The cook-book is not a modern product.
The Iliad is the hungriest book on
earth, and it is the first of our cook-books
aside from half-sacred, half-sanitary
directions to the early Aryans and
Jews. It is that acme of poetry, that
most picturesque of pictures, that most
historical of histories, that most musical
and delicious verse, the Iliad, which was
the first popularly to teach the cooking
art—the art in its simplicity, and not a
mere handmaid to sanitation, jurisprudence,
or theology. Through the pages
of that great poem blow not only the
salt winds of the Ægean Sea, but also
the savor of tender kid and succulent
pig, not to mention whole hectacombs,
which delighted the blessed gods above
and strengthened hungry heroes below.
To this very day—its realism is so perfect—we
catch the scent of the cooking
and see the appetiteful people eat. The
book is half-human, half-divine; and in
its human part the pleasures and the
economic values of wholesome fare are
not left out.
No, cook-books are not modern products.
They were in Greece later than
Homer. When the Greek states came to
the fore in their wonderful art and literature
and the distinction of a free
democracy, plain living characterized
nearly all the peoples. The Athenians
were noted for their simple diet. The
Spartans were temperate to a proverb,
and their συσσίτια (public meals), later
called φειδίτια (spare meals), guarded
against indulgence in eating. To be a
good cook was to be banished from
Sparta.
But with the Western Greeks, the
Greeks of Sicily and Southern Italy, it
was different—those people who left
behind them little record of the spirit.
In Sybaris the cook who distinguished
himself in preparing a public feast—such
festivals being not uncommon—received
a crown of gold and the freedom
of the games. It was a citizen of that
luxury-loving town who averred, when
he tasted the famous black soup, that it
was no longer a wonder the Spartans
were fearless in battle, for any one
would readily die rather than live on
such a diet. Among the later Greeks the
best cooks, and the best-paid cooks, came
from Sicily; and that little island grew
in fame for its gluttons.
There is a Greek book—the Deipnosophistæ—Supper
of the “Wise Men—written
by Athenæus—which holds for
us much information about the food and
feasting of those old Hellenes. The wise
men at their supposed banquet quote,
touching food and cooking, from countless
Greek authors whose works are now
lost, but were still preserved in the time
of Athenæus. This, for instance, is from
a poem by Philoxenus of Cythera, who
wittily and gluttonously lived at the
court of Dionysius of Syracuse, and
wished for a throat three cubits long
that the delight of tasting might be
drawn out.3
“And then two slaves brought in a well-rubb’d table.
.... Then came a platter
.... with dainty sword-fish fraught,
And then fat cuttle-fish, and the savoury tribes
Of the long hairy polypus. After this
Another orb appear’d upon the table,
Rival of that just brought from off the fire,
Fragrant with spicy odour. And on that
Again were famous cuttle-fish, and those
Fair maids the honey’d squills, and dainty cakes,
Sweet to the palate, and large buns of wheat,
Large as a partridge, sweet and round, which you
Do know the taste of well. And if you ask
What more was there, I’d speak of luscious chine,
And loin of pork, and head of boar, all hot;
Cutlets of kid, and well-boil’d pettitoes,
And ribs of beef, and heads, and snouts and tails,
Then kid again, and lamb, and hares, and poultry,
Partridges and the bird from Phasis’ stream.
And golden honey, and clotted cream was there,
And cheese which I did join with all in calling
Most tender fare.”
The Greeks used many of the meats
and vegetables we enjoy; and others we
disclaim; for instance, cranes. Even
mushrooms were known to their cooks,
and Athenæus suggests how the wholesome
may be distinguished from the
poisonous, and what antidotes serve best
in case the bad are eaten. But with
further directions of his our tastes
would not agree. He recommends seasoning
the mushrooms with vinegar, or
honey and vinegar, or honey, or salt—for
by these means their choking
properties are taken away.
The writings of Athenæus have, however,
a certain literary and, for his time
as well as our own, an historic and archæologic
flavor. The only ancient cook-book
pure and simple—bent on instruction
in the excellent art—which has come
down to us is that of Apicius, in ten
short books, or chapters. And which
Apicius? Probably the second of the
name, the one who lectured on cooking
in Rome during the reign of Augustus.
He gave some very simple directions
which hold good to the present day; for
instance—
“UT CARNEM SALSAM DULCEM FACIAS
“Carnem salsam dulcem facies, si
prius in lacte coquas, et postea in aqua.”
But again his compounds are nauseating
even in print. He was famous
for many dishes, and Pliny, in his Natural
History, says he discovered the way
of increasing the size of the liver of the
pig—just as the liver of the Strasbourg
geese is enlarged for pâté de foie gras,
and as our own Southern people used
to induce pathological conditions in their
turkeys.
The method of Apicius was to cram
the pig with dried figs, and, when it was
fat enough, drench it with wine mixed
with honey. “There is,” continues
Pliny, “no other animal that affords so
great a variety to the palate; all others
have their taste, but the pig fifty different
flavors. From this tastiness of the
meat it came about that the censors
made whole pages of regulations about
serving at banquets the belly and the
jowls and other dainty parts. But in
spite of their rules the poet Publius,
author of the Mimes, when he ceased to
be a slave, is said never to have given
an entertainment without a dish of pig’s
belly which he called ‘sumen.’”
“Cook Apicius showed a remarkable
ingenuity in developing luxury,” the
old Roman says at another time, “and
thought it a most excellent plan to let
a mullet die in the pickle known as
‘garum.’” It was ingenuity of cruelty
as well as of luxury. “They killed the
fish in sauces and pickled them alive at
the banquet,” says Seneca, “feeding the
eye before the gullet, for they took pleasure
in seeing their mullets change several
colors while dying.” The unthinkable
garum was made, according to
Pliny, from the intestines of fish macerated
with salt, and other ingredients
were added before the mixture was set
in the sun to putrefy and came to the
right point for serving. It also had
popularity as a household remedy for
dog-bites, etc.; and in burns, when care
was necessary in its application not to
mention it by name—so delicately timid
was its healing spirit. Its use as a dish
was widespread, and perhaps we see in
the well-known hankerings of the royal
George of England a reversion to the
palate of Italian ancestors.
But garum was only one of strange
dishes. The Romans seasoned much
with rue and asafetida!—a taste kept to
this day in India, where “Kim” eats
“good curry cakes all warm and well-scented
with hing (asafetida).” Cabbages
they highly estimated; “of all
garden vegetables they thought them
best,” says Pliny. The same author
notes that Apicius rejected Brussels
sprouts, and in this was followed by
Drusus Cæsar, who was censured for
over-nicety by his father, the Emperor
Tiberius of Capreæ villas fame.
