All girls want a good complexion and a
clear skin. The skin and hair are the glories
of a healthy woman. Most of you can have
this desired state of a clear skin and pure complexion.
A good complexion merely means a
perfect state of health. A clear skin does not
depend on what you apply to it, but what you
keep off it.
The clear, satin-like skin, the skin which
looks like a transparent piece of silk laid upon
a soft cushion of white flesh, and that sheeny
skin resembling fine velvet, seen in the pure
blonde type of girls, are all the effects of the
blood beneath and how that blood is treated
by the emotions.
Muddy and contaminating thoughts will
cause a muddy skin. Clean and clear thoughts
will give you a clear skin. Jealousy and anger
will, in time, affect the flow of blood through
your tiny skin-veins and give you the appearance
of age. Any emotion which causes indigestion
will do the same thing. In fact, the
state of mind and the manner in which you
control your thoughts and temper are reflected
in the tone of the skin.
It is during the first few years of menstruating
that the girl who does not understand these
matters commences to ruin her complexion.
While your body is developing, the tiny glands
in the skin are undergoing great changes.
These changes cause the glands to pour out
oily matter, perspiration and other material, all
of which naturally bring about a muddy complexion
in some girls and redness of the nose,
or pimples on the face, in others.
These conditions are natural to the growing
girl. The skin is clearing itself of all the little
girl’s activities and making ready for the
woman’s complexion. It is Springtime with
the skin, and this dirt—or what looks like dirt—is
the result of all this skin-cleaning. Hair is
appearing on certain parts of the body; that
almost invisible down which all women possess,
is growing on all portions of the body and
face. The monthly periods are causing congested
blood vessels throughout the whole body and
especially the tiny arteries of the skin. Every
part of your system is really undergoing a great
change and does not get into a state of perfect
health until you are eighteen years of age
and over. As in all things in which a decided
revolution takes place, there is more or less
of a disturbance.
This is the time when a girl commences to
worry about her complexion. She frets and
becomes anxious about the little spots appearing
upon her face. If she has not the proper
home advice, but hears all sorts of tales and
sees all sorts of things in the school or shop,
she soon resorts to the drug stores for a face
lotion, powder or cream. She may have been
told by an older girl that, “No, I never had
anything but a good complexion; you’d better
take something for yours, I would,” and much
more of this kind of foolish advice.
Some girls go through the period of development
without any marked change in their complexion;
others, especially brunettes, will have
a “broken-out-face,” a hot and oily skin and
not infrequently pimples on some part of their
bodies. Girls of nervous temperament are apt
to have more or less of a spotted complexion
during the first few years of menstruation. In
all these girls it is more of a sign of good
health than otherwise, and if the skin had been
left alone,—which it has not, because you have
never known the truth,—the quack advertisements
of “face creams,” “skin food,” “complexion
wafers,” and all the other skin poisons
and complexion-destroyers, would never have
been put out to swindle girls and women.
Pimples most frequently show on the shoulders
and upper arms, and unless the girl knows
that these really mean a splendid complexion
when she has grown to full womanhood, she
worries herself to a point that makes her little
life miserable.
This is the point in a girl’s life where she
starts in to ruin her complexion forever. She
commences to fill in the openings made to let
out the fatty and other substances in her skin,
by powdering, applying some ointment which
keeps these pores closed, or goes to bed with
greasy or other injurious “skin foods” upon
her face. In fact, she does just what in the
end will give her a pasty complexion instead
of a clear one. Of course she will later on
take to the rouge and powder puffs and have
to keep them in constant use until her skin becomes
like that of a dried codfish.
Please remember that what you need during
the first years of your menstrual life is to allow
full freedom for the skin to get rid of all the
material your state is producing behind the
outer skin. This material must come away if
the skin is to be a clear and healthy one.
Banking up, stopping this sweating process of
the glands of the body, will ruin your complexion
in time. You would not attempt to
clean a room by sweeping all the dust under
the carpet and not expect this dust to be always
flying up and making the room dusty and ill-smelling?
But you do about the same thing
when you do not let all the dirt and dust come
away through the spring cleaning of the skin.
The period of your development is the
Springtime of your life, and you must expect
all kinds of disagreeable feelings and little
annoyances to occur during this period.
