumelies to which
they were exposed, previous to their most unjust execution,
are a blot even in that blood-stained reign, which Geijer
himself, with all his ingenuity, cannot vindicate, and which
the Norwegians, from whose protection the bishops were
lured, are continually throwing in the teeth of their more
powerful neighbours.
Birger himself was a little taken aback, not exactly liking
that the weak points in his country’s history should be thus
exposed to strangers.
“Never mind them, Jacob,” said he, forcing a laugh, “they
are only Tellemarkers, and know no better. You and I
shall see them, some of these days, climbing the trees of
Goth’s garden themselves.”[23]
This bit of national slang, which fortunately was lost on
the Norwegians, had the effect of soothing the ire of the
sulky Jacob, who drew near to his countryman with a happy
feeling of partisanship.
“The sooner the better,” said he, bitterly.
CHAPTER XI. THE MOUNTAIN MARCH.
“Onward amid the copse ’gan peep,
A narrow inlet still and deep,
Affording scarce such breadth of brim
As served the wild duck’s brood to swim;
Lost for a space through thickets veering,
But broader when again appearing,—
Tall rocks and tufted knolls their face
Could in the dark-blue mirror trace;
And farther as the hunter strayed,
Still broader sweep its channels made.”
Lady of the Lake.
“How shall it be? Will you look your lay-lines to-day or
to-morrow?” said the Parson, who, though not a little
amused at the tilting between the rival champions, and by
the manner in which Birger had suffered himself to be drawn
into the squabble, began to think it had gone quite far
enough for the future peace and unanimity of the expedition.
“Come, Jacob, shoulder your knapsack, and march
like a sensible Swede.”
“There never was but one sensible Swede,” said Torkel, in
a grumbling aside, “and that was Queen Kerstin, when she
jumped over the boundary, and thanked God that Sweden
could not jump after her.”[24]
Jacob had sense enough not to hear this laudatory remark on
his late sovereign’s discrimination, but, with his ordinary
phlegm, resumed his load and his place in the line of march.
“By the way,” said the Parson, as they resumed their
journey, “what was it, Torkel, that made you scrape the mud
from your right foot and put it on your head in that insane
manner, just now?”
“I can answer that,” said Birger; “you know that the
whole tribe of Alfs, white, brown, and black, and the Trolls,
and in fact the whole class that go under the generic
name of Bjerg-folk, or Hill-men, live under the earth. To
see them, therefore, on ordinary occasions, you must put
yourself—at least, typically—in a similar condition. That
upon which you have trod must cover your head; and you
take it from the right foot rather than the left, partly as
being more lucky, and partly because the left being a mark
of disrespect, would incense the dwarfs, who would be sure
to make you pay for it sooner or later; in fact they are a
dangerous race to meddle with at all, they take offence so
very easily. I believe, however, this is the safest plan, for
they are not aware, unless you betray yourself, that the
veil is removed from your sight. Did you never hear the
story of the Ferryman of Sund?”
The Englishman, of course, had not heard it, neither had
any of the men, for the legend is Danish and local; and
though anything Danish is much better known in Norway
than stories or legends relating to Sweden, it so happened
that it was new to them all, and they closed up to listen to it.
“One evening, between the two lights,[25] a strange man
came to the ferry at Sund and engaged all the boats: no
sooner had the bargain been made, than they began to sink
deeper and deeper into the water, as if some heavy cargo had
been put into them, though the astonished boatmen could see
nothing, and the boats looked quite empty.
“‘Shove off,’ said the stranger, ‘you have got quite load
enough for one trip;’ and so they had, for the gunwales were
not a couple of inches from the water, and the boats pulled
so heavily, that it was as much as the men could do to get
to the Vandsyssel side; if the water had not been wonderfully
calm, they could not have done it at all—but it was calm;
and all under the wake of the moon it looked as if it was
covered with a network of silver filigree, to chain down the
ripples.
“As soon as the boats touched the Vandsyssel shore, they
began rising in the water again, as if their freight had been
taken out of them, and then the stranger sent them back
again; and so it went on throughout the whole night, and
very hard work the ferrymen had, bringing over cargoes of
emptiness.
“Then the day began to break, and the eastern sky to
whiten; and just as the coming sun shot up his seven lances
to show the world that King Day was at hand, the stranger,
who had arranged all this, paid the ferrymen, not counting
the coins, but filling their hats with them with both hands,
as a boy shovels out his nuts.
“‘What had they been bringing over?’ asked one of
them. ‘Cannot you be quiet, and know when you are well
off,’ said the stranger; ‘you need not be afraid of the custom-house
dues; they will have sharp eyes to see anything contraband
in what you have carried over last night; put your
money in your pockets and be thankful—you will not earn
so much in the next three years.’
“But in the mean while one of the ferrymen, a sharper
fellow than his neighbours, jumped on shore, and did just
exactly what Torkel did just now—put a piece of clay from
the sole of his shoe on the crown of his head. His eyes
were opened at once; all the sandhills about Aalberg were
alive with little people, every one of them carrying on his
back gold and silver pots, and jugs, and vessels of every description—the
whole place looked like one gigantic anthill.
“‘O-ho,’ said he, ‘that’s what you are about; well, joy go
with you, we shall not be plagued with you any more on our
side of the water; that’s one good job, anyhow.’
“But it was not a good job for him; it is very possible to
be too sharp for one’s own good. All his gold money turned
to yellow queens,[26] and his silver money to chipped oyster-shells,
and he never got rich, or anything more than a poor
ferryman of Sund, while his companions had their hats full
of ancient Danish gold and silver coins, and bought ships of
their own, and went trading to Holland and the free towns,
and became great men.”
“Upon my word, Torkel,” said the Parson, “you are too
venturesome; it is just as well that there were no Trolls to
be seen just now at the well; but you must not try it again,
or you will never become a great man, or command a ship—not
that this would suit you very well, I suppose.”
“Torkel would undertake the command of the Haabet,
just now, I’ll engage, little as he knows about seamanship, if
he could only get young Svensen out of her,” said Mr Tom,
with a knowing grin; to which innuendo, whatever it might
mean, Torkel playfully replied by kicking out behind at him
with one foot, after the manner of a donkey. He missed
Tom, however, to his and Piersen’s intense mirth; but what
was the precise nature of the joke, there was now no opportunity
of explaining, as the descent had become so steep that
the assistance of the hand was necessary, in order to keep
their footing.
At a few hundred yards from the dwarf’s well, they had
fallen in with a little streamlet, running eastward, on a pretty
rapid descent, even from the first, but which now began to
form a series of diminutive cascades, leaping in so many
spouts from rock to rock, while the ground, over which it
ran, seemed as if it was fast changing from the horizontal to
the perpendicular; indeed, had there not been plenty of rocks
jutting out, and a good crop of twisted and gnarled trunks
and roots, many portions of the journey might have been
accomplished with more speed than pleasure.
The rapidity of the descent soon brought them to the
bottom of a deep hollow valley, far above the level of the
sea, indeed, but low compared with the abrupt heights that
surrounded it. It was one of those singular features in
Norwegian scenery, a valley without an outlet; its bottom
occupied by a deep, black, still lake, whose only drain—if it
had any drain at all except the porous nature of the soil—was
under the surface. As the ground rose rapidly on every
side, it did not answer to cut timber which could never be
carried, and the forest here was left in the wildest state of
desolation. Solid, substantial firs, of ancient growth, were
the predominant tree; but the soil was rich and the valley
sheltered, and there was a plentiful sprinkling of birch and
wych-elm, interspersed with a much rarer tree, the stubborn
old oak himself.
Beneath this mingled canopy was a plentiful undergrowth
of juniper, and enormous ferns. There was a still, calm
desolateness about the whole scene, for many of the trees
were dead, not by accident or disease, but from pure old age,
and stood where they had withered, or reclined against the
younger brethren of the forest, exhibiting their torn and
ragged bark, and stretching forth their bare and leafless
arms: the very rill—their lively and noisy companion
hitherto—seemed to be sobered down, and to partake here
of the general sadness, as it soaked its still way among the
rushes and weeds that encumbered its course.
Where it ran, or rather crept, into the lake, a small marshy
delta was formed of the sand carried down in its course; and
here was moored an old crazy boat, half full of water, with a
couple of old primitive oars; the whole had a bleached and
weather-stained appearance, well in keeping with the general
character of the scene. The boat belonged to a sœter some
three or four miles off, on the western slope of the mountains,
and was used occasionally by the inhabitants, when, at
rare intervals, they amused themselves by setting lay lines
for the char, for which the lake had a local celebrity. The
sœter belonged to Piersen’s brother, and it was he who had
induced Birger to visit the spot.
Having baled out the boat with their mess tins,
they pulled out into the lake, which turned out to be
very much larger than they expected to find it. The spot
where the boat was moored, and which indeed looked like
a small, deep, still tarn, was in fact only a bay, or inlet, and
the whole lake was a body with numerous arms, none of
them very large in themselves, but making a very large
piece of water when taken together.
Of course it had a name; every rock, and stream, and
splash of water in Norway, has a name of one sort or other;
but whatever it might have been, it was unknown to the
fishermen, and this dark pool was entered into their diaries
by the appropriate appellation of the “Lake of the Woods.”
Mountains surrounded it on every side, steep, abrupt,
plunging into the deep dark water, and wooded from base to
summit with a dense black mass of wood wherever tree
could stand on rock. There was not beach or shore of any
kind; the mountain rose from the water itself, so steep as
to be scarcely accessible, and, in many places, not accessible
at all. As for a bird, Avernus itself could not be more
destitute of them. Not a sound was heard, except the splash
of the cumbersome oar, and the creaking of the rowlock, and
that sounded so loud, and so out of place in the universal
stillness, that the rowers tried to dip them quietly, as if
they feared to awaken the desolate echoes.
“Ah,” said Birger, in a whisper, “this is just the place for
the ‘Lady of the Lake;’ I hope she will do us no harm for
trespassing on her territories.”
The men looked uneasy, and a little whispering went on
between Tom and Piersen, who were pulling, they resting
on their oars the while, from which the drops trickled off
and dripped into the silent water. Tom brightened up.
“I do not think she will hurt us,” he said; “she had a very
fine cake from Piersen’s family last Christmas, and she will
not hurt any one while he is with us.”
“What a confounded set of gluttonous sprites you have
in your country,” said the Captain; “mercenary devils they
are too.”
“Hush, hush, don’t abuse them, at all events while you
are on their territories. The fact is, the ‘Lady of the Lake’
is the easiest propitiated of all the sprites: she is an epicure,
too, and not a glutton; she likes her cake good, but she does
not care how small it is. On Christmas Eve you pick a very
small hole in the ice, and put a cake by the side of it, only
just big enough to go through it; and if you watch, which
is not a safe thing to do if you have any sins unconfessed,[27]
you may see, not the lady herself, for she is never seen, but
her small white hand and arm, as she takes the offering and
draws it down through the hole in the ice. Those see her
best who are born on the eves of the holiest festivals.”
“That is all nonsense,” said Jacob, “I never could see
her at all, often as I have looked, and I was born on Easter
Eve.”
“Why you precious rascal,” said the Captain, “how could
you expect it? When were your sins shriven, I should like
to know?”
The men were not by any means displeased at Jacob’s rebuff,
who seemed much more disconcerted by it than the occasion
at all required; when Birger took up the conversation.
“There is danger in that,” said he, “not that you should miss
seeing the Lady, but that you should suffer for your rashness.
The fact is,” he continued, turning to his friends, “the
Lady of the Lake is the impersonation of the sudden squalls
which fall unexpectedly on open spaces of any kind in
mountainous countries, and her small white hand and arm
are the dangerous little white breakers that are stirred up
by the gusts, which, though diminutive when compared with
the mighty rollers of the ocean, very often do draw men
down, just as the hand draws Torkel’s cake. There is a
similar spirit for the rivers, called the Black Horse, and
another for the sea. This latter is called King Tolf, and is
represented as driving furiously across the Sound, his chariot
drawn by water-horses, and cutting right through any ship
or boat that may lie in his path. But they all signify the
same thing, in different situations to which their several
attributes are very well adapted.”
“And that thing is?”
“Death, by drowning.”
“Here are the corks,” broke in Piersen in very indifferent
English; “we shall have gjep for supper to-day, I see the
floats bobbing.”
The corks which he had pointed out were, in reality, a
string of birch-bark floats, which on being examined, were
found attached to lines anchored in the very deepest spot
of the whole lake; for the gjep, or great lake char, unlike
any of its congeners, and indeed unlike any fresh-water
fish whatever, except the common char, the eel, and the
fictitious mal,[28] is never found but in the deepest waters.
Birger, who was the hero of this fishing, caught the nearest
float in the crook of his gaff, and began hauling in—evidently
there was something, for at first the line twitched and
twitched and was nearly jerked out of his hand; but as he
hauled on (and in good truth the line seemed as long as if
some one, as Paddy says, had cut off the other end of it),
it came lighter and lighter, and before he had got it in, a
large ugly fish, three or four pounds weight, with an enormous
protuberant belly, lay helpless on the surface.
“That’s the fellow,” said Piersen, pouncing on him,—but
the fish made little effort to get away; it was almost dead
before he got hold of it. The gjep, though classed as a char
by the learned, is as little like the bright crimson char of
our own lakes or of the mountain lakes of Norway as can well
be imagined; never met with except in water of immense
depth, never found out of his hole, never caught except with
a still and (so the Swedes assert) a stinking bait, he bears
the colours and character of his local habitation, a sober dark
olive brown back, a dark grey side shot with purple, which
turns black when the fish is dead; no red spots or very
minute ones, no splashes of red or anything red about it,
except one bright line along the edge of the fins. The most
remarkable point about it, its enormous belly, from which it
derives its name, Salvelinus ventricosus, is really no distinguishing
mark at all, except of its habitat. The fact is,
drawn suddenly and against its will from the depths of the
lake, its air-bladder swells so enormously as to kill the fish,
and give it that peculiarly inelegant appearance.
Inelegant as it looks, and disagreeable as it is to catch, it
is by far the best eating of any Swedish fish, and, from its
rarity, and from the difficulty of catching it, bears, when
it is to be had at all, which is very seldom, by far the
highest price of any fish in the market. In fact, to eat
it at all in perfection, a man must go after it; it will
never answer to catch it for amusement; but the men may
easily be set to lay lines for it while other sports are going
forward.
Four or five of these highly prized fish were hauled in one
after another by Birger, who looked as proud of his exploit
as if he had landed a schoolmaster.[29] When the lines had
been all coiled up and deposited in the boat, Birger proposed
visiting some rushes that he remembered, in a hope
of meeting with wild fowl; a hope in which he was disappointed,
not at all to the surprise of his brother fishermen,
for the whole lake looked so black and gloomy
that no duck of ordinary taste would think of pitching
there; it was, however, an interesting voyage among
the sad and silent intricacies of the lake; but it so happened,
that in returning they took a turn short of their
point and wandered into another deep and narrow inlet,
very like that from which they had started, but still not the
same.
So like was one spot to another that they had pulled some
considerable distance before the mistake was found out, and
when it was, so much time had been lost that they were
unwilling to pull back.
“Piú noja un miglio in dietro che dieci in avanti,”
said the Captain; “let us pull on and see what luck will
send us.”
Piersen, on being consulted, as best acquainted with the
country, did not seem to know a great deal about it, but
imagined that if once on shore he could cut into the
right track; and the fishermen having taken a look at
their compasses, and the sun, and the wind, what little there
was of it, decided that at all events the adventure should
be tried.
Hardly had this conclusion been arrived at, when the boat
grounded on a bed of spongy rushes, so like that from which
they had embarked, that it was with difficulty they could
persuade themselves that it was not the very same—there
was the same little soaking rill, the same mossy, soppy turf,
and when they had gone on a little further, there was the
same leaping, sparkling brooklet, bounding from rock to rock,
just like that by which they had descended.
A good stiff pull it took them to reach the top, and then
it was evident enough that the spot they had attained was
not the same as that from which they had descended. There
was no hill on the other side, properly so called, but a wide
smooth plain of light sand, shelving, certainly, towards the
east, but shelving so gradually, that the declivity was scarcely
perceptible; it was completely overshadowed by large massive
well-grown pines, not growing together closely but in
patches (as is generally the case both in Norway and Sweden),
so as to leave grassy glades and featherly copse-wood between
the groups, but regularly and evenly, as if they had all
been planted at measured distances. The branches formed
a complete canopy over head, shutting out both air and sunshine,
and effectually destroying everything like verdure
beneath: the tall straight monotonous trunks with a purplish
crimson tint on their bark, effectually walled in the
view on every side, and the whole ground was carpeted with
a slippery covering of dead pine-leaves.
“I hope this will not last long,” said the Captain, “the
place is so dark and the air so close and stifling, that it seems
like walking through turpentine vaults. However, our road
lies this way, that is certain,” putting his compass on the
ground so that it could traverse easily, “and at all events we
must come to a water-course sooner or later.”
But they did not come to a water-course; whether there
were none, the sand being sufficiently permeable to sop up
the rain, or whether they were travelling on the rise between
two parallel brooks, did not appear; but mile after mile was
skated and slid over with considerable fatigue and exertion,
and the same scene lay before them, and around them, and
above them. Tall clear branchless stems, with long vistas
between them opening and closing as they went on, vistas
which led to nothing and terminated in nothing but the
same bare, branchless, dead-looking poles. Their compasses
and a slight declivity told them that they were not travelling
in a circle, and their reason enlightened them as to the fact
that everything except a circle must have an end; but after
three hours’ very hard work and some dozen of tumbles a
piece, that end seemed as far off as ever.
The only variety was a dead tree, and the only apparent
difference between the living and the dead was, that in this
case the straight perpendicular lines were crossed by lines as
straight, which were diagonal; for the dead trees for the
most part reclined against their living neighbours, very
much to the detriment of the latter. As for a bird, it did
not seem as if birds could live there; nor could they in the
close space beneath that dark-green canopy; but every now
and then there was a tantalizing whirr of wings, as a black-cock
threw himself out from the topmost branches, and, far
above their heads, skimmed along in that bright sunshine
which could not penetrate to them. This is a favourite
haunt of the black-cock, for the pine-tops and their young
buds are its most welcome food, and often render its flesh
absolutely uneatable from the strong turpentiny flavour
they impart to it.
At last, and after they had well-nigh begun to despair, the
trees began to be thinner. Here and there a patch of sky
relieved the monotonous black, here and there a sunbeam
would struggle down; then a little grass, weak and pale,
would cast a shade of sickly green over the ashy brown of
the dead fir leaves, and afford a somewhat steadier footing;
a patch of birch was hailed with the joy with which one
meets a welcome friend; cattle paths, deceptive as they are,
afforded at least a token of civilization: and now the whort
and the cranberry began to show themselves, and the hospitable
juniper too, the remembrancer of bright crackling
fires and aromatic floors, and—
“Oh, positively we must have a halt now, for the difficulties
are over,” said Birger, and, though he had plenty of
tobacco in his havresac, out of sheer sentiment he stuffed his
pipe with the dead strippy bark of that useful shrub, which
is generally its mountain substitute.
A few minutes were sufficient for their rest; breathing the
fresh air again was in itself a luxury, and treading the firm
elastic turf a refreshment. As they went on, the landscape
began to resume its park-like character, glades to open, trees
to feather down, gentians to embroider the green with their
blue flower work, and lilies of the valley to perfume the air.
They were as much lost as ever, but the country looked so
like the beautiful banks of the Torjedahl, that they could
not but think themselves at home.
“This will do,” said Torkel, at last, who apparently had
recognised some well-known landmark, “we shall soon find
a night’s lodging now, and a kind welcome into the bargain.”
The track into which he had struck, did not at first
appear more inviting than any of the numerous cattle-paths
which they hitherto passed on their way; but Torkel followed
it with a confidence which, as it turned out, was not
misplaced; for it soon widened out into a broad green glade,
at the further end of which stood a sœter of no mean pretensions.
The portions of cultivated and inhabited land in Norway
are almost always mere strips, the immediate banks of rivers
or of lakes—most of them are actually bounded by the
forest; and in no case is the wild unenclosed country at any
great distance from them. Every farm, therefore, has, as a
necessary portion of its establishment, its sœter, or mountain
pasture, to which every head of cattle is driven as soon as
the grass has sprung, in order to allow the meadows of the
lower farms to be laid up for hay. At these it is often a very
difficult thing to get a mess of milk in the summer, for
almost all the cheese and butter of the kingdom is made at
the sœters. They are generally abundantly stocked with
dairy furniture, but, as they are abandoned in the winter,
they seldom exhibit any great amount of luxury. They
consist generally of rude log-huts, of sufficient solidity, no
doubt, for these logs are whole trunks of pines roughly
squared and laid upon one another, morticed firmly at the
corners, but of very little comfort indeed, notwithstanding.
They contain generally a single room, a chimneyless fire-place,
and a mud floor, in most places sufficiently dirty, with a few
sheds and pens surrounding the main hut.
The present sœter, however, was one of far greater pretensions,
it was built of sawn timber, and boasted of an upper
floor, implying, of necessity, a separation between human
beings who could climb a ladder, and cows and pigs who
could not. This projected some two or three feet on every
side beyond the lower storey, forming at once a shade and a
shelter for the cattle, according as the weather required one
or the other, and, in its turn, was crowned with a low-pitched
shingled roof, whose eaves had another projection
of two or three feet, so that, seen end on end, it had the appearance
of a gigantic mushroom standing on its stalk. The
dairymen had been men of taste as well as of leisure, for the
barge-boards which protected its gables were ingeniously
carved and painted with texts from Scripture, and the heavy
corners of the projecting upper storey terminated in pendants
no less grotesque than elaborate. There was one window in
each gable and two in the side, the sills of which had been
planed and painted with some date, text, or motto, like the
barge-boards.
Round these sœters there are generally some patches of
enclosed ground where hay is made, or where the more tender
of the herds or flocks are protected, but here there seemed
to be a complete farm; full forty acres had been redeemed
from the forest, and enclosed by the peculiar fence of the
country; which, except that it is straight, is in its general
appearance not unlike the snake fences of America. It is
formed by planting posts in the ground by pairs at small
distances between pair and pair, and then heaping a quantity
of loose planks and stems, and any other refuse timber
which comes to hand, between them, the tops being kept
firm by a ligature of birch-bark or some such material.
These fences, when they begin to rot, which they do
very soon, are the harbour of all sorts of small vermin, and
are, in fact, the great eye-sores of Swedish scenery.
In the present instance, this was pre-eminently the case;
not only the fences, but everything else, was in a terrible
state of disrepair—in many places the posts were gone, in
others the birch ropes had rotted through, and the miscellaneous
timber which had formed the fence was lying about
entwined with a spiry growth of creepers and brambles, a
mass of rottenness. The house itself was in a more promising
state; it was evident that it had been partially repaired
and put in order, and that very recently, for many of
the timbers showed by their white gashes, the recent marks
of the axe, and the axe which had made them was lying
across the door sill.
Torkel lifted the latch—that was easy, for there was no
bolt or lock to prevent him—but the place was evidently
uninhabited—he looked on Tom with a face of disappointment.
“Faith!” said he, “this is too bad. Torgenson told me
that the Soberud party were to drive their cattle to the fjeld
on Thursday last, and the weather has been as fine as fine
can be. Well! there is no trusting people.”
“There is no trusting Torgenson’s daughter, at all events,”
said Tom, “for I suspect it was from her that you had the
information; Lota is much too pretty to be trusted further
than you can see her; and I have no doubt she made some
excuse herself for not coming last Thursday. It was natural
enough too; of course she would not like to come to the
sœter before young Svensen sailed.”
“The Thousand take young Svensen, and you too!” said
Torkel, turning round as sharply as if Tom had bitten him
in earnest, but catching a grin upon the latter’s countenance
which he had not time to dismiss, looked very much as if he
meditated making him pay for his ill-timed joke, when a
loud, clear voice was heard in the glade below, making
the leafy arches of the old forest ring with the ballad of
master Olaf—
“Master Olaf rode forth ere the dawn of day,
And came where the elf folk were dancing away,
The dances so merry,
So merry in the green-wood.”
Torkel stopped to listen, and Tom laughed.
“The elf father put forth his white hand, and quoth he,
Master Olaf stand forth, dance a measure with me,
The dances so merry,
So merry in the green-wood.”
“Here they come at last,” said Tom; “pretty Lota is not
half so false as you thought her, Torkel. The Haabet has
sailed, I suppose,” added he, in a stage whisper. Torkel,
however was much too happy to pay the smallest attention
to his malicious insinuations, but took up the song for himself.
Whether Lota put any particular meaning on the
words of it, we will not take upon ourselves to say—
“And neither I will, and neither I may,
For to-morrow it is my own wedding-day,”
shouted he, at the full pitch of his voice, while the whole
party took up the chorus—
“The dances so merry,
So merry in the green-wood.”
By this time the approaching party had emerged from the
forest, and came along the glade in an irregular procession,
putting one in mind of the Nemorins and Estelles of ancient
pastorals, and all the more so from their picturesque costumes.
The men wore certainly absurdly short round jackets, but
they had rows of silver buttons on them, and brown short
trousers worked with red tape, very high in the waistband,
to match the jacket, but coming down no further than the
calf of the leg, which was ornamented with bright blue stockings,
with crimson clocks.
The women had all of them red kerchiefs on their heads,
the ends of which hung down their backs, and red or yellow
bodices with great silver brooches on them, and blue petticoats
trimmed with red or yellow. Both sexes adorn themselves
with all the silver they can collect; the men’s shirt
buttons are sometimes as big as a walnut, and on gala days
they will wear three or four of them strung one under another.
All the party were loaded with the utensils necessary for
following their occupations in the fjeld; the women were
carrying the pails, while the men’s loads, which consisted of
all sorts of heterogeneous articles, were topped with the great
iron kettles in which they simmer their milk, after the
Devonshire fashion, in order to collect the whole of the cream.
There were little carts, too, that is to say, baskets
placed upon two wheels and an axle, and drawn by little
cream-coloured ponies; stout, stubby little beasts, very
high crested, and with black manes and tails—the former
hogged, the latter peculiarly full and flowing. A Swede
generally values his horse according to the quantity of hair
on his tail. These were loaded—it did not take much to
load them—with meal for the summer’s gröd, and strings of
flad bröd, a few sheep skins, particularly dirty, though in
very close proximity to the provisions,—and now and then
the black kettle, which its owner was too lazy to carry.
Then came the goats and sheep, and the little cows following
like dogs, now and then stopping to take a bite, when the
turf looked particularly sweet and tempting—little fairy cows
were they, much smaller than our Alderneys, finer in the
bone, and more active on their legs; they looked as if they
had a cross of the deer in them. They were all of one
colour—probably that of the original wild cattle—a sort of
dirty cream colour, approaching to dun, and almost black on
the legs and muzzle.
The party was a combined one, and was bound eventually
to several other sœters besides this, but they had agreed to
make their first night’s halt in Torgenson’s pasture, and beside
the regular herdsmen and dairymaids, as many supernumeraries
as can possibly find excuse for going, accompany
the first setting out of the expedition, which is always looked
upon in the light of a holiday and a merry-making.
And a holiday and a merry-making it seemed to be,
judging by the shouts, and screams, and laughter, and
rude love-making that was going on among the gentle
shepherds and shepherdesses of the north; but, for all that,
there was a good deal of real work too. Sœter-life may be
a life of pleasure, but it certainly is anything but a life of ease.
The Soberud division, bestial as well as human, evidently
seemed to consider themselves quite at home; and the cows
belonging to it, which looked as if they recognised the old localities,
roamed at liberty; but the parties bound to the more
distant mountains were occupied in hobbling, and tethering,
and knee-haltering their respective charges, mindful of their
morrow’s march and of the difficulty of collecting cattle
and even sheep, which, except that they keep together, are
just as bad, from among the intricacies of a strange forest.
Some were forming temporary pounds, by effecting rude
repairs in the dilapidated fences, chopping and hewing, for
that purpose, great limbs of trees and trees themselves,
with as little concern as, in England, men might cut thistles.
Streams of blue smoke began now to steal up through the
trees, and fires began to glimmer in the evening twilight,
while the girls brought in pail after pail of fresh milk, and
swung their kettles, gipsy fashion, and, opening their
packages, measured out, with careful and parsimonious foresight,
the rye-meal that was to thicken it into gröd. Meal
is precious in the mountains, though milk is not.
Whether the Haabet had sailed, or what had become of
poor Svensen, did not transpire; but certain it was that the
damsels from Soberud, after looking in vain for their mistress,
were obliged, that evening, to act on their own
discretion—and equally certain it was that the Parson,
whose knife had been inconsiderately lent to Torkel on the
preceding day, was obliged to eat his broiled gjep with two
sticks, the knife and the fortunate individual in whose
pocket it was, being, for the time, invisible.
CHAPTER XII. THE HOMESTEAD.
“’Tis a homestead that scarce has an equal,
Plenteous in wood and corn-fields, with rich grassy meadow and moorland—
This won my father, long since, in wedding the farmer’s fair daughter;
Here, at length he grew old, like a summer’s eve calmly declining,
Here he spent the best years of his life, and dwelt like a king, amid plenty.
Servants he had by the score—men servants to plough with the oxen,
And maids in the house besides, and children, the joy of their mother—
Thus sowing and reaping, in comfort, from season to season, abode he,
Envied by all around—but having the good will of all men.”—
The Elk Hunters—Runeberg.
Sunrise found the whole bivouac in a stir; the habits of
the Norwegian are always early—at least in the summer
time—and many of the parties had to travel to the yet
distant sœters and wilder uplands: cows are not very
fast travellers, and the load which a dairyman carries on
his back when he is bound to those fjelds, which are inaccessible
to carts, is by no means a light one: ponies
sometimes carry the heavier loads, but this is not often, as
they are useless in the fjeld life, and in the summer are
generally wanted for posting, as well as for agricultural purposes;
the loads are generally carried by the men—sometimes
by the women even,—and the milk-kettle which crowns
the pack is alone a weight which few would like to carry
far, even on level ground.
The white smoke was already curling about the trees in
long thin columns, and the girls were already bringing in
their pails of new milk, a very fair proportion of which
would be consumed with the morning’s gröd, which was
already bubbling in the kettles.
Gröd, in high life, means all sorts of eatables that are semi-liquid;
but in the fjeld it is invariably made thus: the
water is heated in the great milk-kettle to a galloping boil,
and its temperature is raised to a still higher point by the
addition of salt; meal, generally rye-meal, is then thinly
sprinkled into it, the great art being to separate the particles,
so as to prevent them from forming lumps. As soon as the
contents of the kettle are thick enough for the bubbles to
make little pops, the gröd is taken off the fire and served up
with milk. When that milk is fresh, no one need desire a
better breakfast; but when, as is generally the case, they
mix it with milk that has been purposely kept till it is
curdled over with incipient corruption, in which state they
prefer it, it is as disgusting a mess as ever attained the
dignity of a popular dish.
In the present instance they were obliged to put up with
fresh milk, no other being procurable; and the fishermen,
having grilled the remains of their gjep (an especial delicacy),
and added to it some of the contents of their havresacs, sent
a deputation, headed by Birger, to invite Miss Lota and her
hand-maidens to partake of their breakfast. This was a
proceeding which Torkel regarded with very questionable
pleasure. He was flattered, no doubt, at the attentions paid
to his lady-love by the fishermen, who could not speak
Norske; but, at the same time, was rather jealous of those of
Birger, who could.
Lota, however, was in no way disconcerted; she came
smiling and blushing, indeed, but without any sort of affectation
or bashfulness, and listened graciously, and without
laughing, to the blundering compliments paid her by the
Englishmen; and without any great amount of coquetry, considering
the rarity of guardsmen in the Tellemark, to the
tender elegance of the Swede. Torkel had very good reason
to be proud of her, and none at all to be jealous, particularly
as the knapsacks were already packed up for the march.
The fishermen were in no particular hurry: the track to
Soberud was perfectly known; even if the droves of cows and
the flocks of sheep that had come up it the day before had
not already marked it very sufficiently. The way was not
long either, for it was but a day’s journey to the herds;
the breaking up of the bivouac was very picturesque; Lota
was very pretty, and Birger found her very entertaining.
It is no wonder that they lingered.
However, the shadows of the trees began to shorten.
Party after party came up with their merry “farvels;” the
songs and the laughter, and the tinkling of the bells, sounded
fainter and fainter from under the arches of the forest; and,
last of all, the fishermen, reluctantly shouldering their knapsacks,
took their journey down the glade; with the exception
of Torkel, who, having something to adjust about his straps,
was not exactly ready, and in fact was not seen for a couple
of hours afterwards. He did not join them, indeed, till the
party had made their first halt near the banks of a mountain
lake.
The halt was called somewhat sooner than usual, for the
Captain, who, with his gun in his hand and old Grog at his
heels, was a little in advance, and had first caught sight of
the lake, had caught sight also of an object floating quietly
along in the middle of it, which his practised eye at once
assured him was that very rare and beautiful bird, the northern
diver.
He threw himself flat on the ground, an action in which
he was implicitly imitated by the rest of the party, who,
though they had not seen the bird, were quite aware that
there was some good reason for the caution.
In truth, there are few birds more difficult to kill than the
northern diver; to the greatest watchfulness he unites the
most wonderful quickness of eye and motion, and, large as
he is, he is fully able to duck the flash, as it is called,—that is
to say, to dive between the time of seeing the flash and feeling
the shot.
They retired a hundred yards or so and smoked the pipe
of council, thus giving Torkel the opportunity of coming up
with them.
Torkel was well acquainted with the ground, as was
natural, not only because the lake was celebrated for ducks
and the country round it for tjäder, but also because it happened
to lie on the mountain track between his own home
and Torgenson’s farm, a road which business (he did not
state of what nature) required him to travel very often.
His plan was founded on a well-known characteristic in
the nature of diving birds: during their dive they cannot
breathe, and therefore on rising to the surface for a moment
or so, they cannot make any immediate effort either to dive
or to fly. He proposed, therefore, that the Captain should
conceal himself among the understuff, and that the rest,
taking different positions about the lake, which was not
large, should break twigs and slightly alarm the bird, who
would naturally edge away toward the point occupied by the
Captain, and the object being a valuable prize, an hour or so
was not grudged, as there was plenty of time to spare. The
party having first reconnoitred their ground, marked the
position to be occupied by the Captain on the lee side of the
lake, and ascertained that the bird was still resting on the
water, separated, taking a wide circuit, lest they should alarm
it prematurely.
The Captain, with his gun ready cocked, lay at full length
on the top of a little ledge of rock about six feet high, which
sloped away from the water, forming a sort of miniature cliff.
It afforded very little cover apparently—there was nothing
between it and the water but a light fringe of cranberry
bushes—but the cover was perfect to a man in a recumbent
position, and the Captain being dressed entirely, cap and all,
in Lowland plaid, the most invisible colour in the world,
looked, even if he had been seen, like a piece of the rock on
which he lay. This place had been selected with forethought,
for the bird is wonderfully suspicious, and will not approach
any strong cover at all.
For half an hour after the Captain had wormed himself to
the edge of the rock, the bird lay as still as if it had been
asleep, which it certainly was not; at the end of that time
there was a quick turn of its neck, and its eye was evidently
glancing round the margin, but the body remained as quiet
and motionless as before; there was not a ripple on the
water, and it was only by observing the diminishing distance
between it and a lily leaf that happened to be lying on the
surface, that even the practised eye of the Captain could tell
that it was in motion, and was nearing him imperceptibly.
There had been no sound, nor had the bird caught sight of
anything; but the Parson had come between it and the wind,
and the light air, that was not sufficient even to move the
surface, had carried down the scent.
The Parson had caught sight of the lily, as well as the
Captain, and, seeing the bird in motion, had halted, leaving
it to the scent alone to effect his purpose. But in a few
minutes it was evident that the bird had become stationary,
having either drifted out of the stream of scent, or, possibly,
having imagined that it was now far enough from the suspected
shore.
A slight snapping of dry wood just broke the stillness;
again that sharp, anxious glance, and the imperceptible
motion, was renewed; another and another snap, and now
the water seemed to rise against the bird’s breast, and a slight
wake to be left behind him,—but it was still that same
gliding motion, as if it were slipping through the water: at
last, when the distance was sufficiently great to secure against
flying, a cap was raised, and responded to by two or three hats
at different places; the bird had disappeared, while the calm,
quiet water showed no trace of anything having broken its
surface. Half-a-dozen pair of eyes were anxiously on the
look-out, and long and long was it before the smallest sign
rewarded their vigilance. At last, and many hundred yards
from the point at which they had lost sight of it, a black spot
was seen floating on the water, as quietly and unconcernedly
as if it had never been disturbed. It was, however, a good
way to the right of the line in which they were endeavouring
to drive it; the hats had disappeared, and for ten minutes
the lake was as quiet as if the eye of man had never rested
upon it. Then came again the glance, the move, the dive,—then
an anxious moment of watchfulness,—then a white puff
of smoke and a stream of hopping shot playing ducks and
drakes across the water,—then the sharp, ringing report,
caught up and repeated by echo after echo,—and there lay
the bird, faintly stirring the surface, in the last struggles of
death,—and there was gallant old Grog, plunging into the lake,
and making the water foam before him in his eagerness.
Four or five ducks, which had hitherto been basking unseen
among the stones, sprang into air; and a flight of teal
appeared suddenly whistling over the water, and, turning
closely and together as they came unawares within a dozen
yards of the Parson, received his right and left shots among
them, and, with the loss of three or four of their company,
scattered hither and thither among the trees.
“Hurrah, Grog!—bring him along, boy! bring him along!”
shouted the Captain; and on every side, instead of the quiet,
gliding, creeping figures, just peering about the understuff,
were seen forms bounding and tearing through the cover.
The prize was one which the Captain, a taxidermist and
a veteran collector, had long desired to possess, and great was
the care with which it was secured on the top of Jacob’s
knapsack; it being entrusted to him, as the most phlegmatic
of the party and the least likely to be led away by any excitement
of sport,—for at last they had arrived into something
like shooting country: the character of the ground was
more open and free from timber than anything they had
seen, and the understuff of whort and cranberry was proportionally
thicker and more luxuriant; it was ground which
a dog could quarter without any very great amount of difficulty,
particularly as it was absolutely free from brambles,
and that furze was unknown in those latitudes anywhere
outside of a greenhouse.
It was more for the amusement of the thing, and for the
sake of ascertaining the resources of the country, that the
party extended themselves into a line and beat their way
onwards, for it was too early in the year for shooting
anything but wild ducks. Game laws in Norway exist,
certainly, but are utterly disregarded; still the broods of
grouse were, as yet, too young to take care of themselves,
and it would have been sheer murdering the innocents to
injure the grey hens, which, into the bargain, are at this time
not fit for eating. This proceeding seemed very absurd to
Torkel and to Tom, for a Norwegian has no idea of preserving
the game—in reality, he can eat and relish much that most
civilized people cannot; but, besides that, he is a selfish
animal, and the poor lean bird that he secures for himself in
spring, is better than the fine, fat, plump, autumnal one that
he has left for his neighbour.
Hen after hen got up and tumbled away before the dogs,
who were too well broke to disturb her, had they even been
deceived by her antics, but no shot was fired to convert her
pretence into reality. Now and then, it must be confessed,
when an old, selfish, solitary cock, as black as a hat, and as
glossy as a whole morning’s dressing could make him,
whirred off as if he cared for no one but himself and had
not a wife or family in the world, he paid the penalty of his
selfishness, and fell fluttering on the cranberries—deservedly,
perhaps; at all events, he left no one behind him to lament
his fate, for the black-cock is a roving bird, and never pairs:
but no exclamations of Torkel’s could induce the English
sportsmen to sever the loves of the smaller description of
grouse, and Birger, though a Swede—for very shame—was
obliged to imitate their forbearance. But, every now and
then, a blue Alpine hare was knocked over without mercy;
once an unlucky badger came to an untimely end, and, upon
the whole, the bags were getting quite as heavy as the men
approved of, when a light, graceful, elegant roe, for once in
its life was caught napping, though there had been noise
enough, not only from shots, but from talking also, along the
whole line, to have awakened a far less watchful animal. It
sprang from a thicker piece of covering than common, which
probably had been the means of deluding it into staying, in
the false hope that it could possibly escape the keen scent of
old Grog, whose flourishing tail said as plainly as tail could
speak (and dogs’ tails are very eloquent), “look out, boys; I
have got something here for you, this time, that is worth
having.”
Jacob was pretty well strung with hares, and remonstrated
against the additional load, which was finally slung
around Torkel’s body like a shoulder-belt, and he was dismissed
at once with directions to follow the path to Soberud, a
place where he was well known, and to prepare, as well as
he could, for the reception of the party, and their provisioning.
Torkel undertook the mission readily enough, and went
off gaily under a load of game that would have been quite
enough for a pony, casting back a knowing look to Tom,
who seemed perfectly to understand him, implying that he
had some project in his head by which he intended to astonish
the strangers.
The day wore on in this pleasant exercise—perhaps the halt
for Middagsmad might have been a long one, and the pipe
after luxurious; in fact, there is not so luxurious a couch in
this sublunary world as a heap of heather, and no sensation
so luxuriously happy as that of basking, half-tired, in the
warm, pleasant sunshine, after a well-spent morning of honest
exercise, with our gun beside us, and our dogs half sleeping,
like ourselves, around us; but the sun was not a very great
way from the horizon when the party gained the first view
of the village which was to be their resting-place for the
night.
The fjeld was not high, for it had been sloping away
gradually to the eastward ever since they left the high
mountains which surround the Lake of the Woods, but, as
it almost always does, it terminated abruptly in a sort of
cliff, portions of which were precipitous, and the rest
extremely steep. The path which Torkel had taken, following
the course of a largish brook, had found an easy
access to the valley, practicable even for the carts of the
country; but at the point at which they had struck the
valley, there was nothing for it but a stiff scramble down
the face of the hill, a proceeding which their loads rendered
anything but pleasant and easy. It was a beautiful scene
that lay before them, and perfectly different from anything
they had seen before, though they had been passing through
scenery of wood and lake ever since they left the Torjedahl.
In the present instance the broad, still lake, broad as it
was, filled up but half the amphitheatre of the wooded
mountains. There was an ample margin of cultivated land
round it, fields rich with the promise of autumn, and green
quiet meadows; here and there a wooded spur shot out
from the frame of highlands, forming sometimes a cape or
promontory in the water, while, in return, narrow secluded
valleys would wind back into the recesses of the mountains,
each with its own little brook and its own secluded pastures.
Besides the village, there were several detached
farmsteadings and scattered cottages, all looking trim and
tidy and well to do in the world, and through the middle of
them ran a well-kept but very winding road, with a broad
margin of turf on each side. The fences might have been a
dissight a little nearer, for they were the post and slab fence
so common in the north, but, at the distance, they looked
like park paling; and the swing poles for opening the
gates across the road, formed a picturesque feature in the
landscape.
Close by the lake-side was the church, a grey and weather-stained
building, which looked like one solid mass of timber,
supporting on its steeply-pitched and shingled roof, three
round towers of different heights, each surmounted with its
cross. Dominating over the whole sat a huge golden cock,
which, newly gilded, glowed in the light of the setting sun
as if it were a supplementary sun itself. The houses of the
village were a good deal scattered, but, with the exception
of the Præstgaard, or parsonage, did not hold out any very
magnificent hopes of accommodation for the night.
This, however, was of little importance to men whose last
night’s abode had been the shelter of the thickest tree; and
they proceeded, with very contented minds, to descend the
steep hill-side, in order to reach the path they ought to have
taken, which they now discovered, far below them, winding
along the edge of the cultivated ground.
“And now,” said the Captain, as they reached it and
rallied their forces, which had been a good deal scattered
during the sharp descent, “where to bestow ourselves for
the night? I should like to sleep in a bed, if it were only
for the novelty of the thing; and here, in good time, comes
Torkel, who looks as if he had made himself pretty well at
home already.”
Torkel, considerably smartened up—however he had contrived
it—and sporting a clean white shirt-front, like a
pouter pigeon, with his silver shirt buttons newly polished,
came up the church path in close conversation with a
respectable, fatherly, well-to-do-in-the-world sort of farmer,
or huusbonde as he was called, in whom, as he introduced
him by the name of Torgensen, the fishermen recognized the
father of the pretty hostess of the sœter. Not one word
of English could the good-man speak, though he looked as
like an honest rough-handed English farmer as one man
could look to another; but he wrung their hands, as if, like
Holger, he meant to test their manhood by their powers of
endurance, and smiled, and looked pleasant, which Torkel
interpreted to mean that he heartily desired to see the
whole party under his hospitable roof that night, and would
be right glad to make them all drunk in honour of his roof-tree.
And poor Torkel looked so excessively happy, that
it was easy to see that, in spite of the Haabet and her
skipper, he had not only sped in his wooing at the sœter,
but had contrived to ingratiate himself with the elders of
the household.
A grand place was that homestead, which, hidden by a
projecting point, and occupying a secluded valley of its own,
had hitherto escaped their observation,—a good, snug, wealthy
farm it really was, even as compared to others in the country;
but in Norway, so much cover is always wanted; and building—at
least timber building—is so cheap, that moderate-sized
farm-houses, with their appurtenances, are little villages;
and the house itself looks always larger than it is, as
an habitation, because the whole upper storey, frequently
called the rigging loft, is invariably used as a store-room for
their provisions, and hides, and wool, and flax, and apples,
and sometimes corn, in the winter, and not unfrequently as
a ball-room, when they have eaten out sufficient space in it.
The house, like all the rest, a wooden building with a
planked roof and gabled ends, was unusually painted. Torgensen,
in his youth, had himself commanded the Haabet,
and had traded in her for provisions and corn along the
coast of Scånia, and from it had imported Scånian fashions.
Instead of the deep, dull red, which harmonizes so well with
the tints of the country, he had painted his house in figures,
blue, and yellow, and white, and black, which had a singular,
but, upon the whole, a not unpleasant effect. Texts of
Scripture in rough black letter, and dates, and monograms of
himself, and wife, and children, were written under every
window and every gable; and the barge-boards and ridge
timber-ends, were carved as elaborately and grotesquely as
those of the church.
There was but little delicacy in accepting Torgensen’s
hospitality; his house was large enough for a barrack, and
its doors were as wide open as those of an inn. A large
room, that could not exactly be called kitchen, hall, workshop,
or dining-room, but served equally for any one of
these offices (and occasionally for a ball-room also, when the
store-room was too full to be used in that capacity), was open
to all comers; half-a-dozen boards, as thick almost as
baulks of timber, and placed upon trestles that might have
supported the house, formed the principal table; two great
chairs, like thrones, elaborately carved, and looking as if
they required a steam-engine to move them, stood on a sort
of dais;—these are not uncommon pieces of furniture in old
houses; they are called grandfather and grandmother chairs,
and are the seats of honour, though very seldom occupied at
all, unless the master and mistress of the house are old enough
to have lost their active habits. The more ordinary seats
were substantial benches, with or without backs, and three-legged
stools. Here and there was a great chest, a sort of
expense magazine for stowing away the wool, and the flax,
and the skins, which were in process of being converted into
linen, wadmaal, or shoes, by the farm servants. Over
these a series of shelves, like an ancient buffet, containing
pewter drinking-vessels, large brass embossed plates with
the bunch of grapes from the promised land or the expulsion
of Adam and Eve glittering upon them in all the
brightness of constant polish. Over these, again, were slung
a row of copper cauldrons and pots; and on the opposite side
a chest of drawers, carved and painted with grotesque
figures, was ornamented with heaps of blue and white dishes,
and pewter dinner-plates, and rows of brass candlesticks.
All this was beautifully clean and tidy, for the Norse men
and women keep all their cleanliness for their ships and
houses, and waste none of it on their persons.
A strong aromatic smell pervaded the whole room, from
the fresh sprigs of fir and juniper with which it was strewn
every morning, as old English halls were with rushes; it
might indeed have well passed muster for an English hall in
the olden times, but for the absence of the great gaping fire-place
with its cozy chimney-corner and fire-side benches;
the place of all this was ill supplied by the pride of Torgensen’s
heart, which he pointed out before they had been in the
room for five minutes, and called his “pot-kakoluvne”—a
great pyramidal heap of glazed tiles, portraying Scripture
subjects in Dutch costumes, and doing duty as a stove. This
being an importation from foreign parts was of course of
additional value; its pyramidal shape indicated Denmark as
the country of its manufacture, for in Sweden the corresponding
piece of furniture is cubical; and both are great
improvements on the cast-iron stoves of Norway, which get
nearly red hot, dry and parch the skin, crack the furniture,
and fill the rooms with a description of gas, which, whatever
it may do to a native, ensures to the stranger a perpetual
headache.
It is rare to find in Norway a farm, and consequently an
establishment of the size of Torgensen’s, though in Sweden
it is common enough. The Odal law, which enforces equal
division of property among the children, prevents any accumulation
of territorial property, and will ultimately reduce
Norway to a population of agricultural peasants with a commercial
aristocracy. The homesteads of the old Norwegian nobility
are deserted and decaying, like their families, but Torgensen
had been educated as a merchant and shipowner, as
elder sons frequently are, and having been fortunate in his speculations,
had been able to buy out his brothers, and to keep up
unimpaired the old hospitalities of his father’s mansion; and
thus fourteen or sixteen farm-servants, and as many girls,
with, it must be confessed, an indefinite number of children
that had found themselves by chance in the establishment
without any fathers at all, sat daily round that mass of
timber which was called the meal-board (mad borden), and
supped their daily gröd and drank their daily brandy.
Although the head of so great an establishment, Frue[30]
Kerstin—as Madame Torgensen was usually called, though in
truth she had no great right to the title—did not consider
herself exempt from household duties; in fact she was but
the principal housekeeper of the establishment, and wore a
bunch of keys big enough for an ordinary jail as a badge of
this distinction. It was not a very easy matter to catch her
unprepared, for frugality was by no means the order of the
house; but this day was really an exception to the general
rule, and she saw with some dismay the party which her
husband was bringing home with him. Lota was at the
sœter, and with her were most of the young girls and, of
course, their admirers. There had been hay-making at the
Præstgaard during the past week, and, it being Saturday
night, two-thirds of the remainder were dancing and drinking
there, and thus the party at the homestead being a small
one, the supper was none of the best. Good humour and
real welcome, however, supplied all deficiencies, which after
all, were more in Frue Kerstin’s imagination than in reality.
The evening passed off admirably in songs and conversation;
Torkel was an evident favourite,—and indeed his manly
character, his ready stories and songs, his fine voice and
constant and cheerful good humour well entitled him to the
distinction, to say nothing of a broad strath in the higher
Tellemark, and a lake, and a stream, and a saw-mill, and a
“hammer” as it was called, that is to say, a smelting furnace
for iron, to which, being the only son, he was undoubted
heir, a qualification which prudent parents are not apt to
overlook; but he had evidently risen in their esteem from
the fact of his having brought such popular characters as
English gentlemen to the homestead, and from the consideration
with which those gentlemen treated him.
Torgensen might have been better pleased had more
justice been done to his brandy, which was real Cognac and
admirable, and might have been a little scandalized at the
admixture of water, but his broad, jolly face never lost that
glow of good humour which made his guests feel they were
doing him a pleasure by drinking his brandy and eating his
good cheer. A lively conversation was kept up through
Birger and Torkel till late at night, and when the fishermen,
having duly thanked their hostess, after the customs of the
country, retired to rest in the great square boxes of fragrant
poplar leaves, they sank into such a mass of eider down,
that told well for the ci-devant attractions of the Lady
Christina.
CHAPTER XIII. THE CHURCH.
“Mighty stands the cross of God,
Smiling homeward to the soul.”
Almquist.
One reason why the fishermen were so anxious to reach
Soberud was, that the next day was Sunday, and they wanted
a day of rest, and a church to go to; and that was not to be
met with, on the Torjedahl, nearer than Christiansand itself.
Hitherto their church had been a remarkably tall fir-tree,
which had, somehow or other, been overlooked by the wood-cutters,
and stood some little way within the forest. It had
been chosen on account of its fancied resemblance to a church
spire, as it towered above the rest of the foliage; and the
lower branches having been cut away, and the space round
its trunk enclosed and decorated with green boughs—as all
Swedish churches used to be decorated on high days before
a royal ordinance was passed which forbade it,—and the
ground strewed with fresh juniper and marsh-marigolds—as
church floors are to this day,—it did make a very fair forest
church for fine weather; and as all the party could sing,
more or less, the service was performed a good deal more
ecclesiastically than it is in some of our English cathedrals.
Norway is not in communion with England; indeed,
strictly speaking, neither Norway nor Denmark are churches
at all,—they are merely establishments. Sweden may, by
some stretch of imagination and a little implicit faith in its
history, be considered a church, and is so considered by the
Bishop of London, who has authorised the Bishop of Gothenborg
to confirm for him. But though neither the Englishmen,
nor even the Swedes, considered themselves at liberty
to communicate in the church of Soberud, there was no reason
whatever against their joining in either the ottesång or the
aftensång (morning or evening service), or even against their
being present at the högmässe, or communion itself. The
men, who had no very accurate ideas of theology, had joined
in the English service very readily, and, indeed, had taken a
good deal of pains in decorating the forest church, for both
Tom and Torkel could read English as well as they could
speak it; and Jacob pretended to do so. They were, however,
all of them, extremely pleased at having the opportunity
of going to a consecrated church.
Perhaps one of the most remarkable features of the country
is the respect and reverence which all classes pay to their
churches, combined with the very little effect which religion
has on their conduct. Norwegians will face all sorts of
weather, in order to be present at the högmässe of Sunday.
Large sums of money—that is to say, large in comparison
with the wealth of the parishes—are spent upon their
churches, which are always in perfect repair, and always most
carefully swept, and trimmed with rushes or green sprigs.
A man would lose his character at once, and would be
shunned by his acquaintance as a hopeless reprobate, if he
neglected confirmation, or the Lord’s supper. Nothing,
indeed, is more common than to see, as an advertisement—“Wanted,
a confirmed cook or housemaid;” which advertisement
in no ways relates to the capacities of the servant, but
simply to her age, it being taken for granted that a person
of a certain age must have been confirmed. Indeed, the
legislature interferes with this: few offices can be held by
unconfirmed people, or by those who are not communicants;
and the legislature is only the interpreter of public opinion.
No man is at present molested for any religious opinions he
may please to hold; he simply loses his civil rights by
seceding from the national religion. In fact, Norway is the
most complete illustration of the establishment principle
which exists in the world.
At the same time, education, as it is popularly called—that
is to say, secular instruction—is almost universal. No
one ever meets with a Norwegian unable to read and write.
It may fairly be said that there is no country in the world
in which the standard of popular education is so high, and
the standard of popular morality so low,—where the respect for
religion is so very great, and the ignorance of religion so very
profound,—as it is in Norway. Sweden may be second in this
paradox, but Norway is by far the first.
It is not difficult to account for both these phenomena.
Few countries suffered more extensive church spoliation in
the good old Reformation times than Norway and Sweden;
and when, after that convulsion, men began to gather up the
fragments, they had to choose between an ill-paid clergy
whose social position would be inferior to that of almost all
their parishioners, and a sufficiently paid clergy with enormous
and unmanageable parishes. They chose the latter,
perhaps wisely, as more likely to preserve the character and
influence of the church till better times should come. They,
therefore, grouped the parishes into districts, few of which
were under ten or twelve miles long, and wide in proportion,
some very much larger, and one more than a hundred miles
in length. These districts are a collected group of parishes,
whose churches are still kept up under the name of Annexkyrker,
and service is occasionally performed in them, as a
sort of protest of their right.
Over these districts they placed rectors (Pfarrherrer),
whose revenue, though not what we should call large in our
country, is, nevertheless, greater than that of most of their
parishioners; they gave them good parsonage houses (præstgaards),
and, in almost every case, provided a dowager house
and farm for their widows. And, while they rendered their
position an object of competition, they provided that it
should be adequately filled, by establishing the most searching
examinations and the most careful provisions. The consequence
of this is, that the Norwegian clergy are almost invariably
very superior people, and, in a country where the
election is absolutely free, they are very generally chosen
members of the Storthing; while, in Sweden, they form an
integral estate of the realm, and possess their own independent
house of parliament.
In a country where there is so much ceremonial, so much
that speaks to the understanding of the uneducated by
speaking to their eye, it is impossible but that the externals
of religion should be respected—the position of its ministers
being such as is calculated to add to that respect, and not, as
is too frequently the case in Roman Catholic countries, such
as to diminish from it.
But, from the enormous size of the parishes, the externals
are all that can possibly come to the majority of the people.
The Scandinavian Church, learned as its individual ministers
may be, is not the teacher of the people, nor can it be—no
man can teach over fifty miles of country. Education, on
the other hand, there is plenty of, such as it is; for, not
only do the frost-bound winters give plenty of opportunity,
but the Church is the establishment, and the laws of the
land are such as to make reading and writing necessary to
all. At the same time, this education is absolutely secular,
it has nothing to do with the doctrines of religion, and,
consequently, nothing with the morals of the people, except
to increase their power of doing anything. Knowledge with
them, as with all others, is power: but, disjoined from religion,
this is generally the power of doing wrong. Whether
this be, or be not, a correct solution of the paradox, at all
events, the fact remains, and it has never been accounted for:
Norway is pre-eminent in the education of its people, and is
also pre-eminent in the statistics of crime.
But this is not the external view of the case: the mere
visitor in Norway would speak of the very religious habits
of the people. They certainly are a people of religious
habits, and will continue to be so as long as the externals of
religion are preserved with a magnificence and ceremonial
sufficient to keep up their reverence. But they are, merely,
a people of religious habits—they are not a people of religious
feelings. The marriage between faith and works with them
has been “dissolved by Act of Parliament, and neither their
faith nor their works are the better for it.”
Nothing of this, however, was visible on that Sunday
morning, as the Parson, when the hospitable and substantial
breakfast of the farm-house had at last come to an end,
walked quietly and musingly along the broad natural terrace
which led to the church, and commanded a beautiful view
over the wide valley and its quiet lake.
The church was a good-sized building, with nave, and
aisles, and transepts, and chancel. It was handsome and
striking, but very quaint and singular; every part of it was of
wood—not planks, but great solid beams of absolute timber;
centuries had passed over them, and there was no perceptible
decay,—they were merely weather-stained, and harmonised
in their colouring; and the whole edifice looked as if the day
of judgment would find it as firm and as eternal as the
Church it was built to represent. The whole was a confused
collection of acute gables and high-pointed roofs, covered with
diamond-shaped pine shingles. The windows were small,
square-headed, and few in number, barely enough, indeed, to
give light to the interior, and in no way contributing to the
architectural beauty of the church. No Norwegian ever
breathes more fresh air than he can help, or thinks of opening
his church windows; it is not very often that he opens
even the windows of his house.[31]
The sharp roofs, which are almost universal in the Norwegian
churches, though extremely ornamental, especially
where, as in the present case, they are shingled, are erected
not for ornament but for use. It is absolutely necessary,
in a land where snow falls so abundantly, to have such a
slope that will not permit it to lodge in any quantities in a
building which is not inhabited and constantly cleared. Were
the roof no steeper than those of most of our English churches,
the weight of lodged snow would soon become sufficient to
bear down any strength of timbers they could put into it.