Upon cooks and the Roman estimate
of their value in his day Pliny also casts
light. “Asinius Celer, a man of consular
rank and noted for his expenditure
on mullet, bought one at Rome during
the reign of Gaius Caligula for eight
thousand sesterces. Reflection on this
fact,” continues Pliny, “will recall the
complaints uttered against luxury and
the lament that a single cook costs more
than a horse. At the present day a cook
is only to be had for the price of a
triumph, and a mullet only to be had for
what was once the price of a cook! Of
a fact there is now hardly any living
being held in higher esteem than the man
who knows how to get rid of his master’s
belongings in the most scientific
fashion!”
Much has been written of the luxury
and enervation of Romans after the republic,
how they feasted scented with
perfumes, reclining and listening to
music, “nudis puellis ministrantibus.”
The story is old of how Vedius Pollio
“hung with ecstasy over lampreys fattened
on human flesh;” how Tiberius
spent two days and two nights in one
bout; how Claudius dissolved pearls for
his food; how Vitellius delighted in the
brains of pheasants and tongues of
nightingales and the roe of fish difficult
to take; how the favorite supper of
Heliogabalus was the brains of six hundred
thrushes. At the time these gluttonies
went on in the houses of government
officials, the mass of the people, the
great workers who supported the great
idlers, fed healthfully on a mess of pottage.
The many to support the super-abundant
luxury of a few is still one of
the mysteries of the people.
But in the old Rome the law of right
and honest strength at last prevailed,
and monsters gave way to the cleaner
and hardier chiefs of the north. The
mastery of the world necessarily passed
to others;—it has never lain with slaves
of the stomach.
The early folk of Britain—those Cæesar
found in the land from which we
sprang—ate the milk and flesh of their
flocks. They made bread by picking the
grains from the ear and pounding them
to paste in a mortar. Their Roman conquerors
doubtless brought to their midst
a more elaborated table order. Barbarous
Saxons, fighters and freebooters,
next settling on the rich island and restraining
themselves little for sowing
and reaping, must in their incursions
have been flesh-eaters, expeditiously
roasting and broiling directly over coals
like our early pioneers.
This mode of living also would seem
true of the later-coming Danes, who
after their settlement introduced, says
Holinshed, another habit. “The Danes,”
says that delightful chronicler, “had
their dwelling ... among the Englishmen,
whereby came great harme; for
whereas the Danes by nature were great
drinkers, the Englishmen by continuall
conversation with them learned the same
vice. King Edgar, to reforme in part
such excessive quaffing as then began to
grow in use, caused by the procurement
of Dunstane [the then Archbishop of
Canterbury] nailes to be set in cups of
a certeine measure, marked for the purpose,
that none should drinke more than
was assigned by such measured cups.
Englishmen also learned of the Saxons,
Flemings, and other strangers, their
peculiar kinds of vices, as of the Saxons
a disordered fierceness of mind,
of the Flemings a feeble tendernesse
of bodie; where before they rejoiced
in their owne simplicitie and esteemed
not the lewd and unprofitable manners
of strangers.”
But refinement was growing in the
mixture of races which was to make modern
Englishmen, and in the time of Hardicanute,
much given to the pleasures
of the table and at last dying from too
copious a draught of wine,—“he fell
downe suddenlie,” says Holinshed,
“with the pot in his hand”—there was
aim at niceness and variety and hospitable
cheer.
The Black Book of a royal household
which Warner quotes in his “Antiquitates
Culinariæ”4 is evidence of
this:
“Domus Eegis Hardeknoute may be
called a fader noreshoure of familiaritie,
which used for his own table, never to
be served with ony like metes of one
meale in another, and that chaunge and
diversitie was dayly in greate habundance,
and that same after to be ministred
to his alms-dishe, he caused
cunyng cooks in curiositie; also, he was
the furst that began four meales stablyshed
in oon day, opynly to be holden
for worshuppfull and honest peopull resorting
to his courte; and no more melis,
nor brekefast, nor chambyr, but for his
children in householde; for which four
melys he ordeyned four marshalls, to
kepe the honor of his halle in recevyng
and dyrecting strangers, as well as of
his householdemen in theyre fitting, and
for services and ther precepts to be
obeyd in. And for the halle, with all
diligence of officers thereto assigned
from his furst inception, tyll the day of
his dethe, his house stode after one unyformitie.”
Of Hardicanute, “it hath,” says
Holinshed, “beene commonlie told, that
Englishmen learned of him their excessive
gourmandizing and unmeasurable
filling of their panches with meates and
drinkes, whereby they forgat the vertuous
use of sobrietie, so much necessarie
to all estates and degrees, so profitable
for all commonwealthes, and so
commendable both in the sight of God,
and all good men.”
Not only to the Danes, but also to the
later conquerors, the Normans, the old
chronicler attributes corruption of early
English frugality and simplicity. “The
Normans, misliking the gormandise of
Canutus, ordeined after their arrivall
that no table should be covered above
once in the day.... But in the end,
either waxing wearie of their owne frugalitie
or suffering the cockle of old
custome to overgrow the good corne of
their new constitution, they fell to such
libertie that in often feeding they surmounted
Canutus surnamed the hardie....
They brought in also the custome
of long and statelie sitting at meat.”
A fellow-Londoner with Holinshed,
John Stow, says of the reign of William
Rufus, the second Norman king of England,
“The courtiers devoured the substance
of the husbandmen, their tenants.”
And Stow’s “Annales” still further
tell of a banquet served in far-off Italy
to the duke of Clarence, son of Edward
III., when, some three hundred years
after the Norman settlement, the lad
Leonell went to marry Violentis, daughter
of the duke of Milan. It should not
be forgotten that in the reign of Edward
II. of England, grandfather of the duke,
proclamation had been issued against
the “outrageous and excessive multitude
of meats and dishes” served by the
nobles in their castles, as well by “persons
of inferior rank imitating their example,
beyond what their station required
and their circumstances could
afford.”
“At the comming of Leonell”, says
Stow, “such aboundance of treasure
was in most bounteous maner spent, in
making most sumptuous feasts, setting
forth stately fightes, and honouring with
rare gifts above two hundred Englishmen,
which accompanied his [the duke
of Milan’s] son-in-law, as it seemed to
surpasse the greatnesse of most wealthy
Princes; for in the banquet whereat
Francis Petrarch was present, amongst
the chiefest guestes, there were above
thirtie courses of service at the table,
and betwixt every course, as many presents
of wonderous price intermixed, all
which John Galeasius, chiefe of the
choice youth, bringing to the table, did
offer to Leonell ... And such was the
sumptuousnesse of that banquet, that
the meats which were brought from the
table, would sufficiently have served ten
thousand men.”