Each month, just as your menses are coming
on, you will find little pimples or some redness
on your face, nose or shoulders; perhaps on the
arms. You should not want to go to dances
or entertainments at these times; in fact you
should not; but at no time during your growth
into full womanhood should you wear gowns
with short sleeves and low necks. For even
between the menstrual periods there will be
some indications upon the face or skin which
tell the story. To hide these little eruptions
or redness of the skin you have to apply powder
to the neck, shoulders and arms. What are
the consequences? The perspiration, due to the
heat of the room and the exercise of dancing,
keeps the inflammation active under the powder
and may cause such pimples that the scars
are left forever.
And right here is where you “catch cold.”
Drafts, sleeping by an open window or going
from a warm room to a colder one do not give
you a cold. You may catch cold by doing these
things, but the cause is something which has
brought about a too rapid loss of heat from
the body; such as any wrong way of clothing or
underclothing yourself; low-neck dresses for
winter; or covering the skin with powder or
enamel, through which the perspiration cannot
have free play and keep the temperature
of the body equal; these are the reasons you
“catch cold.”
Those girls you occasionally see with a pitted
skin on their faces and shoulders, are those who
in all probability prevented the natural grease
and other substances from getting out when
they were in the first two or three years of their
development. They have generally brought
about this disagreeable complexion by attempting
to dress as full-grown women and covering
face, shoulders and backs with some kind of
lotion, powder or cream.
The girl who was noted for her fine, soft
and smooth skin when she was eight or ten
years of age, commences at puberty to have
pimples and blackheads on her nose, cheeks
and forehead. This being about the time she
takes more notice of herself and others around
her, these little facial blotches worry her. It
is the opening of a new life and much attention
is given dress, hair and complexion; to
her whole appearance. She brushes and fixes
her hair with great care; tries all sorts of experiments.
She probably uses the brush of her
older sister or one belonging to some of her
family, or more frequently it is the common one
at school or in the store. She does not intentionally
use a dirty brush, nor will she use one
which she has the least suspicion has been used
by the unclean. But even the brush of her
mother or sister carries germs that at this time
do much injury to her skin and scalp, because
the skin of the forehead is affected by the germs
which get to the scalp.
This germ is one which is always to be found
in the glands of any person’s scalp or hairy
portions of the body. These glands are known
as the sebaceous glands. They are the ones
which secrete the oily substance that is necessary
for the health of the skin and hair. You
have enough of the oily substances in your own
hair and skin, and it is usually free from germs
at this time if you have used only YOUR
OWN BRUSH. But the moment you use a
brush belonging to some older and full-grown
woman you carry to your own scalp these germs.
If some of the other germs which are sometimes
found upon common brushes get onto
your scalp, there is another trouble for you to
combat—dandruff. In the first case you
simply add oily stuff to your own supply, get
over-much of the oil; in the other case, dandruff
is piled thick with the fatty material and
then comes scalp disease.
This may go on for some time and not
noticeably affect you, but it may cause in a few
weeks a certain form of eczema about the forehead
and even the face. This is a very important
matter for all girls and young women
to remember. I have shown you that on the
approach and for some time after puberty,
all the tiny glands of the skin are enlarged
and very active, so you can now see that there
are hundreds of thousands of little holes for the
germs to get into, and they do so from the
brushes you are in the habit of using—that is,
most of you. When these germs have located
themselves upon the scalp, they soon commence
to show the fact by giving you a muddy complexion.
Sometimes you will be accused of not
thoroughly washing your face, so marked is
the line around your forehead and neck made
by the attack of these germs. When the openings
of the glands begin to gape, the effect is
not agreeable to you nor to your friends.
The pimples commence to irritate you on
account of the increase of the oily substance,
and soon you see that little creamy spot, then
you or a misguided friend will squeeze it out.
Often before this harmful procedure is gone
through with, a formation of a little cocoon-like
body is formed and then you have blackheads.
