[The reader is informed that "Life in the Far West" is no fiction. The scenes and
incidents described are strictly true. The characters are real, (the names being
changed in two or three instances only,) and all have been, and are, well known
in the Western country.]
"And Mary Brand herself,—what
is she like?"
"She's 'some' now; that is a fact,
and the biggest kind of punkin at
that," would have been the answer
from any man, woman, or child, in
Memphis County, and truly spoken
too; always understanding that the
pumpkin is the fruit to which the
ne-plus-ultra of female perfection is
compared by the figuratively speaking
westerns.
Being an American woman, of
course she was tall, and straight and
slim as a hickory sapling, well formed
withal, with rounded bust, and neck
white and slender as the swan's.
Her features were small, but finely
chiselled; and in this, it may be remarked,
the lower orders of the
American women differ from, and far
surpass the same class in England,
or elsewhere, where the features,
although far prettier, are more
vulgar and commonplace. She had
the bright blue eye, thin nose, and
small but sweetly-formed mouth,
the too fair complexion and dark
brown hair, which characterise the
beauty of the Anglo-American,
the heavy masses (hardly curls)
which fell over her face and neck
contrasting with their polished whiteness.
Such was Mary Brand: and to
her good looks being added a sweet
disposition, and all the good qualities
of a thrifty housewife, it must be allowed
that she fully justified the eulogiums
of the good people of Memphis.
Well, to cut a love-story short, in
the which not a little moral courage
is shown, young La Bonté fell desperately
in love with the pretty Mary,
and she with him; and small blame
to her, for he was a proper lad of
twenty—six feet in his moccassins—the
best hunter and rifle-shot in the
country, with many other advantages
too numerous to mention. But when
did the course, &c. e'er run smooth?
When the affair had become a recognised
"courting," (and Americans
alone know the horrors of such prolonged
purgatory,) they became, to
use La Bonté's words, "awful fond,"
and consequently about once a-week
had their tiffs and makes-up.
However, on one occasion, at a
"husking," and during one of these
tiffs, Mary, every inch a woman, to
gratify some indescribable feeling,
brought to her aid jealousy—that old
serpent who has caused such mischief
in this world; and by a flirtation
over the corn-cobs with Big
Pete, La Bonté's former and only
rival, struck so hard a blow at the
latter's heart, that on the moment his
brain caught fire, blood danced before
his eyes, and he became like one
possessed. Pete observed and enjoyed
his struggling emotion—better
for him had he minded his corn-shelling
alone; and the more to annoy
his rival, paid the most sedulous attention
to the pretty Mary.
Young La Bonté stood it as long
as human nature, at boiling heat,
could endure; but when Pete, in the
exultation of his apparent triumph,
crowned his success by encircling the
slender waist of the girl with his arm,
and snatched a sudden kiss, he
jumped upright from his seat, and
seizing a small whisky-keg which
stood in the centre of the corn-shellers,
he hurled it at his rival, and
crying to him, hoarse with passion,
"to follow if he was a man," he left
the house.
At that time, and even now, in the
remoter states of the western country,
rifles settled even the most trivial
differences between the hot-blooded
youths; and of such frequent occurrence
and invariably bloody termination
did they become, that they
scarcely produced sufficient excitement
to draw together half a dozen spectators
of the duel.
In the present case, however, so
public was the quarrel, and so well
known the parties concerned, that
not only the people who had witnessed
the affair, but all the neighbourhood
thronged to the scene of action, where,
in a large field in front of the house,
the preliminaries of a duel between
Pete and La Bonté were being arranged
by their respective friends.
Mary, when she discovered the
mischief her thoughtlessness was
likely to occasion, was almost beside
herself with grief, but she knew how
vain it would be to attempt to interfere.
The poor girl, who was most
ardently attached to La Bonté, was
carried, swooning, into the house,
where all the women congregated,
and were locked in by old Brand,
who, himself an old pioneer, thought
but little of bloodshed, but refused to
let the "women folk" witness the affray.
Preliminaries arranged, the combatants
took up their respective positions
at either end of a space marked
for the purpose, at forty paces from
each other. They were both armed
with heavy rifles, and had the usual
hunting-pouches, containing ammunition,
hanging over the shoulder.
Standing with the butts of their rifles
on the ground, they confronted each
other, and the crowd drawing away a
few paces only on each side, left one
man to give the word. This was the
single word "fire;" and after this
signal was given, the combatants were
at liberty to fire away until one or the
other dropped.
At the word both the men quickly
raised their rifles to the shoulder, and
as the sharp cracks rung instantaneously,
they were seen to flinch, as
either felt the pinging sensation of a
bullet entering his flesh. Regarding
each other steadily for a few moments,
the blood running down La Bonté's
neck from a wound under the left jaw,
whilst his opponent was seen to place
his hand once to his right breast, as if
to feel the position of his wound, they
commenced reloading their rifles. As,
however, Pete was in the act of forcing
down the ball with his long hickory
wiping-stick, he suddenly dropped his
right arm,—the rifle slipped from his
grasp,—and, reeling for a moment like
a drunken man,—he fell dead to the
ground.
Even here, however, there was law
of some kind or another, and the consequences
of the duel were, that the
constables were soon on the trail of
La Bonté to arrest him. He, however,
easily avoided them, and taking
to the woods, lived for several days in
as wild a state as the beasts he hunted
and killed for his support.
Tired of this, however, he resolved
to quit the country, and betake himself
to the mountains, for which life he
had ever felt an inclination.
When, therefore, he thought the
officers of justice had tired of seeking
him, and the coast was comparatively
clear, he determined to start on his
distant expedition to the Far West.
Once more, before he carried his
project into execution, he sought and
had a last interview with Mary Brand.
"Mary," said he, "I'm about to
break. They're hunting me like a fall
buck, and I'm bound to quit. Don't
think any more about me, for I shall
never come back." Poor Mary burst
into tears, and bent her head on the
table near which she was sitting.
When again she raised it, she saw La
Bonté, with his long rifle on his shoulder,
striding with rapid steps from the
house; and year after year rolled on,
and he never returned.
A few days after this he found himself
at St Louis, the emporium of the
fur trade, and the fast rising metropolis
of the precocious settlements of
the west. Here, a prey to the agony
of mind which jealousy, remorse, and
blighted love mix into a very puchero
of misery, La Bonté got into the company
of certain "rowdies," a class
which every western city particularly
abounds in; and anxious to drown
his sorrows in any way, and quite
unscrupulous as to the means, he
plunged into all the vicious excitements
of drinking, gambling, and fighting,
which form the every-day amusements
of the rising generation of St
Louis.