The first cook-book we have in our
ample English tongue is of date about
1390. Its forme, says the preface to the
table of contents, this “forme of cury
[cookery] was compiled of the chef
maistes cokes of kyng Richard the Secunde
kyng of nglond aftir the conquest;
the which was accounted the best and
ryallest vyand [nice eater] of alle csten
ynges [Christian kings]; and it was
compiled by assent and avysement of
maisters and [of] phisik and of philosophie
that dwellid in his court. First it
techith a man for to make commune
pottages and commune meetis for howshold,
as they shold be made, craftly and
holsomly. Aftirward it techith for to
make curious potages, and meetes, and
sotiltees, for alle maner of states, bothe
hye and lowe. And the techyng of the
forme of making of potages, and of
meetes, bothe of flesh, and of fissh, buth
[are] y sette here by noumbre and by
ordre. Sso this little table here fewyng
[following] wole teche a man with oute
taryyng, to fynde what meete that hym
lust for to have.”
The “potages” and “meetis” and
“sotiltees” it techith a man for to make
would be hardly more endurable to the
modern stomach than some old Greek
and Roman seasonings we have referred
to. There is no essential difference
between these and the directions of a
rival cook-book written some forty or
fifty years later and divided into three
parts—Kalendare de Potages dyvers,
Kalendare de Leche Metys, Dyverse bake
metis. Or of another compiled about
1450. Let us see how they would make
a meat.
“Stwed Beeff. Take faire Ribbes of
ffresh beef, And (if thou wilt) roste hit
til hit be nygh ynowe; then put hit in
a faire possenet; caste therto parcely
and oynons mynced, reysons of corauns,
powder peper, canel, clowes, saundres,
safferon, and salt; then caste thereto
wyn and a litull vynegre; sette a lyd
on the potte, and lete hit boile sokingly
on a faire charcole til hit be ynogh; then
lay the fflessh, in disshes, and the sirippe
thereuppon, And serve it forth.”
And for sweet apple fritters:
“Freetours. Take yolkes of egges,
drawe hem thorgh a streynour, caste
thereto faire floure, berme and ale;
stere it togidre till hit be thik. Take
pared appelles, cut hem thyn like obleies
[wafers of the eucharist], ley hem in the
batur; then put hem into a ffrying pan,
and fry hem in faire grece or buttur til
thei ben browne yelowe; then put hem
in disshes; and strawe Sugur on hem
ynogh, And serve hem forthe.”
Still other cook-books followed—the
men of that day served hem forthe—among
which we notice “A noble Boke
off Cookry ffor a prynce houssolde or
eny other estately houssolde,” ascribed
to about the year 1465.
To the monasteries the art of cooking
is doubtless much indebted, just as even
at the present day is the art of making
liqueurs. Their vast wealth, the leisure
of the in-dwellers, and the gross sensualism
and materialism of the time they
were at their height would naturally lead
to care for the table and its viands.
Within their thick stone walls, which
the religious devotion of the populace
had reared, the master of the kitchen,
magister coquinæ or magnus coquus,
was not the man of least importance.
Some old author whose name and book
do not come promptly to memory refers
to the disinclination of plump capons,
or round-breasted duck, to meet ecclesiastical
eyes—a facetiousness repeated
in our day when the Uncle Remuses
of Dixie say they see yellow-legged
chickens run and hide if a preacher
drives up to supper.
Moreover, the monasteries were the
inns of that day where travellers put
up, and in many instances were served
free—no price, that is, was put upon
their entertainment, the abbot, or the
establishment, receiving whatever gift
the one sheltered and fed felt able or
moved to pay.
Contemporary accounts of, or references
to, the cooking and feasting in
religious houses are many—those of the
Vision of Long Will concerning Piers
the Plowman, those of “Dan Chaucer,
the first warbler,” of Alexander Barclay,
and Skelton, great satirist of times
of Henry VIII., and of other authors
not so well remembered. Now and then
a racy anecdote has come down like that
which Thomas Fuller saves from lip tradition
in his “History of Abbeys in
England.” It happened, says Worthy
Fuller, that Harry VIII., “hunting in
Windsor Forest, either casually lost, or
(more probable) wilfully losing himself,
struck down about dinner-time to the
abbey of Reading; where, disguising
himself (much for delight, more for discovery,
to see unseen), he was invited
to the abbot’s table, and passed for one
of the king’s guard, a place to which the
proportion of his person might properly
entitle him. A sirloin of beef was set
before him (so knighted saith tradition,
by this King Henry), on which the king
laid on lustily, not disgracing one of that
place for whom he was mistaken.
“‘Well fare thy heart!’ quoth the
abbot; ‘and here in a cup of sack I remember
the health of his grace your
master. I would give an hundred
pounds on the condition I could feed so
heartily on beef as you do. Alas! my
weak and squeazy stomach will badly
digest the wing of a small rabbit or
chicken.’
“The king pleasantly pledged him,
and, heartily thanking him for his good
cheer, after dinner departed as undiscovered
as he came thither.
“Some weeks after, the abbot was sent
for by a pursuivant, brought up to London,
clapped in the Tower, kept close
prisoner, fed for a short time with bread
and water; yet not so empty his body of
food, as his mind was filled with fears,
creating many suspicions to himself
when and how he had incurred the
king’s displeasure. At last a sirloin of
beef was set before him, on which the
abbot fed as the farmer of his grange,
and verified the proverb, that ‘Two
hungry meals make the third a glutton.’
“In springs King Henry out of a private
lobby, where he had placed himself,
the invisible spectator of the abbot’s
behavior. ‘My lord,’ quoth the king,
‘presently deposit your hundred pounds
in gold, or else no going hence all the
days of your life. I have been your
physician to cure you of your squeazy
stomach; and here, as I deserve, I demand
my fee for the same!’
“The abbot down with his dust; and,
glad he had escaped so, returned to
Reading, as somewhat lighter in purse,
so much more merrier in heart than
when he came thence.”
The “squeazy” abbot stood alone in
proclamation of his disorder. Archbishop
Cranmer, according to John
Leland, king’s antiquary to Henry
VIII., found it necessary in 1541 to regulate
the expenses of the tables of bishops
and clergy by a constitution—an instrument
which throws much light on the
then conditions, and which ran as follows:
“In the yeare of our Lord MDXLI
it was agreed and condescended upon,
as wel by the common consent of both
tharchbishops and most part of the
bishops within this realme of Englande,
as also of divers grave men at that tyme,
both deanes and archdeacons, the fare
at their tables to be thus moderated.
“First, that tharchbishop should
never exceede six divers kindes of fleshe,
or six of fishe, on the fishe days; the
bishop not to exceede five, the deane and
archdeacon not above four, and al other
under that degree not above three; provided
also that tharchbishop myght have
of second dishes four, the bishop three,
and al others under the degree of a
bishop but two. As custard, tart, fritter,
cheese or apples, peares, or two of other
kindes of fruites. Provided also, that if
any of the inferior degree dyd receave
at their table, any archbishop, bishop,
deane, or archdeacon, or any of the
laitie of lyke degree, viz. duke, marques,
earle, viscount, baron, lorde, knyght,
they myght have such provision as were
mete and requisite for their degrees.