This is not all dirt as is generally
supposed, but a little cylinder filled with fatty
stuff, water and some dirt from the skin. If
these blackheads keep coming and if you go on
squeezing them, if you insist upon covering the
pimples with powder or lotion, a real skin
disease will be the result. This skin disease we
call acne, and it is a difficult and trying one
to cure. Never mind all those fetching advertisements
in the papers which claim to cure
acne in a few applications. Don’t touch such
harmful stuff. All these advertised lotions simply
COVER UP the symptoms of the disease,
drive it further into the skin, and when
you finally have to go to a reputable doctor,
too much harm has been done for him to save
you from being marked for life. Never trifle
with advertised cures, go to a well-known
doctor, or if you cannot afford to pay a
specialist’s price, seek one at the outdoor
clinics. There you will receive the same
kind and careful treatment you would if
you went to his office in an automobile of
your own.
What are we to do to keep from having
all these disagreeable pimples and their after-effects?
Prevent them. You understand; not
cure, but prevention; for I want to put you
all in a position to keep from having any
trouble which needs a CURE in the medical
sense.
The first thing to do is to look out for your
scalp as soon as you recognize the approach of
puberty and for ever after. I do not mean
that even a little girl should ever have her
scalp neglected, but that you must, as soon as
your menstrual time comes, NEVER use any
other brush than your own and this must be a
new one. No matter how old you are, get a
new brush every few months and guard it as
you would your jewels or your most precious
gift. You should consider a brush for the hair
as sacred as the one for your teeth. You
surely would not think of brushing your teeth
with any old toothbrush which happened to
come along; neither should you use any other
hairbrush but your own.
And all this is such a simple matter, for
whatever you do, wherever you go, whether you
attend school, work in an office or store, you
can easily carry with you your own hairbrush
as you do your own toothbrush. Of course
the same rule applies to comb, soap and
towel.
The habit some girls have of brushing and
combing each other’s hair is all very well if
only your brush is used upon your hair, and
only upon your hair. As a rule girls take one
brush and go over each other’s scalps, thereby
contaminating all the scalps; carrying oily
matter from head to head. The scalp of a
blonde-haired girl is not kept in good condition
by the same quality or amount of secretions
that a brunette requires; a woman’s scalp
that has been neglected will carry to a young
woman’s sensitive skin germs which will affect
her scalp and complexion, but would not probably
affect a middle-aged person. So let no
person use your brush and allow no other
person’s brush used upon you.
The habit of promiscuously kissing each
other that some girls at this age of puberty so
often have, is a dangerous habit, because you
may have placed upon your lips some of the
germs which cause pimples, and then comes
trouble again. Anyway, a girl is too young
to be kissed and not old enough to kiss—without
danger to herself.
There are many, many more little things
which cause a poor complexion in the girl and
grown woman. First of all is that curse of
American girls and women—constipation—the
result of our false and injurious prudery. I
warned you we should have to refer to it
again and again, for it is a condition that
enters into the cause of many women’s illnesses,
indispositions, tumors, open sores, headaches
and other avoidable troubles.
Allowing any of the cast-off material of the
stomach and intestines to remain in the lower
bowel will most positively cause a muddy and
pimpled skin. The reason is plain. This
material is dead stuff meant to be cast off
out of the body EVERY day. If it remains
in the body it putrefies, forms gases and acids,
which are REabsorbed into your system, taken
up by the blood, which later on shows it in
your face. Just think of it! Would you
like to go around with all the signs of putrid
matter being kept in your body? Of course
not; yet you will outwardly show these signs
if you do not keep your lower bowels always
cleaned.
What is the best way to keep the bowels
clean?
Regularity in your habits of toilet is, first of
all, the most important factor. Drinking plenty
of water—you see I am at it again—in the
morning, is next in importance. Your breakfast
food can be so arranged that the bowels will
empty themselves every morning if the habit
and water drinking have been carefully looked
after. Fruit, stewed or ripe, should be taken
every morning. Little or no meat is needed
nor advisable for you in the morning. Cereals—real
cereals, not the sawdust and roasted
bread crust stuff—are good for the morning
meal. Plain, old-fashioned oatmeal comes first,
then hominy or similar cereals.
The idea that buckwheat or other breakfast
cakes cause pimples is all nonsense. The same
is true about syrups, butter or sugar. If you
have flushed your stomach and intestines with
water and fruit, you may eat all the cakes
and sugar you wish. Candy does not affect
your complexion, neither do cakes, pie, nor any
sweets which ARE PURE AND EATEN
AT THE PROPER TIME.
