Starting one morning for a long ramble in the
country I took the first stage by tram. It was
very early, and as there were no other passengers,
the conductor was disposed to be communicative.
He was absolutely eager to talk, and he came up
to me at once.
Now I have noticed that at one time it is much
easier to express oneself in a foreign language
than at another.
Sometimes the grammar you have mastered becomes
positively oppressive, and your tongue refuses to
lend itself to the task.
I cannot tell whether it may be due to barometric
pressure or to some electrical condition, but
on certain days I cannot—to put it mildly—come
up to my normal standard, either of perspicuity
or ease.
NAAR HET EINDE.
This was one of my bad days, and I was little
inclined to respond to the conductor’s advances.
Fate was against me, however, for I didn’t know
the name of the place I was bound for. Enderby
had several times taken me to a pretty village
some few miles from the Hague. It was the terminus
of the tram-line, and I purposed to tram
there first and then to start out on my country
walk.
I had never troubled much about the geography
of the district, and consequently was quite in the
dark now as to what the village was called.
This was awkward, for the talkative conductor was
already at hand trying to open conversation.
He made a first essay by producing his bunch of
tickets and asking me, “Hoe ver, mijnheer?”
I waved my hand and said, “Den geheelen weg.”
Seeing he was not satisfied with this, I amplified
the remark by adding “Naar het einde.”
As he was still slightly bewildered, I glanced
up to the tram-car itself to ascertain, if possible,
its destination. The designation of the village
would surely be printed somewhere on the vehicle.
Happily I could just make out at the end of a long
series of hard words the name ‘Simplex’. Pointing to this
with a careless flourish of my stick I said “Ja;
ik ga even naar Simplex.”
A ONE-SIDED CONVERSATION.
“Net, mijnheer,” he laughed, “ha! ha!, overal
reclame!”
Before he had recovered from my unconscious
wit, I perceived the error into which I had fallen.
Simplex was merely a cycle-advertisement.
Then I laughed as heartily as he, saying “Gunst
ja; overal”—which emboldened him to be still more
familiar.
He fancied that I was a perfect master of Dutch,
and could even joke in it. He talked most volubly;
and,—my reputation as a linguist being now at
stake,—whenever he made a slight pause I was
obliged to say something to show I understood.
I didn’t understand. But I started him off always
when he was inclined to stop, and I kept him
going by a careful use of ‘ja’ and ‘neen’. If he
appeared to expect agreement, I threw in a hearty
‘natuurlijk’, ‘ja zeker’, or ‘wel van mijn leven.’ At
other points, and for variety’s sake, I interjected
indignant negatives: ‘Wel nee!’ ‘schei er uit!’ ‘Hoe
heb ik het met je?’—and now and then even
‘och kom!’ with the peculiar shake of the head
that accompanies this phrase.
KOLOSSAAL MOOI.
The plan was brilliantly successful. True, he
stopped sometimes and took a long queer look at me;
but he was one of those garrulous people that require
little encouragement, and the flood of his reminiscences
always poured forth again as freely as ever.
We got along famously together—though I
didn’t know one word he said—till we came
opposite a tall church. Nodding patronisingly towards
this building he said, “Pracht van een Kerk”, adding
something about a ‘hooge toren’.
Here I felt on solid ground,—I understood
him thoroughly. My natural wish to take an intelligent
part in the conversation would be gratified if only
I could say something about that edifice; and, one
of the fresh idioms that I had recently acquired
occurring to me, I promptly gave it to him by way
of reply: “Ja, prachtig; het is kolossaal mooi.”
This choice idiom I had got just the day before
from a policeman. We had been standing in front of
a florist’s window—the policeman and I—admiring
the tiny vases of lilies of the valley that were
displayed there, when I heard him murmur half to
himself and half to me “kolossaal mooi!” The
combination so captivated my fancy that I added
it without delay to my working stock.
THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR.
The tram-conductor emphatically agreed with my
criticism. “Kolossaal!” he repeated.
Thus encouraged I attempted to contribute something
further to the conversation, and catching sight
of a lofty lightning-conductor, on the church-steeple,
I tried to draw his attention to it by an easy
grammatical remark.
