Situation—Altitude—Geology—Roman
Baths—Climate and Temperature—Death
Rate—Water-Supply—Rainfall—Drainage—Railway
Communication—Public Buildings—Devonshire Hospital
and Buxton Bath Charity—Visitors’
Accommodation—Antiquarian.
The ancient town of Buxton, which is situated upon the extreme
western boundary of the county of Derby, at an elevation of
1,000ft. above the sea level, lies in a deep basin, having a
subsoil of limestone and millstone grit, and is environed on
every side by some of the most romantic and picturesque scenery
in the High Peak, hill rising above hill in wild confusion, some
attaining an altitude of from 1,900ft. to 2,000ft.
Buxton, or, as originally called, Bawkestanes, was occupied as
a military station by the Romans, who, during their occupancy,
constructed baths over the tepid water springs which issue
through fissures in the limestone rock, where it comes in contact
with the millstone grit, as was proved beyond
doubt by the finding of Roman tiles (used in the construction of
their baths) some years ago, when the present baths were under
repair.
Although Buxton is situated at so great an altitude, the mean
temperature for years past (owing, no doubt, in a great measure,
to the taste displayed and forethought shown by the late Mr.
Heacock, agent for many years to his Grace the Duke of
Devonshire, in causing the surrounding hills to be well planted)
has averaged about 44° Fahr., only a few degrees below that
of some of the most frequented winter resorts in Great
Britain. Such a temperature, however, may appear to some to
militate against Buxton as a health resort except during the
summer months, but it must be borne in mind that although the
temperature may be said to be somewhat low (a necessity of its
altitude), yet the atmosphere is especially pure and dry, and,
like that of Davos Platz, plays no inconsiderable part in
conducing to the highly-sanitary condition of the
neighbourhood.
The healthiness of the Buxton district is borne out by
the fact that the death-rate from zymotic disease is lower than
that of most other localities in Great Britain, and that the
average annual death-rate from all forms of disease is only
(among the resident population) 10 in 1,000.
The air being so pure and dry exerts a most bracing and tonic
effect, especially in cases where the system has become
debilitated from any cause—anæmia, chlorosis, chronic
liver and splenic disease, many forms of bronchial asthma, the
first stage of tuberculosis of the lungs, and tubercular
degeneration of the mesenteric glands in childhood, I have seen
much benefitted by a short residence in the district. To
the closely-confined and overworked residents in towns the
crispness and buoyancy of the atmosphere impart a feeling of
lightness and exhilaration rarely experienced except in a
highland district, making mental and physical labour less irksome
and life more enjoyable.
The water supply of Buxton is abundant, soft, and free from
impurities, doubtless owing to its percolating
through the great filter bed of sandstone to the north of the
town, and issues in numerous springs far above any source of
contamination from the inhabitants in the valley below.
It has been stated (and I think much to the prejudice of
Buxton) that the rainfall of the High Peak, and especially of the
Buxton district, is generally in excess of that of most of the
other parts of Great Britain. Such an assertion is quite
incorrect, as may be ascertained by a careful examination of the
rainfall of other localities; although, as in all hilly
districts, we must, on account of the attraction of the hills,
expect a somewhat larger rainfall than on the plains. The
annual average fall in the neighbourhood of Buxton amounts to
about forty-nine inches, which is much less than that of many
localities both in the Northern and Midland Counties. Even
when there is an exceptionally heavy fall of rain the porous
nature of the subsoil precludes the possibility of an
accumulation of surface water to any great extent.
The following table shows the mean temperature and
rainfall for 1890 and 1891, two years in which we have
experienced a lower temperature and a greater rainfall than for
some years past, which, I believe, has been the experience of
most other parts of Britain during the same period:—
|
Mean
Temperature.
|
Rainfall.
|
|
1890.
Deg.
|
1891.
