Having resolved to pass some years[80] abroad, for my instruction and
entertainment, I conceived a design of visiting the island of Corsica. I
wished for something more than just the common course of what is called
the tour of Europe; and Corsica occurred to me as a place which no body
else had seen, and where I should find what was to be seen no where
else, a people actually fighting for liberty, and forming themselves
from a poor inconsiderable oppressed nation, into a flourishing and
independent state.
When I got into Switzerland, I went to see M. Rousseau. He was then
living in romantick retirement, from whence, perhaps, it had been better
for him never to have descended. While he was at a distance, his
singular eloquence filled our minds with high ideas of the wild
philosopher. When he came into the walks of men, we know alas! how much
these ideas suffered.[81]
He entertained me very courteously; for I was recommended to him by my
honoured friend the Earl Marischal,[82] with whom I had the happiness of
travelling through a part of Germany. I had heard that M. Rousseau had
some correspondence with the Corsicans, and had been desired to assist
them in forming their laws.[83] I told him my scheme of going to visit
them, after I had compleated my tour of Italy; and I insisted that he
should give me a letter of introduction. He immediately agreed to do so,
whenever I should acquaint him of my time of going thither; for he saw
that my enthusiasm for the brave islanders was as warm as his own.
I accordingly wrote to him from Rome, in April 1765, that I had fixed
the month of September for my Corsican expedition, and therefore begged
of him to send me the letter of introduction, which if he refused, I
should certainly go without it, and probably be hanged as a spy. So let
him answer for the consequences.
The wild philosopher was a man of his word; and on my arrival at
Florence in August I received the following letter.
"A MONSIEUR, MONSIEUR BOSWELL, &c.
"A Motiers le 30 May, 1765.
"La crise orageuse ou je me trouve, Monsieur, depuis votre depart d'ici,
m'a oté le tems de repondre à votre premiére lettre, et me laisse à
peine celui de repondre en peu de mots à la seconde. Pour m'en tenir à
ce qui presse pour le moment, savoir la recommendation que vous desirez
en Corse; puisque vous avez le desir de visiter ces braves insulaires,
vous pourrez vous informer à Bastia, de M. Buttafoco capitaine au
Regiment Royal Italien; il a sa maison à Vescovado, ou il se tient assez
souvent. C'est un très galant homme, qui a des connoissances et de
l'esprit; il suffira de lui montrer cette lettre, et je suis sur qu'il
vous recevra bien, et contribuera à vous faire voir l'isle et ses
habitans avec satisfaction. Si vous ne trouvez pas M. Buttafoco, et que
vous vouliez aller tout droit à M. Pascal de Paoli general de la nation,
vous pouvez egalement lui montrer cette lettre, et je suis sur,
connoissant la noblesse de son caractére, que vous serez très-content de
son accueil: vous pourrez lui dire même que vous étes aimé de Mylord
Mareschal d'Ecosse, et que Mylord Mareschal est un des plus zelés
partizans de la nation Corse. Au reste vouz n'avez besoin d'autre
recommendation près de ces Messieurs que votre propre mérite, la nation
Corse etant naturellement si accueillante et si hospitaliére, que tous
les etrangers y sont bien venus et caressés.
* * * * * *
"Bons et heureux voyages, santé, gaieté et promt retour. Je vous
embrasse, Monsieur, de tout mon coeur."
"J.J. Rousseau."
"TO Mr. BOSWELL, &c.
"Motiers, the 30 May 1765.
"The stormy crisis in which I have found myself since your departure
from this, has not allowed me any leisure to answer your first letter,
and hardly allows me leisure to reply in a few words to your second. To
confine myself to what is immediately pressing, the recommendation which
you ask for Corsica; since you have a desire to visit those brave
islanders, you may enquire at Bastia for M. Buttafoco, captain of the
Royal Italian Regiment; his house is at Vescovado, where he resides
pretty often. He is a very worthy man, and has both knowledge and
genius; it will be sufficient to shew him this letter, and I am sure he
will receive you well, and will contribute to let you see the island and
its inhabitants with satisfaction. If you do not find M. Buttafoco, and
will go directly to M. Pascal Paoli General of the nation, you may in
the same manner shew him this letter, and as I know the nobleness of his
character, I am sure you will be very well pleased at your reception.
You may even tell him that you are liked by My Lord Marischal of
Scotland, and that My Lord Marischal is one of the most zealous
partisans of the Corsican nation. You need no other recommendation to
these gentlemen but your own merit, the Corsicans being naturally so
courteous and hospitable, that all strangers who come among them, are
made welcome and caressed.
* * * * * *
"I wish you agreeable and fortunate travels, health, gaiety, and a
speedy return. I embrace you Sir with all my heart
"John James Rousseau."
Furnished with these credentials, I was impatient to be with the
illustrious Chief. The charms of sweet Siena detained me longer than
they should have done. I required the hardy air of Corsica to brace me,
after the delights of Tuscany.
I recollect with astonishment how little the real state of Corsica was
known, even by those who had good access to know it. An officer of rank
in the British navy, who had been in several ports of the island, told
me that I run the risque of my life in going among these barbarians;
for, that his surgeon's mate went ashore to take the diversion of
shooting, and every moment was alarmed by some of the natives, who
started from the bushes with loaded guns, and if he had not been
protected by Corsican guides, would have certainly blown out his brains.
Nay at Leghorn, which is within a day's sailing of Corsica, and has a
constant intercourse with it, I found people who dissuaded me from going
thither, because it might be dangerous.
I was however under no apprehension in going to Corsica. Count Rivarola
the Sardinian consul, who is himself a Corsican, assuring me that the
island was then in a very civilized state; and besides, that in the
rudest times no Corsican would ever attack a stranger. The Count was so
good as to give me most obliging letters to many people in the island. I
had now been in several foreign countries. I had found that I was able
to accommodate myself to my fellow-creatures of different languages and
sentiments. I did not fear that it would be a difficult task for me to
make myself easy with the plain and generous Corsicans.
The only danger I saw was, that I might be taken by some of the Barbary
Corsairs, and have a tryal of slavery among the Turks at Algiers.[84] I
spoke of it to Commodore Harrison, who commanded the British squadron in
the Mediterranean, and was then lying with his ship the Centurion in the
bay of Leghorn. He assured me, that if the Turks did take me, they
should not keep me long; but in order to prevent it, he was so good as
to grant me a very ample and particular passport; and as it could be of
no use if I did not meet the Corsairs, he said very pleasantly when he
gave it me, "I hope, Sir, it shall be of no use to you."
Before I left Leghorn, I could observe, that my tour was looked upon by
the Italian politicians in a very serious light, as if truly I had a
commission from my Court, to negociate a treaty with the Corsicans. The
more I disclaimed any such thing, the more they persevered in affirming
it; and I was considered as a very close young man. I therefore just
allowed them to make a minister of me, till time should undeceive
them.[85]
I sailed from Leghorn in a Tuscan vessel, which was going over to Capo
Corso for wine. I preferred this to a vessel going to Bastia, because,
as I did not know how the French general was affected towards the
Corsicans, I was afraid that he might not permit me to go forward to
Paoli. I therefore resolved to land on the territories of the nation,
and after I had been with the illustrious Chief, to pay my respects to
the French if I should find it safe.
Though from Leghorn to Corsica is usually but one day's sailing, there
was so dead a calm that it took us two days. The first day was the most
tedious. However there were two or three Corsicans aboard, and one of
them played on the Citra, which amused me a good deal. At sun-set all
the people in the ship sung the Ave Maria, with great devotion and some
melody. It was pleasing to enter into the spirit of their religion, and
hear them offering up their evening orisons.
The second day we became better acquainted, and more lively and
chearful. The worthy Corsicans thought it was proper to give a moral
lesson to a young traveller just come from Italy. They told me that in
their country I should be treated with the greatest hospitality; but if
I attempted to debauch any of their women, I might lay my account with
instant death.
I employed myself several hours in rowing, which gave me great spirits.
I relished fully my approach to the island, which had acquired an
unusual grandeur in my imagination. As long as I can remember any thing,
I have heard of "The malecontents of Corsica, with Paoli at their head."
It was a curious thought that I was just going to see them.
About seven o'clock at night, we landed safely in the harbour of
Centuri. I learnt that Signor Giaccomini of this place, to whom I was
recommended by Count Rivarola, was just dead. He had made a handsome
fortune in the East Indies; and having had a remarkable warmth in the
cause of liberty during his whole life, he shewed it in the strongest
manner in his last will. He bequeathed a considerable sum of money, and
some pieces of ordinance, to the nation. He also left it in charge to
his heir, to live in Corsica, and be firm in the patriotick interest;
and if ever the island should again be reduced under the power of the
Genoese, he ordered him to retire with all his effects to Leghorn. Upon
these conditions only could his heir enjoy his estate.
I was directed to the house of Signor Giaccomini's cousin, Signor
Antonio Antonetti at Morsiglia, about a mile up the country. The
prospect of the mountains covered with vines and olives, was extremely
agreeable; and the odour of the myrtle and other aromatick shrubs and
flowers that grew all around me, was very refreshing. As I walked along,
I often saw Corsican peasants come suddenly out from the covert; and as
they were all armed, I saw how the frightened imagination of the
surgeon's mate had raised up so many assassins. Even the man who carried
my baggage was armed, and had I been timorous might have alarmed me. But
he and I were very good company to each other. As it grew dusky, I
repeated to myself these lines from a fine passage in Ariosto.
"E pur per selve oscure e calli obliqui
Insieme van senza, sospetto aversi."
Ariost. Canto I.
"Together through dark woods and winding ways
They walk, nor on their hearts suspicion preys."
|
I delivered Signor Antonetti the letter for his deceased cousin. He read
it, and received me with unaffected cordiality, making an apology for my
frugal entertainment, but assuring me of a hearty welcome. His true
kindly hospitality was also shewn in taking care of my servant, an
honest Swiss, who loved to eat and drink well.[86]
I had formed a strange notion that I should see every thing in Corsica
totally different from what I had seen in any other country.[87] I was
therefore much surprised to find Signor Antonetti's house quite an
Italian one, with very good furniture, prints, and copies of some of the
famous pictures. In particular, I was struck to find here a small copy
from Raphael, of St. Michael and the Dragon. There was no necessity for
its being well done. To see the thing at all was what surprised me.
Signor Antonetti gave me an excellent light repast, and a very good bed.
He spoke with great strength of the patriotick cause, and with great
veneration of the General. I was quite easy, and liked much the opening
of my Corsican tour.
The next day, being Sunday, it rained very hard; and I must observe that
the Corsicans with all their resolution, are afraid of bad weather, to a
degree of effeminacy. I got indeed a drole but a just enough account of
this, from one of them. "Sir," said he, "if you were as poor as a
Corsican, and had but one coat, so as that after being wet, you could
not put on dry cloaths, you would be afraid too."[88] Signor Antonetti
would not allow me to set out while it rained, for, said he, "Quando si
trova fuori, patienza; ma di andare fuori è cattivo. If a man finds
himself abroad, there is no help for it. But to go deliberately out, is
too much."
When the day grew a little better, I accompanied Signor Antonetti and
his family, to hear mass in the parish church, a very pretty little
building, about half a quarter of a mile off.
Signor Antonetti's parish priest was to preach to us, at which I was
much pleased, being very curious to hear a Corsican sermon.
Our priest did very well. His text was in the Psalms. "Descendunt ad
infernum viventes. They go down alive into the pit."
After endeavouring to move our passions with a description of the
horrours of hell, he told us "Saint Catherine of Siena wished to be laid
on the mouth of this dreadful pit, that she might stop it up, so as no
more unhappy souls should fall into it. I confess, my brethren, I have
not the zeal of holy Saint Catherine. But I do what I can; I warn you
how to avoid it." He then gave us some good practical advices and
concluded.
The weather being now cleared up, I took leave of the worthy gentleman
to whom I had been a guest. He gave me a letter to Signor Damiano Tomasi
Padre del Commune at Pino, the next village. I got a man with an ass to
carry my baggage. But such a road I never saw. It was absolutely
scrambling along the face of a rock overhanging the sea, upon a path
sometimes not above a foot broad. I thought the ass rather retarded me;
so I prevailed with the man to take my portmanteau and other things on
his back.
Had I formed my opinion of Corsica from what I saw this morning, I might
have been in as bad humour with it, as Seneca was, whose reflections in
prose are not inferiour to his epigrams. "Quid tam nudum inveniri
potest, quid tam abruptum undique quam hoc saxum? quid ad copias
respicienti jejunius? quid ad homines immansuetius? quid ad ipsum loci
situm horridius? Plures tamen hîc peregrini quam cives consistunt? usque
eò ergo commutatio ipsa locorum gravis non est, ut hic quoque locus a
patria quosdam abduxerit.[89] What can be found so bare, what so rugged
all around as this rock? what more barren of provisions? what more rude
as to its inhabitants? what in the very situation of the place more
horrible? what in climate more intemperate? yet there are more
foreigners than natives here. So far then is a change of place from
being disagreeable, that even this place hath brought some people away
from their country."
At Pino I was surprised to find myself met by some brisk young fellows
drest like English sailors, and speaking English tolerably well. They
had been often with cargoes of wine at Leghorn, where they had picked up
what they knew of our language, and taken clothes in part of payment for
some of their merchandise.
I was cordially entertained at Signor Tomasi's. Throughout all Corsica,
except in garrison towns, there is hardly an inn. I met with a single
one, about eight miles from Corte. Before I was accustomed to the
Corsican hospitality, I sometimes forgot myself, and imagining I was in
a publick house, called for what I wanted, with the tone which one uses
in calling to the waiters at a tavern. I did so at Pino, asking for a
variety of things at once; when Signora Tomasi, perceiving my mistake,
looked in my face and smiled, saying with much calmness and good-nature,
"Una cosa dopo un altra, Signore. One thing after another, Sir."
In writing this Journal, I shall not tire my readers with relating the
occurrences of each particular day. It will be much more agreeable to
them, to have a free and continued account of what I saw or heard, most
worthy of observation.