The word ‘lightning-conductor’ did not seem to
present difficulties.
‘Lightning’ of course I remembered, though I
ought to have forgotten it long ago. No doubt it
was to be approached with caution; but as this
was a matter of pure science I felt tolerably safe.
As for ‘conductor’, there could be little doubt as
as to the way to render that, for ‘conducteur’ was
stamped on the tram-man’s buttons, and had been
staring me in the face for the last half-hour. Those
buttons were as good as a dictionary.
Putting together then the component parts of
‘lightning-conductor,’ I hazarded a bold guess, and
waving my hand towards the steeple I said cordially,
“Ja, de toren is mooi—kolossaal mooi. Gunst; ja.—Zoo
is ook die bliksem-conducteur! Vind U niet?”
TAKE CARE OF YOUR WORDS.
Well, he stopped as if I had struck him; his face
got fiery red, and he walked away without a word!
What had I done? There was no denying something
had gone wrong. Evidently the man was
choking with rage, and he didn’t as much as glance
at me for the rest of the journey.
That same afternoon I reported the affair to
Enderby, who grew quite gruff and crusty before
I had finished the narration.
“Didn’t I warn you”, he grumbled, “against
those horrid expressions that you seem so fond of?
You must really take care, O’Neill,—or I won’t
speak to you as long as you stay in Holland.”
It was useless to assure him that I had referred
to the ‘lightning-conductor’ merely in its permissible
and scientific sense. He would listen to no
explanations. “You simply can’t imagine how shocking
all that talk of yours sounds, or you wouldn’t
attempt to justify your vulgarity.”
“Begging your lordship’s pardon”, I retorted
ironically, “for all my unseemly conduct, may I
enquire humbly what the dignified term is? Onweersconducteur,
perhaps? Or weerlichtsconducteur?”
“Nonsense!” he almost shouted. “The thing’s quite
easy—‘bliksemafleider’.”
A CHARMING WALK.
“Aha,” I could not help retorting, “you see after
all you are in the wrong. You warned me against
lightning—quite needlessly, you now admit—but
you never said a syllable about that really
dangerous word conductor.”
But to return to my trip that lovely morning.
The tram duly reached ‘Simplex’, and the conductor
was unfeignedly relieved to see me alight.
It was perfect weather, and my annoyances were
soon forgotten. There was such a shimmer and haze
and play of light over the wide landscape as I
have seen only in Holland.
I was delighted. Such a scene is an inspiration.
It makes one wish to be a painter or a poet or
something. Subtle and delicate shades varied the
long stretches of green meadow; clumps of trees,
church towers, tiny red-roofed villages dotted the
landscape; while here and there as far as the eye
could reach, wide canals—the very pictures of
tranquillity—reflected the great white clouds sailing
overhead.
“Splendid, splendid!” I exclaimed to myself. And
charming indeed did my ramble prove to be.
NAAST DE PALING.
But the day was hot, and I was glad at last about
eleven o’clock to come to a good-sized tea-garden
over the entrance to which stood in conspicuous letters,
“Uitspanning.” Here was cool shade under broad
trees; and here were innumerable little tables at
which a number of people were seated, laughing and
chattering and lunching pleasantly, while little children,
some of them not more than three years old, kept
running about and playing games. And all these
tiny tots, too, were talking Dutch, happily and
unconcerned, tossing about in childish glee and with
incredible ease, onbepaalde wijzen, verleden deelwoorden
and voorzetsels, not to speak of het and hen
and hun and je.
On entering this popular resort and looking round
I was addressed by a breathless waiter laden with
plates. “Waar wou mynheer zitten?”
The shade was deepest under a noble elm, where
at this instant I spied an unoccupied seat close
to the wooden paling that skirted the enclosure. I
didn’t know what ‘paling’ was, but I chanced it,
as there was no time for the dictionary. “Naast de
paling,” I said, “als ’t U blieft.”
