‘How lovely!’ said a lady to a gentleman on the
deck by her side, as they were drinking in all the beauty of the
scene as one of the fine ships of the Orient Company dropped her
anchor in the Bay of Naples. ‘And look what a swarm
of boats have come out to greet us!’
They were a swarm indeed, some of them with divers to exhibit
their prowess, some with fruit and flowers, some with the lava
ornaments in the manufacture of which the Neapolitans exhibit
such exquisite skill, and others with musicians—vocal and
instrumental—keeping up for the time quite a
serenade. These Neapolitans gain but little, it is to be
feared, on such occasions, but the Neapolitans are a frugal people, and
make a little go a long way.
The lady was Rose, the gentleman by her side was her
husband.
‘Yes; and see, one of the boats has a young girl who has
come on deck with flowers, which she is fastening in the
gentlemen’s coats in hope of a small fee. How pretty
she looks!’
The girl approached Rose, to whom she offered a flower.
‘Why, it speaks the language of hope,’ said
Rose. ‘I take it as a good omen that here we shall
find the Italian lady of whom we have come in search.’
‘Let us hope that it may be so. We have no time to
lose if we mean to go on shore. The health officer has done
his duty, and given leave for the captain to land his
passengers. Let us hasten to get on board the steam
launch. I see already they have got our luggage.
Fortunately for me there is not much of it.’
And in a few minutes they were at the custom-house. The
only difficulty was a small box of cigars, on which
Wentworth had to pay a most exorbitant duty.
At the end of the quay they found a crowd of coachmen waiting
for hire, shouting and gesticulating in the wildest manner.
Rose was quite frightened at their appearance, and with the noise
they made. However, they found one who did not charge more
than double the ordinary fare to drive them to the hotel.
As they drove along they encountered, of course, some of the
awful drain smells for which the city has long been famous.
‘I don’t wonder, now,’ said Rose, as they
pulled up before a grand hotel, ‘at the saying, “See
Naples and die.” How can people live where such
smells are met with everywhere? But if that Italian
Countess is alive we may find her. Perhaps she can help us
to establish our boy’s claim.’
That same morning an Italian Countess came home from her daily
drive in a great state of trepidation. She had seen an
English face that she remembered but too well—it was that
of Miss Howard, the celebrated actress. She had ordered the
coachman to keep the lady in sight; but that was impossible, the
crowd was too great, and she returned home not a little
agitated. Was it fancy or fact? was a question she could
not determine.
What could she do? Well, she drove off to the English
Consul next day. Perhaps he could tell her. Alas, he
was in utter ignorance of the matter.
There were the hotels; she would drive to them and make
inquiries. There were only a few of them, as a rule,
patronized by the English. It would be easy to make
inquiries. She did so, but she could hear of no Miss Howard
at any of them. All day long she was driving up and down
the principal streets, but in vain. There is not much to
see in Naples itself, it is the country round that is the
attraction, and Rose and her husband were out all day long
studying the remains of Pompeii, climbing up Mount Vesuvius,
sailing to Sorrento or Capri, exploring the ruins of Baiæ,
and the grave of Virgil. There was much to see, and they had
no intention to let the grass grow under their feet. Daily
they returned at a late hour to their hotel, charmed but wearied;
and thus they had but little time to spend in the streets,
looking at the shops, or studying the manners and customs of the
people.
The Countess pondered over the matter deeply. She lived
a retired life herself; she had few friends; her establishment
was on a very moderate scale. There were those who said she
was not a Countess, that her title was merely an assumed
one. This was unfair, as most of the ladies one meets in
Naples are Countesses, and the presumption therefore was in
favour of her ladyship’s claims. Countess or no
Countess, she was in a very troubled state. She had seen a
face that reminded her of old times in London—of her
intrigue with Sir Watkin Strahan—of her worming herself
into the confidence of his lady—of her participation in the
abduction of the heir—in fact, of her revenge; and she
sighed as she thought how little good she had gained by it.