Although there was but little of ornament about the windows
and doors—those more ordinary objects of ecclesiastical
decoration—this evidently did not arise from want of respect
or care for their church; for every gable—and there were
thirty or forty of them, great and small—was decorated with
elaborately-carved barge-boards, the ridge timber of every
one of them projected three or four feet beyond the face of
the building, and terminated in the head of some nondescript
animal, particularly ugly, but still the record and evidence of
infinite pains and labour. The chancel, the nave, and the
belfry, constituted three separate pyramids, rising one above
the other, consisting of from three to five stages each, and
terminating in round towers, roofed with short shingled
spires, like so many extinguishers. Each of these carried its
huge cross, for neither Norwegian nor Swede is afraid of that
holy emblem; and high on the top of all was the typical
cock—and if it did not warn all sinners to repent, it certainly
was not for want of being seen, for its size was colossal, and
in its new gilding it glittered in the air for miles on every
side. At the entrance of the churchyard, on the side facing
the lake, was a lych-gate, also of solid timber, with a roof
broad enough to shelter a whole funeral. The gate itself,
which, when shut, formed a stile, was shod with iron spikes,
to prevent the pigs from burrowing under. By the side of
it was that satire upon Norway, the evidence of Karl Johann’s
fruitless attempts to stem the tide of national habits—the
stocks—of course unemployed—at least, so far as their legal
purpose went;—they formed, however, a very comfortable
seat, upon which Birger was balancing himself backwards and
forwards, and trying to cross one foot over the other. The
other fishermen, as decent as they could make themselves up
for Sunday—which was rather dingy, after all, compared
with the bright colours of the peasants’ dresses—lounged
about, watching the assembling congregation.
It wanted some time to service, but there were scattered
here and there about the churchyard several parties, who
had already been for some time on the ground. Sunday as
it was, they had brought with them their garden tools, and
their waterpots, and their baskets of plants, or papers of
seeds, and had tucked up their smart embroidered petticoats,
or turned back their shirt-sleeves, according to their sex, and
were busily employed about the graves.
These were not oblong mounds of turf, like the graves in
our English churchyards, but raised borders with iron
edging, and were, for the most part, pictures of neat and
tidy gardening; wild flowers very often were all that grew
there, little blue gentianellas, or lilies of the valley, such as
might be met with anywhere in the open fjeld; more often
than all, that innocent little white trailer, the anthemis
cotula, which they call Balder’s eyebrow, and to which
they attach a peculiar sanctity; but, even if they were wild,
they always bore the traces of care and cultivation. Now
and then a rose would be woven into the semblance of a
cradle, or an edging of convolvolus major, twining round its
supports, would form a pyramid or a canopy, with its
fragile blue flowers already fading, though so early in the
day, perhaps an apt type of those who lay below them.
In no place does the Norwegian appear to so great
advantage as when busied about the graves of his family;
these are cared for by all who cherish the memory of the
dead, as their occupants would be were they still on earth.
Appointments are often made among distant members of a
family, and little parties are arranged to meet at the grave
of a common relative; the first object of all these is invariably
to trim its flowers. These are not sad or solemn
meetings; they are rather joyful reunions, much as if the
families were visiting the house of their relation, instead of
his grave. They are not even dressed in mourning, for their
meetings are continued long after the time of mourning is
passed: it is a sort of sober festivity. Much of the good
that exists in the Norwegian character—their family affection,
their patriotism, their attachment to their native country
throughout all their wanderings,—may be traced to their
graves.
Suddenly, the bells struck up, and every man removed his
hat, bowing to the church as if returning its salutation.
Other people, besides the funeral parties, now began to
collect from different quarters; here and there a stray
cariole rattled up to the churchyard gate, and an old grandmother
or two was brought along in one of the queer-looking
little carts of the country; but the people of Norway are anything
but vehicular in their habits; indeed, except the main
roads—and these are very few indeed—the country is in no
ways calculated for wheeled carriages.
Boats were a much more fashionable mode of progression;
several of these were already seen approaching from different
quarters of the lake, pulled by two or four oars, and containing
a cargo of many-coloured petticoats, which looked,
in the distance, like bunches of variegated tulips. Every
Norwegian, man or woman, learns to row almost as soon as
he learns to walk, and every Norwegian knows something of
the principles of boat-building; and very elegant little craft,
of the whale-boat build, they frequently turn out.
“Hallo!” said Birger; “we are in luck. I knew it was
Communion Sunday, but we are to have a lot of christenings
besides. Look at the little white bundles in their chrism-cloths,
and the elegant white satin bows. I do believe they
would none of them consider their children baptized without
those white bows.”
“Have you Christening Sundays, then?” said the Parson.
“Not always: in many places the clergy set their faces
against them. But the Norwegian is a gregarious animal:
he dearly loves a set feast, and hospitably considers the
more the merrier. In these country-places you will often
find not only Communion Sundays, but Christening Sundays,
and Wedding Sundays, and—”
“And funeral Sundays?” suggested the Captain.
“And funeral Sundays—you need not laugh, I mean what
I say; in the winter we have a little frost here, hot as it
is now,—and frost, compared to which your English frost is
but a summer’s day. They cannot very well bury their dead
in the winter, so they very frequently freeze them, and keep
them till the frost breaks up. Whenever that happens it is
of course necessary to bury immediately all that have died
since the beginning of the winter, and thus—though I suspect
you asked that question in pure joke—it really does happen,
that besides gregarious communions, christenings, and weddings,
they have gregarious funerals also.”
The bells now began to “ring in,” and that portion of the
congregation who were not related to any of the little white
bundles in satin bows, or were not destined to be godfathers
or godmothers to them, came stumbling into the church, and
arranging themselves as best they could on the benches.
To those coming in from the blaze of day outside, the
interior appeared perfectly dark, so that the people were
actually feeling for their places. The little square windows
looked like dots of light against the black walls, but as the
eye accustomed itself to the darkness, the scene came out by
degrees: the tracery of the chancel screen—the great crucifix
seen over it—the altar beyond, heavy with carving and
gilding—the font just within the screen—the pulpit just without
it—then the congregation themselves became visible—the
men on one side of the nave, the women on the other. It was
high mass; for though the Scandinavian Church be reformed,
she still retains the ancient expressions.
The short hymn which begins the service had closed, and
the priest in his wide-sleeved surplice—mäss skjorta—was
standing by the altar, while the Candidatus marshalled in the
porch a little procession of the christening parties. When
all was ready they entered the church, the congregation
singing, as they advanced towards the chancel, one of the
numerous hymns from the Bede Psalmer—to which little
book, unpretending as it is, the people owe nearly all the
very small acquaintance with the doctrines of their Church,
which they possess.
In our service we recognise but two parties, the priest and
the people—the English choir being, theoretically, at all
events, merely the leaders of the people’s responses; whereas,
in Scandinavia there are three distinct divisions of the service—the
prayers of the priest, the responses of the choir, and
the hymns of the people; which last are collected and
arranged for seasons and occasions, in their Bede Psalmer, a
book which, as they all sing more or less, most of them have
at their fingers’ ends.
While this was proceeding, the Candidatus threw open the
richly-carved doors of the chancel screen and admitted the
christening party into the choir, arranging them round the
font which stood at its entrance. The whole service was
very like our own, except that, after the exhortation, the
priest proclaimed his own commission to baptize, in the
words of the three last verses in St. Matthew’s gospel, before
reading the gospel from St. Mark which is used in the
English Church; and afterwards announced the value of the
Sacrament itself in the words of St. John—(chap. 3. v. 5, 6).
Before the act of baptism, the priest laid his hand on the
head of each child, severally, and blessed it; then, after sprinkling
it three several times as he pronounced the name of each
of the three Persons in the Trinity, he stepped forward to the
doors of the choir, and presented the new Christian to the
congregation, saying, “In the name of the Holy Trinity, this
child is now, through holy baptism, received as a member of
the Christian Church, and hath right given him to all the
privileges joined therewith: God give His grace, that he, all
the days of his life, may fulfil this his baptismal covenant.”
After a general thanksgiving for the new birth of the
children, and a general exhortation to the sponsors on the
subject of their duties, the congregation struck up another
hymn from the Bede Psalmer, while the children were
carried round the altar, which does not stand, as in our
churches, close to the well, but has a passage left behind it,
possibly for this purpose, the sponsors depositing on it their
offerings as they passed.
In the meanwhile the priest, kneeling on the altar steps,
was invested by the Candidatus and Kyrke Sånger (precentor)
with the mässe hacke, a crimson velvet chasuble, embroidered
in front with a gold glory surrounding the Holy
Name, and behind with a gold floriated cross. He remained
kneeling, while the Candidatus, paper in hand, went down
the nave, noting those who intended to present themselves
at the communion, in order to be certain that none should
partake of it who had not previously given their names to
the priest for approbation, and attended the early service of
confession—called communions-skrift. This was not so very
difficult to do, though none of the congregation had left the
church; for each intended communicant wore something
black or grey about him, in memory of the Lord’s death.
When this survey had been completed, the priest rose, and
facing the people, intoned the general thanksgiving, and
then turning again to the altar, made his confession alone, in
the name of his flock, the congregation itself being silent,
though the choir, at the occasional pauses, chanted the Kyrie
Eleeson. He then placed on the altar the “Oblaten Schalten,”
or wafer basket, the silver flagon, and lastly the chalice and
patin, which were brought to him with great ceremony, the
Candidatus and Kyrke Sånger, who carried them, being attended
by the whole choir.
The outer doors of the church were then shut, and the
Candidatus in his black gown and cassock having taken his
place on the lower step, the priest chanted the Gloria in
Excelsis, the choir taking it up after the first sentence.
After the consecration, the communicants were arranged
in four divisions; the married men, and the married
women, the single men and the single women; these
knelt in the centre, while the non-communicants stood
round them chanting softly the Agnus Dei, and bowing
their heads as the elements were administered to each communicant,
which was done individually, as with us.
There was then a general thanksgiving and a Hallelujah
by the choir; after which the priest dismissed the congregation
with his benediction, making the sign of the cross towards
them in the air. This form, which was universal
throughout three kingdoms scarcely more than a hundred
years ago, has almost entirely disappeared from the Swedish
Church, disused rather than forbidden; but many of the old
customs which in Sweden have become obsolete, in Norway
are religiously kept up. And besides this, politics have something
to do with the matter; there is always a great affectation
of Danish peculiarities, such as dressing the church with
green boughs on Whitsuntide, among those who are not over
well affected to Sweden. These and many similar ceremonials
retained in Norwegian churches are punishable by fine
or deprivation; but the people will have it so, and the priests
are very willing to indulge them,—members of Storthing and
law-makers as many of them are.
As for theology, the people are profoundly ignorant of that,
while the priests themselves, who, nine out of ten, are learned
divines,—thanks to the severe examination at Christiania
which generally weeds out one half of the candidates every
year,—are almost always politicians enough to borrow their
churchmanship from Denmark, are just as much Grundtvigites,
or Mynsterites, according as their bias is high or low,
as if they lived in Copenhagen itself.
After the conclusion of the service the fishermen were
lounging homewards, taking their time, and enjoying the
weather, and the views, and the sunshine, and the Sunday
quiet, and upon the whole, though all of then ardent
sportsmen, by no means sorry for a day of regular rest,
when the Pfarrherr himself, accompanied by his Candidatus
overtook them. The Candidatus was a long, tall youth, fresh
from college, conceited and shy at the same time, who looked,
as Birger afterwards observed, as if he smelt of the midnight
oil; but the Pfarrherr was a gentleman-like man,
with a broad, good-humoured, fresh-coloured face, looking
more like an English old-fashioned squire than anything
else. He had been priest of Soberud for many years, and
being a regular anti-Swede, was very popular. He had
represented the district in several Storthings, and was likely
to do so in many more, though he did belong to the commercial
party, which in Norway, as in America, is aristocratic
and tory, in opposition to the country party, who in
those nations are the radicals.
In addition to this, he was the probst, or rural dean, which
was a fortunate circumstance for him—for being an enthusiastic
admirer of Grundtvig, he was a great deal too much
of a ritualist and antiquarian for the continually receding
Swedish Church, and, under other circumstances, could hardly
have failed in being brought up before the Church Committee
at Christiania, for his little peculiarities; though it is a fact
that most of the ecclesiastical members of Storthing, who
composed it, thought, felt, and, if they dared, would act, precisely
as he did.
He spoke English readily enough—indeed, English is to
the educated Norwegians what French is to us,—and, as a
matter of course, invited the fishermen to share the hospitalities
of the præstgaard. This, however, would have been
a mortal offence to poor Torgenson, who, though he could
not speak to his guests one single word except through an
interpreter, would have been deeply scandalized, and, indeed,
would have felt lowered in the eyes of his countrymen, had
they deserted him. The Parson, however, being a professional
man, was an exception, and Pfarrherr Nordlingen
carried him off in triumph, Torkel promising to bring over
his knapsack to the præstgaard.
The præstgaard was not so large and rambling a building
as the hall, but was infinitely more comfortable; highly-polished
birchen furniture, and well-stored bookcases, gave it
an air of habitableness. The room into which they entered
was the summer parlour, whose French windows, shaded by
gauze curtains, were wide open, looking on a broad lawn and
a sparkling little stream beyond it; a good sprinkling of
juniper twigs took off, in a great measure, from the bare look
of the carpetless floors which always strikes an English eye.
It is a great absurdity, in a country which is not favourable
for sheep, and whose woollen manufactures seldom go higher
than the wadmaal, that the duty upon English woollens
should be so absurdly high. But the fact is, the Storthing is
so entirely in the hands of the democratic, or country party,
that anything beyond a class legislation is hopeless. The
idea is not that all the people should have warm blankets,
but that the democratic and agricultural majorities should
work up inferior wool. Weaving by hand is an agriculturist’s
winter work.
The Priestess Nordlingen, as she was called, a smiling,
pretty-looking woman, much younger than her husband, was
occupied in laying the cloth for aftonsmad, assisted by the
dowager priestess, who lived now on the other side of the
little stream, but being on excellent terms with her late
husband’s successor, spent a good deal more of her time in
her old home than she did in her new one.[32] Servants they
had, both of them, in plenty, for the præster are among the
richest in the land; but no Norwegian wife is above acting
as butler and housekeeper, and no Norwegian damsel, fröken
though she be, is above waiting at table. It does not seem
quite the thing to an English gentleman, to have the ladies
waiting upon him; but certainly in the Norwegian grammar,
if they have one, the masculine is more worthy than the
feminine.
Forest life is pleasant, but a contrast is pleasant also, and
the Parson, as he lay back in a peculiarly easy chair, sipping
leisurely the dram which invariably precedes a Norwegian
meal, and which, in the present case, was true cognac of
unquestionable genuineness and undeniable antiquity, considered
himself in very great luck indeed; in fact, much
as he admired the rude abundance of the hall, he infinitely
preferred the quiet elegances of the præstgaard. He made
some such observation to Nordlingen.
“Yes,” replied he, “the Reformation has injured the
Church cruelly, as an endowment, and has cut off five-sixths
of its clergy; but we individual præster have not much to
complain of as regards ourselves.”
“You must have pretty severe duties, though.”
“Well, they are not severe, because they cannot be done.
My parish was originally six; these have been thrown together
under one. If I had half-a-dozen curates, the parish
could not be visited, nor the annex kyrker properly served;
for in former times it supported six priests and six deacons;
so what one cannot do at all, one soon ceases to distress one’s
self about. The work is not done, cannot be done, and no
one expects it to be done. We have work enough—especially
those who, like me, are elevated to the Storthing,—but
it is not ecclesiastical work.”
“Do you know,” said the Parson, “I wonder that, under
such circumstances, you have no dissenters in Norway; our
Wesleyans arose from precisely the same cause. The spoliation
of our Church having diminished our number of priests,
and very seriously impaired the discipline which might, in
some measure, have kept the remainder to their work, the
people in many districts became heathens, much like your
own people, in fact; and when teachers rose up among them,
men followed them not because they were orthodox, but
because they were the only teachers to be had. But you
have some sort of dissenters, too, have you not?”
“O, the Haugerites. Yes—they are not dissenters, either.
Hauger held a good many doctrines of that arch-heretic,
Calvin: New Birth, as distinct from Baptism; Predestination,
Election, and so forth; but neither he nor his followers separated
from the Church. In truth, religion is at too low an
ebb among us for dissent; we have no more strength to
throw up dissenters, than an exhausted field has to throw up
weeds. Hauger succeeded, because he was not only a pious,
but a practical man; he was rich, too; he set up saw-mills
and iron-works, and advanced the money;—it is no wonder
he set up a religious party. But they are going down
now.”
“Ah, I understand—what we call in Ireland, soup Christians;
and now Hauger is dead, the spring has run dry?”
“No not at all—I do not mean to say that the practical
turn of his mind was not a recommendation to his theology;
but though he preached and did good, his good offices were
not confined to his own followers; his sect is subsiding
because it has no distinctive tenets, any more than that of
your Wesleyans. You made a great blunder; by turning
Wesley out of the Church, you forced him to set up a
Church government of his own; it is that government, and
not his doctrines, which keeps his followers in a state of
antagonism to a Church with which they have no real doctrinal
difference. We were not such fools with Hauger; he
met with a little persecution himself—for we Norwegians are
not tolerant,—but we were wise enough to leave his people
alone, so they did not think it worth while to differ, and in
fact never did.”
“I think there may be another reason,” said the Parson:
“with you a sectarian loses his rights of citizenship, by the
fact of his being a sectarian.”
“Well, and why should he not? by leaving the national
Church he makes himself a foreigner; we do not persecute
him any more than we persecute any other foreigners, but
we do not allow foreigners to legislate for us, neither will we
let him, or any man choose which of our national institutions
he will adhere to and which he will not—and our Church is
one of our national institutions;—we say to him, and to you
alike—you are strangers, both of you, you are both very
welcome to stay here, and to live under the protection of
our laws; moreover, we are very ready to naturalize either
of you, and to receive you as citizens of our country if you
like, but choose for yourselves; you cannot be Norwegians
and not Norwegians at the same time. These are the laws,
religious and political, of Norway, take them or leave them,
just as you like, but we cannot let you divide them. Now
where is the injustice of this?”
“I am sure I will not take upon myself to say,” said the
Parson, laughing; “supposing always, the State meddles
with Church affairs at all; and I, as an Englishman, have no
right to find fault with you for that. But what does your
Church itself say to all this; you called Calvin, just now, an
arch-heretic, what do you say about his followers? Besides, it
strikes me that there is a little difference of opinion between
your friend Hauger and St. Paul, on the subject of female
preachers, to say nothing of his unordained preachers, which
all of his people were; but that I suppose does not greatly
disturb you, as you attach so little value to Apostolical
Succession.”
This was a hard hit upon poor Nordlingen, who was a
most patriotic Norwegian, but yet, as a Grundtvigite, was
painfully aware of the want of divine commission in his
Church. It was, however, a random shot of the Parson’s,
who, speaking of the Norwegian Church as it then was,
certainly was not aware that the reforms which Grundtvig
and Mynster had effected in Denmark, had already penetrated
to a Church politically divided from them. He took the
opportunity of the bustle, caused by the servants bringing in
the aftonsmad, to turn the conversation to less dangerous
subjects, and occupied the rest of the evening, if not more
profitably, at least more to the amusement of the ladies of
the family, in drawing out the solemn Candidatus, who, fresh
from his examinations, was brimful of theology, which, when
once cheated out of his shyness, he was spilling over on
every opportunity, and mixing, most absurdly, with the
ordinary subjects of conversation.
The Church of Norway—if Church it can be called—is in a very
anomalous state. Intensely Erastian, it is dominated over by the
Storthing, and swayed by the political feelings of the country. These,
which are called Norwegian and patriotic, are really Danish. Norway
has never been strong enough, or rich enough, since the times of barbarism,
to form an independent nation of itself: feeling its weakness, it
acquiesced readily in the dominant position assumed by Denmark,
during the Union of Kalmar, which grated so much against the feeling
of the Swedes only because Sweden was conscious of its own innate
strength and real superiority. When that union was dissolved, it left
very bitter animosities between the two principal nations, which was
participated in by Norway, whose feeling was with Denmark. These
the lapse of time has mitigated, so far as the Danes and Swedes are
concerned. They have been renewed, however, in Norway, by the
forcible annexation of that country to Sweden, by the Congress of Vienna,
in compensation for the loss of Finland; and thus the Norwegian Church,
politically allied to that of Sweden, is affected by that of Denmark.
The original Reformation in Denmark, which involved that of Norway
also, was exclusively a political movement; that of Sweden was
political also, but grander interests were connected with it. Sweden
was a country shaking off a foreign yoke, and the Reformation succeeded
because the Reformers were patriots also. If reformation in religion is
to be mixed with earthly motives at all, it could not have had a grander
alliance; but the Reformation of Norway was a mere change of politics.
It was forced on by the Court against the will of both clergy and people—the
king, at that time, being nearly despotic. It was not resisted;
there was too little religion—Romanist, or anything else—in the country
for the people to feel any sort of excitement in the matter. After the
fall of Christiern, a new religion was thought to be the most effectual
mode of depressing the remains of his party. A certain German, of the
name of Buggenhausen, was constituted the leading reformer; and, in
fact, the Church of Denmark was not reformed, but destroyed, and
Lutheranism imported in its place, and forced upon the nation by an
arbitrary sovereign. The consequences were precisely similar to those
which followed upon many of the Reformations in Germany. The
Church remained in form, but the vital energy had gone from it. Many
godly persons it had from time to time in its communion, but fewer and
fewer as the time went on, and the traces it has still left of its vitality
are few in number.
“Towards the close of the last century,” says Hamilton, “the progress
of stupor was complete, and vital Christianity seemed to have
departed from the land; formalism was at its height, and, oddly enough,
bigotry appeared to accompany it. An attempt at revival has been
made during the present century, by Dr. Mynster, now Bishop of
Copenhagen, and by Grundtvig, who may to a certain extent be considered
as the leaders of the high and low Church parties; Mynster taking
his stand on the doctrines connected with the Atonement; Grundtvig,
on the faith once delivered to the saints. There does not appear to be
any opposition between them, any more than there is opposition in the
doctrines upon which they take their respective stand against Indifferentism
and Rationalism; but this is the bent of their minds and the
direction of their teaching.”
Mynster says, in a letter to Oechlenschlager, “I design, God willing,
to open my mouth, and that in divers ways, certainly first to try what
echo will answer my voice; but it shall not be quite in vain, for I know
that I am among the called, and I muse day and night in watching and
praying that I may be also among the chosen.”
“This object,” says Hamilton (Sixteen Months in the Danish Isles),
“he speedily obtained; and from that time till the present, there has
been no cessation of that gentle, but loud and solemn voice, persuading
men everywhere to repent. In speaking and writing, Christ crucified
has been the beginning and end, the first and the last.”
Grundtvig, who, like our Keble, was a poet before he was a preacher,
and who has taught by his poems, no less than by his sermons ever since
he brought the great powers of his mind to bear against Rationalism, some
few years after Dr. Mynster began to be celebrated. “It seemed to him
a sin,” he said, “that he should be taken up with Mythology, while the
pastors of God’s flock were neglecting their duty;” so he stepped forward,
asserting the Faith against human might and reason. His leading
text, upon which all his preaching hinges, is the Faith once delivered to
the saints,—pure and complete from the beginning, and incapable of
change. “Every change,” he argues, “is a corruption, and the office
of the Church is simply to restore, either by supplying or by lopping
off what has been superadded to the original Revelation, and to preserve
the faith in its purity.” His style of teaching, therefore, is necessarily
traditional. Grundtvig, himself a most powerful preacher, has naturally
a somewhat exaggerated idea of the importance of preaching, as
opposed to reading. Preaching, he calls the living word. There is a
curious mixture of truth and fallacy in his idea of never putting the
Bible into the hands of an unconverted person, because there is no hope
that such a person can understand it. “It was written for the Church,”
he says truly; and he infers from this, that it must be expounded orally
by a Churchman, because “faith cometh by hearing:” and from this
text he argues, that the Spirit of God does not instruct in the reading
of the Word. Grundtvig, from the first, has been the most uncompromising
opponent of Rationalism, and his line of argument much more
telling and difficult to withstand than that of his fellow-worker,
Mynster; and, accordingly, though now popular, he has not passed
through his course without getting into difficulties of a personal nature,
from the opposition of the Rationalist party. He resigned his living
at one time, and for many years was not a pastor of the Danish National
Church at all.
These great leaders have their followers and their respective schools;
but it is much to be feared that the revival which they have produced
is merely the effect of their own personal influence and talent, for there
is nothing in the system of the Danish Church which can perpetuate it,—that
this Church, itself severed from the universal Church of Christ,
has no inherent vitality,—and that, as the influence and name of even
Calvin could not prevent even his own Geneva from becoming Unitarian
when other teachers had arisen and his memory had faded from the
recollections of his people, so the teaching of Grundtvig and Mynster is
but a temporary revival of Evangelical teaching,—the produce of the
individual, not of the Church.
The Swedish Church, as distinguished from the Danish and Norwegian,
has far more pretensions to Churchmanship than either of these,
though it may have lost more of the externals and ceremonial. Its
Apostolic Succession has been doubted, and certainly the question is
not entirely clear. At the time of the Reformation, Matthias, Bishop
of Strengnäs, and Vincent, Bishop of Skara, had been beheaded by
Christiern; and on the other side, Canute, the Archbishop, and Peter,
Bishop of Westeras, had been beheaded by his rival, Gustavus,—so that,
at the final Diet of Westeras, at which the Reformation was determined
upon, Sweden could muster but four bishops, of whom it is said that
Bishop Brask only had been duly consecrated; two others, Haraldsen
and Sommar, were only bishops elect. The results of that Diet caused
Brask to go into voluntary exile, and as all communion with Rome was
thereby broken off, the question of the Succession hinges on the fact,
that Gustavus had previously sent the fourth Bishop, Magnussen, elect of
Skara, to be consecrated at Rome. This fact, which is distinctly affirmed
by Gejer, has been questioned, though on no very good grounds.
The weakness of the Swedish Church, however, does not lie here, but
in its peculiar connection with the State, which is perpetually involving
it in secular politics, and as perpetually taking from its spiritual character.
This defect existed before the Reformation just as it does now,
and then, as now, formed its element of weakness: then, the bishops
were treated with by contending sovereigns as the most influential
barons—now, they are tampered with as the most influential politicians.
Sweden is governed by a king and four houses of parliament—the
Nobles, the Clergy, the Burghers, and the Peasants; and a bill passing
any three of these houses becomes the law of the land. But, though
the houses are of equal authority, the value of individual votes must
vary inversely as the numbers of which those houses are composed:
for instance, the house of the Nobles contains about 1500 members, and
the house of the Clergy 80; the value of any single ecclesiastic’s vote
is, therefore, eighteen times greater than that of any nobleman’s vote.
The effect of this has been precisely the same as the more arbitrary
nature of the Norwegian Reformation: the Church of Sweden has
become—first political, then worldly, then Erastian; and, at the same
time, the enormous size of the parishes operates precisely as it does in
Norway,—the majority of the people are estranged from their Church
through sheer ignorance of its doctrines,—the prescribed forms of
Confirmation, Communion, and so forth, being gone through as essentials
rather of civil promotion than of eternal Salvation.
It is not a matter of surprise, therefore, that, year after year, the
Swedish Church is losing some portion of her Churchmanship, and
degenerating more and more every day into a mere establishment. At
this point it would have arrived long ago, had it not been for Archbishop
Wallin, who, not only a sound divine, which most of the educated
clergy are, but by far the greatest poet modern Sweden has produced,
has embodied the doctrines of the Church in a series of hymns, which
now form part of the Church service, under the name of “Bede
Psalmer.”
Sweden is a musical nation, and these hymns are extremely popular.
So far as the author can find out, they are the only means by which
ninety-nine Swedes out of every hundred have any knowledge whatever
of the Christian doctrine, or in any way differ from their Heathen
ancestors—the worshippers of Odin and the mythology of Asgard.
As a specimen of Wallin’s poetry, we will take his hymn on the
Creation—a paraphrase of the 104th Psalm,—perhaps as fine a specimen
of rhythmic illustration as any that exists. We give it from
Howitt’s translation:—
“Sing, my soul,
The Eternal’s praise,—
Infinite!
Omnipotent!
God of all worlds!
In glorious light, all star-bestrewed,
Thou dost Thy majesty invest,—
The Heaven of heavens is Thine abode,
And worlds revolve at Thy behest.
Infinite!
Omnipotent!
God of all worlds!
Thy chariot on the winds doth go;
The thunder follows Thy career;
Flowers are Thy ministers below,
And storms Thy messengers of fear.
Infinite!
Omnipotent!
O Thou, our God!
“The earth sang not Thy peerless might
Amid the heavenly hosts of old,—
Thou spakest, and from empty night
She issued forth, and on her flight
Of countless ages proudly rolled,—
Darkness wrapped her, and the ocean
Wildly weltering on her lay;
Thou spakest, and, with glad devotion,
Up she rose with queenly motion,
And pursued her radiant way.
“High soared the mountains,
Glittering and steep,—
Forth burst the fountains,
And through the air flashing—
From rock to rock dashing—
’Mid the wild tempest crashing—
Took their dread leap.
“Then opened out the quiet dale,
With all its grass and flowers;
Then gushed the spring, so clear and pale,
Beneath the forest bowers;
Then ran the brooks from moorlands brown,
Along the verdant lea,
And the fleet fowls of heaven shot down
Into a leafy sea;—
’Mid the wild herd’s rejoicing throng,
The nightingales accord—
All nature raised its matin song,
And praised Thee—Nature’s Lord:
O Thou, who wast, and art, and e’er shall be!
Eternal One! all earth adoring stands,
And through the works of Thy Almighty Hands
Feels grace and wisdom infinite in Thee!
“And answer gives the sea,—
The fathomless ocean—
The waste without end—
Where, in ceaseless commotion,
Winds and billows contend;—
Where myriads that live without count, without name—
Crawling or swimming in strange meander—
Fill the deep as it were with a quivering flame;
Where the heavy whale doth wander
Through the dumb night’s hidden reign,
And man unwearied with earth’s wide strife
Still hunts around death’s grim domain—
The over-flood of life.
“To Thee! to Thee! Thou Sire of all,
Our prayers in faith ascend,—
All things that breathe, both great and small,
On Thee alone depend.
Thy bounteous hand Thou dost unclose,
And happiness unstinted flows
In streams that know no end.”
CHAPTER XIV. BREAKING UP THE ENCAMPMENT.
“To-day shall be spent in drinking,—
We need not spare the ale,—
And we will set sail on the morrow,
Nor will our good luck fail.”
Svenska Folk-visor.
The whole party found their quarters in the Soberud valley
so extremely comfortable, and the game so very abundant,
that they were readily induced to prolong their stay; and the
Parson struck up quite a friendship with the worthy Pfarrherr,
and talked theology with the Candidatus. Torkel, who
had had long, and, apparently, very interesting conversations
with old Torgenson, the import of which did not transpire,
had asked a temporary leave of absence, which was readily
granted—the Parson having, no doubt, his own suspicions
from what he saw at the sœter, but prudently holding his
tongue about them. Indeed, he was no loser; for Torkel’s
place, in every respect, except as an interpreter, was amply
supplied by Karl Torgenson, who, having served his time of
drill, had been just discharged from the corvette Freya, and
had arrived, somewhat unexpectedly, on the Sunday evening.
Karl spoke a little English, though not enough for conversation;
but, on the other hand, he was as good a sportsman as
Torkel himself, and much better acquainted with the localities
of his own home.
Under his guidance, the Parson’s flies lured many a trout
from the blue waters of the lake; but the best fish—such fish,
indeed, as he had never before seen—were caught by a discovery
of his own.
The lake lying in a broad valley, many of its shores were
shelving and sandy, or slightly muddy, instead of plumping
down in rocky sublacustrine precipices, and all these shallows
were fringed with weeds. Coming home late in the evening,
he saw a number of children in the water, ladling out, with
tins and buckets, and vessels of every description, hundreds
and thousands of little white glittering fish, which were
feeding on the weed. These were the young of the fresh-water
herring, which, whenever they can get them, which is
not often, the Norwegians make into soup. The full-grown
fish are not taken till later in the year, and this is never
done except by nets, for they will rise at no bait of any kind
big enough to put on a hook.
The Parson was looking at the little glittering things as
they sparkled in the moonlight,—and no fish is so brilliantly
white as the fresh-water herring,—when, amid the shouts
and screams of the children, a huge trout was tumbled on
shore out of one of the buckets. “O! by George!” said the
Parson to Karl Torgenson, who smiled as if he understood
every word, “that is worth noting; that fellow came to
make his supper off the herrings, and having ventured in too
far, has got entangled in the weeds. There will be some of
his great relations come to supper, also, for certain. Let us
try.”
A light fly-rod, such as the Parson carried, was not the
weapon best adapted for the purpose; but he forthwith unlooped
his casting-line, and taking a trace out of his fly-book—for
he was never without trolling materials—fitted
one of the little glittering gwineads on the litch; and wading
quite as deep as was prudent, and a good deal deeper than
was pleasant, considering the time of night and the coldness
of Norwegian waters, he cast beyond the edge of the weeds;
the bait had hardly began to spin, when a fish took him, such
as required all his skill to master with his fly-rod, and long
and arduous was the struggle before he succeeded in leading
him captive through an opening in the weeds, and drawing
him quietly into shoal water.
The fact was, that the whole coast, like that of France
during the late war, was in a state of strict blockade; the
little gwineads, like the chasse-marées, were dodging about
in-shore, while the great trout, unable, from their draught of
water, to pursue them into the shallows, were grimly cruising
about and snapping up any adventurous little youngster that
showed his nose outside. The fly-rod was too feeble to do
much execution that evening, for it took half an hour to
master a fish with it; but the discovery was not lost on the
Parson, and the next evening saw him with a twenty-two
foot cane trolling-rod, commanding, at easy cast, the whole
fishable water, and supplying the præstgaard, as well as the
hall, with such trout as they had never dreamt of.
The Captain and Birger were no less assiduous in their
own particular calling, and from the quantity of game, including
deer, which they brought in, might very fairly be
said to have paid for their keep. The fjeld of Soberud was
much more open, and better adapted for game, than the
valley of the Torjedahl and its surrounding mountains, and
also, as there were fewer thick trees, better adapted for
getting at it.
Pleasant as all this was, time wore on, and it became
necessary for the party to resume their knapsacks and retrace
their steps, Torgensen having first exacted a promise that
they would visit Soberud once more before their departure.
“Perhaps,” said he, mysteriously, “I may have occasion to
muster all the friends of my house before the winter comes
on, and whenever that occasion happens, I hope the present
party will honour my roof-tree.”
Tom, who interpreted this speech, could not conceive what
it alluded to, though it seemed to make him very merry; but
the mystery, if ever there was one, was soon explained by
Lota’s blushes, when the Captain, on seeing her and the
missing Torkel together, as the party arrived at the Aalfjer
sœter that evening, shook his head at them with a knowing
smile. In fact, Torkel had made such excellent use of his
time, that while the party were occupied with the fish and
game of the Soberud valley, he had contrived to settle, and
definitely arrange, with the full approbation of Torgensen,
that his marriage should take place in the autumn. No
Norwegian ever thinks of marrying till the work-day summer
is past; besides, Torkel was making a very good thing of it
with his present employers, and if he were not, it is not
altogether certain that even Lota’s attractions would have
been sufficient to draw him away from the sports in which he
was engaged. Apparently, he did not find those things which
he had to settle with Lota herself, so easy of arrangement as
those which had been the subject of his discussions with her
father; for though the first Sunday evening was quite long
enough to settle everything with him, it took him three or
four whole days at the sœter to arrange matters with her;
indeed, there the party found him when they encamped there
on their return, and, notwithstanding this, he had so much
more to say on the last morning, that the fishermen had
arrived for some hours at their old encampment on the
Torjedahl, and had had time entirely to change the whole
plan of the campaign before they saw anything of him.
During their absence the post had arrived, bringing
letters for them all; these Ullitz had forwarded, and their
first occupation, while their attendants were preparing the
supper and exchanging news with those who had been left
behind, was to read their respective letters. Birger had
a whole heap—which he did not deserve—from a host
of relations and friends, whom, in his ardour for sport,
he had grievously neglected; all of these he postponed for a
great, square, official looking document, with “Kongs ofwer
Commandant’s Expedition” written in the corner: this he
did deserve, for it contained, along with an acknowledgement
for his valuable portfolio of military drawings, an
extension of leave, which the dutiful lieutenant had asked
for on the plea so well known in the British army, “family
arrangements.”
“Hurrah,” said the Captain, “here’s a letter from Moodie;
he wants us to meet him at Gotheborg, where he is bringing
down a cargo of elks and reindeer, and Northern wild
beasts, for the Zoological Gardens; and then we are to go
back with him, he says, to some place which I can neither
spell nor pronounce, where, the chances are, we shall get a
crack at a bear.”
“You have always had a weakness that way,” said the
Parson, “I believe getting a crack at a bear, as you call it,
was your principal reason for coming here at all.”
“Well, but Moodie says there is capital fishing on the
Gotha; the salmo ferox, my boy! what do you think of
that? and you know the fish are beginning to run small
here, there was not a full-mouthed salmon caught the last
day we fished here, nothing but miserable grauls.”
“Grauls give very pretty sport, though, and as for the
salmo ferox, it is nothing but an ill-conditioned, over-grown
trout, that has got a cross of the pike in it, and consequently
will take nothing but the spinning bait. But I must say
I should like to see old Moodie again.”
“Will you go then?”
“Ask Birger.”
“Hey! what?” said Birger, looking up from his letters,
which, after all, seemed to be more interesting than he had
expected. “Moodie? ah! yes! that’s the fellow my friend
Bjornstjerna mentions; a terrible fellow he says, a very
Hercules against the wild beasts—there is never a skal
without him; Bjornstjerna says he had rather have him than
a hundred men, any day.”
“And who is Bjornstjerna?”
“One of the Ofwer Jagmästerer, the officers, that is, whose
business it is to call out the peasantry to keep down the
wild beasts; he is very good authority on such matters, and
I vote we accept your friend Moodie’s invitation, it is much
the best chance we have of seeing sport.”
The Captain looked a little puzzled; he was anxious
enough to go, but the invitation had been to him and the
Parson, and of course had not included Birger, whose existence
was necessarily unknown to Moodie; in fact, the
Captain had not thought of that difficulty. Birger, who had
spent a good part of his leave in England, where he had some
friends, burst out laughing.
“Ah, that is just your English way, you think you cannot
take me, because your friend has not sent me a written
invitation in due form—that is not the way we go on here;
my friend’s friend is my friend, and if your countryman has
not learnt that in the four years during which, Bjornstjerna
tells me, he has been living in the country, it is high time he
should learn. When does he drive his flocks and herds to
Gotheborg?”
“Why, if we would meet him, we must start directly, for
he comes next week.”
“Well, why not start directly? come Parson! one river is
as good as another.”
“Scarcely that,” said the Parson, laughing; “but I do
want to see how Moodie carries on the war in your barbarous
country; so let us go—Tom,” raising his voice so as
to be heard from below, “when does the next steamer sail for
Valö?”
“The day after to-morrow, at day-break,” said Tom, whose
head was a perfect register of naval events.
“That will never do,” said the Parson, who contemplated
a farewell visit to the Torjedahl salmon.
“Not do!” said Birger, “why it is the very thing. Strike
the tents to-morrow, early,—down the river without stopping
at Christiansand Bridge,—run alongside the steamer, take
our berths,—stow our goods,—and then we shall have half the
day to land and visit our stores at Ullitz’s, kiss Marie, and
make what changes we want in the baggage department. I
must take my uniform for Gotheborg; we are not ashamed
of our uniform in our country,” he added, significantly nodding
at the Captain, who, like most English soldiers, was rather
addicted to mufti; “and you too will want more baggage,
now that you are going into a civilized country.”
“Do not let Torkel hear you say that. He considers
Christiansand the emporium of fashion and the centre of
civilization. By-the-bye, what are we to do with our men?
I will not leave Torkel behind,—I have quite an affection for
the fellow.”
“Leave Torkel behind!” said Birger; “why should you?
you do not think the Swedes will eat him, do you? I mean
to take Piersen myself; these Norwegians, rascals as they
are, all of them, are a great deal smarter and handier in
forest work than our Swedes; their education fits them for
Jacks-of-all-trades; they get kicked out of doors, with a
pack on their back, at ten years of age, to earn their livelihood,
and learn smartness and knowledge of the world,—and
they do learn it, and precious scoundrels they grow up:—however,
they answer our purpose, for they can turn their
hands to anything.”
At that moment Torkel came up, looking a little confused
and ashamed of himself, and not the less so that the
Parson asked significantly for the latest news from the
sœter of Aalfjer.
His love, however, did not prevent him from being wild
to go, as soon as he heard of the change of plans—a sentiment
in which the rest fully participated; indeed there was not a
dissentient voice in the camp, except that of the boatmen,
who were to be discharged at Christiansand, and whose fun
was thus prematurely cut short. A small pecuniary gratification
set matters right in that quarter also, and when the
evening closed on the last day of the encampment, the hopes
and eager anticipations of a brilliant future had already
effaced all regrets for a happy past.
The sun was hardly above the horizon, when the whole
camp was astir, and active preparations for departure were
begun. These did not occupy any very great deal of time;
they had not come up the river in very heavy marching
order, and there were a good many hands at the work. The
principal part of it was securing the smoked salmon, of which
they had now a very fair cargo. This is a very acceptable
present everywhere; for though salmon are plenty in
Norway, the means of catching them are very imperfectly
understood. There was also a goodly array of forest preserves,
which, being too heavy for transport, and subject to a
heavy duty into the bargain from jealous Sweden, were destined
to swell the ample stores of Madame Ullitz.
While all this was going on, the Parson, rod in hand, took
a melancholy farewell of his favourite throws, in the course of
which he caught two fish—both grauls, though, as the
Captain took care to remark. By ten o’clock everything
was ready, and the boats shoved off on their downward
voyage.
“Well, certainly it is much pleasanter to go with the
stream than against it, in all the affairs of this life,” said the
Captain, as the boats closed again, after racing down the
upper rapids which had cost them so much time and so
much trouble to ascend. “Here we have undone in half an
hour and at our ease, what it took us half a day to do, and
with harder work than I wish to meet with very often.”
“Not an uncommon thing in this wicked world of ours,”
said the Parson. “Facilis descensus;—you know the rest.
However, that which is pleasant is not always safe,—so look
out. Here we are, at the head of the Oxea rapid, and a
touch of these rocks, going down stream, you will find a very
different thing from a touch going up. Give way, boys!
let me have good steerage-way through the water.”
And he dashed into the very midst of the racing current—rocks,
trees, and banks flying past him, till, before they
seemed to be well in it, the three boats were floating side
by side in the broad flat below, at the lower end of which
the encampment had been made on the first night of the
expedition. A short halt here, which they made, more for
the pot than for sport, secured them a good catch of trout
and a graul or two; and their rapid course down the deep,
full-flowing stream was resumed, leisurely indeed—but so
swift was the current under the deceitful show of its calm
and quiet surface, that notwithstanding a little difficulty at
the lower rapids, where there was not water enough in the
boat canal to float them, the sun was still high when they
rounded the dockyard point, and opened the harbour of
Christiansand.
“Hullo, Tom, where is the steamer?”
Tom rubbed his eyes, for he could not believe them, but
no amount of rubbing will produce a vision of that which is
not, and the fact became indisputable as they pulled on—there
was no steamer in the harbour. The Parson, who
after all, had left very unwillingly, and rather in compliance
with the wishes of his companions than in accordance with
his own fancy or judgment, began to feel sulky; the Captain,
who had proposed the change, began to feel anxious, and to
labour under the weight of his responsibility; and even
Birger, who had nothing to reproach himself for, was not
entirely at his ease.
Things however, were not so bad as they had anticipated;
there was no steamer certainly, but Ullitz, who was lounging
on the quay—where indeed the good man spent the greater
part of his summer hours, looking out for travellers and
seeking whom he might entertain, and who certainly did not
approve of a change of plans which deprived him of a very
profitable commissariat,—informed them that the day had
been changed, and that the steamer would not arrive till the
following evening, nor sail till the day after.
“Never mind,” said Birger, “let us have one good supper,
and one comfortable night’s rest more than we expected; I
will be bound we strike out something for to-morrow, and
after all we shall lose nothing, we may as well be at Christiansand
as at Gotheborg.”
Ullitz did not say, but looked as if he thought they had
much better.
“The sea is as calm as glass,” said Torkel to Tom.
“Would not this do for eider duck-hunting.”
“It is a great pity that Fröken Lota has to make up her
stores of eider down now,” said Tom, “and she to be married
in the autumn.”
Torkel could afford to laugh, for he knew very well—indeed,
none had cause to know it better, he having supplied
a good half of them—the extent of Miss Lota’s eider
stores. All this was an aside, and Tom resumed aloud, “To
be sure, there could not be better weather, we shall not have
ripple out in the haaf[33] any more than in the fjord; and
besides, we can take some cod-lines, and when we have
killed or driven off the ducks we can fill our boats with rock
cod.”
“What is all that?” said the Captain.
Tom explained.
“Upon my word I think it will do very well; what say
you, Birger?”
“Nothing better, I have never been duck-hunting myself,
but they say it is capital fun; there are three or four fellows
of ‘ours’ who always get leave in the duck season, and pass
a month or two on the islands of the Baltic; they say it is
first-rate sport—I vote we go.”
And so it was settled, and the details of the expedition
were arranged as they walked up those sandy deserts of
streets which they had traversed on the first night of their
landing.
Marie received them with smiles, and when she learnt
the object of their sport, so worked on the Captain’s susceptible
heart, that he vowed she should have every feather that
fell to his gun. The Parson was rather affected to Lota, but
Torkel, who had been a little stung by Tom’s joke, magnanimously
transferred the offer to Marie, who, “poor thing,
might perhaps want the down, and Lota would not know
what to do with it, she had a great deal more than she
could make up already;” which, considering his own fame as
a hunter, as well as that of young Svensen, between whom
Miss Lota had been coquetting (so Tom averred) till she
ought to have been ashamed of herself, was not unlikely to
be literally true.
It must be remarked that this is the sporting way of collecting eider
down. The business way is robbing the nests, which is done in spring,
and is very slow work—though sufficiently dangerous.
CHAPTER XV. EIDER DUCK HUNTING.
“For now in our trim boats of Norroway deal
We must dance on the waves with the porpoise and seal;—
The breeze it shall pipe, so it pipe not too high,
And the gull be our songstress whene’er she flits by;—
We’ll sing while we bait, and we’ll sing while we haul,
For the deeps of the Haaf have enough for us all.”
Norway Fishing Song.
The dawn was yet grey upon the mountains, and the light
steaming mist was still resting on the glassy surface of the
harbour, when the three boats slipped off noiselessly from the
dockyard point. The fishing rods, now useless, had been
landed, and the guns and rifles had taken their places, while
the after-lockers were stored with cod lines and their gear,
to say nothing of the långref that had done such good service
at Mosse Eurd, and which was now converted into a spillet.
The boats were well provisioned—that is almost an invariable
rule in Norway, so far as quantity goes, but on this
occasion, they were provisioned with all the delicacies the
fair Marie could lay her hands upon; nay, so interested was
she in the subject, that she came down with the party, in
the grey of the morning, to superintend the packing herself;
and, after carrying on a lively conversation with Birger, on
the road, endeavoured, in vain, to make the Captain understand
something or other; her anxiety to convey her meaning
brought her cheek very much closer to his lips than perhaps
she intended—how close it was impossible to say, for the
morning light was still very faint,—in all probability, Birger
might have come in for a share of the secret, whatever it
was, but he was rude enough to burst out laughing, and to
add something in Swedish, about bribery and corruption,
which put the young lady to immediate flight.
“You need not look so conceited,” said he, (possibly the
grapes were sour); “it was not you, it was the eider down
she was thinking of.”
No one knows what silence is, who has not been in the
North—what we call silence, is a perpetual recurrence of a
thousand familiar sounds, so familiar that the ear does not
notice them; the chirp of hundreds of birds, and millions of
insects go to make up English silence;—perhaps within the
Arctic circle it may be deeper than that which, at that early
hour, brooded over the harbour of Christiansand; but even
that was a silence which made itself to be felt; and the
regular and steady roll of the oars in the rowlocks, as the
boats shot out into the fjord, fairly echoed among the cliffs
like grumbling thunder. Nothing could be more calm and
unbroken than the water, which seemed to be hot, for a
slight steam kept slowly rising from the whole surface, and
hung upon it like a veil which now began to whiten in the
increasing light; every here and there a seal would put up
his head, like a black oily bead, take a steady view of the
boats, and then dip under, without a ripple to show where
the surface had been broken.
“Oars!” said the Captain, in a whisper, as one of
these sheep of Proteus evinced a little more indiscreet
curiosity than his neighbours, and as his boat, which had
been leading, lost her way, he rose quietly, and his rifle
thundered through the still air of the morning, as if it had
been a six-pounder, while its echoes were caught and
repeated, crack after crack, by a dozen sharp cliffs and
wooded islands.
The surface was sufficiently disturbed this time—for the
Captain’s rifle seldom spoke in vain,—and the seal was struggling
in the agonies of death; the men stretched out on their
oars as if they were racing, but before the boat could reach
the spot, all was quiet again, and a slight red stain in the
water was all that remained to tell of the Captain’s accuracy
of aim. The Captain gazed on the deep blue below.
“It is of no use,” said the Parson, “they always sink, and
it is a great shame to be firing at that which you cannot
get when you have killed it.”
“You used to shoot them, yourself, in Sligo Bay.”
“Yes, I did, but there was a tide there, and we shot them
at high water, and picked them up when the sands were
bare—even then, though, we lost a good many, but here
there is not a chance; that fellow is food for lobsters.”
“Well, I hope the cockneys will profit by it when the
next batch goes to the London market,” said the Captain,
loading his rifle, “but have we no tide here?”
“We have no sands that we can make available; but a
tide there is, though a faint one. Did you ever hear how
there came to be a tide in Norway—for originally there certainly
was nothing of the kind? Thor was on a visit to
Loki Uttgard, who, in all love, challenged him to drink his
great horn out, and to turn it over to show there were no
heeltaps, as is the custom in Norway. Thor had never been
conquered yet in drinking, or in anything else; in fact, he
had the hardest head, inside and out, of any god in Norway.
He drank, and he drank, but there was no bottom to be
found to the horn, and Thor put it down with shame, and
acknowledged himself at last vanquished; but the Uttgarders,
who were all giants of a very ferocious stamp, stood
round, in speechless admiration. Loki had made a communication
between the bottom of the horn and the sea
itself, and what Thor had drunk was the ebb.”
“H’m! Hence the fine of a glass of salt and water,” said
the Captain, “I have often inflicted it, but I never knew
the high authority I had for so doing. Come, boys, give way
for the Haaf.”
But before so doing they had to stop at a shoal, well
known to Tom, who now began to take the command, while
Torkel sank into comparative insignificance. It was necessary
to lay in a supply of cod-bait, which was not to be had
in deep water. This was a species of large limpet, that clung
to the rocks by thousands, and was dislodged by the boat-hooks,
and stowed away in the balers. At length the swell
of the open sea made itself to be felt, for ever heaving and
setting and rolling along in vast mountains, and flashing in
spray against the black rocks, though the surface was as
glassy and unbroken as that of the harbour. The whole
swell of the North Sea, and of the Atlantic beyond it heaves
against these coasts, and is never quiet in the calmest
weather. The sun, which had now risen, gleamed against
the white tower of the light-house, and flashed back in
blinding rays from its lantern, as the boats pulled past it
into the Haaf.
They had now formed line abreast, at five or six hundred
yards distance, and were pulling leisurely along, keeping a
bright look out on every side. Calm as it was, the swells
were quite heavy enough to conceal the boats entirely from
each other as, from time to time, the huge mountains rolled
between them.
They had proceeded in this manner for about half an hour,
without seeing anything, except gulls and cormorants—which
latter, sitting in the water, and rising and falling on the
swells, had more than once deceived them,—when, suddenly,
Birger, who was on the extreme right, pointed with his
hand to the westward of their course: all eyes were turned
in that direction, and the line wheeled on Birger, as a pivot,
when a dozen or so, of black spots were seen on the side of
the swell, in the rare intervals when the boats and they
were both rising.
The centre boat, which was the Parson’s, pulled right on
the objects, while the flankers having increased their distance
to half a mile, pulled on some hundred yards in advance of
her.
Onward as they came, the black spots grew larger and
larger, and the distinct outlines of the ducks began to be distinguishable;
still they sat on the water, rising and falling
to the swell as unconcernedly as ever.
The flanking boats were already ahead of them, and the
Parson, with his long gun in his hand, had begun to calculate
his distance—which, out at sea, is particularly deceptive,—when,
with one accord, the dozen tails began to wriggle, and
at once the whole flock were under water, disappearing simultaneously,
and as if by signal.
EIDER DUCK SHOOTING.
The men, who, much to the Parson’s impatience, had been
pulling very leisurely indeed, now stretched out with all
their might, and as they shot across the spot lately occupied
by the ducks, marked the chain of air-bubbles, which tended
out to seaward. A signal conveyed this information to the
Captain’s boat, which pulled into the line to intercept them;
Birger, who was thus thrown out, closing in with all his
might, and the Parson following up the track—each stood
up as well as he could in the roll of the sea, and looked out
with all his eyes. Six, eight, ten minutes elapsed, and nothing
to be seen: it was impossible that the birds could be under
so long. At last, far to the rear of even Birger’s boat, twelve
black spots were seen rising and falling on the swell as unconcernedly
as they were at first. The ducks had headed
back under water, and the boats had pulled over them.
The same manœuvre was repeated, and with the same
result; the centre boat approached almost within firing
distance, when the twelve tails again wriggled simultaneously,
and the twelve bodies went under at once. This time, however,
they rose within shot of Birger’s boat, but before he
could get his gun to bear on them, they were under again.
This was precisely what was wanted; the only chance of
getting a shot, at this season of the year, is to make the birds
dive till they are exhausted: they are said not to duck the
flash like the divers—perhaps they do not, but, at all events,
they are generally under water long before the quickest
gunner can get a shot at them, and that, practically, comes to
the same thing.
The dive this time was a short one, though it carried them
out of shot, for the Captain, catching the line of their chain,
had pulled on their track, and headed them back to his
friends. This time they rose among the boats, and one or
two attempted a heavy lumbering flight, which was speedily
put a stop to by the fowling-pieces. The rest dispersed,
diving each his own way, and pursued by the boats independently.
The object of approaching in a crescent, is to prevent the
birds from doing this before they are too much exhausted to
dive far. A separated flock can seldom be marked, inasmuch
as it is more difficult to catch sight of one black spot than a
dozen; and besides, under such circumstances, the boats can
no longer act in concert. If a flock disperses early in the
chase, the chances are that not above one or two birds will
be secured; if kept pretty well together, not above as many
will escape.
It is a singular thing that eider ducks should be so unwilling
to take the wing in summer, for, though they rise
heavily, they are by no means bad flyers; but so long as they
have breath to dive, nothing will get them into the air; and
this peculiarity, which in ordinary weather is their preservation,
during the calms is their destruction.
The chase was now an ordinary affair, very like rat hunting:
the birds, confused and dispersed, kept poking their
heads up in all sorts of unexpected directions, and, as their
dives were now short, one or other of the quick and experienced
eyes was sure to detect them. As for missing, when
they were once within shot, it was impossible to miss a bird
nearly as big as a goose, and almost as heavy on the wing.
Ten out of the twelve were bagged, and two only were unaccounted
for, they having slipped away during the heat of the
chase. The boats then formed line-of-battle again, and
cruised on in search of other adventures.
Various little episodes occurred, in which one or two rare
sea-gulls and other birds were brought down, as they hovered
round the boats or crossed their course. Most gulls, indeed,
evince a great deal of curiosity in their disposition, and a
very dangerous quality this sometimes proves; but in this case
the murders were committed exclusively for the sake of Science
(who, by the way, must be a very cruel goddess), for the
fishermen were a great deal too much of sportsmen to indulge
in the vulgar gull-murder without object, which is called
sport by maritime cockneys. Three or four other flocks of
eider duck were sighted, and chased with various success;
some, taking the alarm in time, contrived to dive and swim
ahead of the boats, so as to elude them altogether; some,
startled by too rapid approach, dived before they had time
to draw together, and, breaking their order, appeared so many
scattered black spots in different directions, most of which
were necessarily lost while pursuing the others. But these
mishaps were not of frequent occurrence, and a good heap of
great ugly birds had already been collected, when, about
noon, a light cat’s-paw ruffled the surface, frosting it over
with little wavelets. At the time when this occurred it was
quite unexpected; the boats were following a chain of bubbles,
and all available eyes being fixed on them, no one was
looking out into the offing.
In a moment the trace was lost; the birds might have
risen, but the eye could no longer mark the clear, well-defined,
black dot. Ten minutes afterwards all was calm again,
but the flock were already safe.
“It is all over for to-day,” said Tom, looking anxiously
into the offing, where a narrow line of darker blue had
already begun to mark the hitherto undistinguishable boundary
of sea and sky; “here comes the breeze already.”
And slowly but surely the line crept down, first widening,
then throwing out ramifications before it; and then the
sleepy surface of the sea seemed to shudder, as if touched by
a cold breath; little wavelets began to ripple on the backs
of the long swells,—then light airs fanned the boats uncertainly,
and, at last, a steady breeze set in from the southward
and westward.
“Up stick, for the cod ground!” said Tom; “we are
only wasting time here.” And in a couple of minutes the
three boats were running away to the eastward, under their
English lugs, which, having hitherto served as tents, were
now for the first time applied to their legitimate use.
The end of the chase had left them five or six miles to
westward of the fjord’s mouth, and as far to seaward, while
the fishing-ground was a sunken island or shoal, a couple of
miles or so from the lighthouse near the outer range of
islands;—it is called a shoal, and possibly, for Norway, it is
a shoal; but there is not less than twenty fathoms on any
part of it.
The boats were slipping along through the smooth water,
as if they were going up and down the hills of an undulating
road; the breeze, though very light, was steady, and already
the features of the outer islands were growing distinct; and
Tom was looking out for the bearings of the shoal.
“This is all very well,” said the Captain, steering his boat
close to that of the Parson, “but I have had no breakfast.”
“Then why don’t you set about it; I am sure Marie has
not forgotten you.”
“Oh! I will not stand that; why should we make a toil of
pleasure? I mean to have a regular breakfast, and a pot of
hot coffee—why not? we have the whole day before us.”
“Well, I do not mind; hail Birger—there is a dissolute
island, as Jacob calls it, before us; we will boil your pot
there.”
Birger was always ready for his grub, or, indeed, for anything
else that was proposed; and the boats were made fast
to some rocky prominences on the lea of the island, with a
boat-keeper in each, to prevent them from grinding one
another to pieces.
Strange to say, many of these islets, which are mere rocks,
contain fresh water, some of them in pools in the rocks, but
many in regular springs, and in this particular case a very
respectable little streamlet trickled down a crevice of the
rock.
Every beach, rock, and islet on the Norwegian coast is
fringed with a layer of drift-wood, in pieces of every size,
from the great baulk which in England would be worth five
or six pounds down to the smallest splinters. The reason
of this is, that each river is continually floating down its
yearly freight of pines to the sea; these are caught by a
boom at the mouth,—that is to say, by a floating chain
of squared pine-stems,—but many dip under this and
escape, many escape when it is opened to let boats pass,
and occasionally a freshet breaks a link or draws a
staple, in which case the whole boom-full of timber floats
out to sea at once. All this is irrecoverably lost, for it is
illegal to pick up timber floating; and a very necessary law
this is, or the booms would find themselves broken much
oftener than they are. Nevertheless, the quantity of timber
lost annually in that way would pretty nearly supply all the
wants of all the English dockyards put together. But “it
is an ill wind that blows nobody any good;”—the wanderer
on the sea coast need never be without a fire to warm himself
by.
“I like this,” said the Captain, as he lay on his back
looking up to the sky, watching the blue smoke as it came
in wreaths above his head. “I should like to be a Robinson
Crusoe now, with a desolate island of my own, like this,
where the foot of man has never trod, and—Holloa! What
the devil have we got now?” he said, jumping up;—“how
came these little animals here?”
The little animals referred to were half a dozen children,
with rakes and hay-forks in their hands, who, attracted by
the smoke and possibly by the smell of the fried ham, were
peering over the edge of the cliff like so many sea-gulls.
“These are the savages, Mr. Crusoe,” said the Parson,
quietly; “but it really is a curious thing, so let us climb up
the cliff and see what they are about.”
