Early Western Travels 1748–1846 A Series of Annotated Reprints of some of the best and rarest contemporary volumes of travel, descriptive of the Aborigines and Social and Economic Conditions in the Middle and Far West, during the Period of Early American Settlement
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CONTENTS OF VOLUME VII
| Preface. The Editor | 9 | |
| Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River: being a Narrative of the Expedition fitted out by John Jacob Astor, to establish the “Pacific Fur Company;” with an account of the Indian Tribes on the Coast of the Pacific. Alexander Ross, one of the Adventurers | ||
| Author’s Preface | 21 | |
| Author’s Table of Contents | 23 | |
| Text | 33 | |
| Appendix | ||
| Chinook Vocabulary | 321 | |
| A Table of the Weather at the Mouth of the Columbia River, from March 22nd till July 22nd, 1811 | 330 | |
ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOLUME VII
PREFACE TO VOLUME VII
The present volume is occupied by the reprint, from the original London edition of 1849, of Alexander Ross’s Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River from 1810–13.
No less than three members of the Astorian expedition[1] published personal narratives, each of them a work of much merit. As a source for the study of this first attempt in behalf of the United States to colonize the North-west Coast, the account of Ross supplements in many particulars that of Gabriel Franchère, the French Canadian clerk whose notable tale of adventure is published in volume vi of our series. Ross’s narrative was not made public until twenty-nine years after the appearance of the first (French) edition of Franchère’s book; but it was based upon journals written at the time, and has the value of a first-hand relation.
Ross was a Scotchman, who left his father’s home (1804) to seek a fortune in the then “dissolute, extravagant, and butterfly” Province of Canada. He confesses that only stern Scotch pride kept him from returning to the parental roof, for which he secretly longed during several years after his departure. In the new land his fortunes did not flourish. Endowed with a good education, he at first eked out a scanty livelihood by teaching school; but after five years purchased some land in Upper 10Canada, and turned farmer. The reports of Astor’s enterprise and of fortunes to be acquired in the fur trade, tempted him to abandon the soil and embark in the promising project for a Columbia settlement, and he was a member of the contingent that sailed from New York in the “Tonquin,” in 1810. Arrived at Columbia River, Ross was soon assigned to a post in the interior, where he whiled away the tedium of existence by studying Indian languages and characteristics, by copious journalizing, and much reflection. Nor was incident lacking to divert the isolated fur-trader, as the various brigades of the rival North West Company swept up and down the Columbia, and the fate of Astoria hung trembling in the balance. Most of the “Nor’ Westers” were Scotchmen like himself, and Ross’s sympathies appear to have been enlisted strongly in their behalf. As the books of reminiscence written during his retirement grew, they took on the form of apologies for McDougal and McKenzie, the Scotch partners of the American house, and virtually became tirades against the associates of Astor, and his business management as well.
Upon the consummation of the sale of Astoria (October, 1813), Ross was easily induced to enter the service of the new British owners, and he remained upon Columbian waters so long as the Nor’ Westers operated in that district. With accustomed Scotch canniness he stipulated for an agreement in writing that he should be promoted at the end of seven years’ service; but just before the expiration of that term the North West Company merged with its great rival, the Hudson’s Bay (1821), and Ross’s hopes were again dashed. However, the governor of the Hudson’s Bay Company placed him in command of a 11large brigade for hunting and exploring the country of the Snake Indians—the vast region of the Rocky Mountain divide, in the present states of Montana and Idaho. Here for two years (1823–25) he led his motley crews of Canadians, half-breeds, Iroquois, and Hawaiians, crossing and recrossing the path of Lewis and Clark, and exploring the fastnesses of the Snake and Salmon rivers.
But the wilderness had now lost its charm, and Ross returned to at least the borders of civilization, there to live in quiet and rear his half-breed children. In recognition of his services, the Hudson’s Bay Company granted him a hundred acres of land in the Red River Valley, where he became one of the earliest and most prominent citizens of the present city of Winnipeg. His estate was known as “Colony Gardens,” and upon the profits of his trade among the settlers and of his relations with the aborigines he grew wealthy and influential. Being chosen the first sheriff of Assiniboine (the present province of Winnipeg), he was later (1835) appointed a member of its first Government Council. Some account of his life as a settler, and a few of his letters, are published in the Historical and Scientific Society of Manitoba Transactions No. 63 (Winnipeg, 1903).
At last blessed with leisure, Ross now turned author, and published three works detailing the differing phases of his life. The first—Adventures of the First Settlers on the Oregon or Columbia River—relates his experiences as a fur-trader in American employ, and was issued from a London press in 1849; this book we here republish. The narrative of his life upon Western waters under the direction of British companies, appeared in 1855, as The Fur Hunters of the Far West. His final essay was a 12history of The Red River Settlement, its Rise, Progress, and Present State, which appeared in 1856, the year of the author’s death. All of these books are written in a simple, clear, unpretentious style, being mainly narrations of daily events.