Her ladyship’s maid was alarmed. What had come
to the Countess it was beyond her power to imagine.
‘Have you anything on your mind?’ said her old
Italian priest as he sat in the first-floor of one of the villas
that looked over Naples on to its lovely bay and the sea beyond,
whilst Vesuvius on the left was indicating, in its usual way,
that it was suffering a good deal in its inside. The old
priest lunched with her ladyship every day.
‘Anything on my mind?’ said the lady.
‘Oh, dear father, no. Why talk to me in this way this
bright afternoon, when all nature seems so bright and gay?
Ah, it is a beautiful world when one is young—the terraces,
the gardens, the flowers, the blue sea, the old castle beneath,
the streets with the jewellers’ shops, the fine churches
with their sacred services and sacred paintings. How I love
them all! I could not live away from La Belle Naples.
Oh, that I could stay here for ever!’
‘That were a foolish wish, daughter,’ said the
holy man. ‘Naples is very fine and its bay
is beautiful, but you have something better to look at.
See, the crucifix! Behold Who bleeds and suffers
there—Who founded the Catholic Church of which I am a
humble member, and in whose name I speak. At one time, if I
may believe what I hear, you were not quite so fond of Naples as
you seem to be now. I have heard that you went to the land
of the heretics—that Island of England which has so long
denied the faith, but which I am glad to find is abandoning its
heresy, repenting of its sin, and returning to the Holy
See. When we see the sister of an English Prime Minister
find salvation in the bosom of the Holy Church, when our sacred
officials are run after in all the highest circles, when they
astonish all London by their works of charity and labours of
love, by their eloquence and learning and saintly lives; when
these Islanders, insolent and haughty as they are to one another,
crowd as they do to Rome, and prostrate themselves at
Rome’s feet as they do, we know that the end is
near—that the time of the triumph of the one
Catholic and Universal Church, to whom St. Peter committed the
care of the keys, is at hand. Pray that that blessed time
may soon arrive. I have been to St. Paul’s—I
know Westminster Abbey—it would rejoice my heart to hear
that once more there was performed in them the Holy Service of
the Mass.’
‘Holy father, that is my daily prayer.’
‘I am glad to hear you say so. But tell me, when
you were among the heretics were you always a daughter of the
Church?’
‘Always, holy father. I fulfilled my
mission—you know what that was.’
‘I have heard something of it.’
‘I should think so,’ replied the lady with a
smile. ‘I had money, and I drew around me its
worshippers. I was of an old Italian family, and stood well
in the upper London circles. I had beauty—smile not,
holy father, though you see me old and yellow and
wrinkled—and beauty, as you know, never spreads its net in
vain. I believe, also, I had wit, and wit goes far in that
land of
fogs and foxhunters, of prudish women and milksops, of cant and
humbug.’
‘Ah,’ said the monk, with a smile of approbation,
‘you seem not to have liked those English—those
heretics—those lunatic sightseers who, as they never can be
happy at home, come to us to forget their sorrows, and who fancy
that by doing so they are amusing themselves.’
‘Truly no, holy father. How could I? They do
not even worship the Virgin Mary!’
The holy father shook his head and sighed.
‘I think, daughter, you wished to have a chat with
me. There was something on your mind.’
‘Holy father, you are right; and as I cannot come to
church to make confession I have sent for you.’
‘Yes; in the name of the Holy Father, and armed with his
authority, I may hear confession and grant, to the truly
penitent, absolution. The Apostle Peter had that power, he
received it from the great Head of the Church; and our
Popes—His true followers—have ever used that power
for the cure of poor sinners, for the good of the Church, for the
glory of His Blessed Name. We humble ministers hear private
confessions. It is a sacred privilege, to be guarded
jealously; but I know its value. I have seen how the weak
and erring mortal who has confessed to his priest has had a heavy
weight taken off his heart, has lost the cares and sorrows which
were darkening and shortening his days, has gained joy and
gladness as he thus realizes the Divine favour and feels certain
that after the pangs of death are over we shall rescue him from
the pains of purgatory, and he shall pass away to the mansions of
the new Jerusalem, shall walk its golden streets, shall drink of
its surpassing joys, shall join in its celestial harmonies, and
take his stand with the great company of the elect gathered by
the labours of the Holy Catholic Church out of every age and
country under heaven. This is what we gain by means of the
Mass, and yet the heretics scoff at the service and audaciously
assert—in this respect only following the arch-heretic,
Luther—that the Mass is simply a means for getting money
out of the pockets of the people.’