The cliff was not difficult to scale, for the edges of the rocks
were like steps; and at the top a very unexpected scene
met their eye: a regular hay-field, with the hay in cocks,
and five or six men and women at work at it; they were
carrying their cocks on a sort of handbier down to their
boats,—great, broad, heavy affairs these were, borrowed
from the horse-ferry,—and upon these they were building
hay-stacks, intending to take them in tow of their whale-boats,
during the calm, and to bring them to the main land.
The form of the island was a sort of cup, of which the
cliffs round the edge were the highest parts, and the centre,
from having no drain, had formed a fresh-water lake with a
spongy, mossy border,—and this it was which supplied the
streamlet. The outer rim was bare rock, but between these
two extremes there was a boggy, black ring of vegetable
mould, which produced in great abundance a coarse, rank,
wiry grass, which the people were storing up for the winter,
in order to deceive the poor beasts into the idea that they
were eating hay. Poor as it was, they had come out a dozen
miles to sea to get it: their boats, four in number, including
the floating hay-stack, lay snugly in a little bay or inlet,
on the shoreward side, where the water was comparatively
quiet. They had evidently taken up their quarters on
the island, and established a regular bivouac till the work
should be finished, for there was a cooking place built up
with stones, and two or three of the girls were spreading
out to dry, in the hot sun, the clothes they had been washing
in the lake.
“Who would have expected such a marine pastoral,” said
Birger.
“Heaven forefend,” said the Parson, hastily, “we are mad
enough, some of us already; and Torkel is in love, which is
worse; we do not want to see Haafsfruer. Remember Duke
Magnus.”
“It was not the Haafsfru that took away the senses of
Duke Magnus,” said Torkel, “it was the curse of good Bishop
Brask, that rested on the family of Gustavus from the day
when he killed the two bishops and deceived our Bishop of
Trondhjem, who had given them sanctuary; the whole royal
family of Sweden have been crazy, more or less ever since,
till they turned them all out and put our good father Karl
Johann in their place.”
Birger shook his head sadly; he was too highly born himself,
and too aristocratic, not to feel a little shame at the idea
of a French common soldier superseding the old family of
Vasa, sprung, like himself, from Jarl Birger; but, for all that,
he could not help admiring the worthy old king who, by his
downright honesty and sincerity and his strict sense of duty,
had painfully worked his way against all prejudices of rank
and nationality, and had wound himself into the affections of
the people who had chosen him. Still he had a kindly feeling
for the old and glorious race, and though he could
neither deny the fact of the sacrilege and breach of faith of
Gustavus Vasa,—to which all the Norwegians, and many of
the Swedes also, attribute the hereditary madness of his family,—nor
indeed, the fact of the insanity itself, which was notorious
in Eric his successor, in Charles XII., and Gustavus IV.,
as well as the present exiled representative of the family,
yet he did not above half like Torkel’s allusion to it. The
Duke Magnus, whom they were speaking of, was the
youngest son of Gustavus Vasa, and was the first in whom
the symptoms of that disease about to be hereditary, had
manifested themselves.
The Parson, rather sympathising in his discomfiture,
gave a turn to the subject by quoting the Swedish version
of the Duke’s madness, to which he had himself alluded; for
the Swedes ascribe it to the love of a mermaid, the sight of
whom is invariably unlucky and is generally supposed to
produce insanity.
“Duke Magnus! Duke Magnus! bethink thee well,—
Answer me not so haughtily;
For if thou wilt not plight thee to me,
Thou shalt ever crazy be.
Duke Magnus! Duke Magnus! plight thee to me,
I pray you still so freely,—
Say me not nay, but yes, yes!”
“There is no harm in these mermaids,” said Tom, “for
they are as good and hard-working a set of girls as any in
Christiansand, but I trust we shall never meet with the real
ones; at least, not just before a voyage.”
“Why not,” said the Captain, “my principal reason for
coming here was the chance of seeing a mermaid in the only
country in which they are still to be met with. Have you
never seen one yourself, Tom?”
“No, and God grant I never may; they are not seen so
often now-a-days as they used to be, that is truth. If they
are to be seen at all,” he said, after a pause, “I must say
this is just the time and the weather for them; a calm, still,
sunny day, with a mist on the water; through this they
used often and often to be seen in old times, combing
their hair, or driving their milk-white cattle to feed on the
rock weed; sometimes, though not so often, they are seen at
night, coming and shivering round the fishermen’s fires, and
trying to entice away the young men and to get them to go
with them to their deep sea-caves; and those that they carry
off are never seen again in the upper world.[35] But mermaids
are never seen except in a still that comes before a storm,
and no one ever catches a fish for the first voyage after they
have seen them.”
“It is just the same with the Skogsfrue,” (the Lady of the
Forest,) said Torkel; “she is just as unlucky for us hunters,
and when she can get any young men to go with her, she
never lets them come back again. I have fancied more than
once that I have seen her through the smoke of my fire in
the wild fjeld, but she was not likely to catch me.”[36]
“Ah! there spoke the bridegroom elect,” said Tom, “but
I am not so sure of that either: I think, Torkel, I could
tell Fröken Lota more than you would like her to hear.”
“If you do, Tom, you deserve to be ducked,” said the
Captain, “and I will help to duck you with my own
hands.”
“He may tell what he likes, and what he can,” said
Torkel; “but it is quite true about the ill-luck in hunting
and fishing, which follow the sight of the Skogsfruer and
Haafsfruer both.”
“Well, we will prove that, after Middagsmad, and there,
in good time, goes Jacob’s shot, to let us know that all is
ready.”
The afternoon was spent in a lazy, lounging way; the
shoal, if shoal it can be called, where the bottom was
evidently jagged rock and the depth never less than twenty
fathoms, lay just off the island where they were, and the
boats had but to pull out a cable’s length to be in the very
best of the ground; but it is not a very exciting amusement
to be continually hauling in little fish about the size of
whiting, as fast as the lines could run down. It did not
take long to half fill the boats with that staple of Norwegian
life, rock cod: the hands of the fishermen, hardened with
forest work as they were, and tanned with the sun, were
scarcely calculated to stand the salt water and the constant
friction; the pleasure soon became a toil, and one by one
the boats sought the shore of the island.
The mermaids were soon characteristically employed in
splitting and laying out in the hot sun the baby cod, which
proved a very acceptable present; for this little fish, which
swarms in every Norwegian fjord, is among the poorer
families, the principal winter store, and in nine cases out of
ten the only sea stock besides rö kovringer (or rye biscuits)
which a vessel carries. A present, in the strict sense of the
word, it could hardly be called, for Tom fairly sold his fish,
and gravely bargained for them with the young ladies, at so
many kisses the hundred, excluding Torkel from all
competition, much to his disgust, by explaining to them
that as an engaged man he was entirely shut out from the
market.
The Parson and Birger were in the meanwhile seated in a
niche of the rock which formed a natural chaise-longue,
sedately smoking their pipes and watching the picturesque-looking
galliasses, which had endeavoured to work out
against the mid-day’s spurt of breeze that had by this time
entirely died away, and which now, with their great
sails hanging idly, like so many curtains from their yards and
gaffs, seemed, as well as the fishermen, to be basking and
enjoying themselves in the evening sun.
There was no sort of hurry to return. Christiansand had
few attractions, and excepting Marie (and no one besides
Birger could profit by that), Ullitz’s house had still fewer.
The luggage was all packed, and probably by this time on
board, their places taken, and their passage paid. Their
intention was, not to land again but to go along side at once.
In the meanwhile, a little tired with their morning’s work,
they watched with half-closed eyes the beautiful and peaceful
sunset and the glorious rising of the round full moon
that threw a path of light across the glassy waters.
“How beautiful!” said the Parson, who had just opened
his eyes.
“Yes, that is the work of the Ljus Alfar—Lys Alfir they
call them here,—the Elves of Light. All elves work in metals,
and these make a silver filagree so fine that it can only be
seen by moonlight on a background of water. It is the floor
of their ball-room, and if we were either of us good enough,
which it seems we are not, we should see the little fairy
beings dancing on it. When they are tired, they will go to
sleep under the leaves of the limes, which tree belongs to
them especially; the little spots of light which you see in its
foliage on a moonshiny night are their bright eyes, which
they have not yet closed in sleep.”
“Really,” said the Parson, “Prospero’s Isle ought to have
been placed on the coasts of Norway; it would seem that the
more scarce the visible inhabitants, the more numerous the
invisible.”
“O, yes, nature, nature abhors a vacuum, and these Alfar
are by far the most numerous of all the supernatural beings.
The White Elves, or Elves of Light, are seldom found out of
Norway and Sweden, but the Brown Elf you have in Scotland
as well. He works in metals of all sorts, though he delights
most in silver and gold. It is the Brown Elf that is the fitful
capricious being, which gives their meaning to the words elf
and elvish: these are the creatures which pinch untidy
maids, and drink up the milk, and light up their evening
candles as Wills’-o’-the-Wisp, and lead men into bogs and
marshes. When seen, they are dressed in brown jackets
with crimson binding, and wear brown caps on their heads,
whereas the Ljus Alfar wear always the helmet of the
foxglove, and are dressed in white. It is the Black Elves
that are malicious, though they often do good service to
men; they, too, work in metals, but it is generally in iron
and copper; they make arms and armour too, and sometimes
filagree work, like the Ljus Alfar, but theirs is always black.”
“Berlin iron?” suggested the Parson.
“Perhaps so; at all events the chain armour that they
make is a most valuable present, for, though no heavier than
filagree-work, or, as you say, Berlin iron, it will turn a sword
or a shot.”
“The disposition of the elf, then, varies with its colour.”
“Yes, but one characteristic runs through all—all are
capricious. All may benefit you, some may hurt you, but
none can be reckoned upon, and that peculiarity, together
with their universal horror of daylight, gives a key to their
allegorical origin.[37] These elves, or dwarfs, are the incarnation
of mining speculations, a very general form of gambling
both in Norway and Sweden. Mines are proverbially capricious;
it is impossible to tell how they may turn out. Occasionally
these spirits are beneficent in the highest degree,
and their protégés become suddenly rich, but this is never
to be relied on; the best are capricious, and the greater
number are tricksy; while some—though even these are now
and then capricious benefactors—are positively wicked and
malicious. There, now you have my theory of the alfs and
alfheim.
“And there is another allegory about them, with a good
Christian moral to it,” continued Birger, after a pause spent
in cherishing the fading embers of his pipe; “these alfs are
not baptised and have no part in salvation, but they are
capable of baptism under certain circumstances; they are
always anxious for it for themselves in their good moments,
but invariably so for their children, though those instances
in which they succeed are rare. The Icelandic family of
Gudmund are cursed with a disease peculiar to their race,
which originated—so the family tradition goes—in the curse
of an alf frue, whom one of their ancestors had deceived in
this particular. Andreas Gudmund had a child by an alf
frue: at her earnest request, he promised that it should be
taken in the church; and when the child was old enough, she
duly brought it to the churchyard wall, which was as far as
she might go herself, for no alf may enter consecrated
ground. The sound of the bells was torture to her, but she
bore it, and laid her child on the wall, with a golden cup as
an offering. But Gudmund, fearing the censures of the
Church and the reproaches of his friends, would not fulfil
his promise. The alf frue waited and waited, but the service
was over, and the parting bells began to ring again. So she
snatched up the child and vanished into her hill, and neither
she nor it were ever seen again under the light of day. But
from that time forward, the right hand of every Gudmund
is leprous, in token that their ancestor was forsworn.
“Now all this must be allegory; what should you say was
the meaning of the spirits of the mine being capable of salvation,
and being occasionally, though rarely, seen admitted into
the Church?”
“I suppose,” said the Parson, “it must be that wealth,
though a temptation to evil, may be used in God’s service,
and that it occasionally, though rarely, is so used. ‘Make
to yourselves friends of the mammon of unrighteousness,
that when ye fail they may receive you into everlasting
habitations.’”
“I think we may as well top our booms,” said the Captain,
whose cigar was finished; “the people will be all asleep on
board the steamer, and, besides—”
“Besides what?”
“Why we promised to let Marie have the eider down, and
Ullitz’s people will be in bed, too. You know we sail at
daybreak?”
“O-ho, that’s the business is it? Well, then, call the men
together, and see that they leave nothing behind them.”
That was soon done, for nothing had been landed beyond
the cooking and dining apparatus, and the boats dashed along
the still fjord, leaving behind them three rippling lines of
sparkling light, as if the Ljus Alfar were dancing in their
wakes.
In little more than an hour they were alongside the
steamer, where their whole travelling paraphernalia had
been stowed in their respective berths. Of these, the Parson
and Birger, tired with their long day’s work, were very
shortly the occupants; the Captain, more energetic, collected
the ducks, and, accompanied by Tom and Torkel, landed at
the wharf; but what Marie said, on receiving so large an accession
to her stores, and what the Captain said to her, and
how he contrived to say it, are points upon which history is
silent. Certain it is, that when the Parson awoke from his
first sleep, which was not till the steamer began to tumble
about on the swell outside, the Captain was snoring loudly
in the next berth, while the three attendants were equally
fast asleep on the cabin deck.
While this book was in the press, the author met with “Lloyd’s
Scandinavian Adventures,” in which there is not only a description,
but a print of eider duck shooting under sail. It would be presumptuous
in him to go against the experience of a sportsman who has
resided in these countries for more years than the author has months.
Possibly in the north, where the birds are less hunted, they may be less
cautious, and may allow a boat to approach them in a breeze. The
author can, however, write only from personal experience. The foregoing
chapter, so far as the facts are concerned, is merely a transcript
from his journal; and as far as his own experience goes, he would say,
that the setting in of a breeze sufficient to enable the lightest boat to
carry sail, would utterly preclude all chance of success in eider duck
hunting.
CHAPTER XVI. THE COASTING VOYAGE.
“Now launched once more, the inland sea
They furrow with fair augury.
“So brilliant was the landward view,
The ocean so serene;
Each puny wave in diamonds rolled
O’er the calm deep, where hues of gold
With azure strove, and green.
The hill, the vale, the tree, the tower,
Glowed with the tints of evening hour,
The beach was silver sheen.
“The wind breathed soft as lover’s sigh,
And, oft renewed, seemed oft to die,
With breathless pause between.
“O, who with speech of war and woes
Would wish to break the soft repose
Of such enchanting scene.”
Lord of the Isles.
If an Englishman can ever enter into the feelings of a
Neapolitan, and in any way connect the ideas of the dolce
far niente with those of enjoyment, if he can ever bend that
active, energetic mind of his, and that restless and industrious
Anglo-Saxon body, to realize the faintest conception
of the “paradise of rest,” in which the Buddhist places the
sum of his felicity, it will be on board ship, after breakfast,
on a calm, warm forenoon, and beyond the influence of the
Post Office.
That these words actually passed through the lips of the
Captain, and escaped, what Homer calls, the protection of
his teeth, we will not take upon ourselves to affirm—as
indolently he reclined on the paddle-box of the Gefjon
steamer, with his eyes shut, his muscles relaxed, his arms
and legs sprawling about in all directions, while the indolent
smoke of his cigar, that from time to time floated out lazily
from between his lips, afforded the only sign of life about
him; he seemed as if he was totally incapable of making
any such exertion—but certainly, these ideas passed through
his mind, and pictured themselves on the light grey clouds
that proceeded from his mouth.
Breakfast, so far as the English portion of the guests was
concerned, had long been over, and though some hardy
Norseman or persevering Swede was still lingering over the
scenes of his departed joys, and dallying with tempting
morsels of raw smoked salmon, or appetizing caviare, the
first great act of Northern daily life might be looked upon
as completed.
“You an artist,” said Birger, whose sketching tablet was
already slung round his neck, and who was looking round
him from the bridge, unable to choose, in such a panorama
of beauty, which of all the lovely views he should attempt
to transfer to his paper—“You an artist, and asleep among
scenes like these? you are not worthy of them; as if you
could not smoke your cigar while the rain was falling, and
sleep in the night-time.”
“I was not asleep,” said the Captain, lazily, “I was
thinking.”
“Thinking,” said Birger, “look round you, and you may
think that you are in fairy land, if fairy land, itself, has anything
half so lovely. Look at that beautiful lake, which we
are just opening, on the north—see how those wooded capes
partly intercept the view, with their soft outline of birch,
and that long reach of blue water dancing in the sunlight,
and that little island, a single spot of shade, with its three
picturesque fir trees, and that dark red rock that overhangs
it, with its iron stains of brown and yellow starting up from
among the bright green foliage; and look how the ash
fringes the edge of that precipice: get up, and if you are too
lazy to work, at least admire.”
Really, the scene was a scene of fairy land, such as, in our
most poetical of moments, we picture fairy land to be. The
steamer’s course lay among the groups of islands that fringe
the southern shore of Norway, and these, in that portion of
the chain, at least, which lies between Hellesund and Lyngör,
are, for the most part, bold rocks, clothed with every variety
of foliage which Norway produces, and, being sheltered from
the sweep of the sea breezes by the outer chain exhibit that
foliage in its fullest perfection. The idea usually connected
in our minds with Norwegian scenery, is that of wild and
desolate grandeur; and fully is that idea realized in the
mountains of the Hardanger and the Alpine deserts of the
Fille Fjeld—wild, rugged, treeless scenes of utter desolation,
almost beyond the limits of vegetable life. But it is far
otherwise with the coasts—nowhere is seen a colouring
half so vivid as among the sheltered islets of the southern
shores; the turf with which their glades are clothed is more
brilliantly green than anything that we have in England,
where the grass is invariably interspersed with weeds. Take
a square yard of any English turf whatever, and you will find
in it, from ten to twenty different sorts of plants, all of
which are, more or less, glaucous in their colouring, and
these, though at a little distance undistinguishable in their
forms, yet, blend their hues with the emerald green of the
grass, and present what, side by side with Norwegian turf,
would be but a soiled and faded picture. The foliage, too,
is far more bright and luxuriant than anything in England,
even in the interior of the country, but as different from our
wind-worn and frost-nipt sea-side greenery as can well be
conceived.
There is no such thing as early spring in those latitudes,
or those warm, sunny, deceitful days, which tempt forth the
young bud and leaflet, only to be pinched and shrivelled by
the April frosts. Week after week does stern winter bind
up all nature in its iron fetters; all is still, and cold, and dead;
and though the sun rises higher and higher, he seems to
shine without power; and though the days lengthen, and
the empire of night be invaded, winter still holds on, and
the snows look even whiter in the stronger light—the Norway
of April, is but the Norway of December: more bright
and more chilly—When all at once, and without preparation,
the scene is changed—the snows are gone, the ice is broken,
the leaves are already green, and the country is in the garb
of full-blown summer. Spring is a season unknown in
Norway.
The consequence of this is, that the leaf, which has not
begun to spring at all till the frost is thoroughly out of the
ground and the air free from chill, is never blackened, or
nipped, or dwarfed in its proportions, as it is in England,
and therefore preserves, through the short summer, a greenness
and depth of colouring which with us is unknown.
“There is a beautiful legend about this,” said Birger, as
he pointed out this peculiarity, “I do not believe in it myself,
altogether,” added he, smiling, as the recollection of the
Tellemarken legends and the sacrifice to Nyssen came
across his mind; “I will not vouch, myself, for more than
the allegory, but if we may trust to the fires of Walpurgis
Night, my countrymen believe it implicitly: ‘Iduna, the
goddess of youth, is among the Æsir, the guardian of the
apples of immortality—gods, like men, are subject to decay;
but whenever they feel any symptoms of it, they renovate
their existence by the apples of Iduna. The possession of
these apples was, as might be supposed, earnestly coveted
by the Hrimthursar, or Frost Giants, whose territories,
called Uttgard, surrounded on every side the sea that encompasses
the earth. Time was when the earth enjoyed a perpetual
spring, but Loki, who had not then forfeited his place
among the gods, attacking, one day, the giant Thjassi, the
chief of the Hrimthursar, whom he had taken for an eagle,
found his hands frozen to his plumage.
“‘Thjassi demanded as the price of his liberty that Iduna
should be betrayed into his hands: this Loki agreed to do,
and notwithstanding some secret misgivings, contrived to
perform his promise; and thus it was that the goddess of
youth, seduced beyond the influence of Asgard, was seized
upon by the eagle giant and imprisoned in his castle among
the rocks of eternal frost.
“‘The gods, who had lost their renovating principle, were
growing grey and wrinkled; the might of the Thunderer
was paralysed, and the wisdom of Odin himself, the father of
gods and men, was waning; the whole world was pining
for want of that principle of life which continually restored
the inevitable decay of nature; Loki himself felt the universal
loss which the world had sustained, and being as yet
not entirely lost to shame or callous to rebuke, set himself
in earnest to effect the deliverance of Iduna.
“‘This—having borrowed from Freya her falcon plumage—he
managed to effect, and was bringing back the goddess
to Asgard, under the guise of a swallow, the bird of spring,
when the eagle wings of Thjassi, who was rushing in pursuit,
darkened the air and blotted out half the sky. The
gods lighted fires round all the walls of Asgard to scare
away the pursuer, who fell exhausted in the flames and
perished under their vengeance.
“‘But Skadi, his daughter, determined to revenge her
father’s death, declared war on Asgard, and carried it on with
such success that the gods were fain to come to a compromise
with her, and she consented to peace on condition that
she should take for her husband any one of the gods she
should choose, and should be admitted into Asgard as an
equal. From that time forward the earth has felt the influence
of the Hrimthursar for a portion of the year; but
their power is at an end[38] on the anniversary of that day,
when Iduna is delivered from her captivity; and men
kindle their fires on Walpurgis Night, the 30th of April, in
memory of those which, kindled on the walls of Asgard, had
baffled and destroyed the chief of the Hrimthursar.’”[39]
“Ah! by the way, I saw them building up a great bonfire
as we rounded that point of land, coming out of Hellesund,”
said the Captain; “there was a heap a dozen feet
high, and they had put a whole boat upon the top of it.”
“Well, but this is not Walpurgis Night,” said the Parson;
“this is St. John’s Eve.”
“We do not know much about St. John’s Eve in these
parts,” said Birger, laughing. “I am afraid our legends are
a good deal more Pagan than Christian. That which you
saw was the ‘Bale-Fire,’ by which our people commemorate
the death of Baldur, and the boat was his ship, the Hringhorn.
You will see plenty more of them when the night
draws on;—every town and every village, and almost every
hut will have its bale-fire, and many of them its boat too.
It is a singular thing that Pagan legends should have so
much more hold on the minds of the people than anything
derived from their Christian history, but so it is.”
“Not at all singular,” said the Parson; “properly speaking,
Norway was never converted; it was conquered by a
Christian faction, and again it was conquered by a court
party. The people succumbed to force; but in their thoughts
and feelings—and therefore in their manners and customs—they
were what they had been in the days of the sea-kings;
and now their minds naturally revert to the time when their
country was most powerful.”
“I will give you a Christian legend, then,” said Captain
Hjelmar, the Swedish commander of the steamer, who had
been for some time talking with Birger on the bridge, and
now came forward with his hat in his hand, after the
manner of his country, and told his tale, very fluently, in a
queer sort of French. This was also after the manner of
his country, for, though that language is abominated in
Norway, in Sweden it is much affected by those who would
wish it to be supposed that they are habitués of the court;
and thus it was that though—as it afterwards turned out—Captain
Hjelmar could speak remarkably good English, he
preferred addressing Englishmen in remarkably bad French,
in order to show his court breeding.
“You see that tall rock,” said he, “that looks so black and
distant, in front of that green island?—that rock really is
one of the Hrimthursar of whom Lieutenant Birger has been
telling you; and when St. Olaf came to convert the Norwegians,
the giant, who had been bribed by Hakon the
Jarl, at the price of his young son Erling, whom he
sacrificed to him, waded into the sea, and put forth his
hand to stay the ship, that the saint should not approach
the shore: but the saint served a higher Power than the
gods of Asgard, and even as he stood, the giant froze into
stone; and there he stands to this day, as you see him, with
one arm advanced,—and there he will stand till the day of
Ragnarök, except that once in a hundred years, on Christmas
Eve, he is restored to life, in order to declare to the Hrimthursar
that on that day their power was broken for ever.”
“Well done, St. Olaf,” said the Captain; “I thought
that all his conversions were effected by the weight of his
battle-axe.”
“Why, you Englishmen acknowledge him as a saint as
well as we,” said Captain Hjelmar. “Have you not, in your
great City of London, a church dedicated to him? and is
there not also a place called Cripplegate?”
“There certainly are such places,” said the Parson, “but
what they have to do with one another, or with Norway, is
more than I can see.”
“There was a man in Walland, so great a cripple that he
was obliged to go on his hands and knees, and it was revealed
to him that if he should go to St. Olaf’s Church, in
London, he should be healed. How he got there, I cannot
tell you; but he did, and he was crawling along, and the
boys were laughing at him, as he asked them which was St.
Olaf’s Church, when a man, dressed in blue and carrying an
axe on his shoulder, said, ‘Come with me, for I have become
a countryman of yours.’ So he took up the cripple and
carried him through the streets, and placed him on the steps
of the church. Much difficulty had the poor man to crawl
up the steps; but when he arrived at the top he rose up
straight and whole, and walked to the altar to give thanks;
but the man with the battle-axe had vanished, and was never
seen more; and the people thought it was the blessed St.
Olaf himself, and they called the place where the cripple was
found ‘Cripplegate,’ and so they tell me it is called to this
day.”[40]
“Faith! I can answer for that part of the story myself,”
said the Captain; “the place is called Cripplegate, sure
enough, but I am afraid St. Olaf has long since ceased to
frequent it, for we have not heard of any miracles done
lately in those parts. But what is your story about the
‘bale-fires,’ Birger, for I see another in process of erection
on that cape?—that looks like a remarkably good boat they
are going to burn in it.”
“That legend, like most of those from the Eddas, is purely
allegorical, and, unlike most of them, is very intelligible.
Baldur, among the Æsir, is the Principle of Good, and
everything that is bright, or beautiful, or innocent, is dedicated
to him, and among other things, that part of the year
which begins at Walpurgis Night, when the reign of the frost
ceases, and ends at this day, the summer’s solstice—that is
to say, the whole of that time in which light and warmth
are getting the mastery over cold and darkness. These
commemorate the happy days of Asgard, before the Principle
of Evil had crept in; and had they only continued, the
whole world would have been by this time glowing in perpetual
light, and spring, and happiness.
“But Loki himself, one of the twelve of the principal Æsir,
became envious of this, and was jealous that all the good in
the world should be ascribed to Baldur; so he resolved to
kill him. This the Nornir revealed to Baldur in a vision,
and the goddess Freya took an oath of everything that
walked on the earth, or swam the waters, or flew in the air,
or grew from the ground, or was under it, that they would
not hurt Baldur; and then the gods would laugh at the revelation
of the Nornir, and would shoot at Baldur with
stones, and masses of iron, and thrust at him with their
spears, and cut at him with their swords and axes; but they
all passed him by for the oath’s sake, which all nature had
given.
“So Loki said to the mistletoe, ‘Thou dost neither run, nor
fly, nor swim, nor grow from the ground, nor lie under it;
there is no oath for thee.’ So he gathered the stem of the
mistletoe, and placed it in the hand of Hodur, the god of
Blindness, and said, ‘shoot, like the other gods, and I will
direct thy hand:’ and he shot, and Baldur fell dead in the
midst of the gods, and innocence departed from the earth;
and then the days which had hitherto been getting brighter
and brighter, so that darkness had began to fly from the face
of the earth, now began to close in again, and darkness began
to increase.
“In vain did Hermod, the brother of Baldur,[41] undertake
the journey to the realms of Hela. So much was accorded, that
if all nature would agree to mourn for the death of Baldur,
he should be restored to earth; but though everything did
so, as the Edda has it, ‘Men and animals, and earth, and
stones, and trees, and all metals, even as thou hast seen
everything weep when it comes forth from the frost into the
warm air, yet the giantess, Thaukt, who it is said was but
Loki in disguise, refused to weep.’
“‘Neither in life, nor yet in death,
Gave he me gladness.
Let Hell keep her prey!’
and Hell will keep her prey, as the Norna revealed to Odin,
till the day of restitution of all things; and then, when the
new sun shall enlighten the new earth, Baldur, restored from
Hell, and Hodur, no longer blind, shall reign for ever and
ever.[42]
“But in the mean time it was necessary to prepare the
funeral pyre of the god: his body was placed in his ship,
the Hringhorn, and the pile was built round it, and his wife,
Nanna, and his dwarf, Litur, and his father’s magic ring,
Dropsnir, and his horse, and all his accoutrements, were
placed on it, and amid a weeping concourse of gods and men,
and Hrimthursar, and dwarfs, and witches, the fire
was placed to it, and all nature mourned the departure of
innocence.
“And in memory of this, so soon as the days cease to
lengthen, and nature feels the loss of its original innocence,
and darkness begins to threaten the earth, men kindle their
fires in memory of the death of Baldur.”[43]
“Hallo! the Thousand take you! look where you are
steering,” shouted out Hjelmar, in Swedish, to the helmsman,
“are you going to run down the island?” And in truth it
did seem something like it, for the branches of the overhanging
trees rattled against the fore-topsail-yard, bringing down
a shower of leaves and twigs; and a projecting ash so nearly
brushed the paddle-box on which they were sitting, that the
Parson broke off a branch as they passed.
“Confound those fellows! they know the water is deep
here, and think they cannot shave the point too closely, I
suspect they wanted to astonish the passengers, and did not
see me among them.”
The point which they had rounded was just to the east,
from off Osterisö, at which place they had just touched; and
immediately afterwards they plunged into a deep, dark
chasm of a passage between the two islands, which looked
as if they had been split asunder by some sudden convulsion
of nature, so evidently the projections and indentations of
the opposite walls of rock seemed to fit into each other;
while far overhead the trees looked as if they were overarching
the chasm, and shutting out the light of day from
its recesses. The churning sound of the paddles, and the
hissing of the sea beneath their stroke sounded unnaturally
loud, and the two little pop-guns which the Gefjon carried
on her forecastle and took that opportunity for discharging,
rolled and echoed like a peal of thunder.
“There!” said Captain Hjelmar, as the steamer pushed her
way into daylight, and opened out a wide expanse no less
beautiful than those they had been passing through all the
morning; “there lies the strength of our coast; the Norwegian
navy consists principally of gun-boats, and these
dodge in and out among these islets, just as difficult to catch
as rabbits in a warren; the great lumbering cruiser of the
enemy watches in vain on the outside, like a terrier at the
rabbit’s hole, while the rabbit, meanwhile, has passed out by
a back door, and is taking his pleasure elsewhere.[44]
“In the days of the last war, I was a cadet on board the
Najaden frigate, the commodore on these coasts: I used to
be lent to the gun-boats, and capital fun we had with your
merchantmen; pretty profitable fun too, for we brought
them in by dozens. There were your big cruisers, every now
and then getting a crack at us, and picking off here and
there a clumsy fellow who let himself get caught outside,
but never doing us much harm. It was glorious fun, certainly,—at
first, I must say, I did not like firing at the old
English flag, that so many of our people had sailed under,
but after exchanging a few shots, and seeing a few of one’s
people knocked over, one soon learns to forget all that; and
I blazed away at the old red rag after a bit, just as readily as
I would at a rascally Russ.
“Your Captain Stuart put an end to all that, though, for
one while; and before we had recovered from the drubbing
he gave us, there was peace again, and no revenge to be had
for it. I was not sorry for the peace, though; it is not
natural to be fighting the English.”
“Aye,” said the Parson, “I have heard something about
Captain Stuart, of the Dictator; he got some credit for his
services in these waters.”
“And well he deserved it,” said Hjelmar; “he was a
thorough sailor, he knew what his ship could do, and he made
her do it. As for fighting, anybody will fight; but to run
such a chase as he did, requiring skill, and science, and nerve,
and firmness, as well as brute courage, which every man has,
and most beasts besides, is what very few men would have
moral courage to attempt, or seamanship enough to bring to
a successful termination.
“We used to laugh at the old Dictator; if a corvette could
not catch our gun-boats, it was not very likely a line-of-battle
ship would do the trick; for this water, for all it is so
deep and looks so open, is studded all over with pointed rocks
at a fathom or so under the surface; and some of these, not a
yard square at the top, any one of which would bring up a
gun brig, let alone a liner. Well, there was the Dictator
cruising about and doing nothing, as we thought; we did not
know that he was improving his charts, and getting bearings
and soundings; still less did we suspect that one of his
quartermasters had been the mate of a coasting jagt, and
knew the coast as well as we did. I have met the fellow
since; he got a boatswain’s rating for his services, and I think
he should have got something better.
“At that time I was on board the frigate. Old Hulm,
our commodore, said I was too wild to be trusted with a
separate command, and one morning we were dodging about
where we are now, with a steady breeze from the westward
that looked as if it would stand. There were the old
Dictator’s mast-heads, just where we had seen them twenty
times before, over the trees of Laxö,—that is, the island we
are just opening, where those salmon nets are hanging up to
dry.
“‘By the keel of Skidbladner, that sailed over dry land,’
says Hulm, ‘what is the fellow at now?’ as we opened the
point of the island, and the line-of-battle ship, that had been
lying with her main-topsail aback, squared away her yards
and dashed in after us. ‘O, by Thor and by Mjölner! if
that is your fun I will see what Norwegian rocks are made
of. Keep her away a couple of points, quartermaster; and
Mr. Sinklar (to the first lieutenant), turn the hands up.’ By
this time we were running away dead before it; the enemy,
who was all ready, had her studding-sails set on both sides,—it
was beautiful to see how smartly they went up, it was like a
bird unfolding her wings. ‘That’s a fine fellow,’ said Hulm;
‘it’s a pity, too, to sink him, but we must, so here goes.’
“Old Hulm, who was full of fight, all this time dodged
along under plain sail, just as if he did not care for that the big
fellow, and it is my opinion he would not have set his studding-sails
had the distance been less. You see that green point
just on the port bow, that one with the black stone lying off
it:—by the way, I do not see why we should not run the
very course ourselves. I have a passenger to Lyngör, and
we may just as well go that course as any other. Starboard
your helm, my man! that will do! meet her! keep her as she
goes.
“There, now, you begin to see that there is an opening to
the eastward and northward of that point. As soon as we
brought it abeam, down went our helm, and everything was
braced as sharp up as it would draw; for the channel winds, as
you see, to the southward of east. We thought to bother her,
but those fifties on two decks are so short, they come round
like tops. We were running free again to the eastward,
outside the channel. When she came abreast of the opening,
in came her studding-sails all at once, and there were her sails
standing like boards, and her yards braced up as sharp as
ours had been, and so much had he gained upon us, that as
her port broadside came to bear, three or four shots, just to
try the distance, came across the end of the island after us,
skipping and dancing over the seas.
“‘We must get Mjölner to speak to them,’ said old Hulm,
rubbing his hands and looking delighted. ‘I think she will
pitch her shot home now.’ Mjölner was a long French
eighteen, a very handsome brass gun, ornamented with
fleurs-de-lis, and all sorts of jigmarees; the private property
of the captain. Where he had picked it up, no one knew;—people
said it had been the Long Tom of a French pirate.
Old Hulm had called it Mjölner, which I suppose you know
is the name of Thor’s hammer; he was as fond of it as he
was of his wife, and always kept it on the quarter-deck,
under a tarpaulin, which he never took off except on
Sundays.
“It took some time to train the gun aft, and by this time
the line-of-battle ship had cleared the channel, and was
putting up her helm to follow us. The old skipper laid his
pet gun himself, and squinted, and squinted over her breech,
and elevated, and depressed, and trained to the right, and
trained to the left, till we thought he never meant to
twitch the lanyard at all. Crack went Mjölner. By this
time we had pretty nearly got the line-of-battle ship’s three
masts in one, and the shot striking just under the fore top-mast
cross-trees, cut the topsail tie and the jib halyards at
once; down rattled the yard, snapping the fore top gallant
sheets, out flew the top gallant sail, and away went the jib
dragging under her fore-foot; and up flew the ship herself
into the wind again, letting drive her broadside at us, as if
she had done it on purpose.
“The old skipper sent his steward for some bottles of true
Cognac, and gave the men a tot all round, to drink Mjölner’s
health.
“The enemy had brailed up her driver, and braced by her
after-sails, and got before the wind again in no time; and was
not much longer in bending on a new tie and splicing her
halyards; but we had got pretty well out of range now, and
were bobbing in and out among a cluster of rocks as thick
as porpoises. We had a man at the flying jib-boom as a
look-out, and a couple more on the spritsail yardarms (for
our ships had not whiskers in those days), and it was nothing
but ‘Breakers ahead!’ ‘Rock on the port bow!’ ‘A reef to
starboard!’ for the next quarter of an hour or twenty
minutes, enough to make one’s hair stand on end. A-ha!
thought I, when the last of them showed clear on the quarter,
this is the skipper’s trap; here’s where the old Dictator is
going to lay her bones! But she did not. She dodged
through every one of them every bit as well as we had done,
and there certainly was no doubt but that the distance between
us was a good deal decreased. These tubs of fifties
sail like a haystack on a wind, but before it they go like
Skidbladner herself.
“Old Hulm began to look grave; he had never dreamt of
her following him within the islands like that, and he began
to ‘smell a rat.’ The frigate had been caught on her very
worst point of sailing. We might easily have worked to
windward at first, but now she had got us fairly under her
lee, and if we tried to tack under her guns, she would have
stripped us of every rag of canvas we could show. Mjölner
came into play again, as well as the stern chasers on the main
deck, and to good purpose, too; but, on the other hand, the
English shot were flying like peas about us—and they did
not always fall short, either. Now and then there was a
rope shot away, or a man knocked over, or a gun capsized,—for,
at that distance, every shot that hit us pitched in upon
the deck and trundled forwards, hopping here and there off
the bulwarks without going through them, like so many
billiard balls.
“‘I will tell you what,’ says Hulm, ‘I will shove her
through the Lyngör Channel, there is a rock in the middle
that it will be as much as we can do to shave ourselves, and
if we do get past it, the chances are, that it will bring up
the liner; it is a desperate chance, but we must try it, and
if the Englishman does get through after us (which she will
not), we will reach out into the offing as close to the wind
as we can lie. Port your helm at once, Mr. Sinklar—drop
your main course, and haul out the driver.’
“Up she came to the wind again, but the main-sail, which
had been clewed up while we were running, had got a shot
through it, exactly where the bunt-line gathered it into a
bundle. The shot had gone through fold after fold of the
canvas, cutting the foot-rope also, and before the tack was
well hauled down, the sail had split from top to bottom; and
then, just as she drew in under cover of the land, the mizen
top-mast came clattering about our ears.
“It was all up for beating to windward, unless we could
shift our top-mast in time, and this the enemy was too
close upon us to allow us do; everything lay on the rock
bringing her up, and as I looked over the side as we passed,
the rugged points looked so close to our own bends, that
I thought they must have gone through; and the liner drew
more water than we did.
“All eyes were turned on the English ship, at least, on her
sails, for a point of land concealed her hull, and prevented
our firing; every moment we expected to see her sheets let
fly;—not a bit of it,—on she came as steadily as ever.
“Just at the village of Lyngör the channel turns at right
angles, and the islands that form it, being high, took the
wind out of our courses; while we had been running it had
drawn a little to the southward of west,—which, as we had
been off the wind all day, we had not taken notice of—as
we turned the angle it headed us. Whether, under any
circumstances, we could have fetched clear of the northern
cape is doubtful; without our mizen top-sail it was impossible,
for as the courses were becalmed, we really carried
nothing but head sail that would draw; and in fact, we could
scarcely look up for the cape, much less weather it.
“Down with the anchor! out boats, to lay out a warp
to spring her! we will fight it out here!’ said old Hulm.
But the Englishman had seen us over the land from his
mast-heads, and anchored by the stern, clewing up or letting
fly everything, and passing out his cable from his stern-port,
so as to check her way by degrees; when she came into
sight round the point, at not a cable’s length from us, she
had a cluster of men on her bowsprit with a hawser. On
she came, as if she was going to leap over the town, and
dropped her men on the houses, who, sliding down by the
dolphin-striker, leaped on shore and made fast with her
hawser forward, while her anchor brought her up abaft.
And there she lay, as steady as a land battery, and opened
her fire. The first broadside, loaded with grape, came
rattling among the boats that were laying out the warp; what
became of them I never heard; but the warp lay slack, and
the current drifted us end-on to the line-of-battle ship’s
broadside, and I felt our decks crumbling and splintering
under me as her shot tore them up.
“The next thing after that that I recollect, is a great
rough hand pulling me out of the water by my collar, and a
kindly English voice asking me if I was hurt. The smoke
was still lying on the water, and hanging in little clouds
upon the trees; but all that was to be seen of the old
Najaden, was the main and fore-top gallant and royal masts,
which, with their sails set, were still above water, and the
blue and yellow pennant over all. We had gone down with
our colours flying, and Captain Stuart would not have the
pennant struck,—‘we had fought gallantly for it,’ he said,
‘and we should keep it still.’
“Poor old Hulm, he was a fine fellow: there now! that is
the very spot of the action,” for by this time they had opened
the point of Lyngör, and had come in sight of the beautiful
little village. “Do you see that iron pillar on the point?
that is Captain Hulm’s monument.”
“He went down with his ship, then?”
“No, he did not; how he was saved I do not remember,
but he was saved, and rewarded too for his standing up to
the line-of-battle ship; for Father Karl is an old soldier,
and knows that a man often deserves as much praise for
being beat as for beating. The old fellow lived to a good old
age; that was his house, that white fronted one on the hill,
for Lyngör was his native place. It is not two years ago
that he was capsized in his little schooner and drowned.
There’s his monument, any how; and I always salute it,
whenever I pass this way:” and as they came abreast of the
point, the Gefjon’s swallow-tailed ensign dipped from her
peak, and her little pop-guns again testified their respect to
the old sailor’s memory.
CHAPTER XVII. GOTHEBORG.
“A cautious guest,
When he comes to his hostel,
Speaketh but little;
With his ears he listeneth,
With his eyes he looketh,—
Thus the wise learneth.
“No better burthen
Bears a man on his journey
Than observation:—
No worse provision
Bears a man on his journey
Than frequent drunkenness.”
High Song of Odin the Old.
Early rising is not pleasant at sea. Captain Basil Hall
may talk of the joyous morning watch if he likes,—but there
is nothing joyous in washing decks, and that is what most
ships are occupied with at that hour. The Parson did not make
his appearance on deck till after breakfast, and he was the
first of the party.
The steamer was now approaching the end of her voyage,
for the land, closing on both sides, showed the estuary of the
Gotha. Most of the party were not sorry for the conclusion
of the voyage, enjoyable as the earlier part of it had been;
for the steamer,—after coasting all the way to Christiania,
where the party had supplied themselves with carioles for
their land journey, which, with their wheels unshipped,
were stowed away snugly forward,—had taken her course,
southward, over the tumbling Skagarack—a part of the
world notorious for sea-sickness.
All the morning long, preparations had been going forward
for making a creditable appearance on arriving in port, and
the discomforts of the early-risers had been considerably increased
by a very liberal use of the holy-stone,—an amusement
which, as the men were still employed in blacking the
rigging, gave promise of an early repetition.
Slung from a block at the mainmast head was a small
triangular stage, made of three battens, on which sat a very
dirty individual with a pot of slush before him and a tarring-brush
in his hand, with which he was polishing off his
morning’s work on the shining mast.
Seated on the bitts below was a sturdy Norwegian, who,
as if disdaining the compromise usually adopted by the coasting
inhabitants, appeared in the caricature of a full-dressed
Tellemarker, with a strip of jacket like a child’s spencer, of
orange tawny wadmaal, great loose blue trousers with a
waistband over his shoulder blades, crimson braces, and two
strings of silver bullets dependent from the collars of a very
dirty shirt. He was caressing a particularly ugly dog, which
he called Garm,—an appellation which proved him to be
what in England would be called a fast man; it is much as
if an English young gentleman were to call his dog Satan.
He was haranguing, of course, on the vast superiority of
Norway to Sweden, and the infinite degradation which the
former country had received from the union of the crowns,—that
being not only the most favourite topic of Norwegian
declamation, but, in the present instance, at all events, the
most injudicious and unsuitable subject in which to exhibit
before so mixed an audience.
They behaved, however, exceedingly well, and rather
trotted him out, much to the disgust of Torkel, who had
sense enough to perceive what was going on, and would have
infinitely preferred their beating him: after vainly endeavouring
to draw his countrymen away, he had walked
forward, and was looking moodily over the bows.
“As for the Swedes,” said our judicious friend, “they are
nothing better than swindlers. I have, for my sins, to go
to Gotheborg every year, to lay in stores for the winter, and
I am sure to be cheated. We don’t let Jews land on our
shores, and I must go to Gotheborg to find them.”
“Well, but we have no Jews either.” said a bye-stander;
“they do not come to us, they go to the Free Towns.”
“You are all Jews; the real Jews don’t go to you, that
is very true, but it is because they know that the Gotheborgers
are hogs, and their law does not allow them to have
anything to do with unclean animals. Yes, you are all
swine together. Why, I tell you a Norwegian dog would
not touch anything Swedish. Come here, Garm!”—and he
pulled out of his pocket a bit of ham, evidently filched from
the breakfast table.
Here the Parson thought he detected a glance of intelligence
between Captain Hjelmar and the man at the mast-head,
who, much amused, had left off his work to listen.
“Come here, Garm!”—placing the tempting morsel on
the deck.
The dog wagged his tail, evidently preparing to seize it.
“Svenske!” said the man. The dog, who had been well
trained in this common trick, turned up his nose with apparent
disgust, and refused the meat.
“There!” said he, “I defy any Swede among you all to
make a true Norwegian dog eat a bit of it. Garm knows
what you all are, don’t you, Garm?”
Just then, by the merest accident in the world, the slush-kettle
got unhitched from the stage above his head, and came
tumbling over on the deck, and in its descent, taking the unfortunate
Norwegian on the nape of his neck as he was
leaning forward to caress his dog, pitched the whole of its
contents between his jacket collar and his back.
Captain Hjelmar rated the man severely for his carelessness
in spoiling his decks, and, ordering him off the stage,
directed the boatswain to put his name into the black list.
The man, however, did not seem much cast down about it,
but slid down the greasy mast with a broad grin on his
countenance, while the Norwegians carried their discomfited
companion forward to purify him; and Garm, profiting
by the confusion, proved a traitor to his country, by not only
swallowing down the Swedish ham, but also by licking up
as much as he could of the Swedish slush that had poured
from the head and shoulders of his master on the Swedish
deck.
The coast of Sweden and the banks of the Gotha below
the town, offer a striking contrast to the lovely scenery they
had left. There are the rocks and the fringing islets, as in
Norway, but here they are all flat, and most of them
absolutely bare. The coasts, too, where they could be seen,
exhibited ledges of rock and wastes of sand, with just enough
cultivation to make the desolateness painful, by connecting
it with the idea of people living there. Eider ducks would
dive before them, and wild-fowl in little knots would cross
their course, and hoopers would go trumpeting over their
heads, with their white wings reflecting the sun like silver,
and dippers of all sorts would play at hide-and-seek with the
waves, and seals would put up their bullet-heads to gaze at
them as they passed. The water is always beautiful when
the sun shines directly upon it; but the eye must not range
so far as the shore, for no sunshine could gild that.
There was a good deal of life, and traffic too, upon the
waters, for Gotheborg, the nearest port to the Free Towns
and to all foreign trade whatever, as well as the outlet of the
river navigation, may be considered the Liverpool of
Sweden.
As they proceeded the scenery slightly improved: the right
bank began to be dotted with houses and small villages,
wretched enough compared with the picturesque places on
the other end of the Skaggerack, but at all events showing
signs of life. At length they became continuous, and at a
couple of miles distance, the three churches of Gotheborg,
with the close cluster of houses, came into view. The anchor
was dropped opposite to the fishing suburb of Gammle
Hafvet, and a shore-going steamer came alongside to receive
the passengers; which steamer, much to the fishermen’s
delight, contained their old friend Moodie, who, on hearing
that the Norway packet had been signalized, had gone to
meet her on the chance of seeing them.
Moodie was a singular character,—a cadet of good family,
and brought up to no profession; he had been from his
childhood passionately fond of field sports, in all of which he
excelled. At an early age he had become his own master,
with a good education, some usage of the world, a handsome
person, a peculiarly active frame and sound constitution, and
two hundred a year, pour tout potage. Rightly judging
that England afforded no fitting scope for his peculiar talents,
without the imminent danger of a committal for poaching,
he had expatriated himself to Ireland; which country, he
had, in a sporting point of view, thoroughly studied, and
made himself completely master of its resources; he knew
when every river in the whole island came into season and
went out, and the best and cheapest way of transferring self
and encumbrances from one point to another. He knew the
times at which the woodcocks and the snipes would arrive,
and the out-of-the-way places at which they may be safely
shot; he could give a catalogue raisonnée of all the wayside
public-houses in sporting localities, and was hand-in-glove
with half the disreputable squireens of Ireland. Certainly,
he bagged more grouse annually than many a man
who pays a rent of five or six hundred a year for the privilege
of supplying the London markets.
It was on the Erne that the fishermen had met him, and
Moodie being an extremely well-informed and gentleman-like
man, besides being a thorough sportsman, they had struck
up with him what might be called an intimate acquaintance,
which, now that they met as Englishmen on a foreign land,
might be considered an intimate friendship.
It was the railroads, and the consequent invasion of the
cockneys, which had expatriated Moodie from his adopted
country; people began to preserve, too, and to let their
fishing and shooting-grounds; even the Erne was not what
it had been, and Moodie, whose whole belongings, besides
his live stock in the shape of dogs, were contained in
two portmanteaus and as many gun-cases, packed them,
and one morning found himself standing on the quay of
Gotheborg.
If, instead of the coast of Sweden, it had been the coast
of the Cannibal Islands, Moodie would soon have found
himself at home; but here he had letters of introduction, and
Karl Johann, who had a high opinion of the English, was
very anxious to get an infusion of English blood among his
Swedes. Moodie’s peculiar talents, too, which in England
might have consigned him to the county jail, in Sweden
found their legitimate outlet; he soon found a beautiful
little country house on the banks of the Gotha; had no
difficulty in renting the exclusive right of fishing for some
miles above and below it; paid the rent and all expenses of
boats and boatmen, and put a handsome sum into his pocket
besides, by supplying Gotheborg with lake salmon (salmo
ferox). He then got the rangership of a royal forest, by
which he kept his numerous hangers-on in what he called
butcher’s meat, and traded with the Zoological Gardens and
private collections in the wild beasts and birds of the country,
by means of which traffic, he had furnished himself with the
choicest collection of sporting fire-arms and fishing tackle
to be found in the north. Besides which, Moodie had
become a public character. Sweden has its wild beasts as
well as its ordinary game,—he who destroys a wolf or a
bear is a public benefactor, and Moodie had a peculiar
talent for tracking them. Every farmer within a hundred
miles of Gäddebäck would pull off his hat to him; but that is
not saying much, for a Swede is always pulling off his hat,
and if he had nothing else to pull it off to he would be
making his salaams to the cows and sheep.
It was not a great deal of Gotheborg the fishermen saw
that evening; their experience of the country was confined
to a march by the shortest road from the landing place to
Todd’s Hotel, and their subsequent view to a sort of Dutch
interior, of which pipes, tobacco, bottles, glasses, juniper
beer of native manufacture, and thin vinous importations
from Bordeaux, made up the accessories; but the fishermen
had much to inquire after, and Moodie had much to tell.
Breakfast, always a luxurious meal in the north, at least, in
summer time, on account of the quantities of berries and the
abundant supply of cream, brought a visitor,—a young artillery
officer, a friend of Birger, by name Dahlgren, and by
rank Count, who had his quarters in the inn,—for the
Swedish officers have no mess like ours, but lodge permanently
in the hotels, paying a fixed sum per week, and
dining at the table d’hôte. Like Birger, he was a painter,
but whereas the guardsman exercised his art simply as an
amateur, or at most, in the public service of his country, his
friend, Count as he was, exercised his as a profession, and as a
means of eking out his scanty pay.
There would be a grand review that afternoon, he said,
and it would be well worth seeing, for Gotheborg is the
great artillery station of Sweden, and the Commander-in-Chief,
with his staff, who were on a tour of inspection, had
arrived by the canal steamer from the new fortress of Wanås,
on the Wetter.
This piece of information, which the artilleryman detailed
with great glee, was received by Birger with a wry countenance,
as certain to detain him within doors as long as the
General remained at Gotheborg,—for it will be remembered
he was at that very time unable to join his regiment on account
of pressing family affairs.
This did not affect the others, so, leaving their friend to
amuse himself as best he might, by improving his sketches
or watching the magpies from the window, they started,
under the pilotage of their new ally, for a tour of observation.
Whatever else Gotheborg is famous for, certainly the
most remarkable thing in it is its flocks of magpies,—birds
which, in our country, are extremely wild, and by no means
fond of town life. Gregarious, in the proper sense of the
term, they are not, but they are as numerous as sparrows in
London, very nearly as tame, and much more impudent.
This by no means arises from any affection which the inhabitants
have for the bird—for magpies are ugly and mischievous
all the world over, and quite as mischievous in Gotheborg
as anywhere else,—but from a popular superstition they are
under the especial protection of the devil—and truly the devil
cares for his own: they build their nests and bring up their
young under the very noses of the schoolboys; they feed
them with stolen goods, filched from every kitchen,—and
often and often, among the delicacies of the season, they
regale them with spring chicken of their own killing. But no
one molests a magpie; Heaven only knows what would be
the consequences of killing one; and, though Government has
set a price on their heads, they sleep in safety, under the
protection of their great master.
The town ought to be handsome, but it is not; the description
would look well on paper. A great broad canal
through the centre, with quays all the way on both sides, as
at Dublin, only twice as broad, forming a very wide street;
and from this five or six similar canals, similarly furnished
with quays and streets, branch off at right angles. The banks
of all these canals are planted with trees, and arranged as
shaded footways. All this sounds as if the place ought to be
pretty, but, though every word of this is true, the reality falls
far short of the ideas it conveys. The houses are mean
and low, and, the windows being flush with the sides, the
whole appearance is pasteboard-like and unsubstantial, which
the reality is not. The Swedes build their wooden houses
in very good taste, and they harmonise very well with
the scenery, but they should stick to that—ne sutor ultra
crepidam: let not the carpenter aspire to be a mason.
Every house, large or small, in town or in country, has very
large panes of glass,—the very cabins have them; the glass
is as bad as bad can be, full of flaws and waves, and very
thin besides; even this produces a bad effect; besides, it is
impossible to admire the finest of towns, when walking over
streets so roughly paved that eyes and thoughts must be continually
directed towards the footing.
There is a capital market, and the canals bring the hay,
and the fuel, and all other heavy articles from the interior,
to the very doors of the houses. It was singular to see
floating haystacks and faggot piles—for so they looked, the
hulls of the boats being completely hidden by their freight,—towed
up in strings by the little steam-tugs, and moored to
the quays. If Gotheborg is not a prosperous town, Sweden
will not support one at all, for it is impossible for any
situation to be more favourable for trade. The river itself
forms a secure harbour, its only fault being that vessels of
heavy draught cannot anchor within a mile of the town.
The interior water communications comprehend all the midland
provinces, and the landing and shipping of goods is as
easy as art can make it; besides, it is the outermost port of
the whole country.
The markets, certainly, are well supplied, especially
that of fish, both salt and fresh-water. Beef and mutton
are among its articles of export to the southern coasts
of Norway, and there is not a bad display of vegetables
for so northern a country. The quantities of spinach which
are seen everywhere, and which mingle with every dish,
rather surprise the traveller, till he finds out that the sandhills
which he has seen on each side of him all the way up
the river, are covered with it, growing wild—wild as it is,
English garden spinach is not at all better flavoured. Singularly
enough, melons are plentiful; one would almost as soon
expect to meet with pines in these latitudes,—but the short
summer of Sweden is peculiarly favourable for them.
The trade of the place does not look very lively, and the
bustle in the streets is nothing at all like that of Bristol or
Liverpool. What little stir there was just then, seemed to
be rather military than mercantile. Dirty, slovenly-looking
artillerymen, with ugly blue and yellow uniforms, putting
one disagreeably in mind of the Edinburgh Review; overalls
patched extensively with leather that terribly wanted the
blacking-brush; and dingy steel scabbards, that did not
know what emery-stone was, were clanking about the streets,
followed by little crowds; and groups of officers were standing
at the doors of the hotels and lodging-houses. Evidently a
review was not an everyday business.
The Parson and Captain were soon deserted by their military
cicerone, who left them, to prepare for his part in the
military display, having directed them into the street that
leads to the scene of action. This was a large meadow, or
small park, to the east of the town, rather a pretty promenade,
enclosed with trees, which was now crowded with
people. Towns, especially trading towns, are not remarkable
for costume. The people, seeing such a variety of foreigners,
get to be citizens of the world themselves, and so lose their
nationalities. But there were a few fancy dresses, too, from
the country round; short round corduroy jackets, sometimes
a sort of tartan, too, but which invariably had rows of buttons
sewed as thick together as they could stand. Among the
women, a handkerchief was frequently tied round the head
instead of a bonnet; but every one, almost, carried his or her
bunch of flowers, an article which abounded in the markets;
these were very often carried in the hats, or stuck through
the knots of the kerchiefs.
And now the bugles of the artillery were heard, and the
rumbling of wheels, and the trampling of horses, as battery
after battery rolled into the park. The Swedes call them
horse artillery, but they are, in reality, only field batteries;
for of horse artillery, properly so called, that most beautiful of
military toys, they have none. Their guns, twelve pounders,
are drawn by six horses, each of which carries a man. In
bringing the guns into action, the off-man of each pair dismounted,
and these were joined by three others, whose seat
was on the limbers. These are hardly men enough to work
so heavy a gun, allowing for the casualties of action, but on
emergencies the driver of the middle pair also lends his
services.
There was nothing showy in the review, the manœuvres
of which were confined to advancing and retreating in line,
and forming column, and deploying into line again; but all
at a foot’s pace, or at a very slow trot. They had no idea of
changing front, or retreating in echéllon, or any of those
showy manœuvres in which the prolong is used. In fact, so
far as display went, it was a very slow affair indeed; the
men, however, seemed to know their work pretty well, and
though individually dirty and slovenly and without the well
set up carriage of our own soldiers, they bore, as a body,
rather a soldier-like appearance. They ride very forward,
absolutely on the horse’s withers—this is said to give the
horse greater facility of draught; and it may, but at all
events, it gives a most awkward and unsoldier-like appearance
to the men, which is in no way improved by the
manner in which they carry their swords—the elbows sticking
out at right angles to the body, and their knuckles thrust
into their sides, as if they had a pain in their ribs.
The guns seemed to be very much under-horsed, but
perhaps this is more apparent than real; for the Swedish
horses, though small, are strong and wiry, and their enclosed
country is not only not calculated for horse artillery
manœuvres, but does not admit of them. The chances are,
that a whole campaign might be fought in Sweden without
the artillery being required to move faster than at a foot-pace.
So far as numbers went, they mustered at least three
times as many guns as can be got together at Woolwich for
love or money at the best of times.
The army of Sweden is very curiously constituted, and it
is not easy to reckon up its effective strength. The regular
army does not consist of above 10,000 men; the guards—than
which no finer body of men is to be seen in Europe,—the
artillery, and three or four garrison regiments, who are
stationed at Wanås, in the interior, and Carlscrona, and one
or two other fortresses on the coast.
The militia, which is called Beväring, consists of every
man in the country between the ages of twenty and twenty-five;
these have regular days of exercise, generally Sunday
evenings in the summer, which is with them by no means a
popular arrangement, for those are the hours which the
ingenuous youths of Sweden devote to dancing, an amusement
of which they are passionately fond. This really is a
much more effective force than it seems, for the Swedes are
natural soldiers; besides which, it gives them all a habit of
drill, which might be rendered serviceable in case of invasion;
for, as every man in the country has been drilled in his
youth, they are all capable of immediately taking their
places in the ranks of the regular regiments. It would be a
very great improvement if they were drilled to ball practice,
like the Swiss and Tyrolese, for a Swede is terribly clumsy
with fire-arms, and on a skal, is just as likely to shoot himself
or his comrade, as a bear or a wolf.