Perhaps in no other part of the
United States, where indeed humanity
is frequently to be seen in many curious
and unusual phases, is there a population
so marked in its general character,
and at the same time divided into such
distinct classes, as in the above-named
city. Dating, as it does, its foundation
from yesterday,—for what are thirty
years in the growth of a metropolis?—its
founders are now scarcely passed
middle life, regarding with astonishment
the growing works of their hands;
and whilst gazing upon its busy quays,
piled with grain and other produce of
the west, its fleets of huge steamboats
lying tier upon tier alongside the
wharves, its well-stored warehouses
and all the bustling concomitants of
a great commercial depot, they can
scarcely realise the memory of a few
short years, when on the same spot
nothing was to be seen but the few
miserable hovels of a French village—the
only sign of commerce the unwieldy
bateaux of the Indian traders,
laden with peltries from the distant
regions of the Platte and Upper Missouri.
Where now intelligent and
wealthy merchants walk erect, in conscious
substantiality of purse and
credit, and direct the commerce of a
vast and numerously-populated region,
but the other day stalked, in dress of
buckskin, the Indian trader of the
west; and all the evidences of life,
mayhap, consisted of the eccentric
vagaries of the different bands of
trappers and hardy mountaineers, who
accompanied, some for pleasure and
some as escort, the periodically arriving
bateaux, laden with the beaver
skins and buffalo robes collected during
the season at the different trading
posts in the Far West.
These, nevertheless, were the men
whose hardy enterprise opened to commerce
and the plough the vast and fertile
regions of the West. Rough and
savage though they were, they alone
were the pioneers of that extraordinary
tide of civilisation which has
poured its resistless current through
tracts large enough for kings to
govern; over a country now teeming
with cultivation, where, a few short
years ago, countless herds of buffalo
roamed unmolested, the bear and
deer abounded, and where the savage
Indian skulked through the woods
and prairies, lord of the unappreciated
soil which now yields its prolific
treasures to the spade and plough of
civilised man. To the wild and half-savage
trapper, who may be said to
exhibit the energy, enterprise, and
hardihood characteristic of the American
people, divested of all the false
and vicious glare with which a high
state of civilisation, too rapidly attained,
has obscured their real and
genuine character, in which the above
traits are eminently prominent—to
these men alone is due the empire
of the West—destined in a few short
years to become the most important
of those confederate states which compose
the mighty union of North
America.
Sprung, then, out of the wild and
adventurous fur trade, St Louis, still
the emporium of that species of commerce,
preserves even now, in the
character of its population, many of
the marked peculiarities which distinguished
its early founders, who were
identified with the primitive Indian
in hardiness and instinctive wisdom.
Whilst the French portion of the population
retain the thoughtless levity
and frivolous disposition of their original
source, the Americans of St
Louis, who may lay claim to be native,
as it were, are as particularly distinguished
for determination and energy
of character as they are for physical
strength and animal courage; and
are remarkable, at the same time, for
a singular aptitude in carrying out
commercial enterprises to successful
terminations, which would appear to
be incompatible with the love of adventure
and excitement which forms
so prominent a feature in their character.
In St Louis, nevertheless,
and from her merchants, have emanated
many commercial enterprises of
gigantic speculation, not confined to
its own locality or the distant Indian
fur trade, but embracing all parts of
the continent, and even a portion of
the Old World. And here it must be
remembered that St Louis is situated
inland, at a distance of upwards
of one thousand miles from the sea,
and three thousand from the capital of
the United States.
Besides her merchants and upper
class, who form a little aristocracy
even here, she has a large portion of
her population still connected with the
Indian and fur trade, who preserve all
their characteristics unacted upon by
the influence of advancing civilisation,
and between whom and other classes
there is a marked distinction. There is,
moreover, a large floating population
of foreigners of all nations, who must
possess no little amount of enterprise
to be tempted to this spot, from
whence they spread over the remote
western tracts, still invested by the
savage; and, therefore, if any of their
blood is infused into the native population,
the characteristic energy and
enterprise is increased, and not tempered
down, by the foreign cross.
But perhaps the most singular of her
casual population are the mountaineers,
who, after several seasons spent in
trapping, and with good store of
dollars, arrive from the scene of their
adventures, wild as savages, determined
to enjoy themselves, for a time,
in all the gaiety and dissipation of the
western city. In one of the back
streets of the town is a tavern well
known as the "Rocky Mountain
House," and here the trappers resort,
drinking and fighting as long as their
money lasts, which, as they are generous
and lavish as Jack Tars, is for
a few days only. Such scenes as are
enacted in the Rocky Mountain House,
both tragical and comical, are beyond
the powers of pen to describe;
and when a fandango is in progress,
to which congregate the coquettish
belles from "Vide Poche," as the
French portion of a suburb is nicknamed,—the
grotesque endeavours of
the bear-like mountaineers to sport a
figure on the light fantastic toe, and
their insertions into the dance of the
mystic jumps of Terpsichorean Indians
when engaged in the "medicine"
dances in honour of bear, of buffalo,
or ravished scalp,—are such startling
innovations on the choreographic art
as would cause the shade of Gallini to
quake and gibber in his pumps.
Passing the open doors and windows
of the Mountain House, the
stranger stops short as the sounds of
violin and banjo twang upon his ears,
accompanied by extraordinary noises—which
sound unearthly to the greenhorn
listener, but which the initiated
recognise as an Indian song roared
out of the stentorian lungs, of a mountaineer,
who, patting his stomach with
open hands, to improve the necessary
shake, choruses the well-known Indian
chant:—
Hi—Hi—Hi—Hi,
Hi-i—Hi-i—Hi-i—Hi-i
Hi-ya—hi-ya—hi-ya—hi-ya
Hi-ya—hi-ya—hi-ya—hi-ya
Hi-ya—hi-ya—hi—hi,
&c. &c. &c.
and polishing off the high notes with
a whoop which makes the old wooden
houses shake again, as it rattles and
echoes down the street.