Provided alway that no rate was limited
in the receavying of any ambassadour.
It was also provided that of the greater
fyshes or fowles, there should be but one
in a dishe, as crane, swan, turkey cocke,
hadocke, pyke, tench; and of lesse sortes
but two, viz. capons two, pheasantes
two, conies two, and woodcockes two.
Of lesse sortes, as of patriches, the archbishop
three, the bishop and other degrees
under hym two. Of blackburdes,
the archbishop six, the bishop four, the
other degrees three. Of larkes and
snytes (snipes) and of that sort but
twelve. It was also provided, that whatsoever
is spared by the cutting of, of the
olde superfluitie, shoulde yet be provided
and spent in playne meates for the
relievyng of the poore. Memorandum,
that this order was kept for two or three
monethes, tyll by the disusyng of certaine
wylful persons it came to the olde
excesse.”
Still one more tale bearing upon a
member of the clergy who would set out
more “blackburdes” than “tharchbishop”
is told by Holinshed. It has
within it somewhat of the flavor of the
odium theologicum, but an added interest
also, since it turns upon a dish esteemed
in Italy since the time of the imperial
Romans—peacock, often served even
nowadays encased in its most wonderful
plumage. The Pope Julius III., whose
luxurious entertainment and comport
shocked the proprieties even of that day,
and who died in Rome while the chronicler
was busy in London, is the chief
actor.
“At an other time,” writes Holinshed,
“he sitting at dinner, pointing to a peacocke
upon his table, which he had not
touched; Keepe (said he) this cold peacocke
for me against supper, and let me
sup in the garden, for I shall have
ghests. So when supper came, and
amongst other hot peacockes, he saw not
his cold peacocke brought to his table;
the pope after his wonted manner, most
horriblie blaspheming God, fell into an
extreame rage, &c. Whereupon one of
his cardinals sitting by, desired him
saieng: Let not your holinesse, I praie
you, be so mooved with a matter of so
small weight. Then this Julius the pope
answeringe againe: What (saith he) if
God was so angrie for one apple, that he
cast our first parents out of paradise
for the same, whie maie not I being his
vicar, be angrie then for a peacocke,
sithens a peacocke is a greater matter
than an apple.”
In England at this time controlling
the laity were sumptuary laws, habits of
living resulting from those laws, and
great inequalities in the distribution of
wealth. On these points Holinshed
again brings us light:
“In number of dishes and change of
meat,” he writes, “the nobilitie of England
(whose cookes are for the most
part musicall-headed Frenchmen and
strangers) do most exceed, sith there is
no daie in maner that passeth over their
heads, wherein they have not onelie
beefe, mutton, veale, lambe, kid, porke,
conie, capon, pig, or so manie of these
as the season yeeldeth; but also some
portion of the red or fallow deere, beside
great varietie of fish and wild foule,
and thereto sundrie other delicates
wherein the sweet hand of the seasoning
Portingale is not wanting; so that for a
man to dine with one of them, and to
taste of everie dish that standeth before
him ... is rather to yeeld unto a conspiracie
with a great deale of meat for
the speedie suppression of naturall
health, then the use of a necessarie
meane to satisfie himselfe with a competent
repast, to susteine his bodie withall.
But as this large feeding is not seene
in their gests, no more is it in their owne
persons, for sith they have dailie much
resort unto their tables ... and thereto
reteine great numbers of servants, it is
verie requisit and expedient for them to
be somewhat plentifull in this behalfe.
“The chiefe part likewise of their
dailie provision is brought before them
... and placed on their tables, whereof
when they have taken what it pleaseth
them, the rest is reserved and afterwards
sent downe to their serving men
and waiters, who feed thereon in like
sort with convenient moderation, their
reversion also being bestowed upon the
poore, which lie readie at their gates in
great numbers to receive the same.
“The gentlemen and merchants keepe
much about one rate, and each of them
contenteth himselfe with foure, five or
six dishes, when they have but small resort,
or peradventure with one, or two,
or three at the most, when they have no
strangers to accompanie them at their
tables. And yet their servants have
their ordinarie diet assigned, beside
such as is left at their masters’ boordes,
and not appointed to be brought thither
the second time, which neverthelesse is
often seene generallie in venison, lambe,
or some especiall dish, whereon the merchant
man himselfe liketh to feed when
it is cold.”
“At such times as the merchants doo
make their ordinarie or voluntarie
feasts, it is a world to see what great
provision is made of all maner of delicat
meats, from everie quarter of the
countrie.... They will seldome regard
anie thing that the butcher usuallie killeth,
but reject the same as not worthie
to come in place. In such cases all
gelisses of all coleurs mixed with a
varitie in the representation of sundrie
floures, herbs, trees, formes of beasts,
fish, foules and fruits, and there unto
marchpaine wrought with no small curiositie,
tarts of diverse hewes and sundrie
denominations, conserves of old fruits
foren and homebred, suckets, codinacs,
marmilats, marchpaine, sugerbread, gingerbread,
florentines, wild foule, venison
of all sorts, and sundrie outlandish confections
altogither seasoned with sugar
... doo generalie beare the swaie, beside
infinit devises of our owne not possible
for me to remember. Of the potato and
such venerous roots as are brought out
of Spaine, Portingale, and the Indies to
furnish our bankets, I speake not.”
“The artificer and husbandman make
greatest accompt of such meat as they
may soonest come by, and have it quickliest
readie.... Their food also consisteth
principallie in beefe and such
meat as the butcher selleth, that is to
saie, mutton, veale, lambe, porke, etc.,
... beside souse, brawne, bacon, fruit,
pies of fruit, foules of sundrie sorts,
cheese, butter, eggs, etc.... To conclude,
both the artificer and the husbandman
are sufficientlie liberall and
verie friendlie at their tables, and
when they meet they are so merie
without malice and plaine, without inward
Italian or French craft and subtiltie,
that it would doo a man good to
be in companie among them.
“With us the nobilitie, gentrie and
students doo ordinarilie go to dinner at
eleven before noone, and to supper at
five, or betweene five and six at after-noone.
The merchants dine and sup seldome
before twelve at noone, and six at
night, especiallie in London. The husbandmen
dine also at high noone as they
call it, and sup at seven or eight....
As for the poorest sort they generallie
dine and sup when they may, so that to
talke of their order of repast it were but
a needlesse matter.”