For some time, I had very curious travelling, mostly on foot, and
attended by a couple of stout women, who carried my baggage upon their
heads. Every time that I prepared to set out from a village, I could not
help laughing, to see the good people eager to have my equipage in
order, and roaring out, "Le Donne, Le Donne. The Women, The Women."
I had full leisure and the best opportunities to observe every thing, in
my progress through the island. I was lodged sometimes in private
houses, sometimes in convents, being always well recommended from place
to place. The first convent in which I lay, was at Canari. It appeared a
little odd at first. But I soon learnt to repair to my dormitory as
naturally as if I had been a friar for seven years.
The convents were small decent buildings, suited to the sober ideas of
their pious inhabitants. The religious who devoutly endeavour to "walk
with God," are often treated with raillery by those whom pleasure or
business prevents from thinking of future and more exalted objects. A
little experience of the serenity and peace of mind to be found in
convents, would be of use to temper the fire of men of the world.
At Patrimonio I found the seat of a provincial magistracy. The chief
judge was there, and entertained me very well. Upon my arrival, the
captain of the guard came out, and demanded who I was? I replied
"Inglese English." He looked at me seriously, and then said in a tone
between regret and upbraiding, "Inglese, c'erano i nostri amici; ma non
le sono più. The English. They were once our friends; but they are so no
more." I felt for my country, and was abashed before this honest
soldier.
At Oletta I visited Count Nicholas Rivarola, brother to my friend at
Leghorn. He received me with great kindness, and did every thing in his
power to make me easy. I found here a Corsican who thought better of the
British than the captain of the guard at Patrimonio. He talked of our
bombarding San Fiorenzo,[90] in favour of the patriots, and willingly
gave me his horse for the afternoon, which he said he would not have
done to a man of any other nation.
When I came to Morato, I had the pleasure of being made acquainted with
Signor Barbaggi, who is married to the niece of Paoli. I found him to be
a sensible, intelligent, well-bred man. The mint of Corsica was in his
house. I got specimens of their different kinds of money in silver and
copper, and was told that they hoped in a year or two, to strike some
gold coins. Signor Barbaggi's house was repairing, so I was lodged in
the convent. But in the morning returned to breakfast, and had
chocolate; and at dinner we had no less than twelve well-drest dishes,
served on Dresden china, with a desert, different sorts of wine and a
liqueur, all the produce of Corsica. Signor Barbaggi was frequently
repeating to me, that the Corsicans inhabited a rude uncultivated
country, and that they lived like Spartans. I begged leave to ask him in
what country he could show me greater luxury than I had seen in his
house; and I said I should certainly tell wherever I went, what tables
the Corsicans kept, notwithstanding their pretensions to poverty and
temperance. A good deal of pleasantry passed upon this. His lady was a
genteel woman, and appeared to be agreeable, though very reserved.
From Morato to Corte, I travelled through a wild mountainous rocky
country, diversified with some large valleys. I got little beasts for me
and my servant, sometimes horses, but oftener mules or asses. We had no
bridles, but cords fixed round their necks, with which we managed them
as well as we could.
At Corte I waited upon the supreme council, to one of whom, Signor
Boccociampe, I had a letter from Signor Barbaggi. I was very politely
received, and was conducted to the Franciscan convent, where I got the
apartment of Paoli, who was then some days' journey beyond the
mountains, holding a court of syndicato[91] at a village called
Sollacarò.
As the General resided for some time in this convent, the fathers made a
better appearance than any I saw in the island. I was principally
attended by the Priour, a resolute divine, who had formerly been in the
army, and by Padre Giulio, a man of much address, who still favours me
with his correspondence.
These fathers have a good vineyard and an excellent garden. They have
between 30 and 40 bee-hives in long wooden cases or trunks of trees,
with a covering of the bark of the cork tree. When they want honey, they
burn a little juniper wood, the smoak of which makes the bees retire.
They then take an iron instrument with a sharp-edged crook at one end of
it, and bring out the greatest part of the honey-comb, leaving only a
little for the bees, who work the case full again. By taking the honey
in this way, they never kill a bee. They seemed much at their ease,
living in peace and plenty. I often joked them with the text which is
applied to their order, "Nihil habentes et omnia possidentes. Having
nothing, and yet possessing all things."
I went to the choir with them. The service was conducted with propriety,
and Padre Giulio played on the organ. On the great altar of their church
is a tabernacle carved in wood by a Religious. It is a piece of
exquisite workmanship. A Genoese gentleman offered to give them one in
silver for it; but they would not make the exchange.
These fathers have no library worth mentioning; but their convent is
large and well built. I looked about with great attention, to see if I
could find any inscriptions; but the only one I found was upon a
certain useful edifice.
"Sine necessitate huc non intrate,
Quia necessaria sumus."
|
A studied, rhiming, Latin conceit marked upon such a place was truly
ludicrous.
I chose to stop a while at Corte, to repose myself after my fatigues,
and to see every thing about the capital of Corsica.
The morning after my arrival here, three French deserters desired to
speak with me. The foolish fellows had taken it into their heads, that I
was come to raise recruits for Scotland, and so they begged to have the
honour of going along with me; I suppose with intention to have the
honour of running off from me, as they had done from their own
regiments.
I received many civilities at Corte from Signor Boccociampe, and from
Signor Massesi the Great Chancellor, whose son Signor Luigi a young
gentleman of much vivacity, and natural politeness, was so good as to
attend me constantly as my conductour. I used to call him my governour.
I liked him much, for as he had never been out of the island, his ideas
were entirely Corsican.
Such of the members of the supreme council as were in residence during
my stay at Corte, I found to be solid and sagacious, men of penetration
and ability, well calculated to assist the General in forming his
political plans, and in turning to the best advantage, the violence and
enterprise of the people.
The university was not then sitting, so I could only see the rooms,
which were shewn me by the Abbé Valentini, procuratour of the
university. The professours were all absent except one Capuchin father
whom I visited at his convent. It is a tolerable building, with a pretty
large collection of books. There is in the church here a tabernacle
carved in wood, in the manner of that at the Franciscans', but much
inferiour to it.
I went up to the castle of Corte. The commandant very civilly shewed me
every part of it. As I wished to see all things in Corsica, I desired to
see even the unhappy criminals.[92] There were then three in the castle,
a man for the murder of his wife, a married lady who had hired one of
her servants to strangle a woman of whom she was jealous, and the
servant who had actually perpetrated this barbarous action. They were
brought out from their cells, that I might talk with them. The murderer
of his wife had a stupid hardened appearance, and told me he did it at
the instigation of the devil. The servant was a poor despicable wretch.
He had at first accused his mistress, but was afterwards prevailed with
to deny his accusation, upon which he was put to the torture,[93] by
having lighted matches held between his fingers. This made him return to
what he had formerly said, so as to be a strong evidence against his
mistress. His hands were so miserably scorched, that he was a piteous
object. I asked him why he had committed such a crime, he said, "Perche
era senza spirito. Because I was without understanding." The lady seemed
of a bold and resolute spirit. She spoke to me with great firmness, and
denied her guilt, saying with a contemptuous smile, as she pointed to
her servant, "They can force that creature to say what they please."
The hangman of Corsica was a great curiosity. Being held in the utmost
detestation, he durst not live like another inhabitant of the island. He
was obliged to take refuge in the castle, and there he was kept in a
little corner turret, where he had just room for a miserable bed, and a
little bit of fire to dress such victuals for himself as were sufficient
to keep him alive, for nobody would have any intercourse with him, but
all turned their backs upon him. I went up and looked at him. And a more
dirty rueful spectacle I never beheld. He seemed sensible of his
situation, and held down his head like an abhorred outcast.
It was a long time before they could get a hangman in Corsica, so that
the punishment of the gallows was hardly known, all their criminals
being shot.[94] At last this creature whom I saw, who is a Sicilian,
came with a message to Paoli. The General who has a wonderful talent for
physiognomy, on seeing the man, said immediately to some of the people
about him, "Ecco il boia. Behold our hangman." He gave orders to ask the
man if he would accept of the office, and his answer was, "My
grandfather was a hangman, my father was a hangman. I have been a
hangman myself, and am willing to continue so." He was therefore
immediately put into office, and the ignominious death dispensed by his
hands, had more effect than twenty executions by fire arms.
It is remarkable that no Corsican would upon any account consent to be
hangman. Not the greatest criminals, who might have had their lives upon
that condition. Even the wretch, who for a paultry hire, had strangled a
woman, would rather submit to death, than do the same action, as the
executioner of the law.[95]
When I had seen every thing about Corte, I prepared for my journey over
the mountains, that I might be with Paoli. The night before I set out, I
recollected that I had forgotten to get a passport, which, in the
present situation of Corsica, is still a necessary precaution. After
supper therefore the Priour walked with me to Corte, to the house of the
Great Chancellor, who ordered the passport to be made out immediately,
and while his secretary was writing it, entertained me by reading to me
some of the minutes of the general consulta. When the passport was
finished, and ready to have the seal put to it, I was much pleased with
a beautiful, simple incident. The Chancellor desired a little boy who
was playing in the room by us, to run to his mother, and bring the great
seal of the kingdom. I thought myself sitting in the house of a
Cincinnatus.
Next morning I set out in very good order, having excellent mules, and
active clever Corsican guides. The worthy fathers of the convent who
treated me in the kindest manner while I was their guest, would also
give me some provisions for my journey; so they put up a gourd of their
best wine, and some delicious pomegranates. My Corsican guides appeared
so hearty, that I often got down and walked along with them, doing just
what I saw them do. When we grew hungry, we threw stones among the thick
branches of the chestnut trees which over-shadowed us, and in that
manner we brought down a shower of chestnuts with which we filled our
pockets, and went on eating them with great relish; and when this made
us thirsty, we lay down by the side of the first brook, put our mouths
to the stream, and drank sufficiently. It was just being for a little
while, one of the "prisca gens mortalium, the primitive race of men,"
who ran about in the woods eating acorns and drinking water.
While I stopped to refresh my mules at a little village, the inhabitants
came crouding about me as an ambassadour going to their General. When
they were informed of my country, a strong black fellow among them
said, "Inglese! sono barbari; non credono in Dio grande. English! they
are barbarians; they don't believe in the great God." I told him,
"Excuse me Sir. We do believe in God, and in Jesus Christ too." "Um,"
said he, "e nel Papa? and in the Pope?" "No." "E perche? And why?" This
was a puzzling question in these circumstances; for there was a great
audience to the controversy. I thought I would try a method of my own,
and very gravely replied, "Perche siamo troppo lontani. Because we are
too far off."[96] A very new argument against the universal
infallibility of the Pope. It took however; for my opponent mused a
while, and then said, "Troppo lontano! La Sicilia è tanto lontana che
l'Inghilterra; e in Sicilia si credono nel Papa. Too far off! Why Sicily
is as far off as England. Yet in Sicily they believe in the Pope." "O,"
said I "noi siamo dieci volte più lontani che la Sicilia! We are ten
times farther off than Sicily." "Aha!" said he; and seemed quite
satisfied. In this manner I got off very well. I question much whether
any of the learned reasonings of our protestant divines would have had
so good an effect.
My journey over the mountains was very entertaining. I past some immense
ridges and vast woods. I was in great health and spirits, and fully able
to enter into the ideas of the brave rude men whom I found in all
quarters.
At Bastelica where there is a stately spirited race of people, I had a
large company to attend me in the convent. I liked to see their natural
frankness and ease;[97] for why should men be afraid of their own
species? They just came in making an easy bow, placed themselves round
the room where I was sitting, rested themselves on their muskets, and
immediately entered into conversation with me. They talked very
feelingly of the miseries that their country had endured, and complained
that they were still but in a state of poverty. I happened at that time
to have an unusual flow of spirits; and as one who finds himself amongst
utter strangers in a distant country has no timidity, I harangued the
men of Bastelica with great fluency. I expatiated on the bravery of the
Corsicans, by which they had purchased liberty, the most valuable of all
possessions, and rendered themselves glorious over all Europe. Their
poverty, I told them, might be remedied by a proper cultivation of their
island, and by engaging a little in commerce. But I bid them remember,
that they were much happier in their present state than in a state of
refinement and vice, and that therefore they should beware of
luxury.[98]
What I said had the good fortune to touch them, and several of them
repeated the same sentiments much better than I could do. They all
expressed their strong attachment to Paoli, and called out in one voice
that they were all at his command. I could with pleasure have passed a
long time here.
At Ornano I saw the ruins of the seat where the great Sampiero[99] had
his residence. They were a droll enough society of monks in the convent
at Ornano. When I told them that I was an Englishman, "Aye, aye," said
one of them, "as was well observed by a reverend bishop, when talking of
your pretended reformation, 'Angli olim angeli nunc diaboli. The
English, formerly angels now devils.'" I looked upon this as an honest
effusion of spiritual zeal. The Fathers took good care of me in
temporals.
When I at last came within sight of Sollacarò, where Paoli was, I could
not help being under considerable anxiety. My ideas of him had been
greatly heightened by the conversations I had held with all sorts of
people in the island, they having represented him to me as something
above humanity. I had the strongest desire to see so exalted a
character; but I feared that I should be unable to give a proper account
why I had presumed to trouble him with a visit, and that I should sink
to nothing before him. I almost wished yet to go back without seeing
him.[100] These workings of sensibility employed my mind till I rode
through the village and came up to the house where he was lodged.
Leaving my servant with my guides, I past through the guards, and was
met by some of the General's people, who conducted me into an
antichamber, where were several gentlemen in waiting. Signor Boccociampe
had notified my arrival, and I was shewn into Paoli's room. I found him
alone, and was struck with his appearance. He is tall, strong, and well
made; of a fair complexion, a sensible, free, and open countenance, and
a manly and noble carriage. He was then in his fortieth year. He was
drest in green and gold. He used to wear the common Corsican habit, but
on the arrival of the French he thought a little external elegance might
be of use to make the government appear in a more respectable light.