Referring specifically to the Adventures, which we have chosen for reprinting, it is evident that the author’s interest in topography was but slight. It is surprising to find a man who has had many years of intimate acquaintance with the interesting regions penetrated transiently by Lewis and Clark along narrow trails, contributing so slightly as does Ross to the world’s knowledge of the country; whereas Lewis and Clark brought back from their hurried journey a wealth of detailed information. With ethnology, Ross exhibits greater concern. His alliance with an Okanagan woman, and his constant contact with the natives of the coast, gave him a command of tribal habits, traditions, and beliefs which makes his work a valuable source for the study of Western Indian life. The last four chapters present a good sociological treatment of the natives of the Shahaptian family—their religion, government, family life, and characteristics—in the primitive state, before contact with the whites had brought modification and degeneracy. Ross’s account of the Indians of the coast, the Clatsop and Chinookan tribes, gives evidences of truth and accurate observation.
But it is chiefly as a narration of the fortunes of the Astorian expedition, that we value Ross’s book. Unlike Franchère, he exhibits no reserve, and unhesitatingly expresses his opinion of the conduct of Captain Jonathan Thorn and Astor’s partners, during the now famous voyage. His accounts of the adventures of the “Tonquin” 13and its passengers are consequently the more vivid and personal of the two. The dramatic situation evidently appealed strongly to our author’s temperament; the incidents at the Falkland and Hawaiian islands, the irascibility and unreasonableness of Thorn’s conduct, the useless sacrifice of life to the strictness of naval discipline, are related with no assuaging touch. Neither does the writer spare the reader an account of the hardships and trials of the adventurers, the poor and scanty food, the toil in felling trees and erecting buildings, the feuds and ill feeling between the workers, and the caprices of the commanding partners. Later, in describing the transfer of Astoria and its property to British hands, our author unhesitatingly appears as an apologist for the transaction, and an advocate of the pro-British party. His criticism of Astor’s management, while partly justifiable from Ross’s standpoint, seems to possess an element of personal pique; and for the clerks who, like Franchère, chose to remain loyal to the American owners, Ross has but few words of commendation. For a just estimate of the transaction, the reader must balance probabilities between the conclusions of Irving, Franchère, and Ross, and likewise take into consideration the emergencies arising from the Anglo-American war.
Aside from its historical value, Ross’s Adventures possesses abundant interest for all who are stirred by clearly-delineated accounts of life in the great silent places of earth. Our author has a graphic touch: dangers from Indian treachery, perils of the forests and the waterways, thrilling escapes of every sort, lose nothing under his pen; wilderness life is vividly portrayed—the sharp contrasts between civilization and savagery, the obstacles 14which beset man’s progress through the vast solitudes of the North-west, the forbidding aspects as well as the beauties of primeval nature; all these are presented with force and not seldom with charm.
Assistance in annotating this volume has been received from Louise Phelps Kellogg, Ph. D., and Edith Kathryn Lyle, Ph. D.
PREFACE
Having been one of the first commercial adventurers to the Columbia River, and having spent fifteen years of my life travelling among the savage tribes west of the Rocky Mountains, I was induced, from time to time, to note down such incidents and opinions, illustrative of savage life and manners, as appeared to me either new or interesting.
To the characteristic details of Indian life, I have added that of personal adventure, the trials and misfortunes which the first adventurers had to undergo among the Indians in that quarter; connecting therewith an account of the trade and commerce of the country during the early days of that bold spirit which animated the first explorers of the Columbia.
These different subjects have been arranged and {iv} linked together in their natural order, so as to form one complete narrative, embodying the history of “the Pacific Fur Company.”
It is not an arm-chair narrative, derived from hearsay tales, but the result of practical experience on the spot. From beginning to end, I had personally to act my part in the scenes described; they passed under my own eyes; and the account altogether may derive more value from being authentic than from any adventitious embellishment bestowed on it.
While on this part of our subject, it may be observed that there is an error which most travellers, especially those pioneers who first penetrate into dark and remote 22regions, fall into: they generally run into the extreme, and spoil a simple story by colouring. Not content to leave nature in its simple garb, they must brighten or darken, magnify or diminish, everything they describe, until at last the real likeness of the thing is entirely effaced, and truth itself, by over-refinement, is thrown into the shade.
What belongs to oneself is generally viewed with a partial eye; and perhaps that partiality influences {v} my own opinion as to the interest of the subject before us. In reference to this subject, however, others have written on it as well as myself. Let our readers, therefore, judge for themselves.
In presenting the present work to the public, I have no very sanguine expectations. All I aim at is to lay before my readers a faithful and impartial statement of what took place, during my own times, in a quarter hitherto but little known.
Freedom from imperfection is not to be expected; yet, on the whole, I hope that this volume will prove to the calm inquirer, in all matters connected with the subject generally, a sure and satisfactory guide: allowance being made for any changes that may have taken place since this account was written—thirty years ago.