‘What awful blasphemy!’ said the lady with a
shudder, at the same time making the sign of the cross.
‘Glad indeed was I to leave that horrid country. It
is full of Free Catholics.’
‘Free Catholics!’ said the priest, in a tone of
alarm. ‘What can they be?’
‘Alas, holy father! they are everywhere—in Paris,
in Brussels, in London. They are only Catholics in form,
but not in heart. In fact, they are no better than
Protestants.’
‘Not exactly—if they keep up the forms of the Holy
Church they are better than Protestants,’ said the priest,
‘who in denying the form deny the faith, as the holy
Apostle says, and are worse than infidels. But, my
daughter, time is wearing away.’
‘Ah, truly, holy father, it is luncheon-time.
Already I hear by the gong that it is served.’
The father knew the rules of the house, and timed his
visit accordingly. Soup, fowl, fish, with cut of roast
lamb, a choice bottle of Italian wine—it won’t bear
transplanting, nor a sea voyage—a few grapes and green
figs, with a cigarette and a demitasse of coffee, were not to be
despised. He found alike his piety and his benevolence all
the better for such a feast. The Countess kept a cook and a
butler, and they were neither of them novices by any means.
There has been good eating and drinking on the shores of the Bay
of Naples, at any rate since the time of the Romans. Naples
owes its fame, and probably its existence, to the superlative
loveliness of its situation. As old Sam Rogers sang:
‘Not
a grove,
Citron or pine or cedar: not a grot
Seaward, and mantled with the gadding vine,
But breathes enchantment;’
and thus it was that the bon vivants of the old world
loved the favoured spot—that Baiæ was the Brighton of
the Romans. Between it and Puteoli rolled the Lucrine Lake,
over which skimmed the small yachts of fashionable visitors, while around
were the oyster-beds for the luxurious tables of Rome. It
was there Sergius Orata of blessed memory established the fine
oyster-beds which have ever since been a model for all succeeding
ages, and a name grateful in the ears of the epicure.
The lady and her guest had coffee served up in an adjoining
apartment. The lady lit up her cigarette, the gentleman did
the same. It is wonderful how tobacco quickens the
conversational powers. High-born dames, as well as Irish
fish women, in this respect own the influence of the seductive
weed.
‘Ah, father,’ said the Countess, ‘you have
known me long. I have confidence in you.’
‘Yes; I have known madame long—friend of the good
cause, a supporter of the true Church—liberal with her
money and her time, strict in the observance of holy days.
What would you, my daughter?’
‘Ah, father,’ said the lady with a sigh; ‘it
was not always so—I have lived.’
‘Yes; many of us who now pose as saints can say as
much,’ said the holy father. ‘What a blessed
thing it is to be able to find out what is true life, what are
true joys—the ecstasy of being lost in the Divine Being, of
being waited on by angels, hasting to guide one the way to
Paradise, of appealing to the sweet Virgin Mary, of having her as
an intercessor night and day for our sins in the court of
Heaven! Compared with these things, what are the pleasures
of sense and sin—which are soon vanished, and always leave
a sting behind?’
‘Oh yes, father; I can feel and realize all this, but I
am not happy. I am in great anxiety—I have a great
weight on my mind. My medical man tells me to avoid
excitement, that I suffer from disease of the heart, that any day
I may have an attack which may be attended with fatal
consequences.’