He asked me what were my commands for him. I presented him a letter from
Count Rivarola, and when he had read it, I shewed him my letter from
Rousseau. He was polite, but very reserved. I had stood in the presence
of many a prince, but I never had such a trial as in the presence of
Paoli. I have already said that he is a great physiognomist. In
consequence of his being in continual danger from treachery and
assassination, he has formed a habit of studiously observing every new
face. For ten minutes we walked backwards and forwards through the room,
hardly saying a word, while he looked at me, with a steadfast, keen and
penetrating eye, as if he searched my very soul.
This interview was for a while very severe upon me. I was much relieved
when his reserve wore off, and he began to speak more. I then ventured
to address him with this compliment to the Corsicans. "Sir, I am upon my
travels, and have lately visited Rome. I am come from seeing the ruins
of one brave and free people; I now see the rise of another."
He received my compliment very graciously; but observed that the
Corsicans had no chance of being like the Romans, a great conquering
nation, who should extend its empire over half the globe. Their
situation, and the modern political systems, rendered this impossible.
"But," said he, "Corsica may be a very happy country."
He expressed a high admiration of M. Rousseau, whom Signor Buttafoco had
invited to Corsica, to aid the nation in forming its laws.
It seems M. de Voltaire had reported, in his rallying manner, that the
invitation was merely a trick which he had put upon Rousseau. Paoli told
me that when he understood this, he himself wrote to Rousseau, enforcing
the invitation. Of this affair I shall give a full account in an after
part of my Journal.[101]
Some of the nobles who attended him came into the room, and in a little
we were told that dinner was served up. The General did me the honour to
place me next him. He had a table of fifteen or sixteen covers, having
always a good many of the principal men of the island with him. He had
an Italian cook who had been long in France; but he chose to have a few
plain substantial dishes, avoiding every kind of luxury, and drinking no
foreign wine.
I felt myself under some constraint in such a circle of heroes. The
General talked a great deal on history and on literature. I soon
perceived that he was a fine classical scholar, that his mind was
enriched with a variety of knowledge, and that his conversation at meals
was instructive and entertaining. Before dinner he had spoken French. He
now spoke Italian, in which he is very eloquent.
We retired to another room to drink coffee. My timidity wore off. I no
longer anxiously thought of myself; my whole attention was employed in
listening to the illustrious commander of a nation.
He recommended me to the care of the Abbé Rostini, who had lived many
years in France. Signor Colonna, the lord of the manor here being from
home, his house was assigned for me to live in. I was left by myself
till near supper time, when I returned to the General, whose
conversation improved upon me, as did the society of those about him,
with whom I gradually formed an acquaintance.
Every day I felt myself happier. Particular marks of attention were
shewn me as a subject of Great Britain, the report of which went over to
Italy, and confirmed the conjectures that I was really an envoy. In the
morning I had my chocolate served up upon a silver salver adorned with
the arms of Corsica. I dined and supped constantly with the General. I
was visited by all the nobility, and whenever I chose to make a little
tour, I was attended by a party of guards. I begged of the General not
to treat me with so much ceremony; but he insisted upon it.
One day when I rode out I was mounted on Paoli's own horse, with rich
furniture of crimson velvet, with broad gold lace, and had my guards
marching along with me.[102] I allowed myself to indulge a momentary
pride in this parade, as I was curious to experience what could really
be the pleasure of state and distinction with which mankind are so
strangely intoxicated.
When I returned to the continent after all this greatness, I used to
joke with my acquaintance, and tell them that I could not bear to live
with them, for they did not treat me with a proper respect.
My time passed here in the most agreeable manner. I enjoyed a sort of
luxury of noble sentiment. Paoli became more affable with me. I made
myself known to him.[103] I forgot the great distance between us, and
had every day some hours of private conversation with him.
From my first setting out on this tour, I wrote down every night what I
had observed during the day, throwing together a great deal, that I
might afterwards make a selection at leisure.
Of these particulars, the most valuable to my readers, as well as to
myself, must surely be the memoirs and remarkable sayings of Paoli,
which I am proud to record.
Talking of the Corsican war, "Sir," said he, "if the event prove happy,
we shall be called great defenders of liberty. If the event shall prove
unhappy, we shall be called unfortunate rebels."
The French objected to him that the Corsican nation had no regular
troops. "We would not have them," said Paoli. "We should then have the
bravery of this and the other regiment. At present every single man is
as a regiment himself. Should the Corsicans be formed into regular
troops, we should lose that personal bravery which has produced such
actions among us, as in another country would have rendered famous even
a Marischal."[104]
I asked him how he could possibly have a soul so superiour to interest.
"It is not superiour," said he; "my interest is to gain a name. I know
well that he who does good to his country will gain that: and I expect
it. Yet could I render this people happy, I would be content to be
forgotten. I have an unspeakable pride. 'Una superbia indicibile.' The
approbation of my own heart is enough."
He said he would have great pleasure in seeing the world, and enjoying
the society of the learned, and the accomplished in every country. I
asked him how with these dispositions he could bear to be confined to an
island yet in a rude uncivilised state; and instead of participating
Attick evenings, "noctes coenaeque Deûm," be in a continual course of
care and of danger. He replied in one line of Virgil,
"Vincet amor patriae laudumque immensa cupido."
This uttered with the fine open Italian pronunciation, and the graceful
dignity of his manner, was very noble. I wished to have a statue of him
taken at that moment.
I asked him if he understood English. He immediately began and spoke it,
which he did tolerably well. When at Naples he had known several Irish
gentlemen who were officers in that service. Having a great facility in
acquiring languages, he learnt English from them. But as he had been now
ten years without ever speaking it, he spoke very slow. One could see
that he was possessed of the words, but for want of what I may call
mechanical practice, he had a difficulty in expressing himself.
I was diverted with his English library. It consisted of—
Some broken volumes of the "Spectatour" and "Tatler."
Pope's "Essay on Man."
"Gulliver's Travels."
A "History of France," in old English. And "Barclay's Apology
for the Quakers."
I promised to send him some English books.[105]
He convinced me how well he understood our language; for I took the
liberty to shew him a Memorial which I had drawn up on the advantages to
Great Britain from an alliance with Corsica, and he translated this
memorial into Italian with the greatest facility. He has since given me
more proofs of his knowledge of our tongue by his answers to the letters
which I have had the honour to write to him in English, and in
particular by a very judicious and ingenious criticism on some of
Swift's works.
He was well acquainted with the history of Britain. He had read many of
the parliamentary debates, and had even seen a number of the "North
Briton."[106] He shewed a considerable knowledge of this country, and
often introduced anecdotes and drew comparisons and allusions from
Britain.
He said his great object was to form the Corsicans in such a manner that
they might have a firm constitution, and might be able to subsist
without him. "Our state," said he, "is young, and still requires the
leading strings. I am desirous that the Corsicans should be taught to
walk of themselves. Therefore when they come to me to ask whom they
should chuse for their Padre del Commune, or other Magistrate, I tell
them, 'You know better than I do the able and honest men among your
neighbours. Consider the consequence of your choice, not only to
yourselves in particular, but to the island in general.' In this manner
I accustom them to feel their own importance as members of the state."
After representing the severe and melancholy state of oppression under
which Corsica had so long groaned, he said, "We are now to our country
like the prophet Elishah stretched over the dead child of the Shunamite,
eye to eye, nose to nose, mouth to mouth. It begins to recover warmth,
and to revive. I hope it shall yet regain full health and vigour."
I said that things would make a rapid progress, and that we should soon
see all the arts and sciences flourish in Corsica. "Patience, Sir," said
he. "If you saw a man who had fought a hard battle, who was much
wounded, who was beaten to the ground, and who with difficulty could
lift himself up, it would not be reasonable to ask him to get his hair
well drest, and to put on embroidered clothes. Corsica has fought a hard
battle, has been much wounded, has been beaten to the ground, and with
difficulty can lift herself up. The arts and sciences are like dress and
ornament. You cannot expect them from us for some time. But come back
twenty or thirty years hence, and we'll shew you arts and sciences, and
concerts and assemblies, and fine ladies, and we'll make you fall in
love among us, Sir."
He smiled a good deal, when I told him that I was much surprised to find
him so amiable, accomplished, and polite; for although I knew I was to
see a great man, I expected to find a rude character, an Attila king of
the Goths, or a Luitprand[107], king of the Lombards.
I observed that although he had often a placid smile upon his
countenance, he hardly ever laughed. Whether loud laughter in general
society be a sign of weakness or rusticity, I cannot say; but I have
remarked that real great men, and men of finished behaviour, seldom fall
into it.
The variety, and I may say versatility, of the mind of this great man is
amazing. One day when I came in to pay my respects to him before dinner,
I found him in much agitation, with a circle of his nobles around him,
and a Corsican standing before him like a criminal before his judge.
Paoli immediately turned to me, "I am glad you are come, Sir. You
protestants talk much against our doctrine of transubstantiation. Behold
here the miracle of transubstantiation, a Corsican transubstantiated
into a Genoese. That unworthy man who now stands before me is a
Corsican, who has been long a lieutenant under the Genoese, in Capo
Corso. Andrew Doria and all their greatest heroes could not be more
violent for the republick than he has been, and all against his
country." Then turning to the man, "Sir," said he, "Corsica makes it a
rule to pardon the most unworthy of her children, when they surrender
themselves, even when they are forced to do so, as is your case. You
have now escaped. But take care. I shall have a strict eye upon you; and
if ever you make the least attempt to return to your traiterous
practices, you know I can be avenged of you." He spoke this with the
fierceness of a lion, and from the awful darkness of his brow, one could
see that his thoughts of vengeance were terrible. Yet when it was over,
he all at once resumed his usual appearance, called out "andiamo, come
along;" went to dinner, and was as chearful and gay as if nothing had
happened.
His notions of morality are high and refined, such as become the Father
of a nation. Were he a libertine, his influence would soon vanish; for
men will never trust the important concerns of society to one they know
will do what is hurtful to society for his own pleasures. He told me
that his father had brought him up with great strictness, and that he
had very seldom deviated from the paths of virtue. That this was not
from a defect of feeling and passion, but that his mind being filled
with important objects, his passions were employed in more noble
pursuits than those of licentious pleasure. I saw from Paoli's example
the great art of preserving young men of spirit from the contagion of
vice, in which there is often a species of sentiment, ingenuity and
enterprise nearly allied to virtuous qualities.
Shew a young man that there is more real spirit in virtue than in vice,
and you have a surer hold of him, during his years of impetuosity and
passion, than by convincing his judgement of all the rectitude of
ethicks.
One day at dinner, he gave us the principal arguments for the being and
attributes of God. To hear these arguments repeated with graceful energy
by the illustrious Paoli in the midst of his heroick nobles, was
admirable. I never felt my mind more elevated.
I took occasion to mention the king of Prussia's infidel writings, and
in particular his epistle to Marischal Keith.[108] Paoli, who often
talks with admiration of the greatness of that monarch, instead of
uttering any direct censure of what he saw to be wrong in so
distinguished a hero, paused a little, and then said with a grave and
most expressive look, "C'est une belle consolation pour un vieux general
mourant, 'En peu de tems vous ne serez plus.' It is fine consolation for
an old general when dying, 'In a little while you shall be no more.'"
He observed that the Epicurean philosophy had produced but one exalted
character, whereas Stoicism had been the seminary of great men. What he
now said put me in mind of these noble lines of Lucan.
Hi mores, haec duri immota Catonis
Secta fuit, servare modum finemque tenere,
Naturamque sequi, patriaeque impendere vitam,
Nec sibi sed toti genitum se credere mundo.
Lucan. Pharsal. lib. ii. l. 380.
These were the stricter manners of the man,
And this the stubborn course in which they ran;
The golden mean unchanging to pursue,
Constant to keep the purpos'd end in view;
Religiously to follow nature's laws,
And die with pleasure in his country's cause.
To think he was not for himself design'd,
But born to be of use to all mankind.
—Rowe.
|
When he was asked if he would quit the island of which he had undertaken
the protection, supposing a foreign power should create him a Marischal,
and make him governour of a province; he replied, "I hope they will
believe I am more honest, or more ambitious; for," said he, "to accept
of the highest offices under a foreign power would be to serve."
"To have been a colonel, a general or a marischal," said he, "would have
been sufficient for my table, for my taste in dress, for the beauty whom
my rank would have entitled me to attend. But it would not have been
sufficient for this spirit, for this imagination." Putting his hand
upon his bosom.
He reasoned one day in the midst of his nobles whether the commander of
a nation should be married or not. "If he is married," said he, "there
is a risk that he may be distracted by private affairs, and swayed too
much by a concern for his family. If he is unmarried, there is a risk
that not having the tender attachments of a wife and children, he may
sacrifice all to his own ambition." When I said he ought to marry and
have a son to succeed him, "Sir," said he, "what security can I have
that my son will think and act as I do? What sort of a son had Cicero,
and what had Marcus Aurelius?"
He said to me one day when we were alone, "I never will marry. I have
not the conjugal virtues. Nothing would tempt me to marry, but a woman
who should bring me an immense dowry, with which I might assist my
country."
But he spoke much in praise of marriage, as an institution which the
experience of ages had found to be the best calculated for the happiness
of individuals, and for the good of society. Had he been a private
gentleman, he probably would have married, and I am sure would have made
as good a husband and father as he does a supreme magistrate and a
general. But his arduous and critical situation would not allow him to
enjoy domestick felicity. He is wedded to his country, and the Corsicans
are his children.
He often talked to me of marriage, told me licentious pleasures were
delusive and transient, that I should never be truly happy till I was
married, and that he hoped to have a letter from me soon after my return
home, acquainting him that I had followed his advice, and was convinced
from experience that he was in the right. With such an engaging
condescension did this great man behave to me. If I could but paint his
manner, all my readers would be charmed with him.