All our grandmothers’ scare and advice about
eating candy and other sweets is due to the
fact that they DO harm in this way. Candy
and other sweets are too often eaten between
meals or early in the morning and thus cause
a lack of appetite. With this loss of appetite,
the body cannot get its nourishing and bowel-cleansing
food. It is the loss of this nourishing
food and the natural result of having nothing
in the intestines which will wash these food
tracts out, that does all the harm. It is living
unnaturally to be in such a condition, and any
unnatural way of living will bring about unhealth,
and this will be shown by a poor and
nasty-looking complexion, a hot skin and flabby
flesh.
Young women and girls often need sugar
in their system and at certain times will
crave it. Other girls will crave something
sour—pickles, for instance. EAT PICKLES
AND CANDY IF YOU CRAVE THEM.
But do not forget that first you must have had
a breakfast free from these substances, have
thoroughly emptied your bowels and had a
good noon meal. After these good meals you
may eat candy, pickles, ice cream, any old
thing—IF THE MATERIALS ARE
PURE. This is a very important matter.
Eat nothing that has been exposed to the dust
of the streets or any filthy place. We shall
have something to say about “dope” drops
and candies in which are brandies, cocaine and
other drugs.
The girl who goes out at noon and buys for
her luncheon éclaires, doughnuts, cream puffs
and other pastry, and makes a meal of this
stuff, is positively going to have a pasty complexion,
be constantly constipated and unable
to do her full amount of work—school, house
or office. If she has taken some good soup
and eaten a little nourishing food, THEN the
pastry will not harm her; perhaps do her
good.
I have said nothing about eggs or fish. I
think most of you are glad of it and know the
reason. I have had thousands of girls and
young women under my charge and but few of
them could eat either eggs or fish; and to many,
milk was positively repulsive. At certain times
these kinds of foods are nauseating to many
girls and young women. Now and then a
young woman will take an egg or a few bites
of fish, but all through the active portion of
her life she abhors a diet of such eatables. It
is a case of—
Jack Spratt could eat no pie,
His wife could eat no fish;
So betwixt them both
Each had a separate dish.
Do not force yourself to eat anything that
you do not enjoy. In good health the body
will know what it needs. If it needs sugar, it
will give you a craving for sugar; if you need
beef, you will want it. The cravings for
sweets or sours only become unnatural when
they are eaten to the exclusion of nourishing
food. If you have the HABIT of eating
sweets in the morning, you must break this
habit. You got into the habit because you gave
in to a natural desire at an unnatural time.
If you are hungry before going to bed, then
you will benefit by taking some nourishing and
easily-digested food. Eating at night will
NOT injure your complexion. It is eating
indigestible food which ruins the complexion,
and before bedtime you are too apt to eat those
foods which lie all night in your stomach and
ferment there. This is a sure and quick way
to bring on a muddy complexion and a red
nose.
Never drink milk with beef, pork or ham.
But I do not fear this tough combination in
girls or women, only it is best that you should
know that such a combination will remain all
night in your stomach and let you know it
for a few days afterwards.
I know that the majority of girls and women
who are out in the selfish world, including
schoolgirls, do not fully realize the great importance
of proper food eaten at the proper
time, that is, the bearing it has upon all their
growing powers. If they did, we should not
have all these patent medicines for skin, womb,
stomach, headaches, and all the other doped stuff,
which is ruining hundreds of thousands of those
who ought to be the mothers of the future generation.
I say ought to be, because unless you
girls take hold at once and absorb these facts
I have been telling you, and shall tell you,
many, yes, most of you, will weep throughout
a childless life.
What shall I apply to my face?
Nothing but water and pure soap.
Does not washing the face in water, hot or
cold, bring on wrinkles?
No, never. Did you ever see wrinkles upon
your canary bird? Don’t you have a bath
ready for her every morning? What made the
Greek and Roman maidens so beautiful in face,
figure and complexion? Baths, bathing their
bodies and faces daily.
But they used facial ointments, powders and
creams. No, not the pure maidens or matrons;
only the other kind.
If a woman, when young, was foolish or
ignorant enough to use powder or grease upon
her face and kept it up, when she gets to be
thirty-five or so, she has to resort to enameling
her face. If now she allowed her face to be
thoroughly washed by either cold or warm
water, she would have wrinkles, big, deep ones.