Here, over fiery "monaghahela,"
Jean Batiste, the sallow half-breed
voyageur from the north—and who,
deserting the service of the "North-West,"
(the Hudson's Bay Company,)
has come down the Mississippi,
from the "Falls," to try the sweets
and liberty of "free" trapping—hobnobs
with a stalwart leather-clad
"boy," just returned from trapping on
the waters of Grand River, on the
western side the mountains, who interlards
his mountain jargon with
Spanish words picked up in Taos
and California. In one corner a
trapper, lean and gaunt from the starving
regions of the Yellow Stone, has
just recognised an old companyero,
with whom he hunted years before in
the perilous country of the Blackfeet.
"Why, John, old hos, how do you
come on?"
"What! Meek, old 'coon! I thought
you were under?"
One from Arkansa stalks into the
centre of the room, with a pack of
cards in his hand, and a handful of
dollars in his hat. Squatting cross-legged
on a buffalo robe, he smacks
down the money, and cries out—"Ho,
boys, hyar's a deck, and hyar's
the beaver, (rattling the coin,) who
dar set his hos? Wagh!"
Tough are the yarns of wondrous
hunts and Indian perils, of hairbreadth
'scapes and curious "fixes." Transcendant
are the qualities of sundry rifles,
which call these hunters masters;
"plum" is the "centre" each vaunted
barrel shoots; sufficing for a hundred
wigs is the "hair" each hunter has
"lifted" from Indians' scalps; multitudinous
the "coups" he has "struck."
As they drink so do they brag, first of
their guns, their horses, and their
squaws, and lastly of themselves:—and
when it comes to that, "ware steel."
La Bonté, on his arrival at St.
Louis, found himself one day in no
less a place than this; and here he
made acquaintance with an old trapper
about to start for the mountains
in a few days, to hunt on the head
waters of Platte and Green River.
With this man he resolved to start,
and, having still some hundred dollars
in cash, he immediately set about
equipping himself for the expedition.
To effect this, he first of all visited the
gun-store of Hawken, whose rifles are
renowned in the mountains, and exchanged
his own piece, which was of
very small bore, for a regular mountain
rifle. This was of very heavy
metal, carrying about thirty-two balls
to the pound, stocked to the muzzle
and mounted with brass, its only ornament
being a buffalo bull, looking exceedingly
ferocious, which was not
very artistically engraved upon the
trap in the stock. Here, too, he laid in
a few pounds of powder and lead, and
all the necessaries for a long hunt.
His next visit was to a smith's store,
which smith was black by trade and
black by nature, for he was a nigger,
and, moreover, celebrated as being the
best maker of beaver-traps in St
Louis, and of whom he purchased six
new traps, paying for the same twenty
dollars—procuring, at the same time,
an old trap-sack, made of stout buffalo
skin, in which to carry them.
We next find La Bonté and his
companion—one Luke, better known
as Grey-Eye, one of his eyes having
been "gouged" in a mountain fray—at
Independence, a little town situated
on the Missouri, several hundred miles
above St Louis, and within a short
distance of the Indian frontier.
Independence may be termed the
"prairie port" of the western country.
Here the caravans destined for Santa
Fé and the interior of Mexico, assemble
to complete their necessary equipment.
Mules and oxen are purchased,
teamsters hired, and all stores and
outfit laid in here for the long journey
over the wide expanse of prairie
ocean. Here, too, the Indian traders
and the Rocky Mountain trappers
rendezvous, collecting in sufficient
force to ensure their safe passage
through the Indian country. At the
seasons of departure and arrival of
these bands, the little town presents
a lively scene of bustle and confusion.
The wild and dissipated mountaineers
get rid of their last dollars in furious
orgies, treating all comers to galore
of drink, and pledging each other, in
horns of potent whisky, to successful
hunts and "heaps of beaver."
When every cent has disappeared
from their pouches, the free trapper
often makes away with rifle, traps,
and animals, to gratify his "dry," (for
your mountaineer is never "thirsty;")
and then, "hos and beaver" gone, is
necessitated to hire himself to one of
the leaders of big bands, and hypothecate
his services for an equipment of
traps and animals. Thus La Bonté
picked up three excellent mules for a
mere song, with their accompanying
pack saddles, apishamores,[3] and lariats,
and the next day, with Luke,
"put out" for Platte.
As they passed through the rendezvous,
which was encamped on a little
stream beyond the town, even our
young Mississippian was struck with
the novelty of the scene. Upwards
of forty huge waggons, of Connestoga
and Pittsburg build, and covered with
snow-white tilts, were ranged in a
semicircle, or rather a horse-shoe
form, on the flat open prairie, their
long "tongues" (poles) pointing outwards;
with the necessary harness for
four pairs of mules, or eight yoke of
oxen, lying on the ground beside
them, spread in ready order for "hitching
up." Round the waggons groups
of teamsters, tall stalwart young Missourians,
were engaged in busy preparation
for the start, greasing the
wheels, fitting or repairing harness,
smoothing ox-bows, or overhauling
their own moderate kits or "possibles."
They were all dressed in the
same fashion: a pair of "homespun"
pantaloons, tucked into thick boots
reaching nearly to the knee, and confined
round the waist by a broad
leathern belt, which supported a strong
butcher knife in a sheath. A coarse
checked shirt was their only other
covering, with a fur cap on the head.
Numerous camp-fires surrounded
the waggons, and by them lounged
wild-looking mountaineers, easily distinguished
from the "greenhorn"
teamsters by their dresses of buckskin,
and their weather-beaten faces. Without
an exception, these were under
the influence of the rosy god; and one,
who sat, the picture of misery, at a
fire by himself—staring into the blaze
with vacant countenance, his long
matted hair hanging in unkempt
masses over his face, begrimed with
the dirt of a week, and pallid with the
effects of ardent drink—was suffering
from the usual consequences of having
"kept it up" beyond the usual point,
and now was paying the penalty in a
fit of "horrors"—as delirium tremens
is most aptly termed by sailors and
the unprofessional.
In another part, the merchants of
the caravan and Indian traders were
superintending the lading of the waggons,
or mule packs. These were
dressed in civilised attire, and some
bedizened in St Louis or Eastern
City dandyism, to the infinite disgust
of the mountain men, who look upon
a bourge-way (bourgeois) with most
undisguised contempt, despising the
very simplest forms of civilisation.