‘Oh, dear madame, calm yourself. You look
well—madame speaks and walks well. There is assuredly
little serious to contemplate. These doctors, who are
they?—ignorant quacks who, for their own selfish ends, make us
believe that we are on the way to death when in reality we are in
the enjoyment of health and strength. Remember how, in a
cholera year, Death met the Devil as he was on his way to
Vienna. “I shall slay twenty thousand people,”
said Death. In a day or two they met again.
“Ah!” said the Devil, “only ten thousand died
of cholera.” “Ah,” said Death,
“that is true.” “How, then,” asked
the Devil, “did you make up your number?”
“Easy enough,” was the reply; “ten thousand
were killed by the cholera and the other ten died of
fright!” Ah, these doctors, they do a lot of
mischief! They are also, I fear, men of science—that
is, men of no religion. It is dangerous for one’s
soul to have them about us. It is the priest, your
ladyship, who is the true friend of all in sickness or adversity,
or doubt or sorrow.’
‘Oh, father, I believe you. And now to
business.’
‘With all my heart.’
‘There is no one who is likely to overhear
us?’
‘None. The house is silent as the grave,’ of
which it really reminded one with its funereal embellishments,
its ghastly pictures of saints and martyrs—the work of old
masters they said, horrible to look on—and crucifixes of
every kind. In some parts of Italy this show is supposed to
indicate the possession of true piety, and that, like charity,
covers a multitude of sins.
‘Well, father, let me state a case in which I am
interested.’
‘I am all attention.’
‘In the fair city of Florence there was a girl, fair in
person, a fine figure, a sunny face, a gift of song. She
was the child of pious parents in the neighbouring
mountains. The father was an officer in the Pope’s
army. When all Europe dashed its armies, not in vain,
against the holy rock of St. Peter’s, the father died as a
brave man should. The mother lived on on her small estate
on the mountains. The girl loved the city, and the museums,
and the gardens, and the picture galleries. She would not
go back to the solitude of her country home; in fact, she ran
away, and one morning she met an English milor. He was
rich, he was handsome, he was well-born; he told her he loved her
to distraction—she would always be happy with him. In
a foolish hour the silly girl went on board milor’s yacht,
that was lying in the bay—just as the yachts of milors lie
there to-day.’
‘Ah! that was bad,’ said the priest.
‘Yes, it was indeed, holy father,’ continued the
lady. ‘The girl remained there; she believed in the
milor; she learnt his language; she amused his idle hours.
He did not know his own mind; she did not know hers, and both
thought they were happy.’
‘It was bad,’ said the priest. ‘Evil
came of it. You need tell me no more. Evil always
comes of such liaisons. Where the Church does not bless,
the great enemy of souls, like a roaring lion, comes
in.’
‘But there is a good deal more to be
told.’
‘Proceed, madam, I am all attention.’
‘The milor was lost sight of. The lady appears in
London. Socially, she had kept her reputation untouched;
she assumed an Italian title of nobility. There are only
too many in London, especially among rich parvenues, who throw
open their doors to anyone with a foreign title, whether real or
assumed.’
‘So I have heard, madam.’
‘The Italian lady in this way made many acquaintances
and some friendships. Amongst the latter was a lady in weak
health, and in great trouble of body and mind. The Italian
lady was interested in her; she seemed so sad and
sorrowful—almost as sad and sorrowful as herself. The
lady had many confidences to make. She was the wife of the
rich milor; she was about to present him with a child—a son
and heir it was to be hoped. She dreaded the event, she was
so weak and sad.’
‘“What will you?” said the Italian
lady to the English one. “That you come and stay with
me—that you be my companion and friend. Everything
shall be placed in your hands.” The Italian lady was
delighted. In the first place it would give her an
opportunity to meet her English milor again; perhaps to regain
her old authority over him. Alas! she was
mistaken.’
‘And it was quite as well, too,’ said the
priest. ‘Her better part was that of a penitent; it
was only thus the ministers of the Church could absolve her of
her sin.’