But the strength of the Swedish army lies in its Indelta,
a description of force peculiar to that country—unless the
military colonies of Russia be considered a parallel case.
The crown possesses large estates, and these are leased
out, like the knight’s fees in old times, on man service, and
for that purpose are divided into hemmans, each hemman
furnishing a man, who has a portion of it by way of pay—the
hemman is not a measure of size, but of produce. Fertile
hemmans are small, waste or barren hemmans are large; and
thus it often happens, when a crown estate has been cleared
and brought into cultivation, though quite as productive as
some other estate, it furnishes a much smaller quota.
The holder of such a property, is then bound to serve
himself, if capable, and to furnish a certain number of
efficient soldiers, horse or foot, according to the size of his
estate. The whole country is divided into military provinces,
under colonels; these are subdivided into districts, under
captains, with their proper complement of subaltern and
non-commissioned officers, who are paid by the tenure of
certain reserved farms, which they hold in virtue of their
commissions.
Whenever the Indelta is called out—and a third of them
assemble in camp every summer,—the crown tenants of the
estates that furnished it are bound, at their own expense, to
cultivate the farms which the soldiers hold, and to return to
them their lands, when they are dismissed from active service,
in the same condition in which they took charge of them,
accounting for any sale of produce which they may have
made.
The service of the Indelta is very popular, and for every
vacancy there are at least half a dozen candidates. No
application is ever received without written testimonials from
the clergyman of the applicant’s parish, and no man is ever
admitted who has been convicted of any crime. Many of
these crown holdings have been purchased and re-purchased,
and transferred from hand to hand so often, that they are
regarded as a sort of private property, and their tenants very
often complain of being burthened to a greater extent than
their countrymen. This, however, is as unreasonable as that
a tenant should complain that in paying rent he is not on
an equality with the proprietor in fee. The sale of crown
lands is merely the transference of a beneficial lease.
So far as the morals of the people are concerned, the
patronage of the Indelta, and the reward it holds to good
conduct, act very beneficially; as to the efficacy of the force,
the wars of Gustavus Adolphus and of Charles XII., may
form a pretty fair criterion. The strength of this contingent
to the Swedish army, may be reckoned at 20,000
infantry, and 5,000 cavalry, and has the advantage of being
always available.
“You may come out of your hole now, Birger,” said his
friend, the artilleryman, who, arriving hot and dusty from
the barracks, was lounging down the streets, with his jacket
open and his stiff military stock in his hand, a free and easy
style of dress, in which an English officer would think it
just impossible to put his nose beyond the barrack gates.
“The General and all his staff are gone in a body to Arfwedsen’s
Villa, so you are safe for to-day.”
“And for to-morrow, too,” said Birger, “for the steamer
starts for Stockholm to-morrow morning early; while you
were amusing yourselves, I have been doing business. As soon
as I heard from the sound of your guns that the General was
safe, I stepped down to the quay, went on board the Daniel
Thunberg, and engaged two cabins—we will toss up who is
to have the cabin to himself.”
“Why, where’s Moodie?”
“Moodie!” said Birger, taking out his watch, “why, by
this time Moodie is at Agnesberg.”
“And where is Agnesberg?”
“The first stage to Trollhättan. He had transacted his
business, and transferred his herd of deer to the Zoological
men before we came, so he said he would start at once for
Gäddebäck, and prepare to receive us. I rather think there
is some bear hunting afoot, for the Stockholm post came in
while you were at the review, and I am sure I recognised
Bjornstjerna’s great splash of a seal, and his scratchy hand.
At all events, off started Moodie.”
“Why! is it not necessary to lay a forebud.”
“Not on the main road; there is traffic enough between
this and Wenersburg to keep holl-horses (retained horses)
always at the stations. He will be at Gäddebäck, I will
venture to say, before daybreak.”
“And when do we sail?”
“At ten to-morrow; we can see the falls and the canal
before nightfall, and sleep at Trollhättan to-morrow night;
and on the following morning Moodie is to send his boat for
us. And now for dinner, I have ordered it at the Prinds
Karl; Todd’s is a very good house to sleep at, and not bad
for breakfast, but I want to shew you what Swedish
cookery is, as far as you can get any worth eating in the
provinces.”
“Well, it is very true, as you will confess, if ever I get you
to Stockholm; is it not, Count Dahlgren?” addressing the
artillery officer. “You dine with us, of course; in with you,
and wash off the stains of war, which are pretty visible at
present. You have not more time than you know what to
do with. If we do sail to-morrow, we will make a night of it
to-night.”
“Like our first night at Mosse Eurd?”
“No, hang it, no; not so bad as that;—that was all very
well for the men, but we do not make such beasts of ourselves
in this country. I have told them, though, to put
plenty of champagne in ice, and to provide the best claret
they have got; we will be merry—and wise, if possible.”
“And if not possible?”
“Why, then, the merry without the wise.”
Whether mirth, or wisdom, or a judicious mixture of the
two prevailed that evening at the Prinds Karl, need not be
related; but the next morning saw the party on the clean
white deck of the elegant little river steamer Daniel Thunberg,
dashing along its broad, still stream, between rows of feathering
rushes, sometimes so tall as to eclipse the still flat and
uninteresting country beyond them. Ducks there were,
in such numbers, that the fishermen half repented their
engagement with Moodie; and Jacob, to whom every spot
was familiar, kept up an incessant chorus of regrets, pointing
out here a spot where he had made a fortune with the
långref, having hauled up a three-pound eel on every hook,—there
a corner where he had caught a pike so big he could
not lift it into the boat, but was obliged to tow it astern all
the way to Gotheborg,—and there a bay in the rushes in
which he had bagged five swans, eight geese, and more ducks
than he could count, at a single shot,—with as many more
stories, equally veracious, as he could get people to listen to;
and in fact, could be stopped by nothing short of that grand
event in a Swedish day, dinner, which, announced by
the steamer’s bell, was served with great magnificence in the
saloon.
These little steamers form as luxurious a conveyance as
can be imagined; they are galley-built, that is to say, the
quarter deck is two or three feet higher than the waist; the
after part is divided into ten or twelve little private cabins,
each possessing its own port, and each furnished with its
two sofas and its table; the fore part contains the saloon,
or common cabin. They do not carry very powerful engines,
but they burn wood, and are as clean and as free from disagreeable
smells as if they were sailing vessels.
At the locks of Lilla Edet, where a reef comes across the
river, forming a low but very picturesque fall, the fine
scenery commences. The fall itself is singular. The water
of the Gotha, fresh from the great lake of Wenern, which
acts as an enormous cesspool, is as clear and bright as
that of the Torjedahl, but with ten times its volume; it
slips off the smooth ledge of rocks as if it were falling over a
step; the ledge off which it slips is seen through it as distinctly
as if it were enclosed in a glass case, for the water
preserves its unbroken transparency till it reaches the bottom,
and then spreads out into a broad border of foam, like a fan
with swansdown fringe.
From this point, a very perceptible difference was remarkable
in the run of the current, which retarded considerably
the way of the steamer through the belt of highlands which
separates the low tract bordering the sea-coast from the
higher level of Wenersborglan; and it was not till past five,
that the low rumbling, earth-shaking sound of the great
falls began to tremble on the ear.
CHAPTER XVIII. TROLLHÄTTAN.
“Gefjon drew from Gylfi
Rich stored-up treasure,—
The land she joined to Denmark.
Four heads and eight eyes bearing,
While hot sweat trickled down them,
The oxen dragged the reft mass
Which forms this winsome island.”
Skald Bragi the Old.
“It was a wondrous sight to see
Topmast and pennon glitter free,
High raised above the greenwood tree—
As on dry land the galley moves,
By cliff and copse and alder groves.”
Lord of the Isles.
“Birger, what is the Swedish for ‘Go to the devil?’ I
cannot make these little brutes of boys understand me,”
shouted the Captain, who was not in the best of humours,
having already made half a dozen slips on very dangerous
ground. In all Sweden, there is not a more slippery bit of
turf than that which clothes the cliffs and highlands of
Trollhättan. The bank along which he was scrambling to
get a good view of the falls rounded itself off gradually,
getting more and more out of the horizontal and into the
vertical at every step, till at last it plunged sheer into the
foaming turn-hole of the middle fall, in which the very best
of swimmers would have had no more advantage over the
very worst than that of keeping his head above water till
he went down the third leap, and got knocked to pieces on
the rocks below. There was not a root to hold on by
stronger than those of the dwarf cranberries, whose smooth
leaves only aided the natural slipperiness. Heather is not common
anywhere in Sweden; but here there was quite enough
not only to give a purple brown hue to the scenery, but also
to add to the difficulty of keeping one’s feet, in a way which
any one who has walked the side of a highland hill in very
dry weather will fully be able to appreciate. It was very
irritating when one at last had attained a point of view—after
traversing what to a leather-shod stranger was really
a dangerous path—to have the current of one’s thoughts interrupted
by a parcel of bare-footed urchins, who came
frolicking over the very same ground, and insisting that the
visitor should see everything, from the orthodox point of view
set down by Murray, and from no other whatever, and moreover
should pay for being tormented and unpoeticised, the
regulated number of skillings.
The rush of waters was certainly very grand and very
magnificent. Much has been written about it in books of
travels, and much more in the album kept at the inn for the
purpose of enshrining and transmitting to posterity the
extasies of successive generations of travellers; but the
Parson, who ought to have been lost in admiration—to his
shame be it spoken—appeared chiefly solicitous to procure
bait, which he and Torkel had been diligently hunting for
in the shallows. It was not without considerable difficulty
that a trout sufficiently small to fit the snap-hooks of the
trolling-litch could be found, and when it was found, we are
happy to say, it met with no more success than it deserved;
for though at very considerable personal risk he tried as
much of the rushing water as his longest trolling-rod would
command, he was not rewarded with a single run.
But for all that, there certainly are fish in all the pools
about these tremendous falls, and that he had the opportunity
of satisfying himself about before he left off; for
just as he was giving it up for a bad job, Torkel, who had
an eye for a fish like that of a sea-eagle, caught sight of
something alive that had poked itself into one of the runs
from the saw-mills, a place not three feet across; and unscrewing
the gaff which he was carrying, and substituting
for it the five-pronged spear, he plunged it into the water
and brought out a black trout (salmo ferox) of ten pounds
weight at the end of it. From the nature of the water it
is impossible that trout can abound at Trollhättan in any
great numbers. The river has scarcely any tributaries below
the falls; and as it is absolutely impossible for a fish to surmount
them, the breeding ground is very limited; but, on
the other hand, the clearness of the water is precisely that
which best suits the constitution of a trout; bleak and
gwinead, which form their principal food, are very plentiful,
and from the depth of the water, there is scarcely any limit
to the growth of the fish; a man, who is satisfied to catch
now and then a monster, will do very well at Trollhättan,
and in the course of the season will have a few stories to tell,
which in England will be set down as altogether fabulous,—but
it does not answer for a day’s fishing. The traveller
may as well make up his mind to admire the scenery at his
leisure,—it will not answer his purpose to wet a line there.
The Parson having convinced himself of this, and, moreover,
having had one or two very narrow escapes, reeled up
his line and contentedly sought out his friends, who, by
this time, had succeeded in explaining to the swarms of
guides that their services were not required, and were sitting
on a heathery bank feathered with birch, exactly in front of
the middle falls, comfortably eating gooseberries, which grow
there in such plenty that, though the place swarms with
children—a whole regiment of soldiers with their wives and
families being hutted in the vicinity,—the bushes were still
full of them.
“That is a curious cave,” said the Captain, pointing to a
hole which seemed to enter the face of the precipitous rock
by the side of the great fall, and to penetrate it for some
distance; at least, the depth was sufficiently great to be lost
in darkness; the bottom of it was on a level with the water,
and was not accessible without a boat.
“That!” said Birger, “that is Polheim’s grave.”
“Do you mean to say that any man was buried there?”
“Not the man himself, only the best part of a man—his
reputation. Polheim was an engineer, and when the first
idea of making a practicable communication between the
Wener and the sea was entertained, he attempted to carry
it into effect by burrowing out that hole. If he had succeeded
in boring through the rock, he would have accomplished
the largest jet d’eau in the world. However, Government
were wise enough to put a stop to it, and to employ
a cleverer man. Polheim died—it is said of grief,—his body
buried at Wenersborg; what became of his soul, I will not
take upon me to say; but as for his reputation, there is no
doubt about that—that lies buried there.”
“That canal certainly is a wonderful work for a country
like yours, where the extent of land is so great, and the produce
from it so small.”
“It would have been more wonderful still,” said Birger,
“for it would have been done when the country was still
poorer, had it not been for the Reformation.”
“The Reformation!” said the Captain. “What, in the
name of Tenterden Steeple and the Goodwin Sands, has the
Reformation to do with the Gotha Canal?”
“Not much with the canal, but a good deal with Bishop
Brask who planned it—the man whom Geijer calls, and
very deservedly, ‘the friend of liberty, and the upright
friend of his country.’ The present canal, nearly as you see
it now, was sketched out in a letter still preserved, which
was written in the year 1526, by the Bishop, to stout old
Thurè Jensen, whom men called King of East Gothland—that
gallant old fellow, who, when he saw how the Diet of
Westeras was going, struck up his drums and marched forth,
swearing that no man in Sweden should make him heathen,
Lutheran, or heretic. Before the Bishop’s scheme could be
converted into a reality, stout old Thurè was a headless
corpse, and Brask a voluntary exile. But the good which
men do, lives after them. Gustavus, who had always
respected Brask, and would fain have retained him in his See
of Linköping, carried out many of his plans—and in the
course of time this, as you see, was carried out too, though
it was not for a hundred years or more after the successful
king and the deprived bishop had gone to their respective
accounts.”
“Jacob has just been giving us another version of the
story,” said the Captain, “something about Gefjon and
Gylfi.”
“O, the Gylfa-Ginning. Stupid old fool!—that did not
happen here, but down in the south, between Sweden and
Denmark. So far, however, he is quite right,—at least,
if you believe the Prose Edda; the Goddess Gefjon was the
first canal maker in Sweden, and the event happened in the
reign of King Gylfi.
“Thus it was:—
“King Gylfi ruled over the land of Svithiod (Sweden),
and at that uncertain date which is generally known as ‘once
upon a time,’ he recompensed a strange woman, for some
service she had done him, with as much land as she could
plough round with four oxen in a day and a night; but he
did not know, till the share struck deep into the earth and
tore asunder hills and rocks, that it was the Goddess Gefjon
that he was dealing with. So deep were the furrows, that the
place where the land had been became water, for the oxen,
which had come from Jötenheim (the land of the Goths),
were really her sons, whom she had yoked to her plough.”
“Phew-w-w,” whistled the Parson.
“What is the matter?” said Birger.
“Only that as Gefjon is the northern Diana, I thought
you might have made a mistake; her nephews, possibly, not
her sons?”
“O, that goes for nothing in Sweden,” said the Captain,
laughing; “there are plenty of cases in point. I have no
doubt Birger is quite right.”
“Well, if you come to scandalising national divinities,”
retorted Birger, “I am sure that story about Endymion was
never cleared up very satisfactorily.”
“Clear up your own story, at all events, and place the
oxen in any relationship to the maiden goddess which you
may think best suited to her fair fame.”
“Then I will call them what the Edda calls them,” said
Birger, gallantly, “her sons, and never sully the fair fame of
the maiden Gefjon either. The whole is an allegory. Sweden
achieved the sea-path, or inland navigation by the labour of
her own sons, and that is what the old Skald Bragi means
when he likens them to oxen, and says—
“‘Four heads and eight eyes bearing,
While hot sweat trickled down them,
The oxen dragged the reft mass
That formed this winsome island.’
And now Gefjon and her sturdy sons have been at work
again. The whole south of Sweden is an island now, and it is
this canal from the Cattegat to the Baltic that makes it so.”
“Well, so it is; and though it is a long while since the
days of the Goddess Gefjon, or even of good Bishop Brask,
the work is complete at last, and a very creditable work it
is. I think, by-the-way, that we English had something
to do with it.”
“England had a hand, and a very considerable one, in the
other end of it,” said Birger, “but these locks are home
manufacture, and the thing really has answered very well.
See what a trade it has opened with the Wener only, which
was the original plan; the communication with the Baltic
being a sort of after-thought of the Ostergöthlanders, carried
out by Count Platen. This part of the canal, which was
opened in 1800, has made four of our inland counties, Wenersborglan,
Mariestadslan, Carlstadslan, and Orebrö, into so
many maritime states; and now the other end has done the
same for Jonköping and Linköping. In national wealth, it
has paid a dozen times over. There is no one who has ever
lived, since the days of Oxenstjerna, to whom we owe so
much as we do to Count Platen. In the very heat of the
war—that is to say, in 1808—he conceived the idea of prolonging
the water communication to the Baltic. He went
over to England to inspect, with his own eyes, the Caledonian
canal. He engaged Telford, returned to Sweden, and, within
two months, sent in his plans, with their specification and
estimates, which, strange to say, have not been exceeded in
the execution. It is this old part of the canal, however,
which is, at all events, the most showy job; here are two
miles of solid rock cut through, and, as you see, these falls
are pretty high—not less than a hundred and twenty feet
of them, besides the rapids,—they require, therefore, a good
many locks; in fact, as you see, it looks more like a staircase
than anything else.”
“It certainly was a singular sight,” said the Captain, “to
see our steamer high above our heads, and the masts of the
brigs sticking out from the tops of the rocks, and far above
the highest trees.”
“This part of the canal is the most showy,” said Birger;
“no doubt but Platen’s work was not altogether so easy
as it looks. Any one can appreciate the skill of an engineer,
who sees a great body of water surmounting a steep wall of
rock; but a still greater amount of skill is evidenced in laying
out a plan; so as to render such tedious and expensive works
unnecessary. When I was a youngster, I was sent by the
Kongs-Ofwer-Commandant’s Expedition, to survey, by way
of practice, the two lines from our fortress of Wanås-on-Wettern
to the two seas, and I really do not know which is
the most wonderful conception. The original plan was only
eight feet deep, but they are deepening it two feet more, and
making the width of the locks twenty-two feet throughout.
We shall see the Linköping battalion at work on this to-morrow.
I must go and pay them a visit while we are
staying at Gäddebäck. I know a good many of the officers.”
“It is a military work, then?”
“Not exactly, though, like most other large undertakings,
it is done by soldiers. It is a speculation, something like
those in your own country, which is taken in hand by shareholders,
with a board of directors, though I believe Government
gives them a lift of some sort or other; but in this country,
in time of peace, you can always get as many soldiers as you
want for labourers, from a corporal’s party up to a battalion,
or a brigade, for matter of that. You lodge so much money
in the hands of the Government officer appointed for that
purpose, and a regiment, or a company, or a detachment, receives
orders to march and hut themselves in such a place.
Your engineer, or foreman, or bailiff, as the case may be,
gives his orders to the officer in command, who sees them
carried into effect. It costs more in hard money—and, what
is a worse thing for us Swedes, ready money—than any other
sort of labour, but it answers exceedingly well for those who
can afford the first outlay, for the men are under military
discipline, and Government are responsible, not only that you
shall have so many men to work, but so many sober men, fit
to work, which, in this country, as you know, is not exactly
the same thing.”
“And how do the soldiers like it?” said the Captain, who,
though he did not say so, certainly was thinking that it was
not precisely the situation of an officer and a gentleman, to
do duty as foreman of the works for some speculating farmer,
or builder, or engineer.
The idea never seemed to strike Birger, who, by-the-way,
belonging to the Royal Guards, was himself exempt from
such service. “It is rather popular,” said he, “with all
classes; the men like it because they have a considerable increase
of pay, and as for the officers, except one or two who
are on duty for the day, they have but a short morning and
evening parade, just to see that their men are all right, and
then they may do what they please. They lose nothing,
either, for all places are equally dull in the summer, when
everybody is at work; there can be no festivities going on
anywhere, and so they shoot, or fish, or lounge, or make love,
at their leisure. But here we are at the parade-ground,” he
continued, as they came upon a cleared space in the forest,
surrounded by very neat and compactly-built huts, some of
considerable pretensions, framed with trunks of pines, and
walled and roofed with outsides from the saw-mills, arranged
as weather-boards; others, more humble, were constructed of
pine-branches and heather; but all alike compact, neat, firm,
tidy-looking, and arranged in military order, in straight lines,
with their officers’ huts in front.
The sun was not far from its setting, and the soldiers
having put aside their tools, were throwing on their belts in
a way that certainly would not have satisfied an English
adjutant, and were hurrying, with their muskets in their
hands, to their respective posts. There was a short private
inspection by the non-commissioned officers, while the band,
a pretty good one, were tuning their instruments; after
which the companies formed into line, faced to the west, and
as the lower limb of the sun touched the horizon, the officers
saluted with their swords, the men presented arms, and
accompanied by the band, sang in chorus, every man of them
joining in and taking his part in it, the beginning of Grundtvig’s
glorious hymn to the Trinity.
“O mighty God! we Thee adore,
From our hearts’ depths, for evermore;—
None is in glory like to Thee
Through time and through eternity.
Thy Name is blessed by Cherubim—
Thy Name is blessed by Seraphim—
And songs of praise from earth ascend,
With thine angelic choirs to blend.
Holy art Thou, our God!
Holy art Thou, our God!
Holy art Thou, our God!
Lord of Sabaoth.”
The air was simple enough, though beautifully harmonized;
but there is nothing in the whole compass of music so magnificent
as the combination of some hundreds of human voices
trained to sing in harmony; the band would have injured
the effect, but in truth it was hardly heard, overwhelmed as
it was by that volume of sound,—except, indeed, the roll of
drums which accompanied the final “Amen,” swelling and prolonging
the notes, and then dying away like a receding peal
of thunder. The men recovered arms, were dismissed, and in
ten minutes were dispersed over the parade ground, playing
leap-frog, fencing, wrestling, foot-ball; while not a few were
lighting fires, and boiling water for their evening gröd.
Birger stepped on, to see if he could meet with his
friend, while the other two, thinking that they should most
likely be in the way among people who, if they spoke
English or French at all, spoke it with difficulty; turned
into the well-beaten track that led to the inn and landing
place of Trollhättan.
Before they arrived there the night had already closed in;
that is to say, it had faded into twilight, for that is the
nearest approach which a northern summer’s night makes to
darkness. All that the travellers then saw of the inn was
the light which, glancing from every window, beamed forth
a welcome which it had evidently been beaming forth to
others before them; judging from the din which arose from
the evening relaxations of a dozen or so of jolly subalterns.
These, who had money enough, or who fancied they had
money enough to spend in luxury, had fixed their quarters
at the inn, instead of the pretty looking green huts which
their less wealthy or more prudent comrades had run up in
the camp.
In fact, the sitting rooms of the inn offered at that time
fewer temptations than the very clean, bare bed-rooms, with
their very white sheets, and very warm down coverlets.
Winter and summer alike, the feather bed is uppermost, and
here it was still; though the only reason why the windows
were not left wide open all night, was the clouds of musquitos
which, entering by them, menaced the repose of the
sleepers.
Jacob, whom the party had somewhat inconsiderately left
in charge of the baggage, had, much to their surprise,
deceived them all in making no mistake, and leaving nothing
behind; the carioles had been landed, and were ready packed
for their journey on the morrow, as duly as if the fishermen
had seen to them themselves; but in his own country Jacob
had become quite a different character, and piqued himself
in showing to the Norwegians in his own person how vast
was the superiority of the Swedes.
Birger was not seen again till the party was collected at a
sufficiently early hour of the morning round a magnificent
breakfast of fruit and fish, which had been laid out under
the verandah of the inn,—a narrow esplanade which looked
out upon the yet quiet waters of the brimming Gotha, at
the very point where they were gathering their strength for
their first furious plunge.
Most cataracts commence with a rapid: so still and calm
was the Gotha at this point, that the esplanade in question
was the general landing place from Wenersborg, and was
furnished with iron rings for the purpose of mooring the
boats, several of which, very fair specimens of Swedish boat-building,
were hanging on to them, scarcely stretching out
their respective painters, so gentle was the current. Among
them lay a very handsome gig with bright sides, well scraped
oars, and a white English ensign fluttering in the morning
breeze; from which Moodie, who had come in state with
four rowers, had just landed, and by means of which, the
travellers were to complete their journey.
In truth, Gäddebäck was not very accessible in any other
way; it had been originally built as a pic-nic house by the
Mayor of Wenersborg, who, when he had been half-ruined
by the great fire that had taken place there the year before,
was glad enough to contract his expenses, and to find a
person to take it off his hands. It suited Moodie well
enough, and its low rent suited him also, but there were not
many men whom it would suit at all. It had been built
exclusively for pleasure parties, and these were expected to
arrive there either by boat or by sledge, according as the
surface of the river was, water or ice. No one had ever
troubled themselves with any other entrance, and it was no
sort of drawback to the place in its original state, that communication
with the main land was entirely cut off. The
still, deep brook which gave to the place its name (pike
brook), had spread out behind the house into a broad reedy
morass, which in spring, during the floods, was a broad reedy
lake, but in summer a sort of neutral ground, between land
and water, through which was led a precarious track, which
might be passed on wheel, or indeed on foot, provided the
traveller did not object to very clear water, not much above
his knees. The actual spot on which the house was situated in
the middle of all this, was a patch of parky ground, abounding
in beautiful timber, which was five or six feet above the
general level; that part of it which lay next the river was
firm, and hard, and covered with short green turf, but this
subsided to landward, first into wet sponge, secondly into
bog, and lastly into reedy water, in proportion as it receded
from the river. The brook, divided by this patch of dry land,
soaked into the main stream, on either end of it, completely
insulating the domain.
This suited Moodie exactly, for the little park was full of
all sorts of grouse and other birds, which looked as if they
were at perfect liberty, as indeed they were, only that
having had their pinions cut, and not being able to swim,
they could not pass the girdle of water—herons, and cranes,
and bitterns, were stalking about, or watching for fish in the
shallows, like their wild brethren, for though excellent
waders, and quite in their element on the soppy shores to
landward, they could not swim any more than the grouse.
There were some deer, also, of various kinds, but as these had
no sort of objection to take the water, they were confined in
little paddocks, those being classed together who would keep
the peace.
On the esplanade, between the house and the river, lay a
dozen dogs, mostly English, on excellent terms with the
great brown bear, who, though perfectly tame, was secured
from paying any inquisitive visits to the deer paddocks by a
collar and chain, with which he was made fast to a substantial
post at the door.
The whole front of the house had been occupied by a ball-room,
with windows opening into a verandah. This verandah
had become a general marine store—oars, boat-hooks, masts,
sails, were arranged along it on hooks; but so tidily and
regularly were they disposed, that they looked as if they had
been placed there for ornament;—fishing rods of all lengths
were there, and a large assortment of eel-lines and night-lines,
and trimmers, and gaffs, and pike-wires, and spears,
and other poaching implements, together with a goodly
assortment of drags and flues in the back ground; while
a full-sized casting net, hung up to dry, displayed its
leaded semi-circle to the sun: for be it remembered,
Moodie made a profit of his pleasure, and not only kept
his own establishment in fish, but very seldom allowed the
Gotheborg steamer to pass without dispatching in her a
heavy birchen basket, consigned to Jacob Lindegren, the
fishmonger.
Neither was the interior at all out of character: the ball-room
had been divided by wooden partitions into three
very tolerable apartments—an ante-room or broad passage in
the middle, and on either side his dining room and what he
called his study, that is to say, the place where he made his
flies. The passage, which was sufficiently littered, contained
little other furniture than a turning-lathe and a carpenter’s
bench, with shelves and pigeon-holes round the sides for the
necessary tools; but both rooms were pictures of tidiness;
the furniture was plain enough, certainly, but the walls were
covered with sketches, of Moodie’s own drawing, and with
sporting trophies of every kind: huge bear skins and wolf
skins occupied whole panels, surmounted, perhaps, by the
grinning skull of a lynx, or a huge antlered head with the
skin on; between these were cases containing most of the
wild birds found in the country, all stuffed by his own
hands; together with specimens of eggs, hung up in a pattern,
but each labelled with the name of the bird it belonged
to. Between the windows was a formidable armoury, while
over one door was a stuffed otter, and over the other a wild
cat, and the rug itself was formed of badgers’ skins bordered
with fox; for Moodie had imported an English grate and
had built a fire-place, besides the invariable stove.
Such was the sportsman’s paradise, into which Moodie
welcomed his guests. There was accommodation, such as it
was, for an unlimited number of them; for there were several
empty rooms of one sort or another; and a rough box, hastily
run up with planks from the saw mills, filled with dry poplar
leaves and covered with a bear skin, was a bed much
better than any of them had been accustomed to. As for
washing, their toilet apparatus was laid out every morning
on the stage to which the boats were moored, and a dive
into the river was the very best way of washing the face
after shaving,—at least, so Moodie seemed to think, for
though his room was pretty well fitted up, inasmuch as such
toilet would be difficult in the winter, when the river was as
hard as a stone, in summer he always chose the boat
stage for his own dressing room, as well as for that of his
guests.
No one was sorry for a rest; journals had to be written
up, notes had to be compared; there was something, too, in
lounging lazily in the sun, or smoking a peaceful cigar under
the shade of the awning, or teasing the bear, or feeding the
grouse, and knowing all the while that there was no duty
neglected, and no opportunity lost. Not but that excursions
in a quiet way were made—now upon the water with the
trolling tackle, now on the high grounds of the royal forest,
now on neither land nor water, but on the marshy debateable
land, astonishing the ducks that swarmed among the reed
beds which divide the left bank of the river from the sound
land; but nothing very particular was done, beyond existing
in a very high state of quiet enjoyment.
CHAPTER XIX. GÄDDEBÄCK.
“I hung fine garments
On two wooden men
Who stand on the wall;
Heroes they seemed to be
When they were clothed;
The unclad are despisèd.”
Hávamál.
The day had been oppressively hot, more actual heat,
perhaps—reckoning by the degrees of Reaumur or Farenheit—than
had been experienced on the fjeld of the Tellemark;—but
that was dry, bracing, exhilarating heat, such as
is felt on the mountain side; this was the moist, feverish
warmth, caused by the sun’s rays acting on the wide expanse
of the Wener Sjön and its marshy shores, and secretly
and imperceptibly drawing up vapours, which would eventually
fall in rain,—not, perhaps, on the spot from which
they had been raised, but on the cold distant mountains of
Fille Fjeld, which at once attracted and condensed them.
There was not a cloud in the sky, but the sun would not
shine brightly or cheerily either.
The long summer’s day was, however, drawing to a close,
and the party were sitting at the extreme end of a little
jetty which Moodie had built out into the river on piles of
solid fir. This was covered with an awning of striped duck,—of
little use as an awning so late in the day, for the sun
was low enough to peep under it, but still kept up, partly to
tempt the air of wind, which every now and then fluttered
its vandyked border, and partly as a preservative against the
dews, which would be sure to fall as soon as the sun dipped
below the horizon.
From a flag-staff, stepped on the outermost pile, hung a
huge red English ensign, every now and then stirring in the
breeze, half unrolling its lazy folds and then dropping
motionless against its staff. Moodie was very particular
about this flag, and hoisted it every morning with his own
hands,—for ever since he had fairly turned his back upon
his native land, he had become intensely national.
In the front and beneath them the broad, clear, deep, still,
brimming river, full four hundred yards from bank to bank,
glided quietly along with a calm unbroken surface, and a
motion hardly sufficient to bring a strain upon the chain
cable of the little cutter that was moored some twenty yards
off the head of the pier, with her triangular burgee fluttering
out in the breeze that was not strong enough to move the
heavier ensign, and displaying the red cross and the golden
R.Y.S. so well known in every port in Europe. It was a
singular thing to see it here though, a hundred miles in the
heart of Sweden, with the tremendous Falls of Trollhättan
between it and the sea.
Made fast to the rails of the jetty were half a dozen
boats, of all shapes and sizes—from the long narrow galley
with its four well-scraped ashen oars, to the little white flat-bottomed
duck-punt,—for Gäddebäck, though not, strictly
speaking, an island, except during the freshets of early
summer, was so perfectly insulated by the sluggish brook
and the marshy ground through which it flowed, as to make
all communication with the main land, except by boat, extremely
precarious.
Dinner had been over for some time, and the party had
adjourned to the jetty, as the coolest place they could find.
They were sitting with their wine glasses before them,
while two or three bottles of light claret were towing overboard,
suspended in the cool water of the river by as many
night-lines.
“Upon my word,” said the Captain, throwing open his
waistcoat, “the West Indies is a fool to this; and it is not
unlike a tropical climate either,—moist, damp, and hot,—stewing
rather than broiling.”
“To tell you the truth,” said the Parson, “I am surprised
at your selecting this spot for your residence, beautiful as it
certainly is; with all this marsh land about it, it cannot fail
to be unhealthy.”
“Well, I do not know,” said Moodie, “they do talk of
agues, certainly, but these things never hurt me, and the
place suits me well enough; there is plenty of shooting—ducks
and snipes without end; and on the other side of that
range of heights, not three miles from us, is a royal forest,
well preserved, in which I have full permission to kill anything
I like, except stags, elks, and perhaps peasants, though
they do not make much fuss about a man or two either;
and, besides, the Ofwer Jagmästere is a particular friend of
mine. And as for fishing, it is not altogether such as I should
choose, no doubt, for it is mostly trolling,—but there is some
capital fishing, such as it is. I will show you what we can do
to-morrow at the upper rapids,—we have not been there
yet. It is a singular sort of sport, certainly; but if you
are half the poacher you used to be, you will like it for its
novelty. However, the greatest attraction that the place has
in my eyes, lies in its situation: this river is the high road
from Gotheborg to Stockholm, and steamers pass it every
day. Living on this Robinson Crusoe island of mine, I can
command the best market in the country, and in fact, I do
realize a very fair income by my fish and my game. Look
at my yacht, too, where else could I put it to so great use.
A short canal and a single lock passes me into the great lake
Wener, where I command some of the best rivers and some
of the best bear-country in Sweden. If I want to smell salt
water again, I have but to put my cutter in tow of the
market-tug, and to steam away to Gotheborg; and when I
want to be sulky, here I am, looking after my menagerie of
Scandinavian birds and beasts, and adding odds and ends to my
museum. I dare say people wonder at the old flag ‘that braved
a thousand years, the battle and the breeze,’ as they pass
backward and forward in the steamers; but no one stops
here, and you may be sure no one would find me out by
land. This is just the place for me; besides, it is not always
so hot as it is now,—I have driven my cariole across this
river, many a time.”
“By the way, what do you do with yourself in the winter?”
said the Captain; “you were never very much given to
reading, and your shooting and fishing must fail you then.”
“Fishing, yes; shooting, no,” said Moodie; “the finest
bear shooting is in the winter.”
“What! do you meet with bears in the forest?”
“Pooh, nonsense! you Englishmen are always fancying
that we kick bears out of every bush in Sweden.”
“You Englishmen!” said Birger, glancing at the flag.
“Well, well,—you Johnny Raws, I should say,—you
freshmen—you griffins. I was just as bad myself, though:
I remember the day I landed at Gotheborg, marching off
with my gun over my shoulder to a little wooded valley at
the back of the town where the Gotheborg cockneys have
their villas, and attacking a Swede, dictionary in hand, with
‘Hvar er Bjornerne’—how the scoundrel laughed.”
“Well, but what do you mean by bear shooting then,—where
do you meet with it?”
“Why, you travel a hundred miles to get a shot at a bear,
and think little of it too. The bear hunter must keep up a
correspondence with the Ofwer Jagmästerer of the different
provinces, and get information whenever the peasants have
ringed a bear as they call it—that is to say, ascertained that
he is within a certain circle, and then out with the sledge
and the dogs, and the rifles, and away up the river, or
across the lake, as it may be. You do not meet with a bear
at every turning, I can assure you. I have killed a pretty
many though, one way or other, since I have been here.”
“That you have,” said the Captain,—“at least, if all those
trophies that ornament your walls are honestly come by;
but by your own showing, you cannot be hunting every day
in the week; what do you do on the off-days?”
“Well, to tell you the truth, I was dull enough the first
winter; you will hardly believe it, but I took to reading—I
did indeed; you may laugh, but it is quite true. I got
up the natural history of the country thoroughly, and
crammed Linnæus. But I soon found something better to
do, when I began to get acquainted with the people, worthy
souls that they are. I had invitations without end, and got
on capitally with them,—quite a popular character I am.”
“The English are popular,” said the Parson, certainly;
“high and low we have found that, wherever we have been.
What we English have done to deserve it is more than I can
say; but Norway and Sweden, agreeing in nothing else,
agree at all events in doing honour to the English traveller.”
“Do not be taking the conceit out of Moodie”, said
Birger; “it is evident that he would have you to understand
that it is he, the individual,—not he, the Englishman,
who is thus honoured and caressed.”
“You need not be afraid of doing that,” said the Captain;
“ever since I have known him, Moodie has been a very great
man,—in his own eyes, at all events.”
“Why, you must know I am a great man here,” said
Moodie, “whatever I was in my own country. I am a
kammerjunker—no less.”
“A what?” said the Captain.
“A kammerjunker; and, in virtue of it, I have a right
to go before every one of you.”
“Well, but how came you to be a what-do-you-call-him?
‘Who gave you that name?’ as the Catechism says.”
“Not ‘my godfathers and godmothers,’ certainly,” said
Moodie, “and I hadn’t it ‘in my baptism;’ but I will tell you
how it was. Sweden, in the winter, is as different from the
same country in the summer as Connaught from Paradise.
In the winter, they are fiddling, and dancing, and singing,
from night to morn, and from morn to snowy eve. There is
not much else to do, as you say, that is the truth of it, unless
one happens to hear of a bear; so when I came to understand
a little of their lingo, I was very glad to go to their
jollifications. The people were always very civil in asking
me, wherever I was—that I must say for them. Now we,
in England, don’t care much about precedence, as you know.
Most of us do not know who is first and who is last, and the
rest do not care; and those who feel most secure of their
rank, are generally too proud to take the trouble of asserting
it. But it is not so here; they all know their places, like
schoolboys, and fight for them like dogs at a feeding-trough
if you happen to make a mistake about them—a thing which
the natives never do. I did not care much about this at
first, no Englishman would,—in fact, I did not understand
it; but after a bit it got to be very unpleasant—it made me
a marked man. Here was I, an English gentleman, as noble
as the king—and a little more so than that Brummagem
article of theirs,—shoved down, not only by counts and
barons, which I did not like over and above; for half the
people you meet with here are counts and barons,—and precious
queer ones, some of them; but, besides this, there were
their confounded orders of knighthood: there are knights
of the Cherubim and Seraphim[45], and knights of the
Elephant and Castle, and knights of the Goose and Gridiron,
and Heaven knows what besides. Then came the officials,
from the prime minister down to the post-master, and their
sons and grandsons. Why, there was not a tradesman I
dealt with, hardly a beggar I gave a shilling to, who had
not a clear right to go before me—aye, and showed every
disposition to exercise it, too!
“One day I was ass enough to be vexed because my tailor,
who was knight of the Shears and Cabbage, or something of
the sort, elbowed his way before me; and one of my friends,
I think it was this very Bjornstjerna, the Ofwer Jagmästere,
offered to get me a settled precedence. ‘Yours is not a new
family,’ says he.—Of course it was not, everybody knew the
Moodies, of Hampshire.—Well, that was all right; I had
only to get my sixteen quarters blazoned, and he would see
that I was made a kammerjunker. Sixteen quarters! thought
I. I had had a great grandfather, that is certain, for there
he lies in Havant Church, with a ton of marble over him,
and his arms on the top of that, a chevron ermine between
three mermaids ppr. to cheer him up on his road to Paradise.
He was a great man, too, and looked as if he was the son of
somebody, as the Spaniards say, to judge by the picture of his
coach-and-six, and outriders with French-horns, which is
hanging up in our hall, at Havant Manor. But he had
played ‘ducks and drakes’ with his guineas, and as for his
quarters, you know we don’t greatly trouble ourselves with
such matters.
“Well, I told my difficulty to one of my friends in Stockholm—an
idle young scamp of an attaché. ‘Why the devil
don’t you write to the Herald’s College,’ said he, ‘they will
trace your descent from the Preadamite Grants,[46] if you pay
for it. Tell them to make you up a pedigree for Sweden,
and, my life for it, they will get it up well.’
“I could not lose by it, you know, so I wrote, and, sure
enough, they found out that the old family had come over
with Duke Rollo, and had a hand in that conquest of ‘Normandie,’
which your fellow Torkel is continually dinning into
our ears. They found out, too, that our name originally was
spelt ‘Modige,’ which, in old Swedish, means ‘dashing,’ and
that it was a title of honour, given to us for our gallantry in
the said conquest. And, what was pat to the present purpose,
Duke Rollo had conferred on us the honour of hereditary
chamberlains, as soon as ever he had a court to appoint us to.
How we came to England I forget—I suppose, though, it was
with Duke William,—and what we did there I do not know,
unless it was plundering the Saxons, like the rest; but, at all
events, I got a string of shields, fit to roof Valhalla, and a
beautiful tree—rather an expensive plant it was, though, for
I paid sixty pounds for it. However, Bjornstjerna and my
friend the attaché marched off with the chevron ermine and
the three mermaids to the Hof-Ofwer-Something-or-other, and
brought me back a sheet of parchment with a big seal hanging
from it, giving me the privilege of pulling off the inexpressibles
of the third prince of the blood royal—whenever it
should please Providence to bless his Majesty with one,—and
in virtue of that office to style myself kammerjunker.”
“So you are a greater man than your tailor, now?”
“O yes,” said Moodie, “I take precedence of all manner
of people, and moreover wear, whenever I please—which is
not very often, you may be sure,—a concern in my button-hole,
something like what I used to wear when I was Noble
Grand of the Julius Cæsar Lodge of Oddfellows, at South
Marden. You may depend upon it I am something very
great indeed, though I must admit I do not know exactly
what.”
“Very great indeed!” said Birger, who, as may be supposed,
did not feel his country particularly flattered by
Moodie’s absurd—not to say ungrateful—description of his
honours, and retorted with a bit of Swedish slang: “I am
sure you are something ending in ‘ral,’ as the Karing’s wife
said to her husband; it certainly is not admiral—perhaps it
is corporal?”
“Upon my word, Birger, I beg your pardon,” said Moodie,
in some confusion. “You speak English so perfectly, and
look so like an Englishman, that I forgot we are not all
countrymen together.”
“Well, well,” said Birger, good humouredly, “I must confess
there is a great deal too much of truth in your satire,
and that is what makes the sting of it.”
“Never mind him, Birger,” said the Parson; “you Swedes
are uncommon fine fellows, and carry your honours in your
history; I should like to know what Europe would have
done in the thirty years war, if it had not been for Gustaf
Adolph and Oxenstjerna? Why, it was you who thrashed
Czar Peter and all the Russias into something like civilization,
and were the making of his armies by licking them.
Gallantly, too, did you hold your own, under the other
Gustaf, against the giant you had made; and I have no
doubt but that you would have thrashed the French giant
Nap., as well as the Russian giant Peter, if you had only
made up your minds in time which side you meant to fight
on. But for all that, it is a fact, as Moodie says, that, like
the girls, you are a little too fond of ribbons.”
“It is very true,” said Birger; “we depreciate our own
honours by our over-lavish distribution of them. That which
is plentiful, is cheap—that which is little, valued. It is the
law of nature, and as true of stars and ribbons as it is of
green peas and early potatoes.”
“To be sure it is,” said the Captain; “what regiment in
our service cares a button for the distinction of ‘Royal,’ which
it shares with the Royal African condemned corps? Who
prizes the Waterloo medal, which places in the same category
the Englishman who fought and the Belgian who ran?”
“Yes,” said Moodie, who had by this time done blushing
at his blunder, “at the Congress of Vienna, Lord Castlereagh
sat among the starry host of plenipotentiaries in a plain blue
coat, without one solitary decoration. ‘Ma foi! c’est bien
distingué,’ said good Bishop Talleyrand, who himself had a
star for every oath he had broken, and whose tailor could
not find room on his coat for all of them!”
“It was ‘distingué,’” said the Captain; “he belonged to
a country whose citizens do their duty for their duty’s sake.
That is distinction enough for any man.”
“Yes,” said Birger, “if they do—but a good deal depends
on that little particle;—however, even if citizens could be got,
whenever wanted, to do their duty for their duty’s sake, which
I doubt; distinctions, which of course involve precedence, are
useful in themselves. In your country, people are always
jealously guarding their position in society; you are always
on the look out, lest some interloper should thrust you out,
or refuse you the honour you consider your due. This is
what makes you Englishmen so unsociable and exclusive;
you are always on guard, walking sentry over your own
honour. Now look at our people—our barons and our
tradesmen, our princes and our farmers, all meet together
without fear of losing caste, because every one has his
position secured to him, beyond the possibility of invasion.
You dare not do this.”
“Do not say, ‘you,’” broke in the Captain, “I, thank
God! am a gentleman born, and have not to work for my
daily dignity.”
“That is only another instance of what I assert—‘a gentleman
born!’ you can afford to do what we all do, because,
by birth or by accident, you find yourself in the very
position in which we Swedes are all placed by the customs
of our country.”
“That is all very true,” said the Parson; “for the amenities
of life, I grant your system is by far the best; men live
happier and more contentedly under it; and it certainly does
produce a much more genial and social intercourse among
all classes, that men are dependent for their dignity on something
else than their wine merchant and their pastry-cook.
Still, yours is not the condition of progress; your people live
content, perhaps happy, in their fixed position; but every
man of ours, who is working for his daily dignity, as the
Captain calls it, is, in a very unpleasant and uncomfortable
manner, pressing onward and improving his own condition.
Now, that nation in which every man is continually excited
to improve his condition, is nationally progressive; that, in
which every man is content in his own place, is nationally
stationary. I do not say which is the best principle, only,
there is something to be said on the other side. One thing
is certain, our principle is not the same as yours; and it is
excusable, when we do borrow from the continent, if we
make a generous blunder in a science which we do not
understand, and in the largeness of our heart, give medals to
runaway Belgians, without remembering that the honour of
the medal lies not in the silver, but in the action which the
silver commemorates, and that, in truth, what we have given
to the cowards who ran, we must have filched from the
brave fellows who had earned for that medal its value.”
“So far, at all events, you are right,” said Birger, “that
your nation does not understand the science of decorations
any more than ours. You helped to spoil your own
Waterloo medal much more than ever the Belgians spoiled
it, and that not altogether from your largeness of heart. If
I had been a pink-faced ensign of that day, I should have
been ashamed to wear my medal in the presence of a Peninsular
veteran, who had done five hundred times as much as
I. It was a better feeling than that of being ranked with
the Belgians that made your people shy of their Waterloo
medals. And now that you begin to distribute your decorations,
you do not know how to do it: first of all you give it
for any little trumpery affair, like sticking those Chinese
pigs, and then you give it to all who have seen the smoke of
the gunpowder.”
“We presume that every one present does his duty, and
that none can do more,” said the Captain.
“A very pretty poetical fiction,” said Birger, “pity that it
is a fiction. However, one thing is certain—that will never
be prized that is shared by all alike; you see that at once
in our case—it is equally true in you own.”
Just then the Stockholm steamer, Daniel Thunberg, hove
in sight, with her light blue pennant of smoke, so unlike the
black volumes that roll from the chimneys of coal-burning
Englishmen.
“They have got something on board for us,” said Moodie;
“that calico concern on her foremast is their best Swedish
imitation of our English jack, and they always hoist it
whenever they have got a letter or parcel for me. There
goes a gun; those rascals are always glad of any opportunity
for making a bang. Hallo, there! Nils!” continued he, in
Swedish, to the master of his yacht, who had gone to sleep
against the heel of the bowsprit, with his pipe in his
mouth; “answer that signal, and send a boat on board the
steamer.”
He spoke as if he had a frigate’s crew at his command.
Nils started up, and as he happened, at that moment at
least, to be the captain and the whole ship’s company in his
own person, he proceeded to obey both orders personally—in
a few minutes was alongside the gay little craft, and returned
with a letter, the writer of which, to judge from the superscription
he placed upon it, must have considered Moodie a
very great man indeed, so many titles did he prefix to
his name—High-born and Illustrious were the very least of
them.
Moodie, a little afraid of the Captain’s satire—though the
direction, after all, was nothing more than the ordinary
Swedish form in which one gentleman addresses another,
and quite as appropriate as our much mis-used esquire,—crumpled
up the envelope in great haste.
“Hurrah!” said he, flourishing the letter over his head,
“this is the very thing for us—you are in high luck; look
here.”
“What is it?” said the Captain, for the letter, which was in
Swedish and written in the Swedish character, might as
well have been Cyrillic or Uncial, for anything he could
make out of it.
“Why, there is to be a skal in Wermeland, next Tuesday;
a grand bear hunt, in which they drive twenty or thirty
miles of country; this letter is from the very man I have
been speaking of—Bjornstjerna, the Ofwer Jagmästere, and
my own particular friend. Some half dozen respectable
farmers have made oath to him that they have been annoyed
by bears, and he tells me he has written to the præster of
the neighbourhood, to give notice from their pulpits, and to
turn out the whole country. That is the legal form on such
occasions, and there is a heavy fine for any man who does
not obey it.”
“Hurrah!” said the Captain, in his turn, “then we shall
kill a bear at last.”
“That you will,” said Moodie; “Bjornstjerna knows his
business as well as any man in Sweden; there are people
who fancy his patronymic a nick-name[47] of his own earning.
He would not be turning out the country for nothing, you
may depend on it.”
“Where is this to take place?”
“Why, in Upper Wermeland, as I told you, near Lysvic,
not very far from the banks of the Klara, a river I know
well, as full of grayling as it can hold; not that that has
much to do with bear hunting. It is not above a hundred
and fifty or two hundred miles from this.”
“Quite in the neighbourhood,” said the Captain, laughing.
“O that is nothing, we never mind a hundred miles or so.
If we get anything like a breeze, we will run across the
Wener, in the yacht, we can send the carioles on by land
to Amal, and we will pick up a waggon, or something, for
the men, at there or at Carlstad; and then you will see how
we will rattle up the country. We must send a boat, though,
to Wenersborg this very night, and tell the post-master to
make out a forbud for us; it will not do to trust to chance
on such an occasion as this, for we shall have to collect a
good many horses at every station. Let me see, we shall
want one for each of us, and three for the waggon, that will
make seven; and I suppose they will charge half a horse
more besides the forbud; for we shall have four men with us,
and we must take things enough to make us comfortable, for
I dare say we shall have a week in the forest, one way or the
other. Come, finish that bottle, and we will go in and have
some coffee; it is not so well to stay out here at night
when that blue mist is hanging on the swamp; besides,
these rascally musquitoes are anything but pleasant.”
CHAPTER XX. WENERN.
“The Night has covered her beauty. Her hair sighs on Ocean’s wind.
Her robe streams in dusky wreaths. She is like the fair Spirit of heaven
in the midst of its shadowy mist.
“From the wood-skirted waters of Lago ascend at times grey-bosomed
mists, when the gates of the West are closed on the Sun’s eagle eye.
Wide over Lara’s stream is poured the vapour dark and deep. The
Moon, like a dim shield, is swimming through its folds.
“‘Spread the sail,’ said the King; ‘seize the winds as they pour
from Lena.’ We rose on the wave with songs,—we rushed with joy
through the foam of the deep.”
Ossian.
“So peaceful, calm, and leaden grey,
Beneath our keel the waters lay,
Parting around the vessel’s prow
With rippling murmur, sweet and low,—
And rising slowly from the lake,
The wreathing mists asunder break—
Revealing all concealed before
Of forest, hill, and rocky shore.”
Anon.
There was no great stir next morning at Gäddebäck, considering
the importance of the expedition; as for preparations,
no more preparation was necessary than is necessary for a
detachment of soldiers that has received its route; the guns
and ammunition were paraded, and the knapsacks were
packed in light marching order; the carioles had been
despatched over night to the post-master at Wenersborg,
under the charge of Piersen and one of Moodie’s people,
with directions to send on a forebud, and then to proceed
by land to Amal; and the cutter having received her freight,
had, on the preceding evening, hauled out into the stream in
order to be taken in tow by the night steamer, for Wenersborg.
Moodie had determined that there was no need of disappointing
himself or his friends of their day’s fishing at the upper
rapids, seeing that they might easily be taken on the road.
He proposed, therefore, joining the cutter at Wenersborg in
the evening, and making the passage to Amal by night, observing,
that by getting what sleep they could while at sea, they
would lose no time, and might start immediately on landing.
“This is rather close shaving, Moodie,” said the Captain, as
they sat at breakfast the following morning,—rather an early
breakfast, for Moodie meant to give the fishing-ground what
he called a full due.—“You have made the evening breeze
an element in your calculation; we shall be in a mess if this
night is anything like the last.”
“O, but it will not be, ‘you see ghosts by daylight,’ as our
people say; there is always a breeze on the open lake, it is
not like this valley; besides, if it does fail us, we have only
to post; there is a regular posting track across the lake,
with stations on the islands, where they keep boats in the
summer and horses in the winter. If the breeze does fail
us, which I tell you it will not, we have only to send the
dingy to Leckö or Lurön, whichever we may be nearest to,
and get boats enough to carry us all.”
The Parson made no opposition, though in his heart he
agreed with the Captain that the experiment might very
possibly involve the loss of their ultimate object, the skål;
the salmo ferox was, however, a new fish to him, and notwithstanding
all he had said in its disparagement on the
banks of the Torjedahl, he would not much have liked to
lose his chance of landing one. By his advice a light rod
or two were added to the baggage,—for the rivers north of the
Wener abound in grayling, though, strange to say, these
delicate fish are never found south of it.
The four-oared gig being the fastest pulling boat, carried
them up the stream to the point at which the great canal
leaves the river; beyond this it ceases to be navigable on
account of its rocks and rapids, but for this very reason
becomes much more valuable as a fishing preserve. At these
rapids, which was the crack station of all Moodie’s fishery,
was a sort of out-post, where he had a keeper’s house, with a
separate establishment of boats. The Captain turned up his
eyes a little at hearing of this fresh proof of his friend’s magnificence;
but it sounds grander to English ears than it is in
fact, for Moodie made money by his fishery, and of course
required men, not only to preserve it, but to catch the fish
while he was absent on any roving expedition like the present;
and as for boats, where planks may be had at the saw-mills
for almost nothing, and where every man is more or
less of a carpenter, rough fishing punts are articles of very
small expense indeed, and are generally built at home.
It is said that the great lake, Wener, even now the largest
in Europe, was once much larger; that it once extended to the
falls of Trollhättan; that all the low-lying and marshy shores,
which are now the delight of ducks and the glory of musquitoes,
were once under water, but that the stream having
gradually worked its way over the falls, like a saw, continually
wearing away the rock from which it fell, and
carrying it off, portion by portion, opened a deeper passage,
and that the lake has gradually receded to its present
limits.
This of course, happened in Preadamite times, or, to use
the language of the allegorical history of creation supplied by
the prose Edda—in those days, “before the sons of Bör had
slain the giant Ymir.”[48] And certainly the formation of the
valley afforded some grounds for the conjecture: two low
lines of hills, steep and cliff-shaped, suggested readily the
idea of Preadamite banks; while the flat bottom of the
valley, in many places irrecoverably marshy, in all liable to
be covered with water whenever the river is in flood, looked
quite as much like the bottom of a drained pond as it did
like the real land. It was not without its beauty, either;
if ever it had been a lake, it must have been a lake studded
with low islands, and these, as well as much of the marshy
ground, were covered with forests, hiding, by the luxuriance
of their growth, the numerous cultivated spots which intervened.
It was a very different description of scenery to that of
Norway certainly, for the hills of Hunneberg and Halleberg,
which bound the view to the east and contain some very
valuable limestone quarries, are, what limestone soil invariably
is, tame and monotonous. They, however, abound in oak—a
very rare tree in the north,—and also in deer and roe-bucks,
which are not common either, but this being a royal forest,
they were probably better looked after than they are in private
lands, and Moodie, who, practically, had the rangership, as
he was the only man allowed to shoot there, was scrupulously
particular, and would as soon have thought of shooting a
keeper as of shooting a deer.
The rapids are formed by a ridge of rock which crosses
the river, over which it pours down one or two steps leaving
deep broad pools of eddying water between them. The
whole of this part of the river is overhung with trees of the
largest growth which Sweden affords, and is as beautiful a spot
as any they had seen. As the rocks are extremely rugged,
the river is of very unequal breadth,—the banks, at one place,
approaching so near to each other, that an Alpine bridge is
formed of pine trees thrown across it. Four of the longest
firs that could be found, with their stems resting on the
rocks, are tied together in pairs, at their upper ends, by
means of two iron bands, forming a broad Gothic arch. This
is the skeleton of the bridge; the horizontal timbers, which
were laid for the footways, passed them at about a third of
their height, like the cross-bar of the letter A, and formed
ties to steady them as well as to support the rest of the
structure. It was an exceedingly picturesque affair, and told
well for the ingenuity of the architect.
This bridge was their first stage. The keeper’s hut commanded
the pools both above and below the bridge, and had
establishments of boats for both divisions of the river—for
there was considerable difficulty in getting a boat from one
to the other.
The salmo ferox, when small, is often caught with a fly,
and may be so caught when fourteen or sixteen pounds
weight, but this is not a very common occurrence. The
usual way of fishing for him is with a large litch of six pairs
of hooks and a lip-hook, very heavily loaded and baited with
a bleak or a gwinead, of which there are plenty in the river.
A boat is absolutely necessary. The fisherman stands in the
stern, and runs out some thirty yards of the line heavily
loaded, with a short stiff pike-rod; the boat must be kept
continually traversing the stream, beginning at the head of
it and quartering it down to the foot, while the troller at the
stern, with the point of his rod low, keeps his bait spinning
in jerks,—the object being to imitate a sick or wounded fish.
At each turn of the boat, the line must be gathered in by
the hand, or the edges of the rapids, which indeed are the
most likely parts, would be untried; four out of five fish are
caught while the boats are in the act of turning.
This rather monotonous description of sport had gone on
for some time, when the Parson felt the rod nearly taken
out of his hand by the rush of a fish. The battle was furious,
for the salmo ferox does not belie his name, but it was a mere
trial of tackle, without any opportunity for the exercise of
skill,—carried on, too, at the bottom of water twenty feet
deep; and when, after a quarter of an hour’s boring against
the bottom, the Parson succeeded in bringing to the gaff his
huge capture, he declared he had done enough for fame,
struck up his rod, sought the lower pool in pursuit of gös
and id, with which, as well as with trout, it was said to
abound.
The Swedes say that gös is a fish very difficult to catch;
to an Englishman, by far the most difficult part of the business
is to name the fish when he has caught it. Certainly, no
one is qualified to do so who speaks of Göthe under his
English appellations of Goth and Goaty: the dotted o affects
and softens the preceding consonant as well as the vowel, and
the name of this fish is pronounced much as if it was spelt
“yeus,” in French letters. The difficulty experienced by
the Swedes in catching it, arises from the fact of its requiring
fine tackle in the clear waters which it frequents, instead of
the coarse gimp or wire which is sufficient for the rash and
headlong pike; in all other respects the habits of the two
fish are very similar, except that the gös is a much smaller
fish, and very much more prized. For him, the Parson was
content with setting lay-lines with live baits and considerable
length of fine gut, while he directed his personal attention
to the id.