The picturesque appearance of the
encampment was not a little heightened
by the addition of several Indians
from the neighbouring Shawnee settlement,
who, mounted on their small
active horses, on which they reclined,
rather than sat, in negligent attitudes,
quietly looked on at the novel scene,
indifferent to the "chaff" which the
thoughtless teamsters indulged in at
their expense. Numbers of mules
and horses were picketed at hand,
while a large herd of noble oxen were
being driven towards the camp—the
wo-ha of the teamsters sounding far
and near, as they collected the scattered
beasts in order to yoke up.
As most of the mountain men were
utterly unable to move from camp,
Luke and La Bonté, with three or
four of the most sober, started in
company, intending to wait on "Blue,"
a stream which runs into the Caw or
Kanzas River, until the "balance" of
the band came up. Mounting their
mules, and leading the loose animals,
they struck at once into the park-like
prairie, and were out of sight of civilisation
in an instant.
It was the latter end of May, towards
the close of the season of
heavy rains, which in early spring
render the climate of this country
almost intolerable, at the same time
that they serve to fertilise and thaw
the soil, so long bound up by the
winter's frosts. The grass was every
where luxuriously green, and gaudy
flowers dotted the surface of the
prairie. This term, however, should
hardly be applied to the beautiful
undulating scenery of this park-like
country. Unlike the flat monotony
of the Grand Plains, here well wooded
uplands clothed with forest trees of
every species, and picturesque dells
through which run clear and bubbling
streams belted with gay-blossomed
shrubs, every where present themselves;
whilst on the level meadowland,
topes of trees with spreading
foliage afforded a shelter to the game
and cattle, and well-timbered knolls
rise at intervals from the plain.
Many clear streams dashing over
their pebbly beds intersect the country,
from which, in the noonday's
heat, the red-deer jump, shaking their
wet sides, as the noise of approaching
man disturbs them; and booming
grouse rise from the tall luxuriant
herbage at every step. Where the
deep escarpments of the river banks
exhibit the section of the earth, a
rich alluvial soil of surprising depth
appears to court the cultivation of
civilised man; and in every feature
it is evident that here nature has
worked with kindliest and most bountiful
hand.
For hundreds of miles along the
western or right bank of the Missouri
does such a country as this extend,
to which, for fertility and natural resources,
no part of Europe can offer even
feeble comparison. Sufficiently large
to contain an enormous population, it
has, besides, every advantage of position,
and all the natural capabilities
which should make it the happy
abode of civilised man. Through this
unpeopled country the United States
pours her greedy thousands, to seize
upon the barren territories of her
feeble neighbour.
Camping the first night on "Black
Jack," our mountaineers here cut each
man a spare hickory wiping-stick for
his rifle, and La Bonté, who was the
only greenhorn of the party, witnessed
a savage ebullition of rage on
the part of one of his companions,
exhibiting the perfect unrestraint
which these men impose upon their
passions, and the barbarous anger
which the slightest opposition to the
will excites. One of the trappers, on
arriving at the camping-place, dismounted
from his horse, and, after
divesting it of the saddle, endeavoured
to lead his mule by the rope up to
the spot where he wished to deposit his
pack. Mule-like, however, the more
he pulled the more stubbornly she
remained in her tracks, planting her
fore-legs firmly, and stretching out
her neck with provoking obstinacy.
If truth be told, it does require the
temper of a thousand Jobs to manage
a mule; and in no case does the wilful
mulishness of the animal stir up
one's choler more than in the very
trick which this one was playing, and
which is a daily occurrence. After
tugging ineffectually for several
minutes, winding the rope round his
body, and throwing himself forward
and suddenly with all his strength,
the trapper actually foamed with
passion; and although he might have
subdued the animal at once by fastening
the rope with a half-hitch round
its nose, with an obstinacy equal to
that of the mule itself he refused to
attempt it, preferring to vanquish her
by main strength. However, this
failed, and with a volley of blasphemous
imprecations the mountaineer
suddenly seized his rifle, and, levelling
it at the mule's head, shot her dead.
Passing the Wa-ka-rasha, a well-timbered
stream, they met a band of
Osages going "to buffalo." These
Indians, in common with some tribes
of the Pawnees, shave the head, with
the exception of a ridge from the
forehead to the centre of the scalp,
which is "roached" or hogged like the
mane of a mule, and stands erect,
plastered with unguents, and ornamented
by feathers of the hawk and
turkey. The naked scalp is often
painted in mosaic with black and red,
the face with shining vermilion.
They were all naked to the breech-clout,
the warmth of the sun having
caused them to throw their dirty
blankets from their shoulders. These
Indians not unfrequently levy contributions
on strangers whom they may
accidentally meet; but they easily
distinguish the determined mountaineer
from the incautious greenhorn,
and think it better to let the former
alone.
Crossing Vermilion, they arrived
on the fifth day at "Blue," where they
encamped in the broad timber which
belts the creek, and there awaited the
arrival of the remainder of the party.
It was two days before they came
up; but the day after, fourteen in
number, they started for the mountains,
striking a trail which follows
the "Big Blue" in its course through
the prairies, which, as they advance to
the westward, are gradually smoothing
away into a vast unbroken expanse
of rolling plain. Herds of antelope
began to show themselves, and some
of the hunters, leaving the trail, soon
returned with plenty of their tender
meat. The luxuriant but coarse grass
they had hitherto seen now changed
into the nutritious and curly buffalo
grass, and their animals soon improved
in appearance on the excellent
pasture. In a few days, without
any adventure, they struck the Platte
River, its shallow waters (from which
it derives its name) spreading over a
wide and sandy bed, numerous sand
bars obstructing the sluggish current,
and with nowhere sufficient water to
wet the forder's knee.
By this time, but few antelope
having been seen, the party became
entirely out of meat; and, one whole
day and part of another having passed
without so much as a sage rabbit
having presented itself, not a few
objurgations on the buffalo grumbled
from the lips of the hunters, who
expected ere this to have reached
the land of plenty. La Bonté killed
a fine deer, however, in the river
bottom, after they had encamped,
not one particle of which remained
after supper that night, but which
hardly took the rough edge off their
keen appetites. Although already in
the buffalo range, no traces of these
animals had yet been seen; and as
the country afforded but little game,
and the party did not care to halt and
lose time in hunting for it, they
moved along hungry and sulky, the
theme of conversation being the well
remembered merits of good buffalo
meat,—of "fat fleece," "hump rib,"
and "tender loin;" of delicious
"boudins," and marrow bones too
good to think of. La Bonté had
never seen the lordly animal, and
consequently but half believed the
accounts of the mountaineers, who
described their countless bands as
covering the prairie far as the eye
could reach, and requiring days of
travel to pass through; but the
visions of such dainty and abundant
feeding as they descanted on set his
mouth watering, and danced before
his eyes as he slept supperless, night
after night, on the banks of the hungry
Platte.