He has a mind fitted for philosophical speculations as well as for
affairs of state. One evening at supper, he entertained us for some time
with some curious reveries and conjectures as to the nature of the
intelligence of beasts, with regard to which, he observed human
knowledge was as yet very imperfect. He in particular seemed fond of
inquiring into the language of the brute creation. He observed that
beasts fully communicate their ideas to each other, and that some of
them, such as dogs, can form several articulate sounds. In different
ages there have been people who pretended to understand the language of
birds and beasts. Perhaps, said Paoli, in a thousand years we may know
this as well as we know things which appeared much more difficult to be
known. I have often since this conversation indulged myself in such
reveries. If it were not liable to ridicule, I would say that an
acquaintance with the language of beasts would be a most agreeable
acquisition to man, as it would enlarge the circle of his social
intercourse.
On my return to Britain I was disappointed to find nothing upon this
subject in Doctour Gregory's[109] Comparative View of the State and
Faculties of Man with those of the Animal World, which was then just
published. My disappointment however was in a good measure made up by a
picture of society, drawn by that ingenious and worthy authour, which
may be well applied to the Corsicans. "There is a certain period in the
progress of society in which mankind appear to the greatest advantage.
In this period, they have the bodily powers, and all the animal
functions remaining in full vigour. They are bold, active, steady,
ardent in the love of liberty and their native country. Their manners
are simple, their social affections warm, and though they are greatly
influenced by the ties of blood, yet they are generous and hospitable to
strangers. Religion is universally regarded among them, though disguised
by a variety of superstitions."[110]
Paoli was very desirous that I should study the character of the
Corsicans. "Go among them," said he, "the more you talk with them, you
will do me the greater pleasure. Forget the meanness of their apparel.
Hear their sentiments. You will find honour, and sense, and abilities
among these poor men."
His heart grew big when he spoke of his countrymen. His own great
qualities appeared to unusual advantage, while he described the virtues
of those for whose happiness his whole life was employed. "If," said he,
"I should lead into the field an army of Corsicans against an army
double their number, let me speak a few words to the Corsicans, to
remind them of the honour of their country and of their brave
forefathers, I do not say that they would conquer, but I am sure that
not a man of them would give way. The Corsicans," said he, "have a
steady resolution that would amaze you. I wish you could see one of them
die. It is a proverb among the Genoese, 'I Corsi meritano la furca e la
sanno soffrire. The Corsicans deserve the gallows, and they fear not to
meet it.' There is a real compliment to us in this saying."
He told me, that in Corsica, "criminals are put to death four and twenty
hours after sentence is pronounced against them. This," said he, "may
not be over catholick, but it is humane."
He went on, and gave me several instances of the Corsican spirit.
"A sergeant," said he, "who fell in one of our desperate actions, when
just a dying, wrote to me thus. 'I salute you. Take care of my aged
father. In two hours I shall be with the rest who have bravely died for
their country.'"
A Corsican gentleman who had been taken prisoner by the Genoese, was
thrown into a dark dungeon, where he was chained to the ground. While he
was in this dismal situation, the Genoese sent a message to him, that if
he would accept of a commission in their service, he might have it.
"No," said he. "Were I to accept of your offer, it would be with a
determined purpose to take the first opportunity of returning to the
service of my country. But I will not accept of it. For I would not have
my countrymen even suspect that I could be one moment unfaithful." And
he remained in his dungeon. Paoli went on: "I defy Rome, Sparta or
Thebes to shew me thirty years of such patriotism as Corsica can boast.
Though the affection between relations is exceedingly strong in the
Corsicans, they will give up their nearest relations for the good of
their country, and sacrifice such as have deserted to the Genoese."
He gave me a noble instance of a Corsican's feeling and greatness of
mind. "A criminal," said he, "was condemned to die. His nephew came to
me with a lady of distinction, that she might solicit his pardon. The
nephew's anxiety made him think that the lady did not speak with
sufficient force and earnestness. He therefore advanced, and addressed
himself to me, 'Sir, is it proper for me to speak?' as if he felt that
it was unlawful to make such an application. I bid him go on. 'Sir,'
said he, with the deepest concern, 'may I beg the life of my uncle? If
it is granted, his relations will make a gift to the state of a thousand
zechins. We will furnish fifty soldiers in pay during the siege of
Furiani. We will agree that my uncle shall be banished, and will engage
that he shall never return to the island.' I knew the nephew to be a man
of worth, and I answered him: 'You are acquainted with the circumstances
of this case. Such is my confidence in you, that if you will say that
giving your uncle a pardon would be just, useful or honourable for
Corsica, I promise you it shall be granted.' He turned about, burst into
tears, and left me, saying, 'Non vorrei vendere l'onore della patria per
mille zechini. I would not have the honour of our country sold for a
thousand zechins.' And his uncle suffered."
Although the General was one of the constituent members of the court of
syndicato,[111] he seldom took his chair. He remained in his own
apartment; and if any of those whose suits were determined by the
syndicato were not pleased with the sentence, they had an audience of
Paoli, who never failed to convince them that justice had been done
them. This appeared to me a necessary indulgence in the infancy of
government. The Corsicans having been so long in a state of anarchy,
could not all at once submit their minds to the regular authority of
justice. They would submit implicitly to Paoli, because they love and
venerate him. But such a submission is in reality being governed by
their passions. They submit to one for whom they have a personal regard.
They cannot be said to be perfectly civilized till they submit to the
determinations of their magistrates as officers of the state, entrusted
with the administration of justice. By convincing them that the
magistrates judge with abilities and uprightness, Paoli accustoms the
Corsicans to have that salutary confidence in their rulers, which is
necessary for securing respect and stability to the government.
After having said much in praise of the Corsicans, "Come," said he, "you
shall have a proof of what I tell you. There is a crowd in the next
room, waiting for admittance to me. I will call in the first I see, and
you shall hear him." He who chanced to present himself, was a venerable
old man. The General shook him by the hand, and bid him good day, with
an easy kindness that gave the aged peasant full encouragement to talk
to his Excellency with freedom. Paoli bid him not mind me, but say on.
The old man then told him that there had been an unlucky tumult in the
village where he lived, and that two of his sons were killed. That
looking upon this as a heavy misfortune, but without malice on the part
of those who deprived him of his sons, he was willing to have allowed it
to pass without enquiry. But his wife anxious for revenge, had made an
application to have them apprehended and punished. That he gave his
Excellency this trouble to intreat that the greatest care might be
taken, lest in the heat of enmity among his neighbours, any body should
be punished as guilty of the blood of his sons, who was really innocent
of it. There was something so generous in this sentiment, while at the
same time the old man seemed full of grief for the loss of his children,
that it touched my heart in the most sensible manner. Paoli looked at me
with complacency and a kind of amiable triumph on the behaviour of the
old man, who had a flow of words and a vivacity of gesture which fully
justified what Petrus Cyrnaeus[112] hath said of the Corsican
eloquence; "Diceres omnes esse bonos causidicos. You would say they are
all good pleaders."
I found Paoli had reason to wish that I should talk much with his
countrymen, as it gave me a higher opinion both of him and of them.
Thuanus[113] has justly said, "Sunt mobilia Corsorum ingenia. The
dispositions of the Corsicans are changeable." Yet after ten years,
their attachment to Paoli is as strong as at the first. Nay, they have
an enthusiastick admiration of him. "Questo grand' uomo mandato per Dio
a liberare la patria. This great man whom God hath sent to free our
country," was the manner in which they expressed themselves to me
concerning him.
Those who attended on Paoli were all men of sense and abilities in their
different departments. Some of them had been in foreign service. One of
them, Signor Suzzoni, had been long in Germany. He spoke German to me,
and recalled to my mind, the happy days which I have past among that
plain, honest, brave people, who of all nations in the world, receive
strangers with the greatest cordiality.[114] Signor Gian Quilico Casa
Bianca, of the most ancient Corsican nobility, was much my friend. He
instructed me fully with regard to the Corsican government. He had even
the patience to sit by me while I wrote down an account of it, which
from conversations with Paoli, I afterwards enlarged and improved. I
received many civilities from the Abbé Rostini, a man of literature, and
distinguished no less for the excellency of his heart. His saying of
Paoli deserves to be remembered. "Nous ne craignons pas que notre
General nous trompe ni qu'il se laisse tromper. We are not afraid that
our General will deceive us, nor that he will let himself be deceived."
I also received civilities from Father Guelfucci of the order of
Servites,[115] a man whose talents and virtues, united with a singular
decency and sweetness of manners, have raised him to the honourable
station of secretary to the General. Indeed all the gentlemen here
behaved to me in the most obliging manner. We walked, rode, and went
a-shooting together.
The peasants and soldiers were all frank, open, lively and bold, with a
certain roughness of manner which agrees well with their character, and
is far from being displeasing. The General gave me an admirable instance
of their plain and natural solid good sense. A young French Marquis,
very rich and very vain, came over to Corsica. He had a sovereign
contempt for the barbarous inhabitants, and strutted[116] about (andava
a passo misurato) with prodigious airs of consequence. The Corsicans
beheld him with a smile of ridicule, and said, "Let him alone, he is
young."
The Corsican peasants and soldiers are very fond of baiting cattle with
the large mountain dogs. This keeps up a ferocity among them which
totally extinguishes fear. I have seen a Corsican in the very heat of a
baiting, run in, drive off the dogs, seize the half-frantick animal by
the horns, and lead it away. The common people did not seem much given
to diversions. I observed some of them in the great hall of the house of
Colonna where I was lodged, amusing themselves with playing at a sort of
draughts in a very curious manner. They drew upon the floor with chalk,
a sufficient number of squares, chalking one all over, and leaving one
open, alternately; and instead of black men and white, they had bits of
stone and bits of wood. It was an admirable burlesque on gaming.
The chief satisfaction of these islanders when not engaged in war or in
hunting, seemed to be that of lying at their ease in the open air,
recounting tales of the bravery of their countrymen, and singing songs
in honour of the Corsicans, and against the Genoese. Even in the night
they will continue this pastime in the open air, unless rain forces them
to retire into their houses.
The ambasciadore Inglese, The English ambassadour, as the good peasants
and soldiers used to call me, became a great favourite among them. I got
a Corsican dress made, in which I walked about with an air of true
satisfaction. The General did me the honour to present me with his own
pistols, made in the island, all of Corsican wood and iron, and of
excellent workmanship. I had every other accoutrement. I even got one of
the shells which had often sounded the alarm to liberty. I preserve them
all with great care.
The Corsican peasants and soldiers were quite free and easy with me.
Numbers of them used to come and see me of a morning, and just go out
and in as they pleased.[117] I did every thing in my power to make them
fond of the British, and bid them hope for an alliance with us. They
asked me a thousand questions about my country, all which I chearfully
answered as well as I could.
One day they would needs hear me play upon my German flute. To have told
my honest natural visitants, Really gentlemen I play very ill, and put
on such airs as we do in our genteel companies, would have been highly
ridiculous. I therefore immediately complied with their request. I gave
them one or two Italian airs, and then some of our beautiful old Scots
tunes, Gilderoy, the Lass of Patie's Mill, Corn riggs are Bonny. The
pathetick simplicity and pastoral gaiety of the Scots musick, will
always please those who have the genuine feelings of nature. The
Corsicans were charmed with the specimens I gave them, though I may now
say that they were very indifferently performed.
My good friends insisted also to have an English song from me. I
endeavoured to please them in this too, and was very lucky in that which
occurred to me. I sung them "Hearts of oak are our ships, Hearts of oak
are our men."[118] I translated it into Italian for them, and never did
I see men so delighted with a song as the Corsicans were with Hearts of
oak. "Cuore di querco," cried they, "bravo Inglese." It was quite a
joyous riot. I fancied myself to be a recruiting sea-officer. I fancied
all my chorus of Corsicans aboard the British fleet.
Paoli talked very highly on preserving the independency of Corsica. "We
may," said he, "have foreign powers for our friends; but they must be
'Amici fuori di casa. Friends at arm's length.' We may make an alliance,
but we will not submit ourselves to the dominion of the greatest nation
in Europe. This people who have done so much for liberty, would be hewn
in pieces man by man, rather than allow Corsica to be sunk into the
territories of another country. Some years ago, when a false rumour was
spread that I had a design to yield up Corsica to the Emperour, a
Corsican came to me, and addressed me in great agitation. 'What! shall
the blood of so many heroes, who have sacrificed their lives for the
freedom of Corsica, serve only to tinge the purple of a foreign
prince!'"
I mentioned to him the scheme of an alliance between Great Britain and
Corsica. Paoli with politeness and dignity waved the subject, by saying,
"The less assistance we have from allies, the greater our glory." He
seemed hurt by our treatment of his country. He mentioned the severe
proclamation at the last peace, in which the brave islanders were called
the Rebels of Corsica. He said with a conscious pride and proper
feeling, "Rebels! I did not expect that from Great Britain."
He however showed his great respect for the British nation, and I could
see he wished much to be in friendship with us. When I asked him what I
could possibly do in return for all his goodness to me. He replied,
"Solamente disingannate il suo corte. Only undeceive your court. Tell
them what you have seen here. They will be curious to ask you. A man
come from Corsica will be like a man come from the Antipodes."
I expressed such hopes as a man of sensibility would in my situation
naturally form. He saw at least one Briton devoted to his cause. I threw
out many flattering ideas of future political events, imaged the British
and the Corsicans strictly united both in commerce and in war, and
described the blunt kindness and admiration with which the hearty,
generous common people of England would treat the brave Corsicans.
I insensibly got the better of his reserve upon this head. My flow of
gay ideas relaxed his severity, and brightened up his humour. "Do you
remember," said he, "the little people in Asia who were in danger of
being oppressed by the great king of Assyria,[119] till they addressed
themselves to the Romans. And the Romans, with the noble spirit of a
great and free nation, stood forth, and would not suffer the great king
to destroy the little people, but made an alliance with them?"
He made no observations upon this beautiful piece of history. It was
easy to see his allusion to his own nation and ours.