Deg.
|
1890.
inch.
|
1891.
inch.
|
January
|
37.6
|
31.7
|
6.91
|
4.58
|
February
|
33.1
|
38.9
|
.945
|
.68
|
March
|
40.0
|
36.0
|
4.995
|
3.895
|
April
|
41.1
|
38.9
|
1.635
|
3.40
|
May
|
50.2
|
45.8
|
3.21
|
4.935
|
June
|
52.4
|
53.3
|
4.685
|
2.878
|
July
|
54.7
|
56.3
|
4.78
|
2.52
|
August
|
55.2
|
55.0
|
6.05
|
6.45
|
September
|
56.0
|
54.4
|
1.405
|
3.505
|
October
|
47.2
|
46.0
|
4.20
|
6.595
|
November
|
40.0
|
38.8
|
9.455
|
4.535
|
December
|
27.8
|
37.8
|
1.3
|
8.745
|
Mean temperature for 1890 = 44°.6; mean temperature for
1891 = 44°.4.
Rainfall for 1890 = 49.77in.; rainfall for 1891 =
52.718in.
Buxton being built in a valley inclining to the east, and upon
the slopes of the adjoining hills to the south, west, and north,
necessitates the convergence of its system of drainage into a
main sewer, which is carried through the heart of the
town to its outskirts, where the contents are discharged into
tanks, and purified by a chemical process submitted to the town
authorities by Dr. Thresh.
The natural incline upon which the town is built greatly
facilitated the sewerage arrangements so ably planned and
successfully carried out by the late Sir Robert Rawlinson.
Two lines of railway, the London and North-Western and
Midland, whose stations are situated adjoining each other to the
east end of the town, and between Buxton and Fairfield, afford
every facility of communication with all parts of Great Britain
and Ireland. The station of the East to West Railway now in
process of formation will be in Higher Buxton, and will doubtless
prove of much convenience to residents in that neighbourhood.
Visitors to Buxton, of all classes, will find ample and
suitable accommodation in the numerous hotels, hydros,
boarding-houses, and private apartments.
The Buxton Gardens’ Company’s Pavilion, Music
Hall, and Theatre (where during the season the first artistes are
engaged), lawn tennis, skating rink, golf, cricket, and football
clubs, fishing, shooting, and hunting, provide varied amusements
for all tastes.
Mail coaches and charabancs run daily (Sundays excepted) to
either Bakewell, Haddon, Chatsworth, Matlock, Castleton, or Dove
Dale, during the season. Private conveyances, riding and
driving horses, are procurable by those wishing to visit the
numerous places of interest in the neighbourhood or ride to
hounds.
Buxton possesses some very handsome public and private
buildings. The Crescent, perhaps one of the finest
structures of its kind in Europe, has a frontage of 400ft. and a
height of nearly 70ft., and is massive and bold in design.
Above it is surmounted by an open battlement, which runs the
whole of its length. In its centre the Devonshire coat of
arms stands out in bold relief. Along the base of the
building a wide open colonnade extends from one end to the other,
and is a great convenience in going to and from the Baths and
drinking fountain in wet weather, or as a
promenade. It was originally intended for one hotel, but is
now divided into two. In front is an open semicircular
space, extending to the foot of St. Ann’s Cliff, an
extensive piece of ground, tastefully laid out in terraces and
public walks, some of which lead from terrace to terrace to the
public drinking fountain at the base of the slope, and others to
the plateau above, upon which stands the Town Hall, a handsome
and substantially-built structure, recently erected, containing
public and private offices, magisterial and assembly rooms,
museum, free library, reading-room, &c.
The Devonshire Hospital is a large octagonal building
surmounted by a lofty dome, and is situated at the foot of Corbar
Hill, being a conspicuous object from all parts of the
town. It was originally built for stabling in connection
with the Crescent Hotel. Some years since the committee of
the Buxton Bath Charity, being desirous of providing better
accommodation for those seeking its aid, succeeded, mainly
through the exertions of the late Mr. Wilmot, agent to his Grace
the Duke of Devonshire, in obtaining the
duke’s sanction to its conversion to its present use.
The structural alterations necessitated an outlay of between
£30,000 and £40,000, towards which the committee of
the Lancashire Cotton Fund contributed 24,000, in consideration
of a first claim to the occupancy of 150 beds, the entire
hospital accommodation being 300 beds.
The dome covers an area of nearly half an acre, and is said to
be one of the largest in the world. Under its vast expanse
between 5,000 and 6,000 people can assemble without
overcrowding. A perfect echo, like that in the Baptistry at
Pisa, is heard slightly away from beneath its centre.