She, of course, does not believe in water on
the face and will tell you so; she has her
reason. And the reason is this: For years
she has been maltreating her skin by stopping
the natural oil from leaving the skin glands.
As time went on she has applied the necessary
powder—necessary to her—then had to use
some form of facial cream, increasing the amount
year by year. There has been no opportunity
for the skin to stretch or relax, to work out
its secretions, it remains almost immovable;
consequently ridges and furrows form, and a
good wash brings out the wrinkles and also
her secret.
There is no harm in having the face massaged
when you are tired, dusty and your skin feels
tightly stretched. But having it gently rubbed
and washed with cold water, then protected
by a veil as you go out into the fresh air, is
an entirely different matter from having it
rubbed by one who fills in the open pores with
a “facial cream” or some “beautifier.” There
is only one beautifier, and that is GOOD
HEALTH. And once you get it you do not
have to apply it every day. It will stand the
rain and the sun, will defy heat and salt sprays,
will be always by your side wherever you go
and not put you in the awful condition of a
well-known professional beauty I once knew.
This woman was traveling and became ill.
I was sent for, but when I arrived I was told
by the maid that Madame could not see me
at that hour. Now the case was important;
the woman was suffering and in danger. Never
mind, she simply COULD NOT see me for several
hours. She went into a delirium and was
finally taken to a hospital for mental invalids.
Why wouldn’t she see me? Because her fine
and notorious complexion had been left behind,
and as the suffering from her pain had caused
her to freely perspire, the perspiration had
opened up all her wrinkles and furrows.
Unless the skin of the whole body is freely
washed, the neglect will show on the complexion.
A bath every morning is the secret of
many bright and rosy cheeks. If you are so
situated that you cannot get a tub bath every
morning, winter and summer, you certainly
can get a big sponge and have a sponge bath
in your room. Let the water run down your
spine, especially down the small of your back.
Give your face a good dose of cold water. A
shower on the face will keep wrinkles away
until late in life. Do not stop your bathing
because you are unwell, only use warm or tepid
water. I know that many girls are told not
to even put their hands in cold water while
menstruating. This is utter nonsense, if the
girl is otherwise in good health. These old
ideas have done much harm and kept girls from
benefiting themselves by helping Nature in all
her growths.
Cold baths will keep your flesh firm and hard;
will take off fat if you are too fat, and put on
flesh if you are too lean. Like everything in
nature, the improvement comes slowly, but it
certainly comes. You should commence the
baths in the summer and keep them up so that
when the cold weather comes the change is not
very noticeable. Of course all this should be done
in a warm room and you should have a warm
rug to stand upon. Be sure to take a good
rub with a coarse towel.
This brings us to some simple form of exercise
you can do at this time which will help
the bowels to empty themselves by toning the
muscles of the abdomen—the stomach, you
call it.
These exercises consist in bending the body
from your waist several times, then swinging
from side to side. You do this with your feet
close together and with straightened knees.
Bend forwards and downwards, touching the
floor with the tips of your fingers without bending
the knees. Keep it up until you can
do it without effort. Then swing your body
from side to side, twisting and turning from
the hips. Nothing will give you a more graceful
figure than these forms of movements. Keep
up this exercise all through your active life, and
with all the other advice I have and shall give
you, you can be attractive even when the gray
hairs have made their appearance.
It is not the purpose of these Chats to advise
you in purely medical matters, that is to tell
you what to do in illness and what medicines
to take. The purpose of these talks is to put
you in possession of knowledge that will bring
you to full womanhood, a strong, healthy woman
to whom marriage and children will be a state
of happiness for both husband and wife, or to
a state of content, if you choose “single
blessedness.” But in the matter of constipation,
I think it will do no harm to tell you
that, if you will take once a week a tablespoonful
of SODIUM PHOSPHATE, you
will be benefited. This sodium phosphate
should be taken before breakfast in a full glass
of water.
What about thin hair, split hairs, that dead-feeling
hair?
If this condition is found in the young
woman, it is ninety-nine times out of a hundred
her own fault, or due to her ignorance of what
the scalp and hair need.
It is because she has piled a lot of dead
and often diseased hair on top of her healthy
and growing hair. Put a bunch of dead matter
upon live and growing matter and what is the
result? Death, decay!