“The bread through out the land,”
continues Holinshed, “is made of such
graine as the soil yeeldeth, neverthelesse
the gentilitie commonlie provide themselves
sufficientlie of wheat for their
owne tables, whilst their houshold and
poore neighbours in some shires are inforced
to content themselves with rie, or
baricie, yea and in time of dearth manie
with bread made either of beans, or peason,
or otes, or of altogether and some
acornes among.... There be much
more ground eared now almost in everie
place than hath beene of late yeares, yet
such a price of come continueth in each
towne and market without any just
cause (except it be that landlords doo
get licenses to carie come out of the land
onelie to keepe up the prices for their
owne private games and ruine of the
commonwealth), that the artificer and
poore laboring man is not able to reach
unto it, but is driven to content himselfe
with horsse corne—I mean beanes, peason,
otes, tarres, and lintels.”
Books had been written for women
and their tasks within—the “Babees
Booke,” Tusser’s5 “Hundrethe Good
Pointes of Huswifry,” “The Good
Husive’s Handmaid”—the last two in
the sixteenth century; these and others
of their kidney. A woman who thought,
spoke, and wrote in several tongues was
greatly filling the throne of England in
those later times.
Cook- and receipt-books in the following
century, that is in the seventeenth,
continued to discover women, and to
realize moreover that to them division
of labor had delegated the household and
its businesses. There were “Jewels”
and “Closets of Delights” before we
find an odd little volume putting out in
1655 a second edition. It shows upon
its title-page the survival from earlier
conditions of the confusion of duties of
physician and cook—a fact made apparent
in the preface copied in the foregoing
“forme of cury” of King Richard—and
perhaps intimates the housewife
should perform the services of both. It
makes, as well, a distinct appeal to
women as readers and users of books.
Again it evidences the growth of the
Commons. In full it introduces itself in
this wise:
“The Ladies Cabinet enlarged and
opened: containing Many Rare Secrets
and Rich Ornaments, of several kindes,
and different uses. Comprized under
three general Heads, viz. of 1 Preserving,
Conserving, Candying, etc. 2
Physick and Chirurgery. 3 Cooking
and Housewifery. Whereunto is added
Sundry Experiments and choice Extractions
of Waters, Oyls, etc. Collected
and practised by the late Right Honorable
and Learned Chymist, the Lord
Ruthuen.”
The preface, after an inscription “To
the Industrious improvers of Nature by
Art; especially the vertuous Ladies and
Gentlewomen of the Land,” begins:
“Courteous Ladies, etc. The first
Edition of this—(cal it what you please)
having received a kind entertainment
from your Ladiships hands, for reasons
best known to yourselves, notwithstanding
the disorderly and confused jumbling
together of things of different
kinds, hath made me (who am not a little
concerned therein) to bethink myself of
some way, how to encourage and requite
your Ladiships Pains and Patience (vertues,
indeed, of absolute necessity in
such brave employments; there being
nothing excellent that is not withal difficult)
in the profitable spending of your
vacant minutes.” This labored and
high-flying mode of address continues to
the preface’s end.... “I shall thus
leave you at liberty as Lovers in Gardens,
to follow your own fancies. Take
what you like, and delight in your
choice, and leave what you list to him,
whose labour is not lost if anything
please.”
In turning the leaves of the book
one comes upon such naïve discourse
as this:
“To make the face white and fair.
“Wash thy face with Rosemary boiled
in white wine, and thou shalt be fair;
then take Erigan and stamp it, and take
the juyce thereof, and put it all together
and wash thy face therewith. Proved.”
It was undoubtedly the success of
“The Ladies Cabinet” and its cousins
german that led to the publication of a
fourth edition in 1658 of another compilation,
which, according to the preface,
was to go “like the good Samaritane
giving comfort to all it met.” The title
was “The Queens Closet opened: Incomparable
Secrets in Physick, Chyrurgery,
Preserving, Candying, and
Cookery, As they were presented unto
the Queen By the most Experienced
Persons of our times.... Transcribed
from the true Copies of her
Majesties own Receipt Books, by W. M.
one of her late Servants.” It is curious
to recall that this book was published
during the Cromwell Protectorate—1658
is the year of the death of Oliver—and
that the queen alluded to in the title—whose
portrait, engraved by the elder
William Faithorne, forms the frontispiece—was
Henrietta Maria, widow of
Charles I., and at that time an exile in
France.
During this century, which saw such
publications as Rose’s “School for the
Officers of the Mouth,” and “Nature Unembowelled,”
a woman, Hannah Wolley,
appears as author of “The Cook’s
Guide.” All such compilations have
enduring human value, but we actually
gain quite as much of this oldest of arts
from such records as those the indefatigable
Pepys left in his Diary. At that
time men of our race did not disdain a
knowledge of cookery. Izaak Walton,
“an excellent angler, and now with
God,” dresses chub and trout in his
meadow-sweet pages. Even Thomas
Fuller, amid his solacing and delightful
“Worthies,” thinks of the housewife,
and gives a receipt for metheglin.
And a hundred years later Dr. Johnson’s
friend, the Rev. Richard Warner,
in his “Personal Recollections,” did not
hesitate to expand upon what he thought
the origin of mince pies. Warner’s
Johnsonian weight in telling his fantasy
recalls Goldsmith’s quip about the Doctor’s
little fish talking like whales, and
also Johnson’s criticism upon his own
“too big words and too many of them.”
Warner wrote, “In the early ages of
our country, when its present widely
spread internal trade and retail business
were yet in their infancy, and none of
the modern facilities were afforded to
the cook to supply herself ‘on the spur
of the moment,’ ... it was the practice
of all prudent housewives, to lay in, at
the conclusion of every year (from some
contiguous periodical fair), a stock sufficient
for the ensuing annual consumption,
of ... every sweet composition for
the table—such as raisins, currants, citrons,
and ‘spices of the best.’
“The ample cupboard ... within the
wainscot of the dining parlour itself
... formed the safe depository of these
precious stores.
“‘When merry Christmas-tide came
round’ ... the goodly litter of the cupboard,
thus various in kind and aspect,
was carefully swept into one common
receptacle; the mingled mass enveloped
in pastry and enclosed within the duly
heated oven, from whence ... perfect
in form, colour, odour, flavour and temperament,
it smoked, the glory of the
hospitable Christmas board, hailed from
every quarter by the honourable and imperishable
denomination of the Mince-Pye.”
In the eighteenth century women
themselves, following Hannah Wolley,
began cook-book compiling. So great
was their success that we find Mrs. Elizabeth
Moxon’s “English Housewifry”
going into its ninth edition in the London
market of 1764. All through history
there have been surprises coming to
prejudiced minds out of the despised
and Nazarene. It was so about this matter
of cook-books—small in itself, great
in its far-reaching results to the health
and development of the human race.
Women had been taught the alphabet.