In every particular, except one, the id is a chub; his
haunts, his habits, his food are those of a chub; in looks, too—though
certainly not altogether so clumsy, and, so to speak,
chubby,—he reminds one forcibly of the chub family. He is
something like the half-polished parvenu in his transition
state of existence, just admitted into aristocratic circles, but,
as yet, unable entirely to lay aside his brandy-and-water
habits and feelings. In every particular, except one, the id
is a chub, and that is, that he is by far the best eating of
any of the cyprinæ; in fact, so far as the pot goes, he is a
very respectable prize. The Parson, who, in his youth, had
caught many a chub, and was fully aware of the zoological
affinity of the two fish, was by no means at a loss for subjects
of mutual interest between himself and his new introduction;
a fly, resembling, as near as it could be made on the spur of
the moment, a humble-bee, was tied on his finest gut, and the
boat, anchored in the stern, was by slow degrees permitted
to descend within long-cast of a still, over-shaded pool: the
fly, thrown from as great a distance as he could command,
fell as lightly as so clumsy a combination of fur and feathers
could be expected to fall, and was moved very slowly and
regularly over, or rather through, the water; for, as it may
be supposed, the length of line caused it to sink a few inches
below the surface.
His science was not unrewarded, for, before long, a sluggish
roll in the waters, and a strong, obstinate, pig-headed
pull at his line announced a capture. This was quickly followed
by others, for id, though gregarious, are quite as indifferent
to the troubles of their neighbours as if they were
human creatures; provided you do not show yourself and
alarm them for their individual safety, their friend may kick
and struggle before their eyes, without causing a single wag
of their selfish tails.
It was not bad fun upon the whole, for the id, though not
possessing a tithe of the life and activity of the salmo genus,
pull like donkeys, and might have lasted some time longer,
for the Parson was getting interested, when Jacob was seen
making his leisurely way along the bank, for the purpose of
announcing “mid-dag’s mad.” The ground was sufficiently
tangled, and Torkel, who was managing the boat and landing
the fish, was extremely amused at the air of vexation and
annoyance with which he dipped under a low-spreading fir
branch, or put aside a too affectionate bramble. About a
hundred yards above the id pool was a little beach of the
whitest and smoothest sand that ever fairy danced upon.
From the point where the boat was anchored, it was evident
that this was caused by a little dull-looking stream, which
had brought the white particles from the hills during the
floods; but which then, very suspiciously, did not run into the
river, but lost itself behind the white beach. All this was
lost upon Jacob, who was in the wood, and who, not liking
the tangled ground, made a valorous jump on to the white
beach.
“Der var et spring af en Leerovn!” shouted Torkel, quoting
a Danish proverb (“there was a jump for a tile-stove!”)—as
poor Jacob flopped through the thin crust of white sand into
a bed of black, tenacious clay, in which he seemed planted up
to his middle, with his long flowing coat-tails spread out
upon the unbroken sand.
The more he screamed with fear, the more they screamed
with laughter. There was not the slightest danger, for he
had evidently got as far as he meant to sink; but as for
getting out without a purchase from something solid, the
thing was impossible.
“We must have another fish,” said Torkel, to make up the
dozen; “and it will be impossible to get Jacob out without
spoiling the pool by pulling the boat across it.”
The Parson coolly took another cast,—Jacob screamed
louder than ever.
“Bother that fellow,—I have missed him,” said the Parson,
meaning not Jacob, but the fish.
“Try again,” said Torkel, coolly, “you will get him next
time.”
A despairing shriek from Jacob.
“Ah! that is in him!—this is the biggest we have had
yet! mind what you are about with the landing-net,—do
not let him run under the boat! Well, really, we must
pull out poor Jacob, or he will poison us with bad cookery,
out of revenge. Up killick! or whatever you call it in your
language, and shove across to him.”
But when they landed, they seemed as far from the
rescue as ever. Jacob had jumped vigorously, and the
bank from which he had jumped was high. To reach him
was impossible, and to get out on the sand would be to
share his fate. While Torkel was trying to slip down the
bank, the Parson took out his knife to cut a branch.
“Stop! stop!” said Torkel, who, unsuccessful, had scrambled
back. “What are you doing?—we shall all suffer for
this; it is elder that you are cutting.”
“Well! what then?”
“Why, if we take it without asking for it, the elves will
have power over us for nine days, and the chances are, some
of us will die suddenly.”
The Parson was inclined to laugh, but he did not, and
turned to look for a branch of less dangerous wood; but
Torkel, placing himself before it, taking off his hat and
bowing three times to the tree, said, “Elf-mother! elf-mother!
let me have some of thy elder, and I will give thee
something of mine.”
The elf-mother certainly did not refuse, and Torkel took
silence for consent, which it proverbially is, and cut away at
the bough, which, stripped of its side branches, formed a
communication with the imbedded Jacob, who, black without
and sulky within, and, as Torkel said, looking more like
a pig than ever, was dragged floundering to the shore,—not
at all the more pleased when Torkel reminded him that, as
they were in light marching order, he would have to wash
his shirt, trousers, and stockings, and to sit without them
till they were dry.
When the party met at their mid-dag’s mad, which was not
till long after the Swedish time for mid-dag’s mad had passed,
there was a very respectable show of fish—not only enough
for the cutter, but also a very handsome basket for the
Gotheborg steamer that evening, which was duly packed
and forwarded in a light cart to the locks; while the party,
shouldering their weapons and that part of their prize which
they had reserved for themselves, took the forest path to
Wenersborg. Before sundown they were safely established
on board the little cutter, who immediately tripped her
anchor, hoisted jib and foresail—for the mainsail was already
set,—payed off slowly before it, and stood out into the lake,
which was glowingly reflecting the red beams of the setting
sun, but still faintly rippling under the easterly breeze.
“Did not I tell you so?” said Moodie, who, seating himself
with his legs dangling down the well, had assumed the
tiller just as a gentleman drives his own carriage; “we
have had a capital day’s sport, and got a glorious breakfast
for to-morrow. I have turned a few bancos, which will help
to pay for the trip, and here we are, resting from our labours
while the wind is carrying us on our journey.”
“I hope it will stand,” said old Nils, “but it is easterly,
you see, and the sun is setting; the wind does not like to
blow in the face of the sun.”
“Go to the—Strömkarl—your old croaker, and check the
main-sheet; you have got the sail a fathom too flat. The
wind is drawing round to the southward, as any one may
see; ease off the jib and foresail too, while you are
about it.”
The fact was, that the wind had stood steady enough, but
Moodie, in his anxiety, had let her fall off a couple of points,
which Nils saw, but was too sulky to mention, and which the
rest of the party did not see, because, as strangers, they were
ignorant of the true course, and there was no binnacle, or,
so far as they could see, compass of any kind, besides those
they had in their pockets.
The cutter was half-decked, with a tidy little cabin forward,
and a couple of bunks for sleeping—one on each side of
the well; in these the party very shortly disposed themselves,
for they knew that a pretty stiff day’s work lay before
them; and having established the best defence in their
power against the musquitoes, slept as campaigners sleep, in
right down earnest.
“Hallo, Nils! where are we?” asked a sleepy voice next
morning.
The Captain, who had curled himself into the opposite
bunk, was not quite certain whether it was not still a part
of his dreams.
The next call was quite enough to settle this fact.
“Nils!” roared Moodie, “why Nils! confound the fellow,
I believe he is asleep.”
And so, sure enough, he was, with his head on the rudder-case,
as fast as any one of the seven sleepers of Ephesus; and
poor Nils was by no means singular in this respect—passengers
were asleep, attendants were asleep, dogs were asleep,
Jacob was asleep and snoring, the winds were asleep, everything
was asleep but the sails, and they were waving to and fro
with the knittles pattering against their surfaces, and shaking
the night dew on the deck like rain, while over all, like an
eider-down coverlet, had sunk on them all a steaming white
fog, so thick that the sharpest eyes could not see the little
burgee at the mast-head, or the out-haul block at the bowsprit
end. It was not dark, it never is in summer, but no one
could tell whether the sun had risen or not.
“Here’s a go!” said the Captain.
“Faith! I wish it was a go,” said the Parson, putting
his head out of the cabin door; “it seems to me just the
reverse.”
Moodie, whose clever plan seemed to promise anything but
success, was as sulky as Nils had been overnight, and rated
the poor fellow soundly for going to sleep.
Nils represented, not altogether unreasonably, that the
wind had gone to sleep first.
“What is to be done now?” said Moodie, breaking off a
discontented and reflective whistle, the last notes of which
had been singularly out of tune; “I cannot send this sleepy
old fool to Leckö, or anywhere else, for I do not know where
Leckö is, or where we are, or anything about it in this fog;
who was to have thought of this?”
“Never mind,” said the Parson—
“The wisest schemes of mice and men
Gang aft ajee;”—
“I suppose this fog will clear off some time or other, and
we are well provisioned, at all events.”
“Yes,” said Moodie, “but we have sent on a forebud,
and we shall have to pay for the horses all the way
up.”
“Well, that is a bad job,” said the Parson, “as far as it
goes; but the worst that can come of it is to pay double,—once
for the failure, and once for the real journey.”
“No, that is not the worst, by any means; we have not
only lost our money, but our forebud; we shall be kept
waiting for an hour or two at every station, and shall most
probably arrive when the fun is over. At such out-of-the-way
places there is not a chance of holl-horses, that is to say,
horses which the post-master keeps himself on speculation,
and we shall have to send to the farms, whose turn it is to
furnish them. I have been kept waiting that way for four
hours at a single station.”
Here Nils, who had been up to the mast-head to see if he
could make out anything (for these fogs very often lie on
the surface, not a dozen feet thick, looking from above like
so much cotton wool in a box, while the sun is shining
brightly above them), slid down the back-stay, and declared
he could feel a light air aloft on the starboard beam; “his
cheek felt quite cold,” he said, “though the heavy main-sail,
dripping with dew, did not acknowledge the breeze
at all.”
“How is her head; why, confound you, you have forgotten
the compass” (not at all an unlikely piece of forgetfulness in
a river yacht.) This was soon remedied, for the Parson put
his own little pocket affair on the deck, which, as it was a
calm, did quite as well as her own.
She was looking a little southward of east, having probably
turned round and round a dozen times during the
night.
“That would do, the wind was southerly then; but where
were they?”
The day was now getting bright, and the fog was looking
like a silver veil; the tiresome pattering of the knittles had
ceased, or was renewed only at intervals; she was evidently
gliding through the water,—but which way were they
to steer? Amal certainly must be somewhere to the northward,
but within six or eight points it was impossible to tell
where after such a sleepy watch as had been kept during
the past night. Reluctantly, Moodie brought her to the
wind, and hauled his foresheet to windward.
But the breeze increased, and the fog began to lift now
and then; it could be seen under, as it were, and though just
as thick about the mast-head as ever, a hundred yards or so
of the surface could be seen plainly on either side.
Nils rubbed his hands at this infallible sign of the rising
of the fog, and Moodie, somewhat easier in his mind, ordered
coffee.
“There’s land on the port-beam,” said the Captain,
during one of these lifts. “I am sure I saw land, whatever
it is.”
“There ought to be no land there,” said Moodie; for, lying
as she did now, close to the wind, she had brought the east,
that is to say, the great expanse of the lake, to her port-side,
and was looking exactly on the opposite direction to her
course; “get a cast of the lead, and keep a bright look out
for rocks.”
Just then the curtain of the fog rose in earnest, and disclosed
a cluster of rocks and islets, among which they had
got themselves completely entangled. “Why, what is this?—it
is! no, it can’t be! yet it is—”
“It is Lurön,” said Nils.
“Lurön,” said Moodie, “why, that is miles to the eastward
of our course! Where have you been steering to during
the night?”
“You told me to ‘keep her as she goes,’ and so I did.”
And so he had; the fault lay with Moodie himself, who
from the first starting had steered two points to the eastward
of his course; the fog and the current—for the Wener is big
enough for current—had done the rest.
It did not however signify, the breeze blew merrily and
promised to stand; the fog now lay in light fleecy clouds far
above their heads; the sun, not far from the horizon, began
to smile upon them and to chase away the dangers of the
night, and with them the ill-humour they had engendered;
the fore-sheet was let draw, and as she gathered way she
tacked, fell off on the port-tack, and with a jolly breeze on
her quarter, buzzed away through the water to the northwest.
Soon a line of trees appeared on the horizon, as if they
were dancing in the air, or floating in the water; then the
trunks began to form and unite with something below them;
then the line of land, real firm land, began to manifest itself;
then red, and white, and black, and brown, and striped cottages
began to show out; and before ten the anchor was
let go before the little town of Amal.
The horses were still awaiting them, for the allotted three
hours, during which they are bound to remain, had not yet
elapsed and they escaped on payment of the regulated fine
for being after time. The men were sent on immediately in
the waggon which Moodie had spoken of, and which he had
written to his friend the farmer to borrow, sending his note
by the forebud. In half-an-hour the carioles were harnessed,
and as they plunged into the forests at the back of Amal,
the last thing they saw was the pretty cutter, close hauled,
lying as near to her course to Wenersborg as the wind would
let her look.
The trees of Western Carlstadtlan, which they were now
traversing, are said to be the finest in Sweden; this is due
partly to the depth and goodness of the soil—a circumstance
which will eventually secure their destruction, by offering a
temptation to convert the fjeld into arable land; that they
stood, even yet, was principally on account of the absence of
any great rivers, which afford the only means of conveying
timber to the coast. The land is quite as good on the banks
of the Klara and Swedish Glommen, the latter of which runs
into the lake a few miles eastward of Amal, but there is a
sensible difference in the growth of the timber. There was
fir, no doubt, in plenty—there is no Swedish forest without
fir,—but there were also huge beech trees, and a sprinkling
of not very happy-looking oak, that put one in mind of the
English in India: they lived in the country, but they did
not enjoy it.
The whole country looked like an enormous park—rather
too thickly planted, to be sure,—one kept looking, at every
turn of the road, for the mansion; and the road, too, though
not one of very great traffic, was very good, winding along
with a great border of short turf on each side, comparatively
level on the whole, but occasionally interrupted by a descent
so sharp that it seemed as if the carioles were going to cut
a summerset over the horses’ ears,—more particularly as
the horses invariably chose those portions of the road for
going as hard as they could lay legs to ground, a peculiarity
sufficiently trying to the nerves; and as those portions of the
road were invariably cut to pieces by the rush of the water,
and were full of rocks besides, sufficiently trying to the
bodily feelings.
On the opposite sides of these ravines, the horses would
creep at the rate of about a mile an hour, the passenger being
so absolutely expected to walk up them, that many of the
horses came to a dead halt at the bottom, and refused to
proceed at all till disencumbered of their weight.
“It is not without reason,” said Birger, as they sat on the
roadside, at the top of one of these descents, watching the
slow progress of their carioles, under the care of their respective
schutzebonder—little boys or girls, as the case may be,
who sit on the foot-boards, and bring the horses back after
they have done their stage;—“it is not without reason that
the ancient Swedes have invented the legend that in certain
places the elves and the trees are identical; that these forest
elves are intensely patriotic, and that in times of invasion they
assemble their bands and fight by the side of their human
countrymen, in defence of their common country. Many of the
trees in Carlstadtlan, as well as in other places, are trees only
by day, but are armed soldiers by night. Of course the idea
is that the forests fight for the country in case of invasion,
and add to the numbers of its defenders; and so they do.
Russia might pour her thousands upon us, and sweep us off
the face of the earth, by mere force of numbers, in an open
field; but how would she ever force her passage through a
forest like this, filled with a few thousand riflemen? The
trees would fight for us even by day; but by night our numbers,
counting the elves, would be irresistible.
“The slight variety that there is in the legend in Denmark,
bears this out there also; where the deep Sound and fjords
intersect the kingdom, the stony promontories are its best
defence, and the elf kings are called Klintekonger, or Promontory
Kings. There are several stories about their
parading their elf soldiers, with fife and drum, on the breaking
out of a war, and driving over the sea, with snorting
horses, in clouds and blackness, from one promontory to
another. The elf king of Bornholm will not allow any
earthly prince to sleep more than three nights within his
dominions, nor will King Tolv permit any king besides himself
to pass the bridge of Skjelskör. This is all part of the
same allegory; the elves are the spirits of the woods, and
the Grims of the cataracts, and the Haaf manner of the sea,
and the Strömkarls of the rivers. They all bear the same character;
they are capricious as the elements are over which
they preside, and often injure most those who are most
accustomed to them, but in case of an invasion become rivers,
and lakes, and fjords, and forests, and unite to repel the invader.
Bother that little schutzebonde of mine; I wish she
were a boy, that I might whip her instead of the horse;”
and Birger strode down the hill to infuse fresh spirit into
the post-horse and post-girl.
Thus they travelled on, at the rate of five or six miles an
hour on the average, bowling along through the forest, but
interrupted, whenever they came near cultivation, by timber
fences and swing gates across the road, living mostly on their
own provisions, with the help of a little gröd which they got
from the post-houses, sleeping when they would in the haylofts,
sometimes in the open air, and occasionally on peculiarly
dirty sheepskins in the post-houses. Oh those sheepskins—
“Ye gentlemen of England,
Who live at home at ease,
How little do you think upon
The dangers of the fleas!”
CHAPTER XXI. THE MEET.
“A various scene the clansmen made—
Some sate, some stood, some slowly strayed,—
But most, with mantles folded round,
Were couched to rest upon the ground—
Scarce to be known by curious eye
From the deep heather where they lie;
But when, advancing through the gloom,
They saw their chieftain’s eagle plume,
Their shout of welcome, shrill and wide,
Shook the steep mountain’s steady side,—
Thrice it arose, and lake and fell
Three times returned the martial yell.
It died upon Rochastle’s plain,
And silence claimed her evening reign.”
Lady of the Lake.
Evening had already begun to close in, and the dark
branches of the firs, which for the last five or six miles had
canopied the road, were beginning to grow darker still, when
the carioles emerged from the great forest into a green park-like
glade, studded with feathering clumps of birch and
spruce; and rattled up to the door of the little inn that stood
on the borders of it, which was the place appointed for the
meet.
The inn, which, after all, was little better than a post-house,
was evidently not large enough to contain a tenth
part of the crowd collected in front of it; nor did the half
dozen wooden houses, which formed the village, afford much
more extensive accommodation.
Few, however, of those there assembled seemed to care
much about the matter; the evening was warm, the sky was
clear, and the stars were beginning to twinkle merrily
through the calm blue sky; the good green wood was shelter
enough for the hardy peasants and their equally hardy
landlords, and would have been shelter enough though the
ground had been white with snow.
Fires were beginning to rise here and there, bringing into
view the gipsy-like groups collected round them, as they sat,
stood, or lay at full-length upon the turf—some busied about
the little tin kettles, in which they were mixing their rye
gröd, some bringing in fuel, some returning from the inn and
the temporary stalls that had been established round it for
the sale of bread, cheese, butter, brandy, and other necessaries;
though most of the party had brought good store of
provision in their own bags. Some—and they mostly the
elders of the parish—were quietly smoking their pipes, and
discussing the events of former skals, and prophesying good
or bad of the present one, according as their dispositions
were sanguine or the reverse; but all were talking, laughing,
hand-shaking, imparting or listening to little pieces of
domestic news, or parish scandal—for, in the forest parishes,
(and in Sweden most parishes are of that character), a skal
brings together men who have but few other opportunities
of meeting.
A few old stagers, indeed, were trying to get one good
night’s sleep, in order to prepare themselves for the fatigues of
which the morrow was but the beginning, and were stretching
themselves on the turf, with their feet towards their
fires; but new arrivals were continually rousing them up, and
some fresh Calle Jonsen, or Swen Larssen, or Nils Ericsen,
would be continually dropping in with fresh inquiries, fresh
news, and fresh greetings.
From the windows of the inn, which were wide open, a
broad, bright glare of light was streaming across the glade,
obscured now and then by the shadow of some great head
and shoulders—for the room was full of people,—but strong
enough, notwithstanding, to light up the boughs of the old
lime trees that shaded the porch, glittering among their soft
green leaves, as if they really were what the Swedes suppose
them to be, the roosting places of the Spirits of Light.
This was evidently the head quarters of the skal, where
the generals and field officers were holding high council,
receiving information, arranging plans, and issuing orders;
and Birger, springing from his cariole and throwing the reins
of his horse to his schutzebond, or post-boy, and committing,
with utter recklessness of consequences, the whole department
of quartermaster-general, and commissary-general
to boot, into the hands of Jacob, rushed into the room,
followed by his three friends.
This opportune reinforcement was greeted with shouts of
welcome: Birger himself was an old friend of the Ofwer Jagmästere,
and had, before this, signalized himself as a hunter.
Englishmen are invariably popular both in Norway and Sweden;
and besides, the value of English rifles, and English sportsmen
to carry them, was universally acknowledged. Moodie,
however, was the great prize; he had been now, for four years
in the country, and had been there quite long enough to be
known and appreciated as the best shot and the most sagacious
and inventive leader in the province. With a natural
turn for the chase in all its varieties, he had thrown himself,
heart and soul, into the business of bear hunting, had studied
it theoretically and had worked out his theories practically,
till he was universally acknowledged to be a fair match for
the “gentleman in the fur cloak, who has the wisdom of ten
and the strength of twenty,” as the Swedes periphrastically
term their great enemy, the bear.
He had remained in the porch for a minute or two, giving
some directions to his followers, so that the greetings, and
introductions, and first inquiries had a little subsided when
he entered; but the moment his well-known green cap was
seen in the doorway, there arose such a shout of welcome,
that it made the flitches of bacon and strings of onions
tremble from the rafters.
“Modige! Modige!”[49] for so they had naturalized his
name into a word which, in their language, signifies courageous.
The well-known cry was caught up among the parties out
of doors, and echoed back again from tree to tree, while the
glare of the camp-fires shewed dark shadows of insane figures,
waving arms and hats, aye, and handkerchiefs, too, for every
woman who can possibly slip away from home, turns out on
a skal.
“Modige! Modige!” again came thundering and screaming
back in all sorts of voice, old and young, male and female;
now dying away, then bursting forth, as some distant post
took it up again.
“Upon my word,” said the Ofwer Jagmästere Bjornstjerna,
speaking in French, out of compliment to the strangers—for
this language, though utterly despised in Norway, is pretty
generally spoken among the Swedish aristocracy; “upon my
word, the people have decided the matter for us; I wanted
some one to take charge of the hållet, and was going to offer
you the command the moment I saw you, but the people seem
to have taken the matter into their own hands now; you
cannot possibly refuse, you are elected by acclamation.”
“I am delighted to be of any use,” said Moodie,—in
fact, he did look delighted in good earnest,—“and will do my
best; but you are aware that I am not very familiar with
the ground here.”
“Never mind that,” said Bjornstjerna; “we will soon find
some one to be your quartermaster-general; what we
want is, a man that the people look up to, who knows his
business, and is accustomed to command.”
“How many shall I have under me in the hållet?”
“We cannot spare you above five hundred,” said Bjornstjerna;
“but the ground is easy enough, at least so far
as the hållet is concerned. See here,” and he produced a
rough but well-executed military sketch of the ground,
which he had surveyed and mapped that morning; “this
plain is the country we mean to drive,—there is about three
miles of it in length, that is to say,” he added, parenthetically,
nodding to the Englishmen, “what you would call in your
country, one or two-and-twenty. On the west, as you see,
it is bounded by the river which I have marked here in
blue; this, in its course, expands into these two lakes, and
just by the water-side the country is comparatively open,
with a few farm houses and hamlets about it; the forest,
however, closes it all round, getting thicker as you approach
the mountains. On the east is this range of heights which,
as luck will have it, I find are scarped by nature into cliffs,
so that nothing but a bird can get up them—except at these
passes, which I have marked on the map with a cross.
These are mostly the dry or half-dry beds of torrents, and by
the side of almost all of them there is a passage into the
upper fjeld, practicable for men, and, consequently, for beasts
also, when they are frightened. At this point, where we
intend stationing our dref, the range of hills is about six of
your miles distant from the line of the river, but it gradually
approaches it; and at this point, where there are some falls
and rapids, the distance is very trifling—not above a thousand
eller—somewhere about half an English mile; and,
besides, there is a spur of rock here which causes the falls
of the river, and upon this the forest is very thin and open.
Here I propose placing you with the hållet. You will
establish yourself on the reverse slope of the spur, so that
our shot will pass over your heads; you will then only have
to clear away sufficient of the under-stuff from the front of
your position to give you a fair shot at anything that
attempts to cross.
“About a thousand or fifteen hundred eller in front of
your position, and parallel to it, runs a cow-track to the
upper säters, which, upon the whole, is pretty open, and
upon which you may as well set a hundred or two of your
men, to improve to-morrow into a shooting line. Here we
shall take our stand after we have driven the country.
There is a thickish bit between this path and your position;
the game will not object to enter it, and if they do, we
ought to get every one of them, for to the left the rock is
absolutely perpendicular, and on the right the rapids are
such that nothing can cross them.”
“You have no skal-plats?” said Moodie.
“Why this is a skal-plats,” said Bjornstjerna, “rather a
large one, to be sure; but we shall not run much risk of
getting our men shot in driving it, because you will be on
the reverse slope; and, by the way, you must be very particular
in cautioning all your skalfogdar to keep their men
from showing themselves on the crest of the hill. I did
at one time think of making a skal-plats here, on the banks
of this lower lake, and driving from both ends at the same
time; but the ground is not favourable; a good deal of it is
cleared, and every bear will make for the roots of the mountains,
where the under-stuff is thickest; they cannot get up
the perpendicular cliffs, to be sure, but we should have them
creeping up a little way by the branches, and then stealing
back as soon as the dref has passed the place,—upon the whole,
though, I think my present plan is the best.”
“I really think it is,” said Moodie, “as far as I can judge
from seeing it on paper; but you seem to have a pretty large
country to drive, not less than twenty miles English in
length. What number do you muster?”
“Not above fifteen hundred or two thousand at the most,”
said Bjornstjerna, “though I have called out five parishes;
but look at the place, it seems cut out for a skal,—half-a-dozen
boats will guard the river, which is navigable in its
whole length till you come to the rapids which flank your
position, and not a bear will go near the houses, as you
know, or face the open ground, if he can possibly help it,—so
much for our right flank; while for the other, a small
picket at each of the water-courses, will be quite sufficient to
guard them till the dref has passed, and then the picket can
either strengthen the other guards farther on, or reinforce
our line, or join you at the hållet, according as they are
wanted. Then, since the cliffs keep approaching the river, in
proportion as we drive forward so our line will be strengthened
by the men closing on each other, till, in the end, when the
beasts begin to break out, we shall be able to send you a reinforcement
of two or three hundred men, for we shall have
more than we want.”
“That will do,” said Moodie; “we shall have a glorious
skal, I see, and I give you great credit for making the most
of your men.”
“The truth is, I have quite as many men as I want—I
have never been at a loss for them; what I have been at a
loss for, hitherto, is officers, for the Indelta has been unexpectedly
summoned to Stockholm, and with them I have lost
almost every man who knows how to command.”
“Why not wait till they come back?” said Birger; “they
never keep the Indelta out for more than three weeks, and I
am sure the ‘Fur-clothed Disturbers’ would wait for you:” (no
Swede ever mentions the bear’s name, if he can possibly
help it).
“Yes,” said Bjornstjerna, “but after that the militia is
to be called out, and if I get my officers I should lose my
men—aye, and two-thirds of the women, too. How many
women do you think would turn out, if you took away all
the men between the ages of twenty and twenty-five? And
let me tell you that the women, though the law does not
allow us to press them into the service, are just as useful as
the men,—and in the dref, where all you want is to drive
the game forward, a great deal more so, for they talk twice
as much, and their screams, and squalls, and laughter, are
heard as far again as the men’s shouts. O, by the Thousand!
I had rather lose my men than my women. But you gentlemen
are a perfect Godsend; I shall do very well for officers
now. Herr Modige is kind enough to take the hållet,
and, whether you like it or no, Master Lieutenant, you
will have the charge of that skal-arm which furnishes the
pickets.”
“Well, I suppose I must obey my superior officer;
I wish they treated us Lieutenants of the Guards as
well as they do those of England, and then I should be
Captain as well as you—commanding you, perhaps, if I happened
to be senior.”
“Would you, my boy? I would have you to know that
I rank a Colonel now,—I write ‘Hof’ before my name.”
“Upon my soul, old fellow, I congratulate you; I do
not know any one who deserves it better.”
“No more do I,” said Bjornstjerna, “and I must say
that it is not often that the Förste Hof Jagmästere shows
such a specimen of discrimination. However, to business.
Along the left flank of the dref, you will see that in the
course of our beat there are some fifteen or twenty places
where game can escape by climbing up the water courses.
At each of these you will post a picket, strong or weak,
according to the nature of the ground. Herr Länsman, can
you furnish the Lieutenant with a man who knows the
country?”
The Länsman, or tax-gatherer, who in these remote districts
acts as police officer, and is, in fact, the sole representative
of majesty, offered his own services in that capacity.
“Very good,” said the Ofwer Jagmästere, “then you will
point out the particulars; but, to help you, I have marked all
the more practicable passages with red crosses. Here, however,
is your principal danger—in fact, it is that which made me
hesitate about establishing the hållet where it is. You see
where this cow-path leads to the hills—the path, I mean,
which I have just pointed out to Herr Modige as the place
where I wish him to arrange the shooting line; carry your
eye onward to where it ascends the hills; that is an easy
pass, such as you can ride up, and it is so close to the hållet
that any beast that turns at the line, would naturally dash
at the opening. Here you must post a very strong force.”
“I cannot do better than put my English friends there,”
said Birger, who saw at a glance that this was the very
crack post of the whole line; “I will venture to say that
their rifles will not allow anything to pass alive through that
opening, from an elk to a rabbit.”
“Hush, not a word about elks,” said Bjornstjerna;
“neither they nor stags must be touched—the new law is
very strict about that.”
“It is very difficult to tell one beast from another, in the
thick juniper,” said Birger; “I never could myself.”
The Ofwer Jagmästere laughed, but put on an official frown.
“Do you know, Birger,” said the Parson, “I should like
to be your aide-de-camp better than to hold any definite
post; I could carry your orders, you know.”
“And deliver them in English or French,” said Birger;
“I shall have a very effective aide-de-camp indeed. However,
if you like it, I will give you the post, and I think you
are right; you will see more in that way than in any other,
and you can reinforce the post of danger whenever you are
tired. Indeed, you may as well consider it your home
during the skal. Would the Captain, then, take charge of
that point?”
The Captain was quite willing, and promised to give a
good account of it.
“Well, then,” said Birger, “I shall not want Piersen to-morrow,
so you may have him, and your own man Tom, and
Jacob for cook. The Parson will probably take Torkel, but
I dare say the Länsman can find you an intelligent Swede,
who knows the ground and can understand a few words of
English, and three or four fellows for sentries; that will be
quite enough for you, for the Parson and Torkel will join you,
and be under your orders before there is anything serious.”
Here the Ofwer Jagmästere spoke a few words in Swedish to
Birger, who laughed and replied—“No, no, certainly not; I
am confident he would consider it an honour of no small
magnitude to bear a commission in our service. The fact
is,” continued he, addressing the Captain, “everything in
these skaller is arranged according to military discipline,
and everyone here has military rank. And as you have to
command a picket, you would not object to hold a temporary
commission, not quite equal to your own in the English
service.”
“Object!” said the Captain, “O, no—delighted, of course!”
“Then give me your cap,” said Birger. “Hand me over
that chalk, Bjornstjerna;” and he wrote upon its peak the
mystic letters, “S.F.,” being the initials of Skal Fogde;
and accordingly the Captain took rank as full sergeant in the
Swedish army.
“Now, then,” said the Jagmästere, “as I have arranged
matters so satisfactorily here, I will start at once for Lysvik,
where I have ordered the dref to assemble. I shall have
enough to do to-morrow morning, as you may imagine,—what
with numbering the men, and appointing their skalfogdar,
and seeing them at their stations, the commander has
no easy life of it. As for you, Moodie, I need not tell you
your business—you know it as well as I do myself,—but
begin appointing your skalfogdar the first thing to-morrow.
You need not wait for your full complement of men, they
will drop in in the course of the day; but as your best men
are sure to be the first, appoint at once; at twelve precisely
write the numbers in their hats, as they stand, and we will
fine all that come later than that. That, Mr. Länsman,
must be your business; but first of all look out for Lieutenant
Birger fifty of your best men. That,” turning to Moodie,
“will leave you nearly five hundred, which is quite as much
as you can want, as the boats will be manned from my party.
You, Birger, will march at daybreak, for I must have every
picket posted by twelve, at which time we move forward
with the dref. Now, Lönner, my horse, as quick as you
please, for we have seven quarters to go before we sleep.”
The Ofwer Jagmästere might almost be said to “exit speaking,”
for he continued his speech into the porch, and the last
words were lost in the canter of his little hog-maned pony, as
he floundered off, followed by Lönner and a couple of orderlies,
together with the Länsmen of the two other parishes, who
had met him by appointment at Ostmarkand, and now
formed his personal staff.
Moodie, who was now in command, hesitated for a moment
whether he should exercise it by clearing the inn for the
sleeping accommodation of himself and friends, but, on turning
the matter over in his mind, the interior looked so dirty and
stuffy, and was withal so redolent of tobacco, brandy, and
aniseed, while the exterior was so fresh and green, and the
moon was shining down so softly, and the air was so still, and
the camp fires so bright and inviting, that, with universal consent
and approbation, he adjourned the divisional head-quarters
to a spreading fir-tree, whose branches were illuminated
by a fire worthy of a General; while the provident
Jacob, who had tilted the carioles on end, to form a sort of
screen, spread out before them the contents of his ambulatory
larder.
This was soon discussed, and then a quiet pipe, a moderate
horn of brandy and water, a hopeful good night, a roll in
their cloaks, and before their heads were well on their knapsacks,
the whole four were in the fairy land of sleep and
forgetfulness.
CHAPTER XXII. THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE SKAL.
“When shaws beene sheene and shrads full fayre,
And leaves both large and long,
’Tis merry walking in the fayre forest,
To hear the small birde’s song.”
Robin Hood.
“These mounds I yet may clamber,
And look on the rocks so grey,—
On these huge stones on the summits
I can lie, as oft I lay.
“And if it soughs in the forest,
In the beechwood’s native land,—
And if the wave roars deeply,
I nod to sea and strand.
“O, never my heart forgetteth
The cairn, the wood, and the strand,—
For my heart is only at home in
The warrior’s fatherland.”
Holger Danske-Ingemann.
The sun had not yet lighted up the spires of the fir-trees,
when a buzz of voices and a shuffling of feet broke the slumbers
of the head-quarters party. Länsman Matthiesen, true
to his word, had not slept before he had picked out his fifty
mountaineers, chalking their hats at the back with the letters
“H.F.,” standing for hög fjeld, or the high forest, indicating
the position they were to occupy.
While Birger was still rubbing his eyes and kicking up
Jacob to boil the morning’s coffee, Matthiesen was numbering
them from 1 to 50, with chalk, in the front of their hats,
and selecting their skalfogdar, who were marked, as the Captain
had been on the preceding evening, with the letters “S.F.”
It is usual to appoint a skalfogde to every ten men; but, as
these were to be divided into small parties, it was thought
expedient to appoint one to every five, it being understood
that, whenever any of these parties were united, the skalfogde
whose number was lowest should reckon as senior, and
command the whole.
Fire-arms are not very plentiful in any part of Sweden,
but Matthiesen had so picked his men, that about one-fifth
of them had something of the sort,—most of these weapons
looking very much more formidable to the sportsmen who
carried them than to the game at which they were pointed.
The rest were armed with poles, many of which had spikes
at the end. Here and there was an old sword or a pistol
that had seen service in the Thirty years’ War; but most of
the men carried very efficient axes,—an excellent weapon
against a tree, and not a bad one with a bear in close conflict,
if such a thing ever does take place in a skal; but the
fact is, the beasts on these occasions are so completely cowed,
that they rarely, if ever, show fight.
The men had been searched that morning, and all their
brandy taken from them, and the rest of their provisions
examined, to see if there was enough to last out the number
of days for which they had been summoned. But, before
starting, Birger served out to each a horn of hot coffee from
Jacob’s soup kettle, with a double allowance of sugar in it;
for if there is anything that comes near to brandy in the
estimation of a Swede, it is sugar, which he eats and drinks
whenever he can get it, like a very child.
Birger then, having first taken a careful survey of the whole
plan of the skal, a copy of which Matthiesen had placed in
his hand, summoned the Parson and Torkel, and, placing
himself at the head of his party, gave the word to march.
This was obeyed in a very military fashion,—for every Swede
is or has been a militia-man, and is very proud of his soldiering,—and
the party was soon lost among the green shades of
the forest.
Moodie watched them very composedly, and then quietly
set himself down to breakfast, not a little to the discomposure
of the Captain, who, if he had had his will, would have been
walking sentry on his post with his rifle in his hand, looking
out fiercely for the bears,—a proceeding which, as the dref
or driving party was not to move till noon, and then would
be twenty miles from the scene of action, evinced, to say
the least of it, more zeal than discretion.
The Captain need not, however, have disquieted himself,
for the preparations all that time were going steadily forward.
Moodie, having selected six of the most experienced hunters
as Adjutanter or lieutenants, left them to nominate and chalk
off the fifty Skalfogdar which his party required, and to distribute
the men into tens in such a way that every part of
the line should be equally provided with fire-arms. The
farmer who owned the land had offered his services as personal
attendant, or what the Jagmästere had called Quartermaster-General;
and Moodie, quite aware that the authorities
of the place, who knew the characters and capabilities of the
men, would set in order these details much better than he
could, permitted them to manage things their own way, and
interfered but little with their arrangements.
It was not before ten that everything was put into proper
order, and the little flags prepared which were to mark out the
ground; but then Moodie readily enough got his men into
marching order, and proceeded to take up the position. This
was distant about four miles (English) from the place of
meeting; the road to it leading down the glade, and at right
angles to the direction taken by Birger and his party that
morning.
If Moodie had seemed apathetic and dilatory while others
were capable of doing the work, there was no want of energy
in him when the party had arrived at the ground. His
orders were given with that distinctness and decision which
evinces an intimate acquaintance with the business in hand,
and ensures the prompt obedience of all engaged in it.
Two of the Adjutanter, with three men from each skalfogde’s
command were detached to establish the line which
the hållet was finally to occupy, and to mark out with little
flags of white calico, on which were painted their numbers,
the post of each subdivision. In the meanwhile the main
strength of his party were engaged in preparing the mountain
road which the Jagmästere had pointed out for what is
termed the shooting line,—that is to say, the line on which
the dref or driving division was finally to halt, having thus
enclosed the game in the patch of wood between it and the
hållet, which is called the skalplats.
The shooting line was formed, by cutting down the junipers
and lower branches of the trees for about twenty yards
on each side of a mountain road which ran parallel to the
front of the position; but the great labour was to remove
everything that had been cut, for, had such evident traces of
man’s work been left, not one single head of game would
have ventured across the clearing. For this reason, also,
Moodie began his work in this place, leaving the clearing of
his own line for future operations, in order that he might
give time for the scent to clear away,—and therefore it is,
that when the shooting line is once formed, no one is ever
permitted to cross till the dref arrives, driving the game
before them.
The peculiar kind of the ground had, in this instance,
caused the skalplats to be made very much larger than is
usual; in fact, it was nearly half a mile deep, and very much
more than half a mile in front width—and from this it would
be difficult to dislodge game which had been thoroughly
frightened. But Moodie’s English education had suggested
a remedy: besides the main shooting line, the axe-men
were instructed to subdivide the skalplats by parallel
“rides,” as they are called in an English cover, running from
front to rear, so that a marksman placed at the end of any
of these would have a fair shot, as the game moved from one
block of forest to another.
All this, however, was a work of time as well as labour,
and though four hundred men were employed about it, and
though they worked as men work who combine pleasure with
duty, the day was far advanced, and the skal had begun for
some hours before Moodie took his final survey, and, dispatching
the Captain and his party to their post in the mountains,
withdrew his workmen to their own position on the reverse
slope of the spur. Having posted his sentries on the crest of
the hill, he dismissed the remainder to procure their suppers,
and to make themselves as comfortable as was consistent
with extreme watchfulness.
Long before any serious impression had been made by
Moodie, on the shooting line, Birger and the remains of his
party had reached his farthest post, having taken his route
along the crest of the heights. Calculating his time with
military precision, he had visited the heads of all the
different passes, stationing at each a picket, the strength of
which was in proportion to its ascertained importance, or
blocking it up with an abattis of trees—a very easy thing to
do, for the bear, when his suspicions are fairly roused, turns
readily at the slightest appearance of a trap. And now, as
the minute hand of his watch indicated twelve, a fact which
he took care to point out to the Parson, Matthiesen was in
the act of displaying from the branch of a dead fir tree
which overhung the precipice, the long fluttering slip of
white calico, which not only marked out the position of the
pass to those below, but was the agreed signal that it was
occupied.
The day was bright and hot, as a northern summer’s day
generally is, and within the cover of the woods not a breath of
wind had been felt; but on the exposed cliff, where they
then stood, or rather lay—for the recumbent was decidedly
the favourite position;—a light and refreshing air was just
creeping up the sides of the cliffs, stirring the feathery leaves
of the birches, but leaving the heavier foliage at rest.
It was a joyous scene, as the eye traversed the tops of the
great forest stretched out like a map below, and traced the
different colours of the foliage—here was a thick, close array
of firs, forming a solid column, of miles in extent—there were
the serried ranks of the spiry spruce,—here, again, where the
axe had been at work selecting the best trees and leaving
the rest to succeed as chance had planted, there was a
broad, park-like expanse full of juniper underwood, bordered, it
may be, by a belt of birch, the consequences of some forgotten
fire, or a patch of white poplars, indicating a marshy bit, or
a dozen or so of restless aspens, balancing their leaves when
all around was still;—here, again, was a svedgefall, as they
term the places where the wind gets under the branches of
the firs, and levels acres of them together. Sometimes these
form parks of exceeding beauty, as the young trees grow up
sparsely; but here and there, where they are too small to be
worth removing, they lie, entangled with weeds and undergrowth,
a mass of rottenness and a stronghold of Bruin, out of
which it will sometimes take hours to drive him.
Here and there, too, was a sœter, or, as we are now in Sweden,
a satterval, or mountain pasture farm, with its low roof of
pine-branches and its meadow of rough hay, which generally
stood in large cocks, ready to be removed as soon as the snow
should form a road; round most of these, groups of cattle
might be seen; but there was no smoke from their chimneys,
for every human being was at the skal.
Far in the distance, indeed too far to be seen, except
where the sun lighted up its waters and returned a dazzling
reflection, was the river, already guarded by its fleet of boats,
though these were entirely invisible from the cliffs.
To the southward, the range of heights sank gradually
into the plain, which here was traversed by the main road,
cutting both the ridge and the river at right angles.
Beyond this, all was one black, dreary, desolate wilderness,
without a shrub, or a bush, or a blade of grass; nothing but
bare, grey, ghost-like trunks of dead trees, stretching forth
their charred and blackened branches, and looking as if a
curse was resting on them. Three years ago that blackened
track had been a flourishing pine forest, but the fire had
passed over it, and it was gone. According to a generally
received Swedish superstition, though the birch might succeed
it, no pine could grow there again for ever: the burnt
tree had been cursed in itself and in its seed.
This superstition is actually borne out by fact: cut a pine-forest,
and a pine-forest succeeds it; burn a pine-forest, and
the succeeding trees, when they do again clothe the ground,
are invariably birch. In reality, this is not so strange as it
seems at first sight; the fir is the natural seed of the
country, and the young fir is the hardiest tree,—wherever
that tree will grow no other can compete with it; but its
seed is heavy, and cannot fall far from the parent tree, when
once vegetation is destroyed,—the fir-seed can never travel
into the wasted land; but the birch-seed flies in the wind,
and its young seedlings are invariably the first green which
succeeds a fire.
This black wilderness was one cause among many which
had induced the Jagmästere to select this particular spot for
his skal; no game would willingly break through his line
when they knew that miles of uncovered country must be
traversed before they could again find shelter. He had,
therefore, that morning marshalled his dref along the high
road, by placing them in position there, and numbering their
hats as they stood, from the centre to each flank; but, true
to his word, no sooner had the white flag fluttered from
Birger’s post, than his bugle sounded the advance along his
whole line, and the skal was already begun.
The Parson and Birger, whose work for that morning was
done, were seated on the outer ridge, with their feet fairly
overhanging the precipice, reconnoitring with their glasses the
progress of the dref, as here and there the men emerged into
a more open space, which the skalfogdar were taking advantage
of, in order to reform or repair their line, and
re-establish their communications with the parties right and
left of them.
Every now and then a sudden shout, followed by half-a-dozen
shots, marking the place by a light puff of smoke,
(Swedish powder makes plenty of that), would point the
glasses to some particular spot,—but on no occasion was any
game visible from above.
According to law, all shouting is strictly forbidden in
skals, and so is firing at small game, and so is the presence
of women or boys, upon the express count that they are too
noisy; but these laws seem to have been made for no other
purpose except that the people might enjoy the pleasure of
hunting and breaking the law at the same time, for no one
ever thinks of keeping them; shouting is incessant, women
are plentiful, and, as for shooting at small game, the best
chance a cock-robin stands of his life consists in the very
great probability of a Swedish piece missing fire, or a
Swedish marksman missing his aim.
And, indeed, it is universally admitted by the moderns
that their forefathers were in error; that not only shouts and
musketry are useful in keeping up the men’s pluck and
pointing out to each other their whereabouts, but they are
positively of advantage in driving the game. When the ring
is once completed, either by artificial or natural means, and
the game is fairly surrounded, it is far better that it should
be aroused by distant shouts, and should be suffered to slink
off quietly and unseen, approaching by degrees the hållet,
where, after all, it must be brought up by the standing line,
than that it should be surprised by the dref advancing in
silence. A startled bear is just as likely to bolt backwards
as forwards, and, if he does, the chances are that he gets off
scot free. He must be an unlucky bear, indeed, who, at the
earlier part of a skal, and before the men have closed in,
charges the line and gets more than one shot at him; and a
most particularly unlucky bear must he be if that shot takes
effect, whereas it is just as likely to take effect on some
Jan or Karl, who stands with his eyes and mouth open as
the “Disturber” rushes by,—and thus affords, in his own
person, the only chance of a sitting shot, which Swedes
delight in;—indeed, this is almost the only way in which
accidents do happen in skals; the bear very seldom revenges
himself, but he now and then gets people to do it for
him.
The Parson sat reclining against a rock, very much at his
ease, sometimes watching the progress of the skal, sometimes
picking off the stalks from a quantity of ground-mulberries[50]
which he had gathered during that morning’s march.
Indeed, the Parson, in the course of that march, had succeeded
in making a very pretty figure of himself: his knowledge
of botany amounted simply to a desire of appropriating to
himself every unusual flower he came across; so that by the
end of the day his hat, which was of that description popularly
known as a wide-awake, was generally surrounded by a
garland fit for a May-queen.
In the present instance, the front of his hat exhibited a
purple plume of the “laf-reseda,” which perfumed the air
around him with an odour like that of the night-scented
stock. He had placed it there not so much for that or for
its beauty, as because, like the ground-mulberry, it is never
seen south of the latitude in which they then were—not even
in the south of Sweden. Twining round the hat-band was a
wreath of “Baldur’s brow,” a beautiful white flower, dedicated
in heathen times to the god of Innocence, and still
bearing his name, and retaining a portion of its ancient
sanctity.[51] The lily of the valley, which in Sweden signifies
much the same as it does in England, formed its appropriate
companion; and so might the heart’s-ease, which fairly tinged
the hill sides with blue and yellow, had it retained any
equivalent to its English appellation; but in Sweden it is
called “skart-blom,” and is appropriated to the Devil. It is
the flower the witches decorate themselves with when they
ride by night to the Satanic rendezvous, and dance infernal
polkas in the wilds of Blaakulla.
“See!” said Birger, “look at that white flag! there it is,
glancing against the corner of those firs in the svedgefall;
now you see another in a line with it,—that is the Ordningsman
and his party; he marks the centre of the advancing
line. Before they started, the Jagmästere will have given
him his precise bearing from the centre of the hållet, and
his business is to attend neither to the bears nor to the
beating, but to advance steadily on his own line; for that
purpose he has those three flagsmen allotted to him. There,
you see that fellow on the farther edge of the svedgefall,
showing his flag from that black-looking fir?—look
through your glass, and you will easily make out the
Ordningsman himself; there he is, with his compass in his
hand, close by the farthest flag; he is taking the bearings of
the first man that we made out; and there is the third now
advancing to take up a new position. What he has to do is
to keep those flags always in the straight line, and all the
rest dress from him.”
Just then, the Jagmästere rode, or rather clambered, into
the svedgefall on his little cream-coloured pony, which,
accustomed to the work, scrambled about the fallen trees
more like a dog than a horse. He was attended by a large
party on foot; one of these, who might be termed his
orderly, had to lead his horse round by the forest cattle tracks,
whenever it happened, as it very frequently did happen, that
the under-stuff was too thick for a horseman to traverse.
His right wing, which had been beating the easier and
more open country towards the river, had got some distance
in advance, and he was evidently directing the Ordningsman
to halt in the svedgefall till the left had time to come up.
Messengers were dispatched right and left; the bugles began
to sound, some the “advance” and some the “halt,” and those
parts of the line which had begun to emerge from the trees,
were seen collecting in little groups in different attitudes of
rest, lighting their pipes, or visiting their havresacs for their
mid-dag’s mad of black bread and hard white cheese.
Before long the left wing, the advanced flank of which
was under their feet, made itself to be both heard and seen.
The ground here was much more difficult, because at the
immediate foot of the cliff the debris of ages had formed
themselves into a very steep slope. This part, rugged and
uneven with fallen blocks of stone, was covered with a close
brake of underwood, not only of juniper, but of hazels and
rowan bushes, all matted together by brambles,—as well as
birch and ash, the last of which, winding its long roots among
the stones, had in most places attained the dignity of timber
trees.
Well aware that every head of game disturbed along the
whole line would, if possible, seek refuge here, the Jagmästere
had intended that his left wing should be thrown forward,
and had allotted a hundred men, under the most
experienced of his Adjutanter, to search the ground well,
keeping a mile or so in advance of the line. The eagerness
of the men on first starting had somewhat disturbed this
arrangement, for at the beginning the cover, along the greater
part of the line, had consisted of firs, which not only screened
the men from the eyes of their officers, but, by destroying the
under-stuff, permitted them to get forwards without any great
exertion. It was to rectify this that the halt had been called.
“What is that?” said the Parson, jumping up and scattering
half his mulberries down the precipice, as a rush of
wings came sharp round the corner of the rock, and a great
cock-tjäder, as big as a turkey, came close over his head, and
dashed into the firs that crested the hill.
“That,” said Birger, unslinging his rifle, “that is a hint
that we ought to keep a better look-out;—not that we should
have had that fellow though, for, awkward and heavy as
they seem, they rush along like a round shot, when once they
get into their flight. But never mind, we shall have more
of them presently—mind where you shoot, though, if you use
your rifle,—there will be a peasant or two knocked over
before we have done, most likely. We do not think much
of that, but you would not like to be playing Archbishop
Abbott[52] yourself, would you?”
The Parson laughed, as he examined and poised his double-barrelled
gun—for the rifle was in the charge of Torkel,—and
made a successful right and left shot among a covey of
orre grouse that were skimming over the tree-tops at his
feet.
“Oh, if you stick to small shot,” said Birger, who had
despatched a human retriever down the watercourse to pick
up the birds, “you may fire away in the men’s faces if you
like; there is not a Swede who would not stand the chance
of a peppered jacket, to be able to pick up an article of
game,”—a sentiment fully confirmed by the grinning faces of
the picket, for whose benefit he had translated his words.
“But we are not likely to have bears coming up to us, if
we keep up such a popping as this,” said the Parson.
“‘A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush;’ if there
are bears within the skal, depend upon it we shall get them,
sooner or later. Fire away! most of us like a broiled grouse
for supper.”
“Here goes for the bird of Yggdrasil,” as a magnificent
peregrine falcon came floating through the air, as if by the
mere act of volition; “he shall never sit again between
the eyes of the eagle.”[53]
Birger had, however, miscalculated his distance, for the
bird, taking no more notice of his shot than if they had been
hailstones, sailed quietly on his course, without turning to
the right or left.
“The bird of the gods bears a charmed life,” said the
Parson, “it is no use firing at him. Come, load away! look
sharp, or you will lose your next chance.”
Game, however, is nowhere very plentiful, either in Norway
or in Sweden; and though every eye in the picket was on
the look-out, nothing more was seen, except a blue Alpine
hare, that came quietly lopping up the watercourse, and sat
on its hind legs, innocently looking Matthiesen in the face
during the minute and half in which he was taking aim;
the shot, however, was successful at last, and puss was destined
to supply the evening kettle.
“If you want a chance at big game,” said Birger, “I will
tell you what you should do; it is altogether against the
law, no doubt—and that is one of the few laws relating to
skals that ought to be observed;—but if you were to slip
down one of these watercourses with Torkel, and take your
course quietly and silently through the fjeld, keeping four or
five miles ahead of the dref, more unlikely things have happened
than that you should set your eyes upon some beast
or other stealing off. You have got your compass, and you
cannot be lost in a little strip of a forest like this, not half a
dozen miles across. Besides, every stream you come to runs
from our pickets, which you may always reach by following
it. You can always distinguish them in the day-time by
their flags, and if you should be overtaken by night—”
“If I should,” said the Parson, “there is nothing I should
like better. Torkel will soon get up a fire. I have plenty
of provisions in my havresac, and a little of the contraband,
too,” he added, shaking his bottle; “they forgot to search
me; so that if we should be out at night, we will try if we
cannot make a night of it.”
“So be it, then,” said Birger; “be early at the Captain’s
post, that is all, for you may depend upon it, if I know anything
of the lie of the country, there will be sport there long
before the dref comes up. You will probably find me there
before you.”
“Au revoir, then,” said the Parson, as he swung himself
off the cliff on which he had been sitting, into the boughs of
an ash, and thus dropped into the watercourse; down this
he disappeared, with Torkel after him, floundering, crashing,
and rolling the stones before him.
CHAPTER XXIII. THE SATTERVAL.
“’Tis merry, ’tis merry, in good greenwood,
Though the birds have stilled their singing;
The evening blaze doth Alice raise,
And Richard is faggots bringing.”
Alice Brand.
Avoiding the advanced column of the dref, which had halted
just short of the watercourse, the Parson and his follower
took a line nearly parallel to that of the hills. It is no easy
thing to beat a Swedish forest, for there are every now and
then thick-tangled brakes, and grass-grown svedgefalls, and
occasionally, it may be, a little lake to break the line, causing
perpetual halts, since one part must necessarily wait for
another. But simply making a passage through a Swedish
forest is almost as easy as walking on plain turf:—here
there will be a wide patch of high pines, under which nothing
will grow,—then there will be actual green glades of considerable
length, with short mountain turf, broken only by tufts
of lilies of the valley, or, perhaps, whortleberry or cranberry
plants; and everywhere, when the trees are young, or have
been cut, and the understuff has been permitted to come
up thick, the whole space is intersected by cattle paths,—for
all the fjeld is divided into sœters belonging to the lowland
farms, forming the summer runs for their cattle.
The Parson and his follower, therefore, had no difficulty
in leaving the whole line behind them, so that first their
shouts and then the reports of their firearms were lost in the
distance, and the forest, soon to be so busy with life, looked
as quiet and lonely as if it never could echo sounds louder
than the coo of the wood-pigeon.
After five or six miles’ walking, the closeness of the air
under the trees began to tell upon them—more especially as
this afternoon’s excursion had been preceded by a morning’s
walk of sixteen or seventeen miles, and neither of them felt
at all sorry when, in a natural opening of the forest, the
rough enclosures of a sœter came into view.
“Come,” said Torkel, “we shall get some brandy here,
anyhow.” He was mistaken, however, for no living thing
was to be found there, except a dog tied to a stump (for
dogs are strictly forbidden in skals), that at first made the
forest ring with its barking, but soon became reconciled to
the intruders by that sort of free-masonry, whatever be the
cause of it, which always exist between a dog and a sportsman.
“At all events, they must have milk here,” he said, “and
I am not sure whether, just now, I had not rather find milk
than brandy.”
The Parson laughed at Torkel’s unusual feelings of sobriety,
but quite participated in his longing for milk. This
they found, and plenty of it, for the single room of the
cabin was full of vessels, shoved in anywhere, as if the
milkers had been in such a hurry to complete a task which
they could not have neglected without spoiling their cows,
that they had not given themselves time to put their milk
away.
Torkel went down on his hands and knees, put his mouth
into a bucket that stood near the door, and drank away as if—like
Odin, when he wheedled Gunlauth into letting him
take a sip from the cup of poetic inspiration—he meant to
drain it to the very bottom, and then set to upon a sort of
cake that he found strung upon a cord between two of the
rafters, which looked something like a number of round,
thin discs, of semi-transparent paste, with holes punched out
of the centre to hang them up by.[54]
The Parson, who was not less thirsty and exhausted,
evinced a little more moderation than this “hog of the flock
of Epicurus;” he was content with filling his horn occasionally
at the milkpail, and floating in it a handful of cranberries,
bushels of which were growing wherever a glimpse of sunshine
could penetrate the canopy of foliage, “incarnading”
with their red berries the turf of the whole forest, “and
making the green one red.”
The refreshment was, as Torkel had observed, better than
brandy, and both felt quite sufficiently invigorated for a fresh
journey; but their present quarters looked very comfortable,—the
shadows of the evening were fast lengthening,
and they had already advanced far beyond any point which
the skal could be expected to reach that day. They remained,
therefore, comfortably sitting on the rail fence, and
looking down the grassy glade, without any intention of going
farther that night. Since diving into the forest they had not
seen a head of game of any kind, except a flock (for it hardly
deserved a more sportsman-like appellation) of the smaller
description of grouse, which Torkel, whose eyes were everywhere,
had detected on the higher branches of one of the
trees. Three of these the Parson had brought down in the
most pot-hunting and unsportsman-like fashion, by getting
them into a line as they sat, and bringing them down as
a boy massacres fieldfares. These Torkel was indolently
picking, and preparing for the frying-pan, an article which is
generally to be found in a sœter, while, at the same time, he
kept a professional eye on the glade. The Parson, sitting
beside him, was as indolently pulling off the fruit of the
hägg, a sort of wild cherry, a clump of which overshadowed
the fence on which they were sitting, and afforded them a
partial cover from any quick-sighted animal coming up from
the forest.
“I do not like these great summer skals,” said he. “If you
really want to see sport you should come here in the winter,
when the snow is on the ground,—that is the time for a man to
set his wits against ‘old Fur Jacket,’—to ring him in the snow—to
look out for his den—to turn him out—to dash after him
through the snow on our skier—to follow him day after day—to
camp on his track—and after him again as soon as
day breaks, and at last, after a week’s hunting, perhaps, to
run in upon him and put a rifle-ball upon his head. All
this too is done quietly,—a party of two or three at the
most,—not mobbing the poor devil to death in this fashion,—that
is the thing that tries a man’s talents as a hunter.
In such a skal as this, one of those squalling women could
knock over a bear as well as the best of us, if she happened
to meet with him; he very seldom shows fight, either, in the
summer time,—he sees he is overmatched, and gives it up as a
bad job; but in the winter, you may as well have a firm
heart and a steady hand before you bring your rifle to bear,
and you would be none the worse for a stout comrade to
stand beside you, with pike and knife.”
“The bear does charge them sometimes?” said the
Parson.
“Yes, if hit,” said Torkel, “or if he thinks you have got
him into a corner, otherwise he would always rather run
than fight. I remember one journey I had with two young
Englishmen a few years ago; we went to shoot in Nordre
Trondhjemsampt;—ah! you should go there if you want
shooting. I never saw such a place for grouse of all kinds,—aye,
and for deer too. Well, these Englishmen were
always wanting to find a bear,—they would not be satisfied
with the very best of sport, they kept saying that it would
never do to come from Norway without having a bearskin to
show their friends,—for all these Englishmen seem to think
that bears are the common game of the country.”