CONTENTS — CHAPTER I
| CHAPTER I | |
| Introductory remarks—John Jacob Astor—Grasping views—Early traders of Canada—The Hudson’s Bay Company—American fur companies—Astor’s policy—Russian settlements—Coasting vessels—The Pacific Fur Company—Flattering results—Oregon territory—New association—Mr. Hunt—Golden prospects—Proposals accepted—List of adventurers—Land party—Sea party—The ship Tonquin—Remarks—Opinion against opinion—Observations—Land expedition departs—Sea party set off for New York—Bark canoe—Spectators—Canadian voyageurs | 33 |
| CHAPTER II | |
| The Tonquin sails—Quarrels on board—The captain’s character—Accommodations—A sudden squall—Flying fish—The captain’s harshness—Cape de Verd Islands—Alarm of fire—A suspicious sail—Crossing the line—Springing a leak—Short allowance of water—Immense wave—The Falkland Islands—Rocky passage—Wild fowl—Port Egmont Bay—The party on shore—Mr. Farnham’s gray goose—Old graves renewed—Epitaphs—Party left behind—New dangers—Mr. Robert Stuart’s determined conduct—Feuds on board—Cape Horn doubled—The weather—Pilot fish—Trade winds—Rogues’ mess—Little pilot—Mouna Roa—A man overboard—The mate in irons | 43 |
| {viii} CHAPTER III | |
| 24Karakakooa Bay—The sailors desert—The captain’s conduct—Productions of Owhyhee—Tocaigh Bay—Governor Young—Royal proclamation—Woahoo—Ourourah, the residence of Tammeatameah—Harbour fees—Excursion on shore—The Queen’s umbrella—The King’s appearance—Royal palace and guards—Arsenal, or royal workshop—Royal dinner—His Majesty’s fleet—Morais, or places of public worship—Sacred or puranee ground tabooed—Storm—A sailor left to his fate among the natives—Parting visit from his Majesty—His meanness—Diving of the natives—Native proas: how made—Clothing—Customs and peculiarities—Character of the women—White men at the Sandwich Islands—The King’s disposition towards foreigners—Captain Cook—Pahooas, or war spears—A sham fight—Religion—Tammeatameah conqueror and king—Apparent happiness of the natives—Prophetic hint—Distressed situation of a boat | 57 |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Departure from the Sandwich Islands—Bad weather—Live stock destroyed—Columbia River—A boat and crew lost—Captain’s conduct towards Mr. Fox—Mouth of the river—Bar and breakers—Cape Disappointment—Point Adams—Narrow escape of the long boat—Sounding the bar—A boat and crew left to perish—The ship in the breakers—Critical situation—Melancholy narrative of Steven Weeks—Search made for the lost boat, and narrow escape—Long boat swamped—Fidelity of the natives—Preparations for leaving the ship—Captain Thorn—The voyage concluded | 74 |
| CHAPTER V | |
| 25Preparations for landing—Site of the new emporium of the west—Astor’s representative—Hard work—Huge trees—Natives—Comecomly—Mode of felling the trees—Danger—Trying scenes—Three {ix} men killed—Three wounded—Party reduced by sickness—Disaffection—Conduct of the deputy—Desertion—Mr. Astor’s policy—Climate—Indian rumours—Comecomly’s intrigues and policy—Trip to the cascades—Mr. M‘Kay and north-west notions—Anecdote—Exploring party to the north—Several persons killed—Hostile threats of the Indians—Potatoes and other seeds planted—New building—Astoria—Departure of the ship—Dangerous situation of the whites—Great assemblage of Indians—People under arms—Blunderbuss accident—Alarming moment—Two strangers arrive—Mr. Thompson at Astoria—M‘Dougall’s policy—The two great functionaries | 88 |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| The ten tribes—Number of warriors—Their laws—Chief’s arbitrary power—Dress, games, and arms of the men—Dress of the women, slaves, and basket-making—Lewdness of the women—Food, ornaments—The salmon—Superstitious customs—Sturgeon—Fathomfish—Roots and berries—Circulating medium—Econé, or Good Spirit—Ecutoch, or Bad Spirit—Etaminua, or priests—Keelalles, or doctors—War canoes—Diseases—Winter houses—Temporary, or Summer houses—Fleas—Practice of flattening the head—Colonization—Wallamitte—Cowlitz, or Puget’s Sound—Conclusion | 102 |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| First expedition into the interior—Number of the party—Tongue Point—Canoe swamped—Sailing difficulties—Indian villages—Cedars—First night’s encampment—Mount Coffin—Cowlitz—Wallamitte—Columbia Valley—Point Vancouver—Difficulties—The Cascades—Concourse of Indians—General appearance of the country—The portage—Description of the cascades—The roll of tobacco—Pilfering—Mr. Thompson—Exchange of men—The Long Narrows—Warlike appearance of the Indian cavalry—Button contract—Critical situation of the party—Camp of gamblers—The Narrows {x}—Hard work at the carrying place—A day’s work—Description of the portage—Number of Indians—Aspect of the country—The plains begin—End of the woods—Want of sleep—Demeanour of the Indians | 115 |