One morning he had packed his
animals before the rest, and was
riding a mile in advance of the party,
when he saw on one side the trail,
looming in the refracted glare which
mirages the plains, three large dark
objects without shape or form, which
rose and fell in the exaggerated light
like ships at sea. Doubting what it
could be, he approached the strange
objects; and as the refraction disappeared
before him, the dark masses
assumed a more distinct form, and
clearly moved with life. A little
nearer, and he made them out—they
were buffalo. Thinking to distinguish
himself, the greenhorn dismounted
from his mule, and quickly hobbled
her, throwing his lasso on the ground
to trail behind when he wished to
catch her. Then, rifle in hand, he
approached the huge animals, and,
being a good hunter, knew well to
take advantage of the inequalities of
the ground and face the wind; by
which means he crawled at length to
within forty yards of the buffalo, who
were quietly cropping the grass, unconscious
of danger. Now, for the
first time, he gazed upon the noble
beast of which he had so often heard,
and longed to see. With coal-black
beard sweeping the ground as he fed,
an enormous bull was in advance of
the others, his wild brilliant eyes
peering from an immense mass of
shaggy hair, which covered his neck
and shoulder. From this point his
skin was bare as one's hand, a sleek
and shining dun, and his ribs well
covered with shaking flesh. As he
leisurely cropped the short curly
grass he occasionally lifted his tail
into the air, and stamped his foot as
a fly or musquito annoyed him—flapping
the intruder with his tail, or
snatching at the itching part with his
ponderous head.
When La Bonté had sufficiently
admired the animal, he lifted his rifle,
and, taking steady aim, and certain of
his mark, pulled the trigger, expecting
to see the huge beast fall over at the
report. What was his surprise and
consternation, however, to see the
animal flinch as the ball struck him,
but gallop off, followed by the others,
and apparently unhurt. As is generally
the case with greenhorns, he
had fired too high, not understanding
that the only certain spot to strike a
buffalo is but a few inches above the
brisket, and that above this a shot is
rarely fatal. When he rose from the
ground, he saw all the party halting
in full view of his discomfiture; and
when he joined them, loud were the
laughs, and deep the regrets of the
hungry at his first attempt.
However, they now knew that they
were in the country of meat; and a
few miles farther, another band of
stragglers presenting themselves,
three of the hunters went in pursuit,
La Bonté taking a mule to pack in
the meat. He soon saw them crawling
towards the band, and shortly
two puffs of smoke, and the sharp
cracks of their rifles showed that
they had got within shot; and when
he had ridden up, two fine buffaloes
were stretched upon the ground.
Now, for the first time, he was initiated
into the mysteries of "butchering,"
and watched the hunters as
they turned the carcass on the belly,
stretching out the legs to support it
on each side. A transverse cut was
then made at the nape of the neck,
and, gathering the long hair of the
boss in one hand, the skin was separated
from the shoulder. It was then
laid open from this point to the tail,
along the spine, and the skin was
freed from the sides and pulled down
to the brisket, but, still attached to
it, was stretched upon the ground to
receive the dissected portions. Then
the shoulder was severed, the fleece
removed from along the backbone,
and the hump-ribs cut off with a
tomahawk. All this was placed upon
the skin; and after the "boudins" had
been withdrawn from the stomach,
and the tongue—a great dainty—taken
from the head, the meat was
packed upon the mule, and the whole
party hurried to camp rejoicing.
There was merry-making in the
camp that night, and the way they
indulged their appetites—or, in their
own language, "throw'd" the meat
"cold"—would have made the heart
of a dyspeptic leap for joy or burst
with envy. Far into the "still
watches of the tranquil night" the
fat-clad "depouille" saw its fleshy
mass grow small by degrees and beautifully
less, before the trenchant blades
of the hungry mountaineers; appetising
yards of well-browned "boudin"
slipped glibly down their throats; rib
after rib of tender hump was picked
and flung to the wolves; and when
human nature, with helpless gratitude,
and confident that nothing of
superexcellent comestibility remained,
was lazily wiping the greasy
knife that had done such good service,—a
skilful hunter was seen to chuckle
to himself as he raked the deep ashes
of the fire, and drew therefrom a pair
of tongues so admirably baked, so
soft, so sweet, and of such exquisite
flavour, that a veil is considerately
drawn over the effects their discussion
produced in the mind of our greenhorn
La Bonté, and the raptures they
excited in the bosom of that, as yet,
most ignorant mountaineer. Still,
as he ate he wondered, and wondering
admired, that nature, in giving him
such profound gastronomic powers,
and such transcendent capabilities of
digestion, had yet bountifully provided
an edible so peculiarly adapted
to his ostrich-like appetite, that after
consuming nearly his own weight in
rich and fat buffalo meat, he felt as
easy and as incommoded as if he had
been lightly supping on strawberries
and cream.
Sweet was the digestive pipe after
such a feast, and soft the sleep and
deep, which sealed the eyes of the
contented trappers that night. It felt
like the old thing, they said, to be
once more amongst the "meat;" and,
as they were drawing near the dangerous
portion of the trail, they felt at
home; although not a night now
passed but, when they lay down on
their buffalo robes to sleep, they could
not be confident that that sleep was
not their last—knowing full well that
savage men were hovering near, thirsting
for their lives.
However, no enemies showed themselves
as yet, and they proceeded
quietly up the river, vast herds of
buffaloes darkening the plains around
them, affording them more than abundance
of the choicest meat; but, to
their credit be it spoken, no more was
killed than absolutely required,—unlike
the cruel slaughter made by most
of the white travellers across the
plains, who wantonly destroy these
noble animals, not even for the excitement
of sport, but in cold-blooded
and insane butchery. La Bonté had
practice enough to perfect him in the
art, and, before the buffalo range was
passed, he was ranked as a first-rate
hunter. One evening he had left the
camp for meat, and was approaching
a band of cows for that purpose,
crawling towards them along the bed
of a dry hollow in the prairie, when
he observed them suddenly jump away
towards him, and immediately after a
score of mounted Indians appeared in
sight, whom, by their dress, he at
once knew to be Pawnees and enemies.