‘Milor had lost all interest in the Italian woman who
had given up to him her youth, her love, her innocence, and her
life. Milor felt no pleasure at once more recognising her
as established in his grand house in town as the friend and
companion of his wife.’
‘Was this madame, this Italian Countess, this friend of
yours, very much distressed, was she broken-hearted?’ asked
the priest with a quiet smile.
‘Not exactly. Her idea was to take a grand
revenge.’
‘Ah! that is more the way of Italians. But what
was that revenge? Did she stab the milor? did she poison
his wife?’
‘Neither the one nor the other. As one of the
household—as its mistress as it were for the time
being—she saw how she could revenge herself in a better
way.’
‘Revenge! Ah, that is sinful, I fear,’ said
the priest. ‘“Vengeance is mine, saith the
Lord.” Hear David, “O Lord, to whom vengeance
belongeth, show Thyself.” Ah, it may be sweet for a
time,’ said the priest, as he shook his head.
‘Holy father,’ replied the lady, ‘you are
right, as you always are. We women have not men’s
heads, we have only hearts, and those hearts often fill us with
bad passions.’
‘I fear that is too true,’ said the priest.
‘But pray proceed with your narrative.’
‘Well, her plans were artfully laid. The servants
were her creatures. The medical man was her dupe. She
had sole command of the mansion. The poor dying wife had begged her
to take the trouble off her hands. Milor fancied she was
his slave; he in reality was her dupe. She made him believe
that his child was dead. She did more, she paid some women
to take care of a child which she pretended, with strict
injunctions to secrecy, was the heir. Gold did it
all. At that time the lady had plenty of gold.’
‘Which might have been better spent in the service of
the Holy Catholic Church, which needs the treasures of the
faithful, and gives them interest for the money, which will yield
rich fruit through the countless ages of eternity.’
‘Ah, my friend did not think of such things. She
was in the world and of it. There, in that island of
heretics, she had given up her religious observances, and had
almost lost her religious faith. Oh, how much better it is
for the woman to stop in the land where the poetry of youth
ripens and matures, till in her old age she has all the ardour
and the blessedness of a devotee.’
‘You speak truly and well,’ said the priest, with
an approving smile; and though he did not often smile, his smile,
when it did appear on his marble face, was encouraging.
‘My father,’ said the penitent, weeping, ‘I
can keep up the deception no longer—I speak of
myself!’
‘I thought as much,’ he replied. ‘I am
afraid you have done a great wrong. But what has become of
the child?’
‘I know not; and the father is dead.’
‘Oh,’ said the priest, ‘you should have
brought him to Italy and placed him in the school of the
Monastery of St. Joseph.’
‘Yes, holy father, I ought to have brought him up in the
true faith. I hear his father is dead; I hear they believe
there is no heir; I hear the brother and his family are now in
possession of the estate. I know all about them. They
are of the Low Church school which hates our faith, abuses its
priests, and even the Holy Father—’
‘Hush!’ said the priest, ‘do not sully your
lips with the foolishness and wickedness of these poor
Protestants. I have heard them talk their blasphemies in
Naples, and even at Rome itself. It is the holy
Inquisition that we need to put a stop to such vile
calumnies.’
‘I had my revenge; but I know not what became of the
boy. If we could gain his rights we could make a Catholic
of him. I am no longer a penitent, holy father. I
feel as if I had been a mighty instrument in paving the way for
the return of the true religion to that unhappy land.
Here,’ placing in the priest’s hand a handsome
casket, ‘are the documents which will establish his
claim. You go to London. You will see the lawyer of
the family; he cannot deny the claim. Oh, I feel so
joyful! I’ve gained my revenge! and is it not a
sanctified one, as it is for the good of the Church?’
‘Daughter,’ said the priest, ‘I would fain
say in the language of the Holy Book, “Many daughters have
done well, but thou hast surpassed them all.” Still,
it seems to me so marvellous, I can scarcely understand
it.’