| CHAPTER VIII | |
| 26Columbia Falls—A canoe swamped—Suspicious behaviour of the Indians—Stratagem—Umatallow—Walla Walla—Great body of Indians—Harangues—Indian ceremonies—The great forks—Difference in the waters—Length of the forks—The British flag—Mr. Thompson’s design—Indian ideas—Salmon—European articles—Tummatapam—Departure from the Forks—Indian honesty—Eyakema—Marl hills—Dead children—Superstitions—Priest’s Rapid—Rattlesnakes—Appearance of the country—Kewaugh-chen—Perilous situation of a canoe—The two sisters—The old Indian—Hunting party—Horses—The priest—Piss-cows—Sopa—Great assemblage of Indians—The comet—Oakinacken—Distance from Astoria—Indian council—Resolve to winter—Some account of the place—The stolen watch—The priest dismissed—Voyage concluded—The two strangers—First building—Division of the party—Lonely winter—The lost party—Indian trade—Mr. Stuart’s adventures | 131 |
| CHAPTER IX | |
| Anxieties at Astoria—Indians depart—A schooner built—The Dolly’s first trip—Criminal curiosity—The powder keg—The schooner condemned—Mr. Astor’s cargoes—His policy—Remarks on the North-West coast—Unwelcome rumours—Calpo’s statement—Rumours renewed—Hard cases—Joe Lapierre—Kasiascall’s account of the Tonquin—Strange Indian—Kasiascall’s conduct—His character—His design on Astoria—Remarks | 159 |
| {xi} CHAPTER X | |
| 27Land expedition—Hunt and M‘Kenzie—Montreal recruits—La Chine—Devout farewell—Mackina in 1810—Fur traders of the South—Frolic parties—Comparison between the South and North—Arrival at St. Louis—Recruiting service—Yankees—Canoemen—Delays at St. Louis—Difficulties—Mr. Miller—The Missouri—Canadian voyageurs—Winter quarters—Mr. Hunt revisits St. Louis—M‘Kenzie—Mr. Astor’s policy—The Yankees desert—Winter quarters broken up—Rocky Mountains—Pilot knobs—New scenes—Columbia River—The horses abandoned—Take to canoes—The canoes abandoned—Trappers—Mr. Miller—Party on foot—Hardships—Starvation—Conflicting councils—Gloomy prospects—Property en cache—The party divided—Three men perish—M‘Kenzie’s speech—He arrives at Astoria—Mr. Crooks and others left behind—Mr. Hunt’s arrival at Astoria—Voyage concluded | 173 |
| CHAPTER XI | |
| Doings at Astoria—Three parties on foot—Their object—M‘Lellan’s resolution—Hostile attack at the Long Narrows—Mr. Reed—Two Indians shot—Heroic conduct of M‘Lellan—Difficulties adjusted—Advance of the party—Remarks—Arrival at Oakinacken—Departure again for Astoria—Scene at Umatallow—Mr. Crook’s adventures and suffering—Yeck-a-tap-am—Umatallow left—Merit rewarded—Arrival of the party at Astoria—The ship Beaver there also | 186 |
| CHAPTER XII | |
| General meeting of the partners—Resolutions passed—Departure of the parties for the interior—Mr. Clarke—The cascades—Wyampam, or the Long Narrows—Situation of the party—Loss of time—Mr. M‘Kenzie—A stroll through the Indian camp—Mr. Clarke’s alarms—Command transferred—Reed’s rifle recovered—A robber in irons—The five shots—Yeck-a-tap-am rewarded—Mr. Stuart’s departure {xii} for St. Louis—Second division—Summer trip to She Whaps—Boullard and his squaw—Mr. Stuart’s arrival at Oakinacken—Departure for She Whaps—Winter operations at Oakinacken—Visits—Travelling scenes—A night in the snow—Jacque and his powder-horn—Mr. Stuart’s account of his journey—Arrival at Walla Walla | 194 |
| CHAPTER XIII | |
| 28Mr. Clarke—Stragglers—Hard Travelling—Cox’s pilgrimage—Visit to Spokane—Trade—Mr. Pillet—Mr. Farnham—Cootanais and Flatheads—M‘Lennan—Plunge in the lake—Adventures—Outposts—Catatouch chief—Curiosity—Fracas—Introduction of civilization—Commotion—M‘Kenzie—Great Snake River—Caches robbed—Canadian wanderers—Character of the Shahaptains—Visit to Spokane—M‘Tavish—Account of the war—Winter travels—M‘Kenzie at Astoria—New resolves—M‘Kenzie’s return to his post—Indian chiefs—Bold enterprize—Property recovered—Chiefs and their horses—Stratagems—Indians outwitted—Plotting—Friendly Island—Conference—Marauding propensities—Treaty of peace—System changed—Plentiful market—The island abandoned—Arrival at Walla Walla—Commotions among the savages—Tummeatapam—Arrival at Astoria | 207 |
| CHAPTER XIV | |
| Mr. Stuart—Snake River—Trappers—Joyous meeting—Trapper’s resolution—Crow Indians’ troubles—Horses change masters—Mr. Stuart on foot—M‘Lellan left alone—Hardships of the party—Famine—Le Clerc’s horrid proposition—The old bull—The old horse—Pilot knobs—Winter quarters—Unwelcome visitors—Change of quarters—Spring—Travelling at random—An Otto Indian—River Platte—Two traders—News of the war—The Missouri—The old horse given for an old canoe—St. Louis—Mr. Astor—Wallamitte—Falls—Scenery—Habits of the Collap-poh-yea-ass tribes—Concourse of savages—M‘Dougall’s letter—{xiii} M‘Kenzie’s stratagem—Indian disappointment—The ship Beaver—Coasting voyage—Mr. Astor’s policy—Captains—Their instructions—Mr. Hunt baulked in his plans—The Boston merchants—Mr. Astor’s conduct—Difficulties of Mr. Hunt’s situation—The ship Albatross—All the parties at headquarters | 222 |