When the General related this piece of history to me, I was negligent
enough not to ask him what little people he meant. As the story made a
strong impression upon me, upon my return to Britain I searched a
variety of books to try if I could find it, but in vain. I therefore
took the liberty in one of my letters to Paoli, to beg he would let me
know it. He told me the little people was the Jews, that the story was
related by several ancient authours, but that I would find it told with
most precision and energy in the eighth chapter of the first book of the
Maccabees.
The first book of the Maccabees, though not received into the Protestant
canon, is allowed by all the learned to be an authentick history. I have
read Paoli's favourite story with much satisfaction, and, as in several
circumstances, it very well applies to Great Britain and Corsica, is
told with great eloquence, and furnishes a fine model for an alliance, I
shall make no apology for transcribing the most interesting verses.
"Now Judas had heard of the fame of the Romans, that they were mighty
and valiant men, and such as would lovingly accept all that joined
themselves unto them, and make a league of amity with all that came unto
them.
"And that they were men of great valour. It was told him also of their
wars and noble acts which they had done amongst the Galatians, and how
they had conquered them, and brought them under tribute.
"And what they had done in the country of Spain, for the winning of the
mines of the silver and gold which are there.
"And that by their policy and patience they had conquered all the place,
though it were very far from them.
"It was told him besides, how they destroyed and brought under their
dominion, all other kingdoms and isles that at any time resisted them.
"But with their friends, and such as relied upon them, they kept amity:
and that they had conquered kingdoms both far and near, insomuch as all
that heard of their name were afraid of them:
"Also, that whom they would help to a kingdom, those reign; and whom
again they would, they displace: finally, that they were greatly
exalted:
"Moreover, how they had made for themselves a senate-house, wherein
three hundred and twenty men sat in council dayly, consulting alway for
the people, to the end that they might be well ordered.
"In consideration of these things Judas chose Eupolemus the son of John
the son of Accos, and Jason the son of Eleazar, and sent them to Rome,
to make a league of amity and confederacy with them,
"And to entreat them that they would take the yoke from them, for they
saw that the kingdom of the Grecians did oppress Israel with servitude.
"They went therefore to Rome, which was a very great journey, and came
into the senate, where they spake, and said,
"Judas Maccabeus, with his brethren, and the people of the Jews, have
sent us unto you, to make a confederacy and peace with you, and that we
might be registered your confederates and friends.
"So that matter pleased the Romans well.
"And this is the copy of the epistle which the senate wrote back again,
in tables of brass, and sent to Jerusalem, that there they might have by
them a memorial of peace and confederacy.
"Good success be to the Romans, and to the people of the Jews, by sea
and by land for ever. The sword also, and enemy be far from them.
"If there come first any war upon the Romans, or any of their
confederates, throughout all their dominions.
"The people of the Jews shall help them, as the time shall be appointed,
with all their heart.
"Neither shall they give any thing unto them that make war upon them, or
aid them with victuals, weapons, money or ships, as it hath seemed good
unto the Romans, but they shall keep their covenant, without taking
anything therefore.
"In the same manner also, if war come first upon the nation of the Jews,
the Romans shall help them with all their heart, according as the time
shall be appointed them.
"Neither shall victuals be given to them that take part against them, or
weapons, or money, or ships, as it hath seemed good to the Romans; but
they shall keep their covenants, and that without deceit.
"According to these articles did the Romans make a covenant with the
people of the Jews.
"Howbeit, if hereafter the one party or the other, shall think meet to
add or diminish any thing they may do it at their pleasures, and
whatsoever they shall add or take away, shall be ratified.
"And, as touching the evils that Demetrius doth to the Jews, we have
written unto him, saying, Wherefore hast thou made thy yoke heavy upon
our friends and confederates the Jews?
"If therefore they complain any more against thee, we will do them
justice, and fight with thee by sea and by land."
I will venture to ask whether the Romans appear, in any one instance of
their history, more truly great than they do here.
Paoli said, "If a man would preserve the generous glow of patriotism, he
must not reason too much. Mareschal Saxe reasoned; and carried the arms
of France into the heart of Germany, his own country.[120] I act from
sentiment, not from reasonings."
"Virtuous sentiments and habits," said he, "are beyond philosophical
reasonings, which are not so strong, and are continually varying. If all
the professours in Europe were formed into one society, it would no
doubt be a society very respectable, and we should there be entertained
with the best moral lessons. Yet I believe I should find more real
virtue in a society of good peasants in some little village in the
heart of your island. It might be said of these two societies, as was
said of Demosthenes and Themistocles, 'Illius dicta, hujus facta magis
valebant. The one was powerful in words, but the other in deeds.'"
This kind of conversation led me to tell him how much I had suffered
from anxious speculations. With a mind naturally inclined to melancholy,
and a keen desire of inquiry, I had intensely applied myself to
metaphysical researches, and reasoned beyond my depth, on such subjects
as it is not given to man to know. I told him I had rendered my mind a
camera obscura, that in the very heat of youth I felt the "non est
tanti," the "omnia vanitas" of one who has exhausted all the sweets of
his being, and is weary with dull repetition. I told him that I had
almost become for ever incapable of taking a part in active life.
"All this," said Paoli, "is melancholy. I have also studied
metaphysicks. I know the arguments for fate and free-will, for the
materiality and immateriality of the soul, and even the subtile
arguments for and against the existence of matter. 'Ma lasciamo queste
dispute ai oziosi. But let us leave these disputes to the idle. Io tengo
sempre fermo un gran pensiero. I hold always firm one great object. I
never feel a moment of despondency.'"[121]
The contemplation of such a character really existing, was of more
service to me than all I had been able to draw from books, from
conversation, or from the exertions of my own mind. I had often enough
formed the idea of a man continually such as I could conceive in my best
moments. But this idea appeared like the ideas we are taught in the
schools to form of things which may exist, but do not; of seas of milk,
and ships of amber. But I saw my highest idea realised in Paoli. It was
impossible for me, speculate as I pleased, to have a little opinion of
human nature in him.
One morning I remember, I came in upon him without ceremony, while he
was dressing. I was glad to have an opportunity of seeing him in those
teasing moments, when according to the Duke de Rochefoucault, no man is
a hero to his valet de chambre. The lively nobleman who has a malicious
pleasure in endeavouring to divest human nature of its dignity, by
exhibiting partial views, and exaggerating faults, would have owned that
Paoli was every moment of his life a hero.
Paoli told me that from his earliest years, he had in view the important
station which he now holds; so that his sentiments must ever have been
great. I asked him how one of such elevated thoughts could submit with
any degree of patience, to the unmeaning ceremonies and poor discourse
of genteel society, which he certainly was obliged to do while an
officer at Naples. "O," said he, "I managed it very easily. Ero
connosciuto per una testa singolare, I was known to be a singular man. I
talked and joked, and was merry; but I never sat down to play; I went
and came as I pleased. The mirth I like is what is easy and unaffected.
Je ne puis souffrir long temps les diseurs de bons mots. I cannot endure
long the sayers of good things."
How much superiour is this great man's idea of agreeable conversation to
that of professed wits, who are continually straining for smart remarks,
and lively repartees. They put themselves to much pain in order to
please, and yet please less than if they would just appear as they
naturally feel themselves. A company of professed wits has always
appeared to me, like a company of artificers employed in some very nice
and difficult work, which they are under a necessity of performing.
Though calm and fully master of himself, Paoli is animated with an
extraordinary degree of vivacity. Except when indisposed or greatly
fatigued, he never sits down but at meals. He is perpetually in motion,
walking briskly backwards and forwards. Mr. Samuel Johnson, whose
comprehensive and vigorous understanding, has by long observation,
attained to a perfect knowledge of human nature, when treating of
biography has this reflection. "There are many invisible circumstances
which, whether we read as enquiries after natural or moral knowledge;
whether we intend to enlarge our science, or increase our virtue, are
more important than publick occurrences. Thus Sallust the great master
of nature, has not forgotten in his account of Catiline, to remark, that
'his walk was now quick, and again slow,' as an indication of a mind
revolving something with violent commotion."[122] Ever mindful of the
wisdom of the "Rambler," I have accustomed myself to mark the small
peculiarities of character. Paoli's being perpetually in motion, nay his
being so agitated that, as the same Sallust also says of Catiline,
"Neque vigiliis, neque quietibus sedari poterat. He could not be quieted
either by watching or by repose," are indications of his being as active
and indefatigable as Catiline, but from a very different cause. The
conspiratour from schemes of ruin and destruction to Rome; the patriot
from schemes of liberty and felicity to Corsica.
Paoli told me that the vivacity of his mind was such, that he could not
study above ten minutes at a time. "La testa mi rompa. My head is like
to break," said he. "I can never write my lively ideas with my own hand.
In writing, they escape from my mind. I call the Abbé Guelfucci, Allons
presto, pigliate li pensieri. Come quickly, take my thoughts; and he
writes them."
Paoli has a memory like that of Themistocles; for I was assured that he
knows the names of almost all the people in the island, their
characters, and their connections. His memory as a man of learning, is
no less uncommon. He has the best part of the classicks by heart, and he
has a happy talent in applying them with propriety, which is rarely to
be found. This talent is not always to be reckoned pedantry. The
instances in which Paoli is shewn to display it, are a proof to the
contrary.
I have heard Paoli recount the revolutions of one of the ancient states,
with an energy and a rapidity which shewed him to be master of the
subject, to be perfectly acquainted with every spring and movement of
the various events. I have heard him give what the French call, "Une
catalogue raisonnée" of the most distinguished men in antiquity. His
characters of them were concise, nervous and just. I regret that the
fire with which he spoke upon such occasions, so dazzled me that I could
not recollect his sayings so as to write them down when I retired from
his presence.[123]
He just lives in the times of antiquity. He said to me, "A young man who
would form his mind to glory, must not read modern memoirs; mà
Plutarcho, mà Tito Livio; but Plutarch and Titus Livius."
I have seen him fall into a sort of reverie, and break out into sallies
of the grandest and noblest enthusiasm. I recollect two instances of
this. "What a thought? that thousands owe their happiness to you!" And
throwing himself into an attitude, as if he saw the lofty mountain of
fame before him. "There is my object (pointing to the summit); if I
fall, I fall at least There (pointing a good way up) magnis tamen
excidit ausis."
I ventured to reason like a libertine, that I might be confirmed in
virtuous principles by so illustrious a preceptour.[124] I made light of
moral feelings. I argued that conscience was vague and uncertain; that
there was hardly any vice but what men might be found who have been
guilty of it without remorse. "But," said he, "there is no man who has
not a horrour at some vice. Different vices and different virtues have
the strongest impression on different men! Mà il virtù in astratto è il
nutrimento dei nostri cuori. But virtue in the abstract, is the food of
our hearts."
Talking of Providence, he said to me with that earnestness with which a
man speaks who is anxious to be believed: "I tell you on the word of an
honest man, it is impossible for me not to be persuaded that God
interposes to give freedom to Corsica. A people oppressed like the
Corsicans, are certainly worthy of divine assistance. When we were in
the most desperate circumstances, I never lost courage, trusting as I
did in Providence." I ventured to object: "But why has not Providence
interposed sooner?" He replied with a noble, serious and devout air,
"Because his ways are unsearchable. I adore him for what he hath done. I
revere him in what he hath not done."
I gave Paoli the character of my revered friend Mr. Samuel Johnson. I
have often regreted that illustrious men such as humanity produces a few
times in the revolution of many ages, should not see each other; and
when such arise in the same age, though at the distance of half the
globe, I have been astonished how they could forbear to meet.
"As steel sharpneth steel, so doth a man the countenance of his friend,"
says the wise monarch. What an idea may we not form of an interview
between such a scholar and philosopher as Mr. Johnson, and such a
legislatour and general as Paoli![125]
I repeated to Paoli several of Mr. Johnson's sayings, so remarkable for
strong sense and original humour. I now recollect these two.
When I told Mr. Johnson that a certain authour affected in conversation
to maintain, that there was no distinction between virtue and vice, he
said, "Why Sir, if the fellow does not think as he speaks, he is lying;
and I see not what honour he can propose to himself from having the
character of a lyar. But if he does really think that there is no
distinction between virtue and vice, why Sir, when he leaves our houses
let us count our spoons."[126]
Of modern infidels and innovatours, he said, "Sir, these are all vain
men, and will gratify themselves at any expence. Truth will not afford
sufficient food to their vanity; so they have betaken themselves to
errour. Truth Sir, is a cow which will yield such people no more milk,
and so they are gone to milk the bull."[127]
I felt an elation of mind to see Paoli delighted with the sayings of Mr.
Johnson, and to hear him translate them with Italian energy to the
Corsican heroes.
I repeated Mr. Johnson's sayings as nearly as I could, in his own
peculiar forcible language,[128] for which, prejudiced or little
criticks have taken upon them to find fault with him. He is above making
any answer to them, but I have found a sufficient answer in a general
remark in one of his excellent papers. "Difference of thoughts will
produce difference of language. He that thinks with more extent than
another, will want words of larger meaning."[129]
I hope to be pardoned for this digression, wherein I pay a just tribute
of veneration and gratitude to one from whose writings and conversation
I have received instructions of which I experience the value in every
scene of my life.
During Paoli's administration there have been few laws made in Corsica.
He mentioned one which he has found very efficacious in curbing that
vindictive spirit of the Corsicans, of which I have said a good deal in
a former part of this work. There was among the Corsicans a most
dreadful species of revenge, called "Vendetta trasversa, Collateral
revenge," which Petrus Cyrnaeus candidly acknowledges. It was this. If a
man had received an injury, and could not find a proper opportunity to
be revenged on his enemy personally, he revenged himself on one of his
enemy's relations. So barbarous a practice, was the source of
innumerable assassinations. Paoli knowing that the point of honour was
every thing to the Corsicans, opposed it to the progress of the blackest
of crimes, fortified by long habits. He made a law, by which it was
provided, that this collateral revenge should not only be punished with
death, as ordinary murther, but the memory of the offender should be
disgraced for ever by a pillar of infamy. He also had it enacted that
the same statute should extend to the violatours of an oath of
reconciliation, once made.