Thinking they might not discover
him, he crouched down in the
ravine; but a noise behind causing
him to turn his head, he saw some
five or six advancing up the bed of
the dry creek, whilst several more
were riding on the bluffs. The cunning
savages had cut off his retreat to
his mule, which he saw in the possession
of one of the Indians. His
presence of mind, however, did not
desert him; and seeing at once that
to remain where he was would be like
being caught in a trap, (as the Indians
could advance to the edge of the bluff
and shoot him from above,) he made
for the open prairie, determined at
least to sell his scalp dearly, and make
"a good fight." With a yell the
Indians charged, but halted when
they saw the sturdy trapper deliberately
kneel, and, resting his rifle
on the wiping-stick, take a steady
aim as they advanced. Full well the
Pawnees know, to their cost, that a
mountaineer seldom pulls his trigger
without sending a bullet to the mark;
and, certain that one at least must
fall, they hesitated to make the onslaught.
Steadily the white retreated
with his face to the foe, bringing the
rifle to his shoulder the instant that
one advanced within shot, the Indians
galloping round, firing the few guns
they had amongst them at long distances,
but without effect. One young
"brave," more daring than the rest,
rode out of the crowd, and dashed at
the hunter, throwing himself, as he
passed within a few yards, from the
saddle, and hanging over the opposite
side of his horse,—presenting no
other mark than his left foot,—discharged
his bow from under the animal's
neck, and with such good aim,
that the arrow, whizzing through the
air, struck the stock of La Bonté's
rifle, which was at his shoulder, and,
glancing off, pierced his arm, inflicting,
luckily, but a slight wound. Again
the Indian turned in his course, the
others encouraging him with loud
war-whoops, and once more passing
at still less distance, drew his arrow
to the head. This time, however,
the eagle eye of the white caught sight
of the action, and suddenly rising from
his knee as the Indian was approaching,
hanging by his foot alone over
the opposite side of the horse, he
jumped towards the animal with outstretched
arms and a loud yell, causing
it to start so suddenly, and swerve
from its course, that the Indian lost
his foot-hold, and, after in vain struggling
to regain his position, fell to the
ground, but instantly rose upon his
feet and gallantly confronted the
mountaineer, striking his hand upon
his brawny chest and shouting a loud
whoop of defiance. In another instant
the rifle of La Bonté had poured
forth its contents; and the brave
Indian, springing into the air, fell
dead to the ground, just as the other
trappers, who had heard the firing,
galloped up to the spot, at sight
of whom the Pawnees, with yells
of disappointed vengeance, hastily
retreated.
That night La Bonté first lifted
hair!
A few days after they reached the
point where the Platte divides into
two great forks:—the northern one,
stretching to the north-west, skirts
the eastern base of the Black Hills,
and sweeping round to the south rises
in the vicinity of the mountain valley
called the New Park, receiving the
Laramie, Medicine Bow, and Sweet-Water
creeks. The other, or "South
Fork," strikes towards the mountains
in a south-westerly direction, hugging
the base of the main chain of the
Rocky Mountains, and, fed by several
small creeks, rises in the uplands of
the Bayou Salado, near which is also
the source of the Arkansa. To the
forks of the Platte the valley of that
river extends from three to five miles
on each side, being enclosed by steep
sandy bluffs, from the summits of
which the prairies stretch away in
broad undulating expanse to the north
and south. The "bottom," as it is
termed, is but thinly covered with
timber, the cotton-woods being scattered
only here and there; but some
of the islands in the broad bed of the
stream are well wooded, which leads
to the inference that the trees on the
banks have been felled by Indians who
formerly frequented this river as a
chosen hunting-ground. As during
the long winters the pasture in the
vicinity is scarce and withered, the
Indians feed their horses on the bark
of the sweet cotton-wood, upon which
they subsist, and even fatten. Thus,
wherever a village has been encamped,
the trunks of these trees strew the
ground, with their upper limbs and
smaller branches peeled of their bark,
and looking as white and smooth as if
scraped with a knife.
On the forks, however, the timber
is heavier and of greater variety, some
of the creeks being well wooded with
ash and cherry, which break the monotony
of the everlasting cotton-wood.
Dense masses of buffalo still continued
to darken the plains, and
numerous bands of wolves hovered
round the outskirts of the vast herds,
singling out the sick and wounded
animals, and preying upon the calves
whom the rifles and arrows of the
hunters had bereaved of their mothers.
The white wolf is the invariable attendant
upon the buffalo; and when one
of these persevering animals is seen, it
is certain sign that buffalo are not
far distant. Besides the buffalo wolf,
there are four distinct varieties common
to the plains, and all more or less
attendant upon the buffalo. These
are the black, the gray, the brown,
and last and least the coyote, or
cayeute of the mountaineers, the
"wach-unkamănet," or "medicine
wolf" of the Indians, who hold the
latter animal in reverential awe. This
little wolf, whose fur is of great thickness
and beauty, although of diminutive
size, is wonderfully sagacious, and
makes up by cunning what it wants
in physical strength. In bands of
from three to thirty they will not unfrequently
station themselves along
the "runs" of the deer and the antelope,
extending their line for many
miles,—and the quarry being started,
each wolf will follow in pursuit until
tired, when it relinquishes the chase to
another relay, following slowly after
until the animal is fairly run down,
when all hurry to the spot and speedily
consume the carcass. The cayeute,
however, is often made a tool of by
his larger brethren, unless, indeed, he
acts from motives of spontaneous charity.
When a hunter has slaughtered
game, and is in the act of butchering
it, these little wolves sit patiently at
a short distance from the scene of
operations, while at a more respectful
one the larger wolves (the white or
gray) lope hungrily around, licking
their chops in hungry expectation.
Not unfrequently the hunter throws a
piece of meat towards the smaller
one, who seizes it immediately, and
runs off with the morsel in his mouth.
Before he gets many yards with his
prize, the large wolf pounces with a
growl upon him, and the cayeute,
dropping the meat, returns to his former
position, and will continue his
act as long as the hunter
pleases to supply him.
Wolves are so common on the
plains and in the mountains, that the
hunter never cares to throw away a
charge of ammunition upon them, although
the ravenous animals are a
constant source of annoyance to him,
creeping to the camp-fire at night,
and gnawing his saddles and apishamores,
eating the skin ropes which
secure the horses and mules to their
pickets, and even their very hobbles,
and not unfrequently killing or entirely
disabling the animals themselves.