| CHAPTER XV | |
| 29Meeting of the partners—Warm discussion—M‘Kenzie—Eloquence of the times—Reasons for dissolving the company—Dissenting partners converted—Final resolve—The deputy’s powers—Departure of the brigade—A canoe lost—A man’s leg in jeopardy—Rumours at the narrows—Snake party—Rumours renewed—Tummeatapam’s counsel—Hostile appearance at the forks—Number of Indians—Nez Percés’ fleet—Fears of the whites—Indian visit—Strong guard—Mr. Clarke—Relic of the silver goblet—Mr. Hunt at Astoria—Face of affairs changed—Mr. Hunt departs from Astoria—North-West squadron—A great Eri duped—Bill of sale—Petty manœuvring—Rumours of ships—The Astorians at their post—Bill signed—Astoria delivered up—North-West Company | 236 |
| CHAPTER XVI | |
| Mr. Franchère—Comecomly’s anxiety—His report of a sail—His attachment to the Americans—Laframboise, the interpreter—Mr. M‘Dougall’s visit—The Racoon sloop-of-war—Comecomly grows partial to the British flag—North-West partners—British officers—Astoria changed to Fort George—Captain Black’s character—Mr. Hunt’s voyage—Commodore Porter—Mr. Hunt leaves the Marquesas—Arrival at the Sandwich Islands—Rumours—The ship Lark—Eight persons perish—Columbian affairs—The property delivered—No ice—The people assembled—Voyage—The Cascade banditti—Two North-West canoes—North-West affray at the cascades—Mr. Stuart wounded—Mr. Keith’s conduct—Preparations for war—The great expedition—Conduct of the Cath-le-yach-é-yach Indians—Expedition fails—The effect—Remarks | 246 |
| {xiv} CHAPTER XVII | |
| Party to the Wallamitte—Hunt’s voyage concluded—The brig Pedlar—M‘Dougall suspected—His character vindicated—Mr. Hunt’s remarks on the late concern—His liberality—His farewell address to the clerks—Final departure from Columbia—The party for Canada—Efforts and disappointments—Snake expedition—The melancholy story of Pierre Dorion’s wife—Massacre of the Snake party—Remarks—A winter in the Blue Mountains—List of casualties—Astor’s hopes disappointed—Comment on the late concern | 261 |
| 30 | |
| CHAPTER XVIII | |
| Origin of the Oakinackens—Religion—Good Spirit—Evil Spirit—Ideas of a future state—Ceremonies—End of this world—Extent of country—Names and number of tribes—Warriors—Population—Royal family—The great chief, or Red Fox—Wild hemp—Long journeys—Barter—Emblem of royalty—Government—Indian ideas—Council of chiefs—Manners—Employments—Plurality of wives—Brawls—Dress and clothing—Stratagems—A savage in wolfs clothing—Painted faces and sleek hair 272 | |
| CHAPTER XIX | |
| Marriage contracts—National custom—Exchange of presents—Nocturnal visits—The object—Purchasing the bride—Customs on the occasion—Feuds and quarrels—Tla-quillaugh, or Indian doctor—His office—Precarious life—Mode of paying him—Manner of treating the sick—Customs and ceremonies on the occasion—Hard duty—Superstitions—Knowledge of roots and herbs—Curing wounds—Diseases, or general complaints—Gambling—Tsill-all-a-come, or the national game—Manner of playing it—Bets—Gambling propensities—Hot baths—Manner of using them—On what occasions—Indian qualifications—Gymnastic exercise—Comparison—General remarks | 283 |
| {xv} CHAPTER XX | |
| Social habits—Winter habitations—Economy of the winter—Summer employments—Collecting of food—Fish barriers—Salmon—Division of labour—Roots and berries—Scenes at the fish camp—Mode of catching the deer—Preparation of food—Furnaces or ovens—Implements of warfare—Spampt, how made—Pine moss—Bread, how prepared—Great war-dance—Manner of fighting—Treaties of peace—Scalps—Slaves—Funeral ceremonies—Mode of interment—Graves—Superstitions—Emblems—Customs—Mourning—Punishments—Sedate habits and docile dispositions | 295 |
| 31 | |
| CHAPTER XXI | |
| Calculation of time—Singular manner of naming children—Peculiar modes of address—Anecdote of an Indian chief—Indian forbearance—Conduct of the whites in Indian countries—Comparison of crime between Indians and whites—Manner of swaddling infants—Hardships during infancy—Savage customs—Indian constitution—Chief cause of scanty population—A day’s journey—Calculation of distance—Rough roads—Indian ideas—Social habits—Some remarks on the system adopted for converting Indians to the Christian faith | 304 |
| APPENDIX | |
| Chinook Vocabulary | 321 |
| Table of the Weather at the Mouth of the Columbia | 330 |