The hospital is open to the inspection of visitors from 10
a.m. to 4 p.m. at a small charge, which is appropriated for the
purpose of purchasing books for the library, a great boon to the
crippled patients.
The Palace Hotel, a large and imposing building, stands within
its own grounds, beautifully situated and laid out, close to the
London and North-Western and Midland Railway stations. Being elevated considerably above the
town, a panoramic view of Higher and Lower Buxton, St.
Ann’s Cliff, Broad Walk, the Crescent, and Buxton Gardens
is obtained from its windows, and in the distance Axe Edge,
1,950ft., Harpur Hill, Diamond Hill (so-called from the
Derbyshire diamond being found there), Solomon’s Temple,
and Hindlow are in full view.
There are many other buildings worthy of notice, amongst which
I may mention the churches of St. John and St. James, Pavilion
Music Hall, Theatre, Union Club, the Buxton, Peak, and Haddon
Grove Hydropathic Establishments. As the town is rapidly
extending, many very pretty villas have recently sprung up in the
park and neighbourhood, from whence are obtained the finest views
of Buxton and the surrounding hills.
Buxton is well supplied with places of public worship, St.
John’s, St. James’s, St. Anne’s, and Trinity,
belonging to the Church of England; Hardwick Street Chapel,
Congregationalists; the Park and Market Place Chapels, Wesleyan
Methodists; London Road Chapel, Primitive Methodists;
St. Ann’s Chapel, Terrace Road, Roman Catholic; and
Harrington Road Chapel, Unitarian. The Presbyterians hold
services every Sunday (during the season) in the Town Hall,
morning and evening.
The staple industry of Buxton and the neighbourhood consists
in the burning of limestone, and the manufacture of inlaid marble
vases, tables, &c, some of which are tastefully designed, and
form very elegant and beautiful ornamental decorations for the
drawing-room, &c.
The naturalist, the botanist, and the geologist will find
Nature’s hand-book, spread wide open over the hills and
dales of the Peak, for their inspection. The
archæologist and the antiquarian may wander to the top of
Cowlow, Ladylow, Hindlow, Hucklow, or Grindlow, and picture in
imagination the savage and warlike aborigines of the High Peak,
wending their way up the precipitous sides of the hill, carrying
their dead chieftain to his last resting-place on the mountain
summit, where, placing him in a cyst, made of
rough unhewn stones, they cover him up with earth, leaving his
spirit to find its way to the happy hunting-grounds of the
unseen; or watch the wild and barbarous rites performed by the
Druidical priest within the precincts of Arbor Low Circle; or
contemplate the savage hordes of Danes, as they lie encamped on
the slopes of Priestcliff; or follow the footsteps of a hardy
cohort of Rome’s picked soldiers, as it moves with steady
precision through the High Peak Forest, and ascends the rugged
side of Coomb’s Moss, to pitch a camp on the spur of Castle
Naze.
The antiquarian may take his stand upon Mam-Tor, the mother
rock, when the moon sheds her silvery light o’er Loosehill
Mount, and, carrying his mind back into the past some 230 years,
hear the bugle’s note as it sweeps through the Wynnats
Pass, and is taken up by the Peverel Castle and transmitted
onwards through the Vale of Hope, calling the hardy dalesmen to
their midnight rendezvous, there to be instructed in the science
of war, so as to enable them to protect their homes and families
against the marauding myrmidons of a cruel, heartless,
and unreliable king; or if the antiquarian seeketh a knowledge of
the High Peak folk-lore, and feareth neither pixie or graymarie,
he can, on a spring night, just as the moon has entered her last
quarter, and the first note from the belfry of the chapel in the
frith has proclaimed the arrival of midnight, take his stand upon
Blentford’s Bluff and peer into the dark and sombre depths
of Kinder, when he will hear the hooting of the barn owl on Anna
rocks, the unearthly screech of the landrail as he ploughs his
way through the unmown grass in search of his mate, the scream of
the curlew and chatter of the red grouse as they take their
flight from peak to peak, and see the fairy queen come forth from
the mermaid’s cave in a shimmering light, followed by her
maids, who dance a quadrille to the music of the spheres, and
hear the wild blast of the hunter’s horn heralding the
approach of the Gabriel hounds as they take their rapid course
across the murky sky, and become lost in the unfathomable depths
beyond the Scout.