The impatient waiter nearly dropped his tray, but
recovering himself he vanished, and I took the seat
myself. Another kellner appeared,—a slow grave
man in whose district was situated the attractive
nook I had been fortunate enough to secure. The
day was broiling hot, as I told you, and I thought
I couldn’t do better than begin with a little lemon-squash.
LIEMOEN-MOES.
I could have wished to study up my part a little;
but as the slow dignitary was already waiting, I
asked for a “limoen en een glas water.” Having
greeted my remark twice with “blief?” he drew
himself up and enquired if I wanted ‘liemonade.’
“Geen kwestie van,” I said, hauling out of my
pocket the little fat dictionary, that faithful companion
of my wanderings. “Wacht even!” I hurriedly
turned up “squash”; for on the analogy of meloen
I assumed that ‘lemoen’ was all right for lemon.
The verb squash was moezen; the noun moes. This
latter I chose, preferring the beverage ready-made,
if possible.
“Ja, kellner”—I said, “nu weet ik het al.
Breng mij limoenmoes.”
He raised his eyebrows and said: “Bedoelt mijnheer
soms appelmoes?”
Apple squash? That seemed rather a good idea.
It sounded like cider or apple-lemonade.
“Ja, best,” I said; “breng mij een glas appelmoes,
maar niet te sterk.”
A MYSTERIOUS BEVERAGE.
When he was gone to draw some of this mysterious
beverage, who should turn up but Enderby? He
had been motoring; and was coming back from
Amsterdam when some pinion had given way, and
he had to stop at the Uitspanning for repairs. He
came up to me and sat down saying: “Well, O’Neill,
you’re a long way from home; how did you get
here? What are you taking this hot weather?”
“Indeed,” said I, “I don’t exactly know. It’s
apple-squash, or rather a sort of apple lemonade,—cider,
I believe.”
“Ah,” said he with surprise, “you talked English,
I suppose?”
“Not at all,—not a word. I never speak English
now. It was all Dutch.”
“Then I tell you, you have made progress with the
language! For here have I been in Holland for
fifteen years, and I never even heard of apple lemonade
yet. To tell you the truth, I should not know
how to ask for it. My boy, I congratulate you on
your linguistic enterprise!”
The waiter reappeared just then, and Enderby
interposed, “Mynheer heeft iets besteld, nietwaar?
Wat is dat voor een drankje? Geen limonade?”
MELOEN MET APPELMOES.
“Nee, menheer”, said the waiter in a complaining
tone, “volstrekt niet, mynheer is wat vreemd, ziet
u; want,” and here his voice sank to a horrified
whisper, “menheer eet meloen met appelmoes!”
Enderby looked at me in speechless astonishment;
while the waiter murmured, perhaps as a further
suggestion of guilt on my part: “We hebbe geen
paling!”
Matters had got so involved that I could not
explain anything to him; except to say that I had
started with the intention of cooling my thirst with
lemon squash.
He was inclined to be huffy once more. “There
you are at it again! Look here now; do take some
care about what you say. I’ll get that drink for
you this time; and, for any sake if you want ‘kwast’
again, don’t say appelmoes. Indeed I strongly advise
you to stick to English, or you will get into worse
trouble yet.”
Enderby went off in high dudgeon, and I took
a long ramble under the trees. It was not long
till I shook off the effects of my grammatical skirmishes
and began to enjoy the day to the full.
In point of fact I made several sketches, and
returning in a couple of hours had luncheon successfully.
That was comparatively easy. I had merely
to say, “Koffie!—Kaas!”—and the meal was
ready.
DRIVE ME TO THE HAGUE.
Being by this time a trifle tired, I conceived
the idea of driving back to the Hague, for it
seemed too far to walk. In this design I was
encouraged by the presence of a considerable number
of vehicles with horses, standing about.
On examining my dictionary to get the Dutch idiom
for ‘drive home’ I discovered three curious translations
for drive: ‘rijden’, ‘drijven’ (used, I was informed, of
ice) and ‘jagen.’
Now seeing that ‘rijden’, meant ‘to ride’, and
‘jagen,’ to ‘hunt,’ and the other word was restricted
to icebergs, there really appeared to be a lack of the
precise term I needed.