By thus combating a vice so destructive, he has, by a kind of shock of
opposite passions, reduced the fiery Corsicans to a state of mildness,
and he assured me that they were now all fully sensible of the equity of
that law.
While I was at Sollacarò information was received that the poor wretch
who strangled the woman at the instigation of his mistress had consented
to accept of his life, upon condition of becoming hangman. This made a
great noise among the Corsicans, who were enraged at the creature, and
said their nation was now disgraced. Paoli did not think so. He said to
me, "I am glad of this. It will be of service. It will contribute to
form us to a just subordination.[130] We have as yet too great an
equality among us. As we must have Corsican taylours and Corsican
shoemakers, we must also have a Corsican hangman."
I could not help being of a different opinion. The occupations of a
taylour and a shoemaker, though mean, are not odious. When I afterwards
met M. Rousseau in England, and made him a report of my Corsican
expedition, he agreed with me in thinking that it would be something
noble for the brave islanders to be able to say that there was not a
Corsican but who would rather suffer death than become a hangman; and he
also agreed with me, that it might have a good effect to have always a
Genoese for the hangman of Corsica.
I must, however, do the Genoese the justice to observe that Paoli told
me, that even one of them had suffered death in Corsica, rather than
consent to become hangman. When I, with a keenness natural enough in a
Briton born with an abhorrence at tyranny, talked with violence against
the Genoese, Paoli said with a moderation and candour which ought to do
him honour even with the republick, "It is true the Genoese are our
enemies; but let us not forget that they are the descendants of those
worthies who carried their arms beyond the Hellespont."
There is one circumstance in Paoli's character which I present to my
readers with caution, knowing how much it may be ridiculed in an age
when mankind are so fond of incredulity, that they seem to pique
themselves in contracting their circle of belief as much as possible.
But I consider this infidel rage as but a temporary mode of the human
understanding, and am well persuaded that e'er long we shall return to a
more calm philosophy.
I own I cannot help thinking that though we may boast some improvements
in science, and in short, superior degrees of knowledge in things where
our faculties can fully reach, yet we should not assume to ourselves
sounder judgements than those of our fathers; I will therefore venture
to relate that Paoli has at times extraordinary impressions of distant
and future events.
The way in which I discovered it was this: Being very desirous of
studying so exalted a character, I so far presumed upon his goodness to
me, as to take the liberty of asking him a thousand questions with
regard to the most minute and private circumstances of his life. Having
asked him one day when some of his nobles were present, whether a mind
so active as his was employed even in sleep, and if he used to dream
much, Signor Casa Bianca said, with an air and tone which implied
something of importance, "Sì, si sogna. Yes, he dreams." And upon my
asking him to explain his meaning, he told me that the General had often
seen in his dreams, what afterwards came to pass. Paoli confirmed this
by several instances. Said he, "I can give you no clear explanation of
it. I only tell you facts. Sometimes I have been mistaken, but in
general these visions have proved true. I cannot say what may be the
agency of invisible spirits. They certainly must know more than we do;
and there is nothing absurd in supposing that God should permit them to
communicate their knowledge to us."
He went into a most curious and pleasing disquisition on a subject,
which the late ingenious Mr. Baxter has treated in a very philosophical
manner, in his "Inquiry into the Nature of the Human Soul;"[131] a book
which may be read with as much delight, and surely with more advantage
than the works of those who endeavour to destroy our belief. Belief is
favourable to the human mind, were it for nothing else but to furnish it
entertainment. An infidel I should think must frequently suffer from
ennui.
It was perhaps affectation in Socrates to say, that all he had learned
to know was that he knew nothing. But surely it is a mark of wisdom, to
be sensible of the limited extent of human knowledge, to examine with
reverence the ways of God, nor presumptuously reject any opinion which
has been held by the judicious and the learned, because it has been made
a cloak for artifice, or had a variety of fictions raised upon it by
credulity.
Old Feltham says, "Every dream is not to be counted of; nor yet are all
to be cast away with contempt. I would neither be a Stoick,
superstitious in all; nor yet an Epicure, considerate of none."[132] And
after observing how much the ancients attended to the interpretation of
dreams, he adds, "Were it not for the power of the gospel in crying down
the vains[133] of men, it would appear a wonder how a science so
pleasing to humanity, should fall so quite to ruin."[134]
The mysterious circumstance in Paoli's character which I have ventured
to relate, is universally believed in Corsica. The inhabitants of that
island, like the Italians, express themselves much by signs. When I
asked one of them if there had been many instances of the General's
foreseeing future events, he grasped a large bunch of his hair, and
replied, "Tante, Signore, So many, Sir."
It may be said that the General has industriously propagated this
opinion, in order that he might have more authority in civilizing a rude
and ferocious people, as Lycurgus pretended to have the sanction of the
oracle at Delphos, as Numa gave it out that he had frequent interviews
with the nymph Egeria, or as Marius persuaded the Romans that he
received divine communications from a hind. But I cannot allow myself to
suppose that Paoli ever required the aid of pious frauds.
Paoli, though never familiar, has the most perfect ease of behaviour.
This is a mark of a real great character. The distance and reserve which
some of our modern nobility affect is, because nobility is now little
else than a name in comparison of what it was in ancient times. In
ancient times, noblemen lived at their country seats, like princes, in
hospitable grandeur. They were men of power, and every one of them could
bring hundreds of followers into the field. They were then open and
affable. Some of our modern nobility are so anxious to preserve an
appearance of dignity which they are sensible cannot bear an
examination, that they are afraid to let you come near them. Paoli is
not so. Those about him come into his apartment at all hours, wake him,
help him on with his clothes, are perfectly free from restraint; yet
they know their distance, and, awed by his real greatness, never lose
their respect for him.
Though thus easy of access, particular care is taken against such
attempts upon the life of the illustrious Chief, as he has good reason
to apprehend from the Genoese, who have so often employed assassination
merely in a political view, and who would gain so much by assassinating
Paoli. A certain number of soldiers are continually on guard upon him;
and as still closer guards, he has some faithful Corsican dogs. Of these
five or six sleep, some in his chamber, and some at the outside of the
chamber-door. He treats them with great kindness, and they are strongly
attached to him. They are extremely sagacious, and know all his friends
and attendants. Were any person to approach the General during the
darkness of the night, they would instantly tear him in pieces.
Having dogs for his attendants, is another circumstance about Paoli
similar to the heroes of antiquity. Homer represents Telemachus so
attended.
δυω κυνες αργοι 'εποντο,
—Homer, "Odyss.," lib. ii., l. 11.
"Two dogs a faithful guard attend behind."
—Pope.
|
But the description given of the family of Patroclus applies better to
Paoli.
Εννεα τω γε ανακτι τραπεζηες κυνες ησαν,
—Homer, "Iliad," lib. xxiii., l. 73.
"Nine large dogs domestick at his board."
—Pope.
|
Mr. Pope, in his notes on the second book of the "Odyssey," is much
pleased with dogs being introduced, as it furnishes an agreeable
instance of ancient simplicity. He observes that Virgil thought this
circumstance worthy of his imitation, in describing old Evander.[135] So
we read of Syphax, general of the Numidians, "Syphax inter duos canes
stans, Scipionem appellavit.[136] Syphax standing between two dogs
called to Scipio."
Talking of courage, he made a very just distinction between
constitutional courage and courage from reflection. "Sir Thomas More,"
said he, "would not probably have mounted a breach so well as a sergeant
who had never thought of death. But a sergeant would not on a scaffold
have shewn the calm resolution of Sir Thomas More."
On this subject he told me a very remarkable anecdote, which happened
during the last war in Italy. At the siege of Tortona, the commander of
the army which lay before the town, ordered Carew an Irish officer in
the service of Naples, to advance with a detachment to a particular
post. Having given his orders, he whispered to Carew, "Sir, I know you
to be a gallant man. I have therefore put you upon this duty. I tell you
in confidence, it is certain death for you all. I place you there to
make the enemy spring a mine below you." Carew made a bow to the
general, and led on his men in silence to the dreadful post. He there
stood with an undaunted countenance, and having called to one of the
soldiers for a draught of wine, "Here," said he, "I drink to all those
who bravely fall in battle." Fortunately at that instant Tortona
capitulated, and Carew escaped. But he had thus a full opportunity of
displaying a rare instance of determined intrepidity. It is with
pleasure that I record an anecdote so much to the honour of a gentleman
of that nation, on which illiberal reflections are too often thrown, by
those of whom it little deserves them. Whatever may be the rough jokes
of wealthy insolence, or the envious sarcasms of needy jealousy, the
Irish have ever been, and will continue to be, highly regarded upon the
continent.
Paoli's personal authority among the Corsicans struck me much. I have
seen a crowd of them, with eagerness and impetuosity, endeavouring to
approach him, as if they would have burst into his apartment by force.
In vain did the guards attempt to restrain them; but when he called to
them in a tone of firmness, "Non c'è ora ricorso, No audience now," they
were hushed at once.
He one afternoon gave us an entertaining dissertation on the ancient art
of war. He observed that the ancients allowed of little baggage, which
they very properly called "impedimenta;" whereas the moderns burthen
themselves with it to such a degree, that 50,000 of our present soldiers
are allowed as much baggage as was formerly thought sufficient for all
the armies of the Roman empire. He said it was good for soldiers to be
heavy armed, as it renders them proportionably robust; and he remarked
that when the Romans lightened their arms the troops became
enfeebled.[137] He made a very curious observation with regard to the
towers full of armed men, which we are told were borne on the backs of
their elephants. He said it must be a mistake; for if the towers were
broad, there would not be room for them on the backs of elephants; for
he and a friend who was an able calculatour, had measured a very large
elephant at Naples, and made a computation of the space necessary to
hold the number of men said to be contained in those towers, and they
found that the back of the broadest elephant would not be sufficient,
after making the fullest allowance for what might be hung by ballance on
either side of the animal. If again the towers were high, they would
fall; for he did not think it at all probable that the Romans had the
art of tying on such monstrous machines at a time when they had not
learnt the use even of girths to their saddles. He said he did not give
too much credit to the figures on Trajan's pillar, many of which were
undoubtedly false. He said it was his opinion, that those towers were
only drawn by the elephants; an opinion founded in probability, and free
from the difficulties of that which has been commonly received.
Talking of various schemes of life, fit for a man of spirit and
education; I mentioned to him that of being a foreign minister. He said
he thought it a very agreeable employment for a man of parts and
address, during some years of his life. "In that situation," said he, "a
man will insensibly attain to a greater knowledge of men and manners,
and a more perfect acquaintance with the politicks of Europe. He will be
promoted according to the returns which he makes to his court. They must
be accurate, distinct, without fire or ornament. He may subjoin his own
opinion, but he must do it with great modesty. The ministry at home are
proud."
He said the greatest happiness was not in glory, but in goodness; and
that Penn in his American colony, where he had established a people in
quiet and contentment, was happier than Alexander the Great after
destroying multitudes at the conquest of Thebes. He observed that the
history of Alexander is obscure and dubious; for his captains who
divided his kingdom, were too busy to record his life and actions, and
would at any rate wish to render him odious to posterity.
Never was I so thoroughly sensible of my own defects as while I was in
Corsica. I felt how small were my abilities, and how little I knew.
Ambitious to be the companion of Paoli, and to understand a country and
a people which roused me so much, I wished to be a Sir James
MacDonald.[138]
The last day which I spent with Paoli appeared of inestimable value. I
thought him more than usually great and amiable, when I was upon the eve
of parting from him. The night before my departure, a little incident
happened which shewed him in a most agreeable light. When the servants
were bringing in the desert after supper, one of them chanced to let
fall a plate of walnuts. Instead of flying into a passion at what the
man could not help, Paoli said with a smile, "No matter;" and turning to
me, "It is a good sign for you, Sir, Tempus est spargere nuces, It is
time to scatter walnuts. It is a matrimonial omen: You must go home to
your own country, and marry some fine woman whom you really like. I
shall rejoice to hear of it."
This was a pretty allusion to the Roman ceremony at weddings, of
scattering walnuts. So Virgil's "Damon" says—
"Mopse novas incide faces: tibi ducitur uxor.
Sparge marite nuces: tibi deserit Hesperus Oetam."
—Virg. "Eclog." viii, l. 30.
"Thy bride comes forth! begin the festal rites!
The walnuts strew! prepare the nuptial lights!
O envied husband, now thy bliss is nigh!
Behold for thee bright Hesper mounts the sky!"
—Warton.
|
When I again asked Paoli if it was possible for me in any way to shew
him my great respect and attachment, he replied, "Ricordatevi che Io vi
sia amico, e scrivetemi. Remember that I am your friend, and write to
me." I said I hoped that when he honoured me with a letter, he would
write not only as a commander, but as a philosopher and a man of
letters. He took me by the hand, and said, "As a friend." I dare not
transcribe from my private notes the feelings which I had at this
interview. I should perhaps appear too enthusiastick. I took leave of
Paoli with regret and agitation, not without some hopes of seeing him
again. From having known intimately so exalted a character, my
sentiments of human nature were raised, while, by a sort of contagion, I
felt an honest ardour to distinguish myself, and be useful, as far as my
situation and abilities would allow; and I was, for the rest of my life,
set free from a slavish timidity in the presence of great men, for where
shall I find a man greater than Paoli?
When I set out from Sollacarò I felt myself a good deal indisposed. The
old house of Colonna, like the family of its master, was much decayed;
so that both wind and rain found their way into my bed-chamber. From
this I contracted a severe cold, which ended in a tertian ague. There
was no help for it. I might well submit to some inconveniences, where I
had enjoyed so much happiness.
I was accompanied a part of the road by a great swarthy priest, who had
never been out of Corsica. He was a very Hercules for strength and
resolution. He and two other Corsicans took a castle, garrisoned by no
less than fifteen Genoese. Indeed the Corsicans have such a contempt for
their enemies, that I have heard them say, "Basterebbero le donne contra
i Genovesi, Our women would be enough against the Genoese." This priest
was a bluff, hearty, roaring fellow, troubled neither with knowledge nor
care. He was ever and anon shewing me how stoutly his nag could caper.