Introductory remarks—John Jacob Astor—Grasping views—Early traders of Canada—The Hudson’s Bay Company—American fur companies—Astor’s policy—Russian settlements—Coasting vessels—The Pacific Fur Company—Flattering results—Oregon territory—New association—Mr. Hunt—Golden prospects—Proposals accepted—List of adventurers—Land party—Sea party—The ship Tonquin—Remarks—Opinion against opinion—Observations—Land expedition departs—Sea party set off for New York—Bark canoe—Spectators—Canadian voyageurs.
When I first conceived the idea of writing the following narrative, my design was to begin with a brief outline of the discoveries already made on the coast of the Pacific, from Drake in 1579 to Vancouver in 1792;[2] or, rather, down to the present time; but, on second thoughts, I felt convinced that enough had been done already in that branch of {2} inquiry; or, at least, that the further prosecution of it might be better left to those who aspire to literary fame. Mine is an humbler ambition—not to figure as an author, but to record faithfully, as a trader, the events in which I bore a part; and, in so doing, to gratify a desire kindled by an acquaintance with strange scenes 34and new fields of action, in a remote country which is still but little known.
The progress of discovery contributes not a little to the enlightenment of mankind; for mercantile interest stimulates curiosity and adventure, and combines with them to enlarge the circle of knowledge. To the spirit of enterprise developed in the service of commercial speculation, civilized nations owe not only wealth and territorial acquisitions, but also their acquaintance with the earth and its productions. The illustration of these remarks will be found in the following pages.
Mr. Astor of New York, a German by birth, but a citizen of the United States, raised himself, by his adventurous and enterprising spirit, from small beginnings to be one of the wealthiest and most eminent merchants in America. Soon after his arrival in the United States, about the year 1784, he commenced his commercial career in the traffic of furs: at first on a very narrow scale, but gradually expanding as his means increased. In this way he made visits to Canada, purchasing furs in that country, and shipping them from thence to the London market: {3} and it is supposed that at this period his buoyant and aspiring mind conceived the vast project of grasping in his own hands, at some future day, the whole fur trade of North America.[3]
The valuable furs and peltries scattered in former days over the extensive forests, lakes, and rivers of the Canadas, like the rich mines of Potosi and Mexico, invited many adventurers. The French, for some time after settling there, carried on an irregular but lucrative traffic in furs 35and peltries, with very little opposition, until the year 1670, when the Hudson’s Bay Company, established by royal charter, took possession of the territory now called “Rupert’s Land,” or Hudson’s Bay. The Canada, or as it was more generally called, the North-West Company, was formed in 1787; and these soon became the two great rival companies of the north, as we shall have occasion to notice more fully hereafter. Next on the theatre of action appeared the Mackina Company, which swept the warm regions of the south, as the two others did those of the wintry north, until the American Fur Company, established by Mr. Astor in 1809, commenced operations; but he, finding the Mackina fur traders somewhat in his way, bought out that Company, and added its territorial resources in 1811 to those of the American Fur Company. This body corporate was entitled the South-West, in contradistinction to the North-West Company.[4]
Mr. Astor now saw himself at the head of all the {4} fur trade of the south, and his intention was to penetrate through the barriers of the Northern Company, so as eventually to come into possession of all the fur trade east of the Rocky Mountains. With this plan still before him, he now turned his views to the trade on the coast of the Pacific, or that new field lying west of the Rocky 36Mountains, and which forms the subject of our present narrative. In this quarter the Russians alone had regular trading ports, opposite to Kamtschatka, where they still carry on a considerable trade in furs and seal-skins, sending them across the Pacific direct to China. Their capital is limited, and their hunting grounds almost entirely confined to the sea-coast and islands around their establishments. The American coasting vessels also frequent this quarter, collecting vast quantities of valuable furs, which they convey to the Chinese market. This casual traffic by coasters, yielded to their owners in former days, by means of the returning cargo, an average clear gain of a thousand per cent. every second year; but these vessels are not so numerous of late, nor are the profits thus made so great as formerly.