Obliged thus to circumscribe my meaning, I rapped
on my green table and enquired, “Kellner, kan ik
een paard hebben?”
The waiter mumbled inarticulately, coughed apologetically,
and vanished like a shadow.
Presently he came back with a red-faced man
who seemed to be the proprietor of the Uitspanning.
What I wanted to say was, “Have you a horse
disengaged to drive me to the Hague!” but owing
to the defective character of the Dutch vocabulary
this could not be said directly, and I was obliged
to go round the point.
A DREADFUL INTERVIEW.
I went round it thus: “Mag ik beleefd vragen,
Mynheer, heeft U paarden beschikbaar om my te
dragen?”
This sounded diplomatic and neat, and was
certainly clear; but the apoplectic proprietor looked
askance.
He paused and endeavoured to transfix me with
his beady eyes and read my inmost consciousness.
This being impossible, he condescended to the gruff
question: “Wou meneer een peerd koope?”
“Koopen?” I replied in astonishment, “oh niet
koopen! Gunst! ashjeblieft niet.”
“Raie dan?” was his brusque reply.
“Rijen, graag,” I agreed; “gaarne rijden; maar—ik
ben niet in staat het paard terug te zenden.
En ... en ik heb geen ruimte in mijn kamers voor
een paard.”
“Wat dan?” said he rudely, with a kind of a
dull glare in his black eyes.
I was getting into deep water—there was
no use blinking the fact—and here was this
dreadful man growing more enraged and suspicious
every moment. Perhaps after all I could make
something of those three doubtful dictionary words.
“Kan u niet,” I asked with some asperity, “kan
oe niet, mijnheer, mij laten jagen naar den Haag?”
THE IRATE INN-KEEPER.
“O, hé!” exclaimed my interlocutor with a
sudden access of interest and a kind of wrinkle
distantly resembling a smile. “Gaat mijnheer op
de jacht?”
Dear me, this is too bad, I thought, for I saw
people watching me with a curious air of disapproval,
and a good many more approaching. Really I regretted
I had not walked to the Hague.
But I was in for it now, and with all the sternness
I could command I explained sententiously, “Ik
wensch een paard!—Om mij te trekken—in
een rijtuig—naar den Haag, Ferdinand Bolstraat 66a.”
My horsey friend took a step nearer, his face
ominously darkening and the fierce eyes flashing
fire. “Wat wou menheer eigenlijk? rijtuig huren?
of pérd koope!—of raie naar de stad?—of op
de jacht gaan?—of onzin praote?”
I was at my wit’s end and deemed it wise to
retire as soon as possible from the conversation.
This I tried to do by means of that agreeable little
triplet that had hitherto proved so useful to me.
“Och kom!” I said with a pleasant smile, “’t
Geeft niets; het hindert niet; het komt er niet
op aan.”
He was unappeased, however. So by way of
friendly deprecation I added: “Laa maar! Schei er
uit.—Hè! zanik nou niet!”
A HAPPY ESCAPE.
This did not appreciably mend matters, I assure
you.—At every sentence I uttered his face grew
more purple—and I was intensely relieved when
at that moment one of the interested bye-standers
ran up hurriedly, whip in hand, and touching his
cap exclaimed: “Drive you to the Hague, Sir?”—It
was a cabdriver who spoke English!
Oh! I could have embraced that man!
“Yes,” said I with effusion, “Yes, at once, please!—as
quick as ever you can!”
I jumped up on his vehicle and, as the vendor
of peerden was still hovering unpleasantly near, I
ventured on one of those despised French verbs—it
was the only thing I could think of—to construct
an effective phrase for my exit.
VAARWEL.
“Mynheer Uitspanning!” I said waving him adieu,
“ik zal U niet verder derangeeren!—Vaarwel!”
Good-bye at last! There was a faint cheer from
the score or two of spectators, but no response
from my late tormentor.
What a relief to get away from the intricacies
of that dreadful cross-examination!
I was flurried and worn, and did not quite recover
my equanimity or feel properly cooled down till I
was safely ensconced in my rooms in Ferdinand
Bolstraat 66a.