He always rode some paces before me, and sat in an attitude half turned
round, with his hand clapped upon the crupper. Then he would burst out
with comical songs about the devil and the Genoese,[139] and I don't
know what all. In short, notwithstanding my feverishness, he kept me
laughing whether I would or no.
I was returning to Corte, but I varied my road a little from the way I
had come, going more upon the low country, and nearer the western shore.
At Cauro I had a fine view of Ajaccio and its environs. My ague was
sometime of forming, so I had frequent intervals of ease, which I
employed in observing whatever occurred. I was lodged at Cauro in the
house of Signor Peraldi of Ajaccio, who received me with great
politeness. I found here another provincial magistracy. Before supper,
Signor Peraldi and a young Abbé of Ajaccio entertained me with some airs
on a violin. After they had shewn me their taste in fine improved
musick, they gave me some original Corsican airs, and at my desire, they
brought up four of the guards of the magistracy, and made them shew me a
Corsican dance. It was truly savage. They thumped with their heels,
sprung upon their toes, brandished their arms, wheeled and leaped with
the most violent gesticulations. It gave me the idea of an admirable war
dance.
During this journey I had very bad weather. I cannot forget the worthy
rectour of Cuttoli, whose house afforded me a hospitable retreat, when
wet to the skin, and quite overcome by the severity of the storm, which
my sickness made me little able to resist. He was directly such a
venerable hermit as we read of in the old romances. His figure and
manner interested me at first sight. I found he was a man well respected
in the island, and that the General did him the honour to correspond
with him. He gave me a simple collation of eggs, chestnuts and wine,
and was very liberal of his ham and other more substantial victuals to
my servant. The honest Swiss was by this time very well pleased to have
his face turned towards the continent. He was heartily tired of seeing
foreign parts, and meeting with scanty meals and hard beds, in an island
which he could not comprehend the pleasure of visiting. He said to me,
"Si J' etois encore une fois retourné à mon pais parmi ces montagnes de
Suisse dont monsieur fait tant des plaisanteries, Je verrai qui
m'engagera à les quitter. If I were once more at home in my own country,
among those mountains of Switzerland, on which you have had so many
jokes, I will see who shall prevail with me to quit them."
The General, out of his great politeness, would not allow me to travel
without a couple of chosen guards to attend me in case of any accidents.
I made them my companions, to relieve the tediousness of my journey. One
of them called Ambrosio, was a strange iron-coloured fearless creature.
He had been much in war; careless of wounds, he was cooly intent on
destroying the enemy. He told me, as a good anecdote, that having been
so lucky as to get a view of two Genoese exactly in a line, he took his
aim, and shot them both through the head at once. He talked of this just
as one would talk of shooting a couple of crows. I was sure I needed be
under no apprehension; but I don't know how, I desired Ambrosio to march
before me that I might see him.
I was upon my guard how I treated him. But as sickness frets one's
temper, I sometimes forgot myself, and called him "bestia, blockhead;"
and once when he was at a loss which way to go, at a wild woody part of
the country, I fell into a passion, and called to him "Mi maraviglio che
un uomo si bravo può esser si stupido. I am amazed that so brave a man
can be so stupid." However by afterwards calling him friend, and
speaking softly to him, I soon made him forget my ill humour, and we
proceeded as before.
Paoli had also been so good as to make me a present of one of his dogs,
a strong and fierce animal. But he was too old to take an attachment to
me, and I lost him between Lyons and Paris. The General has promised me
a young one, to be a guard at Auchinleck.
At Bogognano I came upon the same road I had formerly travelled from
Corte, where I arrived safe after all my fatigues. My good fathers of
the Franciscan convent, received me like an old acquaintance, and shewed
a kind concern at my illness. I sent my respects to the Great
Chancellor, who returned me a note, of which I insert a translation as a
specimen of the hearty civility to be found among the highest in
Corsica.
"Many congratulations to Mr. Boswell on his return from beyond the
mountains, from his servant Massesi, who is at the same time very sorry
for his indisposition, which he is persuaded has been occasioned by his
severe journey. He however flatters himself, that when Mr. Boswell has
reposed himself a little, he will recover his usual health. In the mean
time he has taken the liberty to send him a couple of fowls, which he
hopes, he will honour with his acceptance, as he will need some
refreshment this evening. He wishes him a good night, as does his little
servant Luiggi, who will attend him to-morrow, to discharge his duty."
My ague distressed me so much, that I was confined to the convent for
several days: I did not however weary. I was visited by the Great
Chancellor, and several others of the civil magistrates, and by Padre
Mariani rectour of the university, a man of learning and abilities, as a
proof of which he had been three years at Madrid in the character of
secretary to the General of the Franciscans. I remember a very eloquent
expression of his on the state of his country. "Corsica," said he, "has
for many years past, been bleeding at all her veins. They are now
closed. But after being so severely exhausted, it will take some time
before she can recover perfect strength." I was also visited by Padre
Leonardo, of whose animating discourse I have made mention in a former
part of this book.
Indeed I should not have been at a loss though my very reverend fathers
had been all my society. I was not in the least looked upon as a
heretick. Difference of faith was forgotten in hospitality. I went about
the convent as if I had been in my own house; and the fathers without
any impropriety of mirth, were yet as chearful as I could desire.
I had two surgeons to attend me at Corte, a Corsican and a Piedmontese;
and I got a little Jesuit's bark from the spiceria, or apothecary's
shop, of the Capuchin convent. I did not however expect to be
effectually cured till I should get to Bastia. I found it was perfectly
safe for me to go thither. There was a kind of truce between the
Corsicans and the French. Paoli had held two different amicable
conferences with M. de Marboeuf their commander in chief, and was so
well with him, that he gave me a letter of recommendation to him.
On one of the days that my ague disturbed me least, I walked from the
convent to Corte, purposely to write a letter to Mr. Samuel Johnson. I
told my revered friend, that from a kind of superstition agreeable in a
certain degree to him, as well as to myself, I had during my travels,
written to him from Loca Solennia, places in some measure sacred. That
as I had written to him from the Tomb of Melancthon, sacred to learning
and piety, I now wrote to him from the palace of Pascal Paoli, sacred to
wisdom and liberty; knowing that however his political principles may
have been represented, he had always a generous zeal for the common
rights of humanity. I gave him a sketch of the great things I had seen
in Corsica, and promised him a more ample relation.[140]
Mr. Johnson was pleased with what I wrote here; for I received at Paris
an answer from him which I keep as a valuable charter. "When you return,
you will return to an unaltered, and I hope, unalterable friend. All
that you have to fear from me, is the vexation of disappointing me. No
man loves to frustrate expectations which have been formed in his
favour, and the pleasure which I promise myself from your journals and
remarks, is so great, that perhaps no degree of attention or discernment
will be sufficient to afford it. Come home however and take your chance.
I long to see you, and to hear you; and hope that we shall not be so
long separated again. Come home, and expect such a welcome as is due to
him whom a wise and noble curiosity has led where perhaps, no native of
this country ever was before."[141]
I at length set out for Bastia. I went the first night to Rostino,
hoping to have found there Signor Clemente de' Paoli. But unluckily he
had gone upon a visit to his daughter; so that I had not an opportunity
of seeing this extraordinary personage, of whom I have given so full an
account,[142] for a great part of which I am indebted to Mr. Burnaby.
Next day I reached Vescovato, where I was received by Signor Buttafoco,
who proved superiour to the character I had conceived of him from the
letter of M. Rousseau.[143] I found in him the incorrupted virtues of
the brave islander, with the improvements of the continent. I found him,
in short, to be a man of principle, abilities and knowledge; and at the
same time a man of the world. He is now deservedly raised to the rank of
colonel of the Royal Corsicans, in the service of France.
I past some days with Signor Buttafoco, from whose conversation I
received so much pleasure, that I in a great measure forgot my ague.
As various discourses have been held in Europe, concerning an invitation
given to M. Rousseau to come to Corsica; and as that affair was
conducted by Signor Buttafoco, who shewed me the whole correspondence
between him and M. Rousseau, I am enabled to give a distinct account of
it.
M. Rousseau in his Political Treatise, entitled "Du Contract Social,"
has the following observation: "Il est encore en Europe un pays capable
de législation; c'est l'isle de Corse. La valeur et la constance avec
laquelle ce brave peuple a su recouvrer et défendre sa liberté
mériteroit bien que quelque homme sage lui apprit à la conserver. J'ai
quelque pressentiment qu'un jour cette petite isle étonnera
l'Europe.[144] There is yet one country in Europe, capable of
legislation; and that is the island of Corsica. The valour and the
constancy with which that brave people have recovered and defended its
liberty, would well deserve that some wise man should teach them how to
preserve it. I have some presentiment that one day that little island
will astonish Europe."
Signor Buttafoco, upon this, wrote to M. Rousseau, returning him thanks
for the honour he had done to the Corsican nation, and strongly inviting
him to come over, and be that wise man who should illuminate their
minds.
I was allowed to take a copy of the wild philosopher's answer to this
invitation; it is written with his usual eloquence.
"Il est superflu, Monsieur, de chercher à exciter mon zele pour
l'entreprise que vous me proposez. Sa[145] seule idée m'éleve l'ame et
me transporte. Je croirois la[146] reste de mes jours bien noblement,
bien vertueusement et bien heureusement employés.[147] Je croirois meme
avoir bien racheté l'inutilité des autres, si je pouvois rendre ce
triste reste bon en quelque chose à vos braves compatriotes; si je
pouvois concourir par quelque conseil utile aux vues de votre[148] digne
Chef et aux vôtres; de ce côté-là donc soyez sur de moi. Ma vie et mon
coeur sont à vous."
"It is superfluous, Sir, to endeavour to excite my zeal for the
undertaking which you propose to me. The very idea of it elevates my
soul and transports me. I should esteem the rest of my days very nobly,
very virtuously, and very happily employed. I should even think that I
well redeemed the inutility of many of my days that are past, if I could
render these sad remains of any advantage to your brave countrymen. If
by any useful advice, I could concur in the views of your worthy Chief,
and in yours. So far then you may be sure of me. My life and my heart
are devoted to you."
Such were the first effusions of Rousseau. Yet before he concluded even
this first letter, he made a great many complaints of his adversities
and persecutions, and started a variety of difficulties as to the
proposed enterprise.
The correspondence was kept up for some time, but the enthusiasm of the
paradoxical philosopher gradually subsiding, the scheme came to
nothing.[149]
As I have formerly observed, M. de Voltaire thought proper to exercise
his pleasantry upon occasion of this proposal,[150] in order to vex the
grave Rousseau, whom he never could bear. I remember he used to talk of
him with a satyrical smile, and call him, "Ce Garçon, That Lad;" I find
this among my notes of M. de Voltaire's conversations, when I was with
him at his Chateau de Ferney, where he entertains with the elegance
rather of a real prince than of a poetical one.
To have Voltaire's assertion contradicted by a letter under Paoli's own
hand, was no doubt a sufficient satisfaction to Rousseau.
From the account which I have attempted to give of the present
constitution of Corsica, and of its illustrious Legislatour and General,
it may well be conceived that the scheme of bringing M. Rousseau into
that island, was magnified to an extravagant degree by the reports of
the continent. It was said, that Rousseau was to be made no less than a
Solon by the Corsicans, who were implicitely to receive from him a code
of laws.
This was by no means the scheme. Paoli was too able a man to submit the
legislation of his country to one who was an entire stranger to the
people, the manners, and in short to every thing in the island. Nay, I
know well that Paoli pays more regard to what has been tried by the
experience of ages than to the most beautiful ideal systems. Besides,
the Corsicans were not all at once to be moulded at will. They were to
be gradually prepared, and by one law laying the foundation for
another, a compleat fabrick of jurisprudence was to be formed.
Paoli's intention was to grant a generous asylum to Rousseau, to avail
himself of the shining talents which appeared in his writings, by
consulting with him, and catching the lights of his rich imagination,
from many of which he might derive improvements to those plans which his
own wisdom had laid down.
But what he had principally in view, was to employ the pen of Rousseau
in recording the heroick actions of the brave islanders. It is to be
regretted that this project did not take place. The father of the
present colonel Buttafoco made large collections for many years back.
These are carefully preserved, and when joined to those made by the Abbé
Rostini, would furnish ample materials for a History of Corsica. This,
adorned with the genius of Rousseau, would have been one of the noblest
monuments of modern times.
Signor Buttafoco accompanied me to Bastia. It was comfortable to enter a
good warm town after my fatigues. We went to the house of Signor
Morelli, a counsellor at law here, with whom we supped. I was lodged for
that night by a friend of Signor Buttafoco, in another part of the town.
Next morning I waited on M. de Marboeuf. Signor Buttafoco introduced me
to him, and I presented him the letter of recommendation from Paoli. He
gave me a most polite reception. The brilliancy of his levee pleased me;
it was a scene so different from those which I had been for some time
accustomed to see. It was like passing at once from a rude and early
age to a polished modern age; from the mountains of Corsica to the banks
of the Seine.
My ague was now become so violent that it got the better of me
altogether. I was obliged to ask the French general's permission to have
a chair set for me in the circle. When M. de Marboeuf was informed of my
being ill, he had the goodness to ask me to stay in his house till I
should recover; "I insist upon it," said he, "I have a warm room for
you. My servants will get you bouillons, and every thing proper for a
sick man; and we have an excellent physician." I mention all these
circumstances to shew the goodness of M. de Marboeuf, to whom I shall
ever consider myself as under great obligations, His invitation was
given in so kind and cordial a manner, that I willingly accepted of it.
I found M. de Marboeuf a worthy open-hearted Frenchman. It is a common
and a very just remark, that one of the most agreeable characters in the
world is a Frenchman who has served long in the army, and has arrived at
that age when the fire of youth is properly tempered. Such a character
is gay without levity, and judicious without severity. Such a character
was the Count de Marboeuf, of an ancient family in Britanny, where there
is more plainness of character than among the other French. He had been
Gentilhomme de la Chambre to the worthy King Stanislaus.