‘The mystery is being cleared up. I saw an English
actress in the street yesterday, who I believe can help us in the
matter. But in the meanwhile let us see these
documents. We shall have done a great work for the Church
if we can take these documents, find the child, establish his
claims in a court of law, and secure him as a true son of the
Church. Ah, that will be grand!’ said the Countess
joyfully. ‘I gain a son for the Church.’
‘Heaven will reward you, daughter,’ said the
priest; ‘but hasten and fetch the casket.’
The Countess left the room to find it. In a little while
she returned with it in her hands.
‘There it is,’ said she, as she handed it to the
priest.
‘What a lovely casket!’ said the priest.
‘Ah, one thinks of what it contains,’ said the
lady; ‘a title—an estate—a life, which will all
be handed over to the Church.’
With a trembling hand the priest opened it; the Countess in an
equally excited state looking on.
In the casket was an official-looking wrapper.
‘It is all right,’ said the Countess;
‘break the seal and master its contents.’
‘All in good time,’ said the priest.
‘Don’t agitate yourself; be calm.’
‘I am,’ said the Countess; ‘but delay
not. Secure the prize; the hour has come.’
Suddenly the priest turned red and white. ‘In the
name of the Holy Father,’ he said, ‘what have we
here?’
‘Why, documents of the highest importance.’
‘Nothing of the kind,’ exclaimed the priest in a
rage. ‘Nothing but an old English newspaper,’
as he threw it on the ground, with something that sounded like a
rather expressive Italian oath.
The lady shrieked and nearly fainted away, only she thought
better of it. The situation, it occurred to her, would be
neither interesting nor picturesque. Alas! she had no help
for it. That English maid-servant, of whom she fancied she
had made a dupe, was more than a match for her after all, and had
tampered with the documents she had carefully sealed and
religiously guarded these many years.
All she could do was weep, and weep she did, till she nearly
wept herself to death, failing of her long-treasured scheme of
revenge. Of her servant she had lost all trace. To
find her was out of the question; her only hope was in Miss
Howard.
But they never met. The Countess and the priest could do
nothing; and Rose and her husband soon tired of the fruitless
search and returned, to remember in after years the delights of
the Bay of Naples—‘the most beautiful spot in the
world,’ writes George Eliot. Everything takes us back
to the past. It was in the bay that pious Æneas
landed. Caligula, and Nero, and Tiberius, all loved the
spot. The grotto of the Sybil was near, too; the tomb of
Virgil is yet shown in that neighbourhood. Capua, famed for
its luxury and ease, was not far off. No wonder the world
flocks to the Bay of Naples. I stay at the Hotel de Vesuve,
kept by Mr. Mella, well-known to English members of the Coaching
Club, and where I find excellent accommodation. And he
tells me 80,000 visitors pass through his hotel in the course of
a year. It is a classical education to stop in Naples for a
while. I love it best in the summer, when you can revel on
green figs, and apricots, and peaches, and oranges for a
song. In the winter there are fogs and snow at times.
But there is this drawback in the summer, and that is its intense
heat, which drives everyone away. From the deck of the
steamer the view is charming, as Naples with its terraces, and
castles, and hills rises before you; and at night, when all is
still, and the gas-lamps glitter all round the bay for miles, it
looks like fairyland.
In Naples itself there is little to see, with the exception of
the museum, which, when Garibaldi was Dictator, was thrown open
to the public, and in which some, or rather all, the most
precious works of art discovered in Pompeii are preserved.
It is not enough to go to Pompeii—you must visit the museum
in Naples as well. But the brasses and the marbles in the
museum are especially fine, such as the Farnese Bull, and the
Farnese Hercules, and the Roman Emperors. In the churches
there is little to see, and nothing to admire. There are
showy shops in the Toledo, and at the end, as you enter, an
arcade as handsome as is to be found anywhere in Europe.