But the dogmatism of Dr. Johnson
voiced the judgment of many of our
forebears: a dominant power is always
hard in its estimate of the capacities it
controls. “Women can spin very well,”
said the great Cham, “but they can not
make a good book of cookery.” He was
talking to “the swan of Lichfield,” little
Anna Seward, when he said this, and
also to a London publisher. The book
they were speaking of had been put
forth by the now famous Mrs. Hannah
Glasse, said to be the wife of a London
attorney.
The doctor—possibly with an eye to
business, a publisher being present—was
describing a volume he had in mind
to make, “a book upon philosophical
principles,” “a better book of cookery
than has ever yet been written.”
“Then,” wisely said the dogmatic doctor,
“as you can not make bad meat
good, I would tell what is the best
butcher’s meat, the best beef, the best
pieces; how to choose young fowls; the
proper seasons of different vegetables;
and then how to roast and boil and compound.”
This was the plan of a poet,
essayist, lexicographer, and the leading
man of letters of his day. His cook-book
was never written.
But good Mrs. Glasse had also with
large spirit aimed at teaching the ignorant,
possibly those of a kind least often
thought of by instructors in her art.
She had, forsooth, caught her hare outside
her book, even if she never found
him in its page. “If I have not wrote in
the high polite style,” she says, with a
heart helpful toward the misunderstood
and oppressed, and possibly with the
pages of some pretentious chef in mind,
“I hope I shall be forgiven; for my intention
is to instruct the lower sort, and
therefore must treat them in their own
way. For example, when I bid them
lard a fowl, if I should bid them lard
with large lardoons, they would not
know what I meant; but when I say they
must lard with little pieces of bacon,
they know what I mean. So in many
other things in Cookery the great cooks
have such a high way of expressing
themselves, that the poor girls are at a
loss to know what they mean.”
Mrs. Glasse’s book was published in
1747—while Dr. Johnson had still thirty-seven
years in which to “boast of the
niceness of his palate,” and spill his
food upon his waistcoat. “Whenever,”
says Macaulay, “he was so fortunate as
to have near him a hare that had been
kept too long, or a meat pie made with
rancid butter, he gorged himself with
such violence that his veins swelled and
the moisture broke out on his forehead.”
But within forty-eight years of the December
his poor body was borne from
the house behind Fleet Street to its resting-place
in Westminster Abbey, a thin
volume, “The Frugal Housewife,”
written by our American Lydia Maria
Child, had passed to its ninth London
edition, in that day sales being more
often than in our own a testimony of
merit. This prevailing of justice over
prejudice is “too good for any but very
honest people,” as Izaak Walton said
of roast pike. Dogmatism is always
eating its own words.
Since the master in literature, Dr.
Johnson, planned his cook-book many
cooking men have dipped ink in behalf
of instruction in their art. Such names
as Farley, Carême, and Soyer have been
written, if not in marble or bronze, at
least in sugar of the last caramel degree—unappreciated
excellencies mainly because
of the inattention of the public to
what nourishes it, and lack of the knowledge
that the one who introduces an
inexpensive, palatable, and digestible
dish benefits his fellow-men.
The names of these club cooks and
royal cooks are not so often referred to
as that of the large and human-hearted
Mrs. Glasse. A key to their impulse
toward book-making must, however,
have been that offered by Master Farley,
chief cook at the London Tavern,
who wrote in 1791, a hundred and fourteen
years ago: “Cookery, like every
other Art, has been moving forward to
perfection by slow Degrees.... And
although there are so many Books of
this Kind already published, that one
would hardly think there could be Occasion
for another, yet we flatter ourselves,
that the Readers of this Work will find,
from a candid Perusal, and an impartial
Comparison, that our Pretensions to
the Favour of the Public are not ill-founded.”
Such considerations as those of Master
Farley seem to lead to the present
great output. But nowadays our social
conditions and our intricate and involved
household arrangements demand
a specialization of duties. The average
old cook-book has become insufficient.
It has evolved into household-directing
as well as cook-directing books, comprehending
the whole subject of esoteric
economies. This is a curious enlargement;
and one cause, and result, of it is
that the men and women of our domestic
corps are better trained, better equipped
with a logical, systematized, scientific
knowledge, that they are in a degree
specialists—in a measure as the engineer
of an ocean greyhound is a specialist, or
the professor of mathematics, or the
writer of novels is a specialist. And
specialists should have the dignity of
special treatment. In this movement, it
is to be hoped, is the wiping out of the
social stigma under which domestic
service has so long lain in our country,
and a beginning of the independence of
the domestic laborer—that he or she
shall possess himself or herself equally
with others—as other free-born people
possess themselves, that is.
And closely allied with this specialization
another notable thing has come
about. Science with its microscope has
finally taught what religion with its
manifold precepts of humility and
humanity has failed for centuries to
accomplish, thus evidencing that true
science and true religion reach one and
the same end. There are no menial
duties, science clearly enunciates: the
so-called drudgery is often the most important
of work, especially when the
worker brings to his task a large knowledge
of its worth in preserving and
sweetening human life, and perfectness
as the sole and satisfactory aim. Only
the careless, thriftless workers, the inefficient
and possessed with no zeal for
perfection of execution, only these are
the menials according to the genuine
teachings of our day—and the ignorant,
unlifted worker’s work is menial (using
the word again in its modern English
and not its old Norman-French usage)
whatever his employment.
In verse this was said long ago, as the
imagination is always forestalling practical
knowledge, and George Herbert, of
the seventeenth century, foreran our
science in his “Elixir:”
“All may of thee partake:
Nothing can be so mean,
Which with this tincture for thy sake
Will not grow bright and clean.
“A servant with this clause
Makes drudgery divine;
Who sweeps a room, as for thy laws,
Makes that and th’ action fine.
“This is the famous stone
That turneth all to gold:
For that which God doth touch and own
Cannot for less be told.”
Present-day, up-to-date books on
housekeeping stand for the fact that in
our households, whatever the estimates
of the past and of other social conditions,
all work is dignified—none is
menial. For besides intelligent knowledge
and execution, what in reality, they
ask, gives dignity to labor? Weight and
importance of that particular task to
our fellow-beings? What then shall we
say of the duties of cook? of housemaid?
of chambermaid? of the handy
man, or of the modest maid of all work?
For upon the efficient performance of
the supposedly humblest domestic servitor
depends each life of the family.
Such interdependence brings the employed
very close to the employer, and
no bond could knit the varied elements
of a household more closely, none should
knit it more humanly.
The human, then, are the first of the
relations that exist between employer
and employee, that “God hath made of
one blood all nations of the earth.” It
is a truth not often enough in the minds
of the parties to a domestic-service compact.
And besides this gospel of Paul
are two catch-phrases, not so illuminated
but equally humane, which sprang from
the ameliorating spirit of the last century—“Put
yourself in his place,” and
“Everybody is as good as I.” These
form the best bed-rock for all relations
between master and servant. There is
need of emphasizing this point in our
books on affairs of the house, for a
majority of our notably rich are new to
riches and new to knowledge, and as
employers have not learned the limitation
of every child of indulgence and
also polite manners in early life.