The comprehensive mind of Mr. Astor could not but see these things in their true light, and perceive that if such limited and desultory traffic produced such immense profits, what might not be expected from a well-regulated trade, supported by capital and prosecuted with system: at all events, the Russian trader would then be confined within {5} his own limits, and the coasting vessels must soon disappear altogether.
Towards the accomplishment of the great plan which he had in view, Mr. Astor now set about opening a new branch of the fur trade on the Pacific, under the appellation of the “Pacific Fur Company,” the grand central depôt of which was to be at the mouth of the Columbia River, the “Oregon of the Spaniards.”[5] By this means he contemplated carrying off the furs of all the countries 37west of the Rocky Mountains; at the same time forming a chain of trading posts across the Continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific, along the waters of the great Missouri: connecting by this chain the operations of the South-West Company on the east, with that of the Pacific Fur Company on the west side of the dividing ridge.
This grand commercial scheme, appearing now plain and practicable, at least to men of sanguine disposition, gave much satisfaction to the American public, who, from the results contemplated, became deeply interested in its success; for all the rich cargoes of furs and peltries thus to be collected annually over the vast expanse were to be shipped in American vessels for the great China mart, there to be sold, and the proceeds invested in a return cargo of teas, silks, beads, and nankeens, and other articles of high demand in the United States; which would not only prevent to some extent the American specie from going out of the Union for such articles, but also turn the barren wilds of the north and far {6} west into a source of national wealth. Some, however, of the more sagacious and influential among the Americans themselves observed to Mr. Astor at the time, that his plan would be likely to give umbrage to the British, and arouse them to assert more speedily their claims of prior discovery to the Oregon quarter, and that such a step would operate against him. To these suggestions Mr. Astor simply observed, “that he had thought of that, but intended chiefly to employ in his undertaking British subjects, and that he should on that account give less offence; besides,” added, he, “the claims of prior discovery and territorial right are claims to be settled by Government only, and not by an individual.”
Mr. Astor’s plans, hitherto known only to a few, now began to develope themselves more publicly. On the first intimation of the scheme, the North-Westerns took 38the alarm; for having already, in the prosecution of their trade, penetrated to the west side of the Rocky Mountains, in the direction of New Caledonia and the north branch of the Columbia, where they expected to reap a rich harvest, they viewed Astor’s expedition to that quarter with a jealous eye, according to the old adage that “two of a trade seldom agree;” but others again extolled the brilliant project, as the brightest gem in the American Union, and particularly many of the retired partners of the North-West Company, who, not being provided for in some late arrangements, had left that concern in disgust, and therefore were the most likely {7} to oppose with effect the ambitious views of their former coadjutors. These were just the men Mr. Astor had in his eye; men of influence and experience among savages, and who from their earlier days had been brought up in, and habituated to, the hardships of the Indian trade. To several of these persons Mr. Astor disclosed his plans and made proposals, whereupon Messrs. M‘Kay, M‘Kenzie, M‘Dougall, and Stuart, entered into his views, and became partners in the new concern.[6] The former of these gentlemen had accompanied Sir Alexander M‘Kenzie in his voyages of discovery to the North Polar Sea in 1789, and to the Pacific in 1793, the narratives of which are before the public; and most of the others had equal experience, and were all of them in some way or other related to the great men at the head of the North-West Company.[7]
Articles of association and co-partnership were therefore entered into and concluded at New York, in the spring 39of 1810, between those gentlemen and Mr. Astor, establishing the firm of the Pacific Fur Company, as already noticed; to which firm five other partners, namely, Messrs. Hunt, Crooks, Miller, M‘Lellan, and Clarke, were soon afterwards added.[8] The association was not a joint-stock concern; Mr. Astor alone furnished the capital, amounting to 200,000 dollars, divided into 100 shares of 2000 dollars each, with power to increase the capital to 500,000 dollars.
The association was formed for a period of twenty {8} years, but with this proviso, that it was to be dissolved if it proved either unprofitable or impracticable, after a trial of five years; during which trial, however, Mr. Astor, as stockholder, was alone to bear all expenses and losses, the other partners giving only their time and labour. Of the above shares, Mr. Astor held fifty in his own hands; Mr. Hunt, as his representative and chief manager of the business, five; while the other partners, who were to carry on the trade with the Indians, were to have four each, in the event of the business succeeding. The remaining shares were reserved for the clerks, who joined the concern as adventurers, without any other remuneration than their chances of success at the end of the five years’ trial. The only exceptions were Mr. Robert Stuart and myself, who were to have our promotion at the end of the third year. From the proportion of interest, or number of shares in the hands of the stockholder and his representative, it will appear evident that the other partners, however unanimous they might be, could never have gained a majority of votes in any case over those which might have been by proxy appointed to represent Astor.