There are good public gardens where you may hear excellent music
on a summer night, and no city has better tramcars, and more
civil drivers and conductors. I have no fault to find with
the cabs, except that their drivers never leave you alone, and
lie in wait for you at your going out and coming in. It is
in its crowded and bustling streets that the charm of Naples
consists. Surely there never was a people who lived so much
in the open air, and drank so much water flavoured with
lemon. The Neapolitans are a sober people, and industrious
as well. They are fearfully taxed, and, with their scanty
wages, how they manage to make both ends meet is a mystery.
They are much given to sleep in the summertime anywhere, on the
broad street or the sea-wall; and of a Sunday afternoon
they are much given to crowd into some rickety old cart, and tear
along as fast and far as the horse can go.
There is very little beauty among the common people, and you
have plenty of scope for observation, as women dress their back
hair in the broad streets, and the babies are washed in the same
public manner. Nor can you wonder that this is so, as you
contemplate the dingy streets and high houses, divided by narrow
lanes, just like Yarmouth Rows, where no fresh air can enter, no
ray of sunlight can shine. What strikes a stranger
especially is the awful noise. There is an everlasting
clatter of wheels and cracking of whips, and braying of
donkeys—and in Naples they bray louder than anywhere else;
and how the hawkers shout! and they are numerous, and seem to
supply everyone. It is amusing to see them transacting
business. The customer is high up in the balcony, suspended
in mid air. She needs a bit of fish, and she lets down a
basket to the hawker below. That gives rise to a
good deal of talk, as the Neapolitans are a much-gesticulating
people. If a bargain is struck, the basket is hauled up
with the fish inside.
An old French writer complained of the English people that
they were very ignorant, as they never spoke French. In a
similar spirit the ignorance of the Neapolitans struck me.
None of them could speak a word of English.
There are others who call it the City of Flowers. This
is nothing but a mistake. But the cactus grows everywhere,
and thus, wherever you go—on the rail, or by the villa, or
the flat-roomed cabin where the poor peasant lives—you have
a good display of green; and in the public gardens the palm-tree
grows luxuriantly, and you are reminded of the tropics at every
step; and thus the hot hours glide peacefully on, while the
retailers of lemon and water do a roaring trade, and the ragged
who have no money curl themselves in the dark arches, met with at
every corner, and sleep the sleep of the just. All Naples
is asleep in the middle of the day, and even the policeman
nods. Happily he has little to do, as, ignorant and
priest-ridden as the people may be, they never get drunk.
At night the city is gay, as families, old and young, rush off to
the music-hall, or to hear the bands play, or to navigate the
peaceful waters by the light of Chinese lanterns. I suppose
they fancy they cool themselves. The fact is, Naples is
always hot in summer. All day long the burning sun bakes up
the streets and the shops, and the old bits of rocks, all built
over; and the heat seems to me to radiate from them all night
long. If it were not for the tramcars, which are numerous
and cheap, and the conductors of which are uncommonly civil and
well-behaved, locomotion would be impossible. There are no
flags more trying than those of Naples, and as the cabs drive all
over the road you are never safe. People who are deaf, who
are old and infirm, are in constant danger, in spite of the
thundering crack of the cabman’s whip, or the ear-splitting
note of
the conductor’s horn. Motion seems to begin about
five, and still the tumult rages as I retire to rest.
After all, the chief fault I find with the people is the way
they work their horses and donkeys. The latter, at any
rate, have a hard time of it, as they drag the heavy load on a
cart of two long poles with beams laid across of the most
primitive order. I fancy the old country cart remains as it
was in the time of the Romans. Sometimes a horse or mule or
bullock is harnessed on one side; but the patient ass, who does
the chief of the work, no one seems to pity.
On a hot day it also stirs my indignation to see a horse
dragging a cart with fourteen or fifteen strapping men inside,
and on a Sunday everyone seems to drive, and as fast as he
can. The swell and the costermonger all tear along at a
frightful pace, and thus secure—what in England some good
people are trying to insure—a pleasant Sunday
afternoon.