“We shot deer and grouse as many as we pleased, but we
did not so much as hear of a bear till we had given up shooting
altogether, and were travelling home, which we did
by the road through Ostersund, Hernösand, and Gefle.
When we got to the post-house at Skalstuga, the first on the
Swedish side of the mountains; early in the morning, long
before it was light, the cow-boy came in crying, and said
that a bear had just killed one of the cows. Off goes one of
our Englishmen, half naked, with his gun in his hand, just
as if he had nothing bigger to shoot than a hare. I caught
up an axe that was lying there and ran after him. Up he
comes, and stands right in the bear’s path, just as if he cared
no more for him than for a big dog, and fires away two barrels
right in his face. Lord! it was nothing but small shot, such
as he had been shooting grouse with, and the bear came at
him like Thor’s hammer. Just in the way, as luck would
have it, stood a sapling fir-tree; and I never could tell whether
the bear was blinded by the smoke, or whether some of
the small shot had taken him about the eyes, but he seemed
to take the tree for that which had hurt him, and he reared
himself up against it, and shook it, and fixed his teeth
in it, and shook it again, and seemed to mind nothing else,
till I stole up quietly behind him and drove the axe
into his skull. The Englishman never seemed to care a
bit about the danger he had escaped; all he said was,
‘Got him at last!’ ‘That’s the ticket!’ and shoved into my
hand more yellow and green notes than ever I saw there
before or since; and, for all he was so free with his money,
he went to the Länsman at Ostersund and got the bear’s
nose sealed, and touched the Government reward for it, just
like one of us, and then he tossed the money to me, and told
me to get drunk upon it.”
“Which you did, I’ll be sworn,” said the Parson.
“I believe I did!” said Torkel; “I was not fairly sober
for a good three days after it.”
“Hist! what is that,” said he, dropping, as he spoke, on
the inside of the fence, and motioning the Parson to do so
likewise.
A wolf came lolloping along with the slovenly gallop in
which that disreputable beast usually travels, looking as if it
had sat up all night drinking and was not quite sober yet.
The Parson laid down his gun, and quietly taking his rifle from
Torkel, cocked it, and lodged it upon an opening between the
planks. The wolf had not seen them, but came shambling
on, when, either scenting his enemies, or knowing by experience
the ineligibility of a path near fences, he edged away
towards the close covert, showing a portion of his ungainly
side at a long shot, and though looking as if he were lame of
all four legs at the same time, clearing the ground with his
immense and untiring strides faster than any dog could have
followed him.
Crack went the Parson’s rifle; but whether the wolf was
hit, or whether he knew what a rifle-shot meant, or whether
he so much as heard it, or saw the smoke, it was all the same;
his course was not altered, his pace was neither relaxed nor
quickened, he went lolloping on, just as when he was first
seen, and, as much at his ease as ever, disappeared in the
forest not a hundred yards from them.
“Missed him, by all that is unlucky!” said the Parson,
jumping up.
“There is no knowing,” said Torkel; “if you had hit him
it would have been all the same. Unless the shot strikes a
part immediately vital they take no notice of it.”
There was evidently nothing to be done; and, indeed, the
probabilities were that the Parson really had missed, for
there was not a vestige of blood to be seen on the turf; and
as the shades were closing in and the woods were getting too
dark to see anything, they returned to their comfortable
quarters, and, by bringing in one of the cocks of rushy hay,
they succeeded in making up on the floor of the hut two
couches, much more luxurious than anything they had enjoyed
since leaving Gäddebäck.
“That will do,” said Torkel; “it is a great piece of luck
that we happened upon this sœter. We shall make a
much better cookery of our grouse here than we should have
done under a tree in the fjeld. There must be a frying-pan
here somewhere, if we had only light to find it by.”
“Why do you not light the fire?” said the Parson; “that
will give you light enough, for this fuel is as dry as tinder,
and good honest birch, too, with some heart in it. You
must have a fire for cooking, whether you want it for light
or not, so heap up the hearth-stone at once.”
This was done as soon as said; and to the cheerful
blaze of dry and crackling fir succeeded the steady, candle-like
flame of the birch, lighting up the remotest corners, and
glancing on that indispensable requisite of mountain life
which Torkel had been seeking. Fresh butter, just from the
churn, is not altogether uneatable even in Sweden, and besides,
hunger is not nice; the Parson consumed, with considerable
relish, his own share of the grouse, and only wished
they had been as big as black game, or tjäder. Brandy
there certainly must have been somewhere in the hut, for
there never was a Swedish hut without; but so well was it
hidden, that all Torkel’s experience failed to bring it to light,
and, very much to the Parson’s delight, they were reduced to
milk, of which there was enough to supply the whole skal.
“Well,” said the Parson, who had succeeded in twisting
up his hay into a sort of chaise-longue, with a well-formed
cushion for his back, “I did not expect to have a roof over
my head; I must say this is a real piece of luxury. Why we
are better off than the Captain with his tents; everything
we want to our hands, and no host to ask for a reckoning.”
“That would not be over safe in the Hardanger-fjeld,” said
Torkel; “but I suppose Sweden is another thing: indeed, in
Norway it is only on the Hardanger that the thing is permitted.”
“What is permitted?” said the Parson.
“Why the ghosts of the damned,” said Torkel, “are permitted
to wander about the Hardanger as they please. No
great favour after all, as you would say if you had ever seen
the place; and when they see travellers coming they build
comfortable huts by the wayside, with fires burning, and
dry clothes, and plenty of brandy and good provisions, and
everything a man wants in order to make himself comfortable.
It would be pretty much of a temptation anywhere, and you
may fancy what it is on that exposed and treeless waste, where,
whenever it is not raining it is snowing, and if it is not snowing
it is raining. But if a man once enters and accepts the
hospitality, he is lost,—the rushing wind carries away the
house and all that is in it, and the travellers are never heard
of more.”
“You never happened upon a ghost-house yourself, did
you?” said the Parson.
“I never did,” said Torkel, “though I have been a good
deal on the Hardanger-fjeld in my day; it is a capital place
for ripar. But the truth is, these things are not so frequent
as they used to be. My father, though, once passed a very
uncomfortable night on the fjeld, and he never could make
out, to his dying day, whether the ghosts had or had not anything
to do with it.”
“How was that?” said the Parson, as he threw another
log on the fire, and stirred the embers into a good ghost-story-telling
blaze.
“In those days,” said Torkel, “we lived near Bykle, on
the upper Torjedahl, and grew a good deal of barley which
we could not very well consume ourselves, and had no means
to transport to Christiansand, where generally there is a pretty
good market for it. So my father set up a still, and drove a
good thriving trade with the country about Jordbrakke and
Skore, exchanging our brandy for their salt fish, an article
which is scarce enough in the Tellemark. My father used
generally to meet a trader, of the name of Nilssen, at what
is called a post-house, situated on a ridge that divides the
Torjedahl from the waters that flow into Wester Hafvet (the
North Sea). Why they called it a post-house I am sure I
do not know, for there is not a horse within a day’s journey
of it, nor a post-master neither, nor, indeed, any one else.
It was built by Government, no doubt, but you seldom saw
anything so bad at a common sœter. One miserable room
of ten feet square, the walls built of dry stones, with the
wind whistling in at one side and out at the other, which
was the only means of carrying off the smoke. Fuel there
was, and straw there was, for Government provides that,
and the post-master of the next station is responsible that
there shall always be a store of both; but Government says
nothing about the quality, and we used generally to find the
green bog myrtle which grows there, bad as it is, better fuel
and better bedding than either of them.
“One evening, about eight o’clock, my father arrived at
the usual place, having appointed a meeting with Nilssen,
but when he came there he could nowhere find the hut. He
recognised the place well enough, there was no missing that;
there was the deep still lake, the waters of which contained
no living thing,—there it was, as black as ever; there, too,
was that old mass of whinstone, which used to form the back
of the hut, and always had a stream of moisture trickling
down it, but no house was to be seen, and, what made matters
worse was, that a thick mountain mist had come on,
with driving rain, which felt as if every spiteful little drop
was a needle. My father looked disconsolately along the
track, and fancied he saw, through the blinding fog, the
gleam of a fire; he went on some fifty yards, and there, sure
enough, was a nice comfortable hut, water-tight and weather-tight,
with the door wide open, a bright fire on the hearth,
and two or three rounds of flad bröd and a Dutch cheese on
the great stone in the middle which did duty for a table,—but
not a soul was there.
“My father was not easily frightened; he was an old
sailor, and had helped to catch many of your English traders
during the last war. He could have looked down the throat
of a cannon, and did pretty near, for he was on board the
Najaden when the Dictator sank her; but he did not much
fancy being damned, for all that. So he looked and looked
at the merry blaze that smiled its welcome through the door,
and watched the cheese and the flad bröd which seemed to be
dancing in its light, but for all that he laid himself down
under the lee of a rock, and cold, and wet, and miserable,
wished for morning, for the wind blew, and the rain kept
pelting away all night, till he thought it would have floated
him, rock and all, into the Normand’s Laagen; and there, all
the time, was the fire blazing away, till it subsided into a
glowing heap of red-hot embers.
“Towards morning he fell into a miserable sleep, and when
he woke up the mist was gone, the sun was shining brightly,
and there was not a shred of cloud to be seen. The first
thing he put his eyes upon was Nilssen, coming up from the
shores of the lake, and looking as wet, and as cold, and as
wretched as he was.
“‘Ah,’ said Nilssen, ‘so you have been lost in the fog,
like me. My misfortune was all my own fault, too. I got here
yesterday in very good time, and lighted the fire, and made
all comfortable, and then I must needs be fool enough to
start after a covey of ripar, that I did not get a shot at after
all; and then the mist came on, and I could not find my
way back. A wretched night I have passed, I can tell you.’
“‘What,’ said my father, ‘was it you who lighted that
fire?’
“‘To be sure I did,’ said Nilssen, ‘who else should? Men
are not so plentiful in this cursed place.’
“‘And you are not damned, after all?’
“‘Not that I know of,’ said Nilssen.
“‘That is not the old hut, though, I will take my oath.’
“‘No,’ said Nilssen, ‘it is not; the other was very nearly
to pieces, as you may recollect, when we were last here. The
roof fell in not a month after that, and then the authorities
of the three Ampts contrived to settle their differences, and
do what they ought to have done years ago—build a new one
at their joint expense. They have not made a bad job of it.
Come in, you are cold enough.’
“‘And I have been lying out in this cursed rain and wind
all night,’ said my father, ‘with a good fire before my eyes,
and a warm roof within fifty yards of me, fancying all the
while that you were damned, and that you wanted to take
me off to the Devil along with you! What a confounded
fool I have been!’
“But I am not sure that my father was such a fool either,”
continued Torkel, “for Nilssen died very soon after that; in
fact, he had caught a bad cold during that night, and as he
had sold us a lot of bad fish, I have no doubt he was damned;
at all events, it is quite true that from that day forward my
father was never entirely free from the rheumatism, and this
in his latter days, when he began to get religious, he always
attributed to the sight of the fire in the post-house; for he
never was without his misgivings that Nilssen had been
damned before he met him. He once went as far as Hardnæs
to ask the priest about it, and he said that the idea was new
to him, certainly, but that he would not take upon himself
to pronounce it impossible. To the very end of his life, my
father used to congratulate himself upon the fortitude and
self-denial he had evinced during that terrible night, ‘because,’
said he, ‘if the bare sight of that fire through the mist was
visited so severely, no one can say what would have been the
consequence had I sat by it all night.’”
“No,” said the Parson, solemnly, “no one can.”
“You see,” said Torkel, “the whole question hinges on the
fact whether Nilssen was damned or not; now he certainly
did take us in about the fish—we were obliged to throw
away half of it. I should like very much to have your
opinion on the subject.”
“Why,” said the Parson, gravely, “will you take upon
yourself to say, on your conscience, as a Christian man, that
there was no potato-haulm in the wash from which your
brandy was distilled?”
Torkel laughed, and rubbed his hands at the recollection.
“No,” said he, “that I will not; I do not think the old
scoundrel made much by us, after all.”
“Well, if that is the case, I do not think, if I were you, I
would be too hard upon poor Nilssen about the next world.
But you ought to be able to judge for yourself whether the
laager was a ghost-house or not; what became of it?”
“O, there it is still,” said Torkel. “I have slept in it
often myself since, and no harm has happened from it. But
all that hill-country is a terrible place. Do you know, the
Evil One once leaped over the Tind Sö, where it is four miles
across? He did, indeed; I have seen the prints of his footsteps
with my own eyes—and a very curious thing it is, that
one foot is bigger than the other. Our Kyrkesonger says it
is to mark the difference between mortal and venial sins.”
“I am afraid your Kyrkesonger will never rise to the rank
of Candidatus,” said the Parson, “if he does not get up his
theology a little better. Is not this the place where your
witches meet?”
“It is not far from it; and it is generally supposed that it
was in hurrying away from one of these meetings, which was
suddenly dispersed by some one having accidentally named a
holy name, that the Devil left the mark of his feet on the
shores of the Tind Sö; but the actual place of meeting is the
top of Gousta Fjeld. The ridge of the mountain is so narrow
that you may sit astride on it, with a leg on each side in the
air, and no resting-place under either foot for a thousand
fathoms. On this ridge the Devil sits playing on the bagpipe,
while the witches dance the polska round him in the
air. They come from all parts of the country, riding upon
the skyts-horse, which looks like a flying cow, and carrying
with them all the children they can catch, in order to enlist
them in the Devil’s service; for each witch has a needle, by
which she unlocks the sides of the houses, and makes an
opening, if she likes, big enough for a carriage and horses to
pass through; and after she has passed, she locks them up so
that no one can know where she has been. When she
arrives at the convent—so the assembly is called,—she presents
to the Devil all those children whom she has brought
with her: she cannot force the children to take service
with him,—some refuse, and the witches are obliged to carry
them back again. These are good and holy people ever
afterwards; but most of them do enter the Devil’s service,
for though he is bound down with a chain, which he has
always worn ever since our Lord came upon earth, yet he
can make himself look so fine and so glorious that very few
of them like to say ‘no,’ and to go back to their homes
through the dark night. If they once say ‘yes,’ he gives
them a silver dollar each, and marks them, by biting the
crown of their heads; and then they are taught to curse all
that is holy—the Heaven, and the earth, and the fruits of
the field, and the birds of the air,—all except the magpie, for
that is the Devil’s own peculiar favourite. And then the
witches make them a mess of rö-gröd, with corn that has
been stolen. They have a way of their own for stealing corn:
they put a sack to the roof of the granary as they fly past,
and say ‘Corn draw corn, and straw draw straw,’ and then
all the corn flies up into their sacks, and the straw remains
behind. I know this to be true, for I have lost lispund after
lispund myself that way. I had a girl in my service once,
who was a witch, and I lost as much as three tonne of corn,
and a great many things besides, while she was with me.
But she vanished one night and has never been heard of
since, and with her a great scoundrel, who had lately come
into our parts, whom she called her lover,—but the people
said he was the Devil in disguise.”
“Very likely,” said the Parson, “lovers very often are;
but what about your witch children?”
“When they have done all this, the Devil gives notice of
the next convent, and the witches take the children, and
they grow up with their brothers and sisters just like any
of the others, only that they are cross-grained children from
that time forward, and are always getting into one mischief
or another, and quarrelling, and fighting, and stealing, and
lying, and doing the Devil’s work on earth; for they have
all had new names given them at the convent, and whenever
the Devil calls them by those names, they must go and do
whatever work he sets them at, for they have taken his
wages, and, having once engaged to be his servants, they
cannot help themselves now.”
The Parson felt by no means inclined to laugh at Torkel’s
demonology, every bit of which may be found gravely and
solemnly recorded in the State papers of Sweden, for it once
formed the grounds of accusation upon which men and
women were executed by the dozen; for with the exception
of the material and tangible facts, the cow-like horse, and
the silver dollar, and the ridge of Gousta, and the bagpipes,
the whole of Torkel’s story was but an over-true allegory,
the antitype of which may be found everywhere in real life;
and the fact of the Superior Power compelling the restoration
of all who do not willingly engage in the Devil’s service, is
a very sound piece of theology. So he very readily joined
in the prayer of the Evening Hymn, a very ancient composition,
dating from centuries before the Reformation, which
Torkel sang as well and as heartily as if he had been kyrkesonger
himself. A portion of it has been thus translated:—
“Ere thy head, at close of day,
On thy lowly couch thou lay,
On thy forehead and thy breast
Be the Cross of Christ impressed.
“Sin and shame, like shades of night,
Fade before the Cross’s light,—
Hallowed thus, the wavering will
And the troubled heart are still.
“Far, far hence, dark phantoms fly,—
Haunting demons come not nigh,—
Ever waiting to betray,
Arch Deceiver, hence!—away!
“Serpent! with thy thousand coils,
With thy many winding wiles,
With thy deep, meandering arts,
Ruffling calm and quiet hearts;
“Hence!—for Christ, yea, Christ is here,—
At His token disappear;
Lo! the sign thou well hast known
Bids thy cursed crew begone!”
It is a fact that the Gousta Fjeld and the Tind Sö, a very large and
lonely lake at its foot, are popularly supposed to be the resort of the
Devil and his adherents. The author, however, has not been able to
meet with any authentic accounts of the diabolical convents in Norway.
He has, therefore, substituted those of Sweden, the locality of which
is Blaakulla, in Dalecarlia. These are quoted by Frederika Bremer
from the manuscript of Kronigsward, which details the judicial murders
which took place under Councillor Lawrence Kreutz, in 1671,—were
continued for three years, and were suppressed at last by the exertions
of Countess Catharine de la Gardie. But, though the executions for
witchcraft were put an end to, the belief in it is as rife as ever. The
same book contains a laughable story of a supposed witch residing in
the island of Söllezo, in the Silya Sjön, and of her recovery; which
proves that the clergy of Sweden have not lost their power as exorcists.
Not many years ago, a young girl of that island asserted positively that
she was conveyed every evening to Blaakulla. Her parents, who were
honest but simple folks, were much disturbed about it. They closely
watched their daughter by night,—bound her fast in bed with cords,—but
nothing would avail; for, in the morning, weeping bitterly, she
still maintained she had been at Blaakulla. At last, her unhappy
parents took her to the clergyman upon the island, and begged him,
with earnest tears, to save their child from the claws of Satan. After
having had several interviews with the maiden, the clergyman one day
said to her, “I know a remedy,—a certain remedy to cure you! but it
will give me much trouble. Yet, as nothing else appears to be of any
avail, we will have recourse to it.” With much solemnity, he caused
the girl to seat herself upon a commodious chair in the centre of the
apartment, took up a “Cornelius Nepos,” and began reading one of
the lives. Before he had finished, she fell fast asleep; and when she
awoke, the clergyman told her she was cured—and she was so!
CHAPTER XXIV. MAKING ANOTHER NIGHT OF IT.
“Unstable are autumn nights,—
The weather changes
Much in five days—
Still more in a month.”
Hávamál.
“Praise the day at eventide,
The wife when she is dead,
The sword when thou hast proved it,
The maid when she is married,
Ice when thou hast crossed it,
Ale when thou hast drunken it.”
Ibid.
Probably their couches were softer than usual,—probably the
fact of their being under a roof where the sun could not
shine on their faces, might have prolonged their slumbers;
but the fact is, the cock, had there been one at the sœter,
which there was not, would have “had his boots on”[55] a very
long while before either the Parson or his follower had opened
their eyes; and when they did open them, it was some time
before either of them could recollect where they were.
Swedes are not over fond of open air, and though their
glazed windows in the towns are large enough and numerous
enough to prove that no ingenious chancellor of the exchequer
had ever devised a tax upon their light, yet in the
fjeld, where glass is scarce, windows are scarce too, and the
few that there are, are generally stuffed with hay. In the
present case, though the sun was well above the trees, there
was not light enough to see the smoky rafters over head, or
the scarcely less dirty strings of flad bröd which were
dangling from them; but all round the building there was
a perpetual ringing of bells, from the great cracked bass to
the little tinkling treble; the sheep, scared by the
noises and the fires, had wandered home during the night,
and the cows were collecting round the door of the sœter in
hopes of being milked, which hopes, for one or two of them,
at least, were speedily realized,—for Torkel, taking the
bucket that had been well-nigh drained over night, proceeded
very composedly to milk them, just as if he were in
his own sœter in the Tellemark, observing quietly that new
milk was better than old.
In Sweden, as well as in Norway, every animal turned out
on a mountain pasture has a bell round its neck; certain
esprits forts (all of whom do it, notwithstanding, as well as
their more credulous neighbours) assert stoutly that it is to
enable the girls to find them among the trees; but as cows
generally keep together, and sheep do so, invariably, one bell
would be quite sufficient for the purpose. The more probable
solution is that given honestly in the Tellemark: that the
bells are tied on to prevent the Trolls from milking them in
the night,—for no Troll, as is well known, can abide a bell.
While Torkel was in the midst of his operations as deputy
dairyman, and the Parson was looking on, half doubting the
propriety of the thing, and half inclined to put a stop to it, a
sound of laughing and talking was heard behind the fence,
and three girls, none of them more than eighteen or twenty,
came clambering over it. Torkel did not seem the least in
the world disconcerted, nor did they on their part testify the
smallest surprise or displeasure, though one of them was the
proprietor’s daughter, and temporary mistress of the hut,
and the others were her servants; but after exchanging a
few joking observations relative to their respective modes of
passing the preceding night, and the young ladies’ taste for
field sports, they all set to work milking in earnest, and provided
for the sportsmen a better breakfast than they were
likely to have achieved by their own unassisted efforts; nor
could they be prevailed upon to accept any payment, beyond
laughingly insisting upon the intruders carrying out every
bit of hay, rebuilding the hay-cock, sweeping out the room,
and putting everything tidily into its place; till the Parson
detected Miss Lilla eyeing, with evident admiration, a pair of
Tellemarken shirt-buttons,—round hollow silver balls, about
the size of a grape-shot, with which he had decorated his
broad-flapped hat. These, after a good deal of pressing, she
permitted the “Herr Englesk” to fasten on the red silk handkerchief
which formed her very becoming head-dress, and
they parted mutually pleased, Lilla remarking politely—as
the Parson, shouldering his gun and taking off his hat after
the manner of the natives, bade her farvel (for the word is
Swedish no less than English)—“Jeg er ret lykkelig ved at
kunne berede dem denne lille Tjeneste,” which, as Lilla was
a pretty girl, Torkel condescended to understand and interpret,—a
thing which he had often professed himself
utterly unable to do when the speaker was a bearded man,
and informed the Parson that she was very happy in finding
such an opportunity of rendering this trifling service.
The Parson’s Swedish was at an end with his “farvel;”
all he could do in return was to bow and smile, and wave
his hand, as he vaulted over the rail and left the hospitable
sœter behind him.
Their journey through the forest was little more than a
counterpart of that of yesterday,—now traversing spaces
roofed with gloomy fir, and beech not less gloomy when you
see their undersides only and breathe nothing but the confined
air below them,—now breathing freely in a glade or svedgefall,
and gathering a handful of whorts or cranberries by the
way,—now pushing through a belt of under-stuff, thick enough
to conceal an elephant, but all the time meeting with very
little game. Indeed, skals are not by any means the likeliest
times to find the smaller game, and even the larger
lurk unseen till the very end of them. Torkel had cracked
off the Parson’s rifle at a Lo, as he called it—that is to say, a
lynx,—that jumped up from under his feet and dashed into
a thicket, but with very little effect beyond frightening it,
though the beast was twice as large as a fox and twice as
red. The parson had brought down a hen “capercailzie,”—but
that was the whole of their morning’s sport.
For some time the under-stuff had been unusually thick,
and had formed a considerable impediment to their progress;
they had persevered through it for about half a mile, and the
wood gave no signs of becoming more open, when Torkel
stopped, and looked right and left of him through the stuff,
as if to find an opening.
“We must be skirting the border of a svedgefall,” said he,
“where the air comes in freely; these hazels would never
grow in the close forest,—let us edge a little to the right, we
are taking the belt end-ways.”
“The right!” said the Parson; “that seems even thicker
than where we are now.”
“That is the very reason,” said Torkel; “the nearer the
svedgefall, the more air,—the more air the closer the understuff.”
The Parson thought this remarkably good reasoning, and
set himself boldly to face the difficulty, instead of shrinking
from it,—a proceeding which, were it generally followed in
our course through life, would seldom fail to meet with its
reward.
It did not on this occasion, at all events, for after a hundred
yards or so of hard struggle, they suddenly emerged
into an open plain of some miles in length, and a good half
mile across. It was not a svedgefall, as Torkel had imagined,
but the clearing formed by an old fire, the effects of which
nature had already, in a great measure, succeeded in repairing;
for a coarse grass, gemmed with all manner of flowers,
covered the greater part of it, through which the spiræa raised
its feathery head; large tracts were vividly green with young
birches, as yet hardly higher than the grass, but closely set,
as if planted in a nursery;—here and there the cranberry
threw a gleam of crimson into nature’s carpeting, while the
epilobium—an absolute tree compared to the dwarf plants
around it—showed, with its thickly set flowers, a mass of
lilac; and the fox-glove (in Sweden a holy flower), bent its
head and rang its fairy bells, inaudible by mortal ears, whenever
a good angel passed it by on his errand of mercy. A
few great mournful dead trees were still stretching out their
helpless and blackened branches, like the old and ruined
families after a revolution, sorrowful remembrances of the
glories which had passed away; but most of these had
dropped where they had stood, and were already concealed by
the vigorous young undergrowth, which was springing up all
the more vigorously because the soil had been for ages fertilized
by the leaves of their predecessors.
The Parson sat down exhausted on one of these remains
of fallen majesty, and fanned himself with his broad-leafed
hat, while Torkel, standing on the highest point he could find,
cast a look up and down the opening, which seemed as silent
and as destitute of animal life as any part they had hitherto
traversed.
“There is something,” said he; “I see it move—I am sure
there is something alive there.”
The Parson was up in an instant, with his telescope in his
hand.
“There it is,” said Torkel, “on the farther edge, just under
the high trees—that tall dead trunk with a forked head is
exactly in the line; look there, I see it move now as plainly
as possible.”
“I have got it now,” said the Parson, “and it is a bear,
too, if ever I saw one in the Zoological Gardens.”
“Hush!” said Torkel; “do not say that, or we shall never
get a shot at it.”
“Why?” said the Parson; “it is almost out of sight, let
alone out of hearing.”
“That does not signify,” said Torkel, “that animal is
wiser than any of us; whether it has a fylgia, or guardian[56]
spirit, like us, is more than I can say, but it is the truth, that
if ever you name its name you will get no shot at it, and
fortunate for you if you do not meet with some piece of ill
luck into the bargain.”
“Well, well,” said the Parson, “I will take care in future;
but what am I to call him?”
“Call him Old Fur Jacket! or call him The Disturber! or
call him The Wise One! anything you like, only do not call
him what you have done just now. I hope no mischief will
come of it.”
“There are two,” said the Parson; “there is a little one—I
see it plainly enough, now that they have got clear from that
patch of epilobium. What on earth is the old—pshaw!—the
Old Wise One about? she seems to be administering a little
wholesome discipline to young Fur Jacket;”—and he handed
the glass to Torkel.
“She has been frightened,” said he, “she has been roused
out by the dref, and she is making her cub get up into the
tree; they very frequently do that when they suspect they
will have to run or fight for it. Young Wilful does not seem
to know what is good for him, and must be flogged into it.
Just like our own younkers,” said Torkel, philosophically,
taking another look through the glass.
“It is not very good for him just now,” said the Parson,
“with our eyes upon him. If he once gets up he is a lost
Fur Jacket.”
“And up he gets,” said Torkel, “and receives a parting
benediction from his mother’s paw across his stern, just to
freshen his way, as Tom says. And now how to get a crack
at the Old Lady? if we were on the other side we might do it
easily enough, but the stuff here is not high enough to hide us;
those brutes have eyes sharp enough to see through a mill-stone.”
“Had we better not watch her? perhaps she will think
that which is good for young Hopeful will be good for her;
we shall have her climbing, herself, next.”
“Not she, she knows better; the branch that is very good
protection to a little lump of brown fur, she knows well
enough, would not do for a beast almost as big as a cow,—you
will not catch her up a tree, and you need not expect it.”
“What is to be done then? there she is still.”
“I do not know anything better than to keep along this
edge, till we put a mile or so of ground between us and her,
and then to cross; and the sooner we start the better, for
she will not stay long after she has disposed of her young
one.”
“Good!” said the Parson, “and now for finding the place
again;”—and he took out his compass and placed it on the
fallen trunk. “That forked tree bears to us exactly E. by
N.; when we come down the other side and bring it W. by
S., we shall not be very far from the place; and then the
northern edge of that large clump of epilobium will give us
the exact mark. And now to get there as quick as we
may.”
They had not proceeded a couple of hundred yards when
they met with a brook which intersected the opening nearly
at right angles.
“This will do,” said Torkel, jumping into it, for it was not
much more than knee deep, and clear as crystal. “The fall
of the ground, the bed of the stream, and the stuff that
always grows on the banks, will be quite sufficient cover
for us.”
On they went, stooping, sometimes splashing through the
water itself, sometimes creeping on hands and knees under
the bank, resting for a while behind some friendly rock or
stump, then creeping on again, till at last they neared the
opposite side; and then, seeking the shelter of the trees, they
took a few minutes’ rest—for going on all-fours is anything but
a comfortable mode of progression. Slowly and warily they
advanced, peering about, moving from tree to tree, and looking
closely into every bush before they showed themselves.
There was the place evidently enough; the north corner of
the epilobium was near enough to the forked tree to make a
capital mark—there could be no mistake as to the locality;
besides, the bear’s tracks were evident enough on some soft
ground; but no living creature was to be seen. The bear
had either heard them, or smelt them, or, having provided
for her young one, and being restless and anxious on account
of the noises that had roused her at first, had gone on to
some thicker cover.
“That comes of calling the beast by his name,” said Torkel,
half sulkily; “never do that again, at least not in the fjeld.
Well, never mind, we will have young Innocence, at all events;
the reward is half as much for a cub as it is for an old
one.”
“That is all you think about,” said the Parson.
“No it is not,” said Torkel; “I like the sport itself as
well as any man living—I love it for its own sake; but I
should not mind a few of their yellow notes, either, to be
turned into honest, hard Norwegian specie-dalers, and laid up
for the winter,—at least, just now, for Lota’s sake. Fancy
what a set of scoundrels these Swedes must be, when they
have to print on all their notes, ‘Whoso forges this shall be
hanged’—we do not do that in Norway.”
“No,” said the Parson, “you are none of you clever enough
to forge—the Norges Bank’s Representativ is quite safe in
such clumsy hands as yours.”
“There he sits, just in that fork close to the trunk,” said
Torkel, who, if he had not, as the Parson insinuated, skill
enough in his fingers to forge a note, had quickness enough
in his eyes to see through a log of timber, if a bear had been
hiding behind it. “There is young Innocence! Oh! do not
spoil his skin with that small shot. Here is the rifle. Put
the ball in under his ear,—that will not hurt him.”
It did not seem to hurt him, in good truth, for he never
moved an inch on receiving the shot, though the blood
dripping down the tree showed that the ball had reached its
mark. The cub remained perfectly dead, but supported by
the fork in which he was sitting.
“What is to be done now?” said the Parson; “I do not
see how to get him down, for the trunk is too big to swarm
up, and we have not a branch for twenty feet; but it will
never do to leave him there.”
“Leave him!” said Torkel; “O no! that would never do.
I think we may get up into that tree, though, with a little
management.”
There was growing, within a few yards of the great tree
which the bear had selected, a small thin weed of a fir, which,
coming up in the shade, had stretched itself out into a long
branchless pole with a bunch of green at the top, in its legitimate
aspirations after light and air. Torkel, disengaging
the axe which he usually carried at his back, notched it on
the nearer side, and then, seeing its inclination would carry
it to the great tree on which the cub was hanging, cut vigorously.
In a minute or two the little fir sank quietly into
the yielding arms of his great neighbour, and formed with its
trunk a rough ladder. Up this Torkel, having paused for a
moment to see if it had finally settled, climbed as readily as
any bear in the forest. He was soon seen worming himself
through the spreading branches, and slipping down to the
fork; and the little lump of bear’s fat, about the size of a
two-year-old hog, came squashing down upon the turf.
Small as it was for a bear, it was impossible to carry it;
so they tied its hind legs together, and hung it upon one of
the dead trees in the open, the Parson having first pinned
upon its snout a leaf which he had torn out of his note-book,
and had written Torkel’s name upon it.
Torkel, however, was mistaken about his share of the yellow
notes, though the Parson did not suffer him to lose by it.
Every bear killed in a skal is the property of the Ofwer
Jagmästere; a regulation which is found to be absolutely necessary,
in order to prevent men from breaking their ranks
and hunting the likely places independently,—a proceeding
which would ensure the loss of every bear except the particular
animal which was the object of immediate pursuit. Of
this Torkel was not aware, because in Norway skals such as
this seldom or never take place, not only because the ground
is generally too difficult, but principally because the inhabitants
are too widely scattered to be easily collected in sufficient
numbers, and a great deal too lawless to be managed if
they could.
With all the complacency which the consciousness of having
done a good action confers, they proceeded on their journey,
which, as their course happened to lie lengthways of the
opening, was easy enough. Hot, and the least little bit in
the world fatigued, they sauntered along on the shady side
of the glade, till they began to discover that the whole
country had become shady, and that a little sun, if it was
to be had, would be just as pleasant. In fact, it had
become extremely chilly.
“There goes Thor’s hammer,” said Torkel, as a crash of
thunder burst over their heads, echoing from tree to tree;
“we need not fear the Trolls now, every one of them is
half-way to the centre of the earth by this time.”
“I wish we had nothing worse to fear,” said the Parson;
“but this gradual darkening looks a great deal more like a
spell of bad weather than a sudden storm. I wish we knew
where the Captain’s post is.”
“We cannot be within seven or eight miles of that,” said
Torkel; “and I really do think that we are going to have a
wet night, and plenty of mist into the bargain. It will be
perfectly impossible for us to find the post, knowing so little
of the country as we do. We had better hut ourselves at
once. If we had been on the hill we might have seen this
coming, but down here it was impossible, with no sky visible,
except that which is right over our heads.”
“Well,” said the Parson, “if it is to be, we may as well
halt at once. So off with your havresac, and turn to. This
spreading fir will do as well as any for our canopy.”
Torkel was a man of deeds, and his assent and approbation
were demonstrated by his throwing down his havresac
and forthwith selecting and cutting down a young fir for his
ridge-pole; and,—while the Parson was securing the locks of
the guns with handkerchiefs, and such like extemporaneous
expedients,—for the gun covers had, of course, been left with
the baggage,—he had already cut down two pair of cross timbers
to lay it on. The Parson, with his hand-bill, aided him
vigorously, and the more so that the rain had now begun to
patter sharply from leaf to leaf, and it was very evident that
no long time would elapse before it found its way to their
localities below. The frame-work of the hut was arranged,
and branches of the fir and beech, and coarse grass and
juniper,—in fact anything that could be collected on the
spur of the moment,—was laid on as thatch, while Torkel
hastily drew together and chopped up the driest stuff he
could find for the fire.
The rain was now coming on in right earnest, and the
night was prematurely setting in. The drops came through
thicker and thicker, each one as big as a marble; and the
sportsmen, with jackets more than half wet through, crept
disconsolately into the unfinished hut, in order, as Torkel
said, to make themselves comfortable.
The first piece of comfort which was discovered was that
the havresacs, which had been thrown off at the beginning of
the hutting operations, had been left where they were
thrown, and were by this time wet through and through, together
with every morsel of bread that they contained. The
supper was not luxurious, and, as neither was greatly disposed
for conversation, they laid themselves up in the warmest
corner they could find, and courted forgetfulness, as well as
rest and refreshment, in sleep.
The Parson, as an old fisherman, had been pretty well
accustomed to a minor description of roughing it. The
boxes of dried poplar leaves of a Norwegian cottage, or the
heaps of hay of a sœter-farm were to him as feather beds.
A rainy day, too, he had often hailed as remarkably good
fishing weather, but a night’s bivouac, sub-Jove, and that
Jove pluviali, was rather a new thing to him; and his cloak,
too, miles off, under the charge of the faithful Jacob. One
habit, however, he had picked up in his travels, which stood
him in good stead now, and that was the habit of “making
the best of it.”
Bad was the best; the fuel was wet and scanty, and the
fire soon went out; and Torkel’s house, run up hastily and
after dark, was as little water-tight as if it had been built
by contract. Before midnight the Parson was roused up,
first by detached drops and then by little streamlets falling
on his face and person, and wet and chilled, he lay counting
the hours, and envying Torkel, who snored comfortably
through it all.
Morning came at last—it always does come if we wait long
enough for it,—and a dull and misty light began to struggle
in through the opening of the hut, and through several other
openings also, which, during the past night had officiated,
though uncalled for, as spouts for the water.
Still the rain fell, not in showers, not violently, for there
was not a breath of wind, but evenly, quickly, steadily, as if,
conscious of its resources, it meant to rain for ever; while
the big drops from the fir branches kept patter, patter, on
the soppy ground, and the mist hung so low that you could
scarcely see the branches they fell from.
“Hang that fellow, he will sleep for ever,” said the Parson;
“come, rouse out Torkel, ‘show a leg,’ as Tom says,
it is broad daylight now, and high time for us to be
moving.”
Torkel stretched himself and rubbed his eyes, and looked
stupid; his thoughts had not returned from his native
Tellemark, and his prospects of a “home and pleasing wife,”
on the banks of the Torjedahl, of which, in all probability,
he had been dreaming.
“Come, Torkel, rouse up my boy,” said the Parson, kicking
him; “here is the tail end of the brandy-flask for you, and
when that is gone, we must find our way to where more is
to be had.” The hint of brandy had the desired effect of
waking up the old hunter; for even his iron frame was none
the better for the night’s soaking. The brandy, however,
put them both in good-humour, and having extracted from
their havresacs that which had once been excellent kahyt
scorpor, but which now were black soppy lumps of dough,
they made an extempore breakfast, seasoned by some chips
of Fortnum and Mason’s portable soup, a piece of which the
Parson invariably carried with him, but which, as there was
now no possibility of lighting a fire, they were obliged to
suck or eat as they could.
“Now Mister Torkel, en route! hvar er väga til hållet?
we must get there before we taste brandy again, that is
certain; pray Heaven they have not broken up the skal, and
left us alone in our glory. That is our direction,” continued
he, looking at his pocket-compass, “but the thing is to keep
it, in this thick wood and thick weather, when no one can
see a dozen yards before his nose.”
Every one who has been out in a fog knows the propensity
the traveller invariably has to work round in a circle,
and to return to the spot from which he started. True, in
the present case, the compass was a safeguard against this,
but to consult the compass when walking or riding requires
time, the needle does not settle itself to the north without a
good deal of vacillation; and here the lie of the country
gave no assistance whatever; it was not a plain, certainly, for
it was very uneven, and occasionally rocky, but there was
nothing like hill, or any continuous direction of declivities,
which could form a guide. Here and there were dense
brakes, every leaf and twig of which, overcharged with
moisture, showered down its stores upon them, and there
was no possibility of picking the ground, where the only
chance of finding the track lay in keeping the compass
course. No brook had been met with of sufficient volume
to render it probable that it had come from behind the hills;
and besides, it was more than probable that the watercourses,
which formed the only communications with the
pickets above, were much too full now to be practicable.
As hour after hour wore on, and the forest seemed always
like that through which they had started in the morning, the
Parson was more than once tempted to follow the course of
the running water, and to make his way down to the river,
upon the chance of at least a shelter and a meal at one of
the farm-houses; but the hopes of effecting a junction with
his friends, and still more with his baggage, kept him to his
course, though the hållet—as Virgil’s Italy served poor
Æneas—seemed to be continually going backwards as he
approached it.
“Hallo!” said Torkel at last, who was then a little in
advance, “what have we got to now, a svedgefall, or a
sœter? the fjeld is much clearer here. Oho, I see! this
will do; look here, this juniper was cut only lately, and here
is another stump, and the branches all carried away, too, and
there is a tree that has got its lower boughs trimmed; we
have got to the shooting line at last.”
“Upon my word, I think we have,” said the Parson; “and
if so, we must turn short up to the left, and the Captain’s
post cannot be far from us.”
“Unless they have broken up the skal,” said Torkel.
“If they have, I am sure we shall find some one here, left
to guide us; Lieutenant Birger knows that we are to make
for this spot. Here is something, at all events,” as they
came in sight of a line of peeled saplings, right across the
path, which had for some time begun to ascend rather rapidly.
“This will do, I am sure;” for now a peasant, who had been
sitting cowering under the rock, with a soldier’s musket in
his hand, the lock of which he had covered with a sack that
had evidently done duty with the carioles, came forward to
meet them.
He was not very communicative, however, for he could
not speak English, and would not understand Norwegian;
but, at all events, they learnt to their comfort that the post
was there still, and, after ten minutes sharp pull up a steep
but very open and practicable pass, they came in sight of the
Captain’s watch-fires, situated in the gorge of it.
“Home at last!” said the Parson.
“And high time, too,” said the Captain. “There, pick
those wretched flowers out of that hat of yours, and let us see
whether we cannot make you look less like a drowned rat.”
“You have not broken up the skal, then?” said the
Parson.
“Oh, no! nothing like it; the rain came on late in the
evening, and they could not have broken it up then if they
wished, for the men would not have had time to go home, and
might just as well make themselves comfortable where they
were.”
Comfortable! thought the Parson, shrugging his wet
shoulders, and thinking of his own comforts during the
night past.
“And this morning,” continued the Captain, “the weather-wise
say that the rain will not last; and as they have driven so
much of the country, and fairly disturbed the game, the
Ofwer Jagmästere sent for some brandy—not enough to make
the men drunk, but as much as is good for them,—and they
are to keep their fires burning and make all the noise they
can, and so keep the game within the ring till the weather
clears.”
“And where did you hear all this?” said the Parson.
“Oh, Birger is here,” said the Captain; “he came in
about two hours ago, as wet as you are; he is asleep in the
other tent. Did you not see a row of barked bushes as you
came up?”
“Yes,” said the Parson, “that I did, and I hailed them as
the traveller did the gibbet,—the first mark of civilisation I
had seen; but I cannot say that I understand what they
mean.”
“It was Birger’s plan,” said the Captain, “they have done
it pretty continuously along the line of the dref; it is intended
to look like a trap, and to prevent the game from coming up
the pass during the rain, when we cannot trust to our rifles.
We have had half-a-dozen wolves here last night; there is
one of them,” pointing to a carcase which two of the men
were skinning. “I was not ready for them, that is the
truth, for I was eating my supper. I ought, certainly, to
have had a brace of them, but this gentleman was a little in
the rear of his party, and the Devil took the hindermost,—at
least my little pea-rifle did. And there are a couple of
foxes; Tom says their skins are valuable. I picked them
off during the night. I am pretty sure we had a bear,
too, early this morning; but he turned, whatever he was,
before I could get a sight of him.”
“No wonder, with that fire,” said the Parson.
“Why, we do want to keep them in,” said the Captain;
“besides, who is to do without a fire in such weather as this?
There—had you not better go and make yourself comfortable.
Jacob has brought your knapsack and cloak: you will find
them there in the tent—(by-the-bye, what do you think of
the use of tents now?) After that I suppose you will be
ready for dinner?”
“You may say that,” said the Parson; “it is little beside
biscuit sopped in rain that we have had this day. Tom,”
he shouted, “mind you take care of Torkel there; going
without his grub is a serious thing to one of your country,
and a still more serious thing going without his brandy.”
“As for your wet clothes,” continued the Captain, “there
is no help for that. Birger’s are much in the same mess,
but we have a fire big enough to dry anything, if the rain
would only hold off. In the meanwhile you must keep
under canvas; those lug-sails of yours keep the wet out
capitally. You see, I have used them for roof, and have
built up walls to them with fir-branches and junipers.”
“Upon my word,” said the Parson, “it is quite luxurious,
and so is this dry flannel shirt—Heaven bless the man who
invented flannel shirts,—I should have been dead with cold
by this time, if I had been wearing a linen one. Hallo,
Jacob! you look rather moist; what is the state of the
larder?”
Whatever the state of the larder was, the Captain had
determined it should be a mystery, for he knew well that
nothing unfits a man for subsequent work so much as a
hearty meal after great fatigue upon little sustenance. As
soon, therefore, as he heard that they had eaten little or
nothing since their breakfast at the sœter on the preceding
day, he gave a private sign to Jacob, and nothing whatever
was forthcoming but a good strong basin of portable soup,
smoking hot, with a couple of kahyt scorpor bobbing about
in it; and, early as it was in the day—for it was not more
than four in the afternoon,—the Parson was well satisfied to
scoop out a bed in the dry moss of the tent, to draw his fur
cloak over him, and to seek in sleep the rest which he needed
quite as much as he did the food.
CHAPTER XXV. THE WATCH FIRE.
“Fire will be needful
For him who enters
With his knees frozen.
Of meat and clothing
Stands he in need
Who journeys o’er mountains.
“Water is needful,—
A towel and kindness,
For the guest’s welcome.
Kind inclinations
Let him experience;—
Answer his questions.”
Hávamál.
Sound and deep were the Parson’s slumbers, complete and
absolute was his state of unconsciousness. Noises there were
in the camp, no doubt, noises of every description: eight or
ten people without any particular occupation, without
any reason whatever for keeping silence—rather the
reverse,—are apt to be noisy. But it was all one to
him, the Seven Sleepers themselves could not have slept
more soundly; and the next four or five hours were to him
as though they had not been. His first perception of sublunary
matters was awakened by the words of a well known
air, which at first mingled with his dreams, and then presented
themselves to his waking senses:—
“O, never fear though rain be falling,—
O, never fear the thunder dire,—
O, never heed the wild wind’s calling,
But gather closer round the fire.
For thus it is, through storm and rain,
The weary midnight hours must wane,
Ere joyous morning comes again,
And bids the gloom retire.”
The Parson unrolled himself from his cloak and looked
out; the night had fallen dark enough, and the rain, though
it gave evident symptoms of having exhausted itself, was still
falling, but scantily and sparingly. The mist was thicker and
darker and blacker than ever; all, however, was bright light
in the camp, for the bale-fires of Baldur could not have burnt
more brightly than the watch-fires of the picket. The Captain
had had plenty of spare hands and plenty of spare time,
and had kept his men in work by collecting stores of fuel;
besides which he had made use of an expedient which,
common enough in winter camps, is seldom resorted to in
summer. A full-grown pine, which seemed to have died of
old age, and had dried up where it stood, was cut down; the
head, already deprived of its branches by Time, was chopped
off and laid alongside the butt, end for end, and the fires had
been lighted on the top of these two pieces of timber. The
interstice between them admitting the air from below, roared
like a furnace, and blew up the bright flames on high; whilst
the trunks themselves, which had speedily become ignited,
contributed their own share to the general light and heat.
There were several supplementary fires, for the great furnace
was much too fierce for culinary operations; and the smoke
from all these, pressed down, as it were, by the superincumbent
mist, formed, by the reflection of the flames, a sort of luminous
halo, beyond which it was impossible for eye to penetrate.
Here and there fir branches were stuck into the
ground to dry the clothes upon, for though the drizzle had
not exactly ceased, the heat dried much faster than the rain
moistened.
Full in the blaze of light, and as near as he could approach
to it without burning himself, stood Birger; his neat little
figure just as tidy, and just as carefully dressed, as if there
had been no such thing as falling rain, or wet juniper, or
prickly brambles in the world. He was standing with his
back to the fire, and his hands in the pockets of his shooting-jacket,
watching the preparations for a late supper, and singing,
at the full pitch of a very powerful voice, the magic words
which had recalled the Parson to a state of consciousness.
The Captain, who had evidently been furbishing up with
fresh chalk the “S. F.” on his cap, which looked quite white
and new, notwithstanding the rain, had just returned from
visiting his sentries, and was examining the lock of his American
rifle, which he had carried with him, to see if it had
sustained any damage from the wet. Jacob, and his attendant
imps, were emerging from behind the flames with the
everlasting black kettle, which was accompanied this time by
a pile of steaks, cut from some mysterious animal, and served
up on the splash-board of one of the carioles, by way of
dish.
“Halloo! Birger,” said the Parson; “you here! Rather
a change in the general aspect of affairs since we parted
last!”
“You may well say that; I never saw such a determined
day’s rain; I thought the twilight of the gods was come in
real earnest.”
“To judge from the fire that you have got up,” said the
Parson, emerging from the tent, “you seem inclined to realize
the old prophecy, that that twilight is to finish off by a
general conflagration.”
“You need not cast inquiring glances at me,” said Birger to
the Captain, who, having satisfied himself about the state of
his weapons, was trying to make out the allusion. “I am
not going to tell you that long story now. The gods themselves,
if we may trust the high song of Odin, used to take
off the edge of their hunger, and thirst, too,—for they
were thirsty souls,—before they called on Bragi, the god of
minstrelsy, to sing even their own deeds. And, to tell you
the truth, to say nothing of my being as hungry as a hunter,
these steaks are most magnificent, and this kettle unusually
savoury.”
“What have you got in it?” said the Parson.
“Andhrimnir cooks Sahrimnir in Eldhrimnir,” replied
Birger, quoting from the cookery of the prose Edda. “Do
you not see Odin has sent us a present of heavenly meat
from Valhalla?”
“Nonsense! what is the meat of Valhalla called here on
earth?”
“Goat’s flesh,” said Birger, demurely.
“Humph!” said the Parson, turning over, with his crimping
knife, a bone almost big enough to have belonged to a
small ox; “and this is a goat’s rib, is it?”
“Valhalla was always remarkable for its breed of goats,”
said Birger: “but never you mind what rib it is, there’s a
biscuit to eat with it, that is all you need care about, just
now. I am afraid our host, the Skalfogdar” (bowing to the
Captain), “cannot find you any currant jelly to eat with
it.”
“I can find you some cranberry jelly, though,” said the
Captain, “which is a much better thing, and much more characteristic
of the country. Here, Jacob, hand me that mess-tin,
will you. The very first thing I did, after reconnoitring
my post, was to lay in a store of these cranberries, and to
make them into jelly. I had not to go far for them. You
would not like them in the Swedish fashion—pickled,—would
you? I think the men have got some which they
have made for themselves.”
“Thank you, yes; and a little of the forbidden stuff, too,
to wash it down with. Never mind the water, Piersen, I
have taken my share of that already.”
Here Jacob made his appearance, with four or five orre
grouse, spitted upon a strip of fir;—Jacob piqued himself
on his fjeld cuisine, and really did serve up his dinners admirably.
The whole was concluded with split grayling, by
way of cheese, for being north of the Wener Sjön, they were
in the grayling country,—a circumstance which the Captain,
whose post was not a mile from the river, had not been slow
to profit by;—on the sunny morning of the preceding day,
he had caught them by dozens. The grayling, which are
seldom caught in Norway, where the rivers are mostly too
rough for such tender fish, abound throughout the whole
north of Sweden, and are worth anything to the fisherman;
they render his chances of sport, as well as of provisions,
very much less precarious, because they do everything which
trout do not; they are stationary when—in Sweden, at all
events—the trout is migratory; they come into high season
when the trout are going out; they will not rise in a stormy
day, which the trout loves; but, when the sun is bright and
the wind is low, and not a ripple curls the surface, and not
a trout stirs beneath it, the swift, shadow-like grayling dot
it with their rises like so many hail-stones. They are very
good eating, too, when dressed in any way man can devise;
but a very excellent method, and a very common method in
Sweden, is to split them down the back, pepper them well,
and dry them in the hot sun before broiling them, or making
them into plok-fiske. This Jacob was unable to do on the
present occasion, for the rain had been falling from the time
of the Captain’s return from the river; so he had substituted
for the sun that which was scarcely less hot—the
Captain’s blazing fire; and his imitation was unanimously
pronounced to have exceeded the original.
“I do not think I should have fared like this at any of
the farm houses,” said the Parson, stretching himself at full
length on his cloak and basking at the fire, for the rain had
now entirely ceased, and the bivouac began to look home-like
and comfortable. “I must say it required a pretty firm
determination to keep steadily onward, with soaked clothes
and chilled bones and empty stomachs, such as we had this
morning. I was sorely tempted to make for shelter; but I
set before me the comforts of persevering, and I am very
glad I did so. To say nothing of your company and Jacob’s
dinner, this glorious blaze is far better than a farm-house
stove, and my old cloak than a dirty sheep-skin. Well,
virtue is its own reward. Jacob, fill the pot with hot water,
and let us have a few embers here to keep it warm. Have
you got any sugar?”
“There is nothing your countrymen are so remarkable for,”
said Birger, “as a steady, resolute perseverance against difficulties
and discouragements.”
“Pluck?” suggested the Captain.
“Yes, Pluck! you did not know when you were beaten at
Waterloo, and so you won the battle; Wellington would
have got an army of Englishmen out of the scrape of Moscow,
if he had ever been ass enough to get them into it.”
“I think,” said the Parson, “that this may be traced to a
national peculiarity of ours—love of adventure. Other men
will undergo hardships and incur dangers, in search of gain,
or even in the pursuit of some definite object, but the
Englishman seeks his hardships for the pleasure of undergoing
them,—courts his dangers for the pleasure of surmounting
them, and follows out his adventure for adventure’s sake.”
“In fact,” said the Captain, “he does just what we are all
doing now.”
“Well,” said Birger, “and let no one say—what is the use
of it?—what is the Englishman the better for diving into
mines, and scaling mountains, and crossing deserts?—what
has he to show for it? He has this to show for it,—a manliness
of character,—a spirit to encounter the dangers of life,
and a heart to overcome its difficulties. Depend upon it,
while your aristocracy—men brought up and nourished in
the very lap of luxury and ease—seek their pleasures in the
dangers of the wild ocean, or the hardships of the stormy
mountain-side, you will see no symptoms of degeneracy in
the hardihood and manliness of your national character.
Pluck is a genuine English word, slang though it be.”
“I think you may translate it into Swedish,” said the
Captain, “for our English blood has a cross of Scandinavian
in it, and there really is as great a similarity in our national
characteristics as there is in the structure of our languages.”
“I think,” said the Parson, “your word ‘Mod’ implies
pluck, with a dash of fierceness in it. When it is said of
some grand berserkar, ‘har oprist syn mod,’ it means that
he has summoned his pluck, with the full intention of making
his enemies aware of that fact. Still, however, it is a fair
rendering of our more peaceable word, and you have a right
to it; but I am quite sure you cannot translate that expression
into any other language under the sun, without
losing some part of its force.”
“Whether any foreigners can translate the word into
their own language,” said the Captain, “is more than I will
undertake to say, but they perfectly understand and appreciate
this peculiarity of our English character. Last year I
was arranging with one of the Chamouny guides an expedition
into the higher Alps; I had with me a jolly talking
little French marquis, whom I had picked up at St. Gervais.
He was an ambitious little fellow, and volunteered—Heaven
help him!—to be my companion. My guide—(you recollect
old Couttet, Parson?)—looked rather blank at this, and taking
me aside, said in a low voice, ‘absolument je n’irais pas avec
ce Monsieur lá.’ ‘Why?’ said I, rather astonished at the
man refusing that which would certainly have put some
additional francs into his pocket. ‘Je connais bien ces
Francais,’ said he—‘an Englishman is fearful enough in
the valleys, always saying he will not do this, and he cannot
do that, because in truth he is so proud that he does not like
to take anything in hand and be beat in it; but once get
him on the mountain, and fairly in for it, and be the danger
what it may, he faces it, and be the fatigue what it may, he
keeps up a good heart, and in the end gets through it all as
well as we do ourselves. Your Frenchman is as bold as
brass in the valleys, and does not do badly for a spurt if he
thinks people are admiring him, but he gets cowed when
danger comes and no one to see him, and sits down and dies
when he is tired.’”
“Mr. Couttet was a sensible fellow, and knew his
man,” said Birger, who, descended from the old aristocracy
of Sweden, hated and despised the French party most cordially;
“and how did you get rid of your travelling companion?”
“O! Couttet took the management of that upon his own
hands; he made the poor little marquis’s hair stand on end,
with all sorts of stories about snow storms, and whirlwinds,
and frozen travellers; which no doubt were true enough, for
there is not a pass in the High Alps without its well-authenticated
tale of death; so the little fellow came to me heartily
ashamed of himself, and looking like a dog that was going
to be whipped, with his ‘mille excuses,’ and so forth, and in
fact, we then and there parted company, and I have not
seen him from that time to this. He certainly was rather
an ambitious Tom Thumb for the Col du Géant.—Hallo!
there is something on foot there,” said he, interrupting himself,
“hark to that! there goes another.” And in fact, three
or four shots not very distant from them were distinctly
heard, though they came, not sharp and ringing as such
sounds generally strike upon the ear through the clear air of
the north, but deadened by the mist, as if, so to speak, the
sound had been smothered by a feather-bed. “There goes
another! and another!” then came a whole platoon—“O,
by George! I must go and visit my sentries.”
“All nonsense,” said Birger, “one fellow fires at a rustling
leaf, and then all the rest crack off their pieces, by the way
of follow-the-leader; you may just as well make yourself
comfortable,” drawing his cloak round him by way of suiting
the action to the word. “Hand me over the bottle, Jacob!
some more hot water in the pot!”
“I shall go, however,” said the Captain, who was young at
picket work, and proportionably anxious; so shouldering his
rifle, and calling to Tom, his corporal and interpreter, he
disappeared into the outer darkness, while his friends
settled themselves more comfortably in their cloaks, and
threw half a dozen additional, not to say superfluous, logs
into the glorious blaze.
The dispositions at the foot of the pass had been made
with great judgment; the object was, if possible, to prevent
anything from passing during the night, but at any rate
to arrange matters so that nothing should pass without being
seen.
For this purpose a pretty large fire was lighted so near to
the perpendicular part of the rock that nothing would be
likely to go behind it, the shrubs of course being cleared
away from its vicinity; and on the opposite side of the
passage was a little sentry-box of fir branches, under which
sat two Swedes, with directions to let fly at anything that
crossed between them and the fire; so that if they missed, as
most likely they would, the picket above might at least be
prepared.
The men, who had been excited by the firing, were sharp
as needles, and indeed, were not very far from letting fly at
their own commander, but they had seen nothing that they
could be very certain about, though of course their imaginations
were full of half the beasts in Noah’s Ark; and so, after
straining his eyes into the thick darkness for half an hour or
more, the Captain heaped fresh fuel on the fire, recommended
a sharp look-out, returned slowly up the pass,
and was well laughed at for his pains as he resumed his seat
by the blazing tree.
“By the way, Birger, what is that story that you and the
Parson were alluding to just before dinner, I hope you have
eaten and drank enough by this time to qualify you for
relating it.”
“What, the twilight of the gods? the Ragnarök, as the
Edda calls it; that is not a story, it is a bit of heathenism.”
“It seems to me,” said the Captain, “that you Swedes
keep your heathenism a great deal better than you do your
Christianity.”
“The Norwegians do, certainly,” said Birger, “the fact is,
their conversion was effected by force of arms, rather than by
force of argument; the party of Olaf the Christian was
stronger than the party of Hakon the heathen, so they killed
and converted, and the people became Christians, and very
appropriately adopted the saint’s battle-axe for their national
emblem. As for their Reformation, that was simply an
order from a despotic court, not resisted, only because the
people did not care much about the matter. ‘It will not
make herrings dear,’ was the popular remark on the subject.
The creed of Odin was the only religion that they were in
earnest about, and that is why the legends that they cling
to, are, nine times in ten, heathen rather than Christian.”
“I think I have read that story about the herrings in
Geijer, but applied to a different nation,” said the Parson;
“it will not do for you Swedes to be throwing stones at
Norway, in the matter of that Reformation; your original
conversion by St. Ansgar, was a good deal more creditable
than theirs, but your Reformation was simply the party of
Gustaf stronger than the party of Christiern—you reformed
your Church because you wanted to dissolve the union of
Kalmar.”
“What do you say about your own Reformation?” said
Birger.