Round the camp, during the night,
the cayeute keeps unremitting watch,
and the traveller not unfrequently
starts from his bed with affright, as
the mournful and unearthly chiding of
the wolf breaks suddenly upon his
ear: the long-drawn howl being taken
up by others of the band, until it dies
away in the distance, as some straggler
passing within hearing answers to the
note, and howls as he lopes away.
Our party crossed the south fork
about ten miles from its juncture with
the main stream, and then, passing the
prairie, struck the north fork a day's
travel from the other. At the mouth
of an ash-timbered creek they came
upon Indian "sign," and, as now they
were in the vicinity of the treacherous
Sioux, they moved along with additional
caution, Frapp and Gonneville,
two experienced mountaineers, always
heading the advance.
About noon they had crossed over
to the left bank of the fork, intending
to camp on a large creek where some
fresh beaver "sign" had attracted the
attention of some of the trappers; and
as, on further examination, it appeared
that two or three lodges of that animal
were not far distant, it was determined
to remain here a day or two,
and set their traps.
Gonneville, old Luke, and La Bonté,
had started up the creek, and were
carefully examining the banks for
"sign," when the former, who was in
front, suddenly paused, and looking
intently up the stream, held up his
hand to his companions to signal them
to stop.
Luke and La Bonté both followed
the direction of the trapper's intent
and fixed gaze. The former uttered
in a suppressed tone the expressive
exclamation, Wagh!—the latter saw
nothing but a wood-duck swimming
swiftly down the stream, followed by
her downy progeny.
Gonneville turned his head, and
extending his arm twice with a forward
motion up the creek, whispered—"Les
sauvages."
"Injuns, sure, and Sioux at that,"
answered Luke.
Still La Bonté looked, but nothing
met his view but the duck with her
brood, now rapidly approaching; and
as he gazed, the bird suddenly took
wing, and, flapping on the water,
flew a short distance down the stream
and once more settled on it.
"Injuns?" he asked; "where are
they?"
"Whar?" repeated old Luke,
striking the flint of his rifle, and opening
the pan to examine the priming.
"What brings a duck a-streakin it
down stream, if humans aint behint
her? and who's thar in these diggins
but Injuns, and the worst kind; and
we'd better push to camp, I'm thinking,
if we mean to save our hair."
"Sign" sufficient, indeed, it was to all
the trappers, who, on being apprised
of it, instantly drove in their animals,
and picketed them; and hardly had
they done so when a band of Indians
made their appearance on the banks
of the creek, from whence they galloped
to the bluff which overlooked the
camp at the distance of about six
hundred yards; and crowning this, in
number some forty or more, commenced
brandishing their spears and
guns, and whooping loud yells of
defiance. The trappers had formed a
little breast-work of their packs, forming
a semicircle, the chord of which
was made by the animals standing in
a line, side by side, closely picketed
and hobbled. Behind this defence
stood the mountaineers, rifle in hand,
and silent and determined. The Indians
presently descended the bluff on
foot, leaving their animals in charge of
a few of the party, and, scattering,
advanced under cover of the sage
bushes which dotted the bottom, to
about two hundred yards of the whites.
Then a chief advanced before the rest,
and made the sign for a talk with
the Long-knives, which led to a consultation
amongst the latter, as to the
policy of acceding to it. They were
in doubts as to the nation these Indians
belonged to, some bands of the
Sioux being friendly, and others bitterly
hostile to the whites.
Gonneville, who spoke the Sioux
language, and was well acquainted
with the nation, affirmed they belonged
to a band called the Yanka-taus, well
known to be the most evil-disposed
of that treacherous nation; another
of the party maintaining that they
were Brulés, and that the chief advancing
towards them was the well-known
Tah-sha-tunga or Bull Tail, a
most friendly chief of that tribe. The
majority, however, trusted to Gonneville,
and he volunteered to go out to
meet the Indian, and hear what he
had to say. Divesting himself of all
arms save his butcher-knife, he advanced
towards the savage, who
awaited his approach, enveloped in
the folds of his blanket. At a glance
he knew him to be a Yanka-tau,
from the peculiar make of his moccassins,
and the way in which his face
was daubed with paint.
"Howgh!" exclaimed both as they
met; and, after a silence of a few moments,
the Indian spoke, asking—"Why
the Long-knives hid behind
their packs, when his band approached?
Were they afraid, or were they
preparing a dog-feast to entertain
their friends? That the whites were
passing through his country, burning
his wood, drinking his water, and killing
his game; but he knew that they
had now come to pay for the mischief
they had done, and that the mules and
horses they had brought with them
were intended as a present to their
red friends.
"He was Mah-to-ga-shane," he
said, "the Brave Bear: his tongue
was short, but his arm long; and he
loved rather to speak with his bow
and his lance, than with the weapon
of a squaw. He had said it: the Long-knives
had horses with them and
mules; and these were for him, he
knew, and for his 'braves.' Let the
White-face go back to his people and
return with the animals, or he, the
'Brave Bear,' would have to come
and take them; and his young men
would get mad and would feel blood
in their eyes; and then he would have
no power over them; and the whites
would have to 'go under.'"
The trapper answered shortly.—"The
Long-knives," he said, "had
brought the horses for themselves—their
hearts were big, but not towards
the Yanka-taus: and if they had to
give up their animals, it would be to
men and not squaws. They were not
'wah-keitcha,'[4] (French engagés) but
Long-knives; and, however short
were the tongues of the Yanka-taus,
theirs were still shorter, and their
rifles longer. The Yanka-taus were
dogs and squaws, and the Long-knives
spat upon them."
Saying this, the trapper turned his
back and rejoined his companions;
whilst the Indian slowly proceeded to
his people, who, on learning the contemptuous
way in which their threats
had been treated, testified their anger
with loud yells; and, seeking whatever
cover was afforded, commenced
a scattering volley upon the camp of
the mountaineers. The latter reserved
their fire, treating with cool
indifference the balls which began to
rattle about them; but as the Indians,
emboldened by this apparent inaction,
rushed for a closer position, and
exposed their bodies within a long
range, half-a-dozen rifles rang from
the assailed, and two Indians fell
dead, one or two more being wounded.
As yet, not one of the whites had
been touched, but several of the animals
had received wounds from the
enemy's fire of balls and arrows.