Most of the fashions in hair and dress originate
in those whose lives and age compel some
artificial aid to attract attention. These foolish
and freakish fashions are not for the young
woman to adopt. Take the fashion of long
trains, for example. The women of Paris
seldom walk, they go about in automobiles or
carriages. Now, sitting in these open conveyances
it attracts attention to have a long
folding train wrapped around the sitting figure
and pulled up at the ankles to show a dainty
slipper and silken hosiery. Don’t you see how
ridiculous it is for a good young woman who
has to walk to her daily work or school, to try
to copy a fashion which is intended for an
entirely different class of women? Yet, when
trains were the fashion, you all did it.
You are doing about the same foolish thing
now with your head. Head-gear—that is the
best name for it—is intended for women whose
age has depleted them of much hair or whose
lives have been such that their hair has become
dead through bleaching or other injurious processes—these
women must repair the damage.
Wigs are too evident, so these women buy the
hair which once graced or disgraced some other
women, and pile it up in freakish forms and
call it the latest fashion. The American girl
and young woman immediately follow “the
fashion,” and then you ask me what to do for
thin hair and dead tresses!
Now, if you keep up this heathenish fashion
of ruining your own beautiful hair, many of
you will not only have thin hair, but become
BALDHEADED. False hair, such as
“puffs,” “rats,” frames, pads, “transformations,”
“pin curls” and “mouse-traps,” will do
the trick for you. Even the artificial means
used to puff out the natural hair will ultimately
injure it—injure it beyond repair.
All the false hair with the appliances to keep
it in shape, press on the scalp and impede the
circulation of the blood, and the part of the
scalp it should supply will wither and lose all
life. The result of any pressure on the blood
vessels of the scalp is that the roots of the
hair become impoverished, and in time the
hair gets so thin and weak that it drops out.
Very little, if any, air can get to the scalp
when you are “following the fashion,” which
is just now in vogue. Stop this injurious and
ridiculous wearing of false puffs, pads, and
especially “transformations.”
I have seen schoolgirls and typists with
enough rigging of false hair and rusty wires
upon their heads to give a strong man a constant
headache and make him bald in a month.
Your hair also falls out rapidly and constantly,
but as you are blessed at the start
with more luxuriant and more active growth
in the scalp, it takes longer for the injury
to show. But it is only a matter of time,
not effect.
Then there is another matter which you do
not fully realize—all good and worthy men
detest this ill-smelling and dead hair you pile
upon your heads. You lose all your fresh appearance,
all the looks of a maiden, all the
proofs of innocence. Your complexion takes
on the hue of the dead hair, and when the
fashion passes you can never get back the
shining, luxuriant tresses men so dearly admire.
Men and youths may not have told you these
truths, but way down in their hearts they will
pick a girl for a wife or sweetheart who has
not the smell of a dead Chinaman, or whose
hair has been the abiding place for an old
“mouse-trap” and left the mousy odors.
The best way to insure a good head of hair
is to wear it loose and free, without any artificial
aids and appliances. Of course you may dress
it any way it pleases you, but aside from pins
it should never have any other pressure upon it.
The hair should be washed frequently in water
with a little powdered borax, but remember you
wash the hair only to clean the scalp, nothing
should be applied to the hair directly.
There is another fashion which has made many
a girl suffer from headaches, thinned her hair
and injured her complexion. This is the wearing
of tight collars, neck bands, and those torturing
things with points you wear stuck right
up under the ears. I forget now what you call
them, and I won’t tell you what I call them,
for it would not sound nice to polite ears.
But if you keep on wearing them a man
will be able to say almost anything without
you being able to hear him; for you will be
deaf.
The reason these tight collars do so much injury
is that they compress the arteries and veins
of the neck, which at this part of the body are
near the surface. They are large, full-blooded
vessels and bring the blood to and return it from
brain and scalp. I have known girls to faint
simply from the compression due to tight collars
or bands around the neck. They will almost
invariably cause headaches, and every one of
you know of the great relief you derive from
taking them off and putting on a loose wrap
or dressing sack. I have known women to
suffer violent pains in the head, then dizziness
and final collapse, by preventing a free circulation
through the brain. The same blood vessels
supply the skin, and when these are stopped
from nourishing the skin what do you get?
A poor, pale and finally diseased skin, a starved
face.