He took a charge of me as if he had been my near relation. He furnished
me with books and every thing he could think of to amuse me. While the
physician ordered me to be kept very quiet, M. de Marboeuf would allow
nobody to go near me, but payed me a friendly visit alone. As I grew
better he gradually encreased my society, bringing with him more and
more of his officers; so that I had at last the honour of very large
companies in my apartment. The officers were polite agreeable men: some
of them had been prisoners in England, during the last war. One of them
was a Chevalier de St. Louis, of the name of Douglas, a descendant of
the illustrious house of Douglas in Scotland, by a branch settled near
to Lyons. This gentleman often came and sat with me. The idea of our
being in some sort countrymen, was pleasing to us both.
I found here an English woman of Penrith in Cumberland. When the
Highlanders marched through that country in the year 1745, she had
married a soldier of the French picquets in the very midst of all the
confusion and danger, and when she could hardly understand one word he
said. Such freaks will love sometimes take.
"Sic visum Veneri; cui placet impares
Formas atque animos sub juga ahenea
Saevo mittere cum joco."
—Horat. lib. i., Od. 33.
"So Venus wills, whose power controuls
The fond affections of our souls;
With sportive cruelty she binds
Unequal forms, unequal minds."
—Francis.
|
M. de la Chapelle was the physician who attended me. He had been several
years physician to the army at Minorca, and had now the same office in
Corsica. I called him the physician of the isles. He was indeed an
excellent one. That gayeté de coeur which the French enjoy, runs through
all their professions. I remember the phrase of an English common
soldier who told me, "that at the battle of Fontenoy, his captain
received a shot in the breast, and fell," said the soldier, "with his
spontoon in his hand, as prettily killed as ever I see'd a gentleman."
The soldier's phrase might be used in talking of almost every thing
which the French do. I may say I was prettily cured by M. de la
Chapelle.
But I think myself bound to relate a circumstance which shews him and
his nation in the genteelest light. Though he attended me with the
greatest assiduity, yet, when I was going away, he would not accept of a
single Louis d'or. "No Sir," said he, "I am nobly paid by my king. I am
physician to his army here. If I can at the same time, be of service to
the people of the country, or to any gentleman who may come among us, I
am happy. But I must be excused from taking money." M. Brion the surgeon
major behaved in the same manner.
As soon as I had gathered a little strength, I walked about as well as I
could; and saw what was to be seen at Bastia. Signor Morelli was
remarkably obliging. He made me presents of books and antiques, and of
every other curiosity relating to Corsica. I never saw a more generous
man. Signor Carassa, a Corsican officer in the service of France, with
the order of St. Louis, was also very obliging. Having made a longer
stay in Corsica than I intended, my finances were exhausted, and he let
me have as much money as I pleased. M. Barlé, secretary to M. de
Marboeuf, was also very obliging. In short, I know not how to express my
thankfulness to all the good people whom I saw at Bastia.
The French seemed to agree very well with the Corsicans. Of old, those
islanders were much indebted to the interposition of France in their
favour. But since the days of Sampiero, there have been many variances
between them. A singular one happened in the reign of Lewis XIV. The
Pope's Corsican guards in some fit of passion insulted the French
ambassadour at Rome.[151] The superb monarch resolved to revenge this
outrage. But Pope Alexander VII. foreseeing the consequences, agreed to
the conditions required by France; which were, that the Corsican guards
should be obliged to depart the ecclesiastical state, that the nation
should be declared incapable ever to serve the holy see, and, that
opposite to their ancient guard-house, should be erected a pyramid
inscribed with their disgrace.[152]
Le Brun, whose royal genius could magnify and enrich every circumstance
in honour of his sovereign, has given this story as a medallion on one
of the compartments of the great gallery at Versailles. France appears
with a stately air, shewing to Rome the design of the pyramid; and Rome,
though bearing a shield marked S.P.Q.R. receives the design with most
submissive humility.
I wish that France had never done the Corsicans greater harm than
depriving them of the honour of being the Pope's guards. Boisseux and
Maillebois[153] cannot easily be forgotten; nor can the brave islanders
be blamed for complaining that a powerful nation should interpose to
retard their obtaining entire possession of their country and of
undisturbed freedom.
M. de Marboeuf appeared to conduct himself with the greatest prudence
and moderation. He told me that he wished to preserve peace in Corsica.
He had entered into a convention with Paoli, mutually to give up such
criminals as should fly into each others territories. Formerly not one
criminal in a hundred was punished. There was no communication between
the Corsicans and the Genoese; and if a criminal could but escape from
the one jurisdiction to the other, he was safe. This was very easily
done, so that crimes from impunity were very frequent. By this equitable
convention, justice has been fully administered.
Perhaps indeed the residence of the French in Corsica, has, upon the
whole, been an advantage to the patriots. There have been markets twice
a week at the frontiers of each garrison-town, where the Corsican
peasants have sold all sorts of provisions, and brought in a good many
French crowns; which have been melted down into Corsican money. A
cessation of arms for a few years has been a breathing time to the
nation, to prepare itself for one great effort, which will probably end
in a total expulsion of the Genoese. A little leisure has been given for
attending to civil improvements, towards which the example of the French
has in no small degree contributed. Many of the soldiers were excellent
handi-craftsmen, and could instruct the natives in various arts.
M. de Marboeuf entertained himself by laying out several elegant pieces
of pleasure ground; and such were the humane and amicable dispositions
of this respectable officer, that he was at pains to observe what things
were most wanted in Corsica, and then imported them from France, in
order to shew an example to the inhabitants. He introduced, in
particular, the culture of potatoes, of which there were none in the
island upon his arrival.[154] This root will be of considerable service
to the Corsicans, it will make a wholesome variety in their food; and as
there will thereby, of consequence, be less home consumption of
chestnuts, they will be able to export a greater quantity of them.
M. de Marboeuf made merry upon the reports which had been circulated,
that I was no less than a minister from the British court. The "Avignon
Gazette" brought us one day information that the English were going to
establish Un Bureau de Commerce in Corsica. "O Sir," said he, "the
secret is out. I see now the motive of your destination to these parts.
It is you who are to establish this Bureau de Commerce."
Idle as these rumours were, it is a fact that, when I was at Genoa,
Signor Gherardi, one of their secretaries of state, very seriously told
me, "Monsieur, vous m'avez fait trembler quoique je ne vous ai jamais
vu. Sir, you have made me tremble although I never saw you before." And
when I smiled and assured him that I was just a simple traveller, he
shook his head; but said, he had very authentick information concerning
me. He then told me with great gravity, "That while I travelled in
Corsica, I was drest in scarlet and gold; but when I payed my respects
to the Supreme Council at Corte, I appeared in a full suit of black."
These important truths I fairly owned to him, and he seemed to exult
over me.
I was more and more obliged to M. de Marboeuf. When I was allowed by my
physician, to go to his Excellency's table where we had always a large
company, and every thing in great magnificence, he was so careful of
me, that he would not suffer me to eat any thing, or taste a glass of
wine, more than was prescribed for me. He used to say, "I am here both
physician and commander in chief; so you must submit." He very politely
prest me to make some stay with him, saying, "We have taken care of you
when sick, I think we have a claim to you for a while, when in health."
His kindness followed me after I left him. It procured me an agreeable
reception from M. Michel, the French chargé d'affaires at Genoa; and was
the occasion of my being honoured with great civilities at Paris, by M.
L'Abbé de Marboeuf conseiller d'etat, brother of the Count, and
possessing similar virtues in private life.
I quitted Corsica with reluctance, when I thought of the illustrious
Paoli. I wrote to him from Bastia, informing him of my illness, which I
said, was owing to his having made me a man of so much consequence, that
instead of putting me into a snug little room, he had lodged me in the
magnificent old palace, where the wind and rain entered.
His answer to my first letter is written with so much spirit, that I
begged his permission to publish it, which he granted in the genteelest
manner, saying, "I do not remember the contents of the letter; but I
have such a confidence in Mr. Boswell, that I am sure he would not
publish it if there was any thing in it improper for publick view; so he
has my permission." I am thus enabled to present my readers with an
original letter from Paoli.
"TO JAMES BOSWELL, Esq.,
"OF AUCHINLECK, SCOTLAND.
"STIMATISSIMO SIGNOR BOSWELL.
"Ricevei la lettera che mi favori da Bastia, e mi consolo assai colla
notizia di essersi rimessa in perfetta salute. Buon per lei che cadde in
mano di un valente medico! Quando altra volta il disgusto de' paesi
colti, ed ameni lo prendesse, e lo portasse in questa infelice contrada,
procurerò che sia alloggiata in camere più calde, e custodita di quelle
della casa Colonna in Sollacarò; mà ella ancora dovrà contentarsi di non
viaggiare quando la giornata, e la stagione vogliono che si resti in
casa per attendere il tempo buono. Io resto ora impaziente per la
lettera che ha promesso scrivermi da Genova, dove dubito assai che la
delicatezza di quelle dame non le abbia fatto fare qualche giorno di
quarantena, per ispurgarsi di ogni anche più leggiero influsso, che
possa avere portato seco dell' aria di questo paese; e molto più, se le
fosse venuto il capriccio di far vedere quell' abito di veluto Corso, e
quel berrettone, di cui i Corsi vogliono l'origine dagli elmi antichi,
ed i Genovesi lo dicono inventato da quelli, che, rubando alla strada,
non vogliano essere conosciuti: come se in tempo del loro governo
avessero mai avuta apprensione di castigo i ladri pubblici? Son sicuro
però, che ella presso avrà il buon partito con quelle amabili, e
delicate persone, insinuando alle medesime, che il cuore delle belle è
fatto per la compassione, non per il disprezzo, e per la tirannia; e
cosi sarà rientrato facilmente nella lor grazia. Io ritornato in Corte
ebbi subito la notizia del secreto sbarco dell' Abbatucci nelle
spiaggie di Solenzara. Tutte le apparenze fanno credere che il medesimo
sia venuto con disegni opposti alla pubblica quiete; pure si è
constituito in castello, e protesta ravvedimento. Nel venire per
Bocognano si seppe, che un capitano riformato Genovese cercava compagni
per assassinarmi. Non potè rinvenirne e vedendosi scoperto si pose alla
macchia, dove è stato ucciso dalle squadriglie che gli tenevano dietro i
magistrati delle provincie oltramontane. Queste insidie non sembrano
buoni preliminari del nostro accomodamento colla republica di Genova. Io
sto passando il sindicato a questa provincia di Nebbio. Verso il 10
dell' entrante anderò per l'istesso oggetto in quella del Capocorso, ed
il mese di Febrajo facilmente mi trattenerò in Balagna. Ritornerò poi in
Corte alla primavera, per prepararmi all' apertura della consulta
generale. In ogni luogo avrò presente la sua amicizia, e sarò desideroso
de' continui suoi riscontri. Frattanto ella mi creda.
"Suo affettuosissimo amico
"Pasquale de' Paoli."
"Patrimonio, 23 Decembre, 1765."
"MUCH ESTEEMED Mr. BOSWELL,
"I received the letter which you wrote to me from Bastia, and am much
comforted by hearing that you are restored to perfect health. It is
lucky for you that you fell into the hands of an able physician. When
you shall again be seized with a disgust at improved and agreeable
countries, and shall return to this ill-fated land, I will take care to
have you lodged in warmer and better finished apartments than those of
the house of Colonna, at Sollacarò. But you again should be satisfied
not to travel when the weather and the season require one to keep within
doors, and wait for a fair day. I expect with impatience the letter
which you promised to write to me from Genoa, where I much suspect that
the delicacy of the ladies will have obliged you to perform some days of
quarantine, for purifying you from every the least infection, which you
may have carried with you from the air of this country; and still more
so, if you have taken the whim to show that suit of Corsican velvet[155]
and that bonnet of which the Corsicans will have the origin to be from
the ancient helmets, whereas the Genoese say that it was invented by
those who rob on the high way, in order to disguise themselves; as if
during the Genoese government publick robbers needed to fear punishment.
I am sure however, that you will have taken the proper method with these
amiable and delicate persons, insinuating to them, that the hearts of
beauties are formed for compassion, and not for disdain and tyranny: and
so you will have been easily restored to their good graces. Immediately
on my return to Corte, I received information of the secret landing of
Abbatucci,[156] on the coast of Solenzara. All appearances make us
believe, that he is come with designs contrary to the publick quiet. He
has however surrendered himself a prisoner at the castle, and protests
his repentance. As I passed by Bogognano, I learnt that a disbanded
Genoese officer was seeking associates to assassinate me. He could not
succeed, and finding that he was discovered, he betook himself to the
woods; where he has been slain by the party detached by the magistrates
of the provinces on the other side of the mountains, in order to
intercept him. These ambuscades do not seem to be good preliminaries
towards our accommodation with the republick of Genoa. I am now holding
the syndicato in this province of Nebbio. About the 10th of next month,
I shall go, for the same object, into the province of Capo Corso, and
during the month of February, I shall probably fix my residence in
Balagna. I shall return to Corte in the spring, to prepare myself for
the opening of the General Consulta.[157] Wherever I am, your friendship
will be present to my mind, and I shall be desirous to continue a
correspondence with you. Meanwhile believe me to be
"Your most affectionate friend
"Pascal Paoli."
"Patrimonio, 28 December, 1765."
Can any thing be more condescending, and at the same time shew more the
firmness of an heroick mind, than this letter? With what a gallant
pleasantry does the Corsican Chief talk of his enemies! One would think
that the Queens of Genoa should become Rival Queens for Paoli. If they
saw him I am sure they would.
I take the liberty to repeat an observation made to me by that
illustrious minister,[158] whom Paoli calls the Pericles of Great
Britain. It may be said of Paoli, as the Cardinal de Retz said of the
great Montrose, "C'est un de ces hommes qu'on ne trouve plus que dans
les Vies de Plutarque. He is one of those men who are no longer to be
found but in the lives of Plutarch."