“That it has nothing to do with the twilight of the gods,
which the Captain wants to hear about—tell us what you
Swedes believe about that.”
“Why, we Swedes do not believe in it at all; it is not
like the legends of the Walpurgis Night, or the death of
Baldur, which are annually kept alive by the change of
seasons which they commemorate. This legend has lost its
hold on the popular mind; but it is a curious theory, notwithstanding,
because it contains evident traces of a revelation
corrupted, because disjoined from that people to whose
guardianship had been committed the oracles of Divine
Truth. In the twilight of the gods may be clearly traced
a representation of the end of the world, such as is revealed
to us:—a fierce winter, the most terrible natural affliction
to the northern mind, is to usher it in; then comes the
general falling away, which we are ourselves taught to
expect.[57]
“The sun and the moon are to be devoured by the wolves,
that have been continually pursuing them ever since
creation, and every now and then, by seizing them, have
caused eclipses; the stars fall, the earth quakes so that the
trees are shaken from their roots, and the mountains totter;—then
the Midgard Serpent turns on its ocean bed, and an
immense wave rushes over the land, upon which floats the
phantom ship, Naglfar, which is built of the nails of dead
men—the wolf, Fenrir, together with the midgard serpent,—both
of them the offspring of Loki, the Principle of Evil,—which
hitherto have been chained down by the Æsir, are
now permitted to break loose; the heavens are cleft in
twain, and the sons of Muspell, the Band of Brightness,
headed by Surtur the Avenger, ride through the breach, and
advance by the bridge of Bifrost which bursts asunder
beneath them. For the time the Avengers join their
bright bands with Loki and the Children of Darkness, and
advance to the battle-field of Vigrid, where the destinies of
the world are to be decided.
“In the mean while the gods are fully prepared; Heimdall,
the Warder of Heaven, has sounded the Horn Gjallar,
and the gods assemble in council;—Valhalla pours out from
its five hundred and forty gates its hosts of heroes; these,
which are the men who have been slain in battle from the
beginning of the world, and ever since have been trained by
daily tournaments for this very purpose, are eager for the
combat; and Odin, having previously ridden over for the last
time to the Well of Mimir, and consulted the Norna, marshalls
his hosts on the field of Vigrid; loud and desperate is
the battle, the Powers of Evil fall one by one before the gods,
but very few of these survive the conflict. Thor, having
killed the Midgard Serpent, falls exhausted with his efforts
and dies; Frey, who has parted with the sword of victory,
falls before the avenger, Surtur; Loki and Heimdall engage
in battle and mortally wound each other; Odin himself is
swallowed up by the wolf Fenrir, which is instantly destroyed
by Vidar; and last of all, Tyr, the God of Victory, falls in
the very act of overcoming the dog Garm.
“Surtur the Avenger, having now no opponent, sets the
earth and the heavens on fire with his excessive brightness,
and the whole race of men is consumed, with the exception
of certain chosen individuals who lie hid and protected in
the forest of Hodmimir. Then Surtur himself retires before
Vidar, the God of Silence, who, calling to him Modi and
Magni (Courage and Might) the sons of Thor (Violence),
and summoning Baldur (Innocence) from the realms of Hela
(Night or Invisibility), founds a new heaven and a new earth,
and a new race of inhabitants, and they dwell on the plains
of Ida (perpetual youth), where Asgard formerly stood, and
their descendants shall spread over the new earth, which
shall be lighted by a new sun.
“‘The radiant sun
A daughter bears
Ere Fenrir takes her;—
On her mother’s course
Shall ride that maid
When the gods have perished.’
“And now, to quote the conclusion of the Prose Edda, ‘If
thou hast any further questions to ask, I know not who can
answer thee, for I never heard tell of any one who could
relate what will happen in the other ages of the world.
Make, therefore, the best use thou canst of what has been
imparted to thee.’”
“Why,” said the Captain, “this is Revelation!”
“To be sure it is,” said the Parson; “and my wonder is
not that so much of revealed truth should have been corrupted,
but that so much should have been preserved. There
is no occasion for the sneers of those who say that in the
conversion of Scandinavia, St. Ansgar merely substituted
Valentine for Vali, St. Philip for Iduna, and our Lord for
Baldur. He had, in truth, little to teach his converts beyond
explaining allegories, and shewing them that their religion
was only a mild, yet tolerably faithful type of that which
was actually true,—that Thor and Odin were attributes, not
persons, and that Asgard and Gimli, and Hela and Nifleheim,
were states and conditions, not places.”
It must not be supposed that this conversation had been
continued altogether without interruption. Shots had from
time to time rung through the night-air; some faintly and
from great distances; some, as it would seem, within a few
hundred yards of them; there was evidently something restless
in the circle of the skal, but their own sentries gave no
notice, and the ear becoming accustomed to such noises, the
shots had of late been little regarded.
One moment, however, changed the whole aspect of affairs,
and recalled the thoughts of the party from the heights of
Asgard to the affairs of middle earth.
A shot from the foot of the pass; then another! “Hjortarne!
hjortarne!” (the stags! the stags!) roared out the
sentries.
The Captain sprang into a dark corner, bringing the whole
blaze before him, and cocked his rifle. Then came a sound
like a troop of horse at full gallop—a rush!—a charge!
Jacob flying into the arms of the sportsmen, his coffee pot
scattering around its fragrant contents,—dark forms bounding
across the bright spot of light, scattering the men, and
the wet clothes, and the cookery, and the crockery! A
crack from the Captain’s rifle! a crash! and the whole scene
passed away like an illusion, leaving the circle tenantless, in
the midst of which the great fire was blazing away as quietly
and peaceably as if nothing unusual had ever been illumined
by its light.
“By the Thousand! that shot told somewhere,” said
Birger, picking himself up. “By George, it is Jacob! poor
devil! Well, I am sorry for him, the old scoundrel.”
But Jacob, when he could be brought to his senses, could
not find out that he had been wounded at all, though his
great unwieldy frock-coat was split up the back, and the tails
rolled in some unaccountable way round his head. His
ideas, which were never peculiarly bright, had got completely
bewildered, and nothing could convince him that a legion of
Trolls had not been making a ball-room of his ample back.
“It was not Jacob I fired at,” said the Captain, quietly
reloading his rifle; “take a pine knot, and look a little
further up the pass; I suspect you will find something more
valuable than our fat friend. Oh, that’s it!” as a loud shout
was heard; “I thought it could not be far off,—bring him
into the light.”
Birger repeated the command in Swedish, and presently
three or four of the men emerged from the outer darkness,
bearing, with some difficulty, an enormous elk, the patriarch
of the forest.
“Well done,” said Birger; “capital shot! Here! Tom,
Torkel, out with your knives, and off with the skin; do not
think twice about it. Ten to one we shall have Moodie
here; he will not mind his own people much, but he knows
that we are not in the habit of firing into the air, and he will
be coming to see what has been disturbing the camp all
night. There, look sharp! never mind a tear or two; make
that beast into goat’s flesh as soon as you can. Cut off the
head at once, you cannot disguise the horns!”
“Well, but what if Moodie does see it?” said the Parson.
“Why,” said the Captain, “Birger is quite right. Moodie
is in command, and he would consider it his duty to report
us; and besides, I will answer for it he would jump at the
chance of playing Brutus, and delating his own friends.
There was a good deal of significance in the way he cautioned
us that elks and red-deer were strictly preserved. It is a
fact, too, that with all that immense range of royal forest at
his undivided command, he has never shot a stag or an elk
yet. He considers himself on honour, and behaves like a
gentleman and a kammerjunker, as he is.”[58]
“He is the only man in Sweden who does, then,” said
Birger. “I will engage for it. Bjornstjerna, Hof Ofwer
Jagmästere, as he writes himself, never loses a chance if he
can get one on the sly. By the way, how nicely the mist
has cleared off, without any one seeing it. Positively I can
see the stars again. I told you it would be so:—
“Through storm and rain,
The weary midnight hours must wane,
Ere joyous morning come again,
And bid the gloom retire.”
“I wish I could take you up to our day look-out place,”
said the Captain; “we should have a good view of the watch-fires
from it now. I stood there for an hour together on the
first night, looking at the fires of the hållet; and by this time
the dref must have come quite near enough for us to see
them too.”
“Well,” said Birger, “come along! I think I know the
way,—it is the path I came down by this morning, is it not?”
“Yes it is, but it will never do on a dark night like this;
it is not over-safe by day, and there are shreds of the mist
hanging about us still. We want light for that path.”
“And light you shall have,” said Birger. “Here, Tom,
split me this fir-root, it is as full of turpentine as it can hold.
There,” continued he, thrusting the end of one of the slips
into the blaze, and striking up the song of the Dalecarlian
miners:—
“‘Brother, kindle thy bright light,
For here below ’tis dark as night;
Gloomy may be on earth thy way,
But light and good shall make it day.’
“Now then, I think we start by this ledge; light another
of these pine-slips, Tom, and bring the whole bundle with
you.”
The path was not altogether a safe one, certainly, for it
was a narrow ledge, winding round the face of the cliff that
formed the northern side of the pass, and leading to a sort of
promontory which jutted forward somewhat in advance of
the range; but there were plenty of branches to hold on by,
and there was no real danger as long as there was light
enough to see where to place the feet; and when they had
got fairly out of the range of their own enormous fire, the
stars were glimmering, and the night was not, after all, so
very dark. A withered ash, the bare trunk of which stretched
out horizontally, like a finger-post, from the extreme point,
was their look-out, and bore the strip of calico, once white,
but now sullied and dishonoured by twenty-four hours of
continuous rain, which marked the position of their picket.
The look-out commanded completely the position of the
hållet, the encampment of which was placed among some
straggling copse that feathered the reverse slope of the spur
of rock which connected the range of hills with the rapids
and falls of the river. Among this bushwood were scattered,
irregularly, the cooking and sleeping fires, glancing every
now and then on the huts of boughs and other temporary
shelter which had been run up to protect the men from the
wet, while, on the bare crest of the spur, which had been
entirely denuded of what little timber it possessed, was a
line of fifty watch-fires, one to each skalfogde’s command;
each of these had its stoker, who from time to time replenished
its blaze with fresh logs,—and its sentry, who, sitting or
lying in some dark recess, was to fire at everything that
came within the circle of the light. Everything betokened
extreme watchfulness; not a fire burnt dim,—black figures
were continually passing and repassing before them,—and
every now and then a straggling shot waked up the echoes,
and kept the whole line in a state of continual agitation.
The dref, which had advanced a little during the day, was
still five or six miles off, and their fires, which formed a vast
semicircle, were, for the most part, hidden by the trees; but
a hazy and continuous line of misty light defined the whole
position, tinging the very sky with redness, so that the receding
skirts of the mist looked luminous, like a terrestrial aurora
borealis.
While they yet gazed, the tree tops, which, beyond the
reflection of the fires, had hitherto been one unbroken sea
of blackness, came gradually into view: first the spiry tops
of the firs, then the rounder and softer outlines of the birch
and ash, grew more and more defined; then the character
of the foliage became distinguishable,—the glaucous white of
the poplar and the fringiness of the ash and rowan: then a
soft pale light, interspersed with deep broad shadows, was
cast over the scene, slightly dimming the glow of the watch-fires,
and contrasting strangely with their yellow light; and
then the half moon rose up from the cliffs behind them, illuminating
the distant landscape, but bringing that immediately
beneath their feet into blacker and darker shade.
“Your friend Bjornstjerna is a plucky fellow,—that I will
say for him; most men would have turned tail at such a
drench of rain as we have had; and now virtue promises
to be its own reward—we shall have a glorious day to-morrow.”
“I think we shall,” said Birger,—“indeed, I am sure we
shall, as far as the weather is concerned; but I am afraid
that will not prevent us from suffering some loss by what we
have had already. You may depend on it every beast
within our circle has gone the rounds and tried the weak
points of it,—some have escaped, at all events. The wolves
last night, and the stags just now, have forced the passage
with very little loss; and certainly ours is not the most unguarded
spot in the line.”
“By George! Birger! that shot is from our post!”
“Not a doubt of that;—and there’s another! Wait a bit,
it may be nothing after all.”
“O! but it is something!” said the Captain, in an agony,
as three or four more shots rang from the out-post itself,
followed by confused cries and shouts, as if men were engaged
in mortal conflict.
The Captain threw himself on the steep descent, the whole
of which he would have accomplished very much quicker than
was at all salutary for his bones, had not Birger caught him
by the collar as he was disappearing.
“For God’s sake, mind what you are about! Take a torch
in your hand, if you must go; or, better still, let Tom go
first. Whatever it is, the thing must be over long before
you can get there. All you will do at that headlong speed
will be to break your neck down the precipice!”
Tom, much more cool, had already taken the lead, and was
throwing a light on the narrow and broken pathway for the
Captain to see where to place his footsteps. Birger’s selection
of Tom for a leader was a good one, for it was absolutely impossible
for one man to pass another during the descent, and
no threats or entreaties from the Captain could urge the
phlegmatic Norwegian beyond the bounds of strict prudence.
The last ten feet of the rock the Captain leaped, and pounced
down from above into the midst of the picket.
Before the great fire lay a full-grown bear, dead, and
bleeding from a dozen wounds, and round him were grouped
the whole picket—including the sentries, who had deserted
their posts,—whooping, and hallooing, and screaming, and
making all sorts of unintelligible noises.
The story was soon told, when the men had been reduced
to something like order. The bear had been attempting to
steal past the first fire, and, sidling away from it, had almost
run over the two sentries, who were much too frightened to
fire with any aim or effect. The bear, almost as frightened
as they, had rushed forward, but, startled at the great blaze
upon which he came suddenly at the turn of the pass, hesitated
a moment, and received Torkel’s spear in his breast.
The rifles and guns, which were lying about, were caught
up and discharged indiscriminately, and, as luck would have
it, without taking effect on any of the party. Some rushed
on with their axes, some with knives, some with blazing
brands; and the bear dropped down among them, mobbed
to death, every individual of the party being firmly convinced
that it was he, and none but he, who had struck the victor
stroke.
“Well!” said Birger, “there is the bear, at all events; and
a good thing for us that he is there; we should not have
heard the last of it from Moodie for some time, if he had
slipped off. Hang him up, my men; we will skin him when
we have time and daylight; we do not want to make goat’s
meat of that fellow, at all events. Hang him up openly, by
the side of the wolf.”
“Bother that moon,” said the Captain, sulkily, for he did
not enter into the spirit of ‘quod facit per alium facit per
se.’ “What a set of lunatics we were to go staring after the
picturesque instead of minding our business; all of us together,
too!”
“It was very poetical,” said the Parson.
“Yes, that is the very thing. Birger, you do not take in
the allusion, I can see—a ‘grāte powut,’ as they pronounce
it, is, in Ireland, slang for an irrecoverable fool.”
“Well! well!” said Birger, laughing,—for, being an old
bear-hunter, he was not jealous, and could afford to laugh,—“we
have not got to the higher flights of poetry yet, and
we will take good care not to leave our posts again. As for
you, Captain, pends-toi, brave Crillon, nous nous sommes combattus
à Arcques et tu n’y étais pas. However, I think we had
better get a little sleep, those who can, for the chances are
we shall want steady nerves to-morrow.”
So, sending back the sentries to their posts, the whole
party, with their weapons by their sides, and everything
ready for a sudden emergency, rolled themselves up in their
cloaks, with their feet to the fire, one of them (taking it by
turns of an hour each) walking up and down, rifle in hand,
within the circle of its light.
CHAPTER XXVI. BEATING OUT THE SKAL.
“Now the hunting train is ready. Hark, away! By dale and height
Horns are sounding,—hawks ascending up to Odin’s halls of light.
Terror-struck, the wild-wood creatures seek their dens ’mid woods and reeds;
While, with spear advanced pursuing, she, the air Valkyria speeds.”
Frithi of Tegner.
“Hillo, Moodie! what news?” said the Captain; “have
a cup of coffee and a—a—chop,” as that individual strode
down the pass from the side farthest removed from the skal
looking—as, indeed, was very nearly the case—as if he had
neither trimmed his beard nor washed his face since the
beginning of the campaign.
“Why, the news is, that you had better look out sharp, if
you mean to do credit to my recommendation. I had a
message from Bjornstjerna last night, that he meant to get
the dref in motion an hour before sunrise, so as to beat out,
and give the men time to get home before evening; they
must have been advancing for these two hours; our people
have heard their shouts distinctly enough, and I only wonder
we have had no game yet. Capital mutton chops, these,” he
added; “who is your butcher?”
“O, we are pretty good foragers,” said the Captain, carelessly,
but at the same time casting an anxious glance round
the encampment, to see whether there were any tell-tale horns
or hoofs lurking about. “Terrible weather yesterday, was
not it?”
“Upon my word, it was as much as I could do to keep
the men at their posts; I have got one or two skulkers down
in the Länsman’s books, but I do not think I can have the
conscience to inflict the fine; I had half a mind to skulk
myself;—we must do it, though, in justice to the honest
fellows who braved the weather. I think the best man I
have is a woman; she did more service in shaming the men
and keeping them to their duty than a dozen of us. I had
occasion to degrade a skalfogde for drunkenness, and I promoted
her into the vacancy on the spot. How the men
laughed: they call her some Swedish equivalent to the
‘Dashing White Serjeant,’—and I only wish I had a dozen
white serjeants instead of one. But what have you done
here in the shooting way? I heard a good deal of firing last
night from your post; you have made yourselves pretty
comfortable, at all events.”
“It is a way we have in the army,” said the Parson.
“There is our spoliarium, however,” pointing to a group of
carcasses that were hanging to the lower branches of a fir,—“one
bear, two wolves, five foxes, a lot of hares, and”—here
the Captain plucked his sleeve,—“and—that is all,
besides a young bear which I killed in the fjeld as I came
along.”
“Oh come! that is not so bad; and that bear is a glorious
fellow! who killed him?”
“Why, we cannot justly say,” replied the Captain, sheepishly:
“the fact is, he made a charge upon the picket, and it
took a good many hands to quiet him,—you may see that by
the gashes; I am afraid the skin is terribly injured.”
“What a mercenary dog you are; these are honourable
scars, which, while they impair the beauty, only enhance the
value;—every cut is the memorial of a gallant deed.”
Whether the Captain,—who was vehemently anxious to
kill a bear to his own hand, and whose conscience upbraided
him bitterly for his last night’s dereliction of duty,—coincided
in this sentiment, might be doubted; at all events, he
made no attempt to remove the doubt by indiscreet confessions,
and was only too glad to shift the subject, lest any
untimely observation from his companions or attendants
might reveal the true state of the case.
“What have you done yourself?” said he; “I am sure
your people must have fired twenty shots for our one; I
thought you were having a mock skirmish, at one time.”
“O, those people fire at anything or nothing, just for the
sake of making a noise. We have got a good many wolves
and foxes, though, and a rascally lynx or two; but we have
not been so fortunate as you with the bears; though I am
clear we saw two or three during the night. I am sorry to
say that there were three or four stags killed, and I do not
know what to do about it. There was a herd last night very
restless; it had tried our line at several points. I had given
strict orders to let them pass, but they always got headed
back, somehow,—in fact, the men fired at them, that is the
truth of it, and the skalfogdar say they could not prevent
them. This morning, as many as three were brought in
dead, and I am sure I do not see how I am to identify the
men who fired; they were firing all night, and every skalfogde
stoutly denies that his party had anything to do
with it.”
“Oh! how were the people to distinguish one beast from
another in the dark?” said the Captain; “you may be
thankful they have not shot one another, and that you have
not had three or four peasants brought in this morning,
instead of three or four deer.”
“Upon my word, there would have been less said if it had
been so. However, I must report it to Bjornstjerna, and
leave him to do what he pleases. I strongly suspect my
dashing white serjeant of being one of the murderers. Give
me another chop,—that mutton of yours is the very best
thing I have eaten since we left Gäddebäck,—and then you
really must get to your posts; we shall have the dref down
upon us before we know where we are. Several hares had
been showing themselves, and trying to pass the line before
I came up, and they will not do that by daytime, unless they
are driven. You had better break up the encampment as soon
as you have done breakfast: let Jacob stow everything ready
for moving, and then send him off to have the carioles harnessed.
The skal will break up before noon, and then there
will be such a rush of fellows wanting to get home, that the
chances are we shall have a Flemish account of our horses, if
we do not look sharp after them now. People are in no ways
particular on these occasions; there are so many of them, that
it is difficult to fix the blame anywhere, and all roguery
goes down to the account of mistake and confusion.”
“Very well,” said the Captain, jumping up and carefully
loading the rifle which Tom had just been cleaning from the
effects of the night’s dews and rain, while the shot-gun had
been doing duty in its place by the Captain’s side,—“then
here goes; I am going to the foot of the pass, and shall
not want Tom this half hour, so he may help Jacob. Birger
is going to the look-out place, and he will not want his man
either. What will you do, Parson?”
“Why, I think I will take a turn with Moodie down the
hållet, when he goes back to inspect his posts. I shall want
Torkel to carry my rifle, as I may not come back here; but
your two men will be enough to help Jacob. How are we
to carry these great beasts?”
“Oh, that is Bjornstjerna’s business. I dare say he has
given orders for a sufficient number of carts, or, at all events,
we shall have men enough to carry them when the skal breaks
up. These are public property,—you need not trouble yourselves
about them; what we have to think about is our own
little belongings.”
“Public property!” said the Captain; “I did not bargain
for that; I want the skins to hang up in my paternal halls,
as trophies of the battle.”
“Then you must buy them,” said Moodie; “there will be
an auction up the village as soon as the skal breaks up, and
by offering a little more than the market price, you may
secure anything that you want. It really is a very fair regulation,”
he added, observing a shade of discontent on the Captain’s
brow. “You shot them, no doubt; but you could
not have got a shot at them at all if it had not been for these
people driving them. Properly speaking, they belong to
Bjornstjerna, but I understand he has given up his right to
the men, if so, they will all be converted into brandy before
night-fall, you may be quite sure. However, come along,—that
last volley was from the dref, and it sounded quite
close.”
Moodie’s path was by no means either easy or safe, for he
carefully avoided the straight road which would have led him
across the shooting line, and contriving to make a circuit and
scramble down the face of the cliff at a small fissure, which
lay a quarter of a mile to the north of the pass, he attained
the rear of the hållet without disturbing or tainting the
ground. It may be observed, that there was no such extreme
necessity for all this precaution; but Moodie was, after
all, an Englishman, and a hunter of but four years’ standing,
and, if he was the least bit in the world a martinet, he
was not altogether without excuse,—and really his position
was, it must be confessed, very scientifically occupied.
At the time that he and the Parson came on the ground,
the hållet was just relieving guard, in order to give the
morning watch an opportunity of breakfasting before the
general turn out; and the scene was extremely picturesque.
The breakfast was an extempore affair enough, except
among those parties who had been so fortunate as to
knock a hare on the head, or to secure a joint of what
Moodie turned his face away from, and the Captain persisted
in calling mutton. A little rye meal, mixed up cold,
or in special cases, when kettles could be had, made into
stirabout, was very nearly the whole of it. An older commander
would have closed his eyes to the sight of brandy,
and his nose to the smell of aniseed, but Moodie was young,
and faithful to his trust.
Groups of men and women were collected round the fires
for cooking, some rubbing up firearms, some snapping and
oiling obstinate locks and picking touchholes which the wet
had damaged, and drying powder which either would not go
off at all or else flashed in the eyes and singed the hair
and eyebrows of the operators. Gradually, however, they
all began to straggle into their line, for the sounds of the
dref were more and more audible, and now and then some
scared and crouching beast would show itself on the side of
the hill, and after drawing upon itself the fire of all who
were within a quarter of mile of it, would shrink timidly
back into cover, nine times in ten absolutely unharmed.
Now would come, high over head, and altogether free from
the chance of shot, a gallant blackcock or a tjäder, who,
having run or flitted under cover for miles, had at last taken
heart of grace, looked his danger in the face, and dashed
across the line with that success which bravery deserves.
Hares would from time to time race along the brow, unable
to make up their mind which way they would head, and
sometimes would draw a fruitless shot or two from a young
and over-ardent sportsman, followed by the grave rebuke of
his steadier skalfogde.
Meanwhile the Captain had advanced along into the
shooting line, and building himself up a screen of branches,
where he could fully command the passage, waited patiently
for what luck would send him; absolutely despising the
smaller game that occasionally stole across the line and
sheltered themselves in fancied security in the skalplatz,
and not greatly disturbed by the occasional double-shots
from Birger’s look-out place on the cliff above, though this
was not unfrequently followed by a rattle of the twigs, or a
soft thud, as his victim came tumbling to the earth.
Birger’s post, indeed, had proved an excellent position for
winged game, for the grouse, though by no means plentiful
anywhere in Sweden, had been collected from twenty miles
of country by the continued driving. Many, of course, had
taken wing, and dashing over the heights, had found security
in the higher fjeld, or across the river. But the grouse,
especially the old cock, is a running bird, and numbers of
them had continued toddling away by short and startled
runs, a mile or so in advance of the dref, and now, hearing
the noises in front as well as in the rear, and beginning to
comprehend the precise dangers of their position, were, one
after another, taking wing. Many of these followed the line
of the cliffs, unwilling, perhaps unable to face them, but coasting
their inequalities, and looking out for a lower point;
these would come exactly on a level with Birger’s stand, and
very seldom passed it unharmed.
All this the Captain left unheeded; his soul was above
black game; and, burning to wash away the disgrace of the
preceding night, he kept his eye resolutely fixed on the
shooting line; something moves—it is a bear—no—a rascally
wolf, in that nonchalant style which no amount of
danger will induce him to put off, slouches across—not across,
for he is worthy of the Captain’s rifle; a shot reaches him,
and he rolls over and over to the very foot of the shelter he
had sought. Not a stir is heard from the Captain’s screen,
and when the little puff of white smoke is dissipated into
air, no one would have told where the fatal shot had come
from. There goes a real full-grown bear, in downright
earnest, and followed by two half-grown cubs, crouching and
squatting, and making themselves as small as possible, like
so many rabbits stealing out of cover; but confound them,
they are three hundred yards down the line, the Captain
will not risk wounding or missing them, and they disappear
into the trees of the skalplatz to be headed back by the
hållet when too late to return.
And now the shouts and cries began to come louder and
louder; and the hares, which had lingered as long as possible
on the edge of the wood, began to creep, or steal, or race, or
bound across the line, and among them several specimens of
better game; the men were actually beginning to show
themselves here and there in what, from the closing in of
the ranks, had now become close order, so that nothing could
have passed their line, when a gallant bear, with head erect
and mouth open, dashed into the opening at full gallop, and
came straight upon the Captain’s hiding-place, as if he knew
where his enemy was lying, and meant, at all events, not to
die without vengeance.
The Captain fired deliberately,—paused for a moment to
see the effect of his shot—then fired his second barrel; both
took effect on the broad chest exposed to him, though without
checking, for a moment, the rush of the bear. On he
came!—the screen went down like reeds before him; but
the Captain had thrown himself flat on the ground, and,
covered by the branches, had escaped the view of his adversary,
who plunged over them, dashed at the opposite cover,
and disappeared from view.
“Upon my word, that was a near thing,” said Bjornstjerna,
who cantered up to the spot on his pony; “but a miss is as
good as a mile,—not that you missed that rascal; I saw
both shots strike as plainly as ever I saw anything in my
life. Never mind, my boy, you have not lost him; he will
not go far, for all his gallant bearing. Larssen!” he shouted,
“Larssen! come here and take my pony. We must ride the
Apostle’s horse[59] now;” and, leaping off, he proceeded to arrange
his army, causing each skalfogde to muster his own
men, as they came up, on the edge of the shooting line.
Soiled, and wet, and dirty they looked: a Swede is rather a
picturesque animal, when you are far enough off not to see
his dirt, particularly when there is any general muster of
them, for as each parish weaves its own wadmaal, or coarse
cloth, and each wears it of a particular colour or pattern, the
commencement of a skal looks, at a little distance, like a
muster of regular troops, in regular, though rather eccentric
uniforms: but the rains, and the dirt, and the mud-stains had
reduced this to a very general average,—a sort of forest uniform
of neutral tint.
Advantage was taken of the halt to clean and reload the
fire-arms, most of which had been rendered useless in the
morning’s beat; for though the sun was shining brightly,
there had been no wind, and the rain-drops of yesterday were
glittering like diamonds on the branches, and pattering down
like a shower-bath on all who moved them.
In the mean time, the two chiefs having completed their
junction, held a short consultation, and it was determined to
advance a strong party from each side, close to the roots of
the cliffs, sufficiently numerous to allow each man to touch
his neighbour, and then to beat the skalplatz out to the
river, which, not being quite so rapid or impassable as was
expected, was guarded by the boats.
This involved the abandonment of the Captain’s picket,
which reinforced the beating party, the materiel being conveyed,
under the superintendence of Jacob, to the travelling-waggon
which had been brought as near to the scene of
action as the forest roads permitted.
And now began the real dangers of the skal,—the difficulty
of restraining the men from firing indiscriminately into the
skalplatz, and shooting everything alike,—wolf, hare, fox, or
beater.
Fortunately the men were sober, and the officers well
aware of the danger. Flags were sent into the forest to
mark the advancing line; strict injunctions were given that
none should be permitted to advance faster than his neighbours,
and a trusty man on the outside of the cover carried
a white flag about five yards before the main body of the
beaters, followed by an extempore provost marshal, with a
party of trusty men, who had orders to tie up and flog on
the spot any man who fired at anything whatever in the rear
of the flags.
All these arrangements were completed in little more than
half-an-hour, and the bugles on both sides rang out the advance.
The progress was very slow, not only on account of
the necessity of preserving the accurate line, but because the
beasts themselves required so much rousing; many of the
smaller game, and, on one occasion, even a wolf, absolutely
refused to move at all, and was knocked down or speared as
it lay. In no case was resistance made by any of the wild
beasts, with the single exception of the gallant fox, who,
desperate but unsubdued, stood boldly at bay, and bit
furiously at everything within its reach, but in vain,—for as
the line soon became two or three deep, escape was next to
an impossibility. One of the bear cubs, a three-parts grown
animal, was dispatched by a blow of a hatchet, and the other
was shot in the thick cover, by a man who had almost stepped
upon it without seeing it. The Captain’s bear, a full-grown
male, did not live ten minutes after it had gained the cover;
there was no faltering in its gait or symptom of injury, for
no muscle had been cut or bone broken by the shot, and its
pluck and energy had carried it on till it fell suffocated by
internal bleeding.
And now the shouts rang out from the river-side; the
she-bear had taken the water, and was gallantly forcing her
way across it at a point rather higher than the boats had
expected her. The stream was strong; the boats were at
some distance; the Swedes, who were never good at moving-shots,
had blazed away when she first dashed into the
stream, and there was every chance of her escape, for they
are terribly awkward in loading their terribly awkward firearms;
the rowers were pulling away for life and death, and
the heavy boats were forcing their slow progress against the
stream, which was gradually bringing the bear down to them
as she swam across it, when a long-shot from Bjornstjerna
took effect, she rolled over, recovered herself, struck out
again, but was carried down among the boats, secured, and
brought to land.
The game was then mustered,—so far, indeed, as it could
be recovered, for it was shrewdly suspected by some, that the
whole was not forthcoming. There were four full-grown
bears and three cubs, seven wolves, two lynxes, three or four
badgers, and a queer nondescript animal of the genus canis,
which they called a filfras; foxes there were in some numbers,
and this a much more valuable description of animal
than ours; hares were numberless, and also squirrels,—many
of both these last species of game, too, had been stewed and
eaten on the preceding days. Whether any other description
of larger game had been shot, did not appear. Notwithstanding
what Moodie had said about the herd of stags, none
were paraded at the muster, and as he did not, after all,
make any complaint to the Ofwer Jagmästere on the subject,
it may be concluded that the whole was a mistake or a dream
of his own, and that no such breach of forest law had been
committed by any one,—a fact of which the Captain loudly
declared his complete conviction.
“Truly my brethren—truly my dear sisters—do you know how it
seems to me—why it seems to me that no one can get along till he has
taken a draught—How so? Eh? Your health, dear soul—
Here’s to you day and night,
New raptures, new delight.
Strike up with the fiddles! beat the drums! a stout pull at the pot!
Here’s to ye as is fit,
The reckoning day endeth it.
The big bottle hail ye,
The drums beat reveiller,
At one draught down send it,
The reckoning will end it.
Kajsa Stina stands a drawing,
All my heart is clapper-clawing,
From the pot my fingers thawing—
Thus I sing my dying song.”
Fredman’s Epistle to Kajsa Stina, Karl Bellman.
Never had the arches of the old forest rung with such
shouts and screams, and roaring songs, and bursts of laughter,
as they did on the evening of the great skal. A few of the
elderly people, but a very few, had had enough of it, and
went off quietly to their homes as soon as they were released
from duty; as for the rest, no one could have supposed that
they had been worked off their legs, and kept from their
natural sleep, and drenched to the skin for the last three or
four days and nights; they were not over-clean, certainly,
though some of the youngsters had contrived, somehow or
other, to smarten themselves up for the occasion; but the
rest made a great contrast to the women, those at least who
had taken no active part in the skal,—their white woollen
jackets, or scarlet or green spencers covered with embroidery
and buttoned down the front with silver knobs, formed a
pleasing relief to the dinginess and raggedness of active
service. As for the unfortunate buglers, who, most of them,
were general musicians, and would play upon anything
that was wanted, these, without the least regard to their
previous fatigues, which had been even greater than those
of the beaters, were placed upon barrels, or carts, or stumps
of trees, fiddling and clarionetting for the bare life, while
men and women tore in wild polska round them.
Some travellers have characterized the Swedish dances as
indecent; whether they are so or not, English papas, and
mamas, and maiden aunts are very competent judges, for they
are precisely the English polka, as we call it (dropping the s for
convenience of pronunciation); the English polka is, in reality,
the national peasant dance of Sweden; and in their own
country the Swedes dance it with all their hearts and souls
as well as their limbs and bodies—not sliding and mincing as
we do, but downright pounding, so as to leave the print of
the foot, and especially the heel, on the yielding turf.
It might seem difficult to provide refreshments for such
a ball-room in such a place, where the dancers mustered
somewhere about two thousand strong—but in truth they
were no way nice. The game, which Bjornstjerna had very
liberally given up to them, formed a good part of these
refreshments, a few sheep—“really sheep this time,” the
Captain observed,—with a good supply of rye-meal made into
stirabout, formed the solids, and these, though, with the
exception of the game, they did not grow in the forest, were
easily procurable, for the families of the combatants, knowing
that a party of English gentlemen were engaged in the skal,
and rightly conjecturing that their hearts would be open,
had brought their stores to the meet, and all of these stores
were not exactly solids; the barrels on which the fiddlers
were standing were intended for something better than rye-meal:
in fact, corn brandy, and a hot fiery liquor which they
make out of potatoes—very beastly to the taste, but quite as
efficacious in producing drunkenness as the very best Cognac—was
in plenty, and, the restrictions of the skal being at an
end, there was every prospect that the men would fully
indemnify themselves for their previous abstinence.
Birger and Moodie were stamping, and polking, and
hurrahing, and kissing their partners with the best of them,
and the Captain, also, was not altogether unsuccessful in
his coup d’essai; as for the men, Tom and Piersen had
altogether forgotten the inferiority of the Swedes to the true
Norwegians, and Jacob’s long streaming coat tails had gone
quite mad.
Torkel, alone, stung by some jest from his friend Tom,
about the peculiar duties and system of self-denial proper for
an engaged man, crept up rather discontentedly to the fire,
at which the Parson was standing and talking over the
events of the day with Bjornstjerna.
In Norway, which in reality is a republic, and not a
monarchy, there is a great deal of independence and equality
among all ranks, which is not by any means the case in
Sweden; but even in Sweden, a skal is a time of saturnalia;
and besides, Torkel, though in some measure acting in the
capacity of a servant, was, in reality, the son and heir of a
sufficiently wealthy proprietor; and the Englishmen, whom
he ranked infinitely higher than he did the very first of
Swedish nobility, having treated him all along more as a
companion than anything else, he felt not the least shy of
the Hof Ofwer Jagmästere, though he added the title of
Count to his official honours,—and therefore entered very
readily into conversation.
They were turning over the skins of those beasts the
bodies of which were already undergoing a conversion into
soup; most of these had been purchased by the party, and
were laid aside for packing; but the lynxes and the filfras,
and some others, which are not considered good for eating,
were still hanging by their heels to the lower branches of
the tree.
The filfras was a curious animal, about three feet long, but
low in proportion to its length, with great splay feet, well
calculated to form natural snow shoes—in fact, he leaves a
track almost as large as that of a full-grown bear, and upon
the whole, very like one, and climbs trees even better and
quicker than his big brother. The present specimen had
been detected on a tree, and being wounded while in the act
of passing from one branch to the other, had come to the
ground; but, wounded as he was, he had fought gallantly for
his life, and had bitten so severely the first man who attempted
to handle him, that he was obliged to leave the skal
and go home. The filfras is a harmless beast enough, so far
as sheep and cattle are concerned, and lives chiefly upon
hares and such game, which, though his eyesight be not very
quick, a remarkably keen scent enables him to tire down—he
himself, in return, is even detected by his own scent,
which is perfectly perceptible to human nostrils, and extremely
disagreeable,—few dogs can be got to run him.[60]
The lynx, though of the tiger race, is a very harmless
beast unless attacked; he may carry off a young lamb now
and then, but very seldom kills his own mutton—it is not
for want of spirit, for he fights like any tiger when driven
into a corner; throwing himself on his back, he polishes off
the dogs as fast as they come near him. A pack of English
fox-hounds might settle his business, as they probably would
that of his Bengal cousin himself; but there is not a dog in
Sweden that would look him in the face.
“It is a great pity,” said Torkel; who was examining the
shot-holes in the bear-skins.
“What is a great pity?” said the Parson.
“Why, to mob to death all these fine beasts, that might
have given people no end of sport in the winter.”
“And eaten up no end of sheep and oxen,” said Bjornstjerna.
“Ah! well!” that did not strike Torkel very forcibly; he
had, it must be confessed, led hitherto a rather miscellaneous
sort of life; he knew a great deal more about hunting than
he did about farming, and regarded the depredations of the
bear—though some of them had been made on his father’s
own farm—much in the light in which an English fox-hunter
listens to tales of murdered geese and turkeys.
The matter which weighed upon his conscience just then
was, that poor Nalle[61] had not received altogether fair
play. This had not struck him during the heat of the
chase so very much, but, now that the murder had been committed,
and that he was regarding the result of it in cold
blood, he evidently did not feel quite easy in his mind about
it.
“Ah!” he said, “poor fellow,” turning over the skin of
Bjornstjerna’s own bear, which was yet wet with the water
of the river in which he had been killed; “well! we do not
do such things in our country.”
“No!” said Bjornstjerna, “you could not get a couple of
thousand people together in your country without knives
drawn.”
“But how do you manage it in your country?” said the
Parson, who was not a little afraid that his follower’s nationality
would get the better of his politeness.
“Ah!” said Torkel, “you should see one of our Norwegian
bear-hunts in the winter; it is not an easy thing to
get Master Nalle on foot, and he takes a good deal of
looking after; but, when you do get a chance, it is worth
having.
“I remember my brother Nils one day, as he was coming
home from church, took a short cut across the fjeld, and put
his eye on a queer-looking heap in the snow, that he did not
rightly know what to make of. While he was looking at it
out came a great fellow—one of the biggest I ever followed,—as
if he would eat him. Down tumbled Nils on his face,
and the Wise One came ploutering through the snow right
over him, but went on, minding his own business, as all wise
ones do, and never stopped to look at Nils.
“It so happened that my brother Nils had nothing
but a pair of skarbogar on his feet (a rough sort of snow-shoe,
made of wood and rope), and, knowing he could not
get over the ground very well, never tried to follow him, but
came home quietly and told me what he had seen. The
weather looked fine, and there was neither snow likely to
fall, nor wind likely to drift what was fallen already, so that
we knew the tracks would lie; and the next morning, before
it was well light, we had each of us our pair of skier on our
feet, our rifles at our backs, a good iron-shod pole in our
hands to shove along by, and a week’s provision in our
havresacs. I took old Rig[62] with me, in case we should lose
the tracks.
“We soon came up with them, and off we went, taking it
leisurely—for we had a long run before us. It requires some
little exertion to get up hill with these skier; they do better for
such a country as this than they do for the rocky and tangled
fjeld in Norway; but, on flat ground, you get along five or six
miles an hour without feeling it, and as for down-hill, you
may go just as fast as you like, only for standing still and
keeping your feet.
“For four or five hours the track lay as straight and even
in the snow as if we had been travelling the post road to
Christiania. Old Nalle thought his winter quarters were
not over safe, and meant evidently to make a passage of it,
and had just been trotting along in the snow, not looking
right or left of him.
“After that the track came doubled and crooked, as if the
old gentleman had been taking a view of the country, to see
whether it would suit his purpose, before lying down for
another nap,—so we had to work it out painfully, step by
step. This was a slow job, for he had taken a turn to every
point of the compass, and had crossed and re-crossed his own
tracks, and had changed his mind so often, that the short
winter’s day began to close, and we feared the light would
fail; so we started right and left of the spot, and succeeded
in ringing him before we met again.”
“What do you mean by ringing a bear?” said the Parson.
“Making a circle round his tracks,” said Torkel, “so as to
be sure none lie beyond it; in that case you are independent
of a thaw, for you know that the old gentleman must be
within a certain space. When we met we agreed to leave
our friend quiet, and to sleep till morning; so we cut down
a tree or two, and got up a roaring fire in a little hollow to
leeward, where we were sure the bear could not see our
light or smell our smoke, and there we lay, snug and comfortable
enough.
“No thaw or mischance of any kind had taken place
during the night, and the next morning we were on the
tracks again; for we had marked the place where we had
left off, by setting up one of the poles in it.
“We soon got puzzled, however, and began to be very
thankful that we had brought old Rig. Rig was a sharp
fellow,—one of the quickest dogs I ever met with at picking
up a scent, or taking a hint either; his namesake, when he
watched at the gates of Asgard, could not have kept a
brighter look-out. The ground soon got very tangled and
sideling, so, as the ring was but a small one, we determined
to give up the tracks, and to hunt for him with the dog.
“The old fellow was not long in getting a sniff at him, and
made noise enough to wake up the Nornir in the cave of
Hela. I pushed on, and before I could tell where I was,
ran my skier one on each side a little hole in the snow, where
the dog was baying,—a place that did not look big enough
for a fox to get in. I could not very well turn, for the
points of the skier were one on each side the trunk of a great
twisted birch, at whose foot the hole was; and I could not
see what was in the hole, the snow was so dazzling in the
bright sunshine that everything else looked black. I began
to think that Rig had got hold of nothing better than a fox,
and was beginning to be angry with the dog for making such
a row, and running the chance of giving our real game a
hint to steal off. I was looking down between my skier,
with my face as low as my knees, when all at once I felt the
snow heaving up from under me, and over I rolled, head
over heels, and old Fur Jacket with me, and Rig, who had
pinned him as he bolted, on the top of us both.
“The old fellow was a great deal too much taken up with
the dog to mind me; but before Nils could come up, or I
could get my legs again, he had shaken him off, and was
dashing through the deep snow at a rate that kicked it up
in a white mist behind him.
“I had kept fast hold of my rifle, all through, and the snow
had not done it a bit of harm; in fact, the frost was so
sharp that it came out of the barrel like so much flour; and
besides, we always cover our locks with tallow after loading.
He had got pretty well out of shot before we were in chase,
but for his sins he had taken down-hill, and the ground was
pretty clear, so we slid along after him like Fenrir after
the Sun;[63] when all at once, Nils, who had a little the best of
the race, touched a stump with the point of his skie, and
flew up into the air, pitching head foremost into the snow.
It was, luckily for him, deep enough to save him from a
broken head or neck—at least, so I found afterwards, for I
had not time to stop then. As for the dog, he was a mile
behind.
“Just at the bottom of the slope, I ran in upon the chase,
and he turned short round when I was not half-a-dozen yards
from him. I could no more stop than I could stop the lightning;
so, setting my pole in the snow, I swerved a little, and
just missed going over him, as Nils had done with the
stump.
“By the time I had curved round, I found he had taken
advantage of his chance, and was going up again, travelling
three times as fast as I could hope to do, for skier are desperate
bad things up-hill. However, mine had seal-skin upon
them, luckily, for in our mountainous country we are obliged
to do something to prevent slipping back; but, for all that,
he was getting much the best of it, so I took a cool shot at
him, and heard the ball strike just as if I had thrown it into
a piece of dough, but he never winced, or took the least
notice.
“However, Nils had managed to pick himself up, and
I saw him and Rig together a good way above us, so I
waved my cap and shouted: you can hear a shout in the
winter half-a-dozen miles off. Nils changed his course, so as
to cut us off. I followed, loading as I went. By-and-bye
the old fellow seemed to find out that he had enemies on
both sides of him, for he stopped, and growled, and looked
back at me, and showed his teeth. Just then Nils made a
noise above, by breaking through some understuff; and he
turned, and came at me with his mouth open, charging down-hill
as hard as he could lick. It was ‘neck or nothing’ with
me now, I knew that, for there is no turning or dodging on
skier, going up-hill, so I rested my rifle on the fork of a
branch, and, waiting till he had come within a dozen yards
of me, I shot into his mouth. Lord! it seemed as if somebody
had given him a lift behind; his hind-quarters rose up,
and his head went down, and he came sliding along the snow
on his back, wrong-end foremost. I could not move right
or left, hampered as I was, and he took me just across the
shins with his huge carcass, breaking one of my skier,
and carrying me with him as if I were riding in a sledge;
but when we got to the bottom he never tried to hurt me,
for he was as dead as Baldur.
“That was something like a chase, and we turned a pretty
penny by it, too; we got four specie for sealing his nose,
and fourteen for his skin, to a young Englishman who
wanted to prove to his friends at home that he had killed
a bear, and gave two specie over the market price for
the shot-hole; and, for ourselves, we had lots of fat, most
of which, by the way, had got melted in the race, and
had to be frozen again before we could carry it; and,
for solid meat, the scoundrel weighed hard upon four
hundred pounds. We had pretty hard work in getting him
home, for in those two days we had run on end more than
thirty of your English miles, besides the turns. We had to
go home and fetch a sledge for him, and my sisters had a
pretty job of salting when we got him there; Kari said
that our work was not half so hard as hers.”
“It is a curious thing, much as I have been in your country,
I never saw a skie,” said the Parson; “I do not even know
what sort of things they are.”
“It would be strange if you had,” said Torkel; “we never
keep them at the sœters, for the plain reason that we do not use
them in summer at all, nor inhabit the sœters in the winter.
You have been very little in any of our permanent winter
homesteads since you have been here, and if you had happened
to put your eye upon half-a-dozen long pieces of wood,
with leather straps to them, the chances are, you would never
have thought of asking what such very ordinary-looking
articles were. I will answer for it, Herr Moodie has plenty
of them at Gäddebäck; but they are, most likely, stowed
away at the top of the house, in the winter store-room, where
you would never think of going. They are long, thin strips
of wood, of a triangular form, about three or four inches
broad, with their points curved up for a foot or so, to clear
the obstacles. In this flat country they make the left-foot
skie, which is of fir, ten or twelve feet long; the right one
is generally of ash, and not above five or six feet in length,
or they would never be able to turn in them. I, myself, like
them best both of a size, and not above five or six feet long,—only
then you must have them broader, to prevent sinking
in the snow. This is a disadvantage, certainly, still they
are much handier to dodge about the trees with, than those
unwieldy concerns they have here. Mine are a pair of old
military skier, and there are none better.”
“What! do the soldiers use them?” said the Parson.
“That they do,” said Torkel. “I was always a good
runner on skier, but I learnt a good many clever tricks at drill,
when I was serving my time of duty in the militia. Our rifle
regiment have all two light companies of skielobere, and are
drilled to light infantry movements on skates. I did not
like much being called out in the depth of winter for drill,
and not a little did I grumble at the hard work they
put us to,—scaling mountains, which we are obliged to do in
skier, like ships beating to windward; and then charging down
them among trees and stumps,—swinging this way and that,
to keep one’s rifle out of harm’s way, and then suddenly
called upon to halt and fire,—and preciously punished are we
if the piece is not ready for action. However, I did not know
what was good for me; I have been twice the man ever
since after the bears and winter game.”
“I suspect,” said the Parson, “that is pretty nearly the
whole use of your skate-drill; it must be a pretty thing to
see in a review,—but he must be a gallant enemy who undertakes
a winter campaign in Norway, unless he is descended
from the Hrimthursar themselves.”
“Well! I cannot stand this any longer,” said Moodie,
coming up; “half the party are drunk, and the rest are
half-seas over; and there’s the Captain pounding away to his
own whistling, for the last fiddler has just dropped off his
empty barrel. It is time to go to bed.”
“Bed, yes! but where are we to find it: Jacob, I
suppose, is by this time numbered with the dead drunk.”
“You may swear to that, and Tom also; I saw him very
near his end an hour ago.”
“Well I do not care, for one,” said the Parson; “my bed is
here,” and he pulled out of his cariole his trusty mackintosh,
and folding one of the sails to his own length, he spread the
mackintosh upon it. “I shall sleep here luxuriously; and
Torkel, bring me the cushion of the cariole seat. I will not
forget to tell Lota how faithful you have been to her this
day. Good night, all of you; we have work before us to-morrow.”
And so they had,—for the sun was not yet far above the
horizon, when the carioles were bumping along the forest
roads to the southward.
At Amal, Torkel, with good wishes from all, and presents
from some of the party, took his leave to prepare for what
Tom called the amending of his life, and parted on his separate
road through Fjall, and laid under contribution a market
boat from Wagne to Frederickshald, where he hoped to find a
vessel to Tonsberg, or Larvig, on the Norwegian coast. The
party proceeded leisurely along the western coast of the lake,
to enjoy for some time longer the hospitalities of Gäddebäck.
But the days began to shorten, and the joyous Scandinavian
summer to come to its close. It was necessary to think of
the homeward passage, in time to allow fine weather and
sunny days for a leisurely cariole journey along that most
picturesque of countries, the southern coast of Norway.
Torkel’s wedding day, too, was approaching, and the party
were under a half engagement to old Torgensen, which tallied
very well with the necessity of reaching Christiansand for
their homeward passage. “Time and tide wait for no man,”
and a forebud having been laid to Strömstad, the carioles, accompanied
as far as Wenersborg by Moodie, rolled away on
the road to Uddevalla.
One piece of luck attended them,—they were not yet to
part from Birger, for it so happened that his royal highness
the Crown Prince, was to pay his usual state visit to Christiania,
on which occasion he was to be attended by Count
Birger, our young scamp’s father, whose daughter, Birger’s
sister, held also some appointment in the establishment of
the Princess. Birger, therefore, was able to consult his
pleasure and his duty at once, in going to Norway; to enjoy
the coasting journey with his friends, and then to meet his
family at Christiania after their departure.
CHAPTER XXVIII. THE WEDDING.
When he came into the house at nightfall,
She was angry with him—his old mother—
“Son,” she said, “thou lay’st thy snares each morning,
And each day thou comest back empty handed!
Either thou lack’st skill, or thou art idle;
Others can take prey where thou’st taken none!”
Thus to her the gay young man made answer:
“Who need wonder that our luck is different,
When the same birds are not for our snaring?
At the little farm that lieth yonder,
Lives a wondrous bird, my good old mother;
Snares I laid to catch it all the autumn,
Now, this very winter have I caught it.
Marvellous is this bird! for it possesses
Not wings, but arms for tenderest embracing;
Not down, but locks of silky, sunny lustre;
No beak, but two fresh lips so warm and rosy!”
The Young Fowler.—Runnèberg.
It was the morning of the wedding-day, and that day, of
course, Sunday. Autumn was a little advanced, but the sky
was as serene, and the lake as still and as smiling as it was
on that day on which the fishermen had last looked
upon it.
The Parson had strolled out with Birger, after a very
hurried and uncomfortable breakfast,—the only time such
a thing had ever occurred under the hospitable roof of Torgensen;
this was not so much for exercise as for the sake of
being out of the way of the good lady Christina, who looked
as if she considered the whole of her daughter’s earthly
happiness to depend on the perfection of the wedding-dinner,
which, even at that early hour of the morning, was in the
course of preparation. Upstairs and downstairs was she, with
a face as red as her scarlet stomacher, her great bunch of
keys jingling like a sheep-bell as she moved, and her embroidered
skirt whisking round every corner. She was partially
dressed for the grand occasion, though her head was as yet
muffled in a rather dirty handkerchief, but the glories of her
holiday gown were in a great measure obscured by an
immense apron, which bore indisputable marks of something
more than mere superintendence of her peculiar department.
The whole district would be there, no doubt, for though there
are generally appointed days for weddings, and several
couples were usually married at the same time, and moreover,
the beginning of winter is a very favourite time for
such matters, yet the Torgensens were so indisputably the
squires of the place, that besides their own party which had
been collected from far and wide, and that of one or two of
their dependants who were to be married on the same day,
the chances were that they would have visitors enough from
other and inferior bridals.
Come as many as there might, there were provisions
enough for them all; there was brandy enough to float a
barge; there were heaps of fish and game of all sorts; and—a
much rarer thing at the beginning of autumn and before
the cattle have returned from the sœters,—plenty of beef and
mutton. Puddings, sweet soups, and all the infinite variety
of gröds had been in preparation for days and nights; still
the good house-mother distressed herself; and rendered uncomfortable
everything around her, lest something should
have been forgotten, and the credit of Torgensen’s hospitality
should suffer in the eyes of the strangers.
The Captain, who had offered to officiate as bridesman,
was taking lessons in his arduous duties from little Lilla, the
præst’s daughter, who, proud of her English, and not at all
unwilling to get up a flirtation with a good-looking foreigner,
had neglected her own duties as bridesmaid, and enticed the
Captain, nothing loth, to the præstgaard, where he was practising
the required duties of his office; and, to judge from the
time he took at his lessons, he must have been particularly
slow and stupid in comprehending them.
What was the morning occupation of Lota and her other
bridesmaids was a mystery,—not one of them was visible; that
it was something of an entertaining character was evident
from the tittering, and gay laughter, and occasional little
screams that proceeded from a large square-headed window
wide open on the upper-floor, and on the farthest extremity
of the building. The only anxious and unhappy-looking
countenance was that of the happy bridegroom himself, who
having nothing whatever to do, wandered up and down the
terrace with his hands in his pockets, the only idle man, and
consequently in the way of every one. Conscious that he
was the object of every body’s attention, and the butt of
those jokes which are common on such occasions, and no
where more common or less delicate than in Norway, he
laboured hard to be at his ease and succeeded but very ill.
Indeed, his new jacket, which did not come down to his
shoulder blades, and was a little too tight for him into the
bargain, and his stiff glossy trousers would alone have been
sufficient to disturb any man’s self-possession, to say nothing
of the chain of filagree silver balls, each as large as a grape-shot,
which were called shirt buttons, and hung down from
his neck; while a stout broad hat twice as broad in the
crown as in the rim, and stiffly turned up on each side,
weighed on his brows like a helmet,—so very new that it
still exhibited the creases of the paper in which it had been
packed.
Jan Torgensen, Lota’s brother, who was his other bridesman,
was doing his best to keep him in countenance, for
they had always been great allies, and in fact, Torkel had been
Jan’s preceptor in wood-craft, and, so Lota declared, in every
sort of mischief besides. At this present moment any one
who had seen them both, would have taken Jan for the preceptor
and Torkel for the pupil; and Jan for the happy
bridegroom, and Torkel for the disappointed swain,—so happy
looked Jan and so sheepish looked Torkel. But, in truth,
Jan had his own particular pride and happiness, connected,
though in a remote manner, with that of his friend. He
had just received his appointment as skipper of the Haabet,
vice Svensen, superseded in Lota’s affections by Torkel, and
in the command of the brig by Jan; for the poor fellow,
when he found how things were going with him, resigned
the command, settled accounts with old Torgensen, and,
much to the regret of the latter,—for Svensen was a first-rate
sailor,—betook himself to Copenhagen, out of the sight of his
rival’s happiness.
Jan, who was a thorough partizan, and had never liked
poor Svensen, not so much on account of any of his demerits
as out of affection for his friend Torkel (for Lota it is to be
feared, had coquetted between her admirers much more than
was altogether proper), was singing, or rather roaring, at the
full pitch of a sailor’s voice, the popular ballad of Sir John
and Sir Lavé:—
“To an island green Sir Lavé went;
He wooed a maiden with fair intent;—
‘I will ride with you,’ quoth John;
‘Put on helmets of gold, to follow Sir John.’
He wooed the maiden and took her home,
And knights and serving-men are come;—
‘Here am I!’ quoth John.
They set the bride on the bridal seat,—
Sir John, he bade them both drink and eat.
‘Drink, and drink deeply!’ quoth John.
They brought the bride to the bridal bed,—
They forgot to untie her laces red:
‘I can untie them!’ quoth John.
Sir John, he locked the door with speed;
‘Good night to you, Sir Lavé,’ he said.
‘I shall sleep here!’ quoth John.
Word was brought to Sir Lavé there—
‘Sir John is within, with thy bride so fair!’
‘That am I, in truth!’ quoth John.
At the door, Sir Lavé makes a loud din;—
‘Withdraw the bolts, and let us in!’
‘You had best keep out,’ quoth John.
He knocked at the door with shield and spear,—
‘Withdraw the bolts, and come out here!’
‘See if I do!’ quoth John.
‘If my bride may not in peace remain,
I will go and unto the king complain.’
‘Just as you like,’ quoth John.
Early next morn, when the birds ’gan to sing,
Sir Lavé is off to complain to the king;—
‘I will go, too!’ quoth John.
‘I was betrothed but yesterday,—
Sir John has taken my bride away!’
‘Yes, so I have!’ quoth John.
‘If that the maiden to both is dear,
It must be settled at point of spear.’
‘I’m very willing!’ quoth John.
As soon as the morrow’s sun was bright,
Came all the knights to see the fight;—
‘Here am I!’ quoth John.
The two were mounted, and at the first round
The knees of Sir John’s horse touched the ground.
‘Now help me, Heaven!’ quoth John.
Once more, and in the second round
Sir Lavé lies upon the ground;—
‘There let him lie,’ quoth John.
Sir John he rode to his hall in state,
And his maiden met him at the gate;—
‘Now thou art mine,’ quoth John.
Thus was Sir John made happy for life,
And the maiden became his wedded wife.
‘I knew I should have her,’ quoth John.
‘Put on helmets of gold, to follow Sir John.’”
“Come, come! Jan!” growled old Torgensen, “hold your
saucy tongue; Svensen was a better man than you will ever
be in a year of Sundays. And you, you grinning flirts,”—to
the servant-girls, with whom Master Jan was an especial
favourite, and upon whom the application was by no means
lost—“get along with you, and mind your own business,—as
if you had nothing to do, on such a morning as this, but
to listen to such fooleries! Be off with you, I say!”
In the meanwhile the Parson and Birger,—who, by the
way, hardly recognised each other in their gala habits, for
the one was habited, in honour of the occasion, in the black
dress of an English clergyman, while the other, with his sword
clinking by his side, blazed in all the blue and yellow splendour
of the Swedish guard,—took up their old position at the lich
gate of the church; one as before balancing on the stocks,
the other astride on the dwarf wall, glad to be out of the
din of preparation. It was not a happy day for any of them,
for it was the last day of the expedition, which every member
of it had enjoyed so thoroughly;—Birger’s leave of absence
was running to an end, and the two Englishmen had
taken passage with young Torgensen to the Haabet. They
were to sail—so Torgensen said—that night; but, as it was
quite certain that, before that time, the whole crew would
be drunk, in honour of their young mistress, this probably
meant to-morrow. Still, to-morrow was to be the final break-up
of the party; and Tom had been philosophizing, with
tears in his eyes, on the transitory nature of human pleasures;
and Torkel, bridegroom as he was, would willingly
have postponed his wedding if he could have prolonged the
expedition,—at least, so Lota had told him the evening
before, and he did not look as if he was speaking the truth
when he denied it.