At the head depôt, or general rendezvous, was to be 40stationed Mr. Astor’s representative. The person appointed to this important trust was Wilson Price Hunt, a gentleman from New Jersey, who alone, of the whole party, had never been engaged in the Indian trade; yet his active habits, perseverance, and enterprise, soon made good his want of experience, {9} and enabled him to discharge the duties of his station. In him was also vested the chief authority, or, in his absence, in M‘Dougall. It was therefore to either or to both of these gentlemen that all Mr. Astor’s measures were made known, and all his cargoes consigned.
At the time when these novel schemes were first agitated, I was in Upper Canada; and the first intimation I had of them was in a letter from Mr. M‘Kay, the senior partner, requesting an interview with me at Montreal. To Montreal I accordingly went in the month of May; and there, for the first time, I saw the gilded prospectus of the new Company, and, accepting the proposals made to me by Mr. Astor, was the first to join the expedition;—and who at the time would not have joined it, for, although the North-Westerns tried to throw all the cold water of the St. Lawrence on the project, yet they could not extinguish the flame it had spread abroad. The flattering hopes and golden prospects held out to adventurers, so influenced the public mind, that the wonder-stricken believers flocked in from all quarters to share in the wonderful riches of the far west.
It need not be wondered at, if, under the influence of such extravagant expectations, many applicants appeared; but in accordance with Astor’s plan, that the business should be carried on only by persons of well-tested merit and experience, for on their habits of perseverance and 41enterprise alone rested all hopes {10} of ultimate success, his assistants were selected with more than ordinary care, every poor fellow that engaged being led to believe that his fortune was already made. Here Messrs. Franchère, Pillet, M‘Gillis, Farnham, and M‘Lennan, besides Mr. Stuart and myself, joined the adventurers;[9] besides five tradesmen or mechanics, and twenty-four canoe men, the best that could be found of their classes.
Operations were now deemed requisite for the accomplishment of the Company’s views; therefore, while one party, headed by Mr. Hunt, was ordered to make its way across the Continent by land, another party, headed by Mr. M‘Kay, was to proceed by sea in the Tonquin, a ship of 300 tons, and mounting twelve guns. The Tonquin’s course was round Cape Horn, for the north-west coast. The Columbia River was to be the common destination of both parties. The land party at its outset consisted of only seventeen persons, but Mr. Hunt’s object was to augment that number to about eighty as he passed along, by means of American trappers and hunters from the south. Here M‘Kenzie strongly recommended Mr. Hunt to take all his men from Canada, as too much time might probably be lost in collecting them from the south; and besides, Canadians, as he thought, would answer much better; but Mr. Hunt adhered to his first plan.
The arrangement of these two expeditions, in which M‘Kay, whose life had been spent in voyaging through the Indian countries, and who was nowise {11} qualified as a merchant, had resigned the inland voyage to a gentleman, bred to mercantile pursuits, but unacquainted with this 42new mode of travelling, exhibited such an egregious inversion of the ordinary rules of prudence, as gave rise to much comment.
Matters being so far settled, Mr. Hunt, who was now seconded by Mr. M‘Kenzie, left La Chine, nine miles south of Montreal, with the land expedition, in the beginning of July; and, on the 20th of the same month, the ship party, consisting of three partners, five clerks, Mr. Stuart, and myself, five mechanics, and fourteen canoe men, left Montreal for New York, where we were to embark. Of this number, however, M‘Kay and eight of the most expert voyageurs proceeded in a bark canoe through the States: on all such occasions there is a kind of mutual understanding between both parties, that is, between the canoe men and the canoe, the former undertaking to carry the latter over the land part of the journey, while the latter is bound to carry the others safe over water. The appearance of this unusual kind of craft on the American waters, with the cheerful chantings of its crew, their feathered caps and sylvan appearance, as they approached the gay city of New York, attracted such a crowd of spectators of all classes around them, as left but little space to land; but what was the astonishment, when, in the twinkling of an eye, two of the crew were seen to shoulder their craft, capable of containing {12} two tons weight, and to convey it to a place of safety on terra firma. Mr. Astor, who happened to be present, was so delighted with the vivacity and dexterity of the two men, that he gave them an eagle to drink his health; then turning round, observed to some gentlemen who were standing by, that “six Americans could not do what these two brawny fellows had done,” which observation gave rise to some further remarks, when 43Mr. M‘Kay, with an air of confidence, challenged the swiftest New York boat for a three mile race, offering to bet ten to one on his canoe men, but, after what had been witnessed, no one appeared disposed to risk his money. It is scarcely necessary in this place to observe, that the Canadian voyageurs are among the most expert and venturesome canoe men in the world.