It is after all a difference of environment
that makes the difference between
mistress and maid, between master and
man. The human being is as plastic as
clay—is clay in the hands of circumstance.
If his support of wife and children
depended upon obsequiousness of
bearing, the master might, like the
butler, approximate Uriah Heep. If the
mistress’s love of delicacy and color had
not been cultivated by association with
taste from childhood, her finery might
be as vulgar as the maid’s which provokes
her satire. It is after all a question
of surroundings and education.
And in this country, where Aladdin-fortunes
spring into being by the rubbing
of a lamp—where families of, for
example, many centuries of the downtrodden
life of European peasant jump
from direst poverty to untold wealth—environment
has often no opportunity to
form the folk of gentle breeding. Many
instances are not lacking where those
who wait are more gently bred than
those who are waited upon.
In their larger discourse, then, up-to-date
household books stand for the very
essence of democracy and human-heartedness—which
is also the very essence
of aristocracy. After the old manner
which Master Farley described, our
women seem to have given their books
to the public with the faith that they
contain much other books have not
touched—to stand for an absolutely
equable humanity, for kindness and
enduring courtesy between those who
employ and those who are employed, the
poor rich and the rich poor, the householders
and the houseworkers—to state
the relations between master and man
and mistress and maid more explicitly
than they have before been stated, and
thus to help toward a more perfect organization
of the forces that carry on
our households—to direct with scientific
and economic prevision the food of
the house members; to emphasize in all
departments of the house thoroughgoing
sanitation and scientific cleanliness.
Of questions of the household—of
housekeeping and home-making—our
American women have been supposed
somewhat careless. Possibly this judgment
over the sea has been builded upon
our women’s vivacity, and a subtle intellectual
force they possess, and also from
their interest in affairs at large, and
again from their careful and cleanly attention
to their person—“they keep their
teeth too clean,” says a much-read
French author. Noting such characteristics,
foreigners have jumped to the
conclusion that American women are not
skilled in works within doors. In almost
every European country this is common
report. “We German women are such
devoted housekeepers,” said the wife of
an eminent Deutscher, “and you American
women know so little about such
things!” “Bless your heart!” I exclaimed—or
if not just that then its German
equivalent—thinking of the perfectly
kept homes from the rocks and
pines of Maine to the California surf;
“you German women with your little
haushaltungen, heating your rooms with
porcelain stoves, and your frequent reversion
in meals to the simplicity of
wurst and beer, have no conception of
the size and complexity of American
households and the executive capabilities
necessary to keep them in orderly
work. Yours is mere doll’s housekeeping—no
furnaces, no hot water, no electricity,
no elevators, no telephone, and
no elaborate menus.”
Our American women are model
housekeepers and home-makers, as thousands
of homes testify, but the interests
of the mistresses of these houses are
broader, their lives are commonly more
projected into the outer world of organized
philanthropy and art than women’s
lives abroad, and the apparent non-intrusion
of domestic affairs leads foreigners
to misinterpret their interest
and their zeal. It is the consummate
executive who can set aside most personal
cares and take on others efficiently.
Moreover, it is not here as where a
learned professor declared: “Die erste
Tugend eines Weibes ist die Sparsamkeit.”
To have a home in which daily duties
move without noise and as like a clock
as its human machinery will permit, and
to have a table of simplicity and excellence,
is worth a pleasure-giving ambition
and a womanly ambition. It is to
bring, in current critical phrase, three-fourths
of the comfort of life to those
whose lives are joined to the mistress of
such a household—the loaf-giver who
spends her brains for each ordered day
and meal. Moreover, and greatest of
all, to plan and carry on so excellent an
establishment is far-reaching upon all
men. It is the very essence of morality—is
duty—i.e., service—and law.
The French aver that men of the
larger capacity have for food a particularly
keen enjoyment. Possibly this
holds good for Frenchmen—for the
author of Monte Cristo, or for a Brillat-Savarin,
of whose taste the following
story is told: “Halting one day at Sens,
when on his way to Lyons, Savarin sent,
according to his invariable custom, for
the cook, and asked what he could have
for dinner. ‘Little enough,’ was the
reply. ‘But let us see,’ retorted Savarin;
‘let us go into the kitchen and talk
the matter over.’ There he found four
turkeys roasting. ‘Why!’ exclaimed he,
‘you told me you had nothing in the
house! let me have one of those turkeys.’
‘Impossible!’ said the cook;
‘they are all bespoken by a gentleman
up-stairs.’ ‘He must have a large party
to dine with him, then?’ ‘No; he dines
by himself.’ ‘Indeed!’ said the gastronome;
‘I should like much to be acquainted
with the man who orders four
turkeys for his own eating.’ The cook
was sure the gentleman would be glad
of his acquaintance, and Savarin, on
going to pay his respects to the stranger,
found him to be no other than his own
son. ‘What! you rascal! four turkeys
all to yourself!’ ‘Yes, sir,’ said Savarin,
junior; ‘you know that when we have a
turkey at home you always reserve for
yourself the pope’s nose; I was resolved
to regale myself for once in my life;
and here I am, ready to begin, although
I did not expect the honour of your
company.’”
The French may say truly of the
famous “high-priest of gastronomy.”
And a story which has lately appeared
in Germany tells of a sensitive palate in
Goethe: “At a small party at the court
of Weimar, the Marshal asked permission
to submit a nameless sample of
wine. Accordingly, a red wine was circulated,
tasted, and much commended.
Several of the company pronounced it
Burgundy, but could not agree as to the
special vintage or the year. Goethe
alone tasted and tasted again, shook his
head, and, with a meditative air, set his
glass on the table. ‘Your Excellency
appears to be of a different opinion,’
said the court marshal. ‘May I ask what
name you give to the wine?’ ‘The wine,’
said the poet, ‘is quite unknown to me;
but I do not think it is a Burgundy. I
should rather consider it a good Jena
wine that has been kept for some while
in a Madeira cask.’ ‘And so, in fact, it
is,’ said the court marshal. For a more
discriminating palate, one must go to the
story of the rival wine-tasters in ‘Don
Quixote,’ who from a single glass
detected the key and leather thong in a
cask of wine.”
But that great capacity means also
discriminating palate could hardly be
true for Americans of the old stock and
simple life. Judge Usher, Secretary of
Interior in Lincoln’s Cabinet at the time
of the President’s death, said that he
had never heard Abraham Lincoln refer
to his food in any way whatever.
From a consideration of women’s
cook-books springs another suggestion.