Neither of the friends felt much inclined for conversation.
They were natives of different parts of the world; their
courses from that point lay in opposite directions; the
chances were very much against their meeting again, and,
though their acquaintance had not been of very long duration,
so far as time is concerned, one week’s campaign in the
wild forest does more towards ripening an intimacy than a
year of ordinary life.
In the meanwhile the time passed on, and the early peal
rang out, and the groups began to collect as before in the
church-yard, and the lake to be dotted with boats, all pulling
or sailing from its remoter bays and islets to the church,
as a common centre. Here and there a party, as before,
was occupied round a grave, pulling up the overgrown convolvulus
and trimming the withering leaves of the lilies.
By and by a bugle sounded a call, and a couple of fiddles
from one of the nearest boats struck up a polka.
“Here come some of the wedding parties,” said Birger;
“there seem to be plenty of happy couples in Soberud this
year. Well! there is nothing like fashion,—in this, as in
other things, one fool makes many. Look at that leading
boat!—that one, I mean, just pulling round the point of the
island!—there is a crowned bride in her! Holy Gefjon,
Mother of Maids! such a sight as that is rare in Norway!
I should think the chances were that she got some one to
pull her crown off her head before the day was over. She
does not seem much afraid, either, and an uncommonly pretty
girl, too, which makes it all the more wonderful. Well!
well! ‘a virtuous woman is a crown to her husband;’ I hope
he will appreciate his blessings as he ought, such blessings as
that do not fall to the lot of many in this country.”
“What do you mean by that, Birger?” said the Parson,
getting up, and shading his eyes with his hands as he looked
out on the lake.
“Ah, you may well shade your eyes before beauty and
innocence,” said Birger; “you do not often see them combined,
in this country.”
“Well, the fact is this,” said he, dropping his bantering
tone, “what you commonly call virtue—that is to say,
chastity,—is a very rare article indeed, I am sorry to
say, either in Norway or Sweden; the manners of the
people do not tend to foster it. Their promiscuous way of
living in the winter, and the sœter life in summer, makes it
absolutely necessary for a girl either to have a very great respect
for herself, or to be forbiddingly ugly; and whatever the
case may have been in earlier and better times, certain it is that
beauty is now much more common among us than self-respect.
Then, again, the laws which prevail in Sweden, and the
customs, which the Udal tenures in Norway make as stringent
as laws, forbid any to marry who are not householders
(whence your word husband, which simply means huus bonde—a
peasant with a house), and at the same time forbid the
erection of more than a specified number of houses on any
land. All this renders early marriages almost impossible.
The result may easily be imagined. And to make this the
more certain, our wise laws enact that a woman, having any
number of children by any number of fathers, who at any
time of her life shall marry any one whatever, by the simple
act of marriage affiliates all the children she may ever have
had on her unhappy husband; and wherever the Udal law
prevails, he is obliged to share his land equally among them.
The consequence of this is, that unchastity is no sort of disgrace.
It is the commonest thing in the world for a noble
to live with a woman all his life, under promise of marriage
to be performed on his death-bed, and the woman is all the
while received much like the Morganatic bride of a German
prince. Frederika Bremer, herself as exemplary a woman as
ever lived, has made the plot of one of her novels to hinge
on a man living in such a manner, and dying suddenly, without
being able to perform his promise. She does not attach
the shadow of disgrace to any one, except the relatives of the
deceased, who refused to acknowledge the woman merely on
account of this ‘unfortunate accident,’ as she calls it. And so
it is. Had she written otherwise, she would have been out
of costume; there is no disgrace in the matter. I do not
mean to say that this girl is not proud of her crown—of course
she is, just as I am proud of this blue and yellow ribbon of
mine,” pointing to the Order of the Sword with which he
had decorated his uniform-coat for the occasion; “but look
how she is kissing that girl in green, who has just landed
from that other boat,—that is another bride who cannot
claim the distinction; she no more thinks her disgraced, than
I should think a brother officer disgraced to whom his gracious
Majesty had not been pleased to give the same distinction
that he has to me.”
“There seem to be plenty of brides,” said the Parson, “for
there is another green lady, of damaged fame; she seems to
be a rich one, by the number of her fiddlers before, and followers
after.”
“They generally have one wedding-day for the district,”
said Birger, “and a good plan too; it diminishes the expense
when they all have their festivities together, and diminishes
the drunkenness very considerably, both on the day and on
its anniversaries, for the whole district get drunk together at
once, and get it over, instead of inviting one another to help
them to on their several wedding-days.”
“But what are the ‘crowns?’” said the Parson.
“An ancient custom, by which they challenge any imputation
on their fair fame; any one who has anything to say
against the chastity of the wearer, is privileged to pull off
the crown and to drive the lady out of the church, only the
accuser is bound to prove his allegations.”
“It seems a pretty expensive affair, at least, to judge of it
at this distance.”
“O yes, far too expensive to be the property of any individual;
they hire it for the occasion, and, I will be bound,
pay five or six dollars for the pleasure of wearing that and the
rest of the costume. Just look at her as she comes into the
light; that dress of black bombazine, with the short sleeves
and white mittens, is probably her own,—very likely it was her
mother’s before her, only fresh dyed for the occasion; but that
gay apron, with the ribbons, and beads, and the silver chains
and necklaces, I should think were hired; the dollars round her
neck are her dowry in all probability, and, consequently, her
own; so is the muff, and the handkerchiefs of various colours
that hang from it; and possibly, also, those yellow kid
gloves. But look at the crown itself! why it is silver gilt!—and
that scarf, which hangs down from the spray on the top
of it, is covered with satin lappets, three-quarters long! now
do you think a peasant would buy that? A green bridal,
you see, is a much more modest affair; they wear their silver
chains over their green bodices like the others, but on their
heads, instead of the crown, they have the ordinary wimple
of married women, made of fine white linen, and above it the
triangular snood of unmarried girls.”
“Here come our party at last! What a host they have
collected! the church will not hold them all. And there is
pretty Lota, with her bridesmaids after her. Well, I hope
no one will pull her crown off; how pretty she looks in it.”
“Not half so pretty as that little fresh-looking, innocent,
Lilla Nordlingen,” said Birger. “Upon my word I am half
inclined to make love to her myself.”
“You had better not, Mr. Guardsman, you do not stand
the ghost of a chance; how she would turn up that innocent
little Norwegian nose of hers at a brute of a Swede. Besides,
do you not see how she is making love to the Captain,
how uncommonly smart the Captain has turned out in his
red uniform! to which the moustache he has been growing
ever since he has been here, forms so appropriate an appendage.
Your blue and yellow would look dingy to eyes that
have been dazzled with such scarlet magnificence.”
“Ah, well, we will see. The Captain looks as if he were
saying to her, ‘Aimez moi vite, car je pars demain.’”
“That’s your best chance,” said the Parson, maliciously;
“but come, the bells are ringing in, and we had better get
into the ranks of the procession. Here comes Nordlingen,
with his long-legged Candidatus at his heels.”
While the Pfarrherr went in to array himself in his
robes, the different marriage parties, warned by the bells,
had begun to arrange themselves into one grand procession;
while their respective musicians, who together formed a
pretty numerous band, laid their heads together about the
tune to be played on this grand occasion, and tuned their
fiddles into concord.
The party had by this time increased considerably, and
when at last the band, having settled their harmonious differences,
marched up the nave of the church playing, somewhat
incongruously, a jolly polka, there marched after them
no less than six happy couples, with their followers, each
bride and each bridegroom having a silver ort (ninepence)
tied up under their respective garters, for luck. Only two
of the six were crowned brides, and that, Birger whispered,
as they took their places, was a wonderfully large proportion.
First after the fiddlers came the Candidatus in his gown,
who had gone out to marshal the procession; then came the
married men related to the parties, in their short blue
jackets and white-fronted shirts, some of which were clean;
then came the bridegrooms with their bridesmen, dressed
something in the same fashion, except that they affected
buckskin breeches and white stockings: each bridegroom,
by way of distinction, had a fine white handkerchief (cambric,
if he could possibly come by it), tied round his right
arm; then came the bridesmaids in green, (which there is
not an unlucky colour as it is with us), with bare heads, and
their hair, which was plaited with many coloured ribands,
hanging down their backs in two tails; then the bride-leaders,
married women, who are supposed to encourage the brides
during the ceremony, and lastly, the brides themselves, in all
their splendour. The chancel was as full as it could hold,
the principals disposing themselves round the altar, kneeling,
while the bridesmaids held canopies of shawls and handkerchiefs
over their heads, and the congregation craned in through
the chancel rails, while the priest proceeded with the service.
Scarcely was the benediction pronounced, when the fiddlers
again struck up their polka, and the happy couples, now
arm-in-arm, marched down after them, (the wedding-party
forming a sort of escort), and proceeded with great ceremony
to the præstgaard meadow, where the marriage feast—an
enormous pic-nic—was prepared for them, and where the
wedding presents, many of them of considerable value, were
set out for public inspection.
These were not exactly the expensive sort of trumpery
which forms the staple of bridal presents in England,—silver
vessels that no one ever drinks out of, and dressing cases far
too expensive for ordinary use. The presents here were real
honest implements of house-keeping or farming; pots and
pans, and plates and dishes, and chairs and tables,—spades,
pickaxes: a tonne of rye-meal was the offering of one,—a
sack of potatoes of another; here was a pile of oderiferous
salt-fish,—there a flitch of bacon, at which one of the Captain’s
best jokes missed fire—bacon having no allegorical value whatever
in Norway; here again was a good milch cow, tethered
to a tree, or half-a-dozen sheep or pigs folded with hurdles,
while the bride’s feather-beds would have borne a high
value in England. Lota’s were something quite magnificent.
With such hunters in her train, as Torkel and poor
Svensen, and her own brother Jan, (who in his younger days
and before he had found out some one to whom to transfer
his youthful allegiance, had contributed largely to his sister’s
stores), it was not to be wondered at if she easily eclipsed all
the brides of the season.
At a comparatively early hour, Torkel and his wife took
their leave, as they had that evening to reach Lönvik, a pretty
little farm in the interior, on the banks of a small lake of the
same name, which Torkel’s father had given up to him on his
marriage. But this by no means put a stop to the festivities,
which were carried on to a late hour in the night, and at
which, Sunday though it was, Nordlingen himself presided.
Sunday in Norway begins at six o’clock on Saturday night,
when invariably preparations are commenced for the next
day, in the way of looking up Sunday clothes, and brushing
up or washing out the house,—sometimes, in religious
families, by special prayer, though that is not very common,—sometimes
even by washing their own persons, though this,
it must be confessed, is rarer still,—for all of them have a very
great horror of the personal application of soap and water.
Sunday, therefore, even as a day of worship, legitimately
ceases at the same hour on the following day, and, as Nordlingen
himself remarked,—what was a more fitting time for
enjoyment than just after they had been admitted to their
Lord’s presence, and had had their sins forgiven them. It
was surely much more congruous than the English way of
“making a Saturday night of it,” with all their sins yet upon
their shoulders.
If, however, there was dancing, there was no visible
drunkenness; the Pfarrherr was a man of sufficient influence
to make a stand against the national vice, and if any of the
guests did feel a little the worse for liquor, he quietly took
himself, or was taken by his friends, beyond the glare of the
great bonfire, where no one could see him,—for Nordlingen
was wise enough not to look too closely into what was not
intended for his inspection.
It was this idea, or perhaps the recollection that the
Haabet was to sail the next day, that induced him to close
his eyes to the fact that that innocent little Lilla had danced
with no one but the Captain the whole evening, on the plea
that no girl of the party, except herself, was able to talk to
him in English. Whatever it was that they had to say to
one another, there was a good deal of it, and it took a good
while saying, and as Birger, who was outrageously jealous
remarked spitefully,—“they, as well as the drunkards, preferred
evidently the light of the moon to that of the great
wedding bonfire,” and thinking, probably, how he would
make up for lost time after the Haabet had tripped her
anchor, whistled pensively the Swedish song—
“Hence on the shallows our little boat leaving,
On to the Haaf where the green waves are heaving,
Causing to Thyrsis so much dismay.”
CHAPTER XXIX. HOMEWARD BOUND.
And, now, my good friends, I’ve a fine opportunity
To obfuscate you all by sea terms with impunity.
And talking of “caulking,”
And “quarter-deck walking,”
“Fore and aft,”
And “abaft,”
“Hookers,” “barkeys,” and “craft,”
(At which Mr. Poole has so wickedly laught);
Of “binnacles,” “bilboes,” the boom called the “spanker,”
The best “bower cable,” the “jib,” and “sheet anchor;”
Of “lower-deck guns,” and of “broadsides and chases;”
Of “taff-rails” and “top-sails,” and “splicing main braces,”
And “shiver my timbers,” and other odd phrases
Employed by old pilots with hard-featured faces;
Of the expletives sea-faring gentlemen use,—
The allusions they make to the eyes of their crews.
Ingoldsby.
The Haabet did not sail that night, which indeed was hardly
possible, her Captain being employed in dancing, and making
love, and singing, in the words of Karl Bellman,—
“Awake, Amaryllis! my dearest, awaken,—
Let me not go to sea by my true love forsaken,—
Our course among dolphins and mermaids is taken:
Onwards shall paddle our boat to the sea.”
Neither did the Haabet sail on the morrow, for the wind
had chopped round to the south-west; neither did she sail
the next day, for there was a dead calm;—there was plenty
of time for leave-taking, and a leisurely journey to Christiansand
besides, which was accomplished in the carioles—their
last journey, as Tom feelingly remarked. The Captain
arrived at Ullitz’s, a good hour behind the rest, who would
not wait for the end of his last conference with Lilla Nordlingen.—They
were, besides, a little anxious about the
weather, for the season was somewhat advanced, and everything
was so deadly calm, that it was quite evident a change
of some sort was at hand.
What that change was, the next morning made manifest
enough, for the wind was roaring round the house, and the
rain pattering furiously against the windows long before the
sun was up.
However, the old copper lion that surmounted the church
had veered round again, and was turning his battle-axe
towards England, and Jan Torgensen—Captain Torgensen
we should call him now in virtue of his new command, and
in truth he was not a little proud of the title himself,—came
in just as a very sulky breakfast was completed, and announced,
“that as the wind was fair, he did not care the scale
of a herring how much there was of it, and that this night
should be spent at sea.”
No one was sorry for this announcement, not even
Birger, who was going back to Nordlingen’s, as he said, “in
order to console Ariadne for the desertion of her faithless
Theseus.” The pleasures of the summer had departed, and it
was useless to linger over the scenes of past enjoyments. At
Nordlingen’s perhaps the time might have passed pleasantly
enough, notwithstanding the change of weather, but Christiansand
has but few resources for a rainy day; and besides
this, the very idea of a prolonged parting is depressing.
Torkel was gone, and Tom was much too low for a story
or a joke. There were, however, some marine difficulties—there
always are; papers are never ready, and agents are
always behind time, and thus, though every one was anxious
to be off, and none less than Torgensen himself, who grudged
every blast of the fair wind, it was full five o’clock before the
anchor broke ground; and a cake, the last token of Marie’s
affection, having been previously placed on the taffrail for
Nyssen, the Haabet turned her stern to the blast, and set
her fore-sail, and hoisted a couple of double reefed top-sails to
receive it. The rain redoubled—certainly if Gammle Norgé
had received them with smiles, she honoured their departure
with tears.
The first thing that met the Captain’s eye, as he turned
from waving the last farewell to Birger’s receding boat, was
the pilot, roaring drunk already, and the mate supplying him
with no end of additional brandy. He went forward to draw
Torgensen’s attention to this apparently dangerous breach of
naval discipline.
“Be quiet,” said Torgensen, in broken English, “the mate
knows very well what he is about, I supplied him with the
brandy myself. That drunken rascal is sure to get us into a
scrape, if he has sense enough left in his drunken body to
fancy he can take charge of the ship; and I am obliged, by
law, to take him drunk or sober. As soon as he gets too
drunk to interfere, which I am happy to say will be the
case very shortly, I shall pilot my own ship, and I should
think I ought to know how to take her out of Christiansand
by this time—we all do that; in fact, these drunken pilots are
nothing but an incumbrance.” And an incumbrance in this
instance he proved, for, Torgensen having safely carried his
brig to the mouth of the fjord, they were obliged to heave
to for the pilot’s boat, which kept them waiting for a good
hour more. The Parson suggested taking him to sea; but
Torgensen swore he had had too much of him already.
It was long after dark, therefore, when they passed the
lighthouse, which they did in a furious squall of wind and
rain, and stood out to sea under close reefed top-sails and
reefed fore-sail, with two men at the helm, the brig steering
as wild as if the Nyssen were blowing on both quarters at
once, but dashing away through it for all that, and heaping
up the sea under her bluff bows.
The whole surface was one vast blaze of phosphoric light—the
ship’s ragged wake was a track of wavering flame, the
water that broke from her bows was a cataract of fire, a rope
that was towing under her counter (Torgensen was not at
all particular about these little matters), was ten times more
visible than it would have been by broad daylight, for every
strand in it was clearly defined by lines of delicate blue flame,
while each breaking wave was a flash of brightness. The
wind was as fair as it could be, and as they drew out from
under the lee of the land, seemed enough to tear the sails
from their bolt ropes.
“Hurrah for Nyssen!” shouted Torgensen; but he shouted
a little too soon, for not an hour afterwards they were close
hauled with a south-west wind, dead foul, dancing like a
cork in a mill pond, on the top of a tumbling cross sea, and
plodding along at barely three knots; not even looking up
within four points of their course.
And the next day, and the next night, and the next, the
same monotonous story; only as the wind settled to the
south-west, the bubble went down, and it was not so difficult
to walk the three steps and a half, which formed the Haabet’s
quarter-deck.
Still the only answer to the anxiously repeated morning
question of “How is her head,” was, when most favourable,
“half a point southward of west,—think we shall weather the
Naze, please God.”
Torgensen was always in high spirits, and was as proud of
his new command, the Captain said, as a peacock with two
tails; and she really had qualities of which a commander
might well be proud, as a sea-boat,—but these did not comprehend
either beauty, or comfort, or speed.
There is no between decks in a Norwegian timber brig,
the whole space being occupied with its bulky cargo, much
of which lumbers up the waist, and forecastle besides; the
crew inhabited a small hurricane-house just abaft the mainmast;
a very small slip of this was bulk-headed off for the
mate,—while the remainder—and a very small remainder it
was—served the crew for parlour, and kitchen and all, for
there was no other cookery place in the ship; in one sense
this was an advantage, for they could cook in the worst of
weathers, and this is not always practicable in a merchant
ship; but if they did get this advantage over the wind and
rain, it was, as the Captain remarked, a very dirty advantage
indeed. All that there was of cover below the deck, was a
very small sail-room aft, also used as a bread-room; before
this was the Captain’s cabin, measuring exactly eight feet by
six, which served for Torgensen and his two passengers, and
for a purser’s store-room into the bargain, with all its indescribable
stinks. After a very little practice, the Captain
declared he could always tell the tack they were on, by the
particular description of stink that was uppermost, and
used to say that they had got their starboard or port stinks
on board, as the case might be.
The bread alone of the ship’s provisions was under cover;
the beef and pork was stored in harness casks, lashed to the
bulwarks, thus diminishing still more the very diminutive
quarter-deck. In fact, a quarter-deck walk was what none
of them ever thought of.
Hurrah!—the Naze bearing N.N.E., and all dangers of a
lee-shore past: a lee-shore in timber ships is no joke; they
never sink—they cannot, for the Norwegian deals and
baulks being of less specific gravity than water, the ship
that carries them would be buoyed up even if water-logged,
but their very want of specific gravity is the cause of their
danger on a lee-shore; besides being full below, the whole
deck is lumbered up for six feet or more, and the centre of
gravity is so high that they are all crank to the most ticklish
degree; and, though invariably carrying very low sail, require
every attention to keep them on their legs; for this
reason, if caught on a lee-shore in anything like a breeze,
they can never claw off, for they can carry nothing without
tumbling over on their beam ends. For this reason, every
Norwegian is very careful of an offing, it is the only thing he
seems to care much about. When the wind changed, every
ship that the fair breeze had tempted out of Christiansand
that day had put back, and Torgensen only had held on,
partly because he knew the comparatively weatherly
qualities of his brig, but principally because he was young
and foolish.
Toward evening the wind drew round to the northward,
and the brig was able, first to lie her course, then to shake
out the reefs from her topsails, and lastly, having brailed up
her fore and aft mainsail, to display a very ragged suit of
studding-sails, which together got a fathom or two over six
knots out of her—the very top of her speed,—and the Naze
slowly sank below the horizon, fading into blue as it
sank.
But this good luck was not to hold; fine weather returned,
but with it calm and light baffling breezes, with the
ship’s head looking every way except that which she was
wanted to go. Singular as anything of cleanliness seems
among people who personally rejoice in dirt, there was more
fuss in cleaning decks than is to be seen in many a man-of-war;
the very cabin-deck was holy-stoned every morning, as
well as the quarter-deck; though so far as the latter was
concerned, this was rendered absolutely useless by the
abominable habit of spitting, for which the Norwegians
deserve as much notice as the Americans themselves, and
which they do not yet only “quia carent vate sacro,” because
they have not a Mrs. Trollope to write about them. In the
present instance this was the more inexcusable, because the
northern style of ship-building pinches in their ships so
much aft, that a man with strong lungs might set on
the weather bulwark, and with ease spit over the lee-quarter.
As for seamanship, there are no smarter seamen in the
world than the Norwegians when there is need, or more
slovenly when there is not; but how they contrive to navigate
their ships is a mystery which none but a Norwegian
can solve. The whole of it is done by dead reckoning, with,
in the North Sea at least, a pretty liberal use of the lead:
besides the deep-sea lead, their only nautical instruments
are the log, and what they call the “pein-compassen.” This
last is a compass-card made of wood, and marked with
thirty-two lines corresponding to the points, and drawn
from the centre to the circumference, on which centre
revolves freely a brass needle of equal length with the
lines.
On starting, the true bearing of the destined port, or of
some remarkable point or headland which must be sighted
during their voyage, is taken, and the “pein-compassen” is
fixed to the binnacle, with that part set towards the head of
the vessel. This, for that particular voyage, is called “the
steering line;” and so long as the true compass tallies with its
wooden brother—that is to say, so long as the ship looks up
for her port,—the whole run is given her at the end of each
watch; but, in traverse sailing, the two compasses must of
course point different ways. In this case, at the end of the
watch if the wind has been steady, or whenever the ship,
from tacking, or any other cause, alters her course or her rate
of sailing, the brass needle on the “pein-compassen” is turned
to that point of the compass to which the ship’s head has
actually been lying, and a line is drawn from that point with
chalk, intersecting the “steering line” at right angles. The
part cut off between the centre of the compass and the
point of intersection gives the actual gain in distance to the
port towards which she is bound, and answers to the cosine of
our more scientific nomenclature. This, with some corrections
for lee-way, is given to her, while the chalk line drawn from
the point of the moveable needle to the point of intersection,
which answers to our sine, gives the number of miles
which the adverse wind has compelled her to diverge from
her course, and which must be compensated for by a corresponding
deviation on the other tack.
Thus it is that, day after day, the ship’s reckoning is kept,
not by calculation, but by actual measurement, performed by
a pair of compasses on a graduated scale; and, clumsy as
this contrivance may seem, they do navigate their ships with
an accuracy that might put some of our merchant skippers
to shame,—to say nothing of the masters in Her Majesty’s
Navy.[64]
So far as the North Sea goes, which is the principal scene
of Norwegian navigation, this mode of reckoning is considerably
assisted by the lead,—indeed, it would be hardly too
much to say that these timber ships are navigated by the
lead alone. The soundings of the whole North Sea are accurately
marked, and it so happens that there is considerable
variety in the sand which the arming brings up; besides
which there are a good many “pits,” as they are called—that
is to say, small spaces, some of them not a mile across, in
which, for some unexplained reason, the depth is suddenly
increased. Should the ship be so fortunate as to strike one
of these, they are so accurately noted in the charts, that it is
as good as a fresh departure.
It was about a week or ten days after the Naze—the last
point of Norway—had faded from their sight, like a dim blue
cloud, that the Parson was sitting or lying at the foot of the
foremast in a soft niche, which he had arranged for himself
among the deck timber, and had called his study. He was
reading, for the books which they had brought with them,
and which, hitherto, they had had neither time nor inclination
to look into, were now very acceptable indeed. The Captain,
sitting on the bulwark abreast of him, and steadying himself
by the after-swifter, was watching the proceedings of some
visitors who had come on board the preceding evening—a
kestrel and half-a-dozen swallows. The swallows were so
tired when they came on board, that they readily perched on
the fingers that were held out to them, and one of them had
passed the night on the battens in the mate’s cabin. The
hawk did not seem a bit the worse for his journey; he was
seated very composedly on the quarter of the top-gallant
yard close to the mast, where he was pleasantly occupied in
preparing his breakfast off one of the swallows, who had
risen earlier than his companions, and who did not exactly
realise the proverb about the “early bird finding the worm,”—on
the contrary, he had been found himself, and was thus
ministering to the wants of the hungry, while his brethren,
having now recovered their strength by their night’s rest,
were flitting unconcernedly about the masts and yards, just
as on shore they had flitted round the church steeple, and
were wondering, no doubt, what had become of all the flies.
“As this is only the middle of September,” said the Parson,
looking up at the birds, “it is evident that the migration of
swallows must begin in the North first, and that previous to
their leaving our shores, the English swallows must receive
a large addition to their numbers; a fact which, so far as I
know, naturalists have not noticed.”
“Or else,” said the Captain, “that they shift their quarters,
like a regiment that has got its route, and march by detachments—one
relieving the other. Ah!”—with a long sigh—“I
wish I had wings like a swallow!”
“Pooh! nonsense!” said the Parson; “we shall get on
shore some time or other; everyone does, except the ‘ancient
mariner.’ ‘Good times, bad times, all times pass over.’”
“So they do; but all this is so much waste of life. Here
am I, sitting dangling my legs over the sides of this cursed
brig, knowing all the time that my friends are knocking the
partridges about. Who can give me back my 1st of September?
Besides,” he added, in a grumbling tone, “I want
a clean dinner, if it is only by way of a novelty; I can rough
it as well as anyone for the time, as you know, but a course
of such living as this will poison a man.”
The Parson laughed.
“It does, I assure you! I have often seen it in the West
Indies; when a nigger takes to eating dirt, he always dies,
and I should think a little of that would go a great way with
a white man.”
“Well, you know it is said that ‘every man must eat his
peck of dirt in the course of his life.’”
“That’s exactly the thing; we are allowed a peck of dirt,
as you say, to last our lives, but you see if we stay here much
longer, we shall soon get to the end of our allowance. What
do you think I saw yesterday? When I went below, I could
smell the cook had been there; you say yourself that you are
always obliged to open the skylight whenever he comes near
the cabin. You know what a beastly miserable day it was,
and as I had nothing to do, I thought I would turn in and
try to sleep away a little time, and get a little warm. I felt
the pillow rather too high, and, putting my hand under it, I
found the dish of plok fiske we were to have for dinner
stowed away there to keep it warm! Bother that skipper,
he is going about again,” as the Norwegian equivalent for
“raise tacks and sheets” came grumbling on his ear, and the
men lounged lazily to their stations; “he’s as frightened at
the shore as if it was Scylla and Charybdis, and the Mäelström
into the bargain. If he would only hold on three or
four hours more, we might sight Flamborough Head, and
get on board an English collier and enjoy a little cleanliness.”
“Ah! you will not enjoy that luxury for this voyage,”
said the Parson; “the English ships always keep inside the
line of sandbanks on the Norfolk coast; almost all we have
met outside, as you may have remarked, are foreigners.”
“Outside barbarians!” said the Captain, who was not in
a good humour.
By this time the clue-garnets had been leisurely manned,
one at a time, and the mainsail was hanging in festoons from
its yard; Torgensen himself steering, as, indeed, he had done
for the last hour, and also giving the word of command.
The wind was as light as could be, so that it really did not
signify, except for fidgettiness, on which tack she was.
The helm had been a-lee for about a minute, and the men
were at their stations for “mainsail haul,” while the brig
went creeping and creeping into the wind. The men
began sniggering and joking to one another, but their
jokes being Norwegian, were for the most part lost on the
passengers.
“What is that young fool about?” said the Parson, who
had not risen from his recumbent posture; “he will have the
brig in irons before he can look round. Jump up and see
what is the matter.”
The Captain scrambled on to the forebitts, so as to look
over the hurricane-house, and burst out laughing. “Bother
the fellow! if he is not reading ‘Peter Simple,’[65] and jamming
his helm hard a-lee with his hinder end. Why, Torgensen!
Torgensen! what the Devil are you about? the brig has been
in the wind this half-hour!”
Torgensen started up, flinging his book on the deck,
righted his helm, and bellowed out his next command. It
was loud enough to startle the mermaids in their coral caves;
but noise will not compensate for slackness; the brig was
already nearly head to wind, and there she hung—she would
not go an inch farther for any one, and at last fell off again.
Torgensen was obliged to wear her, after all.
He swore, however, he did it on purpose, in order to get
a cast of the lead, as he had not got one for the whole watch.
This did not seem to the Parson so very indispensable,
seeing that in the whole of that forenoon watch they had
not shifted their position four miles; nevertheless, to suit
the action to the word, Torgensen did lay his main top-sail
aback, and armed his lead with as much gravity as if he
really expected that the sand and shells brought up by this
cast would be different from the sand and shells brought up
by the last.
“I tell you what, though, ‘it is an ill wind that blows
nobody good,’—we may get a cod while Torgensen is sending
his note to the mermaids; jump below and get up the lines.
The rind of that ham we had for breakfast will be a dainty
such as Tom Cod is not likely to meet with often in the
haaf, and it will be a pleasing variety to that eternal plok
fiske, if we can get one. By the way, that salt fish has got
desperately hard; I saw the carpenter pounding our dinner
with the back of his axe yesterday, before the cook could do
anything with it.”
Whether Tom Cod would have been duly sensible of the
honour that was done him, and would have accepted the
line of invitation which the Captain had sent him for the
next day’s dinner, it is impossible to say, for, unfortunately,
he never received it. The whole bank abounded with hungry
dog fish, and the bait never got a dozen fathoms over the
side before it was seized by them. However, it was all fish
that came to net; dog fish are not esteemed on shore, but
place the diner on board ship, give him three weeks of
calms and foul winds, short provisions, and those provisions
principally dried fish, with a piece of salt horse for a luxury
on Sunday, and even dog fish will come to be appreciated at
their just value.
It was about the middle of the dog watch in the same day—when,
according to the theory of the Norwegian marine,
everybody is supposed to be on deck for his own pleasure,
and, according to matter of fact, everybody is below, sleeping,
or talking, or cooking, or mending his clothes,—when the
Parson, whose time began to hang a little weary on his
hands, was yawning about the Haabet’s quarter-deck, with his
hands in his pockets.
The Norwegian dog watch must not be confounded with
the English watches of the same name. In the Swedish or
Norwegian navy, the twenty-four hours are divided into five
watches instead of seven, as with us. These, beginning at
8 p.m., are called the first watch, the night watch, the
morning watch, the forenoon watch, and the dog watch, respectively,
of which the first four consist of four hours each,
and the last of eight. The dog watch comprehends the time
from noon to 8 p.m. It is, of course, impossible for human
strength and human endurance to keep it properly, but it is
permitted to be kept in a slack sort of way by the whole
ship’s company conjointly, one watch being indeed responsible
for the duty, but not being forbidden to go below, provided
their place, for the time, be taken by amateurs.[66] The natural
effect of this is, that the whole watch is kept very slackly
indeed, even in men-of-war; in fact, at the particular time
specified, there was no one whatever on the deck of the
Haabet, except Torgensen, who, as before, was steering, and
the Parson, who had come on deck because the Captain was
snoring so loud, and who, as luck would have it, was looking
over the bulwarks to windward.
The day had continued calm and hot, as September days
often are, and the ship was not many miles from the place
in which she had missed stays in the morning. She was
close hauled, but carrying everything that would draw.
“Torgensen,” said he, “I think you had better look out;
there is something coming down upon us, that looks very
like an invitation from your friends the mermaids.[67] I should
like to send an excuse.”
“O, The Thousand!” said Torgensen: “God forgive me for
swearing, at such a time;” and shoving the helm into the
Parson’s hands, he seized a handspike, and began to belabour
the deck.
On all ordinary occasions there had been a good deal of
republican slackness on board the Haabet, the men doing
what they were told, but doing it leisurely, and in a nonchalant
sort of way. It did not much signify, for in blue water
and calm weather, it makes little difference whether the
manœuvres are performed smartly or not.[68] But assuming
the handspike was like taking up the dictatorship; there
was no want of smartness now; the men buzzed out from
their hurricane-house, like bees out of a hive, some half
dressed, some stuffing a handful of plok fiske into their
mouths, but all rushing to their stations, as if the very
tautest-handed boatswain in the British service was at their
heels.
It so happened that Torgensen had been fitting up a fore-sail
of his own, which he called a fok; a stoutish spar held
the place of foot rope, which, though it diminished the area
of the sail, certainly had the effect of making it stand better
when close hauled; but that which he prided himself most
upon, was his substitute for clue-garnets, which consisted of
two ropes, which, rove through blocks at the quarter of the
yard, led before the sail through a block at the clue, then to
the yard-arm, and then along the yard; thus, embracing the
sail, acting as spilling-lines and clue-garnets at once, and
hauling it up, as it were, like a curtain in a theatre.
The square main-sail was by this time clewed up, and, had
not Torgensen’s head been full of this invention, he probably
would have seen the necessity of casting off the sheet of the
fore and aft main-sail, as he passed, supposing he had not
time or hands to man the brails; as it was, the fore-sail came in
most sweetly, and Torgensen, forgetting his captainship,
skipped up the rigging, and was out at the weather earring,
like a monkey up a cocoa-nut tree.
Just then the squall struck her. Naturally the brig
carried a lee helm, but at this moment, relieved of her fore-sail,
and at the same time pressed upon by the whole force of
the squall in her main-sail, she griped obstinately,—a propensity
which the Parson had originated by steering as near as
he could, in order to shake the wind out of the top-sails while
the men were reefing. Things began to look serious; not a soul
was on deck, every man being out on the yards, which, so soon
as the sails began thrashing in the wind, jumped and jerked so
furiously, that it was as much as any of them could do to hold
on; the brig lay over, so that the water not only bubbled
through her scuppers, but came pouring in over her bulwarks,
and the Parson, with both hands clutching the bulwarks,
was driving the helm a-weather with his stomach, while his
feet were slipping one after the other on the wet and slanting
deck.
Just at that moment the Captain—his coat and shoes off,
his head tied up in a pocket handkerchief, and his eyes scarce
opened, just as he had roused up from his slumbers,—showed
an astonished face above the hatchway.
“Hallo! what’s the matter now? who spilt the milk?”
“Jump! and let go that main-sheet! cut it if you can’t get
at it any other way! but take the sail off her at any rate,
or in two minutes we shall be at Fiddler’s Green.”
The Captain was wide enough awake to see that things
were rather too serious for a joke, and scrambled up to
windward as well as he could. Round rattled the sheaves, as if
they would set fire to their blocks; away flew the sheet through
them, the slack of it whipping the deck right and left, and
barely missing the Captain, while the end of the main boom
plunged into the water, wetting the sail half way up. The
brig, eased of the strain, slowly and reluctantly paid off,
while Torgensen, still seated at the weather yard-arm, with
his legs twisted round it, holding on by the earring with
both hands, with his breast straining against the lift to
which he seemed to be holding on with his chin, and his
hat, the while, which had been secured round his neck by a
lanyard, fluttering and dancing to leeward, just nodded
down on deck, as if to say, “all right my boys, I knew you
would do the needful,” and then went on with his work as if
nothing particular had happened.
The squall, however, was only the prelude to a change
of wind; in less than an hour’s time she was able, not only to
shake out her reefs again, but to lie her course, and to jog
along it merrily.
Towards the close of the next day they were looking out
sharp for the Outer Garboard Buoy, which, out of sight of
land, marks the mouth of the Thames, and, strange to say,
after a cruise of three weeks’ traverse sailing, hit it to a
nicety,[69] and on the following morning, when the fishermen
came on deck, they had the satisfaction of seeing, for the
first time since the Naze had sunk in the horizon, not only
land, but land on both sides of them, of which that on their
starboard beam bore a very strong resemblance to the old
South Foreland.
“England again!” said the Captain. “Hurrah for England
and partridges!—what the deuce are you squinting at on the
French coast, Parson?”
“A very interesting sight for us,” said the Parson,
putting the telescope into his hands, “though not on the
French coast; look at that sail, and tell me what you make
of her.”
The Captain took a long view. “A lugger I think, coming
down before the wind, wing-and-wing.”
“The very thing, and of course bound for England: if
all goes right, we shall nearly cross her, and that in less than
an hour.”
“Then hurrah for a leg of mutton!”—for it should be said
the Haabet was bound for Bordeaux, to exchange her timber
for the light St. Julien’s claret, of which so much is drunk in
the north, and the fishermen had taken their passage in her
on the chance, which amounted to almost a certainty, of
meeting with an English coaster that would put them on
shore somewhere. This they had not been able to meet
with on the east coast, for foreigners are too much afraid
of the shoals to allow themselves to go near a track
which, by English vessels, is as well beaten as a turnpike
road.
“A leg of mutton!” said the Parson; “you are as bad
as a Swede,—always thinking of your dinner.”
“Upon my word, I have eaten such a lot of trash in
that country that it is very excusable to long for the sweet
simplicity of English roast and boiled; we have not had one
single wholesome, unsophisticated meal since we got there;
it was all grease, and sugar, and gravy, and preserves, except,
indeed, where we boiled our own salmon on the Torjedahl,
or toasted our own ‘mutton,’ as Moodie calls it, at the
skal.”
“Ah, poor Moodie! I wonder whether he has found out
yet that mutton is not made out of elk’s meat? But that
lugger is nearing us fast; I think we had better talk to Torgensen
about it, and get our traps on deck.”
Torgensen was sorry to part with his passengers, and they,
though to a certain extent reciprocating his grief, were much
more sorry to part from Torgensen than from the Haabet. But,
sorry or glad, it was all the same, the brig and the lugger, on
their respective courses, rapidly approached each other; a
weft hoisted by the former was answered by the latter, and,
in a few minutes, her mast-heads were seen bobbing about
over the brig’s lee quarter.
Less than half a minute sufficed to transfer the fishermen
and their belongings from one deck to the other, and then,
hands shaking,—caps waving,—hoist away the lugs,—and up-helm
for merry England.
Away flew the lugger, “her white wings flying,”—it could
not be added “never from her foes,” for she turned out afterwards
to be a noted smuggler that no revenue cutter could
ever catch. Up rose the white cliffs,—plainer and plainer
grew the objects on shore: now the white houses of Dover
came in view,—then the sheep on the downs, and the men
on the piers,—then the rising sunbeams flashed back a merry
welcome from the windows,—then the pier-heads opened,
with the tide bubbling up against them like a river in flood,
which, taking the lugger under the counter, gave her a final
slew, as she rushed between them,—then through the inner
harbour, and down sails, carrying on with the way already
acquired,—then run up alongside the Custom-house quay.
“Home at last!” said the Captain, as he leaped on shore.
Hic longæ finis chartæque viæque.
THE END.
PRINTED BY COX (BROS.) AND WYMAN, GREAT QUEEN STREET.
FOOTNOTES
[1] The families of Lejonhöved and Svinhöved were conspicuous in
the wars of Gustavus Vasa, at which time Sweden threw off the yoke
which Denmark, with the concurrence of Norway, had fixed on them,
by taking undue advantage of the conditions stipulated in the Union
of Calmar. The head of the former family perished in the treacherous
massacre at Stockholm, generally spoken of by the name of the “Bloodbath.”
Both families derive their names from their armorial bearings,
as at that time there were no surnames in Sweden. These signify
Lion-head and Boar-head, or Pig-head, respectively. Hence the Parson’s
sarcasm.
[3] Tjäder—the capercailzie. Taking him in his lek—that is to say,
during his play, a very singular method which both the tjäder and the
black-cock has of calling together the females of their respective species,
is strictly contrary to law.
[4] Fjeld Ripa—The mountain grouse; a bird something like our
ptarmigan, the pursuit of which is always attended with toil, and sometimes
danger.
[5] According to ancient Scandinavian mythology, the earth, which is
flat and surrounded by water, is continually guarded by Jörmungard
the Sea Serpent, the daughter of Loki; who is so large that she encircles
the whole earth, holding her tail in her mouth. She is sometimes
called the Midgard Serpent;—Midgard meaning middle guard half way
between the earth and the realms of the Hrimthursar, or Frost Giants,
which is her post.
[6] The god Kvasir, or Unerring Wisdom, was the joint offspring of
all the gods, and was created to aid their negociations with the Vanir.
His blood, sweetened by mead, forms the drink of Poetic Inspiration,
which was guarded by Gunlauth, the daughter of Thjassi, the chief of
the Frost Giants. Odin, who was her lover, prevailed on her to give
it up to him, and it is at present lodged in the heights of Asgard. That
Poetic Inspiration should be wisdom, sweetened by honey and guarded
by love, is in itself a beautiful allegory—and not less beautiful that it
should be won by the gods and lodged in Heaven;—but the generation
of Kvasir involves a most curious anomaly, and that is, that the gods
should be able to create a being more intelligent than themselves,—unless,
indeed, we interpret the allegory as implying that mutual
council is more unerring than the unaided intelligence of any individual.
[7] The Indelta has very erroneously been stated, by one or two travellers
in Sweden, to be the militia of the country. Sweden has a
militia, and a very efficient force it is; but the Indelta is a feudal army
raised and maintained by the holders of crown lands. The constitution
of this force will be explained more fully hereafter; it is exclusively a
Swedish institution, and does not exist in Norway.
[9] “Quick, here, with the boat! and so you shall have some money
for drink.”
[10] One of the wild ideas of Scandinavian mythology is, that the sun
is the eye of Odin, and that he once had two like other people; but,
that coming one day to the well of Mimiver, the waters of which are
pure wisdom, he bargained for a draught, and bought the horn gjoll
full at the price of one of his eyes; no such great quantity either, if
gjoll be the original of our English gill. However, this fully accounts
for the fact that the moon is not now so bright as the sun, which it
probably once was. It must be confessed that the whole of this story
is entirely inconsistent with the theory of the sun and moon in the
prose “Edda,” where these are represented as separate and independent
divinities, the son and daughter of the giant Mundilfari,—the sun
being feminine and the moon masculine; a tradition contrary to the
notions of our poets, but fully borne out by our English peasants, who
invariably speak of the moon as “he,” and the sun as “she.”
[11] Full-grown salmon have two or three ranges of very small teeth,
whereas grauls (Scoticè, grilse) have only one. It is this distinction
which, on the Erne, is technically termed “the mask,” and not the
size, which determines the difference between a graul and a salmon.
[12] An ort, or mark, is the fifth part of a specie-daler, equivalent to
ninepence or tenpence of our money. A skilling is about the same as
an English halfpenny; the word, however, is pronounced exactly the
same as our English word shilling, the k being soft before i; a circumstance
which rather perplexes the stranger in his calculations.
[13] Since the abolition of capital punishment in Norway—a measure
that does not seem to answer at all—murderers are confined, like other
criminals, in the castle at Christiania. They may be seen in dresses of
which each sleeve and leg has its own colour, sweeping the streets and
doing other public work; and a very disgusting sight it is. The average
of crime is very high in Norway—perhaps higher than in any country
known, and particularly crimes of violence. This may be accounted
for, partly by their wonderful drunkenness, and partly by the very
inefficient state of the Church, and the almost total absence of the religious
element in an education which is artificially forced by state enactments.
In Norway there is a very great disproportion between intellect
and religion.
[14] Manchester has its faults, and a good many of them, but among
them all its Anglo-Saxon virtue of order and capacity for self-government
come out in strong relief.
“Where are your policemen?” asked the Duke, as he glanced at the
masses that thronged the streets during the Queen’s visit,—perhaps the
largest crowd that had ever been collected in England. The streets of
the Borough of Manchester were not staked and corded off, and guarded
by men in blue; but thousands of strong, active warehousemen and
mechanics formed, by joining hands, a novel barricade. And in the
evening, when numbers beyond computation were assembled in the
streets to witness the illumination, amidst all the confusion there was
nothing but good-humour.—Fraser.
[15] Alluding to a custom in Norway, of mixing the inner rind of the
birch tree with their rye meal, during times of scarcity.
[16] The fisherman is very much recommended to tie his own flies for
the Tay, or to get them at Edmondson’s. The author bought a good
many pretty-looking specimens in the country, by way of patterns, all
of which whipped to pieces in half-an-hour’s fishing. The fact is, there
is a cheap way of tying flies, which it is impossible to detect by the eye;
and it is just as well that the young fisherman should ask the character
of his tackle-maker before investing his money in such very ticklish
wares; the worthlessness of which he will not find out till he reaches
his fishing-ground. The author, a fisherman of some experience, has
tied a good many flies in his time, and has had a good many tied for
him by his attendants and other professionals on the river’s banks; but
the only tradespeople he has ever found trustworthy, in all points, in
such matters are, Chevalier, of Bell-yard, London, and Edmondson, of
Church-street, Liverpool. Their flies have never failed him, whether
in their hooks, their gut, or their tying. All that the fisherman will
want in their shops will be a little science, to enable him to choose his
colours, and a little money to enable him to pay his bills.
[17] The real scene of this piscatorial exploit is on the Mandahl river.
There is a Hell Fall on the Torjedahl also; indeed, the name is common in
Norway, and in Sweden too, so as to become almost generic for a dark,
gloomy rush of waters; but the Hell Fall of the Torjedahl is inaccessible
to salmon, which, notwithstanding all that Inglis says to the contrary,
are unable to surmount the great falls of Wigeland about a mile below
it. It is, therefore, worthless as a fishing-place; and, the author
suspects, altogether too dangerous to be attempted without good reason.
When the water is low, the fall of the Mandahl may be fished in the
ordinary manner from a boat, and it is well worth the trial; but if the
river be full, the birch rope will be found necessary.
[18] The lower part of the Torjedahl is perfectly free from musquitoes,
which cannot be said of all the rivers in Norway; this probably is
owing to its rapidity, and to the absence of all tributaries and still
water.
[19] It is no inaccuracy to give Birger a Scotch song, for there is a
considerable infusion of Scotch blood among the Swedes, and Scotch
family names are by no means uncommon among the nobility. In fact,
Scotch names are to be met with even in their national ballads: for
instance—
And gives thee Esberne Snorre’s eyes and heart to play with.
[22] Esberne Snorre is the Danish Faust. In no country whatever
was the reformation popular among the peasantry, and therefore the
popular legends invariably assign the leaders and causes of it to the
devil, as in the case of Faust himself, who, whatever Goëthe may say,
really was a very respectable tradesman, and had no more to do with
the devil than is involved in the invention of that art which became so
powerful an instrument in the hands of reformers—printing. Esberne
Snorre was what very few of the Danish Reformers were, a really good
and conscientious man, who might well have built the Church of
Kallendborg, or even have given his eyes for it. Nevertheless, pre-eminently
before all the reformers, the devil carries him off bodily in
every legend of the time, just as he did Faust.
[23] Equivalent to “spoiling a market” in Ireland, or “opening a
Sheriff’s ball” in England,—“Goth’s garden” being the cant name for
a place of execution in Stockholm, which is adorned with permanent
gibbets, and is so called from the name of the first man who was hanged
there. The saying is Swedish, not Norwegian, not only because it is
local, but because there are no capital punishments at all in Norway.
[24] Christina, daughter of the great Gustavus Adolphus, a popular
and able sovereign, abdicated voluntarily,—wearied of the toils of
government,—and is said to have uttered some such speech as that
attributed to her by Torkel on crossing the little stream which in those
days separated her late dominions from those of Denmark.
[25] Between “the two lights,”—that is to say, twilight,—is always the
time in which all spirits of the middle earth have the greatest power;
of course the reason is, that seen indistinctly in the doubtful light of
morning or evening, natural objects take strange forms, and exhibit
appearances which are ascribed to the supernatural.
[27] In the Swedish Church there used to be a regular private confession
made to the priest before every Communion, on which occasion an offertory,
called confession-money, was deposited on the altar. It is, indeed,
the rule of the Church still, though, since a royal ordinance, in 1686,
forbade penitents to select their own confessors, confining them to the
priest of their parish, the custom has fallen into disuse; still the old
expressions are frequently retained.
[28] The mal is said to be a great-headed, wide-mouthed monster, with a
long beard, of the same colour as the eel; and, like the eel, slimy and
without any perceptible scales. It is said to grow to the length of
twelve or fourteen feet, to weigh three or four hundred pounds, and to
carry on his back fin a strong, sharp lance, which it can elevate or depress at
pleasure. It is supposed to lie seeking whom or what it may devour
in the deepest and muddiest holes of rivers or lakes. The author has
heard this fish talked of very often, but has never seen one, and believes
fully that it may safely be classed with the Black Horse, the Mid-Gard
Serpent, and Dr. Clarke’s Furia Infernalis.
[29] The leading fish of each shoal, or school, as it is called,—usually a
salmon of considerable weight and experience—is so termed by the Irish
fishermen.
[30] Frue is properly a title of nobility, and is of Danish origin. No
Norwegian titles date earlier than the Union of Kalmar. These, however,
have been all abolished by a Storthing, which, consisting mostly
of peasants, set itself strongly against aristocratical distinctions; and,
taking advantage of that clause in the constitution which provides, that
if a bill be carried three times it overrides the king’s veto, have succeeded
in abolishing them. Habit and custom, however, are stronger
than parliaments; and the mistress of a wealthy establishment is frequently
designated, not by her husband’s name, but as Lady Marie,
Lady Brigetta, or, as in the present case, Lady Christina—for that is
the meaning of the title Frue.
[31] Not many years ago, the “summer parlour” was the only room in
any house that had windows that would open.
[32] All livings in Norway have a dowager-house and farm belonging
to them, for the widow of the late incumbent. At her death, it passes
back to the present possessor of the living.
Here the Neck strikes his harp in his city of glass,
And the Mermaids comb out their bright hair, green as grass,
And bleach here their glittering clothes.
[35] Those who are drowned at sea, and whose bodies are never recovered,
are said to have been enticed away to the mermaids’ caves beneath the
deep water.
[36] Those who are lost and starved to death in the forest—a thing which
is of perpetual occurrence,—are said to be detained through the love of
the Skogsfrue.
[38] This legend is taken from the Brage Rädur, which, in the original,
is obscure enough. Finn Magnussen, however, seems to have hit upon
the right interpretation of it, which we have followed here. His explanation,
as given in “Blackwell’s Northern Antiquities,” is this:—“Iduna,
the ever-renovating Spring-being, in the possession of Thjasse,
the desolating Winter,—all nature languishes until she is delivered from
her captivity. On this being effected, her presence again diffuses joy
and gladness, and all things revive; while her pursuer, Winter, with
his icy breath, dissolves in the solar rays, indicated by the fires lighted
on the walls of Asgard.”
[39] Niord and his wife, Skadi, had naturally some disputes about
their future residence,—he preferring the brightness of his own palace,
Noatun, she very naturally yearning after Thrymheim, the abode of
her chilly father. The dispute was referred to Forseti, the son of
Baldur, the heavenly attorney-general, who decided that they should
alternately occupy Noatun for three months and Thrymheim for nine,—which
is about the Norwegian proportion of summer and winter.
“Thrymheim, the land
Where Thjasse abode,
That mightiest of giants,—
But snow-skating Skadi
Now dwells there, I trow,
In her father’s old mansion.”
Elder Edda.
[40] A proof of the authenticity of this legend is to be found in the
etymology of the word, “gate,” (gatin—the street), being a Norwegian
word.
[41] Hermod and Baldur were both sons of Odin. That is to say, Courage
and Innocence are both children of Heavenly Wisdom.
[42] The moral of this legend is admirable. The Principle of Evil is of
itself powerless against the Principle of Good, until it is assisted by
well-intentioned, but blind Prejudice; but that same Prejudice, after
its enlightenment, becomes its partner and ally.
[43] An attentive reader, who is also a fisherman, will see, by reverting to
the time which the adventures in the Torjedahl and Soberud-dahl must
have taken, that this voyage must have taken place much later in the
year than the 24th of June, and that consequently he could not have seen
the bale-fires he describes. The fact is, the author made two visits to
Christiansand; he arrived there in June, but, finding the snow-water
still in the river, he made a voyage among the islands, to occupy the
time, and visited the place again at the end of July. To prevent unnecessary
confusion, the incidents of both these visits are told together;
but the fisherman must not conclude from this, that anything is to be
done in any of the Tellemarken rivers before the second week in July.
[44] The whole Norwegian navy consists of one frigate, two corvettes,
two brigs, three schooners, and a hundred and forty of these gun-boats.
The Swedes, who have upon the whole rather a powerful navy, considering
the poverty of their country,—that is to say, thirteen line-of-battle
ships, fourteen frigates, some of them very heavy ones, and
twenty-two steamers—possess also three hundred of these gun-boats.
They carry generally one long tomer forward, and sometimes a carronade,
sometimes a smaller gun aft. They are quite open, except a couple
of bunks for the officers’ sleeping places, pull from twenty to thirty
oars, and are generally sent to sea in squadrons, with a frigate or
corvette to take care of them,—like an old duck with a brood of ducklings.
The frigate forms a rallying point and place of refuge, as well
as a place of rest, for the crews are changed from time to time, and in
their turns enjoy a week’s rest and cover on board of her.
[45] In Sweden there really is an order of the Seraphim, and in Denmark
one of the Elephant,—for the Goose and Gridiron we will not
vouch.
[46] That ancient and distinguished family are said to read Gen. vi. 4
thus: “And there were Grants in the earth in those days.” The word
“giants” being, according to the best authorities in that family, a
modern reading.
[47] Bjornstjerna, a not uncommon name in Sweden, signifies “bear’s
star.”
[48] Bör, civilized man,—from beran, to bear; the same etymology as
that of barn, a child. Ymir, Chaos,—literally, a confused noise; the
meaning is, “before civilization had subdued Chaos.”
[49] It must be remembered that the letter o, in Swedish, is pronounced
like our oo, and that the g before ä e i ö, as well as the final g, is pronounced
like the English y; the word “Modige,” therefore, will be
pronounced very like the English word “Moodie.”
[50]Rubus Chamœmorus; called in the country, Möltebär.
[52] The Puritan Abbott, Archbishop of Canterbury, got into great
trouble from his sporting propensities. One day, as he was shooting
with Lord de le Zouch, at Branshill Park, he shot a keeper. According
to canon law, a clergyman killing a man becomes, from that time forward,
incapable of performing any clerical function; and three Bishops elect
refused consecration at his hand,—“Not,” as they said, “out of enmity
or superstition, but to be wary that they might not be attainted
with the contagion of his scandal and uncanonical condition.” He was
re-instated by a committee of Bishops, appointed for the purpose, but
never entirely recovered his position.
[53] According to Scandinavian mythology, the sacred ash of Yggdrasil,
which typifies the Vital Principle of the world, has seated on its topmost
boughs an eagle, bearing perched between his eyes a falcon,—emblematic
of Energy and Activity.
[54] According to the Prose Edda, the gods had originally no poetry in
their souls. The mead of Poetic Inspiration was in the keeping of the
giant Suttung, who entrusted it to his daughter, Gunlauth. Odin made
love to her,—obtained possession of the mead, and deserted her. He
had, however, the grace to be ashamed of himself, for these are the
words of the Hávamál, in which he evidently alludes to this not very
creditable passage in his life:
“Gunlauth gave me,
On a golden chair seated,
A draught of mead delicious;
But the return was evil
Which she experienced,—
With all her faithfulness—
With all her deep love!
“A holy ring oath
I mind me gave Odin,—
Now, who can trust him?
Suttung is cheated—
His mead is stolen—
Gunlauth is weeping!”
[55] A Norwegian slang expression, for “early rising.”
[56] There is a beautiful superstition—if it is not a real religious truth—in
Norway, that those we have loved best on earth become our unseen
guardians, and follow us always, to warn us of danger.
[58] Stags are not common so far north, but they are to be met with
now and then. Elks are much more often seen, and are now pretty
plentiful. In the days of which the author is writing, the Game Laws
were, on paper at least, very strict about both elks and red-deer. Time
was, when the former of these were classed with the bear and the
lynx, and were absolutely outlawed as noxious beasts. At the time
the author was in Sweden, the laws had gone to the other extreme, and
they were absolutely protected,—everybody being forbidden to shoot
them; a prohibition which, though it prevented men from going after
them openly, was, in fact, as little regarded as most laws are in the
fjeld. Now, they may be shot, only under certain restrictions.
[59] A cant phrase in Sweden, for “going on foot.”
[60] The only time the author ever did get a sight of one was in the
fjeld on the right bank of the Gotha, near Trollhättan, when he was
making his way through some tangled ground in search of a lake, which
lies at no very great distance from the fall. On leaping down from a
low ledge of rock, he very nearly pitched upon the top of a filfras, as
much to his own surprise as that of the beast. He struck at him with
his spiked fishing-rod—the only weapon he had with him. Fortunately
for both parties, as he now thinks, he missed him; so they parted,
much to their mutual satisfaction, and have not met since.
[61] Nalle is the cant name for the bear kind, as with us Reynard is the
cant name for a fox.
[62] “Rig,” the earthly name of Heimdall, the watcher of Heaven’s
gate, when he disguises himself to go skylarking on earth. Hence the
slang expression, “Running a Rig.”
[63] The Sun and Moon are continually pursued by the wolf Fenrir and
her progeny, who sometimes nearly catch her. Hence the eclipses.
[64] The author will not answer for his orthography in the word “pein-compassen.”
He can work a reckoning by it, but has never seen it
spelt.
[65] There is no book so popular in Sweden as what they call “Peter
Simpel aff Kapten Marrjatt.”
[66] In Preadamite times—that is to say, the times of Drake and
Raleigh—this was the custom of the English service also; but it having
been discovered that “what is everybody’s business is nobody’s business,”
and that accidents and negligences were continually happening during
the dog watch, a regular afternoon watch was established, and the
dog watch reduced to four hours, and divided into two; so that the
whole ship’s company could relieve one another systematically, and not,
as before, by private arrangement; and that the whole could have two
uninterrupted hours below, between four and eight in the evening, for
their evening meal, or any other occupation. The whole afternoon
watch was called the dog watch, because in the full light,—and Norwegian
ships did not go to sea in the winter because they were frozen
up,—the work was supposed to be so easy that the dogs were sufficient
to keep it.
[67] Those drowned at sea, whose bodies are never found, are supposed
to have been invited by the mermaids to their caves, and to have been
fascinated by the beauty of their entertainers. Homer’s story of the
Syrens enticing the comrades of Ulysses, has some such foundation.
[68] The words “smart” and “smartly,” which, at sea, have a signification
very different from their shore-going meaning, are pieces of
mis-spelling. They are evidently derived from the Norwegian words
“snart” and “snartlig,” which bear precisely the same nautical meaning
as our English words.
[69] This is a literal fact. Three weeks after sailing from Christiansand,
and seventeen days after losing sight of land of any kind,—during which
time there had been but two days in which the brig could lie her course,—the
author was in the fore-rigging, on the look-out for the Outer
Garboard buoy. He had but small hopes of seeing it, he admits, for
the brig had been navigated by log, lead, and compass alone; nevertheless
it is true, that within half-an-hour of his taking up his look-out
place, and precisely in the direction in which he was looking, there
was the buoy,—a little black speck, like a dancing boat. This, considering
that the steamer in which he had gone out—a vessel commanded by
a lieutenant in her Majesty’s navy—was fifty miles out of her reckoning,
after a straight course of four days, seemed, to say the least, remarkable.