Indeed, the Indians remained at too
great a distance to render the volleys
from their crazy fusees any thing like
effectual, and had to raise their pieces
considerably to make their bullets
reach as far as the camp. After having
lost three of their band killed
outright, and many more being wounded,
their fire began to slacken, and
they drew off to a greater distance,
evidently resolved to beat a retreat;
and retiring to the bluff, discharged
their pieces in a last volley, mounted
their horses and galloped off, carrying
their wounded with them. This
last volley, however, although intended
as a mere bravado, unfortunately
proved fatal to one of the whites.
Gonneville, at the moment, was
standing on one of the packs, in order
to get an uninterrupted sight for a
last shot, when one of the random
bullets struck him in the breast. La
Bonté caught him in his arms as he
was about to fall, and, laying the
wounded trapper gently on the
ground,—they proceeded to strip him
of his buckskin hunting-frock, to examine
the wound. A glance was
sufficient to convince his companions
that the blow was mortal. The ball
had passed through the lungs; and in
a few moments the throat of the
wounded man began to swell, as the
choking blood ascended, and turned
a livid blue colour. But a few drops
of purple blood trickled from the
wound,—a fatal sign,—and the eyes of
the mountaineer were already glazing
with death's icy touch. His
hand still grasped the barrel of his
rifle, which had done good service in
the fray. Anon he essayed to speak,
but, choked with blood, only a few
inarticulate words reached the ears
of his companions, who were bending
over him.
"Rubbed—out—at—last," they
heard him say, the words gurgling in
his blood-filled throat; and opening
his eyes once more, and looking upwards
to take a last look at the bright
sun, the trapper turned gently on his
side and breathed his last sigh.
With no other tools than their
scalp-knives, the hunters dug a grave
on the banks of the creek; and whilst
some were engaged in this work,
others sought the bodies of the Indians
they had slain in the attack, and
presently returned with three reeking
scalps, the trophies of the fight. The
body of the mountaineer was then
wrapped in a buffalo robe, the scalps
being placed on the dead man's breast,
laid in the shallow grave, and
quickly covered—without a word of
prayer, or sigh of grief; for, however
much his companions may have felt,
not a word escaped them; although
the bitten lip and frowning brow told
tale of anger more than sorrow, and
vowed—what they thought would
better please the spirit of the dead
man than sorrow—lasting revenge.
Trampling down the earth which
filled the grave, they placed upon it
a pile of heavy stones; and packing
their mules once more, and taking a
last look of their comrade's lonely
resting-place, they turned their backs
upon the stream, which has ever since
been known as "Gonneville's Creek."
If the reader casts his eye over any
of the recent maps of the western
country, which detail the features of
the regions embracing the Rocky
Mountains, and the vast prairies at
their bases, he will not fail to observe
that many of the creeks or smaller
streams which feed the larger rivers,—as
the Missouri, Platte, and Arkansa—are
called by familiar proper
names, both English and French.
These are invariably christened after
some unfortunate trapper, killed there
in Indian fight; or treacherously
slaughtered by the lurking savages,
while engaged in trapping beaver on the
stream. Thus alone is the memory of
these hardy men perpetuated, at least
of those whose fate is ascertained:
for many, in every season, never
return from their hunting expeditions,
having met a sudden death
from Indians, or a more lingering fate
from accident or disease in some of
the lonely gorges of the mountains,
where no footfall save their own, or
the heavy tread of grizzly bear, disturbs
the unbroken silence of these
awful solitudes. Then, as many winters
pass without some old familiar
faces making their appearance at the
merry rendezvous, their long protracted
absence may perhaps occasion
such remarks, as to where such and
such a mountain worthy can have
betaken himself, to which the casual
rejoinder of "Gone under, maybe,"
too often gives a short but certain
answer.
In all the philosophy of hardened
hearts, our hunters turned from the
spot where the unmourned trapper
met his death. La Bonté, however,
not yet entirely steeled by mountain
life to a perfect indifference to human
feeling, drew his hard hand across
his eye, as the unbidden tear rose
from his rough but kindly heart. He
could not forget so soon the comrade
they had lost, the companionship in
the hunt or over the cheerful camp-fire,
the narrator of many a tale of
dangers past, of sufferings from hunger,
cold, and thirst, and from untended
wounds, of Indian perils, and
of a life spent in such vicissitudes.
One tear dropped from the young
hunter's eye, and rolled down his
cheek—the last for many a long year.
In the forks of the northern branch
of the Platte, formed by the junction of
the Laramie, they found a big village
of the Sioux encamped near the station
of one of the fur companies.
Here the party broke up; many, finding
the alcohol of the traders an impediment
to their further progress, remained
some time in the vicinity,
while La Bonté, Luke, and a trapper
named Marcelline, started in a few
days to the mountains, to trap on
Sweet Water and Medicine Bow.
They had leisure, however, to observe
all the rascalities connected with the
Indian trade, although at this season
(August) hardly commenced. However,
a band of Indians having come
in with several packs of last year's
robes, and being anxious to start
speedily on their return, a trader
from one of the forts had erected his
lodge in the village.
Here, he set to work immediately
to induce the Indians to trade. First,
a chief appointed three "soldiers" to
guard the trader's lodge from intrusion;
and who, amongst the thieving
fraternity, can be invariably trusted.
Then the Indians were invited to
have a drink—a taste of the fire-water
being given to all to incite
them to trade. As the crowd presses
upon the entrance to the lodge, and
those in rear become impatient, some
large-mouthed possessor of many
friends, who has received a portion of
the spirit, makes his way, with his
mouth full of the liquor and cheeks
distended, through the throng, and
is instantly surrounded by his particular
friends. Drawing the face of
each, by turns, near his own, he
squirts a small quantity into his open
mouth, until the supply is exhausted,
when he returns for more, and repeats
the generous distribution.
When paying for the robes, the traders,
in measuring out the liquor in a
tin half-pint cup, thrust their thumbs
or the four fingers of the hand into the
measure, in order that it may contain
the less, or not unfrequently fill
the bottom with melted buffalo fat,
with the same object. So greedy are
the Indians, that they never discover
the cheat, and once under the influence
of the liquor, cannot distinguish
between the first cup of comparatively
strong spirit, and the following
ones diluted five hundred per cent,
and poisonously drugged to boot.
Scenes of drunkenness, riot, and
bloodshed last until the trade is over,
which in the winter occupies several
weeks, during which period the Indians
present the appearance, under
the demoralising influence of the
liquor, of demons rather than men.