Heaped upon one’s table, the open pages
and appetiteful illustrations put one to
thinking that if women of intelligence,
and of leisure except for burdens they
assume under so-called charity or a faddish
impulse, were to take each some
department of the household, and give
time and effort to gaining a complete
knowledge of that department—a knowledge
of its evolution and history, of its
scientific and hygienic bearings, of its
gastronomic values if it touched upon
the table—there would be great gain to
the world at large and to their friends.
For instance, if a woman skilled in
domestic science and the domestic arts
were to take some fruit, or some vegetable,
or cereal, or meat, and develop
to the utmost what an old author-cook
calls, after those cook-oracles of ancient
Rome, the “Apician mysteries” of the
dish, her name would deserve to go down
to posterity with something of the odor—or
flavor—of sanctity. Hundreds of
saints in the calendar never did anything
half so meritorious and worthy of
felicitous recognition from their fellow-men.
Take, for example, the democratic
cabbage and its cousins german, and
their treatment in the average cuisine.
What might not such an investigation
show this Monsieur Chou or Herr Kohl
and his relations capable of!—the cabbage
itself, the Scotch kale, the Jersey
cabbage, and Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower,
and broccoli, and kohl-rabi, and
cabbage palms, and still other species!
Looked at in their evolution, and the
part they have played in human history
as far back as in old Persia and the Anabasis
of the Greeks, and so late as the
famine times of Ireland, these succulent
and nutritious vegetables would be most
interesting. And, even if chemically
their elements vary, the fact that all the
family are blessed with a large percentage
of nitrogen might be shown to have
increased their usefulness long before
chemists analyzed their tissues and told
us why men who could not buy meat
so carefully cultivated the foody leaves.
Under such sane and beneficent impulses
every well-directed household would
become an experiment station for the
study of human food—not the extravagant
and rare after the test and search
of imperial Heliogabalus, but in the
best modern, scientific, economic, gastronomic,
and democratic manner.
Since making this foregoing suggestion
I find this point similarly touched
by the man who dissertated on roast pig.
“It is a desideratum,” says Lamb, “in
works that treat de re culinaria, that we
have no rationale of sauces, or theory of
mixed flavours: as to show why cabbage
is reprehensible with roast beef, laudable
with bacon; why the haunch of mutton
seeks the alliance of currant jelly, the
shoulder civilly declineth it; why loin
of veal (a pretty problem), being itself
unctious, seeketh the adventitious lubricity
of melted butter—and why the
same part in pork, not more oleaginous,
abhorreth from it; why the French bean
sympathizes with the flesh of deer; why
salt fish points to parsnips.... We are
as yet but in the empirical stage of cookery.
We feed ignorantly, and want to
be able to give a reason of the relish
that is in us.”
In speaking of modern household
books one cannot have done without adding
still one word more about the use of
the word “servant” as these books seem
to speak of it. Owing to an attempted
Europeanizing of our ideas, and also to
the fact that many of our domestics are
of foreign birth and habits of thought—or
of the lowly, velvet-voiced, unassertive
suavity of the most loyal negro—the
term has gradually crept to a quasi acceptance
in this country. It is a word
not infrequently obnoxious to Americans—employers—of
the old stock, and
trained in the spirit which wrote the
Declaration of Independence and fought
its sequent War. “From the time of
the Revolution,” says Miss Salmon in
her “Domestic Service,” “until about
1850 the word ‘servant’ does not seem
to have been generally applied in either
section [north or south] to white persons
of American birth.”
The term indicates social conditions
which no longer exist and represents
ideas which no longer have real life—we
have but to consider how the radical
Defoe published, in 1724, “The Great
Law of Subordination consider’d; or,
the Insolence and Unsufferable Behaviour
of Servants in England duly enquir’d
into,” to be convinced of our vast
advance in human sympathy—and a
revival of our American spirit toward
the word would be a wholesome course.
In the mouths of many who use it to
excess—those mainly at fault are innocently
imitative, unthinking, or pretentious
women—it sounds ungracious, if
not vulgar, and distinctly untrue to those
who made the country for us and desirable
for us to live in; and untrue also
to the best social feeling of to-day. It
is still for a genuine American rather
hard to imagine a person such as the
word “servant” connotes—a lackey, a
receiver of tips of any sort—with an
election ballot in hand and voting thinkingly,
knowingly, intelligently for the
guidance of our great government. It
would not have been so difficult for the
old δοῦλοι of Athens to vote upon the
Pnyx as for such a man to vote aright
for us. And not infrequently, in the ups
and downs of speculation and the mushroom
growth and life of fortunes among
us, the “servant,” to use the old biblical
phrase, is sometimes greater in moral,
intellectual, and social graces than his
“lord.” The term belongs to times,
and the temperamental condition of
times when traces of slavery were
common, and when employers believed,
and acted upon the faith, that they
hired not a person’s labor but the
person himself—or herself—who was
subject to a sort of ownership and
control.
Let us remand the word to the days
of Dean Swift and such conditions as the
tremendous satire of his “Directions to
Servants” exhibited, in which—except
perhaps in Swift’s great heart—there
was neither the humanity of our times,
nor the courtesy of our times, nor the
sure knowledge of our times—which
endeavor to create, and, in truth, are
gradually making trained and skilful
workers in every department, and demand
in return for service with perfectness
as its aim, independence of
the person, dignified treatment and
genuine respect from the employer.
All these things the women’s household
and cook-books will be, nay, are,
gradually teaching, and that which
Charles Carter, “lately cook to his
Grace the Duke of Argyle,” wrote in
1730 may still hold good: “’Twill be
very easy,” said Master Carter, “for
an ordinary Cook when he is well-instructed
in the most Elegant Parts of
his Profession to lower his Hand at any
time; and he that can excellently perform
in a Courtly and Grand Manner,
will never be at a Loss in any other.”
When this future knowledge and adjustment
come we shall be free from the tendencies
which Mistress Glasse, after her
outspoken manner, describes of her own
generation: “So much is the blind folly
of this age,” cries the good woman,
“that they would rather be imposed
upon by a French booby than give encouragement
to a good English cook.”
Economic changes such as we have
indicated must in measurable time ensue.
The science and the art of conducting
a house are now obtaining recognition
in our schools. Not long, and
the knowledge will be widespread. Its
very existence, and the possibility of its
diffusion, is a result of the nineteenth
century movement for the broadening of
women’s knowledge and the expansion
of their interests and independence—this
wedded with the humane conviction
that the wisest and fruitfullest
use of scientific deduction and skill is
in the bettering of human life. Behind
and giving potence to these impulses is
the fellowship, liberty, and equality of
human kind—the great idea of democracy.
Already we have gone back to the
wholesomeness of our English forebears’
estimate that the physician and
cook are inseparable. Further still, we
may ultimately retrace our ideas, and
from the point of view of economics
and sociology declare that with us, as
with the old Jews and Greeks, the priest
and the cook are one.